Charleston City Paper: Dish Dining Guide, Summer 2025

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As the s ummer sun lingers over Charleston, extend your evening with a quiet moment o f s weetness. Nestled within Hotel Bennett, La Patisserie now welcomes gue sts into the evening hours to unwind with exquisite desserts and a curated selection of wines Whether you're concluding dinner or simply savoring something b e autiful, every sip and bite is a celebration of the finer things.

A TateofVietnam on JameIsl

A rustic loaf from Brandon’s Bread

It’s

hot hot hot in Charleston and so is the food and drink scene in the Lowcountry. Our new issue of Dish dives deep into favorite summer treats and visits some of the busiest kitchens in town. Grab a cold drink, find a comfy chair and dig in!

Charleston has exploded with incredible bakeries, and the city has never had better options when it comes to everything from croissants to bread to more uncommon treats. We peek behind the curtain with some of Charleston’s best bakers and bread makers, from home and commissary kitchens to brick-and-mortar shops. Find out where to get your baguette on Tuesdays, your danish on Thursdays and your desserts for the weekend.

Watermelon tastes best in warm weather, and Florence writer Libby Wiersema takes you from Fields Farm on Johns Island to the Watermelon Festival at the Pee Dee State Farmers Market. Did you know that South Carolina has a watermelon queen? It does, and Libby talks with this year’s winner about the role.

City Paper News Editor Skyler Baldwin explores the Lowcountry’s ice cream scene, from sandwiches to one of the city’s oldest producers. What’s consistent among these sweet treat makers is a commitment to using fresh, local ingredients.

City Paper Editor and Publisher Andy Brack writes about local markets, inspired by his recent trip to France and exploration of markets there. There are many differences between European markets and those in Charleston, but what is similar at both is access to delicious ingredients grown and created by passionate people.

Our back-page essay is written by Peter Washington III, a native of Cainhoy and the founder of the Washington Cafe, an art-filled coffee shop set to open in Mount Pleasant later this year. Washington spent nearly two decades in Baltimore and the Washington, D.C., metro area before deciding recently to return to his ancestral land to create a space that celebrates his Gullah Geechee heritage through coffee, art and conversation.

Our Top 50 list of restaurants has a few newcomers, and the fittingly named Hotlist includes the hottest places in town. (They have airconditioning!) There is much to savor this summer in Charleston. Stay cool and bon appétit! —Becky Lacey

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Sweet treats

(p12) Watermelon

(p16) Flour Power

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A place to connect Weekly markets hum with conviviality, community inside

Three places to get fresh, local ice cream to beat the summer heat

Everything you need to know — and a few things you didn’t

Charleston’s bakery scene is booming

Ashley Stanol

Editor and

Andy Brack

Cris Temples

SWEET TREATS

Three places to get fresh, ice cream to beat the summer heat

By Skyler Baldwin

Nothing makes a scorching hot summer day more bearable than a cold cup or cone stuffed full of ice cream. From classic favorites like vanilla, chocolate and strawberry to new-school picks like salted caramel and s’mores, there’s no shortage of spots in the Lowcountry to grab a scoop (or two, or three).

Wich Cream stuffs homemade cookies

Originally started in 2014, this ice cream sandwich brand creates rich, flavorful treats from good, natural and fresh sources, working with as many local ingredients as possible. Owner Jeff Moquin came into the picture about six years ago, almost to the day, he said.

“It was a true struggle for a little over a year,” he said, as the Covid-19 pandemic rocked the food and beverage industry only six months after he took over the business.

“But then things turned around.”

Moquin said he sources milk from local farmers to make his own cream and also gets eggs, fruit and honey to add to several of the brand’s flavors. All to make a “clean”

and fresh scoop of the frozen treat.

“We grow mint in our garden. We process whole fruit into nectars and compotes,” he said. “I just recently decided I didn’t want to buy heavy cream, so I started making my own. It all comes together to produce a really nice product.

“If you have never been exposed to the freshest version of this, you just won’t understand,” Moquin added. “You think you’re eating something that’s good, until you really look at the label and see what you’re putting into your body. … I thought I knew what ice cream was before I started doing this, but

A decadent cone from downtown’s Off Track Ice Cream

Wich Cream produces between 1,000 and 1,400 fresh, all-natural sandwiches per week by hand

Ashley Stanol

this has been an eye-opening experience.”

Moquin said it takes about three days from a table stacked with fresh ingredients to serving a scoop of the icy dessert. The first day of production is dedicated to building the base, melting sugar to combine with milk and a thickening agent. From there, he adds fresh fruit, nuts or mint to steep overnight.

The next day, any number of ingredients get added, depending on the flavor being made — strawberry puree, lemon syrup, custard, the list goes on and on, Moquin said.

The end result: Anywhere between 1,000 and 1,400 fresh, allnatural sandwiches made per week by hand.

“It’s a lot of work, but when you’re doing something as fun as what I’m doing, a 60-hour work week doesn’t really feel like a whole lot of work.”

• Wich Cream ice cream sandwiches are found in several stores across the Lowcountry. For more information and to find locations, visit wichcream.com.

Off Track makes fresh treats in-house

Marc and Melissa Zera began their ice cream journey in New York in 2015, where Melissa challenged Marc to make the frozen treat from scratch. When it turned out better than expected, the pair started thinking about the potential of running their own business.

They moved to Charleston and founded Off Track Ice Cream in June 2019, inspired by the city’s food scene and number of breweries. At their downtown shop, large glass windows look into the kitchen, so guests can see the desserts being made.

“We loved going to visit different craft breweries,” Marc Zera said. “I thought it was so cool to see all the people looking back there, and when we designed the ice cream shop, we wanted to include that same dynamic.

Other local spots to grab a cold treat

Ice cream from page 6

Large glass windows allow guests to see the desserts being made at Off Track

Off Track sources milk, eggs, salt and fruit from several area farms and merchants

Photos by Ashley Stanol

JOHNS ISLAND’S BEST BRUNCH VOTED

“Along the same lines, we offer ice cream flights, four different flavors that come on what looks like a beer flight,” he added.

Off Track focuses on traditional and vegan options with an emphasis on local, clean ingredients. Milk, eggs, salt and fruit come from several area farms and merchants. No artificial flavors, thickeners or stabilizers get put into the product at any stage.

“Any ice cream you buy, you look at the ingredients, and you just don’t even know what it is,” Marc Zera said.

“Half the ingredients you can’t even pronounce. A lot of it is just fillers, and most of the reason the companies put all that in it is the fluctuations between making it, shipping it, storing it, someone buying it and taking it home — we don’t have to worry about that.

“It’s a lot different than what we were doing in New York,” he said. “But we love what we’re doing and wouldn’t want to be doing anything else. People come into the shop, and we never have angry customers. They’re just here to have some ice cream. It’s just a part of the experience.”

• 6 Beaufain St. Downtown. Noon to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; noon to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. offtrackicecream.com.

Wholly Cow serves statewide

Wholly Cow has been a fixture in Charleston since 1984, making it one of the oldest dedicated ice cream brands in the city. Once upon a time, it had several shops, but over the years, the business model shifted to wholesale.

“We only have one shop now [in West Ashley],” said owner Jonathan Ruman.

“And we do have our original ice cream and coffee there. But now, we supply over 100 customers across South Carolina. It’s superpremium, low-overrun ice cream that a lot of people grew up with.”

Wholly Cow’s dessert is used in sev eral Charleston restaurants for their desserts, including 82 Queen, and is served at favorite spots like Bert’s Market on Folly Beach.

Ruman said it’s the same brand and recipes that generations of Charlestonians remember, right down to the classic flavors that have been main stays for decades, now joined by new favorites like Charleston sea turtle and banana pudding.

Ruman and his wife took over

Wholly Cow, a Lowcountry staple since 1984, produces more than 26 rotating flavors

business about eight years ago, he said, after owning several other small companies in Charleston.

“It’s been a lot of fun,” he said. “I came out of the food industry, so this is kind of an extension of that after I first retired. All food and bev is really interesting to me, but this — I mean — it’s ice cream. As somebody told me once, everybody is always happy to get ice cream. If you’re having a bad day, you go out for ice cream. It just solves everything.”

