Our coast 2017

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THE STORM HAS MADE LANDFALL

COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM Astoria • 503.325.2323 • crmm.org

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Discover

Port of Ilwaco on southwest Washington's

Dining: D ining: Galley Ole Bob's Bob's G alley Cafe Caffe TThe he P ortside Cafe Caffe Portside Salt P ub Pub L odging: Lodging: Hotel Salt Hot el Charter Char rt ter Fishing: Fishing: Coho C oho SSeabreeze eabreeze P acific Pacific B Beacon eacon Shake-n-Bake Shak e-n-Bake Sportsfishing Spor tsfishing

Shops/Gallerie Shops/Galleries: es s s: Books TTime ime Enough B ooks Don Nisbett Artt G Gallery D on N isbett Ar allery Marie Powell Artt G Gallery M arie P owell Ar allery Purly Arts P urly Shell FFiber iber Ar ts JJessie's essie's SSeafood eaffood o Market Market A zure Salon & Spa Azure Ole B ob's Seafood Seaffood o M arket Bob's Market ArtPort Gallery Gallery ArtPort Skookum Surff C Co. Sk ookum Sur o.

Sportsmen’s Sportsmen’s Cannery Canner y Freedom Freedom Market Market RiversZen RiversZen M useums: Museums: C Columbia olumbia P Pacific acific Heritage Museum Heritage M useum Clarkk LLewis ewis & Clar Interpretive Center Center Interpretive

Saturday Market at Sa at turda urd rday M arket a t the the Po rt r to f Ilwaco, Il lwa aco, M ay--Sept t.

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Where the locals go for great food.

Everyone can shop, everyone can save.

Open daily 8-8 | www.astoria.coop | (503) 325-0027 | 1355 Exchange St. Astoria, OR

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our coast Come to

Matt Winters Contributing editor Our Coast Magazine

Listen, and be rewarded.

L

ike most everybody, I carry in my pocket the opportunity to listen to any imaginable song or book, and for a few years I indulged my literary tastes while walking from home out to our cape’s sunset-facing cliffs. Neil Gaiman’s Ocean at the End of the Lane and The Name of the Wind by Patrick Rothfuss are a couple favorites.

But I literally have an ocean at the end of my lane, and learning the name of the wind is a pursuit that requires infinite patience and close attention. So my earbuds have been plucked out, in favor of listening to the world that surrounds me and my companion — an undaunted (and sometimes kind of wimpy) soft-coated wheaten terrier, Duncan. He chases off plump black bears ten times his size but shies away from getting his blond locks wet in the rain.

The Columbia River estuary, Oregon’s North Coast, and Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula and Willapa Bay are a world-famous gourmet banquet for the eyes — as this magazine or Google Images easily attest. Less celebrated, but no less splendid, are its sounds.

The first that deserves praise isn’t a sound at all, but absence of it. Silence is a precious resource. Just as clean, cold water sustains life, a natural state of pure quiet sustains the soul.

If you have always lived in a city, lack of constant background din might be discombobulating. But for us who live here, visiting Portland or Seattle means adjusting to the ceaseless ambient noise of traffic on all sides and aircraft overhead.

Much as we love Pacific Northwest cities and all they have to offer, their chaotic cacophony of sirens, air-brakes, engines, horns, and voices is sandpaper on our nerve endings.

Quiet, like our night skies largely free of light pollution, is part of this place’s fundamental DNA. Unblemished by the harsh static of modern life, here we are free to savor the music of the earth and sea.

By a subtle alchemy of the atmosphere, some mornings here you’d swear the surf is crashing only a few feet away from your bedroom when in reality it might be a mile to the nearest beach, cliff, or jetty.

Other times, the ocean is silent as an ancient sturgeon lounging down in her hole, and I’ve topped the foredune before its soft rumble reaches my ears. It’s like a cat that either roars or purrs depending on mood.

Its most operatic performances are generated by unseen storms out in the distant Pacific or fierce south winds right along the shore. All this pulsing energy clutches the ocean surface and pulls it into exploding walls of water, an assault by giants against the land. These winter armies put on one of nature’s greatest shows, but you’ll need Gore Tex armor to comfortably observe them. And best be nimble, best be quick — the waves can snatch you if you’re not on your toes.

Other things to listen for: • Pacific tree frogs look like green enamel ornaments for a faery’s Christmas tree but emit peeps like a garbage truck backing up. This sound is so closely tied to spring, I’m unsure whether tree frogs signal warming or personally create it. A bit later in the season, red-legged frogs gather in their thousands in local wetlands for love and tabernacle lullabies into the April nights.

• You might think you’re alone on a walk through the lichen-encrusted alders and old-growth conifers of our coast. You’re wrong. Coyote pups and parents are aware of your every gesture. Often, the first they make their presence known is when some distant police siren incites them to a duel. Suddenly,

their high-pitched barks and howls swirl up from the woody hollows, a witch-like but amused chorus, the sound of joyous, unabashed life.

• Of the human sounds, best are the foghorns of skyscraper-sized ocean freighters pushing through the thick vapors and idling fishing boats at the river’s mouth. It is a Cyclopean sound, reverberating around the estuary’s circling hills, a musician’s bass note as it might sound from inside a stadium-sized speaker. On a foggy morning, it commands drowsy sleepers to snuggle deeper into our comforters, guiding us on a path back into complex dreams.

Silence is a • Of all the precious resource. potential offerings on this delicious Just as clean, cold menu of sounds, water sustains life, I’ll end with birds.

Going down to a natural state of the Pacific, there pure quiet nearly always is a sustains the soul. trapeze of flickers that swoops into flight at my approach, scattering with a swiftly diminishing tap of wing beats into the surrounding branches. If ever overtaken by blindness, this sound will still make these cautious woodpeckers visible in my mind’s eye. Coming back uphill through the woods, a different trail leads past owl roosts. Gods and goddesses to the forest’s small creatures, their flight is the distilled essence of silence, so profound it’s hardly audible at all. It is the sound of watchfulness, of being completely present in the moment they inhabit. An uninvited guest lumbering past their home, I wait for them to call my name.

Take time to be quiet when you come here.

Listen, and be rewarded.

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PUBLISHER David F. Pero EDITOR Rebecca Sedlak DESIGN DIRECTOR John D. Bruijn ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Betty Smith PHOTOGRAPHER Danny Miller CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Matt Winters CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Rebecca Sedlak Matt Winters Tim Trainor Erick Bengel Lynette Rae McAdams Nancy McCarthy Andrew R. Tonry Ryan Hume

our coast

14

Our Picks

16

Youngs River Falls

FEATURES

20

A Kid’s Coast

26

Take to the Trees

Number 6 • 2017 • www.discoverourcoast.com

GRAPHICS Alan Kenaga BUSINESS MANAGER Debra Bloom ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES Holly Larkins Lisa Cadonau Brandy Stewart Andrew Renwick

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Here are some of our favorite ways to have and adventure

Cool off in the summer or enjoy the view at this waterfall

Follow these in-the-know tips to survive your family vacation

See some seriously big and seriously ancient tress on our coast

eat & drink

32

WEBSITE www.discoverourcoast.com

The North Fork Nehalem River Angling coastal Oregon rivers is always unpredictable and weather dependent. But this North Coast run is a spectacular place to wet a line.

PHONE 503-325-3211

do & see

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

DIGITAL MEDIA Crindalyn Lyster Travis Clark

OFFICE ADDRESS 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103

DEPARTMENTS

BY TIM TRAINOR

Our Picks Popular places, hidden gems — let these fabulous food finds inspire you

34 Fish and Chips

Here 14 superior offerings that all possess that golden touch

42

Dinner is Served Street 14 Cafe’s dinner service explores a seasonal sense of place

live & stay

Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

GET CONNECTED Interact with us and the community at discoverourcoast.com FOLLOW US facebook.com/ourcoast twitter.com/ourcoast pinterest.com/ourcoastguide

50 Our Picks

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Reserve a room for some R & R or gather inspiration for your home

53 ‘Treehouse over a Creek This cannon Beach couple turned two rustic cabins into a home

EMAIL US support@discoverourcoast.com WRITE TO US 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103

Preserving the Past The call of history is strong in the Columbia-Pacific region and has given rise to a robust culture of historic preservation and restoration.

VISIT US ONLINE discoverourcoast.com offers all the content of Our Coast magazine and more. You’ll find slideshows of stunning photos, videos, tidetable information, travel resources, maps, and more. Discover all the wonderful attractions, lively entertainment, and local quirks of the Columbia-Pacific region.

FIND BACK ISSUES Read up on back issues of Our Coast magazine at discoverourcoast.com/magazine

Our Coast is published annually by The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer in March. Printed in Portland.

Copyright © 2017 Our Coast. All rights reserved.

BY ERICK BENGAL

58 Graveyard of the Pacific The legacy of shipwrecks on our coast continues to endure

66

My Coast Hear why residents of the ColumbiaPacific region call our coast home

+

REGIONAL MAPS & DIRECTORIES

• Astoria/Warrenton Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 • Long Beach Peninsula Map. . . . . . . . . . . . 96 • Cannon Beach/No. Tillamook Co. Map . 98 • Seaside/Gearhart Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 • Index of Advertisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102-104 • Our Coast Business Directory. . . . 104-105

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The Daily Astorian: 800-781-3211 Chinook Observer: 800-643-3703 www.dailyastorian.com • www.chinookobserver.com

EO Media Group

ON THE COVER A surfer walks toward the waves on Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park on the North Oregon Coast.

COVER PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER INTRO PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

A Whale of a Sight Swirling birds and plume give them away — learn to spot humpback, gray, and orca whales in the Columbia Pacific.

BY MATT WINTERS

Whatever the device, visitors can tap into the interactive tools they need to have a great stay discoverourcoast.com

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CONTRIBUTORS Our Coast Magazine 2017

LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS Freelance writer Lynette Rae McAdams arrived in Astoria at the turn of the century, a shipmate aboard the M/V Sea Lion. Instantly smitten by the lush combination of river and sea, she’s been living, working, and playing in the Columbia-Pacific region ever since.

When she’s not writing from her home on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, you can find McAdams roaming the public lands and wild spaces of the coastline she adores (“Take to the Trees,” pg. 26), pondering the legacy of local shipwrecks (“An afterlife for the Graveyard of the Pacific,” pg. 58), or enjoying the vibrant coastal fare served in area restaurants (“Fish and chips for everyone,” pg. 34).

REBECCA SEDLAK Our Coast Editor Rebecca Sedlak moved to Astoria five years ago and was immediately inspired to explore the Columbia Pacific’s stunning beauty, rich history, and small-town charm. When she’s not working on this annual magazine or running the weekly Coast Weekend arts and entertainment section of The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer, she can be found admiring artwork at local galleries, cooking up something scrumptious in her kitchen, or soaking in the lush coastal forests on a hike.

NANCY MCCARTHY Freelance writer Nancy McCarthy recently retired as editor of the Cannon Beach Gazette and the Seaside Signal and South Clatsop County reporter for The Daily Astorian. She writes about local real estate for The Daily Astorian’s Property Lines publications and does feature stories for Coast Weekend.

Throughout her journalism career, Nancy edited several weekly newspapers, worked as a reporter for The Oregonian, and freelanced for Portland-area publications. A Cannon Beach resident for 10 years, Nancy enjoys the North Coast scenery and casual lifestyle.

Recently elected to the Cannon Beach City Council, she is about to embark on a new adventure in politics.

RYAN HUME Ryan Hume is a fiction writer, journalist, and editor. He pens the Word Nerd column for Coast Weekend, and his fiction has appeared in Tin House and Juked, among other publications.

He lives in Astoria with his wife and daughter.

ANDREW R. TONRY Andrew R. Tonry is a writer, musician, and jack-of-all trades living on the North Coast. He writes about art, sports, comedy, politics, and culture. His work has been found in The Daily Astorian, The Portland Mercury, ESPN, MTV, The Oregonian, and more.

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MATT WINTERS “After homesteading in Washington Territory in 1883, great-grandpa and grandma opened a restaurant featuring oysters, vegetables from their own garden, wild-berry pies hot from a wood-fired oven, and barrels of butter. Plus waffles,” says Matt Winters. Pacific Northwest foods are still fully flavored with the spirit of the North Pacific, seasoned with ardent personalities and a dash of humor. This still-vibrant marriage of pioneer spirit and delicious living is a source of constant inspiration for Winters, who has practiced the joyful lifestyle of outer coast newspaper editor for two and half decades. When he isn’t savoring Willapa and Columbia seafood, he walks the cliffs and glens of Cape Disappointment with his undaunted wheaten terrier. A sample of his award-winning columns is available at mythtown.blogspot.com

ERICK BENGEL Erick Bengel is a reporter at The Daily Astorian and a former reporter at the Cannon Beach Gazette. Most of his articles are written on a Folgers jag sometime between midnight and 7 a.m.

When he isn’t typing furiously, tracking down sources, and pretending not to have strong opinions for the sake of objectivity, he can be found reading in the Astoria Public Library, sipping cider at Fort George Brewery, or lecturing patient loved ones about Game of Thrones, Lord of the Rings, cultivating discursive honesty in a world plagued by willful self-deception, and film.

TIM TRAINOR Tim Trainor is an editor at the East Oregonian newspaper in Pendleton. His home river is the Umatilla, but he avidly fishes Eastern Oregon’s Wallowa, Grande Ronde, and Minam rivers, as well as backcountry lakes in the Wallowa and Blue mountains. His trip to the North Fork Nehalem (which he documents in “The North Fork Nehalem River,” pg. 68) was his first outing on a North Coast river. It was extremely productive, and he hooked more than a dozen steelhead and kept his hatchery limit. When he isn’t fishing, he’s writing or dreaming about it.

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A Gypsy’s Whimsy Herbal Apothecary & Gift Shop

E NT ER INT O T H E G YPSY ’S C A RA V A N OF EX OT IC T EA S A ND G IFT S FROM A ROU ND T H E W ORLD RELA X ,E X PLORE ,E NJOY

OPEN Y EA ROUND RMAY -SEPT. 10 OCT.-AP

am-6pm

RIL

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m

H erbal & N utritional R em ed ies B ulk H erbs & T eas A rom atherapy Fair-trad e Im ports E clectic Jew elry

Military Museum & Gift Shop • Memorial Rose Garden Living History Programs • Self-Guided & Guided Tours • Underground Batteries

Open Tues Thru sat 11-6

THE FRIENDS OF OLD FORT STEVENS,

1130 Commercial Astoria

a non-profit organization, supports the maintenance and preservation of the Ft. Stevens Historical Area. Much of our funding comes from proceeds from the museum store, guided tours, special events and camp wood sales.

503-861-2000 Ft. Stevens State Park, Hammond, OR 1947 1863 $ 5 State Park Day-Use Fee OREGON’S DEFENDER Museum Store Website www.visitftstevens.com • foofs@teleport.com

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Minutes from Downtown & Astoria Attractions 42 Room s • 14 D eluxe Kitchens • C a ble w ith H BO C olum bia River View • Free W ireless Internet

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THE MOUSETRAP

by Agatha Christie

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BAREFOOT IN THE PARK

EST. 1980

by Neil Simon

March 3 - April 15 Murder Mystery

STEEL MAGNOLIAS

May 5 - 28 Romantic Comedy

CLUE: THE MUSICAL

by Robert Harling

by Galen Blum, Peter DePietro, Tom Chiodo, Vinnie Martucci & Wayne Barker

June 16 - Sept. 2

June 23 - Sept. 3

Dramatic Comedy

Musical / Comedy / Mystery

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From forest to a fort and onto the river, this park is so many things.

Lewis and Clark National Historical Park Fort Clatsop Visitor Center is located at: 92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 503.861.2471 For more information visit www.nps.gov/lewi The park & bookstore are open daily 9 am - 5 pm Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 13

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do see

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

ourpicks

Conde McCullough Interpretive Display Astoria, OR Many bridges on the Oregon Coast stand as functional monuments to their designer, Conde McCullough, who served as Oregon’s state bridge engineer from 1919 to 1937. A mix of art and architecture, his historic bridges are replete with eye-pleasing art deco embellishments like obelisks, arches, and ornate railings.

Two of McCullough’s early bridges call the North Coast home: the Old Youngs Bay Bridge (1921) and the Lewis & Clark River Bridge (1924).

On the west side of the Lewis & Clark River Bridge — the only remaining pre-World War II single-leaf bascule draw span in Oregon — history buffs and the architecturally curious can find an interpretive display honoring McCullough’s creative vision. Check out the hand-drawn architectural drawings, old photographs, post-renovation salvaged bridge materials, and elementary school children’s poems and drawings, and come away inspired. — Rebecca Sedlak The interpretive display was unveiled in May 2016 after a three-year, $16 million refurbishment of the two bridges.

Highlife Adventures Warrenton, OR Zip-lining should need no introduction. Just in case it does, picture Data from The Goonies strapping himself to a wire and riding through the air from his house to Mikey’s. Of course, the lines at High Life Adventures are a whole lot more professionally robust. There are eight lines, which add up to a mile of zipping. The park is the result of co-owner David Larson’s lifelong passion. He built his first line at the age of 14, charged friends to ride it, and used the proceeds to build more lines. Decades later, David and his wife, Lancey, purchased a 30-acre parcel in Warrenton that now houses High Life Adventures.

(They live there too.) The property includes a seven-acre lake, which, of course, you can zip-line over. On hot summer days you can also zoom into the water.

But High Life’s offerings aren’t just for the summer months — the outfit operates year round, warming groups when it’s chilly with hot chocolate and crackling fires. Indeed, High Life’s tour guides act kind of like concierges — making sure zippers are not only safe but comfortable as they glide around the gorgeous, natural landscape. — Andrew Tonry Find Highlife Adventures on Facebook, or follow on Twitter @HighLifeAdv. Book your own zip-lining outing online at highlife-adventures.com or call 503-861-9875.

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The Columbia Pacific is a playground for every type of explorer, whether you’re an art lover, history buff, sports junkie, or wilderness nut. Here are some of our favorite ways to have an adventure when you’re out and about.

Bell’s View Interpretive Trail Ilwaco, WA Frequently overshadowed by the neighboring North Head Lighthouse, the unassuming Bell’s View Trail may be short, but it’s also emphatically sweet. Spurring from the system of trails within Cape Disappointment State Park, this quarter-mile, fully paved, wheelchairaccessible pathway picks up just behind the parking lot at the end of Lighthouse Road, then meanders gently over the headland toward one of the prettiest views in the region.

Woodland ferns and robust salal blanket the forest floor, and a canopy of towering spruce and hemlock offer shelter from inevitable elements. Along the way, interpretive panels tell the story of life on the edge of the continent — a place entirely dominated by weather — pointing out what will be obvious by trail’s end: “It’s never a question of if the wind is blowing, only how fast and from what direction.”

But don’t let a little wind scare you; come fair weather or foul, Bell’s View is sure to please. Sneak peeks of the lighthouse and relics of a top-secret World War II surveillance center act as teasers for the main attraction: a seven-sided viewing platform jutting over the cliffside, with panoramas of the Pacific as well as head-to-toe shots of the full 28 miles of the Long Beach Peninsula. (Inside tip: This is the perfect perch to watch the spring and fall whale migration — on a clear day, you can see as far as the Olympic Mountains to the north, and the Pacific plays on and on forever.) — Lynette Rae McAdams

Plein Air & More Cannon Beach, OR When National Geographic lists your town as “One of the Most Beautiful Places in the World,” it’s only natural for a plein air artist to want to capture that natural beauty “in the open air.” That’s why Cannon Beach’s Plein Air & More Art Festival every June draws artists from all over the world.

