A MONUMENTAL MOMENT
The newest National Monument is a great asset for the Continental Divide Trail PLUS Reflections on the trail from a 2022 CDT Trail Blazer
Passages Continental Divide Trail Coalition
Volume 28 , Winter 2022
FIELD SEASON, RECAPPED Celebrating a year of trail improvements THE COLORS OF COLORADO
A pigment artist shares insights into their work Holidays gifts, simplified! Check out our 2023 gift guide!
The Continental Divide Trail Coalition’s mission is to complete, promote, and protect the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. CDTC is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, and donations to CDTC are tax-deductible to the fullest extent allowed by law. To donate, visit our website at www.continentaldividetrail.org.
Continental Divide Trail Passages is published three times a year for the members of the Continental Divide Trail Coalition. Membership begins at $5 per year. Members are encouraged to submit story ideas and photographs for inclusion in Passages to the editor at communications@continentaldividetrail.org.
CDTC STAFF
Zack Bumgarner
New Mexico Field Technician
Dan Carter Trail and Lands Conservation Program Manager
Luke Fisher
Trail Policy Program Manager
Allie Ghaman Communications Manager
Jackie Horne
Trail Information and Membership Coordinator
Lauren Hendricks GIS Program Manager
Teresa Martinez Executive Director
Allie McCurry Development Coordinator
Lauren Murray Director of Development
Steven Shattuck Director of Finance and HR
Liz Schmit Community and Outreach Program Manager
Callie Smith Community Engagement Coordinator
Corey Torivio New Mexico Regional Representatitve
Jordan Williams
Colorado Conservation Fellow
Kylie Yang Field Programs Manager
CDTC BOARD
Greg Pierce, President
Kathleen Lynch, Vice President
Don Owen, Secretary
Dean Myerson, Treasurer
Tom Phillips
Jo Pegrum Hazelett
Arthur Foley
Nick Martinez
Barney Mann
Amy McCormick
Clancy Clark
Amiththan Sebarajah
Amy Camp
Mike Ksenyak
Ben Gabriel
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COVER PHOTO BY ROBERTO FLORES BACK COVER PHOTO BY MORGAN ANDERSON CONNECTING THE COMMUNITY THAT SUPPORTS THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE NATIONAL SCENIC TRAIL 4 Executive Director’s Letter 5 Trail Administrator’s Letter 6 Trail Tidbits 8 Holiday Gift Guide 10 Making of a Monument 15 Trail Completion Update 18 A Year in the Field 30 Face From the Divide 34 Capturing Colorado’s Colors 36 Closer to the Wild Side 40 Supporters, Sponsors, and Partners 46 The Terminus PAGE 3
DAN VARDAMIS
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S LETTER
Dear friends,
A warm winter welcome from the Coalition! I hope this edition of Passages finds all of you and your loved ones healthy and able to enjoy some slower days over the next few months. What a year it has been. As we close out our first decade of work on behalf of the CDT, I can honestly say, it’s been a GREAT year and a phenomenal decade!
The highlight for me was meeting the President of the United States during the Camp Hale – Continental Divide National Monument designation. The designation of over 25 miles of the CDT as part of the National Monument in itself was a major accomplishment, the CDTC being included and recognized by the Biden administration for our work to protect the Camp Hale and Continental Divide landscape was thrilling, and being invited to meet with the President following the designation ceremony was absolutely mind blowing!
Who would have thought that from our humble beginnings 10 years ago, we would be on a national stage being recognized for our work to protect the CDT and the landscapes, communities and cultures it connects.
It’s been quite a journey for CDTC to arrive at this moment in time. As many know, we began because another organization closed its doors and we knew we couldn’t let this fall on our watch. We were counseled by our good friend and someone I consider a mentor, Glenn “Knip” Knippenberg, who said “if we didn’t do it, the wrong people would.” So Bryan Martin, Kerry Shakarjian, Josh Shusko and I decided we would do this together, and we humbly got to work at Josh’s dining room table. Then, when he and his wife, Lisa, moved to Namibia to become Peace Corps volunteers, we moved “operations” to my dining room table. Because all of us were in various stages of life, and I had the most flexibility, I agreed to be the hub of the wheel with the understanding and commitment that we would only do this as a “we” and an “us.” We agreed to many guiding principles, including that we would keep the Trail and its connecting landscapes and communities first, always stand to scrutiny, be of service to the Trail and the landscapes, communities and cultures it connects, and stay grounded in the grassroots love for the CDT, and always remain focused on demonstrating that it was in the best interest of the American Public to protect the Continental Divide Trail.
As I walked up to shake POTUS’ hand at the designation ceremony, all of a sudden I felt the weight of the past 10 years, and I felt tears beginning to well up inside. I thought of my parents, who passed away 11 years ago. I thought about all the
sacrifices that my friends and family have made so that I could be completely focused on the success of the CDTC. I thought of the many people I have met along the way who have cheered us on, supported us and worked side by side with us. I thought about the first night Bryan, Kerry, Josh and I joked about forming our own non-profit. In a split second it all hit me, and as I met the President, he could tell I was emotional.
As I shook his hand I shared with him, holding back the tears, “my parents were migrant farmers and today, I am here with you.” He immediately understood what I was sharing, and replied, “they’re not with us anymore are they?” I replied, “No, they are buried together in Arlington National Cemetery.” And then he looked at me and said “Well, you’re doing it, girl!” And with that comment the tears started to flow and the magnitude of CDTC’s success hit me, really, for the first time.
This is a “we” movement, and “we” ARE doing it. We really are. And, staying true to our roots, the very next morning we all got back to work, because at CDTC we also don’t rest on our laurels. While there is a time for celebrating, there is still so much to do.
As we begin our second decade of work in service to the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail, as always I remain full of gratitude for all of you who have helped and continue to help us accomplish our mission. As my dad always said, it is indeed noble work, and I am so grateful to do this work with all of you. And it is always my honor to thank you for all you do on behalf of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail.
On behalf of the CDTC Board and Staff, I wish all of you a wonderful Holiday and New Year full of light and laughter and look forward to seeing you on the Trail in 2023!
Teresa Ana Martinez Executive Director Continental Divide Trail Coalition
JACK “QUADZILLA” JONES
TRAIL ADMINISTRATOR’S LETTER
Hello CDT Community!
My name is Ben Lara and I am the new CDT Administrator as of December 5, 2022. I have been working as the temporary CDT Administrator since May, and over the summer I gained a broader appreciation of all the amazing work and partnerships happening along the CDT. I have a strong passion for connecting people to their public lands and building a strong stewardship ethic in the communities I serve, including efforts to engage partners and visitors alike in active, shared stewardship of public lands.
I grew up in Southern Colorado exploring our majestic public lands on the Rio Grande (Colorado) and Carson (New Mexico) National Forests, including hiking and horseback riding sections of the CDT in the southern San Juan Wilderness. These childhood experiences prompted me to attend Colorado State University to pursue a degree in Natural Resource Management, with an emphasis in Recreation and Tourism. After graduation I worked seasonally for the National Park Service in Alaska, and for a small eco-tourism business in La Ceiba, Honduras.
In pursuit of a more year-round career, I began working for a small winery in Napa Valley and became an understudy for one of the most well-respected winemakers in California. It is there that I developed a strong passion for the art of wine making and learned about the strong migrant influence on agriculture in California. With 5 years of winemaking under my belt, I developed an itch to return to school with an interest in connecting underrepresented communities to their public lands through recreation and so pursued a Master’s degree in Recreation at San Francisco State University.
During my time in graduate school I worked with some of the country’s leading social scientists to identify constraints and barriers of underrepresented groups and co-authored a Government Technical Report on Serving Culturally Diverse Visitors to Forests in California. After graduation I worked for the U.S. Forest Service in some amazing communities and natural landscapes across California, Wyoming, Honduras,
Brazil and the Philippines. I finally made my way back to Colorado to serve as the Ranger District Recreation Program Manager in Salida, where I spent the better part of my career facilitating access to national forests in diverse settings and communities.
I am thrilled to be selected to serve in the role as CDT Administrator. The CDT program and community has a rich history of being at the forefront of conservation, recreation and civic stewardship, and I hope to maintain and build upon this strong foundation.
Sincerely, Ben Lara Continental Divide Trail Administrator Forest Service Regions 1,2,3,4 BLM & NPS
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TRAIL TIDBITS
NEW BEGINNINGS AT THE TERMINUS
At the Northern Terminus of the CDT this season, an ending to a journey opened up to new beginnings, as Josh “Kid” Gribble and Elise “SOS (pronounced Sauce” Ott got engaged at the moment of their CDT completion. We caught up with Josh and Elise to hear about their journey as a couple, and the next steps for a pair who have already traveled many miles together.
Q: How did you two meet? Have you hiked other trails together?
We met 3 years ago in 2019 on the PCT in Burney, California. Specifically in a cheap motel room at the end of August. We began hiking together starting in Etna, California and stuck together the rest of the way. We started dating when we arrived back home and moved to Colorado together. Since then, we’ve done some shorter trips before starting the CDT together in 2022.
Q: What is something joyous about hiking together?
Josh really enjoys always having someone to camp and hang out with after a day of hiking. Rarely are we ever truly alone because we almost always have each other. Elise also enjoys knowing that we can hike in our own style all day (aka Josh is way faster) and we can still enjoy each other’s company at camp. It’s also nice to always have someone to hike with on the tougher days or in more nervewracking terrain.