Ruman said the company keeps the cold treats as natural as possible, with no artificial flavors or colors and very low overrun — meaning the ice cream doesn’t have a lot of air pumped into it to inflate the quantity, so you get more bang for your buck.

The end result, Ruman said, is a Lowcountry brand with more than 26 rotating flavors that each “knock your socks off.”

• 3642 Savannah Highway, Suite 144. Johns Island. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Ice cream also served in several locations across the Lowcountry. For more information, visit whollycowicecream.com.

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Photos by Ashley Stanol

Everything you need to know about

watermelon

— and a few things you didn’t

JBy Libby Wiersema

uly Fourth fireworks might be in the rear-view mirror, but there’s still plenty of summer left to celebrate — or, for those dreaming of sweater weather, endure. Alongside air conditioning, iced tea, ice cream and other weapons in our hot weather toolbox, there is an agricultural product that carries a lot of weight in the South and beyond: watermelon. Feted in July for National Watermelon Month, again on August 3 for National Watermelon Day and during South Carolina festivals in Hampton County, Pageland, Duncan and Florence, this grand berry gets its much-deserved due.

If the term “berry” tripped you up, here’s a simplified but scientifically solid defense — “berry” refers to any fleshy fruit that develops from a blossom and has multiple inner seeds. Watermelons check all the boxes. (So can bananas, but that’s a rabbit hole for another time.)

Complex family dynamics

As if the world wasn’t complicated enough, here’s one more tidbit to give you pause — watermelon is both a fruit and a vegetable. A “frugetable,” if you will.

According to the National Watermelon Promotion Board, which represents growers, shippers and importers nationwide, watermelon is, botanically speaking, a fruit with origins deeply rooted in southern Africa. Many of its uses fall in line with

those of other fruits as it can be used as a sweetener, juice, dessert, treat and more.

It is also a member of the cucurbitaceae family of gourds, which includes wellknown “cucurbit” cousins like cucumbers, pumpkins and squash. As with watermelon, these vegetables are grown from seeds or seedlings and harvested in the same manner when mature.

In some Asian countries, watermelon gets the vegetable treatment when the rind is stewed or stir-fried. And here’s one for your “Things Russia and the Southern U.S.

Ashley Stanol

Third-generation Gullah Geechee farmer Joseph Fields on his Johns Island farm

have in common” bingo card — folks in both places love to pickle the rinds.

While “watermelon as fruit” has strong botanical support, “watermelon as vegetable” also has surprising legal precedent. In 2007, watermelon was named the official Oklahoma state vegetable. When legislation was put forth in 2015 to strip the title, the people just weren’t having it. Public outcry saved the watermelon’s official status and prevented a major battle, like the one in 1893 when — for tariff purposes — the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that tomatoes are a vegetable and not a fruit in Nix v. Hedden.

Charleston is home of the ‘greatest’

The big green berry is big business in South Carolina. Clemson’s Coastal Research and Education Center says watermelon is the largest acreage veg etable crop grown here. The state ranks eighth in U.S. watermelon production with an estimated 600 growers, according to the S.C. Department of Agriculture.

The USDA’s 2024 S.C. Agriculture Overview cited a watermelon harvest of 3,600 acres with a production value of more than $18 million.

Coosaw Farms in Beaufort County is a major producer in the state and supplies many restaurants and grocery stores in the region. Closer to home, Willie’s Roadside Market at Boone Hall Farms is a hot spot for snagging red, yellow and orange watermelons, seeded and unseeded, hauled in from local fields.

On Johns Island, thirdgeneration Gullah Geechee farmer, Joseph Fields, assigned a portion of his 50 acres to melon-growing this year.

“We aren’t going to have as many this time around — just a few hundred — because of a few issues, like poor germination and disease,” he said earlier in July. “But we are harvesting enough to take to the markets.”

The certified organic farm grows heirloom varieties like Jubilee and the legendary Charleston Gray — which food historians call the “greatest American watermelon” cultivated in the 20th century. It was born in the early 1950s at the USDA Vegetable Lab in Charleston. Breeder Charles Andrus is credited with developing a new crop of disease-resistant, high-yield, deliciously sweet watermelon with a shelf life condu cive to long-distance shipping.

Like Sumter County’s storied Bradford

watermelon, Charleston Gray’s popularity eventually waned but made a comeback in recent years. Today, farmers across South Carolina are growing it again, and most new modern hybrids have some Charleston Gray in their lineage.

“It’s a seeded melon with a grayish skin,” said Fields. “But it’s also a sweet, juicy melon. I get a lot of folks asking for it by name.”

Other popular varieties grown in these parts include All Sweet, Sugar Baby, Crimson Sweet, Royal Sweet and Ice Box — all names carrying the promise of delicious summertime refreshment.

“It really highlights the flavors of summer around the Lowcountry.”

—Chef Daniel Nightengale

A taste of summer

Soon enough, thoughts of locally grown, ice-cold watermelon will take a backseat to cool weather treats. The time is nigh to get

your fill before the produce section at the supermarket starts stocking anemic melons shipped in from far-flung places.

For a few more weeks, local menus will be offering fresh watermelon bliss. At Lenoir, you can indulge in a Coosaw watermelon salad with a basil pesto kick. Or visit The Watch Rooftop Kitchen and Spirit’s (atop the Restoration on Wentworth Street) for its sweet and savory tomato watermelon salad.

“The salad is, year in and year out, a staple of The Watch Rooftop,” said Chef Daniel

Courtesy The Watch

The Watch Rooftop Kitchen and Spirit’s sweet and savory tomatowatermelon salad

Watermelon from page 13

Nightengale. “It really highlights the flavors of summer around the Lowcountry. The sweetness of in-season watermelon mixed with the tomatoes, peppery arugula, white balsamic vinaigrette, and feta cheese makes it a refreshing lunch or dinner favorite.”

You can eat your watermelon at The Watch and drink it, too, when you order a

Watermelon Smoke-ito (Vida mezcal, mint, watermelon liqueur, lime and simple syrup). Like a passionate affair, the most irresistible watermelon cocktails are often defined by the coupling of sweet and spicy elements. That’s the gist of the watermelon Tajín margarita at Rebel Taqueria in North Charleston. And what could be a better foil for the pit-smoked Tex-Mex offerings at Lewis Barbecue than a Sandia? This bracing, biting reprieve in a glass — a blend of tequila, jalapeño, fresh watermelon and lime — is as anticipated in summer as Lewis’s Hatch Chile Roast is in the fall. There are many ways to experience local watermelon mania. Low Tide Brewing’s Watermelon Slushy and Sour Melon Splash seltzer are hot commodities right now. At High Wire Distilling Co., 8,000 pounds of Coosaw Farms’ Sierra Nevada watermelons were processed to produce its acclaimed watermelon brandy. And it’s always a treat when Folly Beach’s Pineapple Hut features its luscious watermelon soft-serve punctuated with a Tajín sprinkle.

Watermelon royalty

The state’s most vocal proponent of watermelon consumption wears a crown and

Lewis Barbecue’s Sandia is a summertime favorite made with fresh watermelon and lime

The 2025 South Carolina Watermelon Queen, Gracen Vaughn, will spend the year touring the state and promting her favorite fruit

During an appearance at a June watermelon festival at Pee Dee State Farmers Market in Florence, the Greenville native shared dietary facts with the public about her favorite fruit.

“There’s all kinds of health benefits from eating watermelon,” she explained. “It’s

a good source of vitamins A, B-6, and C as well as lycopene. And it’s an American Heart Association certified fruit so it is officially considered ‘heart healthy.’ ”

The South Carolina Watermelon Association, sponsor of the S.C. Watermelon Queen competition, has a current promotion called “Watermelon Fuels Athletes.” It touts watermelon as “smart hydration” that improves circulation, restores electrolytes and leads to better recovery than sports drinks.

“Studies found that watermelon is more hydrating than sports drinks, and it is effective in replenishing muscles after exercise,” said Vaughn who, along with other watermelon queens, distributed 60,000 pounds of cut melon to 40,000 Cooper River Bridge Run participants this past April. “It was the perfect hydration treat for runners and walkers because watermelon is 92% water.”

