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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2020 £3.95

EPIC EXPEDITIONS Discover the Arctic & Antarctica

Dramatic DOURO

The highlights of a trip to Portugal’s River of Gold

PICASSO

• SPANISH GALLERIES • NEW EXHIBITION • INSPIRING NOVELS

25 January – 13 April Friends of the RA go free Supported by Exhibition organised by the Royal Academy of Arts, London and the Cleveland Museum of Art in partnership with the Musée national Picasso-Paris Pablo Picasso, Head of a Woman, Mougins, 4 December 1962. Pencil on cut and folded wove paper, 42 x 26.5 cm. Musée national Picasso-Paris. Pablo Picasso Gift in Lieu, 1979. MP1850. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée national Picasso-Paris) / Béatrice Hatala. © Succession Picasso/DACS 2019

WELCOME

Welcome to our spring edition of Explore More We have had a very exciting start to the year here at Viking with the announcement of expeditions cruising in the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. The addition of our two new expedition vessels, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, will mean that we can offer guests an even more comprehensive range of destinations, including trips to the polar regions. We are also thrilled to be supporting the new exhibition, Picasso and Paper, which is showing until April at the Royal Academy of Arts in London. We interviewed the renowned curator Ann Dumas to find out more about Picasso’s ongoing fascination with all types of paper, and how it influenced his art. Continuing the theme, we also have features on where you can go to see more of Picasso’s work in Barcelona and Malaga. For those of you who are keen cooks, we have a range of delicious recipes from Spain, sure to conjure up memories of Spanish sunshine. And if you’re searching for a new book, check our recommendations of novels that touch on the life of Picasso, the ancient treasures of Egypt and epic adventures in the Arctic. We have rounded up some fun facts about penguins – a highlight of any trip to Antarctica – and we take a closer look at the intricate skills involved in carving totem poles, many of which are on show to guests visiting Alaska with Viking. In November, we welcomed our new puppy, Hazel, into the Viking family. She is a calm and happy girl who is bringing us much joy and has ensured an energetic start to the new year! We wish you all a wonderful decade ahead, and look forward to seeing more of you at our upcoming events. Best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

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Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

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Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE

IN THIS ISSUE... 14 PENGUIN TRIVIA Our favourite penguin facts

See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2020 £3.95

EPIC EXPEDITIONS

26 EASTERN MAGIC Bustling Bangkok to Hong Kong

Discover the Arctic & Antarctica

32 SCREEN TIME Viking’s carefully curated digital displays to inspire a sense of wanderlust

Dramatic DOURO

The highlights of a trip to Portugal’s River of Gold

40 BLACK FOREST ADVENTURE Gabrielle Sander explores 26 miles of the Rhine on two wheels

54 PICASSO AND PAPER Shining a light on Picasso’s work with paper at the Royal Academy of Arts’ new exhibition

PICASSO

• SPANISH GALLERIES • NEW EXHIBITION • INSPIRING NOVELS

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Cover: An Adélie penguin, the most widespread penguin in the Antarctic

72 THE BOY KING For John Wilcott, the Tutankhamun exhibition evokes childhood memories 74 MY THAILAND The food, the cities, and the natural spectacles of Thailand

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FEATURES

REGULARS

10 EXPEDITION CRUISING New Arctic itinieraries

VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

16 TOTEM POLES Alaska’s cultural carvings

YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests

22 RIVER OF GOLD A journey along the Douro

44 GARDENER’S GUIDE Expert Paul Hervey-Brookes on the merits of the humble lemon balm plant

34 MUNCH MOMENTS Discover the artwork from

Norway’s much-loved expressionist painter, Edvard Munch

36 HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS Heart-warming

home visits

48 DAZZLING NORWAY Fabulous fjords and glaciers 56 PICASSO’S CITIES Spotlight on Malaga and Barcelona 60 A TASTE OF SPAIN Sumptuous Spanish recipes 70 ON THE TRAIL Rachael Funnell joins Viking on a whirlwind tour to uncover Egyptian treasures

46 HELLO YELLOW Revive your holiday wardrobe with bright pops of springtime yellow 52 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen on valuable lessons gleaned from from a lifetime of travel

64 CITY GUIDE: MALAGA A closer look at the historical city and arts scene emanating from Malaga 66 CITY GUIDE: BARCELONA Eccentric architecture meets blissful beaches in spellbinding Barcelona 68 BOOK CLUB The best holiday reads on our list SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

EPIC Viking announced in January that Viking Expeditions will begin sailing in January 2022, with its first vessel, Viking Octantis, embarking on voyages to Antartica and North America’s Great Lakes. A second expedition ship, Viking Polaris, will set sail in August 2022, sailing to Antarctica and the Arctic. “In creating ‘the thinking person’s expedition’, we are perfecting polar expedition cruising, and we will usher in a new era of comfortable exploration in the heart of North America,” said Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking. “Our guests are curious explorers. They want to continue travelling with us to familiar and iconic destinations, but they would also like to travel further.” 6

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Partnering with some of the world’s most prestigious scientific institutions, including the University of Cambridge’s Scott Polar Research Institute, The Cornell Lab of Ornithology and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, will ensure that guests are up-to-date with the latest polar research being conducted, and will have access to lectures and scientific updates. Norwegian adventurer Liv Arnesen – the first woman to ski solo and unsupported to the South Pole in 1994 – and Ann Bancroft – the first woman to successfully finish a number of expeditions to the Arctic and Antarctic – will serve as ceremonial godmothers to Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

EXPEDITIONS

NEWS

READER OFFER Thanks to Greenwich Music Time we are happy to offer our readers a discount of £10 per person on the following performances:

6 July 2020 Sarah Brighton

7 July 2020 Lea Salonga Please visit greenwichmusictime.co.uk

and use the code “VIKING10” to redeem this offer.

VIKING JUPITER In January, in a unique ceremony held in Beverley Hills, LA, guests at the naming ceremony for Viking Jupiter – sailing between the Falkland Islands and Cape Horn – were linked to the ship via a live video link. Ceremonial godmother and

soprano singer Sissel Kyrkjebø gave the traditional blessing, and used a Viking axe to cut the red ribbon on stage, as the ship’s captain confirmed that the bottle of aquavit had smashed against the side of the ship. A tecnological first!

SINGING WITH THE STARS Viking is a proud supporter of the Lord’s Taverners charity, so we were especially excited to celebrate the start of the festive season at their annual Carol Concert with the Stars in December. Held in the magnificent setting of St. Marylebone Parish Church, we enjoyed readings from stars from the worlds of sport, comedy and entertainment, as well as our favourite carols accompanied by the wonderful church choir. A truly magical occasion.

GOING FOR GOLD

We are thrilled to announce that for the 11th year running, Viking has been named Best River Cruise Line at the prestigious British Travel Awards, one of the largest and most influential consumer polls in the UK. Viking was also awarded a silver medal in two additional categories, the Best Luxury Cruise Line and Best Small Ships Cruise Line.

NEW

DESTINATIONS

Following on from our exciting Viking Expeditions annoucement in January, we are delighted to be launching several brand new itineraries. Among these is the 13-day Antarctic Explorer, the ultimate adventure for guests keen to spot glaciers, icebergs and rarely-seen wildlife and plants. Meanwhile, the Arctic Explorer trip takes in frozen tundra and fjords as well as offering guests the chance to visit native people living in remote settlements. Finally, the 8-day Great Lakes Explorer journey, heading from Milwaukee, Wisconsin to Ontario, Canada, navigates the maze of granite islands and coastal wetlands, with migrating birds and tranquil forests.

Above: The Viking team celebrates their win at the British Travel Awards ceremony

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Your WORLD

We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises...and where you’re off to next

YOUR LETTERS We have just returned home to Winchester after our most exciting start to Christmas. Courtesy of Viking Cruises, and after winning one of their competitions, my wife and I were able to enjoy a Christmas Gala Dinner with the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon at Highclere Castle. We were greeted with a choice of cocktails to enjoy with our fellow guests, many of whom had travelled from the USA for the occasion. Lord and Lady Carnarvon hosted a guided tour and we then visited the cellars to see the Egyptian display relating to a previous Lord Carnarvon’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922. This was followed by a superb meal, including lobster, venison and a gin-and-tonic sorbet made with Highclere Gin. The Earl and Countess were very knowledgeable and amiable hosts and invited us all back to the Library for coffee to finish the evening in style. Stuart and Barbara Vause

New friends We thoroughly enjoyed our recent cruise, In the Wake of the Vikings, notwithstanding the involvement of Mother Nature. After all, she is more powerful than any of us! 8

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Naturally we were disappointed at the omission of some ports but I was pleasantly surprised to receive the credits for a future cruise which I will be delighted to utilise. I told Charles, the General Manager, numerous times how fabulous each and every member of the staff was. As this is our fifth cruise, many of the supervisors were old friends. We also made new friends and have already booked four more ocean cruises. I must single out Christine in Guest Services, Gary the Executive Chef and Ramona the Beverage Manager, Kayam the Restaurant Manager, Vikesh, a restaurant supervisor who departed early for a well-deserved promotion, Mika, the Spa Manager as well as Kim and Sophia, the lovely and talented entertainers. Your hiring process truly sets the standard. Bruce F Fein

Amazing Alaska We had never been to Alaska before so wanted to learn more about the country. The cruise was all we had hoped it would be. The ship was great and even with around 900 passengers, never felt crowded.The food was great and there were two special dining experiences that we pre-booked. We also chose to have afternoon tea one day as a special treat. Entertainment in the theatre was of a very high standard and very much to our (rather more highbrow) tastes. The guides were informative and we learnt a lot about the country and its indigenous people. We have already booked another cruise around the bottom of South America and over to the Falklands, which will be our 12th Viking cruise. Each one has been different and brilliant. Mr and Mrs Childs

S TA R L E T T E R

I have recently returned from the Rhine Getaway cruise, sailing from Amsterdam to Basel, and it surpassed all my expectations. From the moment we set foot on board Viking Mani we could feel the welcome. The ship was bright, comfortable and clean, and all the staff were friendly and welcoming. Together with the beautiful landscape, the excursions and the entertainment, it was just perfect. All the staff were very helpful and made things easy for me (walking with a stick) but there are some who went above and beyond their duties – Ralph the Hotel Manager, Programme Director George and Kris our waiter. Thank you Viking. Erika Ruis

You could win...

...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK

Dining at Highclere

LETTERS

Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images

Cruise highlights Clockwise, from top left: 1. Lovely afternoon rafting on the Great River in Jamaica! PhotoHistoryGal 2. One of my Lisbon highlights. LandLopers 3. Viking Cruises food memory, eating pretzels in Strasbourg. LuxuryFred 4. Bergen waterfront. 3 out of 3 sunny days for us! Now that is lucky. worldtravel_bug 5. Sunset on the Danube. jocdgr8 6. Favourite thing about river cruises is the views when you wake up. Grab a coffee and take it in! JoesDaily 7. Budapest is a prime site for dreams. divergenttravel 8. The view of Rio de Janeiro from the top of Sugarloaf is glorious even on a rainy day! Don’t miss it! BonVoyageurs 9. Unforgettable scenes from Cologne. Zendertravel

Hit List

YOUR MESSAGES Amazon for February this year whilst onboard! So excited! Maureen Gerke Viking Expeditions looks wonderful – amazing regions to explore in real comfort. David Thomas

Loved our Viking Homelands trip. Our first experience of Viking Ocean Cruises. Carol Trower Loved our West Indies Explorer trip so much last January that we booked the Caribbean to the

We will be on Viking Star tomorrow on the In Search of the Northern Lights cruise. Just finished packing! Pauline Smith Doing Berlin to Prague in August. Can’t wait. This will be our 6th river cruise with Viking. David Cairns

I love river cruising and am really looking forward to taking the Elegant Elbe cruise in April! Rick Griffin We did the Viking Homelands trip with Viking last April and loved it. We also opted to take the pre-cruise extension in Iceland and the scenery and Blue Lagoon were amazing. Sheila Davies The road above Geiranger in Norway was fun. I was happy our bus driver was negotiating the curves. My favourite port stop with Viking. Julie McCool

Moscow should be top of everyone’s wish list! We did the Waterways of the Tsars in May and absolutely loved everything about it. Chris Purnell

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This page: Vikingâ€™s expedition ship will venture into some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world, featuring sweeping glaciers and icy mountains

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T R AV E L

EXPLORING the OUTER EDGE Journey with Viking to untamed destinations as we reveal new itineraries for curious travelers

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

f you have dreamt of stepping into the polar wilderness, you need look no further. Viking’s ultimate travel adventures are designed to take you to Antarctica, the “White Continent”, home to towering mountains, glacial plateaus and colonies of penguins, and the Arctic, where polar bears roam and Northern Lights illuminate the sky. These are dramatic landscapes that have drawn explorers to them throughout history. From rugged mountains that plunge into

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THE ITINERARIES Antarctic Explorer This ultimate adventure takes you along the spine of the Antarctic Peninsula. Your expedition ship was designed to sail remote routes such as the legendary Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula, with its calving glaciers, crackling icebergs and unrivaled wildlife encounters.

Arctic, Greenland & the North Pole Sail from Tromsø to Svalbard into breathtaking fjords, surrounded by stunning landscapes and wildlife in abundance – including whales, reindeer and polar bears. Here you will find remote human outposts including an old whaling station, a mining settlement and the most northernmost city in the world. For more information, visit vikingcruises.co.uk/expeditions

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glacier-carved fjords and silent icebergs, you can observe two of the world’s most remote places from the comfort of your state-of-the-art stateroom and enjoy lectures and workshops on polar studies. Viking Residents Scientists, including naturalists, geologists, polar experts and expedition leaders, help bring the regions we visit to life, from lectures and workshops to personal experiences.

