Zimmermann Purchasing Plan_Fashion Future

RESORTWEAR FOR RENTAL

MA Fashion Buying & Merchandising/ Purchasing Plan

LEE CHIAN TING

1.0 INTRODUCTION 2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW 2.1 THE IMPACT OF FAST FASHION 2.2 SINGLE-USE FASHION: RESORT WEAR 2.3 CONSUMER CONCERN & NEW BUSINESS MODEL: RENTAL

3.0 BUSINESS CONCEPT 3.1 RENTAL COLLECTION FOR RESORT WEAR 3.2 RESORT WEAR BRAND: ZIMMERMANN

4.0 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY 4.1 WHY RENTAL? 4.2 WHY RESORT WEAR?

5.0 THE MARKET ANALYSIS 5.1 FASHION RENTAL MARKET 5.2 CUSTOMER CONCERN IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION 5.3 RESORT WEAR MARKET

6.0 THE COMPETITORS 6.1 BRAND POSITIONING MAP 6.2 PRODUCT BY PRODUCT COMPARISON

CONTENT

6.3 COMPETITORS ANALYSIS 6.4 RESORT WEAR COMPETITORS

7.0 TREND ANALYSIS 7.1 RESORT WEAR TREND 7.2 THE COLOR AND PRINTS

8.0 THE RANGE 8.1 RANGE IDEA: NEW FEMININITY 8.2 RATIONALE

9.0 THE TECH PACK 10.0 THE CUSTOMERS 11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN 11.1 RAW MATERIAL 11.2 MANUFACTURING SUPPLIER 11.3 LABEL AND PACKAGING SUPPLIER

12.0 THE COSTING 12.1 ESTIMATE RETAIL SELLING PRICE 12.2 ESTIMATE RENTING PRICE 12.3 COST SHEET

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS 13.1 UNIT RATIO

13.2 BREAK-EVEN ANALYSIS 13.3 MONTH BY MONTH RENTAL PERIOD

14.0 CRITICAL PATH 15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION 115.1 HOW IT WORKS FOR ONLINE RENTAL? 15.2 FOCUS ON SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING & PROMOTION

16.0 END OF LIFE STRATEGY 16.1 THE CIRCULAR PROMISE OF RENTAL MODEL

17.0 LIMITATIONS 18.0 CONCLUSION 19.0 REFERENCES

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1.0 INTRODUCTION

More than 100 billion of new garments were manufactured each year and of all the clothing made, approximately 75% are sent to landfill by customers in a year (Wicker, 2016). This linear fashion model of purchasing, wearing and quickly discarding apparel negatively impacts people and the planet (Elizabeth and Deborah, 2019).

Overconsumption and a throwaway culture are responsible for this growing environment concern (Piscicelli et al., 2015). Fashion renting is considered as an alternative option to extend the product life while as well generating revenue for the industry (WRAP, 2011).

The project aims to talk about the future of fashion industry: Fashion Rental. By collaborative with Zimmermann, a well-known Australia resort wear brand, the project brings up a new concept of resort wear rental business. The idea starts from business opportunities, market analysis, current resort wear trend to the competitors, the ‘New Femininity’ rental collection and the supply chain. Finally, the project also digs into the costing section including break-even analysis and rent period as well as the end of life strategy.

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

2.1 THE IMPACT OF FAST FASHION People are constantly bombarded with the images of latest fashion trends on social media and are fed by the words of influencers and celebrities telling customers what should be wearing (CODO, 2019). Fast fashion industry keeps growing, the collections come and go with the season, always bringing customers fresh wave of trends that fit their appetites (Hughes, 2019). The industry is expected to manufacture 102 million tons of clothes and shoes and will be value ÂŁ2.6 trillion by 2030 at its current speed of growth (Segran, 2019). While this linear fashion model of purchasing, wearing and quickly discarding apparel negatively impacts people and the planet (Elizabeth and Deborah, 2019). 20 percent of global wastewater and 10 percent of global carbon emissions were yielded by the fashion industry which is more than all international flight and marine shipping.

M o r e o v e r, h u g e n u m b e r o f t e x t i l e s , a s t h e equivalent of one garbage truck, is landfilled and burned every second (Segran, 2019). The f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y, p r o d u c e s c l o t h e s t h a t r e q u i r e toxic chemicals, is considered as the second biggest polluter in the world, only after oil (UN environment, 2018). More actions form industries and customers should be tackled and done in order to slower these negative impacts

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

2.2 SINGLE-USE FASHION: RESORT WEAR According to a study by Censuswide for charity Barnardo's, customer is expected to spend more than ÂŁ 7 0 0 m i l l i o n o n n e w h o l i d a y c l o t h e s a n d b u y i n g 11 million items for their wardrobes that will only be worn once (Jessica, 2019). Resort wear is contributing to th e ri se o f si ngle- use fashion, m or e than 50 m illion o u t f i t s w i l l o n l y b e w o r n o n c e t h i s s u m m e r. T h i s might result from that more than half of customers considered purchasing new clothes for holiday added to the excitement of the build-up (Smithers, 2019).

Take the extremely low price, 1-pound, bikini released

by Missguided for example, this cheap as well as not design to last long product has led costumers to question the moral and environmental impact of fast fashion (WWD, 2019).

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

2.3 CONSUMER CONCERN &

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: RENTAL Consumers are increasingly aware of how their purchase i n f a s h i o n i t e m s w i l l i m p a c t t h e e n v i r o n m e n t ( B r e s l a u e r, 2019). Particularly, millennial and Gen Z are considered as generations who care about the production, materials and manufacturing conditions of the clothing. More than 35 percent of millennial and 36 percent of gen Z consumers say they pay more attention into searching apparel for themselves that are labeled as sustainable and environmentally friendly (Salfino, 2020). Driven by the consumer concern, fashion industries are becoming more aware of the need to be sustainable and socially conscious (Brown, 2010).

New business model, clothing rental, has become popular in recent years. Environmentally conscious and cash savvy consumers are gradually choosing to rent rather than purchase when they want a new outfit. The value of the apparel rental market is expected to be ÂŁ923m in the UK (Braithwaite, 2018). Not only can clothing rental concepts be a more environmentally friendly alternative to purchasing into fast fashion, but consumers can also save space in their wardrobe (Jenny, 2019). This business model could be seen as one of the desirable choices for customers who are conscious about environment impact and purchase sustainable items.

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2.0 BUSINESS OVERVIEW

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3.0 BUSINESS CONCEPT 12

3.1 RENTAL COLLECTION RESORT WEAR To reduce single-use fashion in summer season as well as to fulfill those environmental conscious customers but still desire a trendy look on their outfits, the business concept is to create a multi-functional resort-wear collection which go beyond seasons and only for rental.

Customers are able to rent a head to bottom resort wear with variety of choices and with high-quality material instead of buying a collection which will only be worn couple of times during the vacation season and then being disposed. The multi-functional clothing is design to be worn from white sandy beaches, long casual lunches to chilling bars and restaurants.

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3.0 BUSINESS CONCEPT

3.2 RESORT WEAR BRAND

Founder of Zimmermann: Nicky Zimmermann (left)& Simone Zimmermann (right)

Zimmermann is an iconic Australian brand found by sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann in Sydney in 1991 (Zimmermann, 2020a).

The core customer of Zimmermann is feminine woman who enjoys having fun with fashion. She purchases items that make her feel good and beautiful. Moreover, she has an eye for novel products and forms an emotional connection with the clothing she puts on (Samaha, 2016). The brand embodies a distinctive style where sophisticated femininity, a passion for detail and a love of colour a n d p r i n t i s a t t h e f o r e f r o n t o f b r a n d ’s a e s t h e t i c . I n i t s e a r l y evolution, Zimmermann witnessed a gap in the market and took a bold move of fusing fashion with swimwear and presented it to the world. This distinguish design immediately caught the fashion elite’s eyes, creating a new point of view in flattering, feminine and stylish swimwear. Thanks to the swimwear collections that brought Zimmermann to the international stage, it was also its optimistic, feminine and desirable collection across its ready-to-wear and resort wear that have driven the brand to greater global appeal.

There are currently 21 stores in Australia, 13 stores in US and they even expanded their reach to European countries include UK, France and Italy (Zimmermann, 2020a).

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3.0 BUSINESS CONCEPT

Zimmermann is considered as a suitable brand for this resort wear rental project owing to its well-known resort wear collections among celebrities and fashion elite and its sense of refined and fun elements which combined in each garment. The use of vibrant colors, flirty silhouettes and eye-catching details are perfect for holidays mood and perfect for those who loves to try on novel apparels but are not able to afford buying high price clothing.

