SPECIAL EDITION GUNKHOLIN' Try a Chesapeake tradition 18 GREAT PORTS OF CALL Cruise one this weekend 6 SPORTY BOATS For every water sport
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CONTENTS
36 Anchoring Out
Drop the hook, pick up a book— MacDuff Perkins
39 Dinghy Doggie Do’s & Don’ts
Tips on cruising with your canine— MacDuff Perkins
42 Dock & Dine
One cruiser’s favorites— MacDuff Perkins
48 A Cruising Chef’s Menu
For your ideal weekend on the water— Caroline Foster
From the Annapolis School of Seamanship— Kiersten Hacker
15 Rafting Up
Explore the Bay’s gathering spots for great music and events— MacDuff Perkins with Isabel Littmann
19 Best Non-Alcoholic Drinks
For the boating season— MacDuff Perkins
22 Dive In Informed
Tips on swimming safely in the Bay— Kathy Knotts
25 Bay Folk Remedies
For jellyfish stings— Robert Gustavson
SECTION 2: CRUISING
29 The Chesapeake’s 18 Most Popular Ports of Call
How many have you cruised to?— Isabel Littmann
COVER: Jillian Bilotto skiing on Bear Creek at Watersedge Park in Dundalk, Maryland Photo by Mark Hergan.
ABOVE: Afloat behind a Judge 27 center console belonging to Harry Gotimer anchored in Round Bay on the Severn River near Annapolis, are (from left) John and Becca Sage, Andrew Jones and Joelle Gotimer. Photo by Jefferson Holland.
53 Chesapeake Cocktails
A fun mixture of locally inspired spirits— Kathy Knotts
SECTION 3: WATER SPORTS
55 The ‘Toys’ of Summer
For the more active on-the-water pursuits— Pat Piper
59 6 Best Boats for Tow
Sports
From tried-and-true to state-of-the-art— John Page Williams
SECTION 4: PADDLING
64 Traversing the Bay
207 miles from top to bottom— Chris Hopkinson
67 Ode to a Canoe
A simple aluminum hull holds memories for generations— John Page Williams
68 Car Top Options
For paddle-able boats— Mark Hendricks
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 3
VOLUME 53 | NUMBER 2
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Jim Burger, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Mark Hendricks, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Caroline J. Phillips, Steven Waltrich
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FROM THE EDITOR
Welcome to Weekends on the Water
by Jefferson Holland
Ever been “gunkholin’”? It’s a fine Bay tradition. As one Chesapeake troubadour invites us, “Let’s do some gunkholin’, we’ll cruise around the Bay, And do some gunkholin’, we’ll spend a lazy day, We’ll find a little cove where we can hide away, And do some gunkholin’, what d’ya say?”
You can read Raphael Alvarez’s love letter to this placid pastime beginning on page 13. And that’s just the start of a boatload of suggestions on how to get out on the water this summer and fall, whether on a 40-foot yacht, a 17foot skiff, or a 9-foot-long kayak.
You’re holding in your hands a fairly radical departure from our usual presentation for the annual “Weekends on the Water” issue. This edition is broken up into sections, including Day Tripping, Cruising, Water Sports and Paddling. We’ve engaged experienced and talented writers from all up and down the Bay to extol the joys to be found in each of these diverse pursuits.
Speaking of talented writers, I’d like to take this opportunity to acknowledge the work of our summer interns, Isabel Littmann, who’s heading to George Washington University’s School of Media and Public Affairs, Will Boram, who’s studying communications at Towson University, and Dorothy Hood and Kiersten Hacker, both from the Philip Merrill College of Journalism
at the University of Maryland. Not only have they been a delight to work with, but all of us on the editorial staff are impressed with their writing and editing skills. We’ll be rooting for them while we watch for their bylines in other publications as their careers evolve.
Speaking of bylines, I inadvertently omitted the name of my friend and colleague, Susan Moynihan, as the author of the “Chesapeake Chef” column in the last edition of CBM. A talented travel writer and editor, Susan wrote the book, “100 Things to Do in Annapolis and the Eastern Shore Before You Die.” She’s now doing research for “Secret Maryland,” which is due out in fall 2024.
I’m hoping the articles you read in this issue will inspire you to get out on
the water with your family and friends this season, and maybe try a new way to enjoy being afloat on the Bay. One of my favorite pieces in the Paddling section is John Page Williams’ ode to the canoe on page 67. I still have the 17-foot Grumman aluminum canoe my dad bought when I was 6. John Page couldn’t dig up any photos of his version of the same boat, so I found a couple of snapshots that Dad took with his Argus viewfinder camera. They show my big brother, Richard and a 10-year-old me with just such a canoe on a paddling trip on Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Such memories. Creating memories, that’s what this edition of Weekends on the Water is all about.
CBM editorial staff had the privilege of working with four talented interns this summer. Here, left to right, are Art Director Nancy Lambrides, Associate Publisher Natasha Lee-Putnam, Digital Content Editor Kathy Knotts, Intern Dorothy Hood, Intern Will Boram, Editorial Director Meg Walburn Viviano, Intern Kiersten Hacker and Editor Jefferson Holland. Intern Isabel Littmann was already off on other adventures when we took this photo.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 5
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DAY TRIPPING
Gunkholin’
BY RAFAEL ALVAREZ
Gunkhole: A secluded cove that's a perfect spot to spend a few quiet hours at anchor.
Gunk: what you have to wash off the anchor when you haul it up.
Gunkholin’: The gentle art of anchoring as large a boat as possible in a body of water as shallow as possible for the express purpose of relaxing as much as possible. “We’ll make a mighty effort to be lazy to the core,” as one gunkholin’ bard explains it.
Afunky name: Gunkholes. Familiar to boaters, but not so much the general public. A gunkhole isn’t a dirty carburetor but a term of unknown origin for shallow coves and creeks where sailors can drop anchor and take a dip. If Huck Finn had launched his raft on the Chesapeake Bay and not the Mississippi River, he might have dropped his skivvies for a dip at Bodkin Creek, Still Pond, Worton Creek or any of a hundred or so others between the mouth of the Bay and Elk River.
Worton, on Maryland’s upper Eastern Shore, is a favorite of many. “For true shallow-water boats, it has a cool little cove at the entrance to the creek with an even better beach,” says
Jeffrey Wettig, who sails out of the North East River. “There’s a large anchorage with a [big] enough beach to gather wood for fires and a marina or two to choose from for supplies and it's a great halfway point on our way south and back from, say, Annapolis.”
“Worton’s protected if you get a bad storm,” says Mark Clark, a lifelong resident of Linthicum who keeps his boat—the 28-foot Columbia Glass Lady—in nearby Rock Hall. “And there’s a nice beach where you can go over a hill and see the Bay.”
Swimming in the Chesapeake Bay has its hazards, like a jellyfish with an annoyingly painful—though rarely fatal—sting. Curiously, Smithsonian scientists recently discovered that the
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 9
ALLAN J. IMBRAGUGLIO
A sailboat at sunset on the Rhode River.
jellies found in the mid-Bay from midsummer to late fall are actually a distinct species from the ones in the Atlantic Ocean. So what we’ve been calling “sea nettles” for the past 175 years are actually “Bay nettles.”
According to NOAA’s Ocean Prediction Center website, they’re most often found in the mid-Bay, roughly between the mouth of the Chester River and the mouth of the Potomac, where salinities range from 10 to 20 parts per thousand (ppt). In the southern Bay, they often have red/ maroon markings on the long central tentacles and on the swimming bell. Since the region has had lower than normal rainfall this spring, salinity levels are predicted to be higher than normal this summer, which means there will probably be more nettles than usual.
Despite these annoyances, the Chesapeake’s creeks and rivers—and here and there a shimmering pond— are favored spots for vessels to drop anchor for an afternoon’s respite.
“We like Eagles Nest by Gibson Island,” says Gill, who sails a Beneteau 32.1, the Tom Foolery, with her husband. The Olney couple, who has cruised north of the Bridge for the past 13 years, is also fond of Bodkin Creek, Still Pond, Reed Creek, Fairlee Creek, and, just above Gibson Island, a small inlet called Grays Creek.
“We anchor sometimes in San Domingo Creek near St. Michaels,” says Gill. “And from Waterhole Cove it’s just a dinghy ride to shore and then a short walk over to Lowe’s Wharf where there’s a beach bar.”
William Gallion sails a 420 Passage, docked at Bowleys Marina near the mouth of Middle River. “We’re especially fond of Swan Creek over toward Rock Hall for its quiet serenity,
10 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023 DAY TRIPPING
Ashland, Beagle/Border Collie sailing on Rhode River
MICHAEL O'BRIEN
ease of getting there and swimming.” Bonus points, he says, “for shore access for dog walking and restaurants.”
Janet Ennis and her husband Jim Carmen are keen on taking their 42foot aft-cabin Carver, the 1099, into the protected waters of Wall Cove off of Rock Creek near Pasadena. There, near the Fairview Marina, they often dine at Mike’s North, where a bowl of cherrystone clams in broth goes for $15.
“We anchor out quite a bit and Jim likes to swim sometimes,” says Janet, soon to retire from the healthcare industry. “We’ll go out on a Thursday night and come home Monday from places like Frog Mortar Creek in Middle River. Lots of boats and swimming there. We usually just people watch but if it’s super hot we’ll grab a noodle and float around. It’s a great lifestyle.”
The couple, who has sailed the Bay on their Carver for two decades, also likes to visit Sue Creek in Essex and currently keeps their boat at the Sparrows Point Country Club in eastern Baltimore County. Its name, 1099, does not refer to a tax form but the interest rate at the time the couple bought a previous vessel.
Lynn Morris is a childhood friend of Mark Clark and his wife Karen Zaruba, whose family hails from Curtis Bay, where no one in their right mind goes for a swim. Morris lives on Hungars Creek near Cape Charles, Virginia. Like many who live on the Bay, she calls it “our little piece of heaven.”
“We love going to Sandbar Sundays on Smith Beach,” says Morris, whose husband Bill owns a Key West 23, Carolina Skiff and a boat for duck hunting. “It’s between Machipongo and Cape Charles on the Bay side. Everyone pulls up to the sandbar in the middle of nowhere for a few hours of partying.” Some of the bigger parties, she adds with a wink, are known as the “Hungar Games.”
Digital conversations among gunkholers take place by the hour on Facebook’s Middle Chesapeake Bay Sailing page. Member Larry Wilson says he likes the Fleets Bay area just north of Virginia’s Rappahannock River.
Many of these spots—Shaw Bay, Solomons Island, Tilghman Creek and scores of others—are detailed in William Shellenberger’s classic “Cruising the Chesapeake: A Gunkholers Guide,” now in its fourth edition. “It’s not what I’d call a bestseller but it's generally well known,” says Wilson. “All of the anchorages were personally visited by the author.”
Rhode River, south of the Thomas Point Lighthouse, is a regular destination for Allan J. Imbraguglio, a transplant from Baltimore to Washington who praises the tributary for “being completely surrounded by nature. It’s as far south as you can go on the Western Shore with such a protected anchorage.
“There are homes on one bank but far enough away that they don’t impede upon the other bank of (nothing but) trees,” said Imbraguglio, who sails a Hanse 455. “Further up the river, Cadle Creek near Holiday Hill Marina is not very large for anchoring but can accommodate maybe three or four boats. They call it Hurricane Hole.”
“Swimming is great around those spots as the water is mostly calm,” said Imbraguglio. “A fair amount of power boats speed through there on weekends with skiers but not enough to dissuade me from going.”
Back in 1954, two years after the Bay Bridge opened, Dan Flagler’s parents stayed on Worton Creek during a cruise of the Bay. “Based on the postcard my mom sent to her parents, it hasn't changed much,” says Flagler, who sails a Pearson 31-2 called Flagfest. “If we’re anchoring out we always look for a swim to cool down after a usually warm day sailing on the Bay.”
We polled our readers to find their favorite spots to laze a day away, and here are some of their responses:
“Still Pond is always my favorite anchorage for fun, but I also like Shaw Bay on the Wye River!”
“Herring Bay and South River”
“Shark Tooth Island on the Potomac, just off Breton Bay”
“Elk Neck State Park and Battery Island in the Upper Bay”
“Lynnhaven River just inside the inlet at Virginia Beach”
“Round Bay, Severn River”
“We stick to Dobbins Island on the Magothy River”
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 11 DAY TRIPPING
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Rafael Alvarez worked on the City Desk of the Baltimore Sun from 1981 to 2001. He can be reached via orlo.leini@gmail.com.
Tips on Anchoring FROM A PRO W
hether stopping for a quick break, grabbing a bite to eat, enjoying the display of a fireworks show or calling it a night after a long day of cruising, it’s important to practice safe anchoring. Captain Matt Benhoff from the Annapolis School of Seamanship (CBM’s sister company) has tips that will limit the risks of your boat dragging onto shore or even into someone else’s anchor line.
The first tip for anchoring your boat safely is choosing a favorable location that is sheltered from wind, like tucking into pockets along the shore. Looking at the fetch, or the distance wind travels over water, will help to see where there are rougher conditions. Some navigation systems will have symbols alerting boaters of ideal places to anchor.
Assessing the bottom is the next step in choosing a location to safely anchor. Generally, sand and mud lead to stronger holds, with mud being ideal. Fine sand could lead the anchor to slide out and rocky bottoms can be slippery, or the anchor could get caught. Again, navigation systems will display different symbols for different bottom characteristics.
