breach

BREACH

Revolution pending

S/S 2019 THE MASK SERIES

Setting the tone. Blurring the lines between man and woman, reworking mens workwear.

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BREACH X GEORGE

‘Maison De Choup’, the Fashion Brand with a Mental Health Cause at its Heart.

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YEAR TWENTY

With creativity in decline, what does the next generation have to say.

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SELF CARE?

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GFW ARTICLE

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FASHION’S MIND

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BREACH X CARYN FRANKLIN

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Staying safe as a creative.

Tackling the industry’s mental health problem.

The core of fashion; the designers.

Four questions with Caryn Franklin MBE

WHAT IS IT LIKE TO BE AN INFLUENCER?

Breach speaks to @Joannahstyle to see if the insta career is all it is made to be.

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REVOLUTION IS COMING

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WAR ON DRUGS

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Does rebellion work?

University’s underlying drug problem noone wants to speak about.

BREACH X THE FASHION STUDENT What is it like being a fashion design student

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YOUR VIEWS

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BREACH X THE TOKYO DIARIES

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YAMI KAWAII

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YAMI KAWAII X THE WEST Has the dark subculture reached the catwalk.

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IF YOU NEED HELP

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How do you think we can see a decline in mental health issues in fashion?

Details in a urban jungle

Meet Tokyo’s dark subculture

All the contacts you may need when times get tough.

Notes: This publication is for all my fellow creatives. It may have been made for a university project but I am truly passionate about the contents.

The first issue is based on what I believe to be one of the most talked about topics; mental health. Something close to my personal story. I have always been an anxious child but in 2008 I was diagnosed with Supraventricular tachycardia a condition with the heart that caused it to beat up to 280 bpm. Endless a&e trips left my mental health in the long term hindered. Anxiety is always something I have struggled with. The physical symptoms began on a bus, I felt lightheaded dizzy and it continued for days. I visited a&e as I thought I was dying, it turns out I was experiencing a panic attack. It wasn’t until I searched online that I knew it was anxiety. I didn’t actually receive professional help until a year ago because my anxiety condemned me to my flat, ironic right? It got me thinking, if I had known about mental health conditions and symptoms, I may have been receiving help years before and to be honest I was feeling sick and tired of people being critical to certain behaviours I had adopted to cope with the symptoms (always holding on to someone, never going anywhere alone, extremely quiet) It felt as though the real me was taken over by anxiety and it left me very deflated. Creative work became my purpose.

Luckily today people are more open towards their health, but there are still flaws. Breach is a step towards a revolution of honesty. Issue one takes step towards mental health in the creative industries.

On the CoverPhotographer Freya Howie Model- Simran Toor and Chloe Ford The cover represents a subculture in Tokyo called Yami Kawaii (sick cute). This particular group dress ill or hurt. It is a representation of the mental health stigma in Japan, something that drove the project. They wear masks, nooses, syringe necklaces, pills rings.

Print: ASAP print

publication photography Freya Howie Chloe Ford

Sheffield train station

set in helvetica, letter gothic

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The masked series: created in collaboration with John Lewis and Partners. Reworking mens workwear.

The safety pin is a subtle hint to the nature of Breach; rebellion.

The mask represents the urgency to speak but being unable to. You can not tell emotions of people all the time.

It is about accepting this and delving deeper into the outside appearance

So easy to hide our faces

SOPHIE WAITS STYLIST CHLOE FORD MODEL SIMRAN TOOR PHOTOGRAPHER

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REWORK WORKWEAR

Maison De Choup

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Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within, Who Cares Wins, Conquer From Within,

Breach and George David Hodgson 16.

Breach met up with George David Hodgson, who is a Fashionpreneur, Public Speaker and Mental Health Campaigner. Creating an award winning fashion label ‘Maison De Choup’ In 2014 out of a severe anxiety and OCD episode.

Why was it fashion that helped you through your dark place?

G – It wasn’t originally fashion.

It started as drawings. I used to write and draw my thoughts and feelings in a notebook when I was suffering. I was going to art college to do photography and then got to ill and had to leave unfortunately.

But I used to use these notebooks because I didn’t know how to talk about it, it was while I was at my most ill.

Then as I started to get better I went along to dad’s office with him, playing around with the designs on Photoshop.

I started to manipulate my drawings in colour. I thought maybe I could put this on a t-shirt to express what I was going through and show my family and others and talk about it that way. Then I realised I could use fashion generally as a vehicle to raise funds for charities. That’s when it started.

I brought myself a screen printing kit, I set it up in dads’ office and it went horribly wrong. But I knew I wanted to carry on with it so I found trained screen printers and went from there and it really grew from that.

As I’m sure you know fashion and mental health can be quite triggering, how have you ensured to not offend anyone and use it in a positive way?

Maison de choup is a brand based around mental health and sharing the message that the brand came from a dark place but I’ve ensured all the designs are subtle and non-

triggering. They all have a story behind them. If you didn’t know the brand previously then you won’t know the story unless you start up a conversation with someone wearing the tshirt.

amazing, they were completely incredible. I also like Vivienne Westwood because she is all about global change, climate change and using sustainable fabrics. I’d say those two I really look up to.

What do you hope to achieve with your collections in the future?

Do you have any tips for anyone who would want to start a fashion brand?

The aim has been to go back to the original concept of opening a conversation.

Becoming the go to fashion brand with a mental health cause at its heart. Being disruptive in the fashion world and coming in with a strong message, story and meaning.

I personally don’t really like the fashion world. I went to fashion week and I hated it.

It’s so fake. You watch these collections coming down the catwalk and you think why is this so popular? It’s just a ridiculous concept. So the aim is to disrupt that, come in with a meaning and raise awareness. We went to fashion week in September and I just brought a high vis jacket and put ‘mental health matters’ on the back of it, went along to the shows and it got photographed everywhere.

And that literally is the type of thing that can start a conversation, because it’s different.

G- It’s a hard question. You have to be so passionate. I do not fully delve as deep I’m not interested in the catwalk shows I did it purely for a cause. To campaign mental health.

Being in the fashion world is ruthless, its judgement and it’s a lot of ‘if you’re not strong enough to do this, get out’ mentality. I got my friend into an internship in communications at a fashion agency in London. She wanted to do something like that and now she’s decided she finds it very difficult and doesn’t like it.