For three days, painters, sculptors, wood carvers, glass blowers, and raku artists gather along the beach, in the local courtyards, and throughout town to depict, in their own style, the village’s varied landscapes while visitors observe their skills.

A variety of workshops — the “& More” part of the festival — also are offered by nationally known artists, who eagerly share their concepts and techniques with participants.

Throughout the weekend, Cannon Beach’s galleries hold receptions featuring locally prepared appetizers. The kids aren’t forgotten, either — there’s always something for them to do.

Plein Air & More provides a way for artists and visitors to celebrate the scenery up close and personal, letting their imaginations run as wild as the nature before them. — Nancy McCarthy

The ninth annual Plein Aire & More Arts Festival will take place June 23 to 25 in Cannon Beach. Learn more at cbgallerygroup.com and cannonbeach.org

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do see

off the beaten path

STORY BY RYAN HUME • PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

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eep inside the squiggle of back roads that thread through the dense forest of unincorporated Lewis and Clark territory just a few miles south of Astoria, there’s a dramatic and serene little secret pouring eternally off the hillside. Down a steep slope from the small parking area, Youngs River Falls plummets 54 feet from on high, blanketing a sheer cliff face in white water before it gathers into a wide pool from which the river moseys on. Cloaked in Doug fir, Sitka spruce, and tall brush, the falls certainly feel like a secret, even if locals have been coming here to relax and play for generations. The falls have also become a bit famous, having been featured in three movies shot in the area: Benji the Hunted, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles 3, and Free Willy 2.

Well before it became a backdrop to numerous Hollywood sequels, Youngs River Falls was a bit harder to find. In 1805, having already spent more than two perilous years riding rivers west through uncharted territories, the Lewis and Clark Expedition hunkered down for the wet winter in a small log fort five miles south of the Columbia River and spent the next four months enduring soggy boots, bouts of influenza, and other maladies amid a seriously dwindling food supply and empty purse. Storms had ravaged the area that year, forcing the abundant herd of elk that frequented the watershed up into the mountains, which in turn forced the Youngs River Corps of Discovery to venture further Falls plummets out from Fort Clatsop to hunt game. It 54 feet from on was on one of these missions when high, blanketing Patrick Gass, who was leading a a sheer cliff hunting party on March 1, 1806, first face in white noted the falls in his journal. Gass water before it clocked the drop at 60 feet, but did not gathers into a offer up a name to mark his discovery. wide pool The river itself had already been named in 1792 by British explorer William Robert Broughton in honor of Admiral Sir George Young of the Royal Navy (of course, the local Clatsop Indians had called it Kil-haw’-a-nakkle for many years before this), though the Vancouver Expedition did not observe the falls during their time on the North Coast.

Today’s Youngs River Falls probably doesn’t look much different than it did back then. Minus one piece of signage, a few sets of rustic stairs carved into the slope, and some vestiges of human visitation, there’s still a pervasive sense of wildness to the area. Many of the paths that web out from the parking area seem carved by either locals or deer.

Floodwaters periodically tumble over the falls, rearranging huge stacks of logs and wiping away the brush. In the summer, when the river is at its lowest and the swimming is at its best, the remnants of campfires can be found among the exposed river rock and pebble beds. Occasionally salmon will swim this far upstream and can be found (or plucked) struggling in the shallow water. There are no bathrooms or trash cans (so, remember to pick up after yourself), parking is scant but free, and the falls are not wheelchair accessible. Keep in mind too that with untamed wilderness comes danger: There have been two fatalities at Youngs River Falls since 2014 — one involving cliff diving and the other involving an attempt to climb the falls.

The swimming hole gets heavy traffic during peak summer months.

Visiting on a drizzly winter day when the river is at its most ferocious, pumping spray into the ether with a soapy, rainbow sheen, is a completely different experience.

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

Check it out To get there from Oregon Highway 202 on the south slope of Astoria, take U.S. Highway 101 Business across the Old Youngs Bay Bridge, and turn left onto Youngs River Road. Follow the curves for 7.5 miles, and turn right at the sign for the falls. From Warrenton, follow Marlin Avenue to where it crosses U.S. Highway 101 Business.

Turn left, and after a few miles continue straight onto Youngs River Road, keeping an eye out for the sign for the falls some 7 twisty miles later.

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

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M U E S U M E E R F S ’ H S R MA Come in & Ask for your

FREE

free! e r a s e smil d n a gh s Come see our

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au l d n na e t t o rg o f e r sa e l b u o r re t e h A Few Quotes From some of Our Visitors w e c a l Ap You gotta’ see J a k e the alligator man!

“1 of 10 great places for monstrous encounters”

– USA Today

“A truly fun place to browse and shop, with something bizarre around every corner. Outstanding music box and vintage arcade collection.

Something for everyone.”

– People Magazine “Marsh’s Free Museum is a world class side show” “Scientists’ call bizarre creature the missing link.”

Join Jake’s Fan Club at: www.marshsfreemuseum.com

“Going to Marsh’s Free Museum is a bit like watching Ben Hur. Every time you do you see something new.”

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do see

A KID’S COAST ( OR HOW TO SURVIVE YOUR FAMILY VACATION )

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

STORY BY RYAN HUME

It’s easy to lose hours with either toddlers or tweens at the beach.

xploring new and natural wonders with your children is certainly one of the most rewarding aspects of being a parent. Eschewing video games, streaming videos, work emails, and other modern distractions for the calming clap of the surf is a great way to get some much-needed family R&R. But, inevitably, even with the sweetest kids, something goes wrong: Attention spans wane, sunburns appear, sugars crash, and you are left wondering what to do next. Luckily, the Columbia-Pacific region caters to the underage set without forgetting that parents like to have fun too.

There’s more than enough to do for the whole family both indoors and out. Try your hand at feeding the seals at the Seaside Aquarium (seasideaquarium.com), or learn about the Graveyard of the Pacific at the Columbia River Maritime Museum (crmm.org) in Astoria. Visiting Jake the Alligator Man at Marsh’s Free Museum (marshsfreemuseum.com) is always a

E

20 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

trip. During the fairer months of the year, almost every community in the Columbia Pacific — from Manzanita up to Long Beach on the peninsula — has weekly farmers markets falling on different days of the week, while the mega Astoria Sunday Market (astoriasundaymarket.com) fills 12th Street in downtown Astoria with live music, food carts, and up to 200 individual vendors hawking everything from handmade furniture to mermaid tails and organic kale.

Even if you don’t make it up to Long Beach for the Washington State International Kite Festival (kitefestival.com) held in August, there are plenty of places to buy and rent kites, and you can follow a breeze into the World Kite Museum and check out its Hall of Fame.

See? You’ve got this. Just remember: A stimulated kid is a kid who goes to bed on time, and a sleeping child is the most relaxing part of any parent’s holiday.

Seeking out our recommendations will truly make your vacation a day at the beach for everyone.

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FUN IN THE SUN

reclined the beach in Cruise along es. bik h ac be three-wheeled

PHOTO BY ALEX

Let’s face it, you didn’t pack up the Prius, buckle in the progeny, and push through traffic to not spend some time in the sand. Whether it’s an evening beach fire on the flat expanse of Manzanita’s shore or just getting your feet wet in front of Haystack Rock before dinner, visiting the ocean can be therapeutic for the whole family, which is why people have been trekking to Oregon’s pristine and publicly owned coastline since the 19th century. It’s easy to lose hours with either toddlers or tweens at the beach. A favorite with both locals and tourists alike, Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park is situated on a cove just a half-mile walk through a dense blanket of forest from a free parking lot off U.S. 101. Check out the last remnants of the Peter Iredale shipwreck on the beach in Fort Stevens State Park. Nearby Coffenbury Lake offers a picnic area, boat ramp, and public restrooms, and it boasts two freshwater swimming areas with a cache of free lifejackets available for safety. Across the Columbia in Cape Disappointment State Park, the driftwood-littered Waikiki Beach is popular with both surfers and families with young children since it has no riptide.

PA JUNAS

BEACHES — THE SURF’S TURF:

From the shoreline of Cannon Beach to the Long Beach Peninsula’s eight-plus-mile Discovery Trail, there’s no better way to experience the Columbia Pacific and its communities than by bicycle, with the added bonus of getting in a little family fitness.

Just in case you forgot to bring your bikes, Family FUNcycles in Cannon Beach rents recumbent tricycles that really move on both street and sand. With multiple locations across Seaside, Wheel Fun Rentals (wheelfunrentals.com) can hook you up with a beach cruiser or tandem bicycle to glide down the Prom or with a surrey big enough for the whole clan. Explore the Discovery Trail on a banana bike from Long Beach Rentals (longbeachmopeds.com), or hit them up for a moped, and spend a few hours cruising the town. Pretty much every place that rents bikes also rents bike trailers so the little ones can glide in style.

Lewis and Clark Nat ional Historical Park, which includes Fort Clatso p, offers a Junior Ran ger activitiy book and act ivities for children.

PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

BIPEDAL TO THE METAL:

If the weather’s nice but the beach is no longer calling your name, the North Coast has plenty of public parks and lands to check out with the fam. Besides offering many major attractions to see and hours upon hours of hiking trails, Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, Fort Stevens State Park and the Discovery Center at Cape Disappointment State Park all participate in the Junior Ranger program, which tasks its budding naturalists with fun activities located across the parks and beyond.

Tapiola Park on the south slope of Astoria has an impressive playground featuring recreations of some of Astoria’s most notable landmarks. Tapiola also has a skate park for older kids, as does Cannon Beach, located right next to the Visitor’s Information Center.

t Stevens Coffenbury Lake at For t location grea a s vide pro k State Par boating. for fishing, swimming, or

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

PARKS AND REC:

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INDOOR PLAY

wn Astoria de in downto The Arc Arca s as well as arcade game offers retro mes. ga ole ns the latest co

The Purple Cow Toy Stor e in downtown Astoria offers both modern and classic fare.

Bumper cars attr act youn alike at th g and old e Funland Arcade in Seaside.

PHOTO BY AN

DREW TONR

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CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF MARIO KART: No matter what time of the year you choose to visit the coast, it is always good to have an indoor Plan B just in case some of the region’s famous inclement weather rears its head. Know that there’s enough air hockey, Skeeball, and video games in the Columbia Pacific to keep the whole family happy when those afternoons go all doom and gloom.

Funland Arcade (funlandseaside.com) in downtown Seaside has plenty of new and classic video games as well as bumper cars, Fascination, and an in-house Fultano’s Pizza for when the kiddos get hungry. Open since 1931, Seaside’s Funland is the area’s oldest amusement. Downtown Long Beach’s own similarly named (but completely independent) Funland Family Entertainment Center offers over 9,000 square feet of gaming, including a midway complete with carnival-style games and laser tag. The newest addition to the North Coast’s gaming community is The Arc Arcade on Commercial Street in downtown Astoria. A nerd’s paradise specializing in retro arcade games as well as the latest console games displayed on HDTVs, there’s a TARDIS in one corner, a concessions counter offering hot dogs and ice cream, and an extensive comic book section as well. It’s certainly the best place in town to fondly relive the spirit of the Spielbergian 1980s with the next generation.

22 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

TOYS FOR ALL: Whether looking for a souvenir or a welcome distraction on a rainy day or even just as a reward for good behavior, the North Coast is home to many unique toy stores. Voyages Toy Company in Cannon Beach has tons of games, action figures, and doodads, and while Geppetto’s Toy Shoppe just down the road also offers modern wares, the shop specializes in stocking plenty of oldfashioned toys and puzzles. Inside the Carousel Mall in Seaside, Under the Big Top deserves a browse or an impulse buy after you take the young one for a spin on one of the mechanical horseys. Speaking of brightly colored barnyard animals, Purple Cow Toys in Astoria has a large selection of both modern and classic fare.

THE COLUMBIAPACIFIC REGION CATERS TO THE UNDERAGE SET WITHOUT FORGETTING THAT PARENTS LIKE TO HAVE FUN TOO.

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

PHOTO BY DANN

Y MILLER

do see

Page 22

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FILLING UP THOSE BELLIES EATING OUT:

s with ria supplies kid Cafe in Asto ed snack.

The Wet Dog ag ck pa a d ment, a toy, an coloring equip

PHOTO BY DANN

Y MILLER

While many if not most restaurants here do a good job catering to the younger set, there are two places in Astoria — nary a block apart — that rise above the fray.

The Wet Dog Café (wetdogcafe.com) knows that tykes are hungry by the time they get to the table. Besides offering a standard brewpub kids’ menu, the Wet Dog also donates crayons, a coloring sheet, a small toy, and a packaged snack, replenishing much-needed blood sugar just when it’s most necessary. Right across the way, the pizzeria at Baked Alaska (bakedak.com) offers kids the chance to make their own pies at the table before they are whisked away for a fresh bake in the eatery’s brick oven. It can be hard enough just to figure out a place to eat where everyone will be happy. Nice to keep the kids’ stomachs from growling and their hands occupied just when mom and dad could really use a cold pint or a glass of pinot noir after a long beach day.

e is a part Enjoying an ice cream con ce. rien of the coast expe

PHOTO BY ANDRE W TONRY

Kids can make their own pies at Baked Alaska’s pizzeria in Astoria.

DAILY ASTORIAN FILE PHOTO

A SCOOP FOR YOU: Whether you need to beat the heat on a warm summer day or are just looking for something to do after dinner before heading back to the hotel, the Columbia Pacific has confections galore. With other locations in Seaside, Manzanita, and Rockaway Beach, the original Schwietert’s Cones & Candy (schwieterts.com) in Cannon Beach is still just that: homemade waffle-cones, Tillamook ice cream, and plenty of unique, wacky candy choices. In a town awash in midcentury salt-water taffy establishments, Seaside’s Sea Star Gelato (seastargelato.com) stands out from the circus-striped pack. Wrapped in a vibrant modern aesthetic, this shop offers dozens of flavors — plenty of kid-friendly choices like Bubbles, Beach Bonfire S’mores, and Rootbeer Float while also catering to the adult palate with creations like Blood Orange Sorbetto and Whiskey Maple gelato. Right on the water in the 14th Street Pilot Station, Astoria’s Frite & Scoop (friteandscoop.com) has been dishing out French-style custard ice cream and Belgian-style frites for well over two years, much to the delight of locals and visitors alike. With an ever-changing slate of scratch-made flavors (Chef’s Choice and Hokey Pokey are customer favorites) and new and innovative dipping sauces constantly appearing for the frites, every visit to this charming local establishment offers a new choice. And if choice is your thing, you can’t go wrong with Scoopers up in Long Beach. The shop boasts of keeping more than 40 flavors available at all times. Just figuring out what flavor to choose might kill an entire evening for the fam!

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do see

T A K E

T O

T H E

TREES A tour of the best our evergreen coastline has to offer STORY & PHOTOS BY LYNETTE RAE McADAMS

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T

here’s a feeling that comes of hanging out with old trees — something innate in each of us that awakens in the presence of such enormous, peaceful beauty. That they have stood for so long and witnessed so much is awe inspiring to be sure but also somehow softly comforting: Big trees always feel ancestral.

Whether you’re simply driving by, out for an easy stroll, or dedicated to putting in a little effort, this collection of favorites is sure to transform — leaving you suddenly, quietly, changed for the better.

DRIVE-BY TREES Cypress Row Oysterville, WA Partway down Territory Road in the historic village of Oysterville, a stand of immense Monterey cypress lines the east side of the street. Planted by a local resident near the turn of the 20th century, the grandiose trees are now more than 110 years old and have become stately icons in this bayside hamlet.

Indigenous to the central California coast, where high winds and the constant spray of salt take a heavy toll, most examples of this species are flat-topped and rather scraggly, their twisted limbs pushing back at the elements like broad, angled brooms. Here though, on the lee side of the Long Beach Peninsula, where the trees have been magnificently tended and pampered, they’ve shot up like sentinels — their arms outstretched and sheltering — the protective guardians of Oysterville.

The Captain’s Sequoia

Cypress Row

The Captain’s Sequoia Astoria, OR A sea captain, Columbia River bar pilot, and successful businessman, George Flavel was undeniably one of Astoria’s most influential citizens. His family’s Queen Anne-style mansion, now a historical museum, is a showcase of furnishings and decor that reflect world travel and sophisticated tastes; it’s no surprise that the same can be said for the garden.

Nine trees on the Flavel estate — all believed to have been planted between 1886 and 1895 — are now Oregon Heritage Trees, the most impressive of which is a Giant Sequoia. Entirely dwarfing the northwest corner of the property, this 125-year-old colossus, a native to the

California Sierra Nevadas, looms near the top of Duane Street. A youngster among sequoias, which can live to be 3,000 years old and grow to 300 feet tall, this fine beauty, with its curving limbs and enormous trunk, currently stands between 90 and 100 feet — and shows no signs of stopping.

Care to have lunch with one of the oldest living things on earth? Consider a picnic at the foot of this remarkable giant.

Monkey Puzzle trees Native to the Andes mountains of South America, this evergreen tree, also known as the Chilean pine, belongs to one of the oldest species on Earth: Considered a living fossil, Araucaria araucana has survived for at least 60 million years. Though individual specimens can live for a millennia, none of our local examples are more than 112 years old.

How can we be sure? In 1905 the city of Portland hosted the Lewis and Clark Centennial Exposition, a celebration that included 21 participating nations, Chile among them. As gifts, the Chilean ambassadors offered seedlings of this curious tree, and it’s believed the ones we see today sprang from that generosity.

Dotting the coastline, in parks, home gardens, and even the side yards of businesses, these souvenir trees (and now, their descendants) are easy to spot: Their leaves, which look like scales, are thick and triangular, with very sharp edges and tips; their long, cylindrical limbs swing down, carrying branches that remind us of this tree’s other common name — the Monkey Tail.

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do see Teal Slough Trail

FAIRLY EASY ACCESS TREES Klootchy Creek Spruce Seaside, OR The first tree to earn designation as an Oregon Heritage Tree, the “Seaside Spruce” as it’s called, was once the largest tree in the entire state. At 216 feet tall and 56 feet around, its presence eclipsed all else in the forest. For almost 800 years, it weathered every coastal gale and evaded every ax, but in 2007, a severe December storm brought about its downfall.

Today, the fallen titan’s stump, along with a portion of the trunk, remains at Klootchy Creek County Park — just 2.5 miles east of Seaside on U.S. Highway 26 — and is definitely worth a look. An easy walk from the parking area to the heritage site, the path circles the mighty remnant, still impressive, then makes a wider, level loop through the surrounding temperate rainforest.

Short Sand Beach Trail Oswald West State Park, Arch Cape, OR This half-mile walk to Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park wanders through one of the most wellpreserved coastal rainforest ecosystems in the Columbia-Pacific region. From the parking lot on U.S. Highway 101, following the gentle curves of Short Sand Creek, a wide gravel path meanders under a multilayered canopy of Western redcedars, Sitka spruce, and Western hemlock — many, especially large. At the halfway point, connect with the Old Growth Trail — an easy detour that will lengthen your time with the trees before rejoining the main trek, which ends at one of the prettiest beaches on the coast. Popular with just about everyone, prepare to share this well-trod path with surfboards, strollers, and lots of friendly dogs.

