3 minute read
ON THE TRAIL Rachael Funnell joins Viking on a
Treasure hunt
Journalist Rachael Funnell joins Viking on a whirlwind tour to uncover Egyptian artefacts and artworks
As an aspiring Egyptologist, you can imagine my excitement when last year I was invited to attend the Viking’s pre-Nile Cruise experience. Having been waiting on tenterhooks for the opening of the Saatchi’s Tutankhamun exhibition, it was a real thrill to have such an extensive reintroduction to the short but impactful life of the Boy King and the bizarre events that unfolded when two Englishmen went in search of his remains.
Starting at the British Museum, I felt a pang of shame as it emerged what a rich and insightful collection of ancient Egyptian treasures are housed here, considering I couldn’t recall when I’d last visited despite living just 30 minutes away. Led by our knowledgeable guide, we learnt about the complex process of ancient Egyptian burial among the very rich, who would be laid to rest with their prized treasures to assist them on their journey through to the afterlife. e number of each item was listed in a chart carved onto the interior walls of the tomb, like man’s earliest version of an excel spreadsheet.
Next, we moved on to the Saatchi Gallery to see the groundbreaking Tutankhamun exhibition. Having smashed records in France for the highest footfall of any exhibition, with over 1.3 million visitors over its six month run, my expectations were high and I did
Clockwise, from top left: The British Museum’s Great Court, the largest covered public square in Europe; a mummy cartonnage of an adult man bearing the name Djeho; Rachael outside Highclere Castle, home to the Canarvan family; the exterior of the Saatchi Gallery
not leave disappointed. e rooms revealed a spellbinding collection of furniture, ornaments and jewellery, each one more opulent than the last, climaxing, in my opinion, in one of the upstairs rooms where the Pharaoh’s canopic jars are displayed. Next, we were on our way to Oxford to bene t from the knowledge of the incredible academics at e Gri th Institute. We saw original artworks by Howard Carter, squeeze casts taken from tomb walls (before they realised the paper damaged the walls) and, most excitingly of all, Carter’s personal diary.
After a relaxing evening we awoke bright and early the next day to explore the Ashmolean Museum which has an extensive collection of Egyptian artefacts. Many of them were sent here by the father of archaeology, William Flinders Petrie, after he had a falling out with the British Museum, and were protected during World War II as, for reasons which aren’t entirely clear, Oxford was completely spared from any bombing.
Our nal stop was a visit to Highclere Castle, recognisable to many as the location of the hit TV show Downton Abbey. To this day the castle is home to the Carnarvon family, descendants of Lord Carnarvon who funded the excavation in search of Tutankhamun. After a tour of the rooms we headed to the wine cellar which has been converted into a devoted Tutankhamun museum.
My favourite story from the visit was that, in 1987, the fth earl’s now-retired butler was asked by his son if they had seen everything in the house during an inventory with Sotheby’s. e butler responded, “yes, except for the Egyptian stu ,” as it was revealed that a stash of ancient Egyptian artefacts had been sitting in a blocked o cupboard for years. If only such treasures were hiding in my cupboards! to explore the Ashmolean Museum which has an extensive collection of Egyptian artefacts. Many of them were sent here by the father of archaeology, William Flinders Petrie, after he had a falling out
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