Watermelon, above all else, is a Southern state of mind. It’s that place where your rear end meets the cement step after a sweaty game of kickball. It’s the feel of a chilled, slippery triangle of melon placed in your hands by a smiling adult. It’s the tickle of juices making sticky trails down your chin. It’s the joy of spitting a watermelon seed a few inches further than your big sister did.

As the late, great Toni Morrison once wrote: “Watermelon is more than a fruit; it’s a time machine that takes me back to simpler days.”

Watermelon Fire and Ice Salsa

This favorite of South Carolina Watermelon Queen Gracen Vaughn is great served with tortilla chips or as a garnish for fish and chicken.

3 cups of seeded watermelon, cut into small cubes

½ cup of green pepper, diced

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp. fresh cilantro, finely chopped

1 green onion, thinly sliced

1 to 2 Tbsp. jalapeno peppers, diced (can use pickled or fresh)

Method

Combine ingredients in a bowl and gently mix. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour to meld flavors. Optional: add a sprinkle of chili powder for an extra kick.

A DESTINATION FOR EVERY OCCASION AND CELEBRATION.

Libby Wiersema

Courtesy S.C. Watermelon Growers Association

FLOUR POWER

Charleston’s bakery scene is booming

By Becky Lacey

Charleston restaurants have a longstanding reputation as some of the best in the country, but bakeries were not traditionally a part of that conversation. That is no longer the case.

“Charleston has always been known for its fine dining restaurants and celebration

Riz Del Rosario’s Butter Half Bakery produces Filipino fusion snacks

Ashley Stanol

A tiny bakeshop draws huge crowds

The Weltons first worked together in the kitchen at Husk Charleston before their cooking journey took them to the Yucatán and back again to the Lowcountry. In 2021, they started hosting mobile, wood-fired pizza pop-ups before opening the downtown bakeshop in 2022.

Out of the 1,000 square foot space, the shop is producing items that are taking Charleston by storm. From hot honey danishes to focaccia with seasonal vegetables to a muffuletta that gives New Orleans a run for its money, you can’t go wrong when eating at Welton’s. Its success is not just about the food they make, but the community they have created.

“We have always seen ourselves as a neighborhood bakery,” Hannah said. “Our location on upper King draws an intimate community of locals and those visiting Charleston with intention. From our bakery team to our purveyors and our guests, we put compassion and community first.”

The Weltons recently started a Substack account in anticipation of a cookbook. It gives people insights into how they create recipes and follow passions in the kitchen.

“One of the best parts of our job is getting to develop recipes,” Hannah said, “We see something we like, love, or we are unfamiliar with; we bring it in and try it as a team — then deep dive into making each ingredient taste like the best version of itself.”

Later this year, Welton’s will expand into an adjacent building to allow the team to offer even more. The new space will have seating and an expanded coffee program, and will occasionally offer pizza, bringing Welton’s full circle back to how it started.

• Welton’s is located at 682 King St. Follow @weltonstinybakeshop on Instagram

Bread born in the Carolinas

Brandon McDaniel has been a part of the Charleston food scene since 2010, and he founded Brandon’s Bread in 2022. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of Charleston, he worked in Charleston kitchens like High Cotton, Peninsula Grill and Edmund’s Oast. And he learned whole hog BBQ from Rodney Scott. After a stint in Las Vegas at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro, Brandon and his wife Kate moved back to Charleston during the pandemic.

Other can’t-miss Charleston bakeries and bakers

Bright Light Bakery operates under the cottage food law and specializes in artisan sourdough bread and treats. You can find it at the Veggie Bin and farmers markets around Charleston. Follow @brightlightbakery

Le Chambertin in downtown’s French Quarter offers daily lunch along with coffee, breakfast pastries, French Parisienne baguettes, quiches, cookies and French macaroons. Le Chambertin is at 113 Church St.

“In 2010, there was Butcher & Bee and EVO and you could go and get good croissants and bread,” he said. “And then those things kind of disappeared and those businesses changed. And there was a huge void for a long time, at least for bread,” he said. “But now there are more people realizing there is a void to be filled. I think people

Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop has served some of Charleston’s best baked goods since 2022 continued on page 18

North Central’s The Harbinger Café & Bakery — sister to Harken Café — has been serving some of the tastiest baked goods in Charleston since 2017. It offers hand-rolled bagels on weekends as well as the black and blue, a peanut butter cookie bar with maple sweetened blackberries and blueberries and dark chocolate. The Harbinger Café & Bakery is at 1107 King St.

North Charleston’s La Ideal Bakery offers traditional Mexican baked goods like tres leches cake, maranitos (ginger cookies shaped like pigs), cuerno (a croissant-like pastry filled with cream cheese) and cinnamon buns. La Ideal Bakery is at 1926 Remount Road.

Tiller Baking Co. makes hand-crafted, organic, sourdough breads using only grains, water and salt. It has perfect sandwich bread — especially now that it’s tomato season — that is equally great with some salted butter. Find Tiller at the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market on Tuesdays and as part of Community Supported Grocery’s CSA program. Follow @tillerbakingco

Photos by Lizzy Rollins

Jockeys from page 17

are putting in the effort and the culture is growing, and I think it’s going to grow to a great place and find its groove.”

Once back in the Lowcounty, Brandon leaned on his knowledge of artisan breads — he had taken an elective on artisan breads at Trident — and started making bread exclusively for Chubby Fish while working there. His next step was to form his company, and he started selling at farmers markets and other restaurants in town.

Brandon’s Bread focuses on naturally leavened, sourdough breads made with grains that are grown and milled across the Carolinas. McDaniel’s philosophy when it comes to sourcing is to “use what’s closest to you.” Hard winter wheats come from North Carolina, while everything else is local to Charleston like Carolina Gold rice, benne seeds and Jimmy Red grits.

Regular offerings include everything from a benne loaf to Carolina Gold rice loaf to a baguette. You also might see brioche, milk bread and fruit and nut loaves like cherry hazelnut or peach and pecan.

Another thing that sets his breads apart is that there is a long fermentation process, which both creates a more robust flavor and breaks down gluten, which makes his loaves an option for those with gluten sensitives.

McDaniel currently bakes out of a com-

missary kitchen in Hanahan but has a retail spot coming on upper King next year that will be a neighborhood retail bakery with some light café-style offerings. Until then, you can find him at the Sea Island Farmers Market on Saturdays and the Sunday Brunch Farmers Market at the Pour House each weekend.

• More: Follow @brandons_bread

The cottage food law allows for experimentation

South Carolina has a Home-based Food Production Law, informally known as the cottage food law, which allows people to produce and sell certain foods made in a home kitchen directly to retailers or to consumers. Products must be labeled properly, listing the name and address of the home kitchen, and the law allows for items like breads, cookies and some cakes.

This is a great option for bakers who are just starting out as it gives time and space for recipe and business development before investing in a commissary kitchen or full retail location. One baker who operates under the cottage food law is Riz Del Rosario of Ladson’s Butter Half Bakery, which produces artisan baked goods and Filipino fusion snacks. She started Butter Half in 2024 after she had a baby and was craving foods from her native Philippines.

Ashley Stanol

Brandon McDaniel of Brandon’s Bread focuses on naturally leavened, sourdough breads made with grains that are grown and milled across the Carolinas

Small Batch from Scratch

With Butter Half, Del Rosario aims to introduce people to flavors they haven’t had before and to preserve the traditions of her culture.

“I’m an immigrant and I try to, as much as I can, weave in — especially if I meet younger Filipino people — let me tell you a little bit about this,” she said. “It is a story that needs to be told.”

Her first baked good was a ube cinnamon roll that she sold at the Feminist Magic Market in Park Circle. It sold out in 30 minutes. Ube, a purple yam native to the Philippines, has a vibrant purple color and a sweet, earthy, rich flavor. The ube cinnamon roll is a constant on her menus and you can also find everything from banana pudding cookies to cinnamon espresso morning buns to sticky mango rice krispy treats.

• To see where Del Rosario is popping up, follow @butterhalfbakerychs

The amazing versatility of croissant dough

Allison Anspach opened Grit Bakery on Meeting Street earlier this year and is turning out some of the tastiest breads and pastries in town. She started her baking journey at a vegan bakery in New Orleans and fell in love with working with dough during culinary school in San Diego. She recently relocated with her husband to Charleston and realized her dream of owning a bakery.

