Charitable Traveller Magazine - June/July 2021 - Issue 5

ISSUE 5 June/July 2021

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

Slowly but surely

Idyllic islands • Slow travel ideas • Eco-tourism in Cambodia • Hunger & food waste explored

CHARITABLE TRAVEL FUND supporting tourism communities

OUR SUPPORT STARTS WHEN TOURISM STOPS

What we do...

The CHARITABLE TRAVEL FUND works to provide tangible grant aid for communities in worldwide travel destinations that depend on tourism income but have little support when that income is threatened or extinguished by events beyond expectation or control.

Covid-19 has had devastating consequences on the travel industry, with many who work in the industry experiencing the pandemic without any access to government financial support.

This impacts all of the industry, globally.

Make a difference...

DONATE at www.justgiving.com/ charitabletravelfund PLEDGE TO FUNDRAISE for the Charitable Travel Fund Walk, run, bake, dress up, dance… share your fundraising ideas with us VOLUNTEER and help us grow awareness for the cause

WANT TO HELP? CONTACT US charitabletravel.org / help@charitabletravel.org justgiving.com/charitabletravelfund / 020 3092 2428

CHARITY NUMBER: 1189521

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Laura Gelder

It’s a tentative start but international travel has begun and I can’t help but be excited!

Admittedly, I wasn’t one of the keen beans waiting at the airport check-in at 6am on May 17; after all, I was far too busy putting together this latest issue of Charitable Traveller!

And what an issue it is – our biggest yet! As ever, we have strived to offer you a balance of unadulterated travel inspiration with some more practical advice on how to travel in this post-covid world. In the spirit of the former, turn to page 76 for the full low down on what the government’s traffic light system for travel actually means, and to page 72 for our luxury expert Lizzi Trimble’s pick of ten top resorts in green-lit Portugal, Madeira and the Azores.

If you’re here for pure escapism, keep turning the pages to read about jungle adventures in Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains, the myth and magic of ancient and modern Egypt on a Nile River cruise and the spectacular diversity of Panama, amongst other amazing places.

I was very excited to meet and interview the novelist James Bowen for this issue, albeit via Zoom. He’s a man who shares my love of ginger cats and captured the hearts of the nation with

Read about jungle adventures in Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains, the myth and magic of ancient and modern Egypt on a Nile River cruise and the spectacular diversity of Panama his tale of overcoming addiction, helped by his furry friend. Sadly, Bob passed away last year, but it was great to hear that James is still doing well and has exciting plans to help charities tackling two causes close to his heart – homelessness and animal welfare.

That’s not all we have on the charity side. This issue we speak to more inspiring people: a counsellor from Chrysalis, a charity providing emotional support to the trans community; an open-water swimmer who swam every lake in the Lake District to raise money for Just a Drop; and a man using virtual car racing to fundraise.

I hope you enjoy this issue and that you’ll be as inspired as I am, both by the courage and kindness of people and the big wide world out there which is waiting to welcome us back.

©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2021. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel • Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: Credit - pexels.com/Jaime Reimer.

CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Rosie Buddell & Ally Ware; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Laura Gelder; MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Louisa Horton (louisacreative@outlook.com)

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Welcome to the 5th edition of Charitable Traveller. I really hope it ignites your desire to travel again and that the traffic light system lights the way to your dream destination. Visit the UK Government’s website for the latest advice but you can check on the charitable.travel website and consult our team too.

Whilst we yearn to escape our lock-down, let us not forget the people who absolutely depend on tourism. During the pandemic, places across the world have been without the tourism income that keeps mouths fed, the lights on and the bills paid. There have been countless lay-offs in the tourism industry globally and in many places there is no safety net and little or no chance of vaccination.

But you can help! Book your next holiday as soon as it is safe to do so and consider carefully the importance of the place you choose. The developing world doesn’t need hand-outs, it needs visitors enjoying a fabulous holiday, booking hotels and tours, dining in restaurants, enjoying the attractions and bringing in money to provide jobs, pay salaries and bring back stability. Thank you.

Melissa Tilling .

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Get the picture Armchair Travel: Books, films, etc.

Islands: A whirlwind virtual tour of the world’s most amazing islands.

A day in the life of... a counsellor for the charity Chrysalis Four charities... helping to fund holidays for those in need Talking about... animals and homelessness with James Bowen Why I donated... to Just a Drop Cambodia: Eco-tourism in the jungle and heroic rats Four British animals... and how to help them 48 hours in... Surrey, UK Postcard from: Argentina

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waste explained by Fareshare 48 Get to know: Grenada 50 Slow travel: Four ways to do it 54 Q&A with: Chequered Flag Motorsport 56 Panama: Urban and green jungles;

desert islands & coffee highlands 60 Five British beaches... you must see 61 Postcard from: Hay-on-Wye 62 Opinion: All about ‘glocal’ tourism 64 Get to know: Alberta 66 Nile cruise: Ancient Egyptian

treasures on a river cruise 72 Top ten... Portuguese luxury resorts 75 Global good news: The traffic light

system for travel explained

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When the living is easy

Summer has officially arrived.

Whether you’re planning a holiday abroad or sticking to the British Isles, it’s time to put woolly hats and scarves away and get out the flip-flops and shorts – though if it’s the latter you might want to keep a rain mac in your suitcase! Pictured here is the spectacular Portuguese Algarve, a coast of craggy cliffs and soft sand. See more options for a beach getaway here: charitable.travel/beachgetaways

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The world’s first international dark sky city.

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W U PAT K I N AT I O N A L M O N U M E N T www.charitable.travel/flagstaff STAY, PLAY, DISTANCE &

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Coconino National Forest San Francisco Peaks Sunset Crater National Monum Wupatki National Monument Walnut Canyon National Monu Oak Creek Canyon

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Town and country

Luke Ellis Craven/Unsplash

We can find out the fastest way to drive between almost anywhere in the UK at the touch of a button, but until recently there was nothing that showed us how to avoid the roads and walk. Slow Ways is a community interest company that is working to create a national network of walking routes between all our towns and cities. It’s a collaborative effort, so sign up and you can get access to routes, suggest your own and verify or review other people’s.

There are currently 100,000km of slow ways being checked. slowways.org

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Get the picture

Make a difference

Shubhangee Vyas/Unsplash

India is currently suffering from a deadly second wave of Covid-19.

Coronavirus cases have skyrocketed and had a crushing effect on the country’s health system, leading to oxygen shortages which threaten to endanger more lives. The social and economic impact of the pandemic will continue to be felt in India, and across the world, for the foreseeable future. Remember that if you book your holiday with Charitable Travel your holiday can make a difference to global communities in need. Find a charity here: charitable.travel/greatcauses

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Breaking Boundaries: the Science of Our Planet Netflix, June

This is a new Netflix documentary with David Attenborough and Swedish professor Johan Rockström, a global sustainability expert who appeared in the award-winning climate change movie Before The Flood. The featurelength programme will see the pair investigate how humanity has pushed Earth to the brink of collapse, examining issues like biodiversity and climate change, as well as the solutions we need to secure the future of humanity.

TV

Nomadland Out now in cinemas

If you haven’t caught it already, this Oscar-winning film explores a 21st century phenomenon in America, modern-day nomads. These are the 60-plus people who were hard hit by the financial crash and can’t afford to retire, but can’t afford to work and maintain a home, and have instead begun roaming the country in camper vans looking for work. The film follows Fern (played by Frances McDormand) who packs her van and hits the road for a life outside of conventional society and an exploration of the vast landscapes of the stunning American West.

Film

ARMCHAIR

travel

A new Attenborough documentary, a film love letter to American landscapes and two very different but brilliantly British books

I belong here

By Anita Sethi

Book

Subtitled, ‘a journey along the backbone of Britain’, this is Sethi’s story of finding solace in nature after being the victim of a traumatic racial attack while she was journeying through Northern England. Although a racist had told her to leave, she felt drawn to further explore the area she regards as home. Anita experienced anxiety and a sense of claustrophobia which made the wide open spaces of the Pennines call to her and she was determined not to let the experience stop her travelling freely. This is an account of reclamation and an exploration of the natural landscapes of the North, exploring identity, nature, place and belonging.

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Rubbish pet portraits

By Hercule Van Wolfwinkle

Phil Heckels, from Worthing in West Sussex, began working under the alias Hercule Van Wolfwinkle in 2020. He drew his dog and put it on Facebook, offering paid-for commissions as a joke, but requests flooded in. Heckels decided to use it as a way of raising money for his local homeless shelter, with a target of £299, but he didn’t expect it to go viral. The book is a collection of his silliest portraits with the scathing and hilarious customer reviews (self-written). To date, he’s raised over £80,000.

Book

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Islands

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hat is it about islands that is so captivating to the collective imagination? Certainly, the idea of being cut off from the ‘real word’ is appealing in modern times. But our fascination goes further back; islands have been romanticised in art and literature for centuries.

No wonder adults dream of island escapes, there are dozens of children’s books in which an island is as important as the protagonists – from the idyllic tropical castaway depicted in The Swiss Family Robinson to the savagery of isolation in Lord of the Flies, with a whole host of adventurous outposts in between.

Radio Four’s Desert Island Discs programme asks its famous guests to choose eight records, a book and one luxury which they would take if they were to be marooned and it’s a question that is endlessly fascinating for listeners because it’s been running since 1942.

Writer Gavin Francis explores the collective fascination with islands in his book, Island Dreams, mapping an obsession. He uncovers many reasons to hanker after island life, revealing them as catalysts for self-reflection and transformation; inspiration and awe; isolation and peace.

Leaving the romantic notions of islands aside, there is one very strong reason to recommend them for a holiday right now. Thanks to their natural geographic isolation, many islands and island nations have fared well in the pandemic, with low infection rates and successful track records of handling what cases do arrive on their shores.

The government’s green list demonstrates this by

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Islands

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of an island escape? will feature heavily on reen list. Join us for a some of world’s best

including several, ranging from the isolated rock of St. Helena to easier-to-reach archipelagos like the Azores (see page 76).

It’s likely that more islands will follow as the list is revised so, in anticipation of this, we wanted to offer some snap-shot inspiration for your next island escape. Prepare to whizz around the world and visit some incredible islands...

AFRICA

Islands aren’t what spring to mind when you think of Africa but dotted all around the continent there are some of the world’s most alluring and culturally diverse. Kenya’s Lamu Island has gorgeous beaches and sapphire seas, as well as being a centre of Swahili and Islamic culture for over 700 years.

There is geographic and biodiversity too. Rising from the Atlantic, 300 miles west of Senegal, Cape Verde is an island chain with a collection of landscapes that don’t seem to belong together – wildflower covered mountains and ashen volcanic plateaus within and dreamy beaches of many shades all around.

Beside Egypt and Eritrea in the east are Red Sea islands marking underwater marine parks of dazzling biodiversity.

CLASSICS: Floating off the Sahara are the politically Spanish Canary Islands, mixing Saharan sand dunes with pine forests, lava fields and cacti-sprinkled plains. Madagascar is an ex-French colony home to rare and wonderful creatures seen nowhere else on earth – like the lemur. Zanzibar, off the coast of Tanzania, is where Africa meets Arabia, with idyllic beaches, fields of rice and cloves and the ancient trading port of Stone Town.

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Islands

ash Patrick Mueller/Unspl

ZANZIBAR, TANZANIA

HIDDEN GEMS: Atlantic Principe is a lush island of crumbling old cocoa plantations and deserted banana-coloured beaches. Rubondo Island on Lake Victoria in Tanzania is home to chimpanzees, forest elephants, giraffe and rare antelope.

Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago has four islands blessed by pale sand beaches, wild orange and cashew trees and a marine park home to dugongs.

ASIA

Indonesia and the Philippines are home to approximately 17,000 and 7,000 islands respectively, ranging from Java, which is the world’s most populous, to tiny Bohol which is home to the world’s smallest primate, the goggle-eyed tarsier. Islands like Langkawi in Malaysia and Koh Samui in Thailand are home to numerous luxury resorts, while the stunning

WE ARE PROUD TO SUPPORT PRIDE MONTH 2021

limestone outcrops and lagoons of Indonesia’s Raja Ampat Islands have just basic homestays and a few dive resorts. But it’s the variety of Asia’s natural resources which stands out. Many of its islands are in the coral triangle, an epicentre for biodiversity.

CLASSICS: Shared between Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei, Borneo is one of the most biodiverse islands on the planet, its thick forest and rivers hide orangutans, pygmy elephants, clouded leopards and saltwater crocodiles. Hedonistic and hippy Koh Pha Ngan in the Gulf of Thailand is famous for its full moon parties and silky beaches. Bali is a frangipani-fragranced paradise of golden and black sands, temples and terraced rice paddies.

HIDDEN GEMS: The Philippines’ Siquijor Island is famous for its mountain-dwelling healers as well as its beautiful white-sand beaches, caves and

JUNE 2021 IS PRIDE MONTH! Celebrate with us and consider donating to incredible causes such as the LGBT+ Foundation, who deliver advice, support and information to the LGBT+ community, or Chrysalis, who support trans, non-binary and questioning people as well as their families and close friends.

Find out more at charitable.travel/lgbt

Islands

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Borneo is one of the most biodiverse islands on the planet, its thick forest and rivers hide orangutans, pygmy elephants, clouded leopards and saltwater crocodile waterfalls. Japan’s Taketomi Island is culturally significant for its traditional houses with red tiled roofs and its roads of crushed coral are plied by buffalo carts. Havelock in India’s Andaman Islands boasts platinum beaches and pristine mangroves, forest and coral reefs.

of the year – that’s not all there is to impress. You can windsurf in Barbados, go jungle trekking in Puerto Rico, snorkel with turtles in the British Virgin Islands or explore crumbling colonial plazas in the Dominican Republic.

CLASSICS: Saint Lucia’s Pitons, its pointed peaks smothered in greenery, are its The Caribbean is practically an crowning glory. The biggest island adjective for tropical paradise. Most in the Caribbean, Cuba invented the travellers go for the beaches and mojito and its time capsule capital renowned resorts but return for the Havana is one of the world’s most laid-back culture. You can see Dutch atmospheric. Barbados has blissful architecture in Aruba, Spanish beaches, a UNESCO-rated capital casas in Cuba, French restaurants and one of the most legendary in Martinique and British red phone Friday night parties in the world, at boxes in Grenada. The region is Oistins Fish Fry. the home of reggae music, while HIDDEN GEMS: Dominica is many islands have their own annual known as the nature island carnival and all have a hotspot for thanks to its jungle-clad mountains its most popular pastime – ‘liming’, with bubbling hot pools. Montserrat which simply means hanging was famously devastated by a out with your mates. volcanic eruption in the 90s While the beaches but is a nature lover’s are legendary – paradise with a Antigua alone has surprising slice of Irish one for every day culture. Little The World Land Trust protects

THE CARIBBEAN

Protect our islands

D, PHILIPPINES

Cayman has a population of less than 200 and its capital is called Blossom Village, where you go to get away from it all.

EUROPE

The islands of Europe are certainly diverse, ranging from the arctic wilds of Svalbard, stalked by polar bears, to sun-scorched Mediterranean isles like Malta.

Sweden, Norway and Finland (in that order) can claim the largest share of islands on the planet, yet how many can you name? Gotland is one. The Swedish island has pretty sandy beaches, sculptural sea stacks and the remarkably preserved Medieval Viking town of Visby.

CLASSICS: Ibiza has it all – white-washed towns of tapas bars, legendary nightlife and quiet beaches and hilltop villas where

SANTORINI, GREECE

NextVoyage/Pixabay

Omar Clark/Unsplash

and sustainably manages important eco-systems around the world, including islands.

Best of all, it supports those who live there. worldlandtrust.org

SIARGAO ISLAN

SAINT LUCIA

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Islands

you can recover. Santorini’s sheer cliffs topped with blue-domed villas marooned in the deep blue Aegean are quite simply iconic. Croatia’s Hvar boasts impossibly clear sea lapping its pebble beaches, while inland are lavender fields and terracotta-tiled villages.

HIDDEN GEMS: Visiting Saaremaa in Estonia is like stepping back in time, its quaint little villages are swaddled in

EASTER ISLAND

fragrant forests of pine, spruce and juniper. Around ten people live year-round on Faroese island Mykines, protected by its turf-roofed houses and accompanied by flocks of puffins who nest on its dizzying cliffs. The smoking volcanic mount of Stromboli off the coast of Sicily inspired J.R.R. Tolkein’s Mordor and its ashen slopes contrast with white villas draped in bougainvillea.

