Mīrandus Vol. I

MIRANDUS T H E M A G A Z I N E O F C H A R L O T T E T R AV E L

BHUTAN

THE KINGDOM OF HAPPINESS

WILDLIFE, WILD LANDSCAPES

THE BEST OF AFRICA FOR 2019

MELANESIA A SOUTH SEAS SOJOURN

E M B A R K O N A T H R I L L I N G J O U R N E Y. C E L E B R AT E T H E ‘ J O Y O F L I V I N G ’ W I T H E X Q U I S I T E C R A F T S M A N S H I P, A R T I S T RY A N D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y AT I T S V E RY C O R E .

Joy of living

joali.com

Dear CT Travellers, For our first issue of Mīrandus, the last thing I should write is ‘Welcome’. You have been part of our family for many years. Some of you have been clients – many become friends - of Charlotte Travel since day one, 17 years ago. We created this magazine so that you can be part of our journey, and a part of our vision to inspire travellers with the greatest travel experiences – and now travel stories – from across the world. Travel is, after all, about unique experiences and the stories we bring home with us.

We named our magazine Mīrandus so as to be in touch with what our clients dream of, a world waiting to be discovered. Mīrandus, which is means ‘to be wondered or marvelled at’ aims to give you a sense of the inspiring travel experiences waiting out there for you. As well-travelled as you may be, there are always places undiscovered and that is what this issue’s cover story is all about.

Every issue we will be featuring some of our own stories, as well as destinations that are on trend, locales that are enthralling and inspiring, and also tales from our team’s adventures as well. Being a travel company means we need to be well travelled so that we can deliver to you places we think you’d like to discover.

We have over 17 years of travel under our belt, and Mirandus is where we’ll be telling our stories, of the world out there, waiting to be discovered.

I hope you enjoy reading Mīrandus as much as we enjoyed creating it.

The Charlotte Travel team

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M I R A N D U S

致親愛的 CT 旅人： 在樂悠遊《奇程》創刊號中，我首先代表團隊跟大家說聲「歡 迎」，您已成為我們家庭一份子多年了。17 年前的某天，您們 當中有些是樂悠遊的顧客 — 很多更成為了摯友。我們創辦這 本雜誌，讓您成為我們旅程中的一部份，亦是我們理想的一部 份，希望告訴並啟發旅行家們，世界各地最佳的旅行體驗 — 現在已變成旅遊故事了。旅行，畢竟是伴隨我們回家的獨特體 驗及故事。 我們將雜誌命名為《奇程》，就是一個尚待被發現的世界，也 是顧客一直夢寐以求所追尋的。Mirandus 意思即是「奇妙的 旅程」，一場奇妙且會讓您驚嘆的旅行體驗，正期待您去發掘。 您可能經常周遊列國，但總有些地方尚未探索，正正就是創刊 號封面故事要告訴您的事。 每期雜誌都會刊登一些屬於我們自己的旅遊故事、新興流行 的目的地、讓人著迷及鼓舞人心的好地方，以及我們團隊的一 些冒險之旅。作為一間旅行社，意味住我們要有豐富的周遊列 國經驗，從而將一些我們認為您會喜歡探索的地方介紹給您。 我們有超過 17 年的旅遊經驗，而《奇程》就是讓我們分享自 己故事的地方，當中有著無限尚待被探索的目的地。 希望您們會喜歡閱讀《奇程》，就像我們喜歡創作它一樣。 樂悠遊團隊

A fun-filled family holiday in the elegance and comfort of The Bvlgari Hotel Beijing. Your precious family time in the idyllic setting of our river-front garden and terrace includes an array of kids activities and lavish breakfast, making for an authentic Italian luxury living experience.

Family Staycation Room Experience Valid until February 28, 2019 Included in this package: One night luxurious accommodation Daily breakfast for two adults and one child under 12 Special welcome amenities for kids upon arrival Complimentary extra bed for children under 12 Complimentary in-house kids activity (select upon arrival) Complimentary limousine service within a 3-kilometer radius (subject to availability) Late check out at 2pm (subject to availability)

For reservations or more information, please call +86 (10) 8555 8555 or email to beijing@bulgarihotels.com

Debuted in June 2018, the Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai soars above the Bund, offering panoramic views of Shanghai’s skyline from each of its 82 rooms and suites. Poised to be one of the city’s premier destinations, the Hotel is also home to the Il Ristorante - Niko Romito, which has been awarded its first Michelin Star after only three months from opening, and the Bao Li Xuan, serving exquisite Cantonese fine dining in the historic Chamber of Commerce Shanghai.

Amenity $100-value hotel credit per stay Upgrade to next room category subject to availability Valid until December 31, 2019

For reservations or more information, please call +86 (21) 3606 7788 or email to shanghai@bulgarihotels.com

CONTRIBUTORS 協力作者 Charlotte Travel owner Roger Harris has been travelling for 45 years, including overland through Africa and Asia, and stints living in South Africa, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Malaysia and now Hong Kong. His more adventurous exploits include Himalayan trekking and canoeing through Papua New Guinea, whilst work assignments have sent him to 15 countries across Asia. 樂悠遊創辦人 Roger Harris45 年來不斷周 遊列國，包括經陸路從非洲到亞洲，並曾旅居 南非、阿曼、沙特阿拉伯、馬來西亞及現居的 香港。因工作關係，他曾遊歷亞洲十五個城市， 當中的冒險之旅還包括徒步登上喜馬拉雅山 及乘獨木舟橫渡巴布亞新畿內亞。

“That Which is to be Wondered or Marvelled at”

PUBLISHER 出版

Charlotte Harris EDITOR AT LARGE 特約編輯

Roger Harris

MANAGING EDITOR 執行編輯

Nick Walton

nickwalton@artemiscomms.com CHINESE EDITOR 中文編輯

Ko Wong

ART DIRECTOR 美術總監

Alvin Cheng

MARKETING AND ADVERTISING 市場推廣及廣告

Alicia Espinal

marketing@charlottetravel.com.hk

Avid traveller and foodie Grace Brewer recently left Britain for the exoticism of Hong Kong, where she enjoys exploring the city’s vibrant wet markets and hidden beaches. In this issue, she discovers Colombo’s emerging food scene. 熱衷旅遊的美食家 Grace Brewer 最近離開 英國來到香港，在這個充滿異國情調的城市 裡，她最喜歡到充滿活力的街市及隱秘的海 灘遊覽。在創刊號中，她探索了科倫坡最新興 的飲食熱點。

Mirandus is owned and published by Charlotte Travel, 8 Hart Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Mirandus由香港尖沙咀赫德道8號 樂悠遊所擁有及出版。

charlottetravel.com.hk

Mirandus is produced by boutique custom publishing agency Artemis Communications Ltd. Mirandus 由出版機構 Artemis Communications Ltd.編輯發行。

www.artemiscomms.com

Nick Walton is a Hong Kong-based travel photojournalist who regularly explores the world’s most remote corners, from the Northwest Passage to South Georgia and points in between.

He’s made wine in Georgia, swum with caiman in the Amazon, camped on the ice in Antarctica, but never turns down a chance to explore vibrant cities in search of a good martini.

All rights reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively by Artemis Communications Ltd, its partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the production agency. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Artemis Communications Ltd and Charlotte Travel do not make any guarantees as to the accuracy of the information contained. 版權所有：相關版權及發行權由 Artemis Communications Ltd 及其合作夥伴、聯營公司及附 屬機構獨家擁有。所有出版文字及圖片均為出版機構之財產。 未經事先書面許可，均不得複製本著作物中的任何部份。本著 作物中所有資料均屬可靠來源，但 Artemis Communications Ltd 及樂悠遊並不就其資料的準確性及完整性作出任何保證。

Nick Walton 是一位駐港的攝影記者，經常 到全球最偏僻的角落遊歷，從極地的西北航 道至南喬治亞州，以及兩者之間的地方。他曾 到喬治亞州釀酒、在亞馬遜河與短吻鱷暢泳， 以及在南極洲的冰上露營，並且從不放棄任 何一個尋找城中最好馬天尼的機會。 The vibrant faces of the South Pacific. Photo: Roger Harris

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WELLNESS | 健康

GO WHERE YOU WANT TO Modern or classic. Elevated or enriched.

Travel the way you like and enjoy unique offerings from our diverse collection of hotels and resorts.

© 2018 MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MARRIOTT REWARDS, THE RITZ-CARLTON REWARDS, SPG, PREFERRED GUEST, AND ALL OTHER NAMES, MARKS AND LOGOS ARE THE TRADEMARKS OF MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL, INC., OR ITS AFFILIATES, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

CONTENTS

寰球掠影 10 SNAPSHOT CRUISING TO EXTREMES 極地啟航

遨遊天下 34 DESTINATION THE KINGDOM OF HAPPINESS 最幸福的國度．不丹

DAY IN 一日精華遊 24 AWASHINGTON D.C. 華盛頓的春天

16 INSIDE TRACK 覓食遊蹤

COLOMBO’S HOTTEST TABLES

科倫坡最潮美食

28 FOUNDERS

ADVENTURES 冒險足跡 A SOUTH SEAS SOJOURN

南太平洋巡航之旅

56 WELLNESS 洗滌心靈 A HOLISTIC HIGH

44 WILDLIFE, WILD LANDSCAPES AFRICA 狂野非洲

野生動物及原始風景

整體性之體驗

58 CT TRAVELLER CT 旅人

THE REAL SINGAPORE GIRL

新加坡超真女孩 6

M I R A N D U S

CT EXCLUSIVES | CT 禮遇

Travelling smart is all about knowing the right people. Enjoy a host of exclusive deals and specials when you book through Charlotte Travel.

精明的旅遊就是找到了對的朋友。 透過樂悠遊預訂行程，你將會享受到一系列 精彩的獨家優惠及禮遇。

Friends in the

Right Places 對的地方 對的朋友

Travel between Aman’s Sri Lankan resorts Amanwella and Amangalla and not only discover some of the country’s greatest treasures, but also enjoy daily breakfast, a guided tour of the Galle Fort, a visit to the Handunugoda tea plantation, a tour of Melgirigala Rock Temple, a 60-minute massage at Amanwella, and a sandalwood facial for her, and a traditional shave for him, when you book 5 nights for a minimum of two guests. Book 7 nights with a minimum of three people and you’ll also enjoy a daily choice of lunch or dinner (excluding alcoholic beverages). Blackout dates, terms and conditions apply. 穿梭安縵位於斯里蘭卡的兩所度假酒店 Amanwella 及 Amangalla，不僅可以欣 賞到當地一些最具特色風景，當最少兩人或以上的客人預訂五晚酒店，更可於每 天享用豐富早餐、參加歷史遺跡堡壘導賞團、參觀錫蘭茶園 Handunugoda Tea Plantatoin、穆爾奇里加勒石洞廟，於 Amanwella 享用 60 分鐘按摩，女士還可選女 士檀香面部護膚療程，男士則可享古法剃鬚服務。而最少三人預訂七晚，你還可於每 天享用午餐或晚餐（不包括含酒精飲料）。須受有關不適用日期、條款及細則約束。

Delve into the glamour of luxury rail travel with an exclusive deal on Belmond’s iconic British Pullman that sees a fourth guest travel for free. Valid when booking two double cabins on an overnight journey or four guests on a day trip for travel before March 31, 2019, you’ll enjoy spectacular scenery, a sumptuous afternoon tea and flowing champagne during this unique rail adventure.

Not valid on exceptional journeys such as Celebrity Chefs, Special Sporting or Social Events and day trips to Canterbury or Folkeston, and valid only with Bellini Club Amenities, while other consortia amenities do not apply. Blackout dates, terms and conditions apply.

Valid for departures between May 3 and July 30, 2019, book an Aqua Expeditions cruise aboard the luxurious Aqua Mekong, a fantastic journey through Cambodia and Vietnam on one of Asia’s most beautiful rivers, and enjoy 30% off the all-inclusive rate, not including on-cruise charges for professional services (spa treatments etc.); bar fees for alcoholic drinks other than complimentary wines and beers; and other additional on-board purchases (merchandise etc.). This offer is not valid in conjunction with other promotions or discounts and terms and conditions apply. 適用於 2019 年 5 月 3 日至 7 月 30 日期間出發，現凡預定 Aqua Expeditions 遊輪豪華的 Aqua Mekong 奇妙之旅，遊 覽亞洲最美麗河流之一，你將享有全單 7 折優惠，不包括郵輪 專業服務收費（如水療）、酒吧享用除免費葡萄酒及啤酒以外 的酒精飲品，以及其他船上額外消費（如精品店等）。 此優惠 不可與其他優惠或折扣同時使用，須受條款及細則約束。

乘坐貝爾蒙德集團極受歡迎的普爾曼列車探索豪華鐵路之旅 的魅力，你可享有獨家優惠：第四位同行客人將可免費乘坐。 於 2019 年 3 月 31 日前，預訂兩晚雙人艙或四人同行一日遊， 你將可在這趟獨特的鐵路探險中欣賞到壯麗精彩的風景、精 緻華麗的下午茶及源源不絕的香檳。優惠不適用於特別旅程， 如星級廚師之旅、特別體育或社交活動，以及來往坎特伯雷或 福克斯頓的一日遊，僅適用於 Bellini 俱樂部設施，其他合作 機構設施並不適用。須受有關不適用日期、條款及細則約束。 M I R A N D U S

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CALENDAR | 精彩時刻

WONDERFRUIT FESTIVAL Wonderfruit 環保藝術音樂節

Pattaya, Thailand | 芭堤雅, 泰國

13-16/12/2018

Thailand’s biggest arts and music celebration, the eco-friendly Wonderfruit Festival provides a fourday immersive experience of arts, music, wellness and adventure at Pattaya’s world-class Siam Country Club. This year’s lineup includes Thai-Swedish songstress Sirintip, throat-singers Huun Huur Tu, and drum and bass pioneer Goldie and the Ensemble, who will boost the energy of the event with packed performances. Also look out for yoga and Muay Thai classes and soulful street food.

泰國最大型的環保藝術音樂節 Wonderfruit，提供 為期四天的精彩藝術、音樂、健康及娛樂體驗，在 芭堤雅世界級的暹羅鄉村俱樂部舉行。今年的陣容 包括泰國瑞典混血女歌手 Sirintip、喉音歌手 Huun Huur Tu，以及鼓兼低音結他好手 Goldie and the Ensemble，他們會透過精彩絕倫的表演將活動氣氛 推至最高峰。音樂節期間還設有瑜伽及泰拳課程，以 及美味的街頭小食。

BAGAN TEMPLE MARATHON

WINTERFEST

Bagan, Myanmar | 蒲甘, 緬典

Yas Island, Abu Dhabi | 亞斯島，亞布扎比

冬季嘉年華

蒲甘寺馬拉松

24/11/2018

14/12/2018

If you thrive at an athletic challenge, the Bagan Temple Marathon combines a world-class running race with the rich history of central Burma, home to over 2,000 temples, pagodas and stupas. Combining a 10km fun run, a half marathon and a full marathon that’s sure to appeal to runners from across Asia, the race is perfect for travellers that like combining culture with cardio.

Ferrari World Abu Dhabi’s Winterfest is returning this year to dazzle visitors with snow-filled family fun. With ice-skating shows, snow tube slides, and a ‘Christmas elf school’, not to mention unlimited park access to rides and attractions, this celebration is sure to have you feeling festive despite the rather balmy temperature of winter in the desert.