Q: What is something challenging on the trail that you two have overcome? Together, we’ve overcome lots of physical obstacles (exhausting days, big miles and huge climbs), but what sticks out most to us as a challenge when tackling a thru-hike as a couple is giving up the independence of a solo hike. Thru-hiking is inherently a challenge and planning for and managing for yourself in addition to a partner definitely takes extra care.
Q: Do you have any hopes for your next shared adventure?
Right now our next big adventure is the wedding! In addition to that we are actually both planning some solo trips. Josh is excited to hike the AZT at some point, Elise is looking forward to the Wind River High Route and maybe the AT somewhere in the future (Josh has already hiked it). In the meantime, we will almost certainly be doing over nights in Colorado whenever we get the chance.
Josh and Elise, CDTC wishes you all the best!
PHOTOS COURTESY
JOSH GRIBBLE AND ELISE OTT
TRAIL TIDBITS
A LEGACY COMPLETED
A late hiker’s journey has now come to an end, with help from his partner’s mother. Ed “Papi Chulo” Miesen passed from cancer in 2019, with only 55 miles remaining unhiked on his thru-hike on the Continental Divide Trail. In his stead, his partner’s mother, Tracy Dunning, 70, has completed the journey for him.
“It was a joy to talk with the thru-hikers as I completed the trail. Ed was a big supporter of the outdoors completing both the PCT and CDT. His memory and example are a blessing to many,” says Dunning.
In sections, Tracy completed Ed’s missing miles between Berthoud Pass and the CDTC Gateway Community of Grand Lake, CO, ending with an 11-mile trek to summit James Peak in September 2021.
If you knew Ed and like to share any memories from trail with Dunning, she can be reached at TracyLDunning@gmail.com.
PHOTOS
COURTESY TRACY DUNNING
To give give back!
Looking for the perfect gift for your loved ones during this holiday season?
With these gifts, you can buy once and give twice as a portion of each purchase helps support our work to complete, promote, and protect the CDT. Not sure what to get that person who has everything? Make a donation to the CDTC in their honor!
By Callie Smith | CDTC Outreach Coordinator
2023 Gift Box: $60
Show your love of the CDT! Give the gift of our 2023 Gift Box to the CDT lover in your life and they will receive a CDT BUFF®, CDT Yeti Water Bottle, small CDT strip map, CDT/ CDTC stickers, and a CDT LokSak waterproof phone bag.
CDT Osprey Backpack: $55
Looking for the perfect lightweight day pack for all your adventures? Look no further! This pack is sure to fit all your daytime outing needs. Plus 100% of the proceeds from this pack go to support the CDTC in our mission to complete, promote, and protect the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail.
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CDT BUFF: $20 (below)
Fashion meets function with this gorgeous CDT BUFF® featuring some of the most spectacular flora and fauna along the CDT!
National Geographic CDT Wall Map: $20
Trying to find something to give the gearhead in your life who already has too much gear (if there is such a thing)? Well who doesn’t love maps?! Support the CDT with the purchase of this beautiful National Geographic CDT wall map.
The Tent Lab CDT Trowel: $20
CDT YETI Rambler Bottle : $35 (above)
Want to rep the CDT all day long? This CDT branded YETI RAMBLER® 18 OZ BOTTLE is a necessary addition to your morning hike, kayak trips, and daily commutes. Plus, you’ll stay hydrated while supporting the CDT!
Farm to Feet Socks: $24
Doo doo the right thing this holiday season and give the gift of this lightweight trowel! Not only is it perfect for all your backcountry adventures, it’s also an excellent aid to leave no trace backpacking, and its purchase will go to support the CDT!
Keep your feet nice and toasty this winter with the durable CDT Farm to Feet socks! Farm to Feet is a proud supporter of the CDTC and donates 10% of all proceeds from these socks.
ENO hammock: $84.95
Atlas of the CDT : Print Version: Love nerding out on maps? Us too! Expand your understanding of the CDT landscape this holiday season with the Atlas of the CDT. The Atlas of the CDT lets you explore the CDT and its corridor through thematic maps, infograph ics, and narratives that present the landscapes and communities that are connected by the Trail.
Darn Tough CDT Socks: $22
Keep your feet happy with the new CDT Darn Tough socks! Darn Tough socks are known for their comfort, durability, and moisture wicking capabilities, and Darn Tough donates 5% from every CDT sock purchase back to CDTC. Keep your feet happy and protect the trail you love!
ENO hammocks are comfortable, durable, and easily packable making them a great option for a variety of outdoor adventures. For each special edition Continental Divide Trail Hammock they sell, ENO donates $10 to CDTC to help us protect all of the spots you love to hammock!
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Making of a Monument
The Biden administration’s first use of the Antiquities Act was to designate the Camp Hale–Continental Divide National Monument in October 2022. Here’s what that means for the CDT.
By L Fisher | CDTC Trail Policy Program Manager
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In the heart of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, the high traverse of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail through the Tenmile Range offers some of the most spectacular ridgeline views of the entire 3,100-mile trail. Throughout the year, nature and history enthusiasts flock to this area for all the opportunities that the green space has to offer, from hiking and horseback riding on the trails, to learning about the history of the 10th Mountain Division and the beginnings of the U.S. ski industry, to admiring the spring wildflowers and fall foliage. Representing more than just an open space, areas like this tie together the past, present and future of Colorado’s way of life through the stewardship they inspire and the protections that allow them to endure. And thanks to recent action by President Biden and his administration, the preservation of the stories and histories, the opportunities for exploration and education, and the flora and fauna that are inherently connected to this landscape, is more a reality now than ever before.
On October 12th, 2022, President Biden signed “A Proclamation on Establishment of the Camp Hale - Continental Divide National Monument,” officially designating the first National Monument of his tenure. The designation protects 53,804 acres of the Camp Hale—Continental Divide National Monument on Forest System lands, preserving
the area’s natural, cultural and historic values. Included in the resources protected are the historic landscape at Camp Hale, portions of the ecologically important Tenmile Range and more than 20 miles of the world-renowned Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. President Biden’s use of this executive power is the latest in a long tradition of bold conservation action by past U.S. Presidents, with 18 other presidents having used the powers granted to them under the Antiquities Act of 1906 to protect more than 100 sites across the country in the past 115 years.
Colorado leaders including Senators Bennet and Hickenlooper, Governor Polis and Congressman Neguse were joined by veterans, recreationists, business owners, environmental organizations, local leaders and other partners like the Continental Divide Trail Coalition (CDTC) in urging President Biden to use his power to designate the National Monument, when attempts to secure protections legislatively for the area seemed to be at a gridlock in Congress. As one of four priority landscapes identified for protections in the Colorado Outdoor Recreation Economy (CORE) Act, Camp Hale and the Continental Divide have been at the center of locally-led conservation efforts for more than a decade. Other areas included in the CORE Act include the Thompson Divide, the Curecanti National Recreation Area,
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PHOTO BY BRENT FLANDERS
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and the San Juan mountain range. In addition to the National Monument designation, the Biden administration has also committed to a 20-year administrative mineral withdrawal along the Thompson Divide while more scientific research and public input are gathered about the impacts of future action in the area. And while these are significant victories for these locally-led efforts, we hope that this is only the first of many such executive actions taken by President Biden to meet the unprecedented environmental challenges of the moment.
For time immemorial this landscape has been the home of and stewarded by Indigenous peoples whose stories, cultures and ways of life are inherently tied to the preservation of the land, water and vitality of the Continental Divide landscape. Before the Ute were forced off the land taken from them by the U.S. government when precious minerals were discovered, the Tenmile Range was a place to gather in community, collect medicinal plants, hunt migratory wildlife and even travel through seasonal ranges. The cultural value of this landscape and the continued
The Historic Landscape at Camp Hale
The National Monument designation will help to preserve the peaks and valleys that were once home to the famed 10th Mountain Division, which was the Army’s first and only mountain infantry division. The 10th Mountain Division fought in Europe during World War II and were pivotal in conditions that were adverse and at high elevation due to their training and experience in mountain climbing, skiing and cold-weather survival. During the height of its operation, Camp Hale encompassed approximately 1,500 acres and 1,000 buildings, including barracks for 15,000 soldiers. In addition to the barracks and other operational buildings, remnants of the parade grounds, recreation areas, gunnery ranges, ski hills, motor pool and rail yards are still visible today. After the war, veterans of the 10th Mountain Division became the founders and operators of more than 60 ski resorts, some in the very hills surrounding Camp Hale, which served as the foundation for the popularity of winter skiing in the outdoor recreation industry today. Today, the area is well known for its winter recreation opportunities, including backcountry skiing in the Tenmile Range, which includes 10 peaks over 13,000 feet in elevation, as well as the 14,265-foot Quandry Peak, known as one of the most iconic “Fourteeners” travelers on the CDT can experience.
At the time of its operation in the 1940s, Camp Hale was segregated, as were all contemporary U.S. military
importance of these practices for the Ute serves as a stark reminder of why preservation of this place and the leadership offered by Indigenous stewardship must shape the future management of the landscape. The cooperative stewardship model of resources like the CDT, and the Indigenous co-management of places such as Bears Ears National Monument in Utah, demonstrate that the future of community-led conservation lies in the strength of community, representation and collaboration, and not in repeating the exclusionary and harmful management practices that degraded this environment for generations. With this new National Monument, we hope that the future management of this landscape will represent the people who have the most to gain from its protection.