LATIN AMERICA

This diverse region stretches between hot and cold extremities.

Down south, the British territory

and penguin paradise of the Falkland Islands will appeal as much to history buffs as to nature enthusiasts. At the hotter end of the scale, the islands of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez are legendary amongst divers, with Jacques Cousteau famously calling it ‘the world’s aquarium’. It’s also got some of the most remote but sought after islands in the world – Ecuador’s Galapagos, famous for their unique species ,and Chile’s barren Easter Island, which has a mystical allure thanks to its monumental and enigmatic statues.

Around ten people live on Faroese island

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Mykines, protected by its turf-roofed houses and accompanied by flocks of puffins who nest on its dizzying cliffs

Did you know?

Without any new treatments and preventions, one in three people born in the UK this year will develop dementia in their lifetime.

But you can help!

When booking your next dream getaway, please consider choosing Alzheimer’s Research UK at the checkout and help fund vital dementia research.

Alzheimer’s Research UK is the leading dementia research charity dedicated to making life-changing breakthroughs in diagnosis, prevention, treatment and cure.

Visit Charitable Travel’s website to find out more: https://charitable.travel/alzheimers-research-uk/

Registered charity numbers - 1077089 & SCO42474

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CLASSICS: Nicaragua’s Corn Islands are famous for Creole culture, log book-ticking diving and pristine beaches; Ambergris Caye is Belize’s biggest island, where you can snorkel the world’s secondlargest barrier reef. Brazil’s Ilha Grande is a popular getaway for Rio de Janeiro natives, a car-free zone of forest and stunning beaches.

HIDDEN GEMS: Chile’s Chiloe archipelago is famous for its colourful wooden houses on stilts and lush green forests. Omotepe is a twin-volcano island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, green and unspoilt with ancient petroglyphs to see.

Colombia’s rocky Malpelo Island is loved by divers for the proliferation of sharks that patrol its depths.

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THE MIDDLE EAST & INDIAN OCEAN

While Dubai is famous for its artificial islands, home to mega resorts, there are also natural islands around the Arabian peninsula. Abu Dhabi’s Sir Bani Yas is home to Arabia’s largest nature reserve and flocks of flamingos.

The islands of the Indian Ocean were barely known by British travellers 5o years ago but have since become synonymous with barefoot luxury thanks to a proliferation of five-star resorts, most notably in the barely-there desert isles of the Maldives CLASSICS: The author Mark Twain said that heaven was copied from Mauritius, a vertiginous isle bursting with beaches and botanical delights and mixing French, Indian, African and Arabic culture. Almost every resort in the Maldives is its own private island ringed by pristine white sand and swaying palms. Praslin is the Seychelles’ most photographed island, thanks to its silken sand beaches backed by granite boulders and a forest home to rare bottomshaped coconuts.

HIDDEN GEMS: Reunion is Mauritius’ drama queen sister, a black

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rock ringed by beautiful beaches and an interior of emerald forests, waving sugar cane and a rumbling volcano. Socotra is an almost mythical island belonging to Yemen, famed for its surreal looking dragon blood trees, canyons and giant sand dunes. Oman’s Dimaniyat Islands Nature Reserve protects a large number of sea turtles and rare birds.

NORTH AMERICA

Frozen Alaska and tropical Hawaii couldn’t be more different but they have an abundance of islands in common. Alaska’s Kodiak Island is home to as many as 3,000 of the largest grizzly bears in the world while Hawaii’s Maui is pounded by the biggest waves on the planet and inland its diverse interior ranges from lush bamboo forests to the

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Julius Silver/Pixabay

Islands

Richard Mcall/ Pixabay

TAHITI

Mars-like Haleakalā National Park.

Canada has countless islands.

They range from Vancouver on the Pacific, where totem poles peek out from moss-smothered forests, to Prince Edward Island on the Atlantic, where red cliffs and white sand beaches surround a bucolic farmland interior, the setting for the Anne of Green Gables books.

CLASSICS: Florida’s Sanibel is visited for its dazzling shellstrewn beaches nosed by dolphins.

Sitting off San Francisco, Alcatraz or ‘The Rock’ was home to a notorious penitentiary that housed prisoners including Al Capone. Nantucket Island in Massachusetts is loved for its pretty lighthouses, vineyards, beaches and clapboard houses.

HIDDEN GEMS: Jekyll Island in Georgia has bone-white beaches, atmospheric

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forests of live oaks dripping in Spanish moss and a grand hotel which was once the world’s most exclusive club. Manitoulin Island, the largest freshwater island in the world, is located in Lake Huron, Ontario and is rich in native culture.

California’s five Channel Islands are a national park famous for whale watching and dramatic, vista-filled clifftop hikes.

THE PACIFIC

Most of the islands in the Pacific are barely specks on the map, but zoom in and you’ll find that these scattered pearls over the world’s largest ocean each have their own unique personality. In Fiji you’ll find Hindu temples and curry houses, while the French heavily influence Tahiti’s gastronomic delights.

Tonga is a proud kingdom where Christian churches abound, where as New Guinea is a patchwork of tribal lands, many of which are farremoved from the modern world.

What all these far-flung islands all have in common is mesmerisingly beautiful scenery above and below the water.

CLASSICS: French Polynesia’s five island groups range from the fecund mountains of Tahiti to the flat castaway atolls and lagoons of the Tuamoto islands.

Fiji’s unhurried culture matches perfectly with its exquisite desert islands and sultry jungles. The Cook Islands’ Aitutaki is one of the world’s most sublime lagoons, lined with tiny deserted islands, or motus.

HIDDEN GEMS: New Caledonia is a sophisticated French enclave where desert islands have pine trees and cowboys work an outback-style landscape of red earth. The volcanic islands of Vanuatu are where a visiting New Zealander got the idea for bungee jumping from the locals, who leap from jungle platforms with tree roots tied to their ankles. Samoa was birthed by a series of volcanic explosions which created fertile jungles and intriguing features, like the To Sua Ocean Trench, a deep natural swimming pool surrounded by tangled jungle.

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Helen Downs is a counsellor working for Chrysalis, a charity supporting transgender, non-binary and questioning people and their friends and family When I was growing up in the 1980s my best friend began to question their gender. At the time this wasn’t something that was talked about, but I helped to support them and we learnt as we went through the process together. My friend is now living very happily as a married man and I work for the charity that helped him, Chrysalis.

I work six hours a week, meeting clients for one-to-one counselling sessions.

Chrysalis don’t impose a time-scale so we work with each client for as long as they need us. The first session is often the first time that a person has disclosed their feelings and that’s an immense moment.

Each session...

... is different. I support people through a process, helping them to get to a point where they can live as their authentic self. We spend a lot of time exploring the hurdles and external pressures that stand in the way of that.

The biggest fear for most people is the collateral damage of their transition. Many fear losing relationships. Some people believe they will have to sever ties with their old life. We work towards allaying fears and identifying the qualities they can transfer into their new life. I had one client who asked if they would be able to continue their career. They did stay in their job and the acceptance and support they got from colleagues was amazing.

I feel proud to have built a relationship where someone feels comfortable enough to share such personal feelings.

We go through highs and lows but when you stop to acknowledge how far someone has progressed, when you see someone blossom and expand into themself, it’s very humbling. When someone is able to live as their authentic self their life is so much more fulfilling and it radiates out of them.

The hardest thing...

Chrysalis’ mission is to create a world where trans and nonbinery people are free to live as their authentic selves. They provide a safe space, support groups and experienced counsellors. chrysalisgim.org.uk

The best thing...

… is being part of someone’s journey, it’s an honour and a privilege.

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Always authentic

… is working through painful history. We could have a client in their 70s who has had to hide their authentic self for years. It’s about unpicking that history, the shame they may have had forced on them, the fear of retribution they may have felt. Some may have endured horrific aversion therapy. You have to go through that before you can start to rebuild confidence and a sense of self.

I have learnt...

… so much from my clients. They have been so gracious and considerate of me and we learn together. Working at Chrysalis has made me ask myself about what it is to be your authentic self – this question applies to everyone. It’s given me greater awareness of society’s expectations and how much further we have to go. But I’ve learnt that anyone can be an ally. The important thing is to be there, to listen, to give someone the space to explore feelings. Don’t be fearful of using the wrong language, you can learn as you go.

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Help

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four ways to fund holidays FOR THOSE IN NEED Everyone is ‘desperate’ for a holiday but for some it’s not just a fun change of scene, it’s a lifeline.

Use your holiday to offer those in need one too through these great charities DEMENTIA ADVENTURE After being diagnosed with dementia people are at risk of being indoors too much, resulting in an unnecessary further decline in their physical, emotional and social well-being. Exercise, fresh air and stimulation can help people retain their skills and interests for longer and improve wellbeing and resilience.

Dementia Adventure provides a range of services – all with nature in mind – including holidays, short breaks and outings for dementia sufferers and their carers. Thanks to the support of trained staff and volunteers, both parties benefit hugely. dementiaadventure.co.uk

Leo Rivas/Unsplash

GO BEYOND This charity offers breaks for children and young people who have been bereaved, abused or bullied, who are living in poverty or are caring for loved ones. Its holidays are a chance for them to escape their worries in the countryside and are packed with activities intended to encourage self-belief and inspire adventure, from splashing through rivers in wellies to braving a rockclimbing wall. With expert staff and committed volunteers on-hand, the aim is for each child to go home knowing they can achieve more than they ever thought possible. gobeyond.org.uk

REVITALISE Focusing on disabled people in need of a holiday, Revitalise offers essential respite breaks to boost wellbeing, rejuvenate relationships and bring disabled people and carers closer together. Its revitalising holidays are filled with entertainment and new experiences backed up by 24-hour nurse-led care and full accessibility.

Despite the fact that two in three people in the UK are affected by disability by the time they are 85, finding an accessible break is not easy. Revitalise breaks down obstacles by creating holidays at its three centres across the UK in Essex, Southport and Southampton. revitalise.org.uk

FAMILY HOLIDAY ASSOCIATION Exploring somewhere new with the ones you love is a powerful tonic yet so many families are unable to experience this, whether that’s because of a lack of funds, a severe illness or disability, or being trapped in a cycle of domestic abuse. For over 45 years the Family Holiday Association has been offering those in need with short breaks and day outs, relieving stress and helping to create cherished memories. The majority of the families the charity helps have never had a family holiday but its research shows that the benefits last long after a family returns. familyholidayassociation.org.uk

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wo-plus hours by car from New York City and an hour from Philadelphia, Atlantic City (AC) on Absecon Island was established in 1854 and is an American seaside playground for the ages. My introduction to AC was sensational, seeing the Rolling Stones play historic Boardwalk Hall in 1989, and it's been pure satisfaction ever since.

Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Atlantic City is one of six casino-resorts lining the ocean-facing Boardwalk.

The signature rock memorabilia inside includes the menu from the original 1971 Hard Rock Café in London; Elvis Presley’s Rolls Royce; and tour uniforms from the Beatles, who played Boardwalk Hall in 1964.

Las Vegas-based titan Caesars Entertainment operates a trio of big resorts, while MGM International’s luxurious Borgata is one of three properties in the bayside Marina District.

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AC is a safe bet for foodies, offering up Gordon Ramsay and other swish celebrity outposts as well as historic eateries like Dock’s Oyster House (1897) and Prohibition-era Knife and Fork Inn (1912). Appetite boosters include strolling AC’s inviting beaches, swimming in the Atlantic or cycling the iconic five-mile Boardwalk.

Scenic outings include ocean cruises, fishing charters, helicopter tours, and rides in eco-friendly updates of AC’s legendary 1915 Jitney shuttles. Featuring 40 temperature-controlled gondolas, the 227-foot-tall ferris wheel is among the rides at the fabled Steel Pier amusement park.

Other lures include golf; outlet and boutique shopping; luxury spas, nightlife, art galleries, and beach concerts. Jim Whelan Boardwalk Hall, which opened in 1929 as America’s first convention venue, houses a 33,000-piece pipe organ – the largest ever built.

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You only need to head ‘downbeach’ from AC to Margate City to see Lucy the Elephant. Built in 1881 to promote local tourism and real estate, this lovingly restored six-storey pachyderm is America’s oldest roadside attraction.

AC inspired the American version of Monopoly and the city's 'Orange Loop' is where you can find the three reallife orange streets from the U.S. board game. This is a dynamically evolving neighborhood of restaurants, bars, live music, coffee, yoga and more on the blocks just behind the Boardwalk.

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Little Water Distillery is the city's first legal craft distillery - started by two brothers, and serves small-batch spirits including whiskey, rum, vodka, and gin.

First lit in 1857, Absecon Lighthouse is New Jersey’s tallest lighthouse. Climb the 227-step landmark for panoramic AC skyline views.

Anchoring Absecon Island on the lower-third of the 130-mile Jersey Shore, AC’s proximity to other storied coastal resorts and inland attractions also provides for rewarding day or overnight trips.

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Around 80 miles to the north, Asbury Park is another destination for rock pilgrims.

Immortalized in Bruce Springsteen’s 1973 debut album Greetings From Asbury Park, this resurgent Victorian-era beach resort is known worldwide for The Stone Pony, the 1974 music temple where ‘The Boss’ along with Jon Bon Jovi and other area legends got their chops down. Lined with historic venues, including the 1,600seat Paramount Theater, the Boardwalk was featured in the hit TV series The Sopranos. The boutique Asbury Hotel features a popular rooftop bar.

Just to the south is Long Beach Island, or LBI. Attractions in this causeway-accessible 21-mile barrier island and busy summer colony include panoramic views from Barnegat Lighthouse at the island’s northernmost tip.

Back on the mainland, Tuckerton Seaport & Baymen’s Museum is a maritime heritage village that celebrates the people, folklore, and history of the Jersey Shore. The 40-acre site includes 17 boardwalk-connected recreated buildings surrounded by maritime forest and a wetlands nature trail.

Bordering Atlantic County to the west, bucolic Cumberland County is for leisurely country drives and encounters with the past. Settled

in 1686, Bridgeton is home to New Jersey’s largest historic district, encompassing more than 2,000 buildings. With its main Ye Greate Street laid out in 1684, time capsule Greenwich Township was one of America’s first ports-ofentry under British rule. Heritage venues include the Gibbon House, a replica of a London townhouse.

Surrounded by expansive farmland, the nearby Delaware

Bay coastline was once a hotbed of oystering and caviar. Head to Hancock Harbor Marina to eat at the seasonal Bait Box restaurant or have a drink at the outdoor Liquid Therapy bar. There’s also a chance to see a fading Futuro House. Created by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen in the late 60s, fewer than 100 of these UFO-shaped pre-fab structures dot the globe.

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Ten miles inland from AC, in Galloway, the 1914 Seaview, A Dolce Hotel is a storied base for exploring the diverse attractions within 30 miles of AC. Set on 670-acres, the resort’s hosting history includes the 1942 PGA Tournament; Grace Kelly’s 16th birthday party; and the Rolling Stones, who camped there for their 1989 AC show. The distant AC skyline backdrops two bayside championship golf courses.

Once a stop for stagecoaches on the King’s Highway, nearby Revolutionary War-era

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Smithville Village features buildings, 80-plus shops a Historic Smithville Inn. Twenty miles northwest, originated in 1766 as a Rev works before converting to Nestled in Wharton State campus features some 33 structures including a ma worker’s cottages.

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An hour south of AC, The Wildwoods has claim as the cradle, if not the birthplace, of rock and roll.

The post-WW2 rise of this collective of coastal communities on Five Mile Island included a raucous new sound from bands like The Treniers (who sang Everything’s wild in Wildwood and Wildwood by the Sea) and Bill Haley & His Comets, who first performed Rock Around the Clock – rock’s first record – here in 1954.

Featuring expansive white-sand beaches and a 38-block Boardwalk, the Wildwoods’ midcentury emergence as a holiday destination also produced an architectural revolution in the form of ‘Doo Wop’ motels. Featuring eye-catching design, neon signs, and swimming pools, some 50 still-operating properties, preserved as the Wildwoods Shore Resort Historic District, include the Caribbean Motel (1950), Bel Air Motel (1960), and Lollipop Motel (1970).

The Doo Wop Museum features the Doo Wop Experience and Neon Sign Garden. Annual events such as the Fabulous ’50s & Beyond Weekend, with 1960s British legends Herman’s Hermits routinely on the bill, enhance the retro ambiance.

