The best in luxury rail travel
Hive of activity
The intriguing world of bees
The thrilling world of polo Drama with every stride
A head for history
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With plenty of sunshine to enjoy, summer is a hive of activity from the world of business through to the busy social season. This leads me to explore the intriguing world of bees (page 22) and their impact on our world in so many different ways – some of which may surprise you!
Our usual mix of lifestyle and business features throughout this issue of the magazine includes a closer look at UK property investment (page 36) from Andrew Ward, managing director of Solomon Investment Partners, while Alistair Muscat, CEO of Integra Private Wealth, outlines the potential impact of rising inflation and interest rates (page 52).
Away from the world of finance, learn more about the thrilling polo scene (page 66) and the opulent world of luxury rail travel (page 72), as well as insight into an investment market with a difference – classic cameras (page 46).
I hope you enjoy these features and more in our Summer 2023 issue.
Deborah Mills Chief Executive Officer Burlingtons Group Limited
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CEO Burlingtons Group (deborah.mills@burlingtons.group)
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Henry Mills
Head of Real Estate (henry.mills@burlingtons.realestate)
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Burlingtons magazine is published by CPL One
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Pick of this season’s luxury offerings
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What ties together a hairstyle from Chicago in the 1960s, the work of the Beatles, an opera, and the ancient Egyptians with our ethos and values at the Burlingtons Group? What else but the humble bumblebee!
Plan your visit to some of the top arts, cultural and sporting events this summer and autumn
Meet some of the rising stars who are making their mark in the world of architecture
Meet the Burlingtons team in Malta and London
Insight into the potential impact of rising inflation and interest rates
AFTER
Solomon Investment Partners advise on looking beyond London
Enjoy the long evenings of summer with a refreshing drink or two in London’s elegant garden bars
LUXURY
Experience a trip on one of the world’s best luxury rail journeys
How to avoid getting stung when renting out a property
Words: Andy Morris
1
THE THIN WHITE DUKE’S FAVOURITE RECORD PLAYER GETS AN UPGRADE David Bowie’s personal ‘radiofonografo’ sold for £257,000 in 2016. Save yourself more than £240,000 by investing in one of the new models in blue lacquer, recently showcased at the 2023 Salone del Mobile. From original designs by brothers Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni, these handsome turntable and twin speakers sets, from Brionvega, now come complete with wi-fi and bluetooth connectivity. We can confirm Station to Station sounds phenomenal on it.
£14,090. Brionvega.it
Matthew Williams took inspiration for Givenchy's new beachwear capsule collection from Hubert de Givenchy’s summer home in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Look out for Matrix-esque sunglasses, linen bikinis and ‘Marshmallow’ wedge sandals (as well as bucket hats and cargo ‘jorts’ for men). Our pick is this handcrafted rafta bag, a beach carry-all with leather handles, ripe for the Riviera.
£680.
Givenchy.com
Villa Palladio is, without question, the most exciting hotel on the planet right now, complete with glowing endorsements from Condé Nast Traveller and Travel + Leisure
Created by Swiss/Italian founder Barbara Miolini, together with Dutch designer Marie-Anne Oudejans and Indian painter Vikas Soni, it is 20 minutes outside the Pink City and feels like nothing less than Wes Anderson’s country retreat. A former hunting lodge for a noble family, it only has eight rooms (and one suite), so book your 2024 trip now to experience exquisite thalis, Tibetan spa treatments, palm-shaped pools, and the scent of sweet hibiscus.
From £334 per night. villa-palladio-jaipur.com
4
Having drawn inspiration from the natural world for more than 240 years, French high-jewellery specialist Chaumet is now celebrating the humble bumblebee, which has been everything from an imperial emblem of Napoleon to an icon of climate change. The insect-inspired designs use brilliant cut pavé diamonds, rose gold and up to 745 elements per precious item.
From £970. Chaumet.com
5
BRITISH SWIMWEAR HAS NEVER LOOKED BETTER
Since 2007, there has been no finer way of stepping out in a five-star resort than in some tailored Bulldog shorts from Orlebar Brown. Its latest collection, Flights of Fantasy, takes inspiration from exotic flora and fauna, complete with striking birdlife and elaborate paisley. In addition to its signature shorts, look out for new cotton-silk fabric versions of Orlebar Brown’s Sebastian polo shirt and towelling-style shorts. Wear from dawn till sundowners.
From £95 – £495. Orlebarbrown.com
Celebrating its 130th anniversary this year, gentleman’s outfitter Dunhill is embracing the modern age like never before. Not only has it just appointed new creative director Simon Holloway (ex-Purdey & Sons and Ralph Lauren Collection), but it has unveiled these Metropolitan trainers for summer. Perfect for a smarter city break, they are crafted from supple calf leather with a gold-embossed AD 1893 on one upper.
£575. Dunhill.com
Red-sole specialist Christian Louboutin discovered Melides by accident – and after an accident. Driving back from hospital after cutting himself badly, his car broke down in the picturesque town, and the French designer decided to establish a hotel there. Ten years later, you can finally experience his vision at Vermelho, in one of 13 rooms designed in the maximalist style by architect Madalena Caiado. Look for hand-painted tiles from Setúbal, sculptures of Neptune, 1960s Bollywood posters, and further tchotchkes from Louboutin’s travels worldwide.
From £352 per night, including breakfast. vermelhohotel.com
Bristol’s best hotel, the aptly-named The Bristol, now boasts a truly lovely cocktail bar, inspired by the one in the classic film Casablanca. In the heart of the harbour, a few doors down from the Arnolfini centre for contemporary arts, it offers a live pianist and delicious cocktails – try the Sweet Desire (with Rémy Martin 1738 and sweet vermouth) or the Usual Suspects (Eminente Reserva seven-year-old rum, cachaça, Chambord). Bonus: no white tuxedo jacket required.
From £166 for a ‘Weekend At Rick’s’. Doylecollection.com
The best-dressed character in hit TV show Succession is not one of the quarrelling, selfdestructive Roys, but rather Stewy Hosseini, played to thrilling effect by Arian Moayed. For the red carpet of the final season, Moayed wore a bespoke suit from LA label Amiri, but you can achieve a similar effect with its spring/summer ready-to-wear. Our favourite is the relaxed double-breasted blazer and double-pleated trousers in baby blue, made in Italy and available in the UK from department store Flannels.
£1,390 for the complete suit. flannels.com
THE CHICEST NEW ARRIVAL FOR YOUR CARRY-ON, COURTESY OF CHANEL
Mademoiselle Chanel was a true globetrotter, and introduced skincare and makeup in smaller sizes to fit inside an evening clutch – along with at least one pack of Gauloises cigarettes. Take inspiration with Chanel’s ‘Les Beiges’ collection in travel sizes, promising a radiant complexion ready for any time zone. And if you’re planning a staycation? Les Beiges Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream will give you the impression of having spent a weekend far from British shores.
From £32. chanel.com
■ 14 JULY-9 SEPTEMBER – BBC PROMS
This eight-week celebration of classical music features 72 events, covering a vast programme to suit every musical taste, from a Bollywood-themed prom to the soaring traditional notes of Elgar’s Pomp and Circumstance. Events will be hosted around the UK, but the majority will take place at the iconic Royal Albert Hall, in the heart of Kensington. Book a stay in a suite at the stunning Kensington Hotel, just a stone’s throw from the action.
■ 20 JULY-20 AUG – FIFA WOMEN’S WORLD CUP
The very best in women’s football will clash over the course of a month in Australia and New Zealand, battling it out to be crowned queens of the world. The action kicks off with co-hosts New Zealand taking on Norway at Eden Park.
■ 22-28 JULY – ROLEX FASTNET RACE
The 50th edition of the world’s largest offshore race will see an immense fleet complete the 695-nautical mile course from Cowes to Cherbourgen-Cotentin, via the Fastnet Rock off the southern tip of Ireland. Enjoy an outstanding view of the harbour in Cherbourg-en-Cotentin while dining on the freshest seafood at the Michelin starred Le Pily.
■ 19-23 JULY – RHS FLOWER SHOW TATTON PARK
Hot on the heels of the flamboyant floral displays at Chelsea and Hampton Court comes the stunning RHS Flower Show at Tatton Park in Cheshire. Make a week of it and book a stay in one of two luxurious signature suites at Manchester’s Stock Exchange Hotel.