Local leaders, communities and stewardship organizations like CDTC have been at the forefront of this effort, urging for the protections of this place not only for the history that it protects, but also for the future it represents. With benefits reaching far beyond the borders on a map, the opportunity this brings to the people of Colorado and to
operations. Recognizing that this landscape holds a history of exclusion, stakeholders and partners, like CDTC, are excited for a management plan that recognizes this historical context and plans for a more inclusive, collaborative landscape and experience in the future. We believe that as a strategy for future management of this area continues to be developed, the inclusion of Indigenous people, such as the Ute, and from other historically excluded groups, will be a critical component of inclusive stewardship. — L.F.
PHOTO BY CHELA GARCIA-IRLANDO/NEXT
100. INSET
PHOTO BY JON RESNICK.
future generations on the Divide, cannot be overstated. During this time of unprecedented climate change, this National Monument protects the Tenmile Range, which is home to fragile ecosystems that act as the primary habitat and critical migration corridor for many of Colorado’s iconic wildlife. Nearby mountain communities like Leadville, Vail and Frisco depend on this area as a popular hunting and fishing destination, not only for their own wellbeing, but for the visitors and other outdoor enthusiasts that want to experience the remoteness of the Tenmile Range. A survey of CDT Gateway Community Business owners last year showed that 90% of respondents believed protections of land and water are essential to their wellbeing, business and way of life. In a time when open lands and waters are more popular than ever, this National Monument is a direct investment in the communities of the Divide that depend on a healthy environment not only for the water they drink and the air they breathe, but for their businesses to thrive, bringing visitors from around the world to experience Colorado’s natural wonders.
One of the most valuable treasures on the continent, the 18-inch tread of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail is the common thread, weaving together a chain of fragile and biodiverse landscapes, unique and colorful communities, and dynamic cultures and ways of life, over the entirety of its 3,100 miles.
This most recent addition, now interwoven into the CDT Experience, the Camp Hale—Continental Divide National Monument is a jewel of conservation, offering a glimpse at the past, present and future of the CDT and illustrating the
potential of a connected Divide landscape for the prosperity of future generations. Together, our hope is that the CDT can continue to act as that common thread, tying together every story, every step and every space of the landscape to inspire action that is urgently needed so that all people–of all backgrounds, ages, experiences and interests–can not only enjoy, but thrive along the Divide.
CDT Completion Act
In September 2022 the Continental Divide Trail Completion Act was introduced to the U.S. Senate by Senator Heinrich (D-New Mexico) and Senator Daines (R-Montana). This bipartisan piece of legislation will help support the agencies, partners and local communities involved to coordinate the stewardship of lands where gaps still exist along the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail (CDT), prioritizing completion by the Trail’s 50th anniversary in 2028. While similar to the H.R. 5118 introduced by Congressman Neguse last year, there are some updates to the language in the version recently introduced to the Senate.
A HIKER WALKS ALONG A DUSTY STRETCH OF ROAD NEAR PIE TOWN, NM, WHERE A 40-MILE TRAIL GAP PERSISTS. PHOTO COURTESY OF DAN CARTER.
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With this new National Monument, we hope that the future management of the landscape will represent the people who have the most to gain from its protection.
TRAIL COMPLETION UPDATE
By Dan Carter | CDTC Trail Lands Program Manager
Recent Accomplishments and Updates
NEW MEXICO TRAIL CONDITION ASSESSMENTS
This summer CDTC hired a Field Technician to complete trail condition assessments on USFS lands in New Mexico. This first year served as a pilot program to see what this position and process could look like. These assessments are critical for updating the agency’s maintenance database. The field technician used a platform called eTRACS, which was developed by the forest service. Using eTRACS in the field has also been very helpful for refining and debugging the app and process. The assessments will update USFS records on trail maintenance needs. The updated records will then feed into deferred maintenance proposals funded by the Great American Outdoors Act (GAOA). On top of the deferred maintenance, the assessments will also highlight needs for improving trailheads, signage, impacts to the trail and an accurate center line. With such a successful trial this year in New Mexico, we plan to bring the field technician position back in 2023 to continue surveys in other CDT states.
COMPLETION continued on page 16
Currently 95% complete, the remaining 160 of the 3,1000 miles of trail represent gap sections where those seeking a continuous footpath from Mexico to Canada are diverted onto busy roadways and highways. These gap sections not only make for a less enjoyable, less natural experience, but make for a less safe experience as well, for trail travelers and motorists alike. Over the past decade, land managers, volunteers, community organizations and groups like CDTC have worked diligently to bring completion of the trail from 35% incomplete in 2009, to just 5% incomplete in 2022. With public lands more popular than ever before, now is the time to continue to push for completion!
The legislation directs the Secretaries of Agriculture and Interior to create a Trail Completion Team, tasked with completing the CDT through collabroa-
tion with CDTC, Indigenous communities and Native Nations, recreationists, CDT Gateway Communities, private landowners, and others. The CDT Completion Act explicitly states that eminent domain will not be used, in keeping with the values of the cooperative stewardship model that allows the National Trail System to thrive. Funding for completion of the CDT is made possible by the full funding of the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) thanks to the passage of the Great American Outdoors Act in 2020. As CDTC continues to work toward completion of the CDT, we hope all in our trail community will continue to come to the Divide as a place to unite in our shared work!
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PHOTO COURTESY OF ZACK BUMGARNER
ADDRESSING MAJOR GAPS
Trail completion in the major gap areas continued to make progress in 2022. As we draw near the end of the year, the Optimal Location Reviews (OLR) for Cuba, NM, and Muddy Pass, CO, are nearing completion. The OLRs will clearly outline the gap issues, alternatives and path forward to completion. The Trail and Lands Conservation Program Manager spent a lot of time in the field scouting routes and tracking down landowners and partners.
In most of the gap areas, private land is the biggest barrier to trail completion. With partners and CDTC’s new Colorado Fellow, we continue to strengthen our relationship with landowners, community members and partners to address tough issues like recreational impacts to sensitive wildlife. In the Muddy Pass region, the Colorado Fellow is working with the Colorado Department of Transporation (CDOT) and USFS to improve safety and awareness of the CDT access points at road crossings. We hope to expand the signage effort throughout Colorado to bring more awareness to where to access the CDT and to notify drivers of crossings.
The OLR in Cuba, New Mexico, is nearing completion. In November, BLM and CDTC began to flag a portion of the re-route, with construction slated for 2023. This section will complete about five miles of the proposed re-route. On the other end of the re-route, the former Nacimiento Mine Site continues to be remediated and transformed into a gateway for the CDT. The USFS and Conservation Corps installed a new kiosk at the site, and the USFS expects to finish the parking area and remove remediation equipment next year. This site protects access to the CDT for recreationists and holds a lot of opportunities for engagement with visitors and the local CDT Gateway Community of Cuba.
Those that have hiked the CDT in New Mexico will also likely remember the long, dusty road north of Pie Town, NM. This is the longest remaining gap of the entire trail. This year CDTC, the Cibola National Forest and members of the Acoma Tribal Historic Preservation Office (THPO) began scouting a re-route through public lands. The partnership with the THPO is a new approach to consultation with indigenous communities that CDTC and the USFS Resource Assistant, Amanda Grace Santos, are developing for future projects. The time spent in the field sharing knowledge about trail planning, construction, and relationships to the land formed strong partnerships and blazed a new way for future collaborations.
Towards ongoing efforts in 2022, we also installed gates throughout New Mexico. These included critical locations such as at the El Malpais Information Center and four locations in the Bootheel where users previously had to crawl through barbed wire fences. The Bootheel gates were made possible through a partnership with the BLM Las Cruces District, Conservation Corps New Mexico and a local rancher, Isaac Kerr, who lives next to the CDT and welded
COMPLETION continued from page 15
the gates. CCNM installed the gates over the course of 1.5 weeks. CDTC plans to continue this partnership and install more gates next year. Collaboration between these partners and the CDTC New Mexico Regional Representative and Trail and Lands program were key to making this project a success. CDTC and the Gila National Forest also purchased 11 rollover gates to be installed on the CDT around Silver City. The rollovers and gates in the Bootheel directly address issues raised by grazing permittees and were planned in collaboration with members of the ranching community.
Finally, we continued to work with the BLM and New Mexico State Lands Office on a 74-parcel easement acquisition for the CDT across state lands. The BLM completed the Environmental Assessment for the CDT Right-of-Way (ROW), and with the ROW in place, CDT users will no longer have to purchase the New Mexico state recreation pass once the acquisition is completed. Also, improvements such as gates and signs can now be made on these sections of the Trail. With support from the Conservation Alliance, the CDTC has helped see this huge accomplishment through to completion, which is anticipated to be finalized shortly.
The partnership with the Acoma Tribal Historic Preservation Office is a new approach to consultation with indigenous communities that CDTC and USFS...are developing for future projects. The time spent in the field sharing knowledge about trail planning, construction, and relationships to the land formed strong partnerships and blazed a new way for future collaborations.