Just below the Wildwoods, picturesque Cape May, famed for its Victorian architecture, is America’s oldest seashore resort – founded in 1761. The circa-1869 Gingerbread House is among several B&Bs in the historic district. Other restored grande dames include the Virginia Hotel, now a 24-room boutique, and the 106room Congress Hall, known locally as the Big House, which features an underground pizzeria and club in its old boiler room. Two miles out of town in the 62-acre Beach Plum Farm with five historic cottages and barns for overnight stays.

Attractions include the free-admission Cape May Zoo and world-class birding at the Cape May Bird Observatory. At Cape May Point’s Sunset Beach, look for the half-sunken USS Atlantus, an experimental concrete ship from WW1.

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FISHING IN AC

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TALKING

Images: Carmela Amaddio

charity

with... James Bowen In 2007 James was a homeless heroin addict struggling to get by, until he met a ginger cat who changed everything

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And how did Bob cope?

James was on a methadone programme, busking to get by and living in assisted housing, when he came across an injured cat.

He took him in, nursed him back to health using his last £20 and named him Bob. The two became inseparable when Bob chose to accompany James busking and the rest is history. Their redemptive friendship has spawned nine books and two films. Sadly, Bob passed away last year.

before the book but I never realised how popular we had become until we shot to the number one bestseller position overnight. The publisher inadvertently chose my birthday as the release date and it was the best birthday present I could have had. We did a book signing at Waterstones in Islington Green and there were hundreds of people queuing up to meet us.

I’m so sorry that you lost Bob, how are you?

I had my moments, but I think I managed to keep myself grounded.

It helped that Bob had already drawn a lot of attention to us and I was used to being semi-famous.

We had regulars who would chat to

Thank you. It’s been really tough, but I’m getting through it. It was the greatest job in the world looking after him and I didn’t know what to do with myself after he died. Working on his memorial is keeping me busy.

A Bob-sized statue has been created by the Welsh artist Tanya Russell and it will be cast in bronze before being unveiled in Islington Green this July.

That’s quite a poignant place for me because it’s around the corner from Angel where we used to busk.

I’m also releasing a song dedicated to Bob. I’m in a band called Wild and Stray, along with my music partner Henry Facey, and we plan to release A Christmas Ballad for Bob later this year. Everything I do is in his honour and he will never be forgotten. We hit the zeitgeist together!

How did publishing the book change your life?

Bob and I had been selling The Big Issue and busking for so many years

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How did you cope with the fame?

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Did you have any other surreal moments?

We toured all around the world – it was crazy! Oslo, Lisbon, Paris… all across Germany and all around the UK. We had a 50th floor corner suite in the Ritz Carlton in Tokyo. There are very few territories that we haven’t visited and we’ve been published in over 40 languages. The film premiere in Mayfair was amazing too.

Probably the funniest thing I did was presenting the weather on Good Morning Britain using cat-related puns. ‘It’s raining cats and dogs, the weather won’t be pawsome today, we

We toured all around the world – it was crazy! Bob loved travelling on trains. He would settle himself by the window and watch the world go by us every day as well as tourists who would come looking for us, asking, “where is the guy with the cat?” They would insist on buying only from us, which caused a lot of problems and animosity from other Big Issue sellers. Nowadays they are all happy that I’ve shed light on their cause but at the time it was a dog-eat-dog world, or should I say dog-eat-cat!

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Bob was just Bob and he was always by my side. He loved the travelling, particularly trains. He would settle himself by the window and watch the world go by. It was unreal to see him travel so much. Sometimes when we were flying I would be able to get him out of the carrier briefly, before the air stewards came round, and he would look out of the window at the earth far below.

are feline like it’s going to rain,’ etc.

To be honest, I often thought to myself – “how has this happened?” – but I’d just look over at Bob and say thank you. He was always very stoic.

Were you happy with the film adaptation?

There was a long process between what I lived and what was in the

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film. They changed a lot of things and added a love interest. But it’s a dedication to Bob and I and I was happy to have a film made about us.

Tell us how Bob came to be in the film

Bob was only supposed to be in one scene, at the end of the film, crossing the Millennium Bridge on my shoulders. He did that great and then later we were in Covent Garden watching them film a busking scene. They had bought in seven cats from Canada but they all looked absolutely terrified. I said: “Bob won’t be like that because he’s used to it.”

So the director decided to give him another go. Bob sat down in front of Luke Treadaway and it went straight to action. An extra dropped change in front of him, Bob looked down at the change, unfazed, then he looked up as if to say thank you. He did this again and again and the director was amazed. They asked us to come in every day and the Canadian cats were relegated to second unit shots!

What is life like now?

I’m living in Surrey with my fiancé, Monika. We starting chatting on Facebook because we have a lot of mutual friends, discovered we have lots in common and hit it off. Bob was a very good judge of character and he approved right away. It also helped that he got along very well with her cat, Madame de Pompadour. We got engaged a few months after meeting when I proposed on a whale-watching trip

in Tenerife. The wedding was put on hold because of Covid, but in the meantime we have got ourselves two kittens, Bandit and Gizmo, and a puppy called Chewbacca.

What is your job at the moment?

I believe so much in paying forward and I do that by working with charities, Check out some of our because if it wasn’t great partner charities which for them I don’t are committed to supporting know if I’d be alive homeless people, getting them today. I work with starting to gather off the streets and giving homeless and pace. It will involve them back their dignity. animal charities, me sleeping rough in charitable.travel/ great-causes like the Big Issue, cities around the world Cats Protection and to see how governments Centrepoint tackle homelessness and I’m currently doing a documentary how those same societies view it with the Blue Cross about their collectively. I want to talk to people rehoming services and how they from the governments as well as use a behavioural therapist to help people experiencing homelessness. them find the right animals for the In general, homeless populations right people and get them settled are rising, but homelessness in. The Blue Cross is an amazing is different everywhere. Some charity which enabled me to take societies sweep it under the care of my soul mate without rug, some will tackle it but not worrying about money. necessarily in a good way. They My music partner and I are might arrest people or, as in the planning to write a Wild and Stray case of Skid Row in Los Angeles, album and I am always streaming they might contain them in one on my Facebook page – playing area. In Tokyo I was fascinated to music, doing readings from my see that whole communities of books, or answering fan questions. homeless people go into the parks at night and set up tents, but before What are your plans for the break of dawn they pack up the future? everything, clear every scrap of My passion project is a documentary rubbish and disappear into the about homelessness and it’s finally shadows, making way for the public to come through in the day.

Help the homeless

What do you hope to get out of the documentary?

I’m genuinely interested in investigating what the best solution is to tackle homelessness and, as I am probably the only British person in the public eye who has actually experienced it, I thought I should use my position to do that.

I know how it feels to be invisible but Bob was the catalyst to change that, he lifted my invisibility cloak.

Now I want to put my spotlight on homelessness.

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WHY I

donated Swimmer and ecology graduate George Taplin swam 71km through the Lake District to raise money for Just a Drop, because he believes in their sustainable approach to water aid I’ve been a competitive pool swimmer for a while but my first big open water swim was in 2017, with my dad. We swam over Lake Geneva, from Lausanne in Switzerland to Évian-les-Bains in France.

After that I went off to Sheffield University to study conservation and ecology and that really woke me up to the staggering pace of climate change.

We also studied temperature rises in equatorial Africa so I was acutely aware of the lack of clean water and the challenge of solving that problem sustainably. Just a Drop are really good at that. They don’t just tap into a finite source, they use technology to create sustainable water resources.

Last year lots of charities were suffering with a lack of funding due to the pandemic halting sporting events. I started to look for an open water swimming challenge I could use to raise money for Just a Drop and decided on the Lake District. Being both a beautiful place and a drinking water source made it perfect.

I was set on swimming Lake Windermere, the longest in the

country at 18km, but then I noticed that Coniston Water was close by and I had memories of walking there as a kid. I also knew that Wastwater was the most stunning lake. Before I knew it I was googling what the cumulative distance was if I swam the length of all 13 lakes and it was 71km. I decided this was feasible in three days.

I started training in March but then we went into lockdown and the pools closed. I used lakes and rivers close to home in Suffolk, and had seals joining me in the River Deben. A local farmer let me swim in his irrigation pond, but I did question the quality of that water!

Although the weather had been lovely leading up to the swim, just before there was a lot of rain and the lake temperatures dropped sharply, Wastwater to three degrees. I was a bit nervous that my body fat percentage wasn’t as high as it needed to be but there was no time to fatten up.

On the first day I set out to tackle Windermere. I had no intention of finishing it that day but I was so

aware of my core body temperature that I went very fast and did it in under four hours – ten minutes off the record!

I also completed Lake Conniston, meaning I swam 26km in total.

On day two I started out on a chilly Wastwater, overlooked by Scafell Pike.

There were four more lakes after that.

By day three I was in real pain from inflamed tendons in my arm and it didn’t help that I had to kayak to the start on Ullswater, the second longest lake. I’d lost all the blood in my hands and feet but my dad and girlfriend kayaked alongside, cheering me on and offering hot drinks and bananas, so my spirits were high. I finished on Derwentwater under a lovely sunset.

It was an amazing experience in a beautiful place and I had great support from the locals. I was lucky enough to be featured on BBC Breakfast TV, after which my fundraising total doubled to over £4,500. It made it all the more worth it for me and all the people who supported me.

Go with the flow

785 million people globally don’t have access to safe water. Just a Drop brings sustainable and safe water, sanitation and hygiene projects to communities in need. justadrop.org

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Cambodia

THAILAND

LAOS

Siem Reap

Cambodia Koh Kong

BAYON TEMPLE

LYNN & KARMEL THE CLEVER RAT

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THE FACES OF

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Phnom Penh

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Cambodia

Khmer vert “

…shhhhh. Quiet!” our tour guide hisses through his teeth. “Look ahead, in the trees!” Is it a bird or a snake? Or could it be a wild elephant? In this awe-inspiring wilderness, many of the inhabitants exist only here and nowhere else on earth.

Suddenly, leaves rustle just over the water. The foliage seems to move in tandem like a Mexican wave. Then we spot it: a silver langur launching from one branch to another in a brief but captivating acrobatic display.

From my canoe on the Phipot River in the southern Cardamom Mountains, I am desperately hoping to spy some of this area’s unique creatures. Long tailed macaques, Malayan sun bears, sunda Pangolins, and Siamese crocodiles are all endemic to these rivers and forests.

But tragically, due to habitat loss from illegal logging and the impact ofpoaching, most of these animals are now endangered. For this reason the land is under the watchful eye of the Wildlife Alliance, an NGO hard at work fighting those who exploit the environment for profit.

Earlier, I had got out of bed, dressed and stumbled into a pre-dawn mist where a small group of us made our way down the red-dirt road to the village pier. I’d prayed that our jungle hike later would be under canopy to shelter us

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Cambodia’s tourism industry is still primarily driven by its cities, both ancient and modern, but tourists are now venturing into the Cardamom Mountains to discover its emerging eco-tourism scene, says Lynn Houghton

from the already rising heat before clambering into the wooden boat and breathing in a mouth-watering aroma emanating from the helmsman’s bowl of steaming hot noodles. A short transfer to where the tributary meets the main river and we could board traditional canoes.

Now navigating upstream, we are surrounded on both sides by thick, mystical jungle. It’s a primordial experience where time is suspended but all too quickly we arrive at the riverbank and clumsily disembark. This is the chance to devour our breakfast pancakes that come wrapped in banana leaves.

From here we begin our trek, walking single file on the narrow path. It’s as if the lush foliage is a sound barrier because everything is strangely hushed, even the birds. I focus on the incredible biodiversity around me; mesmerised by the leaves glittering in the bright sun. It’s difficult to avoid tripping on protruding roots when my gaze is always pulled upwards to the canopy.

Back at Chi Phat, I retreat to my cosy bamboo bungalow at the Sunbear Lodge, escaping the heat for a well-deserved rest. Each hut is perched on stilts - necessary as during the wet season this area is flooded – and inside there is an essential mosquito net over a comfortable bed.

During my stay I enjoy simple but delicious meals at the Chi Phat community centre

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Cambodia

THE PHIPOT RIVER

which is run by four villages and overseen by the Community Based Eco-tourism Committee. Tasks like cooking and cleaning are shared by everyone and it creates a homely and inviting environment.

of temples, moats and statuary that make up the Angkor complex – including Angkor Wat.The presunrise wake-up call of 4.00am is tortuous but necessary to make the most of this vast area which has a 12km circumference. It also ensures Temples in the trees we arrive in time for the morning On emerging from the ‘show’. Taking our seats on a jungle I am met by set of stone steps opposite our tour guide and a large moat, we are taken to a hotel not disappointed as in bustling Siem the sky’s pastel pink Cambodia suffered a 99% loss Reap where I hues become coral in tourism when the pandemic join four other and then orange and struck. The Charitable Travel solo travellers for the sun slowly rises Fund is helping three Siem Reap an early supper behind the iconic hotels to provide 400 meals a A must-try local outline of Angkor Wat. day to those affected. dish is amok, a This 12th century charitabletravel.og creamy fish curry building was a Hindu made with coconut mausoleum for a king of milk and egg, flavoured the Khmer Empire and later with a mild paste of turmeric, kaffir converted to a Buddhist Temple lime, lemongrass and shallots, and and it is just one part of the huge served in a banana leaf bowl.

Angkor complex, the remains of Like everyone in Siem Reap we’re the ancient capital which, it is now here to see the famous collection believed, was the largest pre-

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industrial city in the world.

Once we cross the bridge and enter the compound, evidence of soldiers’ activity is visible. The bewitching carved stone dancers have been used for target practice and bullet holes still pock their eyes and scatter their torsos. A mere 45 years ago the country was controlled by the infamous dictator Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge regime.

I find Ta Prohm the most enchanting complex of them all. Enormous roots extend from

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SUNRISE AT ANGKOR WAT

fig, banyan and kapok trees and entwine themselves among the stones and crumbling buildings.

No wonder this is where the Tomb Raider film series was shot, it looks like a fantasy world. Nearby is the equally fascinating Bayon Temple famous for its enormous stone carved faces.

There is so much to see – the delicate rose hued statues and carvings of Banteay Srei, the silent rows of 54 gods and 54 demons that line the entrance to Angkor Thom – that I understand the necessity of a three-day pass. Alas, we have only one day and by evening find ourselves back where we started, watching the sunset over Angkor Wat and sipping a cool beverage.

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Enormous roots extend from fig, banyan and kapok trees and entwine themselves among the crumbling buildings Hero Rats

The next morning, we visit a special project dedicated to eradicating landmines, which once blighted the Angkor complex and still dot areas of the country. APOPO is an incredible charity which has a novel solution to these buried war relics.

It trains giant African pouch rats to sniff them out safely and quickly.

Across Cambodia there are still unexploded landmines, artillery rounds, grenades, mortars, and even bombs in the rural north. These ugly remnants of a three-decade long war have taken a severe toll on the people and Cambodia has the highest landmine accident rate per capita in the world.

At the visitor’s centre in Siem Reap we are briefed by the manager, Mr. Meas Sambat. He emphasises that the animals and their handlers are well protected. A landmine is never triggered by the rats, as they are too light, and they are trained to scratch

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the ground if they detect one.

The rats are trained by learning to associate the smell of explosive TNT with a tasty treat as well as becoming used to being handled and on a lead. I can see that the animals are extremely attached to their trainers. They work for six years before they retire to a special section of the compound full of stimulating toys and activities.

“We have a remarkable success rate of nearly 93%, with hundreds of hectares of land having been cleared,” Sambat tells us.

“Detonating, or removing the landmines and unexploded munitions, means farmers can replant the rice fields and grow crops such as cashew nuts. It completely changes the lives of rural Cambodian people.”

The big city

The last stop on my trip is Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia.

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Cambodia

day in luxury at the famous Eclipse roof top bar, where we enjoy cool breezes and spectacular views over a sparkling Phnom Penh.

We head to the outskirts of the city the next day, where evidence of the country’s dark past is preserved at the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre.

This is just one of the Khmer Rouge’s infamous ‘killing fields’ where the paranoid communist regime executed thousands of people it believed to be dissenters. It is a sobering experience with visceral

For a light end to a grim day, the last evening is spent at a Cambodian classical dance performance. Slender women wear ornate traditional costumes with tall hats that appear to represent temples, and their stiff poses are accentuated by sinuous hand movements. We also enjoy storytelling and comedy. No doubt the Khmer Rouge would not have allowed any of it.

Cambodia’s past, whether it is the dilapidated temples of Angkor Wat or the grim spectre of the

Stone Meng Eang/Unsplash

Striking for its energy, this attractive metropolis lies on the confluence of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap and Bassac Rivers. These waterways are the centre of everything in Phnom Penh, for human residents who take riverside strolls early in the morning and at sunset, and for the birds (little grebes, pigeons and Asian glossy starlings) who gorge themselves on the insects who swarm above the water.