Once you’ve chosen a good location, you should turn your eye to your ground tackle. While there are various types of anchors that could be used with line, chain or a combination of both, it’s crucial to ensure that your anchor is the proper size for your vessel. Chain can be more expensive than rope, but using all chain is best for a good hold. If you can’t spare the
BY KIERSTEN HACKER
extra money, even having some chain at the end of the anchor line helps. Then you should determine the amount of scope you’ll let out based on the depth of the water. “Scope” refers to the length of anchor line let out compared to the depth of the water you’re anchoring in. Make that calculation based on the vertical distance from the bottom to the bow where the anchor rode comes aboard, including not just the depth of the water, but also adding the freeboard, or the distance between the surface of the water and the bow at deck level. Usually, the bare minimum is a ratio of 5 feet of anchor line to 1 foot of water, but in many cases, it's better to create dip in the line by letting out even more line. For smaller boats using all-nylon line in calm conditions, a 7-1 ratio is recommended.
Once you have evaluated all these factors, it’s time to pull your bow into the wind at the location where you’ll drop the anchor. Visualize your swing radius since your boat can turn 360 degrees around the anchor and drop the anchor at the center. Start backing away to prevent line from snarling on itself and when you’ve let out about half your line, pause to back up for a few seconds to “snub” it. This digs the anchor into the bottom and straightens the line.
You’ll “snub” again once you’ve paid out your intended length of line, this time reversing for a few more seconds. The key tip at this point is to make sure the line is taut as the boat snaps into place with the anchor and
12 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023 DAY TRIPPING
that the line isn’t bouncing, which would mean that the anchor is dragging. As the line dips back down, you should then follow apps for anchoring or watch your snail trail on your chart plotter to make sure your vessel isn’t moving back as it swings side to side.
Another tip is that if your boat starts to drag, the first course of action should be to pay out more line. However, sometimes this could lead to your boat to swing too wide if you’ve paid out too much. In this case, you should back up and start the process over.
Some of the most common mistakes Benhoff says people make when attempting to anchor safely are choosing a location with poor hold, a spot where the wind and current could negatively affect the vessel, or not letting out enough scope.
An additional tool for safe anchoring is a snubber, or a piece of line like a bridle with a hook that attaches to the anchor line. The snubber attaches to the cleats at the bow and limits the load placed on the anchor line in the windlass, which allows you to let out or take in line.
To safely haul your anchor back in, drive up to it slowly while the windlass cranks in the line, taking back slack. When directly over the anchor, you can reverse your boat to tug the anchor free and use the windlass to haul it back up.
More resources with tips for safe anchoring can be found online through videos and other digital content, thorough books such as Chapman’s Books, or through classes like those offered at the Annapolis School of Seamanship.
a minor in public leadership at the University of Maryland. Her favorite things about the Chesapeake Bay are the rich history and culture, as well as
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 13
W O R L D C 213 Eastern Ave, Annapolis, MD 21403 c h e s a p e a k e b o a t i n g c l u b . c o m j w o r l d a n n a p o l i s . c o m H E S A P E A K E O A T I N G L U B B C ANNAPOLIS J PORT ANNAPOLIS LOCATED ON SWAN CREEK 20786 Rock Hall Avenue | Rock Hall, MD www.ospreypoint.com | 410-639-2194 Have a Waterfront Wedding In a Private Marina Hold the ceremony in a white gazebo followed by a wedding reception on the waterfront lawn covered by a white tent • Elegant, on-site inn and restaurant offers lodging, dining and catering • Marina event planner available to help you plan your special day • For smaller weddings or special events, our restaurant can be transformed into an elegant space
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Raf ting UP
BY MACDUFF PERKINS WITH ISABEL LITTMANN
Bringing friends together to celebrate the season is a mainstay of Chesapeake Bay culture, and for good reason. You can drop the hook in a quiet cove, or you can bring the boat to the nearest downtown to hear some live music from the comfort of the cockpit. Opportunity exists up and down the Bay for you to get outside and have a great time.
Live Music
Whether it’s a large outdoor venue or a hole-in-the-wall beach bar, catching live music from the water is one of the best ways to have a good time while saving a buck.
SHAW BAY RAFT-UP CONCERT, WYE RIVER, MARYLAND
Saturday, September 9, 2023 3–6 p.m.
Launched more than 20 years ago by CBM ’s former editor Janie Meneely, current editor Jefferson Holland and his musical partner Kevin Brooks, this free floating concert has grown to become one of the most iconic events for boaters on the Bay. It’s held each year to raise funds and awareness for clean water efforts of ShoreRivers and the Miles-Wye Riverkeeper on Maryland’s Eastern Shore.
CONCERTS IN AND AROUND BALTIMORE HARBOR, MARYLAND
Although the largest venue on the Patapsco is the 4,000-seat Pier Six Pavilion, live music has become a definite thing among Baltimore city’s waterfront parks. Canton offers the
WTMD First Thursday Festival through September, and the Summer Sunday Concert Series takes over the Inner Harbor, Harborplace Amphitheater every Sunday evening. Rafting up in Baltimore puts you in the heart of the city (so watch out for wind shear off the buildings), while pushing farther toward Canton and Fells Point offers the ability to go into shore to explore great restaurants and pubs.
CALVERT MARINE MUSEUM, SOLOMONS, MARYLAND
This village at the mouth of the Patuxent River has a distinct vibe that welcomes boaters of every make, model and size. With ample anchorages and a growing number of live music venues, this is a great destination for rafting up and enjoying the evening.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 15 DAY TRIPPING
COURTESY OF SHORERIVERS
Above: Boaters gather around the floating stage at the Shaw Bay raft-up concert.
DAY TRIPPING
The PNC Pavilion at the Calvert Marine Museum has a variety of eclectic artists and offers the ability to raft up just a stone’s throw from the venue. Rafting up in Back Creek just outside the Calvert Marine Museum puts you close enough to hear the music and grab a mooring ball if you need to spend the night. Push across the creek to Spring Cove if you need a little breathing room but still want to hear the music.
WATER MUSIC IN PORTSMOUTH, VIRGINIA
Festival Park in Portsmouth, Virginia, plays host to one of the area’s best waterside live music festivals. Each Thursday through September, local entertainers and food vendors head to Olde Towne for an evening of music and fun. There’s a great spot for rafting up between Hospital Point and Tidewater Yacht Marina, along with a dinghy dock in case you decide to take your dancing to the streets.
Other great events throughout the year:
Maryland
ANNAPOLIS
Eastport Yacht Club Lights Parade
December 9, 2023
6–8 p.m.
The magical Eastport Yacht Club Lights Parade takes place in Annapolis Harbor and Spa Creek on the second Saturday in December every year. This annual tradition has been delighting holiday revelers for more than 40 years.
Blue Angels
May 21–22
The Blue Angels Flight Demonstration highlights the U.S. Naval Academy's Commissioning Week festivities every year. They return to Annapolis skies with a roar on Tuesday, May 21 and Wednesday, May 22, 2024.
BALTIMORE
Mid-Shore Fishing Club Invasive Species Tournament
July 1–31
6 a.m.–5 p.m.
Each day you catch fish you snap a photo on your phone (JPEG only) and send to Bob Lawrence at 410-365-5723 or email to: webmaster@midshorefishingclub.com (Picture must have a measurement device showing the size of the fish and include the date picture was taken and a Landmark of some type aka Boat Ramp, channel marker, bridge, etc.)
CHESTERTOWN
Sultana Downrigging Festival
October 27–29, 2023
Now in its 23nd year, the Sultana Education Foundation’s Downrigging Weekend Festival is one of the largest annual tall ship gatherings in North America. The festival features a long
16 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023 COURTESY OF SHORERIVERS
weekend of tall ship sails, tours, live bluegrass music, lectures, exhibits, family activities, regional food and more.
KENT ISLAND
Bay Paddle
July 22–23, 2023
The Chesapeake Bay Paddle consists of two races; 1) A 24-mile solo and team race designed for outrigger canoes (OCs), surfskis, SUPs, kayaks, canoes (both single and multi-person) from Kent Island to Haven Harbor South in Rock Hall. 2) A 12-mile soloonly race designed for OCs, surfskis, SUPs, kayaks, canoes (both single and multi-person) from Kent Island to Haven Harbor South in Rock Hall.
ST. MICHAELS
Antique & Classic Boat Festival and Coastal Arts Fair
June 2024
Wooden and fiberglass classics, vintage racers, and other antique boats return to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum on Father’s Day weekend 2024 for one of the largest classic boat shows in the Mid-Atlantic region. The event features a wide range of vessels on display representing a multitude of makers and eras, plus a juried Coastal Arts Fair showcasing vendors whose products, services, and art represent boats, the water and coastal life.
Virginia ALEXANDRIA
23rd Annual Holiday Boat Parade of Lights
December 2, 2023
5:30 p.m.
Old Town Alexandria’s historic waterfront will shine on December 2 for the 23rd Annual Alexandria Holiday Boat Parade of Lights sponsored by Amazon as more than 50 brightly lit boats cruise along one mile of the Potomac River shoreline starting at 5:30 p.m. Enjoy dockside festivities from 2 to 8 p.m. including a pop-up beer garden from Port City Brewing Company, local food, music from 97.1 WASH-FM and hands-on activities from Alexandria boutiques.
CHINCOTEAGUE
Annual Pony Swim
July 26, 2023
7 a.m.–1 p.m.
The Chincoteague Pony Swim was made famous by Marguerite Henry's “Misty of Chincoteague.” Tens of thousands of spectators from around the world gather on Chincoteague Island each year to watch this annual tradition.
Chincoteague Oyster Festival
October 7
10 a.m.–4 p.m.
The Chincoteague Oyster Festival is held to promote the seafood industry and mark the arrival of the oyster season. Come and enjoy oysters—raw, steamed, fritters, and fried; clam fritters, clam chowder, shrimp cocktail, salad bar, hot dogs, hush puppies, and boardwalk fries. Beverages are included in the ticket price with beer available for purchase.
YORKTOWN
Yorktown Lighted Boat Parade
December 2, 2023
7–8 p.m.
Watch as a fleet of decorated boats navigate around the York River and compete for best in show! This annual event has been a community tradition for more than two decades and brings neighbors together to celebrate the season.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 17
MacDuff Perkins lives in Annapolis, where she is the owner of Groundswell Yoga Studio. She and her family enjoy sailing their Sabre 42 around the East Coast.
Isabel Littman is a recent graduate of Key School in Annapolis and a former CBM intern. She will be attending the George Washington University this fall, majoring in journalism.
SCOTT GELO
Left: The Shaw Bay concert benefits the clean water efforts of ShoreRivers and the Miles-Wye Riverkeeper on Maryland’s Eastern Shore.
Right: San Domingo Creek, Labor Day 2022
A New w w w. t r i s t a t e m a r i n e . c o m | A n n a p o l i s : 4 1 0 - 5 6 2 - 6 2 4 7 | D e a l e : 4 1 0 - 8 6 7 - 1 4 4 7 | s a l e s @ t r i s t a t e m a r i n e . c o m
THE BEST NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS for the Boating Season
BY MACDUFF PERKINS
It’s that time of year when the hot days make few things better than cracking open a cold one. With more and more adults choosing to refrain from alcohol, options for enjoying cold beverages are increasing for boaters who want the taste of beer without the after-effects.
Avoiding a hangover is just one of the benefits of abstaining from alcohol. BoatUS reports that roughly half of all boating accidents involve boating under the influence, with nonfatal boating accidents resulting in almost $250 million in property damage annually. The association reports that some accidents are due to what is referred to as “boater’s hypnosis,” a fatigue syndrome caused by excessive vibration, sun exposure, motion and other factors. Boater’s hypnosis slows reaction times, and when coupled with alcohol, the effects can be significant.
Abstaining is always the best idea when operating a boat, and thankfully several beverage companies now make that easy and enjoyable.
Here are a few drink suggestions for the responsible skipper.
LAGUNITAS HOPPY REFRESHER
$17.99 for a 12-pack
This popular beer company has released a sparkling seltzer water infused with its own hops, creating an IPA-inspired seltzer beverage. The Hoppy Refresher is made from the same amount of hops and yeast, but the beverage is thankfully zerocalorie, gluten free and carb-free. Aromatic and with the same bubbles as a glass of champagne, this is a fun beverage you can enjoy all day without worry.
BUDWEISER ZERO
$11.99 for a 12-pack
Budweiser has done a pretty decent job creating a beer-ish beverage that has minimal calories and carbohydrates. The “zero” in the name refers to the beer’s fat content, not the hoppiness or carbonation. Bud Zero is best compared to an extremely light beer and is refreshing when you want to enjoy a cold one without worrying about calories (just 50 per can) or carbs (12g), but is the least like an actual beer of all we reviewed.
ATHLETIC BREWING UPSIDE DAWN GOLDEN
$13.99 for a 6-pack
One of the more flavorful nonalcoholic beers comes from Athletic Brewing, a Milford, Connecticut brewery that has focused on greattasting products that support personal health. Focusing on products that are
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not just beer substitutes but are also part of a fitness lifestyle, Athletic’s Golden brings fruity notes with light malt and hops with only 45 calories per 12 ounces. This is one of the more expensive non-alcoholic beers on the market, but it’s worth it when you want to feel good about your beverage choice, and not as if you’re being punished.
STELLA ARTOIS LIBERTE
$9.99 for a 6-pack
Stella Artois has done the best job in creating a non-alcoholic beer that tastes the most like its alcoholic sibling. This mild, sweet pale malt has a refreshing, clean finish with the complexity of deep fermentation, making the Liberte a great drink for enjoying while underway or while dining.
HEINEKEN 0.0
$19.99 for a 12-pack
Perhaps the most like an actual beer, Heineken 0.0 has a grassy, almost citrusy flavor reminiscent of an actual Heineken. In fact, all of our reviewers admitted to enjoying the taste of the N/A Heineken more than the regular version. Also appreciated is the fact that the packaging is almost indistinguishable from normal Heineken, which makes socializing in groups easier when you don’t want it known that you aren’t imbibing. Top marks all around.
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MacDuff Perkins lives in Annapolis, where she is the owner of Groundswell Yoga Studio. She and her family enjoy sailing their Sabre 42 around the East Coast.