Teal Slough Trail Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, WA Tucked in the forest above Teal Slough, on the east side of Willapa Bay, stand some of the oldest cedars left in the Pacific Northwest. Part of a remnant old-growth forest within the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, the trees are accessed by a short (.57 mile-long) trail that picks up just 1.5 miles north of refuge headquarters on U.S. Highway 101. Park near the gate (please don’t block it), and head up the old logging road for about 300 feet. This first section of the walk is moderately steep, but soon you’ll be directed to a spur road that levels off nicely. Arrow signs point the way to separate stands of trees, and the enormity of these ancient cedars will take you very much by surprise. A handful of towering Sitka spruce hold court here as well, and don’t miss the tree at trail’s end, with a peek-a-boo view of Willapa Bay.

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WORTH THE EFFORT TREES Astoria, OR If ever there was a tree that stood as an emblem for the spirit of a city, it’s the Cathedral Tree — a 300-year-old Sitka spruce that resides a third of the way up Coxcomb Hill, home to the Astoria Column. Withstanding every fire, squall, and hurricane to come its way, the tree remains a paradigm of steadfastness: Even during the devastating storm of 2007, when the forest structure surrounding it succumbed to 100-mph winds, the Cathedral Tree stood its ground.

If you made the trek to the tree in the days and years immediately following that disaster, no doubt you were disappointed — what once was a tall, thriving, multi-layered forest had suddenly become a barren, muddy mess, and the tree that had seemed to tower with elegance now looked small and unimpressive. Almost a decade later though, things have changed again.

Give this trail at 28th Street and Irving Avenue a second chance, and you’ll be doing yourself a favor. Rising up from the urban environment at its feet, the forest has regained its vigor: Lush ferns, trillium, and skunk cabbage once again bedeck the ground, and an understory of alder, juvenile spruce, and hemlock is on the return. Center stage, the Cathedral Tree looks on, as if maternally, keeping a careful eye on the rebirth of her legacy.

Pick up the trail street side or at the parking lot of the Astoria Column. Steep in places, this well-trod path can be slippery when wet; proper footwear is the key to happiness.

Coastal Forest Loop Trail Cape Disappointment State Park, WA Cape Disappointment State Park is a wealth of trails that all frolic back, forth, and over this stalwart headland at the south end of the Long Beach Peninsula. Though each one offers a prime sampling of the lushness of our coastal forests, the trees along this 1.5-mile loop are the best of the bunch. Pick up the Coastal Forest Loop Trail near the parking area at the boat launch, and hike up through a mixed wood of alder, spruce, and elderberry. Large Sitkas, some of them 10 to 12 feet in diameter, appear at every switchback toward the middle of this trail, which gains in elevation only little by little, so

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

Cathedral Tree Trail

Cathedral Tree Trail

it’s never very painful. Views of Baker Bay and a wide sweep of the Columbia dot this delightful route, sweetening the pot at every turn.

Don Bonker Cedar Grove Trail Long Island, WA Accessible only by private boat, the Long Island unit of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge is home to a grove of Western redcedar that has existed for almost 4,000 years. Though the individuals currently growing at this 274acre site are only — only! — about a thousand years old, evidence of their ancestors, as well as their offspring, is all around.

Punctuating this 5-mile loop trail, which picks up at the south end of the island, a

handful of ancients twist and turn their way toward the sky, mingling with neighbors of spruce and hemlock. Near the middle of the island, where the official “grove” is located, the trail narrows, wrapping entirely around this special remnant of old growth. While there are tall trees here in magnificent number, the real beauty lies in this forest’s ability to offer a unique vision of time — a place where past, present, and future all collide beneath a canopy of evergreen. Gargantuan stumps, leftovers from the early days of logging, let us imagine how this forest once looked, untouched, while saplings and thriving young adults offer the promise that one day, it will be that way again.

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eat drink Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

ourpicks

EVOO Cannon Beach, OR While it most certainly serves meals, Cannon Beach’s EVOO isn’t exactly a restaurant. Owners (and spouses) Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery-Neroni refer to the multi-coursed dinners as “shows,” and their terminology is no stretch.

EVOO’s intimate dining room is also the kitchen. Seats circle the chef, a la Benihana. But rather than just flash, EVOO’s program is explicitly instructive. The Neronis prepare each course while detailing techniques, discussing sourcing, and exploring flavor. Their syllabus has a particular intention: teach diners how to recreate these dishes at home. (Recipes are provided.) Each three-hour program includes three courses, dessert, and wine pairings along the way. The menus change each month, reflecting seasons and the availability of local ingredients. And while working with local bounty gives EVOO a Northwest flavor, inspiration and foundation come equally from Italy, where the Neronis regularly visit and even lead guided tours.

A recent menu included pumpkin squash risotto, seared rockfish with puttanesca, grilled New York strip steak, and gingerbread spicechocolate soufflé cake. In addition to regular dinner programs, EVOO offers specialized courses such as bread making, Classic Crepes 101, and more. Adjoining the teaching kitchen is a small shop, where diners can pick up some of the tools and components incorporated that evening. An integral purchase: the school’s namesake — extra virgin olive oil. — Andrew Tonry

Like EVOO on Facebook, or visit evoo.biz for dinner show schedules, food allergy/restriction accommodation information, and to register.

Astoria Warrenton Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival Astoria, OR

The 2017 Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival is set for April 28 to 30 at the Clatsop County Fairgrounds. Learn more at astoriacrabfest.com 32 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

When it comes to Oregon’s home-grown culinary delights, wine and seafood are darn-well near the top of the pyramid. Hence: the Astoria Warrenton Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival, which is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year on April 28, 29, and 30.

Alongside the event, the Beaver State’s wine industry has matured in those 35 years. Vintages from Oregon’s Willamette Valley have rightfully become recognized as world-class — particularly pinot noirs. At the fest, a myriad of wineries — from Oregon and beyond — pour tastes and sell bottles and cases. (There’s even a “wine check” where you can store purchased wines while continuing to stroll unencumbered.) There are also awards; fest judges will crown a “Best White” and “Best Red.” And for those with different tastes, a number of local breweries will be pouring pints too.)

As for seafood, Dungeness crab is among the headliners. As is tradition, the Astoria Rotary Club offers crab dinners, either a whole or half. It’s their biggest fundraiser of the year. The hall is also stocked with food vendors offering plates and bites including oysters, fish, and more. And while wine and seafood might suggest an air of stiff erudition, the festival is very much a casual, celebratory affair, with a full slate of live music to go along with the clinking glasses. — Andrew Tonry

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There’s no shortage of places in the Columbia Pacific to find a good meal.

Whether you’re looking for homemade baked goods, a fine evening dinner, or some fresh seafood, let these fabulous food finds inspire you.

Bailey’s Bakery & Cafe Nahcotta, WA If it’s your first time dropping in at Bailey’s, be prepared for a phenomenal surprise: Alongside the mudflats and oyster beds of Willapa Bay, in the very last place you might expect it, this itsybitsy bakery and cafe is the hidden gem you’ve been hoping to discover.

Tucked on the outskirts of the Long Beach Peninsula’s north end, Bailey’s is a local hot spot — a favorite for both breakfast and lunch: Mornings arrive with tender buttermilk scones and lightly toasted house granola, or perhaps a farm fresh egg sandwich, perfectly grilled. For lunch, try something from the short but spectacular list of made-to-order sandwiches, like a panini loaded with ham and gruyère cheese, laced with caramelized onions and a Basque pepper mayonnaise.

Daily specials play to the changing seasons, offering inspired salads and made-from-scratch soups that practically sing. Freshly baked breads feature in almost every dish, and there’s plenty to take home too: You might walk away with a whole wheat Pugliese or a multi-grain harvest loaf, along with pastries, cakes, fruit pies, or a choice from the legendary case of cookies.

Don’t blame the locals for keeping this neighborhood hub a secret; show up just once for Friday clam chowder (gluten free) or Sunday morning Thunder Buns, a house specialty sticky roll that sells out every weekend, and you’ll understand the need for greed. Sometimes, when things are this good, it can be awfully hard to share. — Lynette Rae McAdams

To find this hidden treasure, head to 26910 Sandridge Road 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.

The Irish Table Cannon Beach, OR

The Irish Table serves dinner and only accepts reservations for parties of four or more; call 503-436-0708.

By day, the small building in midtown Cannon Beach is Sleepy Monk Coffee house, where visitors and locals stand in line all the way to Hemlock Street, waiting to order their favorite latte or just a strong cuppa java. But by night, the place becomes The Irish Table, where equally as enthusiastic crowds line up beginning at 5:30 p.m. to enjoy delectable dinners prepared in the small kitchen. Tables spill out of the cozy dining room, into the foyer, and onto the front porch, which is heated in the winter.

Irish specialties — Irish stew, chicken pasties, and vegetarian shepherd’s pie — mingle with other items, including flat iron steak, pork chops, and the fish of the day; the menu changes. But a filling meal can be made from a bowl of savory soup and substantial salads, along with homemade soda bread.

Start your dinner with an appetizer of curried mussels, cheese board, or Dungeness crab toast, and end it with an Irish coffee. You don’t have to go far to experience a little bit of Ireland with a touch of the Oregon Coast. — Nancy McCarthy

Osprey Cafe Seaside, OR

Located at 2281 Beach Drive, the cafe is open for breakfast and lunch Thursday through Monday.

For a taste of the eclectic, the Osprey Cafe is the place to go. This popular small neighborhood cafe, just a couple of blocks from the beach in Seaside, often lists some interesting daily specials: kimchi pancakes or yellow curry catfish tacos, for example. While the menu also has traditional American breakfasts and sandwiches, it leans decidedly toward Spanish and Asian flavors as well.

Arepas — cornmeal patties from South America — are a specialty, either alone or with huevos rancheros and other dishes. Nasi goreng, with Indonesian rice, shrimp, chicken, and sauteed vegetables, topped with an egg, is a customer favorite. For lunch, choose among the pork belly banh mi sandwich, the lomo saltado Peruvian stir-fried beef plate, arroz con pollo, chicken salad sandwich, mac-n-cheese, and other fare. Vegetarian items also are available.

Sit outside in warm weather or pull up a chair in front of the fireplace on chilly beach days.

Then, get ready to savor some South American or Asian fare — Seaside style — Nancy McCarthy Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 33

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eat drink

2

Fish

AND

Chips

FOR EVERYONE STORY BY LYNETTE RAE McADAMS

F

rom the light, beer-battered specialties of our breweries and cafés, to the Panko-crusted offerings of our finest dinner houses, every local line cook and executive chef has his or her own spin on what makes this sea-faring classic truly sing.

It’s not just the batter that matters; what’s inside counts too.

34 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

Fresh cod? Wild salmon? Albacore tuna? Or perhaps you’ve come here on a quest for halibut, and simply nothing else will do.

In a sea of fish and chips, it can be tough to know just where to cast your net, but herein lies a showcase of our region’s best — 14 superior baskets that all possess that golden touch.

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5

1 4

1

THE COVE 9604 PACIFIC WAY, LONG BEACH, WA

Cod is king when it comes to the fish and chips at this favorite Long Beach eatery, which overlooks the Peninsula Golf Course. Adorned with a light beer batter, ample pieces of fish rest atop a pile of coated fries — all of it glowing to golden perfection. The house tartar is just the right amount of tangy, and the side of Asian chili coleslaw lends a pleasing sweetness; with service that’s some of the friendliest in town, the only thing you’ll be wanting is more.

2

SALT PUB & HOTEL

5

dinner. Ample portions of beer-battered albacore are always top notch, and the hand-cut fries are great too (though the Dungeness crab hushpuppies are even better).

3

THE OLD FISHTRAP 779 U.S. HIGHWAY 101, CHINOOK, WA

The quintessential watering hole for this working fishing town, The Old Fishtrap has a fleet of local fans, and with good reason. Freshcatch fish and chips change seasonally (and sometimes daily) but are always tender, flaky, and crisp, served with hand-cut fries and coleslaw made from scratch.

147 HOWERTON AVE., ILWACO, WA

Overlooking the port of Ilwaco, this upstairs pub adds a salty flair to family-friendly dining.

Watch the day boats come in from your panoramic seat at the window knowing one of them just caught the fish you’ll be having for

4

BOWPICKER FISH & CHIPS 17TH AND DUANE STREETS, ASTORIA, OR

If you’re a fan (and you should be) of the albacore fish and chips craze that’s sweeping the coast, you have the Bowpicker to thank for it. A

pioneer of this tasty sensation, Bowpicker sells its finely battered fare direct from a converted old fishing boat that now has a galley for a wheelhouse. Lines can be long, but the wait is so worth it: Incredibly moist fish pairs with crispy, tender steak fries, all of it served to go.

5

CLEMENTE’S 175 14TH ST., SUITE 180, ASTORIA, OR

Sitting dockside along the Columbia River has its perks: One is an incredible view, 365 days a year; the other is easy access to some of the finest fishing grounds on Earth. Clemente’s takes advantage of both, offering a selection of fresh fish for the frying, including cod, halibut, and, whenever they can get it (which is, thankfully, often), wild salmon. The extra omega fats in this exceptional fish take this dish over the edge, turning casual fare into something special and uniquely Northwest.

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eat drink

6

7 10

8 6

BUOY BEER NO. 1 EIGHTH ST., ASTORIA, OR

One of Astoria’s premier craft breweries, Buoy Beer resides in a refurbished waterfront cannery, replete with outstanding views and exceptional food and drinks. Rockfish is the everyday winner for the restaurant’s popular basket of fish and chips, which is prepared with a light and crispy tempura beer batter (obviously) and served with tartar and a wedge of lemon. Cold beer. Fried fish.

River view. Complete happiness.

7

THE SHIP INN NO. 1 SECOND ST., ASTORIA, OR

An icon on the Astoria waterfront for more than 40 years, this English pub and restaurant serves great fish and chips — it’s practically a genetic requirement. Run by a Brit, The Ship Inn sticks to a traditional beer-less batter that works flawlessly with either the cod or halibut — both available in 36 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

generous half or whole portions. Thick-cut steak fries are more like the real-deal “chips” of the U.K., and the malt vinegar is already on the table.

Did we mention the view?

8

BRIDGEWATER BISTRO 20 BASIN ST., ASTORIA, OR

It’s almost unbelievable that fish and chips that taste this good could also be gluten-free, but leave it to the Bridgewater, one of the region’s finest restaurants, to offer us something delightfully new. At this restored historic boatyard, with fabulous bridge and river views, wild Alaskan cod is bathed in evaporated milk, tossed in a blend of seasoned corn and rice flours, then fried precisely right, delivering a dish that is light and crisp but also wonderfully succulent.

9

THE PORTWAY 422 W. MARINE DRIVE, ASTORIA, OR

The first bar within walking distance of the

port’s West Basin Marina, The Portway has been a haven to every fisherman, dockworker, and international sailor in Astoria since 1925. The tavern is weathered and worn and authentically salty in all the very best ways, and if we didn’t mention their fresh halibut fish and chips, there’s a good chance someone might try to fight us. The fish and chips are awesome: Lightly battered and cooked just so, they’re as good as you can get them.

TUNA 10 GRIZZLY 850 N. ROOSEVELT DRIVE, OR Blending the best of British stand-alone chip shacks with America’s first love, the automobile, this drive-thru marvel serves only fish and chips, made only from tuna — and boy, are they good at it. Ensconced in a thick-as-a-grizzly’s-fur coat of Panko, which perfectly offsets the firm, juicy fish, Grizzly Tuna is one of a kind in taste and delivery.

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11

SIMPLE TARTAR SAUCE 13

14 COAST BREWERY 11 PUBLIC 264 E. THIRD ST., CANNON BEACH, OR At Cannon Beach’s newest brewery, the beer may be great, but the fish and chips are out of this world. Offering halibut or the fish of the day, this counter-service establishment takes your order then sends you off with a pager that lights up and vibrates like mad the second your food is ready. Cleverly, since you’d never be foolish enough to let it sit in the window, this ensures a piping hot delivery every time. Oh-so-lightly battered, this pick is as fresh and crispy as they come. ’S TAVERN & BREWHOUSE 12 BILL 188 N. HEMLOCK ST., CANNON BEACH, OR A fixture in this coastal town since the earlyearly days, Bill’s consistently serves up really cold beer and really hot fish and chips in a kidfriendly pub with a dog-friendly patio — essentially the best of every world. Large portions of cod or halibut are dipped in the house’s own beer batter, served with extra crispy fries, garlic bread, tartar, and lemon.

FISH & CHIPS 13 TOM’S 240 N. HEMLOCK ST., CANNON BEACH, OR They may be fairly new in town, but Tom’s made a splash right from the start. Serving classic beach food that’s fast, family-friendly, and affordably priced, the fish and chips here are noteworthy for their flavor and otherwise fried goodness but also for their variety: Cod, halibut, salmon, prawns, or clams all make worthy baskets. Kids will love the free paper sailor hats.

DUNE PUB 14 SAN 127 LANEDA AVE., MANZANITA, OR Inside, it’s a classic Oregon tavern — a little bit loud, a little bit sassy, and a little bit long on great beer; in other words, just the way we like it. Outside on the patio (weather permitting), there’s a kind of bistro vibe that also seems to fit right in. Wherever you end up, we’re sure your generous portion of cod fish and chips will arrive lightly battered, on a heaping mound of fries, with tartar and fresh lemon aplenty. These folks have been doing it right since 1935. Trust them; you’ll be happy.

A classic accompaniment to seafood, fresh tartar sauce is so quick and easy to make, you’ll never settle for the store-bought variety again. Coarse and tangy, this version can be tailored to your tastes: Punch things up by adding garlic, horseradish, cajun seasoning, hot sauce, or fresh herbs.

1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon diced onion 1 tablespoon diced dill pickle 1 tablespoon chopped capers 1 1⁄2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons lemon juice pinch of sugar Whisk all ingredients together in a medium bowl to blend. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill for at least an hour; serve cold.

Yields 1 1⁄2 cups

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“We’re Fun!” Step back in time and enjoy our retro ratpack Mid-Century Modern Motel.

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Located at the light in

Ocean Park

Founded 1885

Open 7 days a week Groceries Hardware General Merchandise (360) 665-4989

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eat drink

Dinner

IS SERVED

With a menu sourced exclusively from local farms and purveyors, Street 14 Cafe’s weekend dinner service expertly explores a seasonal sense of place.

STORY BY RYAN HUME • PHOTOS BY DANNY MILLER

S

ince October 2015, the venerable coffee shop Street 14 Cafe has led a not-sosecret second life as one of downtown Astoria’s most exciting fine-dining destinations. Around 5 p.m., owners Micha and Jennifer Cameron-Lattek, plus staff, including front-of-house manager Allyx O’Connor, have figured out how to quick-change a Stumptowndripper into a nearly reservation-only must-eat.

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Jennifer and Micha Cameron-Lattek opened Street 14 Cafe in downtown Astoria after living in Berlin and becoming Stumptown Coffee Roasters’ first purveyors in Germany. They expanded their bistro coffee shop to include a seasonal weekend dinner service in the fall of 2015.

T

he dinner-service effect at Street 14 is similar to the pop-up restaurants one might expect to find in New York, San Francisco, or Los Angeles, when a new chef overlays their philosophy upon an existing structure or institution, usually only for a limited amount of time. With the lights dimmed low and attentive servers at the ready, comrades of the Commodore Hotel may déjà vu on why their dinner reservation is in exactly the same locale as their morning coffee, but once the food arrives all questions are pushed aside as salivation commences.

And happily, here in Astoria, Street 14’s dinner service is a permanent fixture Thursday through Sunday, not a temporary or trendy flux.

Looking back over their first year of dinner service in October 2016, owner Micha Cameron-

Lattek noted that, “Starting dinner service was like opening a new business.” He expressed gratitude that Street 14 has attracted such a large and local following. “We see many of our dinner customers at least once a week, and they keep bringing friends and family. Word of mouth has helped our day service become popular, and we’re happy and grateful to see something similar happening during dinner service.”

