Strategic Brand Development for Superdry S/S 2020

Wake Up to Sustainability Collection S/S 2020

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Contents

Overview Aims & Objectives

1. Literature Review 1.1 Own Label Brands 1.2 Fashion Product Development Concept 1.3 Fashion Product Development in the 21st Century 1.4 Fashion and Sustainability 1.5 The Impact of a Market Orientated Strategy

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7-19 8-11 8 8-9 9-10 10 10-11

2. Strategic Justification 2.1 Objectives 2.2 An Analysis of Superdry’s Current Strategy 2.3 New Target Market 2.4 Product Analysis 2.5 Sustainability Analysis 2.6 PR Campaign

12-14 12 12 12 12 12 &13 13

3. Product Development Process 3.1 Revised Process Model Rationale 3.2 Strategic Benefits of the Revised Process Model

16-19 16-19 19

Research & Range Creation

21-43

4. Consumer Research 4.1 Consumer Research Concept 4.2 Secondary Consumer Reserach: Industry Reports 4.3 Primary Consumer Research: Survey Results 4.4 PESTEL Research

22-23 22 22 23 23

5. Consumer Research Outcomes 5.1 Pen Portrait 5.2 Consumer Board 5.3 Desired Brand Positioning 5.3 Summary

24-24

6. Code Create Trend S/S 20 6.1 Key Activewear Textiles 6.2 Key Activewear Silhouettes

26-27 28-29 30-31

7. Comparative Shop

32-35

8. Comparative Shop Summary 8.1 Price Points 8.2 Composition 8.3 Properties 8.4 Assortment 8.5 Care Instructions 8.6 Details

36-37 36 36 36 36 37 37

48-49 50-51

9. Directional Shop

38-39

10. Trend Translation

40-42

The Range

46-53

11. Range Classification 11.1 Core Garments 11.2 Fashion Garments 11.3 Hero Garments

46-53 55 55 55

12. Range Rationale 12.1 Fashionability 12.2 Fabrics and Properties 12.3 Care Instructions 12.4 Colour Palette 12.5 Styling 12.6 Assortment

56-58 56 56 56 -57 57 58 58

13. Seasonal Drop Schedule 13.1 Summary

60 60

14. Range Costing 14.1 Price Architecture 14.2 Competitor Pricing

62-64 64 64

15. Strategic Summary 15. 1 Strategic Relevance of the Overall Brand Development

66-67 66-67

16. Appendix

70-77

17. References

78-85

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Figures

4

1.

SMART Target Table

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2.

Wake Up to Sustainability logo

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3.

Revised Process Model

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4.

Consumer pen portrait

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5.

Consumer board

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6.

Perceptual Map

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7.

Code Create trend

26-27

8.

Key activewear materials

28-29

9.

Key activewear silhouettes

30-31

10.

Cycling Shorts

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11.

Racerback Tank Top

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12.

Cropped Sleeveless Tank Top

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13.

Cropped Hoodie

35

14.

Directional Shop Board(s)

38-39

15.

Trend Translation Board(s)

40 & 41-42

16.

Range Plan

46-47

17.

Product Details A

48-49

18.

Product Details B

50-51

19.

Product Details

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20.

Activewear S/S 20 Performance Icons

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21.

Range Classification

54

22.

Seasonal Drop Schedule

60

23. Costing

62-63

Process Models

Appendix

70-73

A.

The Textile Design Process (Studd, 2000)

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B.

The Buying Cycle (Goworek, 2007)

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C. Essential Stages of the Fashion Product Development Process (Goworek, 2010)

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D. Retail Product Development Process (Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst, 1999)

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E. The Refashioning Process Model (Dissnalyke and Sinha, 2013)

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Strategic Report Documents

74-75

F.

Boston Consulting Group Matrix

74

G.

PESTEL Analysis

75

Consumer Research: Survey

76-77

H.

Survey Age Group

76

I.

Superdry’s Current Sales

76

J.

Why Consumers do not Shop at Superdry

K.

Consumers Perceptions of Superdry

L.

Frequency of Sportswear wearability

M.

Frequency of Sportswear purchases

N.

Awareness of Superdry Sport

O.

Perception of Superdry Compared to Competitors

P.

Sustainability Awareness

Q.

Interest in Sustainability

R.

Consumers Perception of Sustainability

S.

Consumers Purchase Intentions for the New Range

76 76 76 76 76 76 77 77 77 77

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Overview, Aims & Objectives

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1. Literature Review

1.1 Own Label Brands

The fashion buying role differs between two different types of retailers; the development of consumer products which are exclusionary to a retailer’s own name, known as own label brands (Goworek, 2007, Burt and Davis, 1999). Where as the alternative role incorporates buying finished products that are branded by other retailers rather under the retailer’s own name (Goworek, 2007). The main variation between these roles is the buyer’s involvement within the fashion product development (FPD) process.

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Own branded labels provide control over the design, development, production, distribution and store operations of products (McColl and Moore, 2011 and Goworek, 2007). This allows retailers to adjust operations in terms of pricing, quality, design and merchandise in relation to customer and market developments more quickly (McColl and Moore, 2001). For this reason, there are more opportunities

for retailers to differentiate themselves from a highly competitive market thus grow in terms of profitability and expansion (McGoldrick, 2002 and McColl and Moore, 2001). However, it is stated that the success of own label brands is also down to the corporate brand image as this is how companies truly transfer the value of their products and avoid them being seen as commodities (Wong, 2008 and McColl and Moore, 2001). This highlight’s own branded labels as a tool to achieve a competitive advantage.

1.2 Concept of Fashion Product Development

Jackson and Shaw (2001) and Goworek (2010) imply FPD for own label buyers involves a collection of commercially acceptable garments created by translating current and future trends, design concepts and ideas into a target market’s expectations. The focal point of both authors is that consumers define the product(s). Trott (2016) refers to this process as the translation of opportunities into tangible

products by a series of decisions.

However, there are different opportunities for new products that have different degrees of risk; new product lines, additions to existing lines, improving and revisioning existing products, cost reductions and brand extension (Trott, 2016 and Gersak, 2013).

Retailers should therefore consider how the different strategic options could be implemented to ensure the optimal choice before the FPD process begins (Johnson and Scholes, 2002).

1.3 Fashion Product Development in the 21st Century Gaskill (1992) states the FPD process includes trend analysis, concept creation likened to product attributes, sampling and range planning, however it is important to note that this process is limited to a specialty store therefore it may not be applicable on a mass scale. Wicket, Gaskill and Damhorst (1999) replicated the study with 21 retailer participants and found validity for Gaskill’s identified activities but an extension of activities that are spread over each of the development stages were found, such as styling and fit perfecting, sourcing and testing and evaluation. A limitation is that both studies are outdated, a more recent study by Goworek (2007) determines the cycle does not stop at line presentation, the next initial steps would be range selection, range development and finalisation. All authors imply range planning is inextricably linked to a variety of activities indicating the importance of communication and co-ordination however Goworek (2010) better reflects retailing on a mass scale as the additional steps add extra analysis to ensure the range is within the financial and design parameters of the consumer.

proposes textile designers, fashion designers and fashion buyers are fundamentally reliant on each other as they participate in the same elements such as consumer, trend and market research. Goworek’s (2010) has a better understanding as the three key roles discussed minimise risk in the FPD by balancing market orientation and product orientation to create a commercially acceptable range. The FPD process is therefore reliant on internal collaboration for success, this is supported by Luo (2010), however he suggests the most effective FPD process integrates external partnerships as well. Luo (2010) argues for external partnership integration as such relationships are key to be successfully responsive to consumers and trends while increasing flexibility and reduced time to market, the nature of the ‘fast’ fashion industry (Bruce and Daly, 2006, Christopher et al, 2004 and Birtwistle et al, 2003).

