Yes Chef Magazine by Chef Magazine

Yes! CHEF

The Magazine for the Professional Chef

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What happens next

With Paulo de Tarso INDUSTRY TOPIC

RECIPES AND BOOK REVIEW FRONT OF HOUSE

TALK TO THE CHEF

THE HARRISON OVEN

SPAIN Here we come INGREDIENTS

“adversity brings out the best in man.”

39 64

IN THE KITCHEN

NEWS 44

Yes! CHEF Issue 7

PUBLISHED BY Chef Media

PUBLISHER Peter Marshall peter@chefmedia.co.uk Tel: 0044 0207 0971396 ADVERTISING SALES peter@chefmedia.couk

WRITERS Nick Harman Bruce Scott Josh Sims Namai Bishop DESIGNED BY Chef Media Copyright Chef Media United Kingdom www.chef-magazine.com Yes Chef Magazine is published for Professional Chefs Published 6 times a year and available in both electronic and printed format.

Yes! CHEF

The Magazine for the Professional Chef

This months cover is Paulo De Tarso featured in our article wriiten by Paulo about his journey in the Restaurant industry

Yes Chef Magazine published for the Professional Chef 8

To celebrate the re-launch of Yes Chef Magazine, formerly Chef Magazine, we are pleased to offer our readers range of specially commissioned napkins at amazing prices

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Restaurant

Chef

Location

3 Michelin Star Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Fat Duck Gordon Ramsay Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library) Waterside Inn

lain Ducasse Heston Blumenthal Gordon Ramsay Pierre Gagnaire Alain Roux

Jean-Philippe Blondet Edward Cooke Matt Abé Johannes Nuding Fabrice Uhryn

Mayfair Bray Chelsea Mayfair Bray

Michelin Listing for 2020

2 Michelin Star Aimsir Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons Claude Bosi at Bibendum CORE by Clare Smyth Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Greenhouse Greenhouse Hand and Flowers Hélène Darroze at The Connaught Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs La Dame de Pic L'Enclume Le Gavroche Ledbury Midsummer House Moor Hall Patrick Guilbaud Raby Hunt Restaurant Nathan Outlaw The Dining Room Restaurant Sat Bains Umu

Jordan Bailey Stevie McLaughlin Raymond Blanc Claude Bosi Clare Smyth Ashley Palmer-Watts Mikael Viljanen Chenge of Chef Tom Kerridge Hélène Darroze James Knappett Ann-Sophie Pic Simon Rogan Michel Roux Jr. Brett Graham Daniel Clifford Mark Birchall Patrick Guilbaud James Close Nathan Outlaw Niall Keating Sat Bains Yoshinori Ishii

Gary Jones

Rachel Humphrey

Guillaume Lebrun

Celbridge ROI Auchterarder Oxford/ Chelsea North Kensington Hyde Park Dublin Mayfair Marlow Mayfair Bloomsbury London Cartmel Mayfair North Kensington Cambridge Aughton Dublin Darlington Port Isaac Malmesbury Nottingham Mayfair

1 Michelin Star A. Wong Adam's alchemilla Allium at Askham Hall Alyn Williams at The Westbury Amaya Angler Aniar Artichoke Aquavit Barrafina Bastion Beach House Black Rat Black Swan Blackbird 10

Andrew Wong Adam Stokes Alex Bond Richard Swale Alyn Williams Sanchit Kapoor Gary Foulkes JP McMahon Laurie Gear Henrik Ritzén Carlos Gomez Paul McDonald Jon Marsden-Jones Tom Banks Dom Robinson Dom Robinson

Victoria Birmingham Nottingham Askham Mayfair Belgravia Finsbury Galway Amersham St. James's Soho Kinsale ROI Oxwich, Wales Winchester Oldstead Newbury

Restaurant

Chef

Location

1 Michelin Star continued Stephen Smith Keith Braidwood Tomos Parry George Livesey Robert Potter Garrett Byrne Brad Carter Peter Sanchez-Ingelsias Steeven Gilles Ross Lewis Rob Krawczyk Bruce Poole Paul Walsh Fred Clapperton Pascal Aussignac Conor Toomey Ben Wilkinson Adam Smith Simon Bonwick Richard Galli Michael Deane Simon Hulstone Phil Howard Taylor Bonnyman Dan Smith Kevin Tickle Marc Wilkinson Jeff Galvin George Blogg Mickael Viljanen Karam Sethi Tong Che Hwee Seng Han Tan Aaron Patterson Sally Abé Ollie Dabbous Peter Gray Martijn Kajuiter Kenny Atkinson Hrishikesh Desai Takachi Miyazaki Takashi Miyazaki Jeremy Chan Jean Delport James Sommerin John Duffin Alex Chow Mark Kempson Tom Kitchin

St. Helier Newbury Shoreditch Bristol Castle Combe Kilkenny Birmingham Bristol Belgravia Dublin Ballydehob Wandsworth City of London Ripley City of London Edinburgh Braithwaite Ascot Burchett's Green Victoria Belfast Torquay Chelsea Chelsea Canterbury/Fordwich Grasmere Birkenhead Spitalfields East Grinstead Dublin Mayfair Bloomsbury Mayfair Oakham/Hambleton Fulham Mayfair Bray Ardmore Newcastle upon Tyne Windermere Isle of Eriska Cork St. James's Horsham Penarth Mountsorrel Mayfair Kensington Edinburgh/Leith

Michelin Listing for 2020

Bohemia Braidwoods Brat Bulrush Bybrook Campagne Carters of Moseley Casamia Céleste Chapter One Chestnut Chez Bruce City Social Clock House Club Gascon Condita Cottage in the Wood Coworth Park Crown Dining Room at The Goring Eipic Elephant Elystan Street Five Fields Fordwich Arms Forest Side Fraiche Galvin La Chapelle Gravetye Manor Greenhouse Gymkhana Hakkasan Hanway Place Hakkasan Mayfair Hambleton Hall Harwood Arms Hide Hinds Head House House of Tides HRiSHi Isle of Eriska Ichigo Ichie Ikoyi Interlude James Sommerin John's House Kai Kitchen W8 Kitchin

Restaurant

Chef

Location

Michelin Listing for 2020

1 Michelin Star continued L'Ecrivain L'Ortolan La Dame de Pic La Trompette Lady Helen Le Champignon Sauvage Leroy Loam Locanda Locatelli Loch Bay Lyle's Lympstone Manor Marcus Mana Martin Wishart Masons Arms Matt Worswick at The Latymer Mews Morston Hall Murano Northcote Number One Nut Tree Opheem Olive Tree Outlaw's Fish Kitchen OX Oxford Kitchen Paco Tapas Paul Ainsworth at No.6 Peel's Pensons Pétrus Pied à Terre Pipe and Glass Pollen Street Social Pony & Trap Portland Purnell's Quilon Red Lion Freehouse Restaurant Hywel Jones Restaurant Tristan Ritz Restaurant River Café Rogan & Co Roganic 12