Perhaps locals keep coming back so often because they know that no two meals at Street 14 are alike — each is great on its own terms. With a shifting weekly menu sourced exclusively from local farms and purveyors, the dishes coming out of the kitchen at Street 14 reflect the best of any season’s offerings, with a special focus on handmade pasta and inhouse created preserves. A meal taken in at the crux of fall, near Street 14’s one-year dinner-service anniversary, consisted of pickled

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vegetables, including a few tasty rounds of fermented bullwhip kelp, smoked salmon rillettes, an earthy and scrumptious pasta special of long, toothy tonnarelli tossed with porcini mushrooms, and a pan-roasted pastured steak served atop an heirloom tomato salad. Each dish felt balanced and thought out and arrived on the table with a subtle yet impressive presentation.

If it is easy to close your eyes and imagine that you are eating at one of the world’s poshest restaurants, that’s because Chef Andrew Catalano has spent many years working in them.

Beginning with farm-to-table feasts on a number of organic farms in Italy, Chef Catalano put in time at Gramercy Tavern and Maialino in New York before moving to Ned Ludd in Portland, all on his way to relocating to the North Coast. “Andy and his wife,

Sarah, had been coming in as customers for a while before we started talking about our plans to build a kitchen,” Cameron-Lattek explained. “As it turned out, Andy was looking to make a change.

With years of fine dining experience in New York City and

Starting dinner service was like opening a new business.

Portland, it was the right moment for him to be in charge of his own kitchen.”

North Coast diners are certainly glad the pairing worked. Our Coast spoke with Chef Catalano around the occasion of Street 14’s dinner-service anniversary about his cooking philosophy and the trials and travails of cooking in the moment in a brand-new space.

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How and when did you end up in Astoria?

My wife and I left New York for Portland in 2011. After living in Portland for two years, we decided we wanted to buy a house and put down roots, had fallen in love with Astoria specifically and the North Coast in general, and made the leap. So we’ve been in town for about 2.5 years now and loving it.

What would you say is the biggest difference you’ve found between professionally cooking in a major metropolitan area and a small coastal town?

Years of cooking in high-profile NYC kitchens has really ingrained in me the low-level sense of panic or urgency that I think — unfortunately — is part of the mentality of a successful line cook. I still find myself sprinting through the days and hours leading up to Thursday night service, only to usually find the dining room empty at 5 p.m. So there is definitely a difference in scale.

As a cook, I have minimal interaction with our guests, but I do find our guests to be gracious, open, and excited for a good meal. I think the percentage of guests for whom a meal at a place like Street 14 is a financial stretch is far higher than in NYC, and I consider it a privilege to be able to cook them their special meal. I think that that sense of camaraderie between guest and host is something that was shared by the best places I worked, but it’s certainly not everywhere.

The flip side of that is a more limited familiarity with certain terms or techniques I use on the menus and employ in my cooking.

One of my biggest concerns before opening (and still today) is that the menu — which I spend a significant amount of time on every week — will intimidate rather than entice. I hope by now people know that as soon as they walk through the door they will be comfortable. I consider a lack of pretense a necessary condition for a good meal, regardless of the style of food.

month. I find the whole cycle fascinating and really rely on it to direct my cooking. There’s a season for blanching, a season for roasting, a season for fermenting, a season for leaving everything raw, and so on.

Of course, by late winter I had done all I really could with roots and cabbage, so I was excited to start seeing some more variety as the weather warmed.

Street 14 Cafe’s Chef Andy Catalano takes a brake from cooking to pose for a portrait in the Street 14 Cafe kitchen.

What attracted you to taking on the challenge of starting a dinner service at Street 14?

My wife and I moved to Astoria in part to pursue a dream of opening our own place. I happened to met Jen and Micha at just the time they were beginning their search for a chef. It seemed too perfect an opportunity to pass up. I was ready to get to work and start creating, and they were looking for someone to take up the task.

Your menu changes weekly and is focused on seasonal availability and local providers.

Which particular season do you get most excited about food-wise and why?

I think a year on the North Coast might best be broken up into 26 two-week seasons. Sure, there are plenty of leafy greens growing year-round, but really for a temperate climate there is considerable fluctuation week to week and certainly month to

What dish or dishes that you’ve spun out of the kitchen do you feel best describe what you are aiming at for Street 14? Is there a dish that feels like a signature dish? One that best encompasses your philosophy?

I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say we’ve served over a hundred different dishes in the year we’ve been open, with an average of 10 to 12 every week. It’s really hard to remember them all! I am usually most proud of the simplest ones. An early spring salad of quickly blanched snap peas, roasted hazelnuts, and finely grated goat’s feta from Fraga Creamery exemplified my goal of limiting a dish to three ingredients, or three dominant flavors, that make sense together.

Also, a recent pasta called scarpinocc: It was filled with cabbage, which was a surprise delivery from one of our farmers. I charred it and then braised it in whey — the by-product of the ricotta we make from a day’s worth of extra steamed milk from the coffee bar up front. I added a local washed rind sheep’s cheese, and served it with a sauce of locally foraged mushrooms.

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I feel like I’m just scratching the surface of the mushroom world. We work with several wonderful foragers, and the finds they bring in really add a whole new dimension to seasonal cooking.

Is there any ingredient that you’ve had trouble sourcing locally in Astoria? Or something that you wish you could see more often?

Honestly, fish has been the biggest and most often recurring headache since we’ve opened. The commercial fish distribution chain is so opaque, it’s extremely difficult to find out where and when your fish is being caught.

Add to that winter storms and other environmental factors, and it’s a real challenge. Of course, it’s more frustrating still to be living in a place that is practically surrounded by water and to see my colleagues in Portland with access to better, fresher fish.

This is why — aside from salmon season, which I am utterly grateful for — the fish offerings at Street 14 change so often. I have never served frozen fish and am committed to getting only the freshest sustainably caught fish, and with these parameters the options are quite limited and

change all the time. There were a couple weeks in January that I only had canned tuna available.

Really good canned tuna, but still!

most intensive learning now, week by week. I have a self-imposed deadline of Wednesday night at midnight to finalize the week’s menu, though I don’t always make it, so in the days and hours leading up to that I try new things. It’s quite challenging to explore new projects but still ensure that by Thursday service I will have a collection of dishes that I am proud of and comfortable asking people to pay money for.

Our first dinner menu had one pasta on it, and it was a dried one.

Note: I love dried pasta just as much as fresh. Just had to mention that, as I often find people assuming fresh pasta is inherently better. As the months progressed I got more comfortable with our weekly format and was able to expand the offerings. We recently had four pastas on the menu, three of which were fresh. I think that was about the breaking point!

Guests should expect a fresh pasta on the menu weekly, but maybe only one or two.

Recently, your menu featured a perfectly grilled steak atop of what is essentially a heightened panzanella — the ancient, Italian peasant salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and stale bread. What role does tradition play in your cooking philosophy? What role does experimentation play?

I think the two go hand-inhand. We have centuries-old cooking traditions all around the world, combinations of local ingredients and development of native techniques — an arsenal of knowledge that it would be foolish to ignore. Given the foundation of tradition, though, I think it’s important to maintain a sense of play, which keeps the cook engaged in her work. This duality has made it difficult for me to articulate the identity of Street 14. I always come home to “rustic Italian,” but given a random sampling of dishes one would find some really different things!

Of our Northwest bounty, do you have a favorite local ingredient to work with?

I feel like I’m just scratching the surface of the mushroom world. We work with several wonderful foragers, and the finds they bring in really add a whole new dimension to seasonal cooking. I just preserved a batch of porcini that I am looking forward to using in a salad this winter.

Your menu is centered around housemade fresh pasta.

How and where did you learn to make pasta?

Most recently? Today at Street 14! I have worked with pasta for years now, experimenting at home, working at farm restaurants throughout Italy, and at the restaurants I worked at in New York. But I am probably doing my

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We have centuries-old cooking traditions all around the world, combinations of local ingredients and development of native techniques — an arsenal of knowledge that it would be foolish to ignore.

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I would really love to see is other restaurants in town working toward more of a local commitment. I see it happening, but I think what is necessary to really strengthen the local food economy is a re-thinking of the

role of restaurants into something like what they used to be: gathering places where people enjoy the foods that grow in that area. A sense of place that is really shared between farmer, forager, restaurant, and consumer.

For information on future events including prix fixe dinners showcasing the area’s local bounty, sign up for Street 14’s newsletter at street14cafe.com

LOCAL HANDCRAFTED SEASONAL ·

I’m glad to see that our pickle plate is getting ordered more frequently than it originally was; right now we have a huge variety of vinegar-pickled and lacto-fermented vegetables and fruits. The various types of ferments that we do here really unlock flavors that you can’t create in any other way.

Pickling, fermentation and in-house smoked meats all make regular appearances on your menu.

What role does preservation play in your cooking philosophy?

A very prominent role, hopefully. Working on farms in Italy and at farm-to-table restaurants, a common thread has been the need to take a sudden abundance and make it last. That’s the spirit of seasonal cooking: What is available and beautiful now, and how can we make the best use of it over time? I’m glad to see that our pickle plate is getting ordered more frequently than it originally was; right now we have a huge variety of vinegarpickled and lacto-fermented vegetables and fruits. The various types of ferments that we do here really unlock flavors that you can’t create in any other way. A steak dish that we did last fall featured celeriac puree, roasted Brussels sprouts, and a few slices of fermented radish between the slices of steak. The dish would have been fine without the radish,

but the funkiness really played with the meat and the roasted flavors beautifully.

Is there any dish that you have turned out that surprised you? Either from its popularity, customer reaction, or that you were just simply surprised to find “working”?

I can say that our fermented bullwhip kelp was surprisingly delicious. Tasted like a deli sour pickle with an oceanic tang. Also a recent stew: roasted pastured pork shoulder from Nehalem River Ranch, fermented plum puree, roasted autumn squash, and pickled green tomato. This was one of those that popped into my head fully formed, and I just went with it.

Your list of local suppliers continues to grow. Is there any relationship or arrangement down the road that you are currently excited about?

I’m so grateful for the relationships we have and am always excited to start more. What

·

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MENUS, HOURS AND NEWSLETTER AT: WWW.STREET14CAFE.COM 1410 COMMERCIAL STREET ASTORIA, OR 97103 503-325-5511

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Crafted for the Senses

Seaside’s newest hotel offers a state-of-the-art indoor heated pool, game room, river view rooms, fitness center, on-site fire pits, fenced kids playground and so much more.

For reservations call 503-717-5744 or visit www.riverinnatseaside.com 531 Avenue A • Seaside, Oregon 97138

Seaside family lodging

Located directly across from Seaside Convention Center, the Inn offers freshly baked cookies upon check in, complimentary breakfast, indoor heated pool and free bike rentals to explore Seaside on two wheels.

For reservations call 503-738-9581 or visit www.innatseaside.com 441 Second Ave • Seaside, Oregon 97138

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Peninsula Arts Association

2017 PAA ART EVENTS April 7-9 ~ 26th Spring Art Show ~ LB Depot & PAA Office June 9 ~ Unveiling NW Garlic Festival Poster Reception ~ Ocean Park June 17 & 18 ~ NW Garlic Festival (posters on sale) ~ Ocean Park July 4th ~ Parade Sidewalk Chalk Give-Away ~ Ocean Park; Parade Route July 14 & 15 ~ ArtSations Summer Event ~ LB Depot & PAA Office October 6-8 ~ 16th Fall Art Show ~ LB Depot and PAA Office November 24 & 25 ~ 10th PAA Studio Tour ~ Peninsula Locations (TBD) www.beachartist.org www.facebook.com/paabeachartist/

Pick up your FREE info Packet at the Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau (intersection of Hwys 101 & 103)

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EVENTS CALENDAR

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Imogen Gallery

BEST WINE SHOP

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Astoria, Or 503.468.0620

Cannon Beach’s Best Selection of Oregon and Washington Wines

imogengallery.com

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71 years serving visitors in Long Beach An Iconic Astoria Waterfront Hotel Relax and be immersed in Astoria’s maritime heritage.

Spectacular Marina-View Balconies In All Rooms Four unique theme rooms depicting the cultural history of Astoria.

400 Industry Street | Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2013 www.astoriariverwalkinn.net

A Great Place to Enjoy the Beach!

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live stay Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

ourpicks Lighthouse Keeper’s Residence

Call 1-888-CAMPOUT or visit stayatawashingtonlighthouse.org to make a reservation.

Cannon Beach Cottage & Garden Tour Cannon Beach, OR Visitors to Cannon Beach who are captivated by the village’s Cape Cod-style cottages can step inside and experience several of those homes during the annual Cottage & Garden Tour.

Hosted by the Cannon Beach History Center and Museum each September, the popular tour shows off a medley of homes, ranging from historic cabins built in the early 20th century to modern dream homes, each staffed by volunteers who can point out interesting tidbits about the houses and surrounding gardens.

But the tour offers so much more than vintage cottages. The multi-day event begins with a concert on Friday night, segues into a luncheon and lecture about Cannon Beach’s history and architectural style on Saturday, followed by the visits to the homes Saturday afternoon and a reception and concert that evening.

Rounding out the weekend on Sunday is an English-style garden tea and presentation on a garden-related topic. Tickets are available for each individual event or for the entire weekend.

With the Pacific Ocean and Haystack Rock as a dramatic backdrop, the Cottage & Garden Tour acts as Cannon Beach’s own “open house,” sharing with others the experience of living by the sea.. — Nancy McCarthy The 13th annual Cottage & Garden Tour takes place Sept. 8 to 10, 2017.

Get tickets at cbhistory.org

50 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

Ilwaco, WA Since 1898, the North Head lighthouse has stood its rocky ground as an active aid to navigation, helping hinder the risk faced by every ship that journeys through the Graveyard of the Pacific. Though now fully automated, for decades this steady beacon relied on a human crew to keep the blaze alive. And for the men and women who worked in service to the lighthouse, life in those early days was fraught with all the challenges of severe weather and extreme isolation — certainly not a job for the faint of heart.

Then again, it wasn’t without its perks; chief among them, a 24/7 vista of one of the most beautiful and dramatic natural scenes on Earth.

Today, all the romance and glamour of a lighthouse keeper’s life, including that incredible view, is yours for the renting — minus any of the hardship.

Operated by Cape Disappointment State Park, the head lighthouse keeper’s residence, as well as two assistant keepers’ quarters, make up some of the most unique vacation rental opportunities in the region. Recently renovated and nicely appointed, these historic Victorian properties blend modern comforts with the richness of the past: Three bedrooms upstairs sleep up to six people, and downstairs a full kitchen, living room, and dining room allow for plenty of space to spread out; simple but tasteful antiques, along with hardwood floors and comfortable furniture, add warmth and coziness.

Whether you’re tucked in by the window for the storm of the century or scampering over the hillsides in a long stretch of sunshine, this slice of life on the edge is bound to be a treasured memory. — Lynette Rae McAdams

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If you’re visiting the Columbia Pacific overnight — or, as a local, taking a welldeserved staycation — you need a place to lay your head. Reserve a room for some R&R or gather inspiration for your own home: These places are aces in our book.

Gilbert Inn Seaside, OR Step into the grandeur of the late 19th century at the Gilbert Inn in Seaside. The 124-year-old Victorian home, only a block away from the Seaside Promenade, is a bed and breakfast with a colorful history.

Built first as a two-room cabin in 1885 and expanded into a larger, grander house in 1892, the home was owned by Alexandre Gilbert, a French ex-patriot who moved to the North Oregon Coast to seek his fortune. He owned businesses in Astoria and Seaside, donated land for the Promenade, and later became Seaside’s mayor. The town’s historic Gilbert District is named after him.

Used by the Gilbert family until the 1970s, the renovated Gilbert Inn is now owned by Haystack Lodgings and offers 11 bedrooms with private bathrooms, each decorated differently.

Visitors can read by the fireplace in the lobby, which retains the original tongue-and-groove old-growth fir paneling, or they may want to sip their morning coffee in the bright sun room. Browsing in the home’s library is encouraged. In the evening, guests often gather around the fire pit to swap stories about their day at the beach.

A little history, a bit of romance, some fun at the beach — the Gilbert Inn has it all. — Nancy McCarthy

Follow the Gilbert Inn on Facebook or Instagram @thegilbertinn, or call 503-738-4142 or visit gilbertinn.com to book a room.

Lighthouse Oceanfront Resort and Tennis Club Long Beach, WA Far enough from town to offer perfect sanctuary, but close enough to everything to still be convenient, this multi-faceted property lies just north of Long Beach, beckoning world-weary travelers with an array of delightful amenities. Paying homage to its beginnings as a classic 1950s roadside motel, the resort maintains a row of original vintage cottages that line the ridge above the highway. But follow the signs around the bend and through a thriving young pine forest, and you’ll soon discover that this is a place that exists in two worlds at once: Rising up through the dunes, against a backdrop of ocean and sky, comes a 21st-century complex of luxurious one, two, and threebedroom townhouses, most with views of the Pacific.

No matter how your needs and your budget line up — whether you land in a premium king suite or a charming, rustic cottage — count on a few fundamentals: Each unit has a fireplace, free WiFi, and fully stocked kitchen, and every guest has access to some spectacular extras unique to the Lighthouse. As though friendly staff, fine accommodations, and easy access to 28 miles of open beach weren’t enough, this property also offers a heated indoor saltwater pool and hot tub, fitness room, conference and event spaces, indoor tennis and pickleball courts (replete with on-hand professional instructor), a European coffee bar, and acres of woodland trails and dunes to explore. Pets are always welcome and so are the locals: With rentable conference rooms and annual tennis club memberships available for individuals, families, or businesses, there’s truly something here for everyone. — Lynette Rae McAdams Learn more by visiting lighthouseresort.net or calling 877-220-7555.

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at home

‘TREEHOUSE’ OVER A CREEK

This Cannon Beach couple turned two rustic cabins connected by an open deck into a cozy home nestled in the trees.

STORY BY NANCY MCCARTHY • PHOTOS BY DANNY MILLER

M

ike and Stacy Benefield don’t have to venture out of their Cannon Beach home to hear the sound of a babbling brook — or the rush of a waterfall in the winter.

Their house, built on a hillside in the north side of town, sits over a creek bed, which fills with water during the rainy season and even retains some water in the summer. When the clouds really burst, the water rushes down the hill and over rocks and tree stumps, creating a “waterfall.”

Mike said all that water doesn’t worry him, even though he occasionally checks to see how high the creek is rising.

“I figure the house has been here for 40 years, so it’s not going to go anywhere,” he said.

Although it is solid and built to current building codes following a renovation four years ago, the house wasn’t always as comfortable as it is now. When the Benefields bought it in 2005, the building actually consisted of two houses connected by a narrow, open deck.

“They were the parents’ cabin and the children’s cabin,” Mike said.

During a remodel in 2013, the home’s exterior siding was replaced with hand-sawn cedar shin gles.

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live stay

‘I wanted what was done to look like it had always been here,’ Mike Benefield said of the 2013 remodel.

away from The deck curves an existing e er wh e, the hous that space. tree can grow in

current Cannon Beach city councilor and former city planning commissioner, Mike spent 20 years as a corporate officer at a major company and also worked as an engineer for the National Aeronautics and Space Administration.

Stacy is the board president for the Friends of the Haystack Rock Awareness Program, a member of the Cannon Beach Farmers Market Committee, and a frequent volunteer for community projects.