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4.0 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY 16

4.0 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

4.1 WHY RENTAL? People have been fed up with the quality, the repetitiveness and the overwhelming number of items to select from, as well as the ethical cost of it. It is an opportunity for rental to convey a message that it is able to have all the joyful of fashion without having to purchase into the accumulative a n d d i s p o s a b l e n a t u r e o f f a s t f a s h i o n ( C o u r i e r, 2 0 1 9 ) .

According to Holmes, Business of Fashion (2019), ‘When options are limited, needs are temporary and sizing is tricky, are primary times for a customer to turn to clothing rental.’

A d d i t i o n a l l y, y o u n g c o n s u m e r s t e n d t o s p e n d m o r e o n experiences such as travel. While with the rise of social media, they are still connected to their friends and the boarder world even when on vacation. Research from Chase Bank stated that 97% millennial traveler post on social media while vacationing, with three in four posting d a i l y ( Ta m i s o n , 2 0 1 8 ) . O w i n g t o t h e i n c r e a s i n g l y n u m b e r of consumers seeking out things to lighten up their travel experience and how it looks on social platform to their followers, renting becomes an affordable way to own a fresh look on all occasions (Pinnock, 2019).

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4.0 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

4.2 WHY RESORT WEAR? In general, brands continuously bring out new styles each season to keep customer interest, but only particularly product can have a long life and remain to be profitable over a single season (Pinnock, 2019). Base on above statement, considering of the end of life of those unsold resort wear items each season, many of those would end up in landfill which caused considerably environment impact. Therefore, it is an opportunity to develop rental service on resort wear. Not only can this reduce waste of unsold items form companies and single use items form customers but create a way for customers to enjoy their vacations without spending large amount of money on trendy clothes and will soon be out of style within a few month (Berman, 2018).

In addition, resort wear is another opportunity to satisfy the global consumers who travel frequently as well as the demands of climate change where in many parts of the countries there is little or no winter nowadays (Dhillon, 2018).

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5.0 THE MARKET ANALYSIS 5.1 FASHION RENTAL MARKET As customer attitude toward ownership are changing and their sustainable mindset toward fashion are increasing, numbers of companies are now looking to tap into the sharing economy of the fashion industry. Following by the success of US-based Rent the Runway, the biggest rental fashion company which earn approximately ÂŁ80 million in r e v e n u e s p e r y e a r, t h e r e h a s b e e n a g r o w i n g n u m b e r o f business launching internationally in the fashion rental m a r k e t ( M i n t e l , 2 0 1 8 ) , G i r l M e e t s D r e s s , F r o n t R o w, M y Wardrobe HQ, for instance.

According to Mintel Report (2020) (figure 1), only 13% of consumer have experience renting fashion products while this increases to 20% of 16 to 24s and 24 percent of 25 to 44s. It is estimated that about 34% of young generation would be interested in renting fashion garments which highlight the potential for the rental market. Another research b y s h o p p i n g c e n t e r o w n e r We s t f i e l d ( 2 0 1 7 ) i n d i c a t e d t h a t the apparel rental market in UK has a potential value of ÂŁ923 million. The study also illustrated that a quarter of customer from London, majority aged 25 to 34 years old, stated that they would like to hire clothing.

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5.0 MARKET ANALYSIS

Figure 1: Renting Fashion Items (Online, Mintel, 2020)

Not only can hiring garments be a more sustainable alternative to buying into fast fashion, but customers can also save space in their wardrobe (Mintel, 2018). On the other aspect, the renting fashion offer customers more affordable price to access and try out designer brands as well as allow varieties of outfit options that can be post on social media.

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5.0 MARKET ANALYSIS

5.2 CUSTOMER CONCERN IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION I n f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y, t h e s h i f t t o n e w o w n e r s h i p m o d e l s i s r e s u l t f r o m g r o w i n g c o n s u m e r c r a v i n g f o r v a r i e t y, s u s t a i n a b i l i t y a n d a ff o r d a b i l i t y. ( I m r a n e t e l , 2 0 1 9 ) . A c c o r d i n g t o B r e s l a u e r ( 2 0 1 9 ) , customers are increasing concern about fashion in term of the environment impact. As the figure below shown, of the top-10 fastgrowing benefits and concern in fashion, more than half are relate to the environment. Furthermore, customers are especially interest in seeking out ways to limited waste by avoiding plastic or by buying from brands that have ensured zero-waste production.

Figure 2: What are

fashion consumers seeking out and

worrying about?

( O n l i n e , B r e s l a u e r, 2019)

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5.0 MARKET ANALYSIS

While more than half of the customers (52%) want the fashion industry to follow more sustainable practice, merely one third of them (29%) are willing to pay more for a sustainable base clothing (Forbes, 2019). The potential reasons that customers are not purchasing in sustainable fashion are due to the lack of choices of items, the price, consumers less information about the product and consumers are uncertain about the real benefit to the environment (Kuruppu,2018). Seeing from the research, customers are aware of both the motivation behind sustainable fashion and the cost behind it. To build a base of loyal in buying sustainable f a s h i o n , c o m p a n i e s s h o u l d m a k e e ff o r t t o r e d u c e e n v i r o n m e n t impact as well as figure out the suitable retail price and conduct ethical sourcing which show their commitment to transparency (Yeung, 2019).

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5.0 MARKET ANALYSIS

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5.0 MARKET ANALYSIS

5.3 RESORT WEAR MARKET The global swimwear market is

the beach and in the city (Smith,

currently worth £17.5 billion and

2015). Retailers like Zimmermann

the market value is expected to

and Lisa Marie Fernandez have

grow even further, to £23 billion,

witnessed the shift of the market

by 2025 (O’connell, 2019). US

and start developing resort wear

was the largest market in North

category that provide fully outfit

America, followed by the UK,

to customer for their vacations.

Germany, and China (Wightman,

N e t - a - P o r t e r, f o r i n s t a n c e , h a s

2018). While as the increased

launched its new vacation wear

mobility meaning customers

line, Jet-a-Porter and it is said that

travel more often, the swimwear

60% of beachwear category sales

category is growing beyond

come from clothing. Followed

bathing suits. This has given

by the growth of vacation wear

birth to a new type of holiday

category, the purchasing budget of

wear including items like cotton

this area has increased by 400%

dress, cover-ups, palazzo pants,

(O’connor, 2018).

beach hat that works both on

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS 26

6.1 BRAND POSITIONING MAP

6.0 THE COMPETITORS

(FIGURE3) BRAND POSITIONING MAP: ONLINE RENTAL RETAILER

(FIGURE4) BRAND POSITIONING MAP: ONLINE RESORTWEAR RETAILER

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS

6.2 COMPETITORS ANALYSIS ONLINE RENTAL RETAILERS

By benchmarking online fashion rental retailers in UK and US allows this project to identify a gap in UK online rental business and the average rental price point. Below illustrate few common points found in 6 major online rental businesses in UK and US.

All of the online rental companies offer free return shipping and free dry-cleaning services while three of them offer online personal stylist services (Front Row, My Wardrobe HQ & Fashion Pass) U K o n l i n e r e n t a l r e t a i l e r s ( F r o n t R o w, H U R R & M y Wardrobe HQ) have fewer size options and there is less category of resort wear compare to US online retailers.

Customers will need a minimum of 4 days for renting items Most of the renting items are luxury and high-end segment, the retail price point is between £85 and £560 and target on 25-40 female customers

LIKE FOR LIKE PRODUCT COMPARASION: ONLINE RENTAL RETAILERS 28

6.0 THE COMPETITORS

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS

LIKE FOR LIKE PRODUCT COMPARASION: ONLINE RESORTWEAR RETAILERS

6.3 COMPETITORS ANALYSIS -

ONLINE RESORTWEAR RETAILERS According to the brand positioning map (Figure4), Zimmermann positions itself as a luxury brand. The price point is ranging from £530 to £1600 which is similar to Australian -based luxury resort retailer, Camilla. Aside from following the trend from season to season, Zimmermann has always focused on forging their own path and stay true to their authentic. Their collections retain feminine, playful and always play with colors and prints. This is one of the reasons which made the brand stand out from its competitors (Samaha, 2016).