Derry Clarke Derry Clarke Tom Clarke Luca Piscazz Rob Weston Ken Harker David Everitt-Matthias Sam Kamienko Enda McEvoy Giorgio Locatelli Michael Smith James Lowe Michael Caines Mark and Shauna Froydenlund Martin Wishart Mark Dodson Matt Worswick Ahmet Dede Galton Blackiston Angela Hartnett Lisa Goodwin-Allen Jeff Bland Mike North Aktar Islam Chris Cleghorn Tim Barnes Stephen Toman Paul Welburn Dave Hazell Paul Ainsworth Robert Palmer Lee Westcott James Petrie Asimakis Chaniotis James Mackenzie Jason Atherton Josh Eggleton Merlin Labron-Johnson Glynn Purnell Mr A Sriram V Aylur Guy Manning Hywel Jones Tristan Mason John Williams Ruth Rodgers Tom Barnes Oliver marlow

Dublin Reading/Shinfield City of London Chiswick Thomastown Cheltenham Shoreditch Galway Regent's Park Isle of Skye Shoreditch Lympstone Belgravia Manchester Edinburgh/Leith Knowstone Bagshot Baltimore Blakeney/Morston Mayfair Blackburn/Lango Edinburgh Murcott Birmingham Bath Port Isaac Belfast Oxford Bristol Padstow Hampton in Arden Tenbury Wells Belgravia Bloomsbury South Dalton Mayfair Chew Magna Regent's Park Birmingham Victoria East Chisenbury Bath/Colerne Horsham St. James's Hammersmith Cartmel Marylebone

Restaurant

Chef

Location

1 Michelin Star continued Nieves Barragán Paul Foster Wiiliam Drabble Simon Radley Luke Tipping Paul Hood Steve Drake Stephen Stevens Fergus Henderson Andrew Pern Ben Crittenden Tom Sellers Agnar Sverrisson Michael Wignall Biily Boyter Isaac McHale Tom De Keyser Adam Bennett Niall Keating Gregory Wellman Michael O'Hare Gareth McCaughey Kevin Mangeolles Jun Tunaka Mike Tweedie Geoffrey Smeddle Steve Harris Clément Leroy Chris Harrod Chris Harrod John Campbell Thomas Carr Tim Allen Adam Byatt Karam Sethi Douglas Balish Keelan Higgs Uday Salunkhe Shaun Hill Tom Parker Aidan McGrath James Wilkins Colin McGurran Frances Atkins

Jonathan Woolway

Mayfair Stratford-upon-Avon St. James's Chester Birmingham Soho Dorking Anglesey Clerkenwell Helmsley/Harome Broadstairs Bermondsey Regent's Park Hetton Anstruther Shoreditch Marlow Kenilworth Malmesbury Kew Leeds Belfast Hunstanton Bloomsbury Adare ROI Whatcote Peat Inn Whitstable Mayfair Monmouth Newbury Ilfracombe Little Dunmow Clapham Common Regent's Park Egham Dublin Mayfair Abergavenny Fence Lisdoonvarna Bristol Winteringham Machynlleth

Michelin Listing for 2020

Sabor Salt Seven Pak Place Simon Radley at Chester Grosvenor Simpsons Social Eating House Sorrel Sosban & The Old Butchers St John Star Inn at Harome Stark Story Texture The Angel The Cellar The Clove Club The Coach The Cross at Kenilworth The Dining Room The Glasshouse The Man Behind The Curtain The Muddlers Club The Neptune The Ninth The Oak Room The Royal Oak The Peat Inn The Sportsman The Square The Whitebrook The Woodspeen Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room Tim Allen's Flitch of Bacon Trinity Trishna Tudor Room Variety Jones Veeraswamy Walnut Tree White Swan Wild Honey Inn wilks Winteringham Fields Ynyshir

"Cooking is a It's kind of the

caring and nurturing act.

ultimate gift for someone, to cook for them.

It creates all this beautiful stuff,

conversation, appreciation, romance. the most important things in life you do around a dinner table." Curtis Stone

here is nothing that would have prepared the hospitality industry for what is happening now, and there is no business plan that can factor in the forced closure of all restaurants for an unknown length of time. I have been publishing Chef Magazine for over 10 years and I have witnessed the dedication and lifetime commitment made

life in the industry and is now co-owns Margot Restaurant in Covent Garden to write an article reflecting on these times. It’s a great piece which I’m sure will have a great amount of resonance for us all. Simon Boyle, founder of Beyond Food, is also featured. Many of you will be well aware of his work helping the homeless and

by chefs and now all this hard work and creativity has been suspended while we simply have to wait and stay safe until the pandemic passes. Usually Chef magazine is packed full of positive interviews, news from the industry and inspiring recipes, but understandably there’s a dearth of this kind of information at present. Having seen videos and articles on social media about the emotion and distress chefs are going through as they have to close down their restaurants, I have reached out to Paulo De Tarso who is not only a friend but also a man who has spent his 14

disadvantaged enter the industry. As we are in the middle of this crisis Simon is now reaching out to chefs to help feed the most vulnerable. We also have a piece from Erin Dubuque working out of California, she and I were recently on a trip in Spain and we take a look back at the trip and feature some of the ingredient suppliers we met. Erin has also written a piece about how things are in the States at the moment, where the crisis is really gaining momentum. It goes without saying that we are all looking forward to when

this crisis comes to an end. I am not sure if things will ever get back to how they were. I think people will value eating out and socialising in a very different way. I think people will be wary of mass gatherings and being in close proximity to strangers. I think restaurants will in the short term have to have more distance between tables to allay this fear. One thing is for sure, having endured weeks of lockdown is that people will recognise the skills of a good chef. Many people especially in London - have got out of the habit of cooking meals for themselves and I imagine having had to creating tasty meals using their own cooking skills they will value far more the skills required to create good tasty food consistently and will welcome the chance of eating out again soon Things can only get better from this point! I hope you enjoy this issue, I would love to hear from you all about how things are going

mongst all this melee, we also suffered the loss of one of the best chefs in the world, this of course being Michel Roux. I have read many eulogies about Michel, all of which made me realise how important his life’ work contributed to the catering industry. Not only did he and his brother Albert introduce the concept of fine dining and French classical food into the UK, Michel was instrumental in training and nurturing generations of chefs. From a personal perspective, I worked with Michel and of course Robyn, for over 20 years. I published the magazine for the Waterside Inn and Michel was instrumental in launching Chef Magazine with me. I have great memories of travelling around the world with him stand out memories include an event where Michel was cooking a dinner for 500 people at the Versace residence in Miami. The kitchen as so small we ended up having to borrow cookers from the local colleges and he produces a five course dinner from the garages of the property. Only a master chef with his skills could have pulled it off. I also remember vividly Michel cooking at the home of Cliff Richard. He cooked an amazing Beef Wellington for a guest that had paid £20,000 at one of the many auctions held at the Waterside Inn for the pleasure of having a dinner with Cliff Richard cooked by Michel Roux. Again watching him create a masterpiece in a strange kitchen was awe inspiring, the party was great fun especially when Cilla Black joined us! Another time that stands out for me was when we were in St Tropez at his home. I can’t remember why we were there but I remember us all visiting the Chateau Minuty vineyard which bordered the property and enjoyed a summer afternoon tasting fabulous wines with the 2 brothers, Jean-Etienne and François Matton who now run Minuty. Later, returning to Michel’s home where he and Brian Turner created a really simple dish that was packed full of flavour which we enjoyed with some Minuty wine. The next day we crossed the water to Port Grimuad to enjoy lunch at one of Michel’s favourite seafood restaurants La Table

