Centered on Taiwan - Summer 2023

Centered on TAIWAN

COVER IMAGE

Zongzi ( 粽子), Chinese sticky rice dumplings, are traditionally eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival.

Image by mae-mu/unsplash

For more information, please go to our website at www.communitycenter.org.tw

COT Team

FROM THE EDITOR

Please send email submissions, comments, and feedback to coteditor@communitycenter.org.tw

Dear Readers,

I'm excited to introduce myself as the new editor of Centered on Taiwan (COT). I have been a resident of this community for many years, and am passionate about building community. I am committed to providing a platform for a diverse range of voices and stories about the people, places, and events that make this community special.

Sue Babcock, the previous editor, has, for many years, nurtured a publication that is cherished by many in our community. It is an honour to be entrusted with the role of editor and I am grateful to Sue and to the Center for giving me an opportunity to continue her valuable work with the magazine.

Art, Photography and Writing Contributors

Cédric Alviani

Faye Angevine

Lutetia ART-at-TAC

New Page Books

Indigenous Bridges

Dory Chung Bai Win Collection Crossroads

Seiji Kamei

Roma Mehta

Mackenzie Miller San San

Leo Seewald

Jessica Wang Simula

Lucy Torres

Correspondence may be sent to the editor at coteditor@ communitycenter.org.tw Freelance writers, photographers and illustrators are welcome to contact the editor to discuss editorial and graphic assignments. Your talent will find a home with us!

This summer issue is our first transition to a truly dynamic digital platform, which will allow you to read and share anytime, anywhere. Sharing is easy and simply a click away. Also starting from this edition, COT has changed its name to Centered on Taiwan. Over the years, we have transitioned to a magazine that truly reflects our communities around the island, not just in Taipei.

June marks the beginning of summer and the Dragon Boat Festival (June 22-24, 2023). Traditions like eating zongzi (粽子), Chinese sticky rice dumplings, hanging calamus and wormwood on doors to ward off evil, and wearing perfumed sachets to keep the mosquitoes and germs of summer away are a few of my favourites.

Publisher Community Services Center, Taipei

Centered on Taiwan is a publication of the Community Services Center, 2F, No. 238, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 6, Shilin, Taipei, Taiwan 111032 Tel: 02-2836-8134 Fax: 02-2835-2530

Copyright 2023. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without the written consent of the copyright owner.

COT publishes 10 editions in full, magazine format online with only 4 printed editions (Summer, Autumn, Winter, Spring) each year. COT is printed on Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified 100% post-consumer recycled fiber. See the FSC rules mandates here: https://ic.fsc.org/

COMMUNITY SERVICES CENTER

The Community Services Center (CSC) is a non-profit foundation. CSC provides outreach and early intervention through counseling, cross-cultural education and life skills programs to meet the needs of the international community in Taipei. CSC offers the opportunity to learn, volunteer, teach and meet others. Check out our website www.communitycenter.org.tw and drop by The Center to chat with us about our programs. You can also email us at csc@communitycenter.org.tw.

Director

Office Manager Counselors Consultants

Counseling Admin.

Adam McMillan

Mandy Wang McCarthy

I-wen Chan, Katherine Chang, Hui-shiang Chao, Chiao-Feng Chung, Cerita Hsu, Lily Lin, Miranda Lin, Emilie Ma, Kuan-Shan Wan, Zoe Wu

Anne Cheng, Tom Cole, Mary Langerstrom

Ximena Lopez, Sofia Vintimila

Joanne Chua

We hope you will enjoy this new platform which has been made possible through the support of the Center and the COT team. As a non-profit organisation, we offer COT free for all, supported by those who can. I am looking forward to working with all of you to create a magazine that is informative, engaging, and inspiring.

COT publishes 10 editions in full magazine format online with only 4 printed editions (Summer, Autumn, Winter, Spring) each year. Our magazine can be found here: https://communitycenter.org.tw/what-we-do/magazine/

Wishing you a happy summer and Happy Dragon Boat Festival!

Roma

Counseling Admin. Assistant

Accountant

Programs Manager

Events Coordinator

Communications

Mandarin Chinese Teacher

Systems Manager

Interns

Coffee Mornings Coordinators

Volunteers

Matina Chen

Monica Cheng

Lucy Torres

Sammy Driessen

Pia Munk-Janson

Gloria Gwo

Samson Assamnew

Lily Yu Chi Lin, Zack Liu

Stephenie Meadows, Melany Zwartjes

Sophie Lin, John Imbrogulio, Jessica Wang Simula, Yuk Lin (Jan) Tsang, Petra Yu, Szu-Han Wang

Roma Mehta Editor coteditor@ communitycenter.org.tw

KC Graphic Designer katia@ communitycenter.org.tw

Naomi Kaly Advertising Manager naomi@ communitycenter.org.tw

HOSPITALS

VETERANS GENERAL HOSPITAL ShiPai Rd , Sec 2, ShiPai

台北市北投區⽯牌路⼆段201號 (02) 2871 - 2121 CHENG HSIN GENERAL HOSPITAL Cheng Hsin St , Beitou,

45號 (02)-2826-4400

Taiwan Adventist Hospital 424 Bade Rd, Sec 2, Songshan District, Taipei

⼭區⼋德路2段424號 (02) 2771 8151

Focus Taiwan www focustaiwan tw

Times www.taipeitimes.com Taiwan News www taiwannews com tw

HOW TO PAY BILLS

Electricity, water, parking and other types of bills can be paid in person at: 7-11 Familymart Hi-Life Convenience stores

113

FOREIGNERS IN TAIWAN HOTLINE 1990 (24-HOUR SERVICE IN INFORMATION

Taiwan's Central Weather Bureau www.cwb.gov.tw/eng (available as app) ICRT Radio: 100 7FM

After Hours Crisis Line (5 pm

- 9 am) Tel: 0932-594-578

The Community Services Center (02) 2836-8134

No. 238, Section 6, Zhongshan North Rd., Shilin District, Taipei City 111032, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

people who care knowledge to share

During this period, counseling appointments will proceed as usual, subject to the availability of counselors who may have scheduled holidays. Additionally, the crisis phone number will remain unchanged and operational outside of the summer office hours.