如果你希望能藉住運動比賽而茁壯成長，蒲甘寺馬拉松賽就 最適合你！這比賽將世界級跑步比賽，以及有超過 2,000 座 寺廟、寶塔及佛塔的緬甸中部豐富歷史合而為一。比賽包括有 10 公里、半程馬拉松及全程馬拉松，必定會吸引來自亞洲各 地的跑手，且非常適合喜歡將文化與運動相結合的旅行家。

阿布扎比法拉利世界的冬季嘉年華今年載譽歸來，為遊客帶 來充滿歡樂的家庭娛樂活動。除了滑冰表演、雪道滑梯及「聖 誕精靈學校」外，還設有可無限玩機動遊戲及景點的主題公 園。儘管沙漠冬季的溫度仍相當炎熱，但這個慶祝活動必定 能讓你感到濃厚的節日氣氛。

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CALENDAR | 精彩時刻

JUNKANOO PARADE 賈卡努巡遊

Nassau, Bahamas | 拿騷，巴哈馬

26/12/2018- 1/1/2019 Set in the capital city of Nassau on New Providence Island, the recently-expanded Junkanoo Parade is the National Festival of The Bahamas with its origins dating back to the days of slavery in the 18th century. A significant street parade featuring cultural music and dances, this historic event celebrates national pride and showcases Bahamian art and heritage. Watch masked marching bands in colourful Igbo costumes and massive floats move along Bay Street in the city’s downtown area, with the rhythmic sound of brass instruments and goatskin drums playing in the background. 於新普羅維登斯島首都拿騷舉行的賈 卡努巡遊，是巴哈馬的國家慶典，起源 可追溯至 18 世紀的奴隸制時代。這場 以文化音樂及舞蹈為主題的街頭巡遊， 是巴哈馬歷史性的活動，並且是國家的 驕傲及展示藝術及文化遺產的機會。戴 上面具及穿上華麗七彩伊博服飾的隊 伍，會隨大型花車沿海灣街一直巡遊至 市中心，伴隨著銅管樂器及山羊皮鼓的 音樂聲，令氣氛高漲。

CARNIVAL OF BINCHE 班什狂歡節

Binche, Belgium | 班什，比利時

5/3/2019 A three-day celebration preceding Ash Wednesday, the Unescorecognised Carnival of Binche is a folkloric event that originated in the 14th centur y. On Shrove Tuesday, up to a thousand Gilles, dressed in joker costumes, along with peasants, pierrots and harlequins, paint the streets with colour and star t a march to the rhythm of drums and viola along the Grand Place in the early hours. Spare a hand to catch oranges thrown by parade characters for good luck. Pre-carnival activities include drum rehearsals, orchestral per formances, and gala balls. 由聯合國教科文組織認可，聖灰星期三前為期三天的慶祝活動「班什狂歡節」，是 一個起源於 14 世紀的民間活動。於懺悔星期二，過千名吉勒斯人會盛裝穿上小丑 服飾，與農民及丑角等，在街道上塗上七彩顏色，並隨著鼓的節奏及中提琴聲向大 廣場進發。謹記要騰空雙手，接住巡遊表演者拋出象徵幸運的橘子。狂歡節前的活 動就包括鼓綵排、管弦樂表演及慶祝舞會。 M I R A N D U S

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

CRUISING TO

EXTREMES

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

極 地 啟 航

Greenland is a formidable destination but also one that’s increasingly seducing adventurous cruisers seeking a destination of extremes, discovers Roger Harris. 格陵蘭，總有一股震懾威力。 就算這目的地是多麼令人畏 懼，也無間斷地吸引著，甚至 有越來越多的極地巡洋艦冒 險來征服它。 圖、文 Roger Harris

E

xperiencing Greenland – and the Arctic - engenders a new perspective of the world. It’s hard to understand how human life can survive here, in such a stunningly-beautiful yet terrifyingly-harsh environment. The world’s largest island (discounting Australia and Antarctica, which are regarded as continents), but with a population of only 56,000, Greenland is physically part of the North American landmass, but has always been politically associated with Europe.

Currently an autonomous constituent country within the Kingdom of Denmark, Greenland has experienced colonial relationships with both Norway and Iceland through its rich history.

More than 80 percent of this vast destination is covered by ice – in some places 10 kilometers thick – and its population can be found in the towns and settlements that line its coast, which is largely ice-free. Without roads connecting the towns, travel and transportation in Greenland is dominated by sea and air, making cruising around the south and west coast, where most of the population live, the ideal way to experience the remarkable landscapes and cultures of this unique but extreme locale.

格陵蘭的體驗之旅 — 當然還有北極 — 絕對是 開拓了人類史上一個嶄新的世界觀。在如此一處 美得讓人驚艷且極惡劣的環境下，很難想像到 人類是如何生存下去。在這個全球最大的島嶼 格陵蘭上（除被視為洲的澳洲及南極洲之外）， 人口卻只有 5.6 萬人，地理上它是屬於北美洲一 部份，但政治上卻一直與歐洲有聯繫。目前格陵 蘭是屬於丹麥境內的一個自治組織國家，但追 溯其悠久的歷史，她曾經與挪威及冰島建立了殖 民關係。在這個遼闊的國家上，超過百分之八十 的土地是被冰覆蓋，甚至逾一萬米厚，所以大部 份人會選舉聚居在沿海沒冰的地方。島上的城 鎮也沒有道路連接，來往格陵蘭方法唯有靠海 路或空路，因此當地的南岸及西岸會有較多人聚 居，海上交通也相對繁榮熱鬧，是體驗這個獨特 極地美景及文化的最佳地方。

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

Silversea’s purpose-built Silver Explorer expedition cruise ship was specifically designed for navigating waters in some of the world’s most remote destinations, including both polar regions.

A strengthened hull with a 1A Lloyd’s Register ice-class notation for passenger vessels enables the ship to safely push through ice floes. 為了世上最偏遠地區的探索之 旅，包括南北兩極等地，銀海郵輪 特意設計了專業探險船銀海探索 號。這艘載客郵輪船身堅固，更 獲得英國 Lloyd’s Register 冰級 標誌的 1A 評級，能安全地在浮 冰間航行。

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

From the prow of the Silver Explorer, passengers enjoy a 270-degree view of the spectacular fjord system of Prince Christian Sound, near Greenland’s southern tip.

Surrounded by steep mountains, some reaching over 7,200 feet, the fjord is famed for its numerous glaciers, which regularly calve into the icy waters below. 登上銀海探索號，乘客可以 270 度欣賞到格陵蘭南 端普林斯基督灣的壯觀的海峽景色。峽灣四周也被 陡峭的山脈環繞著，有些更高達 7,200 呎，以其眾多 的冰川而聞名，並會定期崩塌到山腳冰冷的水中。

The tiny settlement of Aappilattoq, located on Prince Christian Sound, is virtually inaccessible by land, yet it’s home to 130 inhabitants, a school, a church and a helipad. The village takes its name for the “red” mountain that rises behind it. 位於普林斯基督灣附近的西南部漁村，是一處幾乎 無法靠陸路進入的小型聚居點。小村莊的名字來自 它背後那高聳入雲的「紅山」，而當地有 130 名居民， 並設有一所學校、一座教堂及一個直升機停機坪。

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SNAPSHOT | 寰球掠影

The Aappilattoq church choir renders a selection of hymns to entertain newly arrived passengers from the Silver Explorer. The tiny town’s population doubles for the day when expedition ships like the Explorer arrive.

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西南部漁村的教堂合唱團會詠唱讚美詩，迎接乘 坐銀海探索號抵埗的旅客，探索號也瞬即為小鎮 帶來多一倍的人口。

The few cruise ships which reach the remote port of Aappilattoq offer an occasion for the community to come together, share its heritage and folklore, and connect with guests from around the world. 那些千里迢迢來到這偏遠港口的遊輪，為這個社區增添了一份凝聚力，以及 分享當地傳統及習俗的好機會，與來自世界各地的旅客緊密聯繫。鎮上的 一位長老正在歡迎抵達西南部漁村的旅客。

The Silver Explorer carries 12 Zodiac inflatables for daily, guided on-shore excursions, allowing passengers the chance to interact with and learn more about this unique ecosystem in the company of experienced naturalists, who provide local guidance and more in-depth interpretation during evening lectures. 銀海探索號備有 12 艘 Zodiac 橡皮艇，供每日的岸上導賞團之用，讓遊客 有機會與經驗豐富的自然生態專家互動，亦設有晚間講座指導及講解，讓 他們更深入了解這裡的獨特生態系統。

Remote Greenlandic communities like Aappilattoq survive on hunting and fishing.

Increasingly, visits from expeditionary cruise ships offer a valuable source of income for settlements. Here, a village spokesperson guides guests through life in remote Southern Greenland. 像西南部漁村這些位於格陵蘭偏遠地區的小村 莊，是依靠狩獵及捕魚維生，而探索船的到訪也 為這地區提供了寶貴的收入來源。這裡的一位 村莊發言人，為旅客講解如何在偏遠的格陵蘭南 部生活。

A fun feature of life onboard Silver Explorer is dining at the hot-rocks outdoor restaurant, where passengers cook their own steaks or seafood on pre-heated volcanic slabs. Warm clothing is essential. 其中一個在銀海探索號的有趣活動，就是讓遊客在戶外餐廳「熱岩」裡， 即席在預熱的火山岩石板上烹調自己的牛扒或海鮮，但謹記要穿上保暖衣 物。 M I R A N D U S

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INSIDE TRACK | 覓食遊蹤

TABLES

by the

灣畔風味

SEA

The brainchild of celebrity chef Dharshan Munidasa and Sri 位於科倫坡新開業的香格里拉大酒店四樓的 Lankan actress Jacqueline Fernandez, Kaema Sutra is a ‘new Kaema Sutra，是由星級大廚 Dharshan Munidasa age’ Sri Lankan restaurant located on the fourth floor of the 及斯里蘭卡女星 Jacqueline Fernandez 聯手創立， newly-opened Shangri-La Hotel. Chef Dharshan is devoted 主打創意斯里蘭卡美食，為本地菜開展了一個新時 to the evolution of Sri Lankan cuisine, and to incorporating 代。大廚 Dharshan 致力推動斯里蘭卡菜發展，將 both age-old indigenous and colonial culinary influences into his 古老的傳統本土與富殖民地風格的烹調技術合二為 dishes, making the tables on the restaurant’s elegant terrace some 一，融入菜式之中，幻化成餐桌上一頓極具人氣的 of the hottest tickets in town. Menu highlights 優雅盛宴。菜單中讓人垂涎欲 滴的菜式就包括以刺身等級的 include A La Minute Tuna Curry made with Take a peek past the bustling 鮪魚製成的鮪魚黑咖哩、蟹肉炒 sashimi grade tuna; Crab Kottu; and the Twomarkets and colonial 甩餅，以及一款和可麗餅相似的 Egg Hopper, a crepe-like Sri Lankan staple.

Serving up a storm on one of the city’s best beaches, located in picturesque Mount Lavinia, Sugar Beach has the vibe of a trendy beach club, with al fresco and indoor dining options. Perfect for evening sundowners, the drinks menu lists everything from organic teas and local coffee through to classic beachside cocktails, many available in pitchers. The food menu is simplistic yet satisfying, with the likes of healthy roast pumpkin salad; Sri Lankan crab curry with roast paan; and dukkha-crusted poached eggs available from brunch through to dinner.

architecture of Sri Lanka’s historic capital to discover one of the region’s emerging culinary destinations. Here’s some of Colombo’s hottest tables for travelling foodies.

By Grace Brewer

來到斯里蘭卡歷史悠久的首都，遊 走在繁華熱鬧的市場與富殖民地 色彩的建築群之中，探索新興的飲 食熱點。就讓各位來遊覽的美食 家們，放眼細味一下科倫坡最熱門 的餐飲勝地吧！ 文：Grace Brewer

Another new-comer, Epicure brings a touch of contemporary elegance to Colombo’s dining scene, with multi-national cuisine that incorporates both Mediterranean and bold Asian flavours.

Favourites from the diverse menu include the baked chicken; Neapolitan n’duja cured sausage with quinoa, arugula and sour cream; and a delectable salad of yellow fin tuna, granny smith apple, coconut, mango, shallots, and cucumber.

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斯里蘭卡主食，雙蛋米可麗餅。 Sugar Beach 坐落於風景如畫 的拉維尼亞山上，擁有城中最佳 的海灘之一，並設有戶外及室內 用餐區，四周也洋溢住一片繽紛 熱鬧的沙灘俱樂部氣氛。餐飲包 括有機茶、地道咖啡及經典海濱 雞尾酒等，日落時份來喝一杯就 最適合不過。菜式雖走簡約路 線，卻讓人非常滿足，喜歡健康 的可試試烤南瓜沙律；還有斯里 蘭卡咖哩蟹伴烤檳榔，以及由早 午餐到晚餐也可以享用的水煮 蛋伴杜卡碎。

另一間新登場的 Epicure，就揉 合了鮮明大膽的地中海及亞洲風 味，為科倫坡餐飲界帶來了一絲絲摩登優雅感覺。菜 單款式多樣化，包括有烤雞肉、那不勒斯醃辣肉腸配 酸忌廉藜麥芝麻菜，還有美味的黃鰭鮪魚沙律伴澳 洲青蘋果、椰子、芒果、乾蔥及青瓜，惹味無窮。

Feel life´s potential Experience a complete wellness journey at Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa, Koh Samui, and restore your health and vitality with one of our inclusive programs

info@kamalaya.com | www.kamalaya.com | Tel: M I R+ A66 N (0) D U77 S 429 17800

ENCOUNTERS | 開闢視野

Yacht Fever 遊艇狂熱 Small cruise fans can now book their berth on the hotly-anticipated first vessel of the Ritz Carlton Yacht Collection, which is set to launch in February 2020. The new ship, modelled on a contemporary super yacht, will offer a wide range of initial itineraries, each of which delve into the local culture at each port.

The first of three 149-suite vessels planned, the The Ritz-Carlton Yacht will travel to both conventional and emerging destinations, including the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, the Caribbean, Latin America, Canada and the Northeastern United States, with voyages ranging from seven to ten nights

Raja Reprieve 四王群島 Explore exotic Raja Ampat in style aboard the newly-launched Prana by Atzaro, the world’s largest phinisi charter yacht. At just over 55-metres in length, this luxurious, hand-built yacht is constructed entirely from ironwood and teak, using timeless boat-building techniques.

Operated by Ibiza’s Atzaro Group, which owns one of the Spanish island’s leading luxury spa hotels, the Prana boasts nine elegant ensuite staterooms, as well as spacious outdoor decks, king size daybeds, a yoga pavilion that doubles as an open-air cinema, a luxury spa, and a water sports deck. A crew of 18 will ensure guests want for nothing as they cruise some of the world’s most beautiful heritage sites, including Komodo National Park, and the prehistoric caves and primordial tribes on the 1,500 islands that make up Raja Ampat, an Indonesian archipelago off the northwest tip of West Papua comprising hundreds of jungle-covered islands famed for their marine life.