If you want to go into fashion.

Find something you are incredibly passionate about and follow it because it’s very difficult.

Are there any fashion designers, influencers or anyone that you find inspiring?

G- I found this difficult but I do instantly think of alexander McQueen because he took his own life which is sad and I found his collections

B- As a fashion student myself, I am trying to set up an event. And you have to pay for everything yourself as a student, this is difficult.

It’s pretty much impossible to get money funded aswell on creative courses. And a lot of internships are unpaid.

So I truly understand how difficult it can be.

I would love to know your opinion on this. An article published stated that loads of schools around Britain are cutting creative subjects

from their curriculum and its basically all from the government funding. What are your thoughts on this?

G- I think it’s absolutely appalling, I can’t believe it really. I personally think the education system is broken anyway. I’m very creative, not academic at all.

I’d go to exam halls and become so panicky. It’s too quiet. The invigilators walking up and down like it’s a prison.

I didn’t like that atmosphere at all.

I’m more comfortable doing course work. Creative subjects are the foundation of a person.

And when you put a brick wall against people who are creative, you are potentially taking away their career and future. Everyone’s creative.

Schools just take it away and train you up to be a work force.

It’s terrible. I did a campaign with young minds recently called 64 million artists encouraging schools to be more creative with students and encourage creativity in schools and get them to be doing more. It’s the most important part of learning.

B- Back to you. I read your story and how you took mdma which was sort of the triggering point?

G- I’ve always had the anxiety, even primary school, I had support at home. You know, breathing exercises, counting to ten. I was ok until secondary school, I had a big group of friends. I left school and went to a festival in 2012 and I took mdma, I snorted it. Horrible. I didn’t really enjoy it. I had it at

G- Oh yes 100% With me it badly affected me mentally but then you have the flip side whereby people take drugs to help cope with issues like social anxiety.

Because they make you more sociable and buzzed, happy.

When people are on these drugs, they don’t stop talking!

So you can see why people with social anxiety would use this to cope with their symptoms.

a party a week later and still didn’t enjoy it, I thought I was dying. I thought it’s not for me I don’t need it anyway. I’m an extrovert. I didn’t need it.

About three weeks after that experience I started to have panic attacks on a daily basis and every time I had a panic attack I thought I was on the mdma because they mimicked the symptoms. Then I started washing my hands. 50-100 times a day. Everything I touched I thought it had a drug trace on it. And then the panic attack came and you know? It became exhausting. I started to get intrusive thoughts.

B- it’s interesting because you rarely hear about this effect. My friend Chloe and I went to an event and she took it and she had a huge panic attack. Had to go home. Ended up having counselling, she would hallucinate. Its only just started to get better for her.

So I’m so glad you have opened up the conversation.

A lot of people use drugs as a coping mechanism

B- the culture for drugs is huge. I’m a student and 9/10 people are taking drugs. A lot of people I have grown close to have left uni, been in scary relationships with drug dealers. So you can imagine that in a tough industry like fashion people may turn to drugs to cope.

No one wants to seem like a failure in the industry.

What coping mechanisms do you have when you feel stressed and under pressure?

G- I had about three years of therapy, specifically hypnotherapy. And then I had cbt therapy. Cognitive behavioural therapy. I was being taught coping mechanisms that helped break down the thoughts in my head. It’s about breaking down thoughts and becoming aware of them rationally. So ok I’ve got a headache? It’s hot out, I haven’t had enough water, it’s probably not a brain tumour.

Then breathing exercises.

If I’m having a bad day, struggling with the brand now I step back and have a day off. I read, go for walks, family time, chill with my sister because I know the next day

I will feel much better for it.

Recognise when you feel bad and work from there.

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“I personally don’t really like the fashion world.

I went to fashion week and I hated it.”

EDUCATION EDUCATION 24.

EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION 24.

EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION EDUCATION

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THE KILLED THE

CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY CREATIVITY

STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR STAR

IT’S been 18 years since Dazed released the 2001 issue on rebellion. It spoke of movements and lack of change. It looked at opinions from the younger generation, their view on the world and what they think the future holds.

So what has changed since then? Social trends are ever evolving. Veganism is at its highest, feminism continues to equalise the world and speaking of genders; the line between male and female is blurring. And the UK has finally stated a climate emergency following ‘extinction rebellion’ protests which were all inspired by 16-year-old Greta Thunberg (climate activist). It is something that would have been unheard of 10 years ago - the power of a child’s voice.

But whilst this is good, why do children today not have the option of a broad curriculum in school? It’s their future after all.

Today Breach will be looking into education. Schools are cutting creative subjects, some by 40%, they have done this by funding cuts, lesson time and cutting staff. These subjects include art, dance, textiles, music and drama.

The drops are said to be down to Ebacc (the English baccalaureate). These are gcse subjects which consist of the following: English language and literature, maths and the sciences. According to The Guardian - by 2025 ministers are expecting to see 90 per cent of students taking the ebacc as it “keeps young people's options open”.

School Minister Nick Gibb has said “if you want to take those subjects you are entitled to take them.” Yet 100% of responses to an anonymous survey believe academic subjects are pushed in schools. All which are being pushed on impressionable young students. The school curriculum is based on a 19th century society – the industrial revolution. It does not equip children with the demands of society today. The most watched TED talk of all time ‘do schools kill creativity’, spoken by Sir Ken Robinson highlights the fact of the outdated education curriculum “Nobody has a clue…what the world will look like in five years time. And yet we’re meant to be educating them for it.” The talk indicated the need for a well-balanced curriculum.

Robinson continued to say “if you are not prepared to be wrong, you will never come

up with anything original”.

Robinson is one of many against ebacc. “it is a political issue, it is corrupt” said former university lecturer Ben Thapa who has previously worked with disadvantaged children teaching creative subjects to aid wellbeing and independence. Thapa also said “they are so beneficial because they teach holistically. Children learn better by doing” There is psychology about the importance behind it. A study

by Ofsted found that creativity in lives improves problem solving and imagination.

The report went on to say “Children see before they speak, make marks before they write, build before they walk”.

Creativity can also help with wellbeing, for all ages.