Tel: (02) 2836-8134

Email: counseling@communitycenter.org.tw

Registration for Center activities will open Mid-August

Center activities start on 4 September 2023

September Welcome Coffee Morning will be on 7 September 2023

to Taiwan!

Have you recently arrived in Taiwan? Feeling a little confused or overwhelmed? Frustrated at being illiterate as you don’t read Mandarin? Don’t worry, it’s perfectly normal and you are not alone! I felt exactly the same way five years ago and wondered how long I would manage to stay here. Now, I don’t want to leave. I love this place: it’s safe, convenient, has many beautiful places to visit and the people are very friendly even through Google Translate. However, I know it can be hard working things out at first, so here are a few suggestions to help you on your new adventure.

Now, I know I’m the Programs Manager there, so you could call me biased, but helping newcomers settle in is part of our job. Our motto is WE ARE HERE TO HELP. We are in Tianmu and we’re open Monday-Friday, 9:00am to 5:00pm, so you can call up or pop in with any question, big or small (Where do I apply for an ARC? Where can I find an English speaking doctor? How do I pay this parking ticket?) or just come and chat with us – we’re a friendly bunch. We offer a wide-ranging program of activities which includes Survival Chinese, hikes, tours, arts & crafts and cooking classes. These are open to anyone and you can register online. We also offer free activities such as our monthly coffee mornings with a different speaker each time and the chance to mingle and meet new people. So the Center is a good starting point to collect information, do activities and meet people. We also provide counseling services in English and Mandarin for children, adults and couples who need a little extra support.

Social Media

7/11, Family Mart and Hi-Life are convenience stores that you see everywhere in Taiwan and they really do live up to their name. Not only can you buy hot and cold food and drinks but you can also pay household bills; collect parcels; top up your EasyCard and make photocopies. In addition, they both have machines where you can pay parking tickets, make payments for theatre tickets, sports events, etc. There is an option in English but staff are very helpful and will come and help you out at the machine if you get stuck. Finally, these stores usually have an ATM and often have a restroom so they are truly a one-stop shop.

If you’re looking for a specific group of people who share your interests then look at Meetup Taiwan: https://www.meetup.com/ find/taiwan/. There are all sorts of groups here from language exchange to foodie to hiking to technology. If you only attend one meeting of one of these groups, the chances are you’ll meet someone like-minded who can share their experiences or suggestions.

Facebook has a lot of groups depending on your needs and interests. These are some of the groups that people find particularly useful and I think their names are self-explanatory:

• FIT (Friends in Taiwan)

• Tianmu Events

• Taipei Parents

• Taipei Ladies

• Taipei Expats

• Buy Nothing Taipei

• Taipei: Buy, Sell, Trade

• Parkbus Taiwan

One of the best places to start is The Community Services Center: www.communitycenter.org.tw.

APPs

There are a whole host of apps that can be useful. Here are a few to look out for:

• LINE - all the locals use this rather than Whatsapp and it has groups for different activities.

• Uber – for cars

• Find a taxi – when there is no Uber service

• Ubereats or Foodpanda – for food (ready cooked or groceries) delivered to your home

• TRA – to book your train tickets – or if you’re old-fashioned like me then the website is: https://tip.railway.gov.tw/tratip-web/tip?lang=EN_US

• T-EX – to book high speed rail tickets

• Bus Tracker Taipei – bus timetables and routes

• OPENTIX – to buy tickets for events

• Yun duan fa piao - scan the code on your receipt and see if you’ve won the lottery

Transport

Wellbeing

Obviously, we hope that you won’t need to visit the doctor early on in your stay in Taiwan. However, it’s always good to be prepared. The Taiwan Adventist in central Taipei and Taipei Veterans in Tianmu are two of the largest hospitals and many staff speak English. On their websites, you can select the department you need: cardio, dermatology, etc and make an appointment with the doctor of your choice.

The MRT, bus and train systems are very efficient and remarkably easy to use. The first thing to do is buy an EasyCard which you can do at any MRT station. The card costs NT$100 and then you add credit. You can also top up your card at the ticket machines. You can use this card for the MRT, buses (swipe it when you get on and off) and local trains (no need to buy a ticket); for HSR and express trains you do need to buy a ticket in advance..

Cycling is another option and there are Ubike stands available all over Taipei which make it very easy. Before using a Ubike for the first time, you need to register your EasyCard at a kiosk which you can find at most Ubike stands. Be aware that to register you need a Taiwan phone number. Once you’ve registered you can swipe and go! While it is easy to get around Taipei using public transport, some newcomers want to use a scooter or car. You are allowed to drive for a year with an international driving license from SOME countries, it depends on the agreement Taiwan has with the country you come from. If you plan to stay here for longer then you will need to exchange your home-country license for a Taiwanese one or take the test to get a Taiwanese license, again depending on the agreement Taiwan has with the country you come from. Visit this website for more information: https://tpcmv.thb.gov.tw/cl.aspx?n=9456. Alternatively, if you need assistance Adorbiker is a company that can help with this process for both scooters and cars: www.adorbiker.com

Have you reached information overload? It’s probably time for me to stop. Don’t forget, you can call The Center on 02-28368134 or visit us. We’re a ten-minute walk from Zhishan station and right above Family Mart so you can pay your bills at the same time! When you’re in the area drop in and say hello.

Lucy Torres is the Programs Manager at The Center and enjoys organising different activities and events that cover topics from Taiwanese culture to environmental awareness.