A large body of literature highlights following a fast fashion strategy enhances a company’s competitive advantage and increases their market share as it is based on demand, therefore it has the ability to reduce fashion risks such as excess stock, in-accurate forecasting and lost sales; reduced bullwhip effect. (Bruce and Daly, 2006, Birtwistle, 2003, Christopher, 2004 and Barnes and Lea-Greenwood, 2006) This implies that fast fashion has advantages however industry reports suggest that there is an increasing negative spotlight on the frequent turnaround of proucts in relation to its environmental and societal expectations which has adjusted consumers buying behavior and interests towards fast fashion (Stocker, 2019).

Gaskill (1992) and Wicket, Gaskill and Damhorst (1999) suggest co-ordination is highest among buyers and merchandiser’s however Goworek (2010)

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01.4 Fashion and Sustainability

Sustainability is a term that is hard to co-define due the wide variety of concepts in incorporates. Brundtland Commission (1987) Our Common Future Report, defines sustainability as meeting the needs of the current generation without compromising the needs of future generations (Gardetti and Torres, 2013). However, this definition is vague, it does not specify what is meant by ‘needs’ thus how do we then address the ‘needs’ of future generations. Brown et al (1987) states sustainability is a desired goal of development that is defined by the concept in which it applies such as Elkington’s (1998) economic, social or environmental perspectives. This suggests sustainability is a journey, thus the journey should address one concept first to ensure the requirements are understood and can be applied in practice.

Gardetti and Torres (2013), Shen et al (2017) and Payne (2012) imply the fashion industry has an extensive impact on environmental and social issues as such issues are present throughout the whole textile apparel pipeline. The Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group (2017) state environmental issues should be prioritised as the planet has already been pushed out of its safe operating space, increasing the risks of destabilising it. Fast Fashion business models receive scrutiny with regard to its environmental impacts; the frequent turnaround of products creates a sense of scarcity to consumers which consumers agree constitutes to impulse buying (Gabrielli et al, 2013 and Park, Kim and Forney, 2006). Consumers are therefore continuously over consuming which has resulted in a speed increase within the production-consumption-disposal cycle, which directly increases waste and environmental effects. The low prices and low quality of fast fashion also

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increases consumers’ willingness to discard and replace products, even if not damaged (Binotto and Payne, 2017).

Sutherland’s Drapers Report (2019) shows retailers have schemes in place for the reuse and recycling of garments to help address waste issues, however these schemes can be misleading as it is estimated £140 million worth of clothing goes to land fill every year, only 20% is reused and recycled (WRAP, 2017). More sustainable options should therefore be considered. Literature states ‘slow fashion’ is sustainable fashion, this moves away from throw away fast fashion practices and focuses on the quality and longevity of products (Gardetti and Torres, 2013 and Henninger, Alevizou and Oates, 2016).

Sustainable fashion is also associated with eco-friendly textiles (Goworek, 2012). These are made from renewable raw materials using environmentally friendly processors, while having triggered biodegradability (composting situations after disposal) and recycling capabilities (Poole et al, 2009).

These fibers are less wasteful however, they still have drawbacks in relation to the scalability of their production as organic cotton uses tones of water thus natural forest land is being cleared out in order to grow such fibers (UN, 2019, Henninger, Alevizou and Oates, 2016). This analysis implies eco-textiles in-conjunction with slow fashion is seen as the best movement towards sustainable fashion to address environmental issues.

1.4 The Impact of a Market Orientated Strategy

Narver and Slater (1990) refer to market orientation as a strategy that is based upon information acquired about customers and competitors within the target market. Thus, Inter-functional co-ordination

capabilities to create superior value based on the information acquired.

Lynn et al (2002) and Moorman (1995) suggest the acquisition of market information is crucial to new FPD success as it allows you to learn and react to changing customer needs and competitor performance. However, both Lynn (2002) and Moorman (1995) argue to truly understand the market, external information should also be acquired to gain knowledge of environmental forces that are inextricably linked to customers and businesses changing needs.

Rajagopal (2019) emphasises the influence external factors have on understanding consumers; factors such as economy, culture, social values etc. influence the consumers perceptions, attitudes and behavior. Therefore, if external factors are not considered, retailers will not be able to satisfy consumers needs correctly or stay ahead of developing opportunities and threats, instead competitors will have this advantage (Mason, 2007 and Eisenhardt and Full, 2000). The balance of internal and external information should therefore be applied in practice to underpin the direction and focus of the new FPD. It also suggests that using a market orientated strategy will result in the right timing of the product(s) into the market as it is an analysis of the current situation’s needs and wants; right product, right time, right place and right price is key to a valuable range (Easey, 2002).

It is indicative from literature that academics associate business advantages with market orientation.

The advantages stated are; increased profitability, a sustained competitive advantage, more satisfied and loyal customers, more successful products, more satisfied and motivated employees and increased flexibility to adapt to change (Narver and Slater, 1990, Liu and Davies 1997, Dawes 2000, Jackson and Shaw, 2001 and Carpenter and

and Shankar, 2012). However, Lings and Greenley (2010), Liu and Davies 1997 and Keh, Park and Shin (2015) argue the first and essential focus should be on internal capabilities for the strategy to be able to achieve these advantages. They state the quality of market orientation is completely reliant on a company’s performance and productivity, for example their ability to generate, disseminate and respond to information on markets. This suggests companies lacking internal focus are myopic thus it emphasises the importance of the marketer’s role within the FPD process; the marketer’s customer insights represent a framework for the entire business (Easey, 2002).

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2. Strategic Justification Increase Sales and Footfall with a Market Orientated Strategy The Strategic Report (2018) concluded that Superdry has no specific target market thus no product focus, this lack of consumer understanding has led to confused product ranges thus decreased sales and footfall. Superdry need to utilise the Revised Process Model to ensure all FPD activities and product ranges are defined by a market orientated approach for future success, as discussed in section 1. The key strategic directions identified for Superdry were; focused target market, sustainability and sportswear product focus. A sustainable women’s sports range will therefore be launched for Gen Z to increase sales and keep Superdry competitive, figure 1 highlights how this will be achieved.

Figure 1. SMART Target.

Sustainable Trend Driven Activewear Range

Specific

Measurable

Achievable Realistic

Time Scale

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• The sustainable activewear range will appeal to Gen Z consumers as they have the highest interest in such efforts • Making the sustainable activewear range stylish/trendy will ensure it attracts a higher % of Gen Z as these consumers think style is an important part of self-identity • The sustainability will also appeal to a wide range of consumers with a common interest of quality of quantity such as millennials and Xennials • The range will take inspiration from sports, premium and streetstyle, trend forecasting agencies to ensure the range is in-line with Gen Z expectations • 85% of the range will be bought by Gen Z, the specific target audience as the range aims to increase their satisfaction with the brand • Womenswear sales will increase by 15% by the end of the fiscal year 2020 through S/S and A/W sustainable relevant product ranges • Superdry already have the resources and product development teams in place to design, develop, source and manufacture a sportswear range for women

• The range will be promoted through new PR campaign look books conducted by Amy Walker thus the new social media platforms conducted by Jem Daniels to help increase and awareness and sales • The growth of Superdry’s sportwear is increasing YoY, especially in relation to their new specialist sports shops • Core competences; global established brand offering premium quality. This value proposition on a global scale is in-line with sustainability due to the demand of longer life cycles • The range will be dropped for S/S 2020, 19th February 2020 • Drops will only be in S/S and A/W in relation to a ‘slower fashion’

2.1 An Analysis of Superdry’s Current Strategy

Mintel (2018) suggests younger consumers have a high market share thus, have the highest demand for fast fashion. Superdry do not abide by a fast fashion strategy which could explain why they are lagging in young consumers and sales however they have recently attempted to introduce new products into their stores more frequently but found it is failing (BBC news, 2019). Law et al (2004) states the success of a fast fashion strategy is down to the consumers desire to be fashionable. This suggests the failure of their recent strategy is because their current consumers have a negative view towards new frequent products as they do not perceive themselves as fashionable. The Strategic Report (2018) survey also concluded younger consumers perceive Superdry as unfashionable explaining their failure to target young consumers even with new frequent products. However, as discussed in section 1 there is a negative spotlight on fast fashion due to increasing sustainability interests which has slowed the frequency of fast fashion purchases down (Dover, 2018). As Superdry are therefore failing to gain advantage from a faster turnaround they should lead a strategy that fills a gap in the market such as sustainability. Superdry currently maintain focus on affordable premium quality products, their average price is ranges from £64.20 to £228.47 (Edited, 2019a) however younger consumers also stated they perceive Superdry as expensive as they define prices by fashionability as well as quality (Baram, 2018a). Therefore, increasing sustainability with fashionability within the new range will allow them to maintain a premium appeal to Gen Z.