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designed to include world-class events and festivals, from the Monaco Grand Prix to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo. 期待已久，小型郵輪愛好者現在終可以預訂將於 2020 年 2 月推出的麗思卡爾頓遊艇系列中的第一 艘船。這艘以當代超級遊艇作藍本的全新郵輪，啟 航路線覆蓋多個景點，深入了解當地文化。首航的麗 思卡爾頓遊艇是三艘設有 149 間套房的其中一艘， 遊覽的地點集傳統及新意於一身，包括地中海、北歐、 加勒比海、拉丁美洲、加拿大及美國東北部，航程由 七晚至十晚不等，包括世界級活動及慶典，由摩納哥 大獎賽以至愛丁堡軍樂隊表演也有，非常豐富。

乘坐 Atzaro 最新推出的全球最大比尼西租賃遊艇 Prana，探索極富異國情調的印尼四王群島，這艘豪 華的手造遊艇長達 55 米，全部採用鐵木及柚木製造， 以及傳統的造船技術。由擁有西班牙島一間著名豪華 溫泉酒店的伊比沙島 Atzaro 集團設計，Prana 遊艇 設有九間高雅套房，以及寬敞的戶外甲板、特大尺寸 梳化床、一個兼用作露天電影院的瑜伽館、頂級水療 浴及水上運動甲板。18 名船員會在船上提供殷勤親 切的服務，滿足客人所需。遊艇將會到世界上最美麗 歷史遺跡遊覽，包括科莫多國家公園，以及由 1500 個島嶼上的史前洞穴及原始部落組成的四王群島。

ENCOUNTERS | 開闢視野

Bund Belle 瑰麗外灘 Fashionistas will love the new Bulgari Hotel Shanghai, which has opened just minutes from the iconic Bund. Part of the Suhe Creek project, the hotel boasts stunning Pudong panoramas from its 82 Patricia Viel-designed guest rooms, which include 19 luxurious suites. Balancing the heritage architecture of the century-old Chamber of Commerce Shanghai building with the contemporary lines of a 48-floor tower created by Italian firm Antonio Citterio, the Bulgari is also home to chic rooftop eatery Il Restorante – Niko Romito and Il Bar, as well as exquisite Cantonese fare at Bao Li Xuan, and a 2,000sqm Bulgari Spa and fitness centre. 時尚達人必定會愛上，與著名上海外灘僅幾分鐘路程的全新上海寶格麗酒店。作為華僑 城蘇河灣項目的一部分，酒店擁有 82 間由 Patricia Viel 設計的客房，當中 19 間豪華套房 更擁有讓人驚嘆的浦東全景。毗鄰有百年歷史的傳統上海總商會大樓，與意大利設計公 司 Antonio Citterio 所設計的 48 層現代化大樓互相輝映。寶格麗酒店的頂樓也是時尚別 緻的餐廳 Il Restorante – Niko Romito 及 Il Bar 的所在地，以及精緻粵菜廳寶麗軒與佔 地 2000 平方米的寶格麗水療及健身中心。

Travelling in Style 嶄新空中體驗 Enjoy Hong Kong Airlines’ ever-expanding network in style with the arrival of the carrier’s new business class, available on its new Airbus A350 aircraft. With 78-inch long seats designed by Rockwell Collins that were voted by travellers as best in the world, the new business class cabin has a 1-2-1 configuration, offering every passenger aisle access. Seats boast a new inflight entertainment system, a 17-inch personal monitor, and are complemented by new tableware, Truly Hong Kong-themed amenity kits, specially-designed bedding, and menus

by Hong Kong chef Gabriel Choy and San Francisco’s Chris Cosentino. 隨著最新型空中巴士 A350 在香港航空啟 航，客機的商務艙空間亦大增，讓乘客可於 同時享受其不斷擴展的飛行網絡。由羅克 韋爾柯林斯設計的 78 吋長座位，也被旅行 家評選為世界上最佳機艙座位。新的商務 艙是 1-2-1 間格，為每位乘客預留更闊的通 道空間。座椅擁有全新的機上娛樂系統，17 吋個人顯示屏幕，以及全新餐具、地道香港 主題的旅行套裝、特別設計的床上用品， 以及香港名廚蔡家富及三藩市名廚 Chris Cosentino 設計的精美菜單。

Travel company the Intrepid Group has released a minidocumentary shedding light on the darker side of elephant riding to coincide with World Elephant Day. In 2014, Intrepid Group was the first travel company to ban elephant rides following research collaboration with World Animal Protection, with many in the travel industry now followed suit and the goal of the confronting documentary, which highlights the practice of beating and starvation to make the elephants submissive for human rides, is to educate travellers of this barbaric practice. The documentary can be viewed at youtu.be/ BbZvouw6GYo 為配合世界大象日，旅行社 Intrepid Group 發佈了一段紀錄短片，揭示 騎大象活動的黑暗一面。 2014 年， Intrepid Group 與世界動物保護協 會合作研究後，成為第一間禁止騎大 象的旅行社，旅遊界有很多公司也緊 隨其後參與，以這段反抗暴行的紀 錄片為目標，反對以鞭打或拒絕餵食 而讓大象順從人類的遊樂設施，並 讓旅行家了解更多這種野蠻的暴行。 紀錄片可在以下連結觀看 youtu. be/BbZvouw6GYo。

Trending in Travel 旅遊新趨勢

Botswana’s reputation as a safe haven for endangered animals has taken a hit after 90 elephant carcasses were recently found in the Okavango Delta during an aerial survey by scientists from Elephants Without Borders and Botswana’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks.

The elephant’s tusks had been hacked off in what is believed to be one of Africa’s worst mass poaching sprees.

Conservationists cite the recent stripping of arms from the country’s wildlife department. 最近，由大象無國界組織的科學家及 博茨瓦納野生動物及國家公園保護 部門的一項空中調查，在奧卡萬戈三 角洲發現了 90 隻大象屍體，令博茨 瓦納作為瀕危動物避難所的美譽受 到評擊。大象的象牙被砍掉，更被認 為是非洲最嚴重的大規模偷獵行為 之一。自然資源保護學者最近向當地 野生動物部門尋求援助。

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ENCOUNTERS | 開闢視野

Jet Bound Traveller 私人飛機無憂之旅 Enjoy the best of both worlds with the new Anantara Private Jet Experience, an incredible voyage of discovery that combines stays at two luxurious retreats with the luxury and convenience of private jet transportation on either a Citation X or Gulfstream V. Offered in conjunction with bespoke aviation specialists Mjets, the new adventure includes a flight from Bangkok to Colombo, where you’ll embark on an Ayurvedic wellness journey, tackle the island’s top surf breaks, and dine on sustainably sourced cuisine at Anantara Peace Haven Resort, on Sri Lanka’s southern shore. Then journey on to the spectacular Maldives, where you’ll swap your jet for a seaplane for the 45-minute flight to the luxurious Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas, and the opportunity to explore a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, snorkel with mantas and whale sharks,

and stargaze at the only observatory in the southern Indian Ocean. 乘坐安納塔拉酒店及度假村的全新私人飛機歷奇之 旅，將一個地區最受歡迎的兩個目的地串連一起。以 豪華及方便的私人飛機 Citation X 或 Gulfstream V 作交通工具，安納塔拉私人飛機體驗是一個結合 了兩處豪華度假勝地的精彩探索之旅。並與度身訂 造的航空專家 Mjets 合作，提供嶄新冒險之旅，包括 由曼谷飛往科倫坡。到埗後，一輛豪華轎車將會帶你 前往位於斯里蘭卡南岸的私人別墅安納塔拉世外桃 源度假村。在這裡，你可以展開阿育吠陀健康之旅、 體驗島上最熱門的衝浪活動，並可享無限提供的美 食。然後再前往壯麗的馬爾代夫，這趟旅程將會換上 水上飛機，45 分鐘後便到達豪華的馬爾代夫克哈瓦 島安納塔拉別墅，還有機會到聯合國教科文組織的 生物保護區探索，一嚐與魔鬼魚及鯨鯊浮潛，以及到 南印度洋上唯一的天文台觀星。

Your New Maldivian Hideaway 全新馬爾代夫度假勝地 One of the most exciting new openings for the Maldives, Joali has opened in the mesmerising Raa Atoll, bringing a new twist to tropical luxury in the Indian Ocean. With just 73 private beach and water villas and a clutch of sublime residences designed by Autoban and Tokyo’s Studio Slitt, rooms feature insightful in-room libraries, cavernous bathrooms and luxurious textiles, in keeping with the locale. A 45-minute seaplane ride from the capital Male, the new resort is a true gem; be sure to leave time for Japanese and Peruvian cuisine at the Noriyoshi Muramatsu-designed Saoke restaurant; or an indulgent massage at the Joali Spa by ESPA. 要數馬爾代夫最讓人興奮的新登場度假酒店？必定 非魯阿環礁的 Joali 莫屬，也為印度洋的熱帶奢華區 帶來了新變化。酒店擁有 73 個私人海灘及水上別墅， 以及由 Autoban 及 Tokyo’s Studio Slitt 設計的 20

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頂級豪華住宅群，每間客房也設有室內圖書館、超級 寬敞的浴室及頂級的毛巾用品，貫徹當地的奢華風 格。新的度假酒店距離首都馬累只有 45 分鐘的水上 飛機航程，是絕佳的旅遊勝地。謹記要預留時間，在 日本餐廳設計大師 Noriyoshi Muramatsu 所設計 的 Saoke 餐廳品嚐日本及秘魯美食；或在 Joali Spa

by ESPA 中享受舒適的按摩體驗。

WELLNESS | 健康

3-Nights, 4-Nights & 7-Nights charters available from

USD 83,300

Most exclusive staff to guest ratio of

All excursions limited to

Ergonomic, custom-design

on the river

guests per guide

private tenders

MICE & CHARTER cruises with Aqua Expeditions

Aqua Expeditions’ private charter cruises: Aqua Mekong & Aria Amazon will perfect your event with a cruise experience perfectly balanced with relaxation, comfort, cultural

Meetings, incentives, conferences, exhibitions

learning and active adventure.

Milestone birthdays Family reunions

Your group will be entertained in style with

College reunions

5-star cuisine and a 1:1 staff-to-guest ratio,

Bachelor or bachelorette parties Contact us at +65 62704002 (Europe & Asia Pacific) +511 434 5544 (North and South America) Reservations@aquaexpeditions.com

along with full access to our infinity pool, spacious lounges and onboard massage facilities for your special guests, while also enjoying twice daily offboard excursions, including biking, kayaking, fishing, swimming, wildlife spotting and more!

Interconnecting suites available

World class dining by celebrity chefs

Daily excursions

Sleek and contemporary design

Private skiffs and guides

Wildlife spotting

www.aquaexpeditions.com

M I R A N D U S

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ENCOUNTERS | 開闢視野

Cruising for Millennials 千禧世代啟航 You may think cruising is for the silver set but U by Uniworld, a new cruise concept launching later this year, is set to change all that. With two as-yet unnamed vessels in the works, the new river cruising brand is completely geared towards (and strictly limited to) travellers aged between 21 and 45, which is a departure from the usual Uniworld cruiser, who has an average age of 50. The brand’s two vessels will feature chic staterooms with bunk beds to help travellers keep down costs, and options to opt for a room mate to avoid single supplements. A series of insightful excursions, called U Time, will also cater to younger travellers, while onboard expect everything from Silent Discoes (when you listen to music on headphones) and wine-paired painting sessions, to cocktail classes and yoga.

Dining will also be inspired by the destinations and will include street food additions. Initial eight-day itineraries will focus on central and western Europe. 你可能會認為郵輪只適合銀髮一代，但 U by Uniworld 於今年稍後時間推出的新遊輪概念，將會 改變這一切。雖然兩艘尚未命名的船隻仍在建造中， 新的海上之旅是主攻（並嚴格限制）21 歲至 45 歲 的旅客，與一般 Uniworld 郵輪目標旅客平均年齡為 50 歲有所不同。兩艘新船將會有設置了雙層床的時 尚特等艙，為旅行家減輕成本，以及可選同房房客， 避免行程孤獨。一系列名為 U Time 的精彩遊覽活 動，也將迎合年輕旅客需求，由靜音的士高舞會、葡 萄酒繪畫班、雞尾酒課程及瑜伽班也有。餐飲方面也 會與目的地配合，並包括街頭小食。啟航的八天行程 將會集中於中歐和西歐地區。

Go Wild 野外歷奇 One of Asia’s most anticipated retreats, Shinta Mani Wild opens in December, nestled in the ancient rainforests of northern Cambodia.

Designed by Bill Bensley as part of his new signature hotel collectio – Shinta Mani Wild – Bensley Collection offers a sublime tented camping experience in the Southern Cardamom National Park, one of the country’s most untouched and vital wildlife corridors.

Arrive in style via a thrilling 350-meter long zip line before checking into one of 15 custom-built tents, nestled on the banks of a rushing river. The active can explore the complex network of waterways aboard a Bensley-designed expedition vessel, or help anti-poaching teams and local researchers, while those looking for respite will find it at the Boulders Spa, and with the sustainable and foraged cuisine of chef Kien Wagner. 作為亞洲最令人期待的度假勝地之一 — 位於柬埔寨 北部古老雨林中的 Shinta Mani Wild 將於12 月開業。 22

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酒店由比爾本斯利設計，更是他的全新風格酒店項目 中的一部份。Shinta Mani Wild 在豆蔻山國家公園 南部，為旅客提供一次壯觀的帳篷露營體驗，也是當 地最原始及最重要的野生動物出沒的地帶。入住方法 還非常特別，你要以坐落在湍急河岸上的 350 米長 驚險飛索前往 15 個特製的帳篷。好動的旅客還可乘 坐由 Bensley 設計的探險船，到複雜的水道探索，或 是幫助反偷獵團隊及當地的研究人員。而愛靜之士則 可以在 Boulders Spa 舒展身心，並享用由廚師 Kien Wagner 炮製的永續美食。

ENCOUNTERS | 經歷

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A DAY IN | 一日精華遊

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A DAY IN | 一日精華遊

SPRING IN THE CAPITAL

首 都 的 春 天 The US capital is best known for its iconic monuments and world-class museums, but there’s more to Washington D.C. than ancient history, discovers Nick Walton.