Support Disability Inclusion in Taiwan

Sign

Disability

#DisabilityInclusion Campaign

A

Disability certification serves as official recognition of an individual’s physical or mental disability, and allows access to a range of assistance and services, including, but not limited to, the ability to hire migrant homecare, obtain economic relief for costly medical treatments and equipment, enroll at special education schools, receive transportation discounts for elders and their helpers, and even acquire a disabled parking permit. However, the government currently prohibits immigrants who are not of Taiwanese or Japanese nationality from applying for Disability Certification even if they are long-

ccording to national (5.1%) and global (16%) proportions of disabled individuals, it is estimated that between 40,000 and 176,000 foreign residents in Taiwan with a physical or mental disability are being systematically ignored and denied official recognition via a Disability Certification (身心障礙證明 or 殘 障手冊). And now, as the foreign resident population ages and Taiwan ramps up its efforts to attract and retain new talent, this has become an increasingly glaring issue requiring immediate attention and resolution.term, tax-paying permanent residents.

With the #DisabilityInclusion campaign, Crossroads and My Several Worlds - Chronic Pain and Disability Awareness are now raising public awareness and support on this issue, while actively working with powerful legislators and government officials in the Ministry of Health and Welfare, National Development Council, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and Ministry of Interior to push for reform.

You may learn more about the issue and show your support by signing our bilingual petition on the official join.gov.tw website in the following link: https://shorturl.at/depw2. Since the website interface is only in Chinese, you may refer to English instructions here: https://shorturl.at/pQW07

If you are an immigrant and see Taiwan as your home, we strongly encourage you to also inquire with your embassy or mission representatives about residents from your native country being included.

Please look forward to new updates on our progress on this campaign. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ CrossroadsTaiwan. Thank you for your time and support.

“I am not allowed home visits by medical professionals to evaluate care needs (assistive devices, care technique..), no parking sticker for disability, no financial support for wheelchair taxi, no grants for the purchase of any assistive devices (wheelchair, electrical bed, mucus pump, oxygen tank...), no support to my wife who is taking care of me (沒有喘息服務), no information on therapist need, no support on public transportation fare (沒 有敬老或殘障優惠)”

— Michael Boyden, UK resident of Taiwan for 34 years diagnosed with Atypical Parkinsonism

“Time is of the essence for many of us living in Taiwan. I suffer from a disabling type of inflammatory spinal arthritis called Axial Spondyloarthritis. I live in chronic pain every day. Disability affects EVERY ASPECT OF YOUR LIFE. It’s expensive: Meds, supplements, vitamins, & liquid meals; medical supplies, parking costs, at home assistance, mobility aids, prosthetics, dietary needs, adaptive devices; disability taxis at NT$400, and many hospital visits each year add up. People with disabilities face higher healthcare costs, lower quality care, & less preventative care. It is important that everyone has access to disability services. Disability does not discriminate. Anyone can become disabled at any time. We all deserve to have equal access to Taiwan’s disability services.”

— Carrie Kellenberger, Canadian resident of Taiwan for 17 years with Ankylosing Spondylitis, Psoriatic Arthritis, Fibromyalgia, and MECFS

“I am legally blind in both eyes with no functional vision. Some foundations offer training courses, counseling, and social care assistance to people with visual impairments, but their services are only for Taiwanese nationals. Assistive devices such as walking canes can be freely obtained, but only by local Taiwanese who are blind.”

— Andrew Klerck, South African resident of Taiwan for 19 years diagnosed with Retinitis Pigmentosa, a genetic condition that causes blindness

David Chang, Secretary-General, Crossroads. Email: david@crossroads.tw.

Join the New Page Book Club

JUNE 4

Book collages with artist Pallevi Saxena. Bring your favorite quote as inspiration. Tickets cost NTD1,600 including all supplies and a frame for your collage.

Venue: 臺北市中山區民生東路二段90巷4號4樓

Tickets: https://www.newpage.life/event-details-registration/june-book-collage-1?fbclid=IwAR3C GA_IHdMAbyTtg_qsxYSaF1n75WHG0WXjoBQFfCgMmqLaSK7xPZl78v4

https://www.newpage.life/

JULY 6

People We Meet on Vacation by Emily Henry 2021

Monthly book club discussion. You can join in person at Red Room Rendezvous or discuss the book

“People we meet on vacation” on our Facebook group. Links to the book (including one to the Taipei library) are available on the event page. We hope to see you there!

https://www.facebook.com/newpagebooks

MORNING BOOK CLUB

Location: Bai Win Collection Antiques & Objets d'Art | 1F, No. 2, Lane 405 Zhongshan North Rd., Sec. 6 Taipei For more information, contact Julie Hu at: mcelroy22000@yahoo.com

JUNE 13

Two Old Broads: Stuff You Need to Know That You Didn’t Know You Needed to Know

by

Dr.

M. E.

Hecht (Author), Whoopi Goldberg 2022

Written by renowned surgeon and expert on the art of aging, Dr. M.E. Hecht, with her friend Whoopi Goldberg lending her unique point of view, Two Old Broads is laugh out loud funny and tells it like it is for all of us who left middle age in the dust and want to be present, positive, and as extraordinary as ever in our golden years. Whoopi joins Dr. Hecht in a lively conversation about growing older with no apologies. Dr. Hecht, who passed away a few short months prior to publication, shares her 93 years of wisdom with Whoopi and their fellow “broads.” 240 pp

JULY 11

The Night Watchman by Louise Erdrich 2020

Winner of the 2021 Pulitzer Prize for fiction. Based on the extraordinary life of National Book Awardwinning author Louise Erdrich’s grandfather who worked as a night watchman and carried the fight against Native dispossession from rural North Dakota all the way to Washington, D.C., this powerful novel explores themes of love and death with lightness and gravity and unfolds with the elegant prose, sly humor, and depth of feeling of a master craftsman. 464 pp.