472

du Mareyeur owned by Caroline and Euan Scutcher. I would love to share a story of one crazy evening in Switzerland. Again I cannot remember why we were there but I will never forget going into his garage where he had constructed a little den, which is a traditional pastime in Switzerland and having invited neighbours we all enjoyed traditional Raclette cooked by Michel. We just spent the evening talking about life and experiences. I recognise that I was very lucky to have been part of Michel Roux’s life and his experiences Many more memories come to mind but Michel was not just about cooking he had a tremendous heart and would always try to help if you fell on bad times. I will always be grateful to him for the support and help he gave to me when I struggled with Cancer. He made sure that I was under the care of one of the best oncologists in the country and continually asked how I was during the illness, he did not need to do this, but that was Michel I feel humbled and blessed to have known this caring individual and my thoughts are now with Alain who will I am sure carry the torch and continue with his consummate skill to make sure the Waterside Inn will remain one of the best restaurants in the world Peter Marshall Publisher 15 Chef_Magazine_Book_2015_Sep14_REPRO.indd 472

industry Topic Words: Paulo de Tarso and Heidi J Hamman

What Happ

I don’t mention the early part of my journey into the amazing hospitality industry often, partly because it’s almost out of sequence with the rest of my steps, but mostly because it’s tangled in a part of my memory of leaving home for the first time, being in a new country, feeling alone and completely uncertain where life would take me. Strangely similar to how we are all feeling now in this new “normal” and wondering when we will find our footing.

I usually tell people I got my start as a dishwasher in New York, but before that, I opened a coffeehouse in Brooklyn of all places. This was a long time ago before it became the creative mecca it is today. I was a little lost at the time, a fifteen-year- old boy in Brazil wanting more for my life than I saw around me but not entirely sure who I was yet. A family friend, Francisco da Silva invited me to join him on his quest for a new life. Francisco had been a successful architect in Brazil but was burnt out and tired of the same cycle. He decided he wanted to chase that American Dream we grew up hearing about. I remember when my grandfather said goodbye to me, he said, with all the love and intensity of the patriarch he was, ‘Don’t come back, there’s nothing for you here.’ 16

Francisco made plans to open a small coffeehouse. The concept was simple, coffee and fresh baked goods. Looking back, I wonder what people must have thought of us. Two mismatched Brazilian guys in New York barely able to speak English, one tall black man and a small, lean 15 year old kid who would rather be surfing or playing football. An interesting duo for sure! At the time, the neighbourhood where we were in Brooklyn was full of Haitians and Jewish people and New York City commuters. It was an eclectic and lively place, and the energy on the streets was always upbeat. Even though I’d come from a big city myself, São Paulo, I still felt like I’d never seen anything like it before. We worked long hours from 5am until 10pm every day. Don’t ask

pens Next ?

me why, but we lived in upstate New York and drove a long white van into Brooklyn every single day. We had a good run for over a year but in the end it didn’t work out, partly down to some strained relations due to our landlady falling in love with Francisco, making it all feel a little like my own Brazilian soap opera coming to life. The product was good but maybe too simple and homespun at a time when coffee culture was really starting to take hold. Starbucks hadn’t even taken begun yet. I can’t help but wonder what might have been had we stuck to it, but it wasn’t meant to be. The real point being, this early experience completely shaped me as a young person and planted the seed of creativity, food service and that energy of satisfaction.

I fell in love with the creative process of building something from scratch and pulling together the ideas of every little detail in order to please the customer, creating an experience and a memory. In the humble beginning of that little coffeehouse in Brooklyn, what I loved most was being a part of people’s life, being a part of their day in a way that was positive and uplifting and searching for ways to enhance that. As a young kid, who missed his family living so far away and who really should have still been in school, this was a new feeling of belonging and purpose. I took that feeling and built my career goals, a life purpose around it. It took many shapes over the years, 17

a lot of mistakes and missteps and personal catastrophes and triumphs too. But at the core, I really believe that what I fell in love within Brooklyn is still what I strive for to this day. Connection. I loved the feeling of connection once the customer comes in to experience what you have worked hard to create. The real beauty is that it’s not a one way exchange or a final draft, it’s mutual, flows both ways, and is always an evolving and changing relationship. Sometimes we respond to direct recommendations, or demands, but usually a feeling and a direction that begins to take shape organically. That's not to say that the backdrop hasn't been purposely put into place, the surroundings, the setting, the menu, the offer, the mood, all the elements in place to then create a unique experience for every individual. The entire process felt natural and exciting to me. 18

There was an incredible feeling when someone enjoyed a piece of cake with a delicious cup of Brazilian coffee. So simple, such satisfaction on both sides. It was not a transaction but a human interaction of both parties sharing an experience. So if the question is, why do we do what we do? How do we find our career paths? What shapes us? The answers come on reflection in surprising places. We find our passions and forge our path as opportunities arise. We find our true grit and our path as obstacles and challenges come our way. I was really sad when we had to close that little coffeehouse, worried about what would come next, feeling a little lost again, but I learned that one door closing meant another soon would open. Strangely familiar feelings lately with all that is going on and perhaps why this memory of a time so long buried has come back

I soon realised that by working hard, having a positive attitude and providing a good service played an important part and people appreciated it.

to me so clearly. How funny it feels so fresh in my mind. I remember buying the New York Times and searching for the best restaurants in NY. We didn’t have google then, I had to pound the actual pavement and research by going to the different neighbourhoods and checking them out. My first job was in Soho at a Japanese restaurant. In Brazil, I had grown up with a lot of Japanese friends since there is a massive Japanese population in São Paulo. This place was packed for lunch and dinner. The only position open was as dishwasher. I didn’t care, I just needed a job and I wanted to stay in the vibrant and creative industry. Plus, it helped that I’ve always loved Japanese food, and I’m pretty sure I ate my weight in noodles with soy sauce. The work was difficult and the chefs would scream at me because

I wasn’t fast enough, or I was in the way, or I was in the kitchen, or I wasn’t. I lasted for 6 months but one night when I was taking out the rubbish, broken glass from inside the bag slashed my legs, cutting both my legs badly. There was blood everywhere. I patched myself up. When I came back to work the next morning, I was fired. I was shocked by the incident. I guess my first introduction to the cut throat (leg) side of kitchen work was enough for me. I decided front of house was the way to go from that point onwards. Without any real experience, I went to Columbus Avenue where the best restaurants in New York were at the time. I got a job as a busboy (commi). I completely and utterly fell in love with this job. It might sound strange now to think that something so simple felt like such a big, exciting step for me. It felt like finding my purpose

again. I felt that “this is where I’m meant to be” certainty.

COVID isolation. London has been good to me. I’ve met and worked with some incredible people. The industry here has been in a great awakening during our time here and it’s been exciting to be a part of it. So many exciting chefs, restaurateurs, industry leaders. It’s been an incredible 15 years for the London food scene. I like to think I have played a part, and at the very least, I have celebrated it and strive to inspire and pass knowledge to the next generation.