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS

Camilla, Three Grace London and Chloe are seen as Zimmermann’s major competitors. Camilla represents the Australian summer lifestyle through bold and colorful prints. A main key to consider Camilla as Zimmermann competitor is that both of them aim to convey the relaxed, warm and vivid image of Australian lifestyle and these two brands both having lines from ready-to-wear, swim wear to r e s o r t w e a r. A l t h o u g h t h e s t y l e i s distinguished from Zimmerman, the customers base and the price point are similar, with target market being women aged from 27 to 37 and with retail price from £400 to £1000.

Chloé is considerate as another competitor of Zimmermann base on the aesthetic style.

Both brands are known for their free-spirited femininity and elegance design as well as they both convey a romantic and soft image. Chloé focus mainly on its accessories range, while Zimmermann put more effort on its resort and swimwear range. This made it less compatible to Zimmermann due to the less choice for the resort wear collection.

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6.0 THE COMPETITORS

Three Grace London and Cult Gaia are considered as competitors of Zimmermann due to their similar p r o d u c t r a n g e a n d s t y l e w h i c h a l l o f t h e m o ff e r a wide variety of resort wear options and target on women around 25 to 35 years old. While both Three Grace London and Cult Gaia have relatively lower price point ranging from ÂŁ300 to ÂŁ700 this could affect customers choice when picking up same style item.

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7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

7.1 RESORT WEAR TREND In contrast to the two major fashion seasons, spring-summer and fall-winter, resort collection which presented from May to July is about fantasy and tells a more lively and relaxing stories (Prestige, 2020; Vogue, 2019). According to WGSN as well as the primary research of resort 2020 collections from luxury brands and fashion shows, below illustrates four major trends and styles for resort wear.

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7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

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7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

RESORT 2020 1. Long White Maxi Dress Long white maxi dress made of linen, poplin and eyelet lace are the trend in 2021. The fresh and adorable look, making it an ideal piece to pack for summer vacation (Prestige, 2020).

VALENTINO

ALBERTA FERRETTI

G

NORDS

BOTTEGA VENETA

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ETRO

JONATHAN SIMKHAI

EVER

7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

GABRIELA HEARST

RDSTORM

CAROLINA HERRERA

CHLOÉ

CHRISTIAN DIOR

2. Vacation Jumpsuits Jumpsuit continue to lead the trend with a more casual and comfort style.

Its various range of silhouettes allow it to fit on all body shapes and sizes.

A linen or cotton jumpsuit will be an essential piece for offering breathable and light coverage from the sun (FQ, 2020). According to WGSN (2019a), a sleeveless jumpsuit with hemline details and the plunged V-neck is a playful and flattering piece that carries the customer from the city to the beach.

The sleeveless jumpsuits rose by 7% YoY and hold 22% of the jumpsuit mix across the S/S 20 runway.

ERLANE

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7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

RESORT 2020 3. Pleat-Front Trousers Pleating was a major construction technique applied by designers across the S/S 20 runways (WGSN, 2019a). Pleatfront trousers with high-rise and paper bag–waist look have come back to the trend from the 80s. Brands such as Giorgio Armani and Colovos offer a more relaxed look on the silhouette for resort 2020 (Vogue, 2019).

GIORGIO ARMANI

MIU MIU

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JOHANNA ORTIZ

STELLA MACARTNEY

REDEMPTION

C

7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

COLOVOS

FRENDI

GANNI

ISABEL MARANT

4. Puffed Sleeves Puffy sleeves increased by 57% at online retail during SS19 and continued their growth into A/W19/20, growing a further 142% in the UK (WGSN, 2019b). Puffy sleeves trend in 2020 can be seen in Miu Miu and Johanna Ortiz resort 2020 collections as well as street style in UK. They are generally dress up with d r e s s e s , b l o u s e s a n d s o m e t i m e s c r o p p e d . T h e p u ff y s l e e v e s u s u a l l y c o m b i n e d w i t h b o w s a n d r u ff l e s w h i c h m a d e a m o r e romantic look (The Fashion Folks, 2020).

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

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7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

7.2 THE COLOR AND PRINTS

Optic White

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SandStone

Soap Nut

Kata Tjuta

7.0 TREND ANALYSIS

Brown tones is expected to continue at mass level for S/S 21, with the neutrals from A/W 20/21 developing as warmer sun-kiss tones. These tones have been gaining power as a fashion hue, and are already a trend at luxury. It will work best for fashion collections targeted at Millennials and the over 35 years old market (WGSN, 2019c).

Summer paisleys is forecasted to move to a linear styling with a more refined palette in S/S21. The combination of paisley elements and fanciful florals create a casual vacation style that goes beyond the seasons. The print is suit for summer vacation drop and free-spirited lifestyle customers (WGSN, 2019d).

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NEW FEMININITY

8.1 RANGE IDEA The Zimmermann ‘New Femininity’ resort wear rental collection consists of five pieces of vacation wear essential including puff sleeves cropped top, front-pleat trousers, long white dress, sundress and a jumpsuit. The resort 2021 rental range will launch on the middle of March until the middle of October in UK and sell through online official website.

8.0 THE RANGE 42

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8.0 THE RANGE

RANGE IDEA: NEW FEMININITY The initial inspiration for the rental collection drives from the growing concern of sustainable fashion among customers and the large number of singleuse garments being wasted during the summer season. The rental collection is able to fulfill both the environmental conscious customers’ mindset and their desires of putting on trendy outfits when on vacation.

The idea ‘New Femininity’ came from WGSN (2019e) swimwear style trend S/S21. The main key to this trend is to play with proportion, creating exaggerated silhouettes that work well for beachto-bar looks. For example, a flattering wrap style can be contrast with puffed sleeves and ruffle hems. The new femininity trend not only follows the concept of Zimmermann which is optimistic a n d s o p h isti cate d femi n i ni ty but cr eates a bolder and more exaggerated image for those women who seek for playful, unique and Instagram-friendly outfits on vacation.

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8.0 THE RANGE

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8.0 THE RANGE

8.2 RATIONALE Choice of garment The range consists of a puff sleeves

garment is also based on the

top, pleat-front trousers, long white

primary research on competitor

dress, sundress and a jumpsuit.

analysis. This project found that

These items have been selected as

the majority of the resort wear

they are the core pieces of resort

retailers have these items in

2020 collections base on the research

their resort range.

on the trend analysis. The choice of

Choice of colour or prints The choose of brown tone color is

classic, minimalist and encourage

based on WGSN S/S 21 women's

styling with wider trends.

swimwear colour trend. Classic color

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keeps the longevity of garments.

The choose of paisley print is

As a range for hire, the collection

b a s e d o n W G S N S / S 2 1 w o m e n ’s

is expected to last over a season.

key prints and graphics. The linear

Therefore, Zimmermann chooses not

paisley elements create a causal

to follow the trendiest color but stay

and summer vacation style.

8.0 THE RANGE

Choice of size range To d e c i d e w h i c h s i z e a r e g o i n g

vast majority (82%) of British

to become more popular than

women are not considered plus-

others, the sizing of this range is

size, research still state that there

based on the competitors sizing

is a significant demand for it, with

for the similar items and the Mintel

about 18% purchasing clothing in

(2019) womenswear report. The

a size 16 or above (Mintel, 2019).

competitors’ average clothing

Therefore, with the consideration of

size (Figure, 3) are from 8 to

the plus size m ar ket, the r ange w i l l

1 4 . M o r e o v e r, t h e f i g u r e 4 a l s o

o ff e r s i z e r a n g e f r o m 8 - 1 6 i n o r d e r

illustrates that the majority of the

to satisfy wider custom er s.

customers base could be fit between these sizes (Figure 4). While the

Brand

Sizing (UK)

Zimmermann

8-14

Camilla

8-16

Three Grace London

6-14

ChloĂŠ

6-14

Cult Gaia

4-10

Figure 3: Competitors sizing range

Figure 4: Clothing sizes worn by womenswear consumers (Mintel, 2019: Online)

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9.0 THE TECH PACK

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9.0 THE TECK PACK Br a n d n a me: Z i mme rma n n D a t e : 0 5/0 4 /2 0 2 0

Pr oduct Type: Puffed Sleeves Cr opped Top

S tyl e Num ber : ZRR21001

Season: Resor t 2021

D e s c r i p t i on : P u ffed sl ee ve s, cr opped, V neck line, r uffles hem C o l o u r - Ways:

Pr int: Paisley

Fabr ic: M ain: 100% linen Lining: 100% cotton Sh a p e : bo x fi t

Country of manufacture: China

Sk e t c h V neck: 22cm

Length:38cm

Sleeve: 56cm

Bust: 84cm Waist: 68cm

• S i z e R a ng e (U K ): 8, 1 0 , 1 2 , 14, 16 • M e a s u r e men ts (cm) S i z e L e n g th B u st Waist Sleeve Cuff( M ax) 8 3 8 84 68 56 6.5 1 0

3 9

8 9

72

57

7

1 2

4 0

9 4

76

58

7.5

1 4

4 1

9 9

80

59

8

1 6 4 2 10 4 86 60 8.5 The measursment is based on the grading rules (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014) and Zimmermann cropped top size details.