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Dive In INFORMED
BY KATHY KNOTTS
The lure of jumping into the Chesapeake Bay on a hot summer day is intense. But when pollutants and bacteria are in the water, swimming becomes more of a risk rather than a pleasure.
When is it safe to swim? And where do you find this important information before you dip your toes in?
Since everything flows downstream, it’s important for swimmers to be informed and proactive.
Heavy rains are expressways for pollutants entering the Bay. Water quality can change with a single rainstorm, so some days our waters are not safe waters.
Nitrogen in the Bay primarily gets there by way of agricultural runoff, including your home lawn and garden. An excess of nitrogen can cause algae blooms, which block sunlight and oxygen from reaching aquatic plants and animals. The blooms of blue-green algae (which is really cyanobacteria) can sicken people and animals as well as the water and its inhabitants.
Bacteria, including the muchfeared vibrio, occur naturally in brackish water like the Bay and its tributaries. It’s when the bacteria levels get too high that they can cause a variety of nasty health issues, from gastrointestinal to gangrene and blood infections. When fecal bacteria is washed into the water after a storm, it ends up in the Bay where it can make you (and your pets) sick.
In such a stew, swimming with open sores, cuts or ear infections makes us susceptible and can cause life-threatening skin and blood infections and intestinal illnesses. Stay out of the water within 48 hours of a heavy rain. Avoid swimming if you feel
ill and have open cuts or sores. You can help keep the water clean by taking your trash with you, properly disposing of diapers and pet waste, keeping sewage on your boat, and other important practices.
Before you take that dip, there are several places where you can find recent water quality testing, primarily done by local health departments and select Riverkeepers (a network of nonprofit organizations that advocate for fishable, swimmable waterways).
Eyes on the Bay (https://tinyurl. com/2ut58tap) is Maryland’s hub for many of these reports. The Maryland Healthy Beaches Program (https:// tinyurl.com/36a978b9) which is listed on the Eyes on the Bay site is also available as an app. There you’ll find information gleaned from monitoring water conditions at nearly 200 beaches in Maryland from Memorial Day to Labor Day with color-coded status reports on beaches throughout the
state and daily updates on rainfall.
In Virginia, consult the Beach Map (https://tinyurl.com/mpthehw2) for the current status of Virginia's public coastal beaches. The state health department is also active on Twitter, where you can find advisories too (@VDHBeach). Bacteria levels in beach water are monitored at 45 public beaches in Virginia on the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean during the swimming season (May–September).
Most Riverkeepers across the Chesapeake Bay watershed are now displaying their results on the Waterkeeper Swim Guide Map/App (https://tinyurl.com/4cnjedme).
Swimming is one of the highlights of summer. Enjoy it safely.
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Kathy Knotts is a writer, editor and digital content editor at Chesapeake Bay Magazine. She is the former editor of CBM Bay Weekly and has spent over 20 years in media. A native of Louisiana, she loves good books, good food and good cocktails.
22 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023
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CHESAPEAKE BAY FOLK REMEDIES for Jellyfish Stings
BY ROBERT GUSTAFSON
The first time I paid attention to a jellyfish was years ago when my 4-year-old son stood waistdeep in the Chesapeake, screaming, as pink welts rose across his chest. He had tangled with a sea nettle (Chrysaora chesapeakei), the most common jellyfish in the Bay.
“Splash seawater on it and sprinkle this on his chest,” said our friend, pulling a shaker of meat tenderizer out of her beach bag with confidence. It was my introduction to the sketchy and remarkably robust underworld of Chesapeake folk remedies for jellyfish stings.
The sting of some jellyfish, notably the box jellyfish of Australia, can be fatal to humans. Our local sea nettle delivers a moderately painful sting that doctors say is not usually dangerous unless the recipient develops a severe allergic reaction or a small child is stung over a large part of their body (in which case call 911 immediately). The
pain from most sea nettle stings usually peaks within five minutes and dissipates over the next few hours.
Dr. Erin Rafferty, a pediatrician affiliated with Children’s Hospital of the King’s Daughters in Norfolk, has written, “most [jellyfish stings] are not emergencies. If your child is stung, try to remain calm and reassure your child that they will be ok.”
I am convinced that the rapid onset of acute pain coupled with the knowledge that there is no need for professional medical attention spurred the plethora of folk remedies that may be as much placebo as panacea.
My friend Buck, an unofficial keeper of Eastern Shore folkways, says, “Mom would mix the tobacco from a cigarette with water into a paste and put that on a sting.” There is evidence that Native Americans applied tobacco leaves directly to the body to alleviate pain and that a tobacco poultice was used prior to 1860 to treat insect
stings, so this may be the oldest known recipe for relief from Chesapeake jellyfish stings.
Many swear that papain, the enzyme found in many commercial meat tenderizers, neutralizes the venom of jellyfish stings. A 1972 article in the Journal of the American Medical Association claimed that a quarter teaspoon of meat tenderizer mixed with a teaspoon of water and rubbed on the skin at the site of the sting causes “virtually all pain to stop within seconds.” But newer research discredits this remedy’s purported effectiveness and WebMD.com discourages its use.
As my sons grew older, they developed their own solution when they were stung while swimming with friends: vigorously rubbing the sting with wet sand. I viewed this remedy as a harmless acknowledgment that the pain would be fleeting and it was not worth stopping their fun. But there
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NANCY LAMBRIDES
CREATE JELLYFISH-FREE SWIMMING ZONES WITH NETTLE NET BOAT POOL
By Kiersten Hacker
From longtime family recipes to online remedies or scientific recommendations, many have their preferred method for treating pesky stings from sea nettle in the Chesapeake. But with Nettle Net Boat Pool, there is no need to prepare for a sting in the first place, swimmers can jump in the water worry free.
Nettle Net Boat Pool is available in an 8-foot, 12-foot or 20-foot diameter and comes with a foot pump and storage bag with a price range of about $600 to $1,600. This makes it easy to create a jellyfish-free swimming area right off a boat’s platform or a dock for those of all ages to take part in the fun of wading in the refreshing waters during the season.
Once the pool’s rim is inflated and the top-notch Halkey-Roberts valve closed, the weighted line at the bottom of the netting will form a pool about 8 feet deep. The first swimmer can adjust the rim to be round as the rest join in to enjoy the strong protection from the fine netting.
A long day in the sun can be tiresome, but cleanup is simple. After pulling the pool out of the water, the valve is quickly released and the pool can drain before bringing it home. The pool can be rinsed and dried in the sun for its next painless use.
No one wants to experience a jellyfish sting, so Nettle Net Boat Pool minimizes worries while maximizing boating fun season after season.
may be some justification, as the health department in Branford, Connecticut, recommends rubbing sand over stings and flushing with salt water to dislodge the tiny stingers, called nematocysts.
Other folk cures call for dousing the sting in vinegar, alcohol or ammonia, coating it in shaving cream, scraping with a credit card, rubbing with a towel, or applying a baking soda and seawater poultice.
Finally, there is the most controversial folk remedy for jellyfish stings-human urine. This traditional remedy was made infamous by a 1997 episode of the sitcom Friends when the group learned that Chandler peed on Monica in an attempt to assuage the pain of a sting. I am pleased to report that ample medical evidence, including a 2016 scientific study titled “To Pee, or Not to Pee,” indicates that urine has no salutary effects on jellyfish stings and may cause stinging cells embedded in the skin to trigger, making the pain more intense.
The truth is that there is no firm consensus from the medical profession on the ideal treatment for sea nettle stings. The Seattle Children’s Hospital provides the following care advice for stings from jellyfish in the Chesapeake:
• Rinse the area with seawater to remove large tentacles.
• Scrape the area with a credit card or blunt knife to remove small stingers.
• Rinse the area with a mixture of seawater and baking soda for 15 minutes (for Chesapeake jellyfish do not use vinegar, which may trigger the stingers).
• As needed, give the patient pain medicine such as acetaminophen, rub with an ice cube, and apply hydrocortisone cream.
New prevention and treatment solutions are being developed, too. You can buy
anti-jellyfish sting lotion that creates a slippery surface on the skin that reportedly makes it difficult for jellyfish tentacles to attach to the skin (safesea.store). Swimmers can create jellyfish-free zones with products like the Nettle Net boat pool, a portable, floating barrier between swimmers and sea nettles that is locally made in Millersville, Maryland (nojellyfish.com) A spray is also available that the manufacturers say provides rapid relief for stings of all classes of jellyfish (stingnomore.com).
One preventative recommendation that I simply cannot endorse: wearing pantyhose while swimming in the Bay. Yes, jellyfish stings are painful. But I hope we can all agree that it’s better to suffer an occasional sting than to trade the freedom and joy of splashing in the Bay for the confining, clingy embrace of a pair of clammy hosiery. If the sea nettles are so thick you are contemplating swimming in pantyhose, please exercise the only 100% foolproof way of avoiding stings—grab a beer, sit high and dry on your boat or dock and watch the jellyfish enjoying their lives pulsing around in the beautiful Chesapeake Bay.
Disclaimer: Any health information contained in this article is for educational purposes only. Readers assume full responsibility for how they choose to use it.
Robert "Gus" Gustafson lives on the Eastern Shore of Virginia by way of Chicago, Harvard University and a career on Capitol Hill. In his spare time, he coaches Broadwater track and field teams and cultivates heirloom vegetables from the Chesapeake region.
Kiersten Hacker is a rising senior from Long Island, New York studying journalism with a minor in public leadership at the University of Maryland. Her favorite things about the Chesapeake Bay are the rich history and culture, as well as the beautiful nature.
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The Chesapeake’s Most Popular
COMPILED BY ISABEL LITTMAN
CRUISING PORTS OF CALL
With more than 11,000 miles of navigable shoreline dotted by dozens of charming ports of call, from Havre de Grace to Cape Charles, there are more places to explore on the Chesapeake Bay than there are weekends to explore them. Here’s a taste of some of the more popular ports of call, selected for their charm, fun attractions, and wealth of accommodating marinas and restaurants. You can start to plan your cruise with a visit to ChesapeakeBay Magazine.com and click on the “Bay Places” tab.
Oxford
The charming allure of Oxford comes from the town’s delightfully serene community and waterside streets. Bordered on three sides by the Tred Avon River and Town Creek, the
historic colonial port now offers visitors a museum, restaurants and biking trails bundled up in a quiet waterfront escape. While boasting several marinas, Safe Harbor, on the city’s northern point, offers boaters a chance to fuel up before grabbing a bite nearby at Capsize OXMD or Scottish Highland Creamery. Dive into the town’s storied history at the Oxford Museum and continue by putting your feet up at the enchanting Robert Morris Inn.
Chesapeake City
A highlight of Chesapeake City is that it is eminently walkable. The historic city has parks, ice cream shops, restaurants and inns. On the north side of the canal, visit Schaefer’s Canal
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House for overnight or hourly docking, fuel, an outdoor cafe and an indoor restaurant. The town can be described as a Victorian gem with museums, hikes along the C&D Canal, and charming small businesses such as jewelers, antique shops and galleries.
Havre de Grace
Havre de Grace is a quiet town with antique shops, interesting restaurants and unique museums. The chic Vandiver Inn stands out as a soughtout wedding venue or just as a charming weekend stay. With plenty of boat ramps, SUP rentals, and even sailing lessons, there is something for every water lover. Walk along the Layfette Trail and visit the Decoy Museum for a history lesson. Check out JoRetro Vintage as well as Bahoukas Antiques Mall and Beer MuZeum for mid-century finds. Galleries, book and music shops are all scattered among restaurants such as Coakley’s Pub, Tidewater Grille, as well as Vineyard Wine Bar for the wine aficionado, or the historic State Theater for live performances.
it all. At the Inner Harbor, you can see a fleet of historic ships, the National Aquarium, restaurants, shops and even an Orioles game. Among the numerous marinas, the Inner Harbor Marina, Baltimore City Docks, Harbor East Marina, and Inner Harbor Hotels stand out as some of the most notable and most accommodating. Fun, familyfriendly opportunities abound. You can get hands-on with the kids at Port Discovery, cruise the harbor, cheer on the O’s, and climb aboard the most historic ships in Baltimore, just to name some activities. For an educational approach, view Baltimore from the Baltimore World Trade Center at 30 stories, visit approximately 800 species at the Baltimore Aquarium, and all the interactive exhibits at the Maryland Science Center. When you get hungry, it’s impossible not to find something in Baltimore, but highlights include Ouzo Bay and The Bygone.
Fells Point
One-Eyed Mike’s, Bertha’s Mussels and Duck Duck Goose. Captain James Seafood Palace not only serves great food but it's built in the shape of an ocean-going commercial vessel. Don't miss the Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Museum to discover the port's richly diverse ship building history.
Rock Hall
From history to nightlife to activities for the whole family, Baltimore has
Fells Point is home to some of the most charming and lively parts of Baltimore. Keep your boat at Crescent Marina and stay at either Henderson’s Wharf Inn and Marina or Admiral Fell Inn. Walk around the old cobblestone streets, and visit the intriguing restaurants, shops and pubs filled with history. For example, The Horse You Came In On Saloon is rumored to be where Edgar Allen Poe drank his last drink. For a pub crawl, check out
Rock Hall has some of the Bay’s best sailing, cruising and paddling, along with some of the most sophisticated marinas on the Chesapeake. North Point and Rock Hall Landing are favorites. Black Duck Inn, Mariner’s Motel and Osprey Point Inn are all top-notch lodging options. Chester River Kayaks, Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge and Shardana Sailing Charters all offer independent sailing or paddling options. Visit the charming shopping district, including The Hickory Stick for cute accessories, The Bay Escape for housewares and decor, and Grammy’s Goodies for fresh mini donuts. More activities include the Waterman’s Museum, the pool at Bayside Park or the beach at Ferry Park. Interesting and fun food experiences include Harbor Shack for beer and seafood, Ford’s Seafood, Waterman’s Crab House and Bay Wolf. The Mainstay hosts world-class live musical performances, from jazz to classical to folk.