Taiwan 101: Essential Sights, Hikes and Experiences on Ilha Formosa

by Richard Saunders

Taiwan is a perfect illustration of the saying that good things come in small packages. In comparison with more popular tourist destinations in the Far East, Taiwan is very modest in size, but despite its diminutive scale, the island has an astonishing amount to offer the curious explorer.

The two volumes that make up Taiwan 101 are the perfect guide for exploring the very best of Taiwan: not only the island’s finest hikes, but also its best historic towns and cities, brightest traditional festivals, unique Chinese and aboriginal cultural riches, and its little-known natural wonders such as eternal flames, mud volcanoes and badlands.

Together, Taiwan 101 Volumes 1 and 2 present Taiwan’s finest attractions to anyone who wishes to get to know this island of kaleidoscopic charms, and comes with detailed information on getting around by public transport, and accurate GPS coordinates of nearly 800 fascinating places.

A Jaunt to Jiaming Lake (嘉明湖)

Have you climbed Jade Mountain? How many Bai Yues (mountains over 3,000m) have you done? In Taiwan, these are common questions related to hiking locations. Today I'd like to throw a lake into the mix: Jiaming Lake to be precise. At 3310m it's the second-highest lake in Taiwan

(Cuichi Lake is the highest) and it's in the Xiangyang National Forest. This is a wonderful one or two-night excursion depending on where you start from. However, you must apply for a permit for this hike so don't just turn up at the trailhead ready to go, advance preparation is required.

I visited this area last month with

a group of friends and we had a fun three-day trip. We arrived at the trailhead around 2 pm and hiked for about three hours through woodland before reaching Xiangyang Cabin. This section of the hike was a relatively gradual uphill walk through trees dripping with moss and lichen and the odd glimpse of mountains through the forest and clouds. The cabin was quite simple: rows of bunks with individual mats and sleeping bags provided. The squat toilets were in a separate building and were basic but clean. The food was good with a selection of dishes and lashings of ginger tea. Due to the long day, cold temperature (around 5 degrees) and no electricity we were all in bed by 8 pm and determined to stay there until the morning to avoid the outdoor bathroom … and bears!

On the second day, we set off at around 5 am to hike up to the Jiaming Lake Cabin at 3,350m. The sun was not exactly rising, but light appeared quickly so we didn’t need our head

The adventurers: (from left) Guide Dory, Abbey, Lucy, Yumi & Jeanette

TEXT: LUCY TORRES IMAGES: LUCY TORRES, DORY CHUNG

torches. This was the steepest section of the hike and was challenging due to the heavy backpack and the altitude. After passing the Xiangyang Tree - a hardy pine that must be hundreds of years old and stands out as it's much taller than the scrub around it, even at just two meters - the mist rolled in and the view totally disappeared. So, it was something of a relief to arrive at the second cabin around 9 am. We had a brief rest and then set off to find the lake with just a day bag, which was much easier. This section of the hike is more like rolling hills. After a couple of hours hiking with white walls of fog on either side, rays of sunshine started poking through. Every now and again the clouds blew open and we glimpsed

mountains all around us, so we knew we really were up high. We finally reached the lake around 12 and the fog obliged by clearing enough to give us a full view of the lake and mountains nearby.

The lake itself had a wide brown rim as the water level was quite low. So the nickname Angel’s Tear Drop didn’t quite fit but it was still beautiful. We walked down to the edge of the lake but did no more than dip our fingers in as it was rather cold. We then enjoyed lunch with a lake view and recharged our batteries for the return journey. As soon as we set off the fog rolled in again and the views disappeared. We still ventured up to the top of Mount Sancha at 3,496m so we could say we had done one of

Taiwan’s Bai Yue. However, we didn’t linger as there was no view and then we headed back to the cabin as it was already a pretty chilly 8 degrees. This cabin is also very simple with rows of bunks and toilets in a separate building. However, a mix of high altitude and cold air meant snuggling in the sleeping bag was the obvious option and everyone was happy with an early lights-out time. On day 3 we set off at sunrise and this time the sun did rise and the hike down to the trailhead was totally different from our ascent. We could see the mountain ranges all around us and we were impressed with the ground we

Bai Yue 28: Mount Sancha

The Xiangyang Tree

had covered! We had spectacular views down to the sea of clouds hovering over the valley. I spotted various wild flowers daring to bloom, including the first rhododendrons of the season, and we came across a family of monkeys also taking in the sunshine. We arrived back at the trailhead full of the joys of

spring and happy to have had a few days of fresh air.

You could do this hike, a total of 26 km, with one night on the mountain but we opted for two to take it more slowly and get used to the altitude. Just bear in mind that you can’t guarantee good weather so be prepared for all

four seasons! We left Taipei at 7 am on Sunday morning and drove down to Chishang on the east coast, enjoying views of the bright green rice paddies, before heading inland and up through Wulu Gorge to the trailhead which is close to the 155 km marker on Southern Cross-Island Highway. We were back in Taipei around 7 pm on Tuesday evening. If you’re looking for a short hiking getaway then this is a good option and I can highly recommend our guide Dory Chung, or, as I call her, Dory the Explorer.

(

facebook.com/ExplorewithDory/ )

In the meantime, I shall start investigating how to get to Cuichi Lake … if I’ve made it to the second highest lake then clearly the only way is up!

Lucy Torres is the Programs Manager at The Center and enjoys organising different activities and events that cover topics from Taiwanese culture to environmental awareness.

The Happy Fisherman

When I first heard of ‘The Happy Fisherman’ I was intrigued. Aren't all fishermen happy? What was special about this one? When I checked the YouTube series of that name hosted by Taiwan Plus, I discovered the person behind the name, Leo Seewald. I was told by a friend that Leo was a great guy and easy to talk to. So I reached out and we had a lovely conversation.

Leo is originally from Canada and has made Taiwan his home for the last ten years or so. He became a Taiwanese citizen in 2019. After a successful career in finance he has now mostly retired from his corporate life to become a local fisherman.