Charities like The Art House who host wellbeing art and pottery classes have had life changing results with one attendant saying “without [the art house] I wouldn’t be here” All attendees at a Breach event hosted there believe creative subjects should be pushed in the curriculum. Schools need more responsibility when providing for a child’s future.

Both in relation to their curriculum but more for the developent of a child not just what jobs they may get. As stated by a spokesperson of the Department Of Education “All schools must provide their pupils with a broad and balanced curriculum”.

WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION WE DONT NEED NO EDUCATION

t Illustrations: Chloe Ford Images: Dazed 2001 Next page Images: Chloe Ford

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what is modern day rebellion? fighting against rights. The new generation shapes the future

The new age. fighting for childrens education and rights in working in a creative field

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T h e n e x t g e n e r a t i o n

Arthur, 6

Sophia, 6

I love: Pokemon I hate: Carrots fave subject: drawing When I grow up I want to be a: firefigher If I was in charge I would: play pokemon all day In ten years time: there will be more water

I love: LOL dolls and drawing I hate: foxes fave subject: Numbers When I grow up I want to be a: Fashion designer If I was in charge I would: go soft play everyday In ten years time: the world will be warmer

Dollie, 5

Millie, 15

I love: mummys makeup I hate: computers fave subject: spelling When I grow up I want to be a: dancer If I was in charge I would: let everyone have fun In ten years time: there will be robots

I love: food, sleeping and makeup I hate: Mayonaise When I grow up I want to be a: journalist If I was in charge I would: stop religion In ten years time: The world will be full of peace and prosperity

Noa, 6

Martha, 7

I love: singing I hate: brown sauce fave subject: writing When I grow up I want to be a: teacher If I was in charge I would: stop poorly animals In ten years time: more phones

I love: mcdonalds I hate: loud bikes fave subject: art&design When I grow up I want to be a: singer If I was in charge I would: go school less In ten years time: everything will be plastic

Jessica, 6

Seerat, 5

I love: Drawing I hate: brushing my hair fave subject: history When I grow up I want to be a: like holly (Willoughby) If I was in charge I would: stop arguments In ten years time: there will be less fish

I love: mum and dad I hate: The clothes basket fave subject: painting and colouring When I grow up I want to be a: Supergirl and nurse to help people If I was in charge I would: teach the class In ten years time: I think it will be better

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FREYA HOWIE CHLOE FORD

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WILL 2020 BE A BLANK SLATE?

Remember the 80’s high glamour – Padded shoulders, big hair, toned bodies, neon accessories. The Big Five (models) dominated the generation; lean, tall and slim.

The dominant market was getting older, people were living longer and there was a western economic boom.

We then saw the drastic change to the laidback 90’s – skinny frames, grunge, baggy fits and minimal colour. Kate Moss became the biggest icon of this generation with her waifish frame. Technology began to emerge and advance with the world wide web.

There was economic growth and higher standard of living.

Fuelled by inexpensive fossil fuels.

Back too big. The spotlight has been on the Kardashians this decade. Changing the ideal body type – big bums, big hips, big lips. The 2010’s have been the decade of social media. 95 million posts are made a day by Instagram and influencers are the new celebrities. A report by tigermobiles found that an average of two hours and 28 minutes spent are spent on a smartphone per day by users.

The UK stated a climate emergency, the overuse of plastic and fossil fuels have polluted the earth. Is bigger always better?

Will the 2020’s strip back and go to basics?

The 2020’s will be “hottest decade ever as global warming continues” according to the telegraph. Preparing for a sustainable future will mean a huge cut back on the stuff we buy and use. The

Will the 2020’s strip back and go to basics?

future may hold a system of only buying things we need and cutting back on things we don’t. Trends like veganism and healthy living are on the rise. The rise of self-care and spirituality may boom to help us cope with changes. A report by the telegraph on the 2020’s believes the “Evidence that mobile phones endanger health will increase” along with this reports on the negative impact of social media have increased. A report my Mintel found that mental health is becoming more prevalent amongst teens, social media being the blame. It may mean we will see a decrease in social media usage as platforms like Instagram have had to make changes, a report

by ID magazine found that Instagram may be getting rid of ‘likes’ a variable that has been a money source for influencers around the world due to the negative effects the platform has received. Preparing for an uncertain future may mean we go back to holistic self-care methods. Unique style platform predicted a trend called ‘now age’ for 2019 which

included mystical methods that are in reaction to a world in transition. The trend report went on to say “the importance of self care and [to find] deeper meaning is front of mind as good mental health becomes as important as psychical fitness” but now with the urgency of the climate, escapism will be needed more than ever.

Modern mysticism offers alternative self-care solutions.

Staying safe as a creative can be difficult. So how can you incorporate modern selfcare in the uncertain 2020’s?

Despite the rise in technology, your creativity will stay.

The trend report by Unique Style Platform believes technology and artists will blend “the physical & digital to create magical, immersive experiences”. So your creativity can be used as a self-care/escapism method Books like Material Girl, Mystical world by Ruby Warrington can help your knowledge on using daily spiritual insights and experiencing things on a more meaningful level.

Warrington speaks on crystal healing, meditation and daily mindfulness. Astrology is becoming a popular way to escape and delve deeper into yourself and the people around you. You can easily make your own birthchart online. But it’s more difficult than it seems. That’s why app ‘co star’ is here to help.

A report by business insider found that the app had been downloaded over 3 million times. Co star provides you

with real time philosophy.

Having a hobby on the side can help individuals with mental illness. Matt Haig, author of ‘reasons to stay alive’ in an interview with Fearne Cotton on her podcast ‘The Happy Place’ had said his interest/hobby in Greek Philosophy helped him out of a dark place.

Speaking of Fearne Cotton, her podcast ‘my happy place’ is a selection of interviews/ chats with inspiring people.

She has interviewed the likes

of Russell Brand, Davina McCall and many others.

Crystal healing has grown in mass popularity. Adopted by the likes of Cara Delevigne, Adele and the Kardashians.

They are part of ancient ritual healing. Each crystal brings a different benefit. Clear Quartz crystal is a good starting point.

Otherwise known as the ‘all round healer’.

Despite the uncertain future.