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Annapolis & Eastport
This famed historic downtown houses the Naval Academy as well as too many shops and restaurants to count. Go for decadent brunch or fresh seafood in downtown Annapolis, and fine meats and oysters in Eastport. For casual fare, try the Boatyard Bar and Grill or Davis' Pub in Eastport or Chick 'n Ruth's Deli and Sofi's Crepes downtown Annapolis. Take your kids for a cruise on the pirate ship that tours the Severn River, then check out one of several ice cream shops along Main Street downtown. For pets, go to the Sea Dog Pet Boutique, and for the book lover visit Old Fox Books on Maryland Avenue. Tour the State House or follow the footsteps of America’s Founding Fathers as you wander the streets of downtown to learn more about the history of the capital of Maryland.
Kent Narrows
generations. The abundance of yacht yards and marinas will leave no boater behind. As for lodging, the Hilton Garden Inn Kent Island and Hyatt Place both offer all-encompassing amenities. The Chesapeake Bay Environmental Center and Ferry Point Nature Park are great launch spots for paddlers, while SipAhoy TikiBoat will provide a captain and a waterside tour as long as you provide the beer, wine, snacks and friends. When finished with fishing off boats, or exploring the various nature parks, visit The Narrows Restaurant or the Harris Crab House for fresh seafood.
St. Michaels
Cambridge
Kent Narrows might be known for its abundance of dock bars, cruising boats and happy hours that last into the wee hours, but it’s also the domain of watermen that have been harvesting the Bay’s bounty for
St. Michaels is one of the most popular weekend retreats for boaters, families and couples, featuring shops, restaurants, B&Bs and an elegant resort, accompanied by three marinas. For an elegant stay, visit the Inn at Perry Cabin, and for an experience with all amenities imaginable, choose the St. Michaels Harbor Inn, Marina and Spa. Notable restaurants include Foxy’s Harbor Grille and Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar. The town’s crown jewel is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, where you can climb aboard the Hooper Island Straight lighthouse or take a ride on a traditional Bay boat. Shop on Talbot Street for microbreweries, ice cream parlors, antique shops, boutiques and art galleries.
As one of the earliest English settlements, Cambridge is a delightfully walkable town with restaurants, museums and a rich history. To be within walking distance of nearly everything in town, park the boat at Cambridge Yacht Basin. If you’re interested in the oldest working crab processing factory in the world, visit J.M. Clayton Company Seafood. For a quiet stay, visit Cambridge House Bed and Breakfast, or visit Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Resort, Spa and Marina for a standalone, all-encompassing experience. The nearby Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, a wildlife sanctuary, provides guided paddle tours where you’re sure to see bald eagles and migrating waterfowl. Learn about the life of the heroine who guided scores of enslaved people to freedom on the Underground Railroad at the Harriet Tubman Museum. The nationally renowned RAR Brewing originated here, while Blue Ruin specializes in delightful cocktails. Try the Portside Seafood Restaurant for the best in fresh seafood.
Solomons
The tiny island of Solomons Island hosts boats of every kind, restaurants
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full of fresh seafood, a boardwalk, and a downtown of shops and hotels. For the kids, visit the Calvert Marine Museum to see river otters, skates and rays, touch a giant fossilized shark’s tooth or take a ride on a traditional Chesapeake Bay buyboat. The island is both charming and entirely walkable, making the multiple marinas, B&Bs, marine museums, boardwalks and restaurants easily accessible. For the inner scientist, be sure to visit the Chesapeake Biological Lab, featuring seminars and tours. With plenty of options for food, be sure to check out highlights such as The CD Cafe, and Charles Street Brasserie.
Onancock
the weekend market, take in a flick at the historic Roseland movie theater, or tour the historic Ker Place. Do not miss the Corner Bakery, a cult favorite among locals and tourists alike. Bizzotto’s Gallery Cafe, Mallards at the Wharf, the Blarney Stone Pub and 3 Knots Taphouse are all local staples for dining and companionship.
Cape Charles
Urbanna
Although small, Onancock is wellloved. Surrounding by marshes and populated by restaurants and shops, it is popularly explored by foot and bikes. Due to the easy boat access, Onancock Wharf and Marina is an option for overnight lodging, as is the Charlotte Hotel, which features two dining rooms, a lovely bar and eight guest rooms. Onancock also provides an abundance of B&Bs like the Inn at Onancock with tastefully decorated with international themes. When exploring by water, launch your personal paddle-able boat or rent one from Burnham Guides, or climb aboard a cruise with Holly Cove Charters or Onancock Sailing Adventures. Visit Market Street for an abundance of galleries, stroll through
Cape Charles is a charming village filled with shops, restaurants and one of the best Bay beaches. The Cape Charles Yacht Center offers comprehensive marine services, while the Oyster Farm Marina at Kings Creek offers fresh seafood in a waterfront setting. Hotel Cape Charles and Bay Haven Inn provide charm and great breakfasts. Southeast Expeditions offers unique paddle tours, or go fishing on one of Cape Charles’s fleet of charter boats. The town boasts a half-mile-long white sand beach, complete with a fishing pier. In addition to the beach, Cape Charles is home to shops such as Table and Tonic, Lemon Tree Gallery and Peach Street Books. The quaint Central Park, Cape Charles Museum and Cape Charles Library provide lovely views, unique architecture and deep history. Cape Charles Distillery and Kelly’s Gingernut Pub are both friendly spots for a refreshing quaff. The Shanty, and Deadrise Italian Kitchen are the locals' favorite restaurants.
Although 75,000 people make the trek to the Urbanna Oyster Festival every October, there is much more to this charming town than just oysters freshshucked on the half shell, roasted, fried or stewed. If you’re looking for a place for the boat to stay, check out Bridge Marinas. If you’re looking for a place to stay check into The Chesapeake Inn, or look to the Bethpage Camp-Resort for cottages and even a waterpark. Walk around town to take in its rural charm, or launch a paddle from multiple launches. Something Different specializes in “Fine Neanderthal Cuisine,” Where the Sidewalk Ends provides delicious baked goods, and Marshall’s Drug Store’s lunch counter offers some of the best milkshakes around. And of course, if you find yourself in Urbanna in October, check out the world-famous Oyster Festival.
Deltaville
With possibly more boats than people, Deltaville proudly claims itself to be the boating capital of the Chesapeake Bay. Although there is no downtown in Downtown Deltaville (a hint to its scarce population), the town features
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some of the best sailing, paddling, fishing and cruising waters on the Chesapeake. The town huddles along the shoreline, with marinas that provide bicycles to make getting around without a car easier. The Cross Rip Campground offers waterfront cabins with character as well as campsites for tents and RVs. For a bite to eat, visit J&W Seafood and Gourmet Market for the freshest seafood around.
Yorktown
artwork. Yorktown Pub, Water Street Grille, and Carrot Tree Kitchens are all go-tos for fresh and local drinks, baked goods, seafood and pizza.
Hampton
Portsmouth
In addition to its history, Yorktown is packed with activities, from lively farmers markets to a Riverwalk with a summer concert series. In a small walkable area, Yorktown is teeming with restaurants and shops, museums and a great beach. Riverwalk Landing Piers is the town’s marina, but Wormley Creek Marina and York River Yacht Haven also offer hospitable options to boaters. For lodging, Yorktown Beach Hotel offers not only a fantastic location, but also a pool. The stately Hornsby House has been accommodating guests for three generations and has mastered their formal breakfast. Riverwalk landing offers not only slips for smaller boats, but options to launch your own paddle-able boat, or rent from Patriot Tours and Provisions. Williamsburg Charter Sails has threehour sails for up to six people, or you can simply relax on one of the many public beaches. Among the numerous historical sites and touring options, visit shops for one-of-a-kind crafts, unique jewelry, rare books, or
Leading right to the city’s doorstep, Hampton offers one of the friendliest yacht clubs around, an air-and-space museum and a historic town center. Bluewater Yachting Center has all the amenities needed plus more, in addition to the Hampton Yacht Club and Customs House Marina. The Landing at Hampton Marina is conveniently located for overnight docking, while the Magnolia House Inn offers B&B accommodations with an onsite wedding chapel. For launching personal kayaks or SUPs, look to Mill Point Park or River Street Park Canoe and Kayak launch. The sleek new tour boat, the Hampton Queen offers two-hour narrated cruises. Jet ski rentals are available at Great White Water Sports, Buckroe Beach and Park has a swimming beach, and Paradise Ocean Club offers resort-style accommodations. For other activities, the Virginia Air & Space Museum is a must, or visit the numerous other museums for a taste of history. There are plenty of fun bars and pubs, but Marker 20 offers live bands on the piers. The Deadrise at Old Point Comfort Marina and Surf Rider are both Virginia seafood staples while Goody’s Deli and Pub, Venture Kitchen and Bar, Brown Chicken Brown Cow, and The Grey Goose are all great options for great eats.
Among the historic buildings, churches and homes, Portsmouth has a vibrant nightlife with first-rate entertainment venues, highly regarded restaurants, and weekends highlighting crafts, music and antiques. For those arriving by boat, Portsmouth is bookended by two marinas, Tidewater Yacht Marina and Ocean Marine. Everything in between is within an easy stroll, providing lovely B&Bs as well as the elegant Renaissance Portsmouth-Norfolk Hotel. When looking for activities, take a walk through Olde Towne to breath in the history, or shop at Skipjack Nautical Wares and Gallery or the Little Shoppes on High. You can board the Lightship Portsmouth Museum for a glimpse of local maritime history, The Atlantic Union Bank & Trust Pavilion hosts top-name performers, and the Portsmouth Art and Cultural Center offers a multitude of art offerings. Try the Yoolks on Us for real Southern grits, or for a taste of international fare, don't miss Cafe Europa, Still Worldly Eclectic Tapas, and The Bier Garden.
Isabel Littman is a recent graduate of Key School in Annapolis and a former CBM intern. She will be attending the George Washington University this fall, majoring in journalism.
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• Experience the Art of the Eastern Shore’s Sporting and Hunting Traditions
• Taste Regional Delicacies, Wines and Beers
• Enjoy Outdoor activities including Dock Dogs®, Retriever Demonstrations and Birds of Prey
• Take Part in Family Activities such as Hands-On Arts & Crafts and the Kid’s Fishing Derby
• Get Your Holiday Shopping Done Early at the Festival or at Easton’s Local Shops
Weekends on the Water 023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 35 2023WATERFOWL
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Anchoring Out Drop the hook, pick up a book
BY MACDUFF PERKINS
Modern marinas in and around the Chesapeake’s many ports of call provide all the comforts a cruiser might require, but there’s an elemental happiness to be found in dropping the hook and unplugging from the chaos of everyday life for a day or two. In between those ports, many of the Chesapeake’s shores are protected from development, creating a bucolic environment to bring greater peace to your stay. Sit back in the cockpit with that book you’ve been saving for just such a moment, or take the dinghy ashore and play Robinson Crusoe; there is no greater peace than in these moments.
One of the Chesapeake’s best botanical surprises is the American
lotus, which blooms for several weeks during July and August. Looking like straight sunlight reflected off the water’s surface, the flowers grow in extensive floating fields that hover atop some of the Bay’s shallower creeks. Expect to see these blooms later in the summer and admire them from a distance as they spell waters as shallow as 12 inches to 5 feet.
Some of the best places to view American lotus flowers in Maryland are in the shallows of Mattawoman Creek in Charles County, Turner’s Creek in Kent County, and the Sassafras River in Cecil County.
Meandering your way up the Eastern Bay and tucking into the Wye East River offers some of the best bird watching experiences on the Bay.
Plenty of small, quiet anchorages offer peace and tranquility, making nearby St. Michaels seem like a bustling metropolis. From your cockpit you can watch for bald eagles, green heron, swallows and terns aplenty.
Pushing farther up the river, Pickering Creek is an ideal hurricane hole to disappear into, protected from all directions. The entrance to the creek can be shallow, which turns off many. But as you head east you’ll find plentiful anchorages, and the Pickering Creek Audubon Society offers peace and quiet for your gathering.
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MACDUFF PERKINS
Above: Rhode River, June 2023
Right: Jessica St. Clair submitted this photo of boats anchored out on the Sassafras River to the ShoreRivers Annual Photo Contest.
Traversing south down the Chesapeake brings about an entirely different environment. Both winds and seas build as the Bay opens her arms to the Atlantic, and anchorages take on a different shape and scene. One of those is Fleets Bay near the mouth of the Rappahannock River, which offers white sand beaches extending in all directions. Protected in the crook of a peninsular elbow, an artificial oyster reef has made Fleets Bay a hot spot for fishing and crabbing (thus making anchoring a little difficult). Send the kids to explore in the marshes while you pretend to fish in the quiet. Locals know to catch the sunset before heading home.
MacDuff Perkins lives in Annapolis, where she is the owner of Groundswell Yoga Studio. She and her family enjoy sailing their Sabre 42 around the East Coast.
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Dinghy Doggie Do’s & Don’ts
BY MACDUFF PERKINS
It’s hard to leave your pet at home when you go cruising. Dogs are hard-wired to be beside us all day long, and bringing your animal along when you go cruising is a great way to make your time on the water more enjoyable.
Being on the water adds another level to responsible pet parenting, however. It’s worth it to plan ahead and take the guesswork out of bringing your pet on board so that you can enjoy your time without worry. Here are some ideas to keep in mind before you shove off.
1. Life Jackets
While it’s also the safest form of protection for your best friend, think of your pup’s PFD as an extension of their collar. If there’s an emergency and you end up in a dog overboard
situation, the handle on the top of the life jacket will help you bring your pal back to safety.