■ 30 JULY – BELGIAN GRAND PRIX
The Spa is the next stop on the F1 circuit, as Belgium hosts its Grand Prix over 44 laps. Take advantage of a VIP ticket with pit-lane access and a gourmet lunch, with prices starting at £6,499 per person.
If Royal Ascot is the home of top hats and tails, Glorious Goodwood is all about Pimm’s and Panamas. A more laid-back horseracing festival than the Royal meeting, the action takes place on the rolling Sussex Downs, with sweeping views to the coast – on a clear day! Secure a private box to enjoy every moment of the action, as well as those memorable views.
Prepare for the colourful, the iconic, the provocative and the downright entertaining, as the Fringe Festival brings together performers from every walk of life and in every genre. Book your tickets to see the next rising star, then enjoy a luxurious stay in the dramatic Gothic splendour of The Witchery by the Castle.
The best athletes from around the globe will descend on Budapest this month for the 19th World Athletics Championship. ‘Witness the Wonder’, as the event’s strapline goes, then soak up the sights in this vibrant, cultural city. Book a stay at the boutique Aria Hotel, beside St Stephen’s Basilica, or simply enjoy a music-inspired cocktail in the hotel’s High Note Sky Bar, with panoramic views of the city.
See top-class tennis with a trip to New York to enjoy every moment of the final Grand Slam tournament of the year. Book a luxury suite to enjoy prime views and a bespoke menu of the very best in dining and drinking.
Known in some quarters as ‘the New Year’s Day of hunting’, the Glorious Twelfth marks the start of the red grouse shooting season. If you don’t have a local shoot to join, consider a commercial shoot offered by gunsonpegs.com, at locations in Scotland and North Yorkshire.
The 10th men’s Rugby World Cup kicks off at the Stade de France on Friday 8 September, returning to the same venue for the final on 28 October. Book a private Skybox in the Stade de France as France take on New Zealand in the opening game, with prices starting from €5,583 per person.
For the first time, the Ryder Cup will be played in Italy, taking place at the Marco Simone Golf & Country Club, just outside Rome. Book a prime view with a Premium Suite overlooking the 7th hole, or enjoy fine dining overlooking the 16th and 17th holes in the Founders Lounge.
In a series of sales, Sotheby’s offers a chance to buy musical history from the collection of the legendary Freddie Mercury. Bid for an autographed manuscript of working lyrics for Bohemian Rhapsody –estimated price of up to £1.2m –Mercury’s silk evening scarf, or the platinum single sales award for We Are The Champions, among much more.
The 6th Invictus Games will see more than 500 servicemen and women, who have been injured while in service, compete with each other in Düsseldorf, in a series of adaptive sports. Relax after a busy day of sporting action with dinner at the Michelin-starred Im Schiffchen. Chef Jean-Claude Bourgueil delivers creative French cuisine in a beautiful Baroque building on Kaiserwerther Markt.
Christie’s auction house in New York presents Rothschild Masterpieces, offering pieces dating back to the late 18th century. Items from the collection of Baron James de Rothschild and his wife and sons, from their lavish homes in Paris and at the Château de Ferrières, will come under the hammer. The collection includes maiolica from Renaissance Italy, silver and gilt sculptures, Old Masters, European furniture and tapestries, 17th-century jewellery, and so much more.
Champions are crowned and legends made in this highlight of the European horseracing season, staged at Longchamp on the outskirts of Paris. Book a stay in a luxurious suite at the five-star Saint James hotel, a 19th century château in the most exclusive district in Paris, or a serviced apartment in the villa next door. Enjoy world-class action at the races and then relax with dinner at Saint James’ Michelin star restaurant, Bellefeuille.
Visit the Royal Opera House at London’s Covent Garden to soak in Verdi’s masterpiece Rigoletto, the story of a hunchback jester at the court of the corrupt playboy Duke of Mantua. Book a pre-show table at nearby Frog by Adam Handling, or visit its glamorous Eve bar, below the main restaurant, to indulge in a creative cocktail.
What ties together a hairstyle from 1960s’ Chicago, the work of the Beatles, an opera, and the ancient Egyptians with our ethos and values at the Burlingtons Group? What else but the humble bumblebee!
Words: Deborah Mills
Being ‘busy as a bee’ is a well-used phrase, but I like to think it is very true of our industrious team here at Burlingtons. We thought, therefore, as summer bursts into life, that bees deserve their turn in the spotlight in this edition of our magazine.
These little chaps and chapesses represent the universal symbol of ethical virtues – diligence, sociability, wisdom and community. All are virtues to which we aspire at Burlingtons in the course of our work for you, our clients around the globe.
The subject of bees is even closer to my heart as my name, Deborah, means ‘bee’ in Hebrew. In honour of this, I plan to dress as the humble bumblebee when I take part in next year’s London Marathon for charity. Stay tuned for further updates on my training in the coming months!
So, aside from the connection with my name, why my focus on bees for this summer issue of Burlingtons Magazine? Indulge me for a moment, but I think there are intriguing parallels between these industrious insects and our own lives. Just as our clients come from a wide range of
backgrounds, did you know that there are more than 20,000 species of bee, ranging in size from 4cm to just 2mm? Whatever their size, each bee plays a key role in producing the rich diversity of flowers we enjoy today – each insect has its own, vital role to play. And just as our clients are based all around the world, there is no part of the globe –barring the icy wastes of the Antarctica – where a bee cannot be found.
Bees have a history every bit as rich and diverse as the human race, woven throughout many of our own myths and legends.
For example, in mythology across all continents, the honey bee was believed to be a sacred insect that bridged the natural world and the underworld.
In ancient Egypt, it was believed that Ra, the sun god, created the honey bee from his tears, so the humble bee was viewed as a messenger from the gods, communicating between the two worlds. Honey was so cherished that jars of the liquid gold were buried with deceased royalty. When Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered in 1922 by British archaeologist Howard Carter and his benefactor Lord Carnarvon, the 3,000-year-old honey placed in the king’s tomb – to keep him happy on his celestial journey to the afterlife –
was still edible. While that particular example may not sound the most tempting of treats, it does demonstrate the eternal shelf life of honey, because of it yielding an environment where bacteria cannot develop.
Of course, the Egyptians didn’t only treasure honey in death. This most versatile of substances was used on infected wounds and, if things did not work out from that medicinal application, it also played a part in the embalming process.
In Greek mythology, Melissa was portrayed as goddess of the bees – a well-deserved credit, as she was said to have discovered honey. However, it was probably the ancient Mayans who were among the first cultures to develop apicultural techniques for beekeeping and actually keep bees in their homes.
The modern hive was apparently ‘discovered’ by Lorenzo Langstroth,
Top: Napoleon had bees on his cloak, symbolising long life and hard work
Above: Bees in ancient Egyptian carvings
who calculated that bees liked to have a pathway bee space of about 6-8mm to go to and from the hive. That discovery is hailed as the start of modern beekeeping.
More famously, the bee was adopted by Napoleon Bonaparte as a symbol for him and his family, depicting long life and hard work.
Beekeeping has become a particularly profitable activity in New Zealand and Australia, where some of the most expensive honey in the world is produced from bees that thrive on the blooms of manuka trees. Such a delicacy comes with a hefty price tag – one UK retailer sells a 225g jar for £21, compared
with the price tag of just £1.60 for an ‘own brand’ jar weighing twice as much.
Manuka honey may get the headlines as a pricey treat, but the world’s most expensive liquid gold is currently the Turkish-produced Elvish honey. Produced by bees that live in a cave of spherical walls in north-eastern Turkey, the honey costs about £4,300 per kilo.
Away from such a rarefied product, the production of this delicious treat by the bee population is as important ecologically as it is for its taste. The well-publicised decline in the wild bee population has led to encouraging numbers of managed hives.
Bees and their product have not only been a factor in our diet for millennia; they have also been depicted in art for thousands of years. They
appear in rock carvings in Spain dating back to 8,000 BC, and could even be acknowledged as a major musical influence as well. No, really – it is said that the ‘drone’ music style popularised by the Beatles in Tomorrow Never Knows, from their iconic album Revolver, originated from old English words representing male bees.
Their influence pops up again in classical music too, with Flight of the Bumblebee an instantly recognisable work by Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov from his opera The Tale of Tsar Saltan, composed in 1899-1900.
Bees have even permeated fashion – hence Gucci adopting a bee design for its own brand. Perhaps the most famous example in past decades is the beehive hairdo; invented by Chicago stylist Margaret Vinci Heldt in 1960, it has since been sported by famous
singers such as Dusty Springfield and Amy Winehouse.