I was able to interact with the entire staff, and to communicate with the customers face to face again. I soon realised that by working hard, having a positive attitude and providing a good service, my small role played an important part and people appreciated it. In fact, they would even hand me money for my extra efforts. It was a no-brainer, one of my favourite new phrases I learned at the time. Front of house meant anything was possible, people to connect with, and instant gratification of knowing you could make a difference in the experience. Here I learnt to read people, to understand and anticipate everything they were going to need. It was pure magic and I decided I wanted to become Pele on the restaurant floor. I was floating through the air and I was in my element. The restaurant became my home, my family, regulars became 20

friends and the difficult customers taught me that I had to be even more creative to keep them happy. Little gestures of kindness keep the world afloat. My career, and life, took many twists and turns from there, but my early roots in the industry stayed with me, life lessons. My wife and I came to London 15 years ago. A lifetime ago in so many ways. Before kids, before Margot, before Brexit, before

My time at The Wolseley was another turning point for me. It was there that I knew everything I’d learnt to that point, and everything I hoped to create for myself was not only on the right track, but exactly on point. Corbin & King are masters at what they do. Jeremy has always been incredibly generous with sharing his knowledge, and I know I can go to him even now to help unravel whatever I’m contemplating. Next I spent some time at Scotts where I

connection.

met some incredible people and just really enjoyed my work there. But for me, the most important step in the formative part of my career was opening Bar Boulud for Daniel Boulud.

He had come to mean so much to me. I wasn’t sure how he’d react, if he’d be disappointed in me, or if the connection would fade if I didn’t work for him anymore. I had nothing to worry about. His reaction was just as incredible and generous as he has always been.

It is difficult to describe what my relationship with him means to me. He became mentor and friend, but he is also a role model of how to be a human. He is just an incredible person and I was so blessed to fall into his life so that he could then have such an impact on mine. He is generous, creative, and so full of wisdom. I learned so much from him, and I always know when I get to catch up with him these days, I will learn more.

me admire him more and live up to that expectation.

One thing about Daniel, he is not only an incredible chef but he understands how important service and the room are too. He is the most professional chef and he has a magical touch with the customer. The room is even more alive when he’s on the floor. Daniel and Mandarin Oriental allowed me to be myself and that trust only made

Leaving Daniel was one of the toughest things I have ever done. I loved working for him, with him. Even knowing I was going to open my own restaurant, my turn to follow my dream, I was reluctant to step away from him. Maybe it was a feeling of safety, knowing I was valued with him, but more than that, I think I was afraid to lose that

We hugged for a long time, and he told me how proud he was of me and that it was my turn to create something special and that he couldn’t wait to see it. He continues to be a huge part of my life. Always present, always thoughtful, always kind, that is Daniel Boulud. Opening Margot has been an incredible experience. From coming up with the concept, the name, cuisine, design and feel. The name was important for me, I wanted something strong but not necessarily tied to the cuisine. Margot is my mother-in-law's name, and the logo of the dachshund also comes from her nickname. She’s a strong, generous and kind woman, the name fit 21

Strange times. what is normal now would have seemed mad just a few weeks ago. 22

perfectly to what we were creating. The creative process is continuous, from opening, to daily service. Every detail along the way. The process has been incredible, the people involved, our team members past and present, everyone playing their role as we’ve developed. Building such a special clientele. I don’t think I even expected quite how special our customers would be in our little corner of Covent Garden. This is everything I love about our industry. I’ve been blessed with the teachers and forces in my life, the deeper connections I have made have buoyed and inspired me, and when putting my soul into opening a new business, I had so many strong shoulders of experience to lean on, too many to list fully, but there are always the ones I go back to time and again. Danny Meyer, Monica Galetti, Angela Hartnett, Tom Kerridge, Jason Atherton, Sat Bains, Nieves Barragon, David Nichols, Michel Roux Jr, Ashley Palmer-Watts and of course Daniel Boulud, endless thanks for the shoulder. Since this is a time for reflection, I’m reminded that one of our early reviews was pretty terrible. Maybe it wasn’t as bad as I remember it, but it felt raw and personal. When so many others open with teams behind them, we were a couple of guys with some private investors who respected what we wanted to do. No HR team, no one ordering office supplies, no one recruiting. Just us. Here we go!! And then to get slated on the first review for salt shakers that didn’t quite function during the soft opening… A critic writing up a soft opening feels like someone has looked behind the curtain

while the symphony is still fine tuning. Honestly, it was painful. For the team, everyone. Probably mostly for my wife and her family who had all come to London to wish us well and felt their story was about the awnings and salt shakers was not relevant. (We didn’t have awnings yet, we had cardboard on the windows. But some of our silver salt shakers that had been delivered the morning of service didn’t quite work.) WasI bitter? No. Am I became mindful that I might be a little less open to inviting critics to soft openings next time, yes. And I really appreciated receiving a personal letter from the reviewer's dinner companion from that night to say he was surprised the review took that turn. Early days and the talk matters, particularly to the team who are working on fumes. And then, that negative seemed to open the door to positives. Jay Rayner who must have thought, what the hell happened there given that he’d followed my career at least casually crossing paths, came in and everything changed. He got it. Tom Parker Bowles, Giles Coren, got it. And all the incredible chefs and peers we admire so much.... thank God. And we kept doing what we believed in and carried on. We would have anyway because we knew we had it right, but to have our peers and the people we respected get it meant a lot and moved the talk in the right direction. A little playful, tongue and cheek nod to all that we respect in the theatre of service, but also dead serious that we are here to make your experience a step away from the mundane. Connection. Creating a memory. That’s what we do. I’m old

fashioned. Service and the personal touch is what makes the difference for me. It’s that reliability, that connection and ease of service. Now, the dream has taken a turn I don’t think anyone could have predicted, and we, along with most of the world, had to shut our doors. Are we as a small business going to survive COVID-19 isolation? It’s anyone’s guess. I hope we do. I’ll put all my heart and soul into trying. I hope all our dear friends come through, our customers, the producers and suppliers, and the beautiful hospitality industry at large. From when I started putting together notes for this piece to now, so much has changed. Strange times, what is normal now would have seemed mad just a few weeks ago. It does make me think when we do get back to a life we can share with others, it will quickly feel normal again too, but I hope we hold onto some feeling of appreciation for how fragile it all is, and for how important togetherness really is. We’ve been forced to take some time for reflection, to pause. For most of us in the industry, sitting quietly is not our natural setting, so I’m willing to bet there are already ideas for reinvention brewing. The hospitality industry will evolve and rebuild. We are an industry of creativity and communion. We will always follow the dream. To borrow from one of my favourite songs right now, a life without dreams is just sleeping and waking. And I’m not here for that. None of us are. We’ll get through this and the other side will be warm and full of dreamseekers making it happen. Love, PDT

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Talk to the Industry Topic: ChefThe rise of the Vegetarian Words: Bernice Robin Banks Saltzer

“adversity brings out the best in man.”