To get closer, kayaks, zodiacs and submarines will bring you to the heart of nature, on land, by sea or from the sky, depending on your activity level interests. There is no permanent population of humans in Antarctica, just research outposts in this environment, home to biological diversity. In contrast, in the Arctic you can see a collection of towns where native Inuits live among the marine wildlife and

T R AV E L

Clockwise, from top left: the Viking Expedition ship on a clear day in the Antarctic; a polar bear coming up above the water; famed explorer, Roald Amundsen; the Nordic Junior Suite on board; spellbinding views are on offer around the ship, even from the Spa

ANTARCTIC EXPLORERS It took until the 18th century for two different parties of explorers, those of British naval officer Robert F. Scott and Norwegian Roald Amundsen, to reach the South Pole within five weeks of each other. The teams went head to head, setting off in 1911, in a dramatic journey that resulted in victory for Amundsen and tragedy for Scott. The story of the stranding and subsequent rescue of Sir Ernest Shackleton and his crew while attempting to traverse the continent is one of historyâ€™s great triumphs of survival. In 1914, Sir Ernest Shackleton set out with 27 men on Endurance, the ship that later became trapped in ice for 10 months, on the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition to transverse Antarctica via the South Pole. While his mission failed, Shackleton brought all 27 of his men back alive, a feat that entrenched his leadership qualities in international Polar Exploration lore forever. To watch a video about Roald Amundsen, go online: vikingcruises.co.uk/expeditions/video/all

glacier-covered islands. Both environments offer the chance to see the most resilient creatures. After a day absorbing all on offer, the purpose-built ships have been designed with spacious and relaxing Scandinavian spaces, offering comfortable furnishings not usually found on expedition ships. Settle in to the Aquavit Bar for an afternoon glass of wine, or visit the Explorersâ€™ Lounge to catch

a piano performance. Recharge in the Spa and enjoy the Nordic bathing ritual of alternating between hot and cold, from our sauna to our snow shower.

THE RACE TO THE NORTH POLE

There appears to be differing accounts as to who discovered the North Pole. On September 7, 1909, the New York Times

announced to its readers that Robert E. Peary had discovered the North Pole that April. However, a week earlier, the New York Herald printed Dr. Frederick A. Cook as the discoverer of the Pole. Having returned after being left for dead in the Arctic for a year, he claimed to have reached it in April 1908. Much research has been given to working out who got there first, but no evidence has come to light. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

TOP 10

PENGUIN FACTS Fascinating and frequently funny, we’ve rounded up our ten favourite facts about the wildlife stars of Antarctica

WHY WALK WHEN YOU CAN WADDLE?

Penguins’ legs are not especially short, so why do they waddle? Scientists believe it is because their legs have evolved to help them swim better, and are now set further back on the body. This makes it harder for them to walk, and easier to waddle. LEAPING FOR JOY Like porpoises, penguins leap in shallow arcs above the surface of the water. When they do this, tiny bubbles cover their feathers which reduces friction when they swim. Leaping out of the water also helps them escape predators. But the general view is that, just like porpoises, penguins leap for joy.

DRINKING SALTY WATER Because most penguins live in places where there is little or no fresh water, and because they eat so much seafood, they need to expel the high amount of salt in their diet. They do this through a gland located just above their eye, which filters the salt from their bloodstream. The salt is then expelled through the bill, or by sneezing!

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OLYMPIC SWIMMERS The world’s fastest underwater birds, Gentoo penguins can swim up to 20 miles per hour and dive to depths of over 600 feet. Penguins lost the ability to fly millions of years ago, but their wings evolved into flippers that help them zip through the water.

WILDLIFE

PENGUINS HAVE KNEES Yes, they do! You just can’t see them because they’re hidden under all their fluffy feathers.

THE FREEZE FACTOR Life in the big freeze can be tough for these flightless birds, and they have cleverly evolved to survive the harsh conditions. To stop their feet from freezing, penguins have special arteries in their legs that can adjust blood flow in response to their foot temperature, enabling them to send just enough blood to their feet to keep them above freezing.

BLACK AND WHITE CAMOUFLAGE

Male and female penguins both have the same tuxedo-like coloration, which helps protect them against predators in the water. It’s called countershading. The black plumage on their back makes it hard to see them from above. And the white plumage on their front, when seen from below, looks like the sun reflecting off the water.

UNDERWATER VISION

CATASTROPHIC MOULTING

Penguin feathers are shorter and stiffer than most bird feathers, making them more streamlined in the water. Unlike flying birds that moult slowly over time, penguins moult all their feathers over just a few weeks every summer. It’s called catastrophic moulting. During this time, they cannot enter the water, so they need to have stored enough fat to fast, until they can head back out to sea with a new coat.

Penguins have a secondary transparent eyelid to enable them to see underwater, meaning their vision is better underwater than on land. This ‘see-through’ eyelid helps them to see clearly as they swim underwater, giving them superior eyesight to spot prey while hunting.

LET’S STICK TOGETHER

Highly social birds, penguins form breeding colonies called rookeries, in which they live in the tens of thousands and even millions. Many penguins stay with the same mate for years, and families stick together, with many generations using the same nesting ground. Penguins’ excellent hearing helps them find each other in a crowd.

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C U LT U R E

LEGEND

LORE

We delve into the history and meaning carved into the majestic totem poles of Alaska

he totem poles of Alaska, created by coastal First Nations and indigenous groups of the Pacific Northwest, in particular the Tlingit, Tsimshian and Haida communities, are magnificent pieces of art that conjure up memories of people and events. Usually standing between three and 18 metres in height – although some can surpass 20 metres – poles were traditionally carved by men. Today, however, both men and women have become expert carvers of totem poles, often honing their skills after spending their childhood years watching experts in action. The word ‘totem’ can be traced to the Algonquian word odoodem, meaning “kinship group”. Typically

created out of red cedar wood, most totem poles feature symbolic animals or human forms, as well as supernatural beings that chart a family’s lineage and history. Common crests include the thunderbird, wolf, grizzly bear, raven, beaver, frog, salmon and eagle, and important families often have more than one crest. In addition to family-related themes, totem poles can also be created to mark a special event or to commemorate a particular ancestor or legend. They can also be used as a point of welcome, or as a sign of remembrance, and can be erected to celebrate a family’s success. Embedded in the culture, the ability to appreciate the meaning carved into a specific totem

PHOTOS: © ALAMY

This page: The incredible carved detail of a Tlingit totem pole at Saxman Totem Park in Alaska

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FACTS AND FIGURES • Alaskan totem poles are carved from cedar trees, which are resistant to rot and grow in the rainforests of Southeast Alaska. • Standing at 132 feet tall, one of the tallest totem poles in the world is in Kake, Alaska. • Paint was traditionally made from a mix of chewed cedar bark and salmon eggs, along with powdered pigments, in order to create an oil-based paint. Today, synthetic paints are often used, but some carvers still use natural pigments derived from charcoal and ochre. • Early European explorers mistakenly believed totem poles to be objects of worship. • The Tlingit totem pole artist, Nathan Jackson, has carved nearly 50 totem poles over the last 45 years.

rests on the viewer’s level of understanding of the particular symbols and local traditions. One of the most recognisable cultural objects of the region, the vast array of different designs and styles reflects the rich cultural and ecological diversity within the Pacific Northwest. Historians and anthropologists estimate that totem pole carving, as we know it, developed over the last 200 years, reaching its peak in the 19th century. During this period in history, many First Nations communities had gained access to superior tools and techniques through trading fish and fur with Europeans. Despite using rot-resistant cedar, most large totem poles only survive outside for approximately 100 years before they start to deteriorate. Many trees are viewed and closely inspected before the optimum tree is chosen and then

harvested. A ceremony is often performed to honour the tree before it is felled, as a mark of respect and gratitude. The artists responsible for carving the tree use both traditional and modern tools to create the distinctive curves and markings, paying particular attention to the grain of the wood and any special features of the tree. Today, many totem poles which were sold or taken from First Nations communities have been repatriated as part of an ongoing effort to maintain and promote indigenous culture. As new generations of carvers hone their remarkable skills, the tradition of carving and erecting totem poles continues, and there is no better place to go to appreciate these wonderful works of art. The 11-day 2021 Alaska & the Inside Passage journey, from Vancouver to Seward, USA, starts from £4,840pp. 18

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

Clockwise, from far left: A totem pole at Ketchikan includes a range of different symbols and markings; the totem pole at Kake is thought to be the tallest in the world; eagles are symbolic and often portrayed on totem poles

C U LT U R E

VIKING EXCURSIONS On Viking’s Alaska & the Inside Passage trip, guests are spoilt for choice when it comes to spotting totem poles. These excursions take in some of the finest examples of Alaska’s totem poles...

POTLATCH TOTEM PARK & KETCHIKAN HIGHLIGHTS Discover the coastal community of Ketchikan and learn about the ancient native craft of totem pole carving. Potlatch Totem Park is a modern recreation of a 19th-century native village, located on historic Tlingit fishing grounds on the shores of the Tongass Narrows. Here, you can see numerous houses, totem poles and panels, and hear the legends behind the designs. Visit the carving studio to learn about their ancient technique. After enjoying a light snack at the Alaska Totem Trading Company, you will embark on a scenic city drive through the south easternmost city in Alaska. Travel past the lively waterfront to the historic downtown area of Ketchikan, where your guide will point out highlights such as City Park, Nathan Jackson’s Thundering Wings, a totem statue in the shape of a bald eagle and the Dolly’s House Museum, located in the famous red-light district, before returning to your ship.

SAXMAN NATIVE VILLAGE

ICY STRAIGHT POINT

Experience Native American culture through song, dance and stories during a visit to the Saxman Native Village. Here, you will experience the rich living culture of its residents, including the legends behind the figures adorning their majestic totem poles. You will be traditionally welcomed by Tlingit village elders with an elaborate greeting ceremony and savour an Alaskan snack. Admire their glorious folkloric regalia, adorned with hand-beaded designs of animal motifs that represent their clan. After enjoying this time-honoured tradition, visit one of the largest collections of totem poles in the world and see craftsmen passing on their skills to eager apprentices at the Village Carving Centre. Stop by the Beaver Clan House and watch history come alive as you enjoy a song-and-dance performance, and listen as your hosts regale you with heartfelt tribal stories of their traditions and ancestry.

Experience life in a Tlingit village during this fascinating excursion. The small community of Hoonah is many things to its residents: a lively fishing hamlet, an old logging town and the world’s largest Tlingit community. Its growth began with a booming canning industry, and today it is a tranquil and welcoming seaside haven adorned with native art. Walk with your guide to the Heritage Centre Native Theatre for a colourful Tribal Dance and Cultural Legends performance by local students that provides both insight into tribal traditions and a rich glimpse of long-cherished customs. Wearing authentic, vibrant regalia, Huna Tlingit performers will share their history and culture through song, dance and storytelling. You will also have an opportunity to board a tram for a drive through Hoonah to see totem poles while learning about the town’s history from an experienced guide.

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ITINERARY

Alaskan Adventures Uncover mountain-ringed seaside towns, gleaming walls of ice and a pristine wilderness of misty fjords on this unforgettable journey to Alaska

Above: A red canoe on the shores of Davidson Lake, Alaska

DAY 1 / VANCOUVER, CANADA Embark your ship in Vancouver and marvel at the city’s scenic setting between mountains and sea.

DAY 2 / THE INSIDE PASSAGE Revel in the endless natural beauty of the Inside Passage, one of Alaska’s most scenic waterways. Verdant forest spills down steep mountains to meet the shore, bald eagles fly overhead and humpback whales breach the glass-like water.

DAY 3 / KETCHIKAN, US Alaska’s ‘first city’, Ketchikan, is home to the world’s largest collection of standing totem poles. Immerse yourself in the Tlingit legacy and legends.

DAY 4 / SITKA, US Looked over by the dramatic spectre of Mt Edgecumbe, Sitka was once the capital of Russian Alaska. Learn about the fur trade that first enticed the Russians and spot pretty islands peppered along Sitka Sound.

DAY 5 / JUNEAU, US

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES

Come to the Alaskan capital of Juneau to pan for gold in the spirit of the city’s early days, take in wonderful views from Mount Roberts Tramway or embark on a small boat ride to Mendenhall Glacier.

DAY 6 / SKAGWAY, US Skagway was once a gateway for prospectors arriving to reap the benefits of the Klondike gold rush in 20

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Canadian Yukon. Today you can take a picturesque drive up to White Pass like the gold diggers of old.

DAY 7 / ICY STRAIT POINT, US Discover the old canning station at Icy Strait Point, which has been fully restored by the Native American Tlingit community from nearby Hoonah.

DAY 8 / YAKUTAT BAY Some of Alaska’s most breathtaking and pristine scenery awaits today, including majestic Yakutat Bay and gigantic Hubbard Glacier – it’s more than six miles wide where it meets the ocean.

DAY 9 / VALDEZ, US With its beautiful setting along a deep fjord in Prince William Sound, the small fishing town of Valdez never fails to impress. Excursions include a helicopter tour of Chugach Mountains and a trip to the Columbia Glacier.

DAY 10 / SEWARD, US More outdoor adventures are to be had in Seward, renowned as the starting point of the Iditarod National Historic Trail. There’s also the Kenai Fjords National Park and Exit Glacier to discover.

DAY 11 / SEWARD, US Disembark your ship and transfer to the airport. The 11-day 2021 Alaska & the Inside Passage trip, from Vancouver to Seward, starts from £4,840pp.

Amazing Alaska From eagles circling snow-capped mountains to whales traversing deep waters, from ice-blue glaciers the size of skyscrapers to bright red totems, Alaska is every bit as wild as you imagine it to be, and even more spectacular. As your journey unfolds, so too does the abundance of wildlife. In Alaska whales live year-round. So do bears, sea otters, sea lions and harbour seals. Of all the natural wonders, the glaciers steal the show, including Hubbard, the giant of them all. There is no better way to explore America’s Last Frontier than on board a Viking ship that oﬀers the last word in comfort.

2021 Alaska & the Inside Passage Eleven days from £4,840pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on an Alaska & the Inside Passage ocean cruise on 19 May 2021. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

DRAMATIC

DOURO After journeying down the Douro River, travel writer John Wilmott recalls the highlights of his trip with Viking

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s the Douro the most beautiful navigable river in Europe? Many believe so after sailing through this spectacular valley in Portugal. Soon after leaving its berth in Porto, your intimate Viking ship enters a green gorge that twists through enchanting countryside all the way to the Spanish border. Venerable old wine estates sit proudly above the riverbanks, the surrounding steep hills smothered with the terraced vineyards for

which the Douro is famous. Whitewashed villages vie for attention with verdant forests and even golden beaches. Probably the most memorable stretches are those through dramatic rocky canyons, in which sharp bends in the river reveal new panoramas. These remote landscapes provide a compelling contrast to the historic magnificence of Porto, one of the continent’s most eye-catching cities. The whole journey is enriched

by a wonderful collection of tales – the secrets of port wine, of devoted pilgrims, a family of bats who protect ancient books, of a mysterious astronaut, and of a curious stork who was too friendly for his own good. There’s such a huge variety to this cruise, so I’ve shared a few highlights to whet your appetite. Most guests choose to begin their journey with a two-night hotel stay in Lisbon, Portugal’s grand capital. Here, the Viking

This page: An aerial view of Porto Old Town at sunset

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WHAT SETS VIKING APART ON THE DOURO?