Anspach immediately recognized that one of the silver linings of having a variety of bakeries in town is the choice that comes with it.

“I don’t want to go to the same bakery every day,” she said. “Some days I want to go to Welton’s and sometimes I want to go to the farmer’s market to get Tiller bread. There are so many food-oriented people here and I just see it more as we can all support one another and be this Mecca where people come to get great baked goods.”

Baguettes and sourdough are available daily with a specialty sourdough available on weekends. Anspach uses croissant dough not just for her plain, chocolate and ham-and-cheese croissants, but also for danishes and bread pudding. It makes you wonder why croissant dough isn’t used for everything in life.

Daily sandwiches are also offered, and a recent salami, provolone and pickled jalapeno on baguette was a standout. Salted chocolate chip cookies are a mainstay on the menu, and you will find specialty cookies like a lemon zest and grit.

• Grit Bakery is at 601 Meeting St. More: Follow @gritbakery

Grit Bakery serves everything from traditional baguettes to a variety of baked goods using croissant dough

Anspach

Weekly markets hum with conviviality, community

By Andy Brack

h, those village markets in France. What a delight.

Bowls of green olives, tapenade, nuts and dates. Fresh strawberries so sweet you could freeze them and grind them into sugar. Carrots, peppers, cabbages, peaches, nectarines, tomatoes — all fresh and bursting with flavor. Nearby are all manner of cheeses. Meats, including lots of duck in the Dordogne valley, fill the butcher’s stall and fruits of the sea are on ice at the fishmonger’s.

Nearby, you can buy belts, charms, bracelets, jewelry, bags, underwear, toys and more. These weekly markets are held just about every day of the week throughout France. They are a vital lifeblood of community life. Not only do they offer a place for local artisans to sell their goods, but they hum as arteries for people to connect and share. While French markets have flourished for hundreds of years and are a necessity for fresh food in places without grocery stores, farmers markets seem to be making a comeback across the Lowcountry. Charleston long has had a Saturday farmers market that gave truck farmers a place to sell produce and crafters a place to share their art. These days, there are at least 16 weekly summer markets in the area with at least one held every day of the week except Tuesdays or Fridays.

“The fact that you’ve counted 16 markets across the region is remarkable,” said Maud Bentley of Lowcountry Local First, which has been pushing the “buy local” mantra for years. “That tells me that the movement is not just surviving, but it’s thriving.

French markets (above, far right) have flourished for hundreds of years in local towns

“Hopefully, we’ll see younger farmers step up into the space as older generations phase out. As Charleston continues to grow and become more diverse, we’ll likely see the local market scene evolve to reflect that cultural richness and diversity.”

Mount Pleasant’s Tuesday market

Mount Pleasant Mayor Will Haynie says part of his identity is being “Mayor at the Market” every Tuesday during market season. He said having the market keeps Mount Pleasant’s sense of being a town, even though almost 100,000 people live there now.

“Despite our population size, we are still a town at heart and it shows at the farmers market,” he said. “I hear every week from

our residents how much they love our market, and I sometimes also get an earful or two about town issues.

“It’s the happiest day in Mount Pleasant and wonderful to see residents gathering and having fun.”

Haynie said he has attended about 100 Tuesday markets to meet and greet residents.

“The experience has improved my connection with our residents and my knowledge of farmers markets. He said that the key to a good market is having quality vendors who show up reliably.

The facility operates markets on Saturday mornings and Tuesday evenings.

“This is very much a community hub (with) the museum, the cafe with its lunch offerings coming out of the Colleton commercial kitchen food business incubator, the gift shop and the event space,” he said. “It makes being an entrepreneur so easy for our local growers and crafters.”

Mardell said that another advantage of the Colleton markets is that it has the ability to process EBT/SNAP transactions for customers who want to use food assis-

“Keep it accessible and not too restricted and the possibilities are really endless for markets to provide community-responsive opportunities for betterment.”

—Matt Mardell

“The reason it’s not year-round is to stay a true farmers market and not become a craft show or flea market when produce is not in season.”

He added that the Tuesday market, around since 1998, has been so successful that residents in the northern part of the community wanted something there. So the town added a Makers Mart on Fridays in Park West, where he also shows up to hear from residents. It’s not as big, but it’s growing.

Colleton Museum’s two markets

Matt Mardell, who runs the Colleton Museum and Farmers Market in Walterboro, grew up in England among village markets. He thinks a big reason that markets are an integral part of communities there is because Europeans walk more than Americans.

“If we can walk to the shop, to the butcher, the baker, the grocers, the markets, even the pubs, that is what we do and therefore they (markets) just seem so commonplace and successful,” he said.

A few years back when Walterboro invested in a downtown museum, it included a commercial kitchen and a market to push the “buy local” message, Mardell said.

“The farmers at the stands are people of our community who do that very primal function of growing for sustenance,” he said. “They live here and they grow for her and locals respond to that. The Colleton Farmers Market has a very diverse range of shoppers who are very loyal and who visit frequently.”

Find markets near you

Markets are seasonal, unless marked by an asterisk indicating it is weekly.

Charleston

• Charleston Farmers Market , Saturdays, Marion Square.

Goose Creek

• Central Creek Farmers Market , 1st and 3rd Wednesday, 519 N. Goose Creek Blvd.

• Goose Creek Farmers Market (*), Saturdays, 519 N. Goose Creek Blvd.

James Island

• Sunday Brunch Farmers Market (*), Sundays, 1977 Maybank Highway.

Johns Island

• Sea Islands Farmers Market (*), Saturdays, 2024 Academy Road.

tance through the state’s Healthy Bucks Program. That, he said, has increased accessibility across the community and makes the facility broadly attractive to lots of people.

“If we lost our market, we’d lose this diverse hub of activity right in the heart of our downtown that serves every single member of our community and had done in this format for almost 15 years.”

His advice for others who want to grow markets: “Keep it accessible and not too restricted and the possibilities are really endless for markets to provide community-responsive opportunities for betterment.”

Sundays at the Pour House on James Island

That sense of community that one feels in a French village market is as thick as humidity at the Pour House on James Island every Sunday.

Meg Moore, who co-operates the market with former City Paper photographer Adam Chandler, said the James Island market was intentionally created to bring people together more as a community.

“We want to create this environment where you can come and relax and enjoy yourself — do your grocery shopping, hang out and meet some new people,” she said.

Not too long ago, a visitor told her that the Pour House market was very like a European market, which Moore said was a huge compliment.

“The energy here is good,” she said.

• St. John’s Farmers Market , Wednesdays, 3673 Maybank Highway.

McClellanville

• McClellanville Growers Market (*), Saturdays, 711 Pinckney St.

Moncks Corner

• Moncks Corner Farmers Market , Thursdays, 418 E. Main St.

Mount Pleasant

• Mount Pleasant Farmers Market, Tuesdays, 645 Coleman Blvd. The weekly Makers Market occurs on Fridays at the Park West Recreational Complex.

North Charleston

• Holy City Farmers Market (*), Sundays, 1021 Aragon Ave.

• North Charleston Farmers Market , Thursdays, 4800 Park Circle.

Ravenel

• Ravenel Depot Farmers Market , 1st and 3rd Saturdays, 5775 Highway 165.

Summerville

• Summerville Farmers Market , Saturdays, 218 South Main St.

Walterboro

• Colleton Museum & Farmers Market , Tuesdays, Saturdays. 506 E. Washington St.

West Ashley

• West Ashley Farmers Market , Wednesdays, 55 Sycamore Ave. continued on page 22

Photos by Andy Brack

Markets from page 21

“It is the antithesis of being exclusive. Everybody is welcome.”

Part of the success of the year-round market is that vendors have the right energy and people seem to be cool with neighbors at the market. There’s yoga on the deck before the market gets going. Then live music starts at 11 a.m. And two hours later, the weekly house band cranks it up.

“The community vibe is alive and well at our market,” Chandler said, noting the market has been around for the last 10 years. “It’s really grown over the years and every Sunday it’s a full house with close to 50 vendors, including food trucks.”

The Sunday Brunch Farmers Market at Charleston Pour House features live music and dozens of local vendors

Charleston Classics

Time-tested establishments that are sure to please

By City Paper staff

With so many great restaurants in Charleston, we thought it would be helpful to create a new list of great longtime, proven restaurants that always offer an outstanding experience to create some space in our Top 50 list for the increasing volume of places where you can get a superb meal. Here are 11 Charleston Classic restaurants that we return to time and time again, knowing we’re going to have an enjoyable evening with food prepared by masters.