In literature, bees appear in Homer’s Hymn to Hermes, as well as in the works of Aristotle, Plato, Virgil, Seneca, Erasmus, Tolstoy and Shakespeare’s Henry V. In the latter, the bee colony is associated with the need for a successful king to organise his kingdom in the same way as an extremely efficient beehive – yet another pertinent metaphor for our work at Burlingtons.
In English folklore, there is a wellestablished household custom of ‘telling the bees’ of familial events, such as births, deaths and marriages. Indeed, it was an English tradition to give a piece of wedding cake or funeral biscuit to bees in the household hive, informing them of the names of the married couple or the deceased. After the death last year of Queen Elizabeth II, Royal Beekeeper John Chapple informed the royal bees of Buckingham Palace and Clarence House of her passing and the ascension of King Charles III, saying to them: ‘The mistress is dead, but don’t you go. Your master will be a good master to you.’
So, to bring this full circle, what can we learn from bees and apply to our own business? Perhaps the key message is that the influence of a relatively small number of hard workers can be felt worldwide. Teamwork and a strong sense of community can yield ‘liquid gold’ when we work together.
“Teamwork and a strong sense of community can yield ‘liquid gold’ when we work together”Above: A bracelet from Chaumet’s latest collection, featuring bees
We are pleased to announce that Burlingtons Group is organising a roadshow in early November, which will be delivered on the vibrant and historic island of Malta and in London, England, to present our full range of professional services to our valued clients and colleagues
The roadshow will start on Tuesday 7 November 2023 in Malta, at the Westin Dragonara Resort – a spectacular hotel standing apart on a natural peninsula fringed by the Mediterranean Sea – with an interactive conference that starts at 11am. At this forum, we will be presenting our full range of professional services from the following speakers:
Deborah Mills, chief executive officer of Burlingtons Group, will provide an overview of the group’s professional activities worldwide, the ground covered since its inception, and the group’s ambitions in the short term.
Paramjit Sehmi, head of the corporate and commercial department for Burlingtons Legal, will talk about some of the recent English law developments affecting M&A transactions, company secretarial requirements, and real estate ownership in the UK.
Peter Young, head of tax, will give a number of examples of core international tax structuring.
Edward le Favre, head of accounting and fiduciary, will discuss the impact of grey listing on the provision of professional services in a number of jurisdictions.
Alistair Muscat, chief executive officer of Integra Private Wealth, based in Sliema, Malta, will give an overview of the current markets, challenges and opportunities.
Henry Mills will conclude the forum with a presentation on our real-estate activities, current portfolio, plans for its future, and our private office.
l After each speaker presentation, guests will have an opportunity to ask any specific questions.
l At the end of the event, we will be hosting a buffet lunch with refreshments, so hosts and guests can mingle and talk in a more personal capacity.
l The balance of the week will be spent with specific targeted meetings, including Maltese-based corporate service providers, lawyers, bankers, accountants and other professional teams, culminating in a dinner on the Thursday evening.
l The Burlingtons team will then head to London to continue the roadshow.
l On Monday 11 November 2023, at our head offices at Stratford Place, close to Bond Street, we will hold a range of interactive seminars. The Tuesday and Wednesday will be reserved for one-to-one meetings with clients and colleagues, culminating in a champagne reception, to be held at our offices on the Thursday evening (6-9pm).
l If you would like to receive any further information concerning any of the events detailed above and would like to receive an invitation to the champagne reception or any of the seminars, please do not hesitate to contact Jordan D. Jordan of this office on jordan.jordan@burlingtons.group
l Further information will also be available through our upcoming autumn webinar to be held on Thursday 19 October 2023.
We look forward to meeting and greeting you all in the ensuing months.
Words: Rosemary Waugh
Reinier de Graaf’s latest book, architect, verb, opens with a question: ‘What makes good architecture?’ The Dutch author and architect – and expert provocateur of his own industry – goes on to add: ‘Ask any architect and you will likely get a lengthy exposé on the all-importance of his or her work, their passion matched only by the passionate indifference from society at large.’
The picture De Graaf goes on to paint is of a profession that finds itself in a sticky situation. Backdropped by the familiar hoard of gloomy real-world issues – climate change, human rights restrictions, and economic inequality – the creation of the built environment is both everybody’s and nobody’s business.
So where does that leave the generation of new, eager-eyed architects who have recently stepped through the new-build doorway to a career that can, literally, shape the entire world?
Rest assured, the future of our skylines is in safe hands. As De Graaf’s clever title suggests, ‘architect’ is less a label and more a ‘doing word’ – as we once called verbs in primary school. And Britain’s new-gen talent are certainly ‘do-ers’. From shaking up the nation’s most elite architectural institution to helping realise groundbreaking environmental solutions to the housing crisis, the architects featured here are unafraid to tackle the doom-list agenda and are prepared for the real graft involved in doing so.
Another thing they have in common is a distaste for ego. Their names are not – yet –splashed across the branding of new firms or headline projects. But these worker bees are names to know and – you never know – their handiwork might one day lead to a little less indifference from the man on the street.
Tasked with reshaping an industry and a landscape, Britain’s young architects are unafraid of good old-fashioned hard work
MUYIWA OKI
When Muyiwa Oki becomes the President of the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) in September 2023, he’ll be both the youngest and the first black person to do so. That’s notable enough, but the Nigerian-born and British-based architect’s election to the role was made more impressive by it being the result of a grassroots campaign by colleagues to give the top job to an early-career ‘worker’ like them.
Having been voted in by a younger cohort dissatisfied by working conditions and concerns about the climate crisis, Oki will be looked upon to grapple with some thorny subjects. However, his previous work for Grimshaw on the HS2 project and a much-maligned incinerator in North London suggest he’s pretty unperturbed by anything considered controversial.
Outside of the RIBA post, he’s a senior architectural manager at Mace. It’s not a job that would usually get you the RIBA presidency, but it does grant him the insider perspective needed to give the industry’s foundations a necessary shake-up. It’s a big job with plenty of pressure to boot, but he looks capable of delivering the new blueprint his contemporaries are looking for. Watch this space for how his influence spreads over the next decade.
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How do you solve a problem like the housing crisis? Agile Homes, the firm for which Sam Turner is a senior designer and architect, has a few ideas. The innovative co mpany, with offices in Bristol and Oxfordshire, is pioneering quick-to-build, low-carbon dwellings using materials including timber and straw. It’s also behind a house that is, essentially, flatpack.
Banish all images of post-IKEA meltdowns and the three little pigs’ housing problems though; this is a firm hellbent on making a difference now, and its solutions are fascinating (they’re also rather stylish). It all goes to make it the perfect home for Turner, who, outside of work, is the movement support coordinator for the Architects Climate Action Network.
‘The construction industry is responsible for an unfathomable consumption of resources, vast
quantities of waste and phenomenal greenhouse gas emissions,’ Turner says. ‘But it doesn’t have to be that way. As designers, the professional decisions we make can have a far more significant impact than our personal ones. We can nourish communities, build resilient, circular supply chains, and use healthy, carbon-capturing materials.’
Turner used a lockdown furlough period to revolutionise his career by working only on projects aligned with his personal values. He is hoping to now do the same within his chosen field. ‘The breadth of good things we are currently working on is mindblowing,’ he enthuses. ‘We can do better than being sustainable; we can pursue regenerative solutions that have a positive effect on multiple fronts.’
It’s this infectious enthusiasm that makes Turner’s future look (sustainably) bright.
Tom Foggin is another name-toknow architect putting climate change concerns at the centre of his work. The young architect is a director for RHP, where he also chairs the in-house Sustainability Group. This eco-conscious sensibility directly feeds into his recent major project, designing a new ‘Passivhaus’ for Lucy Cavendish College, Cambridge. For those unfamiliar with the name, Passivhaus is an international design standard combining comfortable living with low-energy use.
The Cambridge project saw the creation of a mixed-use space –mainly student accommodation –that is thoroughly modern in its ecological standards, while also being aesthetically complementary to the existing Edwardian and Victorian buildings nearby, in the West Cambridge conservation area.
For Foggin and his colleagues, blending the new with the old wasn’t a constraint, and instead provided them with ‘inspiration’.
He explains: ‘The building sits comfortably among its neighbours, but, on closer inspection, is distinct in its detailing and character. For example, corner windows, seldom flung in historic buildings, provide wonderful views to the college gardens.’
