Fashion Forecasting and Business Trends Journal




FORECASTING AND BUSINESS TRENDS JOURNAL A/W 2016 - S/S 2017 FOOTWEAR

CHELSEA CHIU

 

2016 TREND FOOTWEAR

Ballerina

Source: ELLE [Image 1: Marni, Image 2: Aquazzura and Image 3: Valentino]

The earliest Ballet flats can be traced from the 16th century.

Today, it makes people forget that Ballet is a cruel art, it brings people how comfortable feel when they wear this kind of shoes.

Through many years, Ballet flats developed a variety of categories and updated for winter boot silhouettes such as Ballerina boots, lace-up ankle boots, leather shoes. They maintain some significant elements: comfortable appearance design, self-tie wrap-around ankle straps or ghillie-inspired lace-up fronts.

Source: WGSN.Mulberry

From the fashion show in this fall, ribbon ties became longer for wrapping around the ankles. Except flat style, platform or chunk heels seems to be applied more than before. In addition, designers used leather instead of other softer fiber. It made the shoes more suitable in the colder weather.

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Elisabetta Franchi, Image 2: Marc Jacobs and Image 3: Prada]

The Valentino runway was full of the Ballerina style footwear in this season. Except using wider and longer strap, they also try to add some mental elements like chain to replace common fabric. Additionally, some boots use metal eyelets to add a subversive twist. It makes Ballet shoes have more different variation.

Unlike other shoes, the Ballerina will extend its popularity in Fall 2016/17. There are many consumers wear lace-up sandals in this summer, and this trend will influence consumers continually because the Ballerina’s changeability. The consumer won’t stop wearing this kind of shoes in the next season, contrarily, they just need to choose a different category of footwear or add a little bit element such as pantyhose and they will find how easy to wear the Ballerina style to create winter fashion outfit.

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Mulberry, Image 2: Valentino, Image 3: Nicole Miller and Image 4: Valentino]

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 1 | Sep 24 2016 [1] ELLE. Retrieved Sep 23, 2016, from http://www.elle.com/ [2]WGSN. Retrieved Sep 23, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w [3] Vogue. Retrieved Sep 24, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

Ankle BOOTS

2016 TREND FOOTWEAR

Source: ELLE [Image 1: Valentino, Image 2:Isabel Marant Étoile, Image 3: Maryam Nassir Zadeh and Image 4: Sergio Rossi]

The ankle boot is a tried-and-true classic, most of them have the familiar silhouette. If you observe the runway in this season or people walk on the street, you will be surprised that everywhere is awash with ankle boots. In this fall, there are some elements make these boots have a brand new collection.

For example, booties that rise an inch or so above the knobby ankle bone. The Tall Ankle Boot becomes another trend in Fall 2016/17.

Boot’s height is no longer just the same as ankle, but it turns into higher.

Additionally, the texture of shoes transferred to use stretch suede, leather, or velvet for a sleek line.

Especially velvet was widely used in this season such as Steve Madden Edit Bootie or Stuart Weitzman Clinger Boots. Heavy block heels are also a trend in selfcovered material or stacked wood.

It makes women walk steady and feel comfortable when they wear it.

Besides, toe shapes look best in almond and pointy silhouettes, so that most ankle boots have this feature.

Source: Vogue.Topshop Unique

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Maison Margiela, Image 2: Proenza Schouler and Image 3: 3.1 Phillip Lim]

No matter skirts or pants, ankle boots can fit on various types of apparel.

Even dress can still wear it and it won’t look uncoordinated. Much easier way is to pair your ankle boots with trousers. You can tuck the hems in or just cover the shoes. The trousers can be tight or wide depend on what kind of style you like. Both of them could be very suitable to wear it. According to different outfits, you can choose varied types of boots to create own personality.

Source: Pinterest

Also, different ankle boot’s designers put distinct details into their designs.

For instance, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the current designers of Proenza Schouler, used lace-up on the back of shoes for decoration. However, Phillip Lim, the decade designer of 3.1 Phillip Lim, used zipper on the back to make shoes easier to wear and the silhouette looked simpler. Consumers can buy what they’re interested depends on brand’s design.

