SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | £5.25PLAN YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY NOW SPICE UP YOUR WINTER-SUN CRUISE WITH A GUIDE TO THE BEST PORTS WINYOUR CHOICE OFANYVOYAGESVIRGINCRUISE FranceMartinJamesforfoodieswith WHY SOUTH GEORGIA IS WORTH THE EXTRA TIME ON AN ANTARCTIC ADVENTURE RUNNINGS Coo l Caribb ean COLOUR + NADIYA HUSSAIN ■ NORWEGIAN FJORDS ■ MAIN RIVER AFTERNOON TEAS ■ CORSICA ■ STORNOWAY ■ VENICE 9 7 7 1 7 5 8 2 3 2 0 4 3 0 6 cruise-international.com
7-Night Aegean Allure 23 Apr*; 21 May; 25 Jun; 23 Jul; 17 Sep; 5 Nov 2023 SEABOURN ENCORE Piraeus (Athens) to Istanbul Fly/Cruise from £4,199pp Visits: Spetses; Agios Nikolaos (Crete); Kusadasi (Ephesus); Mykonos, Skopelos; Skiathos; Bozcaada (Turkey). Complimentary Evening at Ephesus *Lead fare based on 23 Apr 2023 7-Night Greek & Turkish Treasures 30 Apr*; 28 May; 2, 30 Jul; 24 Sep; 12 Nov 2023 SEABOURN ENCORE Istanbul to Piraeus (Athens) Fly/Cruise from £4,199pp Visits: Myrina (Limnos); Cesme (Turkey); Bodrum; Symi; Santorini; Ermoupolis (Syros) *Lead fare based on 30 Apr 2023 7-Night Greece & Dalmatian Delights 9 Jul*; 20 Aug; 22 Oct 2023 SEABOURN ENCORE Piraeus (Athens) to Venice Fly/Cruise from £3,499pp Visits: Monemvasia (Greece); Katakolon (Olympia); Nydri (Lefkada); Brindisi (Lecce); Dubrovnik (Croatia); Zadar *Lead fare based on 9 Jul 2023 10-Night Aegean Gems & Ephesus 4* Jun; 1 Oct 2023 SEABOURN ENCORE Roundtrip Piraeus (Athens) Fly/Cruise from £5,699pp Visits: Skiathos; Kavala (Neapolis); Istanbul (overnight); Izmir; Kusadasi (Ephesus); Mykonos; Milos Overnight stay in Istanbul Complimentary Evening at Ephesus *Lead fare based on 4 Jun 2023 11-Night Glories of Ancient Greece 14 Jun 2023 | SEABOURN ENCORE Roundtrip Piraeus (Athens) Fly/Cruise from £5,699pp Visits: Poros; Syracusa (Sicily); Lipari; Valletta (Malta); Chania (Crete); Bodrum (Turkey); Marmaris; Naxos Terms & Conditions: *Featured prices are per guest based on double occupancy and promo codes NB, JE & JB. Prices are inclusive of Cruise Fare, Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses in Pounds Sterling. All savings amounts are included in the prices shown. ^Complimentary Veranda Suite Upgrades are subject to availability at time of booking on these voyages. Upgrade will be reflected in fare paid for selected Suite category. Reduced Deposit offer is valid on select sailings that are outside of standard penalty periods. Reduced Deposit amounts vary by class of ship: Ocean Fleet Seabourn Odyssey, Seabourn Sojourn, Seabourn Quest, Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation reduced deposit of £250 per guest; Expedition Fleet Seabourn Venture and Seabourn Pursuit reduced deposit of £500 per guest. Reduced Deposit offer is based on promo DD. All offers are capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Other restrictions may apply. Seabourn reserves the right to correct errors. Ships' registry: Bahamas. ©2022 Seabourn
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to dream of a Seabourn Aegean adventure THE SEABOURN ALL INCLUSIVE DIFFERENCE Intimate ships with a private club atmosphere Intuitive, personalised service provided by staff passionate about exceeding guests expectations All ocean-front suites, luxuriously appointed Complimentary premium spirits and fine wines available on board at all times Tipping is neither required, nor expected Welcome Champagne and complimentary in-suite bar stocked with guests’ preferences World-class dining, further enhanced through a culinary partnership with Chef Thomas Keller All dining venues are complimentary, guests may dine where, when and with whom they wish MONEMVASIA ALL-INCLUSIVE | ULTRA-LUXURY | GREECE & TURKEY THESailEVENTAWAY Book by 30 September 2022 Complimentary Suite Upgrades Low £250pp deposit Fly/cruise from £3,499pp CONTACT YOUR SEABOURN TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR SEABOURN RESERVATIONS ON 0344 338 8615 WWW.SEABOURN.COM
Explore great cities such as Athens, Istanbul and Venice, stroll timeless island villages hugging tiny harbours on Mykonos, Spetses and the shining white town of Thira cresting the cliffs of Santorini. Call into the less visited Turkish ports of Bozcaada or Cesme. Discover fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Delphi and Olympia on the Peloponnese and walk in the steps of the ancients at a special evening at Ephesus. Go shopping in Greek or Turkish markets and learn about local produce with Seabourn’s executive chef as your guide. Enjoy a complimentary Marina Day with watersports in Spetses or Nydri.
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COMIt’sshaping
up to be a great end to the year for those of us who love cruise travel. After a long, hot summer that saw most cruise lines return to full strength with their entire fleets back in the water, we’re now looking forward to the first full season for winter-sun sailings in the Caribbean and expedition cruises in Antarctica. We take a look at both of these cruising mainstays in our guide to the most exciting ports to explore in the Caribbean (page 38) and our review of a voyage to the remote Antarctic island of South Georgia, where penguins far outnumber people (page 50). Yet you don’t have to fly long-haul to enjoy a cruise holiday. There’s still time to see the majesty of the Norwegian fjords (page 30), whether on an autumnal adventure along the coast or a voyage this winter to see the Northern Lights. Plus we look at some of Europe’s most underrated destinations, with a river cruise along the Main (page 68), a small-ship sailing in Napoleon’s wake to the Mediterranean isles of Corsica and Elba (page 78) and a preview of a food and wine-focused sailing in Bordeaux featuring top TV chef James Martin (page 98). If you have a destination you’re keen to read more about or simply want to have your say in shaping the future of Cruise International, we would love to hear from you. Take part in our survey (cruise-international.com/reader-survey) and you could not only help steer the course of the UK’s bestselling cruise magazine, but also be in with a chance of winning £150 to spend on your favourite wellness boost.
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Nadiya shares her everyday bakes 96 Ask the Experts Get the latest advice on Christmas markets, Northern Lights and more 98 Celebrity Travels TV chef James Martin tees up his food and wine cruise in Bordeaux AURORA
and
FEATURES 22 New Ships
A Disney debut, a second ship for Swan Hellenic and AmaLucia latest 30 Scandinavia Get active in the Norwegian fjords with hiking, biking and kayaking 38 Caribbean Put these colourful ports of call on your Caribbean wish list this winter 50 South Georgia
Add more excitement to Antarctic cruises with this penguin paradise 62 Stornoway in a Day Make the most of your time in the Outer Hebrides’ largest town 66 Art Cruises See smouldering volcanoes and lush scenery on these paradise islands 68 Main River Explore this tributary of the Rhine on a budget-friendly river voyage 76 City Guide Forget the crowds and the critics, Venice remains a must-see city 78 Corsica & Elba Delve deeper into the history of Napoleon on a small-ship sailing 86 Afternoon Tea White-gloved waiters or West End vibes in these afternoon teas at sea
the publishers. The
Take the stress out of travel with our top tips for a relaxing escape 60 Competition Win your choice of any seven-night cruise for two with Virgin Voyages 92 Recipes
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REGULARS 6 Hot Spot Boston is in its prime with more cruise lines visiting for Fall foliage 8 On Our Radar Seafaring city Gdansk in Poland is worth a stop on Baltic Sea sailings 11 Cruise News New ships, 2024 collections and Take That, the musical, at sea 17 Style All your must-pack essentials for a cruise holiday this autumn 19 Health & Wellbeing
reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission
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by William
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travel advice, always
HOT SPOT
>>
PAVONEPHOTO/SEANIMAGES/ISTOCKGETTYPICTURE:
Boston, US Famous for its riverside parks, seafood and beautiful architecture, Boston has a fabulously diverse appeal, and is at its most colourful come Fall. You don’t have to be a sports fan to enjoy a tour of the Red Sox’s Fenway Park, America’s oldest Major League baseball stadium, and several Boston restaurants come with a side order of history, too. If you want delicious comfort food, head to Union Oyster House, which opened in 1826. Don’t miss the chance to chuck tea bales into the harbour at the brilliant Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum, which has one of only two surviving tea chests retrieved from Boston’s waters.
The city’s prettiest neighbourhood is Beacon Hill, which borders Boston Common and its neighbouring Boston Public Garden (pictured), a park filled with ridiculously inquisitive squirrels. Afterwards, toast your thirst at nearby Cheers Boston – the pub that inspired the sitcom – where you can pose alongside character cut-outs and check out memorabilia. Be warned – the theme song, played on repeat, is annoyingly catchy, and you’ll be singing about the bar where everyone knows your name for weeks to come.
WORDS: TAMARA HINSON
Turn to page 38 for your guide to the best Caribbean ports of call
ON OUR RADAR
MAREENSTOCK/MIKEADOBEPICTURE:
Gdansk has a lot of fantastic museums, including the Museum of Amber, where you can marvel at thousands of chunks of honey-hued resin, many of which have prehistoric insects trapped inside, and the Museum of the Second World War, which provides a brutally honest insight into life in Poland during the conflict. The city is also a brilliant base for forays along the Baltic coastline.
One of Poland’s oldest cities, Gdansk is rich with seafaring history – the medieval buildings lining the stretch of the Motlawa river that streaks through its centre are a welcome reminder of its heritage – and a popular port of call on Baltic itineraries. Keep an eye out for the medieval crane; this riverside wooden structure, built in the 1300s and wedged between the ancient twin towers of a city gate, was once used to load cargo onto passing ships.
>> Turn to page 30 for
Nearby Sopot, with its pastel-hued villas, chic seafood restaurants and historic pier (built in 1827, it’s Europe’s longest wooden pier), is just a 12-minute train journey away.
Gdansk, Poland
WORDS: TAMARA HINSON highlights from Scandinavia
Stockholm to Bergen 15 days, 11 guided tours Departing April to September 2023 From £4,790pp In Search of the Northern Lights London to Bergen 13 days, 6 guided tours Departing
*Connection speed may vary. Prices are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on Iceland’s Natural Beauty 19 June 2023, Scenic Scandinavia 12 June 2023, Viking Homelands 17 April 2023, In Search of the Northern Lights 19 January 2023 and Into the Midnight Sun 22 July 2023 departure dates. All departures are subject to availability. Single supplements 100%. Our cruises are only available to guests who will have been fully vaccinated at least 14 days prior to departure. Some countries may require a negative COVID-19 test to enter. You must have travel insurance that includes COVID-19 cover. For the latest updates on our Health & Safety programme please visit Viking.com. The UK Government list of countries where travel is permitted to can change on a regular basis and at short notice, Viking cannot be held responsible if at any point before or during travel the advice changes which then requires guests to quarantine on their return. The Department of Transport and The Foreign and Commonwealth Of ce have also issued advice which applies to cruises. If UK Government regulations or guidance prohibit or further restrict travel either within the UK or abroad, then we may similarly have to cancel planned cruises, or amend itineraries or other conditions for travel at short or no notice. Please refer to paragraph H.1 [and B2] in our Booking Terms and Conditions on our website viking.com for further information as to our cancellation policies in these circumstances.
Tour scenic ords, towns & cities Viking’s 2023 Scandinavian ocean cruises from £2,840pp 2023 OCEANSCANDINAVIANCRUISESIceland’sNaturalBeauty Reykjavík
January to March 2023 From £3,990pp Into the Midnight Sun Bergen to London 15 days, 9 guided tours Departing June to August 2023 From £5,290pp So much included: Return scheduled flights from London and selected regional airports at no extra cost Stateroom with a private veranda An included excursion in almost every port All onboard meals including regional specialities Alternative restaurant dining at no extra cost Wine, beer & soft drinks with onboard lunch and dinner Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board Free 24-hour room service Free Wi-Fi onboard* Access to top-rated spa & fitness centre All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers Onboard gratuities VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE
Stockholm to Copenhagen 11 days, 9 guided tours Departing June 2023 From Viking£4,290ppHomelands
Sail the Norwegian ord’s, trace ancient Viking trade routes and visit glittering cultural capitals with a Viking Scandinavian ocean journey. From the comfort of a stunning, small ship that is home to just 930 guests, take in the view from your veranda stateroom. Relax in spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous food in a choice of restaurants. Explore the culture and history of the places you visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world. roundtrip 8 Days, 6 guided tours Departing June to August 2023 From Scenic£2,840ppScandinavia
Call now on 020 8780 8701 or book online at viking.com
HAPAG-LLOYD'S LAKES
The German cruise line is offering bilingual cruises on Hanseatic Inspiration with four sailings in the Great Lakes, visiting Mackinac Island, Lake Ontario, Toronto and Quebec. They will be followed by cruises taking in the Panama Canal, Chilean fjords, Antarctica and the Amazon, repositioning to the Arctic in May 2024 for circumnavigations of Spitsbergen.
The Great Lakes and St Lawrence River are among new destinations featured by expedition line Hapag-Lloyd Cruises in its 2023-24 season.
ECLIPSE LOOKS TO THE EAST
Cruise News
The ship has the highest ice class rating for polar vessels, plus shore power and retractable glass balconies on the pool deck (hl-cruises.com).
Havila Voyages, the new Norwegian-owned cruise line, has unveiled a Northern Lights Promise offering a free cruise to guests who do not see the aurora borealis during the peak viewing season. Passengers on its 12-day round-trip from Bergen to Kirkenes who don’t see the lights will be eligible for a six or seven-night cruise the following winter, on voyages departing between October 1 and March 31. Those booking the journey will also receive onboard credit worth around £420 per cabin, to redeem on drinks or excursions (havilavoyages.com).
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11CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | SHIPS / EVENTS / DESTINATIONS
NORTHERNGUARANTEELIGHTS
Scenic is heading to Japan next year with discovery yacht Scenic Eclipse on an extended programme that includes three new sailings and a chance to experience a Shinto ceremony. Among the new ports of call are Hachinohe, Shimizu (above), Muroran and Sakaiminato in Japan, plus Alaskan archipelago the Aleutian Islands. Guests can attend a Shinto ceremony, featuring prayers and dancing to cleanse the spirit, and a sake Kagami biraki ceremony at a Tokyo shrine that is said to confer good luck on all those who join the proceedings. There is also a chance to try sushi and sake on board, visit an Asian food market and go kayaking and hiking in the volcanic landscapes of the Pacific Ring of Fire (scenic.co.uk).
The range features 160 cruises, 21 more than the 2023-24 season. They visit every region of the world, including 18 new ports of call and 130 overnight stays. Journeys range from seven nights to an epic 150-night world cruise setting sail in 2025 (rssc.com).
A study has revealed the cruise-booking hotspots in the UK, with south coast locations taking the top three places. According to an analysis of 2022 bookings by cruise.co.uk, the residents of Fareham (below) in Hampshire booked more cruise holidays per head this year than any other town or city.
VIKING’S NEW NILE SHIP
Deputy managing director Tony Andrews said: “Perhaps it’s no surprise to see those three locations making up our most popular booking hotspots, with so much choice on their doorstep.”
Viking chairman Torstein Hagen said: “Egypt has always drawn curious explorers for its rich history and antiquities. Viking Osiris allows us to welcome even more to this incredible destination.”
Ultra-luxury line Regent Seven Seas
REGENT’S 2024-25 RANGE
Viking has unveiled new ship Viking Osiris and announced that a further three Nile vessels will follow by 2025. George Herbert (above), the eighth earl of Carnarvon – who resides at Highclere Castle, the real-life Downton Abbey – became the company’s first godfather at a ceremony in Luxor, Egypt. His great-grandfather joined the excavation that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, 100 years ago this November.
Dorset town Christchurch came second, followed by Southampton – home to the UK’s busiest cruise port – then Barnsley and Chorley in Lancashire.
UK’SREVEALEDHOTSPOTSCRUISE
The company will add a third Nile ship, Viking Aton, next year, followed by Viking Hathor and Sobek in 2024 and 2025 (vikingcruises.co.uk).
CRUISE NEWS 12 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Cruises has added new ports of call, longer Alaska sailings and a Canada and New England maiden season for Seven Seas Grandeur in its new 2024-25 Voyage Collection.
MSC STAYS AT SOUTHAMPTON
P&O Cruises has added Greatest Days – The Official Take That Musical to the entertainment line-up on Barbados-based ship Arvia, which is set to launch in December. The stage show is an adaptation of West End musical The Band, featuring Take That songs with a story by writer TimTheFirth.band (above) said in a statement: “Almost 10 years ago, we had the idea of writing a musical with our songs. It was a big wish of ours to make a show with Take That’s music, but without us – not the story of our lives. “Our wishes came true and five years ago we debuted The Band to the world. Now we couldn’t be prouder to bring the story to P&O Cruises under its new name – Greatest Days.”