The Benefields and their son, Will, moved to Cannon Beach from Utah. They selected the town after visiting other locations along the coast because of its friendliness and scenery.

But when they first saw the house, it had no insulation nor sheetrock; the ceiling had open rafters. The stairs to the open loft had no railing.

Electric power was provided with a flex cable

A

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stapled to the walls; there was one light connected to a chain hanging from the ceiling. The walls were painted bright orange and purple.

The original family home was built in 1971 for a former Portland State University professor and became the site for a few weddings and an early alternative school.

“We came here with the idea of finding a lot to build on,” Mike said. “We saw a ‘for sale’ sign on the street and thought the property looked pretty interesting.”

“We loved the neighborhood,” said Stacy. The residential north end of Cannon Beach is quiet and is bordered by the beach at Chapman Point.

When they talked to the real estate agent and learned the price, at first they thought it was high, compared to other lots they had viewed. But then they learned the property consisted of three lots and the house that was hidden on the wooded hillside that they hadn’t seen.

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l added a The 2013 remode een the tw be en new kitch hallway, ck ba d an om ro living ive ns featuring an expa , a granite counter top of s lot d an skylight, ets. drawers and cabin

Stacy’s first reaction to the house was, “This is weird.” But Mike thought it had “potential.”

Topping the list of things to do when they moved in was to straighten the house, which had shifted to the west over the years. The house was built as a pole building, where upright posts are attached to concrete columns, then the wall framing is constructed horizontally to the post.

To straighten the house, Mike and his friends attached an end of a cable to one of the home’s poles and the other end with a winch to a car, which also was attached by cable to a tree to keep from sliding. They winched the house up until it stood straight again and installed a shear wall in the house to support it.

Next, the house was replumbed and rewired, and the open deck between the bedroom and living room was covered. A ceiling — with insulation — was installed. Finally, the home was “move-in ready.”

But other projects lingered. The tiny kitchen occupied a cramped corner of the living room and had only two drawers and two cabinets. The only place to eat was in the living room.

Although the house, nicknamed the “treehouse,” was delightfully surrounded by trees, it was dark inside with old-growth fir paneling; it needed more windows.

When Mike and Stacy decided to remodel in 2013, they contacted Coaster Construction in

Cannon Beach. Builder John Chesnut worked with them.

They designed a new kitchen and dining area.

They also hoped to widen and extend the original 4-square-foot deck the length of the house, replace all of the windows and their frames, and build more closets. The house had only one very small closet, and that was in the living room.

While they wanted an updated house, they didn’t want it to feel too modern. “I wanted what was done to look like it had always been here,” Mike said.

Before they began on the interior, however, they checked the posts holding up the house. One of the posts was rotting from the top and a tree was growing out of it. That pole was replaced, and the top six feet of the original post was “planted” in the backyard, where the tree is still alive, its roots still inside the post. All the treated wood posts were attached to concrete foundation posts — which are at least seven feet in the ground — with earth anchors and guy wires.

The new kitchen became the home’s centerpiece, literally: It was built between the living room and back hallway. With an expansive granite counter top and lots of drawers and cabinets, the kitchen has plenty of space for several cooks.

Floor-to-ceiling windows line the wall opposite the kitchen area, looking out over the front deck and forested area beyond and providing much more light. Another floor-toceiling window occupies a space adjacent to a long, antique dining table; the view is of the trees on the adjacent hillside, which enhances the feeling of being in a treehouse. Additional light comes through two skylights.

The Benefield home featur es an open loft above the liviing room and floor-to-ceiling windows off ering views of the surrounding forest.

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It’s a fun house.

It’s small, but we enjoy it.

To give it an “original” look, the floors are composed of reclaimed fir to blend with the floors throughout the house. On the back of the kitchen peninsula, around the window frames and on the walls and doors of the new pantry is the vertical old-growth fir siding that came from the home’s exterior. The frames around the home’s other windows also are clad in the same siding.

The home’s exterior was replaced with handsawn cedar shingles.

A small gas stove keeps the kitchen toasty in the winter; there’s enough space on the stove’s soapstone top for a tea kettle to stay warm.

Hanging over the dining table is a chandelier that combines glass crystals and small, metallic elk heads. It suits the décor.

“We couldn’t figure out what to hang there,” said Stacy. “I wanted something shiny and Mike didn’t. We found this (online), and it seemed to be a compromise.”

There’s a second, smaller table near the preparation area where the family can have a casual meal.

“We can comfortably have 12 people in here where before we couldn’t comfortably have six,” Stacy said.

The living room corner that once was the kitchen was turned into a small office, with another view to the backyard and the creek that runs down the hillside.

A small office, offers a view of the creek that runs dow n the hillside. Old-growth fir that came from the home’s original exterior now frames many of the windows.

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Outside, the deck extends from the master bedroom at one end of the house to the living room at the other end, providing enough room for friends to gather. The deck curves away from the house, where an existing tree can grow in that space. Before the remodel, the original 4square-foot deck was built to accommodate the tree, which was about 8 inches around at the time. As the tree grew, the earlier owners would cut a larger hole for the tree in the deck. The tree is now about 36 inches around.

The Benefields say they are happy with the remodeling project and their compact 1,600square foot “treehouse” over a babbling creek.

“It’s a fun house,” Mike said. “It’s small, but we enjoy it.”

dining table Hanging over the t combines is a chandelier tha small, d an glass crystals s. ad he metallic elk

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live stay AN AFTERLIFE FOR THE

Graveyard of the Pacific STORY BY LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS â&#x20AC;¢ PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

Since the early days of exploration, the treacherous mix of water and sand near the mouth of the Columbia has claimed hundreds of ships and an untold number of lives. Though hard-earned experience and changing technology has placed our infamous era of shipwrecks mostly in the past, its legacy will long remain.

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I

n the hours of first light on the foggy morning of Oct. 25, 1906, Capt. H. Lawrence, the last to leave his stranded vessel, came ashore in a lifeboat with only three things in his possession: the ship’s log, a sextant, and a demijohn of whiskey. Turning to face his floundering craft, an angry surf still boiling all around her, he snapped to attention, offered a dignified salute, and, after a moment of silence, said to his ship, “May God bless you, and may your bones bleach in the sands.” Joining the members of his onlooking crew, all of them sodden and exhausted, he placed the whiskey at their feet and, with a flourish of his hand, gave them one final, merciful order: “Boys,” he said, “have a drink.”

All 25 members of the crew of the Peter Iredale, as well as two stowaways, walked off with their lives that fateful morning — luckier by far than so many who had come before. I think of them each time I walk that stretch of beach on Clatsop Spit, imagining how the burn of the whiskey would have felt as it hit their empty stomachs, how the illusion of its warmth would have radiated out to arms and legs long numb with cold, and how none of them, locked only in their joy to be alive, could ever have conceived that more than a century later, their farewell toast would still be lingering on the breeze.

The Peter Iredale: Shipwrecked 1906 The Peter Iredale wrecked on Clatsop Spit in 1906 and has drawn a captive audience ever since.

This photo dates back to the 1930s. PHOTO COURTESY COLUMBIA PACIFIC HERITAGE MUSEUM

Of course, the “bones” of the Iredale, or at least what’s left of them, remain to this day.

Easily the most well-known and most visited shipwreck in the Pacific Northwest, it became a tourist attraction the very morning that it ran aground. Local schools let out early, horsedrawn carriages plowed through sand to see it, and the first of a hundred years’ worth of photographers started lining up to take its picture.

Famous mostly by virtue of its easy access and longevity, the Iredale is emblematic of a shipwreck’s intrinsic ability to captivate a crowd. Attracted to the drama of the scene — a moment of catastrophe, frozen tangibly in time — humans have been flocking to these disasters for as long as we’ve been taking to the seas.

Quick to embrace any tragedy not our own, an open window into someone else’s misery somehow brings our own good fortunes sharply into focus.

But it’s not only the insight of calamity that carries an allure. In the days of sail and steam, when they occurred with staggering frequency, every shipwreck also bore the promise of its own exotic bounty.

Famous mostly by virtue of its easy access and longevity, the Peter Iredale is emblematic of a shipwreck’s intrinsic ability to captivate a crowd.

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n Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, where I make my home, all 28 miles of open beach was once a testament to these maritime mishaps, and every longtime local remembers the days when their rusted, twisted hulls protruded from the sand in number. Even the wrecks that precede current memory still live on as local legends — their stories the ever-intriguing blend of tragedy and reward, compounded by the romance of the high seas. Local lore is full of the tales of noble captains and mutinous mates, cruel storms and daring rescues, fortunes and lives wagered and lost; and who among us hasn’t felt their childlike imagination quicken at the thought of buried treasure or chests of gold?

In fact, shipwrecks that offered practical provisions were actually considered more valuable, and in the early days of pioneer settlements, just as dramatically life-changing.

Consider the Merrithew, which wrecked during the harsh winter of 1853, scattering cases of pickled fish, wine, raisins, candles, and building materials from Cape Disappointment all the way to Willapa Bay. The beach-wide bonanza that ensued was said to leave a new evening prayer on the lips of all the local children: “God

The Harvest Home: Shipwrecked 1882 The American bark Harvest Home wrecked near the north end of the Long Beach Peninsula in 1882. An instant tourist attraction, her hull remained visible on the beach for decades afterward.

PHOTO COURTESY COLUMBIA PACIFIC HERITAGE MUSEUM

bless Pa and Ma, and please bring a wreck in on our beach.”

In Oysterville in 1860, the Woodpecker dropped 800 pounds of flour; in 1865, the Industry lost a cargo load of liquor. The Harvest

Home, wrecked in 1882, brought with it a multitude of wagons and paint, along with enough Wellington boots to “fill a barn.”

More than 150 years of flotsam produced sideboards full of silver, endless amounts of lumber, several pianos, fine silks, blankets, table linens, chunks of coal, and, a personal favorite, the spoils of the Vazlav Vorovsky, a Russian steamship that deposited so many tubs of lard and butter that all the citizens of Long Beach were said to have it stacked on their back porches — enough for a decade, at least. >>

I continue to look on with fascination, alert to the lessons and legends of these shipwrecks that still whisper in the wind.

Vaslav Vorovsky: Shipwrecked 1941 The U.S. Coast Guard helps rescue Russian sailors from the Vaslav Vorovsky, which wrecked in the Columbia River in 1941.

PHOTO COURTESY COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM

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The Alice: Shipwrecked 1909 Curious onlookers observe the rescue of the crew of the French ship Alice, which wrecked near Ocean Park, Washington, in 1909.

PHOTO COURTESY COLUMBIA PACIFIC HERITAGE MUSEUM

Today, almost 70 years has passed since the last major ship was thrashed along these shores, but remnants from those early days are all around — in our place names, our museums, our antique stores, even our neighborhoods.

T

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oday, almost 70 years has passed since the last major ship was thrashed along these shores, but remnants from those early days are all around — in our place names, our museums, our antique stores, even our neighborhoods. In Ocean Park, next to the public library, there’s a cabin called The Wreckage, built in 1912 from materials almost entirely salvaged from local shipwrecks. A few blocks north sits The Door House — a charming cottage sided from a shipment of ornate doors that all fell overboard and washed ashore in the mid 20th century. Not far from there, a porthole from the remains of the Strathblane adorns a neighbor’s front door.

And on the beach near my house, every few years after a particularly savage storm, the Alice still rolls over in her grave to say hello.

Stranded here in 1909, the French schooner was a vision of three-masted sail, her rigging

fully intact the morning she struck sand. By the next day, the local Clamshell Railroad was already offering a special excursion route to see her, and people lined up in droves to make the journey. In photographs of the day, men in three-piece suits and women wearing long, layered dresses, look on with fascination at her helpless plight. Carrying an unlucky cargo of cement, they watched her belly succumb to the shifting sands, sinking lower and lower as the months, and finally years, passed by.

But the Alice wasn’t eager to end her time aloft. That slow descent took decades, and even now, at low tide after a fierce blow, I usually know where to find her. There’s not much of course, and what’s left is hard to discern. Some years I think I see the base of the foremast; other times she reveals what looks like the long line of a well-shaped keel. When she does show, it’s usually just for a day or two, then quick as can be, the tide turns, and she’s gone again.

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It’s hard for me to say just what it is that makes me seek her out, but like the Iredale, her bones speak to me. Oak and iron long ago gave way to rust, but still they reach up, twisting over now and then, the final reminders of a distant but still touchable time in local history. And like the men and women in those old photos, who stepped forth from buggies and trains in fancy hats, their necks craning for a view, I continue to look on with fascination, alert to the lessons and legends of these shipwrecks that still whisper in the wind.

In their day they bore the gifts of plenty, and now, even in ruin, their ghosts continue to enrich our lives with intrigue and imagination. Laced with all the complicated trappings of humanity, their stories are many, but their message is one: Time and tide may shift the sands around us, but the past is ever present — imploring us, beseeching us, to hold its memory dear.

SOURCES: Gibbs, James A. Pacific Graveyard. Binfords & Mort, 1973.

McDonald, Lucille. Coast Country, A History of Southwest Washington. Ilwaco Heritage Foundation, 1989.

The Wreckage: Built 1912

O’Neil, Wayne R. Man & The Sea. Midway Printery, 2013.

In Ocean Park, there’s a cabin called The Wreckage built in 1912 from materials almost entirely salvaged from local shipwrecks.

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PHOTO BY LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS

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MY COAST HEAR WHY LOCALS CALL OUR COAST HOME INTERVIEWS & PHOTOS BY DANNY MILLER

JEFF DALY Director of Obtainium Studio • Astoria, Oregon Jeff Daly grew up in Astoria and, after living in the San Francisco area for most of his adult life, only moved back to Astoria about five years ago. “Astoria isn’t what I thought it was. It had become something new when I came back,” he says. Daly’s continually working on creative projects in the community, including the parklet located on 11th Street in downtown Astoria, running the Glam Tram transportation rental, and fixing up the clown car for The Sons & Daughters of an Original Astoria Clown group.

Says Daly, “I can’t imagine being anywhere else.”

DOUG KNUTZEN Realtor with Long Beach Realty • Ilwaco, Washington Doug Knutzen first moved to the Washington coast in 1978, serving in the U.S. Coast Guard stationed at Cape Disappointment, and has lived here ever since.

Knutzen is part of a volunteer surf and cliff rescue team on the coast and is also battalion chief of the volunteer Pacific County Fire District 1. “I like volunteering for the community,” said Knutzen. “I like helping when I can help.”

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JENNI TRONIER Marketing and Operations Director at the Coaster Theatre • Cannon Beach, Oregon Jenni Tronier, the marketing and operations director at the Coaster Theatre, first moved to the coast in 2012.

“I think that’s what the artistic life of Cannon Beach brings — a nice energy,” says Tronier about arts and theater in Cannon Beach.

HONEY PERKEL Author • Seaside, Oregon “I have had a love affair with Seaside my entire life,” says Perkel.

Perkel is creatively inspired by her coastal location, and many of her books take place in Seaside and on the Oregon Coast.

MATT STANLEY General Manager, Astoria Co-op Grocery • Astoria, Oregon Matt Stanley has lived and worked in Astoria for nine years. “Our size lends itself well to having some pretty strong connections,” says Stanley about the Astoria community. Astoria Co-op Grocery works to sponsor events and engage the community with health, feeling good, and tasting good food, says Stanley.

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STORY BY TIM TRAINOR â&#x20AC;¢ PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

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cast upstream of the waterfall — as instructed — and watch my bait float down through the braided green water of the North Fork Nehalem River.

Guide Drake Radditz had spent the previous night curing the steelhead eggs now gobbed onto the hook, treating them with salt and borax and food coloring so they hold together and look appetizing to a fish.

At the tail end of the drift, there it is: the silver flash of an underwater steelhead, the bend of the rod, the tenuous connection to a strong and wild thing. Fish on.

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Whether you are just dipping your toe into the sport or already are a seasoned pro, the Columbia-Pacific region is one of few left in the world where you can fish for every salmon species on this side of the ocean, and that’s in addition to world-class clamming and crabbing and saltwater fishing in bays and open ocean.

Radditz lives in Warrenton and spends much of the year guiding anglers down the Trask, Wilson, Kilchis, Nehalem, North Fork Nehalem, and Necanicum rivers in search of salmon and steelhead. And when the fish are elsewhere, he goes and finds them — running multi-day excursions down the Deschutes and the John Day in Central Oregon, the Salmon River in Idaho, and one-off, far-flung tropical locations.

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THERE’S VERY FEW PLACES IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN FISH WHAT YOU FISH HERE. But the North Coast is his home, and the fishing there matches anywhere else he has traveled to — for variety, for productivity, for a challenge.

“You just have to be ready for anything,” he said. “That’s the fun of it.”

Salmon and steelhead are the primary quarry for North Coast recreational anglers, and that’s what most of Radditz’s clients target too.

If an angler wants to fish a specific river or stretch of water, Radditz can tell them when best to schedule their trip. And if a client only has a free day to fish, Radditz is always aware of what tributary is fishing best.

“It’s a little luck,” he said. “But overwhelmingly it’s practice and knowledge.”

Robert Bradley is a fish biologist for the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s North Coast district.

He grew up in the Eugene area, cutting his fishing teeth with bobbers and worms and panfish. But like most Oregon anglers, he soon caught the salmonid bug, and the year-round ability to scratch that itch is one reason he moved to Tillamook.

The variety of fish excites him as both a biologist and an angler. “In particular, we have some of the last coho hatcheries left,” he said. “There’s very few places in the world where you can fish what you fish here.”

Bradley also appreciates the variety of waterways. The region is home to big rivers, medium rivers, small rivers, and the tiniest streams. There’s saltwater and freshwater and places where the two meet. There are lakes, reservoirs, and — most days — plenty of puddles.

“When one river is blown out, isn’t fishing, something else is,” said Bradley. “The North Fork (Nehalem) is a good example. When the bigger rivers are out, it can be right on.”

Conditions were prime in early January on the North Fork Nehalem, which stands apart from the other fantastic coastal rivers in the region. It’s farther from Portland than the Trask and Wilson, which cuts down on the crowds.

The dangerous rapids help reduce them even further. The usual guided day float begins at the ODFW fish hatchery and ventures over three named rapids, known colloquially as Jack, Queen, and King. Their difficulty — and their well-earned reputation for claiming lives — keep away all but the most experienced river runners.

The best place to fish for winter steelhead on the North Fork is the canyon section downstream from the hatchery. It is also the most scenic. Waterfalls tumble and thunder off both sides of the canyon, bald eagles glide overhead, tufted ducks and common mergansers float nervously downstream. The day trip finishes at a tidally affected, brackish takeout roughly eight river miles downstream. Through the canyon, bank access is difficult, meaning anglers won’t feel the heat-of-the-run pressure that can be stifling on other waters. >>

A GUIDE FOR FINDING A GUIDE CHOOSING A FISHING GUIDE CAN BE A DICEY PROPOSITION You’re choosing both a business partner and a buddy — there’s important work to do, but you have to spend a whole day in the boat with this person. You want to have a good time doing it.

And there is a lot at stake. Many people can only afford a guided fishing trip once or twice a year, most only once or twice in a lifetime.

So getting stuck with the wrong guide can turn what should be a memorable day on the water into an unproductive one or, worse, an infuriating one.

So here’s a guide for finding a guide, some helpful tips on ways to make your trip a success before you ever wet a line: Before searching for a guide, ask yourself what kind of guide you are searching for.

Every angler is different, and their expectations for a guide are different too. Some want a no-nonsense professional who keeps the chit-chat to a minimum and puts all their energy into putting the boat and the bait in the right position. Others want a more gregarious partner, who waxes about history and ecology and great fishing stories as they putter across lakes and row down streams. Think about the kind of person you want to spend the day with first.