Source: Pinterest

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 2 | Oct 1 2016 [1] ELLE. Retrieved Sep 30, 2016, from http://www.elle.com/ [2] Pinterest. Retrieved Oct 1, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [3] Vogue. Retrieved Sep 30, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

2016 TREND FOOTWEAR

 

Over-the-Knee

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Fendi, Image 2: Moschino, Image 3: Giorgio Armani and Image 4: Roksanda llincic]

Over-the-knee boots are long boots that fully or partly cover the knee. Originally it created as a man's riding boot in the 15th century, in the latter 20th century, the style was redefined as a fashion boot for women. Over-theknee boots are also used as a work boot in circumstances requiring additional protection for the legs such as fishing waders. In 1990, Karl Lagerfeld had included thigh-length satin boots in his Fall/ Winter Couture collection for Chanel, using the boots as an alternative to leggings, and overthe-knee styles were intermittently popular throughout the first decade of the 21st century.

In Fall 2016/17, high over-the-knee boot styles continue as a key item.

The boots are preferred blocky mid-heels than high heels, keep upper designs simple using the chamois, suede or leather to provide textural differences, stretch fabrics work well for tighter and more fitted styling.

Source: Vogue.Fenty x Puma

 

Source: Vogue [Image 1: McQ, Image 2: Veronica Beard, Image 3: Pamella_Roland and Image 4: Altuzarra]

While over-the-knee boots have previously been seen as a more directional item, mid-heel heights and more approachable materials and styles transform this into a commercial item. Uppers in leather and velvet-stretch both work particularly well for this season. The boots can perfectly apply to different outfits, but it’s very important how to wear them correctly. For example, blue skinny jeans and over-the-knee boot is a classical combination, but not everyone fits in this street style. Using the similar color can better solve this problem such as black jeans or leggings with black boots.

Using loose top with tight underside is another tip. For instance, oversize outerwear, knitwear, sweaters or shirts are good items to match over-the-knee boots. Besides, wide skirts or dresses are also recommended to wear with the boots.

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 3 | Oct 6 2016 [1] Pinterest. Retrieved Oct 6, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Oct 5, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w [3] Vogue. Retrieved Oct 6, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

Source: Pinterest

 

Urban street

2016 TREND FOOTWEAR

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Valentino, Image 2: Alexander Wang, Image 3: Ujoh and Image 4: DKNY]

Gritty Urban Street looks are the standout theme from the New York catwalks. It has different names but similar style of shoes such as Biker boots, Hiker boots or Urban boots. Most heavy street boots include everything from thick metal hardware and utility-style lacing to weighted black rubber bottoms. In Fall 2016/17, their soles are extrathick in black rubber with heavy lug patterns. Designers also consider more utility elements, add a sporty edge, in the form of eyelets and corded laces.

Buckles also become an important decorative component.

Most urban street boots use large and wide buckles for decoration. Speed-lace systems and chunky lug soles are borrowed from hiking boots, and the shape is combined with industrial hardware drawn from stomping biker boots. The material uses leather to make shoes have metal texture, but this season tries more sporty elements to make people feel comfortable when they wear it.

Source: Vogue.MSGM

 

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Louis Vuitton, Image 2: Fausto Puglisi, and Image 3 : Prada]

No matter Hiker boots or Biker boots, Urban Street is a prevalent style of shoes that most people can see on the street look. The pictures on the left, Cara Delevingne, an English fashion model and actress, is a representative individual of urban street. She is perfectly playing the outfits with this boots. For example, skinny jeans and urban boots with biker jacket is a classical combination, you can also wear mini skirt or shorts to create a different feeling.

Source: Pinterest

Although most urban street still prefers using black, in this season, some brands try to put light color or complicated pattern such as Burberry, their designer Christopher Bailey made urban street transfer a new appearance by various colors and fancy pattern. Louis Vuitton and Prada, both of them add speed-lace systems to make boots like sports shoes. This change provides people not only fashionable but also comfortable footwear choice.

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Public School and Image 2: Burberry]

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 4 | Oct 12 2016 [1] Pinterest. Retrieved Oct 12, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Oct 12, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w [3] Vogue. Retrieved Oct 12, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

2016 A/W FOOTWEAR TREND

 

Mary-Jane Pumps Source: WWD [Image 1: Etro, Image 2: Altuzarra, and Image 3: Valentino]

Source : WGSN.Gucci

Mary Jane, also known as bar shoes, is an American term for a closed, low-cut shoe with one or more straps across the instep.

Classic Mary Jane for children are typically made of black leather or patent leather, have one thin strap fastened with a buckle or button, a broad and rounded toebox, low heels, and thin outsoles. Originally worn by both sexes, they began to be perceived as being mostly for girls in the 1930s in North America and the 1940s in Europe. They were also popular with women in the 1920s.