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9.0 THE TECK PACK B r a n d n a m e: Z i mme rma n n D a t e : 0 5 /0 4 /2 0 2 0

Pr oduct Type: Fr ont- Pleat Tr ouser s

S tyl e Num ber : ZRR21002

Season: Resor t 2021

D e s c r i p t io n : Front-Pleat, high rised, paper bag–waist, two pockets, hidden front zipper, hidden wood button, leather belt C o l o u r - Ways:

Fabr ic: M ain: 100% linen Lining: 100% cotton

S h a p e : b ox fi t

Country of manufacture: China

Sketch Waist: 75cm Zipper: 15cm Pocket: 7cm Back Rise: 40.5cm

Front Rise: 36.5cm

Hip: 94cm

Inside Leg: 67cm

Leg Opening: 58cm

• S i z e R a n ge (U K ): 8, 1 0 , 1 2 , 14, 16 • M e a s u r e m e n ts (cm) Size

Front rise Back rise Waist

Hip

Inside leg

Leg Opening

8 36.5 40.5 75 94 67 58 10

37

41

78

96

67

59

12 37.5 41.5 81 98 67 60 14 38 42 84 100 67 61 16 38.5 42.5 87 102 67 62 The measursment is based on the grading rules (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014) and Zimmermann cropped top size details.

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9.0 THE TECK PACK B r a n d n a m e: Z i mme rma n n D a t e : 0 5 /0 4 /2 0 2 0

Pr oduct Type: Puffed Sleeves Sundr ess

S tyl e N um ber : ZRR21003

Season: Resor t 2 021

D e s c r i p t i on : p u ffe d sl ee ve s, V neck line, paisley em br oider y details C o l o u r - Ways:

Pr int/Em br oider y: ( Paisley) Fabr ic: M ain: 100% linen Lining: 100% cotton

F a b r i c : M a i n: 1 0 0 % co tto n S h a p e : b ox fi t

Country of manufacture: China

Sketch

• S i z e R a n g e (U K ): 8, 1 0 , 1 2 , 1 4, 16 • M e a s u r e men ts (cm)

Size Length Shoulder width Bust Waist Hip Sleeve length 8 86.5 35 90 72 92 24 10 87

36

94

76

94

25

12 87.5 37 98 80 96 26 14 88 38 102 84 98 27 16 88.5 39 108 66 100 28 The measursment is based on the grading rules (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014) and Zimmermann cropped top size details.

51

9.0 THE TECK PACK B r a n d n a me: Z i mme rma n n D a t e : 0 5/0 4 /2 0 2 0

Pr oduct Type: Long W hite Dr ess

S tyl e Num ber : ZRR21004

Season: Resor t 2021

D e s c r i p t i on : p u ffe d sl ee ve s, V neck line, paisley em br oider y details C o l o u r - Ways:

Pr int/Em br oider y: ( Paisley) Fabr ic: M ain: 100% cotton Lining: 100% cotton

S h a p e : bo x fi t

Country of manufacture: China

Sketch

• S i z e R a n g e (U K ): 8, 1 0 , 1 2 , 1 4, 16 • M e a s u r e m en ts (cm)

Sleeve Shoulder

Bust Waist Hip Length Width 8 110 38 35 90 72 92 40 Size

Length

Top

10 112 39 36 94 76 94 42 12 114 40 37 98 80 96 44 14 116 41 38 102 84 98 46 16 118 42 39 108 88 100 48 The measursment is based on the grading rules (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014) and Zimmermann cropped top size details.

52

9.0 THE TECK PACK B r a n d n a me: Z i mme rma n n D a t e : 0 5/0 4 /2 0 2 0

Pr oduct Type: Sleeveless Ruffle Jum ps ui t

S tyl e Num ber : ZRR21005

Season: Resor t 2 021

D e s c r i p t ion : S l ee ve l ess, V neck line, nacked back, r uffle back design C o l o u r - Ways:

Pr int: Paisley

Fabr ic: M ain: 100% linen Lining: 100% cotton S h a p e : bo x fi t

Country of manufacture: China

Sketch

• S i z e R a n g e (U K ): 8, 1 0 , 1 2 , 1 4 , 16 • M e a s u r e m ents (cm) Siz e L e n g t h

To p

B ust

Waist

Hip

Insideleg Legopeni ng

8 146 40 92 72 92 75 83 10 148 42 96 76 94 75 86 12 150 44 100 82 96 75 89 14 152 46 104 88 98 75 92 16 154 48 110 94 100 75 95 The measursment is based on the grading rules (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014) and Zimmermann cropped top size details.

53

10.0 THE CUSTOMERS

‘ ’ A s s a t i s f y i n g c u s t o m e r ’s n e e d s a n d w a n t s i s c e n t r a l t o t h e m a r k e t i n g concept, it is important for retailers to understand the behaviour and attitudes of their customers in order to make effective marketing decisions.

This can be achieved by categorising customers into groups with similar characteristics using market segmentation” Goworek & McGoldrick (2015).

54

10.0 THE CUSTOMERS

Hiring is an attractive choice for price-sensitive consumers, consumers who want to wear brands they couldn’t usually purchase into and those who desire fresh look for each event or occasion they participate in. The reasons for customers to p u r c h ase i nto o cca si on wear categor y ar e due to the higher pr ic e a n d f ew er cha n ce to w ea r on them ( Retail Insight, 2019) .

Z i m m e rma n n ‘ N ew F emi n inity’ r ental r esor t wear collection tar gets on women in UK who concern in social and environment issues and with enough disposable money to travel (Reid, 2020). They are women who view travel as a high priority in life, like to have fun in fashion and spend more time on social media. The target age group for Zimmermann rental collections will be Millennials (25-35) who are recognized to be more environmental conscious and appears to be the best demographic to target for the fashion r e n t a l bu si ne ss (R e ta i l In sight, 2019) .

55

10.0 THE CUSTOMERS

Customer Profile 1 G e n d e r: F emal e Age: 28 L o c a t i o n : Man ch e ste r O c c u p a t i o n : P u b l i c R el ati on Executive Social Grade: Acorn Category 2: Rising Prosperity/ Group E: Career C l i m b e r s / Type 1 9 : F i rst ti me buyer s in sm all, m oder n hom es M a r i t a l St atu s: In a rel ati on sh i p F a m i l y C y cle : N o ch i l d ren H o u s e Si z e: 2 b e d roo ms ap a rtm ent Leisure Activities: Traveling, shopping, yoga, broadcast, style m a g a z i n e s , coo ki ng , o n l i n e d i s cussion for um , r eading blogs, film s

L i f e s t y l e D e s c rip tio n s : She is a public relation executive w h o r e c e n tl y bo u g h t a sma l l flat in M a n c h e ste r a n d l i ves w i th her p a r t n e r. S h e a l w a y s p u r c h a s e s f o r a r e a s o n an d con ce rns ab out sustainable fashion. The quality and the brand value are the top concerns for her when buying.

She enjoys making plans and scheduling for her vacations in budget. She has a unique taste of style and loves to try on new things.

56

10.0 THE CUSTOMERS

Customer Profile 2 N a m e : Ta m a r a Ka l i n i c @tamara (83 9 k follower s) Ge n de r: F e m a l e Age: 30 Loc a ti o n : L o n d o n Oc c u pa t i o n : So c i a l Me d i a In fl ue n ce r s So c i a l G ra d e : A corn G ro u p D : C i ty Sophisticates/ Type 16 : M e t r o p o l i t a n P rofe ssi on a l s M a r i ta l S t a t u s : Si n g l e Fa m i l y C y c l e : N o C hi l d ren H o us e S i z e : 1 - b ed roo m ap a rtme n t Leisure Activities: Online shopping, travel p h o t o g r a p h y, t r a v e l i n g , h a n g i n g o u t w i t h f r i e n d s , cinema, music festival, weight training, posting on socia l m e d i a

Li fe s ty l e D e s c ri p tio n s : She is an Instagram influencer with over 839k followers, digitally connected, living in a world filled with fashion, trend and social media. She is a trend setter who is passion on keeping on trend in fash io n a n d a l w a y s l oo ki ng for fresh look for differ ent occa s ion s .