2. Fleas and Ticks
Small, uninhabited islands make great places to let your dog run and relieve itself. But these places are often infested with fleas and ticks. Make sure your pup has proper prevention before you go exploring ashore.
3. Porta-Potties
For longer trips, artificial grass can be used as a spot for your dog to do its business on the boat. Look for artificial turf that has a rubber
backing (most patches have a nylon layer underneath). The sublayer has several uses: for one, it will hold the urine until it can be washed instead of leaking it all over your deck. Second, the rubber has a stronger grip on the deck, keeping your pup in place when it’s relieving itself. And finally, the rubber will act as a reinforcement if you choose to install grommets or eyelets to strap your mat onto your swim platform or bow for added safety.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 39
Beaker, Koralina and James McKenna's boat dog, is the happiest tri-color Cavalier King Charles on the water.
KORALINA MCKENNA
4. Entrance and Exits
Finding a safe and effective way for your dog to climb onto your boat is of extreme importance, both for your pet’s safety and your lower back. Some of the biggest accidents happen when dogs fall in the space between a dock and the boat, and hoisting a wet dog out of the water is a significant weightlifting exercise. Some companies have created ladders and ramps to attach to your boat’s stern or swim platform to help pets climb (somewhat assisted) back onboard from the water. Other options are boarding ramps and planks that are easily set out between the dock and the boat itself. While it’s one more thing to bring with you, it’s definitely worth it.
5. Hydration
Dogs might not be too smart, but they are very thirsty. If a dog doesn’t have immediate access to fresh water, you can expect it to find something to drink in the most disgusting places on your boat. Even worse, a dog might try to drink saltwater and become ill. Make sure your dog knows where its water dish is, and keep it replenished so your pooch stays cool and hydrated throughout your travels.
MacDuff Perkins lives in Annapolis, where she is the owner of Groundswell Yoga Studio. She and her family enjoy sailing their Sabre 42 around the East Coast.
Top: The Pup Plank helps dogs scramble up onto boats when they're swimming. It has a mesh bit underneath that they can use to climb up. Dottie seemed to like it.
Left: Bruno enjoys spending time with his parents, Mark and Nancy Lambrides, on the back of the boat.
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MACDUFF PERKINS
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Dock & Dine: One Cruiser’s Faves
BY MACDUFF PERKINS
It’s the time of year when dining al fresco takes on an entirely different meaning, as restaurants up and down the Bay become meccas for outdoor gatherings. And one of the best secrets is the ease with which you can navigate the Chesapeake to find some of the best restaurants. Some are dive bars with fried food in red plastic baskets; others are formal restaurants with white linens and extra forks. In reviewing restaurants for this issue, we focused specifically on whether or not the establishment would pass the muster of a local.
It's because there’s a significant difference between the palates of “from heres” and “come heres.” Locals shudder should a crabcake ever be overcooked; families are judged upon whether there’s J.O. Spice or Old Bay on the table. And there’s absolutely no substitute for rockfish, ever.
Up and down the Bay, we found restaurants of all classes and calibers that made us excited to get out on the boat and enjoy dinner together. Wherever you are, take the opportunity to bring together friends and family and enjoy the bounty that is Chesapeake cuisine.
Dock of the Bay
9025 Cuckold Point Rd.
Sparrows Point, Maryland
It’s important to have a restaurant that knows two things: food should taste good, and it should be affordable. Luckily, Dock of the Bay, just off Hart Miller Island understands this. Mushroom caps are stuffed with crabcake; the rockfish bites appetizer could be an entire meal. If the views toward the Eastern Shore aren’t relaxing enough, a playground for the little ones gives you a moment of respite from the chaos of the cockpit before you head back out.
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COURTESY OF SHANTY GRILL
Carson’s Creekside
1110 Beech Dr.
Middle River, Maryland
There’s so much to be said for upscale dining with a side of downhome charm. And that’s what you get at Carson’s, which bills itself as a casual bar with water views. The seafood is more along the lines of stuffed rockfish and the steak is filet, but there’s also ribs and chicken, fried green tomatoes, and, of course, crabs to be had. If Middle River isn’t a big destination for you when cruising the Upper Bay, Carson’s is going to change that.
Nick’s Fish House
2600 Insulator Dr.
Baltimore, Maryland
Nick’s Fish House on the Patapsco has been a mainstay in Baltimore for ages. Known for its great views and its excellent beverages, it’s fun in the sun with fish on a bun. But within the last few years, the menu has taken some big steps away from the standard pub fare you often expect to find. Options for steamed shellfish abound, as well as upscale sandwiches and delicious homemade sides. If you’re there for happy hour, a smaller menu offers bar favorites at very reasonable prices.
The Shanty Beach Bar
21085 Tolchester Beach Rd.
Chestertown, Maryland
If you live on the Western Shore, taking your boat to Ocean City for some beach bar excitement is a bit of a hike. Luckily there are a few beach bars on Maryland’s Eastern Shore that offer a similar tiki bar vibe, and thankfully without the steep resort prices. The Shanty Beach Bar, nestled in Tolchester Marina, can be reached by car, but most everyone comes by boat. There’s almost always live music and a sunset to be had, and we love
the fact that you can be barefoot at the bar. Don’t go if you aren’t into having fun.
The Harbor Shack
20895 Bayside Ave.
Rock Hall, Maryland
Consistency is a big thing when it comes to your favorite restaurant. Perhaps that’s part of the appeal of The Harbor Shack, Rock Hall’s local dockside bar and restaurant, which is a mainstay for locals who know where to eat in town. The meticulous kitchen staff is the same every shift, and the quality always exceeds the price on the bill. We recommend ordering the Caribbean Rum Bucket and a spread of seafood appetizers and enjoy the scene before getting on your boat and heading back home.
The Point Crab House and Grill
700 Mill Creek Rd.
Arnold, Maryland
The Magothy River offers some of the most peaceful cruising on the Chesapeake. Long, idyll stretches punctuated by hidden creeks and coves offer a respite from the Bay itself. And luckily, one of the area’s best restaurants exists on Mill Creek next to Ferry Point Marina. The Point Crab House and Grill takes casual dining up a level with a modern twist on some Southern comfort food favorites. Vegetables and seafood are always fresh and in-season, and dishes are imaginative and beautiful at the same time.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 43 CRUISING
COURTESY OF CARSON’S CREEKSIDE
Steamed Mussels at Carson's Creekside
The Pier Oyster Bar and Grill
48 South River Rd. S
Edgewater, Maryland
The South River is a great place to find a quiet cove and tuck in for the night. Thankfully, there’s an excellent restaurant that makes it easy to find an excuse to not add “cooking dinner” to your evening. The Pier has a great outdoor area (heated during cooler months) with a big playground. Food is no-fuss and delicious—fish sandwiches are the stars of the show. The Pier is a great place to bring your parents and your kids alike: everyone can have a great time.
The Choptank
110 Compromise St.
Annapolis, Maryland
One of the most exciting new restaurants in Annapolis is The Choptank, a beautiful restaurant that opens directly onto Ego Alley and the harbor. While the Choptank doesn’t have its own dock, you can call ahead to Oasis Marina and secure a slip for your reservation. The Choptank’s menu is full of classics with fine dining twists, but little elements work to
elevate the cuisine to near perfection. Whether you’re looking to impress someone or be impressed yourself, the Choptank is the perfect spot.
Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen
357 Pier One Rd. Stevensville, Maryland
Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen at the Bay Bridge Marina is a phenomenal stopping point for Middle Bay adventures. Located at the base of the
Chesapeake Bay Bridge’s eastern edge, Libbey’s offers docking for diners at no extra cost and has great Adirondack chairs, games for kids, and a great menu of food and drinks to get you ready to head back out. A cozy patio upstairs makes the whole place feel more like a yacht club than a restaurant, especially with the beautiful sunset views. Prices, however, remain very reasonable.
The Narrows
3023 Kent Narrow Way
Grasonville, Maryland
For the last 30 years, this familyowned restaurant has been offering Eastern Shore cuisine at its absolute best. It’s hard to order anything other than crab (the cream of crab soup comes with additional sherry), but many of the non-seafood options will remind you of a favorite steakhouse. Docking is available on site, and you’ll see that many other diners are also taking the boat out for the day. This is one way to make a simple joyride exceptionally memorable.
Foxy’s Harbor Grille
125 Mulberry St. St. Michaels, Maryland
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COURTESY OF THE POINT CRAB HOUSE AND GRILL
COURTESY OF THE CHOPTANK
Nanny's Deviled Eggs with Crab at The Point Crab House
Steamer Platter at The Choptank
finding it by land could be considered a little tricky. Off the beaten path of Talbot Street and a hop, skip and a paddle from the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, Foxy’s is accessible by water (and water taxi) and offers great cool drinks and welcome shade after a day on the boat. Their menu includes an extensive listing of crushes, and food offerings are easy and delicious, reminiscent of your favorite beach bar in the islands.
Tiki Bar & Grill Solomons
85 Charles St. Solomons, Maryland
You don’t have to be a St. Mary’s College graduate to have a story about getting stupid at the Tiki Bar. But you also don’t have to be freshly 21 to enjoy this fantastic destination point in Solomons. The environment is chill, leaving plenty of places to settle in and enjoy the scene without
all night. And the menu runs everywhere from seductively simple crab dip with tortilla chips to fancypants Korean beef skewers with rice and vegetables. While the Tiki Bar is still our favorite place to unwind after a hot day of Southern Bay Race
Week sailing, it’s also a great place to grab lunch with friends.
Charles Street Brasserie
120 Charles St. Solomons, Maryland
We get it: seafood isn’t for everyone. And burgers are great, but sometimes you want something different. The Charles Street Brasserie in Solomons is a welcome addition, offering tapas (small plates) that reflect both Spanish influences and American classics. The restaurant itself is quaint and romantic, if your boat doesn’t exactly offer ambience. There’s a piano brunch on Sundays and great weekly specials to make your bill a little lighter. And there’s also great seafood.
Ruddy Duck Seafood and Alehouse
16800 Piney Point Rd. Piney Point, Maryland
Craft beer and fresh, local oysters. What more do we need to say? This gem on St. George’s Island brings a lot to the table, doing classic seafood
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 45 CRUISING
COURTESY OF LIBBEY’S COASTAL KITCHEN
COURTESY OF THE NARROWS
Oysters Rockefeller at The Narrows
Sushimi Tuna Tower at Libbey's Coastal Kitchen
right and without fussiness. Prices won’t break the bank, and the quality of dishes and excellent service always make for a memorable experience. Seating on the deck isn’t exactly plentiful, so grab takeout and head back to your boat to enjoy some of the best views St. Mary’s County has to offer.
Reedville Market
729 Main St.
Reedville, Virginia
There’s a distinctive, quiet calm in Virginia’s Northern Neck peninsula, with small seaside towns bringing a unique charm to the area you can’t find anywhere else. At Reedville Market, which gets its name from the fact that it used to be the town’s lone general store, you can find excellent steak, seafood, and scenery. Because the restaurant is one of the better dining establishments on the peninsula, it’s worth it to call ahead for a reservation. Coming down from Solomons or across the Bay from Tangier, Reedville Market offers tasty food in a very peaceful setting.
Merroir
784 Locklies Creek Rd.
Topping, Virginia
The Rappahannock River is a hotbed for oysters, and Merroir has the best ones. As an arm of the Rappahannock Oyster Company, Merroir bills itself as a “tasting room” rather than a restaurant per se. Tables extend into the sandy beach offering an open atmosphere, and a menu that comes practically directly from the water you’re gazing out upon. The menu itself is innovative. Oyster
stuffing is baked into a muffin and topped with a cream sauce; smoked trout dip is served with a side of naan. Merroir is unpretentious and a lot of fun for oyster connoisseurs and families alike. Reservations aren’t accepted, but since there are limited boat slips available, it’s best to call ahead and make sure you have a place to stow your craft while you dine.
The Shanty
33 Marina Rd.
Cape Charles, Virginia
Why we have to go all the way to the mouth of the Bay for this favorite spot, we’ll never understand. But The Shanty is everything you want in a dock bar: excellent catch of the day, great beverages, and food you can eat in one hand while you take a picture of the water with the other. Fish is always off-the-boat fresh and from local suppliers, and the fries are scattered with Old Bay. It’s restaurants like this that make you fall in love with living on the Chesapeake all over again.
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MacDuff Perkins lives in Annapolis, where she is the owner of Groundswell Yoga Studio. She and her family enjoy sailing their Sabre 42 around the East Coast.
COURTESY OF FOXY’S HARBOR GRILLE
COURTESY OF MERROIR
Grilled Shrimp Skewer at Foxy's Harbor Grille
Panna Cotta at Merroir
A Cruising Chef ’s Menu for Your Ideal Weekend on the Water
What is it about being outside in the fresh air that makes a person famished? I’m always hungry when I’m out on the water, as I am right now, on the hook over a gimbaled stove making more pancakes than we can eat. But that’s ok. A weekend's vacation on a boat is no time to be dieting anyway. You’ll burn so many calories swimming, paddling…whatever water sport you choose. Just climbing in and out of the dinghy to get your dog to shore
uses muscles you likely forgot you had. Now it’s time to satiate your hunger and we’ve got some ideas to help you do that.
Prepare Ahead
Almost any meal can be made in advance and taken along on your cruise. But I find it best to bring something versatile; something that can be made into a number of different meals. One of my favorites is
braised beef. It can be spiced any way you like, cooked in a pot on the stove, a pressure cooker, or sealed tight in a Dutch oven. The meat can be put on pasta for an evening meal, in sandwiches for lunches, sliders for appetizers or even dolloped on breakfast tortillas topped with a fried egg. The same can be done with pulled pork, adding a little Liquid Smoke to the braising to give it a Hawaiian spin. And definitely add BBQ sauce for a taste of the South.