River line Viva Cruises has introduced seven new Christmas markets sailings taking in some of Europe’s most festive spots, with prices from £550 per person – including mulled wine on board. The cruises operate on four ships including the line’s first new-build, Viva One (right), which launched in April and will be sailing four-night itineraries: Moselle Advent Magic and the Rhine Christmas Cruise. Those sailing on the Rhone in France on board Viva Voyage will start and end in Lyon, where the city’s Festival of Lights takes place from December 8-11 (viva-cruises.com).
TAKE THAT AT SEA
MSC Cruises will homeport a ship in the UK year-round for the first time as demand grows for no-fly cruises. MSC Virtuosa (above) will remain in Southampton throughout this winter and next summer, with a new Northern Pearls itinerary visiting Hamburg, Zeebrugge (for Bruges), Rotterdam and Le Havre. UK managing director Antonio Paradiso said: “The continued deployment of one of our newest and most innovative ships out of the UK is further proof of the continued importance of the UK market, which began with our first full ex-UK season back in 2018. Since then, we have gone from strength to strength and we are committed to offering the best possible experience for our guests from the UK and Ireland.” (msccruises.co.uk)
GAZZARD;IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/JULIANGETTYHILLIER;ADAMPICTURES:
VIVA ADDS CHRISTMAS MARKETS
The line has already announced a series of performances by Gary Barlow on Iona, taking place this autumn (pocruises.com).
SARFATTICRUISES/IVANMSCTHEBAUD;LOICLEWIS;JOSH
TAKE THAT POSTER 13CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM
It includes the debut of second Nova-class ship Silver Ray, which uses LNG-powered dual-fuel engines and battery technology to reduce emissions. It launches in May 2024.
The line has also opened sales on the inaugural season of polar expedition ship Silver Endeavour (silversea.com).
AmaWaterways has christened luxury river cruise ship AmaLucia – the 26th in its fleet – at a ceremony in Rudesheim, Germany. Its teenage godparents, children of AmaWaterways business partner Colin Farmer, joined the company’s co-founders, Rudi Schreiner and Kristin Karst, at the ceremony, which included live music and an appearance from the town’s ‘wine princesses’. The ship will be sailing on the Rhine and, in 2023, on the Dutch and Belgian waterways (amawaterways.co.uk).
Silversea will be bringing guests to a record 900 destinations around the world in 2024-25 with its recently released Voyages Collection.
AMALUCIA’S DEBUT EVENT
SILVERSEA HITS GREAT HEIGHTS
The range features 25 maiden ports of call, with 341 new sailings including in South Africa and Madagascar (left), an extended season in the Med, and voyages to the South Pacific, Norwegian fjords, Iceland and Alaska.
WINTER SUN FOR WINDSTAR
Small-ship line Windstar Cruises has added winter-sun sailings in the Red Sea and Persian Gulf for the first time, with new itineraries in Saudia Arabia, Jordan, Egypt, Oman, the United Arab Emirates, Bahrain and Qatar. Cruises will start in November 2023 for the 2023-24 season on Star Legend (above), the all-suite ship that holds 312 guests. Christopher Prelog, the line’s president, said: “With Unesco sights, beautiful beaches and wildlife, top golf courses, amazing snorkelling and diving and, of course, great shopping, Windstar is excited to introduce our guests to the Red Sea and Persian Gulf.” (windstarcruises.com).
> Turn to page 28 for a review of AmaLucia |
CRUISE NEWS 14
Perry said: “It was so much fun to sprinkle some fairy godmother dust on Norwegian Prima and send her on her way to sail the high seas. I always appreciate a family vacation and a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so I was happy to wish all the vacationing guests a happy bon voyage!”
P&O Cruises’ new ship Arvia will feature exclusive dishes designed by the line’s ‘local food heroes’ Shivi Ramoutar and José Pizarro. Ramoutar has created Caribbean-inspired dishes at The Beach House, including jerk chicken with rice and peas, fried plantain and a sweet Jamaican dumpling called ‘festival’. Pizarro has also brought his Spanish influence to bear on a tapas menu at The Glass House and Cellar Door, featuring tiger prawns, lamb cutlets and tuna tartare, paired with wines selected by TV presenter Olly Smith. The Barbados-based ship will also feature a fish and plant-based restaurant and an American-style diner (pocruises.co.uk).
It was the first time a major ship has been christened in Reykjavik, Iceland, with a ceremony in front of 2,500 guests.
DESTINATION DINING
LINE/CRUISENORWEGIANFORIMAGESGETTYPICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/FIZKESCALLENDER;ALUNFEWINGS;TRISTAN
American pop singer Katy Perry has officially christened new NCL ship Norwegian Prima, followed by a performance of hits including Firework, Teenage Dream and California Gurls
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM Win! Have your say and win up to £150 cruiseinternational.com/reader-survey
KATY PERRY ON PRIMA
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | CRUISE NEWS 15
It is the first of six Prima-class ships set to launch in the coming years, featuring revamped luxury area The Haven, the fastest slides at sea and a three-level racetrack (ncl.com).
Cruise International is inviting you to take part in a survey, with the chance to win a top prize worth £150 or one of four runners-up prizes worth £50 to spend on your favourite wellbeing treats. We want you to have your say on what you love most about cruise holidays and where’s next on your wish list. All you have to do is answer a few simple questions at cruise-international.com/reader-survey before the closing date of October 31. The questionnaire takes less than 10 minutes and as a thank you for your time, those who take part will go into a prize draw to win Totally Well vouchers worth up to £150, which you can spend on anything from spa holidays or Bloom & Wild flowers to Hello Fresh meal boxes and luxury spa goodies from Espa, Cowshed and more – the choice is yoursARVIA’S(cruise-international.com/reader-survey).
MagazineCruiseBi-Monthly FREE worth £29.70 per year when you join the Cruise Club BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST HIGH STREET CRUISE AGENCY BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST CRUISEONLINEAGENCY www.bolsovercruiseclub.com/into-the-blue British Isles Land of the Midnight Sun Canary Islands Spain & France Mediterranean Adventurer Ireland & Scotland Regal Princess (G321N) 1 Jun 2023 | 12 Nights Sky Princess (Y325) 19 Aug 2023 | 14 Nights Sky Princess(Y330) 29 Oct 2023 | 12 Nights Sky Princess (Y327) 16 Sep 2023 | 7 Nights Sky Princess (Y323) 29 Jul 2023 | 14 Nights Regal Princess (G331N) 29 Sep 2023 | 10 Nights Southampton, St. Peter Port (Guernsey), Cobh (Cork), Dun Laoghaire (Dublin), Liverpool, Belfast, Greenock (Glasgow), Kirkwall (Orkney Islands), South Queensferry (Edinburgh), Le Havre (Paris/ Normandy), Southampton,SouthamptonBergen,Flaam, Olden, Trondheim, Honningsvag (North Cape), Tromso, Gravdal (Lofoten Islands), Skjolden/Sognefjord, Southampton Southampton, Vigo (for Santiago de Compostela), Funchal (Madeira), Tenerife, Las Palmas (Gran Canaria), Arrecife (Lanzarote), Lisbon, Southampton Southampton, St. Peter Port (Guernsey), La Rochelle, Bilbao, La Coruna (for Santiago de Compostela), Southampton Southampton, Cadiz (Seville), Barcelona, Marseille (Provence), Livorno
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QUOTE: BCC REF 8122. ISSUED 23.08.22. Please see our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. This advert contains an outline description of the product featured, which is solely organised by Princess Cruises. It should be read in conjunction with Princess Cruises current brochure which contains full information about the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are subject to availability based upon 2 adults sharing the lowest available grade within the stateroom type specified. Prices and availability are correct at time of publishing, and may go up or down. First and second guest fares apply to minimum lead in categories on a space-available basis at time of booking. Fares for other categories may vary. Fares are per person, based on double occupancy and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. Free Deluxe Balcony to Mini Suite Upgrade offer is based on buying the lowest category of Mini Suite for the price of an equivalent Deluxe Balcony category stateroom. £50pp low deposit applies to all passengers. Offer is available from 1st September 2022 - 31st October 2022. Further terms conditions apply, please call for details. E&OE (Florence/Pisa), (Rome), (Sardinia),
Gibraltar, Southampton Southampton, Portland, St. Peter Port (Guernsey), Cobh (Cork), Belfast, Greenock (Glasgow), Liverpool, Holyhead, Southampton Cruise Club fares from PP £1,669 Cruise Club fares from PP £1,962 Cruise Club fares from PP £1,374 Cruise Club fares from PP £883 Cruise Club fares from PP £2,255 Cruise Club fares from PP £1,570 The Cruise Centre 6 Lindrick Way, Barlborough, Chesterfi eld S43 4XE Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Deluxe Balcony to Mini-Suite upgrade. Add ‘Princess Premier’, including a Premier Beverage Package, Multi-Device Wi-Fi and Crew Appreciation, Speciality Dining, Princess Prizes and a Photo Package for £60pp per day for all passengers Add ‘Princess Plus’, including a Beverage Package, Single Device Wi-Fi and Crew Appreciation for £40pp per day for all passengers FREE M INI- SUITE UPGRADE PLUS £50pp LOWDEPOSIT*
These Ted Baker Maarrgo large square-frame sunglasses are the ultimate suitcase staple, sheek enough to add style to your swimwear yet practical enough for exploring ashore. The modern shape is balanced by tortoiseshell pattern arms and Ted Baker branding (£75, tedbaker.com).
The lace race
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SUN SEEKER
FEELING BLUE Throw everything that you need for a long-haul flight or a full day at the beach into this new XL terry tote from Jem + Bea. Made from a lightweight towelling fabric, it’s also available in a leopard print canvas with the option of personalised lettering (£65, jemandbea.com).
FIRM FAVOURITE Holiday skincare isn’t just about SPF – get your complexion looking its best with this firming serum from high-end brand Kivu Skincare. Created by a Harley Street dermatologist, it uses snail mucin and witch hazel for firm, smooth skin (50ml, £109, kivuskincare.com).
17CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM CRUISE STYLE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
These cotton canvas pouches from Mama Shack were designed to carry baby essentials, but their hardwearing fabrics and generous size make a perfect travel wash bag – and with gorgeous prints including this banana leaf, your make-up or toiletries will travel in style (£17, mamashack.co.uk)
We love the nautical vibes from these women’s Nina waxed Bala moccasins from Sebago, available in John Lewis, Next and other retailers. The ‘Dockside’ boat shoe from this New England brand is perfect for walking tours or seafront strolls (£110, sebago.co.uk).
EASE INTO AUTUMN WITH OUR PICK OF MUST-PACK HOLIDAY ESSENTIALS
SHOPPING
Kimono casual Whether you want to glam up at dinner or cover up on the sun deck, thissheer chi on floral print tie-waist kimono from Live Unlimited London is both versatile and colourful. The tie waist lets you switch your silhouette from floaty and summery by day to more refined come evening (was £99, now £59, sizes 12-28, liveunlimitedlondon.com)
MAMMA MIA
BERGEN TRONDHEIMTROMSØ KIRKENES THE ARCTIC CIRCLELofotenGeiranger North Cape ÅLESUND BODØ HAMMERFEST To learn more visit havilavoyages.com or speak to your local travel agent. Prices from £900* per person Round Voyage (12 days), full board. *Price example from November 2022 Round Voyage: 5000 NOK (approx. £420) Voyage North/South: 2500 NOK (approx. £210) Booking date: 1 Sep - 31 Oct 2022 Departure date: 1 Sep 2022 - 31 Dec 2023 *Valid for new FIT bookings made between 1 Sep – 31 Oct 2022, departing by 31 Dec 2023. OBC is non transferable and must be spent during the voyage. SPECIAL OFFER* GET UP TO £420 PER CABIN IN ONBOARD CREDIT havilavoyages.com 12 DAYS - 34 PORTS Bergen - Kirkenes - Bergen ᄏ Sail the most sustainable, environmentally friendly coastal ships in the entire world ᄏ Sleep in spacious, comfortable and modern cabins with TV and free WiFi ᄏ Breakfast, lunch and dinner included. Delicious meals developed by award winning chefs THE BEST WAY TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF NORWAY
THE LATEST HEALTH AND WELLBEING NEWS FROM AROUND THE CRUISE WORLD
Emerald Cruises has released new yacht cruises in South and Central America, the Caribbean and the Med, featuring an onboard wellness coach who will host yoga for beginners and more experienced guests. The sister vessels – Emerald Azurra, which debuted this summer, and Emerald Sakara, set to launch in late 2023 – feature an infrared sauna, gym, infinity-style pool and a range of treatments in the Elements Spa & Wellness Centre. They will also offer some transatlantic sailings limited to just 100 guests for a more intimate atmosphere on board (emeraldcruises.co.uk). CRUISE
CUNARDPICTURE: HEALTH & WELLBEING 19CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
High-factor sun cream is a must when you travel, but this lightweight Flawless PhotoGlow SPF 30+ from beauty and skincare brand Transformulas offers all the hydration and luminosity you need, without the greasy feeling of standard sun creams. Its formula is said to refresh skin using anti-ageing ingredients to encourage collagen regeneration (£61, available in beauty retailers, Amazon or online at transformulas.com).
Freshen up your morning routine with this Alpine Micro-Mist from Mavala, a hydrating facial mist that offers a light spritz to awaken a tired complexion or revive your radiance as you freshen up before dinner. It contains cornflower water and Swiss apricot extract to tone and exfoliate, as well as offering an antioxidant boost (£18.40, nailpolishdirect.co.uk).
Rules relaxed Cruise lines including Royal Caribbean, Cunard and P&O Cruises have simplified Covid-19 testing and vaccination rules. Holland America Line, Seabourn, Windstar Cruises, Uniworld and Azamara are also among the lines to relax protocols. The changes vary depending on cruise length and the line in question, with restrictions remaining on longer or complex itineraries and for certain countries including Greece, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. P&O Cruises president Paul Ludlow said: “While certain elements have relaxed, our commitment to protect the wellbeing of guests, crew and the communities we visit remains an ongoing and vital consideration.” This information was accurate as Cruise International went to press, but check the latest rules with your cruise line before you travel.
Yoga by yacht
MISTY MORNINGS
FUN IN THE SUN
WELL
As godmother of the vessel, Katy Perry fulfilled the longstanding maritime tradition of blessing and officially naming Norwegian Prima before the ship set sail on its inaugural voyage from Reykjavik, Iceland – the first major cruise ship christened in the Icelandic capital.
Sail away with huge savings this winter and beyond Book now and you could save an amazing 40% off all NCL cruises and fly-cruises across all accommodation categories, plus receive up to £250 per person airfare credit on selected cruises. Indulge in Free at Sea upgrade packages –Premium Beverages, Speciality Dining, Wi-Fi and more – where you’ll get all applicable extras for just £199 per person* on a nine to 11-dayThere’scruise.still time to book for 2022, so you could escape to the sun this winter. Or plan ahead for next year when Europe highlights include sensational new ship Norwegian Prima heading for the spectacular scenery of Iceland, and the ever-popular
Norwegian Prima
To book, call 023 8124 5065, contact your travel agent or visit ncl.com
Norwegian Epic sailing new nine to 14-day Mediterranean sailings. Designed to elevate every experience on board, the Norwegian Prima class will include six innovative ships created by world-renowned Italian shipyard Fincantieri. Norwegian Prima set sail this summer, with second ship Norwegian Viva well on its way after floating out of dry dock. Wide-open spaces with sweeping ocean views and onboard experiences that go beyond your every expectation mean this new generation of ships has a truly distinct and luxurious feel. Unwind in NCL’s most spacious staterooms and enjoy first-in-class service, so you won’t wait a second for that second round. With an unprecedented staffto-guest ratio, guests will be prioritised and pampered like never before.
DISCOVER A NEW EXPERIENCE at sea on Norwegian Prima 20 21 Europe'sCruiseLeadingLine
Experience the Med’s most enchanting spots on this port-rich itinerary. Savour the refined shores of the French Riviera in Cannes, art and architecture in Florence (from Livorno), pizza in Naples and island vibes in Ibiza. Inside from £1,005, Balcony from £1,629 (departing May 7, 2023).**
FEATURED JOURNEYS
n Variety: Go from relaxation to exhilaration as you dip into infinity pools, dine on mouth-watering cuisine then stroll across the new glass bridge to feel like you’re walking over water.