美國首都華盛頓以其富標誌性的紀念碑及世界級 的博物館聞名於世，但這城市悠長 深遠的歷史其 實也不容忽視。撰文︰ Nick Walto n

- 8.30pm -

Arrive on the new direct Cathay Pacific service between Hong Kong and Washington D.C.’s Dulles International Airport. The new four-weekly flights – the longest in CX’s network at 13,122 kilometers – are operated using the airline’s brand new A3501000 aircraft and takes just under 18 hours. www.cathaypacific.com

- 晚上 8 時 30 分 乘坐香港國泰航空最新直航航線，由香港飛抵華盛頓杜勒斯國際機場。國 泰提供每週四班航班的全新航線，全長 13,122 公里，是其飛行航點中路線 最長的航線，並會由全新的 A350-1000 客機營運，飛行時間少於 18 小時。 M I R A N D U S

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A DAY IN | 一日精華遊

- 10pm -

Check into one of Washington D.C.’s most stylish addresses, the Rosewood, located in historic Georgetown. This regal retreat, which reopens this Spring after major renovations, is perched beside the C&O Canal at the heart of one of the city’s most coveted precincts and boasts just 49 guest rooms and suites. Be sure to fuel up at the elegant Grill Room, the restaurant’s fine dining restaurant, acclaimed for its lingering Sunday brunches, or find a cozy corner at Rye Bar, home to the city’s finest selection of its namesake whiskey. In the warmer months, explore the capital on a hotel bicycle before cooling off at the chic Rooftop Bar & Lounge and infinity pool. rosewoodhotels.com

- 晚上 10 時 入住華盛頓最時尚熱點之一、位於歷史悠久喬治 城的 Rosewood 酒店。這座酒店剛在今個春天 完成重修，它擁有 49 間客房及套房的豪華度假 村，坐落於 C ＆ O 運河旁邊，是城中最讓人夢 寐以求的中心點之一。務必要到酒店中最華麗優 雅的高級餐廳 Grill Room 享用美食，這裡以其 悠閒的週日早午餐馳名。或可到 Rye 酒吧找個舒 適的角落暢飲，這兒更是當地最好的同名威士忌 產地。在較和暖的月份，在時尚別緻的 Rooftop Bar ＆ Lounge 以及無邊際泳池享受日光浴前， 你還可用酒店提供的單車來個探索首都之旅。 rosewoodhotels.com

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Begin your explorations close to home with a spot of retail therapy in Georgetown, which has everything 26

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from designer fashion brands at Alice & Olivia, Relish, Rag & Bone and Billy Reid; and beauty products at the original Bluemercury on M Street; to hand-picked favourites curated by local style maven Marlene Hu Aldaba at Hu’s Wear and Hu’s Shoes; and spring essentials at Madewell.

Afterwards, head for the waterfront hotspot of Fiola Mare for executive chef Anton Bolling’s take on timeless Italian and Mediterranean seafood – try the Adriatic Seafood Brodetto with black bass, branzino, seabream, langoustine and a saffron jus. fiolamaredc.com

- 早上 11 時 30 分 由喬治城的零售店展開你對這區的探索，當 中包括有著名設計師的時裝品牌，如 Alice ＆ Olivia、Relish、Rag ＆ Bone 及 Billy Reid 等； M 街 Bluemercury 總店的美容產品；親自在由 當地時裝界代表人物 Marlene Hu Aldaba 所創 辦的 Hu's Wear 及 Hu's Shoes 中挑選你最喜 愛的產品，並在 Madewell 選購春季的必需品。 然後，前往海濱熱點 Fiola Mare，品嚐行政總廚 Anton Bolling 所炮製的經典意大利及地中海海 鮮大餐，如用上黑鱸魚、海鱸魚、小龍蝦及藏紅 花熬成的亞德里亞海海鮮湯。fiolamaredc.com

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No matter the season, you can’t visit Washington D.C. without visiting one of the Smithsonian museums, most famous of which is the National Museum of Natural History. Opened in 1910, the green-domed museum on the National Mall was among the first Smithsonian buildings constructed exclusively to house national collections and research

A DAY IN | 一日精華遊

Outbreak: Epidemics in a Connected World. naturalhistory.si.edu

- 下午 2 時 無論任何季節，如沒有到史密森尼博物館群參觀 過，也不算來過華盛頓，這博物館群就包括了當 地最著名的國家自然歷史博物館。這座位於國家 廣場上的綠色圓頂博物館於 1910 年正式開放， 是史密森尼博物館群中第一座專門用作收藏國 家藝術品及研究設施的館。目前展覽包括有《獨 角鯨：揭示北極傳說》，以及《全球相互聯繫的 流行疫症大爆發》。naturalhistor y.si.edu

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Head for The Wharf, a US$2.5 billion development on the Potomac’s historic Southwest Waterfront that’s home to restaurants, hotels, bars and exhibition spaces. Start off at the newest outlet of Rappahannock Oyster Bar, regarded as one of the best in the US. Here you can match oysters from Chesapeake Bay with wines from Oregon and the Russian River Valley or a locally-brewed Right Proper Pale Ale while rubbing shoulders with chic Washingtonians.

- 下午 5 時 前往波托馬克歷史悠久的西南海濱碼頭 The Whar f，這裡是個價值 25 億美元的開發項目， 也是各大餐館、酒店、酒吧及展覽場所的所在地。 旅程就從 Rappahannock Oyster Bar 的最新 分店開始，亦是美國人公認為最好的餐廳之一。 在這裡，你可以選擇以切薩皮克灣的生蠔，配搭 來自俄勒岡及俄羅斯河谷的葡萄酒，或與熱情 的華盛頓人一起品嚐當地釀造的 Right Proper Pale Ale。

- 7pm -

You won’t have to roam far for something more substantial. Already one of the hottest tables in town (so be sure to book ahead), Requin by award-winning restauranteur Mike Isabella serves up modern French fare created by executive chef Michael Rafidi and paired with spectacular riverfront views. The Moules Marnieres with Pei mussels, linguica sausage, and crab fat butter is a spring sensation. requinbymic.com

- 晚上 7 時 毋須四處遊盪，你便能一嚐當地最炙手可熱的 人氣餐廳美食。坐擁壯觀河濱景觀的 Requin， 由屢獲殊榮的老闆邁克爾伊莎貝拉創辦，並由行 政總廚邁克爾拉菲迪主理的現代法式佳餚，早 已成為城中最熱門的餐廳之一（所以一定要提前 預訂）。Moules Marnieres 包括有 Pei 青口、 linguica 香腸及蟹黃，也洋溢住春天的感覺。 requinbymic.com

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Head back to Georgetown and Blues Alley Jazz, the nation’s oldest continuing jazz supper club, which regularly hosts acts like the Dwayne Adell Trio, fusion group the Yellowjackets, and the award-winning Jamison Ross Trio. bluesalley.com

- 晚上 10 時 回到喬治城，並來到全美國最古老的爵士晚餐 俱樂部 Blues Alley Jazz，這兒經常舉辦如 Dwayne Adell 三重唱、樂隊 Yellowjackets 的 演出，以及屢獲殊榮的 Jamison Ross 三重唱等。 bluesalley.co

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 冒險足跡

A SOUTH SEAS SOJOURN 南太平洋巡 航 之 旅

Roger and Jackie Harris of Charlotte Travel explore the remote South Pacific nations of Micronesia and Melanesia aboard Silverseas’ luxurious Silver Discoverer.

Words & Photos by Roger Harris 樂悠遊創辦人 Roger 及 Jackie Harris 乘坐銀海郵輪的豪華探險船銀海 發現者號，探索偏遠的南太平洋國家密克羅尼西亞及美拉尼西亞的風光。 圖、文 Roger Harris

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 冒險足跡

R

emoteness and inaccessibility are, in many ways, what you make of them. Sure, they can sometimes be burdensome challenges that need to be overcome.

But in today’s travel climate, where we can traverse the globe in a single day, they can also serve to increase the allure of a destination, if only because its environment and culture have survived the onslaught of globalized influences and commercial excesses. The increase in difficulty of visiting these destinations, and the lack of infrastructure once you arrive, can also preserve locales as they are, and have always been. Fortunately, expedition cruise ships easily overcome both problems, allowing today’s intrepid travellers easy access to previously unreachable locations in the comfort that modern cruise ships provide. 某程度上，所謂的「偏僻」及「難以接近」，只是視乎你的看法。當然， 這些因素有時會是一些讓人煩惱及需要克服的挑戰。但在現今人類可 以以一日穿梭地球的旅遊模式中，它們反而讓某些旅遊目的地吸引力大 增 — 那些環境及文化飽受全球化影響及過度商業化的衝擊下，仍能倖 存下來的地方。前往這些地方的難度越大，以及缺乏到埗後的公共設 施，從另一個角度來看，也正正代表住這地區能保留由古至今一直以來 的原貌。幸運是，探險船能易如反掌地克服這兩個困難，讓現今勇敢無 畏的旅行家，輕鬆自在地安坐於現代化遊輪所提供的舒適環境中，前往 昔日不能到達的地方。

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The isolated islands of Micronesia and Melanesia, a scattering of pearls on the South Pacific, are a prime example. While they remain one of the last corners of the world untouched by mass tourism, we reached the likes of Palau, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and Vanuatu in comfort and style, aboard the 130-passenger Silver Discoverer, one of the specialist expedition vessels of Silversea Cruises. 其中一個典型例子就是南太平洋上兩顆散落的珍珠──孤島密克羅尼西亞群島和 美拉尼西亞群島。雖然它們仍是全球最後幾個並未成為廣泛旅遊熱點的角落之一， 但我們登上能搭載 130 名旅客、銀海郵輪的專業探險船之一的銀海發現者號，就能 以舒適及時尚的方式抵達帛琉、巴布亞新畿內亞、所羅門群島及瓦努阿圖等地。

The Republic of Palau is the scenic gem of Micronesia’s archipelagic nations, which, with Polynesia to the east and Micronesia to the south, make up what is commonly referred to as the South Pacific, a region of vast stretches of ocean, making it ideal cruising grounds. Palau is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, beaches, blue lagoons and coral reefs, which provide first class diving and snorkeling, and it’s clear on arrival that the tiny country is serious about conservation. Visitors are required to sign a pledge stamped into their passport to “preserve and protect your beautiful island home.” 帛琉共和國是密克羅尼西亞群島的著名觀光勝地，與東部的玻里尼西亞及南部的密 克羅尼西亞，組成了大家經常提及的「南太平洋」，這裡盡是一片廣闊無邊的海洋， 讓它成為了理想的郵輪之旅目的地。帛琉以其清澈見底的海水、海灘、藍湖及珊瑚 礁聞名，是潛水及浮潛的一流勝地，也正正代表著，這個小國是非常重視環境保育， 到訪的遊客必須在他們的護照上簽署一份「保護你的美麗島嶼家園」的帛琉公約。 30

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 冒險足跡 Beautiful but far wilder, the coastal islands and villages of the north coast of Papua New Guinea offer close encounters with hospitable communities who greet visitors with elaborate ceremonies and spectacular traditional dress. Unlike many similar experiences, these events don’t feel at all staged, and as these remote communities receive very few visiting cruise ships each year, the residents clearly make the most of the occasion, offering a warm welcome with festivities that often continue well after the ship’s guests have departed. 巴布亞新畿內亞則展現了美麗而狂野的一面，其北部沿海島 嶼及村落會透過精心編排的慶典及華麗的傳統服飾來迎接旅 客，讓他們感受到親切熱情及賓至如歸的感覺。與許多相類似 的體驗不同，島上所有歡迎活動也是從心出發，因為這些偏遠 地區每年只接待寥寥可數的遊輪，所以村民會充份利用這時 機，以各種慶祝活動表示對旅客的熱烈歡迎。有時就算旅客已 乘船離開，慶典仍會繼續。

Melanesia is replete with volcanoes, many of which are still active. During our May 2018 cruise, Silver Discoverer sails close to Kadova, a tiny island 25 kilometres off the north coast of New Guinea, PNG’s largest land mass.

The volcano at the centre of the tiny island erupted – for what is thought to be the first time in recorded history – in January 2018, sending a plume of ash more than two kilometres into the air and prompting the evacuation of Kadova’s 500 residents. 美拉尼西亞到處也佈滿了火山，當中有許多依然活躍。在 2018 年 5 月的郵輪之旅中，我們乘坐的銀海發現者號就駛近 Kadova，這個小島距離新畿內亞北岸只有 25 公里，也是巴布 亞新畿內亞最大的陸地。而在 2018 年 1 月，位於這個小島中 心的火山爆發──據說是有史以來的首次，噴上高空的火山 灰超過兩公里，令 Kadova 的 500 名居民要立即撤離。

Another unique opportunity comes to the east, at Garove Island, located in the Bismark Sea off the island of New Britain. Here, the Silver Discoverer slips through a narrow gap in a sunken volcanic caldera that now forms a five-kilometer-wide lagoon wreathed by steep 100-metre high forested walls. Upon our arrival, the entire population of Widu, the only village on the island, performs a warm and elaborate welcoming ceremony for the new visitors. It’s another extravagant festival of singing and dancing and it’s hard not to be impressed and touched by the warmth of the greeting as well as the obvious effort that goes into its preparation. Residents go to astonishing extremes with their highly decorative costumes and makeup to offer a truly authentic encounter. 另一個獨特的體驗機會就是來自東部，位於新不列顛附近的 俾斯麥海上的 Garove Island。在這裡，銀海發現者號要穿 過一個被 100 米高陡峭樹牆包圍住的藍湖，湖的闊度達五公 M I R A N D U S

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FOUNDER’S ADVENTURES | 冒險足跡 里，是由一座沉沒了的火山噴口上的狹窄縫隙所形成。當我們抵埗後，島上唯一村 落 Widu 上的所有村民，為新相識的遊客精心籌備了一個親切的歡迎儀式。這是另 一個精彩的歌舞盛宴，很難不被這種窩心的問候及無微不至的預備所感動。村民甚 至會穿上極華麗的服飾及細心打扮，讓大家有一個更充實的體驗及回憶。

Rabaul, on New Britain, also has a spectacular harbour, which reaches across to the flanks of Tavurvur, another towering volcano, which, in 1994, destroyed half the town. After exploring the ruins, which remain clogged and coated in volcanic ash, we visit the nearby Baining Mountains, home of the Baining people. Here, fire dances are traditionally performed by young men as an initiation into adulthood, to celebrate childbirth, in remembrance of the dead, and to celebrate the coming of the annual harvest. Wearing elaborate masks, young warriors leap through the fire, creating a dazzling display of sparks as they chant rhythmically to the beat of drums in a ceremony that’s as old as time itself. 新不列顛的拉包爾，亦有一個延伸至 Tavurvur 兩翼的壯麗海港。Tavurvur 是另一 座高聳入雲的火山，在 1994 年摧毀了半個鎮。探索過仍被火山灰堵住及覆蓋的廢 墟後，我們就到附近的貝寧山脈參觀，也就是貝寧人的家園。這裡的傳統火舞是由 年輕男子負責表演，可以作為踏入成年的儀式、慶祝新生、紀念死者及慶祝每年的 豐收。與古老的慶祝儀式一樣，年輕的戰士會戴著精緻的面具，隨著鼓聲的節奏在 火中跳躍，製造出耀眼閃爍的花火。

Just when you think you have seen it all, our ship arrives at Vanuatu’s Pentecost Island, best known as the site of the legendary land diving ceremony, one of the most extraordinary socio-religious events a seasoned traveller could wish to witness. Young men dive head-first from an 80-foot high tower, their fall arrested before they hit the ground by a natural vine attached to their ankles. The ceremony takes place from April to June when the vines have the right moisture content to stretch and absorb the impact of the dive. This amazing ritual, which helped give birth to the modern bungy jump, serves to welcome the yam harvest and to bestow prestige on the participants, some of whom have on occasion suffered serious injury or death as a result. The whole village turns out, dressed in traditional costume, to dance and chant, whipping the atmosphere into an excited frenzy of dance, activity and noise that helps bestow courage on the men preparing to jump. 當你以為所有精彩節目已盡收眼底之時，我們的船隻已到達了瓦努阿圖的五旬節島。 這裡最著名的就是傳說中的陸地俯衝慶典，也是經驗豐富的旅行家想親眼見證的最 特別社會宗教活動之一。年青男生要從一個 80 呎高的塔上面向地俯衝，而腳踝上 則綁上了一條天然藤蔓，在接近擊中地面的一刻就會被拉起。慶典在四月至六月舉 行，這個時份的藤蔓水份含量最適中，可以伸展及承受俯衝的衝擊力。這個讓人驚 嘆的慶典，促成了現今笨豬跳的誕生，亦有助於山藥的採摘及授予參加者一種至高 無上的榮譽，但當中亦有不少人會因而受重傷或死亡。整個村落的人也會穿上傳統 服飾載歌載舞，此時熱鬧的跳舞聲及喧叫聲，頓時將氣氛推至最高峯，為準備俯衝 的參加者打氣。

Cruising the South Pacific offers an array of extraordinary encounters with diverse cultures, spectacular scenery, pristine marine life, genuine warmth and a reminder that our global society is far more complex than we imagined. 南太平洋的郵輪之旅為我們帶來了一系列多元化的文化、壯觀瑰麗的風景、原始純 樸的海洋生態、真摯熱誠的問候，以及提醒我們，地球上還有很多地方是遠遠超越 我們所想的。 32

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WELLNESS | 健康

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下

THE KINGDOM OF

HAPPINESS

最幸福的國度．不丹 Nestled between two gigantic neighbours – China and India – the tiny Himalayan nation of Bhutan is a majestic, serene and beautiful country that’s admired not for its gross domestic product but for its gross national happiness index. By Nick Walton

位處兩大文明古國，中國和印度之間的喜瑪拉雅山脈下 — 不丹， 這個雄偉、恬靜與美 麗的王國，最讓人欣賞的是它非以國內生產總 值來衡量經濟成績，而是「國民快 樂指數」。追求幸福快 樂，就是這 裡的意義。撰文：Nick Walto n Emerging from the pint-sized terminal at Paro, Bhutan’s sole international airport, new arrivals are greeted by dazzling sun, crisp mountain air and most invitingly, a bevy of genuine smiles.