They also scored many beautiful and practical points via the clever use of red-hued clay tiles on the exterior. Yet, despite its success, Foggin has plans for a future in which this kind of thing shouldn’t be remarkable. ‘In an ideal future, there would be no such thing as “sustainable architecture” because all construction would meet the same high standards as today’s exemplar projects.’
Words: Kayleigh Dray
Innovative London-based designer Betty Owoo is a founding member of Patch, a multidisciplinary collective that creates spatial interventions and ephemeral events.
‘Our work carves out space for discussions on cultural identity, holding space, and migrant communities, and has been a meaningful creative outlet for us all,’ she says of the initiative.
Dubbed a rising star by the RIBA, Owoo has a dazzlingly bright future ahead of her –but she is also keen to use her platform to create ‘more space and opportunity for those from under-represented groups and marginalised backgrounds’.
One of only a few deaf architects in the UK, Chris Laing isn’t just an architectural designer: he is also an activist, the founder of Signstrokes, and will be establishing the Deaf Architecture Front later this year. ‘I am still figuring out my unique style, but I can see it balanced somewhere between being minimalist while, at the same time, making radical bold statements,’ he says. Laing has found that the deaf community is extremely under-represented within the architectural industry, which has presented him with his own unique challenges –largely around language barriers. However, he hopes that his own success will help break the cycle, not to mention facilitate engagement between the deaf community and the spatial and architecture practice industry.
SHAWN ADAMS
Shawn Adams has always known he wanted to be an architect, describing it as his ‘calling in life’. But he is just as passionate about helping others answer their own callings, as he is one of the founders of the Power Out of Restriction Collective.
The London-based social enterprise is ‘dedicated to the development of communities within the built environment and driving positive social change’. This means it’s every bit as famous for its Build The Way internship as it is for the vibrant installation it recently created at Carney’s Community youth centre in south-west London.
‘One of the greatest challenges is getting your name out there and being able to get projects,’ says Adams, who believes there is an urgent need for diversity of thought in the architecture and design industries.
AKIL SCAFE-SMITH, SETH AMANI SCAFE-SMITH, AND MELISSA HANIFF
Resolve is an interdisciplinary design collective launched by three pioneering creatives, Akil Scafe-Smith, Seth Amani Scafe-Smith and Melissa Haniff, which ‘combines architecture, engineering, technology and art to address social challenges’. Less focused on building buildings, the team at Resolve has already made headlines with its thought-provoking installations. ‘For us, design carries more than aesthetic value,’ says the Resolve team. ‘It is also a mechanism for political and socio-economic change.’
Away from the mainstream of architecture, there are a number of young architects and designers using their skills to create social change. Meet some of those making a name for themselves in this arena
We bring together 30 years of clinical expertise, the most advanced imaging technology and unparalleled client service to offer some of the world’s leading health assessments available today.
Whether you are considering a comprehensive assessment or have a particular area of concern, our team would be delighted to assist in designing the right program for you.
“The Echelon Health program easily outperforms the typical health screen. Why? Because its detailed assessments actually look under the surface to find out what’s really going on and what, if anything needs to be done to put it right.”
Tim Steiner OBE CEO, Ocado Plc
The World Leading Provider of Preventative Health Assessments.
Words: Andrew Ward, managing director, Solomon Investment Partners
For many years, London’s property market has drawn investors from all over the world. More recently, slow capital growth and relatively poor yields have resulted in the city falling out of the top UK rankings. This has prompted many investors to look further afield to explore what better options the UK might offer, and which investment models might provide the most rewarding opportunities in 2023 and beyond.
The good news is that developing a high-performing, diverse UK residential property portfolio is easier than you might think.
As a specialist adviser, we often hear our clients saying they regard property as an investment, not a full-time job. Typically, they have numerous other interests and aren’t seeking new careers as landlords; what they want is a ‘hands-free’ fully managed service that can be relied upon to deliver solid and inflation-beating rewards.
Such rewards are perfectly achievable over the medium and longer terms. UK residential property has an excellent record of delivering strong growth in both capital and rental values. Average house prices have risen by around 237 per cent since January 2000 (bit.ly/45FVehd), and rental gains have been similarly strong (bit.ly/3qhUCOt)
– in Q2 of 2023, rental indices have quoted annual growth figures of between nine and 12 per cent.
Capital growth has slowed significantly over recent quarters, but property investment has never been about short-term results, and the longer-term outlook remains positive. Intense demand, coupled with tightly constrained supply – a combination that has persisted for decades – has always maintained upward pressure on prices. With inflationary forces set to decline steadily in the second half of 2023,
according to the Bank of England, average disposable incomes are likely to improve. In time, the Bank of England is also likely to set a lower base rate of lending. Improved consumer spending power and lower mortgage rates have traditionally gone hand in hand with house-price growth, and we are already witnessing a resurgence in market activity, particularly in emerging UK markets (bit.ly/3ORUNdz).
One of the things clients say they most value about our property investment solution is our fully managed service.
We have built the business around a model that encompasses every aspect of building a property portfolio. That includes identifying the best-performing buy-to-let markets UK-wide, building relationships with trusted developers, negotiating favourable offmarket prices for investors, and facilitating the purchase process. We work with an expert panel of legal advisers (including Burlingtons) and mortgage brokers who know our developments well. They support our clients to make the purchase process as straightforward and hassle-free as possible.
We also offer a comprehensive rental management service that includes an assured gross rental return of up to eight per cent. This protects investors against rental void periods, so they can sit back and enjoy a regular monthly income, regardless of occupancy.
Our rental management partners can assume responsibility for all the routine tasks associated with marketing and managing rental properties. Operating nationwide, they enable investors to maintain portfolios that are spread across different cities and regions without having to become directly involved, and without having to engage with multiple agents or other suppliers.
Fundamentally, we operate as a bridge between investors
and developers. Developers pay our fees, and we work with a number of them across the UK. Accordingly, we maintain an extensive database of residential properties, many of them off-plan and offered to investors at specially negotiated prices. Consequently, we can usually match investors’ preferences with suitable properties, whether they are defined by location, type, price or target market.
We encourage investors to think in terms of financial results, not subjective issues such as aesthetics or personal views about particular neighbourhoods. By focusing on the likely return, investors will invariably make better choices – and doing that normally means looking well beyond just a single geographical area.
At any given time, the property that best suits an investor’s preferences might be a new-build apartment in a busy city centre, an office conversion in a small commuter-belt town, a tourist-friendly cottage in a popular visitor hotspot, or something else entirely. Making the right choices requires good and extensive information, but as most investors won’t want to devote all their time to research, they will typically choose to rely on professional, third-party advice. Many of our clients do precisely that.
In recent years, we have seen particularly impressive results in Britain’s secondary markets; that is to say, lesser-known towns and smaller cities that are part of buoyant city regions. Here, regeneration spending is generally more concentrated on smaller areas and smaller populations, so it often has a greater transformative effect on local economies, employment growth and, in time, demand for more and better housing.
High-performing secondary markets are often found in the commuter belts around larger cities. Examples in Greater Manchester include Bolton, Oldham and Salford, while examples in the Leeds and Sheffield city regions might include Doncaster or Selby. Similar hotspots may be found around other urban centres, such as Liverpool, Birmingham, Nottingham and others.
In smaller towns and cities, particularly those in the north, property prices tend to be lower, which typically makes higher yields more readily achievable. It often also allows more headroom for growth in average values. Recent history would certainly support this; Land Registry data shows that, while average values rose by a respectable 15.2 per cent in Manchester in the two years to April 2023, they rose by 18.7 per cent in Bolton.
This is not to suggest that any particular location represents a stand-out opportunity; only that many of the UK’s best property investments lie outside London, and that new options are hitting the market all the time. Our role is to stay alert to them, draw them to the attention of our clients and do whatever is needed to help them capitalise on them.
To find out more, visit: www.solomoninvestmentpartners.co.uk or email info@solomonip.co.uk.
“By focusing on the likely return, investors will invariably make better choices... looking well beyond just a single geographical area”
The Renters (Reform) Bill was introduced in May 2023 and should become law by next summer. What are the proposed changes in the bill and what will it mean for landlords in the private sector?
Words: Eda Komurcu
The Renters (Reform) Bill was introduced by the UK government on 17 May 2023, but must still pass through the Houses of Commons and Lords before it becomes law. It is anticipated by most industry sources that the bill will implemented by the summer of 2024.
The proposed bill is part of the government’s plan to fundamentally reform the private sector and increase housing quality for tenants. It is designed to improve renters’ rights, living conditions and general wellbeing, and, ultimately, rebalance the power between tenants and landlords.