William Shakespeare

It was Shakespeare who said that “adversity brings out the best in man.” It is certainly words that could have been written about Simon Boyle, who seems to rise to any challenge and combines his considerable skill as a chef with an equal talent to care for others. As the man behind Beyond Food, a London-based social enterprise he set up to help the vulnerable, the homeless and those just down-on-their-luck get a chance in life, it’s not surprising that he was one of the first to rally when Covid-19 struck. He immediately set up a support line, appealing to anyone with skills as a mental health counsellor to offer their help, asking people to volunteer to talk to the lonely and vulnerable at what has become the biggest challenge in everyone’s life. Amidst all of the doom and gloom however Simon has cause to feel very proud – thanks to some of his former apprentices who were among the first to contact him. “Two of the people that have been through the Beyond Food Foundation got in touch to see what they could do,” he revealed. “These were two guys who had really hard lives, they’d been to prison both through circumstances not of their own making and came to us and learned to become really good cooks. 28

“They managed to get great jobs and have done exactly what we set out to do – break the cycle of homelessness and get a chance in life. “They had both been put on furlough so immediately they got in touch with me to see how they could help other people.” The coronavirus situation saw Simon spring into action almost immediately – initially using the restaurant to feed vulnerable people, creating around 3500 meals in just a matter of days. When it became apparent for the need to socially distance Simon looked at other ways to help – including using his vast array of contacts to ensure that any unused food went to charities and organisations supporting the vulnerable. Doing something practical to help seems to be a way of life for Simon, who headed out to Sri LAnka in the aftermath of the tsunami in 2004 to help feed the thousands of displaced people who were victims of this terrible natural disaster. Prior to that Simon’s career had seen him work everywhere from The Savoy to luxury cruise ships, but the experience of being part of the humanitarian efforts in Asia was the catalyst for a change. He set up Beyond Food and his social enterprise restaurant,

“Two of the people that have been through the Beyond Food Foundation got in touch to see what they could do” Brigade, with the vision of helping who he calls “the unknown vulnerable” to get a chance in life. “There are so many people who are suffering from mental health issues, financial hardship and homelessness who just need some support,” he said. “When I went to Sri Lanka it made me realise the power of food and how I could use it as a catalyst for change. “I went out there and came back ten weeks later a changed man, It made me think about what I was doing and that perhaps I could use my experience to make a difference.” The concept of Beyond Food on paper is a simple one – giving vulnerable people and the homeless – the opportunity to learn real skills which can help them get work and change their lives. In reality however it takes someone with a huge amount of tenacity, perseverance and sheer bloodymindedness to make it

happen – and that’s what Simon did. He secured a huge amount of funding to run programme at Brigade, which although currently closed, will undoubtedly open again when the Covid-19 crisis is over. He has won a mind-boggling amount of awards and is now much in demand with companies wanting to build their social agenda, but his ambitions for Beyond Food still continue to grow. Coronavirus has also put – temporarily – on hold plans to launch Me and You, a scheme to help prevent youth homelessness and to look after “those for whom education is not a fit and who have fallen through the cracks.” This piece started with a quote, so let’s end with one – Simon Boyle is a living example of the fact that “not all superheroes wear capes.”

Travel and Ingredients Words: Erin Dubuque

SPAIN Here we come 30

Full plates, full schedules, full suitcases that’s what you can expect on a week-long press trip to Spain. Accompanied by nearly a dozen other journalists from different parts of the world, you can also count on a journey that’s full of surprises. Erin Dubuque with 31

After three days of presentations at Madrid Fusion and multicourse dinners at Michelin-starred restaurants across the city, it was time to hit the cobblestone road and begin our tour of Andalusia. We loaded up the vans and headed to Atocha train station to catch the four hour train to Cadiz. It was a smooth ride with stunning views, and most of us took advantage of the opportunity to catch some rest. When we arrived in Cadiz, we met with our new guide Rosa who escorted us to our hotel in Jerez de la Frontera. We enjoyed a light and lovely Andalusian dinner while discussing the itinerary for the following day. Next stop: sherry school! Traditionally, mornings in Spain are spent leisurely sipping on strong coffee and nibbling on a few slices of pan con tomate. 32

As pleasant as that would have been, our group spent our waking hours rushing through the breakfast buffet and shuffling through the center of the city to visit our first sherry producer of the day. A formally dressed educator greeted us at the gate of the Vinos de Jerez Sherry Academy and led us to a lecture room set up with a screen, projector, and tables covered with wine glasses. Each of us took our place at the table and settled in for an informative lecture of the sherry making process. We came, we listened, we tasted, and before we knew it we were off to the next destination - with a gifted bottle of sherry in hand. It was a completely different scene at Bodega Tio Pepe. We happily traded the classroom for the large, open barrel rooms dotting this gorgeous property with views overlooking the city.

We strolled the ancient wine cellars on foot, pausing to learn the history of Gonzalez-Byass, the maker that produces Tio Pepe and the largest sherry producer in the world. We enjoyed a brief tasting followed by lunch at A Mar, a local restaurant specializing in seafood. Having spent the morning chasing the the sherry rainbow, we were all ready to take a bus-seat siesta on our way out of Jerez. There is something very peaceful about walking along a row of olive trees. At Hacienda Guzman, it’s an even more serene experience knowing how far some trees have traveled to join the experimental garden we found ourselves in that sunny afternoon. Syria, Turkey, Greece, Lebanon - it’s comforting to know that all of these trees are here, growing together. The

general energy at Hacienda Guzman is one of great passion. The local economy depends on olive oil production, and over 250,000 families participate in the process each year. Special teams are hired to select the best olives for their signature oils. They work to educate tourists and locals on olive oil production and consumption, with programs like ‘Olive Tree Planet’ in place to bring younger generations to the table. From the 18th century mill to the horse yard to the olivoteca, the experience at Hacienda Guzman is like a scavenger hunt through three generations of olive oil producers. Our group was also granted access to a private section of the property that stored vintage cars, and you can guarantee that a group of international journalists didn’t hesitate to jump behind the wheel for a unique 33

photo opportunity. Continuing with our journey of olive exploration, dinner that evening was scheduled by Olives from Spain in a dark tavern in downtown Sevilla. Our introduction to Sevilla had been brief; we arrived with one hour to check in to the hotel and depart for the restaurant. A celebrity chef was hired to put on a show while course after course of olive-centric small plates quickly covered the top of our long wooden table. Stuffed, fried, chopped, diced - we had our fill of olives right down to the dessert course. Suffice it to say, we were ready to turn in for the night. After a busy day of touring and tasting, we were all moving a little slower on our final day of the trip. We attempted to leave the hotel, but a forgotten cell phone proved to be the first of many delays during our morning ride. A two hour bus ride to an 34

Iberico ham producer in Huelva turned into a nearly three and a half hour commute, and we crawled up the dirt roads to find an eager group of farmers ready to guide us through the hills of their sprawling property. We loaded into work trucks and rocked back and forth along the trails until we reached a scene that made us all jump out to join the fun: hundreds of black Iberico pigs playfully sniffing, snorting, and rolling around in the mud. We couldn’t help but smile as the sun reflecting off of shallow puddles waiting for a few round animals to make a splash. We held handfuls of grass out as a peace offering to hungry pigs that stretched their big, wet tongues to grab a snack through the wire fence separating us. Although time was not on our side since many of us had flights to catch that evening, we sat down for a delicious breakfast the farm’s kitchen staff had prepared

for us. Full plates of golden scrambled eggs and just about every ham product you can imagine rushed into the dining room as we raised our glasses of fresh orange juice to toast our lovely hosts. Splashes of champagne made their way around just before it was time to depart - a fitting end to a fast and furious trip. Friends and family always ask about the experience I enjoyed most from these trips, and my answer is always the same. We set out to discover new places and flavors, but the highlight for me is connecting with the people behind the incredible products and experiences we are fortunate to savor. Chefs, winemakers, farmers, and journalists, we’re all working together to promote the traditions that make a destination truly special. We travel long distances in search of adventure, but we’re always hungry for more.