The warm welcome from assembled guides dressed, as many Bhutanese still do, in pristine national costume, brings colour back to the faces of air travelers who have just experienced one of the most nail-biting landings on the planet; only 12 pilots in the world are certified to land in Bhutan, as it requires a series of hair-raising turns as aircraft fly the length of the valley before landing in the valley as brightly-painted houses whip past on either side.

不丹全國只有唯一一座國際機場帕羅機場，客運大樓簡潔得很，甫踏出機 場，迎面而來的是一縷縷耀眼的陽光、清新的山區空氣，以及最吸引我的 那絲誠懇燦爛的微笑。一群穿上簇新不丹傳統民族服裝的導遊，熱烈的在 機場正門前夾道歡迎，讓那班剛剛經歷了史上最驚險降落旅程之一的遊客 回過神來，重拾笑容。這場讓人又驚又喜的降落之旅，險象萬分。沿途飛越 山谷要經過一連串驚險的急彎，並會與七彩鮮艷的民房有近距離接觸，所 以世界上只有 12 名機師獲准在不丹降落。

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下 It’s my first visit to Bhutan, although the remote Himalayan Buddhist kingdom has been on my personal bucket list for a decade. I’ve always been intrigued by a destination that has remained so well fortified against the onslaught of modernity, retained an ancient (and well-loved) monarchy and which measures its progress not in dollar signs or market points, but by happiness, literally. Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness (GNH) index, a measurement of the collective contentment of the kingdom’s 740,000 citizens, is a remarkably progressive approach for a country named after a thunder dragon. Coined in 1972 by Bhutan’s fourth king, HM Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the idea has evolved into a socioeconomic development model recognised by the UN. There’s no doubt Bhutan is a land of happiness and peace, and despite a complicated visa application process, mandatory guides, and a daily per diem of US$250 per person, which keeps tourist numbers low (in 2014 Bhutan welcomed 134,000 travellers, compared to North Korea which welcomed more than 250,000), an increasing number of well-heeled visitors are clinging to their airplane armrests in pursuit of their own little slice of Himalayan harmony.

雖然這個偏遠的喜馬拉雅佛教王國，早已在我「此生非去不 可」的清單上佔一席位，但這次卻是我第一次踏足不丹。儘管 飽受盡現代化的衝擊，這個世外桃源卻堅毅不催，仍保留了深 得民心的古代傳統君主體制；用來衡量國家進步的亦非金錢 或市場地位，而是快樂，這就是我一直所嚮往探索的目的地。 對於有「雷龍王國」之稱的不丹而言，用來衡量 74 萬國民滿 足感的國民幸福總值指數，是一種非常進步的方法。這個由 1972 年不丹第四任國王 HM Jigme Singye Wangchuck 所 提倡的理念，亦已演變成為聯合國認可的社會經濟發展模式。 毋庸置疑，不丹是一片幸福與和平的土地。儘管有著需要一 個何等困難的申請簽證手續、強制性導遊，以及每人每日需付 250 美元的津貼這些讓旅遊人數保持在低水平的因素（2014 年，不丹接待了 134,000 名旅客，北韓則超過 25 萬人），有 越來越多的高消費遊客，會無懼一切前來，追求屬於自己的 那份喜馬拉雅山和諧感。

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下 Following the king’s mindset, luxury resort brands like Aman and Como quickly opened collections of rustic-chic lodges dotted across this mountainous destination, each dedicated to encapsulating Bhutanese culture and tradition.

This month Six Senses will join the fray with the opening of the first in a series of luxurious mountain retreats.

However, my own trip begins at Como Uma Paro, an intimate 29room hideaway that, like virtually everything in this vertiginous nation, is perched on the side of a steep hill. Here, the first stop of Como’s groundbreaking Scenic Heli-Adventure, it’s very easy to be happy; there are roaring fires, comfy beds and shy but attentive staff dressed in elegant, silken kira dresses. There’s the Como Shambala Retreat, home to Bhutanese-inspired massages and an indoor pool, and Bukhari, a restaurant serving healthy hand-ground buckwheat noodles, yak dumplings, and Como’s iconic juice blends.

跟從國王的想法，像阿曼及科莫等的豪 華度假村品牌，迅速在這個山區土地上 興建鄉村式的精緻旅舍。每座旅舍也致 力將不丹的傳統文化融合其中。今年， 品牌六善養生亦會分一杯羹，在當地開 設一系列的豪華山區度假勝地。 然而，我的旅程是在帕羅科莫烏瑪度假 村展開。幾乎與當地所有東西一樣，度假 村 29 間私隱度極高的客房，亦是坐落 在陡峭的高山之上。來到這裡，第一站就 是參加她們舉辦的創新「直升機觀光歷 奇之旅」，還有熊熊的火堆、舒適的床鋪， 以及穿起高貴優雅傳統絲質 Kira 裙子、 腼腆卻細心體貼的職員，幸福感隨即而 來。而 Como Shambala Retreat 是不 丹式按摩和室內游泳池的所在地；餐廳 Bukhari 側是供應健康的手工蕎麥麵， 犛牛餃子及科莫的招牌果汁。

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下 The next morning I’m off to Bhutan’s capital, Thimpu, a serene little city nestled on the west bank of the Thimphu Chuu, making it the world’s third highest capital.

At its centre a police officer resplendent in his uniform and white gloves, directs traffic from a tiny hut decorated in bold reds and yellows. Bhutan has worked hard to improve its infrastructure, but when the country’s first traffic light was hoisted at the same intersection, so many accidents occurred that it was quietly lowered again that very evening. I guess happiness is sometimes found in not fixing something that isn’t broken.

The quiet of the capital is only interrupted by the cries from the khuru field, where the national sport of archery is the biggest ticket in town most weekends. Players adorned in national dress aim for a tiny bullseye from some 150 metres downfield.

Teams jostle and challenge each other across the length of the field in an artful tradition called kha shed, which involves verbal teasing adorned in rich literary language that’s meant to distract the competing archer. 第二天清早，我將會前往不丹的首都廷布，它是 個座落於廷布河谷西岸的謐靜小城，也是全世 界第三高的首都。附近有一位穿著制服和戴上白 手套的警察，在漆上鮮明大膽的紅黃色小亭子 前指揮交通。雖然不丹一直很努力改善其公共設 施，但隨住首盞交通燈高掛十字路口上，隨即卻 發生多宗事故，當晚它再次悄然降下來了。我認 為，有時幸福，或許就是不去打破常規。 首都的謐靜，也許只會被普那卡場的喧囂聲所 打斷。幾乎每個周末，全國射箭運動也會是當地 最熱門的節目。穿上民族服裝的球員們，目標就 是在低地逾 150 米遠的一個小型箭靶。兩組隊 伍會在場上互相較量，以狡猾又傳統的方式 kha shed，不停利用豐富的言語嘲諷及叫囂，試圖讓 敵方分心，因而取勝。

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下 When the arrow is finally loosened, all eyes turn to the sky, the bolt streaking through the sunshine and landing steps from leaping opponents. A missed shot is met with more polite taunts, but a successful strike leads to a respectful, traditional dance that blesses the target and acknowledges the talents of the archer.

There are smiles, singing and dancing at both ends of the field before skills are praised, arrows bestowed, and friendly rivalries stoked with more than a few drops of local ara rice wine.

Atop the Dochula Pass I visit the solemn Druk Wangyal Chortens, a memorial of 108 stupas, notably dedicated to both soldiers and rebels who fell during the Assamese uprising of 2003-04, the first military conflict ever for the Royal Bhutan Army. It is

a telling monument to Bhutan’s respect for life and peace.

By dusk we’ve weaved our way through the farming hamlets of the verdant Punakha Valley, where rice paddies are being replanted and water buffalo slosh through the mud, and I’m in my spacious suite, one of 11 at Como Uma Punakha, a luxurious mountain retreat designed by architect Cheong Yew Kuan that overlooks the meandering Mo Chu River. There’s timeless sheesham-wood furniture, a woodburning stove, and a deep-soak tub that’s perfect for Punakha’s frosty nights. Nearby the retreat’s dining room (a favourite with passing Bhutanese royalty), produces inspiring local fare from organic produce sourced from surrounding farms.

當射手終於發矢，所有人的目光隨即望向天空， 看著對手的弓箭劃破耀眼的陽光，逐步逼近自 己。假如這箭射失，隨即便傳來更多禮貌的嘲諷。 但如果一矢中的，將會迎來傳統的歌舞祝福，藉 此讚揚對手的技術。比賽結束，箭手互相交換弓 箭，頌讚對方技術了得，整天場上也滿溢著笑容、 歌聲及舞蹈，以及憑藉當地的 Ara 米酒催化下 而產生的友好競爭。 來到都楚拉隘口的最高峰，我參觀了莊嚴的楚 克旺耶紀念碑。這座擁有 108 座佛塔的紀念碑， 是特別獻給在 2003 至 2004 年「阿薩姆起義」 事件中死去的士兵及叛亂份子，也是不丹皇家

軍隊第一次的軍事衝突。這座紀念碑，也正正代 表不丹對生命與和平的尊重。 黃昏時份，我們穿過普納卡山谷的翠綠小農村 村莊。那裡恰好正重新種植稻田，水牛在泥地 裡晃來晃去翻鬆泥土，而我就在帕羅科莫烏瑪 度假村寬敞套房內。在這 11 間由著名建築師 Cheong Yew Kuan 設計豪華山間房間中，可以 俯瞰蜿蜒的墨楚河。除了永不過時的杉木傢俱， 還有木製的火爐及可浸泡泡浴的浴缸，非常適 合普納卡的嚴寒夜晚。鄰近度假村的餐廳更是 不丹皇室的最愛，主打從附近農場採購當地的 有機農產品，提供一場讓人興奮的盛宴。

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DESTINATION | 遨遊天下

Sated and rested, I set out the next morning to explore the valley, across which one of the first Six Senses retreats is almost completed. We first climb to Chimmi Lhakhang, a 15th-century fertility temple dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, a Buddhist saint who is said to have defeated evil spirits with his ‘Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom’, earning him the nickname the Divine Madman, and then explore the Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong, the valley’s ancient fortress, which dates from 1637.

Beyond, the fields are alive with colour as a thousand Buddhists assemble to hear a sermon by Trulku Jigme Chhoedra, the country’s religious leader. There are monks swathed in terracotta and tangerine kasayas; elders from the mountain villages in black ghos and white shawls with matching whiskers; giggling novices with freshly saved heads; and wizened old women wrapped in silk scarfs the colour of glacier water.

With dawn I’m headed down the dusty road from Como Uma Punakha to a field beside the river where a modern helicopter awaits. In a pioneering partnership with the Royal Bhutan Helicopter Service (the kingdom’s fledging air ambulance fleet), well-heeled travellers staying at Como’s properties can now be among the first to visit some of the kingdom’s most remote corners as part of a six-night scenic heli-adventure that includes two flights – from Paro to Punakha via the rarely-visited Laya Valley, and from Punakha to Paro via the Utsho Tsho, the Turquoise Lakes of the Labatama Valley – but I’ve managed to hitch a ride in the opposite direction, visiting Laya en route to Paro’s international airport.

With a roar from the turbines that reverberates off the mountain sides, British captain Nik Suddards pilots the new Airbus helicopter up Punakha Valley, offering a bird’s eye view of the Nalanda Monastery and the sacred peaks of Jigme Dorji National Park, home to snow and clouded leopards, Himalayan black bear, red pandas, and ancient glaciers. After 40 minutes in the air we circle the tiny village of Laya, the Kingdom’s highest settlement at 4,115 metres above sea level.

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休息過後，第二天清晨便出發去探索山谷，途經六 善養生首個於不丹的度假村項目，其中一部份亦幾 乎完工。我們首先爬上 15 世紀的生育古廟 Chimmi Lhakhang，它是獻給佛教聖人查巴昆列的，據說他 曾用「智慧霹靂」打敗邪靈，因而獲得「神聖狂人」 的稱號。繼續往前，我們便來到普納卡宗，這座位於 山谷中的宗式堡壘，歷史可追溯至 1637 年。然而， 草地上還非常熱鬧，有成千上萬的佛教徒聚集一起， 聽當地的宗教領袖 Trulku Jigme Chhoedra 講道。 有穿上棕紅色或橘紅色的 kasayas 服飾的僧侶；有 穿上黑色 ghos 及白色披肩、來自山區村莊的鬍鬚老 人；還有剛剛剃頭的天真沙彌，以及裹著冰藍色絲巾 的瘦弱老婦人。 黎明時份，我從科莫烏瑪普納卡沿著塵飛的道路前 往河畔，那裡有一架現代化的直升機等待著。與不 丹皇家直升機服務公司（國家剛起步的空中救護隊 伍）合作，入住科莫酒店的高消費旅客現在可以成 為首批能探索國家最偏遠角落地方的人。由科莫舉 辦的七日六夜直升機歷奇之旅共有兩段航程 — 第 一段是由帕羅飛往普納卡，沿途會經過極少人造訪 過的萊雅山谷；第二段則是由普納卡飛返帕羅，會 途經帕塔瑪山谷的 Turquoise Lakes，又名 Utsho Tsho。原本我還打算在回去帕羅機場的路上，順道 乘車到萊雅山谷遊覽，這回卻提早完成這項行程。 隨著轟隆隆的引擎聲在山谷中響徹迴盪，英國機長 Nik Suddards 將新款的空中巴士直升機朝著帕塔 瑪山谷飛去，垂頭俯瞰，爛陀寺及吉美多吉旺楚克國 家公園的聖山美景盡收眼底，這裡還是雪豹、喜瑪 拉亞黑熊、小熊貓及古代冰川的棲息地。40 分鐘的 空中旅程過後，我們便抵達海拔 4,115 米，不丹最高 的居住點萊雅山谷。

DESTINATION | 遨遊天下

Located in one of the most remote and least developed parts of the country, Laya is home to the semi-nomadic Layap people, a relatively affluent community that harvests cordyceps, a rare fungus used in Chinese and Tibetan traditional medicine. Their Bey-yul, or hidden paradise, is protected from mischievous spirits by an ancient gate at the village entrance.