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STORY AND PHOTOS BY CAROLINE FOSTER
Wild Rice Pancake
Soups and Stews
Any soup or stew can be made ahead or at anchor. Gazpacho is a good cool summer soup best made ahead so the flavors have time to mingle while underway, and you avoid the mess of chopping tomatoes on a heel. One of my favorite soups is tuna and white bean soup. Using fresh tuna and canned beans along with other vegetables, it is seemingly elegant but super easy to throw together. And don’t overlook the very inexpensive split pea soup which can be made from hardy, galley-tested ingredients like dried peas that have a long “locker” life.
Sandwiches
Have crab meat prices surpassed your budget? Try salmon patties instead. Inexpensive and easy, canned salmon can be stowed forever. They are surprisingly delicious, and kids will like them just as much as crabcakes. Hot ham and cheese, Reubens (for meat lovers), apples and brie, mushroom and Swiss (vegetarian) sandwiches are always winners. There’s something about sandwiches coming out of a galley oven that turns your boat into a cozy home.
Breakfast
With the morning sun drying the dew off the deck and the ospreys crying overhead, there is nothing more peaceful than that first cup of coffee while you make breakfast. For meat, choose breakfast sausages over bacon to avoid an overload of bacon grease with few options for discarding. Did you catch only a few crabs? Not enough for a full meal but two or three are perfect for crab frittatas or crab arepas. Arepas are a Venezuelan “tortilla” made from masarepa which can be found in most Hispanic
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 49
Split Pea Soup
Reuben in a Basket
Crab Arepa with Broken Yolk
grocers. It’s filling and can be stored indefinitely. Bake eggs in the pit holes of avocados instead of frying for extra nutrition. And of course, never overlook pancakes. I like Kodiak’s buckwheat mix that needs only water. Then pack and smother them with anything you like: blueberries and wild rice, peaches and cream, apples and almond butter.
Salads
Leave the delicate lettuces and tomatoes at home. For your weekend on the water, bring along vegetables that won’t get bruised knocking around in your icebox or food hammock. Stick with vegetables like cabbage, onions, carrots, cauliflower and beets. There are any number of salads you can create with these ingredients such as maque choux, tabbouleh, cole slaw, and orange, beet and feta salads.
Boat Gas Grills
If you have a grill on your pulpit, steaks, burgers and skewers always rule. But try something different. If you have a round grill, put a pizza stone on it. Heat it up to at least 450º, checking with your infrared temperature gauge. The pizza dough can be made from scratch (preferable) or store-bought and can be topped with any of your favorites. With the extra crispy New York style crust, it will make the best pizza you’ve ever had at anchor.
Cockpit Munchies
For chips, Pringles rule! They’re packaged in compact containers that take up a fraction of the space a chip bag does. Other great snacks that don’t blow away are any candied nuts, such as rosemary
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Prosciutto Pizza
Rosemary Cashews
Beet Salad
cashews or peanut butter-stuffed pretzel bites.
You can find these recipes on galleypirates.com. Just type key words in the search button (top right panel on your laptop; scroll down to the bottom on your cell phone) and an array of options will pop up. Have a deliciously great weekend!
Former Creative Director for Chesapeake Bay Magazine Caroline Foster is a designer and writer living in Annapolis on a sailboat with her husband. She is co-creator of the website Galley Pirates, Cooking for Cruising and Living Aboard
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Chesapeake Cocktails
BY KATHY KNOTTS
Bay boaters do not thrive on beer alone. The savvy ones keep an eclectic collection of unbreakable acrylic glasses of various shapes chilled on ice, awaiting that magical moment when the anchor is set, the nibblies are plated to pass around the cockpit, and it’s time at last for a refreshing Chesapeakethemed cocktail.
We recently joined the staff at the dockside bar at Pusser’s Caribbean Grille in Annapolis for a quick tutorial on crafting a fun selection of inspired —and inspirational—spirits.
Ginger Sea Dog
The Ginger Sea Dog is a hearty drink that came to life in the tropics, where rum is plentiful and so are sailors. This seagoing drink is similar to a Moscow mule—just swap out the vodka for Pusser’s Navy Rum. Here’s how to create Pusser’s version of a Dark and Stormy.
Ingredients:
2 ounces Pusser’s Rum
6 ounces Ginger Beer
Angostura Bitters
Lime Wedge
Directions: Place ice into a Pusser’s mug or mule mug. Add rum and ginger beer. Squeeze lime wedge over top of drink and drop into the glass. Stir briefly. Add Angostura bitters and serve.
Orange Crush
If Maryland summers were a drink, they would be an orange crush.
Ingredients:
1/2 shot Triple Sec (omit for a skinny crush)
1 shot Smirnoff Orange Vodka (plus a half shot for a skinny crush) fresh orange juice
Sprite (substitute soda water for a skinny crush) orange slice garnish
Directions:
Fill glass with ice. In a shaker, combine spirits and juice. Pour into glass and finish with soda. Garnish with orange slice.
Black-Eyed Susan
Maryland’s official flower is also its favorite cocktail in May. The Kentucky Derby has mint juleps—the Preakness
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 53 CRUISING
Ginger Sea Dog
Orange Crush
Black-Eyed Susan
Stakes has the Black-Eyed Susan. The drink was first served at the 1973 Preakness by the Harry M. Stevens Co., the longtime caterers at Pimlico Race Course.
Ingredients:
1 ounce bourbon
1 ounce vodka
1 ounce peach schnapps
2 ounces orange juice
2 ounces sour mix
Orange slice, for garnish Cherry, for garnish
Directions:
Fill glass with ice. In a shaker, combine spirits, juice and sour mix. Shake and pour into glass. Garnish with orange slice and a cherry.
Chesapeake Bloody Mary
There are many origin stories for the bloody Mary, the combination of tomato juice, vodka and sometimes outlandish garnishes. Regardless of where and when it started, it remains a popular daytime drink—said to ease hangovers and popular among boaters and brunchers.
Ingredients:
1 ounce Tito’s Vodka
George’s Bloody Mary Mix
J.O. Spice
celery stick
lime
pepperoncini
olive
Directions: Dip the rim of a glass in fresh
lime juice. Coat with crab seasoning (we recommend J.O. Spice). Add ice and one shot Tito’s Vodka. Fill with George’s Bloody Mary Mix (available in Mild or Spicy). Garnish with a celery stick, lime, pepperoncini and an olive.
Kathy Knotts is a writer, editor and digital content editor at Chesapeake Bay Magazine. She is the former editor of CBM Bay Weekly and has spent over 20 years in media. A native of Louisiana, she loves good books, good food and good cocktails.
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Chesapeake Bloody Mary
The ‘ Toys’of Summer ‘ Toys’
BY PAT PIPER
While some boaters are content with day tripping and overnight cruising, others are dedicated to more active on-the-water pursuits, many of which require boats with specific features and attributes along with the participants’ particular athletic skills, whether that entails bare-footed water skiing or simply hanging on to an inner tube for dear life. Here’s an overview of some of those pursuits as well as the boats best suited for each one.
Last year Mike Yowaiski’s family made the 225-mile trip to Lake Gaston, a 20,000-acre reservoir straddling the Virginia and North Carolina border to see his mother. Both Mike and his wife, Shannon, knew their 5-year-old son Connor was going to enjoy some time on the water in their 15-foot Sea-Doo Speedster, which they towed to the lake. They had rented a house with a dock, so the four-seater Sea-Doo was going to get a workout.
Mom had plans, too. Walking through a large we-sell-everything kind of store, she saw a towable tube. It brought back memories of her family’s time on the Patuxent River with, well, take a guess.
She arrived with a newly purchased towable tube and within an hour Connor was jumping wakes as he learned about this new thing called “a water toy.” And soon their niece Lydia was taking a turn at being towed. And yes, both Mike and Shannon jumped a
wake or two (or ten). After all, toys are designed to be fun.
They had seen these toys on the Chesapeake while aboard their 35-foot Concept center-console but hadn’t thought much about them other than
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 55
WATER SPORTS
Top: If the winds allow, Z Flight customers can get an osprey's eye view of the Bay.
Above: Rafting on a WOW Paradise.
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TOWING SAFELY
With Assistance from the BoatUS
• The person(s) being towed must wear a USCG-approved life vest intended for safety.
• Always have a spotter onboard the boat who can tell the driver if the skier has fallen, wants to speed up (thumb up) or slow down (thumb down).
• Discuss ahead of time how you intend to pick up the person you towed and give instructions on how to properly reboard.
• Turn the engine off while a skier or passenger on a towable is attempting to reboard the boat. Never use the engine or propeller as a step. Be certain the towline isn’t tangled in the prop or rudder.
• Be familiar with the water-skiing area so you can avoid areas of shallow water, submerged obstructions and other dangerous situations. Also, stay clear of beaches and swimming areas (Maryland requires staying 100 feet offshore).
• Give a wide berth to fishermen and slower moving crafts like canoes, kayaks and sailboats.
• The tow rope should not exceed 75 feet long (exceptions are made for competitive slalom skiing).
• Don’t pull a towable when it is getting dark or at night. It is hard for both the boat operator and other boaters to see the person being towed. In Maryland, you may not engage in towed sports between sunset and sunrise.
to stay out of the way. Mike is an active member of the Chesapeake Bay Power Boat Association, which had just completed a raftup to see the Blue Angels fly over Annapolis— where destination cruises are done all the time.
But a towable raft was something new. And they’re using Mom’s tube this season on the Chesapeake.
Statistics support what the Yowaiskis saw on Lake Gaston. While not having specific numbers, Annapolis Boat Shows manager Sheila Jones says there was a definite increase in water towable sales in 2022 over previous years. Manufacturer designs have gone from a single-color board (with a tow line included) to floats shaped like a watermelon, hot dog or pizza that can seat as many as three riders. Obviously, they see the fact that if a child is attracted, so too are adults.
Watersport Lessons
When he was almost 3 years old, Daniel Stecklow was pulled holding onto a small board on the South River in Edgewater, Maryland. Soon he had a pair of training skis, and today, he’s an avid slalom skier (a single water ski for both feet instead of the standard two skis). As is the case with 5-year-old Connor and his towable tube, Stecklow fell in love with this activity, as did his sister Rachel and their friends. And as we’ve learned from Connor, it was his family that made it happen. Daniel’s father Jeff moved to the South River in 1976 where he started waterskiing at age 6.
“I got experience through my dad and just fell in love with being on the water,” Jeff Stecklow recalls. “I loved the thrill of going
WATER SPORTS 56 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023
JEFF STECKLOW
Left: Daniel Stecklow started learning how to waterski at age 3 from his father Jeff on the South River. Today at age 15, he’s still out there but with a slalom ski.
Below Right: This water toy allows Z Flight customers to see local sites near Annapolis like the Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse.
across the water; there’s just so many things about it. Last month, it was about 60 degrees, and I was on the water, no other boats were out, and I just don’t mind it being cold. I couldn’t wait any longer to go. I just had to get out there.”
Jeff admits the fascination with water skis requires more from a user than a lot of hobbies. “A golfer can just go outside and find some open space or go to a nearby course,” he says. “I need a boat, water and other people.” He soon learned about a slalom ski course operated by the South River Ski Club that began about the time he first learned to ski. He joined in the early ’90s because it is one of three locations with a permit for slalom skiing. It's located near where the South River meets Highway 50. The water is always smooth, and the course is never crowded.
Fellow South River water-skier Mike Wagener started the same way. “I was 5 or 6 and my neighbors on the Rhode River took me skiing for the first time. Back then, you sat on an anchored raft holding the tow rope and the powerboat pulled you off from there. I had seen others complete their skiing by dropping the tow rope and coasting back onto the raft. Well, I was a little late dropping the rope and skied right into the raft. That was my first time and I’ve been skiing ever since.” (Mike does note he avoids sliding into rafts now and just drops into the water to be picked up).
“I just love taking young kids tubing” he continued. “I remember the joy and the pleasure I got from being pulled behind a boat and now, when I get a chance, I put kids on rafts. And I talk it up. Thumb up you want to go faster, thumb down, you want to go slower. You’re going to tell me how fast to go. Once they get confident that I’m not going to hurt
them, they turn into little monsters—‘We wanna go faster!’ I love the experience of putting kids behind my boat, whether it’s a kneeboard, or a tube or even an ‘airchair’ that comes out of the water about four or five feet.”
When you are looking from the shoreline of the Chesapeake Bay this summer, or watching from a boat,
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there’s going to be some watersports nearby. There’s a good chance you’ll hear some laughter and a “wow” or two as well. Water is one of those teachers that makes us smile.
Inflatables are a popular way to entertain and come in lots of shapes as do smiles
WATER SPORTS 58 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023
Pat Piper is a former network radio producer who has sailed and learned from the waters and the people around the Chesapeake Bay. He's still doing it and hopes to tell more stories about the uniqueness of both.
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6 BEST BOATS for Tow Sports
While some of us can remember learning to waterski on wide, wooden skis behind 14-foot runabouts with 18-hp outboards, the world of tow boats for sport has evolved considerably over the past half-century. Today, state-of-theart towboats tend to be inboardpowered with engines chosen more for thrust than for speed. These boats have specialized hull shapes, mechanical trim controls and ballast tanks, all controlled by sophisticated software to shape wakes for slalom skis, wakeboards, hydrofoil boards, barefooting and wake-surfing. At least one is powered entirely by a batteryelectric system.
Even so, simple water-skiing is still great fun, as is riding an inflatable “tow toy.” Here are some examples of towboats. The first three represent versatile boat layouts from 17 to 25 feet, with three specialized tow boats to follow. The list is meant to be suggestive more than prescriptive. And yes, it’s still possible for an adult to ride two skis and smile broadly behind a 14-foot skiff with a 15-hp outboard. You don’t have to be a watersports athlete to have fun out there this summer.