Organized in alphabetical order.

82 Queen (1982)

SOUTHERN

Moderate

Downtown. 82 Queen St. (843) 723-7591 82queen.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Sunday Brunch

The story goes that in 1982, three local restaurateurs decided to open a restaurant that focused on fresh, local cuisine and quintessential Southern hospitality. The result was longstanding French Quarter favorite, 82 Queen, which serves tasty, Southern fare, from fried green tomatoes to shrimp and grits. You’d be remiss, though, to visit the spot without ordering its famous she-crab soup. 82 Queen’s sous chef Lamont Ferrebee said the 43-year-old restaurant’s soup, made with a pound of white crab meat, is a longtime favorite for a reason: “Experience and consistency are the keys to any great product, and our she-crab soup is no different.”

Bertha’s Kitchen (1981)

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road. (843) 554-6519

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)

Head up Meeting Street until you see a twostory robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, home-style mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. Bertha’s building was announced for sale earlier this year, but has since been taken off the market.

Bowens Island Restaurant (1946)

SEAFOOD

Moderate

James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road. (843) 795-2757

bowensisland.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbowout yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat

oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

Charleston Grill (1997)

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive

Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522 charlestongrill.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience. Chef de cuisine Suzy Castelloe’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras, spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of the menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

Dave’s Carry-Out (1997)

SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-CarryOut-111720082197029/

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and finger-lickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy late-night snack.

FIG (2003)

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive

Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine

Rūta Smith file photo

Patrons have flocked to Fast & French since 1984

Grill continues to wow with its luxurious dishes, like the iconic coconut cake

and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard awardwinner for Outstanding Wine Program.

G&M Fast and French (1984)

FRENCH

Moderate

Downtown. 98 Broad St. (843)-577-9797 fastandfrenchcharleston.com

Serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (daily) Gaulart & Maliclet Café, also known as Fast & French, has graced Charleston for more than four decades. While it certainly doesn’t have trouble keeping seats filled, this luscious little jewel doesn’t get half of the praise it deserves. Any place that can actually survive in a downtown location for 40 years is practically a memorial. Fast & French walks the line between relevant and quaint, trendy and authentic, and it keeps things wallet-friendly.

Halls Chophouse (2009)

STEAKHOUSE

Expensive

Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090 Hallschophouse.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Lunch (Sat.-Sun.) Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous. And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears

of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said. “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”

Oak Steakhouse (2005)

STEAKHOUSE

Expensive

Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220

oaksteakhouserestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out. Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious family-style accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white cloth-draped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.

Peninsula Grill (1997)

NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive

Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700

peninsulagrill.com

Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Pro tip: Don’t forget a slice of the spot’s iconic coconut cake.

Slightly North of Broad (1993)

NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive

Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424

snobcharleston.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

Savor the Lowcountry with waterfront dining on beautiful Shem Creek!

• Selection of

Wines

• Fresh Seafood

• Lowcountry Favorites

• Cabana Bar Happy Hour Live Music on weekends SUNDAY BRUNCH

you-care-to eat Buffet. Plus build your own Bloody Mary Bar! 10am–2pm

DRINK

Adam Chandler file photo

Peninsula

Jonathan Boncek

Costa offers seasonal Italian coastal fare

The places you’ve got to taste

The Dish Top 50 is an incredible resource that will keep you focused on some of Charleston’s best places to eat without having to filter through endless online suggestions. Our curated list from a panel of experienced foodies includes places where you can have incredible, internationally inspired dining experiences, such as Bintu Atelier or Kultura. For more casual joints, head to Berkeley’s and Leon’s spots that are special in their unique ways. As you can see from this list, there’s no shortage of fantastic dining experiences in Charleston. What sets these 50 establishments apart isn’t price or location. It’s the dedication each eatery puts into providing dining memories. This is the list to give to family or friends who are visiting. It’s the list to scan through when you’re undecided and looking to remember a place where you had a great meal or find a new one. Enjoy.

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw Oyster Bar

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997

167raw.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not, it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were muchlauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-so-charming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.

Basic Kitchen

CAFE

Moderate

Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.),

Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. BK’s lunch and menus are divided into small plates, bowls, salads and sandwiches. Start with the ever-popular corn ribs or

cauliflower wings then dig into heartier fare like the salmon bowl, served with grilled salmon, Carolina Gold rice, marinated cabbage, carrot ginger salad, cucumber, seaweed, furikake and orange miso sauce.

Berkeley’s

SANDWICHES AND SUPPERS

Moderate Downtown. 624½ Rutledge Ave. (843) 501-7779 eatatberkeleys.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Soak in the North Central neighborhood from the front patio and escape King Street crowds at this spot that feels like going over to a friend’s home for dinner. Berkeley’s keeps its menu relatively simple but packs big flavor into each dish with plenty of options for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Opt for a traditional or vegetarian cheesesteak (made with mushrooms) or select another savory sandwich. If you’ve craving something heavier, look to chicken or eggplant parmesan, cavatappi or hanger steak. One satisfied diner said, “The spicy shrimp polenta appetizer has been on my mind for weeks since I first tried it. It’s filling, flavorful and definitely more than enough to share. Pair it with the smoked salmon dip if you want to start your meal with a decadent seafood spread.”

Bintu Atelier

AFRICAN

Moderate

Downtown. 8 Line St. (347) 249-6594

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Thurs.-Sun.)

This small restaurant in Charleston’s Eastside serves delicious African cuisine to excited guests who are eager to dive into

continued on page 28

familiar favorites like jollof rice, a fluffy rice dish with a connection to Charleston’s own red rice. Diners can also dig into dishes like goat egusi, a ground melon seed stew with pumpkin, spinach and a red pepper sauce, served with a side of starchy fufu. Chef N’Daw Young has cooked and traveled around the world, from her homelands of Senegal and France, to various countries in Africa, Europe and the U.S., landing in New York before moving to Charleston. Vegetarian options offered.

Bistronomy by Nico

FRENCH

Expensive

Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico co-owners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek.

Chef Loong Dim Sum

CHINESE

Moderate West Ashley. 1662 Savannah Highway, Suite 105. (843) 225-8225 chefloongdimsum.com

Serving Lunch (Thurs.-Sun.), Dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

If you haven’t ever tried authentic Chinese soup dumplings, or Xiaolongbao (which means “little basket bun”), you don’t know what you’re missing. But now there’s a shopping center restaurant where you can revel in these delicious bites. These delicate, addictive pouches contain a sweet or savory filling suspended in soup and wrapped in a thin dumpling dough. “We make everything ourselves,” Chef Emely Yan told the City Paper recently. “Like our own chili oil and different kinds of peppers to make our own spices.” Also featured are hand-pulled Xi’an noodles, Peking duck, five-spice chicken and entrees with Sichuan chili heat. Moderate. chefloongdimsum.com. Dinner, Wednesday through Monday. Lunch, Thursday through Sunday.

Coda del Pesce

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive

Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, longtime area chef/ owner Ken Vedrinski created a comfortable beachside Italian seafood restaurant that offers great tastes with an ocean view thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature highend Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful fresh pasta anchors the primi selection, which may include ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale and vacche rosse parmesan cheese. The menu’s secondi include fresh fish ranging from a “Torcino style” swordfish or stir-fried triggerfish. Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.

Costa

COASTAL

ITALIAN

Very expensive

Downtown. 320 Broad St. (843)969-2555. costacharleston.com

Serving dinner, (Mon.-Sat.)

Chez Nous

FRENCH

Expensive

Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light. Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine Europeaninspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining. Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.

Chubby Fish

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Celebrated executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

New to the Charleston scene in late 2023, this restaurant dedicated to coastal Italian fare features influences from the upbringing of Vinson Petrillo, executive chef of Zero George. The dinner menu changes seasonally and you’d be remiss not to try dishes that feature in-season produce, such as oysters served with olive oil and fresh crushed tomatoes. Other recent offerings include coastal-inspired fare like Tarvin shrimp, served with sungold tomatoes, garlic and Calabrian chili, and the scallop crudo, served with passionfruit, avocado and finger lime. With a broad wine list and Italian-inspired cocktail list (hello, spritzes), you’ll also enjoy what you drink here.