2.2 New Target Market

Current product ranges aim to appeal to a broad target market (16-50 year olds). However, to truly satisfy your target market you need to understand their needs, wants and preferences which differ in relation to age (Easey, 2002) therefore, regarding sustainability interests the age of the new target consumer group has been condensed to Gen Z- 16-24 year olds (Clark, 2018a). This ensures there is a concise direction for the new and future range(s).

2.3 Products

The Boston Consulting Group Matrix (see appendix F) shows clothing lines are weak and core products have matured, this can be attributed to Superdry’s lack of understanding of consumers thus their heavy reliance on product amendment. These categories could be improved however sportswear has been identified as a star; a growing category in terms of sales and opportunities therefore there is room to capitalise, which Superdry have already done by introducing specialist sports stores (Strategic Report, 2018). The market also shows there is a sportswear evolution, particularly in womenswear; 5.1% growth in 2018

2.4 Sustainability

Sustainability increases differentiation and competitive advantage for retailers thus, retailers can increase their market share by targeting younger consumers as they are the conscious generation who receive satisfaction from such efforts (Kalish et al, 2018 and Baram, 2018c). This is supported by the Strategic Report (2018) PESTEL analysis (see appendix G) which highlights Gen Z’s interest and increased willingness to spend on sustainable products.

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As discussed in section 1, the most effective movement towards environmental sustainability includes eco-textiles in-conjunction with slow fashion. Superdry are known for their premium quality products which in-line with sustainability works well due to the demand of longer life cycles. Therefore, to include sustainability into the new range Superdry will capitalise on their quality and the longevity of garments with natural biodegradable materials. Superdry already have a sustainable framework in place that focuses on and has aims for people, products and the planet, however their focus on products only includes 100% Organic Cotton which supports the obligation for other biodegradable materials.

Despite this, it is essential the design expectations of the consumer are met.

Baram (2018a) states younger shoppers are interested in the finer details such as fashion-ability, technical fit, and materials such as eco-textiles, which are aspects that will justify Superdry’s price tag ensuring Gen Z see value for money.

Sportswear competitors such as Nike, Puma and Adidas have all announced initiatives to incorporate advances in materials into their products (Baram, 2018b).

However, their current product ranges include recycled materials which consist of intense production processes; chemical emissions and energy waste (Dissnalyke and Sinha 2013). Superdry’s range consisting of natural biodegradable materials will therefore be a profitable option as it fills a gap on the high street.

2.5 PR Campaign

The new Wake Up to Sustainability sportswear collection will be launched along side the new Wake Up campaign. This aim is to present Superdry to the public as a sustainable brand, to develop positive publicity and create a buzz of excitement and exhilaration come the launch (Walker, 2019). This campaign will be fulled by social media, press realses and a launch event; Ministry of sound.

To increase awarness a new trade mark will be present in-conjunction with the new Wake Up to Sustainability collection and PR campaign (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Wake Up to Sustainability Trade Mark.

Wake Up to Sustainability 14

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3. Product Development Process 3.1 Revised Process Model Rationale

A process model (PM) interprets a sequence of activities and operations within the functionality of a business process (Propper, 2005 and Kalpič and Bernus, 2006). The aim is to envision, evaluation and improve the functionality of the process (Nugteren et al, 2012 and Vernadat, 1996). Bender and Fish (2000) highlight the knowledge of employees involved within a process differs in relation to their own interpretation, especially globally, however the knowledge management involved in a process model helps eliminate this as a barrier. The revised PM will therefore act as a standard between all employees.

The revised PM includes initial phases from Studd’s (2000) Textile Design Process; planning, research, range development and production (see appendix A). However, this process is limited to textile designers therefore to make it applicable to the buyers journey the chronological sequence of events have also been inspired by Goworek’s (2010) Essential Stages of The FPD process (see appendix C) thus a synthesis and extension in line with Goworek’s (2007) complete Buying Cycle (see appendix B). Goworek’s (2010) and (2007) corresponding steps are trend research, comparative and directional shop thus range selection and elaboration. However, Goworek (2007) emphasises the need for a buying plan to give the range direction, negotiation with suppliers in relation to price and any amendments needed after the first initial sample requests. Thus, the manufacture, retailers’ deliveries and consumers purchase which have all been applied to the revised PM. Studd’s (2000) and Goworek’s (2010) and (2007) models withhold specific

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detail on aspects within the concept development but Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst (1999) Retail Product Development Process (see appendix D) shows the details of this decision point; colours, silhouettes, style, sustainable fabric decisions and fabric sourcing. These are shown on the revised process model with arrows of backward motion as the model suggest these elements are inextricably linked, therefore they have to be changed in relation to each other to ensure synthesis across all design details. For example, the sustainable fabric structure drapes right within the chosen silhouette(s).

Chen, Murray and Jones (2007) highlight communication as a management issue that can inhibit an organisations performance. The collaborative evaluation points throughout the process ensure the project team can evaluation and align their activities in relation to aims, objectives and the brief set; Studd (2000) states this results in a more advanced process. This is supported by Goworek (2010) who identified collaboration and communication as key success factors within the FPD process due to the overlap in roles and responsibilities with the buyer. Studd (2000) and Goworek (2007) also express the importance of performance evaluation at the end of each season to build a framework of successors and failures that define the following season. Therefore, a continuous feedback loop is present on the revised PM. Goworek (2010) explains the buying cycle has integrated processors between the buyer and merchandiser to control, plan and monitor ranges however Studd (2000), Goworek (2010) and Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst (1999) fail to highlight this collaboration. Alongside the buyer, it is the

merchandiser who concludes the the performance indicators from previous seasons which the buying budget is then based upon. The revised PM therefore includes collaboration when creating a buying plan, to ensure no profit is lost. Shaw and Koumbis (2014) also state merchandisers collaborate with buyers to determine the quantities, sizes and colourways needed to deliver a logical range. Thus, sales are forecasted by merchandisers which informs buyers of their specific purchase goals (Shaw and Koumbis, 2014). This shows buyers and merchandisers are reliant on each other to create a cohesive and precise range plan, therefore the revised PM highlights range selection and elaboration as key collaboration stages.

There is a lack of academic research on products end of life cycle management within retailer’s processors, such as unsold stock, all the previous models discussed also fail to demonstrate this. However, excess stock has grown by 6% year on year due to the uncertainty of the market and there are increasing consumer concerns (Clark, 2018b). Even with the spotlight retailers are failing to inform their unsold stock practices (Cooper, 2018), this has resulted in pressure from the Environmental Audit Committee (2019) who state reusing and recycling unsold stock should be a priority.

Superdry have a system in place which is presented on the revised process model, they are partnered with REGAIN who specialise in the reuse and recycling of unwanted clothing (Superdry, 2019).

Dissnalyke and Sinha (2013) agree reusing and recycling is effective however they argue refashioning is more efficient than recycling as recycling is resource intensive thus certain fibres cannot be recycled due to their composition. This highlights that for Superdry to be truly sustainable they need to consider alternatives in the

Dissnalyke and Sinha (2013) Refashioning Process Model (see appendix E) is shown within the revised process model for future efficiency. Thus, waste management strategies at the production stage have been applied as the Environmental Audit Committee (2019) addresses this as another concerning issue.

Corporate social responsibility (CSR) is creating shared value for a corporation and its stakeholders by integrating societal expectations (Porter and Kramer, 2011). CSR integration is expected especially for large visible corporations like Superdry as they have the responsibility to set the standards for the rest of the industry (Seith, 2003, Gardetti and Torres, 2013). Literature states that CSR should be built into retailer’s business plans and company mission to provide clear directional and consistent flow throughout all team members and processors (Porter and Kramer, 2006, Vitolla et al, 2016 and Arrigo, 2013).