On a personal note I ended the trip in Madrid and visited Casa Labra a third generation owned restaurant in the centre of the city. I visisted this restaurant on the advice of the organisers of the trip. And what a find. Casa Labra first opened its doors in 1860 and traditionally the owners still live above the restauant. Famously this is where the Partido Socialista Obrero Español (PSOE; Spanish Socialist Party) was formed on 2 May 1879. There is a small restaurant but the main businees is Bacalao (cod) Tapas. Having enjoyed a tour with the grandson of the founder I learn they serve 2500 portions a day getting through over 700KG of cod. What a businees, a must if you are in Madrid 35

IN THE KITCHEN

A gamechanger in British real fire cooking from the coolest British oven innovators. Harrison Ovens, the UK’s innovators in high performing professional charcoal ovens, announces the launch of The Harrison Icon, a dual-chambered charcoal oven which is the first of its kind. Handmade in Ramsgate by designer and engineer Daniel Thumwood, The Icon can cook at 2 different temperatures up to 400oC+ and is engineered not only to increase speed of service, but also to ensure an even temperature throughout which retains the moisture, flavour and integrity of the ingredients within. Top chefs such as Richard Corrigan (Corrigan’s Mayfair, Virginia Park Lodge, Bentley’s, Daffodil Mulligan), James Cochran (12:51, Goat, Great British Menu champion 2019,) and Neil Rankin (Temper, Simplicity Burger) have become hardcore fans of Harrison Ovens with many new chefs coming to the Harrison family every week - such as Yotam Ottolenghi, who has just purchased an Icon for his Spitalfields restaurant. Harrison’s Founder Daniel is passionate about real-fire cooking as well as being a designer, artisan and engineer rolled into one. The result of Daniel’s passion and skill is this beautiful range of hand-made, handsome stainless-steel ovens and the latest one to join the fold is not only striking to look at, it is a game-changer on the professional cooking front, too. The Icon achieves temperatures of up to 400°c and thanks to Dan’s design and clever engineering in stainless steel, retains the heat for hours and requires minimal charcoal use. The clever addition of a vent which separates the two vertically stacked chambers enables the chef to differentiate the heat between them. For example, meat can be cooked low and slow in the top chamber, whilst steaks and vegetables can be being seared at a high temperature in the bottom one simultaneously. Also, the heat from the upper level helps the lower level to retain its warmth for long periods of time, making it both versatile and economical for the restaurant. The Harrison Icon has a footprint of only 600mm2 and can be easily moved around for indoor and outdoor cooking. It comes with a stainless-steel cabinet on wheels, which contains the ashtray and four drawers for utensils or spices. Harrison Ovens are used and loved by chefs around the world, such as James Cochran, winner of Masterchef: The Professionals in 2019 and founder of 12:51,” Harrison Ovens are like no other charcoal oven; the craftsmanship that goes into the build is beautiful. Anything cooked on charcoal is always better and the 36

Harrison

ICON oven insulation you get with them means you can slow-cook meats for long periods of time and the result is something special. Say goodbye to the Big Green Egg and say hello to Harrison Ovens.” CEO of the hugely successful US-wide Tapas chain Barcelona Wine Bars, Adam Halberg, confirms this by saying, “While others have moved to sous vide cooking and each trendy new fad, we have enjoyed working with Harrison Ovens. They’ve allowed us to enhance real, whole ingredients with the ancient and noble flavours of smoke and fire in a controlled setting. Natalie and Daniel have been excellent partners as we redesigned the template for our newest kitchens around this special piece of equipment.” Daniel says of his creation, “The Icon has surpassed all expectation. We knew it was a great product but now we’ve tasted the results and heard the gushing praise from our chefs we are just delighted with how it has turned out.” Daniel wanted to create something high performing, robust and beautiful when he designed his first Harrison oven. After doing some research with chefs already using charcoal ovens, he realised the importance of making something that chefs would enjoy sharing a kitchen with, which focussed him on heat insulation, refinement and controllability. All his ovens are built to last a lifetime and Daniel cherishes the idea that ovens will stay in kitchens through the generations. Harrisonovens.com 37

Dr. Johann Siegert

It all started in 1824, when founder Dr. Johann Siegert first produced Aromatic Bitters as a medicinal tincture designed to alleviate stomach ailments. Originally known as “Amargo Aromatico” Angostura® Aromatic Bitters has now become a by word for Chefs and Mixologists alike as an integral ingredient in food and cocktails.

Recipes Rhubarb Custard Tart: Simon Boyle Grilled Avocado Guacamole: Chef Rocky Barnette

Book Review Cooking in Marfa: Chef Rocky Barnette

RECIPE

Rhubarb Custard Tart Chef Simon Boyle

Ingredients: Sweet Pastry 240g butter 480g flour 120g castor sugar 2 eggs Milk Pinch salt

Rhubarb Jelly 1 kg chopped rhubarb 500ml water 2 limes juice and zest 1 orange juice and zest 5 mint leaves I vanilla pod 3 slices fresh ginger 300g castor sugar 4 leaves of gold gelatine

Custard Filling 500ml double cream 5 egg yolks 100g castor sugar Vanilla extract

Rhubarb Topping 8 stems (medium) 100g sugar

Method: Sweet Pastry Brumb together by hand the butter in to the flour. Add the sugar. Mix in the eggs and enough milk to form a soft dough. Roll out and place into a 10" ring, making sure you right angle the inside corners. 5. Blind bake the pastry until completely cooked.

Rhubarb Jelly Gather all the ingredients together in a pan and bring to the boil. Leave to simmer until the rhubarb is fully cooked. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse over night. Place into a muslin bag and hang for a good few hours to train off all the liquid. Measure 1 pint and add 4 leaves of soaked bronze gelatine.

Custard Filling For the custard whisk yolks, sugar and vanilla together.

Bring cream to the boil then pour a little over the yolk mixture to temper followed by the remaining cream. Skim off any bubbles and pour into the tart case and bake at 150°C for 10 minutes until it has set with a slight wobble. Leave to completely cool.

Rhubarb Topping Slice the washed and trimmed rhubarb into 1.5cm thick slices and sprinkle with 100g of castor sugar. Bake at 180°C until cooked but still very firm. This should take approximately 5 minutes. The rhubarb should be cooked through but still firm and hold their shape. Chill immediately.