Edison James Island

INTERNATIONAL

Moderate

James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road (843) 872-5500

edisonjamesisland.com

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Be prepared for a loud experience at this place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients. Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood available in the area. Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles,

Ashley Stanol file photo

Chef Loong Dim Sum’s authentic Chinese soup dumplings house a sweet or savory filling suspended in soup broth

cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits, pan-seared local swordfish with chimichurri, green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.

Estadio

TAPAS

Moderate

Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.) and Lunch (Fri.-Sat.)

Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Eaton’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little

bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

Gabrielle

MODERN AMERICAN

Very expensive

Downtown. 404 King St. (843) 203-0922

hotelbennett.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner

If you’re looking for the perfect internationally inspired dinner, this is the place for you. It’s lush, quiet and feels serious without being stuffy. An attentive bar staff pours cocktails as inventors must have imagined. Chef Edgar Kano’s menu choices, influenced by Japanese and Latin flavors, makes dining fun, as we wrote in 2023: “Kano’s cooking philosophy is to keep it simple — he said he can’t live without salt and butter — and let the ingredients of each dish shine. He said overwhelming flavors can lead to ‘confusion, not fusion’ and that ‘less is always more.’” Ask about specials and enjoy fresh seafood, flavorful steaks and outstanding produce intentionally sourced from local purveyors.

Hannibal’s Kitchen

SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive

Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256

hannibalkitchen.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Sun.-Sat.)

Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years. After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens.

Herd Provisions

INNOVATIVE AMERICAN

Moderate to expensive Upper Charleston. 106 Grove St. (843) 637-4145

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Thurs.) and Dinner (all week)

This minimalist, farm-to-table restaurant has a high-end butchery that offers proteins to a kitchen that transforms them

into mouth-watering, satisfying dishes like seared steaks, roasted chicken, pan-seared local fish and luscious pork chops. Herd, also known for burgers, offers delightful vegetable-forward dishes, too. Examples: a perfect Caesar salad and portobello mushrooms stuffed with artichokes and capers. You also might want to try the restaurant’s spicy and savory dry-rubbed chicken wings, which are moist and pull right off the bone. Pro tip: Enjoy a relaxing outside happy hour under string lights and greenery with tables, couches and a large fire pit. Happy hour menu every day.

Husk Restaurant

Expensive

Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500 huskrestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Sat.-Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels from executive chef Ray England, who focuses on bright but simple flavors that utilize Southern ingredients. Diners can enjoy dishes like cornmeal fried flounder with dirty rice and collard greens, green garlic mafalda with rabbit confit

and seasonal veggies and a country fried pork chop served during brunch. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best. Pro tip: head to the recently revamped Bar & Patio where you don’t need a reservation to sip on inventive cocktails and small plates like snapper ceviche and country ham and cheese beignets.

Jack of Cups Saloon

Inexpensive

Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042

jackofcupssaloon.net

Serving lunch, dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner and chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. Menu offerings rotate with the seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese. Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut broth-turned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling,

and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner said this of the restaurant’s Cashew Korma: “I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”

Jackrabbit Filly

CHINESE

Moderate

North Charleston. 1083 East Montague Ave. (843) 460-0037

jackrabbitfilly.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.)

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is

delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

Kultura

FILIPINO

Moderate

Downtown. 73 Spring St. kulturacharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Thurs.-Mon) and Karaoke Brunch (Sat., Sun.)

An homage to a Filipino grandmother’s home cooking, Kultura ties the fresh tastes of the Lowcountry to the Philippines with a focus on using as many local ingredients as possible. A must-try dish is the restaurant’s pancit made with rice noodles, local blue crab and vegetables in a calamansi sauce. Make sure you try the Halo Halo cocktail – an enticing blend of purple yam (ube), pineapple, sake and oat milk. Also of note: You know you’ll get good food because Kultura’s chef, Nikko Cagalanan, was one of five 2024 nominees for Best Emerging Chef by the James Beard Foundation.

Kwei Fei

CHINESE

Moderate

James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Set next door to Charleston Pour House, Kwei Fei is not subtle, from its chef to its

food and its Its menu offers a wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggie-based sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Having rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.

La Bonne Franquette

FRENCH

Moderate

West Ashley. 652 Saint Andrews Blvd. (843) 709-7962

labonnefranquettechs.com

Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Friday. Brunch, Saturday and Sunday. Dinner, Saturday.

This sunny and sometimes loud bistro is a

continued on page 32

great all-day addition to West Ashley. Stop off for a quick coffee and croissant during the week. Or a bistro lunch of quiche and a dressed mixed salad or a simple-but-satisfying French sandwich on crusty bread. At dinner, enjoy outstanding charcuterie and cheese before diving into scallops with butternut squash puree, French petit pots and cranberry gastrique or the classic Steak and Frites. Not on a solid diet? Check out the bar with its tasty libations and good wine list.

Laura

Moderate

Summerville. 101 N. Main St. (843) 738-6988 laurasummerville.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Lunch (Fri.-Sat.), Sunday Brunch

Nico Romo’s Summerville Italian restaurant, Laura (named after his grandmother), has something for the whole family. Plus, it fills a need for more fine-dining options in the ‘burbs around Charleston. Start with appetizers for the table, like focaccia or arancini, and then choose from Neapolitan pizzas such as the Blanca or the Pistachio. There are additional entrees, too, including veal Saltimbocca and scallops with corn risotto. Bonus: The covered outdoor patio is prepared for all weather conditions with fans and heaters.

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters

SEAFOOD

Moderate

Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500

leonsoystershop.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “Fry-Up” platter is an awesome choice of battered oysters, shrimp, catfish or clams that are delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good. Comfortable, delicious and reliable — perfect for your regular rotation of food joints.

Lewis Barbecue

BARBECUE

Moderate to expensive Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built by Lewis and his father. Once inside,

you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.

Lost Isle

AMERICAN

Moderate Johns Island. 3338 Maybank Hwy. lostislechs.com

Serving Dinner. Daily. Walking into this open-air concept feels a little like walking onto, well, a lost island. Quirky without trying too hard, this spot features chandeliers floating among the Spanish moss of live oak trees. Chef Josh Taylor, formerly of Root Note Food, has crafted a seasonally focused menu with frequently changing specials and dishes, such as whipped ricotta with smoked tomato, wood-fired oysters with chili butter and a smoked tomahawk pork chop. Yum.

Ma’am Saab

PAKISTANI

Moderate Charleston. 251 Meeting St. (843) 259-2660 MaamSaab.com

Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

If you’re looking for “flavorland,” you should check out this elegant but nonwhite-tablecloth Pakistani restaurant that offers modern takes on time-tested dishes.

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba took Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food, first as a pop-up in 2019. The couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like lamb biryani or aloo gobi. You’ll also enjoy the rich, savory and spicy flavors of chicken tikka and butter chicken. And the fresh naan? It’s to die for. Don’t forget the restaurant’s Mount Pleasant roadhouse called Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen in Towne Center where you can get Pakistani street food such as samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and more.

Maya del Sol Kitchen

MEXICAN

Moderate

North Charleston. 1813 Reynolds Ave., Suite B (843) 225-2390

Raulsmayadelsol.com

Serving Lunch and Dinner (Tues.-Fri.), Saturday brunch.

Maya del Sol Kitchen is a good passion

project for chef and owner Raul Sanchez, and it clearly shows. Opened in 2021, Sanchez serves lunch, evening small bites and brunch where you can find Mexican standards like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor. But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef guisado (stewed beef) or puerco asado (roasted pork).

Sanchez offers special five-sourse chef’s table dinners regulary by reservation only.

Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for menu and chef’s table dinner updates.