The revised process model shows CSR throughout the FPD process; thus, the revised PM indicates that the planning phase is directly influenced to ensure all team members are aware of the CSR expectations.

Negotiation with suppliers is also directly influenced, case studies suggest buyers put pressure on suppliers which leads to unethical labour standards and audit frauds (Barnes and Lea Greenwood, 2006 and Acona, 2004).

Therefore, the revised PM enforces a legally binded contract with suppliers stating their CSR expectations. This is a powerful tool that allows buyers and suppliers to discuss whether the transaction will be beneficial or detrimental to each party whilst securing legally bound promises (Smits, 2017).

In relation to the previous literature, market orientation should be integrated internally to achieve a competitive advantage. Internal and

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external information should also emerge throughout the FPD process to reduce unpredictability and increase adequate consumer value (Easey, 2002). This is especially important to Superdry as they are competing within a red ocean; intense competition, limited customers and market share (Kim and Mouborge, 2019). Overall there is a continuous sequence of events that retailers need to evaluate and co-evolve with at all decision points within the FPD process.

3.2 Strategic Benefits of the Revised Process Model

The FPD process includes a variety of overlaps and collaborations, however the main one identified is between the buyer and the merchandiser as they oversee the entire range plan unlike other roles who are incorporated at several intervals. This ensures Superdry’s buyers and merchandisers understand the importance of their decision making thereby encouraging a more precise range plan thus decreasing the chance of fashion risks such as over stock, markdowns and lost profit. The continuous evaluation points integrate the whole team into the process, this increases communication where each activity can be aligned and tailored specifically to the consumer. Additionally, the beginning and end of season evaluation points allows Superdry to address their lessons learnt, allowing them to improve.

The revised PM also ensures all Superdry’s processors and staff are market orientated, the highlighted benefit of this is the consumer focus, internal efficiency, customer satisfaction and customer loyalty. Overall customer expectations are accounted for to use as a framework for Superdry’s product offering to increase sales and profits. Waste management strategies and CSR are addressed to create a proactive approach towards consumer expectations. Retailers like Superdry are experiencing increased pressure from stakeholders in these areas, .

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therefore to be proactive Superdry should utilise the revised process model as a plan to lead the market.

In conclusion the revised PM incorporates consumers as a focal point for all processors and products which is crucial to Superdry as the Strategic Report (2018) identified no customer and product focus as key strategic issues.

Figure 3. Revised Process Model.

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Research & Range Creation

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4. Consumer Research 4.1 Consumer Research Concept

The revised PM positions market research throughout the FPD process however, Jackson and Shaw (2009) and Easey (2002) highlight the importance of identifying customers and potential customers at the beginning of the process to facilitate the following research stages; trend, competitor and directional. Once the aims and objectives are understood, the marketer should inform the design brief of relevant research. The relevant research includes qualitative and quantative secondary and primary sources of data draw conclusions upon (Jackson and Shaw, 2009).

The secondary sources used are already existing market research reports such as Mintel, the primary sources involve research obtained by the marketers themselves such as surveys (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). Such research has helped divide markets into meaningful and homogeneous segments. A pen portrait; written description of type of person Superdry is aiming to target thus a consumer board; illustration of targeted consumers key characteristics has also been applied to co-ordinate the targeted customer insights in to the FPD process. Thereby, creating a focus for all team members (Jackson and Shaw, 2001).

4.2 Secondary research: Industry Reports

It is stated that Gen Z should be the next focus for retailers; they are keen shoppers, 93% buy sportswear every month thus they are more optimistic about their financial prospects than the population as a whole. They have fewer financial commitments than older generations and have more active social lives which contributes towards a high level of financial activity (Clark, 2018a). In 2018, 60% of Gen Z said they prefer to buy products from retailers that are trying to reduce their impact on the environment, thus in 2017 40% stated an interest in eco-textiles (Dover, 2018 and Sender, 2017). Therefore, Gen Z’s financial confidence a growing interest in sustainability indicates their increased willingness to pay more for sustainability than other generations.

Gen Z have also shifted toward a more active and healthier lifestyle which has resulted in them becoming the heaviest users of sportswear and sports fashion (Baram, 2018c). Additionally, their interest in sportswear in-conjunction with sustainability is a growing ‘wellness trend’, WGSN macro forecast team (2018) view this as a mega trend, therefore the new sustainable collection will also appeal to a wider audience ensuring an increase in sales for Superdry.

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4.3 Primary Consumer Research: Survey Results

The conducted surveys key findings relate to how Superdry is perceived by consumers thus consumer aspects in relation to sportswear and sustainability. The whole sample of consumers stated they do not currently shop at Superdry because their products are unfashionable, especially in comparisons to competitors (See appendix I, J and O). This signals a definite need for Superdry to align their fashionability with consumers and competitors’ perceptions. However, 75% of consumers stated their perception of Superdry is also Sporty (see appendix N), this eliminates an element of risk when capitalising on sportswear for the new range, as consumers are already aware of Superdry’s sport efforts.

Findings also confirm the growing use of sportswear which ensures the new range is relevant to the targeted consumers lifestyle (see appendix L and M) .

Most consumers purchase sportswear monthly which eliminates the chance of overstock for Superdry as there will be Spring Summer and Autumn Winter drops only. In terms of sustainability 83.3% show an interest while 70.8% stated their interest should be addressed with the use of sustainable materials (see appendix Q and R), consumers will therefore be satisfied with the new range. Overall consumers said they would be stimulated to buy sportswear from Superdry if it was made from sustainable materials, blurred the lines with casual wear and if it was trend driven (see appendix, S). This highlights the targeted consumers as early adopters/majority within Rodgers (1962) diffusion of innovation model therefore the new range will focus on design elements and minimum technical aspects. For the full survey findings see appendix section 16.

4.4 PESTEL Research

The PESTEL within the Strategic Report (2018) (see appendix G) highlights legally an increase in the minimum wage, this can contribute to increased spending for Gen Z as they are receiving higher earnings than ever before which encourages them to make the most of their spending power. Economically the PESTEL states premium and value retailers are outperforming mid-market retailers, this can put Superdry at risk. However, the use of sustainable materials sets prices at the premium perspective thus sustainable fashion is used interchangeably with high quality and longevity therefore Superdry can use sustainability to their advantage. This will pull them out of the risk category and back into their valuable premium perspective. Additionally, the PESTEL suggests Gen Z use clothing as a form of self-expression, this implies that they are concerned about how they are perceived therefore in-line with the wellness trend they will have an increased willingness to spend on the new range to reflect their environmental responsibility. Overall the PESTEL supports the decision to justify higher prices with a sustainable range, including sustainable materials thus it determines external factors as a key driver of the new collection, which according to section one will ensure success.

23

5. Consumer Research Outcomes

Figure 4. Consumer Pen Portrait.

5.1 Pen Portrait

Scarlet is a 23 year old dancer living in a flat in London with her best friend.

Scarlet teaches students in a local dance school thus works on short term contracts with several theatres, which consists of a average pay of ÂŁ37,000 a year however this can vary depending on the job. She is also a influencer on Instagram where she blogs about health, fitness, dance and sustainability with 10,000 followers and counting, this gives her an additional ÂŁ350 per post, when endorsing other brands. She is very conscious about the environment and future of the planet therefore she prefers to spend on high quality, sustainable clothing that will last more than one season but still offers design or aesthetic elements. She is always active, she attends yoga every week and takes morning runs. Due to her active and busy lifestyle she is wears activewear clothing from day to night, therefore she likes it to be casual, technical but still stylish as her cool style helps with her influencing and is more convenient for when she meets up with friends for tea after work. She is living and promoting the wellness trend, even when she gets a weekend of she likes to travel with friends and family, enjoying nature and other cities.

Figure 5. Consumer Board.

24

5.3 Desired Brand Positioning

Figure 6. Perceptual Map.