At the time the proposed reforms were unveiled, Housing Secretary Michael Gove said: ‘Too many renters are living in damp, unsafe, cold homes, powerless to put things right, and with the threat of sudden eviction hanging over them.’
The bill also gives power to landlords to take action against anti-social behaviour and when tenants intentionally do not pay their rent, and makes it easier to evict tenants should the landlord wish to sell their property. A newly created ombudsman will oversee the implementation of the bill, and there will be new digital resources for the majority of the eviction process, in an attempt to make the system more efficient.
Significantly, the bill abolishes assured shorthold tenancies (AST) and Section 21 ‘no fault’ evictions. As a result, landlords cannot evict tenants without acceptable reason, as set out within the bill. Currently, it is common for landlords to grant six- or 12-month AST agreements and, after the fixed term has expired, tenants are required to renew their contract or switch to a periodic tenancy
(rolling tenancy with no fixed end date). The new bill will instead introduce Private Rented Sector tenancies. These are monthly periodic assured tenancies, which should make the tenancy structure simpler and give tenants the freedom to move out of properties that are below property standards.
At present, landlords can give notice under Section 21 of the Housing Act 1988 to evict tenants after the fixed term of their tenancy ends, or during periodic tenancy as long as there is a written agreement. The new bill aims to allow renters to challenge their landlords without fear of losing their homes, and tenancies will come to an end when the tenant decides.
Although the bill will abolish Section 21, it intends to strengthen Section 8, which allows the landlord to end the tenancy early if there is a legal reason to do so.
Section 8 allows landlords to evict tenants for the following reasons:
Landlord occupation: either by the landlord themselves or a close family member – or selling the property. This only applies after a tenant has been in the property for at least six months.
Anti-social behaviour.
Missed rent payments: at least two months’ rent arrears, three times within the previous three years, regardless of the arrears balance.
Currently, if tenants pay rent weekly or monthly, landlords are required only to give a minimum of one month’s notice of rent reviews. Under the new reform, rent increases will be limited to once a year and the minimum notice landlords must provide will increase to two months. If the tenant does not dispute the increase, the new rent will take effect two months after the notice. If it is disputed, the First-tier Tribunal (Property Chamber) will determine a fair market-value rental figure.
At present, tenancies strictly prohibit animals from the outset. However, the new bill will give tenants the right to request a pet in their home and landlords must consider such a request and cannot unreasonably refuse it. Landlords can require the tenant to have a pet insurance policy in place to cover damage caused, or request that the tenant covers the landlord’s reasonable insurance costs in case of damage. Landlords will need to give or refuse consent in writing on or before the 42nd day after the date of request. If the tenant feels their request was unreasonably refused, they can then raise it with the Private Rented Sector Ombudsman.
Under the new bill, an independent ombudsman will be established for the private rented sector, which will ‘provide fair, impartial, and binding resolution
to many issues and prove quicker, cheaper, and less adversarial than the court system’. A tenant’s complaint against a landlord will be independently investigated, allowing tenants and landlords to settle disputes without going to court, with the aim of relieving pressure on the court system.
A new ‘property portal’ will be introduced so tenants, landlords and local councils can access information and documents on tenancies. It will be mandatory for all landlords to register themselves and their properties on the portal.
The aim is to help landlords understand their obligations and demonstrate compliance with the legal requirements, while also allowing tenants to make more informed choices when signing tenancy agreements. The exact information that will be available to the public has not yet been determined, but it is clear the portal will help local authorities crack down on ‘rogue’ landlords.
There are plans to apply the Decent Homes Standard to the private rental sector. This ensures the property is safe, does not have fire risks, and that potential hazards are dealt with, safeguarding those living in the property. Currently, such assurances only apply to the social housing sector.
There are also plans to introduce measures preventing landlords from refusing to rent to families with children or tenants who are claiming state benefits. This will give tenants more rights, as opposed to putting them in a disadvantageous position because of their circumstances.
The Renters (Reform) Bill will mean changes, but, hopefully, these will not be as dramatic as some of us thought. It is still a draft bill and subject to amendments as it goes through parliament.
Eda Komurcu is a junior partner at Burlingtons Legal with more than 11 years’ experience in all aspects of residential property transactions.
To visit New Delhi, the capital of India, is to experience a perfect blend of ancient and modern, where culture meets commerce in a vibrant cavalcade for the senses.
After New Delhi was chosen to replace Calcutta as the seat of the British Indian government in 1912, Sir Edwin Lutyens spent nearly 20 years designing some of the most iconic architecture in the bustling city. Drawing inspiration from Indian architecture, he designed such icons as the India Gate, a memorial to the war dead, as well as Rashtrapati Bhavan,
once the Viceroy’s house and now the official residence of the President of India.
While the main financial hub is centred on Connaught Place, don’t miss colourful commerce of a different kind at Chandni Chowk Market, the ideal place to soak up the sights, sounds and food of the city.
On the outskirts of the city, where ‘New’ Delhi truly becomes ‘Old’, is Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India – built between1644-1656 – as well as Humayun’s Tomb, commissioned in 1558, and the historic Red Fort.
Investing in a classic camera is a chance to own a piece of history – and could see a strong return
Words: Ian Farrell
When you invest in a classic camera, you’re buying more than a bunch of gears, dials and glass. You could be about to own a slice of photographic history – one that could appreciate strongly if you make the right decisions and take care of your investment.
Just like classic cars, guitars and watches, collectable cameras derive their value from rarity, provenance and history. When all of those qualities coincide, you have a highly collectable item on your hands.
Take, for example, the Leica 0-series camera that once belonged to Leitz designer Oskar Barnack, the inventor of 35mm photography. Previous examples of this 1920s prototype – only 23 of which were made, with 12 surviving today – have sold for more than €2m, but the connection with Barnack makes this particular Leica camera a photography milestone. It sold for a cool €14.4m at the Leitz Photographica auction in 2022, making it the most expensive camera ever sold.
The annual Leitz Photographica Auction is a great place to look for collectable camera gear. You’ll find a lot of Leica equipment (the name Leica comes from ‘Leitz Camera’), as well as rare items from Nikon, Rollei and other famous brands.
This year’s auction, in June, featured the Leica 250 GG Reporter, a camera and motor drive film winder that was mounted on the nose of Stuka dive bombers for aerial reconnaissance in World War II. The motor drives were usually left attached to the aeroplane, so were often lost. The auction lot was one of only 16 thought to have survived, and sold for $350,000.
Cameras with military connections command a good price. It’s a common quirk that adds value and
collectability, but beware counterfeits, says rare-camera expert Bellamy Hunt.
‘Military cameras, which are usually Leica, are rare, because there aren’t many of them and they were never really meant for sale to the public,’ he says. ‘Because there are a lot of fakes, finding a genuine one can be a challenge. Some specialist sellers often take apart cameras like this to make sure they are genuine. We’ve done that sometimes, when we have a really rare item. It gives the buyer confidence and lets us remove fakes from the market.’
Hunt’s Tokyo-based business is called Japan Camera Hunter (JCH), a name that gives you a clue to his modus operandi By keeping his ear to the ground and using his extensive network of contacts, Hunt seeks out rare and collectable cameras on behalf of clients looking to make an investment.
‘After-care is important if your asset is to appreciate in value,’ he says. ‘You can’t just buy a collectable camera, slap it in a safe and expect it to be working properly in 10 years’ time. You need to take it out every couple of months and fire the shutter a few times, wind it on, and make sure the controls are moving smoothly.
‘Mould and fungus can also be a problem, so don’t store camera equipment next to money or in humid conditions. It’s best to keep lenses in isolation: I know of one collector who stored everything together and the fungus in one of the lenses spread to everything and ruined his investment.’
Hunt advises having cameras serviced by a skilled technician once in a while, and avoiding limited edition digital cameras, which have more chance of becoming obsolete over time. However, that doesn’t mean you are limited to the second-hand market.
The Leica 250 GG Reporter –a camera and motor drive film winder that was mounted on the nose of Stuka dive bombers for aerial reconnaissance in World War II
Leica 250 GG Reporter, with motor driven film winder – one of only 16 thought to have survived
Main photograph: Alamy
‘Leica is still making mechanical film cameras today, and some of the limited edition sets are great investment pieces if you can find one,’ he says. ‘For example, last year, Leica released a limited edition of its M-A rangefinder camera, made from titanium, called the Titan edition. There are only 250 in the world. It cost $20,000, and people were flipping them straight away for $30,000. In 5-10 years, that is going to be worth a fortune.’