Foreigners are extremely rare in Laya, as are helicopters, and after landing above the village, we’re greeted by curious locals including two young sisters – I am the first foreigner they’ve ever seen.

Our last day is spent climbing to the Taktsang Palphug Monastery, a prominent Himalayan Buddhist site also known as Tiger’s Nest, set on the side of a dramatic cliffside. Reaching the top is not as challenging as it once was when it was built in 1692, when visitors had to risk life and limb on tiny footholds set into the rock to reach the top, but it is still a minor feat with 700 steps down into the canyon and back up again to the monastery (which need to be repeated on the hike home).

Thankfully, once you make it to the shrine and take in the soaring views across the kingdom’s mountainous interior, you’re guaranteed your biggest Bhutanese smile yet.

萊雅山谷位於不丹最偏遠及最原始的地區之一，是 半游牧民族萊雅人的家園，但卻是一個相對較富裕 的社區，因為族人的作物是冬蟲夏草，一種用於中國 及西藏傳統中藥醫學上的稀有珍貴真菌。他們更在 村莊入口處設有古老大門，保護稱為 Bey-yul 的秘 境免受外來騷擾。無論是外國遊客或直升機在萊雅 山谷也是非常罕見，我們在抵達村莊後受到一群好 奇的當地人歡迎，包括兩位年輕的小姐妹 — 或許 我就是他們這生遇見的第一位外國人。 來到旅程最後一日，我們的行程就是攀上塔克桑寺， 這是著名的喜馬拉雅山佛教遺址，當地亦稱為虎穴 寺。這座建於 1692 年的神聖寺廟，位處於一個險峻 的懸崖邊，要登上頂峰極具挑戰性，甚至是個小小 的壯舉，當時遊客不得不冒險地將腳踏在岩石頂部， 然後走 700 步到小峽谷中，再次回到寺廟（徒步回 家的需要重複步驟）。但值得慶幸的是，一旦你成功 進入了寺廟，在高山上欣賞這國家壯麗山區景色，保 證你會擁有旅程中最滿意及最燦爛的不丹式微笑。 與您的樂悠遊旅程策劃經理談談探索不丹的最佳方 式。樂悠遊並提供多元化的精彩獨特不丹體驗，包 括單車及文化之旅，徒步旅行及豪華住宿享受。

Speak to your Charlotte Travel travel manager about the best way to explore Bhutan. Charlotte Travel offers a kaleidoscope of experiences in Bhutan, ranging from cycling and cultural tours, to hiking and luxury lodge stays.

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THE INSPIRATOR | 鼓舞人心

The Tech 科 技 Warrior 戰 士 Poaching of wildlife remains one of the biggest challenges to Southern Africa’s travel industry, with the numbers of rhinos in especially rapid decline. Colleen Glaeser, a passionate environmentalist, safari lodge owner and global marketing director at software company AxxonSoft, has turned to artificial intelligence to help halt this destructive trend.

非法捕殺野生動物仍然是非洲南部旅遊業正面對的最大挑戰 之一，尤其是當犀牛的數量急迅下降。Colleen Glaeser 既 是位熱心的環保主義者，也是野生動物園旅館老闆，以及軟 件公司 AxxonSoft 的全球營銷總監，他借助人工智能的幫忙 , 阻止這種極具破壞性的威脅。

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THE INSPIRATOR | 鼓舞人心

Where does your passion for Africa stem from?

preventing killings as the team is able to get to the scene of the crime quickly.

你對非洲的熱情源於哪裡？

透過結合 AxxonSoft 深度探測科技及中樞網絡，運 用於非洲南部的公園及保護區中，我們可以探測出人 類與動物之間的異常行為。一旦有違規事件發生，監 控中心會立即收到通知。攝錄機會辨別出違規事件發 生的位置，並且準確指出。 警衛中心收到所需資料後， 會立即派遣反捕獵部隊。事實證明，這方法非常有效 地阻止捕殺行為，因為部隊能迅速到達案發現場。

I was born and bred in South Africa. It’s my home and deeply rooted in my heart. Growing up surrounded by majestic animals and the exquisite plains of the African continent automatically makes me passionate about my country and continent. 我在南非出生及長大。這裡是我的家，它一直深深扎 根在我心中。在雄糾糾的野生動物及非洲大陸廣闊 壯麗的平原包圍下長大，自然讓我對自己的國家及土 地產生歸屬感。

What inspired you to use your knowledge of the technology and security business to help anti-poaching efforts? 是甚麼啟發你利用自己的科技及保安知識，來幫助反 非法捕殺行為？

My love for my country and continent.

Combined with my passion for the safety and security industry, the connection between the two was inevitable. The statistics on rhino poaching in South Africa are devastating. I own a lodge, with many beautiful animals roaming about the reserve, and seeing the destruction that poaching has imposed on the continent is a gruesome brutality. 是我對自己的國家及土地的愛，加上我對保安這行業 的熱情，兩者是有著必然的關係。南非非法捕獵犀牛 的數字是讓人震驚，我擁有一所旅館，有不少美麗的 動物會在保護區內漫步，看到非法捕獵對非洲帶來 的破壞性，的確是讓人毛骨悚然。

How does AxxonSoft’s Deep Learning technology protect endangered species?

AxxonSoft 的深度探測技術如何保護瀕危物種 ?

By incorporating AxxonSoft’s Deep Learning and Neural Networks into parks and reserves across Southern Africa, we can detect the difference between humans and animals. As soon as there is a breach, the surveillance centre is immediately notified. Cameras are used to identify where the breach has occurred, and they can pick up exactly where the threat has taken place. The guard centre immediately gets all the necessary information, and the anti-poaching unit is dispatched. This has proved very successful in

Your artificial intelligence technology is a pro-active approach to a process that is typically reactive. What do you hope to achieve? 你的人工智能科技是一種非常積極阻止罪案發生的 方法，你的終極目標是甚麼？

Our aim is to help reduce the brutality inflicted on these animals and we can definitely say that we have seen some great results since the technology was implemented. We are working with all major parks and reserves to implement this technology as soon as possible. Furthermore, we are looking to extend outside of South Africa, reaching reserves across Southern Africa as well. 我們的目標是幫助減少對這些野生動物所造成的暴 行，我們可以肯定地說，自從採取了該技術後，已看到 了一些不錯的成果。我們正與所有主要公園及保護區 商討合作方案，希望盡快實施這項科技。此外，我們 希望能擴展至南非以外的地區，甚至是非洲南部的保 護區。

How can we as travellers help curb the destructive practice of poaching? 我們作為旅行家如何幫助遏制非法捕獵的暴行 ?

While travellers may not be able to directly impact poaching in the country, awareness of this devastating problem is key. Understanding how poaching affects the country and our animals is imperative in raising awareness across the globe. Travellers are also welcome to contribute to local charities fighting against the epidemic. 雖然旅行家可能沒法直接影響一個國家的非法捕獵 行為，但提高對這殘暴行為的認識才是最重要的。要 達至這目標，了解非法捕獵是如何影響一個地方及動 物是最必要的，所以歡迎旅行家捐款至當地的慈善 機構，對抗這殘暴行為。

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AFRICA | 狂野非洲

Africa remains one of the world’s most wild, diverse and fascinating continents, so it’s little wonder that it seduces travellers to return time and time again. Whether you’re an Africa newbie or a regular visitor, there’s always something new to experience. Here’s some of our top picks for African exploration in 2019. By Nick Walton

非洲依然是世上最狂野、最多元化及最迷人的洲份之一，吸引 了無數旅行家一次又一次重遊舊地。無論你是遊非洲的新手 還是常客，總會找到新的體 驗，以下就是 2 019 年精選的非洲 探險 旅程。撰文：Nick Walto n

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SOUTH AFRICA 南非 Say Africa and its southernmost country often springs to mind, and for good reason. From game parks within reach of the capital city, to worldclass winelands, surf breaks and a captivating dining scene, South Africa lives up to its name The Rainbow Nation. Why not combine a safari experience at the likes of Kruger or Phinda, with a spot of wine tasting in the Western Cape, home to some stunning wineries, many of which have luxury accommodation on-site? Make a beeline for Sir Richard Branson’s Mont Rochelle, one of the most coveted wineries and hotels in the Franschhoek Did you know South wine belt and an easy drive from Cape Africa’s wine industry Town. Here you can take a personalized was started way back in wine tour, followed by an indulgent 1659? treatment at the spa, which uses eco你知道南非的葡萄酒工業 friendly Africology products. 是在1659年開始嗎？ Back in the city, check in at one of Cape Town’s newest houses of slumber, The Silo, a boutique hideaway housed in a former grain silo that now plays host to the inspiring new Museum of Contemporary Art Africa. Alternatively, Ellerman House offers some of the most luxurious accommodation in the country, as well as stunning Southern Ocean views. If you prefer a slower pace, the coast between Cape Town and George, part of the acclaimed Garden Route, offers one of the most picturesque road trip routes on the planet, as Be sure to pop in for the signature fish and well as a host of coastal chips at the East Head Café in Knysna, hamlets and restaurants a local hotspot. to explore along the way. 必定要在當地人氣熱點克尼斯納的

East Head Café品嚐招牌炸魚薯條。 46

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說非洲和它最南端的城市，常常浮現大 家的腦海中，也不無道理。從首都裡的 野生動物保護區到世界首屈一指的葡萄 酒之鄉，還有衝浪勝地及迷人的用餐環 境，難怪南非會有「彩虹之國」的美譽。 為何不將克魯格或菲達的野生動物體 驗，與西開普敦的葡萄酒品味之旅合而 為一呢？這兒擁有很多讓人驚嘆的葡萄 酒廠，還附設有豪華的住宿體驗。直奔 到理查德布蘭森爵士的 Mont Rochelle 吧！這裡是法蘭舒克山谷葡萄酒園中最 讓人夢寐以求的酒廠及酒店之一，距 離開普敦僅是短短的車程。你可以先 參加度身訂造的私人葡萄酒之旅，然後 慢慢享受一個使用不損害生態環境的 Africology 環保產品的水療服務，讓身 心盡情舒展。 回到城市，入住開普敦最新落成的精品 旅舍 The Silo，它的原址曾經是一個糧 倉，現已改建成一所新的非洲當代藝術 博物館。此外，埃勒曼之家酒店也提供 了當地最豪華的住宿之一，擁有最壯觀 的南大洋景緻。如果你喜歡慢活生活的 話，開普敦與喬治之間的海岸，是著名 的花園大道一部份，也是世上讓人最目 不暇給的公路旅程路線之一，沿途並可 找到不少沿海村莊及餐廳。

AFRICA | 狂野非洲

KENYA 肯亞 When it comes to the ultimate safari experience, it’s 提起終極的野生動物體驗時，相信很難 hard to go past the 1,500sqkm Maasai Mara, a truly 會錯過面積達 1,500 平方公里的馬賽馬 remarkable ecosystem that extends into neighbouring 拉。在地理位置上，這兒一直延伸至鄰近 Tanzania, where it’s known as the Serengeti. Of course, 坦桑尼亞的塞倫蓋蒂平原，是一個值得 the major draw card here is wildlife, especially during 留意的生態環境。當然，這裡的主角是 the Great Migration, when two million wildebeest, 野生動物，尤其是每當大遷徙期間，為了 as well as several antelope species and thousands of 尋找更繁盛的草原，二百萬隻角馬、數款 zebra travel across the plains of east Africa in search 羚羊品種，以及數千隻斑馬會同時橫越 of better grazing. Travellers are drawn to the region 東非平原。而在大遷徙過程中，旅行家 during the migration to see the wildebeest cross the 會被深深吸引到當地，親眼見證角馬越 過馬拉河，並且會看到弱 Mara River, and to see If you’re travelling with family and 肉強食的世界上，捕食者 predators track the herds friends opt for the Governors’ during one of the most 追捕獵物的震撼情景。 Private Camp, which caters to 12 remarkable encounters of guests on a sole occupancy basis. the living world. 為了確保你不會錯過那些

如果你是與家人及朋友同行，請選擇

讓人驚嘆的場面，建議可

州長私人營地酒店，該酒店 先預訂馬賽馬拉的州長營 To ensure you’re 僅供12位客人入住。 地酒店，當中包括有最基 positioned perfectly for 本的州長營地酒店、小型 this amazing phenomenon, 州長營地酒店及 Il Moran。營地提供了 book one of the Maasai Mara’s Governors’ Camps, 一個豪華的地方，讓旅客可以無後顧之 which include the original Governors’ Camp, the 憂探索大遷徙期間的馬賽馬拉，無論是 Little Governors’ Camp, and Il Moran. These camps 由有豐富經驗的導遊帶領的傳統公路之 offer a luxurious base from which to explore the 旅、刺激的徙步觀賞動物旅程、或是清 Maasai Mara during the migration, whether it’s on a 晨的熱氣球旅行，也讓你翱翔在萬里長 traditional game drive with an experienced guide, or 空之中，以鳥瞰角度欣賞不同動物族群 during an early morning hot air balloon safari, during 壯觀的遷移情況。 which you’ll soar over the migrating herds and enjoy a spectacular bird’s eye view.

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AFRICA | 狂野非洲

TANZANIA 坦桑尼亞 Just as the Maasai Mara and Serengeti are one ecosystem, many travellers combine their Kenyan safari with stays at camps in Tanzania, where they can spy the Big Five interacting in a wide range of settings. At almost 15,000sqkm, the Serengeti’s is much larger than the Maasai Mara, and offers travellers the chance to leave the tourist throngs behind and find their own piece of Africa. Some of the Serengeti’s top bush retreats, including Sasakwa Lodge, Sabora Tented Camp, Faura Faura Lodge, the Mara River Tented Camp, and Serengeti House, are operated by Singita, which specializes in both established and mobile camps, which move with the herds. For a truly memorable Serengeti safari experience, spend a few days at multiple camps in different parts of the park, from the bolder-strewn northwest, to the broad prairies of Grumeti, to the banks of the mighty Mara River, all of which offer captivating game drives led by experienced guides. 就像馬賽馬拉和塞倫蓋蒂平原 融為一體的生態環境般，許多 旅行家會將肯亞野生動物體驗 與坦桑尼亞營地住宿安排在同 一個行程中。在那裡，他們更可 以窺探非洲五霸的原野生活。 塞倫蓋蒂平原面積達 15,000 平方公里，比馬賽馬拉更為遼 闊，為旅客提供了一個遠離煩 囂並且用心體會非洲的機會。 座落於塞倫蓋蒂平原中的一些頂級叢林度假勝地， 包括 Sasakwa Lodge、Sabora Tented Camp、 Faura Faura Lodge、Mara River Tented Camp 及 Serengeti House，全部由專門建立及跟隨動物 群移動的營地的 Singita 所經營。如想擁有一個真 正令人難忘的塞倫蓋蒂平原野生動物體驗，建議可 到公園裡不同的地方多住幾天，由滿佈大石的西北 部，以至是遼闊草原的格魯米蒂，甚至是氣勢磅礡 的馬拉河河岸，這些誘人的遊獵活動，全部也由經 驗豐富導遊帶領。

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BOTSWANA 博茨瓦納

Certainly the hottest safari destination in Africa for the year ahead, Botswana’s Okavango Delta is a network of canals, swamps, marshes, salt islands and wetlands in the north of the country that play host to a plethora of wildlife, which are drawn to the region by the annual floods. There are many ways to explore this truly unique landscape, and the luxury camps operated by Belmond, which include Belmond Kwai River Lodge, Belmond Eagle Island, and Belmond Savute Lodge offer some of the most sensational experiences in the country.