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: *New qualifying bookings made for any open for sale 3+ night sailings made between 7 September and 30th September 2022 for individual FIT reservations and new created qualifying groups (delegates with names) for all stateroom categories. Cannot be held as a new or existing traditional or group block (except 40% discount). Not applicable to affinity / FS group types (except 40% discount). Free at Sea upgrade charge depends on cruise length – £199pp for cruises of 9-11 days. 3rd and 4th guest pay taxes only available on select sailings, and only valid where 1st and 2nd guests on booking pay full fare. 40% cruise and fly-cruise discount apply to total cruise only fare and flight cost of all guests subject to exceptions below. All offers: limits, conditions, restrictions and exclusions apply. Offers not applicable to charter or inaugural sailings. Single occupants paying 200% of voyage fare qualify. Up to £250 per person air credit applies to first and second guests (inc single guests) on reservation (inc IX, OX, BX and MX). Bookings in Balcony staterooms and above receive £250 per person air credit. Bookings in Oceanview staterooms and below receive £125 per person air credit. For new individual FIT (gross) reservations only for select open for sale sailings (excluding Norwegian Star and Norwegian Prima). Air credit will be applied against cost of flights selected at the time of booking using NCL’s interactive air only. Fly and Cruise bookings only, not applicable to cruise-only. Not applicable to any other guests on the booking or to child or infant prices. New individual FIT reservations cannot be moved into an existing speculative / traditional / gross group. Cannot be held as a group block and is not combinable with Interline or net rates. Offer is capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time. **Lead prices are shown in £GBP and based on cruise-only, dual occupancy including government taxes, port expenses and fees. NCL reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice. Government taxes, port expenses & fees, general excise tax (GET), discretionary onboard service charges and gratuities additional. Offers non-transferable, non-refundable, have no monetary value and cannot be substituted or customised. Offers and combinability subject to availability, capacity and change or withdrawal at any time. Full terms and booking conditions available at ncl.com. NCL (Bahamas) Ltd, UK Office, Mountbatten House, Grosvenor Square, Southampton, SO15 2JU. ©2022 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA.
Northern Europe: Iceland & Norway to Southampton from Reykjavik Norwegian Prima 10 days, May, July-Sept 2023, May-Sept 2024
n Service: Looking for the perfect wine pairing or craving a late-night treat? Enjoy the personal service of a concierge and 24-hour butler in The Haven.
n Style: Elegance is woven through every detail, from the grandeur of The Haven to the modern sophistication of Italian restaurant Onda by Scarpetta.
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Europe: Spain, Madeira & Canary Islands from Lisbon Norwegian Sun 11 days, December 2022
Explore Iceland’s volcanic scenery and the wildflower-filled fields of Thingvellir National Park, then enjoy the contrast between the serene beauty of the Norwegian fjords, the youthful energy of Amsterdam and the medieval buildings of Bruges. Inside from £1,535, Balcony from £2,345 (departing September 26, 2024).**
NORWEGIAN PRIMA n Space: Norwegian Prima has the most outdoor deck space of any new ship, so you can feel close to the ocean, stroll the expansive Ocean Boulevard or stretch out in the fleet’s most spacious rooms.
n Entertainment: Zoom around the world’s first three-level racetrack at sea, catch magical moves by the Noise Boys or dance to disco at Broadway sensation Summer: The Donna Summer Musical fromClockwisetopleft: Katy Perry; Club Balcony Suite; infinity pool; Blue Lagoon, Iceland
Enjoy winter sun and wild scenery as you wake up in a new island nearly every day, with calls in Madeira, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. They are bookended by time in Lisbon, Granada and Seville, for the ultimate Iberian adventure. Inside from £709, Balcony from £1,305 (departing December 11, 2022).**
PROMOTIONAL
FEATURE
Mediterranean: Italy, France & Spain from Barcelona Norwegian Epic 9 days, May-August 2023
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Family fun, far-flung adventures and five-star luxury await with our reviews of the latest ocean, expedition and river ships taking to the water SHIPSNEW 23CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | SCHOLZ;TONIBIANCO;MARTINPICTURES: SMITHAMYASHMAN;MARK
STORIES FROM THE BIG SCREEN
Staterooms are spacious and there are double the number of concierge options compared with previous ships, including the Wish Tower Suite, a two-storey penthouse that takes over one of the ship’s funnels. There’s plenty of merchandise to purchase, but the themed restaurants and kids’ clubs are included in the price, delivering excellent value for money. Disney Wish will sail three and four-night voyages to the Bahamas year-round from Port Canaveral, making the cruise a perfect add-on to a longer Florida holiday. All of the cruises call at Disney’s private island, Castaway Cay.
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 NEW SHIPS
fromClockwiseabove: Mickey Mouse; family dining in elegant restaurant 1923; having fun at the pool area on deck; Disney Wish; stateroomoceanview with Disney branding; Disney Seas the Adventure show; the theSensesadult-onlySpa;GrandHall 8 24
GETTING THERE A three-night cruise on Disney Wish departing from Port Canaveral, Florida on February 3, 2023, costs from £1,486 per person including flights from Gatwick to Orlando, transfers, taxes and a night pre-departure at the Hyatt MCO. disneyholidays.co.uk
Only some of the places you’ll travel to on Disney Wish are detailed on the cruise itinerary. Though you will be sailing in the Bahamas, you’ll be transported to Arendelle Castle with the cast of Frozen, to the Marvel multiverse with superheroes including Spiderman, Captain Marvel and Black Panther, and even to a galaxy far, far away in immersive Star Wars-themed venues. Disney Wish is the most fully realised ship from Disney Cruise Line yet, with every aspect inspired by one of the iconic stories the brand has brought to the big screen – from the thrilling, Mickey-themed AquaMouse water coaster that tumbles and turns around the top deck right down to the Untangled Salon, inspired by Rapunzel Children will understandably be in heaven. Characters from their favourite shows roam the decks and are happy to chat and pose for pictures, while the kids’ club is truly out of this world, with a Marvel Super Hero Academy, a Disney princess-inspired craft area as well as the low-lit, atmospheric Star Wars: Cargo Bay, which feels a lot like walking onto a film set. It’s not all about the kids, however. Adult fans can sip cocktails in the Star Wars: Hyperspace Lounge, an immersive bar with a digital ‘window’ into deep-space galaxies. The whole family can come together for fun, themed dining – you’ll meet the cast of Frozen in one restaurant, and Marvel superheroes in another – and for West End-quality theatrical shows, deck parties, fireworks at sea and family challenges, including the Disney Uncharted Adventure scavenger hunt, exclusive to DisneyWish More traditional cruise guests haven’t been forgotten, with an adult-only area that has much gentler Disney branding, including a quiet pool, sun deck and cafe, a sophisticated bar and two classy speciality restaurants. The spa, with its indoor/outdoor rainforest-styled relaxation area, is a haven too.
PHILLIPS;KENTSMITH;AMYPICTURES: STROSHANEMATTASHMAN;MARK
Disney Cruise Line’s fifth fun-packed ship has been designed with multigenerational families in mind, finds Joanna Booth DISNEY WISH EVERY ASPECT OF THE SHIP IS INSPIRED BY ICONIC DISNEY
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founded in the 1950s when British travel agency Swan’s Tours, operated by a father and son, organised a discovery cruise that sailed to Greece’s historical sites, with 128 university society members and three guest lecturers on board to provide added enrichment. The line never repeated the same itineraries twice, and took guests to places that, at the time, were undiscovered by even the most adventurousFast-forwardtravellers.70years and the rebirth of the brand, under new ownership, is taking it in a more premium direction while continuing to honour its BritishAllowingroots.guests the chance to “see what others don’t”, new-build ship SH Vega sails to the world’s most isolated VEGA
SH
The second ship from recently revived cruise brand Swan Hellenic is turning assumptions about expedition cruising on their head, finds Rebecca Barnes
In stark contrast to sailing the Mediterranean or Caribbean waters, expedition cruising has traditionally been no frills, no glamour and definitely devoid of creature comforts, making up for it with the excitement of exploring some of the most remote parts of the relaunchedHowever,world.anewlyexpedition cruise line is helping to change this perception with its five-star looks and technology.state-of-the-artSwanHellenicwas
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THE BRAND IS HEADING IN A MORE PREMIUM DIRECTION WHILE HONOURING ITS ROOTS
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GETTING THERE An 11-night Antarctic Peninsula cruise on SH Vega, departing on December 4, 2022, costs from £9,250 per person and includes return regional flights, transfers, one shore excursion or activity per port of call and one night precruise accommodation. Visit swanhellenic.com destinations and lesser-known ports of cultural, geographical or wildlife interest. With a Polar Class 6 icestrengthened hull and extra-large stabilisers for smoother sailing, the 152-guest ship is a sea-going sustainability superstar. Features include an advanced wastewater treatment system and dynamic positioning technology that allows the ship to remain in place without having to drop anchor into fragile seabeds. In Base Camp, guests are briefed and get changed in preparation for expeditions or Zodiac tours. Meanwhile, the science laboratory is for picking the brains of guest scientists, joining a workshop on cloud observations or analysing water samples. No matter where you are on the boutique ship, floor-to-ceiling windows treat you to clear views, while the understated ‘Scandi-luxe’ interior never distracts from the ever-evolving landscapes outside. There’s no theatre or Broadwaystyle entertainment on board – the show takes place outside. We loved the forward-facing Swan’s Nest observation deck and stargazing deck for those crystal-clear nights. Staterooms and suites are spacious and elegant with a high-spec yet welcoming feel. The majority have good-sized balconies, and all categories feature holographic flameeffect fireplaces that give a cosy vibe, no matter where you are sailing. Three dining venues offer both international and local cuisine inspired by regional ingredients: The Swan Restaurant is the main venue, while the Club Lounge serves 24-hour tapasinspired dining and fresh pastries. And in honour of the great British tradition, ‘High Seas High Tea’ is served daily. For those seeking something a little stronger, the Observation Lounge is the place to enjoy a cocktail while listening to low-key music and swapping stories of the day with fellow sailors. After a day ashore, guests can unwind in the spa, which uses La Mer and Lajatica products. The panoramic sauna with its incredible view is also a popular spot to relax. There’s even a gym for those with more energy to spare, plus a heated outdoor pool, hot tub and poolside seating so you can drink in the scenery wherever you are in the world. fromClockwisefarleft: Penguins kayaking;activitiesremotetheonanAntarctica;inexcursionaZodiac;shipvisitslocations;include SH Vega
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Clockwise from far left, top: The Chef’s sunviewsbrightlyfurnishingsmainloungebathroom;Germany;Rudesheim,ceremonychristeningTable;insuitetheisthehangout;arecoloured;fromthedeck; AmaLucia
I’ve arrived for breakfast and, quick as you like, without me asking, a plate of fruit and my usual pot of Earl Grey tea is served to the table. Before Covid was ever an issue, the bosses at river cruise line AmaWaterways had moved away from the buffet to a more refined waiter-service start to the day. And here it is, in action, on the new Rhine-based river ship, AmaLucia. Some nibbles and a drink to get you started and then a choice of dishes from the menu –eggs any way you like, waffles, minute steak, avocado toast and more – or create your own breakfast bowl with yogurts, fruits, nuts and bread from an actionWhatstation.atreat.
GETTING THERE
THE CHEF’S TABLE SERVES A SEVEN-COURSE TASTER MENU TO RIVAL LONDON’S TOP RESTAURANTS 29CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | PETRASKOMIROSLAVSCHOLZ;TONILOUAGIE;MIKEPICTURES:
The colour scheme carries through to the cabins and suites, most of which boast a split-balcony design that’s half outside and half inside, so there’s somewhere to sit and enjoy the views whatever the weather – and a shower that has a cheeky window into the room. Don’t worry, it can be obscured to protect your modesty!
Finding things in a buffet can be hard work; here it’s all done for you – at lunch as well as breakfast. It takes longer to get through the meal, especially if everyone arrives at once, but you can always get a light breakfast or lunch in a new bistro restaurant at the front of the lounge. It’s a lovely area, offering 270-degree views as you sail, but fills up quick. The Chef’s Table is different again, serving a seven-course taster menu that could rival some of London’s top restaurants (the coconut laksa soup got
Wellness hosts, wine tasting and waiters at every meal – Jane Archer tests out the little luxuries on AmaWaterways’ newest river cruise ship AMALUCIA my top marks), but with the added bonus of having fabulous views over the wake of the ship. Holding just 156 passengers, AmaLucia is nicely intimate with a happy feel, not least due to gaily coloured furnishings in the lounge that blend nicely with shades of cream and grey. This is the main hangout; quiet by day but buzzing with conversation during a sip-and-sail hour before dinner and live music with the resident pianist and a visiting band after. In a nod to the environment, plastic bottles of water and toiletries have been outlawed on AmaLucia, while in a nod to passengers’ wellbeing, fitness classes are offered by a resident wellness host. I was up stretching and doing tummy crunches, yoga and Pilates with Tiago at 7am each morning, but if you’re not an early bird there are plenty of hiking and biking tours alongside sightseeing and wine-tasting excursions. Or head to the sun deck, where you can relax and enjoy the views from comfy sofas at the front of the ship or put in a few lengths in a heated pool.
A seven-night Tulip Time cruise round-trip from Amsterdam departing March 19, 2023, on AmaLucia and calling into Hoorn, Middelburg and Rotterdam in the Netherlands, and Ghent and Antwerp in Belgium, costs from £1,946 per person based on two sharing a category E cabin with a fixed window. Price includes flights and transfers, all dining and excursions, drinks with lunch and dinner, fitness classes and Wi-Fi. Visit amawaterways.co.uk
Lake Lovatnet in LodalNorway’svalley
IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/COOKELMAGETTYPICTURE: Booth gets
active on a sailing along the fjords and shores of Scandinavia
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Green ENERGY Joanna
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Above: Nusfjord fishing village, Lofoten Islands, Norway
This fjord, a branch of Norway’s famous Sognefjord, is considered the wildest and most beautiful stretch of all. At just 250m wide at its narrowest point, and surrounded by peaks that rise up to 1,400m, we were cocooned between sky and water in a bubble of dreamy tranquility.
After paddling peacefully for around three miles, we stopped on a deserted stretch of grass across the fjord from the tiny village of Bakka, which provided a picturesque backdrop for a picnic lunch and a potted history of the area from our guide Jan Nielsen, founder of kayak tour company Nordic Ventures. As we sipped a post-prandial coffee in the sunshine, his stories of local farmers trekking for days through ice and snow to locate sheep stranded in remote valleys seemed to bear no relation to this gentle idyll. But when we relaunched our canoes, a stiff wind suddenly channelled into the narrow fjord and the water was whipped into scudding waves. Despite digging in deep with our paddles, the return trip took twice as long as our gentle outward journey, and when our kayak crunched onto the pebbles in Gudvangen, my aching biceps informed me exactly why Viking classes this excursion as physically demanding. This is undoubtedly one of the more challenging – though I’d argue also one of the most rewarding – excursions Viking offers in Flåm, the famous port in the heart of the Norwegian MANY PASSENGERS
OPTED FOR A RIDE ON THE FLÅM RAILWAY, A DRAMATIC JOURNEY INTO THE MOUNTAINS
W hen we set out, the Naerøyfjord was as smooth as a mirror. Though we were novice kayakers, my friend and paddle partner Will and I seemed to glide effortlessly across the water, with enough time between each leisurely stroke to gaze up at the rocky peaks that rose almost vertically on either side of us.
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the
Kayaking
This fun but not frenetic approach to adventure was characteristic of my Viking Shores and Fjords itinerary, a week-long sailing between Amsterdam and Bergen. Though it’s a voyage with variety, calling at ports with attractions that can cater to a wide range of interests, it’s easy to tailor your trip to add an extra dash of action in every destination. Stavanger, the lively Norwegian port with a beautifully preserved Old Town, was built on the 19th-century boom in herring fishing. You can discover its history at the immersive and surprisingly fascinating Canning Museum, or get a little more active by having a go yourself, heading out from the harbour in a turn-of-the-century wooden fishing boat. Accompanied by a captain and an expert guide, you’ll have the chance to hook cod, haddock, whiting and sea bass from the bountiful waters of the archipelago. Further south, down the coast in Kristiansand, we found more gentle adventure on offer. Fortified by coffee, we set off for a short hike along the winding paths of Baneheia, an urban forest packed with pretty viewpoints and – for those braver than I am about cold water – wild swimming spots. Even among the cultural urban sprawl of Oslo there fjords. You’ll find jaw-to-the-floor views no matter how you choose to explore: from a low-effort coach journey that takes you to the Stegastein Viewpoint, a 30m-long walkway that cantilevers out 650m above the fjord, to more thrilling Rib trips whisking you at speed over the water. Many of our fellow passengers opted for a ride on the famous Flåm Railway, a dramatic train journey climbing high into the mountains past waterfalls, through tunnels and over bridges. Viking allows you to add extra excitement by descending on a bicycle, a gentle freewheel that is high on adrenaline but low on the lactic acid which can build up in tired muscles.