A year in the field
By Kylie Yang | CDTC Field Operations Manager
2022 Field Season: Challenges and Coming Together
While 2022 was one of CDTC’s most productive and fun field seasons yet, it was not without challenges. Each year, CDTC hires two seasonal Field Instructors–if you’ve participated in any of our Volunteer Trail Maintenance projects, or attended an Adopter Training, you’ve met them, and have experienced the incredible energy, positivity and knowledge that they bring to each project–but this year we were unable to fill those positions, and we came to a crossroads. Canceling the 2022 field season seemed like a viable option, but volunteers are, and always have been, the backbone of the CDTC. With that in mind, full-time CDTC staff stepped up to the plate to fill our seasonal leadership void. Field seasons can’t exist without volunteers, partners and donors, but this season would truly not have been possible without the support of CDTC staff. I want to first and foremost thank our incredibly passionate volunteers, land managers, and funders, but also staff members Morgan Anderson, Teresa Martinez, Corey Torivio and Dan Carter for helping to lead trail projects this season. And, thank you to the rest of the CDTC staff for coming together to support the Field Programs staff and allowing us to do this valuable work in the field.
2022 Project Overview
SYCAMORE CANYON – TRAIL
MAINTENANCE
March 18 – 21 | Gila National Forest, NM
Visiting the Gila Wilderness in March can give a trail user a taste of winter, spring or fall — and the recent field project team experienced all three! Over the course of a couple of days, local volunteers honed and re-invigorated the popular CDT alternate route near Sycamore Canyon. Folks focused on clearing overgrown brush and removing pine needles off the trail. Trail users can now confidently traverse this area without second guessing where the trail is! We are so grateful for the opportunity to work with Backcountry
Horsemen–Gila Chapter, and New Mexico Volunteers for the Outdoors, for a shared stewardship approach that keeps thriving. This project was funded by the New Mexico Economic Development Department.
• 1.8 miles of tread maintenance
• 15 drains installed
• 2.5 miles corridor cleared
• 54 cairns built
• 4 stepping stones installed
GRAND LAKE COMMUNITY STEWARDSHIP EVENT May 17 – 18 | Grand Lake, CO
CDTC and the CDT Gateway Community of Grand Lake came together to support the efforts of Westgate Community School of Thornton, CO, while their students re-established a community garden that lies along the Continental Divide Trail in Grand Lake. Westgate Community School specializes in service-based education, with a motto of “Mind, Body, Community.” A group of junior-level students was involved in this environmentally-friendly service learning project. An Environmental Education Specialist with the school assisted the class in researching vegetation, ordering plants and planning the design of the garden—all as an educational process for the project. This group was able to breathe life back into the Grand Lake Gateway Garden!
• 200 feet of tread maintenance
• 200 feet of trail rehabilitation
• 3 drains installed
• 1 sign installed
RAWLINS COMMUNITY STEWARDSHIP EVENT June 4 | Rawlins, WY
In just one day, a small group of volunteers officially marked the CDT through downtown Rawlins, WY! In collaboration with the city, an official CDT Gateway Community, we
Our 2022 field season was filled with impactful and fun work! CDTC is deeply grateful to everyone who volunteered with us this year, and to our partners and sponsors for helping make sure the trail is the best it can be.
Here are the highlights from our 2022 field season.
OF SYCAMORE CANYON TRAIL PROJECT BY KYLIE YANG PAGE 18
PHOTO
teamed up during the annual Rawlins clean-up event to bring education, stewardship and civic engagement to the forefront. When stopping by Rawlins, check out the brightly colored CDT markers that designate the official CDT route down sidewalks and roads. Thank you to the community for embracing the trail and continuing to educate and advocate for the CDT! This project was funded by the Round Up Riders of the Rockies.
• 1.25 miles of CDT marked
• 10 CDT blazes painted
STEAMBOAT SPRINGS COMMUNITY STEWARDSHIP EVENT
July 14 | Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest, CO
CDTC partnered with the local non-profit Yampatika, whose mission is to inspire environmental stewardship through education. The organizations co-led an exploratory hike along the Continental Divide Trail at Dumont Lake, where participants got to hike along the wildflower-dotted Divide. Yampatika’s naturalist, Lexi Stine, helped teach participants about the flora along the Trail and about the many edible and medicinal uses of local plant life. CDTC staff discussed local projects in the area, why the CDT is so popular with locals and thru-hikers alike and how the geology of the Continental Divide relates to Steamboat Springs.
• $2,006.65 in volunteer labor as in-kind
JUNCO
LAKE – TRAIL REHABILITATION
June 24 – 26 | Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests, CO
Junco Lake is a popular trailhead with access to both the CDT and Indian Peaks Wilderness. We had a wonderful group of motivated volunteers who completed drainage and corridor maintenance at both Junco Lake and Devil’s Thumb. Participants installed many stepping stones in boggy areas to help people keep their feet out of the mud. Not only do we love working in these areas because of the amazing views and frequent moose sightings, but working alongside Headwaters Trails Alliance is always a treat. This project was funded by the Laura Jane Musser Fund and Grand County Open Lands, Rivers, and Trails.
• 32 drains installed
• 30 drains maintained
• 115 downed trees cleared
• 5.7 miles of corridor cleared
• 1 cairn built
• 2 waterbars installed
• 31 stepping stones set
HILO/ DEVIL’S THUMB 1 – TRAIL REHABILITATION
July 9 – 10 | Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests, CO
In just two days, we worked diligently with volunteers
PHOTO OF STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, CO, COMMUNITY STEWARDSHIP EVENT BY KYLIE YANG
from across Colorado to construct and install a 15.5-foot single-stringer bridge that allows people to cross a stream safely as they work their way up to Devil’s Thumb on the CDT. We were happy to work alongside our partners at Headwaters Trails Alliance to complete this project. The massive blowdown of trees in this area has greatly impacted the trail, so we also worked on building a large retaining wall to support the trail surface and cleared away tons of debris. We worked with 9 volunteers and 4 crew leaders to make this magic happen. Thank you to all the hard work from this wonderful group! This project was funded by the Laura Jane Musser Fund and Grand County Open Lands, Rivers, and Trails.
• 3 miles corridor cleared
• 15.5 ft single-stringer bridge built (it’s beautiful!)
• 2 large rock retaining walls
BUTTE, MT ADOPTER TRAINING
June 11–12 | Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest, MT
A 2-day adopter training was hosted outside of one of our newest Gateway Communities of Butte, MT. We were so grateful to collaborate with the Forest Service and Annual Pete Sorini’s Trail Days event to teach trail maintenance concepts to local volunteers. Based out of Highlands Camp, the forest service worked with volunteers to clear downed trees while CDTC staff addressed basic trail maintenance
WHAT WILL YOUR LEGACY BE?
“...Hiking Mexico to Canada along the spine of the continent changed my life just as it has that of many other long and short stay visitors. When I see what the CDT Coalition and the women and men before them have done to make this amazing path accessible to lovers of wilderness travel, I want nothing more than to contribute to that effort in whatever way is possible for me. For this reason, I choose to include CDTC in my estate plan.”
– Jean Ella, the first woman to thru-hike the CDT
LMURRAY@CONTINENTALDIVIDETRAIL.ORG
HELP US PROTECT THE CDT FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS BY BECOMING A LEGACY MEMBER TO LEARN MORE, CONTACT LAUREN MURRAY AT
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PHOTO OF HILO/DEVIL’S THUMB BY KYLIE YANG
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needs like corridor clearance, drainage and tread work along the CDT. Check out our work on bike, foot or hoof. Insider scoop: wildflowers here are flourishing in mid-June!
• 450 ft tread maintenance
• 35 drains maintained
• 5 downed trees cleared
• 200 ft corridor cleared
• 6 new CDT Adopters
LINCOLN, MT ADOPTER TRAINING
June 14–15 | Helena & Lewis and Clark National Forest, MT
We hosted a 2-day trail maintenance training with the Oboz footwear staff (and two amazing volunteers) to get their trail eyes in shape and tools in the dirt. Despite the wintery mix looming over our camp, we had a blast getting to know everyone. Upon completing their training, Oboz adopted 4 miles of CDT east of Rogers Pass. Two additional volunteers committed their time to learn trail skills and officially adopted parts of the CDT in MT and WY. This project was sponsored by Oboz Footwear.
• 489 ft in tread maintenance
• 100 ft in tread rehabilitation & naturalization
• 3 drains installed
• 21 drains maintained
• 1,200 ft corridor cleared
• 15 waterbars cleaned
• 10 new CDT Adopters
CO NATIVE ADOPTER TRAINING (PRIVATE TRAINING)
July 7–8 | Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests, CO
Thanks to a generous donation from CO Native (a subset of Coors Brewing), we hosted a trail maintenance training at the popular Herman Gulch Trailhead. We taught all the basics to a handful of volunteers and also made some time for fun too: after a fruitful lesson, we had time to hike to Herman Lake and see some stellar views.
• 44 drains maintained
• 5280 ft corridor cleared
• 50 ft social trails closed
CARSON NF – TRAIL MAINTENANCE
August 4 – 6 | Carson National Forest, NM
CDTC returned to the Carson National Forest with the help of our Legacy Volunteers (volunteers who have been working on the CDT for 10+ years!) These super volunteers returned to support our land manager friends in some light maintenance on the CDT. Over the course of this 3-day project, volunteers worked south from Forest Road 559 toward Mogote Peak over a 4-mile stretch of trail. Activities this year included hand-finishing a machine-built
PHOTO OF ADOPTER TRAINING IN LINCOLN, MT, BY KENNY GAMBLIN
segment (600 feet of new single track) to tie in with existing doubletrack, and redefining overgrown tread. In addition to this, Legacy volunteers worked on general corridor clearance and some signage.