You are not alone.

“Uncertainty is the only certainty there is, and knowing how to live with insecurity is the only security.” ~John Allen Paulos

“People often think about fashion as if it’s just about the surface of things. But there’s often a very dark side to the life of a designer. The reason clothes are potent is because of what they are covering up.”

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GFF CONTRIBUTOR CHLOE FORD SPEAKS TO CARYN FRANKLIN MBE AND GEORGE HODGSON, FOUNDER OF BRAND MAISON DE CHOUP, TO DISCUSS IF FASHION IS BAD FOR OUR MENTAL HEALTH — OR IF IT ATTRACTS THOSE WHO ARE VULNERABLE — AND WHAT THE INDUSTRY IS DOING TO FIX THE DEEPLY ROOTED ISSUE.

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GFF contributor Chloe Ford speaks to Caryn Franklin MBE and George Hodgson, founder of brand Maison de Choup, to discuss if fashion is bad for our mental health — or if it attracts those who are vulnerable — and what the industry is doing to fix the deeply rooted issue.

In an industry that fosters and martyrs the tortured creative, it’s no surprise that the fashion business is inextricably tied to mental health. The tortured artist trope has stretched back for centuries — Plato believed that “good poets are not in their right mind when they make their beautiful songs” — so it’s no surprise we have grown up thinking that creatives are likely to suffer. A study by The Ulster University found that creatives are three times more likely to experience mental illness than the general population — most commonly diagnosed with anxiety and depression.

The pace and the scale of the fashion industry has taken its toll on a huge number of creatives. From anonymous sufferers to high profile figures like Alexander McQueen, whose suicide came shortly after that of his mentor Isabella Blow. Marc Jacobs, John Galliano and Yves Saint Laurent have all suffered publicly with mental health issues and substance abuse, while recently Kate Spade committed suicide in 2018. It sets up a debate on whether fashion is bad for our mental health or if it attracts those who are vulnerable.

“Those who work in fashion are sensitive,” says Caryn

Franklin, diversity professor at Kingston University and renowned fashion commentator. “We depend upon our emotions for our creativity. On top of this, fashion environments that create toxic workplaces undermine their workers’ efforts.” The instability of the industry compounds this pressure, she explains. “When leaders are fearful for their own positions, they pass the stress down to those less powerful.”

So what can be done to fight this? George Hodgson, the designer behind award winning brand Maison De Choup, is running a fashion label with mental health cause at its core. Maison De Choup sells t-shirts, sweatshirts and badges that donate 25% of profits to the youth mental health charity, YoungMinds.

Whilst suffering through severe anxiety and OCD, George would write and draw to express how he was feeling.

Soon after, he began printing on t-shirts and before long, Maison de Choup was born.

George describes Maison De Choup as “Being disruptive in the fashion world and coming in with a strong message, story and meaning”. George also expressed the importance of creating non triggering designs “each piece has a meaning and a story, you’re wearing a change… I have been to the shows and I don't get it, it didn't mean anything”.

Like George, brands are slowly starting to tackle mental health. High street brand Monki collaborated with Mental Health Europe to create ‘All

the Feels’, a line that raises awareness of the positive and negative effects of social media on our mental health.

New Age clothing brand MadHappy have centered their brand DNA on optimism to create uplifting clothing.

They’ve also created a blog “with the goal of creating conversation around mental health.”

Despite these initiatives, it is still difficult to distinguish brands that meaningfully engaging with mental health issues from those who are jumping on the bandwagon for the good PR. What is obvious is that to authentically engage and address the issue, brands need to focus equally on the public facing and behind the scenes. “Every brand must have a ‘Wellness Policy,’ that is communicated at interview stage and honored within in the workplace and visibly displayed,” explains Franklin.

“Issues that impact mental health should be prioritized in meetings, just as much as production or design issues and there should be a trained team in HR to deal with escalation and disciplinary protocol.”

There is evidence to suggest that this would help. In 2017 Mind charity introduced a workplace wellbeing index.

15,000 employees took part. The results showed a positive environment can have a positive impact on employee's wellbeing as well as productivity levels.

Franklin added that, “studies show that our productivity is at its highest when we are in a supportive environment for

creativity and the production of ideas”. By this logic, fixing fashions mental health issues will not just help our personal wellbeing, but also our creative output. However, change won’t come overnight because “the boundaries are more blurred in fashion,” says Franklin.

“The person who lands the job is constantly having to prove they deserve to be there — this culture must change.”

The industry has a long road ahead to rethink the toxic workplace culture that creates a breeding ground for mental health issue. We only have to look at manufacturing in third world countries to see how garment workers are treated, and the time, legislation and effort it is taking to address this. “It has been hard to help everybody in the system to recognize the multiple problematic outcomes of exploiting garment workers and creatives,” says Franklin.

“We are left in a position where we must push the social science that connects good mental health and safety with higher productivity levels to prove the obvious advantages of looking after the workforce to industry leaders.” by continuing the conversation and destigmatizing mental health, the intention is to empower employees to “call out bad practice and can ask for better on behalf of ourselves and others”.

It is important to know that as a creative you are not alone, and despite the stress that comes with working in creative industries, creativity itself can in fact aid our mental

health. A study taken in 2010 by Heather L. Stuckey and Jeremy Nobel on the connection between art and healing found that creative work “helps people express experiences that are too difficult to put into words.” along with “Improved focus on positive life experiences, selfworth, and social identity”.

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“We are left in a position where we must push the social science that connects good mental health and safety with higher productivity levels to prove the obvious advantages of looking after the workforce to industry leaders.�

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“I don’t understand this marathon of fashion…you start to understand why some designers do strange things… you have to find a way of dealing with it all.”

The fashion industry and mental health isn’t news. But is it as bad as its made out? Fashion isn’t the only industry that has mental health issues in the work place. 91,000 NHS staff have taken at least a month off work due to stress since 2014 and still 95% of employees who call in sick with stress give a different reason. We know there needs to be change. But it isn’t just unique the fashion industry. It’s creatives, it’s everyone. Other work sectors have noticed this and implemented ways in which they can see a decline in stress in the work place. It has worked. Still though the link between creativity and mental health is a huge debate over whether it’s just genetics, situational, developmental etc. It draws focus in the environment creatives are in. The fashion world is tough to get into, maintain and balance, at all levels. The tragic story of Isabella Blow’s suicide along with Alexander McQueen, L’Wren Scott and Kate Spade are just a few of the creatives that have lost to their mental health, it rings truth with other creatives. John Galliano who himself has been through mental health issues has said he “understands that pain” and the “loneliness”. The loneliness that shouldn’t be evident in a unison industry.