5.4 Summary • Superdry need to increase their fashionability to become valuable to consumers • Superdry should invest in sportswear as it is a growing trend amoung Gen Z • Sustainability will be successful in relation to Gen Z as they have an increased interest and an increased willingness to pay compared to other generations • Technical fit and eco-textiles should be present within the new range to increase the value for Gen Z • Gen Z have increasing spending power which will ensure sales • Superdry’s desired position in the market; higher fashionability with a slightly higher price leaves Superdry positioned next to Nike, Adidas, Puma, Fils, Sweaty Betty and Gymshark

25

26Figure 7. Code Create Trend Concept.

27

28

Figure 8. Key Activewear Textiles.

29

Figure 9. Key Activewear Silhouettes.

30

31

7. Comparative Shop

A group of stores, competing in similar ways with similar target markets thus marketing and assortment strategies are referred to as a strategic group; this comparative shop is based on close competitors within Superdry’s strategic group identified on the perceptual map (Figure 6) (Varley and Rafiq, 2013). A comparative shop will be conducted on these competitors; analysis of current merchandise offered to help inform Superdry of any missed trends or styles (Goworek, 2007). Key elements for comparison are price, fabric composition, fabric properties, assortment options, care instructions and details as these can relate to the consumers choice of store therefore analysing these dimensions can help map the competitors within the sectoral competitive space (Varley and Rafiq, 2014).

Figure 10. Cycling Shorts.

Retailer

Nike

Adidas

Puma

Sweaty Betty

Description

Nike Air Shorts

Cycling Shorts

Cycling Shorts

Contour Workout Shorts

Price

£34.95

£31.95

£30.00

£35.00

Colour

Black/White

Black, Grey, Navy

Black, Grey, Navy

Black, Blue, Grey

Composition

Jersey fabric; 57% Cotton, 32% Polyester, 11% Elastane

Jersey fabric; 93% Cotton, 7% Elastane

70% polyester, 30% Elastane

80% Polyester 20% Elastane

Soft, stretch, comfort

Soft, stretch, comfort

Care

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Soft, stretch, comfort, wicking finish

Lightweight, soft, quick drying, stretch

Quality Perception (5-highest, 1-lowest)

4-Increased 3.7-Low price detailing, natu- but natural firal fibre includ- bre included ed

3.5-Mid price, 4.5-Increased increased prop- properties and erties details

Availability

XS(04-06)XXL(24-26)

6(XS)-16(XL)

XS-L

XXS-XL

Tight fit, midrise, midlength, signature branding; x3 stripes and logo

Tight fit, midlength, elastic waistband, interlock fabric, logo

Tight fit, midlength, midrise, adjustable draw cord on waistband

Product Image

Properties

Details

32

Tight fit for a body-hugging feel, high elastic waistband, print branding

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Figure 11. Racerback Tank Top. Retailer

Nike

Adidas

Puma

Sweaty Betty

Description

Nike Miler

Sport Tank Top

Training Tank Top

Running Vest

Price

£41.95

£24.95

£20.00

£45.00

Colour

Black, Navy, Grey

Navy, White, Grey, Black

Black, Pink, Grey, Navy

Black, Blue, White, Navy

Composition

Main: 100% Polyester.

Panels: 92% Polyester, 8% Elastane

50% Recycled Polyester, 25% Cotton, 25% Viscose

Inserts: 100% Polyester Shell; 97% Polyester, 13% Elastane

100% Polyester

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Product Image

Properties

Sweat wicking, breathable, cool, dry

Sweat wicking, Sweat wickbreathable, dry, ing, dry, cool, cool breathable

Lightweight, sweat wicking, dry, breathable

Quality Perception (5-highest, 1-lowest)

3.5-Dri-Fit fabric, mesh panel detail

3.7-Attention 2.5-Low price, to design detail, mesh panel natural fibre detail included

4.5-High price, increased properties

Availability

XS(04-06)XL(20-22)

XXS-L

XS-L

XXS-XL

Regular fit, crewneck, racerback silhouette, logo design

Regular fit, mesh back panels, racerback silhouette, logo

Loose fit, racerback silhouette, dropped hem, crewneck

Care

Details

Standard fit, Dri-FIT Technology, mesh panel centre back, racerback silhouette, logo

33

Figure 12. Cropped Sleeveless Tank Top. Retailer

Nike

Adidas

Puma

Gym Shark

Description

Nike Pro

Crop Top

Cropped Tank Top

Pro Perform Crop Top

Price

£34.95

£34.95

£34.00

£30.00

Colour

Grey/Black

Black, Grey, Navy

Black/White

Black, Blue, Grey

Composition

Body; 81% Polyester, 19% Elastane Front panel; 80% Polyester, 20% Elastane

72% Recycled Polyester, 21% Elastane interlock

93% Cotton, 7% Elastane

Breathable, light weight, stretch, soft

Machine Wash

Sweat wicking, light weight, soft, dry, stretch

Main; 69% Polyester, 31% Elastane Mesh; 80% Nylon, 20% Elastane

Machine Wash

Product Image

Properties

Care

Machine Wash

Sweat wicking, dry, stretch breathable Machine Wash

Quality Perception (5-highest, 1-lowest)

4-Mesh fabric 4-Glossy graph- 3.5-No wicking detailing, quali- ic design detail, properties but ty properties quality proper- increased deties tailing; zip

3.8-Mesh fabric detailing, quality properties

Availability

XS(04-06)XL(20-22)

Details

34

Sweat wicking, breathable, cool, dry, stretch

Tight fit, wide armholes, sleeveless, raised neckline mesh panels, cropped length, printed branding

XS-L

XS-L

XS-XL

Tight fit, wide armholes, sleeveless, raised neckline, cropped length, tonal glossy graphic design

Tight fit, sleeveless, cropped length, rear zip fastening, cut out detail on back, printed logo

Tight fit, midriff crop, stripe mesh panels, cross over detail on front, printed logo

Figure 13. Cropped Hoodie.

Retailer

Nike

Adidas

Puma

Fila

Description

Nike Swosh Cropped Hoodie

Cropped Hoodie

Essentials+ Cropped Hoodie

Exclusive Cropped Hoodie

Price

£39.95

£44.95

£40.00

£50.00

Colour

Black, White, Grey

Black, White, Pruple, Navy

Black, Grey, Navy

Black, Navy, Grey, Red

Composition

80% Cotton, 20% Polyester

100% Cotton French Terry

80% Cotton, 20% Polyester

Properties

Soft, comfort

Soft, comfort

Cuff: 96% cotton, 4% elastane Rib: 4% elastane, 96% cotton Shell: 32% poly-ester, 68% cotton Soft, comfort

Soft, comfort

Care

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Machine Wash

Quality Perception (5-highest, 1-lowest)

4.9-Natural fibre included, high price

4.5- 100% Natural fibre

3.9-Natural fibre included, Lowest price

5-High price, natural fibre included

Availability

XS(04-06)XL(20-22)

XS-L

XS-L

XS-XL

Relaxed fit drapes on the body for casual comfort, cropped length, long sleeves, ribbed cuffs, draw cord hood, signature branding: x3 stripes; logo

Relaxed fit, cropped length, hooded neckline, draw-cord hood, logo pigment print

Relaxed fit, cropped length, draw cord hood, ribbed cuffs, printed logo

Product Image

Details

Standard fit for a relaxed, easy feel, adjustable draw-cord hood, cropped above hips, ribbed hem and cuffs

35

8. Comparative Shop Summary

Below is a summary of the key comparrisons of missed style opportunities offered at competitors.

8.1 Price Points

Retailers prices range from value to upper-mass market, the upper-mass market prices are justified by the inclusion of natural materials and increased properties. It is crucial Superdry follow this justification to ensure a valuable positioning. Superdry’s focus will be on upper-mass prices to help distinguish their natural fibre use however retailers use multiples of £1 therefore Superdry should to, as a slight increase in price could lead to consumers perception of price unfairness, which can have a negative consequence on Superdry (Xia, Monroe and Cox, 2004).