Indeed, the last Titan limited edition that Leica produced –of its famous MP camera in 2008 – sold originally for $8,000. You’d be fortunate to find one today for less than $100,000.
You’d be forgiven at this point for thinking that Leica is the only name in collectable classic cameras, but there are others. Nikon’s pedigree in the photography world is long and distinguished, and mint condition, boxed, unused examples of its early cameras and lenses are good investment pieces.
Take the Nikon F Apollo: it didn’t go to the moon, but it was made around the time of the Apollo landings, while Nikon was collaborating with Nasa on various flight missions. They are not very different from any other Nikon F, but they are some of the last made before this camera was replaced by the Nikon F2. If you can find a mint condition, boxed example, with all the paperwork, it’s definitely worth hanging on to.
Talking of cameras in space, the specially adapted Hasselblad cameras that the likes of Neil Armstrong took to the moon were, sadly, left behind on the lunar surface to save weight on the return mission. That makes them, perhaps, the ultimate rare and collectable camera – if anyone has the means to go and collect them, that is.
A few years ago, around 10 Swedish military Leica IIIf cameras came on to the market – unusual in such numbers. ‘This can happen when a collector has died or just wants to sell part of their portfolio,’ says JCH’s Bellamy Hunt. ‘I hadn’t seen one of these for years, then all of a sudden there were a few of them around.’
They didn’t last long though. Pieces such as this sell for more than $100,000. A great example sold at last year’s Leitz Photographica Auction for €192,000.
Twin lens reflex (TLR) cameras by Rollei are the stuff of legend, used by names such as David Bailey, Walker Evans and Vivian Maier. Rollei made a lot of these kind of cameras between 1950 and 2007, and was famously bad at keeping records and serial numbers, so the best bet for a collectable example is notoriety or a limited edition.
The exquisite Rolleiflex GX Royal is wrapped in brown, African lizard-skin leather and coated by hand with Japanese urushi lacquer. The metal parts have a 24-carat gold coating. There were meant to be 150 units made, but, apparently, only 130 units made it out of the factory. It’s the rarest Rollei in the world.
It’s not just camera bodies that are collectable; some specialist lenses were made in very limited quantities and have extraordinary capabilities.
Take, for example, Nikon’s 6mm f/2.8 Fisheye-Nikkor, a lens with such a wide angle of view (a massive 220°) that it can actually see slightly behind the camera. Originally made for the National Arctic Survey to take pictures of the whole of the sky in one shot, it is said that fewer than 100 were made. That makes it possibly the rarest Nikon lens in the world. If you can find one, expect to pay upwards of £100,000.
Once upon a time, all cameras were chrome and shiny. But Japanese war photographer Shinji Yamamoto feared that a glinting reflection would get him killed by a sniper, so he asked Nikon to paint his camera black so he could work more stealthily. And thus, the black camera was born.
‘Any classic black-painted camera is increasing a lot right now, to the point where a black-paint Leica is becoming unaffordable for a lot of collectors,’ warns Hunt. ‘The Nikon S rangefinder is the secret sleeper of the collectable camera world – you can get a black-paint example of something extremely rare for about $10,000 that will appreciate strongly over the next few years.’
Neil Armstrong took a specially adapted Hasselblad camera to the moon, but it was left behind on the lunar surface to save weight on the return mission
Photograph: NASA, Sacn: Glen Swanson of NASA Johnson
Alistair Muscat, CEO of Integra Private Wealth, takes a closer look at the potential impact of rising inflation and interest rates
For more than three decades leading up to 2022, global consumers enjoyed a period of price stability and controlled inflation. Despite growing economies and increased consumption, prices for goods and services remained steady. This favourable situation resulted from various factors, primarily the reduction in production costs through globalisation and technological advancements. However, the outbreak of Covid-19 brought about a series of events that have escalated inflation significantly over the past year, adversely affecting consumers.
Before exploring the reasons behind the sudden rise in inflation, let’s establish a definition. Inflation, as per the Oxford Dictionary, refers to ‘a fall in the value of money and a general increase in prices’. Another perspective defines inflation as the erosion of purchasing power for consumers and businesses. High and uncontrolled inflation is generally viewed as negative because, unless consumers’ purchasing power increases in line with inflation, they are worse off, and personal wealth diminishes.
Inflation began to creep higher in 2022, as Covid
restrictions eased and consumers, using their accumulated savings from lockdowns, fuelled spending. The savings rate increased significantly during the lockdowns because of aggressive fiscal-stimulus measures implemented by governments to support their economies during the halt in economic activity. As consumer activity accelerated after the lockdowns, supply chains struggled to meet the heightened demand. The Ukraine-Russia conflict added fuel to the fire, causing commodity and food prices to skyrocket as some countries swiftly shifted their energy and food purchases in response to sanctions imposed on Russia.
The primary mandate of influential central banks worldwide is to maintain inflation within a specified target. In the United States and the European Union, the target inflation rate set by the Federal Reserve Bank and the European Central Bank is two per cent. When inflation rates exceed this target, central banks use all available tools in their monetary policy arsenal to rein in inflation.
The most powerful monetary tool employed by central bankers during periods of high inflation is adjusting interest rates. Over the past 18 months, central banks have embarked on the most aggressive tightening of interest rates
since the 1970s. Higher interest rates typically lead to reduced credit availability, making loans and mortgages less affordable. As credit decreases, so does the money supply. With less money circulating, spending declines, and if the supply side of the economy remains robust, prices should begin to stabilise.
However, higher interest rates have collateral effects on the economy as a whole, as well as on individual spending and borrowing capabilities. The overarching aim of higher rates is to slow down economic activity. This can occur through reduced demand, ultimately leading to lower business activity and higher unemployment levels.
Central banks primarily target wage inflation as a means to lower overall inflation. Controlling wage increases is crucial in breaking the cycle of higher spending and higher prices. This also implies that things may need to worsen economically before they can improve, and consumers are currently caught between higher prices, increased borrowing costs, and potentially lower wages or higher unemployment levels.
So far, economic data suggests a slowdown in economic activity, although unemployment levels remain historically low. This situation may give rise to a ‘soft landing’, where inflation decreases, and the economy avoids a recession.
Our perspective is that global gross domestic product (GDP) growth for this year is projected to fall below the 10-year average, while we anticipate a stronger global GDP next year. As a result, major economies such as the US and the EU are likely to experience a mild recession, if any.
The inflation trajectory in these economies is expected to continue declining until 2024, aligning with the central bank targets by the year’s end. However, we anticipate that core inflation, excluding energy and food, will decrease at a slower pace because of tight labour markets and the persistent challenge of wage inflation in controlling overall inflation.
Given this scenario, we expect central banks to conclude their tightening cycle by the end of Q3 2023, followed by interest rate cuts around mid-2024. We anticipate that interest rates will remain elevated for a longer duration as economies adapt to a new normal in terms of nominal base rates.
This might not be favourable news for mortgage holders, but it’s important to note that price recalibration typically accompanies economic adjustments to lower demand within a cycle. Eventually, central banks will readjust what they term as the neutral rate, which we anticipate will trend lower compared with the current rates in the longer term.
With an extraordinary story spanning nearly 350 years, hatmaker Lock & Co. is a slice of living history – with both feet firmly in the modern day
Words: Peter Taylor-Whiffen
THERE’S something extraordinary about buying a hat from the same shop where Admiral Lord Nelson purchased his bicorne for the Battle of Trafalgar – but, then, there is no emporium like Lock & Co.
It has been selling hats on the same premises in St James’s Street, London, since 1676, making it comfortably the oldest retail store in the capital, and the most venerable hat shop in Britain. Perhaps most remarkably of all, Lock & Co. is still run by the family that founded it.
‘We’ve always proudly remained essentially the same,’ says senior retail manager Michael Hagon. ‘I’m certain that if Lord Nelson walked in today, apart from modern aspects such as carpeting and electric lights, he would immediately recognise the familiar surroundings, the quality products and the outstanding service as his favourite hat shop.’
The Admiral, who opened an account here in November 1800 to purchase 17 hats over the next five years, is just one of generations of famous names to walk through Lock’s doors. Sir Winston Churchill bought his homburgs here; Oscar Wilde, Charlie Chaplin and Beau Brummell regularly dropped by; and Princess Diana and Jackie Onassis were customers.