TEXT: ROMA MEHTA IMAGES: LEO SEEWALD

Leo’s new fishing boat, “The Happy Fisherman”, classified as a “CT1” 50’ and powered by a 405hp Yanmar diesel.

WHAT MADE YOU START ON THIS JOURNEY AS A FISHERMAN?

“It was a logical evaluation of the situation. I had a boat in Taiwan for ten years. I retired 4 years ago in 2019, then I became a Taiwanese. Operating a yacht in Taiwan is problematic, there are lots of rules around it. You have to get permission to visit all the harbors and ports, and yachting is very expensive. So instead I decided to become a fisherman and I am probably

the only Taiwanese fisherman of western origin. I took the exam, I got a license and can now dock at any of Taiwan’s fishing harbors.

Then I realized there are 230+ fishing harbors in Taiwan, and guessed that no Taiwanese fisherman has been to all of them (they have to fish, after all), so I decided it might be a good thing to explore all of them.

At this point I am documenting every harbor, not only from a cultural and

historical perspective, but also talking to the fishermen, listening to their stories, and capturing the flavor of the harbor and area. What kind of food is available there? I have a co producer, and a camera crew that follows me. The show launched in January 2022 and I then bought a boat a few months later made in Penghu. The people I have met on this journey are fantastic and like all Taiwanese people, they were very friendly and helpful.

The show is not strictly scripted, it is very spontaneous. We just meet people and talk to them about their stories. Many times I go out and I catch

The bridge of Leo’s fishing boatpowered by Garmin

A successful fishing trip!

nothing. I can be out for 24 hours and throw out a 10 kilometer net and only catch 4 fish. I’ve been 70 nautical miles offshore. It is more about the journey and what I’m discovering through that journey, and the experience rather than catching fish.”

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED ON THIS JOURNEY?

“When I started my journey as a fisherman in Taiwan, what struck me most is that fishing is not just a job - it is a profession. It’s not a nine to five: if the fish are in season and weather is not dangerous you go out - period; and you don’t come back until you have covered your costs. It is demanding, dangerous and harsh and you’re always at the mercy of nature.”

Fishing is one of the most humbling professions. Unpredictable, but rewarding: you experience nature at its best and at its worst. It has been more than ten years that Leo has been exploring the waters around this island - mostly with his yacht. He has been through good and hard times, and has seen a lot. This journey however, is a whole new challenge; a little more deliberate and taking him to further destinations. This summer, he plans to sail to Mazu and Kinmen with his fishing boat.

THE PROJECT

Leo’s love for Taiwan, its people, and its culture is apparent in his stories. Each episode is about the food, the culture and the stories of the fishermen at each port he stops at. Leo hopes that through these travels around the island, people can appreciate Taiwan from another perspective.

His goal is basically to show something different about Taiwan through this documentation. Up to date he has visited about 45 harbors. Last year in Singapore the show won the Best Lifestyle Program in Taiwan for the Asian Academy Creative Awards. This year in New York it was nominated as a runner up for best lifestyle program in the New York Television Festival. Not an easy feat for a show that is only one year old!

Foreigners and Taiwanese often overlook the beauty of Taiwan, especially from the ocean, but this show has touched people. It is Leo’s hope to show people (both foreigners and Taiwanese alike) things they did not know about Taiwan in each episode.

“I fall in love anew at every harbor I visit. Keelung is one of my favorite harbors, with the largest fish market in the country from midnight to four in the morning- most people don’t even know that!

I love this expedition, it’s all about the journey, and life is a journey to discover yourself as you go. I was a financial person. I never had anything to do with social media, I never imagined I would become a youtuber. I would have laughed if you had said that even 3 years ago. I don’t even like watching my own show.”

You

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLu WDtoKIa7WLv2e8GbjkPX3zBY7ccL-eI

Roma is a creative consultant, visual artist and event organizer. She enjoys organizing events and workshops that foster cross-cultural expression.

The film crew. They make it all possible and are the reason the show has such great shots!

We Bought A Temple

TEXT: FAYE ANGEVINE IMAGES: COURTESY OF BAI WIN COLLECTION

Tszfeng Temple is the oldest and the largest Matsu temple in Pingtung. Built in 1737, the temple has a history of almost 285 years. In 1983, the grand temple burned down in a fire and subsequently had to be torn down for reconstruction. Bai Win was given the opportunity to purchase the temple ceramic figurines on the roof and in the central room. Buying a temple was no easy task. The figurines were wired and cemented to the temple so required very careful and meticulous removal.

Luckily Baiwin had some very talented carpenters and painters who were willing to spend 5 days slowly but surely removing these figurines piece by piece. Because of some superstition about females not being allowed on the roof, I sat on a little perch on the building next door watching every move of the team.

The figurines that were rescued by Bai Win are the cultural heritage of Taiwan. They used to stand on the roof of the Pingtung Tszfeng Temple as guardians of the deities and as protectors against evil spirits.

Who made these figurines?

It is unknown who made these figurines. It could have been Yeh Wang who was the first master potter to make koji pottery in Taiwan. He was born in 1826 and died in 1887. Most of his works are in Tainan and Chiayi. Or it could have been Hong Kung Fu and his apprentices. Hong was born in 1865 in Xiamen. He followed his master Yeh Wang to Taiwan to help restore the Feng Tian Temple of Xingang. He later developed his career in Taiwan with more and more apprentices following in his steps.

When the ceramics were still on the roof

Faye Angevine first set foot in Taiwan over 40 years ago with the intention of studying law. But her love of collecting antiques, which started as a hobby, soon became an all-consuming passion. Faye travels extensively throughout China, combing through dusty warehouses and wandering through remote villages in search of new additions for the perfect to BaiWin’s collection. https://baiwincollection.com/

About Jiao-jer Pottery交趾陶

Jiao-jer is a type of “soft” or lowtemperature pottery whose splendid glazes distinguish it as the “jewelry of glazed pottery”. Jiao-jer evolved from “Tang Sung” pottery. Its tricolor (green, red and yellow) glazes were developed during the Liao period of the Sung era in Jiao-jer, in the southern part of Kwangtung. At its peak during the Qing dynasty, this pottery came to be known by its place of origin.