Marbled & Fin

STEAKHOUSE

Very expensive

Downtown. 480 E Bay St. (843) 278-5488

marbledandfin.com

Dinner nightly, Weekend brunch

If you’ve been in the market for a new modern steakhouse — one that serves delicate, flavorful hamachi crudo alongside a big, bold bone-in tomahawk, look no further.The attention to detail at Neighborhood Dining Group’s latest begins the moment you step into Marbled & Fin — the vaulted ceilings and chic interior belie the building’s history as a dry cleaners. Reservations are recommended for the dining room at this buzzy new spot, but guests are always welcome to belly up to the

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Rūta Smith file photo

Maya del Sol Kitchen serves up Mexican standards, like shrimp ceviche, on a rotating menu

MIDDLETON MADE KNIVES

25-seat bar, first-come, first-served. The details continue to impress throughout the meal, from welcome cocktails to an evening-ending sweet bite. Be sure to try the broiled oysters and bone marrow appetizer. Made with herb bread crumbs, charred lemon and chimichurri, it’s the perfect mix of land and sea.

The Obstinate Daughter

SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate

Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020 theobstinatedaughter.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes.

The Ordinary

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060

eattheordinary.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz.The Ordinary was the first of its kind. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.

Philosophia

GREEK

Moderate to expensive Mount Pleasant. 909 Houston Northcutt Blvd. (854) 227-5738

philosophiamountpleasant.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This East Cooper restaurant blends the joy of dining with friendship and a menu that rocks Greek cuisine. “Amazingly good Greek food,” one satisfied gourmand said. Favorites include starters of pesto hummus and Greek pimento cheese and main dishes of pastitsio, whole branzino and stuffed leg of lamb. A delightful experience.

Pink Bellies

VIETNAMESE

Moderate to Expensive Downtown. 595 King St., Suite 1. (843) 6403132

eatpinkbellies.com

Serving lunch, dinner, Thursday through Sunday

From humble beginnings as a food truck serving hungry College of Charleston students to a stall in former food hall Workshop, Pink Bellies has morphed into a bustling hot Vietnamese spot in midtown. Cult-followers enjoy Thai Phi’s spicy, decadent garlic noodles and other Vietnamese fare in a moody, yet vibrant dining room that brings a modern vibe to King Street. Other fan favorites include the spicy lamb dumplings and pho mai burger. Sample the cocktail menu’s Tres Coop Riff, a tequilabased cocktail with an orange creamsicle flavor that is smoked and topped with cinnamon chips for a s’mores flavor.

Post House Restaurant

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com

Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects (the restaurant was purchased by Indigo Road Hospitality Group in March 2025). You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

R Kitchen

CHEF’S TABLE

Expensive

Downtown, 212 Rutledge Ave. West Ashley, 1337 Ashley River Road. (843) 789-0725

rutledgekitchen.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

R Kitchen brings diners an exciting new experience every night. At both locations, enjoy intimate dining settings while getting up-close and personal with a rotating line up of chefs creating that night’s fivecourse meal. R Kitchen is quick to remind guests that it’s a kitchen, not a restaurant. The menu is always a surprise — to both diners and chefs, who create the dishes each morning based on what ingredients the kitchen received that day. On a recent trip to the West Ashley location, a loaded potato soup, short rib dish and French toast with bacon made an appearance on the menu. Be sure to make a reservation in advance as these kitchens fill quickly.

Rancho Lewis

TEX-MEX

Moderate Charleston Neck, 1503 King St. (843) 996-4500

rancholewischs.com

Serving Lunch and Dinner (Mon.-Sun.)

Barbecue chef extraordinaire John Lewis adds Tex-Mex to his culinary mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos, the burger — made with brisket — is terrific. Don’t forget in-house classics like the Christmas burrito or fabulous enchiladas. If you’re looking for Mexican fresh, this is the place to visit. One diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas. Period.”

Renzo

PIZZA

Moderate

Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864

renzochs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.

Rodney Scott’s BBQ

BARBECUE

Inexpensive

Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535

rodneyscottsbbq.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pit-smoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Royal Tern

SEAFOOD

Expensive

Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Highway. (843) 718-3434

theroyaltern.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of woodfired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marble-topped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

SHIKI

SUSHI

Moderate Downtown. 334 East Bay St. (843) 720-8568

shikicharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more. Opened in 2001 by New York sushi chef Gon “David” Park, his son, James Park, has taken over the restaurant, prized for its highest-quality fish and sushi technique for making rolls, sashimi and nigiri. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese.

Rancho Lewis’s beef back ribs are slow cooked in a mesquite pit overnight, served with slaw, charro beans and a green chile baked potato

For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for highquality sushi, give this family-owned and operated restaurant a try.

Sorelle

ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown, 88 Broad St. (843) 974-1575 sorellecharleston.com

Serving dinner (Mon.-Sun.)

If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic southern Italian cuisine to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said

one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pasta-baked branzino for a dinner to die for. Note: While it’s hard to get a dinner reservation here, its attached store (mercado) is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. for a quick bite.

Southbound

Expensive

Downtown, 72 Cannon St. (843) 823-0212 southboundchs.com

Serving Dinner, (Mon.-Sun)

Live-fire cooking takes center stage at this new Cannon Street restaurant from the same folks behind Mount Pleasant’s Community Table and BarPizza, formerly Kiki & Rye. The elegant two-story dining room is located inside a historic

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Gatley Williams

Grand Opening

home, which features a large wood-fire grill on the first floor. The menu, which changes daily and is posted to Facebook and Instagram each day by 3 p.m., makes great use of the grill with items such as dry-aged steak tartare with smoked egg, grilled toast and miso butter, coal-roasted Spanish octopus and grilled bone marrow with fried oysters. Examples of heartier entrees include an Australian lamb chop, crispy Orvia duck and housemade cavatelli with braised rabbit sugo.

Stella’s

GREEK

Moderate

Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026

stellascharleston.com

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point? Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

Sushi-Wa

SUSHI

Expensive

Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension. (843) 735-8633

sushiwacharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for an intimate date night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or if you’re lucky by following on Instagram, you might be able to snag a last-minute spot.

The James American Grill

AMERICAN FARE

Moderate to expensive

James Island. 1939A Maybank Highway. (843) 278-1066

thejameschs.com

Serving Lunch (Wed.-Sun.) and Dinner (all week)

A relatively new location for fine dining on

James Island, The James American Grill blends the feel of a neighborhood joint with comfortable elegance. It offers lots of nice touches – sumptuous Parker House rolls, tasty lump crab cakes with flair and fresh fish that soothes and nourishes. If you want an extra special treat, start with the creamy, rich mushroom soup with a hint of sherry that is topped by flaky pastry. Also enjoy the cozy bar and its satisfying drinks, including a rockin’ martini.

Vern’s

NEW AMERICAN

Expensive

Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com

Serving dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), weekend brunch Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and walnut pesto, or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.

Wild Common

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Downtown. 103 Spring St. wildcommoncharleston.com

Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu weekly for a one-of-akind dinner. Some items on the menu may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.

Wild Olive

ITALIAN

Expensive

Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Highway (843) 737-4177 wildoliverestaurant.com

Serving Dinner (daily) Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for

Stella’s braised lamb shank offers a comforting, yet elevated, experience

exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite, but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty. A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate.

XO Brasserie

CHINESE

Expensive

Downtown. 1090 Morrison Drive. (843) 969-1896

xobchs.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Xo Brasserie serves updated Cantonese and Sichuan-influenced cuisine at 1090 Morrison Drive. Owner Herman Ng partnered with executive chef Michael Chanthavong to create a modern Chinese American menu, with dishes like vegetarian Ma Po Tofu, salt and pepper shrimp and crab rangoon. In addition to curating the menu’s flavors, Ng and his team carefully

created a buzzy space inside the new, multiuse building on Morrison Drive. Brasserie’s interior features clean lines, moody lighting, leafy plants and special touches, like a large custom wine rack. Some of the larger tables feature big lazy-Susans that play into Ng’s goal of family-style dining. “It’s how I grew up,” he said. “You order a bunch of different dishes, and you all get to try a bunch of stuff.”

The Restaurant at Zero George

Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900

zerogeorge.com

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, The Restaurant at Zero George’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up an innovative tasting menu , plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese. Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

Rūta Smith file photo

CHARLESTON’S BAR GUIDE

INTRODUCING THE

CP Hotlist

Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new By City Paper staff

This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on notable, relatively new hot restaurants that impress our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. Now on the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order):

The Archer (2024), Downtown. Marc and Liz Hudacsko, the couple behind popular downtown spot Berkeley’s, opened a buzzier, “more grown up” sister restaurant, The Archer, last summer. Featuring what’s described as “elevated fare” (think oven-roasted wreckfish, duck confit salad), The Archer is located at 601 Meeting St., near the base of the Ravenel bridge. The bar program is curated by Jimmy Chmielewski, previously of Proof and Estadio. Drinks include cocktails like the Ambiguous Bird, made with rum, coconut oolong Campari, pineapple and lime, and a nitro espresso martini on draft. Moderate. thearchercharleston.com. Dinner, Wednesday through Monday.