The vast numbers of motorcycles darting in and out of every street is

PHNOM PENH-

SILVER LANGUR

like a colony of bees and means the city is always buzzing with phrenetic activity. Old sections of Phnom Penh are connected with chaotic bundles of electrical wire, bringing modern comforts to crumbling buildings.

Every neighbourhood has a produce market but the city’s Russian Market is the best place for souvenirs. Crowded and hot it’s socalled because it was popular with Russian expats in the 1980s and sells everything from carved Buddhas to piles of different coloured kramas – the ubiquitous checked scarves used by locals for everything from a baby sling to a bandana.

Our group converges to end the

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The vast number of motorcycles darting in and out of every street is like a colony of bees and means the city is always buzzing memorials of genocide including a monument filled with victim’s skulls.

It is estimated that between 1.5 and 3 million people died at the hands of the regime – even babies were not spared. Those targeted included the country’s educated, such as teachers and doctors, those with religious beliefs, ethnic minorities and artists.

Killing Fields, is fascinating. But the future of this energetic country could lie in what has been there all along – the jungle. It smothered the temples and eventually spat out the last of the Khmer Rouge and hopefully it will soon usher in a new era of sustainable wealth for the Cambodian people.

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YOU CAN HELP

Every year in the UK over five million wild animals and birds are injured by encounters with humans, here’s how you can help four species

Animal A&E

Tiggywinkles is a specialist hospital dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing British wildlife. To date, its pioneering veterinary team has looked after over 300,000 patients. sttiggywinkles.org.uk

HEDGEHOGS These prickled creatures are at risk of extinction and populations have declined by 46% in the last 13 years due to habitat destruction and human hazards. To make your garden safe, don’t use slug pellets, keep barbed wire and netting secure, check bonfires before you light, compost heaps before you dig and long grass before you cut.

If you find an injured hedgehog, use gloves to pick it up and put it in a cardboard box lined with newspaper and a towel to hide under. If it’s cold, add a wrapped hot water bottle. Offer dog or cat food and water until you can find a rescue service.

Encourage insects into your garden by adding native plants and make a hedgehog highway between yours and your neighbours’ gardens.

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DEER Out of the six species of deer living wild in the UK, only the Red deer and Roe deer are native. All species of deer hide their young alone in the grass for long periods of time whilst the mother goes away to feed so never assume a fawn has been abandoned if you find it alone. Never approach or touch one and move away if you come across one by accident. If your car hits a deer, keep your distance but watch to see where it goes and call your nearest wildlife hospital for advice. If you are already close, cover the deer’s head with a blanket to reduce stress until an experienced handler arrives.

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BADGERS Badgers are seldom seen alive as they are nocturnal and very shy but should only ever be handled by experienced wild animal handlers because they are strong, quick and potentially dangerous animals with a nasty bite. Badgers and their setts are protected under law to stop humans interfering with them. You should keep a safe distance, downwind, wear dark colours and keep quiet if you wish to observe one. If you find an injured or trapped badger, call a wildlife rescue service immediately.

FOXES The only British animal to have made a success of urban living, foxes are nevertheless at risk of injury from humans, commonly road accidents. Foxes should only be approached by experienced handlers as they can bite when cornered.

Always observe from a distance before calling an animal rescue service. FOxes can contract mange, sores and fur loss caused by skin mites. Those with advanced mange will need to be trapped and treated.

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Broadway Barn/Flickr

Feature

Roman Fox/Unsplash

LEITH HILL, SURREY HILLS

BRASSICA ROOM, BROADWAY BARN

48 HOURS IN

Surrey

With its classy food scene, pictureperfect villages, pretty countryside and sunny vineyards, Surrey offers much more than a weekend break but it’s a good place to start, says Sara Hardy

Friday lunchtime

Start your weekend in style with lunch at the characterful Onslow Arms in West Clandon– easily accessed from the M25.

The food here is consistently excellent with a wine list to match. You can snuggle up on one of the chesterfields that sit beside the imposing inglenook fireplace or, if the weather calls for rosé or Pimm’s, the walled garden is the perfect spot.

SHERE

Friday evening

The journey to Ripley (birthplace of guitar legend Eric Clapton, and your home for the next two nights) will take ten minutes. Once you’ve settled in to your beautiful accommodation at Broadway Barn (broadwaybarn.com), take a stroll down the tree-lined high street for a drink at the intimate Ripley Anchor which dates back to the 16th century and is owned by two protégées of Michelinstarred chef Steve Drake. Its cool but cosy atmosphere and prestigious accolades, including Michelin’s Bib Gourmand, make it a glorious spot for dinner.

Alternatively, a few steps down the high street will take you to The Clock House where you can enjoy the full Michelin star experience.

Saturday morning

If it’s the second Saturday of the month, call in to the farmers market on the village green before setting off because it’s a foodie’s paradise. Otherwise, drive ten minutes into the Surrey Hills to the chocolate box village of Shere.

You might find this place strangely familiar and that’s because it has

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DENBIES VINEYARD

Friday afternoon

Don’t get too comfortable because it’s a two-minute drive to the top of Newlands Corner for some of the best views in Surrey. Blow away the cobwebs with a choice of circular walks (varying in length and incline) which take you past the turquoise spring-fed lakes of the Silent Pool gin and vodka distillery.

You will also pass the organic vineyard of Albury which provides exquisite wines to many prestigious restaurants.

VILLAGE PUB

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DINNER AT SORREL

starred in numerous films, including Bridget Jones’ Diary. Park behind the village hall and meander down to the Dabbling Duck to enjoy a delicious breakfast beside the stream. Afterwards, take a stroll and soak up the atmosphere among pretty houses, boutique shops and tea rooms.

Saturday lunch

The twenty-minute drive to Denbies Wine Estate will take you through the stunning village of Abinger Hammer and across the Surrey Hills.

Offering spectacular views over the 265-acre vineyard, Box Hill and the North Downs, the vineyard’s contemporary Gallery Restaurant is a memorable setting for lunch. The seasonal set menu is almost entirely sourced from local suppliers and the wine list needs little introduction.

Saturday afternoon

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Take one of the hourly outdoor vineyard tours (suitable for children as the tour is provided by a covered tractor train) or an indoor winery tour.

If time allows, afterwards you could take the short drive up to Box Hill

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which is famous for its challenging cycle paths, not to mention more great views.

Saturday evening

There are two stand out places within an easy twenty-minute drive from Ripley. Michelin-starred Sorrel in Dorking offers mouth-tingling, intriguing flavours and its dishes are noted for their ingenuity and excellence. It was recently voted one of the UK’s sexiest restaurants, putting Surrey fine dining firmly on the map.

A bit closer to Ripley, the Swan Inn in Esher is one of star Spanish chef José Pizarro’s four restaurants, but his very first pub. Don’t be fooled by the gastro pub décor and village green setting; the tapas here rivals any I’ve had in Madrid.

Sunday morning

A few steps down Ripley high street is Nest Home and Café which has a range of tasty breakfast options in warm and relaxed surroundings. A five minute drive away is RHS Wisley where you can spend the day exploring the many parts of this wonderful garden which includes fruit fields, a rockery, rose garden and glasshouse, plus a restaurant and café.

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TAKING IN THE VIEW AT BOX HILL

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Wildlife hotspots On a cruise from Puerto Madryn we observed a southern right whale and her calf riding regally alongside our boat and it was strangely humbling.

Visiting South America’s largest colony of Magellan’s penguins at Punta Tombo was less majestic, but no

In Buenos Aires, don’t miss the iconic ‘Evita balcony’ of Casa Rosada and grand Recoleta

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We arrived by bus from Chile, over the Andes and into the heart of wine country, Mendoza. A boozy tour ensued (hic!) as we wandered straight lines of leafy vines beneath snowcapped peaks.

In Buenos Aires we admired grand Europeanstyle architecture and visited a milonga to see the passionate, sultry tango. Everywhere was full of Latin fervour - and flavour, in the form of more robust red wine (‘we keep the best here’, a waiter boasted), juicy steaks and indulgent dulce de leche for breakfast.

Heading south to El Calafate, we stood in the shadow of Glaciar Perito Moreno, a remarkable hunk of ice which advances up to two metres a day. Besides the stunning icy vistas, the explosions, as housesized chunks of ice peeled away and hit the water below, made for a thrilling afternoon!

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BY SARAH KIDDLE

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less impressive. Watching the dapper little creatures waddling about, before sliding into the sea and becoming aquatic acrobats, was a comic delight.

Our wildlife odyssey continued at Iberá National Park, but what a different scene - marshy wetlands with ‘floating’ reed islands, home to the world’s largest rodent, the capybara. The trees were full of birdsong and cackling monkeys and on a canoe ride I had a caiman’s open jaws just inches from my elbow!

Our tour ended in foaming fury of Iguazú Falls, the largest waterfall system on the planet - and correspondingly spectacular.

CHARITABLE TRAVELLER

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HUNGER & FOOD WASTE

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Millions of tonnes of good food is wasted by the UK food industry each year, yet so many people can’t afford to eat.

FareShare redistributes this surplus to other charities and with help from Marcus Rashford, the government and retailers, it doubled provision between March 2020/21.

128.5 MILLION

£44 MILLIO

FARESHARE SAVES THE STATE THIS SUM EVERY YEAR (THE NHS, THE CRIMINAL JUSTICE SYSTEM, SCHOOLS, SOCIAL CARE,

MEALS WERE DISTRIBUTED TO VULNERABLE CHILDREN, FAMILIES AND INDIVIDUALS IN THE PAST YEAR

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WHOLESALE AND DISTRIBUTION: 80,000120,000 TONNES

PROCESSING AND MANUFACTURING: 52,000-160,000 TONNES

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FIND OUT MORE AT FARESHARE.ORG.UK

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Along its seemingly endless coastline, on its myriad islands, amongst its vast green spaces and throughout its distinctive towns, Florida always has the capacity to astonish even veteran visitors. Here, we uncover five Florida destinations which might surprise you: the blissful beaches of Bradenton, the castaway communities of the Florida Keys, the cosmopolitan waterways of Fort Lauderdale, the untamed wilds of Lake County and the multi-cultural buzz of Tampa Bay...

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BRADENTON IS FULL OF COLOUR

Hiding in plain sight, only one hour from Tampa and two hours from Orlando, the Bradenton Area is an unspoiled gem of a destination on the west coast of Florida, hugged by two stunning barrier islands. It’s perfect for a relaxing beach holiday on its own, or as a twin centre with a more bustling neighbour.

The Bradenton area is the kind of place that allows you to say goodbye to your shoes and switch off your phone. Soft sandy beaches are made for everything from volleyball and sunbathing to bird watching and shell hunting. The pristine water is home to manatees, pods of dolphin and turtles, as well as being the perfect playground for boat trips, kayaking, paddle boarding and more.

If you can tear yourself away from the beach there’s plenty to see. Downtown Bradenton is full of character and culture and its Riverwalk is a hub for outdoor arts and concerts. You wont find mega malls but shopaholics will adore the Village of the Arts, an eclectic

Soft sandy beaches are made for everything from volleyball and sunbathing to bird watching and shell hunting

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NATURE HIKE AT EMERSON POINT, BRADENTON

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community of brightly-coloured 1920s cottages home to art galleries, craft shops and cafes.

Bradenton’s cuisine is dominated by locally-sourced produce with a farm-to-fork ethos. Stone crab and roe are a speciality. As well as its rows of bars and restaurants, the town has a farmer’s market and its own brewery.

Close-by, Cortez is the oldest working fishing village in Florida, with a working seafood market and plenty of places to grab some fish tacos. After, you can head to Mixon Fruit Farms to pick your own fresh oranges among its green groves.

Anna Maria Island is the jewel in the crown of the Bradenton area.

Just seven miles long and no more than a mile wide, this sugary strip is a dreamy place to unwind. Palm trees reign supreme on the island since buildings higher than three storeys are not permitted.

Instead of towering hotel blocks, accommodation on this uncrowded isle is mostly stylish, pastel-painted private villas or condos with pools, on or minutes from the beach, with the exception of the luxurious Waterline Marina Resort and Beach Club.

The island also favours independent businesses over chain establishments and restaurants, quirky cafes and tiki bars all have a toes-in-the-sand vibe.

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diversions to please all kinds of traveller. Adrenaline junkies can learn to kite surf in Islamorada or dive with sharks in Marathon. Eco warriors can visit the Turtle Hospital in Marathon or spot the unique deer at the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key. Families can take the Conch Tour Train in Key West

Once you’ve joined the overseas This string of 800 idyllic islands is conveniently connected by one spectacular road, stretching from the end of Florida’s swampy Everglades to Key West, the southernmost point of the continental U.S. It’s a place where you can reconnect with nature as well as your travelling companions, leave modern worries behind and gaze at the endless horizon instead scrolling never-ending content.

Once you’ve joined the overseas highway you’ve committed to cast away to the Conch Republic, a place of open skies and infinite sea views. Each of the Keys has its own personality and the further south you go, the more relaxed it gets.

Furthest north is Key Largo, home to the first undersea park in the U.S., where coral reefs, seagrass beds, mangrove swamps and a huge statue of Christ lie waiting to be explored. The six keys that make up Islamorada are known as the sports fishing capital of the world as well as being home to arty boutiques and ‘old Florida’ vibes. Then there are Marathon’s family-friendly, chilled out keys, the green and natural Lower Keys, and lastly Key West, the end of the U.S., where you can party in your flip-flops on Duval Street or meet the six-toed cats at novelist Ernest Hemmingway’s old house.

A holiday in the Keys isn’t all about lying on a beach, unless you want it to be, and there are plentiful

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CHARITABLE TRAVELLER

highway you’ve cast away to the Conch Republic, a place of open skies and infinite sea views while couples can elope to Little Palm Island Resort and Spa with its lagoon-style pool and Zen Garden.

Art lovers admire the galleries and studios of Islamoralda’s Morada Way Arts and Cultural District and foodies can fill up on Key West pink shrimp, locally brewed beer and key lime pie.

Because of its uniquely exotic locale, the Florida Keys takes sustainability seriously and is home to the 2,900 square nautical mile Florida National Marine Sanctuary which protects coral reefs, manatees, dolphins and more. There’s also the pristine beaches of Bahia Honda State Park and the remote islands of Dry Tortuga’s National Park, reached by seaplane or ferry from Key West.

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Greater Fort Lauderdale Located in Southeast Florida, just north of Miami, Greater Fort Lauderdale is accessible through no less than three international airports. As well as being a gateway to the Everglades, the region boasts miles of golden beaches and meandering inland waterways to explore, with a plethora of dining, shopping and entertainment options across its many diverse and welcoming communities.

Known as the Yachting Capital of the World and the Venice of America, Greater Fort Lauderdale has 24 miles of pristine beaches and 300-plus miles of navigable waterways. You can chill out next to a historic lighthouse on Hillsboro Beach or follow the shipwreck snorkel trail at Lauderdale-By-TheSea. Walk breezy promenades, try watersports including fishing, scuba diving and paddleboarding and enjoy an impressive choice of beachfront shopping and dining.

Inland, take a boat or a bike; a Segway or a kayak and check out some of the neighbourhoods, the TREE TOPS PARK, FORT LAUDERDALE

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mansions and mega-yachts of Millionaires’ Row, downtown Las Olas Boulevard with its hip coffee shops and boutiques, or the vibrant LGBTQ+-friendly Wilton Manors.

The food and drink scene in the region is strong. Luxury hotels are a good starting point for fine dining, like the new Takato at the Conrad Fort Lauderdale Beach Hotel, serving up Japanese and Korean fusion. But there are plenty of casual eateries too, like the Rustic Inn Crabhouse where you can get your bib on and crack into some seafood. And check out the many craft breweries on the Greater Fort Lauderdale Ale Trail.

There are a huge choice of museums and art galleries in Fort Lauderdale but if you can’t bear to waste the sun, take a tour of the Hollywood Murals, there are 20 by internationally recognised artists – all outside. Movie buffs look out because crews are often seen filming in vintage Hollywood Beach. And if you need to catch a flick head to the quirky Savor Cinema, housed in an old church.

There are always new, exciting openings in Greater Fort Lauderdale and all are committed to the Visit Lauderdale Safe + Clean Pledge.

New digs include Hotel Maren Fort Lauderdale Beach, a modern boutique hotel near the bright lights of Las Olas Boulevard.