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

• Dedicated Viking team in Lisbon with separate concierge in a first-class central hotel • Your own fleet of luxury coaches that follows your ship to take you on a range of included shore-based adventures • A well-educated and engaging guide on each coach • Free entry to Salamanca’s New Cathedral and the museum at Lamego due to Viking’s sponsorship

team reveal the magic of the city to the House of Shells, started bridge, and the dignified Serra do with an included tour of the in 1493, and the ‘new’ and ‘old’ Pilar monastery to the right. waterside Belém district, where cathedrals that stand side by side. With free time after an a quirky 16th-century tower Another sight that may seem introductory tour, you may wish seemingly floats on the beautiful familiar is the façade of the to board the cable car to the Tagus estuary. exquisite Mateus Palace which has monastery, or take an optional visit The journey to Porto, on long adorned the labels of bottles of to one of the old port houses. Viking’s own fleet of luxurious the well-known rosé. Find time to Sailing out from Porto, don’t coaches, is broken with a tour of wander the gardens after examining miss the traditional rabelo, boats one of the world’s oldest universities which once ferried precious port the antiques inside the palace. at Coimbra. If the caped uniforms If you’ve been enjoying the local barrels down the river. The scenery of the students look familiar, food and drink ashore, you will changes quickly and before long, it’s because they inspired those by now have realised how hard those unmistakable terraced of Harry Potter’s the Viking chefs Hogwarts school. work to tempt you The city lies spread out before you; the The extraordinary with delectable botanical gardens to the left yield to Joanina Library also Portuguese dishes handsome buildings ascending the hill evokes tales of magic such as sardines and and wizardry. roast duck. Waiting beside the quay at Porto vineyards will surround you. To enhance your journey will be your Viking ship. A compact further, the cruise director Further along the river and the version of the Viking Longships of assembles a pleasingly varied on baroque, twin-towered Sanctuary the Rhine and Danube, the stateboard programme, which may of Our Lady of Remedies offers of-the-art ship boasts a spacious include a performance by a folk an alluring sight, although the sun deck with a pool, appealing band, traditional fado singing, or a monument’s most powerful Aquavit Terrace over the bow, and a statement is the astonishing double workshop where you learn how to lounge and restaurant with Viking’s staircase that descends to Lamego’s make those irresistible custard tarts trademark Scandinavian style. so synonymous with the culture. town centre. Walk down the 686 Many staterooms have a French As for the friendly stork, you’ll steps and admire the delightful Balcony or outside veranda. just have to ask your Viking tour azulejo tilework on each landing. The view from the quay at Salamanca, the ‘golden city’ over escort to relay this intriguing story Porto will certainly arrest your on the visit to the medieval hilltop the border in Spain, has enough attention. The city lies spread out village of Castelo Rodrigo. architectural richness to fill a book. before you; the botanical gardens You’ll quickly understand why to the left yield to handsome Plaza Mayor is regarded as the most A 10-day 2021 Portugal’s River of Gold journey from Lisbon buildings ascending the hill, the beautiful square in the country, to Porto starts from £2,195pp. noble cathedral, the graceful Luís I though your focus will also turn

Clockwise from far left: The Church of the Clerecia in the old town of Salamanca; Belém Tower, built as a fortress in the 16th century; Lisbon’s old town streets and an historic tram; Mateus Palace overlooking its scenic gardens; a traditional apartment façade in Lisbon; an aerial view of a Viking ship on the Douro; delicious pastéis de nata, a treat for travellers to Portugal

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A CULINARY CRUISE Travel writer Chris Caldicott sets sail from Bangkok to Hong Kong and discovers a whole new pace of life

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This page: Wat Arun and Chao Praya River, Bangkok, Thailand

was a cruise virgin when I boarded Viking Orion in the Thai port of Laem Chabang for a 14-day cruise through the Gulf of Thailand and South China Sea to Hong Kong. The main attraction for me was a tempting choice of culinary-themed shore excursions in exotic sounding ports along the way. Already a confirmed fan of Southeast Asian cuisine, the idea of travelling effortlessly between food capitals of the region filled me with eager anticipation. My only concern was about how well life on board a cruise ship would suit me. As expedition photographer-in-residence to the Royal Geographical Society, a freelance travel writer and a photographer with 120 countries under my belt, I was more used to travelling alone to off-piste destinations with a flexible timetable. I had never been on an ocean voyage, only flown over the seas and oceans that cover over seventy percent of the planet.

This was going to be a whole new way of travel that put a new perspective on my rather smug sense of global conquest. The appeal of never having to pack, unpack, spend time in airports or on long overland journeys was a given, I was less sure about the idea of group travel on shore and limited personal space on board. The culinary adventures began with a bang in Bangkok on Viking Orion’s complimentary ‘Panoramic’ city tour. The group dynamic worked perfectly due to QuietVox – a device that cordlessly connected each of us via personal headphones to a guide with no struggle to hear, keep up or stick together as we explored bustling food and flower markets piled high with fresh blooms, lemongrass, galangal, fresh turmeric and chillies. We later enjoyed shared conversation while feasting on Thai red, green and yellow curries and Som Tum green papaya salad in a local restaurant.

Clockwise from left: Viking Orion against the dramatic backdrop of Hong Kong Harbour; an al fresco dining option onboard; a local woman wearing a traditional hat; sunset over Sihanoukville, Cambodia

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; AWL; CHRIS CALDICOTT

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That evening, Viking Orion proved its onboard culinary credentials with a fabulous zingy lobster Pad Thai, a delicate banana blossom curry and an aromatic Tom Yum Goong soup on its ‘La Route Des Indes’ destination-inspired Chef ’s Table tasting menu. By the time we set sail for Cambodia, all my reservations had evaporated into the warm tropical air. My spacious Scandinavian-style stateroom with sliding glass doors onto a private veranda was ideal for room service breakfasts, and drifting off to sleep open to fresh air and the sound of the sea. With my body clock still in a distant time zone I woke early, so headed to the promenade deck which I had all to myself. As the ship powered its way across the mill pond calm sea, the pace of my quarter of a mile circumambulations quickened as I drank in the spectacle of a starboard silver moon setting into an inky sky and the port side pre-dawn colours emerging behind crimson crested fluffy clouds. I completed 20 circuits (five miles and 10,000 steps) before breakfast, a brilliant start to any day! In Sihanoukville I signed up for a cooking school excursion to a chef training institute, where eager smily young students taught me and a small group of fellow passengers to make the creamy coconut and kroeung curry paste infused Khmer favourite, fish amok. After visiting the monks at Wat Krom monastery the next morning on the included tour, I jumped ship and headed off with some new friends to an idyllic white sand beach where we stayed until sunset, watched with a cold Angkor beer and steaming bowls of wok stirfried Kampot pepper crab. Far from being dull, sea days offered a welcome chance to re-group, read and soak up some sun. I relaxed into a routine of early morning promenade walks, dips in the infinity pool (that felt like an extension of the sea), lazy alfresco lunches on the SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Clockwise from top: The iconic scene of the limestone karsts rising out of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam; traditional Dim Sum on display; the giant reclining Buddha in Sihanoukville, Cambodia

World Café terrace, some more calorie-busting exercise on the sports deck. I dropped in on informative lectures in The Theatre and chilled out (literally) in the LivNordic Spa’s snow grotto. After dinner, Viking Orion’s main pool became a sort of sun lounger drive-in-style outdoor Bose headphone ‘silent’ cinema, with a retractable roof ready to slide into action if rain threatened to stop play. On the top deck a unique state of the art planetarium showed 3D films explorations of the universe and had an astrological telescope for star gazing sessions with real time commentary from an onboard astronomer. So there was never a dull moment. To reach Ho Chi Minh City we sailed far from the open sea up the Saigon River towards the city’s beating heart. I headed up to the viewing deck of the Explorers’ Lounge each time we sailed into a new port, and loved the anticipation of watching a new destination slowly reveal itself – with a promise of adventures to come. A street stall bowl of noodle soup made a tasty snack before a three-wheeler cycle tour of the colonial era sights of Old Saigon and Ho Chi Minh’s vast intoxicating Ben Thành market. In the expert company of one of the ship’s chefs, the next morning I travelled to a smaller market in search of ingredients for my ‘from market fare to table’ hands on cooking class back at the Kitchen Table on board that evening From Chan May, I opted for a day trip to the laid back traffic-free streets and narrow lanes and thriving food markets of the ancient trading port of Hoi An. Crispy Banh Xeo and shrimp pancakes and sweet and sour Banh Cuon fresh prawn rice pepper rolls made excellent snacks on the hoof on our leisurely stroll between atmospheric old merchant houses and antique Chaozhou Chinese Assembly Halls. We sailed on north to the majestic limestone khast islands of Halong Bay that magically rise out of the water. Here, my shore leave was a drive to Vietnam’s bustling capital Hanoi. We stoped off on the way for a cup of Vietnam’s famous ‘drop coffee’ in a small Red River Delta village surrounded by iridescent green rice paddies so synonymous with those images of Vietnamese countryside. After a walking tour exploring the elegant blend of French colonial and traditional oriental influence on this quintessential Asian city, we shared a delicious home cooked meal of lau hotpot sitting on the floor with a local family in a city neighbourhood. By the time we sailed into the dramatic skyline of Hong Kong there was no doubt that this style of travel suited me. On my last day I took Hong Kong’s Ngong Ping Skyrail to the summit of Lantau Island and joined pilgrims and other tourists for a vegetarian lunch of shiitake mushrooms and tofu cooked for the monks next to the world’s largest seated outdoor Buddha, at Po Lin Monastery overlooking one of the most spectacular ports in the world; a fitting end to my epic Southeast Asian culinary cruise adventure. A 14-day 2021 Southeast Asia & Hong Kong journey from Hong Kong to Bangkok starts from £5,290pp.

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ON BOARD

Screen time

Offering a daily dose of cultural enrichment, the onboard Atrium display features thoughtfully selected imagery and celebrates Viking’s cultural partnerships across the globe

n keeping with the special touches that evoke Viking heritage, each Viking ocean ship features a large display screen in the Atrium showing a selection of carefully curated imagery to add insight to the destinations you are visiting. Via partnerships with cultural organisations around the world, guests have access to a unique collection, tailored not only to their itinerary but also evoking the exploratory heritage of the Vikings. The Royal Horticultural Society is one such partner institution. It has worked with Viking to provide access to its images of botanic art. As Fiona Davison, Head of Libraries and Exhibitions, says: “In addition to being beautiful, national flower emblems often give insight into the eco systems, culture and history of a country and we hope that guests enjoy seeing botanical illustrations of the national flowers of the countries they pass through.” Collections displayed at port and at sea are different and project a new slide every few minutes, featuring a huge variety of genres.

AT PORT

When docked in port, guests are able to view intriguing images depicting local culture relating to the port country. From the atlas: Images from the British Library featuring maps and anthropological images from travel books spanning ancient times through to the 19th century. Art: Through partnerships with institutions like the British Museum, we display the most

photographer Alastair Miller curates this collection of images depicting striking scenes in what locals would consider the everyday. Stamps: Expressing the cultural identity of the port country, these images include a selection from Viking chairman Torstein Hagen’s personal stamp collection. Travel posters: Celebrating wanderlust and the creation of cosmopolitanism, these posters feature vibrant graphic design from the first half of the 20th century.

AT SEA

While cruising at sea, we take the time to celebrate our Viking heritage as well as the ideals of discovery and exploration through international travel.

iconic paintings, sculptures and other historical artefacts from the port country. Coins: Photographs of local coins reflect the stories that a nation and its leaders tell themselves and the rest of the world. National flowers: Curated by the Royal Horticultural Society, these vivid illustrations of national flowers in watercolour are displayed along with their Latin names. Photography: Former navigator and award-winning Viking resident

Left to right: Each Viking ship features a grand atrium with a informative and entertaining display screen; an example display screen featuring a Malaysian Hibiscus flower

Norwegian nature photography: This collection is curated by former navigator and award-winning Viking resident photographer Alastair Miller and captures the beauty and allure of the open sea and its surroundings in Norway. Viking art collection: Made up of art pieces on display on our ocean ships, this curation of work celebrates the finest Nordic art collection at sea.