Although the stigma of mental health is changing, it still hangs in the air and even more so in fashion. The intense stress put on creatives is seen as normal, you only have to watch Devil wears Prada to find out. And if you can’t handle it? You’re not meant for it apparently. Karl Lagerfeld saying “If you are not a good bullfighter, don’t enter the arena. Fashion is a sport now: You have to run”. Its relieving knowing not everybody is affected yet the normalization is purely a stereotype that dosen’t need to be given into. Yet even Karl knows it’s wrong in response to Giulia Mensitieri’s book, Karl said “Fashion is a total injustice. It’s like that.

And that’s it”. Speaking to Benjamin Thapa who has previously worked in fashion has said “it’s just not the case, when you meet people who have worked in the industry for years and years they’re calm and collected. It’s a mindset that has been drilled into young creatives brains”. The industry is set to change though take Victor and Rolf who left ready to wear to focus on couture and Pyer Moss, using fashion to bring awareness of important matters.

Sustainable fashion is on the rise and along with that we should be pushing for a sustainable mind. And It’s true, the industry is stressful. But get rid of the normalization and use fashion to bring people together, not break an individual apart.

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4 questions with

CARYN FRANKLIN

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Why do you think there’s a strong connection between fashion and mental health issues?

Those of us who work in fashion are sensitive. We depend upon our emotions for our creativity but fashion has become a very time-poor, competitive environment.

Our leaders are fearful for their own positions and pass the stress down to those less powerful. This means potential pressures are magnified as they gather momentum and people become more vulnerable the less power they have.

Why is it important that the fashion industry addresses mental health?

Studies show that our productivity is at its highest when we are in a supportive environment for creativity and the production of ideas. Fashion environments that create toxic workplaces undermine their workers’ efforts. It is damaging for individual workers to experience long hours and perpetual stress and this can impact on worker morale generally but most importantly upon the long term mental health and confidence of the person affected

How can brands meaningfully and authentically engage with mental health issues?

Every brand must have a ‘Wellness Policy,’ that is communicated at interview stage and honoured within in the workplace and visibly displayed. Guidelines for employees to follow are vital. Talking about issues that impact mental health should be prioritised in meetings along with production or design issues and there should be a trained team in HR to deal with escalation and disciplinary protocol.

This would cover anything from bullying to sexual harassment or racism for example.

Do you think the fashion industry has more of a stigma towards mental health than other work sectors?

No I don’t think it is the stigma that is an issue, rather that the culture of fashion (combined with capitalism that puts profit first and people or the planet way down the list) creates unreasonable deadlines, demands for loyalty and expectation that workers give it their all. The boundaries are more blurred in fashion and because desirable jobs are often over-subscribed, the person who lands the job is constantly having to prove they deserve it. This must change.

Professor Caryn Franklin M.B.E.

JoannahStyle

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Age: 19 Occupation: Blogger and store manager Gender:Male I love: singing I hate: closed minded people.

If I was in charge I would: everyone would have equal pay In ten years time‌ technology will be on a vast scale.

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54. Joannahstyle

INTERVIEW TEXT CHLOE FORD

Breach met up with Josef Hussain aka Joannah Style. An Instagram account he shares with his partner, Hannah.

We discover the uncertainty of the influencer word, what it’s like and if It’s as glamourous as it seems.

Can you tell our readers about yourself and your blog?

I’m Josef Hussain, I’m 19 years old from Sheffield, UK. I work full time in retail management, but outside of work I run an Instagram blog with my other half , Hannah , called @joannahstyle. We share our outfits and looks daily to our followers, and aim to provide inspiration for others. We show diverse looks, how to style men’s and women’s clothing and share them, and how to style looks together. We work with many brands, (JD, MNML, BoohooMAN , Public desire) to name a few, and collaborate to create content in product they gift us.

What inspired you to start your blog?

I’d probably say my main inspiration was social media.

I’ve spent years scrolling through my feeds looking at so called ‘influencers’ (Gallucks , Lissy Roddy e.g) and fashion pages such as NCLgallery , Slyde official , and wishing that was my Job. It seemed near enough impossible to ever do it, and some days it still does, however about a year ago I just thought f*ck it, you’ve got to start somewhere, and so we did.

What do you find the most frustrating aspect of blogging?

I think the most frustrating thing is when you spend

so much time and effort producing content which you believe is amazing, and you don’t get the reaction you believe it deserves. Instagram is forever changing and the algorithm is challenging, some days not even half of our followers will see our post, and it can be frustrating.

Not being credited by a bigger influencer who has been influenced by you is so frustrating to see them get so much more praise for an idea we created. Me and Hannah have seen it so much.

Who was your first style icon?

I wasn’t really overly interested about fashion until my early teens. I’d probably say my first real style icons were people such as Kanye West, ASAP Rocky , Prince. I also love music so I’d love to see stage outfits these sort of artist would wear.

How do you deal with criticism (if any) on your personal style?

Criticism doesn’t bother me too much. I was always the kid in school who dressed differently and when I was younger it used to bother me, but the older I’ve got the more confident in myself I’ve become, if somebody doesn’t like my outfit that’s fine, because I do and that’s all that really matters, I’m not going to wear something that’s not myself, just to ‘fit in’ and I probably don’t like theirs either hahah.

Describe your style?

I’d find it hard to describe my style. I think my style is forever changing and I’m not someone who sticks to one theme or colour pallet, I like to mix it up. One day I’ll be feeling a neural and beige look, but that won’t stop me from going full out Neon the day after. I’m a Gemini, so it’s probably my different personalities coming out to play ahah. One thing I know for sure is, I like my clothes oversized! I feel uncomfortable and not myself in tight Tshirts or skinny jeans.

What would you say that is the greatest satisfaction of being a fashion blogger?