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45

Sponsored LAKE DORA

Lake County Small towns full of authentic charm abound in Lake County. Historic Mount Dora is lined with cute canopied shops and palm trees.

You can wander the boardwalk by the lake, take a ride on the historic railway or hop aboard a canal boat to explore waterways draped in Spanish moss. Downtown ALEXANDER SPRINGS RECREATION AREA

Just 35 minutes from Orlando you can switch from theme parks to green parks and change the soundtrack from screams to songbirds amongst the wide-open spaces of Lake County.

Acres of protected nature are bursting with unique flora and fauna, like the Florida Scrub-jay and gopher tortoise. Lake Louisa State Park offers glamping, room for RVs and lakeside cabins. Its trails wind past submerged cypress trees and through forest and old orange groves, with the chance to spot bald eagles, deer and bobcat. At Lake Griffin State Park you can hike through pristine swampland, see the state’s second largest live oak tree and maybe spot a bear.

Lakes and parks offer activities like fishing, canoeing, paddle boarding and horse riding and hikers and cyclists are in heaven with the choice of trails. The Apopka Loop Trail follows the edge of Apopka Lake, where alligator lurk, and leads up to the panoramic Green Mountain Scenic Overlook.

Amidst rolling farmland, Sugarloaf Mountain is the highest point in peninsular Florida, with stunning vistas of glittering Orlando. The South Lake Trails has nine miles of beautiful views and picnic spots and connects to the 22-mile West Orange Trail, an old train route which passes through nostalgic 1950s towns.

Wind past submerged cypress trees and through forest and old orange groves, with the chance to spot bald eagles Clermont is known for its food and drink scene. Taste local beers at SunCreek Brewery or the Clermont Brewing Co. or tuck into local flavours at the Crooked Spoon pub.

And with its many boutique shops, cafes and bakeries, Leesburg is a great place to browse and graze.

Time your visit right and you can drop in at one of Lake County’s many festivals, like the Mount Dora Craft Fair in October, celebrating fine art, crafts, food, drink and live music; or the Lakeridge Winery Harvest Grape Stomp every August in Clermont.

And depending on the season, visit a farm to pick your own peaches or blueberries, gaze at sunflowers or get lost in a corn maze.

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Tampa Bay Tampa Bay is a buzzing and eclectic region at the heart of Florida’s Gulf Coast, offering endless open-air fun – including al fresco dining – lush state parks and a sparkling waterfront. With a wide range of new attractions, events, restaurants and hotels, there is always a reason to head to Trophy Town.

Why Trophy Town? Well, the Tampa Bay Buccaneers became the first team to host and win the Super Bowl this February. Sports are a big deal here, but there is more to entertain. Busch Gardens® Tampa Bay is home to superlative rollercoasters – Tigris is the tallest launch coaster in Florida. There’s also a water park, Adventure Island, with wet and wild rides like Solar Vortex; The Florida Aquarium with its Florida Wetlands Trail, home to otters and alligators, and ZooTampa at Lowry Park, where you can visit convalescing sea cows at the Manatee Critical Care Centre.

If you prefer a slower pace you can always take to the water. The Hillsborough River and the bay

CITY KAYAKING, TAMPA

Ybor City is an exciting cultural melting pot thanks to the Cuban and European immigrants who settled there long ago

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BAYSHORE BOULEVARD

are just waiting for kayakers and paddle boarders. Or head to the Alafia River State Park to enjoy miles of biking and hiking trails through forests and gentle hills. City slicker? Stroll around the Tampa Musuem of Art, or along the 2.6mile Tampa Riverwalk which links some of the city’s top attractions – you can even enjoy a tipple as you go, thanks to a special license.

Ybor City, the ‘Cigar Capital of the World’, is an exciting cultural melting pot thanks to the Cuban and European immigrants who settled there long ago. You can learn how cigars are made at J.C. Newman Cigar Company or visit José Martí Park, which was the only piece of Cuban-owned land in the U.S. until the Cuban Embassy opened in 2015.

Tampa Bay is famous for its nightlife and multi-cultural cuisine. You can sip cocktails at a swanky rooftop bar or whisper the password for Ciro’s Speakeasy in the old Bayshore Royal building.

Prefer beer? Grab a cold one at one of the many microbreweries, like the 20-tap Coppertail Brewing Co. Treat yourself to fine dining at the new JOTORO by Michelin-star chef, Joe Isidori or go snacking at the Heights Public Market - try Bake ‘N Babes’s instagrammable cookies.

Taste Sicilian at new restaurant Casa Santo or Cuban-style Spanish at Florida’s oldest eatery, Columbia.

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Get to know...

GRENADA

CARIBBEAN ISLANDS

Lying in the far south of the Caribbean, Grenada is dubbed the Spice Island. No building is permitted to be taller than a palm tree on this unspoilt isle, but with white sand beaches and luxurious resorts along its Caribbean coast, pounding surf and hidden coves on its rugged Atlantic side, a wild rainforest interior and a bustling capital, you’ll never be bored.

Sugar and spice

Grenada is a bountiful island where avocados and bananas grow at the side of the road. It produces 20% of the world’s supply of nutmeg, along with other spices like cloves, cinnamon, mace and turmeric, and you can visit the Gouyave Nutmeg Processing Station to learn more about the so-called ‘black gold’. There’s also the Belmont Estate, an old plantation where you can wander gardens of sugar cane and orchids, learn how chocolate is produced and feast on fresh goats’ cheese. Grenada’s food scene ranges from fine dining at the late Gary Rhodes’ restaurant in The Calabash Hotel to home cooked soul food like green banana salad and gingered pork at Patrick’s.

Hit the beach

There are 45 white sand beaches and nine black sand beaches on Grenada. Grand Anse is the most famous and bustling stretch of sand.

Other beauties include Morne Rouge Bay, a perfect crescent hugged by greenery; Pink Gin Beach’s rose-hued sand with views of St George’s; the rugged and deserted La Sagesse and Magazine Beach, home of the funky Aquarium restaurant.

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Grenada

Ian Yeo/Unsplash

What is it all about?

GRANDE ANSE

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And another thing Grenada has some unique accommodation options...

Explore the capital

Colourful homes line the narrow streets which wind up into the hills surrounding the attractive harbour of St George’s. At the centre of town is the market square, where sunwrinkled, smiling ladies sell spices, rum and other local produce. It’s worth visiting Fort Frederick for the commanding views over the city from its well-preserved battlements.

True Blue Bay Resort This downto-earth and characterful resort is popular with sailors and divers and its lively restaurant, the Dodgy Dock, looks out over a marina.

LaLuna A secluded boutique resort, LaLuna has just 16 suites and two villas with romantic Balinese décor and plunge pools, plus a spa and Italian/ Caribbean restaurant.

CONCORD FALLS

The Grand Etang National Park is just part of the mountainous rainforest which smothers Grenada and draws hikers and nature lovers alike.

The lush vegetation includes mahogany and giant gommier trees, ferns and tropical flowers and is home to monkeys, armadillos, mongoose and hummingbirds.

A refreshing way to see the tropical scenery is by tubing down the Balthazar River, spinning through the swirling currents. There are many waterfalls in Grenada, including Annandale Waterfall where you can join locals jumping from the top into the natural pool. Or walk the wild St Margaret’s Trail for an insight into what life was like for the indigenous Carib and Arawak people and you’ll stop at the cool blue Seven Sisters waterfall.

Activities in Grenada include sailing, kayaking, snorkelling or fishing on the water and horse riding, quad biking and island tours on land. The latter cover the Atlantic coast, rainforest, numerous pretty villages and attractions like the River Antoine Rum Distillery.

K UNDERWATER SCULPTURE PAR

Company is a pioneer in organic and sustainable chocolate

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Beneath the tranquil sea, Grenada is teaming with life and colour. Log book entries for divers here include gentle nurse sharks, stately turtles, walking frog fish and gliding eagle rays, as well as the vivid corals and sponges they live amongst. Grenada is famous for wrecks, particularly the Bianca C, a 180-metre cruise liner which sank in 1961 and whose decks are now patrolled by reef sharks. There’s also an underwater sculpture park.

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Adventure awaits

The Grenada Chocolate

Petite Anse Hotel This 11-room hotel is set in a secluded spot above Grenada’s dramatic north coast, with colonial-style décor and a pool and Jacuzzi as well as a deserted beach.

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GRENADA’S RAINFOREST

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Slow travel

Take it slow

A year of being forced to stay put hasn’t put paid to the slow travel trend and as we return to the pace of normality, you might well start longing for the leisurely life. Laura Gelder explores four ways to slow down

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low travel is a state of mind as much as it is a style of travel. As tempting as it is to tick off as many sights as you can, there’s merit in exploring a smaller list but lingering longer for a more immersive experience, staying put altogether, or letting the journey be the main event. Here are some ideas for how to journey slowly - all bookable with Charitable Travel of course.

Take the train, not the plane

Trains are surely the travel lover’s way to travel.

There’s something ridiculously romantic about trundling through new and everchanging landscapes, catching fleeting glimpses of places you never knew existed and stolen snatches of other people’s lives.

Train tracks can offer access to untamed landscapes that cars will never see. The TransSiberian Express (the longest railway in the world) crosses some of the most remote places on the planet – the vast grasslands of Siberia as well as the Gobi Desert. The Ghan starts out chugging across the vineyards of South Australia but crosses the country’s arid Red Centre – the name is a nod to the hardy Afghan camel herders who first explored

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this vast and inhospitable desert.

Of course you can’t get catch these trains from a UK station, but if you wish you can keep your holiday firmly on the rails from start to finish. Great Rail Great Rail Journeys offers rail journeys across the British Isles, including its Vintage Railways of the Isle of Man tour and a new Edinburgh, Inverness and the Highlands journey. Eurostar now links to Amsterdam as well as Paris and Brussels – and from any of these cities your choice of onward connections is endless. Or, if you want to travel in real style, you could take Belmond’s Venice SimplonOrient-Express, which will swish you elegantly from London to the romantic Italian cities of Venice or Verona.

Railbookers has lots of rail options for greenlist favourite Portugal. Fly into Porto and out of Lisbon, taking the train between with a twonight stop in Coimbra to explore its beautiful parks and Baroque architecture.

There are rail journeys in almost every country in the world, from the iconic - like the Rocky Mountaineer in Canada - to the obscure, like Taiwan’s Alishan Forest Railway, which winds through the green mountains, waterfalls, wasabi farms and tea plantations of Alishan National Park.

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Put your boots on Sugarloaf Mountain. And there are The ultimate in slow travel, walking plenty of long-distance routes if you is a great way to appreciate want a challenge, from the UK’s landscapes and access remote Pennine Way between the Peak places. Using your own two feet District and the Scottish Borders means you can keep to your to 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail, preferred pace and stop whenever the longest hiking-only footpath in you want to soak up the the world between Georgia small details. and Maine in the U.S. You can incorporate Or you can conquer walking into any a peak, like Mount holiday, whether Kilimanjaro in you’re tackling the Tanzania or Mount World Bicycle Relief delivers high passes of a Kinabalu in Borneo. specially-designed bikes to help people in the developing world mountain range If you want to to complete every day tasks like the Alps or the make walking the which we take for granted. cobbled streets of a focus of a holiday, an worldbicyclerelief.org European city. organised tour takes There are walking the strain by providing routes around the world guides for remote that offer access to ancient areas or, if you are walking treasures, like the Inca trail to Peru’s long distance, transporting your ancient city of Machu Picchu or the luggage between each way point, Great Wall of China. Famous walks leaving you light and free. traverse through or offer incredible G Adventures has introduced a views of cities, like the Sydney Great number of new hiking holidays Coastal Walk or Rio de Janeiro’s across Europe, including green-

Get on your bike

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destinations range from the Rockies in North America to the Himalayas in Asia.

If you’d prefer to keep it flat then you can’t get much flatter or more bike-friendly then the Netherlands, where you can pedal through its iconic scenery of windmills and dykes. Adventure specialist Explore has an eight-day trip covering the green heart of Holland, including the cheesy town of Gouda. Other easy-grade tours from Explore include its Cycling the Baltic States trip, taking in capital cities, national parks, beaches and medieval castles across Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia.

On Madeira walkers follow the island’s ‘levada’ trails, or irrigation channels,

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through dramatic rocky terrain

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It might be faster than walking, but cycling still embraces the ethos of slow travel, letting you go at a leisurely pace and stop whenever you feel the urge. Whether you are a mountain biker looking for challenging terrain and a thrilling descent or someone dreaming of pootling between French villages with a baguette in your basket, there’s a holiday for you.

Some of the world’s best and most accessible mountain biking can be found in Scotland or over the channel amongst the Alps, crossing France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein and Slovenia and offering challenging but well-mapped routes. Further afield other stand-out mountain

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list destinations like the Azores and Madeira – both hiking heavens.

Its six-day Azores journey takes in the islands of São Miguel and Terceira, with hikes past impressive waterfalls, lava fields and bubbling hot springs. And on Madeira walkers will follow the island’s famous ‘levada’ trails, or irrigation channels, through dramatic rocky terrain and past tumbling waterfalls.

Let the tide take you

While island hopping on a mega cruise ship isn’t really in keeping with the slow travel theme, there are cruising holidays which facilitate a more mindful style of travel. River cruising offers slow-motion scenery, with options ranging from the parade of historic cities along the Danube to exotic golden temples along the Mekong in southeast Asia.

Slower still, narrowboats are a great option for UK travel – the country is criss-crossed by hundreds of miles of canals which pass through major cities as well as stunning countryside. France also has a proliferation of waterways and French cruise line CroisiEurope has a fleet of barges which drift along the picturesque canals and rivers of Provence and the Loire Valley, serving gourmet cuisine inspired by the local terroir as they go.

If you seek the salty tang of a sea breeze, head to the Mediterranean for a sailing holiday. The beauty of yachts is that they offer access to deserted coves inaccessible to the average tourist. Tour operator Intrepid offers leisurely sailing tours through the Greek or Croatian islands. Or try its Hike, Boat and Kayak trip along Italy’s Amalfi coast - you’ll be incorporating three forms of slow travel in one go!

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DRIVING

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We chat to Gary Booth, founder of Chequered Flag Motorsport, a CIC which is, quite literally, driving profits for charites and having lots of fun doing it

What is Chequered Flag Motorsport?

We are a not-for-profit Community Interest Company (CIC) delivering events for businesses and the general public and donating the profits to charity. We don’t just organise a get-together, our events are centred around our state-of-theart driving simulator which lets you experience the breath-taking feeling of driving a high-speed racing car via a 49-inch curved HD monitor and force feedback controls. This isn’t just a Playstation attachment, it’s a professional piece of kit that racing drivers use!

The events are totally free to attend or host, all we ask is that people donate to a charity each time they use the simulator. If you’re a business that wants to host a free, fun event or a racing competition – to reward your staff, promote your brand or products or entertain some important clients, we can do that.

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Why did you start a CIC?

I was struck down by a stroke in 1994 at the age of 31 and found myself completely paralysed down my left side, unable to talk or walk and faced with a mountain of challenges to get my life back to something like normality. The focus for after care was very much on the physical side so as soon as I was up and moving about I was deemed ok and sent on my merry way, but afterwards I struggled hugely with my mental health. I also lost my career and struggled financially. The experience made me want to fundraise to help others but the time wasn’t right.

In 2018 I was made redundant and, having been left with a small amount of money and some spare time, I set about looking into how I could make money for charity. Purely by chance, I visited a motorbike factory where they had a simulator. The idea struck me: if I could find a mobile one of these I could take it to events

and charge people to use it. I found a manufacturer and that was it.

What happens at one of your events?

I run each event as a competition.

We select one track and one car from the simulator programme and stick with that for the night and people can have a go and see how fast they can complete it. We have a prize, usually donated by the motorsport community – things like signed racing memorabilia or an alloy wheel coffee table – and we have a leaderboard, a bit like in the TV programme Top Gear. We also do a presentation at the events about our charities, so people are aware of what they are supporting by taking part.

How do you ensure you raise enough money to cover your costs?

It’s the competition aspect that really makes it work because it takes over.

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What are your plans for the future?

People become very focused on that leaderboard and they will go on the simulator again and again in order to get to the top of it – paying each time of course. So, people have a good time, there’s a bit of fun, a bit of excitement, a bit of competition. And if it’s a business event it also helps to stimulate networking naturally because it’s a fun, social setting.

How’s it going so far?

We did our first event in February 2020, just before the first lockdown.

So, as you can imagine, the pandemic has slowed us down a bit.