TODAY IN HISTORY

Commemorating turning points in world history, as well as important moments in the history of Viking cruises, this collection includes information about world events, artistic and literary contributions and scientific advances that have guided and shaped our world. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Munch Moments Viking is proud to offer guests the chance to enjoy the work of Norway’s much-loved expressionist, Edvard Munch, with daily digital presentations in the Atrium

Clockwise, from above: The large screen in the Atrium shows daily presentations of Edvard Munch’s work; a catalogue is available with information about each artwork; Mondays are dedicated to Munch’s selfportraits; guests are welcome to sit and enjoy the series of ‘Munch Moments’ each day

dvard Munch (18631944) was a Norwegian expressionist painter and printmaker, and is recognised today as one of the world’s most famous artists. Munch was born in 1863 and began to paint at the age of just 12 years old following a childhood marked by tragedy. His mother died from tuberculosis when he was just five, and his older sister died from the same disease nine years later, resulting in his life-long interest in themes of loss and vulnerability. Munch can be said to be almost as famous for his life as he is for his art. In periods, he lived a nomadic and turbulent bohemian life,

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together with the Kristiania Bohemians in the Norwegian capital of Oslo, and with the group around the wine bar Zum schwarzen Ferkel in Berlin. During his long life as an artist, Munch experimented with the different painterly directions of his time, but it is first and foremost as a symbolist and expressionist that he has become famous. Paintings such as The Scream, Madonna, Death in the Sickroom and The Dance of Life are highly praised icons in art history. Munch lived a life devoted to art. His artistic oeuvre extends over a period of more than 60 years, during which he painted over 2,000

paintings and made over 4,000 drawings and 15,400 prints. More than half of his paintings and nearly all of his print reliefs are on display at the Munch Museum in Oslo, while Viking is the proud custodian of the largest private collection outside of the Norwegian capital, with 28 original pieces on display on its ocean ships. Thanks to an exclusive partnership with Oslo’s Munch Museum, Viking has the digital rights to the entire Munch catalogue, and is thrilled to be able to share Munch’s work with so many guests as they travel the rivers and oceans of the world. Viking’s Munch Moments series

C U LT U R E

MUNCH MOMENTS ACROSS THE WEEK Monday – dedicated to showing Munch’s many self-portraits Tuesday – the day for Munch’s most famous works Wednesday and Thursday – the lighter side of Munch’s work, featuring gardens, flowers, animals and architecture Friday – Munch’s more dramatic artworks Saturday – themes related to oceans and travel Sunday – calmer scenes, such as landscapes

comprises a collection of images illuminating the magic of this master expressionist on board, with a daily, interactive event that showcases several pieces of his great art, curated by theme, each afternoon on a large screen in the Atrium. As a result, guests have the chance to gain a comprehensive overview of Munch’s work during their journey. Showcasing the whole spectrum of Munch’s art, the collection includes self-portraits, famous works of art, as well as landscapes, seascapes, flower motifs and travel-related works. As a companion piece, the complimentary Munch Moments booklet with curatorial information on the artist and his legacy is available on board each ship. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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T R AV E L Clockwise, from this page: Traditional prayer flags fluttering in the breeze in central Tibet; a warm welcome in a home in Uglich, Russia

HOME is where the HEART IS

Home visits are a much-loved highlight of a Viking river and ocean journey. These experiences offer an encounter like no other, says Viking’s copywriter Cassie Wilcox

PHOTOS: © GETTY

othing gives you a greater insight into the lives of other people than visiting them in their homes. Only by meeting them in their personal space, surrounded by their belongings and their family, can you begin to understand and appreciate their everyday lives, and their world. So often, Viking guests say that one of the most memorable experiences on their trip is the home visit. Talking to someone, often through a translator, eating and drinking with them, and being shown around their home and garden is such a rare opportunity, and one that stays with you always. These visits also remind us that for all our differences, there is so much that we share in common. We all love, we all laugh, and we all experience good and not so good times. Perhaps the best thing about a home visit is that the privilege and pleasure of meeting people in their home works both ways. We are curious beings by nature, and your home host is just as interested in your life as you are in theirs. Whether the conversation is about children and family, work, government and politics or simply

the type of food we enjoy, it is so rewarding to learn about each other.

UGLICH, RUSSIA

The ancient town of Uglich on the Volga River is one of Russia’s Golden Ring cities (so named because they form a circular route from Moscow). Here, you will be warmly welcomed into a local home for a glimpse of the real Russia. In Russia, traditions remain

strong, and that includes eating traditional homemade Russian foods. You are likely to be served cucumbers (often grown and pickled by your host), sour bread, sweet cake, tea and home-brewed vodka, sometimes infused with local cranberries. Throughout your visit, your Viking guide will translate your questions, it’s a wonderful opportunity to find out first-hand what life is like in SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Revani, a delicious moist semolina cake flavoured with orange zest. You may even join in a toast with a glass of Assyrtiko, a local Santorini wine that’s as drinkable as the warm sun.

LHASA, TIBET

LYNGEN ALPS, NORWAY

Surrounded by majestic mountains, narrow valleys and dramatic glaciers, Norway’s Lyngen Alps are home to some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world. Here, in the small picturesque village of Svensby, nestled in the foothills of the soaring mountains, you will be welcomed by your hosts into their home, where you can experience for yourself how family life is lived in this remote region of northern Norway. Join with your hosts in some of their daily activities, including making bread and pitching horseshoes for fun. Inside a traditional Sami tent, called a lavvu, you can listen to stories about life in the mountains, while enjoying a delicious lunch, served with coffee, tea or fresh glacier water. All the while enjoying the most spectacular views.

SANTORINI, GREECE

Perhaps it’s the golden sunshine and cloudless sky. Perhaps it’s the 38

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impossibly blue sea, or the charm of island life. Whatever the reason, the legendary Greek hospitality never fails to make you smile. And a visit to a traditional island home on Santorini is guaranteed to give you a warm glow. In this idyllic setting, among the narrow and winding medieval streets, close to the ruins of a Venetian fortress, you can relax in the home of your host and discover what it is like to live on this beautiful island. Local Greek treats may include melt-in-your-mouth baklava, and

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

present – and past – Russia. Where people have gardens in Russia, they are usually full to bursting with vegetables and fruits of all kinds, and are immaculately tended. It is a real joy to wander around a little slice of life in Uglich, and an experience you will look back on fondly.

In the mountain kingdom of Tibet in the Himalayas, ancient traditions infuse every aspect of life. Lhasa has been the centre of the Tibetan Buddhist world for over a millennium, and here you can spend time at a Tibetan family’s home, and discover what daily life is like in one of the world’s most fascinating countries. Across Asia, tea drinking holds great social significance, and in Tibet it is the epitome of local hospitality. This may be explained by the remoteness of Tibet; in a country so secluded from the rest of the world, strangers are especially welcome, and you will find that the gentle spirituality of Tibetans infuses your visit with simple ceremony and gracious greetings. As you take in the modest surroundings of your host’s traditional home, you can share life’s simple pleasures. Perhaps you will drink your tea as the locals do, with yak butter. Remember, in Tibet, leaving tea in the bottom of your cup is an indication that you would like more!

T R AV E L Clockwise, from top left: A Tibetan woman welcomes Viking guests into her home in Lhasa for tea; Santorini in Greece is a magical spot to explore; Viking guests are able to visit a mountain community in Norwayâ€™s stunning Lyngen Alps

BLACK FOREST Fairytale For travel writer Gabrielle Sander, exploring the region – and its food – on an epic 26-mile cycle ride, was the highlight of her journey on the Rhine

hile picturepostcard sights, architectural delights and diving into new cultures are what make travelling the world exciting, it’s the promise of all the glorious edible discoveries that piques my interest the most. The local dishes you discover abroad; the ingredients you can pick up to evoke that holiday feeling back home. When that trip runs 800 miles along the Rhine from Basel to Amsterdam, through 40

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four countries, six cities and five towns, rich in wine and weissbier, cheese and charcuterie, schnapps, schnitzel and stroopwafels, the anticipation dials up a notch. My first Viking river cruise was a veritable spring feast for all senses: crisp April days offering muchneeded blue skies and sunshine after the long winter, technicolour tulips galore and sweet interactions with wildlife – the family of ducks that passed beneath our veranda balcony one morning in a neat

little row, and the swans we met at almost every bank along the way. Viking Eir, our comfortable home for the eight-day trip, delivered my partner and I seamlessly from one Rhine-side destination to the next; the lowlevel Longship designed perfectly to dock near the heart of the action. Each day brought a new adventure, through a rich itinerary of inclusive excursions, opportunities to explore alone, aided by the handy maps conveniently handed out at guest

PHOTOS: ISTOCK; ALAMY; GABRIELLE SANDER

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services, and well-priced, optional activities that took us even deeper into the location. The first stop after embarkation, 60km north of Basel, was the German town of Breisach. Here we hopped off the boat and onto e-bikes to get a taste of the Black Forest and the eponymous gateaux. The next day, the French city of Strasbourg delighted with its picturesque old town of colourful, half-timbered medieval houses, winding canals, and waterside restaurants serving up boards of delicious mountain cheese and crisp Alsatian Rieslings. In Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university town, the inclusive tour taught us interesting nuggets of local history, tales of the male-dominated fraternities housed in the grand baroque houses, and the story behind the red sandstone castle perched 330 feet at the top – the world’s largest wine barrel residing inside. Some free time at the end allowed for souvenir shopping, peoplewatching at one of the cafés lining the main square, and a hefeweizen at micro-brewery, Kulturbrauerei. Rüdesheim, in the heart of the Rheingau, marked the start of vineyard country, which stretched over the next three days in an endless patchwork of verdant stripes. Here we were introduced to the paper-thin flammkuchen, an Alsatian ode to the pizza, topped with lardons, crème fraiche and onions, and the brandy-spiked Rüdesheim coffee, first via generous samples handed out during the onboard cookery demonstration, then at a restaurant in town, where we dined that evening. Through the Upper Middle

Rhine, we congregated on the top deck for a dazzling display of fairy tale, Romantic-era castles, accompanied by homemade icecream and peach bellinis handed out by the crew. Steep vineyards melted into pretty sugared almond villages each with their own legend to tell, entertainingly regaled by cruise director, Ivan. The most

famous was Lore Lay, the goldenhaired maiden who mesmerised sailors to their shipwrecked demise, marked by the jutting Lorelei Rock, at the point where the Rhine curves at its deepest and narrowest towards Koblenz. At Koblenz, we docked at the mouth of the Moselle river and joined an optional excursion into the 300-mile-long valley, bordered by some of the world’s steepest vineyards. Our guide spoke of the 2,000-year-old viticulture traditions, the legend of the wine witch and the protected Apollo butterfly fluttering around these parts, before taking us to Winningen, a village where vines grow along and between the houses like telephone wires – their roots helping to keep the cellars dry. Following a tour of a family-run winery and tutored tasting of superb Riesling and Pinot Noir wines, we made our tipsy way back to the ship.

Clockwise, from top right: Viking Eir sailing along the Rhine; half-timbered houses in La Petite France, Strasbourg; traditional French saucisson; the view through the gate from Hagenbach tower in Breisach

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That evening, as we sailed towards Cologne, the ship laid on a Taste of Germany-themed feast. The Viking team, dressed in Lederhosen and Dirndls, delivered glasses of Kolsch, while a traditional display of bretzels, veal schnitzel and sugar-dusted kaiserschmarrn adorned the buffet. 24 hours later, after a day of solo sightseeing in Cologne enriched with sweet spicy trays of currywurst and 360-degree vistas from the top of the Köln Triangle, we enjoyed a direct 42

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view of the Dom Cathedral and an onboard performance by the Cologne Symphony Orchestra. After Germany came Holland, marked by the distinctly flat landscape dotted with wind turbines and Friesian cows, and stroopwafels at the coffee station. The optional excursion du jour took us to a cheese farm, where we ate creamy shards of Gouda, took selfies with the giant, wax-covered rounds and stocked up for home. We marvelled at the 19 windmills that make up the UNESCO World Heritage site, Kinderdijk. Then, just as soon as we’d fallen hook, line and sinker for the river cruising way of life, it was time to disembark at Amsterdam and head home. But not before exploring the characterful capital: to the tulip market for spring bulbs, dodging bicycles along the 165 canals, window-shopping the independent boutiques lining De Negen Straatjes, and tucking into sweet and savoury treats at one of the many pancake houses. An 8-day 2021 Romantic Danube trip, departing from Budapest, starts from £1,595pp.

PHOTOS: ISTOCK/GABRIELLE SANDER

Clockwise from above: Rustic windmills in Holland; Gabrielle on her e-bike; a farmyard cow; colourful town houses; Gabrielle samples some local beer; rows of Gouda cheeses spotted during an optional excursion

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EXPLORING THE BLACK FOREST ON E-BIKE

When I spied the Black Forest e-bike ride in the list of optional activities at Breisach, it sounded like the perfect way to stretch my legs, get off the beaten track and explore an area of southern Germany known for its beauty: an eight-hour route through landscapes that inspired the Brothers Grimm tales, and a chance to tuck into the famous gateau. I selected and adjusted my bike to the right height and took a test ride to check I hadn’t defied the old ‘you never forget to ride a bike’ adage. Then, helmet clasped, listened attentively as our guides, Lydia and Nick, talked through the plan for the day, took our lunch order and explained the bike settings. It was a wonderful start, following a traffic-free trail along the banks of the Rhine which sparkled beneath the cloudless sky; swans casually gliding and preening and red kites scouting with predatory intent overhead. We ducked off the path and onto a woodland track, keeping eyes peeled for

the wild pigs, deer and woodpeckers we were told roamed these parts. Wild garlic scented the air, while the sound of wood pigeons, and crunch of wheels over twigs provided the soundtrack. We popped out the other end to meet a babbling brook and weaved through sprawling farmland, where young strawberry plants grew under the warm comfort of plastic and asparagus protruded from earthy mounds. After an hour, we pulled into a little village farm shop, where a glass cabinet of homemade bakes were laid out for us to select from. It had to be a giant slab of Black Forest gateau for me, which was by far the best I’ve ever had. By 1pm, we’d zipped through many a picturesque village, past a community garden bursting with tulips, a 12th-century castle bordered by vines, and settled into the 14th-century former laboratory of Dr Faust (the protagonist of many a local legend). Sufficiently-fuelled we embarked on

the second half of the ride, starting as we were warned it was going to continue, with a steadily growing ascent until we reached a tiny village marking the start of Black Forest proper. Up and up we went, through the Black Forest magic I’d envisioned: curvaceous green hills dipping down to winding streams hugged by stone bridges. Fairytale farmhouses, goats grazing, and birds twittering melodically, I halfexpected to pass brightly coloured toadstools and a wolf in red clothing. We continued along an interchanging mix of quiet roads and forest-lined tracks, following our guides like the children of Hamelin, captivated by the landscape. The feeling when we pulled into our final destination, a family farm and restaurant, was one of giddy accomplishment. 26 miles, with or without the e-push, is a good distance. Homemade schnapps were poured and we clinked glasses to the fantastic journey we’d ridden together. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

An ESSENCE of BALM Award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes explains how the humble Lemon Balm plant influenced rulers of Europe, and how it could help you this spring

Top to bottom: Lemon Balm growing alongside herbs in planters; garden designer and expert, Paul Hervey-Brookes

pring always heralds fresh and abundant growth in the garden. No other time of year gives such such a verdant and rapid re-clothing of the garden than the months of spring. Flowers bloom and fruits such as strawberries begin to set. For those who worked hard sowing carrots, radish and lettuce in March, the first home-grown salad crops of the year will be a tasty reward. All this growth means work, weeding, cutting back alongside the little jobs that winter did not allow to be completed, and that’s before you mow the lawn. It is a good job that the garden can offer both the exercise – with its associated muscle aches – and the cure.