;
Stavanger
fromClockwisetopleft: sisterNaerøyfjord;inship Viking Sky view from the Flam Railway; Canning Museum in
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WE TOOK UP THE EXCLUSIVE OPPORTUNITY FOR VIKING GUESTS TO GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE MUNCH MUSEUM
Clockwise from opposite page: onHeritageViewpoint;theExplorers’MunchGeirangerfjord;museum;Lounge;StegasteintheCentertheship8
ASLAKSEN;EINARIMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/TOMCH;GETTYPICTURES: NORWAYKNOFF/VISITSVEN-ERIKCRUISES;LAIGNEL/VIKINGERIC perfect territory to explore by bike, and we set forth along the quiet roads in the company of our local guide, Rita Eeg. As we pedalled past brightly painted wooden houses and alongside the wide, wild Baltic beaches, she pointed out the seascapes beloved by the Skagen Painters, a 19th-century colony of artists attracted by the region’s wild beauty. Turning inland, we explored the tranquil pathways of a nature reserve before making our way to the famous Buried Church. Only the tower of this 14th-century chapel is still in evidence, the rest swallowed up by the shifting, wind-blown sands. Having scaled the internal wooden stairways, I peered through a slit window and saw, beautifully framed, the familiar silhouette of our ship
35CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | SCANDINAVIA was plenty to keep our pulses racing. We took up the exclusive opportunity for Viking guests to go behind the scenes at the new Munch museum. Familiar only with the Norwegian artist’s most famous work, The Scream, I was astounded at the scale and diversity of his oeuvre. Heading through heavy security doors into the conservation studio, where even most of the museum staff have never set foot, we were able to quiz an expert on the preservation of the works and see them up close and unframed – a real thrill. Afterwards, keen to discover more of both the city’s art scene and its gorgeous, fjord-side scenery, I explored the Ekeberg sculpture park, a short tram ride from the centre. Wandering its woodland walkways and spotting works by artists from Dali and Rodin to Louise Bourgeois and Damien Hirst, I came across the spot where Munch was inspired to paint The Scream The pretty town of Skagen sits at Denmark’s northernmost tip, where the North Sea meets the Baltic. This area of the Jutland peninsula is a land of rolling sand dunes and endless skies, where the well heeled of Copenhagen come to holiday – a kind of Danish Hamptons. The flat terrain makes it
Viking’s ships are stylish havens, full of places to relax and indulge after action-packed days, from the spacious suites to the sunny terraces and cosy lounges. Convinced our efforts had burned through an impressive number of calories, we felt no guilt about sitting down to afternoon tea in the sleek Wintergarden, wolfing down traditional Scandinavian waffles in the quaint Mamsen’s cafe and making the most of the ship’s speciality restaurants, from inviting Italian cuisine at Manfredi’s to extravagant tasting menus at The Chef’s Table – all included in the cruise price. After our epic kayak adventure, an extra level of rest and relaxation was in order, and we found it in The Spa, an atmospheric space with a low-lit pool, treatment rooms and a thermal circuit. Booked in for a traditional Nordic bathing ritual, we switched between the welcome warmth of the sauna and steam room and the energising chill of the snow
This fromclockwisepage,topleft: Hiking by Skagen,Suite;PenthouseNaerøyfjord;theJuniorinfinitypool;Denmark Opposite page: The inBuriedfamousChurchSkagen
CRUISES;LAIGNEL/VIKINGWELLER/ERICARCHIMAGE/ANTHONYPICTURES: HEENNORWAY/OYVINDVISITIMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/TT;GETTYJOHNSEN;METTE
36 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 SCANDINAVIA
The seven-night Viking Shores and Fjords cruise on Viking Star between Amsterdam and Bergen starts from £3,190 per person, sailing in July 2024. Ports of call include Skagen, Oslo, Kristiansand, Stavanger and Flåm. The price includes return flights from select UK airports, all onboard meals in alternative restaurants including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, five included excursions, Wi-Fi, gratuities, access to the Nordic spa, evening entertainment, and enrichment talks.
Find out more or book at viking.com in the harbour. Afterwards, rolling along shady trails accompanied by the trill of birdsong, we made our unhurried way back towards Viking Jupiter, where we gave our muscles an après-cycle soak in the pool deck’s hot tub, toasting our efforts with fizz.
GETTING THERE
room and the frigid plunge pool. We even tried the traditional method of exfoliation – a brisk pummelling with a leafy bunch of birch twigs. I braced myself for a smarting sensation, but in fact, it felt more like a firm massage. Despite my recent immersion in the art of Edvard Munch, I certainly felt no need to scream.
37CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
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Caribbean
CALLING
Add a little spice to your next winter-sun sailing with Caribbean expert Nigel Tisdall’s guide to the region’s most colourful ports of call T his winter is going to be a fabulous time to take a Caribbean cruise. Covid protocols have been lifted in many islands, testing and vaccination requirements have been eased on many ships and there is an exciting choice of itineraries exploring this balmy region – including some that sail there from the UK. How do you decide where to go? A key part of these islandhopping adventures are the ports of call where you’ll have the best part of a day to taste the distinctive culture of each destination, visiting top-class sights and yes, relaxing on a palm-lined beach with a hit-the-spot rum punch. From engrossing World Heritage sites to soul-soothing sands, here’s our guide to the best places to take your sun hat on a tropical cruise you won’t forget.
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SAVE: If you plan to devote at least one day of your cruise to relaxing on the beach, make it the well-kept, 1.5-mile-long sands of Grand Anse. A taxi there takes around 15 minutes, but you can also go by water taxi in five; or, for a mini adventure, jump on the local bus.
SAIL: A 30-night Springtime in the Caribbean cruise aboard Saga Cruises’ Spirit of Discovery, departing Portsmouth on March 5, 2023, costs from £9,522 per person (saga.co.uk). Other lines visiting St George’s include Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, Hurtigruten and NCL.
SAVE: Don’t waste money on blue curaçao, a sweet and lurid liqueur made with bitter orange peel that’s promoted everywhere. Beauty and health products made using the island’s aloe vera are a much better gift or souvenir.
SAIL: A seven-night Tropical Delights cruise on February 5, 2023, costs from £1,500 per person including flights (tui.co.uk). Other lines visiting Willemstad include NCL, Silversea and Windstar Cruises.
ST GEORGE’S, Grenada SEE: With its lush greenery and colourfully painted houses, the Spice Island boasts one of the Caribbean’s prettiest harbours. It’s best explored on foot (but be warned, there are some steep hills), savouring its tumbledown character and calling into the House of Chocolate to learn about Grenada’s artisan chocolate-makers. For lunch, try grilled fish or curried goat in a restaurant on the Carenage. An excursion following the winding roads into the forested, mountainous interior is also great fun. Don’t bother with the touristy waterfalls – head instead for the Belmont Estate plantation, where you can learn about the island’s bountiful produce, then visit the seafront nutmeg-processing station at Gouyave and the water-powered River Antoine rum distillery, where they’ve been making the strong stuff since 1785.
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WILLEMSTAD, Curaçao SEE: This World Heritage-listed Dutch Caribbean port soon has you reaching for the camera to snap its colour-charged waterfront buildings, vivid street murals and the historic neighbourhood of Pietermaai. You can walk from the cruise terminal to the city centre, which has two parts, Otrobanda and Punda, that are connected by a pontoon bridge. Lit up at night, it’s an enjoyable place to stroll, with Plasa Bieu, a former market turned casual lunch venue, a good place for fish and goat dishes from a choice of vendors. Transport is required to reach the best beaches, such as Playa Porto Mari and Playa Kenepa, but expect them to be busy. Active cruisers will relish Curaçao’s snorkelling and diving, while Christoffel Park has hiking trails, driving routes and the Savonet Museum, so start early to make the most of it.
WillemstadWaterfrontinPunda, BENÍTEZRODOLFOPICTURE:
SEE: A firm favourite with British travellers, Barbados feels like home with its parish churches and love of cricket and gardens. There’s lots to see, so try a tour with the effervescent costumed guides known as The Characters of Town.
For a laid-back lunch of grilled langoustines, take the ferry to Anse Mitan. If you fancy a tour of this super-scenic volcanic island, book one that drives along the Route de Trace and calls into former capital St-Pierre, then follows the enchanting coastline that inspired painter Paul Gauguin. Alternatively, lovers of art and rum will appreciate the Habitation Clément distillery and sculpture garden near Le François.
HAUGHTONRICHARDNIVERA;AUTHORITY/GABETOURISMMARTINIQUEPICTURES:
CARIBBEAN
SAIL: A 20-day Caribbean Explorer cruise aboard Enchanted Princess, departing Fort Lauderdale on February 17, 2023, costs from £2,399 per person excluding flights (princess.com). Other lines visiting Fort-de-France include MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises and Ponant. 8
SAIL: A 27-night Grand Caribbean Celebration cruise aboard Queen Mary 2, departing Southampton on December 15, costs from £2,949 per person (cunard.com). Other lines visiting Bridgetown include Celebrity Cruises, Princess Cruises and Seabourn.
fromClockwiseabove: Lone Barbados;restaurant,Star PrincessEnchanted at MartiniqueSchoelcherBibliothèquesea;in
SEE: Commanding the huge Baie de Fort-de-France, the ebullient capital of this tropical outpost of France presents an engaging mix of Gallic tradition and Caribbean vivacity. You can stroll to its historical centre from the cruise ship piers, pausing at craft stalls and markets that do an attractive line in local spices, sauces and cosmetics (take euros in cash).
FORT-DE-FRANCE, Martinique
As you’ll most likely visit better beaches elsewhere on your cruise, concentrate on cultural sights or a slap-up lunch at one of the excellent seaside restaurants such as Champers, Lone Star and Paul Owens at the Beach House.
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Bridgetown’s Garrison Historic Area has been awarded World Heritage status for its colonial architecture, and the restored Synagogue Historic District has a fascinating backstory. The countryside is a delight to explore, with the highlight being stately home St Nicholas Abbey.
SAVE: Taxis are pricey so use the blue-and-yellow public buses. It’s a fun way to explore the beaches and shops on the west coast, with a flat fare of BDS$3.50 (£1.47, cash only).
BRIDGETOWN, Barbados
SAVE: Entry is free to the Bibliothèque Schoelcher, a public library built in Paris in 1889 then shipped over. Today it graces the northwest corner of leafy Place de la Savane.
First up is Brimstone Hill National Park, a World Heritage Site home to a colossal British fort from the 1690s known as the ‘Gibraltar of the West Indies’. Equally unique is the St Kitts Scenic Railway. This follows a narrow-gauge line originally used for sugar cane and trundles around the north coast to the accompaniment of a cappella singers in traditional dress – timings fit with cruise schedules. The best and liveliest beach is a half-hour drive away in the south at Cockleshell Bay, or there’s South Friar’s Bay, which is closer and has several bars. Golfers can hit a ball at the Royal St Kitts Golf Club where the palm-dotted course stretches between the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea.
SAIL: A 14-night Caribbean cruise aboard P&O Cruises’ Arvia – the line’s new ‘sunshine’ ship set to launch in December – departs Bridgetown on March 3, 2023, and costs from £1,999 per person including flights (pocruises.com). Other lines visiting Basseterre include Holland America Line, Star Clippers and Viking.
BASSETERRE, St Kitts & Nevis
South Friar’s Bay (top); the St Kitts Scenic Railway
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SEE: Cruise ships dock in the centre of the St Kitts capital and although it’s enjoyable to mosey around the old streets, your time will be better spent hotfooting it to the island’s more exceptional sights.
SAVE: Join locals for a friendly and inexpensive lunch at tiny El Fredo’s, on Newton Bay Road, where the menu is as Caribbean as it gets – think grilled fish, Creole chicken and fried plantain.
SAIL: A four-night Key West & Bahamas cruise aboard Celebrity Silhouette, departing Miami on November 17, costs from £392 per person excluding flights (celebritycruises. com). Other lines visiting Nassau include Carnival, MSC Cruises and P&O Cruises.
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SEE: Cruise ships dock in the heart of the Bahamian capital so expect to emerge into a melee of vendors, discount stores and handsome heritage buildings. To stretch the legs, take a walk up to Fort Fincastle, which was built in 1793 and is intriguingly shaped like a paddlewheel steamer, with fine views over the port. The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, housed in an elegant 1860s mansion, is worth some time, along with the absorbing miscellany of island finds in the Heritage Museum of the Bahamas. After that, you’re free to do what everyone else is here for –drinking cocktails, hitting the casinos and having fun on the beach. Nassau lies on the north coast on New Providence island, with Junkanoo Beach a 15-minute walk west, or take a taxi to Cable Beach, which is lined with hotels and stretches for three miles.
SAVE: John Watling’s Distillery is an old estate and small-scale rum producer in Downtown that offers complimentary tours and is home to a variety of birds.
NASSAU, The Bahamas
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Getting around in Downtown,Nassau
SAIL: Virgin Voyages’ Eastern Caribbean Antilles cruise includes a late night in San Juan, from £1,114 per person for eight nights departing from Miami on December 3, excluding flights (virginvoyages.com). Other lines visiting San Juan include Royal Caribbean, Azamara, Carnival and Regent Seven Seas Cruises.
SAN JUAN, Puerto Rico
CARIBBEAN
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SEE: Founded in 1521, San Juan is dramatic testimony to the power and wealth of colonial Spain. The capital of this energised US territory, where the music and good times never seem to stop, is about to rise up the ranks of the world’s key cruise ports with a planned multimillion-dollar upgrade to welcome bigger ships and enhance its cruise terminal. Most visitors are happy to explore its historical core, Old San Juan, crowned by the mighty forts of San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. Both o er guided visits, with the first a popular spot for picnics and kite flying. There are plenty of special interest tours focusing on Puerto Rican food, cocktails, photography and salsa as well as cultural landmarks, or you can just wander freely admiring the churches and shops. A popular spot to relax is the courtyard of Barrachina restaurant where the piña colada may or may not have been invented in 1963. Either way, you’ll have to try one...
SAVE: A free trolley runs between the cruise ship pier and the historical centre, handy if you’re tired or have done too much shopping.
47CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | CARIBBEAN Castillo San Felipe del MorroIMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/NAPA74GETTYPICTURE: Win! Turn to page 60 to find out how you could win an amazing holiday for two on a VirgincruiseVoyages
The Cruise Centre 6 Lindrick Way, Barlborough, Chesterfield S43 4XE then you won’t be disappointed - Headliners Theatre and The Crow’s Nest are never far away, but Arvia wouldn’t be worthy of its Excel class status without a few not-so-little ex If you’ve already stepped aboard Iona, then you can’t have fail SkyDome. Arvia’s is much the same, but with one major difference a whopping 40.96 meters by 34.24 meters, this glass dome will b on what the weather has in store. By day, you can stare at clea the pool. Once the sun sets (which you will, of course, have wa viewpoints on board), decks 16 and 17 come alive with evening entertainment. Aerial artists, cookery demos and DJ sets under the stars - SkyDome looks set to be the beating heart of Arvia. alongside a full programme of live events and entertainment. Canary Islands Canary Islands Caribbean Transatlantic ◊ PersonPer ◊ PersonPer ◊ PersonPer£1,564 £1,534 £1,257per£90cabintospendonboardWith^ per£90cabintospendonboardWith^ per£90cabintospendonboardWith^ 9 DEC 2022 | 14 NIGHTS | K203 23 DEC 2022 | 14 NIGHTS | K204 6 JAN 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K301 Southampton, Madeira (Funchal), Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Cadiz (Seville), Lisbon, Southampton Southampton, Funcal (Madeira), Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Cadiz (Seville), Lisbon, Southampton Southampton, Tenerife, St. Maarten, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Barbados, Fly to London Regional departures at no extra cost. ClubCruise Fares From ClubCruise Fares From ClubCruise Fares From MAIDEN VOYAGE CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR 0800 028 2177 £70PP LOW DEPOSIT Caribbean Mediterranean Mediterranean ARVIA (K304) | 17 FEB 2023 | 15 NIGHTS ARVIA (K307) | 2 APR 2023 | 14 NIGHTS ARVIA (K320) | 1 OCT 2023 | 13 NIGHTS £4,800 £2,276 £1,811Conservatory Mini-Suite fares from pp Conservatory Mini-Suite fares from pp Conservatory Mini-Suite fares from pp Fly from/to London*, Barbados (overnight in port), Curacao, Dominican Republic, St. Kitts, St. Maarten, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados Southampton, La Coruna, Mallorca, La Spezia (Florence/Pisa), Marseilles, Barcelona, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseilles, Barcelona, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton Enjoy the finer things in life from the comfort of your own personal haven onboard P&O Cruises new Excel-class luxury ship, Arvia. Bring the outdoors in from your conservatory Mini-suite, which is a personal and versatile conservatory-style room that forms an extension to the cabin offering great flexibility. Whatever the time or mood, you can choose to keep this space open or closed off whilst still enjoying the beautiful seascape views. Some highlights to a Conservatory Mini-Suite: A DAY IN THE SUITE LIFE ONBOARD ARVIA • Fresh fruit and mineral water in your cabin • Bottle of Champagne in your cabin • Box of Chocolates in your cabin • Bath Robes and Slippers • Fresh flowers in your cabin • Daily canapes • Inclusive room service • Spacious lounge area and separate bedroom
Skydome: Having something for everybody from day until nightfall, Arvia’s Skydome is the place where you can expect all day entertainment with something to please everybody in the family. With a retractable glass roof which will maximise your time in the sunshine and activities for everybody, you will be spoilt for choice. Gameshows, cookery demonstrations and live music to spectacular production shows, parties, DJ sets and blockbuster films on the SeaScreen are only the start of what Skydome has to offer.