• 21,110 feet of tread maintained
• 8 feet of trail rehabbed
• 4 drains maintained
• 2 feet of corridor cleared
• 7 signs installed
• 2 markers installed
• 1 gate repaired
HILO/ DEVIL’S THUMB 2 – TRAIL REHABILITATION
August 12–14 | Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests, CO
CDTC and Headwaters Trails Alliance returned to this challenging project site on the Continental Divide Trail that is locally known as High Lonesome, and was accessed via the Rollins Pass Trailhead. In 2021, volunteers helped clear hundreds of trees that were jackstraw across the CDT making this area impassable after a derecho wind event. With this section of the trail finally clear of the majority of fallen trees, volunteers and HTA staff worked on installing check dams up above the blowdown area to aid in drainage and trail stabilization, and closing off social trails that had developed.
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PHOTO OF RAWLINS, WY, COMMUNITY STEWARDSHIP EVENT BY KYLIE YANG
• 3,640 feet of trail rehabilitated
• 10 cairns built
• 3 waterbars installed
• 6 check steps installed
• 15,840 feet of trail scouted
LONESTAR GEYSER – TRAIL REHABILITATION
August 29 – September 2 | Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests, CO
Alongside the National Park Service, CDTC volunteers supported the restoration of the Trail through the Lonestar Geyser Basin. CDTC Crew Leaders worked alongside our volunteers to help tear out and replace decaying bridges that had succumbed to the elements and heavy use, leaving them very dangerous to trail travelers. Nine volunteers worked to clean up these messy water and bog crossings and repair, reconstruct and restore this section of the CDT. Volunteers set up basecamp at a private backcountry group site where they frequently had bison come visit, and even got to hear wolves howl.
• One 50-foot wilderness bridge constructed
GHOST LAKE 1 – TRAIL CONSTRUCTION
September 10–13 | Gila National Forest, NM
Alongside the Reserve Ranger District and New Mexico Volunteers for the Outdoors, CDTC supported a multi-year project to complete a 9.1-mile reroute of the CDT through the northern Gila National Forest between 5 Springs and Ghost Lake. In 2021, youth corps began to make headway on 3 miles of construction, with a clear need for growing partnership support to bring more capacity to this high priority project. Despite unrelenting afternoon storms, a total of seven volunteers on one 4-day project, CDTC and NMVFO began constructing new tread and drainage that will help CDT users avoid excessively rocky areas and uphold the scenic beauty of the CDT.
• 500 feet of new tread built
• 6 drains installed
HILO RAINBOW
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PHOTO BY MORGAN ANDERSON
NEGLECTED MINE 3 – TRAIL CONSTRUCTION
October 6 - 9 | Gila National Forest, NM
CDTC returned to the Burro Mountains of New Mexico to work in partnership with New Mexico Volunteers for the Outdoors to address a short but challenging 1.5-mile reroute starting at Jacks Peak Trailhead. Work included building new tread, and creating rock retaining walls. This reroute will ultimately help move the CDT onto sustainable contours and soil types and increase the user experience along this nationally designated trail!
• 600 feet tread construction
• 2 drains installed
• 7,500 feet of trail scouted
We also send our gratitude to the wonderful partners and funders who helped make this season a resounding success.
Partners: New Mexico Volunteers for the Outdoors, Gila Backcountry Horsemen, Gateway Community of Grand Lake, Headwaters Trails Alliance, Linked Adventures, Yampatika, Westgate Community School, Gateway Community of Rawlins, Gateway Community of Steamboat Springs, Town of Grand Lake, Storm Peak Brewery, United States Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management and National Park Service Units.
Funders: New Mexico Trails, National Wilderness Stewardship Alliance, New Mexico BLM, Oboz, CO Native, Partners in the Outdoors, Grand County OLRT Fund, Laura Jane Musser Fund, Roundup Riders of the Rockies and Membership Donations.
PHOTO OF GHOST LAKE TRAIL PROJECT BY NIGEL HOLMAN
The Continental Divide Trail Coalition is a volunteer-based organization with many opportunities for individuals, families and groups to participate. Each year, we organize volunteer trail maintenance projects with various time committments, skill sets and locations. No experience is necessary to join us on these projects – all you need is a willingness to work hard and get dirty! Learn more at https://continentaldividetrail.org/volunteer.
GRAND LAKE GATEWAY GARDEN PHOTO BY KYLIE YANG VOLUNTEERING WITH THE CDTC
Faces from the Divide
Tommy “Twerk” Corey may best be known for his HikerTrashVogueproject — but the portraitist and hiker is just getting started.
Q: What is Hiker Trash Vogue and how did the project come about?
Hiker Trash Vogue is an editorial-style photo book featuring portraits of long distance hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail. I got the idea when I was in Wrightwood (mile 369 of the PCT) taking a zero day, and as a joke I made my friends model with their favorite piece of gear. I had the hikers pose like fashion models as a way of being facetious, since we were all smelly and gross and wearing the same clothes all day, everyday.
Q: Landscapes are a frequent choice for photographers on the trail, but you’ve chosen to go more for a human-focused lens on your art. Why is portraiture your medium of choice?
When I started taking photos at 12 years old I was inspired by my friend’s older brother who had taken really beautiful portraits of his fellow classmates for his senior project. It wasn’t so much the quality of his photos (even though they were amazing) but rather a moment I witnessed one day in class that really inspired me to become a portrait photographer.
One day he brought in proofs to show to a girl he had taken senior pictures for. I remember this girl as being really quiet and shy, and kids were often mean to her. As an adult, looking back, I now think she probably didn’t have the best home life. As she flipped through the pages, looking at the beautiful portraits he had taken of her (this was 2001, so they were all done on film), the girl started to cry. She just kept saying thank you, over and over, with her head on his shoulder.
There were a lot of other kids around who took notice as she flipped through the pages, but I don’t think they really understood what
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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY TOMMY COREY (PICTURED ABOVE)
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was happening. I was only 13 years old at the time, but I understood what was happening. In that moment I knew I wanted my work to have the same effect on my subjects the way those photos did on that girl that day. I didn’t want to just take pictures–I wanted to create portraits that made people feel beautiful and had a purpose.
Q: In 2022 you hiked a section of the CDT northbound from the Southern Terminus in New Mexico to Pagosa Springs, CO. Did you have any particular favorite spots or landscapes along the way?
The southern San Juans were insanely gorgeous, and also terrifying. I would have to say the climb up to Mt. Taylor, near the gateway community of Grants, was my favorite.
Q: What is the scope and inspiration of your latest project, called “All Humans Outside”?
All Humans Outside (AHO) is a photo documentation of 100 different people from all different sectors of outdoor sports, recreation and professions. The goal is to show how diverse the outdoor space is through people and the various ways they are connecting to nature, finding belonging, creating community and protecting outdoor areas. For me, I wanted to show that my work is multi-dimensional and also find a way to celebrate people and make them feel validated in the ways they connect to the outdoors. I think in the extreme sports world we cheer on those who do the craziest and fastest things outside. With AHO I wanted to give people a platform to tell their story and show how they love Mother Nature in very unique ways. I think through sharing these stories we can build empathy amongst each other and create a more tight-knit outdoor community.
Q: Was there something in particular about the CDT that inspired you as an artist? As you were working within the space of the Divide, did you find a particular challenge or landscape that added something new to your experience as a photographer?
To be honest, my jaunt on the CDT was all about hiking. I didn’t feel particularly inspired as an artist this time around. I had already thru-hiked once and done Hiker Trash Vogue. I knew deep down I should be doing something else, and that’s why I eventually ended my hike. The scenery was gorgeous and the people were amazing, but it really felt like an extension of any previous long distance hike. I knew I needed to get off the trail and pursue something else.
Tommy Corey is an outdoor portrait photographer from Redding, California. He currently resides in Portland, Oregon, working as a freelance photographer for various outdoor companies. To view more of Tommy’s work, visit www.tommycorey.com or follow @allhumansoutside on Instagram.
CAPTURING COLORADO’S COLORS
By Allie Ghaman | CDTC Communications Manager
Q: We’d love to hear any backstory about your journey as an artist — how you first started painting with watercolors, which I imagine predated your work in pigment creation, and how that journey evolved over time?
I’ve been working with watercolour and inks since I was in high school. I remember packing a tiny vial of black ink and a paintbrush the size of a toothpick with me when I hiked the PCT. I tried my best to keep making art on trail, but eventually gave up painting for simple sketches in my notebook. After the PCT I actually withdrew a bit from my art practice, and when I discovered pigment foraging that sort of re-lit the spark in my art practice. I’ve been learning that aspect of my art, the collection of pigments from landbases and the process of working them into mediums like watercolours for the past three years.
Q: Could you provide some background about your travels?
I set foot on my first long distance hiking trail in 2018 when I thruhiked the PCT. I fell in love with it right away and the next summer my partner and I decided
to hike what’s known as the Vancouver Island Trail (VIT), a rough 800km route that stretches from the southern to northern tip of the island we both grew up on. It was so different from the PCT, but just as influential for me. We were actually the second and third hikers to ever complete that route, so one of the only resources we had for planning was the person who’d hiked it the year before us. The VIT is a shorter route, but half the time you’re bushwhacking up the side of a mountain in thick brush so it still took us a month. Once we had a taste of that, hiking the CDT didn’t feel quite as intimidating. We hiked most of the CDT this year, starting northbound and ending in Montana. I’m excited to return and finish off the last state soon!