8.2 Composition

Retailers use several types of synthetic fibres blended with natural fibres, particularity cotton to create fabrics with better quality however Goworek (2007) argues it is the natural fibres that give this better quality. This is shown within the competitors garments ranked with increased quality, therefore Superdry’s use of natural fibres will increase quality which helps to justify the slight increase in price. It is important Superdry considers the functional properties of the synthetics, especially elastane. Elastane is blended with a high proportion of competitors products due to its flexibility, this should be directly translated into the new range to ensure the same suitable performance as competitors.

Nike are the only retailer that shows sustainable material use; recycled polyester, this supports the gap in the marker for sportswear based on natural biodegradable fibre.

8.3 Properties

In-conjunction with competitors the fundamental properties that need to be translated into Superdry’s range to ensure the correct functional aspects are softness, stretch, comfort, lightweight, breathability and sweat wicking.

8.4 Assortment

A high proportion of silhouettes with a limited number of breath and increased depth option is present throughout all retailers. Option depth is the number of colourways and sizes of the styles within a range (Goworek, 2007). The key colourways competitors have on offer are; black, navy and grey. Superdry should follow competitors to increase the success of their range as their current merchandise includes increased breath which has led to no product focus and confused product ranges. Utilising a limited number of styles and increased options also ensures there is are options to buy throughout the whole season as the range consists of seasonal drops only.

36

8.5 Care Instructions

Retailers feature garments that are machine wash only, this offers increased convenience for the consumer, especially Gen Z who is less likely to focus on the maintenance of their garments. A high majority of natural fibre is also usually consists of easy care when washing, it is important Superdry include fibre blends that allow regular maintenance to suit the lifestyle of the consumer.

8.6 Details

The higher quality garments offered by competitors consist of increased levels of detailing; functional or design. All retailers also include branding on their garments as their signature style however identified within the Strategic Report (2018) consumers view Superdry’s branded products as unappealing therefore branding will not be applied. For this reason, detailing focus will be translated into functional and design elements only.

37

Figure 14. Directional Shop Board.

The directional Shop takes inspiration from competitors, premium retailers and the Code Create trend to ensure there is a appropriate commercial but fashioable merchandise mix for the consumer. By taking this angel, Superdry can esure they meet the fashionable and functional consumer expectations.

38

39

Figure 15. Trend Translation Board.

The Trend Translation ensures the merchandise mix is different from current offerings within Superdry to generate Gen Z’s attention.

Design elements are functional and fashionable to meetthe consumers lifestyle, Superdry can maximise sales with this commercial translation.

40

41

42

“We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect instead of wastefulness.�

Aldo Leopold (1949)

43

44

The Range

45

Figure 16. Range Plan.

46

Womenswear S/S 2020

Wake Up Collection

47

Womenswear S/S 2020: Product Details Figure 17. Product Details A.

48

49

Womenswear S/S 2020: Product Details Figure 18. Product Details B.

50

51

Womenswear S/S 2020: Product Details Figure 19. Product Details C.

52

Figure 20. Activewear S/S 20 Performance Icons (Varga, 2018c).

53

11. Range Classification

Figure 21. Range Classification.

The right commercial balance of merchandise should be offered within a range through the right mix of core and fashionable products (Goworek, 2007). The new womenswear sports range has been categorised into product classifications (Figure 21). High street retailers have a higher percentage mix of core and fashion products as their customer needs are simple, therefore these take up a high majority of the range (Clark, 2015).

Gen Z are more fashion conscious thus section 4 states increased fashionability as an attribute of Gen Z’s value for money. This has helped justify the product mix and fashion attributes. A higher ratio of tops to bottoms is applied to increase the versatility of the range, different tops can be worn with different bottoms for a new outfit appeal (Jackson and Shaw, 2009).

54

11.1 Core Garments

Goworek (2007) states core products are those that are not trend led and remain within the range over multiple of seasons however Clark (2015) argues core product trend attributes are determined by how fashionable the consumer is perceived. As Gen Z are fashion conscious consumers core products also include fashionable attributes. Additionally, the smaller balance of core to fashionable products within the mix ensures consumers can distinguish the range as fashionable as too many core products can decrease this perception. However, core products are still important as their basic designs align with longer life cycles and versatile product options. The core silhouettes within the range are; Cropped Hoodie, Cycling Shorts, Seamless Co-ord, however product classification also relates to colour (Goworek, 2007). These garments offered in greys, black and navy provide commercial strength.

11.2 Fashion Garments

Fashion products interpret current trends for the targeted consumer (Clarke, 2015). Within the range silhouettes are more aligned with key elements from the Code Create trend (Figure 9) and directional shop (Figure 14). The fashion silhouettes are; Cropped Tank Top, Racerback Tank Top, Sports Bra Top, Wrapped Tanklette and Adjustable Parka. The details from the directional shop (Figure 14) and trend silhouettes (Figure 9) are translated into value adding features suitable for the consumers fashionable and functional attributes. In terms of colour Varga and Kostiak (2018) states earthy reds as a fashion update but also a transseasonal colour, therefore items are still relative to longer life cycles which means there is a chance a majority of these items will become classical items in the future.

11.2 Hero Garments

Directional trend products are classified as hero garments, these are used for fashion credibility (Clark, 2015). The hero silhouettes are; Explorer Track-Pants and the Versatile Shorts Set however Varga and Kostiak (2018) classifies neptune blue as an essential colour that helps reflect the trend directly. Therefore, this colour has been applied to core and fashionable garments to provide successful depth, ensuring a percentage of core and fashionable silhouettes are appealing to the heightened fashion conscious consumer. The Explorer Track-Pants originate with streetwear trends as they fuse aesthetics and utility, which increases the fashionability and versatile appeal of the garment.

The Versatile Short Set translates the merge of science technology and fashion within the Code Create trend as thermochromic dye, this is a more commercial translation in relation to inspiration within the directional shop; Unseen, Vollebak and Twenty-four15 (Figue 14). These versatile silhouettes was also identified by Varga (2018) as new innovative directions for the season. Both of these garments will be used to capture consumers attention. Hero garments have increased risks however they tend to be adopted more by younger consumers and their popularity is fulled by media interest, therefore with the help of the PR Campaign high sales will be secure (Goworek, 2007).

55

12. Range Rationale 12.1 Fashionability

In relation to the consumer research findings (Section 4 and 5) there is a definite need for Superdry to align their fashionability with consumer and competitor perceptions, this has been addressed throughout the whole range. However, this has been balanced with subtle design elements and functionality to inform longer life cycles and activewear performance properties appropriate for the consumers lifestyle and interests. All of which is illustrated within the trend translation (Figure 15). The nature of the Sports Bra Top, Racerback Top, Cycling shorts, Cropped Tank Top and Cropped hoodie reflects the Code Create trend in a subtle way. Design elements within the directional shop (Figure 14); functional pockets, zippers, drawstrings and mesh fabric were applied individually or as multiples to these garments to offer a minimum sportive design update that increases fashionability and functionality. Drawstrings allow consumers to adjust the technical fit of their garments, which is a key component to why Gen Z purchase garments (Baram, 2018a). Molded Zippers offer safe fastenings and functional pockets present convenience for Gen Z, the digital generation (Moss, 2019). Mesh fabric is popular but full mesh garments would decrease longevity therefore a mesh back panel was applied to the Racerback Top to broaden its trend led appeal thus increase breathability and ventilation (Varga, 2018a).

To ensure the range captures the consumers attention the key silhouettes for the season were pulled directly from the trend (Figure 9) and directional shop (Figure 14); Seamless Co-Ord, Wrapped Tanklette, Explorer Track-Pants, Adjustable Parka and Versatile Short Set. From the directional shop (Figure 14) colour changing textiles were popular, this has been translated into thermo-chromic dye finishes which is a more relevant way to wear this trend in comparison to the technological developments identified that would also be too expensive for Gen Z. In relation to styling, the range is built upon colour blocking to increase the versatility of mix and match sets. All garments also relate to the sporty streetwear trend (WGSN Catwalk Teams, 2018), therefore consumers can style items for casual activities and sportive activities, which was another purchase motive for the new range (Section 4 and 5).