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QUOTE: BCC REF 8121. ISSUED 24.08.22. The process of production/distribution takes several days and could therefore limit the availability of prices and accommodation as advertised, or they could not be available at all. Please see our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability Select Prices are per person and based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of cabin available. ^Book a new Select Price holiday Sea View cabin or above on applicable departures between 10 Jul 22 and 29 Oct 24 by 22 Aug 22 and receive extra on board spend to use during your cruise. ^Extra on board spend amounts shown are per cabin based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of Sea View cabin available and amount shown includes the Select Price benefit of on board spend plus the extra on board spend. Amount varies by cabin, cruise duration and date and is not applicable to Inside cabins or on cruises under 7 nights. ◊5% low deposit applies to new Select Price or Early Saver bookings made by 22 Aug 22 on applicable departures from 10 Jul 22 to 29 Oct 24. Offer excludes The World Cruise, Classic Southern Hemisphere Journeys and Exotic fly-cruises. For bookings made after the balance due date the full amount will be due at time of booking.
fares
| 1
| 13 NIGHTS £3,513 £2,722 £1,910Conservatory
Headliners Theatre: Make your night one to remember and head to Headliners Theatre where you will witness the dazzling lights of the LED backdrop and amazing production shows. P&O Cruises have just announced the latest addition to Arvia’s line up of show-stopping-entertainment: Greatest Days by Tim Firth. The Official Take That Musical features the songs of Take That and a beautiful story by Olivier Award-winning writer Tim Firth.
Offer is combinable with the current on board spend offer on qualifying departures 10 Jul 22 to 29 Oct 24. As the cruise line operates a fluid pricing policy these fares may change and P&O Cruises reserve the right to change or withdraw these offers at any time in whole or on individual cruises without notice. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. This advert contains an outline description of the cruises featured, which are solely organised by P&O Cruises. It should be read in conjunction with P&O Cruises current brochure which contains full information about the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are per person, based on twin occupancy in the lowest available grade within the category type, and already includes current fuel surcharges and Cruise Club Members Cashback at the time of going to print. *Other airports may be available at a supplement. Further terms and conditions apply, please call for details. Travel insurance, visa’s and vaccinations are at an additional cost. E&OE.
| 15 NIGHTS ARVIA
Grand Atrium
The Grand Atrium is certainly the heart of Arvia. Spanning over three decks, each level will offer guests a place to socialise, relax and dine all in beautiful décor whilst balancing larger social areas and more intimate spaces. Being the main focus of entertainment for the ship, you will find anything from aerial performers descending through the triple-height space to a spectacular background for live entertainment.
Conservatory
BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST HIGH STREET CRUISE AGENCY BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST CRUISEONLINEAGENCY popular SeaScreen has you covered.
Infinity and Panorama
QUOTE: BCC REF 8118. ISSUED 06.07.22. The process of production/distribution takes several days and could therefore limit the availability of prices and accommodation as advertised, or they could not be available at all. Please see our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability. This offer applies to new bookings only and may be withdrawn by P&O Cruises without notice. It is not combinable with any other promotion and is subject to the booking conditions of P&O Cruises. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. This advert contains an outline description of the cruises featured, which are solely organised by P&O Cruises. It should be read in conjunction with P&O Cruises current brochure which contains full information about the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are per person, based on twin occupancy in the lowest available grade within the category type, and already includes current fuel surcharges and Cruise Club Members Cashback at the time of going to print. Further terms and conditions apply, please call for details. Travel insurance, visa’s and vaccinations are at an additional cost. E&OE.
Conservatory Mini-Suite
Fly
Be among the first to experience Arvia, the brand new P&O Cruises ship. when she launches in December 2022. Take your pick from one of her incredible itineraries, ranging from seven to 22 Arvia’snights.maiden voyage sets sail from Southampton on 9 December 2022, when guests will head down to the Iberian Peninsula in search now possible to book Arvia as far ahead as 2024. More Caribbean and Transatlantic itineraries await, so if you want a countdown to beat all holiday countdowns, add Arvia to your list. (K405) MAR 2024 (K406A) MAR 2024 (K420) SEP 2024 Mini-Suite from pp fares from pp Mini-Suite fares from pp from/to London*, Barbados (overnight in port), Tortola, Dominican Republic, St. Maarten, Antigua, St. Kitts, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados Fly from London* to Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Kitts, St. Maarten, Tenerife, La Coruna, Southampton Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseilles, Barcelona, Cadiz (Seville), Southampton
EXCITING THINGS ON ARVIA
Where is Arvia going? Caribbean Caribbean TransatlanticCaribbean ◊ PersonPer ◊ PersonPer ◊ PersonPer£2,207 £1,376 £1,930per£90cabintospendonboardWith^ £100percabintospendonboardWith^ per£90cabintospendonboardWith^ 17 FEB 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K304 17 MAR 2023 | 16 NIGHTS | K306 24 NOV 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K324 Barbados Regional departures at no extra cost. Regional departures at no extra cost. Regional departures at no extra cost. Fly from/to London, Barbados (overnight in port), Curacao, La Romana, St. Kitts, Antigua, St. Maarten, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados Fly from London, Barbados (overnight in port), St. Lucia, Martinique, St. Kitts, Tenerife, La Coruna, Southampton Fly from/to London, Barbados (overnight in port), Tortola, La Romana, St. Maarten, Antigua, St. Kitts, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados ClubCruise Fares From ClubCruise Fares From ClubCruise Fares From £70PP LOW DEPOSIT Caribbean Caribbean Transatlantic Mediterranean ARVIA
Pool and Bar Get your swimwear on and head towards ultimate luxury where you will be able to find loungers, whirlpools, infinity pools and even a swim-up bar by day. By night, get your party shoes on and take things up a notch with live music and silent discos.
Just when you think you’ve seen it all on board a P&O Cruises ship, they go and knock it out of the park with this sky-high spectacle. If you’re afraid of heights then look away now. Altitude Skywalk includes two courses scaling 54 metres above the ocean waves in the first P&O Cruises high ropes Ratherexperience.keep your feet on the ground? pick up a putter and try your hand at nine holes of tropicalthemed Altitude Minigolf on the level below. For the youngsters in your party, head to Altitude Splash Valley, a colourful outdoor play area with interactive water features. That should keep them happy for a good few hours! Thought you couldn’t handle any more P&O Cruises firsts? Arvia will also feature a submarinethemed, multi-sensory escape room experience. With two storylines to choose from and a host of twists and turns to navigate, Mission Control is sure to be a sea day hit.
Altitude Skywalk, Minigolf and Splash Valley Mission Control Escape Room
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SOUTH GEORGIA
on my mind South GEORGIA Antarctica is enough of an adventure for most, so why invest extra time to reach South Georgia? Mark Stratton finds outMAYRTYSONPICTURE:
T he first wave is an acrid smell of fishy guano, the second a cacophonous wall of squawking, like windscreen wipers on full throttle in a rainstorm, and the final wave is the Atlantic’s feisty swell delivering our Zodiac dinghy crunching onto a gravelly beach where I can scarcely believe my Penguins.eyes.Several hundred thousand of them. Some bounding out of the ocean with bellyfuls of fish, but mostly huddled throngs of black and white bodies with a splash of gold, the trademark of elegant king penguins. Amid this melee are creches of chicks, fluffed up with brown feathery coats, and squeaking at altogether higher frequencies to their parents, many of whom will be far out to sea, fishing to feed them. They may seem safe ensconced amid the colony, yet always-opportunistic skuas and prehistorically ugly giant petrels circle them probing for the slightest weakness. This is South Georgia’s incredible wildlife theatre. It would be easy to rest on your laurels having experienced a life-affirming cruise to Antarctica. Another tick on the bucket list. The classic 10-day sailing to the Antarctic Peninsula is an ever-popular voyage for many first timers, affordable in both cost and time. The next step up, however, is subantarctic South Georgia, a South Atlantic island 500 miles northeast of the nearest point of the peninsula. With trips incorporating Antarctica, it’s a significant outlay in both time – with voyages typically lasting around three weeks at sea – and cost, where you can expect little spare change from £15,000 per person. So, just what makes it worth this investment?
WE REACH THE WEST COAST OF THE ISLAND AND ARE ASSAILED BY A BLIZZARD OF BIRDS 52 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 SOUTH GEORGIA 8 PHOTOGRAPHY/ETCHDBAYNES;MICHAELPICTURES: STRATTONMARKHORSPOOL;MATTHEW
The
First, South Georgian cormorants arrive with their powder-blue eye rings, then skuas and giant petrels, perhaps drawn to the aromas of the galley, while albatrosses glide alongside us eliciting gasps at their colossal wingspans.
Mortimer
As we arrive in this historic fjord – Shackleton entered here in 1916, sailing the James Caird lifeboat and seeking to save his crew trapped back in Antarctica –humpback whales appear, their blow crystallising on a frosty, clear blue morning, while penguins bounce past like Barnes Wallis bombs.
This is a foretaste of what renders South Georgia the next level up from Antarctica for wildlife lovers. Ever since whalers abandoned it in the mid-1960s, having slaughtered whales, seals and penguins for blubber oil, pelts and food, nature has reasserted itself. With just a token presence of scientists nowadays, South Georgia is one of the world’s only ecosystems in recovery. The penguin colonies number hundreds of thousands, elephant seals are half-a-million strong, and the five million fur
Clockwisefromabove: platformthekayakingamongspa;snow-coveredWalkShackleton’sexcursion;afursealthekelp;fromactivitiesonthe Greg
The answer is borne upon the winds that lash its forbiddingly mountainous terrain. After a two-day sailing from the Antarctic Peninsula on Aurora Expeditions’ Greg Mortimer – its state-of-the-art rounded bow mercifully dampening the Southern Ocean’s boisterous swell – we reach King Haakon Bay on the island’s west coast to be assailed by a blizzard of birds.
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At Gold Harbour they mingle with thousands of baby fur seals with adorable dark eyes, who scamper towards you like overenthusiastic puppies putting in mock charges. Their energy is proportionally inverse to the hauled-out male elephant seals, several dozen of which scrunch together dozing at one end of the beach. These monstrously obese males, some four tonnes in weight, are weary postbreeding season after brawling with younger pretenders to maintain their harems.
Clockwise from opposite page: Greg Mortimer’s hydraulic viewing platform; watching a minke whale; disused whaling station, chinstrapmacaroniGrytviken;andpenguins 8
If 25,000 pairs blew my mind at the former, 125,000 pairs, spreading as far as my eye could see, rendered me dumbstruck at Salisbury Plain.
White snot encrusts their elephantine snouts (hence the name), and they burp, break wind and square up like pub drunks with other males before flopping back into the sand, exhausted. Even off shore, I marvel at South Georgia’s bounty. The ship’s twice-daily 57
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | SOUTH GEORGIA YOU DON’T NEED TO BE EVEN HALF-COMPETENT TO RETURN WITH INCREDIBLE PHOTOS
seals are back from the brink after 18th-century sealers almost clubbed them into extinction. Whales, meanwhile, are making steady recoveries. Landings by Zodiac are never easy due to the capriciousness of both winds and tides, often forcing expedition leaders to revert to plan B, and even sometimes C and D. Yet we enter King Haakon Bay on a bright beautiful day and sail past blinding-white glaciers that possess the stretch marks of climate change retreat –blue-tinged crevasses. We make our first landing at Peggotty Bluff beach where, as an aficionado of Shackleton, stepping ashore is almost a quasi-religious experience. His weatherbeaten skeleton crew collapsed onto this beach after a terrifying ordeal at sea crossing from Antarctica. Our ship’s historian, Steve Martin, shows me where they drew the James Caird ashore, and points out the direction Shackleton and his only two fit men, Worsley and Crean, set off across the inland glaciers to complete a first-ever crossing of the island’s mountainous spine to a Norwegian whaling settlement on the eastern coast, to find rescue. Peggotty Bluff is also an introduction to one of the most beautiful of the southern hemisphere’s 18 penguin species. The kings are tall, a photogenic catwalk penguin, 80-90cm high, with orange-golden markings around their neck and head, and a long curved bill. I’m not going to downplay seeing macaroni penguins, with their mad professor eyebrows, or plucky gentoos, but the kings are iconic South Georgia. We encounter them during successive landings over six days of exploring South Georgia, most notably on the beaches of Gold Harbour and Salisbury Plain.
They are curious enough to waddle towards you and the ones that have just splash-landed ashore glisten in the sunlight, cleanly perfect like toy figurines just taken out of their box. You don’t need to be even a half-competent photographer to return with incredible photos from South Georgia.
Clockwise from bottom left: Elephant seals; Captain’s Suite; Giant GeorgiaIsland;albatross,wanderingPrionSouthpipit
PORTELLI;SCOTTMACKINTOSH;RACHELLEPICTURES:
PROJECTSHUTTERSTOCK/GOLDILOCKSTRATTON;MARK
The price includes internal charter flights, but international flights cost extra. Find out more at auroraexpeditions.co.uk
The museum tells of his death on the island in 1922 through a heart attack before his final expedition to Antarctica could begin. He was laid to rest beneath a large Scottish granite headstone in a little cemetery nearby, where I offer up a shot of whisky from a hip flask at the hard-drinking explorer’s tomb, a rite of passage for first-timers to South Georgia.
Shackleton would have seen this operation in full swing when he was here, and old sepia pictures in a brilliant little museum confirm his visits in 1914 and 1916. In between those dates, the expedition was marooned in Antarctica after his ship, Endurance, sank, remaining untouched on the seabed until it was discovered in remarkable condition earlier this year.
activities include Zodiac excursions, probing craggy volcanic rock inlets. On one morning at Cooper’s Bay, amid kelp forests waving like octopus tentacles in the currents, juvenile fur seals and fearsome leopard seals frolic around us, and we spy macaroni penguins stubbornly nesting up inhospitable rock slopes star-bursting with yellow lichen. At Prion Island, off the eastern coastline, I feel the downdraft of the four-metrewide wingspan of wandering albatrosses, colossal globetrotters that are reviving in numbers courtesy of conservation work that has eliminated the non-native rats that predated on their nests. Eventually, the gravitational pull of Shackleton draws me into the only settlement of note, Grytviken. After Shackleton crossed South Georgia, he stumbled into Stromness whaling station and began a rescue plan that would ultimately save all of his expeditionary crew. Visitors these days, however, will experience Shackleton’s pervading aura in Grytviken. Besides incredible wildlife, this cruise offers a front-row seat to perhaps the greatest adventure story ever told.
Nowadays, though, it’s the islands’ stellar menagerie of wildlife that is the unforgettable toast of the South Atlantic.
Grytviken remains full of the paraphernalia of whaling and feels so raw that it’s as if those practising this dark art abandoned the island only yesterday. By the shoreline are thick chains that would have hauled whale carcasses ashore to be flensed and then processed for oil. Nearby, a stranded whaling vessel, its harpoon gun still mounted, decays on the shoreline.
GETTING THERE Aurora Expeditions offers a 21-day Falklands, South Georgia & Antarctic Peninsula voyage departing November 15, 2023, from £15,415 per person based on two sharing an Aurora Stateroom.
58 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Escape on a holiday like no other.
FALKLAND ISLANDS
@FITBinfo@falklandislands.com+500ilovethefalklands@FITBfalklandislands.comTourism22215Tourism
To get ready for the launch of ships three and four –Resilient Lady in May 2023 and Brilliant Lady after that –the Branson-owned brand is giving you a chance to sample that stylish Virgin vibe with your choice of holiday.
TAKE YOUR PICK OF ANY YOUR CHOICE OF SEVEN-NIGHT SAILINGS IN COMPETITION 60 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Virgin Voyages has shaken up the cruise scene since it took to the high seas with Scarlet Lady and, earlier this year, second ship Valiant Lady, thanks to its mix of first-class dining, festival-inspired entertainment and a fun, fitness-focused atmosphere.
You’ll get a Sea Terrace cabin for two on any cruise up to seven nights, so you can choose from sun-kissed sailings in the Caribbean this winter – including a day at The Beach Club in Bimini – or a short-haul hop to Europe in the spring. Virgin Voyages incorporates a host of overnight stays into its itineraries so you won’t miss a moment in the hottest destinations around, whether you fancy living it up in Ibiza or staying out until the early hours in Mykonos. You won’t want to miss out on the things to do on
Win
For your chance to win a cruise for two people, staying in a Sea Terrace cabin on any Virgin Voyages sailing up to seven nights, simply answer the question below before the competition closes at 11.59pm on November 7, 2022.
■ Red Lady ■ Robust Lady ■ Resilient Lady
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: The competition is open to adults aged 21 and over who are resident in the UK. One entry per person. The winner will be given an Access Key valid for two Sailors in a Sea Terrace cabin for any sailing up to seven nights, excluding flights. Access Keys are for new bookings only and cover the voyage fare only, excluding all taxes, upgrades, voyage protection, transfers (unless in a suite), and applicable fuel surcharges. They are based on double-occupancy, are valid for the recipient only, are non-transferable and cannot be combined with any other discounts or promotions. Access Keys may be limited to a specified itinerary and stateroom category. Winner must satisfy Virgin Voyages’ additional requirements for passage as set out on its website. Subject to availability. Entries must be received by the closing date of 11.59pm on November 7, 2022. Additional terms and conditions apply and can be found at cruise-international.com/win-with-virgin-voyages board either, from free fitness classes and sunrise yoga in The Perch, to top-class entertainment in The Red Room and total relaxation in the Redemption Spa. Then there are the dining options, where the no-buffets-allowed rule means Michelin-worthy meals, from Korean barbecue to Mexican bites via Hawaiian poke bowls, high-end Italian and an open kitchen serving up tasting menus to die for.
