Mīrandus: South America

For most residents of Asia, South America is another world – half a world away. Yet the time and effort required to get there rewards the inquisitive traveller with a wealth of diverse and unusual experiences that are hardly matched by destinations closer to home. Our Founder’s Journey in November and December 2019 took Jackie and Roger on the Regent Seven Seas Mariner cruise ship from Lima, Peru to Buenos Aires, Argentina, via Tierra Del Fuego and the Falkland Islands.

Story by Roger Harris

南美洲於亞洲人來說是另一個世界，甚至是地球另一半， 前往旅遊，需付上時間和體力，但與別不同的國度和

體驗，又怎是其他鄰近地區能媲比。前年十一至十二月，

樂悠遊創辦人 Jackie 和 Roger 倆登上麗晶七海郵輪航 行者號，由秘魯利馬，經過阿根廷火地島國家公園和

福克蘭群島，最後到達布宜諾斯艾利斯。

夏羅傑撰文

Regent Seven Seas Mariner carries 700 passengers in 350 spacious suites, each with a private balcony. As a result of its major refurbishment in 2018, the vessel is immaculately appointed – delivering a genuinely luxurious experience. The cruise fare covers almost everything: meals, Wi-Fi, daily shore excursions, gratuities and drinks, including regular in-cabin replenishments of the beers, wines and spirits of your choice. With five restaurants, five lounges, a coffee shop and a pool bar, there are sufficient catering and

relaxation outlets to satisfy every taste and mood, while the spa, gym and casino complement the highly professional evening entertainment for on-board activities.

麗晶七海郵輪航行者號載客 700 人，有 350 間具露台的寬敞套房，2018 年翻新後，毫不費力地帶出豪華享受的特色。全包型船票，令人暢心地 享用各類餐飲、啤酒、自選葡萄酒和烈酒、無線上網、每日岸上遊和服 務小費。船上有五間餐廳、五間酒吧、 咖啡廳和池畔酒吧，有足夠美食 和休閒場所滿足各種口味和心情，還有水療中心、健身房和賭場都可豐 富晚上活動所需。

Our cruise included an extensive selection of shore excursions, as well as some premium trips for which extra payment was required, including a flight over the famed and enigmatic Nazca Lines in Peru. Our excursion to Peru’s Reserva Nacional de Paracas to see the dramatic coastal cliff desert scenery served as an introduction to the Atacama Desert of northern Chile. 郵輪旅程雖已包括一系列不同類型岸上遊活動，仍可自費參加獨特體驗， 如乘小型飛機觀看秘魯著名的納斯卡線。我倆在秘魯的岸上遊是往帕拉 卡斯國家保護區，看壯觀的沿海懸崖沙漠風光，為日後前往智利北部阿 塔卡馬沙漠添注腳。

Sailing southward, we began to appreciate the unusual geography of Chile, which stretches over 4,300 km north to south, but only 350 km at its widest point east to west. Chile’s range of climates and geographies encompasses the Atacama Desert - one of the driest places in the world - a Mediterranean climate in the country’s centre, and an oceanic climate with alpine tundra and glaciers in the south.

向南航行，我們開始欣賞智利狹長國土地貌，由北至 南共 4,300 公里，東至西只有 350 公里。智利獨有的 氣候，令地形多變，北部是世界上最乾旱的地區之一 阿塔卡馬沙漠，中部是地中海般環境，南部受海洋氣 候影響形成高山苔原和冰川。

The fertile oasis of Azapa Valley featured prehistoric petroglyphs (images on the ground created by removing part of a rock surface) and geoglyphs (images on the ground formed by the application of rocks, gravel, or earth), while the nearby museum contained what were claimed as the oldest mummies in the world. From the port of Coquimbo, Chile, our excursion took us to the Elqui Valley to savour the local wine and Pisco, a type of brandy produced in the winemaking regions of Peru and Chile. The renowned Pisco Sour is a cocktail made with this clear grape spirit, as well as lemon juice, egg white, and sugar syrup.

土壤肥沃的阿扎巴谷有着相信是在岩上雕弄的史前岩 晝，和利用岩石、礫石和泥土繪畫的象形文字，附近 博物館更藏有墈稱最古老的新克羅木乃伊。從智利金 博港口出發，我們前往智利和秘魯主要的釀酒區埃爾 基山谷，品嚐當地葡萄酒和皮斯科酒。而著名的雞尾 酒 Pisco Sour 就以當地西柚，再加檸檬汁、蛋白和糖 漿弄製而成。

From the port of San Antonio, we ventured to Valpariso, with its clusters of colourful homes and cobblestone alleyways ascending above a scenic harbour. Our excursion took us to the Petrohue Waterfalls at the foot of the Osorno Volcano. Next came Puerto Chacabuco in Patagonia, at the head of the Aysén fjord, into which the SS Mariner was able to navigate to afford spectacular views of the steep-sided snowcapped mountains on either side.