12.2 Fabrics and Properties

Consumer insights show Gen Z have a growing interest in eco textiles (Section 4 and 5). Despite this, competitors use a large amount of synthetic fibres (Section 7 and 8) however, synthetic fibres become dirtier faster, are washed more frequently and increase the throw away nature whereas natural fibres have longer life cycles with consumers and higher quality (Laitala, Klepp and Henry, 2018). Natural fibres therefore have an advantage of biodegradability, but also increasing sustainability as a whole which is suitable for Gen Z’s desires. Competitors blend cotton with synthetics to increase quality, but the only sustainable material used is recycled polyester by Adidas (Figure 11 and 12 ), this supports the success of the new range. Synthetic fibre properties were translated into natural fibres for garments to meet performance suitability. Key properties identified within the Comp Shop (Section 7) and Code Create trend (Figure 8) were comfort, stretch, softness, breathability, moisture wicking and resilience.

These are translated into; Organic Cotton, Bamboo, Ramie, Hemp, Banana, Lyocell and Modal blends, their full properties are within the trend translation (Figure

56

15). Even though lyocell and modal are semi synthetics they are biodegradable thus they can increase moisture wicking and stretch abilities (Adusumali et al, 2006). Elastane was also a key synthetic used by competitors, 20% elastane is used for stretching sportswear and smaller percentages help garments maintain shape, therefore Modal is present in all garments as a replica (Goworek, 2007). Morton and Hearle (2008) and Adusmali et al (2006) and Mussig (2010) state all these fibres are also strong which means they have good resilience; Organic Cotton, Bamboo and Lyocell are the softest, Bamboo acts as an anti-bacterial, odour controller and UV protector, Hemp is also a UV protector. Thus, Ramie and Lyocell are flexible and resilient to wrinkles. No coatings are therefore needed as the properties are already suitable for consumers activities and interests in multidisciplinary activities, from casual to sport. Core products have higher blends of organic cotton to help justify the lower price and increased volumes. All fibres take knit and woven structures, the use of mesh, variegated seam free constructions and thermochromic dye is relative to the trend, translating these into natural materials ensures the range is sustainable but stylish for the consumer.

12.3 Care Instructions

The comparative shop identified all garments as machine washable (Section 7 and 8). The consumer profile shows that the targeted consumer has a busy and active lifestyle, she is also young therefore it is preferred that less maintenance is needed when it comes to clothes. Natural fibres are therefore relevant for the consumer as natural fibres don’t get as dirty as synthetics which means they need to be washed less frequently, also they are easy to care for (Nayak and Padhye, 2015). Machine was at 27C or slightly higher gives the best results, this procedure will be available within the Care labelling on all garments (Nayak and Padhye, 2015). Quality control checks and fabric testing are also carried out to ensure the fibre, design details and colour fastness are suitable for the increase quality and longevity of garments.

12.4 Colour Palette

The colour palette consists of direct inspiration from the trend (Figure 7), directional shop (Figure 14) and comparative shop (Section 7 and 8). The Code Create trend states polluting greys, earthy reds, navy, black and digital neptune blue as a reflection of nature’s relationship with technology. These tones are relative to Gen Z as they have increased interest in nature in-conjunction with sustainability, but they are also referred to as the digital generation (Moss, 2019).

For this reason, the combination of these colours are used to emulate their lifestyle. Varga and Kostiak (2018) also imply that this dark summer palette has a versatile and transseasonal appeal which helps translate the longevity of garments. However, neptune blue is a direct trend update from traditional neon’s therefore, this has been applied as a pop of colour choice to the range to help capture the fashion conscious consumer. Similarly, the directional shop shows premium aspirational brands indulging in the same colours; Calvin Klien, Lurve, Fendi and Stella McCartney, this ensures the tones correspond to the expected fashion-ability of Gen Z. From the comp shop (Section 7), classical colours such as black, navy and greys were dominant. Consequently, these tones have been applied as the core colours to ensure the palette appeals to a wide audience, while clean bursts of reds and neptune blue help the consumer distinguish the range as fashionable and aside from Superdry’s current merchandise.

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12.5 Styling

The directional shop (Figure 14) identifies matching sets as a continuing popularity among activewear therefore the range is based on increased co-ordination and colour blocking. Sets are present however to increase the versatility and utilisation of the range they will be offered as separates. Consumers can then wear the full look or mix and match pieces according to the occasion whether it be a casual or sports activity. Garments can also be styled with consumers current wardrobes, all of which increases their purchase motive. This also aligns with the versatile styling of silhouettes identified within the trend (Figure 9).

12.6 Assortment

With the sets as separates the range concludes to 5 tops, 4 bottoms and 3 jackets. There is a higher ratio of tops to bottoms as Goworek (2007) states this ratio creates a successful range. Tops are cheaper than bottoms therefore the consumer is likely to buy more thus, the sportswear category shows consumers buy more of tops rather bottoms and jackets (Goworek, 2007 and Baram, 2018a). This also increases the versatility of the range as different tops can be worn with different bottoms for a new outfit appeal (Jackson and Shaw, 2009).

The limited breath and increased depth of options has been informed by the comparative shop (Section 7 and 8) however, in relation to this ratio there are more colour ways of tops than bottoms and jackets to ensure increased success. All products will also be available in one or multiple core colourways to provide a commercial appeal. As for the limited breath all styles available are different from each other, this decreases the chance of one style taking sales from another while maximising the amount the consumer wants to purchase (Goworek, 2007).

58

Wake Up Collection

59

13. Seasonal Drop Schedule 13.1 Summary

A delivery schedule allows a retailer to manage the flow of stock over the course of a season through phasing. Phasing creates a cash flow, freshness in products while decreases the risk of running out of stock (Clark, 2015). The initial quantities align with the range classification (Figure 21), core garments are purchases in high volumes, fashion garments are purchased in medium to high volumes and hero garments in the smallest volumes. Even though core and fashion garments in neptune blue are classified as hero, they will follow the initial volumes based on their silhouette as younger consumers drive high sales of hero garments, especially when there is media coverage like the relevant PR campaign (Goworek, 2007). In total, 10900 garments will be purchased and shipped to Superdry’s stores.

To align with sustainability, there will be no transitional phasing or sub ranges throughout the selling period to leans towards a slower fashion rather fast fashion. The two seasons will be Spring Summer (February – July) and Autumn Winter (August – January). Introducing garments in February gives consumers time to react, July is not shown on the delivery schedule as this is a promotional period, garments will be marked down to make way for the Autumn Winter collection (Goworek, 2007). There are larger volumes at the beginning of the period due to the media coverage from the PR Campaign that will help increase sales.

The heavier garments take up a majority of February while lighter garments are introduced within the peak seasons (March, April and May) ensuring applicable seasonality. A bulk of fashion and hero garments are also launched at the earliest months to catch the attention of the fashion conscious consumers.

Figure 22. Seasonal Drop Schedule.

Code 2103321 2103322 2103323 2103324 2103325 2103326 2103327 2103328 2103329 2103330 Total

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Name Cropped Hoodie Racerback Tank Top Cycling Shorts Cropped Tank Top Seamless Co-Ord Explorer Track-Pants Wrapped Tanklette Adjustable Parka Sports Bra Top Versatile Shorts Set

February 700

March

April 500

500

May 500

June

500

700

500

Total 1700 1000

500

1700

500

500

1000

700

500

500

1700

300

100

400

700

300

1000

700

300

1000

500

500

100

300

3500

2800

1000 400

1000

2500

1100

10900

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14. Range Costing Code

Name

Image

Composition

Colours

Black Ocean Storm XS-XL Grey Navy

2103321 Croped Hoodie

94% Organic Cotton 6% Modal

Racerback Tank 2103322 Top

Black 70% Bamboo Navy 15% Lyocell Burnt 15% Modal Scarlett Red

2103323 Cycling Shorts

20% Bamboo 30% Organic Cotton 20% Lyocell 20% Modal

2103324

Cropped Tank Top

2103325

Seamless CoOrd

2103326

Explorer TrackPants

20% 15% 40% 25%

Adjustable 2103328 Parka

20% Lyocell 7% Modal Mushroom 60% Banana Grey 13% Bamboo

21003330

Versatile Shorts Set

Figure 23. Costing.