Recent clients have included Sir Kenneth Branagh, Gary Oldman and Justin Timberlake. The quintessentially British Lock & Co. even hats James Bond – as well as villainous henchman Oddjob.
So, what keeps bringing them here? ‘Simple – the quality of our products,’ says Hagon. ‘Whatever you order, we aim to give you the most special version you can get, using the best materials from around the world. Almost all our hats are made in England; the exceptions are Lock’s Panamas, which, to be defined as the genuine article, are handwoven in Ecuador. But, for a felt hat, we’ll use the best-quality felt, which generally comes from Spain or Portugal. If you want the best sweatband, that’s made from finest Italian leather.’ Customers also come, however, for the personal experience of being hatted. ‘We are aware that people who haven’t bought a hat before might be daunted to step into the oldest shop in London,’ says Hagon. ‘But we treat every customer the same. We’re friendly; we make them feel relaxed; we might have a little banter if we think that will put them at their ease. The idea is that, whether or not they leave with a hat, they have had a positive, and even a fun, experience.’
That experience begins with Hagon (right) and his team establishing why the customer needs the hat. ‘After determining the purpose, we would give advice depending on the look of the person. With gentlemen, we hat in proportion – if the customer
is 6’4” and wants a felt hat, we wouldn’t put him in a short-brimmed style because the hat would get lost. If you’re a shorter chap, we wouldn’t suggest a widebrimmed fedora for risk of what we call ‘over-hatting’. We want you to wear the hat, not the other way round.
‘Then we explore colours, styles and materials, naturally ensuring that the fit is correct. We measure you, of course, but we explain the whole process as we go. You won’t necessarily be the same size in every hat. It’s like being fitted for handmade shoes. It’s a very individual thing.’
Lock & Co. guides customers towards hats it thinks suit them best, but always respects the client’s choice. ‘Having said that, the vast majority come in for the interaction – to gain from our experience,’ says Hagon. ‘They don’t want to say “I need a hat”, us to reply “what size are you?”, plonk it on their head and away they go. They want to be hatted, with attentive knowledgeable service. People value our expertise, and we are delighted to offer that with, hopefully, some fun along the way.’
Women experience even more individual attention. At the top of the building is an attic atelier, where four skilled milliners design and make couture ‘occasion’ hats. ‘This is
a different process from the gentlemen’s hats,’ says Hagon. ‘It’s much more bespoke. We have stylists who look at the entire person, but also assess the occasion – if it’s a wedding, a christening, a garden party, Royal Ascot. With our female customers, it’s a longer, broader conversation.
‘We do create individual hats, although they might also choose a particular hat we have in stock but want, say, a rose on the side, or a different trim, so we customise them that way. We aim to give you something that has no obsolescence. We want you to pick it up again on another occasion in the future, finding it hasn’t gone out of fashion and it’s still appropriate to wear.’
Perhaps because of this, Lock’s biggest sellers tend to be classic, timeless designs. ‘There are trends – we’re currently selling a lot of baker boy hats because of TV shows such as Peaky Blinders,’ Hagon explains. The trilby and the fedora are also perennially popular – ‘some of our enduring designs have sold consistently well since the 1950s’ – as is arguably Lock & Co.’s most famous invention.
The ‘Coke’ was commissioned in 1849 by the then Earl of Leicester Thomas Coke (pronounced Cook) as a hard hat for his gamekeepers
at Holkham Hall in Norfolk, but most people name it after the Lock & Co. hatmaker who designed the prototype, Thomas Bowler.
‘Every Bowler hat has derived from that order from Thomas Coke, so we still sell it as a Coke hat,’ says Hagon.
Lock & Co. is the last shop standing from what was once a thriving community of hatters in this part of the city. ‘A century ago, there were probably a few dozen in Bond Street, Jermyn Street and Piccadilly, and they have disappeared,’ says Hagon.
‘Why have we survived? A few reasons, I think. Aside from the quality, there’s our location – all the original businesses in St James’s Street were founded to service [nearby] St James’s Palace, and our building is special. Another reason is continuity. Many heritage businesses are no longer family-owned, but our deputy chairman, Roger Stephenson, is a direct descendant of our founders, and several other family members have roles here. We have remained true to our roots.’
For all its remarkable history, however, Lock & Co. is very much a 21st-century store. ‘We have a successful online shop, which includes comprehensive advice on measuring
and fitting,’ Hagon explains. ‘That really blossomed during the pandemic. But we also do digital consultations – video calls with customers around the world. Our systems are bang up to date; we preserve what we’ve done before, but we’re always looking ahead too, exploring innovations in materials and manufacture. Sustainability is, of course, a huge thing for us now. We’re very forward-thinking, which may be another reason we’re still here.’
Providing the ultimate customer service is at Lock’s heart – the same service that kept Lord Nelson coming back. ‘We’re a small team, but we’re all invested in honouring the traditions of the business,’ says Hagon. ‘We’re not just sales assistants; everyone who works here is a hatter, and we know how to ensure you get the right hat for you. We stand on the shoulders of the generations who came before us. We’re custodians of that legacy and we’re proud to carry it forward.’
What better way to enjoy the long, balmy evenings of summer than with a refreshing drink or two in the lush surroundings of one of London’s elegant garden bars
Words: Amy Bennett
While away a summer evening at the Leopard Bar garden terrace at the Montague on the Gardens Hotel, overlooking the tranquil gardens of the Bedford Estates. Enjoy the ‘taste of South Africa’ tasting menu, pairing delicious wines and savoury bites, or take advantage of the cigar sommelier, who will advise on the best limited edition or vintage cigars to sample from the spacious humidor cabinet.
montaguehotel.com
Part of the opulent Bloomsbury Hotel and one of the most sought-after indoor/outdoor dining spaces in the city, the Dalloway Terrace boasts lavish seasonal floral installations by McQueens. The beautiful blooms are second only to a decadent menu of seasonal produce. Spend a summer evening indulging in the bar’s summertime cocktails, accompanied by dressed Dorset crab or perhaps some Jersey Rock oysters.
dallowayterrace.com
■ STANLEY’S, CHELSEA
What better place to spend a warm summer evening that in the beautiful setting of an English country garden – just off the King’s Road. The menu focuses on the best of British seasonal produce, while the wine list, created in partnership with the local wine merchant, Lea & Sandeman, mixes the best of European with Stanley’s own English sparkling wine from the Hampshire-based Coates & Seely. Or perhaps indulge in a signature Stanley’s cocktail – a Courtyard Bramble or refreshing Cucumber & Basil’tini.
stanleyschelsea.co.uk
■ THE KEEPER’S GARDEN AT THE ROYAL ACADEMY, PICCADILLY
Round off a visit to the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition with a visit to the Keeper’s House Garden. Brick walls and floor are ensconced in climbers and leafy ferns in this garden created by renowned landscaper Tom Stuart-Smith, which currently features sculpture work by Ann Christopher RA. Sip a delicious cocktail from the ever-changing menu or enjoy the monthly food and drink pairings – there is always something new to try in this secret hideaway.
royalacademy.org.uk/keepers-house
Step off the bustling King’s Road into this verdant oasis, where wrought-iron tables nestle alongside wisteria, climbing roses and a central stone fountain. Come for brunch, stay for dinner, and enjoy sampling cocktails such as the rosemary and lavender-infused Chelsea Collins. The menu features classic favourites with a luxurious twist, while making full use of seasonal specials.
ivycollection.com/restaurants/the-ivy-chelsea-garden
Britain is famous across the world for its iconic sporting locations – Wimbledon, Wembley, Silverstone, Twickenham, Henley and Ascot, to name but a few. What is less well known is that the UK is one of the world’s leading locations for polo
Words: Diana Butler
The finest players in the sport of polo, and their magnificent horses, can be found in action on British polo fields from early May until mid-September. These athletes charge across the vast grass polo fields of England –the equivalent of six football pitches – at up to 40 miles an hour, using only their weight and the speed and courage of their ponies to keep their opponent off that all-important, small, white ball.
Delivering drama with every stride, this perfect harmony of player and pony not only inspires many to pick up a polo stick, but also encourages many more to watch regularly with a combination of astonishment and adoration.
Hand-in-hand with the sport are the fabulous event days, with luxury brands such as Cartier creating the ultimate,
must-have invitations. VIP guests and spectators take their outfits to the next level, matching the polo in terms of perfection and hoping to recreate their own Pretty Woman moment when treading in the divots at half-time.