接下來歷險旅程從聖安東尼奧港口出發，前往瓦爾帕 萊索，沿鵝卵石小巷行走，欣賞海港風光和繽紛小屋。

之後，走到奧索諾火山腳下觀看瀑布 Petrohue，再到 位於巴塔哥尼亞，緊握南方冰河峽灣區咽喉的一處天 然良港查卡布科港口，而航行者號船身適中，方能穿 越峽灣，在船上欣賞兩邊陡峭壯麗雪山景色。

Continuing southward through Patagonia, along the Smyth Channel, afforded views of wind-swept mountains either side as well as the partiallysubmerged hull of the SS Santa Leonor, which ran aground in 1968.

沿史密斯海峽向南駛過巴塔哥尼亞，欣賞風吹拂的山 脈和遇見於 1968 年攔淺的美國軍艦 SS Santa Leonor 部份殘骸。

Chile’s southern coast is a maze of fjords and channels that culminate in Cape Horn, the southernmost headland of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and the northern boundary of the Drake Passage, where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet. Our route took us into the Strait of Magellan to Punta Arenas, an attractive city that is a starting point for many cruises to Antarctica. 智利南部的峽灣和海峽儼如迷宮，但最終在合恩角， 匯合火地群島最南端和德雷克海峽北邊界，即是大西 洋和太平洋相交點。旅程繼續穿越麥哲倫海峽到蓬塔 阿雷納斯，進入另一迷人地方，即是眾多前往南極的 郵輪啟航點。

We then navigated through the Beagle Channel (named for the ship of Charles Darwin’s expedition) to Ushuaia in Argentina, regarded as the southernmost city in the world. There is easy access to the wildlife of nearby Tierra del Fuego

National Park, which includes penguins, seals, and orcas.

不久，我們穿過以達爾文探險船命名的比格犬海峽，到達阿根廷烏斯懷 亞，即世球最南端城市，在此可輕鬆前往附近的火地島國家公園觀看野 生動物，如企鵝、海豹和逆戟鯨。

We sailed from Ushuaia towards the Falklands (Malvinas in Argentina) but were thwarted by the weather which was too rough for landing via the ship’s tenders - Port Stanley not having a suitable dock. Leaving the islands behind us, we then headed back north towards the warmer climes of Montevideo, capital of Uruguay. With its numerous beaches, colonial architecture and equitable climate, the city has consistently been rated as having the highest quality of life in Latin America. Our final destination was Buenos Aires, the capital and largest city of Argentina, known for its preserved eclectic European architecture.

因惡劣天氣，我們由烏斯懷亞往福克蘭群島時，因為斯坦威港沒有合適 的停泊點，又沒辦法用橡皮艇登陸，只有放棄福克蘭，往北走到較和暖 和穩定天氣和一向被譽為拉丁美洲最高生活質素的烏拉圭首都蒙得維， 有很多海灘和殖民時代建築。郵輪旅程最後抵達阿根廷首都和最大城市 布宜諾斯艾利斯，看盡保存完好的歐洲式建築，為船程畫句號。

Having travelled so far from home, we were intent on making the most of our time in South America, and we chose to travel on to Iguassu Falls, arguably one of the planet’s most awe-inspiring sights. The falls can be encountered from both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides, with the best viewing available from a stay in the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, the only hotel in Iguassu National Park. As the park closes at 6:00 pm, hotel guests have the luxury of access to the falls at sunset in near solitude – a truly magical experience.

難得往南美洲，距離家鄉這麼遠，離開郵輪後，我們繼續往譽為地球 上最使人敬畏的伊瓜蘇大瀑布，幅員巴西和阿根廷兩邊。想欣賞瀑布 最美景色，需入住伊瓜蘇國家公園內唯一間酒店 Belmond Hotel das Cataratas。當公園於下午六時卅分關閉後，住客還可入內觀看夕陽餘暉， 簡直是神奇體驗。

The final leg of our South American adventure took us to Rio de Janeiro for a relaxing stay in Belmond’s super luxurious Copacabana Palace, overlooking the iconic Copacabana beach. No visit here would be complete without a trip to the city’s famous Corcovado and Sugarloaf mountains.

冒險旅程最終站是巴西里約熱內盧。入住豪華酒店 Belmond Copacabana Palace，遠眺熱情的科帕卡巴納海灘，離開前要登上著名 的基督山和舒格洛夫山脈，否則就不是一個完滿的南美之旅。