Every cruise includes more than $600 worth of added extras free of charge – including all tips, Wi-Fi, inclusive dining, group workout classes and non-alcoholic drinks of tea, coffee, water, sodas and non-pressed fruit juices. To experience Virgin Voyages for yourself, simply answer the following question and enter on our website.
What is the name of the Virgin Voyages ship set to launch in May 2023?
HOW TO ENTER
To enter, go to cruise-international.com/win-with-virgin-voyages
ACEVEDO;VOYAGES/MELANIEVIRGINPICTURES: DISLEYMARTINHANSCHE;SHUTTERSTOCK/SVEN CRUISE WITH VIRGIN VOYAGES THE CARIBBEAN, THE MEDITERRANEAN AND BEYOND 61CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
KADZIOLKASHUTTERSTOCK/MARCINPICTURE: STORNOWAY Stornoway IN A DAY Make the most of a stop in the Outer Hebrides’ captivating capital with Julie Peasgood’s port round-up
64 STORNOWAY | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM
Pre-dating Stonehenge at more than 5,000 years old, the world-famous Callanish Standing Stones are not only free, they are also open year-round. And unlike their southerly counterpart, touching them is permitted, meaning you can feel a connection with the most mysterious stone circle in Britain. A short drive away is another must-see: the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village features a group of authentically restored thatched crofters’ cottages, so you can step back in time and experience a bygone Hebridean lifestyle.
Above: BlackhouseGearrannanVillage
Located on the east coast of Lewis, the most northerly of all the Western Isles, Stornoway began as a Viking settlement and is now a thriving port of call. While many cruise lines feature the islands’ largest town on their itineraries, the much-anticipated new Deep Water Terminal – currently under construction – is expected to be a game changer for cruise visitors because larger ships will no longer need to tender passengers in. I first fell in love with Stornoway, and subsequently the Outer Hebrides, on a ship’s excursion. Although it’s a lively gateway to the islands, it remains unspoilt and has plenty to offer visitors. Popular excursions provided by cruise lines cover the celebrated highlights of Lewis: the superb monolithic Callanish Standing Stones on the west coast, the historic Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, and Rib adventures along the coastline where you can spot seals, dolphins, basking sharks and dramatic sea caves.
STORNOWAY IS A LIVELY GATEWAY TO THE ISLANDS, BUT IT REMAINS UNSPOILT
The island of Harris, adjoining Lewis to the south, is blessed with jaw-dropping, Caribbean-style beaches and
A firm favourite on the BBC’s shipping forecast, Stornoway is the capital of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, an ancient chain of islands home to magical white-sand beaches, awe-inspiring landscapes, remarkable wildlife, fresh seafood and an unrivalled peace and serenity.
There is a cluster of excellent coffee shops in the town: Artizan, No.9, Kopi Java and my favourite, The Blue Lobster,
The Stornoway Smokehouse on Shell Street is renowned for its mouthwatering, whisky-cured smoked salmon, cheese, and peat-smoked kippers (if your cabin doesn’t have a fridge you can always order online for delivery at a later date). And if you’re a fan of black pudding you’re in the right place, because Charles Macleod Butchers sells award-winning, gourmet black or white puddings that are second to none.
65CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | are all very popular, as is antiques emporium Lewis Revival, full of eclectic, fascinating collectables. It’s well worth visiting Lews Castle too, an imposing Gothic Revival-style castle built in the mid-1800s and set in lovely grounds overlooking the harbour. And don’t miss the Museum nan Eilean next door: immersive and interactive, it gives both historical and contemporary insights to the Hebrides, with well-presented exhibits including several of the original, iconic Lewis Chessmen. turquoise seas, but given the distances involved, Harris is more likely to be covered by a private car or minibus tour. Several ships offer day trips with assigned drivers, so although it is possible to rent your own car – and there is only one road south, so you won’t get lost – it may be a little daunting to attempt in a limited time frame. But if you do wish to be independent and go off-piste, Stornoway is a safe place to explore and has lots to do within easy reach of the picturesque port. The Town Hall houses the Harris Tweed Authority, where you can watch skilled weavers working the looms to produce this unique cloth. Then browse the Harris Tweed Hebrides shop for jackets, coats, bags and accessories in a myriad of colourful weaves.
GETTING THERE Cruise lines that feature Stornoway in their itineraries include: P&O Cruises, Azamara, Oceania Cruises, Hurtigruten, Saga, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, Marella Cruises, Holland America Line, NCL, Celebrity Cruises, Seabourn, Cunard, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Carnival, Viking and Royal Caribbean International. For more British Isles voyages go to cruise-international.com
PHOTOGRAPHY/ROBILLARD/BBASHUTTERSTOCK/MERLEPICTURES: HOTSON/MYTRAVELCURATORTRAVELLIGHT/HELEN fromClockwisetopleft: Highland cow; stone circle at LewsSeilebost,theCallanish;beachatHarris;Castle
AMAWATERWAYS
FRED OLSEN CRUISE LINES
An 11-night In Search of the Northern Lights sailing, round-trip from Liverpool on Borealis, costs from £1,499 per person departing November 13, 2022 (fredolsencruises.com).
5 OF THE BEST CRUISES FOR ART LOVERS
Follow in the footsteps of famous painters or brush up on your own skills with an art-themed cruise. Jeannine Williamson picks out sailings that are guaranteed to inspire your artistic side 1Hone your skills in the studio
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM
Clockwise from bottom left (this page): Portuguese blue tilework, or azulejo; Olsen Art Studio, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines; Van Gogh’s grave; gardenMonet’sinGiverny
2 Create lasting impressions in France
This summer, The Olsen Art Studio was introduced on Fred Olsen’s newest ships, Borealis and Bolette. Classes go hand in hand with new Signature Experiences – in particular Itinerary Insights and Scenic Discoveries – that are available on every cruise. These are used as the basis for tutorials in the new studios, such as painting the Northern Lights in watercolour in Norway and an embroidery class in Funchal, Madeira, which is renowned for its needlework.
You’ll feel like you’re stepping into a painting at Monet’s garden in Giverny, where willow trees, the Japanese bridge and, of course, water lilies were immortalised in his work. This cruise also features an Artists’ Walk through Auvers-sur-Oise, where Van Gogh completed 70 of his final paintings, and pretty Honfleur, which is regarded as the birthplace of Impressionism. Other stops include Rouen Cathedral, captured on canvas by Monet, Lichtenstein and Turner.
A seven-night Impressions of the Seine & Paris, Paris to Le Havre sailing on AmaDante starts from £2,355 per person departing April 1, 2023 (amawaterways.co.uk).
3 Make mosaics on the Douro EMERALD CRUISES
Seven-night Secrets of the Douro, round-trip from Porto sailing on Emerald Radiance, starts from £1,253 per person departing November 26, 2022 (emeraldcruises.co.uk).
Glazed blue ceramic tiles, or azulejos, adorn everything from houses to churches and railway stations in Portugal. After learning traditional mosaic painting and design techniques from a local expert in a class held on the ship, you can try your hand at decorating a clay tile and then take it home as a unique souvenir. The itinerary also visits Espaco Mira, which showcases upcoming Portuguese artists in a pair of former warehouses in Porto.
BAKHIREV/SIGAEV/ANNAVEE/OLEGSHUTTERSTOCK/ROMANPICTURES: LINECRUISEOLSENFREDDURIEU/TICHR/JIANN;JEANPIERRE ART CRUISES CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM (thisfromClockwisetopleftpage): Oceania’s Artist Loft; AmaDante; discovering silk in Lyon; Pont Van Gogh, Arles; sunset on the river, Porto
The seven-day Turkish & Hellenic Gems, Athens to Istanbul cruise on Marina, costs from £1,939 per person departing May 4, 2023 (oceaniacruises.com).
5 Capture spectacular memories
The Artist Loft can be found on Marina and sister ship Riviera and is a haven for anyone looking to explore their creative side, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned painter. Talented artists in residence offer step-by-step instruction in an array of arts, including painting, drawing, sculpture and photography.
Immortalise awe-inspiring destinations visited ashore such as the Acropolis in Athens or the grandeur of Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace.
The 10-night Spectacular South of France, round-trip Lyon cruise on Scenic Sapphire costs from £2,538 per person departing April 11, 2023 (scenic.co.uk).
SCENIC Lyon, the French cultural capital, is also famous for silk production. On this sailing you can attend a workshop and paint a piece of silk in an individual design to take home. Other stops include Arles, where the bridge is instantly recognisable from Van Gogh’s paintings. Back on board there’s a class to learn how to paint in his style, inspired by water and reflections on the Rhone.
4 Head up to an artist’s loft OCEANIA CRUISES
Main EVENT
We started in Frankfurt where our ship, Tui Isla – the third in Tui’s burgeoning river cruise fleet, which began sailing in April – was moored just 10 minutes’ walk from the Old Town. Settling down for lunch in the restaurant, we watched a steam train chuff along the banks of the Main, while on our other side, a stream of pleasure cruisers and pedalos paraded in front of us, turning at the art museum before filing back again. Then it was our turn. We set off, but we barely noticed it. Isla is a modern ‘twin cruiser’ where the engine is separated from the rest of the ship, eliminating the noise and vibration found on older vessels. It’s a must for all upmarket tour operators, and Isla’s elegant decor – from the foyer’s spiral staircase to the fireside lounge – match those of high-end rivals, despite its prices remaining remarkably low.
Explore castles and countryside on Germany’s river less travelled, writes Colin Nicholson Snaking between vineyard-clad mountains, we sailed past half-timbered villages and medieval castles. And yet we weren’t on the Rhine, nor the Danube, but the waterway linking the two – the River Main. This 325-mile-long tributary of the Rhine was only connected to the Danube via canal in 1992, though the first attempt to join the rivers dates back to Charlemagne, king of the Francs. And to sail up the Main is to immerse yourself in the history and culture of the German region of Franconia in an experience to rival that of its two better-known cousins.
True, the airy and comfortable cabins don’t have marble bathrooms, and the food was often four-star hotel quality rather than that of an upmarket restaurant. But if you’ve put off river cruising on grounds of cost, or want to explore a lesser-known waterway on a budget, this is a steal.
THE 68 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 MAIN RIVER 8
DEMARCZYKIMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/THOMASGETTYPICTURE: Opposite: Tui Isla This page: The palace Aschaffenburgat
We were headed for Bamberg, like Würzburg a Unesco World Heritage Site and another ancient university town, which gives both cities a real buzz. From its Little Venice – so called because the 15th-century fishermen’s houses are built on stilts – we followed cobbled streets up to the spectacular bishop’s palace, and then down to the town hall, built in the river in 1386 because the bishop reputedly didn’t want to grant land for its construction.
Word has yet to get out. There were only a hundred of us on board the vessel out of a possible 155 – all British, as we found out when our cruise director, a former teacher, did the roll call for our tour at Aschaffenburg.
Birds, however, aren’t so protected as to stop us from enjoying delicious duck à l’orange with a Franconian Spätburgunder, this being a rare red wine-producing region of Germany.
Too soon, we were off again. As we dined, people waved at us, glad to see cruise ships back after two years of Covid – and we raised glasses of beautifully mineral-rich Sylvaner wine in return. River cruise ships are small enough not to overwhelm villages with guests, and artificial islands of rock in the river protect the banks – and birdlife – from our wash.
Bamberg was the first stop where we moored out of town, and here it became clear that the ship was sinking. Those in the bottom deck cabins noticed it first, having portholes rather than French windows that were now just millimetres above the water line. But this was no accident. We were ‘bunkering’, the practice of taking on THE SAUNA WE ADMIRED THE VINEYARDS OF THE SPESSART MOUNTAINS
Wertheim, where we arrived next, was small enough to be spared bombing, so its houses and small-scale basilica, all dating back to the Middle Ages, are in their original state. The only war damage we saw was in the hilltop castle – and that was from the Thirty Years War, which determined the towns that became Protestant and those that stayed Catholic in the 1600s.
After that stiff climb we needed our yoga class on board with instructor Zuzi. While the sun deck was often closed due to low bridges, Isla has a spa, so from the hot tub we watched fellow bathers on the beaches and admired the vineyards of the Spessart Mountains from the sauna.
FROM
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There’s no pressure to go on excursions. One of the joys of river cruising is being moored up in the heart of a city, often on the doorstep of big attractions. But like all the tours this one was educational, especially seeing the stonemasons’ college that helped reconstruct so many cities in such detail after the war.
Würzburg, our next stop, is a city founded on wine. It is a charming mix of medieval and baroque, from the Romanesque cathedral, one of 52 churches in the city – “one for every Sunday of the year”, as our guide put it – to the rococo residence of the prince bishop, with its trompe l’oeils to rival Versailles.
Tui Isla’s foyer; grapes ripening on the vine; view from a Superior French Balcony cabin at sunset; the city of Würzburg
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BAMBERG IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE AND AN ANCIENT UNIVERSITY TOWN, WHICH GIVES IT A REAL BUZZ 73CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 | MAIN RIVER 8
74 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 CAROVILLANO;FRANCESCOTRYKOWSKI;FLORIANPICTURES: TOURISMFRANCONIAGNTB;HUB;ANDREASHITZEMANN;ANDREA
Clockwise from bottom left: The Church of St Lorenz, view over the city, and Max Bridge, all inenjoyingNuremberg;beerBamberg
It was much needed in a summer dogged by low water on the Rhine. On the Main, with its 35 locks, we had no such worries, and besides we were too busy dressing for the gala dinner. This seven-course meal – done to perfection – was a chance to show our appreciation for the 44 crew, and for them to thank us for helping sink the ship by eating so much. Then there was the nightly entertainment – an eclectic mix of classical and popular – from violinists and the onboard pianist, via silky jazz songs, game shows and silent Culturaldiscos.highlights were never far away, especially in our final stop at Nuremberg, another beautifully rebuilt medieval city with everything inside its thick walls appearing intact. It was an intellectual hub of the Renaissance in the early 1500s, where Dürer revolutionised painting and Copernicus published his sun-centred model of the planets.
It had been a hot few days, peaking at 35C, but nothing the air con – and a few cold beers – couldn’t cope with. And when the rain sent us scurrying for the coach, it was torrential.
GETTING THERE Tui River Cruises offers 10 Main voyages in 2023 including the seven-night Bavarian Discovery 2: Oktoberfest cruise departing October 22, 2023, from £1,079 per person, based on two sharing, including flights, transfers, wine with meals, £120 per person towards excursions, port taxes, tips and service charges. Find out more or book at tui.co.uk water to clear the lowest bridges as we joined the Main-Danube canal. We had entered beer territory, and at Forchheim our excursion included beer tasting in the ‘cellar wood’, with 23 beer gardens built in the forest around the hillside caves used to keep beer cool over the centuries.