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The humble Lemon Balm, a perennial herbaceous plant with rich, lemon-scented foliage could be the answer to gardeners’ prayers. Not only does it have the capacity to relieve aches and pains, but across Europe signs of its influence on history can be seen in almost every country. Native to southern Europe, its slow spread across the continent and to England was complete by the mid-Mediaeval period. Melissa officianalis is highly attractive to bees and it is from the Greek for ‘bee’ that its Latin name is derived. The most commonly used names are either Lemon Balm or Sweet Balm, both coming from an abbreviation of Balsam. One of its oldest reputed properties is as a restorative and elixir of life, which is not bad for a humble

easy-to-care-for perennial plant. Paracelsus, a Swiss-born physician, alchemist and astrologer of high repute during the German Renaissance period, believed it would ‘completely revivify man’ and it was often used in treatments of related to the nervous system. In the London Dispensary Medical Journal of 1696 it says: ‘An essence of balm, given in canary wine, every morning will renew youth, strengthen the brain, relieve languishing nature and prevent baldness’. John Evelyn, a famous English diarist and gardener in the mid 1600s, believed it to be an aid to strengthening memory and ‘chasing away melancholy’. Llewelyn, Prince of Glamorgan who ruled Wales in the late 1170s reputedly lived until he was 108 and breakfasted on sweet balm tea, as did Mary

GARDENING Stuart’s Chamberlain, John Hussey 1st Baron Sleaford who reportedly lived until he was 116. Carmelite water, of which balm was the chief ingredient, was drunk by Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, daily. Carmelite water was crafted originally in the 14th century by nuns at the Abbey of St Just as a tonic for the ailing French King Charles V. It can be made at home or purchased and is a mixture of spirit of balm, lemon peel, angelica root, and nutmeg. John Gerard, author of the famous Gerard’s Herbal first published in 1597 and Dioscorides the greek physician author of Materia Medica, written between 50 and 70 BCE, both stated that it helps in the healing of wounds. Pliny wrote that ‘balm, being applied, doth close up wounds without any peril or inflammation’, and this is now recognised by modern science since the balsamic oils of aromatic plants are used to make surgical dressings. Lemon balm will propagate readily from seed and cuttings taken in late spring through to early summer. It is possible to sow the seed ripe, as in fresh seed collected in autumn and sown direct into seed trays left outside in a sheltered spot. I tend to grow the plain green leaved plant, Melissa officinalis and Melissa officinalis ‘Aurea’ as this has a milder flavour and suits being used in salads. Each leaf is irregularly splashed with bright drops of golden sunshine-like colour. However, both the variegated form and pure golden, or yellow form, tend to suffer from the harsh mid-day sun so offer them partial shade or you will end up with brown miserable plants. Historically, Melissa was always grown near bees and not just because of its attractiveness in terms

Clockwise, from left: Strawberries begin to set in early Spring; Lemon Balm can be added to bath water as an essential oil, perfect for curing aches and pains

of its flowers. Gerard explained that, ‘It is profitably planted where bees are kept. The hives of bees being rubbed with the leaves of bawme, causeth the bees to keep together, and casueth others to come with them’. Pliny echoes this theory by stating, ‘When they strayed away they do find their way home by it’. Apart from drinking teas made with it and eating its leaves, perhaps the easiest use for gardeners is to collect stems of lemon balm in a bunch, tie them and hang under a hot tap, which makes for a wonderfully relaxing bath. As the hot water runs over the leaves, essential oils are released which have a relaxing effect on aches and pains. Of course if you don’t have space to grow one of these plants but now fancy a steamy lemonscented relaxing bath then you can get a very similar effect with good quality cold-pressed essential oil. Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of this story for me as a gardener and someone who likes to travel is that when we travel to new countries we see the footprints of great rulers, religious figures and patrons of the arts, all thanks to their immense endeavours living a kind of immortality through

the great buildings and history they have left. Plants are so often overlooked but conjure up the most fascinating histories. We can still touch, smell, taste and reward our senses with them in exactly the same way as Dioscorides would have nearly 2000 years ago.

FIVE 5-MINUTE SPRING JOBS 1. If you grow old heritage variety roses now is the time to tie them in with supports to ensure the heavy flowers do not snap stems or bruise under spring showers. 2. Mulch in-between soft fruit plants such as raspberries, gooseberries and strawberries to reduce pest damage and weeding throughout the summer. 3. Up until the end of May we can get cold nights and frosts. Be vigilant and ensure you have fleece or lightweight covers for tender vegetable plants, tender annuals and larger plants such as tree ferns to keep the risk of stunted growth to a minimum.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

4. Cut back the faded flowering heads of daffodils and tulips before they have a chance to set seed. This will ensure all of the strength is returned to the bulb for next year. Do not be tempted to cut the foliage off as this will reduce flowering next year. 5. If you grow a lot of houseplants then April and May are ideal months to take them outside for the day, repot them into larger containers and give them a good wash. Just remember not to leave them outside overnight.

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Buckle bag (£39.95, White Stuff)

Linen tunic (£59.95, White Stuff)

Linen trousers (£55, White Stuff)

Chunky necklace (£65, Hobbs)

For women...

A softer yellow can look fabulous with navy blue or a range of greys

Hello

Yellow Horizon jumper (£55, White Stuff)

Wayfarer sunglasses (£24, Oliver Bonas) Button-up cardigan (£49.95, White Stuff)

Spring signals a fresh new approach, so dive into the new season with a renewed sense of colour Patterned scarf (£65, Hobbs)

Colourful chinos (£55, White Stuff)

Jumper and velvet skirt (from a selection at Oasis) Camel lace-ups (£85, Dune)

FA S H I O N

Colour block scarf (£29.50, Fat Face)

and for men...

Yellow accents mix well with a range of neutrals

Beanie hat (£7.50, Marks and Spencers)

Yellow sweater (£69, Hobbs) Popover shirt (£109, Barbour)

Rugby shirt (£49.95, White Stuff)

Coat, dress and shoes (from a selection at Debenhams)

Beaded earrings (£12.99, Bonprix)

Checked shirt (£29.50, Marks and Spencer) Printed skirt (£59.50, Oliver Bonas)

Cotton chinos (£45, White Stuff)

Espadrilles (£40, Dune)

Recycled swimsuit (£32, Accessorize) Insulated bottle (£20, One Green Bottle)

Tote bag (£129, Hobbs)

Flexi slider (£22, Wallis)

Suede jacket (from a selection at Burton)

T R AV E L

Clockwise, from top left: The traditional alcoholic spirit, Bergens Aquavit; rustic interiors found in Bergen, Norway; the Nordic sauna on board Viking Jupiter; the splendid mountainous view from Geiranger and Eagleâ€™s Bend; the Spa offers a heavenly place to relax or enjoy a tranquil dip; Frances riding her horse Silfi; a gloriously sunny day in TromsĂ¸, the largest city in northern Norway; guests can play a tune or two on the grand piano in the Atrium

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T R AV E L

ARCTIC GOLD When travel writer Frances Marcellin set off on an adventure in Norway, she had no idea that the cruise would have such a profound impact on her life

PHOTOS: ALASTAIR MILLER/ FRANCES MARCELLIN

Above: Viking Jupiter taking in views of deep-cut fjords along the pristine Norwegian coastline

orse riding on a deserted beach had been a dream of mine ever since I was a little girl hacking out ponies on weekends in the UK. I never thought the day would come and I’d never imagined it would happen in Norway. Yet, here I was riding Silfri, a sweet-natured Icelandic horse whose name described his tufty silvery blonde mane, along a stunning white-sand beach. I was in Hov, on the tranquil island of Gimsøy in the Lofoten archipelago, where less than 200 people live. Since falling from my horse just over a decade ago and breaking two ‘wing’ bones in my lumbar spine, I hadn’t ridden at all. It had resulted in six weeks of life altering bed rest and I became too frightened to ride again for fear of

risking a similar injury or worse. But when I read about Viking’s horse riding excursion on the Into the Midnight Sun cruise, I felt it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity too good too miss. It was then that I realised how a cruise experience can offer you just the right level of adventure, exploration and relaxation for your needs. I wasn’t ready for official riding lessons at the local equestrian centre or a full-blown adventure holiday, but since discovering a passion for trail running earlier on in the year, my fitness and confidence had increased considerably, so it felt like the right moment to finally face my fear. The ride would only take a couple of hours, I’d told myself, so even if I couldn’t overcome my anxiety I wouldn’t have to be in

that situation for long. Afterwards I could relax on the new and luxurious Viking Jupiter. The morning brought a panoramic tour of Lofoten, which included sightseeing to spellbinding Haukland Beach, one of the most picturesque beaches in Norway, and to Ballstad, a scenic and traditional fishing village. Later that day, with the dramatic setting of Lofoten’s mountains behind and the beach to ourselves, I learned that one of my fellow riders hadn’t ridden a horse since she was in her twenties. She felt excited to be on horseback again and was so moved by the experience of riding in the beguiling seaside location. We also rode trails that showed us more of this wild island, from the fairy tale-like Norwegian turf SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Above: The charming fishing village of Ballstad, located on a small island off the tip of the island of Vestvågøya in the Lofoten archipelago

torvtak roofs to the ancient wild a marathon. It’s the same for the and tried the Destination Menu trails, which 1,000 years ago were Snow Grotto, some can stay for ten at The Restaurant. The Norwegian covered by Viking Chieftain Tore minutes, but others have chattering haddock fishcakes were delicious Hjort. Every single moment was an teeth after just 30 seconds. and handsomely crowned with absolute pleasure. “We, at LivNordic, encourage colourful raw vegetable strips. Afterwards, we were driven you to always follow your inner Reindeer patties with onion confit back to the ship and, still buzzing voice – be present and when you were also on the menu. from my accomplishment and with feel enough is enough you go I’ve always loved spending time slightly stiff knees, I treated myself out from one source and straight with horses and dogs, which is to a Nordic spa ritual. I went into the opposite,” she explained. why the first excursion I’d chosen from hammam to Snow Grotto “It is supposed to be a relaxing on this trip was a husky-trekking three times – not session. We’d travelled only is it genuinely The morning brought a panoramic tour to Kvaløya – known rejuvenating, but Island of Lofoten, which included sightseeing to as– toWhale hot and cold bathing the Tromsø actually improves Villmarksenter where beautiful Haukland Beach your immune system. 300 huskies live. Our Viking’s spa area is the most experience, a sanctuary from mission was to walk them through heavenly place to relax and focus on the outer world where you can the countryside so that they keep your wellbeing. disconnect and just allow nature to up their fitness levels for the I wasn’t sure how much time cleanse your body, mind and soul.” forthcoming sledding season – but I should be spending in each Benefits include improved it hands down gave me a workout environment, but the truth is circulation, less stress and anxiety, too. With their leads attached to that there isn’t a set number as it and the release of endorphins, waist belts, our group speedily varies from person to person. The which reduces pain and promotes hiked with seven dogs. We were not LivNordic Spa manager told me that feel good sensation. Rubbing as helpful as quad bikes though, that some people can sit for 20 snow into my knees even relieved our guide told us, which can train minutes in a steam room before their stiffness. I was hooked. 14 dogs at a time, but it is far better they start breaking a sweat, whereas That evening I wanted to for these dogs to socialise with others sit for five minutes yet connect more with the place that humans in this way. sweat like they’ve been running had found its way into my heart, Back on board, lunch out on

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PHOTOS: ISTOCK

T R AV E L

deck in the Arctic air at the World the gushing 400-metre Seven Sisters the famous fish market and the old Café beckoned. With views of waterfall by turning the ship 360 Nordnes neighbourhood. This is Tromsø Bridge across the waters degrees in the fjord. It’s true what my favourite part of Bergen and I to the gleaming white Arctic visit it every time I’m in this city – I they say, that from a distance it Cathedral – which resembled the looks like the hair of seven women. adore the pretty wooden houses shell-like roof of Sydney Opera That night we dined at The and quiet neighbourhood streets. House – there was nowhere else on Chef ’s Table to experience more There are both active and earth I wanted to be. Norwegian delights. The reindeer cultural excursions available in After an energising sushi lunch, Bergen, including flightseeing over consommé was paired with Pinot I was ready to embark on my own fjords and glaciers, experiencing Noir and there was also fårikål adventure. Having read that you a local Norwegian farm and a (sheep in cabbage) - Norway’s can travel by cable national dish. Dessert car up to Storsteinen was cloudberry soup, We were so lucky to visit in sunny (which is one of the highly prized weather and cloudless skies, it meant we these best places to see the amber fruits look like midnight sun), part could soak up the awe-inspiring views raspberries and grow of Mount Fløya, I in marshlands, for this wanted to run up the 671-metre reason some call them Arctic Gold. group hike past the beautiful mountain by myself and see how I’ve coined this term for my Skomakerdiket lake and up Mount far I could get. The views were own use too. Since I returned from Fløien for views over the town. some of the best over Tromsø and it my trip to Norway, I’ve started I crave panoramic splendour was invigorating exploring the town and one of the most breathtaking horse riding again and ran my first and the mountain on foot. marathon, so I am feeling more moments of the trip had been I found that in Bergen the confident than I have done in years. at Eagle’s Bend viewpoint in runseeing method worked well too. Geiranger. We were so lucky to visit Now, if I get asked to describe my I mapped out a route that covered experience on Viking’s Into the in sunny weather and cloudless about 10km (6.2 miles) to take skies, it meant we could soak up the Midnight Sun cruise, I tell them me past all the places I wanted it was pure Arctic Gold. awe-inspiring views of the harbour to see. It included Bryggen (the and S-shaped Geirangerfjord. As we A 15-day 2021 Into the Midnight colourful dock and UNESCO cruised out our captain made sure Sun trip starts from £5,290pp. World Heritage Site since 1979), that everyone on board got to see SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ON LOCATION with Karine

Karine Hagen, Executive Vice President of Viking, shares her latest adventures and insights from her travels around the world

ast summer, a few colleagues and I, joined by our Chairman, spent a spellbinding weekend in Svalbard. This spectacular archipelago under Norwegian sovereignty also boasts the closest settlement in the world to the North Pole. It was a magical and humbling experience amid majestic flora and fauna, and for the first time in my life I felt I was truly a guest of nature. With the launch of Viking Expeditions, we are now able to offer our guests phenomenal polar experiences in both the Arctic and the Antarctic. For more details visit vikingcruises.co.uk/expeditions

STOP, LOOK & LISTEN Amid the absence of manufactured noise, we can discover the magical music of nature: the cacophony of crackling ice; the flapping wings of a passing bird; the gentle bark of a seal pup. These are a few of the sounds of nature that the extremities of the world offer us. In taking the time to stop, listen and look, you gain a completely new appreciation of our world. Perhaps a discipline we can apply not only on travel expeditions, but also in our daily lives. 52

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COLUMN

THE WORLD OF FINSE Even if the Arctic and the Antarctic are a little extreme in terms of destinations for younger travellers, we can still inspire children with magical tales and interesting facts about the polar regions. Join Finse, my yellow Labrador, as she learns more about the world. The latest in the series is Finse Explores The Arctic and Antarctica, with beautiful illustrations by Suzy-Jane Tanner. finse.me

DID YOU KNOW? There are some fascinating facts about the polar regions, and these are some of my favourites: How do polar bears keep warm in the Arctic? Polar bears are actually black, not white. Their jet-black skin is covered by translucent hair, which reflects white natural light. The bears depend on their fur for insulation during the harsh winter months. Dirty, wet and matted fur is less likely to keep the animals warm, so they roll in the snow to keep it clean. The Arctic is home to the largest seed storage facility in the world More than 800 miles inside the Arctic Circle lies the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, a storage facility run by the Norwegian government. Built into the permafrost, the building holds seeds for more than 4,000 plant species, including life-sustaining food crops. The seed vault has been created to keep the seeds safe in the event of a natural or man-made disaster.