Spend your days exploring the islands formed by the floods on horseback; soar above the interlacing waterways by helicopter; or take to the water in a traditional makoro dug out canoe for a different perspective on grazing herds, before returning to luxurious tented accommodation, fine-dining, and perhaps a massage under the stars. 無可否認，未來一年非洲最熱門的野生動物遊獵目的地，就是博茨瓦 納的奧卡萬戈三角洲，這裡匯集了當地北部的運河、濕地、沼澤及鹽 田等網絡，有很多野生動物會因為每年的水災而吸引到這地區來。要 探索這個獨特景觀有很多方法，而由貝爾蒙經營的豪華度假村就包括 Belmond Kwai River Lodge、Belmond Eagle Island 及 Belmond Savute Lodge，提供了最能感動人的當地體驗。花一日時間探索由馬 脊及洪水所形成的島嶼、乘坐直升機在縱橫交錯的水道上空翱翔、或 坐上傳統的 Makoro 獨木舟在河上遨遊，以不同的角度欣賞正在草原 上放牧的動物。最後回到豪華的帳篷小屋中，享用精緻的餐飲，或在璀 璨的星空下來一個舒展身心的按摩療程。

Shutter bunnies should sign up for next year’s photography safari with acclaimed biologist and photographer Marc Stickler, who will combine all the camp’s activities with one-on-one photography tutorials.

攝影發燒友務必報名參加明年舉辦的遊獵 攝影之旅，同行的將會有著名的生物學家及 攝影師馬爾茨施蒂克勒，所有訓練營活動將 會與一對一的攝影教學合而為一。

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RWANDA 盧旺達 Another destination that’s seducing wouldbe safari goers is Rwanda, one of only two destinations in the world where you can spy communities of mountain gorillas in their natural environment (the other being neighbouring Uganda). Catering to intrepid travellers looking to delve into the country’s famed Parc National des Volcans or Volcanoes National Park on guided expeditions in search of these remarkable apes, two luxurious new retreats have opened. Wilderness Safaris’ much-anticipated Bisate Lodge, a resort-cumgorilla education centre designed by Nicholas Plewman Architects, is nestled in a natural amphitheater formed inside a volcanic crater; while One&Only Gorilla’s Nest is a luxurious hideaway located in the foothills of the Virunga Volcano Range that boasts luxurious accommodation, a signature restaurant, and an indulgent spa to help sooth those post-hike aches and pains. Extend your visit to Rwanda with a visit to the new One&Only Nyungwe House, which opens this month beside the 101,000-hectare Nyungwe National Park, home to black-and-white colobus monkeys, greycheeked mangabeys, and more than 275 bird species.

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另一個能吸引到遊獵愛好者的目的地，必定是盧旺 達，它是世上僅存的兩個目的地之一，讓旅客可以在 大自然環境中窺探居住在這裡的大猩猩社區（另一 個是鄰國烏干達）。為了照顧想深入了解這國家著名 的盧旺達火山國家公園的勇敢旅行家，讓他們可在 跟隨導遊尋找大猩猩的探險中得到充份休息，兩間 豪華的新休息室現已開放。而坐落在由火山口形成 的天然圓形廣場中、備受荒野遊獵團期待的豪華茅 草屋旅館 Bisate Lodge，是由 Nicholas Plewman Architects 所設計的度假屋兼大猩猩教育中心。 One & Only Gorilla's Nest 是位於維龍加火山山 腳下的一個豪華度假村，除了有奢華的住宿外，還有 招牌餐廳及一間環境舒泰的水療中心，為你驅走因 徒步旅行所產生的疲累感。還有不能錯過將於本月 開放的全新 One & Only Nyungwe House，它毗 鄰佔地 101,000 公頃的紐格威國家公園，是黑白疣 猴、灰臉狐狸及超過 275 種鳥類的棲息地。

AFRICA | 狂野非洲

AFRICA BY RAIL 非洲鐵路 For old Africa hands who have done the safari thing, why not explore this mesmerising continent aboard a luxury train? There are two icons to choose from: The Blue Train travels between Pretoria, the political capital of South Africa, and the coastal city of Cape Town. Painted in royal blue and cream, the train offers two-night rail journeys that combine stunning scenery with luxurious accommodation and fine-dining inspired by the best South African produce.

Alternatively, the Rovos Rail is regularly listed among the world’s top luxury trains. Catering to 72 guests, the two trains of the Rovos Rail feature elegant ensuite staterooms, sublime bar lounges and a captivating Observation Car, and venture as far as Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, as well as Victoria Falls and the game reserves of Mpumalanga.

對於曾參加野生動物遊獵之旅的非洲旅行常客來 說，為何不乘坐豪華列車來探索這個令人著迷的國 家呢？有兩款著名列車可供選擇：來往南非政治首都 比勒陀利亞及沿海城市開普敦的藍色列車，列車漆 上了優雅的皇家藍色及奶油色，兩晚的鐵路之旅，將 迷人風景、豪華住宿及精緻餐飲融為一體，是感受 南非的最好選擇。 而另一款「非洲之傲」列車，也被列入世界頂級豪華 列車其中之一。非洲之傲兩列火車可容納 72 位客人， 設有優雅高貴的頭等廂套房、頂級的酒吧休息區及 誘人的觀景車廂，可飽覽坦桑尼亞達累斯薩拉姆、維 多利亞瀑布及普馬蘭加省野生動物保護區等。

For the ultimate escape, Rovos Rail’s nine-day Namibia Safari also includes some of Southern Africa’s top golf courses. 終極體驗的「非洲之傲」九天納米比亞 野生動物遊獵之旅，包括了南非最頂級的 高爾夫球場體驗。

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | 旅行必備

Arctic Chic 極緻嚴寒 So, you’re headed to the poles? You might want to pack a few essentials to keep you toasty warm and connected far from home. 要出發到南北兩極？或許你要整理一下行裝，預備些必需品，好 讓你在遠離家鄉的日子也能時刻保持溫暖。 Outdoor specialists The North Face has collaborated with Japanese designer Junya Watanabe and fashion brand Comme des Garçons to create a jacket that greys the lines between functionality and haute couture. The Terra 65 jacket is made from three-layer Goretex Windstopper fabric, and features an adjustable hood, reinforced collar and elbows in corduroy, and a series of useful pockets for things like keys, smartphones and lift passes. Even better, there’s also a day pack incorporated into the jacket, which comes in handy on those weight-restricted charter flights. 專業戶外用品品牌 The Nor th Face 與日本設計師渡邊淳彌，以及時尚 品牌 Comme des Garçons 聯手設計了一款禦寒外套，將功能性及高訂 時裝概念完美銜接。Terra 65 外套採用了三層 Goretex Windstopper 物料製成，配備可調節的帽、加固衣領及燈芯絨手肘位，以及一系列的實 用口袋，可放置鑰匙、智能手機及車票等。更重要的是，外套還有摺疊成輕 便裝，易於攜帶，在設有限重的航班上大派用場。

Perfectly suited for heading off the trail, the new Vasque Monolith Ultradry Hiking Boots feature an UltraDry waterproof and breathable membrane to keep feet dry, durable waterproof leather and abrasionresistant uppers, and a dual-density EVA footbed for ultimate comfort. Signature Vasque Monolith rubber soles will ensure you start every journey on the right footing. 最新推出的 Vasque Monolith Ultradr y 登山鞋，採用 ltraDr y 防水透氣薄膜，讓足部時刻保持乾爽，耐用的防水皮 革及耐磨面層，以及加倍密度的 EVA 鞋墊，極為舒適，最適 合長征旅程。招牌的 Vasque Monolith 橡膠鞋底更確保你 以最正確的基礎步姿，開展每一趟旅程。

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While many polar expedition ships now offer internet connectivity it can be limited. Instead, stay in touch with loved ones with the Garmin inReach Mini, a pint-sized, compact satellite communicator that offers adventurers two-way messaging and a 24/7 SOS function. Measuring just under four inches tall, the inReach Mini can slip into a backpack or jacket pocket and can quickly connect to a smartphone or tablet via Bluetooth to send emails and messages via the brand’s Earthmate app. Small but mighty, the inReach Mini is impact resistant and water-rated to IPX7 2, so it’s built tough to withstand extreme conditions. 雖然很多極地探險船現已提供互聯網 連接，但大部份只是有限度供應。而 透過 Garmin 推出的 inReach Mini， 就可以時刻與親人保持聯繫。這一款 輕巧精緻的衛星通信器，為冒險家提 供了雙向通信及 24/7 SOS 功能。 inReach Mini 的高度不足 4 吋，可隨 意放入背包或外套口袋內，並以藍牙 快速連接智能手機或平板電腦，透過 品牌的 Ear thmate 應用程式發送電 子郵件及短訊。inReach Mini 體積 小但功能強大，抗撞力及防水性能 達至 IPX7 2，其堅固耐用的特性能 充份抵禦極端的惡劣環境。

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | 旅行必備 Compact and ready for life´s little adventures, the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III mirrorless compact camera per fectly balances per formance and aesthetics. With a micro four-thirds sensor, a fiveaxis image stabilization system, and an electronic viewfinder, the newest addition to the M10 family features a handy 8.6fps burst mode, which is great for wildlife or action shots, and can capture video in 4K. Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III 小型無反相機，最適合生 活中那些輕鬆及緊湊的冒險旅程，甚至在外形及性能上也取 得完美平衡。擁有微型四分三傳感器、五軸感光元件移動影 像穩定系統、電子觀景器，以及最新加入 M10 系列中的便捷 8.6fps 連拍模式，非常適合拍攝野生動物或捕捉動作鏡頭， 並可製作 4K 視頻。

Seeing is BELIEVING

眼 見為實

Getting ready for your next adventure? Don’t let heavy photography equipment slow you down, with these cutting-edge, travel-ready mirrorless cameras. 準備好下一次的冒險之旅嗎？別要讓 沉甸甸的攝影 器材拖延你的步伐，快 換上這些先進的旅行專用無 反相機吧！

While it has been updated since its launch a few years back, the Sony A6000 still offers travellers great value, especially if they’re not avid photographers but are simply trying to capture memories. With its very capable auto-focus system with 179 phase-detect AF points, as well as an 11fps burst mode, the Sony’s 24MP APS-C sensor pairs with an OLED viewfinder and tilting LCD screen that’s durable and user-friendly. If new is your thing, take a look at the A6300 or A6500 upgrades.

Increasingly popular with vloggers, the Canon EOS M50 is a compact gem for any traveller. With its electronic viewfinder, articulating touchscreen, and 24MP APS-C sensor, this camera offers all the functionality of a larger DSLR but in a much more carry-on friendly package. The DIGIC 8 processor ensures users can capture 4K video on the go, while Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and NFC connectivity makes transferring images to your smartphone or laptop a breeze.

Sony A6000 雖然在幾年前已推出市場並作出升級，但至今 仍然成為旅行家首選的機款之一，特別對於那些只是想儲 起回憶的非狂熱攝影愛好者尤甚。這款相機配備非常強大 的 179 點相位偵測點自動對焦系統，以及 11fps 連拍模式、 Sony 的 24MP APS-C 傳感器，並配有 OLED 電子觀景器及 可翻轉螢幕，方便耐用。如果您鍾情新產品的話，升級版的 A6300 或 A6500 會更適合您。

Canon EOS M50 適合任何類型的旅行家，並越來越受 vloggers 歡迎。相機配備了電子觀景器、鉸接式觸控屏幕， 以及 24MP APS-C 傳感器，並擁有較大型數碼單反相機的所 有功能，但體積就較輕巧，方便攜帶。 DIGIC 8 處理器能讓 用家隨時隨地拍攝 4K 視頻，且設有 Wi-Fi、藍牙及 NFC 連接， 可以輕鬆地將影像傳送到你的智能手機或手提電腦。 M I R A N D U S

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TRAVEL ADVISOR | 心之導航

The Dynamic Dynasty - JACKIE HARRIS -

活 力 無 限

Mother-and-daughter team Jackie and Charlotte Harris head up Charlotte Travel, one of Hong Kong’s most dynamic travel companies.

We ask them where we should be headed and how we should be travelling in the year to come.

由母女檔 Jackie 及 Charlotte Harris 所創辦的豪華旅行社樂悠遊，是香港 最具活力的旅遊公司之一。 即管請 教專業的她們，在未來一年有哪些國 度值得探索？並該以哪種旅遊模式遨 遊天際？

How are travellers’ expectations changing? 旅行家的期望有何變化？

Where have you just been? 你剛剛去過哪裡？

The Solomon Islands on a Silversea expedition (read more on pg28). 乘坐銀海郵輪探險船遊覽所羅門群島。

What kind of traveller are you? 你是哪類型的旅行家？

Picky. My family often complains because I know what I want when I travel and am happy to go off on my own if they don’t want to join me shopping! 挑剔。我的家人會經常埋怨我，因為我知 道自己旅行時想要甚麼。如果他們不願 意和我一起去購物，我很樂意自己去呢！

What’s your most unforgettable destination?

Rapidly. Travellers have more options for planning and booking than ever before, and their expectations are growing for everything from websites to airline check-in to room amenities.

Alongside rapid growth in the choice of destinations, this makes for a much more demanding and knowledgeable traveller. 非常迅速。與過往比較，旅行家在預訂及 計劃行程方面有更多選擇。無論從網頁 或航空公司處辦理登機手續，以至房間 設施，他們的期望也越來越高。而隨著目 的地的選擇越來越多樣化，也令知識淵 博的旅行家的要求越嚴謹。

Where do you seek travel inspiration? 你從哪裡汲取旅行的靈感？

你最難忘的目的地在哪裡？

Papua New Guinea. The culture, the people and just knowing we were in such a remote destination with people who lived in such different ways was the most unique experience and one I will never forget. 巴布亞新畿內亞。無論是當地的文化或 人民我也喜歡。我們身處在這個偏遠的 地方，與以不同方式生活的人共處，這種 經歷是最獨特，而且是永世難忘。 54

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I love travel magazines (it’s one of the reasons we have one for our top tier clients); there’s something tangible and tactile about travel magazines that you don’t get from a website, much like the relationship you get with a good travel agent. I also love travel TV shows and usually go straight to them on CX’s entertainment system. 我喜歡閱讀旅遊雜誌（這也是我們為尊 貴客戶出版雜誌的其中一個原因），旅

遊雜誌會給予你一種實在的感覺，這種 感覺在互聯網上是不能獲得的，就好像 與一間專業旅行社所建立的親密關係一 樣。我也很喜歡看旅遊節目，通常會在 CX 的娛樂系統上收看。

How do travel companies like Charlotte Travel help today’s travellers? 像樂悠遊等旅行社如何可幫助到現今的 旅行家？

We provide them with an advisory and matchmaking service. We know which side of the plane to sit on flying into Paro to get the best views, we know which hotel would be most suited for you and your 10-year-old twin boys in Barcelona, we know exactly which cabin you should book on an Arctic cruise expedition.