However, we have since managed to hold a few events, including a business networking event in Newcastle attended by 30 small companies. We also ran an event for the charity Support Dogs In Sheffield.

Both went well and proved that the model really works. In Newcastle we had a guy who was very keen on the simulator. I said to him “Darren, why do you keep coming back to this when you have a real Porsche in the car park?” He said: “I don’t care how much it costs I want to get to the top of that leaderboard.” That was music to my ears!

an amazing Sheffield charity that operates a school for kids living with neurological conditions like cerebral palsy and they have recently expanded to help adults too. We also support two local charities: Wakefield Street Kitchen which provides meals, clothing, toiletries and books to those in need and Rainbow Baby Bank, which provides young and vulnerable families with food and clothing they cant afford. Both of these charities have had to expand their services since the pandemic because there are more people needing their help.

Will you expand to support other charities?

As soon as I started promoting Chequered Flag Motorsport on social media I was approached by other charities, including Wish Upon a Star and Dementia UK. We are open to working with all kinds of charities so just get in touch and ask!

The plan is to host lots more events so that we can support our charities.

We also want to attend charity events, like golf days and gala balls.

I have a bit of a side project connected to a friend of mine, a young guy with a family and kids who very unexpectedly became an amputee. Like me, he struggled with his mental health but he got really into fitness and now runs bootcamps for amputees. His philosophy is “I’ve lost a limb, not my life.” I wanted to do something for him because he’s always looking out for others, and he told me his ultimate dream is to drive a racing car. My search to fulfil this led me to a professional racing organisation for the disabled and we are looking to host a driving event for amputees. We have around 200 people who are interested and it’s being turned into a TV documentary!

As a result of this we have bought our own race car and have plans to run a 24-hour race next year with a team of neuro-diverse, disabled and less privileged drivers.

Running a CIC has given me a reason to get out of bed, a purpose.

Pole position

What charities do you support?

Find out more about Chequered Flag Motorsport and how you can host a fun event and raise money for charity at the same time. charitable.travel/ chequered-flag

We have four core charities that are all close to my heart.

Different Strokes supports people of working age or younger who have suffered from a stroke. PACES is

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Panama

Crossroads of the Americas Panama might be a wisp of a country but it packs a diverse punch, says Laura Gelder

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’m pretty sure the iguana is dead. I glance at my friend, Mick, wondering if he’s thinking what I’m thinking. He looks as bemused as me and more children gather round, excitedly poking the poor thing through the cage with sticks.

“This lizard is deceased,” I hiss to Mick. out of the corner of my mouth.

“No, no it’s just resting,” he retorts.

I knew he was a Monty Python fan. “This is an ex-lizard,” I say. At this point we start to fall about laughing, much to the amusement of the kids.

We can’t really explain to them the parallel between their pet reptile and Monty Python’s famous dead parrot sketch because they’d never understand – the children don’t speak English and

live on a tiny island in the remote San Blas archipelago, part of the Guna Yala region in Panama.

Guna Yala is the nation of the Guna people, an indigenous group small in stature but big in spirit. The Guna are one of Panama’s seven native tribes and fought to have autonomy over their land, which includes a 232-mile-long strip of the Caribbean coast from the Colombian border.

Most of the Guna live in the San Blas Islands but climate change is forcing them to look shoreward where a town is being built on higher land.

We’re on one of the four main inhabited islands, Gardi Sugdub, where around 2,000 people live despite it being just 400 metres long and 150 metres wide. Every inch of space seems to be filled and the houses, fashioned from corrugated iron, reeds and bamboo, extend out over the water in places.

As we cross the island we happen upon two nattily-dressed Mormons, who wave

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at us cheerfully, their black suits and crew cuts incongruous next to a local woman hanging out her washing. Like most Guna women she’s dressed in vivid clothes sewed with molas, colourful embroidered squares of fabric.

I’m dubious about much impact the Mormons have had on this matriarchal society and as we duck into a hut to attend a puberty ceremony, I’m thinking… not much.

Held to mark a girl’s coming of age, it’s attended by a large crowd.

Within the palm walls it’s dark and a bit steamy and everyone, including teenagers, are drinking a boozy brew of fermented sugar cane as a storm gathers outside. The Guna have welcomed Mormonism, our guide explains, but they still have their traditional beliefs, which are stongly rooted in nature, and continue to be wholly accepting of transgender members of the community – they call it the ‘third gender’.

The next day I awake on Aguja Island and find I have arrived in

the Caribbean of my childhood drawings, a place where tiny whitesand islands glint on every horizon, some festooned with just a single palm ruffled by the salty breeze.

There are no high-rise hotels, no hotels really – just tiny guesthouses offering beds in basic wooden huts.

There are no sun loungers, just solar-faded hammocks strung up between palm trees. And there is no Starbucks, Haagen Dazs or any other brands, just fresh seafood delivered by dug-out canoe and served with coconut rice.

We pick a few islands at random, snorkelling to shore through turquoise water and picking our way across bleached driftwood, coconut husks and pink conch shells to ramshackle huts to meet the smiling Kuna owners, who are always happy to share their paradise if we take a look at their molas for sale.

Back to reality

We don’t want to leave Eden, but the capital calls us back. Panama City

has been around since 1519 and was the first Spanish settlement on the Pacific side of the Americas. It was this decision, along with its narrow geography, which sealed its fate as a strategically important spot.

The ruins of Panama Viejo are all that’s left of the city’s first site, where tonnes of Incan gold passed through in the 1500s on its way to Spain. After a ransacking by Sir Francis Drake, privateer Henry Morgan pillaged the city and razed it to the ground. It was reborn in what is now known as Casco Viejo or the Old Quarter.

This is Panama City’s jewel, a compact maze of narrow streets and pretty plazas with pavement cafes begging to be frequented.

Around each corner are grand churches, market stalls selling Panama hats and streets of distressed buildings, with pink, ochre and green paint peeling behind sprays of bougainvillea. The tide of gentrification is obvious in boutique hotels like Casa del Horno, but from the balcony of its penthouse suite,

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with hip exposed brick walls, I can see into the disintegrating slum opposite where little kids play.

The most beguiling thing about Casco Viejo is its juxtaposition with the new Panama City. From the cool rooftop bar of hotel Tantalo, we sip a mojito and gaze upon the sparkling skyline of the modern city across the bay. Stand-out skyscrapers are the crazy corkscrew of the El Tornillo building and the sail-shaped JW Marriott, the highest tower and once Donald Trump’s Ocean Club hotel and condos, which was accused of being a centre for Colombian cartels to launder their drugs money.

Being a tax haven at the crossroads of the Americas means Panama has always drawn less than scrupulous types – like the infamous Brit John Darwin, who faked his own death via a canoe accident and came here to live off his own life insurance.

Let’s just say that the capital attracts characters. In a café I get

chatting a nice American who claims to be one of the CIA agents who captured Panamanian despot Manuel Noriega in 1989. Now retired and enroute to the Caribbean isles of Bocas del Toro, he’s sporting a Hawaiian shirt and a novelty baseball cap and shows how much has changed here since Noriega – dictator, rouge CIA spy and drug trafficker – was in charge.

Panama City is an interesting mishmash of cultures. The population are mostly of Spanish or indigenous descent, but many have African heritage and there’s a big Chinese community. Much of this multiculturalism comes from the building of the Panama Canal, one of the world’s man-made wonders.

Watching monster container ships pass through Mira Flores Lock is strangely absorbing. Nearly 14,000 ships cross the 80km canal every year, taking four hours, displacing 220 million litres of water per ship and generating millions of dollars.

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The fertile volcanic soil helps to make the world-class coffee but it also boosts the locals’ vegetable patches and the flowers

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that run riot at the side of the road It’s worth visiting the lock’s museum to understand the human cost of building in a yellow-fever-infested swampland, and the extraordinary efforts that go to thwarting nature’s attempts to reclaim it.

Natural highs

The canal was partly created by nature, since the Chagres River already existed. But the building of it created Gatun Lake, now the site of eco-resort Gamboa where we spend a day spotting wildlife. It’s just an hour from the city but on a boat trip we see capuchin and tamarin monkeys hanging from the trees, iguanas scampering the banks and crocodiles lurking offshore. Even inside the resort grounds capybara rambled and we glimpse a blinking sloth dangling from a tree. In nearby Soberanía National Park it feels a thousand miles from the city and we walk in hushed silence through the jungle, spying the silhouettes of toucans flitting above.

After a one-hour flight from Panama City we arrive in another

world, the Chiriquí Highlands.

Boquete is the base for exploring Panama’s coffee region and the air is pleasantly cool as we drive through misty valleys and past the rushing torrent of the Rio Caldera.

The river runs off Volcán Barú, a dormant volcano and Panama’s highest point. It’s the fertile volcanic soil which helps make the coffee world-class, but it also boosts the vegetable patches of strawberries, onions and cabbage which adorn every local’s garden and the flowers that run riot at the side of the road. It’s no wonder this lush and beautiful place is so popular with retired expats and we meet many in the local cafes, sipping coffee without a care in the world.

The area’s most famous flower is the angel’s trumpet. Peach and cream coloured, they hang like magical ornaments from every wall at hotel Finca Lerida, where I spot the blur of a hummingbird.

I could stay here all day, listening to the rain and looking out for the flash of green and

Right to live

Indigenous groups like the Guna are threatened by climate change and habitat destruction.

Survival International works with them to amplify their voice and save their way of life. survivalinternational. org

red which signals the resplendent quetzal bird, but it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee.

At plantation Casa Ruiz we take a bean-to-cup tour from another of Panama’s characters, Carlos. It’s not his encyclopaedic knowledge of coffee, or his passion for the organic environment in which the beans grow here, amongst mango, guava and avocado trees, but his insight into Boquete living that provides the entertainment. He asks us, mischievously, what Boquete’s most common bird is. According to Carlos it’s the snowbird – that not-so-rare breed of retired North American who flies south for winter to nest in this beautiful place. I can’t say I blame them.

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WEST WITTERINGS & EAST HEAD This pale sandy beach in West Sussex is at the entrance to Chichester Harbour and looks across the sail-filled Solent. Backed by dunes and brightly painted beach huts, it’s popular with families as well as windsurfers and kitesurfers.

National Trust-managed East Head next door is a constantly shifting spit of white sand filled in with a maze of tufted dunes crossed by boardwalks.

The beach and salt marshes are home to common seals, skylarks and sand lizards while the dunes erupt with wildflowers in the summer.

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LUSKENTYRE SANDS Found on the west coast of South Harris in the Outer Hebrides, Luskentyre is a spectacular panoramic beach of dazzling white sand, stretching for miles and melting into Caribbeanesque turquoise water that turns deep blue further out. However, there are no resorts here, just a few tiny farmsteads with grazing sheep on bright green grass, some wee white cottages and a couple of graveyards.

Framing the beach, in the distance are the bruised curves of the island’s mountains, often hugged by clouds.

five beautiful

BRITISH BEACHES Whether it’s your dream or your back-up plan, there are plenty of stunning British beaches to pick from

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PUTSBOROUGH This part of North Devon is home to many stunning beaches but the golden arc of Putsborough is perfectly placed between the wild and rocky Baggy Point peninsula and the hotels, shops and cafes of pretty seaside town Woolacombe.

Backed by a patchwork quilt of rolling green fields, the beach has plenty of rock pools to root in and you can either get out on the water or relax and watch surfers roll in on foam-flecked waves.

BROAD HAVEN SOUTH On Wales’ epic Pembrokeshire coast, Broad Haven South balances drama with relaxed vibes. The wide sandy bay is backed by soft dunes and protected by towering, craggy cliffs. It can be reached at one end by following the winding path down from the cliffs or at the north end via a flat route through the lily decorated Bosherston Lakes, a National Nature Reserve home to otters, wildfowl and dragonflies. The beach is famous for its view of Church Rock (which also looks like the sorting hat from Harry Potter depending on the tide state) and there are caves and rock pools to explore.

BAMBURGH This windswept Northumberland beach is dominated by the imposing Bamburgh Castle which has watched over the biscuity sands since the 6th century. The dune-backed beach is popular with kite fliers and walkers, who come across the rugged Northumberland Coast Path, as well as families with buckets and spades. Opposite the beach are the Inner Farne Islands, home of hermits and monks since the 7th century. Other curiosities include a rock painted with a white stag and a small lighthouse - the most northerly of its kind in mainland England.

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Turning the corner, I stumbled across Murder and Mayhem, a tiny and cluttered bookshop specialising in crime. Across the street was Addyman Books, a teetering mass of tomes emanating the blissful smell of mildewed paperbacks and home to an impressive collection of Penguin Classics. Next door

You can kayak on the River Wye and the four-mile stretch

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artisan pieces and ‘modern vegetarian’ food. But over the road is the country outfitters, F W Golesworthy and Son, with its dummies sporting tweed overcoats.

Peace at last

Hay is on the edge of the Black Mountains, area of rolling moorland and barren peaks

Bo

A page turner As I strolled down the high street in Hay-onWye I caught a distinct whiff of books on the breeze. Outside the town’s crumbling castle was a small jumble sale, with well-thumbed paperbacks stacked in crates, pages ruffling in the breeze. If I’d known just how many more bookshops there were I might not have browsed here for so long.

For a little country town straddling the border between England and Wales, Hay, (as it’s called by the locals), has an awful lot of second-hand bookshops. Apparently the first was opened in the 1960s but now there are more than 30 and since 1988 the town has played host to the Hay Festival of Literature, one of the world’s most famous and dubbed

by Bill Clinton as ‘the Woodstock of the mind’.

But Hay is an unassuming place which has kept to its roots. There are flashes of gentrification and some trendy places. The Old Electric Shop wouldn’t be out of place in Shoreditch or Brighton, selling vintage and

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between Glasbury and Hay is idyllic was Richard Booth’s, a more polished emporium with three floors of books plus a café and a cinema.

Hay is simply heaven for book worms. It wasn’t long before I retired to my countryside cabin to read in peace, surrounded by damp green fields and woolly sheep and watched over by the blustery Black Hill and Hay Bluff.

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GOING

glocal Could ‘glocal tourism’ be the key to a tourism industry that benefits small communities over big business?

Mark Bibby Jackson thinks so

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followed by Finland, Austria, Estonia and Norway. The rest of the top 20 is dominated by European nations, until Bolivia which takes the 22nd spot. The UK is in 40th place out of the 99 countries.

kov/Unsplash Eugene Chystia

The fast-track vaccination programmes rolling out across many countries indicate that the tail-end of 2021 will see a resurgence of international travel, albeit one that may require proof of vaccination.

The question is what course this recovery will take. While there is a clear suggestion that many travellers are just waiting for the green light so they can recommence budget holidays on the continent, via Ryanair, EasyJet and the like, many are choosing a different route from their norm.

A new report by Euromonitor International, ‘Top Countries for Sustainable Tourism’, revealed that just over two thirds of consumers globally “want to have a positive impact on the environment through their daily actions in 2021.”

The report takes into account a number of factors, including environmental, social and economic sustainability, in addition to the demand for sustainable tourism.

However, “only 55% of travel businesses implemented some form of sustainability strategy,” continued the report. This compares with 70% of companies within the consumer

packaged goods (CPG) sector.

There appears to be a clear dichotomy between the types of responsible travel experiences that many tourists want and those actually being offered by most travel providers.

“Businesses need to resist chasing short-term volumes and focus on the long-term, value driven strategies for a sustainable recovery,” says the report.

On the back foot

According to the data from Euromonitor, the UK is lagging behind many of its European neighbours in sustainable tourism.

Sweden tops the Euromonitor list

Glocal tourism

At the moment staycations appear to remain in vogue, but as new countries are added to the green list we can expect more people travelling again. Some projections expect 2019 figures to be reached by 2022 or 2023.

Data provided by the UNWTO has Mark Bibby Ja revealed that 58% of founder of Trave travellers are placing a website for p more importance on who want to tra sustainable tourism that and imag creates a positive impact charitable.tr on the travel destination, so wrote Ciaran Wark in an begins article for Travel Begins at 40 on sustainable local tourism

About auth

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promotes the provinces of New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, to bring our readers Atlantic Canada Voices.

This is a series of articles showcasing local people working in these beautiful Canadian provinces, highlighting how they promote sustainable tourism and work within

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people over 40 Local voices on avel responsibly a global scale ginatively.

In the spirit of glocal ravel/traveltourism, Travel Begins at 40 has started working s-at-40

Karolien Brughmans/Unsplash

initiatives. This, he explained, is what we call glocal tourism.

Typically, such initiatives involve travellers booking tours run by local people that benefit local communities, helping tourist money stay within the country/community and fostering a more sustainable tourism sector.