What time is Antarctic time? Just as at the North Pole, if you stand at the South Pole, you will find yourself in all the world’s time zones at once, as technically the lines of longitude meet at the North and South Poles. The people working in the Antarctic research stations generally tend to use the time zone of the port from which they departed, or the country for which they are working. Antarctica has a red waterfall Antarctica is full of natural wonders. In the east, hidden below the ice is a magical subglacial lake that is high in salt and iron. When the water comes into contact with the air, the iron oxidises giving the waterfall its deep red colour – and the reason for its name, Blood Falls. Discover our Top 10 fascinating facts about the Arctic and Antarctica online at vikingtop10.co.uk

FLORA IN FOCUS When you travel with us on our expedition ships you’ll find plenty of binoculars on hand for appreciating the more distant wildlife and views. But you don’t have to look far to be awed by nature. With a field microscope in hand, an entirely new world will reveal itself. In a seemingly barren land, the tiniest Saxifraga, when observed through a field microscope, will display minute, yet spectacular details not visible to the naked eye. Discover the flora of the Arctic in our online video at vikingcruises.co.uk/expeditions/video/all SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

PICASSO and PAPER Curator Ann Dumas joins us to discuss the new exhibition showcasing Pablo Picasso’s work involving paper, on at the Royal Academy of Arts in London Can you describe what visitors to the Picasso and Paper exhibition will be able to see?

Above, from top: The Royal Academy of Arts in London © Fraser Marr; exhibition curator Ann Dumas © Benedict Johnson

Visitors will be able to see works on paper of all types – drawings, prints, papiers collés, collages and even little sculptures – that Picasso made throughout the whole of his long career. The exhibition is displayed in chronological sections, beginning with his earliest works and ending with some of the great prints that preoccupied his final years. So the visitor can appreciate the whole of Picasso’s very varied development through about 350 works, all selected from a specific angle – paper, an approach that, as far as I am aware, has never

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been undertaken on such a large scale before. What kind of paper did Picasso use and how did he elevate it to become art?

Picasso was fascinated by paper and used all kinds, ranging from expensive historic papers from the French Revolutionary period to the most humble bits of wrapping paper, backs of envelopes and even blotting paper. In his hands, all kinds of paper could become the support for a great work of art. Although he often chose his papers carefully, he was not rigid. A scrap of paper could be used for a highly accomplished drawing. Picasso loved to incorporate a childlike approach to his work. Do you think his use of paper is tied into this desire somehow?

Yes, I do. The earliest works we have in the show are a dove and a

dog that he cut from cheap brown paper when he was only nine years old. And many years later, in the 1940s, we find him doing child-like drawings in coloured pens on little sheets of paper. The informality of paper permitted the possibility of experiment and playfulness. From the cut-outs to the collages, sculptures to prints, the range of different ways that Picasso experimented with paper is extraordinary. What do you think it says about him as an artist?

It is probably not an exaggeration to say that Picasso was the most experimental artist of all time. He was always pushing beyond the boundaries of convention in every medium, experimenting with many different printing techniques, for example, and combining techniques such as print-making with photography in new ways. The freedom that paper allowed

C U LT U R E reinforced his never-ending quest for innovation. Alongside his artwork, Picasso was fascinated with printmaking techniques and sourced rare, antique paper from countries like Japan. To what extent was he inspired by other cultures’ use of paper?

Picasso was certainly interested in the art of other cultures, notably African art which had such an impact on his seminal work, Les Demoiselles d’Avignon of 1907, but I don’t think he particularly sought out papers from other cultures. So-called Japan paper, although it originated in Japan, is a term used to describe a particular type of high-quality but widelyavailable paper renowned for its smoothness. Picasso, and other artists, favoured it for drawings, but he would have bought it in France and not imported it from Japan. Picasso particularly loved Japan paper, once commenting: ‘By chance, I managed to get hold of a stock of Japanese paper. It cost me an arm and a leg! But without it, I’d never have done these drawings. The paper seduced me.’

As well as the works of art on show, you also have sketchbooks, letters, cards, illustrated poems and photographs on display. Did he ever discuss about his use of paper or various techniques?

There are few recorded statements of Picasso describing his

techniques. However, some of the master printers he worked with commented on his versality and virtuosic skill, and the speed with which he could pick up new techniques in which he had little formal training. The collage Women at their Toilette (1937-38) is monumental in size, measuring 4.5 metres in length. Do you think his collages inspired other artists to use paper?

Yes. Artists who were his contemporaries, such as Juan Gris and Georges Braque, with whom he invented Cubism, as well as many artists in the 20th century, especially the Dadaists such as Max Ernst, Joan Miró and especially Kurt Schwitters, were all inspired by his use of paper. The 20thcentury British artist Peter Blake experimented with cut papers, as did Robert Rauschenberg, and, of course, Matisse with his famous paper cut-outs made at the end of his career. Do you have a favourite piece in the exhibition?

The coloured Minotauromachy etching of 1935. It is, of course, a well-known masterpiece and perhaps Picasso’s greatest print. I find this enigmatic and poetic work endlessly fascinating. The iconography is complex and draws in many threads that were important to Picasso: the minotaur theme (a sort of alter-ego for the artist), the bullfight, the innocent

girl whose lighted candle suggests hope, and who may allude to his companion Marie-Thérese Walter. Technically, it is a tour de force of colour etching. Paper is such a delicate thing, yet some of the works of art seem so strong and sculptural. Was it this juxtaposition that drew Picasso to paper?

I think it was fundamentally drawing that kept bringing him back to paper, that and his love of the material itself in all its varieties and his need for experiment.

Above: Pablo Picasso, Head of a Woman, Mougins, 4 December 1962. Pencil on cut and folded wove paper, 42 x 26.5 cm. Musée national Picasso-Paris. Pablo Picasso Gift in Lieu, 1979. MP1850. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée national Picasso-Paris) / Béatrice Hatala. © Succession Picasso/DACS 2019.

Exhibition organised by the Royal Academy of Arts, London and the Cleveland Museum of Art in partnership with the Musée national Picasso-Paris.

Right: Pablo Picasso, Femmes à leur toilette, Paris, winter 1937–38. Collage of cutout wallpapers with gouache on paper pasted onto canvas, 299 x 448 cm. Musée national Picasso-Paris. Pablo Picasso Gift in Lieu, 1979. MP176. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée national Picasso-Paris) / Adrien Didierjean. © Succession Picasso/DACS 2019.

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In PICASSO’S FOOTSTEP

Journalist Oonagh Turner discovers Pablo Picasso’s personal connections with the Spanish cities of Malaga, the artist’s birthplace, and Barcelona, where he spent his formative years Top to bottom: A panoramic view of Malaga and beyond; Pablo Picasso in his studio

aking waves in the art world from the turn of the 19th Century, Pablo Picasso has long been regarded as one of the world’s most influential artists, playing a pivotal role in the Cubist movement and aiding the development of a plethora of fascinating artistic styles. While Picasso’s career inevitably took him, like so many other young artists of the time, to the then art capital, Paris, Picasso’s life also played out extensively in Spain. Picasso was born in Malaga before moving to Barcelona and living here from the ages of 14 to 24. The two cities were instrumental in shaping his art and even today, they continue to remain synonymous with his legacy.

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long-standing connections to the thriving Barcelona art scene and to Picasso. The artist presented his first commercial gallery exhibition here in 1901 at just 20 years of age with a selection of delicate pastel drawings. The gallery went on to put on the joint exhibition with the Catalan portraitist, Ramon Casas, who documented the lives of Barcelona’s political and intellectual elite. The gallery sits in the heart of the Gothic Quarter and makes for a cultural break from wandering the district’s cobbled backstreets.

BARCELONA SALA PARÉS

Established in 1877, Sala Parés remains one of the oldest art galleries in the world, and has

ELS QUATRE GATS

The Spanish answer to Paris’s Le Chat Noir, this late 19th century cultural cafe was initially a spot for artistic and intellectual liaisons and a meeting point for the city’s most prominent modernist figures.

C U LT U R E The venue also offered its walls as a concert and exhibition hall and Picasso famously illustrated the poster and even held his first ever public exhibition here in 1900, when he was just 19. Hidden away in the heart of Barcelona’s old town, Picasso and his artist friends would socialise and while away the hours drinking – now the pastime of tourists and local Spaniards alike.

Clockwise, from bottom left: The Cathedral tower and fountain in Plaza del Obispo, Malaga; Sala Parés, the oldest art gallery in Barcelona; visitors enjoy the display at the Picasso Museum, Malaga

MUSEO PICASSO, BARCELONA

Housing an extensive collection of Picasso’s works spanning the entirety of his career, Barcelona’s Museo Picasso is a fantastic opportunity to truly understand how the artist developed his artistic style. Focusing on the artist’s early years – especially those up until the end of the Blue Period – helps paint a picture of Picasso’s connection to the city. Catch a glimpse of Retrato de la tía Pepa for an insight into the artist’s immense artistic maturity from the young age of 15. Woman with Bonnet is also an important piece that chronicles his interest in capturing the povertystricken lower echelons of society. Aside from the art, the setting itself provides an idyllic break from the bustle of the metropolis, with tranquil courtyards offering up space to retreat and reflect on the artist’s genius.

MALAGA

MUSEO PICASSO, MALAGA

An entire gallery devoted to Picasso’s connection to Malaga. Despite being the city’s greatest artistic export, the museum only came into fruition in 2003 after decades of planning. Today, the walls are hung with over 200 works donated by relatives of the artist. Of the gallery’s highlights, Picasso’s painting of his sister Lola from when he was in his early teens is a favourite and early example of his talent, as well as a selection of sculptures, ceramics and sketches. The museum is a stone’s throw from the seafront, and is housed in the 16th-century Buenvista Palace. MUSEO CASA NATAL

Literally translating to birthplace museum, this tourist hot spot is an unmissable ode to Picasso, honouring his place of birth in the heart of the historic district. An official heritage site since 1983, this is the optimum spot where tourists can gage a full

understanding of who the young artist was in the 1890s. Visitors can browse a rotating collection and gain a valuable insight into the iconic artist’s childhood influences. The gallery has plenty of works on display by the artist and his father, José Ruiz Blasco, as well as personal artefacts from the Picasso family. The works have largely been donated from the private collections of the Picasso family and total almost 300 pieces. CENTRE POMPIDOU MALAGA

Aesthetically similar in style to the iconic Parisian landmark gallery, and a branch of the world-famous Centre Georges Pompidou, this Malaga museum is artfully modern with a colourful pop art-style glass entrance. The museum is close to the Port of Malaga, making it an ideal cultural stop off after a day at the nearby beach. Primarily focusing on 20th and 21st century art, the likes of Frida Kahlo, Kandinsky and Francis Bacon can be seen on its walls, as well as the city’s son – Picasso’s. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ITINERARY

Marvellous Med Immerse yourself in Renaissance masterpieces, Tuscan art and iconic seaside treasures on this glorious voyage from Barcelona to the French Riviera to Florence DAY 1 / BARCELONA, SPAIN Your journey begins with an overnight stay in this endlessly enthralling city. You’ll have time to explore in the evening – feast on delicious tapas or catch a flamenco performance.

DAY 2 / BARCELONA, SPAIN Awake in Barcelona for a day of sightseeing. Wander around the charming Gothic Quarter, stroll along the colourfully chaotic thoroughfare Las Ramblas and marvel at Antoni Gaudí’s architectural wonders, such as Casa Batlló, Park Güell and the iconic La Sagrada Familia.

DAY 3 / MONTPELLIER (SÈTE), FRANCE

DAY 6 / FLORENCE/PISA, ITALY Witness the splendours of the Renaissance in two of Tuscany’s renowned cultural centres. An included tour of the ancient city of Pisa takes in its famous leaning tower, part of the Roman Catholic cathedral which is located in the magnificent, UNESCO-listed Square of Miracles.

DAY 7 / FLORENCE/PISA, ITALY

Stylish, sophisticated and a scholarly hub for centuries, Montpellier impresses with its elegant buildings and stately boulevards. Explore the vibrant Place de la Comédie, the art-filled Musée Fabre and striking Cathédrale St-Pierre.

A ride through picturesque countryside takes you to Florence, the utterly irresistible home of world-class art and gourmet Tuscan cuisine. Don’t miss the stunning marble-clad Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, the medieval Ponte Vecchio and Basilica di Santa Croce, the resting place of Michelangelo.

DAY 4 / MARSEILLE, FRANCE

DAY 8 / ROME, ITALY

Discover the timeless treasures of Marseille, France’s oldest city. Top sites include the atmospheric Old Port looked over by two 17th-century fortresses and the grand Notre Dame de la Garde, built in the Roman-Byzantine style in the mid-1800s.

Today you’ll wake up in Civitavecchia, the port of Rome, where you’ll depart your ship. You could spend a few extra days exploring some of the famous landmarks of this magical city in more detail on a post-cruise extension.

DAY 5 / MONTE CARLO, MONACO

The 8-day 2021 Iconic Western Mediterranean trip, from Barcelona to Rome, starts from £2,190pp.

Live like the rich and famous for a day in Monaco. 58

The Prince’s Palace and St Nicholas Cathedral are two must-sees in the medieval part of the principality while the Casino de Monte-Carlo is the most celebrated gambling mecca on the planet.