She has an eye of for unexpected things and she buys things that made her feel good and beautiful.

She is a traveler who enjoy posting and sharing her experiences on social media and communicating with he r f o llo w e r s .

57

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN 58

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

11.1 RAW MATERIAL According to Zimmermann’s official website, its sourcing strategy focus on environmental protection and e c o - e f f i c i e n t l y. T h e b r a n d a i m s t o reduce water footprint by using digital printing on the majority of the garments and using sustainable fabrics on swimwear ranges. This process lessens approximately 60% of water com par ing to scr een pr inting and over 48% of the water used in the m anufactur e pr ocess ar e r ecycled (Zimmermann, 2020b). Therefore, in order to follow Zimmermann’s brand value, the rental range will look on raw materials which is more sustainable and less harmful to the envir onm ent.

59

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

RAW MATERIAL High quality and natural fabric are the key of Zimmermann brand value, with cotton, linen and silk consisting of 75% of their collections (Zimmermann, 2 0 2 0 b ) . H e n ce , al l of the gar m ents for the r ental r esor t range will be made of 100% cotton and 100% linen s o u r c i n g f r o m S h a o x i n g A n z e Te x t i l e C o . , L t d . a n d Shijiazhuang Runfeng Textile Co., Itd, respectively. Both cotton and linen are one of the commonly used fabrics for resort wear according to the competitor analysis among different resort wear brands. Cotton is soft, breathable and absorbable while linen is lightweight and is woven loosely which allows heat to escape from t h e b o d y as w e l l as i t re q u ir es little pesticides to gr ow.

Both natural fabrics allow customer to keep cool and dry in hot weather (Mulberrys, 2019; Hodakel, 2020).

The range will as well apply digital printed in order to m i n i m i z e th e d yi ng p roce ss pollution.

60

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Cotton dress raw material Price: $17.94 per meter Material: 100% cotton Weight: 135gsm Width: 134cm Density:86 x 76 Linen raw material Price: $15.78 per meter Material: 100% linen Weight: 165gsm Width: 280cm

61

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

11.2 MANUFACTURING SUPPLIER In order to reach brand value and manufacture high end garments with intricate embellishments and customd e s i g n e d tri ms, Ya roa d C l othing Co., Ltd will be the m ost suitable manufacturing supplier for Zimmermann rental range.

Ya r o a d C l o t h i n g C o m p a n y, l o c a t e d i n G u a n g z h o u , i s a n o r i g i n a l e q u i p m e n t m a n u f a c t u r e r, w h i c h t h e y p r o d u c e garments manufacture service based on clients’ designs.

The company specializes in high quality garment production with one to one full customed service and 1 0 0 % q u a l i t y a s s u r a n c e . A d d i t i o n a l l y, Ya r o a d o f f e r s small quantity order which is perfect for Zimmermann r e n t a l c o l l e c t i o n . Ya r o a d c l o t h i n g m a n u f a c t u r i n g f a c t o r y i s w e l l e q u i pp e d w i th 18 0 0 sets of sewing m achines, 250 automatic sewing and knitted machines, more than 20 s p e c i a l i ze faci l i ti e s an d over 700 skilled wor ker s ( Yar oad, 2020).

62

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Information

24

Years of Experience

5000m

2

Production Base

700+

Skilled W orkers

15

Production Lines

6000k

Successful Products

Certificated

All of the Yaroad’s factory meet the requirements of social audits such as BSCI, ISO9001, WRAP and Sedex.

Clients of Yaroad Custom Clothing Manufacturer

63

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

11.3 LABEL AND PACKAGING SUPPLIER T h e r a ng e w i l l a l so sel ect Yar oad Com pany as its label s u p p l i e r. E a c h p r o d u c t f r o m t h e r e n t a l r a n g e w i l l h a v e two woven labels and no hang tags in order to reduce the single used paper waste. To compensate for the lack o f s p a ce to provi de i n fo rmation to custom er s, additional i n f o r m ati on l i ke the cari n g instr uctions could be access v i a Q R co d e .

Furthermore, according to Just-style article (2020), ‘the i n t e g r a ti on of bl ockch a i n technology has an im por tant r ole in helping fashion brands reshape supply chain sustainability and enhance transparency across their businesses.’ By scanning the QR code, not only can the customers obtain basic garment information, but understand the entire production process. Therefore, the range will apply blockchain technology to achieve higher transparency and i m p r o v e th e cu sto mer-b ran d r elationship.

64

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

30 mm

8 ZRR21001 100% Cotto n Designed in Australia

80 mm

Made in Chin a

70 mm

65 mm

8

25 mm RENTAL COLLECTIONS

55 mm

ZIMMERMANN woven labels

65

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Zimmermann has launched their Social and Environmental Sustainability goals for 2020 against placing single use plastic within B2B packaging. In the first stage, 33% of reduction in plastic use per order has been seen and the company is currently working on 100% of recycled packaging (Zimmermann, 2 0 2 0 c ).

Followed

by

Zimmermann’s

s u s t a i na b i l i ty g o a l , a l l of the packaging

66

11.0 THE SUPPLY CHAIN

be tw ee n facto ri e s and stor es will im plem ent 100% of r ecy c l ed plastic and the garments will be packaged within a reusable paper box and wrapped with recycled paper when ship to customers. Xiamen V Plus Packaging Co., Ltd. is selected as the packaging supplier for the rental range due to its reasonable prices and responsible practice as well as they eco -fri en d l y p ri n ti ng appr oach and pr oducts with r ecycled and F S C pa p e r. * FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) paper: Paper which has b e e n h a r v e s t a n d p r o d u c e i n a r e s p o n s i b l e m a n n e r. ( M M N , 20 1 4 )

35 mm 200 mm

156 mm

ZIMMERMANN Reuseable Packaging Box

67

12.0 THE COSTING

68

12.0 THE COSTING

12.1 ESTIMATE RETAIL SELLING PRICE Zimmermann considers itself

brands is set between 400 to

a s a l u xu ry fa sh i on bran d which

800 pounds.

they aim to compete with brands such as Chloé and Miu Miu

The setting of retail selling

( S u l l i v a n, 20 1 7 ).

price for Zimmermann’s rental range is based on

Figure 6 refers to the entire

c o m p e t i t o r ’s a n a l y s i s a n d t h e

luxury product range on multi-

luxury price range (figure 7).

brand retailers and the current

By benchmarking relatively

collection sold on own-brand

competitors, the selling price

s i t e s ( Vo g u e B u s i n e s s , 2 0 1 9 ) .

will set higher than Camilla

The figure also illustrates that

but lower than Cholé.

the price range for the luxury

Figure 6: Luxury Product Price Range (Online, Vogue Business, 2019)

69

12.0 THE COSTING

12.2 ESTIMATE RENTING PRICE The clothing renting retailers normally set the rent price based on 25% of the retail price. As a standard, the renting retailers will have to rent a garment 6 times before they turn profitable. In the other words, they will need 4 times to cover the cost of product and another 2 t i m e s t o c o v e r e x p e n s e s l i k e l a u n d r y, shipping and stocking (Images Business of Fashion, 2019) .

In reference to like-for-like product comparison, the paper found out that m ost of the r enting r etailer s will hav e to r ent their gar m ents 6 to 8 tim es befor e i t cover s the actual r etail pr ice. Ther efor e, the rental price for Zimmermann will set as retail price divided by 7 and the r enting dur ation will last for 5 days.

70

12.0 THE COSTING

12.3 COST SHEET T he c osting of m ater ials and tr im s ar e based o n A l i b a b a , E t s y, M a d e i n C h i n a o f f i c i a l w eb site pr ice. ( shown in the r efer ence list) T he gar m ents ar e expor t fr om Fuzhou, China a n d i mpor t to Southam pton, UK. T h e f r e i g h t i s b a s e d o n Wo r l d F r e i g h t R a t e s o ffi ci al website. ( Wor ld Fr eight Rates, 2020) The labor and overheads cost are based on t h e c o s t i n g t h e o r y f r o m ( J e ff r e y a n d E v a n s , 2 0 11 ).

The direct material (50%); The direct labor (20 %) ; The over head ( 30%) T h e d u t y a n d c l e a r a n c e a r e b a s e d o n ( G O V. U K , 2020) .

T he duty for clothes to im por t fr om far shor e co u n tr y ( China) is 12% and the clear ance for a l l th e good im por t to UK is 1.5%.