It also enriches the customer experience.“You are much more likely to get something different and interesting through a local company than you are through a western brand,” Huw Owen, cofounder of Travel Local ackson is the told Wark. el Begins at 40,

local communities, and how the tourist can participate.

Hopefully, when international travel fully recommences it will be in a much more locally-driven rather than profit-orientated direction.

Perhaps you’re thinking about your first trip now? This sparsely populated, naturally beautiful region of Canada can be reached in around five hours and has plenty of sustainable experiences, so if you’re looking for a destination to ease you into international travel, it could be just the ticket.

By 2022 a tourism sector working to the benefit of the many rather than to the profits of the few could on its way to becoming a mainstream concept. Now that really is something to look forward to!

with Atlantic Canada, the tourism authority that

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BANFF SUNSHINE VILLAGE

Get to know...

ALBERTA

Eddie Wong/Pixabay

Alberta Edmonton

ER CROSS COUNTRY SKIING, JASP

Jasper

Banff

Alberta transforms in the winter, you can walk over the trapped bubbles of icy lakes and explore canyons fringed by frozen waterfalls. The reliable, powdery snow is legendary and Rockies resorts for skiing and snowboarding include Marmot Basin in Jasper and Sunshine Village in Banff. There are plenty of winter sports off the piste – try ice skating, snowshoeing, fat biking, ice climbing or dog sledding.

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CANADA’S BADLANDS

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Winter wonders

Alberta has fascinating culture and history to uncover. Head to the canyons, coulees and wind-whipped hoodoos of the Badlands and the Royal Tyrrell Museum to see the 40 dinosaur skeletons found there, or Dinosaur Provincial Park where you can dig for your own fossils. Alberta’s First Nations, Métis and Inuit people have lived in the province for thousands of years, visit Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump to see how the Blackfoot people hunted or Writing on Stone Provincial Park to see their story told in 4,000 year-old rock art.

Soak up Alberta’s Wild West culture and stay at a working ranch like the Bar Diamond Guest Ranch where you can ride old wagon trails and round up cattle.

RIDE WESTERN STYLE

Priscilla Du Pre

This vast, rugged Canadian province is the ultimate place for adventurers and lovers of the great outdoors. But its varied landscapes also have plenty for history and culture geeks – from cowboy culture in the Rockies to dinosaur graves in the Badlands – plus two cosmopolitan cities.

Cowboys, Indians& dinosaurs

Brody Taylor/Pixabay

What is it all about?

Calgary

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EDMONTON

FAIRMONT BANFF SPRINGS

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And another thing Don’t forget these lesserknown mountain destinations in Alberta...

City stuff

Waterton Lakes National Park The smallest of the Rockies national parks, Waterton is no less epic. Come here to relax around the lake or take a canoe tour, hike the peaks and gaze at waterfalls and the Red Rock Canyon. It’s also home to the famously picturesque Prince of Wales hotel, located on a lonely lakeside bluff.

TOOL SHED BREWERY, CALGARY

Canmore and the Kananaskis Canmore is a charming mountain town with a surprisingly top-notch food scene and it is the jumping off point for the Kananaskis Valley, a haven for hiking, biking and cross country skiing.

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On the east of the Canadian Rockies, Banff and Jasper National Parks are both designated UNESCO World Heritage sites for their beauty and geological significance. Connected by the epic Icefields Parkway road passing breath-taking peaks and ice blue lakes, both are home to small, relaxed and friendly towns – bases for mountain adventures.

To get a sense of the scale and grandeur, the Banff Gondola rides to the top of Sulphur Mountain for bird’seye views of six mountain ranges and a Summit Walk for those who dare. In Jasper, the Glacier Skywalk is built into the rock with a glass floor that juts over the Sunwapta Valley’s mountains and glaciers.

There are a huge choice of summer activities in the parks – kayaking, paddle boarding and boating on the lakes and hiking, biking and horse riding along various trails. Visitors might be lucky enough to spot wildlife including bears, moose, bison, elk, bighorn sheep and perhaps even wolves or cougars.

Edmonton is home to North

BANFF’S HOT SPRINGS

America’s largest urban parkland, with over 150km of trails in the city It was Banff’s natural hot springs that drew people there 100 years ago and people still soak in them, breathing in the pine-scented air. A more modern take is the Nordic Spa in Kananaskis, with its hot pools, saunas and heated hammocks admidst alpine forest. Luxury resorts like the Fairmont Lake Louise and the Rimrock in Banff also offer pampering packages.

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And relax…

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Twin parks with peaks

Noel Hendrickson

Edmonton and Calgary, are more than gateways to the wilds. Attractions range from the 360-degree observation deck on top of the Calgary Tower to Edmonton’s Royal Alberta Museum. Explore cool neighbourhoods like Edmonton’s bohemian Old Strathcona or Calgary’s East village, where hip cafes, music venues and galleries fill old warehouses. Alberta Food Tours covers both cities, leading a grazing mission around the best eateries, artisan markets and breweries.

Nile cruise

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Jewels of the Nile A cruise on the River Nile is a journey back in time, to the myth and magic of ancient Egypt and the glamorous age of travel captured by Agatha Christie, says Laura Gelder

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Cairo

River Nile

Luxor Aswan

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ight falls fast on the Nile. By day the river is like an uncoiled snake resting in the desert and the high sun is inescapable, glancing off the white sails of the feluccas and gleaming cruise ships and throwing the ancient carvings of every temple into stark relief. As the sun dips the desert turns rose-gold, the river becomes mercury, temples fill with shadows and statues appear almost alive.

I had so many expectations of what a Nile cruise would be like but I didn’t expect my romantic Agatha Christie-influenced notions to be so on the money. Having checked into Abercrombie & Kent’s sleek and spotless Sanctuary Sun Boat III, I join a group of fellow cruisers for a shopping trip to Aswan’s hectic souk in search of spices.

Salesmen tempt us at every turn with everything from cotton shirts to scarab beetle trinkets, as we weave our way past stalls piled high with lamps, leather sandals, scarves, pottery, wooden souvenirs and woven baskets.

We push on to the spice market and fall under the spell of one of the sellers there, who takes us energetically through his mounds of colourful wares, making us smell snapped cinnamon, rub rose buds between our palms and taste the local desert-baked peanuts. No one asks about the pile marked ‘viagra’, which looks a bit like dried porcini mushrooms. I leave with stuffed bags of cumin and saffron.

We must hurry to reach The Old Cataract Hotel in time for sunset. Agatha Christie’s famous novel Death on the Nile featured this grand hotel and she stayed here many-a time.

It was built by Thomas Cook and its opulent interior is evocative of a time when travel was truly exotic. The decor is part Agatha Christie part One Thousand and One Nights, mixing wood-panelled lounges, leather armchairs and antique telephones in alcoves with starcut Aladdin-style lamps, exquisite Arabic fretwork and heavy patterned carpets.

Under the mosque-like dome of the grand dining room, guests including Winston Churchill and Tsar Nicholas II have sat. It

As our fez-wearing waiter sets down a tray of gin and tonics the call to prayer echoes from a distant muezzin and white-sailed feluccas slip silently through the water .

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could hold hundreds but only a handful are dining under its enchanted ceiling tonight.

On the terrace I sink into a wicker armchair and watch a timeless scene unfold as the sun sets, framed by palm trees ruffling in the breeze. We’re looking over Elephantine Island where the small houses of a Nubian village twinkle across the water. Beyond are the sand dunes, the undulating curves more pronounced by the gathering shade. As our fez-wearing waiter sets down a tray of gin and tonics, ice cubes chinking softly, the call to prayer echoes from a distant muezzin and below the white-sailed feluccas slip silently through the water. We stay until the desert fades to black.

All-aboard

Back on board, cold towels and even colder cocktails await, followed by a sumptuous dinner. The yacht only hosts 36 guests and its décor is between the 1920s and 1930s, sporting cream walls with dark wood pillars and teak and rattan furniture. I fall asleep quickly, cossetted in my four-poster bed.

The next morning we catch a motorboat to the peaceful island of Agilkia and the temple of Isis, which was moved from the neighbouring island of Philae in the 1970s to rescue it from floods causes by the nearby dam. The early morning heat is still searing but we have the complex to ourselves as we pass through towering gates bearing the carvings of the falcon-headed god Horus – son of Isis – and wander shaded cloisters topped with statues of the cow goddess Hathour. Isis was one of the last of the ancient Egyptian gods to still be worshipped and her cult spread as far as Britain and Afghanistan.

Re-joining the ship, we motor slowly north.

The Nile is lined with a fertile strip of green, where farmers and their children are tending to buffalo, but beyond is desert. Like most Nile cruises, we drift leisurely from temple to tomb; east bank to west bank. The Egyptians believed the sun represented the cycle of life, so they built their temples where the sun rose and laid their dead to rest where it set.

My imagination is captured by Kom Ombo, a temple dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek.

We’re told it was discovered with its cellars stuffed with the mummified remains of this revered and feared reptile and go to see the swaddled beasts in its museum. Much of the temple has been destroyed by earthquakes or humans but carvings remain which are thought to be among the first depictions of medical and surgical instruments, like

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scalpels, forceps and medicine – huge buffet of barbequed meat and proving how advanced the ancient fish with crisp salads and side dishes Egyptians were. like aubergine stew, followed by an Our local guide is not just unavoidable dessert selection. incredibly knowledgeable but, like all I stay up to watch as we pass Abercrombie & Kent’s guides here, through a lock at around midnight a qualified Egyptologist. and then retire to bed, lying in George (a Coptic the dark and watching the Christian) patiently neon lights of unknown attempts to give us towns sweep by. a snap shot of a civilisation which Fact or fiction?

The World Tourism Association ruled for a mind As the trip goes for Culture and Heritage (WTACH) seeks to protect and boggling 3,000 on the gods and preserve cultural heritage years and whose their triumphs and assets via responsible and remnants still stand tragedies become sustainable tourism thousands of years as real as the kings wtach.org later. “This, oh this isn’t and queens, and the that old,” he says with a line between reality and dismissive wave at one point. legend becomes blurred. The “about 2,300 years.” sky goddess Nut, always pictured On board, the chilled towels, beers hugging the earth in a yoga-style and bowls of peanuts keep coming if pose, seems as plausible as Queen you want them to. The top deck has Hapshepsut and her mortuary day beds swathed in white cotton temple. and a cooling plunge pool. Lunch Lined with almost perfect statues is served on the rear deck and is a in her image, from a distance it

Guardians of history

looks like a modern luxury hotel, its vastness dwarfed by the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari. Inside, paintings of fish, monkeys, big cats and giraffes are still incredibly vivid after 3,500 years.

They are evidence that Hapshepsut traded with the exotic Land of Punt, whose exact location is still debated by historians, though theories include Eritrea and Ethiopia.

No photos are allowed in the deep tombs under the Valley of the Kings.

The corridors that lead to the burial chambers are also painted vividly with blue, ochre, green and red, telling stories of various reigns.

It’s Tutankhamun’s resting place which gives me the biggest shivers, not because of its beauty – it was never finished because he died so suddenly – but because of the story of its discovery. Howard Carter was days from the end of his fruitless five-year search for the young pharaoh’s tomb, when a water boy – the son of a grave robber – ran to tell him he’d found a stone. The

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stone was a step and as more were excavated they led to the door of a tomb. The story goes that as Carter peered through a hole he’d made in the door, his candle guttered from the air escaping the chamber and his companion asked: “Can you see anything?.” As Carter’s eyes became accustomed to the dark he saw the gleam of gold within and replied: “Yes, wonderful things.”

The queen who could

In the colossal temple complex of Karnak it’s not the statues of Ramses II, the towering columns, or the vast manmade lake that impress on me most, but the desecrated faces of Hapshepsut. I’ve come to admire this ambitious queen, who dressed like a king since female XXXXX

MORTUARY TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT

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rulers weren’t the done thing. As her stepson was too young for power she was made regent but evidently she enjoyed it because after three years she made herself Pharaoh and ruled for two decades. After she died her stepson, jealous of being kept from the throne by her, began a campaign to erase her from history and was successful for almost 3,000 years. But you can’t keep a good woman down and modern scholars eventually rediscovered her.

From Karnak we head into town following the Avenue of the Sphinxes - once an unbroken line of around 1,350 human-headed lions connecting Karnak and Luxor. After a puff on some shisha and a sip of grainy coffee in an alleyway cafe, the fiery sun has sunk below the horizon and by the time we reach Luxor Temple, dodging skinny horses and their carts, it’s pitch black.

Perhaps it would have been just another temple if it was daytime, but at night the lights animate the statues, throw dramatic shadows on the hundreds of columns and imbue the whole scene with extra mysticism, despite the modern city sounds penetrating the walls.

The layers of history are tangible ancient Greek graffiti slathered over Egytian reliefs and a modern-day mosque lit with fairylights at the

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centre of the temple.

Back on board, the last night is pure Agatha Christie, as we all don traditional gallibayas for the grand final dinner. It’s topped off with a giant baked Alaska in the shape of the pyramids, carried in by our beaming chefs to a standing ovation, and entertainment from a belly dancer and a whirling dervish. As the G&Ts sink in, joining in is inevitable.

I step ashore thankful that there was no death on the Nile but sad to be leaving this fairytale world.

The trip has at times felt as fast as a whirling dervish, but then everything feels like a blur amongst the ruins of such a long-standing civilisation.

A Nile cruise barely scratches the surface of Egypt, but it’s a start and a sumptuous one at that.

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FUTURE TRAVEL WRITERS This February, Charitable Travel’s partner, Girl About Travel Club, ran a children’s travel writing competition designed to inspire kids and offer fraught parents some home schooling ideas for the last few weeks of lockdown 3.0.

Charitable Traveller’s editor, Laura Gelder, was delighted to judge the competition's two age categories: five to nine years, and 10 to 13 years. Both were given the brief to write about their best holiday memory and there were entries covering everything from Sri Lanka to Scarborough, Crete to the Caribbean. The winner of the 10-13 category was Abigail Stirk, aged 10, and part of her prize was to be published right here in Charitable Traveller. We hope you enjoy her tale of partying in St. Lucia as much as we did!

THE JUDGE'S COMMENT: "This story instantly transports the reader to the Caribbean, taking you on a journey from morning to night which is full of atmosphere.

Abigail brings the story alive with her vivid descriptions that draw on the senses: the feel of a fresh breeze on the balcony, the shimmering colours of the carnival costumes and the booming sound of the music. You really get a sense of the destination as well as Abigail's personal take on experiencing a totally different culture."

Party at the Carnival

BY ABIGAIL STIRK It was another hot and humid day in St. Lucia, the Caribbean island that my grandparents had made their home. We had travelled to visit them and were going to be staying with them in their island home for the whole of the summer holidays.

I woke up early, with a growing sense of excitement. Clambering out of my bed, I opened the door of the bedroom I was sharing with my younger sister and felt a draft of cool air come in from the open balcony doors. Through the doors I could see my grandparents sitting on the sofa outside and something glittery sitting in my grandmother's lap caught my eye. My grandma saw me and came to meet me. She handed me the glittery creation which turned out to be a sparkly, silver cropped top and a matching bright blue sparkly skirt and told me to go and try it on because today me and my sister were going to be part of the annual St. Lucia carnival! I was so excited and couldn't believe that I had the chance to take part in a real carnival parade, I couldn't wait!

The outfit fitted perfectly and, after changing, my grandma did my hair in braids.

We took the short drive down to the village centre, where lots of other children were gathering and getting ready and I waited to be given the final pieceto my carnival outfit, a huge marlin fish shoulder piece.

It wasn't long before the music started playing from huge speakers set up on the street and the village square became busy with lots of people in glittery clothing and sparkling sea creature costumes. As you might have guessed, the theme was tropical ocean!

Along with my younger sister, I was a marlin Fish. The marlin Fish costume was beautiful and decorated in amazing shades of blue and teal and embellished with intricate patterns of sequins and plastic jewels and I was delighted when I was told I'd be able to keep it afterwards so that I could take it home to show my friends, even though I wasn't sure I'd be able to fit it into my suitcase!

As we approached the parade start time I looked up at my costume and my sparkly marlin fish smiled down at me, reflecting the rays of the hot Caribbean sun. In preparation for the parade we were given some food and drinks and this is when I met my new friend, Aisha. Aisha was also dressed as a marlin fish like me and we both complemented each other on our outfits and laughed that we were matching! I asked Aisha how old she was and where she lived and we began to talk about our different schools and cultures.