To Finish Slice the washed and trimmed rhubarb into 1.5cm thick slices and sprinkle with 100g of castor sugar. Bake at 180°C until cooked but still very firm. This should take approximately 5 minutes. The rhubarb should be cooked through but still firm and hold their shape. Chill immediately. 41

Cooking The Books Cooking in Marfa: Welcome we've been Expecting You By Rocky Barnette

Marfa, Texas, is a small town isolated in the west Texas desert, not far from the Mexican border. In the past 10 years it has become a satellite of the international art world and a destination for design-forward travellers, but its reputation belies its true size—it’s permanent population is less than 2,000 people. While Marfa has long stood as a cultural pilgrimage for Donald Judd admirers, it has more recently also become recognised in its own right as mecca for food lovers, due in large part to The Capri. Publishing this spring, Cooking in Marfa: Welcome, We’ve Been Expecting You introduces readers to a gastronomic oasis in a most unlikely place, and the remarkable people who have come together to make it a truly one-of-a-kind culinary destination. Cooking in Marfa shares the story of The Capri which, when founded in 2016, was one of only a dozen other establishments serving food in Marfa—not counting the gas station. Part oldtime saloon and 42

part Gilded-Age salon, the restaurant is owned and run by Chef Rocky Barnette, formerly of The Inn at Little Washington, and his wife, Texas-born Virginia Lebermann, co-founder of art non-profit Ballroom Marfa. Together, with their friend Sean Daly, a celebrated Hollywood set designer, they created an establishment as beguiling and unexpected as Marfa itself. Including over 80 recipes, Cooking in Marfa highlights Barnette’s unique fusion of regions and time periods—a collection of ancient Mexican cuisine, modern Texas classics, all with his distinct, Southern sensibility. The restaurant’s menu spotlights local products including mesquite beans, yucca, chocolate, and prickly pear—all of which have been consumed in the arid region for centuries. Their food and aesthetic are also informed by the couple’s fondness for and fascination with neighbouring Mexico, where they frequently travel to source ingredients like fresh cheese and grasshoppers.

RECIPE

Grilled Avocado Guacamole Chef Rocky Barnette Serves 6

Ingredients: For the tostones: Neutral oil, such as soybean or avocado, for frying 6 green plantains Sal de Chapulín For the guacamole: ½ cup (120ml) fresh lime juice ¼ cup (60ml) avocado oil 1 tsp citric acid (optional) 6 firm-ripe Hass avocados, halved and pitted Kosher (flaked) salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ medium red onion, cut into 1/8-inch (3 mm) dice 2 large jalapeños, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch (3 mm) dice ½ cup (20g) finely chopped cilantro (fresh coriander) ½ tsp ground cumin 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

When I first started cooking professionally, I had a series of what I half-jokingly call culinary epiphanies. I tasted the most beautiful and ripe avocados for the first time. Around the same time I had my first slab of seared foie gras. I fantasized that one day I would serve seared avocado in place of foie gras at the Michelin-starred vegan restaurant I dreamed of owning. In reality, I wound up grilling the avocados and making guacamole for a very discerning crowd here on the border. But I guess that’s why it’s called a fantasy. We serve this with tostones, fried plantain chips, to mimic chips and guacamole. Rocky Barnette

Method: The Tostones: Pour at least 4 inches (10 cm) oil into a deep-fryer or other heavy pot. Heat the oil to 300°F (149°C) over medium heat. Cut off both ends of the plantains. Using a knife, score each one lengthwise and release them from the peel. Slice the plantains crosswise into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths. Working in batches, fry the plantains until they are a light golden brown. Remove them from the oil. While the next batch is frying, flatten the pieces from the previous batch between 2 pieces of parchment paper using a small frying pan (we use a tortilla press). Heat the oil to 350°F (177°C). Return the flattened plantains to the oil and fry until they are golden brown and crispy around the edges but the center is still a little soft. Transfer to paper towels to cool and season with sal de chapulín.

The Guacamole: Preheat a grill (barbecue) or a cast-iron grill pan (griddle pan) to very high heat. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, avocado oil, and citric acid (if using). Season the avocados with salt and pepper. Brush them liberally with the lime juice mixture. Place the avocado halves flesh side down on the grill until they are slightly charred, about 4 minutes. Flip them and grill on the skin side for 1–2 minutes to heat the avocados through but not char the skin. Remove from the grill and brush the flesh side with more lime juice mixture. Set aside to cool to room temperature. Squeeze the avocado flesh into a large molcajete or bowl. It should slip right out of the skins from the grilling. Add the onion, jalapeños, cilantro (fresh coriander), cumin, olive oil, and any remaining lime juice mixture from the grilling process. Process with the mano if in the molcajete or with a spoon in the bowl to get a semismooth paste with some small chunks about the size of a pea. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with the freshly fried tostones for dipping. Guacamole can be stored in a pastry bag or airtight container for up to one day. 43

Hamish Macdonell, Director of Strategic Engagement for the Scottish Salmon Producers Organisation (SSPO), said: “Our top priority is, and always will be, the health and wellbeing of people everywhere and this includes those working in our sector and our customers. That is why we are determined to play our part in ensuring this crisis eases as quickly as possible. “However, as the UK’s top food export, Scottish salmon is prominent in a number of key markets which are now facing restrictions – of various sorts – because of the Coronavirus outbreak.

“This has led to problems in getting salmon to our customers in different parts of the world, problems which are likely to get worse before they get better. “We are working with the Scottish and UK governments and environmental regulators to keep fish in the water for longer, where this is appropriate, and looking at other measures to give our members more flexibility in dealing with these market disruptions. “It has so far been relatively straightforward working through these measures as the preparatory work was done ahead of a possible ‘no deal’ Brexit

last year, when similar market problems were anticipated. “It is worth noting, however, that the UK market for salmon remains strong at the moment as customers stock up in anticipation of further restrictions at home and some of our member companies are looking actively at market substitution as a way of coping with the ongoing drop off in demand from other parts of the world. “We will continue to monitor the situation very closely and work with the authorities to do all we can to minimise the disruption caused by this worldwide crisis.”

UCFF postpone to the new date of Tuesday September 14

We are facing extraordinary times. The effects on us all, both personally and professionally, are unparalleled and we don't think any of us could have imagined the profound impact COVID-19 would have on our lives. We know many of you are facing big personal battles and business challenges right now – and we send our very best wishes for a quick resolution and happier times ahead. We wanted to therefore let you know that we have decided to postpone this years ucff to the new date of Tuesday September 14, 2021. The festival will still take place at the fabulous Mudwalls Farm in Warwickshire. We are so gutted we won’t be having our festival this year, as we’ve been working so hard to bring you the biggest and best festival to date! But fear not, we will be back bigger and better next year! Just so you know, we will be taking a short break with our communications over the next few weeks in respect of the situation most of you will be in. Hopefully, soon, when our lives have returned to some sense of normality, we will come back brighter and stronger! On a positive note, we are building some interactive online elements that will be complementary to the event such as podcasts and presentations – so watch on the socials for more updates coming soon! We know the challenges you're facing and we’re sending our thoughts and best wishes to you all. As an industry, we know we can get through this - we are strong enough to weather this storm and we can't wait to see our community back together in the future. 44

Naturally, we’ve you to thank. Through your continued support, we’ve farmed the finest fresh produce for more than 50 years. From that first fish harvested in a remote Highland sea loch to Scottish salmon becoming the UK’s fish of choice. Scotland’s communities have given us the people and the passion to produce one of the world’s finest foods. As you’ve stuck by us for the last five decades, we’ll stick by you for the next five, no matter what the world throws at us. Thank you.