During the Qing dynasty, Yeh-wang, a native of Chia-yi, and his apprentices brought this art home to Taiwan. When he started out, Yeh-wang’s work featured red and black glazes, the black formed by a mixture of red and green pigments. As his skill matured, the tricolor glazes became more distinguishable. Eventually he added blue and peach to his pallet.

It was from that period that Jiao-jer pottery became rooted in Taiwan and later bloomed into a brilliant folk art that we now regard as a cultural heritage.

Jiao-jer pottery is shaped one piece at a time, painted, glazed and fired to perfection. It is renowned for its detailed craftsmanship. Since ancient times, Jiao-jer has been used for temple statuary and talisman plaques. The attention to detail and antiquarian aura continue to lend appropriate solemnity to temples and shrines. It has also become a favorite of collectors.

What distinguishes the figures from Pingtung Matsu Temple is that they have managed to maintain their brilliance over time. Even though they are slightly faded, they were most likely made of a porcelain and pottery mix and fired at a higher temperature.

Niwa Maibut

— an ambassador for global language, Indigenous identity in Taiwan

live permanently five years ago, is now conveniently able to reconnect with a physical place she ventured off from at a young age, while also maintaining her relationship with a culture and people she never left behind.

Today, on March 18, Maibut gathers her bags from the car upon arriving home in Pasikau and heads inside, after a vocal greeting, to assist her mother in dressing for today’s Bunun Ear Shooting Festival (She’erji), a festival that takes place once a year in every Bunun village, once a year at the county level, and once a year across the entire island.

Maibut emphasizes a clear awareness of this power at a young age, influenced both by her mother and memories passed down of her father, but also internally fueled by a desire to connect with other people and places around the world.

Atwenty-minute car ride north from the city of Taitung, Taiwan, is the Indigenous village of Taoyuan, often referred to in the Bunun language by Indigenous residents as Pasikau.

Pass under the village gate and a newly opened 7-Eleven, the Pasikau Presbyterian Church, a sprinkling of breakfast joints, and the occasional dog and neighbor precede the route to Niwa Maibut’s childhood home, situated on the corner of the Pasikau village, now home to nearly 1,300 residents.

Maibut, having returned to Taitung to

Maibut wears a black, tight-sleeve shirt with embroidered piping, while her mother, Mua, chooses to pair her top with a long black skirt and a headpiece, decorated with metal jewelry and vibrant piping.

If I’m going to attend, I must wear the full-body traditional dress, Mua tells Maibut.

A wood-covered patio joins the Maibut family’s two homes together; one where her mother and sister, Ibu, live and the neighboring house where her sister-in-law and children reside. Maibut’s father, Adian, passed away before she was three years old and her brother, Adul, ten years ago, leaving the Maibut home mostly female, along with her male nephew.

“I was brave when I was young,” she said.

Maibut’s teen years aligned with the lifting of Martial Law in Taiwan, a period of 38 years (1949-1987) in which the Kuomintang-led government implemented drastic and violent forms of security regulations throughout the island, including but not limited to, the regulation of newspaper and magazines, the denial of free speech in any language but Mandarin Chinese, and the suppression and forced assimilation of Indigenous peoples and culture on the island.

The lifting of Martial Law in 1987, when Maibut was just 15 years old, opened a long road ahead for Taiwanese people, especially Indigenous peoples, while also allowing

TEXT: MACKENZIE MILLER IMAGES: MACKENZIE MILLER & ‘VOICES IN THE CLOUDS‘ CREW

“Here, women are very powerful,” Maibut said. “Our women are encouraged to speak. In my village, we are allowed to say who we are.”

for Indigenous acknowledgement and emerging engagement of such identities with the outside world.

“When I was little, a lot of people were helped by World Vision [International],” Maibut said. “People would line up at the church waiting for the gifts that had been sent. I would line up too, but none of the gifts ever had my name on them.”

Maibut laughs, noting that she couldn’t have received any gifts then, because she hadn’t signed up for the program, as her mom often reminded her of at the time.

“But imagine what it was like back then to get something from the United States, from Canada,” Maibut said.

Maibut drives ten minutes from her house to the site of today’s Bunun Ear Shooting Festival, a tradition that once served as a coming of age ritual for boys, as well as an important hunting ceremony. Now, using guns, rather than bow and arrow, and stuffed animals, rather than pigs, the ceremony serves as a way to remember and re-enact the history of Bunun people, for locals and spectators alike.

“[The locals] practice their culture and make money out of it,” Maibut says of modern-day Indigenous ceremonies. “Not a bad idea, not a good idea, but that’s just how it has worked out.”

Maibut’s response reflects what appears to be her stance towards life: preserve what you can, adapt to or change what you can’t.

She stops at the entrance of the grass venue for today’s festival to vote on a

referendum asking the government to approve an official name change of the village back to its original Indigenous name, Pasikau. Then she’s off to greet one person after another, including cousins, aunts, uncles and a handful of neighbors.

Between tutoring English in the evenings in Taitung and commuting to nearby villages three times a week for her job as a Green-Care Lecturer with Taitung St. Mary’s Catholic Hospital, where she leads locally and Earthinspired classes for the elderly, Maibut still makes a point to return to her village every weekend, or more when possible.

Maibut’s connection to her village pays nod to a key principle she and her neighbors in Pasikau share: 全村共教養 (Quancun Gong Jiaoyang).

Success for Maibut, she acknowledges, was no different: a community affair with doors first opening for her through the help of World Vision International, a Christian humanitarian aid, development, and advocacy organization that first came to Taiwan in 1964.

“One day I just went to the [World Vision International] office in the village and asked how I could sign up, but they needed my mom’s signature,” Maibut said.