(Invitations to fashion events, interaction with people, gifts, etc.)

If you’re not happy with something change it. it’s not hard to lock your screen, and also there is a block button for a reason, if somebody is getting you down online, use it.

Would you ever consider expanding your blog (e.g youtube, written website)?

I would say the thought of inspiring others. The best days for me are when I’ll receive a message from someone saying that they love my style, or my style has inspired them to try something different, that’s the bigger satisfaction.

Obviously other things such as Gifts from brands and events are great, but they’re just a bonus to a passion I already had.

There has been strong evidence to suggest social media can negatively impact our mental health, what are your thoughts on this?

I think if you can use social media properly and know your limits you’re fine. There’s many days when it gets me down, my posts aren’t doing great, I’ve lost followers etc , but you’ve got to remember there is more to life than online following. Go outside, get some fresh air, see a friend, and re visit it tomorrow.

Possibly in the future but for now I want to focus on building my following and perfecting my content before we do.

What advice would you give to someone who wants to find their personal style?

Try different things. Shop somewhere new. Take inspiration from people you admire but make it your own.

Keep changing it up until you try something on and feel amazing, and when you get

that feeling go from there , find what it is that gave you that feeling and implement it in your style daily.

Where would you like to be in blogging five years from now?

I’d like to be doing my blog full time. It’s hard to balance working technically two jobs, especially one with hours and shifts that forever change, it’s hard to be in a routine. I’d like to be working with more brands that I love, and I’d also like my own brand eventually.

Have you always wanted to work in fashion?

Funnily enough, no. From being young I have always wanted to be a singer. It’s what I love and what I studied at college etc. I’d still love to do that now and it is still my dream, however I feel as though there’s no easy route to get there and it’s all so uncertain. Whereas fashion I feel as though I can plan my next steps and have an idea of what I’m doing and where I’m going next. Hopefully one day I can combine the two. I feel my absolute best when I am performing.

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70% of Teens Trust Influencers More than Traditional Celebrities 86% of Women Use Social Media for Purchasing Advice 49% of Consumers Depend on Influencer Recommendations 6 in 10 Teens Follow Advice From Influencers Over Celebrities Influencer Marketing Campaigns Earn $6.50 for Every Dollar Spent Influencer Marketing Is the Fastest-Growing Online Customer-Acquisition Method 57% of Fashion and Beauty Companies Engage in Influencer Marketing Major Brands Plan to Increase Spend on Influencer Marketing The Influencer Marketing Industry is Expected to Hit $10bn by 2020 74% of People Trust Social Networks to Guide Purchasing Decisions Influencer Marketing has Surpassed Print Marketing 40% of Customers Use Ad-Blocking Technology 40% of Twitter Users Made a Purchase Based on a Tweet 67% of Marketers Promote Content With the Help of Influencers Facebook Is the Most Influential Social Media Network While Facebook is still the alpha dog, YouTube is right behind with 18% marketing influence.

JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE JOANNAHSTYLE

WHAT DOES REBELLION MEAN TO YOU?

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(The guardian, dazed)

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“an act of armed resistance to an established government or leader.”

Rebellion today Rebellion today takes shape in many forms. Anything breaking the law could be classed.

Protests challenge the law yet riots break the law. How much time should be put in for rebelling over saving the planet, making a difference, fighting the power? It’s hard to determine what we should be fighting for. But we know it’s about doing something.

Rebellion is over worked; we’ve done it all. Drinking, drugs, crime. Major movements are hit and miss.

The punks of the 70’s did It all so well. The civil rights and anti war movements that youths began in the 50’s all the way until the early 70’s.

All authority was questioned.

They fought against passivity toward racial and economic injustices and sexism.

Today still, punk is still the sound of youth rebellion, it changed fashion and music. It was much more than appearance. But did it change society today? It was shocking at the time yet now, anything goes. By the 90’s punk was a commodity and became a fashion trend. As acknowledged by Dazed in their 2001 issue on rebellion being known more as a “popular tourist resort than a political hotbed”. The article highlights that the most aspiring young radical can be is real. Everything makes a difference. Punks made cultural changes and as a result we have a lot more freedom today.

Recent movements and protests have been hugely successful, social media allows messages to be spread quicker. Mental health awareness is ever improving.

The ‘boys do cry’ campaign, with the help of social media spread unbelievably quick. With influencers and celebrities taking part to.

Rebelling against conformity and society norms is the most rebellious thing we can do. It shapes generations in the future. The huge climate change protest that took place in the streets of London shut off five bridges and saw 80 arrests. It Seems somehow, refreshing. Rebelling for the good of the planet. In January 2017 women marched in over 650 communities during march of our lives and 750 locations for gun control. In 1969 over 2 million people took part in anti-war activities and a million protesting against George Bush’s choice to war in Iraq.

A report by the Guardian believes we are not protesting/ rebelling enough, “We are seeing a level of organizing with little precedent – but it’s time for stronger forms of

demonstration, such as sit-ins and street blockades”. There is evidence to suggest protests do work, a study by Harvard University found that “protests do not work because big crowds send a signal to policymakers—rather, it’s because protests get people politically activated.”

The study suggests the act of rebellion is effective. Taking back control and working for a positive future sometimes needs the push of protests and breaking the law.

The results are effective. Using platforms like social media can spread the beginnings of a protest without much political weight behind them.

INTERVIEW TEXT CHLOE FORD SOURCE SURVEY MONKEY

The underlying problem with students and drugs that no university wants to speak about

DRUGS R G 62.

Drugs drugs drugs and more drugs. The worlds war on drug’s finds its way in every country, town, office, school, you name it. There has been a 17% increase in alcohol related hospital admissions and 200 deaths linked to Counterfit Xanax since 2015.

Yet are we just going to ignore the drug use in universities?

Some are even linking the rise in drug use in young people to the rise in knife crime. Piers Morgan believes this is the case.

Breach took a survey to find out just how bad it is and the results suggest a big change in drug culture.

Out of all students who responded, all have taken illegal drugs. 50% started taking illegal drugs at university. 30% once a week and 30% more than once a week.

Speaking to former student who wanted to remain anonymous: “I was bored, I was not ready for university and what started as a ‘night out’ habit became almost every day” Why is it so normal?