@LoveScottishSalmon 45 25100_JUMP_YesChef_Ad_1.indd 1

20/03/2020 15:35

News: Craft Guild of Chefs outlines plans for the 2020 Graduate Awards Today, the Craft Guild of Chefs has revealed that due to demand from chefs, its annual Graduate Awards will still go-ahead, but the exam dates are being moved until later this year. Despite the extremely challenging time the industry is facing, ambitious young chefs are continuing to enter these awards online, showing huge determination to develop their skills and careers once this crisis is over. To ensure that as many chefs as possible have this opportunity, the Guild has extended its deadline until Thursday 30th April 2020. Chefs have the option of participating in either the Kitchen or Pastry Exam which involve a series of culinary challenges. The organisers are working hard behind the scenes to confirm new dates for the semi-finals, mentor experience and final exam as the whole committee is focused on ensuring this established annual event goes ahead. Steve Munkley, Vice-Chairman of the Craft Guild of Chefs and founder of these awards said: “None of us could have imagined what we’d face as an industry this year. However, I know that once this is over, the hospitality industry will be back; stronger and more resilient than ever. Culinary events like

the Graduate Awards push determined, talented and ambitious young chefs right into the limelight and I wanted to make sure all of them still have an opportunity to grow and shine this year. As an industry we need focus, hope and positivity right now and there will be many inspiring stories to come out of this awful experience. For me, simply seeing chefs enter the awards at the most difficult time of their career, has been uplifting as it shows the real strength chefs have. I’ll be using my time over the coming months to make sure these awards are one of our best yet and provide help, advice and support to all those chefs who make it to the next stage.” To be part of the 2020 event, chefs simply need to complete a short entry form and confirm who their mentor will be. Head chefs are encouraged to support their young chefs by recommending them for this award as it can drive skills up in kitchens and increase confidence. The entry form is available at https:// craftguildofchefs.org/competitions/graduate-awards. You can follow all the Graduate Awards action on social media using the hashtag #CGCGradAwards.

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News:

GIN DRINKERS VOTE ARTISAN DRINKS THEIR TOP TONIC… THE UK’s largest gin subscription organisation has raised a toast to The Artisan Drinks Company – by voting one of their mixers an all-time favourite. The Craft Gin Club has more than 38,000 members who sign up to receive a monthly box of gins, tonics and snacks. Included in Craft Gin Club’s February box was Artisan’s Pink Citrus Tonic, with fresh pink grapefruit, bold blood orange flavours and a hint of basil, it is seen by its creators as the perfect choice to pair with gin – or to drink alone. And now the company’s claim has been backed up by the thousands of members of the Craft Gin Club, who rated it number one out of 50 other tonics. Members are asked for feedback and the Pink Citrus Tonic was praised for everything from its “great taste and colour” to it being “crisp and refreshing.” At the same time the members also praised Artisan’s unique branding, saying it was “distinctive and eye catching” and “smart and classy.” Overall, the tonic was voted 8.5 out of 10 for taste and 8.8 for branding- putting it in poll position over every other mixer previously featured in the boxes. “We loved working with the Craft Gin Club and we are delighted to have got such amazing feedback and also to have become the favourite tonic of its members,” said Steve Cooper, CEO of The Artisan Drinks Company.“This is an audience who really know their stuff so it’s fantastic to have had such a strong seal of approval.”

The Artisan Drinks Company was set up in 2018 by experts with a long history in the industry, following their work with some of the world’s best-known brands. It was launched by North East born Steve Cooper, who had previously founded the highly successful Feel Good Drinks company, following on from his job as General Manager for Coca Cola Amatil in Australia. Steve joined forces with awardwining Australian bar owner Mikey Enright – whose bar The Barber Shop in Sydney was recently voted the global best gin bar - to bring their shared vision to life; a collection of premium range mixers which are now available in the UK, Australia and across Europe. The mixers are easily recognisable thanks to their unique pop art inspired-artwork which is showcased on the labels, created by Yorkshire-born artist, Alan Walsh, who is based in the South of France and whose work is internationally renowned. The Artisan Drinks Company’s current range include seven premium mixers - their Classic London Tonic, Skinny London Tonic, Violet Blossom Tonic, Pink Citrus Tonic, Agave Lemon Tonic, Barrel Smoked Cola and their most recent addition – Fiery Ginger Beer. For further information visit www.artisandrinks.com More details about the Craft Gin Club are available at www.craftginclub.co.uk

TASTE OF LONDON 17-21 JUNE IS CANCELLED Due to restrictions and advice from the UK government in light of global health concerns regarding COVID-19 (coronavirus), it’s with heavy hearts that we have to announce the cancellation of Taste of London, 17-21 June 2020. This decision was made after careful consideration and consultation with our key partners and Public Health England, as the health and safety of everyone involved in the festival remains our top priority. We thank you and all our loyal Taste fans, restaurants, partners and staff for your ongoing support, and look forward to celebrating everyone coming together again at the festive edition of Taste of London, 19-22 November. In the meantime, we'll continue to shine a light on ways we can support the industry, including our amazing restaurants, cafes, bars, pubs and other food businesses during these unprecedented times. Please tag us (@tasteoflondon) in anything you think deserves a share. 48

“

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18/03/2020 12:12

News: DEMANDS FOR TAKEAWAY PACKAGING

ONE of the UK’s leading suppliers to the hospitality business is gearing up to support restaurants and pubs which are being allowed to operate as takeaways. The Government has just announced that it is relaxing the rules for the leisure industry, so that restaurants can operate as takeaways to help them retain trade during the current coronavirus crisis. The IG Group – which has bases in both the North East and London – recently unveiled its new Green Planet Catering

Products, which includes environmentally friendly takeaway boxes and cartons. And the company has just taken delivery of all of the products – ready to roll them out immediately to any restaurant who is considering offering this service. Usually outlets needs to have planning permission to offer a take away service, but the Government has offered this approach “which will provide flexibility to pubs and restaurants which and will ensure people are able to stay safely at home, while still supporting some of the great local businesses“ But the added bonus is now we are also able to provide them to restaurants, pubs and bars which usually may not need these products but will use them to help create and retain business during these very difficult times.” All products in the Green Planet range are alternatives to single use plastics and are categorised into “compostable”, “recyclable” and “reusable.” Products available include hot and cold cups, cutlery, tablewear made from natural resources such as naturally fallen palm leaves and sugar cane and replacement options for fast food boxes. The company triesto source products from the UK wherever practicable and is committed to supporting the industry through one of its toughest challenges.

What does the cancellation of Wimbledon mean for their only strawberry grower? And how will the labour shortage, as a result of covid-19, impact their business? In the latest podcast from the Oxford Farming Conference

(OFC), Anna Hill speaks to OFC Director and owner of Hugh Lowe Farms Ltd Marion Regan, Established in 1893, the business grows strawberries, raspberries and blackberries and

is the only supplier of strawberries to Wimbledon, producing 33 tonnes in 2019. Marion talks about how Covid-19 and the cancellation of the sporting event will impact their business, what they can do to mitigate wastage including a recent conversation with food banks, and the challenge the business is facing recruiting seasonal workers. In the podcast Marion tells Anna "We are committed to the crop; it is planted but we can adjust timing to help reduce our peak of production." She also touches on why strawberries are a success story for the UK, how the supermarkets have helped grow sales for berries and how sophisticated UK production systems are leading the world due to their technical ability. She comments: "UK strawberries are a success story for the country. We have a sophisticated production system and lead the world due to the technical ability of the British growers. The supermarkets have grown sales, people want to eat berries and the supermarkets have had the confidence to put plenty out there for people to buy - we are serving the market from our own production." The podcast is kindly sponsored by BASF Agricultural Solutions https://www.ofc.org.uk/OFCpodcast

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A taste your customers will love !