Q: Are any aspects of your journey along the CDT that you’d like to touch on, perhaps a particular moment or landscape that captured you as an artist and creator?
It’s really hard to pick just one or two things to speak to here. As a pigment artist, the CDT showed me sights that stopped me in my tracks every day. From small details that stick with you, like the way sunlight catches bright lichens in the morning and lights them up like lanterns. Or more obvious things like an
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CDTC joins in conversation with artist Sierra “Grubs” Mueller about their artistic project to capture the pigments of the Divide
entire hillside you cross, red with iron oxide, staining the soles of your shoes. The rainbows of colours that build up in the geysers in Yellowstone. A sunset over a flat, dark desert.
These moments happened everyday on trail, so it’s hard to pick just one or two. I’d say the most special thing for me about being on trail is just those simple moments that deepen my understanding of the places I’m moving through.
Q: Could you talk about the relationship between these two elements of yourself, the artist and the traveler? Do you create art during your journeys, or is it something you use to reconnect after a trip is complete? Does one angle, the art or the journey, inform the other?
I think for me the two aspects both influence each other. My draw to create comes right from my love for the land bases I’ve passed through. But at the same time, I wouldn’t have seen things from the same angle if it weren’t for my art practice in the first place.
I use pigment foraging and paint making as a way to tell stories of colour in a land base. It’s a way for me to reconnect with a place once I’m back home. I think about how those colours first appeared in the land and what changes they went through to become something people use for art.
Q: I believe the Ridgelines palette is the CDT-focused one! Could you fill us in on what those pigments are made of? And perhaps just a
brief overview of your process? (I’m sure there are a few trade secrets along the way!)
Yes, I made the Ridgelines palette in the image of Colorado’s stretch of the CDT! For some of the colours, I used pigments I foraged on trail and carried in my backpack until I could mail them home. I also included natural pigments from other parts of the world. I use those to recreate colours instead of foraging in places it might not be ethical or safe.
The process of making paint from rock and soil is pretty simple in concept. First I grind my material down by hand and sift out the unusable parts. I mix the pigments with some homemade watercolour medium on a big glass slab and mull the paint until it’s nice and smooth. Then I really just start playing around with each colour and see which pigments might fit together in a palette.
The first colour I included is Midsummer’s Eve, a bright orange made from iron rich clay. I collected this colour from a stunningly red hillside near Grays Peak. It was the night before the solstice, and when we made camp that night the sunset matched the colour of the hillside perfectly.
Next is Pronghorn, a dusty sienna. I chose this pigment, of course, to represent the coat of the elusive pronghorn that everyone talks about on trail. They really are a sight to behold.
Monsoon is a dark greyish green meant to represent the heavy clouds that can roll in from nowhere when you’re way up on a ridge. This colour is made of two pigments, one of which is a nearly black iron oxide. It interacts with water in an interesting way and reminds me of how heavy rains can lift topsoils and carry them downhill with them.
The next colour is a soft and warm white named after the Sego Lily. We saw these flowers lots in lower elevation areas, their petals are so delicate and stand right out against the sandy earth.
Haiku is a unique colour made from magnetite that I collected off the banks of the Arkansas river. It’s really great for special effects as you can manipulate the magnetite while it’s still wet on paper. It’s full of texture and just so much fun to play with.
Lastly, we have Cinder. A warm and deep black made from iron oxide. This colour represents the massive stretches of charred forests we passed through. In particular I feel it reflects the burn areas near Rocky Mountain National Park and whenever I paint with it I’m brought right back there.
See more of Sierra’s work on their Instagram, @stoneboundstudios, or on their website at stoneboundstudios.com
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Photos of CO and the Ridgelines palette courtesy Sierra Mueller
Closer to the wild side
Wildlife photographer and thruhiker Mandy “Veggie” Redpath shares her tips and ethics for getting the most out of your wildlife photos
By Allie Ghaman | CDTC Communications Manager Photos courtesy Mandy “Veggie” Redpath
For veteran hikers “Veggie” and “Karma,” a thruhike on the Continental Divide Trail this year wasn’t just a second trip down a familiar path, but an opportunity to take a new lens on the journey.
The couple met in Lima, MT on a previous CDT thruhike, where Veggie and Karma were heading different directions, but took an unexpected zero in Lima to spend time together. The next year, the couple made plans to hike the Pacific Northwest Trail together. Now multiple thousand backpacking miles together (they have around 28,000 trail miles combined!), and even more miles as vanlifers, and the rest is history. But it always bothered the duo that they hadn’t walked the Divide together, and 2022 brought a fresh opportunity.
Veggie had always wanted new perspectives on the landscape. After hiking through Spain after college, she found both inspiration and frustration. “i became interested in the environments I was going through and feeling frustrated that I didnt have that [background] knowledge base,” she says. “I would notice the ecosystems changing as I went through elevation changes, so I went to grad school and got a degree of environmental studies, and that added another dimension to hiking for me.”
When the early part of the pandemic kept Veggie and Karma holed up in their van near Vail, Veggie began to experiment with wildlife photography on the the Vail bus loop’s assortment of robins, ravens, mountain bluebirds. She dedicated herself to learning photography over the coming months, and knew that this was an element she wanted to add to her travels. “It added a whole new dimension to thruhiking after a decade,” she says. “I like teaching other thruhikers little nuggets of information, a lot of the plant life and how to find wildlife. Studying the behavior patterns of wildlife really helped me find them better.”
For those who might want to improve their own on-trail photography, Veggie has clear advice. “If you’re going a bigger camera, front pack your
LEFT, TOP: A badger in the Great Basin, digging through sagebrush.
FAR LEFT: A black bear with unusual chest blaze in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.
LEFT: A bull moose in Glacier National Park.
ABOVE, RIGHT: Karma and Veggie
DSLR. Have your camera accessible at all times. If you have to take the backpack off, the motion will scare the wildlife.” Perhaps just as important to her process is her second hot tip: “Wake up early! Even if you think you’re alone, there’s almost always someone one to three hours ahead of you. Many forms of wildlife are most active in the morning and the evening. That’s how I got over half the shots, was that we took off at 5 a.m. You can take strategic breaks, too. It’s inevitable that you will have to filter water [which is a good time to keep an eye out.] A lot of wild beaver dams increase riparian habitats so drastically that it brings other wildlife there. Take longer breaks and make use of your time by the water.”
From this year’s trip, Veggie’s favorite shot was of a badger in Wyoming, seen on the left. “I have never been able to find a badger before,” she says. “My secret weapon is that Karma is usually ahead of me, and he’ll sit down and make a camera motion [ to signal.] He’s usually better at spotting them at me. We watched the badger for about an hour — it was digging a new hole in a giant sagebrush. It was aware of us but we did give it space. It’s really important to me that I’m not disrupting the animal.”
This latter consideration plays an important part in the wildlife photographer’s ethics, including Veggie’s: while viewing an animal is the artist’s goal, interfering with its behavior is not. “That’s always my goal: the animal must be safe first,” says Veggie. “But everybody can be okay with each other and coexist in these spaces and have a mutual respect. I don’t want to change [the subject’s] behaviors; part of why [I photograph them is so] I can see its behavior closer and in more intimate detail.” She advises that a long or telephoto lens is crucial for maintaining a safe and polite distance from the
PAGE 37
animal. “With a phone trying to take photos or video, you have to get much closer and the animals can get upset,” she cautions. “Also, you don’t get to spend time with the animals and their behavior as much then. Let the animal be the animal. If I’m approaching closer, I talk to them while I’m going. The moment I see the behavior change, if the ears go back, or if they’re not comfortable, I back off. A lot of it is doing that research ahead of time [to understand the local wildlife’s behavior.] Distance is better.”
Among other favorite wildlife encounters for Veggie and Karma this year were with moose, seen left. “We were going northbound in Colorado, and had taken some time off to let the snow melt. We were consistently seeing moose in the morning near established beaver dams. Beavers really do a lot for stream ecosystems — I learned that one of a moose’s most nutritious foods is from ponds and lakes made by beavers,” she says. Keeping tabs on beaver dams is one way that Veggie and Karma kept eyes peeled for wildlife encounters. They also hike in such a way to avoid disturbing wildlife. “In the morning, we actively try to be quieter and we’ll hike closer together. We do try to make some noise to not scare very
large animals, talking calmly. Most times, they can recognize your calm, and they keep calm. We ran into a moose in Glacier [National Park] that was barely okay with us. It was a muscular bull moose almost to the rut. The behavior was okay but it was very clearly on edge with us, we talked very quietly, we found its comfort line and stuck to that comfort line.” That “comfort line” is the invisible point at which Veggie sees the animal altering its behavior in recognition of her, and she works to stay on the far side of it.
For future thruhikes and other trips, Veggie intends to keep her camera close: “I think wildlife photography adds depth and richness to the [thruhiking] experience. Sometimes, it’s a common thing for thrhukers to get into a ‘miles mentality’ with no breaks, and I prefer to it keep it spontaneous. If 20 minutes in, I see an epic moose, sometimes I’ll spend an hour trying to photograph it. I like to make time for those experiences, and it helps me remember why I’m out there.”