T he ROE ( r ate of exchange) is based on (X E Cur r ency, 2020) . GBP = 1.23 USD

71

12.0 THE COSTING

Style: Print Puffed Sleeves Top Materials Print Linen (main fabric) Cotton Lining

Components (50%)

Ruffle Lace

Retail Price

£450.00

Consumption/Qty Unit Price 1.15m/piece 1.15m/piece 1.3m/ 1 piece

Margin 68%

Max Buying Price £144 Max

Max Price

Quantity: 9

Cost per Piece

16.78

19.29

8.88

10.21

2.5

3.25

2

0.24

3

2.04

0.12

0.24

0.09

0.09

2.6

2.6

Trims Elastic Band (2.5cm) Elastic Band (4cm) Woven Lables wrapping tissue paper Packaging (paper box)

0.12m/ 2 piece 0.68m/ 1 piece 30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces 50X70cm/1 piece 1 pack

37.96 Make/ Labour(cuttubg/ Labour sewing)/Manufacturing cost (20%)

34.54

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

49.81 TOTAL

4.8 Freight Based on Shipments from ……

1.23 ROE USD to GBP

4.8

Duty& Based on research through 12%+1.5%=13.5% Clearanc customs Clearance add e 1.5%

£117.29

Total Costs Total Costs Margin Margin Selling Price:

Selling Price:

72

122.31

£117.02 £117.29 73.99% 73.93% £450.00 £450.00

Image

Imag

12.0 THE COSTING

Max

Maximum Factory price

Landed BP revert back to US$

Maximum Factory price

LandedFirst BP revert £144.00 removeback D & to C US$ devide by 1.135

ax

mage

£126.

£144.00

First £126.90 remove D &Change C devide byUSD 1.135 in to x 1.23

£126.90

$156.

£126.90

Change in to USD x 1.23 the freight @4.8/pc $156.00 Remove

$156.00

151.2

$156.00

Remove the freight @4.8/pc

151.2

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory fromPlanned Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Costs 151.2

MAX Planned Costs Materials151.2 50% Materials Labour Overheads

50% Labour

75.6

75.6 20%

30.24

20% 30.24 30% Overheads

45.36

30%

45.36

NEW FEMININITY 73

12.0 THE COSTING

Style: Print Puffed Sleeves Top Materials Print Linen (main fabric) Cotton Lining

Components (50%)

Ruffle Lace

Retail Price

£450.00

Consumption/Qty Unit Price 1.15m/piece 1.15m/piece 1.3m/ 1 piece

Margin 68%

Max Buying Price £144 Max

Max Price

Quantity: 9

Cost per Piece

16.78

19.29

8.88

10.21

2.5

3.25

2

0.24

3

2.04

0.12

0.24

0.09

0.09

2.6

2.6

Trims Elastic Band (2.5cm) Elastic Band (4cm) Woven Lables wrapping tissue paper Packaging (paper box)

0.12m/ 2 piece 0.68m/ 1 piece 30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces 50X70cm/1 piece 1 pack

37.96 Make/ Labour(cuttubg/ Labour sewing)/Manufacturing cost (20%)

34.54

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

49.81 TOTAL

4.8 Freight Based on Shipments from ……

1.23 ROE USD to GBP

4.8

Duty& Based on research through 12%+1.5%=13.5% Clearanc customs Clearance add e 1.5%

Total Costs Margin Selling Price: 74

122.31

£117.29

£117.29 73.93% £450.00

Image

Ima

12.0 THE COSTING

Max

Maximum Factory price

Landed BP revert back to US$

Maximum Factory price

Max

Landed BP revert back to US$ £144.00 First remove D & C devide by 1.135

mage

£144.00

First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £126.90 Change in to USD x 1.23

£126.90

£126.90

Change in to USD x 1.23 $156.00 Remove the freight @4.8/pc

$156.00

$156.00

Remove the freight @4.8/pc

151.2

£126.9

$156.0 151.2

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory fromPlanned Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Costs 151.2

MAX Planned Costs 151.2 Materials 50%

75.6

Materials

50% 75.6 Labour 20%

30.24

Labour

20% 30.24 Overheads 30%

45.36

Overheads

30%

45.36

NEW FEMININITY 75

12.0 THE COSTING

Style: Front Pleat Trousers

Retail Price

£420.00

Margin 68% Max Price

Materials

Consumption/Qty Unit Price

Cost per Piece

Linen (main fabric)

1.95m/piece

15.78

30.77

Cotton Lining

1.95m/piece

8.88

17.31

0.95m/ 4.95

4.95

Components (50%)

Trims Leather Belt

0.95m/1 piece

Front Zippers

1 piece

0.1

0.1

Wood Buttoms

1 piece

0.04

0.04

Woven Lables

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 56.11

Make/ Labour (20%)

Labour(cuttubg/ sewing)/Manufacturing cost

28.17

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

42.26 TOTAL

Freight

Based on Shipments from ……

4.8

ROE

USD to GBP

4.8

1.23

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Total Costs Margin Selling Price:

76

126.54

£121.20

£121.20 71.14% £420.00

Max Buying Price £134.4 Ma Quantity: 50 Image

Ima

12.0 THE COSTING Maximum Factory price

Landed BP revert back to US$

Maximum Factory price

Max

Landed BP revert back to US$ £134.40 First remove D & C devide by 1.135

mage

£134.40

First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £51.72 Change in to USD x 1.23

£118.40

£51.72

Change in to USD x 1.23 $145.63 Remove the freight @4.8/pc

$145.63

$145.63

Remove the freight @4.8/pc

140.85

£118.40 $145.63 140.85

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs MAX Planned Costs 140.85 Materials 50%

140.85 70.43

Materials

50% 70.43 Labour 20%

28.17

Labour

20% 28.17 Overheads 30%

42.26

Overheads

30%

42.26

NEW FEMININITY 77

12.0 THE COSTING

Style: Sundress

Retail Price

£590.00

Margin 68% Max Price

Materials

Consumption/Qty

Cotton (main fabric)

Components (50%)

Cotton Lining Embroidery

Unit Price

Cost per Piece

1.95m/piece

17.94

34.98

1.95m/piece

8.88

17.31

7000 stitches

6

Trims Elastic Band (4cm)

1.2m/ 1 piece

3

3.6

Woven Lables

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 64.83

Make/ Labour (20%)

Labour(cuttubg/ sewing)/Manufacturing cost

39.96

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

59.94 TOTAL

Freight

4.8 Based on Shipments from ……

ROE

USD to GBP

4.8

1.23

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Total Costs Margin Selling Price:

78

164.73

£156.44

£156.44 73.49% £590.00

Max Buying Price £188.8 Max Quantity: 32

12.0 THE COSTING

Maximum Factory price Maximum Factory price

Landed BP revert back to US$ Landed BP revert back to US$

ax

£188.80

£188.80 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £166.34

£166.34

£166.34

£166.34 Change in to USD x 1.23 Change in to USD x 1.23

$204.59

$204.59

$204.59

$204.59 Remove the freight @4.8/pc Remove the freight @4.8/pc

199.79

199.79

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs MAX Planned Costs 199.79

199.79

Materials

Materials 50% 50% 99.90

99.90

Labour

Labour 20% 20% 39.96

39.96

Overheads

Overheads 30% 30% 59.94

59.94

NEW FEMININITY 79

12.0 THE COSTING

Style:Print Sundress

Retail Price

£590.00

Margin 68% Max Price

Consumption/Qty

Print Linen (main fabric)

1.97m/piece

16.78

30.05

1.97m/piece

8.88

17.49

Components (50%)

Embroidery

7000 stitches

6

Trims Elastic Band (4cm)

1.2m/ 1 piece

Woven Lables

3

3.6

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 60.08

Make/ Labour (20%)

Labour(cuttubg/ sewing)/Manufacturing cost

39.96

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

59.94 TOTAL

Freight

4.8 Based on Shipments from ……

ROE

USD to GBP

1.23

Total Costs Margin Selling Price:

80

159.98 4.8

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Quantity: 13

Cost per Piece Image

Materials

Cotton Lining

Unit Price

Max Buying Price £188.8 Ma

£152.05

£152.05 74.23% £590.00

Imag

12.0 THE COSTING

Maximum Factory price

Max

mage

Landed BP revert back to US$ £188.80 First remove D & C devide by 1.135

£166.34

£166.34 Change in to USD x 1.23

$204.59

$204.59 Remove the freight @4.8/pc

199.79

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs

199.79

Materials

50%

99.90

Labour

20%

39.96

Overheads

30%

59.94

NEW FEMININITY 81

12.0 THE COSTING

Components (50%)