She convinced the office her mom had approved and signed up that day. Years later, her mom chuckles about Maibut’s stubbornness, but never once objected to it.

Maibut and her mother, Mua, in traditional Bunun clothing

In the Xiaoma village, Maibut introduces the benefits of burning a bunch of Asian mugwort atop a slice of ginger to help with blood flow.

“If one child is successful or advances in a field, the entire community succeeds and was involved in getting them there,” Maibut translated. “It takes a whole village to raise a kid.”

“I was lucky to have received help from so many different people,” Maibut said.

At age 10, the person who would most influence the next 20 years of her life was Arnold Anderson, a World War II veteran and native of England. Through World Vision International, Maibut received 50 Euros a month from Anderson, equivalent to about 2,500 New Taiwan Dollars at the time. But her future would soon be influenced beyond any monetary amount.

Waiting for the Bunun Ear Shooting Festival to begin, Maibut continues to mingle, quickly eyeing a group of international students sitting quietly in the stands; she approaches.

Maibut left Taiwan for the first time at 19, but what began as a trip to England, soon turned in to the next, a trip to India with her Presbyterian church, a summer trip opportunity to New York to study English education, weeks spent in the Philippines and the Southwest United States advocating

for Indigenous rights on a global scale; and of course, visiting Arnold Anderson, who Maibut refers to as her “British daddy” and who her nephew is now named after.

“I was able to link my Taiwanese Indigenous identity with other Indigenous peoples,” Maibut said.

“I was more like a hippie, but a very rational hippie,” Maibut says, who began to go by the name Jennifer at the time. “Back then, I thought I was Jennifer Lopez.”

3 The “Classroom of Hope” sign that hangs outside of the Maibut family home

5 Maibut during the filming of “Voices in the Clouds”

The venue for the 2023 Bunun Ear Shooting Festival

With a broader view of the world and increasingly better English language ability, Maibut followed the path that her brother and sister, being too old for World Vision, never had the opportunity to; but, no one in Maibut’s family questioned her desire to go.

“Like I said, I was brave when I was young,” she said.

After graduating with a bachelor’s degree in English from Christ College (Taipei) and being accepted to Long Island University (New York) in 1998, Maibut’s brother Adul sold off a piece of family land in order to pay for her tuition.

“Now when I look back, maybe I was a bit selfish and naive,” Maibut said. But the many people she crossed paths with along the way feel otherwise.

Maibut mentions her friend, Heather, who first came to Taiwan for a summer exchange program in college and who Niwa then reunited with when she spent a summer at Geneva College (New York). This summer, Heather’s daughter will arrive in Taiwan under

the guidance of Maibut, who will pass along a valuable characteristic of Bunun culture.

“You always have a father or mother from different clans taking care of you,” she said.

At the festival, Maibut heads towards the group of international visitors and plops herself down in between two students, who she soon learns are visiting Taiwan from Colgate University (New York). They have come to experience the Bunun Ear Shooting Festival, and Maibut makes sure to lean over and introduce each component of the reenactment as it begins, using her English language ability to build a bridge between two cultures.

“Back then, I thought that I would like to be an English teacher,” Maibut said. “Early on, the desire was to be able to communicate with him [Arnold], and then he wouldn’t need to pay for a translator when he visited. Later, my motivation changed; I wanted to be a tour guide.”

Never officially a tour guide, but

First published in Indigenous Bridges https://indigenousbridges.blogspot.com/2023/04/niwa-maibutambassador-for-global.html

Indigenous Bridges https://www.indigenousbridges.org/ Transforming Lives + Revitalizing Communities: Bridging Connections of Indigenous Culture + Wisdom

always a bridge-builder, Maibut pulls from her previous and current experiences of life to educate herself and others. “He [Maibut’s dad] knew it would be hard for our people to live in the modern world if we didn’t go out to study and to explore; knowledge is power, knowledge is wisdom, knowledge is property,” she said.

Having visited 15 countries, Maibut has almost 4,000 friends on Facebook and holds a master’s degree in Teaching English as a Second Language from Long Island University and is currently working towards a certificate in social work and public administration. When her schedule allows, Maibut attends a Bible study lecture series at a nearby church.

“Those at the church wanted me to eventually help with some translations or English lessons, but I can’t use a language to teach what I don’t know,” Maibut said. Though she herself is Presbyterian, she alludes to the more abstract theology of Christianity.

For Maibut, learning never stops.

“I had a lot of thoughts back then, and I wasn’t afraid to listen to them and move on, I think that’s the key point,” she said.

In 2006, Maibut appeared in Oscar Kightley and Nathan Rarer’s documentary, “Made in Taiwan,” which explored the ocean voyages of her Pacific ancestors before their arrival in Taiwan. And in 2009, Maibut was featured in the film “Voices in the Clouds,” which follows Tony Coolidge, founder of Indigenous Bridges, on his journey to uncover the Indigenous heritage of his deceased mother.

Mackenzie Miller, originally from Pennsylvania, United States, currently resides in Hualien, Taiwan, where she is pursuing a master’s degree in ethnic relations and culture at National Dong Hwa University with scholarship aid from the Fulbright U.S. Student Program. Mackenzie eagerly explores Indigenous culture in Taiwan through an anthropological lens. She is an invested storyteller, passionate about grounding narratives in the overlooked voices of others as a tool for cultural and linguistic preservation.

Maibut and mother, Mua, dress for the Bunun Ear Shooting Festival

Lutetia ART-at-TAC June/July Exhibition 6

June 2 - July 31, 2023 Shan Shan Solo Exhibition 姍姍個展

In June, Lutetia ART-at-TAC is delighted to present an exhibition of enchanting and highly skilled sketches by Taiwanese artist Shan Shan 姍姍

For her first solo exhibition, Shan Shan invites the viewer into the world of urban cats through hyper-realistic black and white sketches of cats and their surroundings. Done in graphite, charcoal and ink, Shan Shan’s images are charming snapshots of the little moments in life that bring the viewer sparks of joy, with which all pet owners can resonate.

