PRETTY IN PINK As the Argyle mine closes, London's jewellers have their hands on the rarest of the rare diamonds

In the PINK

Pink diamonds are more sought-after than ever, and London’s jewellers have their hands on them, writes Oonagh Turner

For nearly two decades, an annual invitation-only event has attracted diamond enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and luxury jewellery houses from across the world. The exclusive event showcases the crème de la crème of pink diamonds, from the Argyle mine in Western Australia which sources 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds. To qualify for this prestigious event, the pink diamonds are evaluated after the gem is cut, polished and assessed for hue, saturation and colour, before being certified by two grading specialists. The showcase represents the rarest of the rare, and it would take 15 years to accumulate enough to fill a single Champagne flute. The 4th October marks the very final Argyle Tender after mining ceased at Argyle in November 2020.

“It’s an extremely important event in the history of diamonds,” comments Alex Bettencourt-Luck of Calleija, one of the very few Master Jewellers in the world that is approved to be an Argyle Diamonds Select Atelier. “Random light-coloured pink diamonds surface from time to time from different mines around the world, but it is very uncommon. No other mine has produced the consistent quantities and quality that Argyle has and it’s highly unlikely we will experience a discovery like this again,” says Bettencourt-Luck. “It takes decades of research to discover the right environment that actually possesses diamonds, and it takes years of investigation to ensure the diamond mine will be prepared for recovery.”

When Argyle Pink Diamonds were first discovered, no one knew why or how their brilliant colour was created, but over the years, geologists have discovered what makes them saturated with so much pink. “The colour of pink diamonds is a unique combination of extraordinary pressure and heat beneath the earth’s surface, completely unique to the Argyle Mine,” says BettencourtLuck. It’s being in the presence of such rare natural history and their rarity which give them their undeniable allure. Calleija Jewellers founder and designer, John Calleija remembers: “I was so besotted with my first Argyle pink diamond when I saw her decades ago. She was a 1ct pink pear shape in a beautiful colour. I purchased it immediately and made it into a ring for myself.”

Francis Graff, chief executive officer at Graff, is equally taken with pink diamonds’ allure. “There is no other gemstone that draws you in. They are absolutely captivating, the epitome of femininity and romance, and their rarity only adds to their uniqueness.” Graff’s relationship with pink diamonds can be traced back to the 1980s, when the Australian mine was first unearthed. When Laurence Graff acquired every pink diamond from the mine’s first yield at the inaugural Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender in Antwerp in 1984, he created an exquisite flower brooch incorporating the entire collection of gems (pictured above). Since then, the Graff family has been totally dedicated to showcasing the world’s most remarkable diamonds. Today, Graff has a collection including several fine pink diamond single stone rings, including a 12.02 carat Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid pear shape pink diamond.

Hirsh is another London name synonymous with Argyle pink diamonds. “Our relationship with pink diamonds dates back to the 1980s when my father and our founder, Anthony Hirsh, purchased some early Argyle lots before they were as popular as they are now. He wanted to share his passion for natural colour diamonds with our customers as he always understood their rarity and beauty,” says Jason Hirsh, graduate gemologist GIA at Hirsh. “We have even visited the pink diamond mines in Australia together.” Currently available at Hirsh is the Mayfair Rose necklace featuring an exquisite 3.01 carat pear shape diamond set beneath an 0.87 carat pear shape and natural pink diamond, (pictured right) POA, as well as a wildflower campion pendant featuring 18 natural pink diamonds in 18k rose gold, £9,000.

The Argyle Diamond mine closure has had a huge impact on pink diamonds, increasing their value and looking to continue to do so. “It’s the end of an era and prices have reflected this because demand exceeds supply,” says BettencourtLuck. Fortunately, at Calleija’s London boutique within The Royal Arcade, the jewellers have prepared for the closure of the mine with an impressive collection including the Blythe Argyle pink diamond ring (pictured overleaf ), POA. BettencourtLuck concludes: “To be one of the final master guardians of the rarest and most beautiful gems on earth is an immense privilege.” L