BY CAPT. JOHN PAGE WILLIAMS
Cobalt R6 Outboard
Cobalt’s 25-foot 5-inch R6 Outboard (shown above) is a quintessential family runabout. With Mercury’s 300-hp V-8 Verado, an R6 tops out in the low 50s, with efficient cruise from the mid-20s to the mid30s. True to Cobalt’s long reputation for excellence in design, engineering and construction, the R6 has a sturdy, solid feel underway, with an 18-degree running bottom curving to a sharp bow.
The forward cockpit includes an L-shaped lounge to port, with a single seat to starboard. Beneath the sole in the walkthrough between the port (head) and starboard (helm) consoles lies a long, cushioned storage space for water skis, boards and tow toys. Multifunction settees extend down both sides of the R6’s cockpit. To port, the forward end forms the companion seat, but a swinging back on a stainless-steel frame converts to an aft-facing lounge for a towsports observer. The aft section of the port settee holds a similar seatback, which swings aft to provide a forward-facing
lounge or forward to offer an aft-facing lounge for watching swimmers when the boat is at rest. The starboard settee offers the same aft-folding backrest, as well as dedicated space beneath for a carry-on cooler. A central walkway between the settees leads back to a transom swim platform. To starboard of the engine is a flip-down swim step, an ingenious, patented Cobalt feature. A telescoping ladder to port is an option.
Base MSRP for an R6 Outboard with a 300-hp Mercury Verado V-8 is $153,094. Cobalt offers a Design Your Dream section on its website to outfit an R6 with a full range of options. For information, visit Cobalt Boats or the two Chesapeake dealers:
• Bosun’s Marine, Grasonville, Md.
• Prince William Marina, Occoquan, Va.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 25'5"
Beam: 8'6"
Draft: 17.5"/32.5"
Weight: 5,300 lb
Transom Deadrise: 18 degrees
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Cobalt R6 Outboard
Cobalt R6 Specs (cont.)
Max: 350 hp
Fuel: 80 gal
Water: 10 gal
Bridge Clearance: 61.5" (104" w/ tower)
Persons: 14 (2,100 lb)
Boston Whaler 170 Montauk
Seventeen-foot Boston Whalers have always been quick and nimble enough for basic tow sport toys like water skis, wakeboards and inflatables. The current (4.0) version of the Boston Whaler’s classic center-console 17-foot Montauk is arguably the best of the series, a do-it-all utility boat that is seaworthy, safe, durable, economical and able to serve multiple tasks very well for many years. Add the 170’s optional sturdy, transom-mounted tow arch to complement its standard fiberglass swim platform with grab rail and telescoping stainless-steel ladder. Reverse the pilot seat at the helm to accommodate an observer. There are
coolers in the pilot seat, an insulated fishbox in the bow, and an optional (but highly recommended) cooler seat with cushions in front of the console for ice, beverages and snacks when the 170 is on ski duty.
Tens of thousands of people young and old(er) have learned to ski behind these boats over the model’s 60-year lifespan (and counting). Many of those boats are now serving their third generation, because families tend to hang onto them. The standard engine for this model is Mercury’s efficient FourStroke 90 with Command Thrust lower unit, which is also powerful enough for 17- to 26-knot cruising speeds (3500-4500 rpm) with a top speed of 34 knots—plenty of shove for pulling skiers. Opt for Merc’s FourStroke 115 (same basic powerhead and weight) for 20- to 28-knot cruise and 40-knot top end. Base price for the 170 Montauk is $44,009 with a FourStroke 90. Visit www.whaler.com or these dealers for more information:
• Chesapeake Whalertowne, Grasonville and Annapolis, Md.
• Chesapeake Boat Basin, Kilmarnock, Va.
• Norfolk Marine, Norfolk, Va.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 17'4"
Beam: 7'3"
Draft: 12" (engine up)
Weight: 1,700 lb (dry, w/o engine)
Transom Deadrise: 16 degrees
Transom Height: 25"
Bridge Clearance: 4'11"
Fuel: 25 gal
Max: 115 hp
Pursuit DC 246
Well-designed dual-console boats can be great choices for family ventures like tow sports as well as fishing. Pursuit’s DC 246 is a good example. The layout provides several essential features: a comfortable helm with clear sightlines, a strong engine (Yamaha’s efficient, durable F300), an aft-facing observer’s seat (an ingenious portside lounge), a sturdy aft door to a large transom platform with boarding ladder, and a rugged but easily removable tow pylon between a fullwidth stern seat and the outboard. Digital steering and controls for the outboard make for a neat installation that keeps the stern platform open. A 60-inch-long centerline locker between the consoles stores boards, tow toys and other bulky gear when not in use. There’s a big storage locker in the starboard (helm) console, along with secure racks for the tow pylon and a table for the bow cockpit.
The DC 246 has a sweet hull design that offers a best efficiency range of 19 to 28 knots (4100-4700 rpm), with a top end of 45 knots at 6000 rpm. With sharp bottom strakes and broad chines to damp all spray and 21 degrees of deadrise in the running bottom, the boat has an easy motion at rest as well as at speed. At 25 feet 8
Boston Whaler 170 Montauk
60 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023
Pursuit DC 246
inches length overall, it’s large and able enough to handle any weather a prudent Chesapeake skipper should venture out in from the Virginia Capes to the Susquehanna Flats. With its dual-console layout, the DC 246 serves well for pure boat rides, picnics, and tow sports as well as fishing. Nicely equipped with a hardtop, electronics, and other useful options, Pursuit’s DC 246 comes in at an estimated $195,000. Visit www.pursuitboats.com or these Pursuit dealers for more information:
• Bosun’s Marine, Grasonville, Md.
• North Point Yacht Sales, Gloucester Point, Va.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 25'8"
Beam: 8'6"
Draft: 21"/35" (engine up/down
Weight: 6,138 lb
Transom Deadrise: 21 degrees
Bridge Clearance: 7'2"
Fuel: 118 gal
Water: 20 gal
Waste: 6 gal
Max: 300 hp
Grady-White Adventure 218
Grady-White Boats has been building compact “walkaround” cuddy cabin models for 49 years, and they have been among the company’s best sellers ever since. The Adventure 218, introduced last year, shows updated styling, with a curved windshield,
increased bow flare and a Euro-shaped transom with twin swim platforms. There’s a telescoping ladder on the starboard platform.
The Adventure 218 still offers a forward V-berth and a head, along with an optional modern fiberglass hardtop on a sturdy, painted aluminum frame. On deck are helm and companion seats with cushioned, aft-facing “mezzanine” seats immediately behind, over a pair of insulated cooler/fishboxes. The setup is simple, with tight-fitting features and few moving parts. For example, twin ingenious, patented, cushions in the transom corners offer secure seats with cushioned backs for passengers. Turn over the cushions, though, and they become non-skid steps to the swim platforms, with the seat backs turned inward on sturdy pipe bases. With a 250-hp Yamaha, the 218 cruises happily between 24 and 34 mph (3400-4500 rpm), with a top end around 45 mph (5900 rpm) and plenty of shove for towing. The engine’s Yamaha digital electronic control system results in neat rigging. The transom’s twin boarding platforms, optional ski pylon, optional freshwater shower and folding ladder make the 218 a natural
WATER SPORTS Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 61
Grady-White Adventure 218
Mastercraft XT23
for watersports, with the two aftfacing fishbox seats for observers.
Nicely equipped with a hardtop, electronics, and other useful options, the Adventure 218 costs around $150,000. For more information, visit www.gradywhite.com or one of the three Chesapeake dealers:
• Tri-State Marine, Deale, Md., www.tristatemarine.com
• Southeastern Marine, Richmond, Va., www.SoutheasternMarine.net
• Norfolk Marine, Norfolk, Va., www.norfolkmarine.com.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 21'3" (23'3" w/ swim platforms)
Beam: 8'6"
Draft: 16"
Cockpit Depth: 25"
Weight: 3,125 lb (estimated, w/o engine)
Transom Deadrise: 19 degrees (SeaV2 progression)
Bridge Clearance: 5'10" (7'7" w/ hardtop)
Fuel: 100 gal
Water: 10 gal (optional)
Max: 250 hp
Mastercraft XT23
MasterCraft has been building inboard water sport boats since 1968, with a reputation for high quality, attention to safety, and innovation. This year’s XT23 offers a styled V-hull with three stabilizing fins on the keel and a 365-hp, direct-injected, freshwater cooled 5.3-liter Ilmor V-8 engine turning a 2:1 V-drive for plenty of towing power. This engine is part of a comprehensive MasterCraft Saltwater Solutions package for boats headed to brackish and saltwater.
A boat for hard-core tow sports, the XT23 offers a wide range of wake shapes to accommodate all sorts of endeavors and levels of expertise, as well as a ProStar clean wake for skiing and pure boat rides. The heart of the range is the SurfStar system, which combines the hull shape, a ballast system that can take on as much as 3,300 pounds of water, a mechanical wake-shaping system at the transom, and software to coordinate the system’s elements. A touchscreen at the helm allows the skipper and rider to visualize a wake shape, fine-tune it, and after successfully riding it, even save it as a favorite Custom Surf wave profile for the next ride.
Of course, any self-respecting towboat needs colorful hull graphics, comfortable seats for a posse of cheerleaders, a strong stereo system, an arch with racks for boards and booming speakers and a broad swim platform. For those essentials, MasterCraft offers a large range of options for customization. MSRP for the XT23 is $180,533. For more information, visit MasterCraft, Vonore, TN, or its Chesapeake dealer, Annapolis Watersports, Edgewater, Md.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 23'4"
Beam: 8'6"
Draft: 30"
Weight: 5,250 lb
Ballast: 3,300 lb (SurfStar System)
Fuel: 79 gal
Seating: 16 people
Ingenity Super Air Nautique GS22E
Here’s a look at one direction for watersports in a carbon-neutral future. Ingenity Electric is a subsidiary of Watershed Innovations, a division of Correct Craft. The Super Air Nautique GS22E is an all-electric version of the company’s gasoline-powered Super Air Nautique GS22. It offers all of the same plush accommodations as its sister, including seats, arch, board racks and stereo, but its Ingenity electric motor turns out massive, instant torque that runs through a low 2.84:1-geared V-drive to a large 4-blade propeller with an 18” diameter. There’s more than enough tractor-like pull to generate waves even when the 2,250 pound ballast tanks are full.
Between Ingenity’s software and Nautique’s wake-shaping technology, the GS22E allows a skipper and rider to shape its wake for specific tow toys
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Ingenity Super Air Nautique GS22E
and expertise (or lack of it), working through a large touchscreen display at the helm. That software also allows the skipper to monitor all of the boat’s vital signs, including instantaneous battery level and range. Top speed is about 32 knots, with a 50-minute continuous runtime, but cruising speed is most efficient at 17 to 21 knots with about 80 continuous minutes running. Based on experience from the two years that the GS22E has been available to the public, those performance specs translate to two to three hours runtime. With a supercharger, that means an active morning on the water, a plug-in during a long lunch to rest up legs and arms, and another active session in the afternoon. Plug in overnight and go again the next day. Note that there’s no need to refuel and the seasonal maintenance is vastly lower, with far fewer moving parts. Plus as battery technology and software evolve, this all-electric towboat is readily reprogrammable. MSRP for Ingenity Electric's Nautique GS22E is $312,952. Stay tuned.
SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 24'2" (incl. stern platform)
Beam: 8'4"
Draft: 27"
Weight: 5,900 lb
Ballast: 2,250 lb
Seating: 11 people
Battery Size: 124 kWh
Gear Ratio: 2.8:1
Average Runtime: 2-3 hrs.
Charge Time: AC: 10 hrs. @ 240V/50A; DC: 4 hrs. @ 25kW;
Supercharger: 1.5 hrs. @ 80kW
Catalina 425
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Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 63
Editor-at-Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.
True North 34 OE In Stock
Traversing the Bay, Top to Bottom
The Chesapeake Bay watershed is a paddler’s paradise. Whether you thrill at the whitewater rapids of her Western Shore tributaries as the streams tumble down Appalachian mountainsides or prefer to drift through the serene marshes of the Eastern Shore, you’ll find a lifetime of places to explore by kayak, canoe, standup paddleboard or whatever craft you can propel under your own power. The possibilities are virtually endless. Here are some places to start.
BY CHRIS HOPKINSON
Ihave a unique perspective on the Chesapeake Bay. On Sept 26, 2021, I completed a nine-day, 207-mile adventure standup paddling its entire length from Havre de Grace to the Atlantic Ocean to help raise money for Oyster Recovery Partnership.
It was both a grueling effort and an unforgettable experience that filled me with more appreciation for the beauty of the Bay and put me on a mission to leave it better than I found it.
We’re so fortunate to have the Bay in our backyard providing some of the most picturesque paddling in the world. I’ve paddled with dolphins, watched eagles soar above, surfed some Bay rollers, paddled near historic towns and been taken back to a time when the Chesapeake was run by shoremen.
Any day on the water is a good one and there are hundreds of great paddling spots on the Bay. I’ve highlighted below some of my
favorite destinations and how to best enjoy them.
Havre de Grace represents the diversity of the Bay. The water is crystal clear to 10 feet or more. You almost feel like you could reach down and grab fish from the grasses underneath. It’s hard to believe
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PADDLING
Above: Chris Hopkinson and a cruising companion on their 207-mile paddle down the entire length of the Chesapeake Bay.
KATIE SHERIDAN
you’re on the same body of brackish, murkier water found farther south. The Eastern Shore seems to rise like a mountain on the opposite side. The whole experience is like paddling a lake.
Concord Point Lighthouse is a great launching point. There’s parking and a public pier with a ramp down to the water. Start at high tide. There’s a large reef of grass that’s like paddling through mud when it’s low tide. The reef extends from the shoreline about half a mile out. Head straight towards the Eastern Shore, then south and around the Susquehanna National Wildlife Refuge, a small island just north of Aberdeen. You should get a nice little push from the Susquehanna River flowing into the Bay. If you need a little extra motivation, treat yourself to Bomboy’s Homemade Ice Cream after you get back to shore.
