American Board of Certified Haircolorists

Page 121

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PREPARING THE LEFT REAR QUADRANT

The left rear quadrant shall be bleached to a yellow stage with a one inch outgrowth. To achieve this, you may use foil, paper or plastic to keep the lightener the correct distance away from the scalp. When using foil, apply the bleach one inch from the scalp. It is suggested you do not attempt to prepare your mannequin between clients, you could become rushed and do a poor job.

10 Continue applying bleach and foils until the quadrant is completed. It is not unusual for hair to bleach in excess of four hours to reach pale yellow. Using excessive heat is not recommended, it could cause banding. Test the bleach you will be using on just one section to make certain it is not one of the bleaches that will creep and cause banding. When you test leave the bleach on for the full 4 hours. Bleach may not band in one hour, but may in 4 hours.

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Utilizing cotton to keep the bleach away from the scalp is not recommended. To bleach the hair to a yellow stage will take an excessive amount of time. Without the bleach being confined, it will dry out and require reapplication. This type of application will not produce a clean demarkation line. The time required for bleaching hair to a yellow stage is at least four hours. Exact times are impossible to predict because of the variety of bleaches. Remember bleach continue working as long as long as it remains moist.

12 This is an example of what would receive an excellent score. A consistent demarcation line, no banding or bleeding and the hair is left in excellent condition. It is impossible to bleach to this degree without porosity, but every attempt should be made to minimize the porosity. This is possible by taking thin sections and using NO heat.

Chapter 9 Mannequin and Swatch Preparation

131


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