The sport’s links to the Royal Family only add to the glamour, bringing an element of pomp and pageantry that makes an afternoon at a British polo event unique among its sporting peers.
In terms of gorgeous luxury and standout polo, the ‘go-to’ UK clubs are Guards Polo Club, in the heart of Windsor Great Park in Surrey, and Cowdray Park Polo Club in Midhurst, West Sussex. Both venues boast impressive summer fixtures and regularly attract the sport’s top players.
Guards Polo Club, home to the Cartier Queen’s Cup, is probably the most famous polo club in the world. It has been said that ‘Smith’s Lawn [the club’s location in
the park] is to polo what Park Avenue is to New York’. This sporting venue of excellence hosts more than 550 matches throughout its five-month season – that works out at around four games a day. The club’s reputation is built on its facilities: several premier polo fields, including the perfectly-named Castle Ground with its incredible backdrop of Windsor Castle a spectacular location; two royal boxes; luxury clubhouse and bar; and close ties with the Royal Family. King Charles lll has won trophies here, as did his father, Prince Philip, who founded the club in 1955.
Some younger members of the Royal Family have inherited this polo gene and Guards Polo Club regularly hosts the Prince of Wales’s Royal Charity Polo Day. Last year, this single event raised a staggering £1m for a range of charities personally selected by the Prince and Princess of Wales.
Cowdray Park is another big hitter in the sport. Home to the British Open Championship, also known as the Gold Cup, the club dates back to 1910. It was founded by the Pearson family of whom the 3rd Viscount Cowdray is credited with having revived polo after World War II. This competitive lord’s success on the polo field was even more remarkable as he lost an arm in that war, but still continued to play at the highest level for many years.
Guards and Cowdray are just two of the 70 outdoor polo clubs and 30 arena venues recognised by the sport’s governing body, the Hurlingham Polo Association, here in the UK. All of these clubs may vary in what they can offer the polo player or spectator, but at their heart they are the same – passionate about perhaps the oldest team sport in the world; it is believed to date back more than 2,000 years.
The sport is not just confined to grass, either. The UK is home to the popular Sandbanks Polo, played on the beach in Poole, Dorset, every July. The combination of polo, live music and street food delivers a different vibe to its more established peers, but still has polo at its core.
The sport is not confined to the summer months, either, as snow polo continues to grow in popularity across Europe in the winter. The standout event in this colder season is the uber-glamorous Snow Polo World Cup in St Moritz, Switzerland. This is three days of top-level polo during the last weekend of January, played high up in the Albula Alps, with players and ponies at full-speed across the frozen lake.
In fact, there is so much polo these days that spectators are spoilt for choice. So if it is just a lack of knowledge that is stopping you from heading out to watch a game, check out the crib sheet opposite, and you will soon be transformed into a seasoned specialist – probably even before you hear the bell that marks the end of the first chukka (period of play).
USEFUL LINKS
hpa-polo.co.uk
guardspoloclub.com
cowdraypolo.co.uk
snowpolo-stmoritz.com
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Teams change ends after every goal. Originally, this was to make sure that one team did not have the disadvantage of playing on uneven ground or having the sun in their eyes. As today’s polo fields are usually laser-levelled it is not so much of an issue, but the tradition remains.
The best players in the world boast a 10-goal handicap. Unlike golf, the higher the handicap the better the polo player. Currently, every member of this elite group is from South America and they can all be seen in action on a British polo field in the summer months.
Horses in polo are always referred to as ponies. There used to be a height restriction in the sport, but this was abandoned in 1918. As a result, players are just as likely to be mounted on horses, but the name ‘pony’ has stuck.
The length of the polo stick depends on the size of the pony, not the height of the player.
Everybody is welcome to tread in the divots on the field at halftime. Polo is the only sport that actively encourages spectators to invade the pitch – although venturing out in very high heels might result in a rescue operation from the umpires.
It’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey. Nowhere is that more true than on one of the world’s best luxury rail journeys.
Fall asleep in one city and wake up in another; take in soaring mountains and sweeping vistas, all from the comfort of a travelling five-star hotel
Words: Amy BennettTravelling one of the world’s highest rail routes, the Belmond Andean Explorer takes in some of the most stunning views in Peru, from Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incas, to the La Raya mountain range and Lake Titicaca, as well as the city of Arequipa, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The classical décor of the luxurious cabins has more than a nod to Peruvian culture and colours. Take in the stunning scenery from the comfort of your own suite cabin or perhaps the open-air viewing area. And as if the beautiful scenery were not relaxing enough, indulge in spa treatments onboard as the train makes its way through the Andes.
belmond.com/trains/south-america/peru/belmond-andean-explorer/journeys
Having made its maiden journey in 2004, the Deccan Odyssey is a relative newcomer to the world of luxury train travel. However, its décor harks back to the bygone era of the maharajahs, but with plenty of modern twists in the lavish cabins.
With six journeys on offer, all in the state of Maharashtra, each seven-night trip packs in some of the most iconic sites of India, in a kaleidoscope of colours and culture. Back on board the train, retire to your Presidential Suite to prepare for a sumptuous dinner, or perhaps visit the Spa Car, which offers a sauna and beauty parlour and gym.
deccan-odyssey-india.com
Photography: www.luxurytrainclub.com
Running from Cape Town on the west coast to Pretoria in the north, The Blue Train showcases nearly 1,000 miles of the most breathtaking South African landscapes over three days.
If you can tear yourself away from the scenery, The Blue Train offers every comfort, including a personal butler for each luxury suite.
Enjoy a soak in your marble and gold-appointed bathroom before donning evening wear for a night of fine dining. Menus include the finest local cuisine, such as Karoo lamb or ostrich, accompanied by award-winning Cape wines, and you can round off a memorable evening with cognac and Cuban cigars in the Club Car.
bluetrain.co.za
The last word in luxury train travel, Japan’s Seven Stars Kyushu is so in demand that guests must register their interest months in advance just to book a ticket for a three-night journey around the island of Kyushu.
Stunning Japanese décor is a feature of the seven-car train, with traditional craftsmanship featured throughout. The lounge car ‘Blue Moon’, which affords sweeping views from its panoramic windows, while the tea room offers guests the chance to experience another part of traditional Japanese culture.
Each train features two exclusive deluxe suites, with elegant Japanese furniture enhancing the spacious suite. with the suite at the end of the last car featuring a wall-to-wall window, perfect for taking in every moment of the passing landscape.
luxurytrainclub.com/trains/seven-stars-kyushu
Surely one of the most epic transcontinental rail journeys in the world, the Indian Pacific traverses the width of Australia, from Sydney to Perth, via Adelaide. Over the course of four days and three nights of luxurious travel, follow the journey of gold rush prospectors, pioneers and adventurers, over the course of 4,352km of stunning scenery.
Book the Platinum package to enjoy an extra touch of luxury, as well as the very best in regionallyinspired fine dining, complimented by delicious local wines. Soak in the very best of three cosmopolitan cities – Sydney, Adelaide and Perth, and take advantage of a range of off-train excursions to see even more of the stunning scenery.
journeybeyondrail.com.au
When renting my property, how do I avoid getting stung?
Property hijacking has been happening for years, where a landlord’s identity is stolen by criminals in order to sell their rental property. The fraudster will pose as a prospective tenant, change their name by deed poll and then apply for a passport. Once they have access to the property, they can show potential buyers around and sell it, before the penny drops. This type of crime has tripled in the past four years, with an estimated £25m going into the hands of conmen.
There are things you can do – register with the Land Registry, which will alert you if someone is trying to switch the ownership of your property or use it for a mortgage. It will also put restrictions on the property, so it cannot be sold unless a solicitor certifies the application has been made by you.
The biggest prevention is to do your homework –thorough referencing and checks on tenants,
including credit references, ID, current employment and the previous landlord. The common pattern is that fraudsters will not move into the property, so check your tenant a few days after they move in (with 24 hours’ notice) and periodically thereafter.
There are also risks for tenants who share their personal information and want to rent property, as advertising fraud is another sting. This usually entails the fraudster using the property details and advertising it at a very low rent. A ‘too good to be true’ advert will always attract a lot of tenants, like bees to a honey pot, thinking they have just hit the jackpot. They are then asked for large deposits to secure the property with no signed contract – and sometimes the property will not even exist.
The key is to take your time and do your checks. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is not genuine. Compare the rental markets in areas that you don't know well, especially overseas, where scams inflate prices for people not familiar with the location.
jordan.jordan@burlingtons.group