Cane Pazzo (2025), Hanahan. Chef-owner and Charleston native Mark Bolchoz, an alumnus of Peninsula Grill, The Grocery, Indaco and a former culinary director of Italian concepts for the Indigo Road Hospitality Group, opened Cane Pazzo in June along with his wife Ariana. The Hanahan restaurant’s name translates to “Mad Dog,” Bolchoz’s childhood nickname. It was given by his grandfather, a Hanahan entrepreneur for decades. Handmade pastas, wood-fired proteins and shareable plates highlight Lowountry seasonality; dishes like heirloom tomato toast with burrata, pickled sweet peppers, arugula and sherry vinaigrette shine alongside risotto with corn, confit peppers, red onion, Serrano and pancetta. A thoughtful cocktail list accompanies an exclusively Italian wine list, followed by desserts like tiramisu and affogato. Moderate. canepazzorestaurant. com. Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.

La Cave (2024), Downtown.

La Cave, an elevated sipping lounge and salon privé inspired by the south of France, opened on King Street last fall, just down the block from its sister restaurant, Félix Cocktails et Cuisine. La Cave is the Parisian-inspired cafe’s softer sister, with natural wood finishes and exposed stone walls designed by Landrum’s wife, Leslie. Diners can look forward to small plates like a petit crab roll with lump crab cake topped with jalapeño-leek aïoli and pickled red onions that is served on a sized-down sesame bun; raw bar offerings ranging from oysters to crudo to caviar service; and roasted prawns with coriander, piquillo pepper butter and grilled lemon. Order the Martini de Luxe, made with fromage washed vodka, saline and Lillet Blanc — and get a caviar crisp on the side. Moderate. lacavechs.com. Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.

Lillian’s Petite Market & Eatery (2024), Downtown. Owner Heather Greene, working with

chef Todd Garrigan, pastry chef Allison Brown and mixologist Ruth Wentenhall, has created a comfortable follower for the space formerly occupied by much-loved Harold’s Cabin. The restaurant, which is open from 7:15 a.m. every day until 10 p.m., showcases locally-sourced dishes and craft cocktails designed around a seasonal menu. The all-day menu features breakfast favorites and a great burger. Dinner is satisfying with everything from fried oyster stew to barbecue shrimp. An all-around winner. Moderate. lillianschs. com. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Merci (2025), Downtown.

Neighborhood bistro, Merci, from chef Michael Zentner and his wife Courtney, opened at 28 Pitt Street this March. The European-inspired restaurant features a small but mighty menu in a cozy, 1820’s Federal-style building, with a dining room that seats just under 30 diners. Merci’s current, carefully honed list of offerings features dishes like focaccia stracciatella with Benton’s ham and pistachio; spring pea salad with boucheron and green goddess dressing and striped bass with white bean fondue, fennel and olives. Expensive. merchichs.com. Dinner, Wednesday through Saturday.

Pelato (2025), Downtown.

This Brooklyn-inspired, garlic heavy, red sauce Italian restaurant opened in May in the former Butcher & Bee space at 1085 Morrison Drive. A seasonally changing, casual, shar-

able menu is available nightly in the main dining space, the bar and al fresco. Potato croquettes with mozzarella, garlic aioli and Parmigiano Reggiano and crispy cauliflower piccata with lemoncaper butter are starter choices along with mains like campanelle with shrimp limone and creamy lemon as well as a classic chicken parmigiana with tomato, basil, Parmigiano Reggiano and mozzarella. Sundays host a traditional Italian Sunday sauce, also known as Sunday gravy, dinner serving fusilli with tomato, ribs, braciola, sausage and meatballs. Moderate. www.pelatorestaurant.com. Dinner daily.

Volpe (2025), Downtown. Ken Vedrinski, chef of Isle of Palms restaurant Coda Del Pesce and former beloved, downtown Italian restaurant Trattoria Lucca, opened Volpe at 161 Rutledge Ave. in April. Communal dining is the name of the game here, and the menu changes daily and offers a fourcourse, family-style meal priced at $65 per person (a la carte items are also available). The family-style option includes four different antipastos, a pasta duo, a segunda course that consists of meat and fish followed by dessert. Recent dishes included farro with asparagus, mortadella and roasted peppers, pork Marsala, and a lime and Amaretti cheesecake. The wine list has about two dozen bottles and all white wine costs $44 with all reds being $48 more. Moderate. volpecharleston.com. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

Andrew Cebulka Roasted prawns at La Cave

Courtesy Pelato

Pelato wil get your evening started with dishes like their potato croquettes with mozzarella, garlic aioli and Parmigiano Reggiano

ESSAY

A SPACE FOR EVERYONE

Coffee and art rooted in community and culture

By Peter Washington III

Before I ever dreamed of opening a café, I grew up watching my father stand on picket lines and my mother serve sweet potato pie with quiet strength. Their stories, and the stories of the generations before them, shaped the way I see the world and the way I want to serve my community.

I carried these stories with me to the Baltimore/Washington, D.C. area where I lived for 15 years before returning home to Cainhoy. The pull home was stronger than nostalgia — it was purposeful. I returned to Charleston to be closer to my family, but also to create a space rooted in our history, community and culture.

I now proudly reside on the land that has been a sanctuary for my family for five generations. This summer, I’m opening the Washington Café, a hybrid space where coffee meets art. The café will be in Mount Pleasant, a town transformed by rapid development, displacing many longtime communities. We won’t just serve coffee, but we will carry forward my family’s legacy of community and resilience in this area I love. We will host events and showcase art that honors the people who have built this place. It’s a space to slow down, to create and to remember who we are.

My mother always said, “Manners will take you a long way in life.” She was right. Her sweet potato pie, which we’ll serve, symbolizes the strength and hospitality she showed as a mother, teacher and nurturer. Each slice carries the warmth she showed to everyone who walked through her door. We intend to share that spirit with our café patrons.

Coffee is at the heart of what we do. It offers comfort and sparks conversation, turning everyday moments into opportunities for connection and action. Coffee shops have long served as community hubs that bridge generations. My nieces and nephews are your future baristas. We’ll also serve food deeply rooted in the Black community: Charleston chewies, handmade breakfast biscuits and the sweet potato pie. These are flavors of tradition and comfort.

As a longtime art collector, I believe art is essential for telling stories that words alone cannot capture. The Washington Café will also serve as a gallery, displaying works from my personal collection alongside pieces from emerging and local artists. Each work will spark conversation about identity, struggle, joy and pride.

I come from a long line of people who built their lives and helped build Charleston. My grandfather was a cowboy on Daniel Island, guiding cattle and raising a family in a time when Black cowboys were overlooked. My great-grandmother, Victoria, was such a pillar of her

community that a road in Clements Ferry bears her name. I’m also a descendant of Philip Simmons, the world-renowned blacksmith whose ironwork reminds us of the artistry and strength that define this place. Their stories fuel my commitment to honoring the past while building the future.

My father, Peter Washington, was one of the Charleston Five longshoremen who fought for labor rights and dignity at the docks. His fight for justice left an imprint on me. The Washington Café will honor that resilience. Every aspect — from my father’s design to the curated art — reflects the intentionality and care I have for this community.

Gullah Geechee culture is the heartbeat of the

Lowcountry and it’s woven into the walls of the Washington Café. From the music in the air to the art on the walls and the daily conversations, the café will celebrate this rich, rhythmic and resilient legacy. This space is for everyone: students looking for a quiet place to study, artists in search of inspiration, elders sharing wisdom and neighbors building connections. I came home to create a place of belonging, and the Washington Café is my way of giving back to the city that raised me. With every cup, I’ll honor the heritage that shaped and serve the place that raised me.

Editor’s note: The Washington Café is expected to open later this summer at 1111 McKnight Road in Mount Pleasant.

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