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

Above: Considered one of Gaudí’s masterpieces, Casa Batlló is a must-see attraction in the heart of Barcelona

Discover a different view of Spain Roman ruins and Moorish palaces. Revered cathedrals and renowned art. Enchanting hilltop villages and exciting cites. Epic pilgrimage trails and spectacular natural beauty. Tempting tapas and wonderful wines. No country stirs the soul like Spain. Viking offers a number of ocean journeys on which you can experience the real Spain, its people and traditions. From the historic treasures and tranquil beauty of Cartagena and Murcia province to Granada’s magnificent Alhambra Palace and the brilliance of Barcelona, our journeys give you a different view of this passionate and colourful country. Join us as we explore this beautiful land, on board a Viking ship that offers the last word in comfort.

2021 ocean journeys from £2,190pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on an Iconic Western Mediterranean ocean cruise on 6 January 2021. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

A taste of Spain Follow these simple recipes to recreate the irrestible flavours of Spain

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RECIPES

ore so than any other European cuisine, Spanish gastronomy is influenced by the culture, society, geography and climate of its different regions. In Andalucia, home to Seville and the flamenco, Serrano ham and Iberico ham are both popular. Valencia is the place to try paella, while Barcelona is known for its Catalan cuisine.

ALBÓNDIGAS CON TOMATE SERVES 4 • INGREDIENTS:

• 9 oz (255g) minced beef • 9 oz (255g) minced pork • 1 Spanish (red) onion • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 3 tbsp breadcrumbs • 2 tbsp Cheddar cheese • 2 tsp smoked sweet paprika • 1 tbsp fresh oregano • 1 egg • Salt and pepper FOR THE SAUCE:

• 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 Spanish (red) onion • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 1 red chilli, chopped • 1 tbsp fresh basil • 6 large tomatoes • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar • Salt and pepper • 2 tbsp fresh parsley FOR THE GARLIC CROUTONS:

• 1 small baguette • 2 oz (55g) butter • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 1 tbsp fresh parsley METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C. To make the meatballs, combine the beef, pork, chopped onion, garlic, breadcrumbs, grated Cheddar cheese, paprika and oregano in a bowl together with the egg. Season generously. 2. With wet hands, shape the mixture into meatballs, weighing around 1¾ oz (50g) each. Refrigerate for half an hour. 3. Meanwhile, make the garlic croutons. Melt the butter in a

saucepan and add the crushed garlic and chopped parsley. Cut the bread into cubes and toss the cubes in the butter mixture. Spread out on a baking tray and bake for 20 minutes or until crisp and golden. Keep warm until needed. 4. Next, heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the meatballs in batches, turning frequently, until they have browned all over. Transfer to a baking tray and place in the oven for 10 minutes.

5. To make the sauce, add the onion to the pan and cook until just soft and translucent. Add the garlic, chilli and basil and cook for 30 seconds, then add the chopped tomatoes and balsamic vinegar. Bring to the boil and season well with salt and black pepper. 6. Remove the meatballs from the oven and add them to the tomato sauce. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve with the garlic croutons.

Above: Rich meatballs, served in a spicy tomato sauce, often feature on traditional Spanish tapas menus

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RECIPES

PAELLA CATALUNYA SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 1 pinch saffron threads • 2 pints (950ml) fish stock • 2 tbsp olive oil • 7 oz (200g) monkfish, in pieces • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 1 large red onion, chopped • 1 tsp paprika • 2 red peppers, chopped • 9 oz (250g) paella rice • 4 large fresh tomatoes, chopped and de-seeded • 5 oz (140g) frozen peas • 1 lb (450g) squid, cleaned and sliced • 9 oz (250g) mussels, scrubbed, beards removed • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp pepper TO GARNISH:

• 4 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

METHOD:

1. Place the saffron threads into a large, wide, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and stir constantly until they just begin to give off their aroma. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Transfer to a saucepan, cover and set aside. 2. Return the pan to the heat and add 1 tbsp of oil. Add the monkfish and fry until lightly browned. Remove the fish and set aside. 3. Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan. Add the garlic, onion and paprika and cook over a moderate heat for two minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the red peppers and cook until all the vegetables are soft but not brown. 4. Add the rice and stir well, ensuring all the grains are well coated. Bring the saffron-infused stock to simmering point and add half of it to the rice. Stir, and then bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for five minutes or until almost all the liquid is absorbed. 5. Add the remaining stock, then stir in the tomatoes, peas and reserved monkfish pieces. Add the squid and simmer for five minutes. Arrange the mussels around the dish, pushing them into the rice. Simmer for a further 15 minutes or until the rice is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat, cover with foil and leave to stand for five minutes. Discard any mussels that have not opened. Garnish generously with parsley before serving.

CHURROS SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 8 fl oz (235ml) milk • 2 oz (55g) butter • 4 tbsp sugar • Pinch salt • 9 oz (255g) plain flour • 3 eggs • Vegetable oil for deep frying FOR THE CINNAMON SUGAR:

• 2 ½ oz (70g) granulated sugar • 2 tsp ground cinnamon FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE:

• 8 ½ fl oz (250ml) whipping cream • 9 oz (255g) dark chocolate, chopped • 2 tbsp hazelnut (praline) paste METHOD:

1. Place the milk, butter, sugar and salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. 2. Add the flour to the pan and mix

well to combine, cooking gently and stirring until the mixture forms a soft dough. Take the pan off the heat and beat in the eggs. 3. Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer to 190°C. (Alternatively, you can use a deep saucepan.) Test the temperature with a small amount of dough. 4. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag with a star-shaped nozzle and pipe the mixture carefully into the hot oil, snipping each churro off with a pair of scissors. Fry until golden brown, then drain on paper towels. Toss the churros in the cinnamon sugar while still hot. 5. For the chocolate sauce, heat the cream in a small saucepan and then pour over the chopped chocolate, stirring continuously until the sauce is smooth. Stir in the hazelnut paste and serve with the churros. Discover more online at exploringmore.com/video/tapas SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Malaga The birthplace of Pablo Picasso, Malaga has reinvented itself over the years, blending a bustling modern city with a rich ancient history, sunny beaches and fine art scene

ne of Spain’s most southerly cities, Malaga sits at the base of the Montes de Malaga, and, with a smart harbour, is the gateway to the Costa del Sol. Dating back to around 770BC, the city is awash with historical intrigue. A Roman amphitheatre and the Moorish citadels Gilfarbaro and Alcazaba are all worth a visit, and offer panoramic views across the city to the mountains. Malaga is easy to navigate via bus and metro, although most of the key tourist sites are within walking distance. To make the most of the city’s seafront location, you could rent a bike and cycle to the Playa Pedregalejo for a stroll along the beach. Dive into one of the fabulous fish restaurants after stopping off at the iconic Pompidou gallery; home to Spain’s esteemed modern artists. Undoubtedly popular with tourists, the elegant Museo Picasso charts the career of the city’s most famous son. For a more relaxed

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view of modern art, visit the Contemporary Art Museum or wander the pretty paved streets of the Soho district to view some striking street art, with a stop at a characterful local café. For a break away from the busy streets, try the impressive botanical gardens La Concepcion, or close to the port, the Paseo del Parque.

Don’t miss

Fast Facts The striking central bullring Plaza de Toros de La Malagueta was built in 1874 and seats around 14,000 spectators.

•Malaga Cathedral (which the locals fondly call the one-armed lady) never gained its final tower, giving it a slightly off-balance appearance. The 200 steps to the restored rooftops offer wonderful views of the city. Malaga is •Relax in the pretty Turkish baths home to an of the Hammam Al Andalus, with thermal pools surrounded annual film by lanterns. Visit the steam room festival, wholly or enjoy a massage followed by a dedicated to soothing mint tea. promoting •There are several bustling markets Spanish in Malaga, but the most colourful is cinema and the Mercado Central de Atarazanas with a stunning stained-glass up-and-coming entrance and a 14th-century producers. Moorish arch. •The Pier 1 Port of Malaga Dating back neighbourhood is vibrant for around 2,800 nightlife where visitors can stroll the promenade, gaze out to sea or years and enjoy views over the Alcazabar and founded by the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Phoenicians, •Malaga offers some unusual Malaga is one museums including the of the oldest Aeronautical Museum, the Museo European Automovilistico, housing almost 100 restored classic cars, the cities.

Museo del Vidrio y Cristal de Malaga, charting the history of glass and ceramics, and the Museo Interactivo de la Musica where visitors can play the instruments.

Eating & Drinking

Traditional dining is tapas – small hot and cold dishes for sharing. Favourites include succulent lamb, cured hams, tuna, prawns, local cheese and juicy padron peppers. MARISQUERIA JACINTO ££££

This crisp if slightly staid restaurant offers the region’s best fish direct from local markets. Beautiful plates of prawns and langoustines, oysters, clams in garlic and white wine, monkfish and red mullet make for a mouth-watering meal. VEGETARIAN EL CALAFATE ££

Tucked away in a charming backstreet, the menu at this quaint and cosy restaurant includes falafel,

T R AV E L Clockwise from top: A palm tree-lined promenade in the seaside town of Nerja, Malaga; a window display of Empanadas; a flamenco dancer in traditional dress; churros being sprinkled with icing sugar; the spectacular entrance of the Mercado Central de Atarazanas

samosas and a roasted vegetable salads. Don’t miss the lemon tart. MESON IBERICO £££

Insider Tips

Highly recommended for tapas, booking is advised in this local jaunt. Soak up the atmosphere over dishes of calamari, and pork plus mini bocadillos (crispy sandwiches). EL DESCORCHE SORBOS & MORDISCOS £££

This quirky restaurant resembles a classroom, but the tapas is delicious and a little different from the norm. Try the cigarrales, patatas mar y montaña (sea and mountain potatoes) and crispy croquetas.

PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK

RESTAURANTE MONTANA ££££

Beautifully presented fine dining in a 19th-century Mediterranean palace. Tasty seabass, goat and juicy suckling pig dishes are the recommended choices, or try the tasting menu.

SWEET TREATS

DANCING SHOES

GREAT ON THE GO

You can’t visit Malaga and not try churros, the delicious deep-fried long doughnuts dipped in warm chocolate sauce and sprinkled with icing sugar. Look out for fresh ones in local cafés.

Catching a traditional flamenco performance makes for a fantastic night out on the town and the often improvised show at Kelipe Centro de Arte Flamenco is a wonderful experience.

Empanadas are a traditional flaky pastry with sweet or savoury fillings. Watch them being made at high speed and eat them fresh from the oven at Empanadas Viste.

SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Clockwise from top: Gaudi's Sagrada Familia looming over the city; Barceloneta Beach at sunrise; an aerial view of La Rambla; Spanish street food; beautiful wrought iron balconies overlooking the city streets

Barcelona

Proud city of the Catalans, Barcelona offers everything from Mediterranean beaches to Michelin-star dining and that renowned eclectic architecture

pain’s second largest city, Barcelona, could seem daunting to visitors, but besides being largely built in a highly navigable grid pattern, it has a whole heap of public transport options, including trams, funicular railways and cable cars, making it enjoyable to get around. Catalans are so proud of their distinct language, culture and heritage, that it’s hard to miss. Start with a stroll around Europe’s best-preserved Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) and visit the Museu d’Història de Catalunya where a rooftop bar offers views of the harbour. Wander the medieval lanes and stop at the gothic Barcelona Cathedral to see the stunning vaulted ceiling and cloister with its 13 ornate geese. Spend some time in the attraction-packed Montjuïc to find the Palau Nacional, home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, as well as the Magic Fountain which some nights offers spellbinding light shows. Ride the

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funicular to the top of the hill for panoramic city views. A short metro ride takes you to the La Sagrada Familia – Antoni Gaudi’s most famous work – a church for the people. Buy a ticket online to bypass the queues. The carved, colourful interior resembles a fairy tale structure. Take a quick detour north to see the stunning Art Nouveau Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau before making the short walk down tree-lined streets to the Passeig de Gracia. Here you’ll find the iconic Gaudi house Casa Batlló and also Casa Mila with its fascinating rooftop walk, as well as other Modernista architecture.

Don’t miss

Take a tour of the flamboyant Palau de la Música Catalana. Its spectacular interiors helped it become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The first home designed by Gaudi – Casa Vincens – opened to the public in 2017. One of the earliest examples of Art Nouveau, it blends beautiful tiled exteriors with Arabian and Oriental influences inside. Ride the lift to the top of the Mirador de Colom to the viewing gallery (60m up) for 360-degree views of the Gothic Quarter, Parc de Montjuïc and the harbour. The reasonably priced Museu d’Historia de Barcelona details the ancient and medieval history of Barcelona, particularly Roman artefacts and architectural remains.

Fast Facts More than 30 million tourists visit Barcelona annually, prompting officials to pass laws curbing the numbers. Founded as a Roman city, Barcelona is a leading international economic, cultural and trade hub. Barcelona fields one of the world’s most renowned football teams at Camp Nou, the largest football stadium in Europe, seating 100,000 fans.

Trading since 1836, the huge and famous Mercat de la Boqueria is an assault on the senses and a great place to sample a range of international edible treats.

Eating & Drinking

Although tapas is commonplace, Catalan cuisine has its own distinct style and cosmopolitan Barcelona offers some of Europe’s finest dining. LAB RESTAURANT ££££

This restaurant, as its name implies, likes to experiment with food and produces a tasting menu with a twist. Exquisite looking dishes made from local ingredients are served with a flourish. AGUT ££

Popular with locals in the Barri Gotic, this restaurant serves traditional Catalonian dishes overlooked by paintings from

T R AV E L

classical, local artists. Try the bouillabaisse (fish stew) and pig trotters stuffed with pork sausages.

Insider Tips

CAN ROS £££

A long-established rustic restaurant specialising in seafood and rice dishes. Try the black rice with cuttlefish and artichokes and the traditional cod fish. TAPAS 24 £££

Arrive early or prepare to wait as there’s no booking at this popular tapas restaurant, offering a gastronomic twist on traditional favourites. Highly recommended are the toasted ham, cheese and truffle sandwiches and the boquerones al limón (lemonmarinated anchovies). RESTAURANTE LASARTE ££££

Book ahead as diners flock to this place, the first local restaurant to achieve three Michelin stars.

STREET-SIDE BITES

EVENING AMBLE

TO THE BEACH

The hip Gracia neighbourhood is distinct from other parts of the city. By day, sample varied street food and tasty tapas. At night, find cool and classy bars playing live jazz.