Citing Scottish artist Paul Cadden

as an influence, Shan Shan’s works demonstrate impressive skills in depicting realistic details using mechanical pencils and fine-point markers. Be it cats’ whiskers, their soft fur, or the reflections of light on hard surfaces, Shan Shan’s sensitive observation and meticulous rendering capture her obvious delights in the endless possibilities of feline mannerisms and expressions. Upon seeing her work there is often a moment of wonder - is this a photograph or a sketch? Furthermore, she uses candid compositions evocative of street photography to bring

TEXT: JESSICA WANG SIMULA IMAGES: SHAN SHAN

spontaneity to these images. The cats are always depicted from an intimate point of view in familiar settings of everyday urban life: grocery shops, book stores and apartment blocks. More than pictures of cats, Shan Shan’s works are vignettes of life in Taiwan.

Shan Shan’s infatuation with cats began in her childhood and has continued throughout her life. Born and raised in Taipei, Shan Shan has always been artistic and at a young age often took part in art competitions. After graduating from Fushin Trade and Arts School, she took a hiatus from art-making. She only picked up the paint brush again when her beloved pet passed away - she painted to keep the pet’s memories alive. A few years later, with encouragement from her family, she decided to start drawing and painting again. She chose graphite and ink as her media because of their technical challenges and the required attention for detail.

Shan Shan makes us smile. The mischievous behaviours and curious world of cats in the city are perfectly represented to invite the viewer to take time out and enjoy. Sometimes it is not the grand statements that move us, but the little moments in life.

Jessica Wang Simula was born in Taiwan but has lived in six different countries since adolescence before relocating back to Taiwan with her family over three years ago. Having worked in the arts in Shanghai and London, she is interested in how the arts can start new conversations, build communities and connect people.

Lutetia ART-at-TAC 751 Wenlin Road, Shilin Dist., Taipei Opening event on Friday, June 2, 5:30pm to 8:30pm. All welcome.

“Drifting Paris” Cédric Alviani (Von Taipei) Raw Snapshots 2018-2020

Anew tide of clandestine posters sweep across the walls framing the Parisian boulevards every day. Quickly outdated and quickly replaced, these colorful placards compete in a cacophony of exuberant slogans, singing virtues of the latest electronic gadgets, fashion brands and theatrical shows. Day after day, their voices and faces are superimposed with a thick layer of paper and glue, which swells and shrinks under the relentless pasting-ups and tearing-downs.

Washed out, soggy, warped by the sun and rain, torn and smeared by vandals, the pictures have become distorted as if seen through a prism of moving water. The fading yellows and magentas, mixed with traces of glue, form a foam and blue tint that deepens the impression of the marine landscape.

The degradation does not spare the characters whose lives are bound inside the images. Their elegance and sensuality, their joy for life, have given way to the bitterness and rage of the oppressed, to the despair of a drowning man. In this ocean of paper and glue, bodies and faces gasp for air, their drifting souls cry out to passers-by begging for help.

Uptown in the “City of Lights”, where the scent of urine often masks even the most poignant of chic perfumes, these incongruent scraps of consumerist society have taken on an element of subversion. The resilience of these paper ghosts create an echo of the innumerable homeless who, just as invisible but very much alive, lining the walls of the Parisian boulevards.

In the far reaches of Cédric Alviani’s visual universe, the worlds of Art Brut and urban poetry converge. This artist, who for two decades has divided his time between Europe and Asia, is also a familiar figure in the Taiwanese underground rock scene.

TEXT & IMAGES: CEDRIC ALVANI

Exhibition dates:

April to June 2023

Red Room Rendezvous

No. 252, Section 2, Keelung Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106

July to October 2023

Alliance Française

2f, No. 107, Section 4, Roosevelt Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106

Seiji Kamei Taiwan Street Scenes

Photography has been my hobby and passion since I was a young boy. On my 12th birthday, my parents gave me a Minolta camera. While taking pictures of family and friends, I was amazed that photos have the ability to capture special moments, and to encapsulate our memories for our future.

When I discovered the famous photographer Robert Capa, I was inspired by his work, especially his book “Slightly Out Of Focus”. He became my hero. I thought the life of a photographer was very exciting and photography became my dream job.

Now, as an airline pilot, I have the opportunity to pursue my love of photography around the world.

TEXT & IMAGES: SEIJI KAMEI

Tribal Canoe Journey “Our Journey IV”

TEXT & IMAGES: INDIGENOUSBRIDGES

Our Journey IV Charity Benefit Concert

SUNDAY

JULY 9, 2023

AT 3 PM

MFA Volkswagens

Sports Park. Daxing St. (near Beitou MRT)

Indigenous Bridges (https://indigenousbridges.org/) will resume our travels to join the Native Americans and First Nations people in the Tribal Canoe Journey. "Our Journey IV" will depart Taiwan in mid July.

Indigenous Bridges assists with introductions of indigenous people. Now that COVID is over, we will resume our participation in the Pacific Northwest Tribal Canoe Journey. This year, "Our Journey IV" will feature introductions of one of our Youth Ambassadors to the Journey. He will meet with our American Natives, First Nation friends and Youth Ambassadors from around the world.

We will also have a gathering of these Youth Ambassadors at The Burke Museum on the campus of the University of Washington. An elder will accompany us on our journey as well.

Our Youth Ambassador Program enables young adults to participate in exchanges with other youth throughout the world. We look forward to meeting friends from the Marshall Islands, Naru, Tuvalu, New Zealand and Hawaii in Seattle this summer.

There will be a fundraising concert and soccer tournament to help cover the cost of "Our Journey IV".

Support indigenous youth through their journey of transformation and empowerment

More details here: https://indigenousbridges.org/fundraise.php