Today, Mary Jane becomes a prevalent item. Appearances of shoes change a lot than before, platform or high heels replace the previous chunky heels. A wide single strap emphasizes the new, sturdy silhouette. They use different buckles or more than one strap to manipulate the shoes and create various MaryJane style. This innovation makes shoes own more fashionable and abundant categories.

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Prada, Image 2: Anna Sui, and Image 3 : Bottega Veneta]

On the materials, most pumps still use leather, but some designers of brand try to use the velvet such as Etro, Dolce&Gabbana, Anna Sui, and Simone Rocha to present a different texture. Actually, plush velvet emerges as a key materials trend in Fall 2016/17, and fits neatly within the season's historical and romantic themes. Animal print is also another trend in this season. Some designers such as Alessandro Michele, a creative director of Gucci, use zebra to be the shoes pattern. Mary Katrantzou uses snakeskin and leopard print on shoe’s collections.

In addition, there are some key colors of Mary-Jane pumps such as blush pink, black, winter wines, and sweet reds. If you look different brands’ runways, you will be surprised how these colors show up frequently. Undoubtedly, these colors are not only the trend of Mary-Jane, but the trend of footwear in this season.

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Gucci, Image 2: Dolce & Gabbana, Image 3: Mary Katrantzou, and Image 4: Simone Rocha]

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 5 | Oct 27 2016 [1] WWD. Retrieved Oct 25, 2016, from http://wwd.com/accessories-news/footwear/17-mary-jane-shoes-fall-10404797/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Oct 25, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w [3] Vogue. Retrieved Oct 26, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

 

Heeled Mule

2017 S/S FOOTWEAR TREND

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Creatures of Comfort, Image 2: Rag & Bone, Image 3: Opening Ceremony, and Image 4: 3.1 Phillip Lim]

Mule, a French word, is a style of shoe that is backless and often closed-toed. Mules can be any heel height, from flat to high. High-heeled mules were a popular indoor shoe style of the 18th century, influenced by the Patten, a backless overshoe of the 16th century. By the early 20th century, mules were often associated with prostitutes. In the early 1950s, Marilyn Monroe, a famous American actress and model, popularized the shoe and helped break its poor reputation. Mules began getting popularity in the 1950s and early 1960s. In the late 1990s, its opentoed form appeared and began to dominate the shoe market for women.

In 2017 Spring/Summer, mule will bring its prevalence from 2016 to next year. Unlike previous trend such as flat mule and open-toed form, designers prefer heeled mule and pointy-toe in this season. Many luxury brands develop their footwear including heeled mules with pointytoe shape.

Source : Vogue.Tibi

 

During the 16th century, Mule is one of the most popular shoes amongst the men. At that time, women were not allowed to wear open shoes because it was considered scandalous. After hundred years later, the closed-toed heel began to be worn by some women in the 17th century. The shoes were made of silk and satin and some had rich embroidery on them.

Early 17th C. Lady's Mules

A famous painting by Edouard Manet, Olympia (shown on left) was painted of a prostitute wearing nothing but mule shoes in 1865. The painting became a great controversy and offense during that era.

However, mules became extremely popular in today’s world.

The one given most notoriety for wearing Mules was Marilyn Monroe.

[1] http://aands.org/raisedheels/Lesson6/1620mules.php [2] http://www.imageconsultingschool.com/history-lesson-on-shoes/

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Céline, Image 2: Dolce & Gabbana, Image 3 : Nina Ricci and Image 4: Laura Biagiotti]

Actually, the Chanel heeled mule was a hot item recently before. You can see this shoe’s pictures on the left, there were lots of show-goers wearing Chanel mules during the SS17 shows.

From this situation we can see how popular of this footwear. Due to its simple and full of texture design, with their signature black toe cap and intricate pearl-adorned heel, this shoes can fit on various outfits easily.

Therefore, it’s not surprised why there were so many women have one pair of Chanel heeled mule.

Source: Pinterest

In addition, heeled mules with pointy-toe can extend length of legs and make your legs look longer. Wearing different kinds of pant such as jeans, trousers, or culottes with mules is the most popular outfit. If you wear long dress or skirts, they can still present perfectly. This year, open-toed mules with chunky heels were hot item. In the next season, fashion designers try to give mules other silhouettes such as stiletto heels, snakeskin pattern and suede texture to provide consumers more variation.