DO YOUR DUE DILIGENCE If fishing is important to you, odds are you’ve met a guide, had one recommended, or know one who lives down the road. In the fishing mecca of the Columbia-Pacific region, throw a stick toward a river, and odds are it will hit a guide or two before the water.

But while a guide might be easy to find with a phone book or a Google search, that might not be your best choice. Finding the kind of guide who will mesh with you takes work.

Word of mouth is key. Ask your buddies who you fish with often, who know you best. Ask them about guided trips they’ve taken and who they found to be most productive and competent, and who they would avoid. But be wary of the second- or third-hand recommendation. A friend of a friend of a friend might not know what is best for you and may stick you with someone you’re not compatible with.

When you see an ad in the newspaper, call up the guiding service and ask lots of questions. Fly shops and sporting goods stores have good tips, too.

ONCE YOU FIND SOMEONE YOU LIKE, DON’T LET THEM GO Treat the guide well and remind them how much you appreciate them. Tip them cold hard cash or cold hard whiskey. Help drag the boat out of the water when you stop for lunch, and help lift it onto the trailer when you’re done for the day. Be careful with equipment, and listen carefully to directions.

Exchange phone numbers and email addresses, and make it clear that you love fishing and they should call you when the river is at its best. Many guides love a good client as much as a client loves a good guide. If you create relationships with quality professionals, make a good impression, and treat people with respect, your network will strengthen and expand. Pretty soon, you’ll have the personal connections necessary to choose the guide who fits you best each and every time. And when you’ve got that, the fish better look out.

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BAITING THE HOOK

CASTING THE LINE

Natural bait is common for most steelhead fishing — the fresher the better. Eggs can be harvested from hatchery fish, cured and colored, and used to catch more.

Casting for steelhead with a fly rod isn’t pretty — the equipment is heavy, and the rods are stiff and made for standing up to big fish. It's similar for spin casting — clunky and heavy. But accuracy is key, and getting the bait to the right spot is half the battle.

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With a steelhead on the end of the line, the work has just begun. They dart and jump, try to run for cover, or bolt downstream. An angler must learn to give line to avoid breaking off but also muscle the fish when conditions demand it.

A guide will have numerous setups ready for their client — rods rigged to fish at different depths, with a different style, or using different bait. Invariably you'll get hung up and snap off — that's 20 minutes lost to fishing if you're by yourself on the shore. But a good guide will just hand you another rigged up rod, and you're back at it.

The North Fork Nehalem is not for the uninitiated.

Rapids can become extremely dangerous at certain flows, and they have proven fatal in the past. That means few non-professionals even attempt to float it, cutting down the fishing pressure.

HOOKING UP

LANDING THE FISH

For those used to catching trout on their favorite river, trying to hook a steelhead can test your instincts. A quick reaction is key to hooking up with a wily trout, but steelhead need a little more patience, as they often nibble and nose at bait before chomping down.

Fish don’t count unless they make it to the boat, and a steelhead hooked is not a steelhead caught. Perhaps no other fish their size is as difficult to land — the varying river currents, holes and shelves, and places to break off all work to the fish’s advantage.

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additz has seen plenty of elk while oaring down the North Fork, and once a bobcat.

From the raft, it’s hard to believe that a state highway is no more than a short climb and walk away.

The river itself is stunningly beautiful. The North Fork Nehalem flows elegantly over bedrock, and the river’s relatively quick elevation drop flushes out gravel and dirt. It gives the water itself a sparkling green color, and the sharp, slippery chutes mean that only rafts or pontoons can make the journey intact.

It’s the waters Radditz targets — places that amateur, weekend worm- and flydrowners rarely reach. That’s where the professionals thrive, and Radditz and the river were at their best in late January.

We fell into a day of shockingly simple catching. That was mostly because of Radditz’s knowledge of the river, his varied equipment and his recommendation of where and how to fish. It required good casting and constant line mending, but when the bait swung naturally in front of a steelhead, there was a strike more often than not. On casts that were less than perfect, Radditz would often whisper, “Let it fish,” which meant not to reel in and abandon hope, but to let the bait float downstream and see what happened.

Sometimes that worked, too.

I was well aware that it is rarely that easy.

Steelhead are not hungry in January in the Nehalem. They eat eggs of their own species because those may have been fertilized by a competitor. Removing them from the ecosystem means less competition for their own offspring, should they be lucky enough to spawn successfully.

Anglers have similar concerns, though thankfully we don’t resort to cannibalism. But escaping from the crowds and cutting down on competition is a way to increase the odds of success. The North Fork Nehalem is harder to get to by car than more well-known North Coast rivers, its best holes are difficult to access by foot and hard to fish from shore, and rafting it can be dangerous and sometimes deadly.

If you make it to this spectacular stretch of water, you will be rewarded — whether the bite is on or not.

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A GOOD KOAN FOR FISHING ANYWHERE THROUGHOUT THE WEST IS USUALLY: THE FARTHER THE WALK, THE BETTER THE FISHING.

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PRESERVING THE PAST The call of history is strong in the Columbia-Pacific region and has given rise to a robust culture of historic preservation and restoration.

STORY BY ERICK BENGEL

A

storia, the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains, contains some of the best-preserved historic buildings in the Pacific Northwest — a distinction long-defended by residents. Downtown storefronts offer a snapshot of 1920s-era architecture, the constructed environment testifying to the resilience of the river community that rebuilt after the Great Astoria Fire of 1922. Along residential blocks, modern suburbia stands shoulder-to-shoulder with 100-year-old homes.

In recent decades, the city has been riding a great wave of preservation and restoration projects that have revived a group of local landmarks — from the Liberty Theater, one of the region’s most vibrant entertainment hubs, to the Astoria Column, a proud pillar on Coxcomb Hill. Nonprofit groups routinely rescue signature monuments, while property owners fix up Victorian cottages.

In the Columbia-Pacific region, people who adopt buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries face formidable challenges: They are not merely prolonging the aging process but waging a battle against the elements.

Battered by storms, pressed between hard rains and soggy, shifting earth, antique construction materials rot and disintegrate. Inch by inch, year after year, nature fights to reclaim the space — and preservationists fight to take it back.

Given everything involved in historic preservation — the investments of time, money, sweat, patience, and hope — why does anyone bother? A common answer: Preservationists hear the call of history.

Some of these ambitious projects are widely and instantly recognized; others quietly improve their surroundings without semaphoring their significance. And each one, in its own way, helps sustain a place on Earth where the past is present and lovingly maintained.

RIGHT: George C. Flavel commissioned this 4-bedroom, 2.5 bath, 4,644-square-foot home for him and his wife, Winona Callender, in 1901. It was designed by architect M. DeLin, who sometimes partnered with Joseph W. Suprenant, a prominent local contractor. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1986.

PHOTO BY JOHN GOODENBERGER

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c. 1901

PHOTO COURTESY CLATSOP COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

THE FLAVEL MANSION

T

The Flavel residence as it appeared in the 1920s.

he Flavels, a family whose generations span most of the town’s history, no longer live in Astoria, but their buildings are living reminders of their affluence and influence.

Today, the 116-year-old Flavel mansion, at Franklin Avenue and 15th Street in Astoria, is undergoing a gradual resurrection after more than two decades of neglect.

Marking the transition from the Victorian to the Colonial Revival period, the mansion was built in 1901 for Capt. George Conrad Flavel (1855–1923), the son of Capt. George Flavel, a well-known businessman and Columbia River bar pilot.

(George Flavel’s well-preserved Queen Anne-style house, built in 1886, is now Astoria’s Flavel House Museum, a community treasure and popular tourist draw on Eighth Street).

George Conrad’s granddaughter, Mary Louise Flavel (the last living Flavel); her brother, Harry; and their mother, Florence, abandoned the mansion in the early 1990s with the contents left inside. Sad, gray, and uninhabitable, the house still possessed a certain tragic beauty. But as it decayed on a lonely lot, some people feared the residential relic was destined for demolition.

When city officials entered the house in 2012 under a derelict building ordinance, they found enormous collections of newspapers, magazines, household objects, and garbage, which, combined with overgrown vegetation outside, may have posed a fire hazard.

Nevertheless, the building’s bones remained strong. After a protracted struggle with the city over fines, Mary Louise’s conservator sold the property in 2015 to Greg Newenhof, coowner of City Lumber Company in Astoria. Newenhof plans to keep it as his private residence.

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In the Columbia-Pacific region, people who adopt buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries face formidable challenges: They are not merely prolonging the aging process but waging a battle against the elements.

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PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

The 116-year-old Flavel mansion, at Franklin Avenue and 15th Street in Astoria, is undergoing a gradual resurrection after more than two decades of neglect.

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Greg Newenhof, owner of the Flavel home, is currently working to restore the house. He paid $221,901 in cash for the long-vacant mansion in 2015.

Newenhof shows a room in the historic home he is restoring.

The distinctive home often draws curious onlookers. David Schlicker Stained Glass Studios restored and reconstructed leaded glass windows broken by vandals or stolen by thieves.

The original windows were made by the Povey Bros., one of the most prolific and prestigious studios on the West Coast.

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

Intricate wood carvings decorate the top of solid-wood columns in the front foyer of the Flavel mansion.

With the Flavels’ belongings now cleared away, Newenhof has updated the electrical and plumbing, drywalled bedroom ceilings, and refurbished the stair balusters. The original mantle has been reinstated above the fireplace. A new gas furnace in the basement now heats the poorly insulated abode. Outside, he has built new front steps and back porch decking, rehung sections of siding, and replaced missing crown molding.

“I think it likes me working there, ’cause it hasn’t given me any troubles,” Newenhof said. “I haven’t seen any poltergeists or anything like that.”

The biggest challenges, Newenhof said, have been finding the time and finding the parts — not just locating the originals but ordering replacement parts, some of which must be custom made.

The house may be ready for him to move in this year, Newenhof said. But he believes he’ll be working on it for the rest of his life. “When I’m done, I’ll be dead.” >> Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 79

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OCEAN VIEW ABBEY

T

he Ocean View Abbey, a community mausoleum atop Warrenton’s Ocean View Cemetery, holds the remains of relatives from prominent North Coast families. Anyone familiar with the region will recognize names — Brix, Larson, Megler, and others — engraved on the interior marble walls.

The Egyptian Revival-inspired structure was designed by master Portland architect Ellis F. Lawrence and built in 1916 by the Portland Mausoleum Co., which pitched mausoleum burials as more sanitary for the earth, and more dignified for the deceased, than ground burials.

When the company went out of business, the upkeep of Ocean View Abbey began to suffer. The city of Astoria owns the cemetery, but families of the deceased own the mausoleum; the city’s parks department does routine maintenance on both.

In 2016, students from Clatsop Community College’s Historic Preservation & Restoration program, in partnership with the parks department, restored six of the original orange-and-yellow stained glass windows and reconstructed the cames holding them in place.

Though vandals had broken some windows, most of the glass was in good shape. Guided by the original drawings, the students disassembled and rebuilt them, using most of the glass already at hand, while documenting changes.

“The mantra in historic preservation is to preserve as much as possible of the original fabric of the building; so if you can preserve it, then do it,” Lucien Swerdloff, an instructor in the community college program, said.

Failing that, preservationists should attempt to use the same kind of materials. The cames that framed the glass panels, for example, had been badly corroded in the salty marine air and needed to be replaced. So, unable to use the original zinc, the class ordered new cames made from zinc, configured in a nearly identical design.

Future makeovers may include replacing the roof, buffing the doors, and addressing chunks of marble that have fallen from the walls, exposing the mortar that conceals the caskets.

After observing the mausoleum’s grim and grimy appearance, Carl Hagnas, a Warrenton resident who doesn’t even have family in there, decided, “I wanted to dress this place up.”

Hagnas spent hours touching up the inscribed names with gold flake paint, gathering vases, and assembling floral arrangements, and placing them reverently beside the tombs. >> 80 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

c. 1916

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The 101-year-old Egyptian Revival-inspired structure was designed by master Portland architect Ellis F. Lawrence and built by the Portland Mausoleum Co.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Ocean View Abbey Mausoleum in Warrenton was built in 1916 and designed by famed Oregon architect Ellis F. Lawrence, who also designed Knight Library, the Jordan Schintzer Museum of Art, and the McArthur Court basketball arena at the University of Oregon in Eugene, along with Mahonia Hall, the governor’s mansion in Salem.

Stained-glass expert Jim Hannen opens a transom on top of a window in the Ocean View Abbey. About 85 percent of the original stained glass was saved, with replcaement panes acquired from Kokomo Opalescent Glass Co. in Indiana.

Warrenton resident Carl Hagnas spent hours touching up the inscribed names with gold flake paint, gathering vases, and assembling floral arrangements, and placing them reverently beside the tombs inside the mausoleum.

Historic preservation student Hannah PhelpsGoodman demonstrates a new, operable window before installation.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BY EDWARD STRATTON 3, JOHN GOODENBERGER

‘The mantra in historic preservation is to preserve as much as possible of the original fabric of the building; so if you can preserve it, then do it.’

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c. 1912

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

QUARANTINE HOSPITAL

A

cross the Columbia River from Astoria, in Knappton Cove, Washington, stands the last surviving quarantine hospital, or “pesthouse,” on the West Coast — a site where infected and diseased seafarers were treated, isolated, and often died.

In 1891, the U.S. government, worried about the spread of communicable diseases, mandated that all immigrants undergo health inspections.

Between 1899 and 1938, the Columbia River Quarantine Station — nicknamed the river’s “Ellis Island” — received thousands of immigrants and mariners who came by ship. Each had to dock at a wharf (where only the pilings now remain) and pass a Marine Health Service inspection before setting foot on U.S. soil.

“It was homeland security, and the enemy was disease,” said Nancy Bell Anderson, whose 82 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

father, in 1950, bought the site when it was listed on the General Services Administration surplus.

When the station was built, typhus, smallpox, and cholera still threatened populations, and the bubonic plague was resurgent. “Some of the deaths are pretty gruesome,” Anderson said.

“Dying from the plague is something you don’t want to do.”

Anderson’s father, an avid outdoorsman, turned the station into a sport fishing camp, before Washington State Route 401 cut through the property. Though many buildings had been demolished, the pesthouse itself, built in 1912, remained — a remarkable feat, given that most quarantine hospitals were destroyed for public health reasons after being decommissioned.

“It’s this little building that you would drive past and never turn and look, but it’s super important,” said John Goodenberger, a local historian who teaches in the community college

program with Swerdloff.

The pesthouse, an architectural artifact of global significance, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. Anderson has preserved it as the Knappton Cove Heritage Center, an interpretive museum that highlights the region’s medical, maritime, and immigration history.

Over time, Clatsop Community College’s fledgling preservationists have reglazed the windows, repaired cracked plaster, and rebuilt the porches outside the four isolation rooms.

With grants, Anderson rebuilt the foundation and put on a new roof.

“The building has what they call ‘integrity.’ It has not been altered that much, because my dad never had enough money to do anything,” she said, laughing. “He did it himself. He was into repurposing before we even knew that was a word.” >>

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Between 1899 and 1938, the Columbia River Quarantine Station — nicknamed the river’s “Ellis Island” — received thousands of immigrants and mariners.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Columbia River Quarantine Station at Knappton Cove operated between 1899 and 1938, inspecting thousands of European and Asian immigrants. The former quarantine hospital is now the Knappton Cove Heritage Center.

PHOTO BY LUCIEN SWERDLOFF

Each of the four isolation wards at the historic Columbia River Quarantine Station hospital was accessed by an outside entry porch to isolate infected patients. Preservation students rebuilt the rotted porches in 2011.

The hospital building, called a “lazaretto,” which means “pesthouse,” is a special quarantine hospital built specifically for people who had infectious diseases. With a capacity of 20 patients, the building has a main entrance that leads to two large wards and four isolation wards in each corner of the building, accessible by separate exterior entrances.

The pesthouse, an architectural artifact of global significance, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in

PHOTO BY DANNY MILLER

1980.

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GENERATIONAL LABOR

PHOTO BY LUCIEN SWERDLOFF

The international Arts and Crafts movement that flourished from the late 1800s to the early 1900s emphasized a spiritual connection among the heart, soul, and hands, especially when they are engaged in a task.

“We have students that have had other professions, and they’re throwing away those professions to come and use their hands,” Goodenberger said.

Preservationists also speak of a spiritual connection to history itself, to a place that’s been here a long time. Saving aging buildings where their forebears lived and labored, preservationists ponder what the site has witnessed — joy and warmth at the Flavel family’s hearth, grief in the Ocean View Abbey, or pain and anguish in the quarantine hospital.

By taking charge of these buildings, the owners become part of its lineage and feel a responsibility to care for the little piece of the past that belongs to them. If they do their job properly, future preservationists will be able to imagine how today’s protectors of the past felt as they salvaged a bygone era’s durable materials — a stained glass window, perhaps, or a floor of old-growth wood — to keep history alive and in style.

In the unforgiving coastal climate, the task is always unfinished. A city’s original structures may be well-crafted, built to withstand the decades, but that’s no guarantee they will stand forever. Roofs warp, siding sloughs off, foundations settle, integrity is compromised. And once they’re gone, Goodenberger said, “We’re never going to get these buildings back.”

PHOTO BY LUCIEN SWERDLOFF

PHOTOS FROM TOP: In 2011, preservation students from Clatsop Community College rebuilt the main entry porch and the porches outside the four isolation rooms at the former Columbia River Quarantine Station hospital in Knappton Cove, Washington.

In 2016, students from Clatsop Community College’s Historic Preservation & Restoration program restored six of the original stained glass windows in the Ocean View Abbey Mausoleum in Warrenton, Oregon.

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On visits to the Columbia River estuary, you might not have to imagine. In the past two summers of 2016 and 2015, there were countless sightings of humpback plumes, pointy backs, and iconic tail flukes. Many have even been so lucky to be watching as whales have come pirouetting out of the Columbia like Winnebago-size trout.

SINGING GIANTS There’s something almost mythical about humpbacks. If they didn’t exist, our ancient storytellers would have made them up. They are the stuff of wildest imagination: Giant creatures with grooves in their vast gullets so as to swiftly slip through the sea, singing ethereal songs of freedom that endlessly echo through the black canyons of the fathomless deep.

What verve! Based on amateur videos taken in the Columbia during the summer of 2016, you can imagine them giggling like underwater schoolgirls before rocketing into the air just beside or behind a flabbergasted Buoy 10 fisherman. Staid scientists always caution us to resist attaching human-like emotions to wild animals, but what else can this be but sheer love of life? I’ve always wanted to be reborn as an otter, but the humpbacks are making me reconsider.

WATCH FOR SWIRLING BIRDS Nutritious anchovies, herring, and other little baitfish comprise an ever-moving feast for humpbacks and other species near the apex of the food pyramid. Vast schools of baitfish enter our rich estuary.

Herded into tight, spinning balls of life by swooping seabirds and darting seals and sea lions, their life-and-death dramas unfold before our eyes like National Geographic documentaries.

This churning storm of life is often the best sign humpbacks may be present on the incoming tide.

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A humpback whale breaches near the Astoria-Megler Bridge in September 2015. PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

If they didn’t exist, our ancient storytellers would have made them up.

They are the stuff of wildest imagination.

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ommenting on Columbia humpbacks last September, Washington coast playwright Joe Paliani said, “Beautiful.