Asking students what may have influenced their drug use, music recieved the highest vote. Shortly behind fell social pressures and tv.

The rise of artists talking about their drug use has risen. A group in particular; soundcloud rappers. xxxtentaction, juicewrld, Trippie Redd, Lil Uzi Vert, A boogie wit da hoodie,

Lil pump, Kodak Black are just some of the artists that talk about drug use in their music. It is a music trend that has soared. A database called TextBob found that this popular genre may also be its most depressed. A marketing agency called Take5 found that 24/100 top singles referenced mental health.

This group infiltrate pop culture. Grunge inspired looks, face tattoos, head to toe designer. It’s otherwise known as sad rap. Besides the looks, It could be said to be inspiring to the younger generation but also its a change in culture.

The talk around mental health has shifted, the stigma slowly but surely changing. Artists talking about mental health and drug use, finally bringing it to the surface. The expression through creative realms like art and music is real. It’s deep.

The underground culture is not set to change as of yet.

recurring theme throughout.

It may be seemed insensitive to prescription drug use or just playing with provocation.

Raf Simons ‘youth in motion’.

Selling well based on youth obsession with drugs and drug culture but the show was said to show our conflicted relationship with narcotics. Raf however, has specified that some proceeds went to drug recovery services. Drugs are still a taboo subject. The rise in musicians and designers expressing drug use and mental health may open a nuanced dialogue The shift in our minds and expression is a good change.

It’s reached mainstream artists. Kanye West open about his bipolar and Jay Z talk on needing therapy.

The trend, throughout time has already made appearances in fashion. Despite no respondents believing fashion has influenced their drug use.

The catwalk is no stranger to pharmaceutical references - 90’s heroin chick; the rebellion of the 80’s glamour was characterized by skinny frames, dark hollow eyes and muted fits. The controversy of this was lost and replaced with animated obvious versions.

Moschino capsule collection saw huge prescription pill bags and garments which was a

“ What is the drug of this generation?”

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Breach met up with fashion student at the university of Manchester.

On her verdict of mental health in the fashion world. Breach aims to uncover the lifes of the next fashion generation.

What would you say influenced you to choose fashion design?

I wanted a course that was pure design. But one that I can still have industry links to.

Have you always been creative or was there something that inspired/pushed you to work in that realm?

I’ve actually always been academic. I went to a grammar school and did alevels. I was pushed to do an academic subject but this was not something I enjoyed or found challenging. It was just something I was naturally gifted at. I did an art foundation prior to university and this gave me a year to focus on my creative side and it find what I wanted to develop further. I think everyone should have a year out before university to

decide if it’s really for them and if that’s what they want to do, not something that’s just expected of them.

“I was p u s h e d to do an academic subject” Do you believe fashion has a mental health issue?

No, I think it is challenging and often stressful but I think the individual needs to have coping mechanisms in place to handle it.

Do you know how to handle stress

safely on your course?

Yeah we often get sent emails with the mental health options and drop in meditation workshops.

How do you find relief/coping mechanisms from your course?

It’s incredibly hard to have a work life balance but I try to keep in touch with my friends

and see them once a week just to keep me grounded and try to stay aware of what everyone else is dealing with

A drug that is common for students to take to help them work quicker is available to buy on the internet.

Are you aware of this drug?

a lot of weed in first year but it zapped my motivation and I would have brain fog the next day and the course is one where you can’t ever really have an off day. I have thought about the idea of taking nootropics but taking something consistently to long term effect brain chemistry kind of freaks me out. Also looked at modafinil but always abit worried about unlicensed drugs and what’s actually in them.

Yeah I’m assuming you mean nootropics rather than illicit.

Do you have any mental health problems?

Do you have any mental health problems?

I get anxiety attacks but that is trigger related and not really influenced by my studies

I get anxiety attacks but that is trigger related and not really influenced by my studies

Finally, what do you think should be done to decrease mental health problems in the fashion industry?

Do you take any drugs yourself to handle work?

No I don’t. I used to smoke

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“More awareness. Always.”

“ M o r e awareness a l w a y s ”

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Breach and the Tokyo diaries

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IMAGES TEXT CHLOE FORD

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Meets Tokyo’s dark subculture

All cultures have their shadows.

Yami Kawaii was a subculture waiting to happen. It takes a dark turn on an otherwise cute and fluffy exterior. It’s an anti kawaii trend that speaks something deeper than it looks. It can be seen as a punk, rebellion movement on the mental health stigma in Japan. Something that has drove Breach from the beginning.

The trend has not just come out of thin air. The suicide rate in Japan is three time higher than the rate in United Kingdom. A report by Asian review found that Japan lost six times more people to suicide than to traffic accidents in 2017. Despite the rates dropping, the comparison is still a huge problem in Japans society. Suicide is still the leading cause of death for women age 15–34 in Japan.

Historically Japan has always been a male dominated society with strong social expectations.

The number in children taking their life has reached a 30 year high, the reasons aren’t yet determined but a report by the week has found it to be social and family pressures.

Japans government have taken measures to reduce the rates in

elder community’s but not yet in the youth. This is where yami kawaii comes into play. ‘kawaii’ means cute and ‘yami’ means sick. Mix the two together and you get cute fashion with pastel pinks and frilly details with a mix of dark accesories which include: plasters, syringes, eye patches, and rings that look like pills. Clothing includes several motifs of words like ‘I want to die’.

Yami Kawaii for some in just an aesthetic choice. Makeup artist June Cress has credited the subculture this this reason alone.

Cress has created makeup looks that are covered in plasters, fake blood and the use of red shadow

to make the individual appear ill. Cress has said however, “there are people who choose to express themselves this way because of mental health or other illnesses; it’s a creative outlet for them.”

Menhera Chan is the character who is the epitome of this trend designed by artist Bisuko who designed this character whilst going through a rough time with his grandparents, he did it as an ‘escape from reality’. Menhera Chan has the cute aspect with the dark undertones like slit wrists and hanging rope, the character is seen in several settings which ring mental illness throughout. To somemental health intertwined with fashion is controversial, Liz Kennedy believes “suicide isn’t fashion.

Bisuko has a different approach.

He wants to use yami kawaii to “change the negative image of mental health issues” and his fans have praised Bisuko for ‘saving them’.