62

XXS-XL

Mushroom Grey Black XS-XL Neptune Blue Mushroom 60% Bamboo Grey 20% Lyocell Dewberry XS-L 20% Modal Neptune Blue 30% Organic Black Cotton Navy 20% Bamboo Ocean Storm XXS-XL 20% Modal Grey 20% Lyocell Dewberry 10% Ramie Burnt 40% Organic Cotton Black 30% Bamboo Ocean Storm XXS-XL 20% Banana Grey 5% Lyocell 5% Modal

Wrapped 2103327 Tanklette

2103329 Sports Bra Top

Sizes

Modal Lyocell Bamboo Ramie

50% Bamboo 10% Organic Cotton 20% Lyocell 20% Modal 20% Organic Cotton 35% Bamboo 8% Modal 20% Lyocell 17% Ramie

Black Burnt Scarlet Red Dewberry

Product Classific ation

Core

Fashion

Core

Fashion

Core

Hero

XS-L

Fashion

XS-XL

Fashion

Black Neptune Blue Mushroom Grey

XS-L

Fashion

Thermochro mic- Ocean Storn Grey Neptune Blue

XS-L

Hero

Selling Price

Retail Margin %

Retail Margin £pirce

Single Product Cost (£)

% of the Range

Total Quantity

Total Range Cost

Total Retail Value

£54.99

47%

£25.85

£29.14

16%

1,700

£49,545.99

£93,483.00

£69.99

55%

£38.49

£31.50

9%

1,000

£31,495.50

£69,990.00

£44.99

47%

£21.15

£23.84

16%

1,700

£40,535.99

£76,483.00

£64.99

55%

£35.74

£29.25

9%

1,000

£29,245.50

£64,990.00

£104.98

47%

£49.34

£55.64

16%

1,700

£94,586.98

£178,466.00

£74.99

64%

£47.99

£27.00

3%

300

£8,098.92

£22,497.00

£69.99

55%

£38.49

£31.50

9%

1,000

£31,495.50

£69,990.00

£84.99

55%

£46.74

£38.25

9%

1,000

£38,245.50

£84,990.00

£79.99

55%

£43.99

£36.00

9%

1,000

£35,995.50

£79,990.00

£179.98

64%

£115.19

£64.79

3%

400

£25,917.12

£71,992.00

Total

£10,800 £385,162.50 £812,871.00

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12.5 Price Architecture

The new range consists of upper-mass market price points, the average prices are within the current price architecture of Superdry Sport; average price is £64.20 to £228.47 to ensure there is some familiarity within the new range (Edited, 2019). However, even though there is some familiarity within the price bracket, there is more of a focus on the higher price points. This will ensure consumers do not still perceive Superdry Sport as expensive, as the price is justified by sustainability, natural fibre composition and properties (Goworek, 2007). The upper mass-market price points also have a positive effect on increased perceived quality which is aligned with the longer life cycles of sustainability (Dodds, Monroe and Grewal, 1991). The price points are slightly higher than competitors within the comparative shop (Section 7 and 8) therefore, to decrease the chance of the consumers perception of price unfairness, which can have a negative consequence on Superdry, the price points are in similar multiples of £1 like competitors (Xia, Monroe and Cox, 2004). This price architecture gives a more premium feel to the range, it capitalises on Superdry’s premium quality to keep them competitive.

12.6 Competitor Pricing

Edited (2019) identifies the average price of competitors at; Nike, £91.64, Adidas, £78.93, Puma, £45.32, Sweaty Betty, £64.66, Gym shark, £45.62 and Fila, £345.32 therefore the new price architecture reflects these mid to high prices to ensure the range is not overpriced, as this could make it impracticable for the consumer (Jackson and Shaw, 2009). Superdry’s prices will therefore target luxurious end of the market while also being perceived as affordable, as the sustainability, fashionability and natural fibres included in the range help create increase value for the consumer.

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15. Strategic Summary 15.1 Strategic Relevance of the Overall Brand Development

The three strategic directions identified within the Strategic Report (2018); focused target market, capitalise on sustainability and sportswear have been addressed within the new Wake Up Collection to increase footfall and sales.

The Strategic Report (2018) identified a new consumer demographic of Gen Z (16-24 year olds) as the most interested in sustainability which has determined them as the new focus group. Accurate consumer insights were developed (Section 4 and 5) to act as a framework for the new range, this makes it relevant to their needs, wants and requirements. Primarily, the new range is influenced by high fashion and directional trends to ensure the fashion-ability is aligned with fashion conscious consumers expectations. The increased balance of fashion garments compared to core garments is to capture consumers attention. However, the fashion-ability has been merged with functionality to fit in with the multidisciplinary activities within the consumers lifestyle. The price architecture relates to an upper-mass market focus as the quality increase, fashionability, eco textiles and technical aspects justify affordable value to Gen Z. Similarly, eco textiles are a key purchase motive for Gen Z thus they create a more luxurious appeal. In relation to the key trend silhouettes and comparative shop, the assortment is based on increase versatility in terms of versatile activities and versatile styling; casual or sportive, which will increase Gen Z’s purchase intention.

Within the range sustainability is stimulated by eco-textiles, increased quality and the longevity of garments. These products are therefore less likely to be discarded after the season thus even if they are discarded they are biodegradable. All these sustainable aspects tackle the key environmental issues related to fashion therefore Superdry are filling a gap in the market which can help differentiate them, especially from fast fashion retailers, while gaining a competitive advantage. This also justifies why fashionable trend elements are applied in subtle ways, to increase the longevity appeal of garments. With reference to this, the increased versatility of the range and the Spring Summer and Autumn Winter drops only translates a slower fashion to consumers, which is a key association with sustainability. The aim is for Superdry to be a fully sustainable brand who can lead the market, however as sustainability is a journey, other concepts need to be included within future FPD processors. For example, the refashioning of garments within the PM (Figure 3) should be an aim of the future as this leans towards a circular economy business model which is the most sustainable business model that minimises all waste and makes the most out of all resources (Henninger, Alevizou and Oates, 2016).

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Even though it is reported that consumers have a growing interest in sustainability there are a percentage of consumers who do not act on this (Dover, 2018).

Chang and Watchravensringkan (2018) suggest this gap is due to money availability, sustainability is seen as expensive therefore this suggests influencing low income consumers could be a challenge. However sustainable apparel knowledge is also an important influencing factor; it is consumers who are less educated on such issues that are less concerned and less willing to pay more for sustainable products (Lee, 2011 and Chang and Watchravensringkan, 2018).

Usually the less educated are consumers with more interest in fashion, however they state that their purchase and disposal of clothing is influenced by habits and routines (Goworek et al, 2012 and Lee, 2011). This shows that even the percentage of consumers with less interest in such issues can be persuaded to change their perception of sustainability by education which can encourage a change in habits and routines.

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68

Appendix & References

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Process Models

Below are the process models used to create the Revised Process Model within the report.

Figure A. The Textile Design Process (Studd, 2000)

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Figure B. The Buying Cycle (Goworek, 2007)

Figure C. Essentail Stages of the Fashion Product Development Process (Goworek, 2010)

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Figure D. Retail Product Development Process ((Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst, 1999)

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Figure E. Refashioning Process Model (Dissnalyke and Sinha, 2013)

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Strategic Report Documents

Figure F. Boston Consulting Group Matrix (BCG)

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Figure G. PESTEL Analysis

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Consumer Research: Survey Below is the conducted consumer survey questions and anwsers.

Figure H. Survey Age Group.

Figure I. Superdry’s Current Sales.

Figure J. Why Consumers do not Shop at Superdry.

Figure K. Consumers Perceptions of Superdry.

Figure L. Frequency of Sportswear wearability.

Figure M. Frequency of Sportswear Purchases.

Figure N. Awareness of Superdry Sport.

Figure O. Perception of Superdry Compared to Competitors.

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Figure P. Sustainability Awareness.

Figure Q. Interest in Sustainable Clothing.

Figure R. Consumers Perception of Sustainability.

Figure S. Consumers Purchase Intentions for the New Range.

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