We know products inside out and at the end of the day, the personal knowledge and experience we have beats reading reviews or looking at photos online that are not catered to YOU as a traveller. 我們會為旅行家提供諮詢及配對服務。 如在飛去帕羅的航班上，我們知道坐在 飛機的哪一邊可以獲得最佳視野。我們 知道巴塞隆那哪間酒店，是最適合你和 你的 10 歲雙胞胎兒子。我們確切地知道， 你應該在北極巡航探險船旅程中預訂哪 款船艙。我們對所有服務及產品也熟悉 得瞭如指掌，但我們所擁有的知識及經 驗，始終敵不過閱讀或觀看那些並不把你 視作旅行家的網上評論及圖片。

TRAVEL ADVISOR | 心之導航

- CHARLOTTE HARRIS -

Charlotte Travel help today’s travellers?

Where have you just been?

像 樂悠 遊等旅 行社如何可幫助到現今 的旅 行家？

你剛剛去過哪裡？

Las Vegas for Virtuoso Travel Week, the world’s largest luxury travel conference, where I was nominated as one of the Most Admired Travel Advisors in Asia Pacific. 到拉斯維加斯參加全球最大型的豪華旅 遊會議 Virtuoso Travel Week，我還被提 名為亞太區最受讚賞的旅遊顧問之一。

What’s your most unforgettable destination? 你最難忘的目的地在哪裡？

South Africa. I can go 100 times and never be bored of the food, national parks, culture, colours and just about everything that is Cape Town. 南非。我可以到地方 100 次，但永不會厭 倦當地的食物、國家公園、文化、風景， 以及開普敦的一切。

How are travellers’ expectations changing? 旅行家的期望有何變化？

People are looking for more personalization and authenticity - with the internet, travellers are being overwhelmed with travel ideas. With all this accessible information online, reading blogs, reviews and websites can make one lose that ‘wow’ factor when you arrive in a destination.

We personalise your travels and give you those authentic and exclusive experiences that travellers yearn for. For example, check into a hotel room and be served your favourite bottle of wine; sail down a river and be surprised with your favourite bouquet of flowers; have lunch with a local community and receive a gift from them with your name on it; plant a tree in a forest on behalf of your family. 我們會為你度身訂造專屬行程，為你提 供旅行家渴望的真正獨特體驗。例如入 住酒店時，會以你最喜愛的一瓶葡萄酒招 待。乘船順流而下時，會收到你最喜歡的 花束。與當地人共晉午餐，會收到他們所 贈的禮物，上面並會刻有你的名字，以及 會以你家人之名，在森林裡種植一棵樹。

If you had the chance to return to just one restaurant in the world, where would you be making reservations? 如果你只有一次機會再光顧全球任何一 間餐廳，你會選擇哪裡？

Choon Hui Café for Sarawak Laksa in Kuching, Malaysia – no reservations needed. I’ve been

going there since I was a child living in Kuching. It’s only open in the mornings and has the best Sarawak Laksa in town, something that was verified by Anthony Bourdain not once, but twice, in 2005 and then again in 2015. 我會選位於馬來西亞古晉、專門吃砂勞 越叻沙的 Choon Hui Café，那裡是無 須預約的。我從小就住在古晉，一直喜歡 光顧這餐館，它只在早上開放，但擁有鎮 上最美味砂勞越叻沙，就連世界著名美 食家安東尼波登也介紹過兩次，一次在 2005 年，另一次則在 2015 年。

What’s on your bucket list for the year ahead? 未來一年你的旅遊清單上會有甚麼地方？

My travel pattern is based around my friends’ weddings, conferences and tradeshows, so I am up to date with the latest travel trends and best up-coming hotels. That said, there is nothing more that I want than a trip through Central America – Mexico, Cuba and Costa Rica are high up on my bucket list. 我的旅行模式取決於我朋友的婚禮、會 議及貿易展覽，所以我才能了解最新的 旅遊和最佳酒店的趨勢。換言之，我最希 望的就是一個中美洲之旅－墨西哥、古 巴及哥斯達黎加等，這些地方佔據我旅 遊清單的前列位置。

旅行家正在透過互聯網 尋找更加個性化及可靠 的旅程，但這些旅遊資 訊會讓他們感到不知所 措。透過網上，如博客、 評論及其他網站所輕易 獲得的資訊，可能會讓 你在到達目的地後，失去 「驚喜」的感覺。

How do travel companies like M I R A N D U S

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WELLNESS | 洗滌心靈

Holistic High 整體性的體驗

The new Amanyangyun Spa & Wellness Centre in Shanghai combines ancient healing with modern holistic techniques. We talk with Aman spa guru Yuki Kiyono about today’s holistic landscape and what guests might experience at the group’s newest wellness enclave.

上海全新養雲安縵水療館將傳統的中醫療法與現代 整體性技術相結合。我們邀請到安縵水療大師 Yu ki Kiyo no 談談現今水療的整體性，以及客人能在集團 最新的健康水療區內體 驗的內容。

What is Aman’s spa philosophy? 安縵水療的理念是甚麼？

Wellness is a dynamic process of change and growth – a state of complete physical, mental and social wellbeing that is more than simply staying free from illness. The Aman Spa concept aims to help guests achieve integrated holistic wellness, the objective of which is for guests to leave empowered and renewed.

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健康是個充滿活力的變化和成長過程 — 不 僅是保持身心健康免受疾病侵擾，還是一 種完全達至身體、心理或社會健康的狀態。 安縵水療的概念旨在幫助客人達至綜合整 體性的健康，以及讓客人煥然一新的目標。

What makes the new Shanghai wellness centre unique? 是甚麼讓上海的健康水療館與別不同？

Amanyangyun Spa & Wellness Centre is the largest in the Aman collection;

WELLNESS | 洗滌心靈 spanning 2,840sqm, it’s really a world within a world. The complex is set around an impressive central courtyard and houses eight treatment rooms, two double spa suites, extensive relaxation areas, a sauna, plunge pool, Jacuzzi and two swimming pools.

Two private Spa Houses each offer a suite of thermal facilities, including a Russian Banya and Turkish Hammam. 養雲安縵水療館是安縵集團中最大的水療 館，面積超過 2,840 平方米，絕對是天外有 天。酒店座落於讓人印象深刻的中央庭院 之中，設有八間治療室、兩間雙人水療套房、 極寬敞的休息區、桑拿浴室、小型游泳池、 按摩池及兩個游泳池。兩間私人水療別墅 還提供了一系列的熱水浴設施，包括俄羅斯 桑拿及土耳其浴室。

What inspired you to include a Russian Banya? 是甚麼啟發你 要加入俄羅斯 桑拿？

In 2017, Amanoi unveiled two Spa Houses, the first of their kind for Aman.

Both Spa Houses offer the utmost privacy, with one featuring a wooden-clad banya and the other a hammam. Their success inspired us to recreate the experience at Amanyangyun.

2017 年，Amanoi 推出了兩間水療別墅， 這是安縵集團首次推出的。兩間水療別墅 也提供了最高私密度的空間，其中一間設 有木製桑拿，另一間則設有土耳其浴室。它 們的成功啟發我們要將再次將它融入養雲 安縵之中。

Tell us about the treatments that incorporate traditional Chinese healing practices.

The 120-minute Amanyangyun Signature Journey uses local natural apothecary and ancient Chinese wellbeing wisdom, in which the flow of Qi, or energy, blood and other bodily fluids helps to balance Zangfu Organs through stimulating the related meridian lines of the body with traditional Chinese massage techniques and herbal knowledge.

This is then supplemented with the modern Western practice of lymphatic drainage massage. The Amanyangyun Signature Journey is reminiscent of the old days of historic Shanghai.

120 分鐘的養雲安縵招牌之旅選用了當地 天然草藥及傳統中國的民間智慧，以傳統 中式按摩技術及草藥，將氣，或是能量、血 液及其他體液 刺激身體內相關 的經脈，平衡臟 腑。然後再配合 現代西方淋巴排 毒按摩。養雲安 縵招牌之旅也 讓人回憶起歷 史悠久的傳統老 上海。

What one treatment would you personally recommend? 你個人推薦的治 療方法是甚麼？

The In-Body Assessment assesses the health of your body in minute detail to gain a comprehensive view of one’s body composition balance. In-Body not only reveals the muscle-to-fat ratio, but also measures the levels of body water, proteins and minerals, all of which are closely related to the status of one’s health. 體內評估會以微小的細節詳細分析及評估 你身體的健康狀況，全面了解你的體內成 份平衡。體內評估不僅可以顯示肌肉及脂 肪的比例，還可以測量體內的水份、蛋白質 和礦物質，全部也與個人健康狀況有著密 切關係。

告訴我們有關那些融合了中國傳統醫療的 治療方法。 M I R A N D U S

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CT TRAVELLER | CT 旅人

The Real

Fresh from her success in ground-breaking comedy Crazy Rich Asians, Nick Walton talk with Victoria Loke about dream destinations, unusual dining and new roles for Asian actors in Hollywood.

在新鮮出爐的現代愛情喜劇《我的超豪男友》中獲得一致 好評的女演員 Victo ria Lo ke，這天會與我們 談談她的夢想旅遊目的地、心水餐廳，以及荷里活 亞洲演員的新定位。

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CT TRAVELLER | CT 旅人 What was it like growing up in Singapore? What did you miss most when you left home? 在新加坡長大是甚麼感覺？你離開別井最 想念的是甚麼？

Singapore is a multicultural cosmopolitan city and the early exposure to so many different cultures and traditions cultivated a sense of openness and fluidity that is a big part of who I am today. I travelled a lot as a child too, because of my parents’ work, and I suppose it’s because of this that I always feel at home wherever I go.

the needle and opens up more possibilities for Asian actors to receive better roles and better representation.

To me, Crazy Rich Asians represents hope in so many ways. 《我的超豪男友》是我第一部拍攝的電影， 對我來說本身就是一個巨大的里程碑。更 重要的是，亞洲演員身在一個白人當道的 荷里活電影世界中，有色人種演員隨時會 被視為另類或諷刺角色，我非常希望這部 電影能改變既定一貫的方向，並為亞洲演 員帶來更多機會，參演更好的角色及有更 好的代表作。對我來說，《我的超豪男友》 代表著無限的希望。

新加坡是一個多元化的國際大都會，早期會 接觸到很多不同的文化特性及傳統，從而培 養出一種開放態度，讓社會更有流動性，也 造就出今天的我。因為父母的工作關係，我 小時候也經常旅行，或許是這個原因，令我 無論去到哪個地方也有家的感覺。

You studied at Gallatin School of Individualized Study at New York University; what’s a hidden gem from the city that never sleeps?

What kind of traveller would you describe yourself as?

In New York I love hanging out in Chinatown, which has so much history and personality and heart; it is the oldest standing neighborhood in Manhattan! I definitely recommend spending a day at The Cloisters up in Washington Heights too, which is truly a hidden gem of the city.

你認為自己是個怎樣的旅行家？

I would like to consider myself a respectful traveller. I believe that is the highest virtue when it comes to travelling! Having someone want to share their culture with you is such a fortunate thing, and to approach it with a sense of gratitude rather than entitlement is so important. 我認為自己是一個懷有尊重之心的旅行家。 我相信這是旅行中最高尚的品德！有人想 和你分享他們的文化是一件多麼幸運的事， 懷著感恩，而不是必然的心來看待是非常 重要的。

Crazy Rich Asians is a great laugh but it’s also a milestone for Asian actors; what does the film represent to you? 《我的超豪男友》是一齣爆笑喜劇，但也是 亞洲演員的一個里程碑。這部電影對你有何 意義？

Crazy Rich Asians is my first studio feature, and that in itself is such a huge milestone for me personally. On top of that, as an Asian actor who has experienced the whitewashing of roles in Hollywood, where actors of colour are sidelined as token characters or two-dimensional caricatures, I am so hopeful that this movie shifts

你曾於紐約大學的迦勒汀個人學習學院就 讀，這個不夜城有甚麼隱世秘點？

在紐約，我喜歡到唐人街閒逛，那裡有著悠 久的歷史、獨特的個性及感情，它也是曼哈 頓最古老的社區！我極度推介要花一天時 間到華盛頓高地的修道院博物館遊覽，那 裡絕對是當地一個隱世秘點。

Crazy Rich Asians tells a rather satirical side to Singapore. What’s your recommendations for travellers looking to discover the Lion City beyond the glamour? 《我的超豪男友》描繪了新加坡非常諷刺 的一面。對於想探索獅城魅力非凡另一面 的旅行家，你有甚麼建議？

My recommendation would be to discover Singapore’s rich history as a port city from even before the days of British colonization. Our indigenous Malay population was part of a thriving seafaring community throughout the region and beyond, and the Malay Heritage Centre in Kampong Glam is a great place to start learning about the real Lion City — they even offer heritage trails in the area.

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CT TRAVELLER | CT 旅人

我建議要探索新加坡在成為英國殖民地前，作為港 口城市的豐富歷史。我們的馬來土著人民，是當地， 甚至是全球發展蓬勃的航海社區一部分。位於甘榜 格南的馬來傳統文化館也是個了解獅城真面目的好 地方 — 那裡甚至有歷史文物徑。

It’s happy hour in your favorite city – where are we headed and what are we drinking? 在你最喜歡的城市渡過歡樂時光 ─ 我們該往哪裡及 喝些甚麼？

I cannot even begin to shortlist the cities I would consider my favorite, so I will just go with Tokyo since I’m here right now. We are headed to The Bar at the Ritz Carlton Tokyo in Roppongi Hills, which has the most beautiful views of Tokyo, especially at sunset, and I’m drinking a French 75. 我甚至不能挑選出哪些是我認為最喜歡的城市，那 我就選現在身處的東京吧。我們會到六本木新城的 東京麗思卡爾頓酒店的 The Bar 酒吧，那裡擁有東 京最美麗的景色，尤其是在黃昏日落時份，而我正在 喝 French 75 雞尾酒。

What destinations are on your bucket list? 你的旅遊清單上會有甚麼目的地？

I was in Jaipur last year, so I would love to explore the rest of Rajasthan, and to spend more time in Delhi as well. Morocco has been on my bucket list for the longest time, along 60

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with Moscow and Laos. I really want to travel around Latin America too. 我去年到過齋浦爾，所以我很想繼續探索拉賈斯坦 邦的其他地方，並花更多時間在新德里遊覽。摩洛 哥、莫斯科及老撾，一直以來也長居在我的旅遊清 單上，我也很想到拉丁美洲旅行。

Singaporeans are acclaimed foodies – tell us about your most memorable meal while travelling. 新加坡人是著名的美食家 － 告訴我們你在旅程中最 難忘的一餐吧。

What immediately comes to mind is a meal I had in Brussels on recommendation from my host at the time, who is an avant-garde chef. It was a restaurant that exclusively served dishes made with offal, and it was the first time I remember eating an animal brain. Everything was absolutely delicious, so be sure to check out Viva M’Boma if you’re ever in Brussels! 我立即想起當時我在布魯塞爾時，屋主推薦的一頓 飯，他是一位前衛新潮的廚師。那是一間專門供應 內臟菜式的餐廳，也是我印象中第一次吃動物的大 腦。 所有菜式也非常美味，所以如果你要到布魯塞 爾，必定要來 Viva M'Boma ！