Of course, the city is infamous as the starting point for the destruction that was wrought by the Second World War, and a trip to the rally grounds reveals the now-dilapidated site where Hitler whipped hundreds of thousands of people into a Thefrenzy.buildings were constructed in haste by architects who had clearly – unlike us – spent little time gazing at the reflection of those supposedly eternal edifices in the water, to realise just how easily their image dissolves in a gust of wind. Get more river cruise tips and advice at cruise-international.com
PLAN YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY WIN A LUXURY WEEKEND INJERSEY MICHELIN-STARREDWITHDININGFORTWO EXPLORE THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS IN STYLE A MUST-READ GUIDE FOR YOUR FIRST RIVER CRUISE River + FORCE ofNATURE ATUL KOCHHAR RECIPES ■ FAMILY CRUISES PARIS IN SPRING ■ NORTHERN LIGHTS 01_CRI_MAY_JUN_22_OFC_OPTIONS_V9.indd 1 MARCH/APRIL 2022 | £5.25 PLAN YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY NOW MARCH/APRIL NILEFind inspiration in ancientEgypt as Agatha Christie’s 9 7 7 1 7 5 8 2 3 2 0 4 3 0 2cruise-international.com SHIVI RAMOUTAR Cruising the Caribbean John SErgeantI SAW Martin Luther King jrGIVE ‘I have a dream’ speech Sail to theSUN Saturday Kitchen chef shares her mostcolourful Caribbean recipes for spring■ ANTARCTICA ■ BEST NO-FLY CRUISES 18/02/2022 16:14 WELLNESS SUMMER 2022 | £5.25PLAN YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY NOW WIN LEGENDSBROADCASTINGCRUISETONORWAY’SFJORDSONAMBASSADORCRUISELINE 9 7 7 1 7 5 8 2 3 2 0 4 3 0 4cruise-international.com The hott с t dс tinations forsumm er sun + Summer SPECIAL RAIL AND SAIL ■ NEW SHIPS ■ UPGRADE YOUR CRUISE NINA WADIA ■ CINQUE TERRE ■ SUMMER EXPEDITIONS 01_CRI_SUMMER_22_OFC_FINAL_DP.indd 1 19/05/2022 14:51 PER£3.56JUSTISSUE 1 YEAR FOR £24.95 SUBSCRIBE TODAY WE’LL HELP YOU PLAN YOUR NEXT CRUISE HOLIDAY SAVING32% FREE delivery to your home Receive each new issue BEFORE it reaches the shops INCLUDES FREE Cruise Planner 2023* Online www.chelseamagazines.com/CCRUAU22 Phone +44 (0) 1858 438 749 quoting CCRUAU22 Direct Debit available in the UK only. Special overseas and UK credit card rates also available. *Applies to UK orders only
Bottom row, from left: Junior Suite, NH Market;Villa;VeneziaCollectionMuranoRialto sfogliatelle pastries; the sun rises over St Mark’s Square
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V isits to Venice tend to go two ways: either it’s your first time in the floating city and you head straight for the big sights, milling around in St Mark’s Square or joining the (long) queue to peek inside the Doge’s Palace, unable to resist the lure of those much talked-about attractions. Or you try to outsmart the other tourists, making a beeline for the backstreets to soak up the rarefied atmosphere of the city’s lesser-seen spots or stop at tiny, tucked-away bars serving cicchetti – the Venetian equivalent of tapas – to in-the-know Italians. With changes to the way cruise visitors come to Venice – last year, larger ships were banned from sailing down the main Giudecca Canal, plus the city is set to levy a charge of €3-€10 for day-trippers starting from January 16, 2023 – it would be easy to forget its many merits. But whether it’s your first visit or your 50th, there’s always something new to see here. What to do There’s absolutely nothing wrong with being a bit touristy in Venice. Everyone strolls the banks of the Grand Canal, taking selfies with the Bridge of Sighs in the background – so called because it was the last route prisoners took from the palace to the prison – or ducking inside the unsuspecting entrance of the grand This tourist hotspot has a love-hate relationship with cruise ships, but there’s still nowhere quite like it, finds Katie McGonagle
Hotel Danieli. Provided you skip the corny gondola rides or notoriously overpriced cafes lining St Mark’s Square, it won’t matter if you stare open-mouthed with the rest of them. You won’t see all of Venice in a day, but from a starting point in St Mark’s Square, follow signs via the shopping streets of the Mercerie to the Rialto Bridge to see the famous food market in full swing. Along the way, pause to admire carnival masks in shop windows or crunch on crispy shell-shaped pastry sfogliatelle stu ed with sweet pistachio paste. Cross the bridge to the San Polo district and make your way through its narrow lanes towards the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, whose rather plain Venetian Gothic façade hides a wealth of treasures inside. Not least of these is the great Assumption of the Virgin by Titian, which dominates the altar, along with a triptych of Madonna with Child and Saints by Bellini, making the €3 entry fee an absolute steal.
VENICE City guide
CITY GUIDE 77CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 |
The list of cruise lines calling at Venice is a who’s who of international cruising, though it’s worth looking closely at where they dock: following the rule change in the Giudecca Canal, most have switched to Ravenna, Trieste or Venice’s commercial port of Marghera. Small ships such as Emerald Azzurra, which held its christening ceremony in the city, are still permitted to sail along the famous waterway.
If you’re spending a few days pre or post-cruise, then it’s even more worthwhile to master local transport and escape Venice proper for a day or more exploring the other islands in the lagoon.
Visit the Museo del Vetro for insight into how the island’s world-leading expertise in glass-making put it on the map, or go behind the scenes at one of the factories to watch a master craftsman at work – Ars Cenedese is a good, family-run option.
There’s no shortage of good spots to stop for a bite to eat in Venice, but Al Pesador Osteria is notable for its fantastic location and traditional cicchetti menu. At six pieces for €18 it’s not the cheapest, but the creamy cod, tomato-stewed octopus and anchovy-stu ed courgette flowers are delicious, and if you nab a table by the
Main image: Grand Canal Top fromrow,left: Bridge of Sighs; the city’s vibrant colour Muranoglassblowingpalette;onIsland; Madonna with Child and Saints; shopping Muranojewelleryhand-madeforin
canal to watch the gondolas going past, it’s a sublime spot. For a sit-down meal that won’t break the bank, Antico Pignolo is surprisingly good for a location so close to St Mark’s Square, with a pleasant ambience and a reassuring number of locals among its customers on any given evening. Getting there
For more city guides, go to cruise-international.com
Murano, home of glass-blowing, is like a relaxed version of Venice where you’ll still get the novelties of a city on the water without as many crowds.
GREEN/IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ADISA/ARTMARIE/CINEUNO/DEEPGETTYPICTURES: BLUECINEMA/ALPHOTOGRAPHIC/TANUKIPHOTO/TUNARTRAUSCHER/DIETMAR
Murano is also a quieter spot to stay if you want modern accommodation and more space than the historic centre allows. NH Collection Venezia Murano Villa opened in late 2021 in the former Fornace de Majo glassworks, and shows its heritage via exposed concrete and abundant artworks. It’s even better than its four-star rating suggests, with plenty of attention to detail, spacious, well-appointed rooms and lovely lagoon views (from €200 per night including breakfast, plus €3.60 city tax, nh-hotels.com).
Where to eat
What to see Another district worth spending time in is the historically Jewish ghetto Cannaregio, where a guide can explain the maze of side-streets and the troubling stories that lie behind them. Better yet, if you are confident about finding your way around via the well-signposted water buses, pick up an unlimited day pass for €21 (pre-book at veneziaunica.it for better prices in advance) and explore independently.
Nearing
Follow in the Frenchman’s footsteps on a small-ship sailing to the Mediterranean isles of Corsica and Elba, writes Sara Macefield
NAPOLEON
CORSICA & ELBA
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Around the horseshoe-shaped bay sit rows of handsome pastel-hued merchant houses, lined up like soldiers standing to attention alongside hulking stone walls built to defend the city by its Italian founders, the all-powerful Medici family of Florence.
Much of this voyage is devoted to the rugged French isle of Corsica and its intimate resorts, set off the main cruising routes. We moor close by, making it easy to wander off the ship at will to explore independently, especially in the sleepy seaside town of L’Ile Rousse with its small market and stone streets bustling with boutiques and cafes. Yet such rustic simplicity is the antithesis of our first call at the billionaire playground of Monte Carlo, where Star Clipper rubs shoulders with swanky multi-millionpound mega yachts and their champagne-quaffing owners, This clockwisepage,fromabove: Porto Azzurro, Elba; artisan fair, L’Ile Rousse; Star Clipper; Old Town, Nice
80 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 A s we sweep into Portoferraio, Elba’s striking capital, guarded by such imposing fortresses that Admiral Lord Nelson branded this the safest harbour in the world, I can’t help thinking that I’d rather like to be exiled here.
But this pocket-sized Mediterranean isle, just off the coast of Tuscany, is arguably most famous as the place where Napoleon Bonaparte was banished in disgrace in 1814. His exile lasted just 10 months after the military mastermind gave his British overseers the slip, escaping on a tall ship to a hero’s welcome in Paris, where he temporarily regained his crown before eventually being defeated by British troops at the Battle of Waterloo. Like the French emperor, we are also aboard a square rigger, though arriving with rather more panache during a week-long sailing from Cannes on the four-masted barquentine Star Clipper
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Above: Casino de Monte MonacoCarlo,
MOST
Mercedes, BMWs and nearly every other status marque you can think of. Wealth and opulence flow from every street, where swanky apartment blocks and grande dame hotels sit shoulder to shoulder, and the windows of designer boutiques are resplendent with the latest haute fashions that, crucially, do not have price tags.
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CORSICA & ELBA
Thankfully, for mere mortals like us, the view is free and makes the most incredible backdrop for an evening cocktail soiree on the deck of Star Clipper with the ship’s officers. As dusk falls, our impending departure unleashes a burst of activity among the crew, as winches whine with the strain of unfurling vast flapping sails to a backtrack of creaking ropes and purring pulleys. Every sailaway is accompanied by the stirring notes of Vangelis’s Conquest of Paradise, which makes this windin-your-hair occasion even more evocative, but there are so many other atmospheric moments too. who look as though they have just sailed off the set of a James Bond movie. The walk from the marina to the statuesque casino, resplendent in the belle époque style that reflects this principality’s reputation for glitz and glamour, is perfect for people-watching with glossy, groomed young things posing and preening at waterside cocktail bars. Car spotting is even more entertaining as we admire convoys of gleaming Ferraris gliding past with the distinctive heavy growl of their engines, though it’s soon obvious these are 10 a penny, along with a procession of top-flight
THANKFULLY, FOR MERE MORTALS LIKE US, THE VIEW IS FREE AND MAKES THE INCREDIBLE BACKDROP
NETS SOON BECOMES A FAVOURITE PASTIME
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CORSICA & ELBA LYING
There are just a handful of us, led by our willowy instructor Idi, and I am the sole beginner, but do my best to master the seemingly impossible positions. Having turned up with the intention of trying just one session, the irresistible lapping of the waves and gently billowing sails makes for the most memorable of experiences and has me hooked for the rest of the week. Star Clipper holds up to 170 guests, but there are only 74 on our cruise with an international mix of Brits, Australians and Americans, and a few French and German guests.
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Rising early and stepping out onto the freshly hosed teak decks before everyone else awakens is another pinch-me moment, and a perfect setting for the daily pre-breakfast yoga classes that are a special feature on this voyage.
fromClockwiseabove: Bonifacio, Corsica; relaxing on the ship’s sea,Mediterraneanhousesbowsprit;abovetheBonifacio IN THE BOWSPRIT
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followed each evening by five-course feasts with tangy salads, velvety soups succeeded by prime cuts, lobster and fresh fish.
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That was the age my twin girls were on their first Star Clippers cruise some years ago. Now aged 19, they are more interested in lazing around the two small pools and posing for Insta shots at the ship’s prow, while looking out for Lyingdolphins.inthebowsprit nets, just a couple of metres above the waves, becomes one of our favourite pastimes and during a particularly magical evening we are rewarded with perfect views of a huge shoal of giant yellowfin tuna coursing through the inky depths directly below us.
Life on board revolves around the Tropical Bar, the hub of the ship’s social scene where a crew talent show and fashion parade, teamed with feel-good disco nights, spice up the house-party ambience.
With its line-up of waterfront restaurants, the fashionable resort of Bonifacio is just as mouth-watering and becomes one of our favourite stops thanks to the contrast of its chi-chi marina and maze of stone streets in the Old Town, carved from the rocky cliffs that lead up to the ninth-century citadel.
This fromclockwisepage,above:
On arriving at the island’s capital, Ajaccio, Star Clipper
IN THE LIGHT AND AIRY DINING ROOM, WE TUCK INTO SUMPTUOUS BUFFET LUNCHES
Onboard dining; flag of allPlaceofandindry,hangingCorsicaouttomooredboatstheharbourastatueNapoleonond’Austerlitz,Ajaccio,Corsica
The light and airy dining room, decorated in the nautical style of varnished wood and gleaming brass that runs throughout the ship, is where we tuck into sumptuous buffet lunches, sometimes Italian and Asian themed. They are
Most guests are older, and because we’re out of school holidays there aren’t many families either – plus this trip is generally better suited to guests over eight years old.
It’s hot work walking to the top, but we’re rewarded with views to Sardinia just over seven miles away, its proximity lending a feel of Italian chic to this medieval enclave, which is renowned as Corsica’s oldest town.
CORSICA & ELBA IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/NAEBLYS/GETTYPICTURES: VALLENARIPHOTOPROFI30/HELOVI/FLAVIO
turns heads as we dock next to P&O Cruises’ ship Azura, which towers above our small sailing ship like a huge monolith. We even spot some passengers taking pictures of our traditional vessel from the deck.
The views are exquisite and as I amble through the Italianate gardens, where Napoleon is said to have spent most of his days, I wonder if he ever regretted leaving this captivating island in such haste, never to return.
GETTING THERE A seven-night Star Clippers sailing from Cannes to Civitavecchia (Rome), including calls at Monaco and the Corsican ports of L’Ile Rousse, Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Bastia, plus Portoferraio on Elba, departs May 13, 2023. It costs from £2,039 per person, including flights. Find out more at starclippers.co.uk Read more about history and culture in the Med at cruise-international.com
The winding narrow streets of Ajaccio’s Old Town beckon, offering welcome shade from the burning heat of the midday sun, while the irrepressible spirit of Napoleon rears its head because his birthplace and early home, Maison Bonaparte, is here. Now a museum, it offers a fascinating insight into his family life, though it could do with having information boards in English. Despite the lack of translation, and thanks to our rusty French, we learn that the young future emperor stayed here only until he was nine years old before leaving to be schooled in France, returning for the final time when he was 30. Just 15 years later, France’s military leader was forced into a humiliating abdication and exiled to the nearby isle of Elba where he divided his time in relative freedom between two residences, now museums, with his official base being Villa dei Mulini in Portoferraio.
I’m determined to see where he spent his time, and follow the steep streets to the villa’s hilltop setting on a craggy promontory overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Above: Palazzina dei Mulini, nowPortoferraio,Napoleonresidenceofficialofinisamuseum
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CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM86 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 From attentive waiters to self-service selections, there is an afternoon tea to suit any sailor. Marc Shoffman selects some of the best so all you have to decide is what to put on your scone –jam first or cream? AFTERNOON tea at se a
OR TRY Virgin Voyages
Princess Cruises
STUDIOSGREYWOLFPICTURES: From top: Godiva treats served on the Queen Mary 2; Virgin Voyages’ Sip lounge;champagneViking’sWintergarden
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BEST FOR SERVICE Cunard Trust a British cruise line to do afternoon tea properly. Cunard passengers can enjoy finger sandwiches, pastries, cakes, chocolate and a choice of plain or fruit scones served on fine china crockery at 3.30pm every day in the stately Queens Room. A pianist or harpist entertains as white-gloved waiters serve and top up your treats as part of the standardCunardpackage.alsooffers a chocolatethemed afternoon tea on the Queen Mary 2 that includes Godiva treats such as pralines and white chocolate key lime scones. It’s served between 2pm and 5pm on sea days for £14.95 per person in the Godiva Chocolate Café at Sir Samuel’s.
BEST FOR COUPLES
OR TRY
Viking Afternoon tea can sometimes taste better without children running around. One adult-only cruise option is on Viking’s ocean ships, where guests can enjoy afternoon tea in TheIt’sWintergarden.aScandinavian-designed setting so expect chic furniture and tidy shelves while you tuck into sandwiches, tartlets, scones and macarons presented on a tiered pastry cart. Serving times vary depending on the sailing, but are between 3pm and 5pm for an hour.
Similar to Cunard, Princess Cruises’ white-gloved waiters serve premium teas, coffee, cookies, sandwiches, cakes and scones with jam and cream. Afternoon tea is served daily at 3.30pm in the main dining room on its standard fare. Attentive servers regularly top up your treats as many times as you, or indeed your stomach, will allow.
The Sip champagne lounge serves afternoon tea for $19 per person or $35 with a glass of bubbly from 1pm to 4pm every day. It includes loose leaf teas, quirky sandwiches, two plain scones with jam and cream and five small treats, including a slice of rainbow cake.
Afternoon teadoesn’t onlyhave to be about traditional scones From top: Tea in princessesCruises;MarellaSailCruises’MSCTopLounge;Disney
BEST EXCLUSIVEFOR AREAS
OR TRY Celebrity Cruises
CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM AFTERNOON TEA 88 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Afternoon tea is available for suiteclass guests in The Retreat lounge, part of the high-end resort-style area on Celebrity Cruises’ ships, from 3.30pm to 4.30pm every day, serving premium tea, scones, tarts, cakes, pastries, fruit and sandwiches. It can also be served in your suite if you want more privacy.
BEST DIFFERENTSOMETHINGFOR Marella Cruises
Afternoon tea doesn’t only have to be about traditional scones. Marella’s ships have a West End-themed tea served in the late afternoon with dishes inspired by famous musicals such as the On My Own petit choux and I Like to be in America New York cheesecake. The location depends on the ship but it costs £14.95 per person and is served in a speciality dining room decorated in show posters and memorabilia, where you can choose from six teas and a cocktail.
MSC Cruises MSC Cruises’ premium Yacht Club passengers can experience a traditional afternoon tea as they admire the sweeping sea views in its luxury panoramic Top Sail Lounge. Served by butlers between 3.30pm and 4.30pm every day as part of the Yacht Club package, it includes a three-tiered stand with sweet treats, scones and sandwiches as well as champagne and alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks, with plenty of top-ups.
OR TRY Disney Cruise Line Disney holds a Royal Tea for little princes and princesses on its ships. You’ll have to really love your children though, as it costs $220 for kids and $69 for adults. It’s served at 3pm, and each young guest is sprinkled with pixie dust on entry to the Royal Court with their own crown. Lady Chamomile and Chef Brule entertain with stories and songs as they serve pastries and sandwiches. Little ones also get gifts, and there may even be a visit from a Disney princess.