Source: Pinterest

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 6 | Nov 3 2016 [1] Pinterest. Retrieved Nov 3, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Nov 1, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w/S_S_17/25652 [3] Vogue. Retrieved Nov 2, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

2017 S/S FOOTWEAR TREND

Babouche

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Acne Studios, Image 2: Dolce&Gabbana, Image 3: Alexander Wang, and Image 4: Laura Biagiotti]

Source : VOGUE.Giamba

The origin of Babouche shoe is slippers from Morocco. Morocco slippers are full of different colors and designs in market stalls and shops throughout Morocco. The word “Babouche” is the French version of the Persian word “papoosh” means slipper (pa “foot” + poosh “covering.”) They usually indicate pointed, flat, slipper’s style comfortable shoes.

Babouche can be found made from leather or cloth and are often ornamented for special occasions. They lack a heel and you can slide into them like a mule. Although some people describe it “ugly shoe,” there are many designers regard it as fashion trend.

In Spring/Summer 2017, you would see various Babouche displaying on fashion runway shows. They were made by different materials and presented a number of colors and textures.

Therefore, Babouche has slowly been picking up steam as a cult favorite, heading into must-have footwear.

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Rachel Comey, Image 2: Creatures of Comfort, and Image 3 : Noon by Noor]

This slipper-style shoe emerged on last A/W's catwalks and the babouche is only gaining momentum for S/S 17. The casual style provides a perfect ground for highlighting both color and material which designers use authentic leathers, suede, fabrics, and bright tones except black and white. Some brands added new elements for shoes including metallic sheen, embellishment, hardware and all-over print such as Acne Studios and Dolce & Gabbana. This slip-on style is not only popular in women’s footwear, but men’s footwear starts to follow it.

On the street look, Babouche is able to fit in many styles whether formal or casual.

Most people wear it with trousers and sport pants, but you can also wear a long skirt or dress with a pair of Morocco slippers. Different textures make this kind of shoe have a variety of silhouettes.

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 7 | Nov 7 2016 [1] Pinterest. Retrieved Nov 7, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Nov 6, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w/S_S_17/25652 [3] Vogue. Retrieved Nov 7, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

Source: Pinterest

Flatform Sandal

2017 S/S FOOTWEAR TREND

Source: WGSN [Image 1: Prada, Image 2: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Image 3: Salvatore Ferragamo, and Image 4: Versace]

In the warm season, both men and women must have a pair of sandal. It’s the best footwear that allows people wear in the hot weather. Last year, platform shoe started to become a popular trend. Flatform sandal is one of the platform shoes’ style. New heights are important as the flatform sandal because it’s selected by a number of influential designers and creates a more casual look in contrast to the platform sandal. Solid EVA soles translate active influences, alongside glitter and fur-covered units that reference the retro and natural themes underpinning key catwalk themes.

In addition, the modern leisure trend is a major influence on materials, color and footwear items this season as part of evolving fashion-sports looks, so it is not surprised that there were many brands’ designs have sporty elements such as Salvatore Ferragamo, using webbing and elastic straps create a wearable sports look.

Source : VOGUE.No. 21

Source: Vogue [Image 1: Gucci, Image 2: Dolce & Gabbana, and Image 3 : Balmain]

In Spring/Summer 2017, solid sole units incorporate stripes and colorblocking details, it makes flatform sandal more colorful and changeable.

Big buckles and wide straps are key elements. Besides, wearing shoes with socks is also a prevalent trend in this season such as Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, worn with white socks that scrunch around the ankles.

There are too many designers using this particular trend to count right now.

Source: Pinterest

Most girls wear flatform sandals with short skirts or dress. They can extend your legs naturally and make you look higher. However, you can also wear with culottes, skinny jeans, leggings or pantyhose. If you want to follow the trend that wearing shoes with crew socks or ankle socks, you will be surprised how many different outfits they can provide you. Undoubtedly, flatform sandal will become a must-have footwear for S/S 17.

Chen-Wei Chiu | Trend Journal 8 | Nov 14 2016 [1] Pinterest. Retrieved Nov 14, 2016, from https://www.pinterest.com/ [2] WGSN. Retrieved Nov 13, 2016, from https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Footwear/w/S_S_17/25652 [3] Vogue. Retrieved Nov 14, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

Source: Pinterest