Could using dark twists in fashion today help with mental health problems that are relevant in fashion today or does it just glorify mental illness?

A documentary by refinery29 explored this subculture. Bisuko who made character mehera chan describes yami kawaii as a “demand for things people are avoiding”. Hanayo; former model has always been open about her depression to her followers.

She uses yami kawaii style as it makes her feel ‘happy’, she no longer has to hide away. Not everyone agrees yami kawaii would help the stigma, “Unless you’re owning that phrase as an empowerment, not many people would want to say that they’re yami-kawaii. It is still associated with a community of people experiencing mental health issues,” said Janette, speaker of the subculture. This could just be seen as Japans problem not yami kawaii. Breach visited Tokyo and the famous Takeshita Dori street in Harajuku to see the subculture for itself.

It was certainly an underground culture but occasionally shops would sell tops and jumpers that screamed yami kawaii, Menhera Chan also made an appearance with her bandages and dark motifs. Seeing several individuals dressing this way suggests the subculture is very much still alive and until Japan has better mental health facilities available for the youth, the subculture will stay.

IMAGES TEXT CHLOE FORD

YAMI KAWAII IS A TREND THAT IS LESS OBVIOUS IN THE WEST. DESPITE THE HYPE IN JAPAN, KAWAII TREND IS DYING. STREET STYLES TODAY ARE COOL, COLLECTIVE WITH HINTS OF KAWAII. WE STILL SEE THE BRIGHT COLOURS, ANIME CHARACTERS BUT NOT SO MUCH ON THE STREETS.

Tokyo style has influenced fashion all over the world, but will yami kawaii? Parts of the subculture have made their way. Gareth Pugh S/S 19 saw one model Yazelle covered in plasters and several other models with masks covering their mouths the show was inspired by an “outsider society”. Jenny Fang A/W 18 who is known for incorporating the kawaii trend, “My designs are 50 percent kawaii, 50 percent raw and with a dark reality,”. A model wore a garment that had the childlike exterior yet in light pink paint said ‘ugly life beautiful face’.

Another model held a toy that appeared to cry and some walked with accessorized chopped off limbs. Jenny Fang commented “My point of view is that yami-kawaii is an expression of an aesthetic.

People dress that way [for] attention.”

Junya Watanabe Fall 2019 also presented inklings of the dark subculture with the ‘cute’ . Anime makeup, eye patches, models carried teddy bears with gashes in the head, playing dark twists on the otherwise ‘cutesy’ culture.

Watanabe actually called his collection ‘kawaii’. In recent times however, fashion has been criticized for making mental illness a trend. High street store Urban Outfitters have a history of referencing mental illness, releasing a top that had the word Depression printed all over it and another

top that had the words ‘eat less’. Urban Outfitters have since apologized but it hasn’t been the last time brands have referenced mental illness.

Popular online retailer Boohoo was criticized by charities for clothes referencing OCD disorder. Missguided also went under fire for sign that read ‘I am a psychotic mess but atleast my eyebrows look good’, Missguided responded to complaints by stating the sign has been through a “dedicated team” in relation to “target audience and those visiting the store”. The references have also hit the catwalk. Burberry A/W 2019 sent a model down the runway with a noose around her neck. They have since apologized and it was actually a reference to a ‘sailor’ theme.

Model Liz Kennedy who walked for the show has said “It is not glamorous nor edgy and since this show is dedicated to the youth expressing their voice, here I go... How could anyone overlook this and think it would be okay to do this especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth. The impressionable youth. Not to mention the rising suicide rates world-wide.” Pyer Moss S/S 16 saw a theme of designs on badges and garments with phrases often used to medicate mental illness -including Prozac, Zoloft, Molly, booze and LSD. One model had a list of ‘symptoms’ to a mental disorder down it. The show called ‘double bind’ was

inspired by black lives matter and the reference to mental illness was to “communicate that working-class people deal with depression everyday” said Erykah Badu, stylist of this show. Pyer Moss’ show may be the most yami kawaii of them all, article by refinery29 describing the collection as “[acknowledging) the bitter and the sweet” the article went on to say the collection will be “something people will want to buy not only because the clothes are good, but because the message behind it is an extension of their inner thoughts — demons and all.”.

It appears there is a fine line between brands that support mental illness to those who are insensitive to them, in a microscopic society it will be unlikely brands will showcase the harmful sides to mental illness.

SUPPORT IS AVAILABLE: If you need immediate help: Samaritans

www.samaritans.org 116 123 (free to call from within the UK and Ireland), 24 hours a day Email: jo@samaritans.org

If you need practical help: Sane

Saneline: 0845 767 8000 (local rate on BT landlines) Open 6pm - 11pm every day Email sanemail@sane.org.uk Support Forum: www.sane.org.uk

If you suffer with severe mental illness: www.rethink.org National Advice Service: 0300 5000 927 (Open 10am to 2pm, Monday to Friday) Email advice@rethink.org Support forum: www.rethink.org/talk

If you just need some advice: List of mental health helplines from the Helplines Partnership The Health Talk Online website lets you share in other people’s experiences of health and illness, and has a particularly good section on psychosis.

Mental Health Foundation has lots of information HaveIGotAProblem.com is by the Tasha Foundation and is a free resource about mental health and addiction issues. It has advice and documents on issues including depression, anxiety, self-harm, bipolar, eating disorders and coping.

If you do not want to ring: text THEMIX to 85258. https://www.themix.org.uk

Support on the app store: Stay Alive prevent-suicide.org.uk App with help and resources for people who feel suicidal or are supporting someone else.

If you are a male: www.thecalmzone.net Helpline for men: 0800 58 58 58 Webchat: www.thecalmzone.net/help/webchat/ you can contact all helplines, but this charity is made specifically for you.

If you are struggling with your sexuality: Switchboard 0300 330 0630 (10am–10pm every day) email: chris@switchboard.lgbt switchboard.lgbt LGBT+ helpline. Provides listening services, information and support for lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender communities.

If you are a student and struggling: Nightline nightline.ac.uk Lists contact information for helplines and listening services in universities and colleges across the UK.

If you have difficulty hearing or being understood: ngts.org.uk