Style: Long White Dress

Retail Price

£720.00 Unit Price

Margin 68%

Max Buying Price £230.4 M

Max Price

Quantity: 45

Cost per Piece Image

Materials

Consumption/Qty

Cotton (main fabric)

2.6m/piece

17.94

46.64

Cotton Lining

2.6m/piece

8.88

23.08

Embroidery

8000 stitches

7

Trims Elastic Band (4cm)

1.2m/ 1 piece

3

3.6

Woven Lables

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 83.26

Make/ Labour (20%)

Labour(cuttubg/ sewing)/Manufacturing cost

49.98

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

72.46 TOTAL

Freight

Based on Shipments from ……

4.8

ROE

USD to GBP

4.8

1.23

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Total Costs Margin Selling Price:

82

205.7

£194.24

£194.24 73.02% £720.00

Im

12.0 THE COSTING

.4 Max Image

Maximum Factory price Maximum Factory price Landed BP revert back to US$ £230.40 £202.99 $249.68

Landed BP revert back to US$ £230.40 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £202.99 £202.99 Change in to USD x 1.23 Change in to USD x 1.23 $249.68 $249.68 Remove the freight @4.8/pc Remove the freight @4.8/pc 244.88

£202.99 $249.68 244.88

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs 244.88 MAX Planned Costs 244.88 Materials 50% 122.44 Materials 50% 122.44 Labour 20% 48.98 Labour 20% 48.98 Overheads 30% 73.46 Overheads 30% 73.46

NEW FEMININITY

83

12.0 THE COSTING

Components (50%)

Style: Jumpsuit

Retail Price

£840.00

Margin 68% Max Price

Materials

Consumption/Qty

Unit Price

Linen (main fabric)

2.5m/piece

15.78

39.45

Cotton Lining

2.5m/piece

8.88

22.2

3

2.16

Cost per Piece Image

Trims Elastic Band (4cm)

0.72m/ 1 piece

Woven Lables

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 66.75

Make/ Labour(cuttubg/ Labour sewing)/Manufacturing cost (20%)

57.3

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

85.94 TOTAL

4.8 Freight Based on Shipments from ……

ROE

USD to GBP

84

209.99 4.8

1.23

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Max Buying Price £268.8 Quantity: 33

£198.20

Total Costs Margin

£198.20 76.40%

Selling Price:

£840.00

Im

12.0 THE COSTING

8.8 Max Image

Maximum Factory price Maximum Factory price back to US$ Landed BP revert

Landed BP revert back to US$ First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £236.82 £268.80 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £236.82 Change in to USD x 1.23 $291.28 £236.82 Change in to USD x 1.23 $291.28 Remove the freight @4.8/pc 286.48 $291.28 Remove the freight @4.8/pc Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs 286.48 MAX Planned Costs 286.48 Materials 50% 143.24 Materials 50% 143.24 Labour 20% 57.30 Labour 20% 57.30 Overheads 30% 85.94 Overheads 30% 85.94 £268.80

£236.82 $291.28 286.48

NEW FEMININITY 85

12.0 THE COSTING

Components (50%)

Style: Print Jumpsuit

Retail Price

£840.00

Margin 68% Max Price

Materials

Consumption/Qty

Unit Price

Linen (main fabric)

2.5m/piece

16.78

42.17

Cotton Lining

2.5m/piece

8.88

22.2

3

2.16

Cost per Piece Image

Trims Elastic Band (4cm)

0.72m/ 1 piece

Woven Lables

30x70mm + 65x25mm/ 2 pieces

0.08

0.16

wrapping tissue paper

50X70cm/2 piece

0.09

0.18

Packaging (paper box)

1 pack

2.6

2.6 69.47

Make/ Labour (20%)

Labour(cuttubg/ sewing)/Manufacturing cost

57.3

Overhea Factory running costs d (30%)

85.94 TOTAL

Freight

Based on Shipments from ……

4.8

ROE

USD to GBP

1.23

Total Costs Margin Selling Price:

86

212.71 4.8

Duty& Based on research through Clearanc customs Clearance add 12%+1.5%=13.5% e 1.5%

Max Buying Price £268.

Quantity: 17

£200.71

£200.71 76.11% £840.00

12.0 THE COSTING

68.8 Max Image

Maximum Factory price Maximum Factory price Landed BP revert back to US$ Landed BP revert back to US$ £268.80 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £236.82 £268.80 First remove D & C devide by 1.135 £236.82 Change in to USD x 1.23 $291.28 £236.82 Change in to USD x 1.23 $291.28 Remove the freight @4.8/pc 286.48 $291.28 Remove the freight @4.8/pc Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

Then using theory from Evans and Jeffreys ……

MAX Planned Costs 286.48 MAX Planned Costs 286.48 Materials 50% 143.24 Materials 50% 143.24 Labour 20% 57.30 Labour 20% 57.30 Overheads

30% 85.94 Overheads 30%

£236.82 $291.28 286.48

85.94

NEW FEMININITY 87

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

88

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

13.1 UNIT RATIO

89

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

Item

90

Image

Cost

Rent Price (5 Days)

Total Quantity

Total Cost

1

Puff Sleeves Crop Brown/ ZRR2101

£117.02

£65.00

21

£2,457.42

2

Puff Sleeves Crop Print/ ZRR2121

£117.29

£65.00

9

£1,055.61

3

Front Pleat Trousers/ ZRR2102

£121.20

£60.00

25

£3,030.00

4

Sundress White/ ZRR2103

£156.44

£83.00

32

£5,006.08

5

Sundress Print/ ZRR2123

£152.05

£83.00

13

£1,976.65

6

Long White Dress/ ZRR2104

£194.24

£103.00

35

£6,798.40

7

Jumpsuit/ ZRR2105

£198.20

£120.00

33

£6,540.60

8

Jumpsuit Print/ ZRR2125

£200.71

£120.00

17

£3,412.07

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

How Many Times Need to Rent by Customers?

37.81

16.24

Break Even (Times)

38

17

13.2 BREAK-EVEN ANALYSIS T he ai m of br eak- even analysis is to identify how m any

50.50

51

ti me s of the gar m ents need to r ent by the custom er s i n o rde r to cover the cost.

60.31

61

D u e t o t h e r a n g e i s f o r h i r e d o n l y, t h e a i m i s t o m a k e each garment hire as many times as possible for the reason to cover the cost and start making profit.

Therefore, the range will manufacture small quantity of

23.82

24

cl oth e s w i th each clothes under 50 pieces.

Jumpsuit and sundress are considerate as best

66.00

67

seller due to their uniqueness design and the perfect fitness for every body shape. Front-pleat trousers is co n si de rate as the wor st seller because of its r elati v el y o rdi na ry design.

54.51

55

28.43

29

91

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

13.3 MONTH BY MONTH RENTAL PERIOD

MONTH BY MONTH RENTAL Item

Rent Price (5 Days)

Break Even (Times)

Total Cost

March Rental

March Rent Value

April Rental

April Rent Value

May Rental

1

Puff Sleeves Crop Brown

£65.00

38

£2,457.42

2

£130

4

£390

9

2

Puff Sleeves Crop Print

£65.00

17

£1,055.61

2

£130

2

£260

6

3

Front Pleat Trousers

£60.00

51

£3,030.00

2

£120

5

£420

9

4

Sundress White

£83.00

61

£5,006.08

3

£249

6

£747

14

5

Sundress Print

£83.00

24

£1,976.65

2

£166

4

£498

9

6

Long White Dress

£103.00

67

£6,798.40

3

£309

7

£1,030

12

7

Jumpsuit

£120.00

55

£6,540.60

5

£600

9

£1,680

16

8

Jumpsuit Print

£120.00

29

£3,142.07

2

£240

5

£840

13

The rental range will launch from early March to middle of October.

June to August is the period when it is expected to reach a high amount of rental because of the suitable weather for summer holiday. While the low amount of rental in March and April are due to the new rental collection just bring into the market which need more time and need more marketing for customer to adopt the trend.