Aisha told me that she was nine and lived in the village. I shared some of my sweets with her and then we took a picture so that we could remember meeting each other on this amazing day.

Moments later, the music bus arrived. This was a huge black double decker bus with music booming from the speakers above. The music was tropical, original St. Lucian carnival music, full of upbeat rhythms. We started the parade by lining up next to each other in different sections. We became a long, beautiful rainbow of sea creatures from fish to dolphins to sea shells, you name it, we had it!

The sun shone down and the music filled my ears with happiness. The St. Lucian people danced differently to me but I quickly started to pick up on their moves, mixing our two different styles of dance together. It was a day to remember and one that I don't think I'll ever forget.

The hours of parading around the village flew by so fast and before I knew it the carnival parade came to an end. We all celebrated the end of the parade with fried chicken and juice before I said my goodbyes to Aisha. We had a big hug and she waved at me as I headed home, leaving the adults to enjoy the carnival celebrations into the night. I am forever grateful that I got to experience this amazing day and I will never forget the St. Lucian Carnival of 2019.

Top ten

LUXURY PORTUGUESE RESORTS

Charitable Travel’s luxury expert Lizzi Trimble shares her pick of the most sumptuous resorts in Portugal, Madeira and the Azores

Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort Lizzi says: “This new resort is the first Anantara property in Europe. It offers luxurious accommodation – with families welcome – plus a divine spa and an Arnold Palmer-designed golf course next door.”

Located just outside the glamorous resort of Vilamoura, close to its beaches, marina and buzzing nightlife, this resort has 280 rooms and suites overlooking lush golf greens. You can drift between five pools and the Champagne cabanas or head to the Mediterranean-Asian spa for some pampering. Golfers can spend their days at the three adjacent golf courses, including the Victoria where the Portugal Masters are held. A dine around scheme lets you eat on-site or at one of the partner restaurants, like the trendy Purobeach Vilamour club with its DJs and day beds. Meanwhile, parents can take advantage of a kids’ club.

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The Belmond Reid’s Palace Lizzi says: “This hotel, the Grand Dame of Madeira, needs no introduction.

Elegance and sophistication, with more than a touch of glamour, are its hallmarks.”

Until 1964 you could only reach this resort by sea and you’d be carried up the rocky cliffs by hammock. It’s a traditional hotel with 158 rooms and suites, but the décor is light and fresh.

Choose between four restaurants, including an Italian and the Michelin-star William Restaurant, plus an afternoon tea terrace and cocktail bar.

Facilities include three pools (two heated and one saltwater) tennis courts and a spa which is set amongst the gorgeous gardens that are bursting with tropical flowers.

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Ten luxury portuguese resorts

The Cliff Bay Lizzi says: “Perched on a cliff top with wonderful views over Madeira’s Bay of Funchal, this hotel is renowned for its beautiful tiered gardens.”

Though located up on the cliffs with a spectacular pool, The Cliff Bay has direct access to the sea via its pier plus a salt-water pool and kids’ pool. There’s a great choice of places to eat – various themed world cuisine nights in the Rose Garden, The Blue Lagoon restaurant next to the sea and the two-Michelinstar Il Gallo d’Oro restaurant. The spa offers ESPA treatments, a Turkish steam bath, Jacuzzi, sauna and gym. A free bus can whisk you into Funchal in five minutes.

Douro41 Lizzi says: “A contemporary boutique hotel on the Douro River with lovely views. A panoramic indoor pool, outdoor infinity pool, hydrotherapy circuit and gorgeous spa make it a hit with those looking to pamper.”

This 61-room minimalist hotel has a sharp modern exterior and soft neutrals within. Douro41 is a 45-minute drive from Porto and its design is based on the terraced fields that characterise the area. It has a gym, movie theatre, games room, library and two restaurants serving regional delicacies and wood-fired pizza. Take a yoga class, tour the vineyards or rent a kayak.

Hotel Infante Sagres Lizzi says: “A sumptuous historical hotel in the centre of Porto and a great base for exploring the city’s colourful buildings, cafes and restaurants.”

Located in the heart of Porto’s UNESCO World Heritage area, this striking 85-room hotel was built in the 1950s but resembles a 19th century manor house, with grand wrought iron staircases, stained glass windows, crystal chandeliers and antique chairs, plus some modern and Moorish touches.

The Vogue Café and Bar serves modern European cuisine with cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Hotel Quinta Do Lago Lizzi says: “Set amidst 2,000 acres of pine forests and lagoons in the Ria Formosa Nature Park, this seaside hotel is for nature lovers.”

With magnificent views over the estuary and the sea, this 132-room hotel has access to several golf courses (four championship standard), as well as scenic bird-watching, nature trails and a beach.

Facilities include several pools; a gym and tennis courts; a kids’ club and playground; a spa with a sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi and massage treatments and three restaurant and two bars.

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Santa Barbara Eco Beach Resort Lizzi says: “Looking down on a lovely beach, this eco resort has just 30 contemporary rooms.”

Between a black sand beach and the rolling hills of the Azores’ biggest island, São Miguel, this resort has a modern luxury vibe. Its pool and low-lying buildings blend into the landscape, offering 14 studios, seven one-bed villas and nine two-bed villas.

An organic farm means farm-to-fork fare but with exotic Asian flavours. The wellness centre offers spa treatments, alternative therapies and yoga.

Six Senses Douro Valley Lizzi says: “An incredible setting in the UNESCO World Heritage Douro Valley, surrounded by ancient vineyards. It’s perfect for foodies and wine lovers.”

Near the baroque town of Lamego, this 57-room resort sits on a river bend opposite terraced vineyards. It’s a 19th century terracotta-roofed manor with modern décor sporting local touches. The hotel’s organic garden provides ingredients for the holistic spa treatments as well as the restaurant. There is a saltwater pool, ‘wine library’, gym and yoga/Pilates pavilion.

Terra Nostra Garden Hotel Lizzi says: “Being part of Azores’ famous Terra Nostra Gardens, guests can enjoy the natural thermal hot springs and nature walks.”

Also on São Miguel, this hotel is at the centre of the island’s geothermal activity so you can slip into a bubbling hot spring before breakfast. It’s only a 40-minute walk from the village of Furnas with its picturesque lake and geothermal cooking holes.

With modern but traditional décor, it has plush and spacious rooms, a large indoor pool and spa area with massage rooms and a renowned restaurant serving up the famous local stew.

Vila Vita Park Lizzi says: “This well-established five-star family hotel in the Algarve has excellent accommodation and facilities to keep the kids entertained.”

Located conveniently at the centre of the Algarve’s dramatic rocky coast, this 170-room whitewashed Moorish-style resort is built over 50 acres of gardens but close to two beautiful beaches.

Accommodation caters for couples as well as big families, with villas, apartments, rooms and suites. There are impressive facilities for sports including tennis, football and yoga, plus bicycle rental, a spa, children’s clubs and playgrounds and ten restaurants, ranging from informal family affairs to two Michelin-star restaurants.

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DEVILS HAVE

TRAINS

BEEN BORN IN

New Colorado route for Rocky Mountaineer

THE WILD IN MAINLAND

The Rockies to the Red Rocks route is a two-day

AUSTRALIA FOR

rail journey between Denver in Colorado,

THE FIRST TIME IN 3,000 YEARS! THE LITTLE DEVILS ARE DOING WELL AT BARRINGTON WILDLIFE

and Moab in Utah, NEW HOTEL

THE ROOSTER OPENS IN ANTIPAROS Opening its door in Greece this June, The Rooster is a hotel that embraces the concept of ‘slow living’ through sustainability, organic food, wellness, learning and fun. Guests can visit the hotel’s organic farm and learn to cook or relax on the beach. Accommodation

SANCTUARY

consists of three suites and two villas.

with an overnight stay in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. There will be a preview season of 40 departures across ten weeks between August and October this year, before the main season will run from April to October in 2022.

DESTINATION NEWS

Channel Islands ready for visitors The Islands of Guernsey – which also includes

GALAPAGOS

Rewilding project Re:wild, a global conservation charity co-founded by actor Leonardo Di Caprio, has announced $43 million of funding towards an ambitious rewilding project in the Galápagos Islands.

The project aims to protect its fragile ecosystem and

Alderney, Sark and Herm – are preparing to remove all testing and selfisolation requirements for visitors from the UK and other parts of the British Isles from July 1. This includes UK visitors who have not had a COVID-19 vaccine.

The Islands will then

reintroduce 13 locally extinct

move to a ‘traffic light’

species, including the Floreana

system for travel which

mockingbird, one of the rarest birds in the world.

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will closely align to the UK’s own rules.

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Global good news

A CLOSER LOOK AT...

TRAFFIC LIGHT TRAVEL Overseas travel is permitted, with guidance on how through a travel traffic light system. Read on for a crash course and a little inspiration for some achievable holidays

The UK government’s traffic light system means it can put countries under one of three categories, depending on the risk they pose of infecting travellers with COVID-19. Each category has varying measures that travellers will have to abide by at the border.

All travellers leaving the country are required to fill in a passenger locator form, provide a valid notification of a negative test result prior to travel and take a PCR test on day two after their arrival home.

WHAT NOW? The lists were released on May 17 and will be revised every three weeks but there is now a ‘green watchlist’ to identify the countries at risk of moving from green to amber, aimed to help travellers be better prepared.

There are just 12 countries on the initial green list, which was published on May 17. Popular Portugal is on there as well as Gibraltar and Iceland, but sadly other favourites, like Spain, Greece, France and the U.S. did not make the list.

It’s worth remembering that each country has its own rules in place and you should check what they are before booking. For instance, Australia and New Zealand are not yet accepting British tourists, meaning these countries are effectively a no-go for holidays right now.

The Falkland Islands, South Georgia and St. Helena are remote islands that usually require transiting through another country, such as Argentina or South Africa, which are not on the green list.

RED - If you arrive home from

AMBER - If you’re returning from

GREEN -

a high-risk red country, or have

an amber country, or have transited

If you’re

transited through one, you will have

through one, you will be required

returning from

to quarantine in a government-

to isolate at home for 10 days and

a country on the

approved facility for 10 days (costing

take a PCR test on days two and

green list, those

£1,750 per person) and pass a PCR

eight. You can test-to-release on

that the government

test on days two and eight. There

day five and end your quarantine

has deemed as posing the lowest

is no test to release option. The

immediately if you are negative. The

risk, you will not be required to

government strongly advises no

government has urged people not

quarantine on your return.

travel to red zones but it’s not illegal.

to visit amber countries for leisure.

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Global good news

AND THE GOOD NEWS? You can go on holiday and many people

ONE MORE THING...

already have! The golden sands of the Algarve are Portugal’s most famous destination but there are plenty of gorgeous beaches on the Atlantic coast too. Lisbon and Porto are firm favourites for city breakers, who go to soak up the architecture and feast on seafood and custard tarts. Cruises and hotels on the Douro River are recommended for wine lovers who can tour the vineyards. And if you don’t mind the longer flights, there’s always the Atlantic isle of Madeira with its black sand beaches, botanical gardens and heavenly hiking; or the volcanic peaks, blue lakes and hot springs of the Azores islands – and both are great for watersports.

Gibraltar might be a tiny part of Spain but it packs in tonnes of historical sights, a beguiling mix of British and Spanish culture and some dramatic scenery home to cheeky monkeys.

If you crave nature and adventure over hot weather, then Iceland or the Faroe Islands are a great choice. The former is famous for its cinematic landscapes carved from volcanic activity– with bubbling lagoons, gushing geysers and bubbling mud pots. The Faroes (located between Scotland and Iceland) are no less epic, with dramatic fjords, sweeping hill country and a wild, rocky coast. Both are home to incredible wildlife – like puffins, wild horses and whales – and fascinating cultures forged from the hardy climate up there..

At the time of going to press the conflict between Israel and Palestine had ceased but tensions were still high. We recommend you check the government’s latest advice before you book. Israel offers impressive religious, cultural and heritage sites in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and other cities, as well as Mediterranean and Red Sea beaches and unique experiences and sights like floating in the Dead Sea or exploring the ancient

If you have any questions, please contact Charitable Travel’s knowledgeable team.

Keep a close eye on the government website’s travel guidance (gov.uk) and keep your fingers crossed that more countries will be added to the green list from June 7 and beyond.

GREEN LIST

• • • • • • • • • •

Australia New Zealand Singapore Brunei Iceland Faroe Islands Gibraltar Falkland Islands Israel and Jerusalem South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands • Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha • Portugal, including the Azores and Madeira

fortress of Masada in the Negev Desert.

If you’re up for long-haul, Singapore is a small city state but it packs a punch with its world-class family-friendly attractions. You’ll find a cultural melting pot, with diverse dining in its various districts like Little India and Chinatown.

Families can explore its famous zoo after dark on a night safari, or get their kicks in a theme park like Universal Studios. There are beautiful beaches and gorgeous green spaces as well as bustling markets and malls.

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Global good news

FUTURE TRAVEL

BLIMPS are back!

A UK-based company, Hybrid Air Vehicles, has announced it hopes to offer travel routes via blimp up to a range of 640 miles from 2025.

The 100-seater airships will at first use electric and combustion engines but will be carbon neutral by 2030.

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CONSERVATION

THE NEW BIG FIVE Now used in safari vernacular, the term ‘big five’ was originally coined by hunters to describe the most challenging animals to kill. This year more than 250 photographers, conservationists and wildlife charities came together to vote for a new big five that they most wanted to shoot – with a camera, not a gun – and the results have been announced. The elephant, lion, polar bear, gorilla and tiger are the chosen species and all are listed as either critically endangered, endangered or vulnerable. The New Big 5 project hopes the publicity will help to protect these animals for future generations.

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There’s a lot of lip service in the hospitality industry. A lot of ‘we endeavour’ to do this.

And ‘we aim’ to do that. But there’s also a lot of good, and game-changing going on. And it’s happening in remote places in the hands of small brands who are showing the rest of us how it’s done.

One of those is SALT, whose first hotel, SALT of Palmar in Mauritius, was even awarded Brand of the Year by the know-their-eco-stuff judges of the Positive Luxury Awards.

Being a Positive Luxury brand is a sign that you’re doing right by the world while you offer it a high-quality product. It means the brand has met the highest standards of innovation and

Charitable.Travel/salt

environmental performance. And that it’s a star of the global culture shift towards a sustainable economy. Winning one of these awards is something of which to be next-level proud.

And SALT is proud plus some. It’s on a mission to operate hotels differently and help people take more positive travel actions, and this award proves it’s no pipedream.

Luxury doesn’t have to mean that you have to go without. Eco can be beautiful. Thoughtful can be stunning. And responsible has never been so desirable.

So, it’s a well-deserved well done to all the good folk at SALT.

Here’s how SALT does it:

take-them-all-home toiletries in your bathroom. It’s just that they are not made of, or packaged in, plastic.

You still get your ice-cold water to stay hydrated under the tropical sun. It’s just that it didn’t arrive in single-use plastic.

It’s the island’s water, purified by Nordaq Fresh filters (which makes the world’s best tasting water, according to chefs with 161 Michelin stars between them).

This deliciousness is served in pretty reusable bottles.

The upshot is zero contribution to the 8 million pieces of plastic pollution that hit the ocean every day. That’s right, no single-use plastic here.

You still get want-to-

You still get tips on what’s good in the area. It’s just that those tips lead you not only to local places but to local people and the authentic experiences and skills they share with you.

You still get to eat from a global menu of incredible food made by seriously gifted chefs. It’s just that the ingredients haven’t been flown in.

SALT of Palmar’s chefs get more creative than that.

They take whatever’s in season on the island and run with it.

At a time when the biosphere is in crisis, it’s a brand that’s able to help people have a happy, guilt-free time. From-the-heart service meets on-point actions. It has answered the needs of some, broadened the horizons of others, and panned for the lifestyle gold that is transformational travel.

And it’s the result of living by the values of being simple, local, curious, and human.

They’ve demonstrated real change.

And they’ve created an alternative.

It’s an attitude, not a platitude. It’s a bit David and Goliath. It’s a lot higher consciousness.

And it’s the future of hospitality.

READY TO BOOK YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY? Whether you’re planning a UK staycation for a family reunion this summer, seeking a spot of winter-sun, an adventure packed tour or an idyllic tropical escape, book with confidence with Charitable Travel.

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Tell us which charity you would like to help. 5% of the price is donated at no extra cost

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For great offers, travel inspiration and advice and how we offer #TravelforGood:

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Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, Kent BR1 1LW ALL PACKAGE HOLIDAYS ARE ATOL AND TRUST PROTECTED.