Yesterday there was a ball of bait in that same area being mauled by sea lions. They battered the bait with their tails, and broke the water’s surface, attracting hundreds of hungry gulls and cormorants to that foaming surface, diving and eating the remains of the whacked baitfish struggling on the surface. An explosion of life and death bursting right before God and everyone else’s eyes, just a half mile offshore by the church.

The struggle went on and on…”

BY LAND AND SEA There have been some astounding encounters between recreational fishermen and curious leviathans out in the river, but most humpbacks are seen from U.S. Highway 101 near the north end of the Astoria-Megler Bridge. The whales also are often seen just north of the Hammond Marina and elsewhere

near where the river joins the sea. There even have been awesome sightings right in front of Astoria.

The past two summers and early autumns, they’ve probably been most often seen just south of the picturesque St. Mary’s Catholic Church at McGowan, Washington — also the site of the fascinating Middle Village/Station Camp Unit of Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. Another good place to stop and watch for whales is the park’s Dismal Nitch Unit just east of the Astoria-Megler Bridge’s north end. (Be careful to park safely and keep an eye out for distracted drivers while crossing the highway to the shoreline.)

Besides looking for signs of baitfish, another way to know humpbacks are around is to keep an eye open for their plumes, geysers of vapor that shoot a dozen feet into the air.

Spotting them the first few times will make you feel like stepping into Herman Melville’s Moby Dick. It will be a lifetime memory if your kids can shout, “Thar she blows!”

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This blue whale was photographed about 30 miles west of Ocean Park, Washington, in 2011. Though rarely seen — perhaps because they are here in winter and keep to deep waters far offshore — blue whales and slightly smaller fin whales are among this coast's most cherished wildlife. PHOTO COURTESY JOHN CALAMBOKIDIS/CASCADIA RESEARCH

ORCAS, GRAYS, AND MORE In recent years, we’ve learned Puget Sound’s three pods of Southern Resident Killer Whales spend months each spring hunting for Chinook salmon around the mouth of the Columbia. But you’ll need to be lucky indeed to spot them out in the unbounded ocean and in the miles-wide river.

They are occasionally witnessed from

Fort Stevens and Cape Disappointment state parks, where jetties jut out into the river’s biologically rich plume. Once in a while, orcas are spotted from charter fishing boats in the ocean, and less often from ocean-side homes.

Orca brains are five times larger than ours. Can those enormous brains discern the distant whispers of delicious Chinook

An orca mother and calf in the ocean west of Washington's Long Beach Peninsula. PHOTO COURTESY NOAA

salmon or precisely compute the date and place of a salmon run’s return after three years at sea? Does something like an airtraffic control screen play across an orca’s cerebral cortex, plotting the vectors of currents and tides and the flavor of the sea?

Do they experience ecstasy as the cold ocean massages their smooth, warm skin?

Are the deep, black ocean depths as lovely to them as a clear blue sky is to us?

One source says the Chinook Indian phrase for orcas was kakowan yaka pishak.

Altogether, a modern English translation might be “naughty whale,” which makes sense particularly for the Southern Resident Killer Whale pods that come down the coast from Puget Sound and specialize in hunting Chinook salmon. By one estimate, a pod eats 800,000 salmon a year. This would not have endeared them to coastal tribes.

Much more commonly, gray whales make their way up and down the West Coast each year — southbound to Baja California, Mexico from mid-December through January, and northbound from late-March to June. A few stay in the area year round. >>

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Volunteers Georgeann Silvermann and Richard Cook look out over the ocean for gray whales at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment State Park, Washington. Over a five-day period, Saturday to Wednesday, volunteers at the center count whales that pass by. PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

Mark your calendars: Whale Watching Spoken Here is offered Saturday, March 25 through Friday, March 31 this year at 26 sites along the Oregon Coast. Learn more at whalespoken.org

Social media tip: Columbia River whale fans post up-to-date information on the Facebook page Clatsop & Pacific County Whale Sightings. Join the group for quick personal guidance about where and when whales are being seen.

Left: An orca splashes in the waters of the Columbia River plume with Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in the distance. Orcas from Puget Sound's famous J, K and L pods are frequent visitors to the mouth of the Columbia, where they hunt for Chinook salmon. Other orcas from elsewhere around the North Pacific Ocean also spend time here. PHOTO COURTESY NOAA

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A humpback whale spouts near the Astoria-Megler Bridge in September 2015. PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

ach year during the peak migrations — the week between Christmas and New Year and the last week of March — the Whale Watching Spoken Here program offers assisted whale watching at 26 sites along the coast. Local sites manned by volunteers include the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in Cape Disappointment State Park in Ilwaco, Washington; Ecola State Park in Cannon Beach, Oregon; and the Neahkahnie Mountain Historic Marker Turnout on U.S. Highway 101 near Manzanita, Oregon.

Grays are most often spotted thanks to their plumes as they swim along the shoreline like contented dairy cows. While humpbacks leap for joy, gray whales merely breathe in and out, their salty exhalations like the exhaust from

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some sleepy seaside cavern where enchanted sailors never awake. For more information about gray whales and spotting tips, check out visittheoregoncoast.com/whale-watching Researchers fairly often see fin whales — the world’s second largest species — in deeper waters well offshore from the Columbia’s mouth. But six years ago scientists got a lifetime thrill when they found six gigantic blue whales grazing above this vast undersea canyon 30 miles due west of the Long Beach Peninsula.

“On the wow-factor scale, it’s a big wow,” a Washington state biologist said.

For experts and ordinary boaters alike, blue whales are easy to identify. Blues can reach more than 100 feet in length and weigh as much as 400,000 pounds, or up to twice as

large as the biggest dinosaur. An old photo shows a dead blue whale occupying three entire railroad flatcars. An adult’s heart alone weighs 1,300 pounds, heavy as a great white shark.

These endangered leviathans, thought to be the largest animals to have existed since the dawn of time, weren’t known to spend much time in local waters.

“This is the most blue whales we know of ever being sighted off Washington and only the third confirmed sighting in the last 50 years,” said John Calambokidis, research biologist with Cascadia Research. It’s still unknown whether blue whales are expanding their range into this area, or if they are customarily here every winter, in plain sight in the raging deep-blue ocean.

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF PACIFIC WHALING

TRIBAL TRADITIONS

Yankee whalers had a devastating impact on Pacific marine mammals, cleaning out one pocket of whales, seals and otters after another. Impacts multiplied after the great Northwest coast whaling grounds were discovered in 1838, according to “A History of the American Whale Fishery,” (1907) by Walter Sheldon Tower.

When highly lucrative Arctic whaling began in 1848, whalers started to be based on this side of the continent, mostly out of California. With the arrival of railroads after the Civil War, San Francisco in effect became the nation’s whaling capital, as whale oil from the far north could be landed there and then quickly shipped by rail to the East.

(As an aside, the presence of Northern whaling ships led to the Pacific Coast’s only nautical involvement in the Civil War, when the CSS Shenandoah cruised into high Arctic waters, capturing many whalers. Unaware of Lee’s surrender on April 9, 1865, the Shenandoah fired the last shots of the war in the Bering Sea off the coast of Alaska between June 22 and 28, 1865.)

Smaller operations continued into the 20th century, including, for example, the American Pacific Whaling Co., which wintered in Meydenbauer Bay on Lake Washington, now part of Bellevue.

Locally, Bioproducts Inc. of Oregon whaled out of Warrenton, harvesting about 13 whales — including two humpbacks — between 1960 and 1965. The meat was sold to feed chickens and fur-farm mink. For reasons that are no longer easy to discern, NASA had some use for lubricating oil in the Mercury space program, but most was sold to the Mt. Hood Soap Co. The son of one participant recalled that ground whale meat tasted just like hamburger.

These bone darts from an archaeological site in Seaside have been cited as evidence for whale hunting by Clatsop Indians in pre-European settlement times. PHOTO COURTESY SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTE

On the U.S. West Coast, the Makah Tribe on the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula is best known for a whaling tradition, one which they’ve sought to revive in recent years as an essential attribute of their culture.

Here around the mouth of the Columbia, there is less of an oral recollection of whaling. Charles Cultee of Bay Center, Washington, one of the last handful of surviving native speakers of the Chinook language, in 1890 told ethnologist Franz Boas of whaling traditions.

But they primarily appear to involve harvesting whales that became stranded on beaches or washed ashore still fresh enough to scavenge.

Among the Clatsop Tribe on the south side of the river, for instance, Cultee reported there was a routine practice of always carrying knives, straps and, mats to be ready in case a whale became available — suggesting it happened fairly often. A large piece of whale meat was valuable enough to trade for a blanket.

Sadly, it is easy to imagine that local Indian populations had been so decimated that local whale-hunting practices had been forgotten before anyone sought their recollections.

In a 2014 paper for the University of Washington, Kayla Krantz wrote, “The archaeological site of Par-Tee in Seaside, Oregon has, over the course of excavations here in the 1960s-70s, yielded certain key finds and pieces of evidence leading to an interesting debate surrounding potential whale hunting at this site, a site located well beyond the location of other archaeologically known areas for indigenous whaling.”

Pacific Steam Whaling Co., based in San Francisco, was one of several firms that made a fortune hunting whales in the North Pacific, Bering Sea, and Arctic Ocean in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Whale blubber was rendered into valuable oil, and whale bones and baleen were used for a wide array of purposes in the pre-plastics era — everything from ladies' corsets to chimney-sweep brushes.

Setting aside the amusing coincidence that a Seaside archaeological site is called “Par-Tee,” Krantz goes on to say, “The most compelling piece of evidence from the site, dubbed ‘a smoking gun’ by those enthusiastic about the idea that whaling was practiced in Oregon, is a humpback whale phalange deeply embedded with an elk bone point.” Analysis found the artifact dates between AD 650 and 950.

Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 93

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Astoria-Warrenton region Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchantss and places to stay on Our Coast. Click o on a map button to find contact info and links for that pl at location, for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to tion ti on,, plus our recommendations fo o do.

1. F Fort Stevens State Park — 100 Ridge Road, Hammond PACIFIC

2. F Fort to Sea Trail — Fort Clatsop to Sunset Beach 3. F Fort Clatsop — 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Astoria

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Region in detail

CLATSOP CLATSO

Astoria Aquatic Center — 1997 Marine Drive, Astoria 8. A County Heritage Museum — 16th and Exchange streets, Astoria 9. Clatsop C 10. F Fort Astoria — 15th and Exchange streets, Astoria 10 Liberty Theater — 1203 Commercial St., Astoria 11. L

TILLAMOO TILLAMOOK

12.. O Oregon Film Museum — 732 Duane St., Astoria 12 Flavel House — 441 Eighth St., Astoria 13. F 14.. M Maritime Memorial Park — 200 W. Marine Drive, Astoria 14

Fort Stevens State Park

Liberty Theater 2016 marked the 90th anniversary of the Astoria Column. mn. mn.

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FORT COLUMBIA STATE PARK

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Long Beach Peninsula Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to o stay on Our Coast. Click on a map earby dining, lodging and tthings to do. button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby

PACIF PACIFIC

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Region in detail

CLATSOP

1.

Leadbetter Point State Park — Ocean Park, Wash., 19 miles north of Seaview

2.

World Kite Museum — 303 S.W. Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, Wash.

3.

Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum — 115 Lake St. S.E., Ilwaco, Wash.

4.

Port of Ilwaco — 165 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco, Wash.

5.

Knappton Cove Heritage Center — two miles past the rest stop north of the Astoria Bridge on Washington state Route 401

6.

Fort Columbia State Park — U.S. Highway 101, two miles west of the Astoria Bridge in Chinook, Wash.

7.

North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse — within Cape Disappointment State Park

8.

Cape Disappointment State Park — two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash.

9.

Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center — Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash.

10. Discovery Trail — Ilwaco to north end of Long Beach, Wash.

TILLAMOOK

11. Cranberry Museum — 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash.

12. Willapa Interpretive Art Trail — near Refuge Headquarters in Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 13. Appelo Archive Center — 1056 state Route 4, Naselle, Wash.

Kites soar over Long Beach Peninsula

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G to discoverourcoast.com to Go explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a button to find contact info and map b links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby mend dining, lodging and things to do. dinin

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3/2/17

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1. Ecola State Park — off U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach

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2. Hug Point State Recreation Site — 5 miles south of Cannon Beach

TATE ARCADIA BEACH ST STATE RECREATION REATION SITE

3. Oswald West State Park — U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach

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A couple enjoys a bicycle ride in Seaside Gearhart Lane Hillila Road

N. Marion Avenue

Summit Avenue

N. Cottage Avenue

GEARHART GOLF LINKS

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Go to dis discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractio restaurants, merchants and places to stay on attractions, Coa Click on a map button to find contact info and Our Coast. links fo for that location, plus our recommendations for a n day ttrip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

C PACIFIC

G Street Seaside Municipal Airport

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Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group

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r i a F UNTY

OP CO CLATS

O

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URGENT CARE

Enjoy brain wave surfing.

When you need help and it can’t wait, come to us.

Columbia Memorial Hospital has two Urgent Care clinics and a top-notch Emergency Department.

CMH Urgent Care: • Works with most insurances, including Medicare and Medicaid.

• Provides on-site lab and x-ray services.

• Cares for people of all ages.

In Warrenton, Daily, 9am6:30pm 1639 SE Ensign Ln, Warrenton 503-338-4500

opb.org 100 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

In Astoria, M-F, 9am-6:30pm, Sa, 9am-5:30pm 2265 Exchange St., Astoria 503-338-4050

Emergency Care Open anytime 2111 Exchange St., Astoria, 503-325-4321

Our Coast Magazine 2017:OC2017

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Visit seasidechamber.com to see our Membership Directory, Lodging Guide, Live Web Cams and Events Calendar • March 18 - Pouring at the Coast Craft Beer Festival pouringatthecoast.com • July 4 - Fireworks Show and Community events seasidechamber.com • August 10-13 - Seaside Beach Volleyball seasidebeachvolleyball.com • Yuletide in Seaside - Pacific Power Parade of Lights & Community Tree Lighting (Nov. 24), Gift Fair (Nov. 24-26)

503.738.6391 • seasidechamber.com

Your partner in health Providence Health & Services provides essential hospital and clinical services to people of all ages on the north coast.

Providence Seaside Hospital is a critical access hospital with full accreditation by the Joint Commission that offers primary and specialty care, birth center with family suites, general surgery, radiology, diagnostic imaging, pathology and emergency medicine 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

It incorporates advanced technologies and implements the latest medical practices, including telemedicine and telehospitalists. Providence Express Care Virtual lets you connect with a physician in a live video session from your tablet, smartphone or computer, offering specialty care not readily available here on the coast.

Residents along the north coast also have access to family practice and internal medicine with doctors and care providers at clinics in Seaside, Warrenton and Cannon Beach, and at heart clinics in Astoria, Seaside and Ilwaco, Wash. We also offer a full continuum of therapy, rehabilitation and home health services.

Our goal is to create healthier communities together.

Where work... meets play Contact Gretchen Darnell to discover what Seaside has to offer. gdarnell@seasideconvention.com · 800.394.3303 · seasideconvention.com

Locations: • Providence Seaside Hospital 725 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7000 • Providence Medical Group-Seaside with walk-in availability from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.

727 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7060 • Providence Medical Group-Cannon Beach 171 N. Larch, Suite 16, Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-717-7400 • Providence Medical Group-Warrenton 171 S. Highway 101, Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-6500 Learn more at Providence.org/northcoast

Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 101

our coast advertiser index

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www.opwa.com

FAMILY, COMMUNITY & CIVIC ORGANIZATIONS

ANIMAL SHELTERS

DAY SPA

Clatsop Animal Assistance..................104 1315 SE 19th Street P.O. Box 622 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-7387 • (503) 861-0737 www.dogsncats.org

Spa at Cannery Pier Hotel ...................104 No. 10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-4772 www.cannerypierhotel.com/spa

ANTIQUES

Klemp Family Dentistry.......................104 1006 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0116 www.klempfamilydentistry.com

Seaside Chamber of Commerce.........101 7 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com

Jeffrey Leinassar, DMD, FAGD.............103 1414 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0310 www.smileastoria.com

Seaside Civic and Convention Center..101 415 First Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8585 www.seasideconvention.com

Phog Bounders Antique Mall .............104 892 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-0101 www.phogbounders.com

APARTMENTS Emerald Heights Apartments, LLC.......12 1 Emerald Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8221 www.emeraldheightsapartments.com

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Astor Street Opry ....................................47 129 Bond Street Union Town Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6104 www.astorstreetoprycompany.com Astoria Art Loft........................................25 106 Third Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4442 www.astoriaartloft.com Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival ............................103 P.O. Box 34 Astoria, OR 97103 www.astoriascanfest.com Clatsop County Historical Society......108 P.O. Box 88 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2203 www.cumtux.org Coaster Theatre Playhouse....................13 108 North Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-3602 www.coastertheatre.com Friends of Old Fort Stevens...................12 P.O. Box 138 Hammond, OR 97121 (503) 861-1470 www.visitftstevens.com Liberty Theater........................................85 1203 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5922 www.liberty-theater.org Long Beach Razor Clam Festival ..........75 Long Beach, WA 98631 www.longbeachrazorclamfestival.com

DENTISTS

EDUCATION Clatsop Community College.................39 1651 Lexington Avenue Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-2411 www.clatsopcc.edu

(continued) Seaside Carousel Mall ............................19 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com

Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce..........................31 916 W. First Street South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 942-5419 www.willapaharbor.org

HEALING ARTS THERAPY FAMILY, COMMUNITY & CIVIC ORGANIZATIONS Astoria Parks & Recreation....................19 1997 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7027 www.astoriaparks.com Astoria Sunday Market........................105 Downtown on 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1010 www.astoriasundaymarket.com Astoria/Warrenton Chamber of Commerce..........................25 111 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6311 • (800) 875-6807 www.oldoregon.com City of Rockaway Beach.........................30 276 Hwy 101 South Rockaway Beach, OR 97136 (503) 355-2291 www.rockawaybeachor.us City of Seaside Visitors Bureau...........106 989 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3097 • (888) 306-2326 www.SeasideOR.com Clatsop County Fairgrounds...............100 92937 Walluski Loop Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4600 www.clatsopfairgrounds.com Friends of the Astoria Column..............64 1 Coxcomb Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2963 www.astoriacolumn.org

Sharon Hartley......................................105 1309 Ocean Beach Boulevard #120 Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 269-0307

Columbia River Maritime Museum.....2,3 1792 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2323 www.crmm.org

Boreas Bed & Breakfast Inn.................105 607 Ocean Beach Boulevard N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-8069 www.boreasinn.com

Cranberry Museum & Gift Shop ...........64 2907 Pioneer Road Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5553 www.cranberrymuseum.com

Columbia Inn ...........................................31 495 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4211 www.columbiainnastoria.com

Garibaldi Maritime Museum ..............105 112 Highway 101 Garibaldi, OR 97118 (503) 322-8411 www.garibaldimuseum.org

Gearhart by the Sea................................39 1157 N. Marion Gearhart, OR 97138 (800) 547-0115 www.gearhartresort.com

Clatsop Care Memory Center................31 2219 SE Dolphin Avenue Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 717-3659 www.clatsopcare.org

McMenamins Gearhart Hotel...............38 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/gearharthotel

Ocean Beach Hospital............................38 1st Avenue North Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3181 www.oceanbeachhospital.com Providence Seaside Hospital..............101 725 S. Wahanna Road Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-7000 www.providence.org/northcoast Urgent Care NW – Astoria .....................30 2120 Exchange Street, #111 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0333 www.urgentcarenwastoria.com

LODGING & TRAVEL Astoria Crest Motel.................................64 5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com

Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau...................................40, 49 3914 Pacific Way Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2400 www.funbeach.com

Astoria Rivershore Motel.......................12 59 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2921 www.rivershoremotel.com

Wiegardt Studio Gallery ........................31 2607 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-5976 www.ericwiegardt.com

Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce..........................24 1715 E. Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (888) 751-9354

Astoria Riverwalk Inn.............................49 400 Industry Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2013 www.astoriariverwalkinn.com

(continued)

Best Western Ocean View Resort .......105 414 N. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3334 www.bestwestern.com/seaside

HEALTH CARE

Columbia Memorial Hospital .............100 2111 Exchange St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4321 www.columbiamemorial.org

MUSEUMS

Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum ....64 P.O. Box 153 115 Lake Street Southeast Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3446 www.columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org

Inn at Seaside ..........................................48 441 2nd Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 (800) 699-5070 • (503) 738-9581 www.innatseaside.com

Peninsula Arts Association....................49 P.O. Box 321 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 705-5233 www.beachartist.org

102 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

LODGING & TRAVEL (continued) Atomic Motel...........................................40 131 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4051 www.astoriamotel.com

Oceanside Vacation Rentals..................31 43 N. Holladay Seaside, OR 97138 (800) 840-7764 • (503) 738-7767 www.oceanside1.com Rivertide Suites Hotel ..........................105 102 N. Holladay Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1100 www.rivertidesuites.com Shelburne Inn .........................................63 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 (800) 466-1896 • (360) 642-2442 www.shelburneinn.com Shilo Inns..................................................30 30 N. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-9571 900 S. Holladay Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-0549 1609 E. Harbor Street Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-2181

Lost Art of Nursing Museum.................25 3285 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (301) 208-8060 www.pronurse.com Marsh’s Free Museum ............................18 409 Pacific Way S. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2188 www.marshsfreemuseum.com Northwest Carriage Museum ...............19 314 Alder Street Raymond, WA 98577 (360) 942-4150 www.nwcarriagemuseum.org World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame.....19 303 Sid Snyder Drive West Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com

NATIONAL PARKS Lewis & Clark National Historical Park .........................................13 92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 861-2471 www.fortclatsopbookstore.com

PUBLIC BROADCASTING Oregon Public Broadcasting...............100 7140 SW Macadam Portland, OR 97219 (503) 445-1874 www.opb.org

RADIO STATIONS Coast Community Radio........................11 1445 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0010 www.coastradio.org

www.shiloinns.com The Anchorage Cottages.....................100 2209 Ocean Beach Boulevard North Long Beach, WA 98631 (800) 642-2351 www.TheAnchorageCottages.com

MUSEUMS Cannon Beach History Center & Museum..............................................105 1387 South Spruce Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9301 www.cbhistory.org

REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION Cascade Sotheby’s International Realty ....6,7 587 Pacific Way Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 738-5100 467 Laneda Avenue Manzanita, OR 97130 (503) 368-6609 650 SW Bond Street Bend, OR 97702 (541) 383-7600 www.cascadesothebysrealty.com

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RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE

RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE

RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE

REATAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING

(continued)

(continued)

(continued)

(continued)

(continued)

Discovery Coast Real Estate ..................11 1711 Pacific Avenue S Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3325 www.discoverycoastrealestate.com

Camp 18 Restaurant...............................39 42362 Highway 26 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 755-1818 www.camp18restaurant.com

Pelican Brewery & Tap Room................57 1708 1st Street Tillamook, OR 97141 (503) 842-7007 www.pelicanbrewing.com

The Beach Club Tavern.........................105 14 N. Downing Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1134 www.facebook.com/beachclubtav

Astoria Cooperative Grocery...................5 1355 Exchange Street, Suite 1 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0027 www.astoria.coop/

Lighthouse Realty...................................63 710 Pacific Avenue S. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4461 www.lighthouseproperty.com

Coffee Girl.................................................65 100 39th Street, Suite 2 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6900 www.thecoffeegirl.com

Pelican Brewing Company ....................57 1371 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 908-3377 www.pelicanbrewing.com

Pacific Realty ...........................................85 102 NE Bolstad Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3127 www.pacreal.com

Doogers Seafood & Grill ........................38 900 S. Pacific Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4224

Seaside Fultano's ....................................25 215 Broadway Street Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-5612 www.fultanos.com/seaside-fultano-s.html

The Pelican Pub & Tap Room ................57 33180 Cape Kiwanda Drive Pacific City, OR 97135 (503) 965-7007 www.pelicanbrewing.com Twisted Fish Steak House......................25 311 S. Broadway Street Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3467 www.twistedfishsteakhouse.com

Beach Books ..........................................105 616 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3500 www.beachbooks37.com Bruce’s Candy Kitchen............................39 256 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503) 436-2641

Finn's Fish House.....................................25 227 Broadway Street Seaside, OR 97103 (503) 738-8330 www.finnsfishhouse.com

Seasonal Seafoods..................................31 306 Dike Road Bay Center, WA 98527 (888) 905-9079 www.baycenterfarms.com

RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE

Gearhart Bowl & Fultano's Pizza ..........25 3518 Hwy 101 North Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 738-5333 www.gearhartbowl.com

Shelburne Inn, Restaurant & Pub.........63 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 (800) 466-1896 • (360) 642-2442 www.shelburneinn.com

4 Seasons Clothing...............................100 1405 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8200

Cannon Beach Florist, Basketcase .....105 123 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2106 • (800) 611-5826 www.cannonbeachflorist.com

Bell Buoy...................................................12 1800 S, Roosevelt Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-2722 • (800) 529-2722 www.bellbuoyofseaside.com

Hungry Harbor Grille..............................38 313 Pacific Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5555 www.hungryharbor.com

Street 14 Coffee.......................................47 1410 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5511 www.street14coffee.com

A Gypsy Whimsy .....................................12 1130 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-4871

Cannon Beach Leather...........................65 239 N, Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-0208

Bridgewater Bistro..................................38 20 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6777 www.bridgewaterbistro.com

McMenamins Sandtrap .........................38 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/648-sand-trap-pub-menus

Sweet Basils Café ....................................39 271 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1539 www.cafesweetbasils.com

Active Enterprises, Inc............................64 1318 Pacific Avenue North Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2102 www.propanelongbeach.com

City Lumber .............................................85 2142 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4511 www.citylumber.com

Rich McQuerry.........................................64 Anchor Realty 31605 I Street #B Ocean Park, WA 98640 (503) 318-3816 www.longbeachwarealestate.com

t s a co

k e weend .com

503-325-0310

www.smileastoria.com

JEFFREY M. LEINASSAR, DMD, FAGD

NEW PATIENTS WELCOME Emergencies Welcome

• Co n ven ien t a ppo in tm en ts before or after w ork or sch ool • G en tle, tru stin g & ca rin g dentist • Affo rd a b le, n a tu ra l-a ppea rin g

GUIDE

to art, food, entertainment and fun

www.brucescandy.com

1414 Marine Dr. • Astoria

ASTORIA MIDSUMMER SCANDINAVIAN FESTIVAL June 16-18 | Astoria, OR

Ava ila b le fo rCru ise Sh ip G u ests

Your local

REATAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING

Seaside Outlet Mall Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7828

OF HERITAGE, TRADITION, FAMILY, FOOD AND FUN

• Live Scandinavian music, dancing and plays • Traditional Scandinavian foods

50

TH

SPECIAL

• Handcrafted Scandinavian import items • And more!

EVENTS FOR OUR

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION! Featured Entertainers: Harald Haugaard and Helene Blum Award Winning Danish Folk Artists

dentistry • Fu ll Service D en tistry Accredited member of the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry® — Committed to Excellence.

www.AstoriaScanFest.com Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 103

our coast advertiser index

REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION

2:33 PM

our coast advertiser index

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REATAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING (continued)

REATAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING (continued)

REATAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING (continued)

RV PARKS & CAMPGROUNDS

Clatsop Power Equipment .......................................75 34912 Hwy 101 Business Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0792 www.clatsoppower.stihldealer.net

Jonathan’s LTD............................................................39 332 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7600

Tempo Gallery ............................................................65 1271 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0763

Westgate Cabins & RV Park......................................64 20803 Pacific Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4211 www.vacationwestgate.com

Luminari Arts..............................................................65 1133 Commercial St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0308

The Farmacy ...............................................................75 2911 Marine Drive #B Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3276 thefarmacy420.com

Cleanline Surf Shop...................................................13 60 N. Roosevelt Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7888 171 Sunset Blvd.

Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9726 www.cleanlinesurf.com Dennis Company .......................................................75 201 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3166 www.denniscompany.com Forsythea Home & Garden ....................................105 1124 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2189 Golden Whale Jewelry, Inc. ...................................105 194 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1166 Homespun Quilts.......................................................64 108 10th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3300 www.homespunquilt.com Imogen Gallery ..........................................................49 240 11th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0620 www.imogengallery.com Jacks Country Store...................................................41 Corner of Pacific Hwy & Bay Avenue 26006 SR 103 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4989 www.jackscountrystore.com

Maggie & Henry .........................................................39 172 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1718 • (877) 511-5752 www.maggieandhenry.com Maiden Astoria...........................................................63 255 14th Street Astoria, OR 97103 www.maidenastoria.com Phillips Candies..........................................................25 217 Broadway Street Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-5402 www.phillipscandies.com Ratz & Co. ....................................................................63 260 10th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2035 www.ratzandcompany.com RiverSea Gallery.........................................................65 1160 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1270 www.riverseagallery.com Seaside Carousel Mall ...............................................19 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com Seaside Outlets ........................................................107 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1603 www.seasideoutlets.com

The Herons Nest Gifts................................................40 405 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8854 www.facebook.com/TheHeronsNestGifts The Wine Shack ..........................................................49 124 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1100 www.beachwine.com Video Horizons.........................................................105 750 Astor Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7310 www.videohorizons.formovies.com Walter E Nelson................................................100,105 2240 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6362

RV PARKS & CAMPGROUNDS Andersen's Oceanside RV Park & Cottages...................................................................65 1400 138th Street Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2231 www.andersensrv.com Driftwood RV Park .....................................................49 1512 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (888) 567-1902 www.driftwood-rvpark.net

our coast

(continued)

SPORTS & RECREATION Clatsop Paddle Company .........................................19 Mobile business info@clatsoppaddle.com (503) 791-9619 www.clatsoppaddle.com Drake Radditz Guide Service ...................................75 88854 Dellmoor Loop Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 449-4886 www.fishwithdrake.com Gearhart Bowl & Fultano's Pizza .............................25 3518 Hwy 101 North Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 738-5333 www.gearhartbowl.com Gearhart Golf Links....................................................38 1157 N. Marion Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 738-3538 www.gearhartgolflinks.com Highlife Adventures ..................................................25 92111 High Life Road Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-9875 www.highlife-adventures.com NW Women’s Surf Camps .........................................13 P.O. Box 425 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 440-5782 www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com Port of Ilwaco................................................................4 165 Howerton Avenue Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3143 www.portofilwaco.com

BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Animal Shelters

Antiques

Day Spas

Dentists

CLATSOP ANIMAL ASSISTANCE

PHOG BOUNDERS ANTIQUE MALL

MASSAGE, FACIALS, BODY TREATMENTS

KLEMP FAMILY DENTISTRY

Adopt your new best friend at the Clatsop County Animal Shelter!

55+Vendors Antiques • Nautical Items Glassware • Vintage Decor

1315 SE 19th St., Warrenton

503-861-7387 • 503-861-0737 www.dogsncats.org Open 12-4 pm, Tues-Sat Follow us on

892 Marine Drive, Astoria OR 97103

• Authentic Finnish sauna • Mineral therapy hot tub • Gift certificates available NO.10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103

503-338-4772

(503) 338-0101

Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

MORE THAN JUST ANTIQUES!

CANNERYPIERHOTEL.COM

104 • Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com

W e h elp keep fam ilies sm ilin g!

To ta l D en ta l Excellen ce C o m e and see h o w co m fo rtab le d entistry can really b e...

1006 West Marine Drive, Astoria (503) 468-0116 www.klempfamilydentistry.com

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Healing Arts

Health Care

Lodging

storia SUNDAY MARKET

A vailable for all of your routine healthcare needs, not just for em ergency situations!

ASTORIA SUNDAY MARKET

We are open 7 days a week from 9am to 7pm

EVERY SUNDAY May 14th thru Oct. 8th, 2017 12th Street Historic Downtown 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

2120 Exchange Street, Suite 111

BEST WESTERN OCEAN VIEW RESORT Ocean Front Ocean View Pet Friendly Kitchenettes Suites Hot Tub Rooms Available

503-325-0333

www.oceanviewresort.com 414 N Prom, Seaside 503-738-3334 • 800-234-8439

WWW.ASTORIASUNDAYMARKET.COM

Yoga • Reiki • Music available on-site

Lodging

Lodging

Museums

Museums

BOREAS BED AND BREAKFAST INN

RIVERTIDE SUITES HOTEL SEASIDE

CANNON BEACH HISTORY CENTER AND MUSEUM

GARIBALDI MARITIME MUSEUM

Seattle KING5 TV Evening Magazine’s “Top 5 Best B&B” since 2009 • Spectacular Ocean Views • Five Romantic Suites • Private Hot Tub By The Dunes • Gourmet Breakfast Included • Concierge Service

Seaside’s Only All-Suite Hotel Riverfront Downtown Full Kitchens, Jetted Tubs Cont. Breakfast, Indoor Pool

BOREASINN.COM

102 N. Holladay Dr., Seaside, Or. 503-717-1100 www.rivertidesuites.com

Restaurants/Food/Beverages

Retailers/Shopping

607 Ocean Beach Boulevard N. Long Beach, WA 98631

360-642-8069 • 888-642-8069

www.urgentcarenwastoria.com

Experience Cannon Beach’s Unique History With...

• Interactive Exhibits • • Acoustic Series • • Engaging Lectures • • Gift Shop & More! • • Home to original Cannon of Cannon Beach • 1387 S. Spruce, Cannon Beach 503-436-9301 • www.cbhistory.org

Retailers/Shopping

Preserving the Maritime Heritage RI WKH 3DFLÀ F 1RUWKZHVW Focusing on Captain Robert Gray and his historical vessels

112 Hwy 101, Garibaldi, Oregon (503)322-8411 Open April through October, 10 am to 4 pm (Weekends in March & November), Gift Shop

garibaldimuseum.org

Retailers/Shopping

F o r s y t h e a home & garden ARTS

◊ Locally Owned and

THE BEACH CLUB Coldest Beer in Town, Pool Tables, Oregon Lottery, Horse Shoe Pits during Summer, Friendy Atmosphere, Covered Smokong Area

14 N. Downing, Seaside (503)717-1134

Hours: 11:30am to 1:30am Daily Follow us on Facebook Retailers/Shopping

Operated for 11 years

◊ Author Events in the Loft ◊ Book Clubs-Book

Recommendations ◊ Special Orders-Shop online with us 24/7! ◊ Much more than just books; Journals, Cards, Puzzles and Art Supplies

CANNON BEACH FLORIST Your beach destination wedding specialist CALL FOR FREE CONSULTATION Conveniently located in downtown Cannon Beach

123 S. Hemlock • Cannon Beach

503-436-2106

www.cannonbeachflorist.com

FORSYTHEA HOME & GARDEN ARTS •artisan decor & garden ornament •traditional children’s toys 1124 Commercial St., Astoria 97103 Find us on

503-325-2189

Open Mon.- Sat. 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Sunday 12 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

616 Broadway, Seaside • 503.738.3500 www.beachbooks37.com

LOCAL FLORIST • LOCAL FLOWERS LOCAL SERVICE

WHERE NATURE & ART COLLIDE IN DECOR THAT WILL REFRESH & COMFORT

Retailers/Shopping

Retailers/Shopping

Travel

ourMOBILE coast GOLDEN WHALE JEWELRY Bridal • Gemstones • Silver Gold • Navaho • Earrings 14kt Gold & Sterling Charms Quality jewelry in gold and sterling silver by nationally known artists

194 N. Hemlock • Cannon Beach (503)436-1166 • (800)548-3918 OPEN DAILY If you are looking for something unique, Visit the Golden Whale

“O ld sch oolvideos” a live a n d w ellin A storia D V D /Blu -R ay/V H S/ V id eo G am es O ver 30,000 titles to rent!

O ver 1000 titles on sale u nd er $10!

L ocally ow ned and operated for over 30 years 750 A ST O R ST , A ST O R IA 503-325-7310 V ID EO H O R IZO N S.FO R M O V IES.C O M L ik e u s on Facebook forn ew release u pdates an d daily specials!

WALTER E. NELSON CO. Formerly at 1055 Marine Drive Astoria Janitor & Paper Supply is NOW KNOWN ASWalter E Nelson Co. Janitorial & Paper Supplies 2240 Commercial Street - Millpond Area Astoria 503-325-6362 • 800-344-1943 YOUR LOCAL JANITORIAL & PAPER SUPPLY STORE

On any device, visitors can tap into the interactive tools they need for great stay.

discoverourcoast.com

Our Coast 2017 • discoverourcoast.com • 105

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HOW TO BIKE SEASIDE Feeling relaxed? Take a leisurely ride along the Prom.

Feeling chatty? Gather up your friends and rent a surrey.

Feeling adventurous? Ride any of the 11 scenic trails in and around the hills above town.

Feeling famished? Get some fresh seafood and a craft beer.

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

seasideOR.com

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UVQTGU o ĭı īCTMKPI o ġTGG ĞQWRQP ĝQQM

YYY UGCUKFGQWVNGVU EQO t 503.717.1603 ģKIJYCě VJ ĜXG ĮGCUKFG ĪTGIQP ĝĜįģ ĝĪğĴ IJĪĭĦĮ o ĝĪĪĦ IJĜĭĠģĪİĮĠ o ĝĭİĞĠlĮ ĞĜĩğĴ ĦĤįĞģĠĩ o ĞĜĭįĠĭlĮ o ĞģĭĤĮįĪīģĠĭ ĝĜĩĦĮ o ĞħĜĤĭĠlĮ o ğĜĤĮĴ ĨĜĴlĮ ĮĜĩğIJĤĞģ ĮģĪī o ğĭĠĮĮ ĝĜĭĩ ğĭĠĮĮ ĝĜĭĩ IJĪĨĠĩ o ĠğğĤĠ ĝĜİĠĭ o ġĜĨĪİĮ ġĪĪįIJĠĜĭ ĪİįħĠį o GNC o ģĠħħĴ ģĜĩĮĠĩ o KITCHEN ĞĪħħĠĞįĤĪĩ o ħlĠĢĢĮ ģĜĩĮ ĝĜħĤ īħĜĴįĠij ĠijīĭĠĮĮ o ĩĤĦĠ ġĜĞįĪĭĴ ĮįĪĭĠ o ĪĮģ ĦĪĮģ ĝlĢĪĮģ o īĠĩğħĠįĪĩ o īĠĭġĠĞį ħĪĪĦ o ĭĜĞĦ ĭĪĪĨ ĮģĪĠĮ o ĭİĠ o SEASIDE ĮģĤīīĤĩĢ ĞĠĩįĠĭ o įģĠ IJĤĩĠ ĝĠĠĭ ģĜİĮ o įĪĦĴĪ įĠĭĤĴĜĦĤ o TOYS “R” US o ıĜĩ ģĠİĮĠĩ o ĵİĨĤĠĵ

APRIL-DECEMBER Monday-Saturday 10-8, Sunday 10-6 JANUARY-MARCH Sunday-Thursday 10-6, Friday-Saturday 10-8

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