Rock Hall might be the nicest harbor on the Bay. It’s well-protected from any wind and has great waterfront restaurants, natural surroundings and minimal boat traffic. You can go in any direction once you’re out of the harbor or just enjoy paddling around Rock Hall.
Launch from Green Lane Boat Ramp next to Haven Harbor South.
You might not want to leave Haven Harbor once you’re there. They have a great beach with fire pits, a restaurant and a kayak launch. You can go south on the Bay out of Rock Hall towards Eastern Neck Wildlife Refuge, about 6 miles one way. Or head north about 2.5 miles and head into Swan Creek, another well-protected harbor on the other side of Rock Hall.
Wye Island is like paddling in a national park. It’s 14 miles to circumnavigate the entire island and 5 if you go just past the Wye Island Road bridge and back. You’ll see plenty of wildlife along the way and likely no one else. It’s also mostly protected from any wind direction, so you’ll rarely have any chop. You can try a paddle and hike or picnic. Wye Island comprises 2,800 acres with hiking trails throughout. Check out the trail map online, paddle up to one of the trails with beach access and explore or just relax. Launch from Wye Landing boat ramp. There’s a small beach area on the left hidden by some grasses where you can walk into the water.
The Honga River is one of the few places on the Bay where time seems to have stood still. You enter via Fishing Creek, passing under the Hoopers Island Bridge as if the bridge itself is
your gateway to the past. The river is serene with birds, living shorelines, small beaches and virtually no boat traffic. There’s a quiet solitude to the Honga that brings you back to the Bay’s past.
You can do a nice 9-mile loop circumnavigating Upper Hooper’s Island starting and finishing at Tylers Cove Boat Ramp. You’ll pass Old Salty’s as you paddle around Hoopers Island on the Bay side. Head back there to enjoy the views and a welldeserved snack and beverage after your paddle.
We’re heading a little farther south for this one, but it’s well worth the trip. Have you ever paddled around sunken ghost ships? Well, here’s your chance. Kiptopeke State Park in Virginia is home to a fleet of partially sunken concrete WWII supply ships that lie right off the beach. There’s a story behind why they used concrete for the ships and how they ended up in the Bay. I encourage you to explore the ships and their history.
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Participants in last year's Bay Paddle raced 45-miles from Rock Hall to Cambridge, Maryland to support clean water initiatives.
EASTERN
SHORE DRONE PHOTOGRAPHY
Ghost ships aren’t the only attraction on the southern Eastern Shore. Cape Charles is a true beach town on the Chesapeake. It has historic homes with wraparound porches, shops, a great brewery, one of the largest public beaches on the Bay and is entirely golf cart friendly. It’s a can’t-miss weekend destination even if you’re not paddling.
My 200-plus-mile route down the Bay was along the Eastern Shore, so it’s hard for me to not be biased about its beauty. However, I trained along the Western Shore and Jonas and Anne Catharine Green Park in Annapolis was one of my favorites.
I look for three things when seeking out a new paddle spot: parking, a beach launch and cool things to see along the shoreline. Jonas Green checks all three, plus paddling under a large bridge is always fun. Jonas’s parking lot gets crowded, so get there early. Paddle up the Severn River towards the bridge and make your way to St. Helena Island. It’s just over 11 miles roundtrip and offers a unique real estate tour. You’ll pass some incredible waterfront homes and neighborhoods such as Sherwood Forest. Refuel after your paddle with a breakfast burrito from Rise Up in the Annapolis Market House.
Nothing beats being on the Bay. You feel both connected to its beauty and disconnected from everything on land. That’s why we all enjoy it as much as we do. I still get goosebumps just looking at it as I drive over the Bay Bridge. So get on the water, invite others to join you, explore and do what you can to leave the Bay better than you found it.
Chris Hopkinson is the founder of Bay Paddle, an annual paddle race celebrating the Bay and benefiting Oyster Recovery Partnership, Waterkeepers Chesapeake and Chesapeake Conservancy. The race has raised nearly $400,000 in three years.
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Ode to a CANOE
BY CAPT. JOHN PAGE WILLIAMS
The Marsh Arab is a 17-foot Grumman canoe with several decades of history paddling all over the Chesapeake’s tidal rivers and creeks. For seven years in the late 1970s and early ’80s, she was my office, five days a week between midMarch and mid-December as we offered one-, two-, and three-day field trips to school classes and adult groups under the aegis of the Chesapeake Bay Foundation’s environmental education program. Those people paddled eight of her sisters, which traveled stacked on a trailer behind the pickup truck that carried her.
Where did we go? Everywhere, at all seasons except the dead of winter. She has explored the cool, fresh headwaters of the Choptank’s King’s Creek, the wild rice marshes of the Chickahominy’s Gordon’s Creek, Swan Creek hard by the Susquehanna Flats, the Big Salt Marsh at Poquoson, and the salt marsh at the mouth of Swanscut Creek, where it meets Chincoteague Bay. We’ve spent over
400 days on the Patuxent’s Mattaponi Creek, just below Jug Bay.
She has hauled dry clothes, firstaid kits, water quality analysis gear, a depth sounder/fishfinder, a 30-foot minnow seine on 6-foot poles, and two kinds of fyke nets (bank-pole and anchored), which we set to catch everything from perch, carp and largemouth bass to occasional snapping turtles and diamondback terrapins. She is stable enough that I could stand to throw a cast net for peanut menhaden. Later, in semiretirement, she spent more of her time on the Severn River, prowling underwater grass beds in warm weather, looking for white perch and occasional rockfish. In winter, she was my taxi for wade-fishing for chain pickerel. She taught my daughter, Kelly, to paddle, and soon will teach her daughters, Elizabeth and Mary Page, who will become her new owners.
If paddling a kayak is like driving a sports car, then the Marsh Arab and her kin perform more like pickup trucks, but that’s the point. These boats evolved in North America precisely for their utility, especially for load-carrying. Yes, my cargo on CBF
trips was unusual, but consider how the same capability serves a family with a pair of small children or a couple who enjoy paddling together, especially on camping trips. Solo paddling? No law restricts the occupant to a single paddle. I frequently used a two-piece, 9-footlong double blade when going solo in the Marsh Arab. Speed for that setup is comparable to that of a strong tandem crew, and control in headwinds (a frequent condition on the Chesapeake’s tidal creeks and rivers) is outstanding.
No one would accuse a 17-foot aluminum canoe of being a classic beauty, though the Marsh Arab’s lines follow those of a turn-of-the-20thcentury wood-and-canvas model known for all-around utility. Nor is she super-fast. On the other hand, she is seaworthy, stable, outlandishly durable, virtually maintenance-free, and supremely useful. She has enriched my life and those of many other people. I’m delighted to send her on to a new generation.
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 67
Editor-at-Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.
Above Right: CBM' s editor Jefferson Holland (then age 10) and his big brother, Richard, on a wilderness paddle in a 17-foot Grumman with their dad, Carlyle.
WM. C. HOLLAND
WM. C. HOLLAND
Car-top Options for Paddle-able Boats
(or, how to get your kayak from your house to the water)
BY MARK HENDRICKS
There is nothing quite like exploring the Chesapeake region by water in a kayak. Or perhaps you’re more of a canoe person. These vessels are the perfect passport to the vast recreation opportunities afforded here. Just grab, go, explore, and repeat. Simple enough. But what do you do to transport said vessel? That is simple, too: a vehicle and some type of rack.
A plethora of options are available to purchase through retail giant Amazon but also through traditional brick-and-mortar stores such as REI or a paddling outfitter. I like
inspecting essential gear in-person before I buy so I prefer to visit a dedicated outdoor store.
Canoes are always loaded on top of your vehicle's roof rack upside down with the hull at the top. Paddlers use either rope or cam straps to secure the boat through the crossbars (if you don’t have them, I highly recommend you purchase a pair). Most paddlers I know prefer the cam straps due to ease. Rope is fine too, but if you plan to frequently get on the water then good cam straps will be your best friend. If traveling long distances you will want to tie the bow and stern as well.
Whatever you do, don’t use bungee cords. Since they stretch so well, one good bump could provide you with a glimpse of your boat skidding down the highway in your rear-view mirror.
No roof rack? Fear not, as you can still commute with your precious boat. Dedicated foam blocks (or even pool noodles) can be
PADDLING 68 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com | Weekends on the Water 2023
COURTESY OF UNSPLASH BY GLÁUBER SAMPAIO ON
Right: Stand-up paddle boarders cruise past the historic Concord Lighthouse in Havre de Grace, Maryland.
used to prevent scratches on the roof. Straps or rope are then run through the car’s windows so it can hold the canoe tight.
When transporting a kayak, the same principles apply—using cam straps and a roof rack—but there are a few more options available. These are J-racks, saddles, and stackers. Technically these could be used for canoes as well but I’ve only used them for kayaks.
The most popular is the J-rack and for good reason: they are very easy to set up. Your kayak is placed on its side at a 45-degree angle and then strapped to the vehicle. This method also works well if you are hauling two kayaks.
The saddle rack is a padded system that is placed below the hull and will allow you to move your kayak in its horizontal position. This is a good option if you will be leaving your car indoors and/or in a tight space.
Finally, the stacker rack is only appropriate if you plan on moving multiple kayaks at once. Of course, the kayaks will have to be moved in a vertical position but it makes sense if you have multiple boaters traveling together.
It goes without saying to make sure to practice setting up whatever option you use to transport your precious vessel. And double-check those straps!
Weekends on the Water 2023 | ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 69
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66 2021 CNB 66 HULL # 18 $2,550,000 65 2023 Jeanneau Yachts 65 Hull # 7 Miami .. $2,480,000 60 2024 Jeanneau Yachts 60 - Fall Show Boat.......... CALL 55 2024 Jeanneau Yachts 55 - Fall Show Boat.......... CALL 51 1951 Kyntyell Custom Classic ....................... $140,000 51 2017 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 519 $395,000 49 2023 Jeanneau 490 # 168 In Stock CALL 48 2023 Excess Catamaran 15 # 14 In Stock ............. CALL 45 1983 Bristol 45.5 ............................................ $98,000 44 1980 F&C 44 ................................................. $129,000 44 2005 Kadey Krogan 44 ................................. $599,000 44 2014 Jeanneau 44 DS ..................................... $275,00 44 2023 Jeanneau 440 # 390 In Stock CALL 43 1984 Post Sportfish $115,900 42 2003 Sabre 426 ............................................ $295,000 41 2023 Jeannneau 410 # 242 In Stock .................... CALL 40 1995 Regal Commodore ................................. $94,900 40 2004 Menorquin120 ..................................... $219,000 40 2022 Nimbus T11 # 186 In Stock .......................... CALL 40 2022 Excess 12 # 29 In Stock $670,000 40 2023 Nimbus C11 # 60 ......................................... CALL 40 2023 Nordic Tug 40 # 12 Sept Arrival ................... CALL 39 2024 Legacy 12 On Order Oct 2023 ...................... CALL 39 2024 Tartan 395 # 12 On Order ............................ CALL 38 1984 Sabre 38 MK I $68,000 38 1988 Sabre 38 MKII $120,000 38 2004 Sabre 386 ............................................ $198,500 38 2023 Jeanneau 380 In Stock ................................ CALL 37 1987 Pacific Seacraft 37 ............................... $100,000 37 1999 PacificSeacraft 37 - Sea Sprite ............. $150,000 37 2003 PacificSeacraft 37 - Odyssa .................. $190,000 37 2007 Four Winns 378 Vista $165,000 37 2023 Excess Catamaran 11 # 75 In Stock CALL 36 1987 Sunrise 36 .............................................. $64,000 36 2000 Cruisers 3672 ......................................... $98,900 36 2003 Beneteau 36 Center Cockpit .................. $99,900 36 2023 Tartan 365 # 5 Arriving In September ........ CALL 35 1972 Hallberg Rassey $45,900 35 1980 Bruno & Stillman 35 .............................. $79,000 35 1993 Tartan 3500 ........................................... $99,000 34 1977 Tartan 34c ............................................. $45,500 34 1998 Pacific Seacraft 34 .............................. $129,000 34 2023 Jeanneau 349 # 841 In Stock ...................... CALL 33 2006 WELLCRAFT 330 COASTAL $99,000 32 2000 Catalina 320 $67,000 32 2008 Eastport 32 .......................................... $329,000 32 2011 Eastport 32 .......................................... $339,000 31 1989 Pacific Seacraft 31 - IMARI ..................... $80,000 31 1997 Camano Trawler .................................... $89,500 31 2000 Beneteau 311 ........................................ $50,000 31 2007 Pacific Seacraft 31 - Sand Piper $150,000 30 1992 Wilbur 30 - Scout $138,000 30 2022 Ocean Sport 30 # 123 In Stock .............. $539,500 29 2022 Nimbus T9 #95 In Stock .............................. CALL 29 2023 Nimbus W9 #238......................................... CALL 27 2023 Nimbus T8 .................................................. CALL 24 1987 Pacific Seacraft 24 $55,000 JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 440 ALSO IN STOCK: 349 | 380 | 410 | 490 EXCESS 11 ALSO IN STOCK: EXCESS 12 EXCESS 15 Jeff Jordan Broker 410.320.5183 Rod Rowan CPYB 703.593.7531 Dave van den Arend CPYB 443.850.4197 Mike Titgemeyer CPYB 410.703.7986 Dave Townley CPYB 410.271.5225 Erin Townley Broker 410.507.0714 Gordon Bennett CPYB 410.739.4432 Dan Bacot CPYB 757.813.0460 Rob Summers Broker - Solomons 443.771.4467 BOATS IN STOCK | SPECIAL PRICING AVAILABLE Annapolis H 410.269.0939 Solomons H 443.906.0321 www.CrusaderYachts.com
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