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Most cruises cater for dietary requirements such as vegetarian or gluten-free options for afternoon tea. Fred Olsen, however, has its own dedicated vegan menu as part of its traditional premium afternoon tea, including basil and avocado on white bread, and scones with plant-based cream. Served on sea days, it costs £11.99 per person. OR TRY Saga Cruises
Over-50s cruise line Saga provides regular themed afternoon teas in the buffet and has its own gluten-free and diabetic sections. You may also find Victoria sponges, pavlova or even a chocolate fountain.
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You can get your afternoon tea fix in many cruise buffets at no extra cost. P&O Cruises serves afternoon tea from 3.45pm in the main dining room and buffet on all its ships, offering finger sandwiches, cakes, pastries and freshly baked scones with jam and cream. A more formal afternoon tea is served in P&O Cruises’ Epicurean Restaurant on Azura , Britannia , Iona and Ventura and at The Ocean Grill on Arcadia , costing £17.50 per person on board or £14 if you book ahead.
OR TRY Royal InternationalCaribbean
Left: Service PrincessonCruises’ Sapphire Princess This page: Afternoon tea on P&O Cruises’ Britannia, designed by master patissier Eric Lanlard BEST FOR VEGANS Fred Olsen Cruise Lines
BEST FOR THE BUFFET P&O Cruises
There isn’t a traditional tea on Royal Caribbean but it does have an afternoon snack session between 4pm and 5pm, where you will find tasty chocolate cake and treats.
Most cruises cater for dietaryrequirements suchas vegetarian orgluten-free
PIECE OF cake Great British Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain offers inspiration for any day of the week with new cookbook Nadiya’s Everyday Baking Tip This cake is simple, sweet and perfect for when you are out and about 92 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM| SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
l While the cake is baking, make the syrup. Squeeze the juice of the lime and lemon into a small pan and add the sugar and the water. Cut the orange into thin slices and add to the syrup mixture. Pop onto the heat, bring to the boil and leave to simmer on the lowest heat for 20 minutes.
INGREDIENTS For the cake: 200g fine semolina 25g 2190ml125gextra80ml175g40gcoconutdesiccatedplainflourcastersugaroliveoil,plusforgreasingGreekyoghurtwholemilktspbakingpowder
RECIPES
METHOD l Preheat the oven to 200C (fan 180C, gas 6). Lightly grease a small roasting dish.
l Put the feta cheese into the dish and drizzle generously with the oil. Sprinkle over the thyme, oregano and chilli. Cover with foil and bake for 25 minutes. For the last five minutes of baking, add the crackers to a tray and warm through.
l Take the foil off the feta and drizzle over the honey. Get your warm crackers out and spread with the salty, sweet, herby feta. Mop up that oil with warm crusty bread.
TERRYCHRISPICTURES: ORANGE SEMOLINA CAKE MAKES 9 SQUARES
l Start by putting all the dry cake ingredients in a bowl: the semolina, coconut, flour and sugar. Mix well.
l Now, pour the oil, yoghurt, milk and orange blossom water into the dry ingredients and mix till you have an even cake batter. Leave covered for about 40 minutes to allow the semolina and coconut to soak up that liquid.
Uncover the bowl, add the baking powder and bicarb and mix in well. Spoon the mixture into the prepared cake tin and spread into a thin, even layer. Bake for 35 minutes, till a skewer comes out clean.
l As soon as the cake is out of the oven, poke holes all over with a skewer. Slowly drizzle the syrup right onto the hot cake. Spread the slices of orange all over.
2 tsp 170ml50gjuicejuiceForof½blossomorangewatertspbicarbonatesodathesyrup:of1limeof1lemoncastersugarwaterlargeorange
Except for me, not one soul in my house likes feta, so I make this recipe all for myself and my sisters. Baked with herbs and chilli, and served with a drizzle of honey, this feta is salty, sweet, spicy and herby, making for the most delicious warm dip that really does everything.
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METHOD l Lightly grease and line a 20cm square tin, ideally loose-bottomed if you have one.
BAKED FETA WITH CHILLI, HONEY AND THYME SERVES 6
My mum doesn’t much like cake, but she loves semolina, so this is one cake that I make for her all the time. The semolina means it’s dense and the perfect vehicle for the sweet orange blossom syrup that it drinks up when hot and baked.
2 x 200g packets of feta cheese 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for greasing a large sprig of fresh lemon thyme, leaves picked 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp chilli flakes 200g salted crisp crackers, warmed in the bread,sliceshoney,ovenfordrizzlingofcrustytoserve
INGREDIENTS
l Preheat the oven to 190C (fan 170C, gas 5).
l Leave to cool in the tin for 30 minutes. Take out, slice, and this sweet, zesty semolina cake is ready to eat.
l Give it a quick mix and make a well in the centre. Add the beaten eggs and the milk and mix till the dough starts to come together. If you’re using a stand mixer, attach a dough hook and start to bring the dough together.
It’s traditional in Holland to have a slice of white bread buttered and sprinkled – and when I say sprinkled, I mean doused in chocolate sprinkles. Take me to Holland! They had me at bread and butter, let alone sprinkles. So, this is my all-in-one version: a rolled bread dough with butter and coloured sprinkles swirled through, then plaited and baked. It’s the kind of bake that pleases not only the baker in me, but also the eightyear-old in me!
13Forextrasprinkles,140g100gbutter,unsaltedsoftenedcastersugarrainbowplus20gforthetopthesyrup:tbspgoldensyruptbsphotwater evenly and push into the dough.
l Preheat the oven to 200C (fan 180C, gas 6). Bake the loaf in the oven for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 170C (fan 150C, gas 3) and continue to bake for another 25 minutes. Take out and leave for 15 minutes before removing from the tin. l Make the syrup glaze by mixing the golden syrup and water. Brush the loaf all over with the sticky glaze and scatter over the extra sprinkles. Once the loaf has cooled down, slice and it’s ready to eat.
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l Have the dough rectangle with one of the long edges closest to you. Spread the sprinkle butter all over the rectangle, leaving an edge of 1cm all the way around. Take the rest of the sprinkles and spread all over
l Make the sprinkle butter by mixing the soft butter with the sugar, along with half the sprinkles.
l Start by lightly greasing and lining the inside of a 900g loaf tin. l Now, let’s make the dough by placing the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl if you are making it by hand. Add the yeast and sugar to one side of the flour and the salt to the other.
For the dough: 275g plain flour, plus extra for 5gdustingfast-action yeast 20g caster sugar ¼ tsp salt 2 medium eggs, 50mlbeatenwhole milk 80g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing For the filling: 100g
l Now, roll up the dough like a Swiss roll, starting at the long edge. Make sure to roll tight. Lift the roll and place it in front of you vertically, seam-side down. Using a sharp knife, start at the top of the roll and cut it in half vertically all the way down, all the way through. So now you should have two long pieces of dough. Turn them out so you can see stripes of dough and sprinkle butter.
METHOD
l Make a large cross using the two dough strips. Criss-cross the whole thing like a two-strand plait till you reach the end. Gently lift and pop into the prepared tin, making sure to tuck the ends into the base. Cover with a piece of greased clingfilm and leave to prove in a warm place till doubled in size.
RECIPES
Tip Nobody is stopping you from adding more butter and sprinkles at the end – in fact, I recommendhighlyit!
INGREDIENTS
Nadiya Hussain was the winner of the Great British Bake Off in 2015, and has since gone on to present several BBC2 series and publish a number of cookbooks. Recipes are taken from her latest cookbook, Nadiya’s Everyday Baking, published by Penguin Michael Joseph and available in shops priced at £25.
SPRINKLE BUTTER BABKA LOAF SERVES 8-10
l Slowly start adding the butter in clumps till fully incorporated. Knead on a high speed for six minutes. If you are kneading by hand, use as little flour as possible and knead for about 10 minutes till the dough is smooth, shiny and stretchy. Lightly flour the work surface and roll out the dough to a rectangle of 20 x 30cm.
COOLER IN SUMMER
“For the first time in 10 years we do not have to close the door to the conservatory when it rains, as the noise is minimal and before I found it difficult to hear the TV over the loudness of the rain on the old roof.”
PANELSFREE *Quote CRUISE0922Ref
USABLE ALL YEAR ROUND “The conservatory is now used throughout all seasons of the year and is far more comfortable to sit in whatever the weather outside.”
“There is no doubt that the conservatory is much warmer than previously, and no, the room is not darker either!”
David Birch, Chichester
QUIETER IN BAD WEATHER
Mr & Mrs Barber, Wells Terms and Conditions apply. Green Space UK, Unit 8 BH24 1PD, Registered No. 8542786, as shown on FCA authorisation, trading as Green Space UK, is a credit broker and is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Applies to orders of 8 panels or more. Valid until the end of November. Not to be used in conjunction with any other marketing offer 2
Anne Bird, Bristol
“What a difference a day makes as the saying goes, and yes, that’s all it took to install.”
“You could have fried an egg on the table in there in the summer, I now look upon the conservatory as a new room. It is quiet, restful and cosy.”
Transform your conservatory in just one day Enjoy your conservatory all year round with insulated roof panels Get a price for your conservatory roof 0800 08 03 www.greenspaceconservatories.co.uk202C O N S E R V A T O R Y R O O F S 8k CLIENTSHAPPY
“This is the best thing we have done in this house. Used to run with condensation and now zero.”
Mr & Mrs Barber, Wells WARMER IN WINTER
Karen Thomas, Chippenham
Carol Doyle, Surrey ENERGY EFFICIENT
“I’ve already turned the underfloor heating down. Lovely job guys, thank you!”
Mr & Mrs Bailey-Webb, Warsash
Mr & Mrs Gibson, Portishead MOULD & CONDENSATION
INSTALLED IN 1 DAY “What a difference a day makes as the saying goes, and yes, that’s all it took to install.”
Got a question about your next cruise holiday? Get an answer from our expert panel by emailing info@cruise-international.com
It’s unusual for guests taking a round-trip voyage not to see the lights in January. In fact, we are so confident we have introduced a Northern Lights Promise, so they can get a free cruise next winter if the lights don’t appear. Check whether your cruise line offers something similar.
ASK THE EXPERTS 96 | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM ADVICE
While we can’t second-guess Mother Nature, January is one of the key months to see the Northern Lights. Not only that, but the sun goes through an 11-year cycle, with the strongest occurrences appearing the closer we get to the solar maximum. As we are just a couple of years away, we’re expecting great displays over the next few winters. Being on a ship, away from light pollution on land, means you’re more likely to see them and you should sail under the aurora oval, where they are most likely to occur.
Matthew Valentine, head of UK sales, Havila Voyages
Andy UKAssociation),LinesofmanagingHarmer,directorClia(CruiseInternational&Ireland
A cruise is the perfect way to explore Asia for the first time. Itineraries often allow you to visit multiple countries – and cruise lines take the hassle out of exploring by offering shore excursions that have been chosen to showcase the best a destination has to offer. Overland travel can often be time-consuming or expensive here, so a cruise is a great choice. Port availability, vaccination and testing requirements continue to open up, but they vary by country. Book with a Clia member travel agent and they’ll recommend the best cruise and keep you updated on arrangements. Agents can also advise on pre-travel visas, and while on board your cruise line will provide guidance to ensure you can access destinations smoothly and speedily. We have always wanted to explore Asia, especially Japan, but are ports back open now and will we have to spend time filling in forms about testing, vaccinations, visas etc?
No matter what, you’ll have a fantastic time with lots of memorable experiences. My husband and I are going on a Northern Lights cruise in Norway in January, but he is worried about what we’ll do if it’s cloudy and we don’t see the lights. How often does that happen, and what can we do if we’re the unlucky ones?
James GoRiverCruiseHill, Christmas markets start by the last week in November and run through to Christmas Eve, with the bigger ones reopening over the new year. River cruises typically feature the Rhine and Danube – but some now venture to the Main, Moselle and even the Rhone or Lower Danube. Despite there being pent-up demand from the past two Covid-affected winters, there is still availability across all budgets and cruise lengths. Just as regular river cruises range from £1,500 per person per week up to £5,000 or more, there’s a Christmas market cruise to meet all budgets. Some will include drinks, free Wi-Fi, speciality dining – others will offer less – but a common theme is the focus on excursions to the markets and their festive offerings.
My friends and I are looking for a holiday in the run-up to the festive season, and we thought of a Christmas markets cruise – but have we left it too late to book?
We have a daughter aged 13, and we’d love to take her on a ship where there will be plenty for her to do. Which cruise lines should be on our list as the top choice for teenagers?
Julie Peasgood, TV presenter and regular contributor to Cruise International There are a number of major cruise lines with outstanding teen clubs as well as adjoining cabins or family suites to give you all privacy – but a lot depends on your budget, choice of destination and your daughter’s tastes. If she is very active and thrives on ziplines, waterslides, rollercoasters and rock walls, then consider Royal Caribbean (pictured) and Carnival Cruise Line, followed by NCL and MSC Cruises. They all offer teen-friendly activities with dance parties, video games and great food options.
ISSUENEXT...CHRISTMASMARKETSGREEKANTIQUITIESARCTICEXPEDITIONPLUS Win a holiday for two CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM ON SALE October 28
Princess Cruises also rates well for multigenerational cruises but with an atmosphere that’s more laid-back than thrill-seeking, and it’s worth checking out Celebrity, P&O Cruises, the newer Disney ships and A-Rosa river cruises too.
BAARSSENOLEKSANDR/FOKKELUTSENKO
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James Martin as you have a great group of people and crew on board. I didn’t realise how spectacular the boats were, along with the attention to detail and the standard of service that the crew offer. Coupled with that, there’s the ability to wander around the locations along the rivers in France, from vineyards to markets. Bordeaux and SaintÉmilion, which the cruise is visiting, are places where I used to go not just for food, but also for wine. Recently I was given (insets):fromClockwiseabove Wine shrine,FushimiSaint-Émilion;cheeseandshop,InariKyoto; Bon Voyage on the Dordogne
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For more celebrity interviews, go to cruiseinternational.com membership of the Jurade de Saint-Émilion [a historic fraternity dedicated to preserving and promoting the region’s wines]. I can’t wait to get back as I first worked there in the kitchens aged 12. James Martin will join an eight-day river cruise on luxury ship Bon Voyage, sailing round-trip from Bordeaux via the Médoc wine route, Cadillac, Saint-Émilion, and including a Q&A, live cooking demonstration and gala dinner. The cruise departs on April 2, 2023, starting at £2,999 per person JamesMartinBordeaux).(ts.tripsmiths.com/JamesMartin’sSaturdayMorningisbroadcastonITV1,andcookbookPotatoissettobereleasedinNovember. SETNEARLYFIRE TO A
I hadn’t been to Ireland until recently and didn’t realise how stunning the south coast is, so I’d definitely return there, and I would like to go to Japan. I think that is on every chef’s wish list. We’ve definitely had filming.tooprobablytheBordeauxtoIthefilmingmomentsmemorablesomearoundworld.nearlysetfireavineyardin–IthinkmainreasonwasthatwehadmuchtodrinkbeforeTheotheronethat stands out is when two members of the crew got left behind in Texas and we didn’t realise until we were in California! Before this series I’d only really done cruises by sea, but I prefer rivers because it’s more intimate – serving just over 100 people and not 6,000, you can offer a much more personal touch. This is my second time [on a river cruise] and certainly will not be my last,
I recently came back from the south of France – I fell in love with the country when I was a young kid and it is a special place for me, not just in my career but my holidays too. Having said that, I love a lot of Europe, particularly the north – Sweden or Norway – as the area is spectacular and unique.
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CRUISE-INTERNATIONAL.COM CELEBRITY TRAVELS | SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
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The TV chef’s lifelong love affair with France will see him return to host a foodie river cruise through Bordeaux Food is the top priority for me when I travel. I like to visit food markets in the area, and sample whatever beverage the region has to offer too. I always take a phone and my iPad to keep a record of places where I’ve eaten and stayed for mates when I return.
THE ART OF MAKING YOU FEEL AT HOME We deliver exquisite service that’s professional, courteous, and informative. Our approach is never stuffy but creates an atmosphere of relaxed luxury. THE WIDEST VIEW IN THE WHOLE WIDE WORLD No other fleet of river cruise ships offers you a view of the world like Avalon Suite Ships. There’s nothing between you and the view. THE AVALON TOUCH IN EVERY DETAIL SAVE UP TO £1,100 PER PERSON PLUS FLIGHTS FOR £99 Call 0330 808 7451 VisitVisitavalonwaterways.co.ukyourTravelAgent THE DINING OPTIONS YOU CRAVE À la carte, four-course dinners, Continental breakfasts, or al fresco lunch at the Sky Grill. We always set the table using fresh, quality ingredients prepared by expert chefs. CRUISE YOUR WAY Borrow a bicycle from the ship for a picnic on shore or glide through the Rhine Gorge in a kayak. Whichever way you wish to spend your day, you’ll find activities that speak to you. Save up to £1,100 per person on 2023 cruises. Saving based on Magnificent Europe departing 30 June 2023. Book selected 2023 Rhine and Danube cruises and receive return flights for £99 per person. Offer is valid for new bookings deposited between 1/09/22 – 31/10/22 for travel commencing on selected dates in 2023. For full terms and conditions visit www.avalonwaterways.co.uk.
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