Las Ramblas is the most popular street in the city, with shops, restaurants and cafes. You'll find locals and residents alike out enjoying the treelined strip way into the golden evenings.

Although most visitors are lured to Barcelona for its plethora of attractions, the beach, Playa de La Barceloneta, is a great spot that comes to life in the evenings with buzzing beach bars.

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Viking BOOK CLUB If you’re looking for reading recommendations for the year ahead, look no further. Here we select a few of our favourite novels…

JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club

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BOOK CLUB

THE BLUE PERIOD BY LUKE JEROD KUMMER

Ballantine Books, £12.18

Little A, £8.99

An evocative tale whisking readers away to the French Riviera on the cusp of springtime. The story begins in the 1930s – the young Ondine is helping out with her family café when a curious character disturbs the norm. The mysterious customer is one Pablo Picasso, who at this point in his life is at a crossroads similar to the recently broken-hearted Ondine. The tale flashes forward and the reader is transported to modern day New York. Celine, a makeup artist, learns of her grandmother Ondine’s close connection with the artist and, spurred on by her discovery, seeks to unravel the truth about her fascinating family connection. RIVER GOD, BY WILBUR SMITH Macmillan, £9.99

The first book in a series of Egyptian epics by Wilbur Smith, this story tells of the fate of the ancient Egyptian Kingdom through the perspective of a bright slave named Taita. An expert in art, poetry and medicine, Taita is a precious possession of Lord Intef, but when Intef’s daughter is married off to the Pharaoh, Taita’s fate is sealed and he becomes a dedicated slave to the newlyweds. Taita consequently finds himself tangled in a web of deception amidst a tumultuous backdrop of a divided ancient Egypt. With twists at every turn, this is a romp packed with death and intrigue in the mysterious Valley of the Kings.

A fascinating depiction of Pablo Picasso’s uprooting from the gritty streets of turn-of-the-century Barcelona to bohemian Paris, where the young artist navigates a relationship with the mysterious muse, Germaine Gargallo. The comingof-age tale follows the determined artist and his poet accomplice, Carles Casagemas, running riot in the streets of Montmartre, experiencing all the excitement of this artistic quarter of the capital at a time of heightened debauchery. The artists’ passion for Gargallo intensifies and exposes a rift in their relationship, but amid the despair, Picasso discovers a colour palette to inspire a wave of artistic creativity. THE DISCOVERY OF SLOWNESS BY STEN NADOLNY Viking Penguin, £9.99

Sten Nadolny’s masterpiece recounts the life of Sir John Franklin, a British Royal Navy officer and explorer of the Arctic. Franklin famously made three attempts to find the Northwest Passage – a sea route to the Pacific Ocean though the Arctic Ocean. His final voyage in 1845 ended in notorious tragedy for him and his men, becoming the worst disaster in the history of British polar exploration. But the work of Franklin paved the way for the discovery of the Northwest Passage and Nadolny’s thorough historical research is an labour of love and testament to this fascinating man.

THE NORTH WATER BY IAN MCGUIRE Simon and Schuster, £8.99

A riveting murder mystery set onboard a whaling ship bound for the Arctic in the mid-19th Century, at a time when the whaling industry was on its last legs. Having left the British Army, Patrick Sumner joins the ship as its surgeon as the crew heads for the Arctic Circle on a doomed voyage. In the midst of the journey, a cabin boy is discovered dead. Patrick finds himself faced with more than he signed up for on the expedition, battling human relationships tested in close proximities and the inevitable harshness of mother nature. THE VISITORS BY SALLY BEAUMAN Little, Brown and Company, £7.99

Dive into Sally Beauman’s fascinating fiction for a taste of the trail for Tutankhamun. Set in Egypt in the 1920s, this novel sifts through Carter’s long years of toil in the Valley of the Kings, reimagining the story of Carter and Carnarvon’s hunt for the elusive tomb. The adventure is cleverly retold through the eyes of an eleven-year-old English girl, Lucy, who has been sent to Egypt to recover from typhoid, a fever to which she has lost her mother. Lucy is caught up in the excitement that surrounds the search, making friends with the daughter of an American archaeologist. Years later, the book switches to London in the present day and we catch up with a Lucy haunted by the ghosts of her past. SPR ING 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

COOKING FOR PICASSO BY CAMILLE AUBRAY

Treasure hunt

Journalist Rachael Funnell joins Viking on a whirlwind tour to uncover Egyptian artefacts and artworks

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SPR ING 2020

C U LT U R E

The rooms revealed a spellbinding collection of furniture, ornaments and jewellery, each one more opulent than the last

s an aspiring Egyptologist, you can imagine my excitement when last year I was invited to attend the Viking’s pre-Nile Cruise experience. Having been waiting on tenterhooks for the opening of the Saatchi’s Tutankhamun exhibition, it was a real thrill to have such an extensive reintroduction to the short but impactful life of the Boy King and the bizarre events that unfolded when two Englishmen went in search of his remains. Starting at the British Museum, I felt a pang of shame as it emerged what a rich and insightful collection of ancient Egyptian treasures are housed here, considering I couldn’t recall when I’d last visited despite living just 30 minutes away. Led by our knowledgeable guide, we learnt about the complex process of ancient Egyptian burial among the very rich, who would be laid to rest with their prized treasures to assist them on their journey through to the afterlife. The number of each item was listed in a chart carved onto the interior walls of the tomb, like man’s earliest version of an excel spreadsheet. Next, we moved on to the Saatchi Gallery to see the groundbreaking Tutankhamun exhibition. Having smashed records in France for the highest footfall of any exhibition, with over 1.3 million visitors over its six month run, my expectations were high and I did

Clockwise, from top left: The British Museum’s Great Court, the largest covered public square in Europe; a mummy cartonnage of an adult man bearing the name Djeho; Rachael outside Highclere Castle, home to the Canarvan family; the exterior of the Saatchi Gallery

not leave disappointed. The rooms revealed a spellbinding collection of furniture, ornaments and jewellery, each one more opulent than the last, climaxing, in my opinion, in one of the upstairs rooms where the Pharaoh’s canopic jars are displayed. Next, we were on our way to Oxford to benefit from the knowledge of the incredible academics at The Griffith Institute. We saw original artworks by Howard Carter, squeeze casts taken from tomb walls (before they realised the paper damaged the walls) and, most excitingly of all, Carter’s personal diary. After a relaxing evening we awoke bright and early the next day

to explore the Ashmolean Museum which has an extensive collection of Egyptian artefacts. Many of them were sent here by the father of archaeology, William Flinders Petrie, after he had a falling out with the British Museum, and were protected during World War II as, for reasons which aren’t entirely clear, Oxford was completely spared from any bombing. Our final stop was a visit to Highclere Castle, recognisable to many as the location of the hit TV show Downton Abbey. To this day the castle is home to the Carnarvon family, descendants of Lord Carnarvon who funded the excavation in search of Tutankhamun. After a tour of the rooms we headed to the wine cellar which has been converted into a devoted Tutankhamun museum. My favourite story from the visit was that, in 1987, the fifth earl’s now-retired butler was asked by his son if they had seen everything in the house during an inventory with Sotheby’s. The butler responded, “yes, except for the Egyptian stuff,” as it was revealed that a stash of ancient Egyptian artefacts had been sitting in a blocked off cupboard for years. If only such treasures were hiding in my cupboards! For more about Privileged Access tours around the world visit vikingcruises.co.uk.

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Seal of approval

For travel writer John Wilmott, a visit to Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh and the discovery of a long-forgotten stamp sparks memories of his childhood

learing out one of several junk-stuffed cupboards a few months ago, I came across something I had not set eyes on for years. It is a square envelope with a strange printed seal on the front and a hieroglyphics puzzle on the back. Inside is a smaller envelope on which there is a Royal Mail stamp depicting the famous boy king Tutankhamun. The postmark says ‘First Day Of Issue’ with the date of April 26, 1972. The day of my 11th birthday. I had long forgotten that this had been a gift. The stamp’s value is three pence – this was a year after decimalisation. Contained within the small envelope was a card. It turns out this little package was a rather sophisticated (for the time) promotional vehicle for Wiggins Teape, a manufacturer of speciality writing paper. The blurb draws a parallel between the papyrus used by ancient Egyptians and the company’s fine papers – the document is printed on timeless Conqueror Vellum. I don’t know if my rediscovery of this little prize was an omen, but just a few days later I received an email stating that Viking was to be the Presenting Sponsor for a major new exhibition, Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh, at the Saatchi Gallery in London. When this exhibition finishes touring through several countries, we will be on the cusp of the 100th anniversary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings in 1922 by archaeologist Howard Carter. My 1972 first-day cover was produced to mark the 50th anniversary of the discovery and was part of the enormous hype surrounding a major Tutankhamun exhibition in the UK that year. 72

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C U LT U R E

My 1972 stamp was produced to mark the 50th anniversary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb by archaeologist Howard Carter

PHOTOS: THE SAATCHI GALLERY

After its opening by the Queen, more than 1.6 million people visited the British Museum to see the remarkably preserved artefacts from the tomb, with many queuing for hours – this was decades before online booking! Years later, the well-known cartoonist Michael Heath recalled to the Telegraph: “The whole country had gone Tutankhamun mad: there were Tutankhamun stamps, Tutankhamun pencilsharpeners, Tutankhamun vacuum flasks, Tutankhamun cocktails…” At the Saatchi Gallery, the well-spaced and carefully-lit exhibits showcase the incredible richness of the pharaoh’s possessions. With more than 150 items on show, visitors will

Clockwise, from top left: John’s original 1972 stamp; Gilded wooden compound bow with glass and calcite inlay; Tutankhamun’s Wishing Cup in the form of an open lotus; Wooden statue of the King in the white crown Opposite page: Wooden guardian statue of the Ka of the King wearing the Nemes headcloth

sense the wonder that prompted Carter to exclaim “wonderful things!” when he first peered through a hole into the tomb. Undisturbed for more than 3,000 years, the collection of statues, furniture, jewellery and weaponry, which accompanied the 18-year-old into the afterlife, is in as-new condition. After studying it, I think I’ve worked out that the image on my stamp is a close-up of the ‘gilded wooden figure of Tutankhamun on

a skiff, throwing a harpoon’, which is on display. What struck me was the incredible craftsmanship of the antiquities – the delicate use of gold and glass, the immaculate etching on wood and leather. The artisans of the time were as skilled as those two millennia later. If I was allowed to take one item home with me, it would be the Wishing Cup, shaped like an open lotus flower and made from travertine – a stunning piece which seems to cast a glow from within. When the exhibition finishes touring, it will be housed in the new Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza, never again to leave Egypt. An good reason, then, to put a Nile cruise with Viking on my travel bucket list so I can once more gaze upon the gleaming golden treasures and agree that they are indeed “wonderful things”. For more information about the exhibition visit tutankhamun-london.com

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T R AV E L

My THAILAND

Viking’s Head of PR Bryony Gammon, who spent three years living in Bangkok, shares her tips for visitors to the city

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SPR ING 2020

evenings, the skyline lights up with the glow of rooftop bars. It is definitely worth getting up early to explore Lumphini Park, where you can join local people for one of the free aerobics classes or a morning jog. Watch out for one of the free outdoor concerts and take a picnic – a magical way to spend an evening. Don't be afraid if you spot one of the giant monitor lizards ambling along the path – they are perfectly friendly. No visit to Bangkok would be complete without going on the Chao Phraya river – take a boat from the pier near Saphan Taksin to one of the five star hotels or book a river tour. It is fascinating to see how local people live along the khlongs (canals). On many of the Viking shore excursions and onboard in The Restaurant, you will have the chance to sample Thai dishes. My favourite discovery was som tam – spicy papaya salad. On the Southeast Asia & Hong Kong itinerary, guests can join the Executive Chef on a tour of a local

market and then participate in a cooking class once back on board. Viking guests can also opt to visit Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site just outside Bangkok. The trip includes a visit to Bang Pa-In Summer Palace, a collection of pavilions in a variety of Thai, Chinese, Italian and Victorian architectural styles set in a very well manicured garden. If you time your visit to coincide with a Thai festival, you will be able to gain a fascinating insight into the local culture. Songkran is Thailand's most famous festival. It marks the beginning of the Thai New Year and people celebrate by splashing water on each other – like a nationwide water fight. My advice is to leave everything at home and put your possessions in a watertight bag – you never know who is hiding just around the corner to throw water all over you! Such sanuk...

Clockwise, from below: Som Tam Tai, a popular and favourite Thai food dish; Vendors selling produce at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market; Bryony makes friends with an elephant

ne of the things I loved most about living in Bangkok was the people. They are some of the friendliest and most hospitable people I have ever met, but what I appreciated most was their sense of sanuk (pronounced ‘sanook’), which, roughly translated, means fun. As a sprawling metropolis, Bangkok can feel like an overwhelming place. However, I would encourage visitors to get off the well-trodden tourist path, hone in on one particular neighbourhood, meet the locals and embrace the frenetic pace. Instead of taking a taxi, take the Skytrain or a tuk tuk, or if you are feeling really brave, ride side-saddle on a motorbike taxi. Learning a few words of Thai is much appreciated by local people, even if it is just Sawadee ka (hello). There are more green spaces in Bangkok than you might think. In Benjakitti Park near my favourite neighbourhood Asoke, you can hire paddle boats or bikes and, in the

Explore the Great Lakes and Canada, on expedition ships designed for discovery The Great Lakes are an undiscovered treasure, boasting stunning national parks, in a region that is rich in culture and history. Here, you can experience a deep connection to nature in a genuinely remote wilderness. Watch for wildlife, from bald eagles to moose, grey wolves, bears and beavers. Reach across cultures with the First Nations’ people. Hike through pristine forests, and glide silently by kayak across Georgian Bay – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Discover Canada’s colonial past and beautiful lakeshores. Visit the majestic Niagara Falls, all accompanied by expert guides. Viking oﬀers a choice of inspiring new journeys around the Great Lakes, as well as voyages to the Arctic and Antarctica. To enable you to best explore the Great Lakes, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings and esteemed scientific partnerships to deliver enriching programmes. The expedition ship perfected, Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis are home to just 378 guests and guild on our legacy of exploration with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are new taking bookings for our 2022 itineraries. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard an expedition ship that oﬀers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

Embark on the ultimate adventure to the Arctic or Antarctica Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent, that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales. Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes to see wildlife in its natural habitat. To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes. The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378 guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard a ship that oďŹ€ers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk