RIVER OF GOLD A journey along the Douro

DOURO DRAMATIC

After journeying down the Douro River, travel writer John Wilmott recalls the highlights of his trip with Viking

Is the Douro the most beautiful navigable river in Europe? Many believe so after sailing through this spectacular valley in Portugal. Soon after leaving its berth in Porto, your intimate Viking ship enters a green gorge that twists through enchanting countryside all the way to the Spanish border.

Venerable old wine estates sit proudly above the riverbanks, the surrounding steep hills smothered with the terraced vineyards for

which the Douro is famous. Whitewashed villages vie for attention with verdant forests and even golden beaches.

Probably the most memorable stretches are those through dramatic rocky canyons, in which sharp bends in the river reveal new panoramas.  ese remote landscapes provide a compelling contrast to the historic magni cence of Porto, one of the continent’s most eye-catching cities.  e whole journey is enriched

by a wonderful collection of tales – the secrets of port wine, of devoted pilgrims, a family of bats who protect ancient books, of a mysterious astronaut, and of a curious stork who was too friendly for his own good.

 ere’s such a huge variety to this cruise, so I’ve shared a few highlights to whet your appetite. Most guests choose to begin their journey with a two-night hotel stay in Lisbon, Portugal’s grand capital. Here, the Viking

WHAT SETS VIKING APART ON THE DOURO? • Dedicated Viking team in Lisbon with separate concierge in a first-class central hotel • Your own fleet of luxury coaches that follows your ship to take you on a range of included shore-based adventures • A well-educated and engaging guide on each coach • Free entry to Salamanca’s New Cathedral and the museum at Lamego due to Viking’s sponsorship

team reveal the magic of the city with an included tour of the waterside Belém district, where a quirky 16th-century tower seemingly  oats on the beautiful Tagus estuary.

 e journey to Porto, on Viking’s own  eet of luxurious coaches, is broken with a tour of one of the world’s oldest universities at Coimbra. If the caped uniforms of the students look familiar, it’s because they inspired those of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts school.  e extraordinary Joanina Library also evokes tales of magic and wizardry.

Waiting beside the quay at Porto will be your Viking ship. A compact version of the Viking Longships of the Rhine and Danube, the stateof-the-art ship boasts a spacious sun deck with a pool, appealing Aquavit Terrace over the bow, and a lounge and restaurant with Viking’s trademark Scandinavian style. Many staterooms have a French Balcony or outside veranda.  e view from the quay at Porto will certainly arrest your attention.  e city lies spread out before you; the botanical gardens to the left yield to handsome buildings ascending the hill, the noble cathedral, the graceful Luís I bridge, and the digni ed Serra do Pilar monastery to the right. With free time after an introductory tour, you may wish to board the cable car to the monastery, or take an optional visit to one of the old port houses.

Sailing out from Porto, don’t miss the traditional rabelo, boats which once ferried precious port barrels down the river.  e scenery changes quickly and before long, those unmistakable terraced vineyards will surround you.

Further along the river and the baroque, twin-towered Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies o ers an alluring sight, although the monument’s most powerful statement is the astonishing double staircase that descends to Lamego’s town centre. Walk down the 686 steps and admire the delightful azulejo tilework on each landing. Salamanca, the ‘golden city’ over the border in Spain, has enough architectural richness to  ll a book. You’ll quickly understand why Plaza Mayor is regarded as the most beautiful square in the country, though your focus will also turn to the House of Shells, started in 1493, and the ‘new’ and ‘old’ cathedrals that stand side by side. Another sight that may seem familiar is the façade of the exquisite Mateus Palace which has long adorned the labels of bottles of the well-known rosé. Find time to wander the gardens after examining the antiques inside the palace.

If you’ve been enjoying the local food and drink ashore, you will by now have realised how hard the Viking chefs work to tempt you with delectable Portuguese dishes such as sardines and roast duck. To enhance your journey further, the cruise director assembles a pleasingly varied on board programme, which may include a performance by a folk band, traditional fado singing, or a workshop where you learn how to make those irresistible custard tarts so synonymous with the culture. As for the friendly stork, you’ll just have to ask your Viking tour escort to relay this intriguing story on the visit to the medieval hilltop village of Castelo Rodrigo. A 10-day 2021 Portugal’s River of Gold journey from Lisbon to Porto starts from £2,195pp.  e city lies spread out before you; the botanical gardens to the left yield to handsome buildings ascending the hill

Clockwise from far left: The Church of the Clerecia in the old town of Salamanca; Belém Tower, built as a fortress in the 16th century; Lisbon’s old town streets and an historic tram; Mateus Palace overlooking its scenic gardens; a traditional apartment façade in Lisbon; an aerial view of a Viking ship on the Douro; delicious pastéis de nata, a treat for travellers to Portugal