Find more of Veggie and Karma’s photography and adventures at https://travelingnaturejournal.com/ thru-hiking-adventures/ or on Veggie’s Instagram, or her new TikTok
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Dave & Sandy Slowey Chris Smith
Morgan Sommerville
Steve Staley
Philip Storey
Rebecca Sudduth & Daniel Weber
Robert Sylvester George Szeremeta Michael Tam Olli Tam
Whitney LaRuffa
David Lattier
Kevin Linebarger
Rebecca Louden - Louden Family Foundation
Reese Lukei Paul Magnanti
Lydia Mahan Barney & Sandy Mann
Martin Alex Martinez & Family Nicolas Martinez
Teresa Martinez
Chris McMaster - ULA Equipment Gary Monk
Janie & Randy Moore
Peter Necarsulmer
Jean Neely John & Lisa Nelson Jim O’Brien Pat O’Donnell Shane O’Donnell
Stephen Olson
Richard Ostheimer Don & Amy Owen Taylor & Nancy Owen Greg Pierce Brad Pierson
Avelino Tamayo
Don Thompson Kathy Trotter
Daniel Weber
Gary Werner & Melanie Lord Scott Williams Bernard Wolf Mike Wollmer Bill Youmans Tim Zvada
PAGE 40
CDTC Charter Members helped build the base of support necessary to help launch CDTC’s efforts in 2012. CDTC owes an incredible debt of gratitude to these important supporters.
CDT Explorers support CDTC with donations of $100 or more. We wish to thank the individuals below for the generous donations they made between August 31 and December 10!
$100-$499
John Anderson
Vince Auriemma
Eric Bailey
Bradley Bailey
Rachel Ballard
Ludger Bannierink
Elizabeth Beall
James Borden
Randall Brown
Jeff Buffo
Chris Burke
Kevin Burns
Amy Camp
Travis Chapin
Sebastian Clough Brian Deames
Patrick Dixon
Chet Dixon
Sara Edwards
Owen Eigenbrot
Michael Elliott William Erler
Thomas Ewing Chad Ferguson Anna Flessner
David Fortune Jim Fowler
Garrett French Thomas Frenzel
Ernesto Fuentes
Diane Gansauer
E.M. Geouge
Elizabeth Glass
Larry Graham
Robert Grey
Paul Gronland
Roger Hahn
Ira Hale
Shelby Hallmark Wendel Hann
Adrian Harrison
Devon Herndon
Harold Herring
Kristin Hjelle
Joseph Holland
Nancy Huber
Susan Janssen
Vernon & Deborah
Jarboe
Anitra Kass Anitra Kass
David Kessler Jim Klumpp Glenn Knippenberg
Neil Krueger Mike Ksenyak Alex Kurtz
Samantha Langston Whitney LaRuffa
Bruce Leiding
Donald Lenc James Liebman
Karl Luce
Thomas Luebben James Madden
Patrick Madison Dave Mamich Bart Martin Marc Mauger Greg Mauger Bill Mayes
Amy Mccormick Lois & Tom Mcevoy
Timothy Mcguire
William Mcintyre Steve Meyer
Brian Micheletti
Christopher Mills
Michael Milone Colleen Moore
Gail Moore
Joseph & Donna Morris
Elizabeth Morton
Mary Moynihan
Terry Neill
Christina Nesset Dennis Newton
Scott Nichols
Mark Nicholson
Gerald Nielsen Hannah Nordhagen David Odell Bradley Oen Brian Oney
Christina Osmon
Meredith Petty Carol & Jim Pierce Andrew Poland
Melissa Prager Rick & Deana Pratt Andreas Rein Steven Reneau Andreas Renner
Ally Russell Sean Ryall
Jim Salyers
Richard Sayre Wim Schalken
Timothy Schoolfield
Vi Schweiker
Josh And Lisa Shusko
Mal Sillars
Marianne Skeen Gabriel Smith Gregory Smith
Robert Spong
Steve Staley Eric Stark
Peter Steiner
Jennifer Stocking
Liatris Studer
Michael Sudduth
Mark Swanson
Paul Tennery
James Thompson
Daniel Waldner
Robert Walker
Thomas Weaver
Taran Webber
Paul Wemyss
Gary Werner John Wieland
Tyler Williamson
James Wise
Bernard Wolf
Julia Youngblood
$500-$999
Guthrie Alexander
Jon Bettcher
Mike Mcclure
Kirk Mcwethy
Pat O’Meara & Lynne Uhring Don & Amy Owen Tom Phillips Margaret Rice Jim Sells R.J Thatcher D.C. Ward Wendy Watson
$1,000-$9,999
Chris Alonso
Laura Alpert
Anonymous Roger Carpenter
Clancy Clark
Lon Cooper
Bob Doyle
Robert Doyle
Jim Eagleton
Arthur and Denise Foley
Christine Hersh
Kim Kanas
Neil Lacey
Felipe Lovato Kathleen Lynch Teresa Martinez Bill Murphy
$10,000+
Daniel Collins Mitchell H. Lasky & Cecilia M. Barajas Greg Winchester
ENDOWMENT CHARTER MEMBERS
Anonymous
Rich Blitz
Amy Camp
Clancy Clark
Arthur and Denise Foley
Ben Gabriel
Josephine Hazelett
James Hlavaty
Jim Hunter
Rob Hutchinson
Emilie Kelly
Mike Ksenyak
Matthew Lindelow
Andrew Linger
Kathleen Lynch
Paul Magnanti
Barney And Sandy Mann
Nicolas Martinez
Teresa Martinez
Amy Mccormick
John Mclarty
Dean Myerson
Barbara Nash
Don & Amy Owen Tom Phillips Greg Pierce
Michael Schechtman
Amiththan Sebarajah
Kerry Shakarjian
Steven & Grace Shattuck
Josh And Lisa Shusko
Linda Spaulding
Jena Thompson
Randy Welsh
Robert J. Weggel
Amanda Wheelock
Greg & Jan Winchester
James York
CDT EXPLORERS
PAGE 41
CDT Sustainers help us protect the trail all year long by giving monthly donations. Join them by signing up on our website for as little as $5 per month!
Amy Aloe
Lynn Andenoro
Elvin Arrance
Alexander Asai
Ludger Bannierink
Bradley Beall
Elizabeth Beall
Shaun Bechdol
Melinda Bise
Sara Bishop
James Boatwright
James Boeck
James Boeck
Thomas Bosche
Joseph Bouchey
Robert Boulis
Aaron Brooks
Raymond Brown
Jeffrey Brownscheidle
Amy Buchanan
Charles Bush
Debra Calhoun
Erin Capron
Elizabeth Cocchiarella
Lisa Cook
Dianna Corden
Elizabeth Corliss
Brian Curtin
Sheila Cuyk
Rachel Danczyk
Nanette Day
Brian Deames
Randy Debenham
Rachel Dehoyos
Rabinath DeLange
Garrett Delmas
Laran Despain
Stephen Dodson
Nicole Dubeta
Joni Dupre
Bryan Durocher
Sara Eder
Sara Edwards Teresa Ellis Ellen Ely
Steve Falconer
LEGACY MEMBERS
Kenji Farinelli
Heather Farrell
Chad Ferguson
Robert Flynn Kelly Flynn
David Fockler
Patrick Foley James Fowler
Ernesto Fuentes
Frances Galvin
Stephen Gates
Michael Gaudio
Jon Geilhufe Elaine Geouge
David Giese
Andine Gilmore
Merrill Glustrom
Hannah Green
Paul Gronland
Gerard Gubbels
Sarah Gude Sarah Gude
Wendel Hann
Robert Harborne
Jason Harley Barbara Harris
Adrian Harrison
Harry Bicycle Company LLC
Denise Hasskamp
Healing Hearts & Horses
William Herrmann
Scot Hunter
James Hunter
Mark Hurd
Thomas Iannetti
Millergroup Inc.
Samantha Isenhour Kathleen Johnson Heidi Jones
Daniel Juba
Kathy Kessler-York
Theresa Kirchner
Lynne Krulich
John Kuebler
Sean Kuvin Michael Lang
Tracy Lanktree Troy Lawson
Marty Leake
Brent Lindon
Dakota Lindsey Keith Lippwe
Michael Livesay Mary Lopez RN Karen Loveless Erin Lucero
Robert Mabry
Patrick A. Madison
Connie Mahan Michael Marstall Carol Martin
Tony Mason Amy Mccormick
Leslie Mccurry John Mclarty Mary Mcneill Steven Meyer Cody Miller Mark Mitford Steve Moffitt Mrs. Monsen Jessie Morgan Dave Morrison William Morton Lauren Murray Gerald Nielsen David Nowak Christina Osmon
Ronald Parry Renee Patrick Patrick Petracca
Scott Piddington
Pie Town Designs Jay Pierson
Andrew Poland
Cassandra Pritchett
Robin Proffitt Sarah Ramsey Barry Reed Debbie Reinschmidt Aubrey Renfroe Gerald Retzlaff
Philip Riley
Cayce Roach
Robert Romanoff
Rhonda Ronan
Annette Sanders
Craig Saum
Clifford Savage Curtis Savoie
Richard Sayre
David Schlewitz
Timothy Schoolfield
Erik Schultz Derek Sherry
Nathaniel Shull
Robert Shutt
Donna Siefert
Michael Simone
Anne Simonsick
Jonathan Slator Martin Smith Tawnee Smith
Clayton Smith Lachelle Smith Mclean Smith Gabriel Smith Gregory Smith Jonathan Smith Jonathan Smith
Kevin Soderman James Spellman Cody Spencer Heather Stabler
Daniel Stenziano Collin Stewart Mary Stoecker
Reuben Stugart
Jessica Suhowatsky
Kyle Svoboda Mark Swanson
James Swartz
Ben Sweeney
Kimberly Sweeney
Michael Sweitzer
Vincent Tagliatela Paul Tennery William Terrill
Ronald Tipton
Samantha Tonsing
Edwin Van Nieuwkerk
Keith Wagner
Gretchen K. Walker
Randy Walker
Dc Ward
Samuel Waterman
Kathy Whiteman
Claire Wilcox
Kenneth Wild
Daniel Williams
James Williams
Jordan Williams
James N. Wise MD PLLC
Steven Witt
Erin Woodrow
Sarah Wustrack
Marianna Young Julia Youngblood
CDT SUSTAINERS
Legacy Members make a lasting impact to protect the CDT for future generations by including CDTC in their will or estate plan. Contact Lauren Murray, CDTC Director of Development, at lmurray@continentaldividetrail.org if you are interested in becoming a Legacy Member.