92

13.0 BREAK EVEN ANALYSIS

PERIOD (2021MAR-2021OCT) May Rent June Value Rental

June Rent Value

July July Rent August Rental Value Rental

August September September October October Rent Rental Rent Value Rental Rent Value Value

£975

12

£1,755

15

£2,730

16

£3,770

8

£4,290

5

£4,615

£650

5

£975

6

£1,365

8

£1,885

4

£2,145

4

£2,405

£960

12

£1,680

15

£2,580

11

£3,240

7

£3,660

9

£4,200

£1,909

17

£3,320

20

£4,980

12

£5,976

10

£6,806

7

£7,387

£1,245

12

£2,241

17

£3,652

20

£5,312

14

£6,474

8

£7,138

£2,266

16

£3,914

22

£6,180

18

£8,034

13

£9,373

7

£10,094

£3,600

23

£6,360

26

£9,480

21

£12,000

15

£13,800

8

£14,760

£2,400

20

£4,800

24

£7,680

19

£9,960

12

£11,400

6

£12,120

93

14.0 CRITICAL PATH JUNE 1

JULY 2

3

4

Research Design Sourcing Supplier selection Place order Product specification Trim & embroidery approval Lib dip approval Print approval First fit sample Sample amendments Second fit sample approval P P sample approval Production start TOP sample approval Production end Quantity Audit Ship to UK Transport to warehouse Assembling & packaging

94

1

AUG 2

3

4

1

SEP 2

3

4

1

OCT 2

3

4

1

2

NOV 3

4

1

DEC 2

3

4

1

JAN 2

3

4

1

FEB 2

3

4

1

MAR 2

3

4

1

2

3

4

95

15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION

96

15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION

15.1 HOW IT WORKS FOR ONLINE RENTAL? Offering a rental or subscription

rental model to grant customers

model can increase customers’

interest to an array of garments

loyalty to brands as well as reduce

and accessories (Mcdowell,

single use fashion apparel, while

2019). According to primary

it requires new approaches to

research, most of the online

marketing, pricing, and logistics.

rental retailers follow the same

Brands such as Rent the Runway

rental business model (Figure

( U S ) , L e To t e ( U S ) , M y W a r d r o b e

7). Zimmermann will also apply

HQ (UK) and Y Closet (China)

this rental model for its first

have already operated a seamless

r ental r ange.

Figure

7:

Rental

apparel service model (Online, Reuters, 2019)

97

15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION

11 5 . 2 F O C U S O N S O C I A L M E D I A MARKETING & PROMOTION

Around 3.48 billion people using social media in 2019 and the average social media users spend 142 minutes daily scrolling on different platforms. Seeing from the data, this has created plenty of opportunities for brands to market themselves to the potential customers (The Fashion Network, 2019). Not only can the brand market t h r o u g h s o c i a l m e d i a p l a t f o r m s u c h a s I n s t a g r a m , Tw i t t e r, Yo u Tu b e o r F a ce b o o k, b ut can also m ar ket via influencer s.

According to Mintel (2020) research, nearly 20% of those who follow on social media influencers or celebrities are k n o wi ng l y maki ng pu rchases dir ectly in r esponse to a post from them. The 25-34 age group (26%) and those with an i n c o m e o f ÂŁ 5 0 ,0 0 0 -74 ,9 99 ( 28%) ar e m ost likely to do so.

98

15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION

The first pop up of the rental range will be on Zimmermann’s official Instagram, where it already has over 2 million followers. There will be at least one new post a day for the first month promoting garments and making customers understand the rental services. By incorporating with influencers, the rental collection is able to expose to wider customers base.

99

16.0 END OF LIFE STRATEGY 100

15.0 MARKETING & PROMOTION

16.1 THE CIRCULAR PROMISE OF RENTAL MODEL ‘Circular fashion is defined as a apparels, footwears or accessories that are designed, sourced, manufactured and provided with the aim to be used and circulate responsibly and effectively in society for their maximum value and longevity, and return safely to the environment when they are no long of used’ (Green Strategy, 2017).

Fashion renting has changed the liner fashion model into circular model via extending the life of clothing. By lengthening the life of apparels for an extra 9 months lessens the carbon, water and footprint by 20 to 30% (Cunningham, 2020).

Regarding to the end of life strategy for Zimmermann rental resort range, all of the garments will hire by customers about 7 to 10 times and last for approximately 12 months instead of bringing into the landfill after one or two used. After the garments is hire 7 to 10 times they will sell via the official website. If the garments are too worn to be worn, Zimmermann will ensure that the clothing goes into fiber recycling process in order to create new fiber.

101

The new resort wear rental business for Zimmermann a ims to red u ce si ng l e use fashion in sum m er season as well as fulfill those environmental conscious customers but still desire a trendy look on their outfits. However, the limitations and barriers on both customers and retailer aspect should also be considered.

On the customers perceptive, the cost of renting highend resort wear is often higher than buying a mass-market one. This relatively high rental cost might stop customers form renting. Secondly, customers might also worry about t h e g a r m e n t ’s q u a l i t y, c l e a n l i n e s s , s i z i n g a n d f i t i s s u e s since the rental service only operates online (Mintel, 2018). As a resort wear for hired, the brand should make sure all the garment has high quality in order to hired as many times as possible without potential damages such as thread-end, stain and torn out. Furthermore, to achieve a more sustainable business model, the brand should also consider the impact of dry cleaning as well as the back and forth transportation (Braithwaite, 2018).

102

17.0 LIMITATIONS

103

18.0 CONCLUSION

104

It is no denying that fashion industry has caused considerably impact to the environment. Particularly, the overconsumption and thrown away fashion which are seen in the resort wear market. In order to tackle the potential problem, this project has considered all relevant stages of purchasing cycle and brought up a concept for the future of circular fashion business: Rental.

Fashion rental gives apparels and accessories a longer life, meanwhile, reduces single use fashion waste.

T h ere a re ri si ng n u mber of custom er s and r etailer s with sustainable mindset which could possible bring a positive growth in fashion renting in the future. The Zimmermann resort wear rental conveys a message that it is able to have all the joyful of fashion without having to purchase into the accumulative and disposable nature of fast fashion. However, rental market in UK remains fragment, large number of retailers haven’t yet adopted and started u p t h e r e n t a l m o d e l . To a c h i e v e a m o r e s u s t a i n a b l e business further change and adjustment in rental model and customers behavior is needed.

105

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Figure 1: Renting Fashion Items (Online, Mintel, 2020)

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Figure 2: What are fashion consumers seeking out and worrying about? (Online, Breslauer, 2019)

https://www.socialstandards.com/blog/sustainable-fashion-consumer-trends Figure 3: Competitors sizing on resort wear Figure 4: Clothing sizes worn by womenswear consumers (Mintel, 2019: Online)

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KEwj7tIqfiafpAhUK3pQKHZjPCugQMygpegUIARDZAg..i&docid=hqbnIa3pghpOM&w=3000&h=1914&q=zimmermann%20brand&ved=2ahUKEwj7tIqfiafp AhUK3pQKHZjPCugQMygpegUIARDZAg business opportunity Image11 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.google.com/search?q=zimmermann+brand&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUK EwiO17ObiafpAhUJ7ZQKHbsyA5IQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=zimmermann+brand& gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMg IIADICCAA6BAgjECc6BAgAEENQtQ1YqhlgyxpoAHAAeACAAZkBiAGUApIBAzA uMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1n&sclient=img&ei=7ci2Xs6sKona0wS75Yy QCQ&bih=737&biw=1419#imgrc=02iiAQw__iuCfM&imgdii=fGWt19_KIQQufM Image12 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.google.com/search?q=zimmermann+brand&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUK EwiO17ObiafpAhUJ7ZQKHbsyA5IQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=zimmermann+brand& gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMg IIADICCAA6BAgjECc6BAgAEENQtQ1YqhlgyxpoAHAAeACAAZkBiAGUApIBAzA uMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1n&sclient=img&ei=7ci2Xs6sKona0wS75Yy QCQ&bih=737&biw=1419#imgrc=XGAM31vJRJNO5M&imgdii=hQ79c2woZWZw MM Market analysis Image13 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020s https://www.pinterest.com/pin/168181367309307160/ Image14 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/13370130127999067/ Image15 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/257620041173684611/ Image16 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.cutlerandgross.com/visionaires/nicky-and-simone-zimmermann competitors Image17 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020

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Image38 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.zimmermannwear.com/hk/campaign-resort-rtw-20/

tech pack Image39 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.zimmermannwear.com/hk/runway-super-eight/

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END OF LIFE Image52 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.zimmermannwear.com/hk/campaign-resort-swim-2020/

LIMITATION Image53 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/571957221429581904/ CONCLUSION Image54 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.zimmermannwear.com/hk/zfeed/

COVER2 Image55 [Online] [Access on] 9th May 2020 https://www.zimmermannwear.com/hk/zfeed/

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