Roger & Cindy Carpenter
Jean Ella Josephine Hazelett
Teresa Martinez Dick Vogel
Bart Lami Tom Lefferts Barney & Sandy Mann
PAGE 42
CDTC is also supported by businesses and corporations who provide monetary and in-kind donations. For more information on how your company or business may collaborate with CDTC, please contact Lauren Murray, CDTC Director of Development, at lmurray@continentaldividetrail.org. Thank you to the following businesses for supporting the Continental Divide Trail as CDTC members and corporate sponsors this year.
TRAILBLAZER
REI
Osprey
Hydro Flask YETI
EXPLORER
Big Agnes
ENO Buff
Backpacker
Zpacks
Honey Stinger Oboz
Farm to Feet
PATHFINDER
BearVault
Hyperlite National Geographic Sawyer
The Trek Montbell Hike for Mental Health Far Out Guides Leki Mountainsmith Six Moon Designs Deuter Darn Tough TOAKS
CO Native Gossamer Gear
ULA Equipment Melanzana AllTrails Blackfoot River Brewing The Tent Lab
SCOUT
PACT Golden Mill
Taos Ski Valley Resort
Big Sky Resort Point6
SOLE
Seek Dry Goods
The Base Camp
HomeLight
Triple Crown Coffee Hiiker Katabatic
BUSINESS MEMBERS
The Village at North Fork
La Cumbre Brewing Co
Ten Mile Creek Brewery
Golden Mill
The Base Camp Murray Hotel
MST Adventures
Kevin League Photography
Vigilante Shuttles & Tours
Triple Crown Coffee Integrity Tattoo
Pintler’s Portal Hostel
Downtown Helena, Inc Helena Business Improvement District
LOCAL
Linked Adventures
Seeley Lake Montana Vacation
Miller’s Boots and Shoes
Lazy Acres Campground
Morning Star Sports Backslope Brewing
Dry Point Distillers
Darkhorse Band
Salida Mountain Sports Bosque Brewing
Wood’s High Mountain Distillery
Snowy Mountain Brewing
Ten Mile Creek Brewery
Inscription Rock Trading/Cabins
Beneath the Mesa
Last Best Supply Co
Loft Helena Point S Tires
Gulch Distillers
Power and Light
Lamber Goodnow
Rinconada Adventures, LLC
HKM Employment Attorneys
Twin Lakes General Store
Storm Peak Brewing
Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery
CORPORATE
PARTNERS
PAGE 43
TRAILBLAZER ($25,000+)
EXPLORER ($5,000-$24,999)
PATHFINDER ($1,500-$4,999)
SCOUT ($500-$1,499)
sponsors who contributed to CDTC between August 31 to
this year:
Thank you to the following
November 30 of
PAGE 44
COMMUNITY KEPT ME GOING
By Avry Eaddy-Holmes
When I started my southbound Continental Divide Trail hike back in June, I had absolutely no idea what I would be getting myself into. I had this vague impression that the trail went somewhere through the San Juan mountain range in Colorado, and that there would probably be some nice fall foliage, but otherwise I had no context for really, well, anything. I thought that maybe I would meet four or five people along my journey, probably because everybody else in the community kept telling me that southbounding would be lonely and isolating. I expected a journey made up mostly of solitude, where I would connect more with myself and nature than with others.
Well, let me tell you: either this year was extremely populated, or people who haven’t hiked the CDT have absolutely no idea what they’re talking about! There were tons of other hikers around, and because of the really weird circumstances in Glacier
THE TERMINUS
2022 CDT Trail Blazer Avry “Racehorse” Eaddy-Holmes reflects on her year on the Divide, and the surprises along the way.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR, PICTURED ABOVE.
PAGE 46
FILTERING WATER IS BETTER WITH FRIENDS!
National Park (the “Great Grizzly Feast” which shut down part of the trail, in addition to a late blizzard) it felt like most of the SOBOs all started within a very short time frame. And honestly? I am so thankful for that.
I could never, ever, not in a million years, have done that hike alone. The CDT is, without a doubt, the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my entire life. From extreme weather in literally every state, to battling with questions of whether or not I wanted to continue, the trail was difficult. If not for all of the people I met along the way, I don’t know that I would have had the will to finish.
When I hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2021, I never thought to myself, “Wow, you know, I could just go home today if I wanted to.” I always wanted to keep going. I had this unwavering vision of myself touching the Katahdin sign. I didn’t have that on the Continental Divide Trail. I had already done an entire thru-hike and I didn’t feel I had to prove myself to anybody this time around, and I struggled with that.
I felt this way especially in the beginning of the hike. I trekked almost all of Montana feeling extremely disconnected from the trail. I think a lot of that was because myself and the group I was traveling with at the time (trail name: Big Pot of Hummus) took the Big Sky alternate route. I struggled with not being on the “red line.” It was hard to come to terms with cutting off over 150 miles of the trail, even though I preferred hiking through the Spanish Peaks and Tobacco Root range.
In the end, opening up to the group I was with really helped me overcome the feelings of guilt and anxiety I had about skipping those miles. The community on the CDT was so different from that of the AT, where it was primarily very purist (about seeing every single white blaze.) My friends urged me to think of the CDT as a wild west adventure, and reminded me that my goal wasn’t to slog through areas I didn’t want to be in, but to have the adventure of a lifetime.
I really took that advice to heart, and spent the rest of my hike taking alts for alts sake constantly. I added miles by hiking through the Tetons and the Gros Ventres. I cut miles by taking
My friends really urged me to think of the CDT as a wild west adventure, and reminded me that my goal wasn’t to slog through areas I didn’t want to be in, but to have the adventure of a lifetime.
ABOVE, RIGHT: Another beautiful day on the trail.
LEFT, TOP: The hike must go on (but first, a nap!)
LEFT: The fifth time crossing the Gila River in five miles.
LEFT, BOTTOM: An unexpected snowy road walk in New Mexico.
both the Gila low and high routes. And for the most part, I enjoyed every minute of it. Without encouragement from the Big Pot of Hummus, I don’t know that I would have made it past Jackson, Wyoming, and for that I am so incredibly thankful.
Eventually, I split off from the Hummus. I was worried that at the pace we were going, I wouldn’t make the weather window in Southern Colorado. I very quickly found another group of people in Pinedale, Wyoming, called The Horde. I didn’t know it at the time, but this would be the group of people I would ultimately hike the rest of the trail with.
I felt afraid and surprised by the weather consistently in both Colorado and New Mexico. Having people around to commiserate with while being rained on in 40-degree weather, or to hide underneath the lone pinetree on the ridge as huge lightning storms rolled through, was imperative to my mental health.
This was beneficial not only my mental health, but my physical well-being, too. Overnight in New Mexico, in our first real experience with the desert, my tent condensed so badly that the walls dripped with moisture. Puddles collected in the corners of my tent and my sleeping bag
PAGE 48
was absolutely soaked. That day, the sun never came out–in fact, it snowed. In the desert. C’mon, there are Cacti there!–for the better part of the day. I spent the entire day anxiously awaiting a break in the weather to lay my gear out to dry, but it never came. That evening, I set up my tent and pulled my sleeping bag out, still sopping wet. I hoped upon hope that my body heat would warm the bag up and dry it. But I was so cold, and the bag was so wet, that it was to no avail. Had I been alone in that situation, I probably would have had to night-hike in order to stay warm. Luckily, one of my group members offered to share his tent and (dry) quilt with me.
Hiking for me has always been, and will always be about the community of people that I am surrounded by, and the Continental Divide Trail has provided me with some of the best friends I have ever met. I am so proud of my accomplishment and so glad that I had the opportunity to meet so many incredible people.
You can contact Avry and see more of her photos on Instagram @avrygoeshiking.
Explore all 3,100 miles of the CDT with the National Geographic Continental Divide Trail Map visit natgeomaps.com CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL
CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL COALITION 710 10TH STREET, SUITE 200, GOLDEN, CO 80401 (303) 996-2759 INFO@CONTINENTALDIVIDETRAIL.ORG WWW.CONTINENTALDIVIDETRAIL.ORG