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C California Style & Culture

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New Vision

Maude Apatow comes into focus

Fresh Ideas From Paris & Milan’s Finest
The LACMA Power
Couple’s New Home
A Designer Quits
Clothes for Art

Givenchy

327 North Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills

Valentino

For what’s hot in the Golden State, visit magazinec.com

43

BOUTIQUES

Seven Golden State stores that define California style

50

STYLE NEWS

Jacquemus lands in Montecito, Ralph Lauren pours the perfect cup in the OC

56

STYLE SPOTLIGHT

The fashion show as spectacle takes center stage in a new exhibit

58

ART & DESIGN NEWS

Jonas Wood aces it with a new tennisthemed exhibition; Noma brings its alchemy to Silver Lake

60

STYLE: MEN’S NEWS

A SoCal sunglasses collaboration salutes the enduring cool of Paul Newman

62

HOW DO YOU MAHJ?

The mah-jongg mania captivating California’s chicest circles

BEVERLY HILLS
SOUTH COAST PLAZA
WYNN LAS VEGAS

68

MAUDE APATOW

How she stepped beyond her Hollywood lineage to take her own spotlight

80 FASHION PORTFOLIO

The fresh new visions of the historic houses through our inimitable California lens

For what’s hot in the Golden State, visit magazinec.com

90

DESIGN SPOTLIGHT

Inside Michael Govan and Katherine Ross’s luminous Ray Kappe restoration

TOC

98 ROGAN GREGORY

How quitting New York for the wilds of Malibu inspired an artistic rebirth

107

DISCOVERIES: TRAVEL

The most stylish stays in four fashion-forward cities

114

WHEN IN NAPA

Napa Valley expert Alexis Traina’s hot spots in her wine country idyll

JENNY MURRAY

Style & Content Director ANDREW BARKER | Creative & Design Director JAMES TIMMINS

Beauty Director KELLY ATTERTON

Contributing Fashion Editor REBECCA RUSSELL

Senior Editors

GINA TOLLESON

ELIZABETH VARNELL

Managing Editor SARAH RUTLEDGE

Photo Editor LAUREN WHITE

Art Director ANDREW WREN

Contributing Editors: Caroline Cagney, Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Kelsey McKinnon, David Nash, Stephanie Rafanelli, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Nathan Turner

Masthead

Contributing Writers: Anush J. Benliyan, Max Berlinger, Catherine Bigelow, Samantha Brooks, Alessandra Codinha, Kerstin Czarra, Helena de Bertodano, Richard Godwin, Robert Haskell, Martha Hayes, Christine Lennon, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, S. Irene Virbila, Chris Wallace

Contributing Photographers: Chantal Anderson, Christian Anwander, Matthew Brookes, Gia Coppola, Roger Davies, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, François Dischinger, Graham Dunn, Adam Franzino, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Lance Gerber, Alanna Hale, Rainer Hosch, Bjorn Iooss, Kurt Iswarienko, Danielle Levitt, Blair Getz Mezibov, Dewey Nicks, Frank Ockenfels, David Roemer, Jessica Sample, Jack Waterlot, Ben Weller

Contributing Fashion Directors: Chris Campbell, Cristina Ehrlich, Petra Flannery, Fabio Immediato, Maryam Malakpour, Katie Mossman, Jessica Paster, James Sleaford, Christian Stroble, Samantha Traina

Executive Director, West Coast

SUE CHRISPELL

Sales Development Manager

RENEE MARCELLO Publisher

Director Digital, Sales & Marketing

AMY LIPSON

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA Controller LEILA ALLEN

C PUBLISHING

2064 ALAMEDA PADRE SERRA, SUITE 120, SANTA BARBARA, CA 93103 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM

Executive Director, Information Technology

SANDY HUBBARD

FOUNDER’S LETTER

After more than 20 years of C Magazine, you might expect a flicker of burnout. How many times can one sing the praises of this state? Haven’t we said it all? Quite the opposite.

There is always another story unfolding, another talent emerging, another corner of this vast landscape revealing itself in a new light. (You may notice a subtle refinement within these pages — a tightening of our design codes, a thoughtful refresh. Two decades in, we’re not slowing down.)

Our cover star, Maude Apatow, may be Hollywood born, but lineage is the least interesting thing about her. There is a rare vulnerability to the characters she inhabits, a quiet emotional fluency that translates seamlessly into our fashion portfolio, where she wears the season’s most compelling pieces with equal nuance and depth.

We also step inside the world of Katherine Ross and Michael Govan, a duo whose influence spans art, fashion, and culture. Their Ray Kappe restoration is remarkable — and the view is extraordinary — but it’s a space that reflects a life deeply engaged with art, design, and the thrill of discovery.

A new generation of designers debuts at storied French and Italian houses this spring, proving that legacy and reinvention can coexist. We captured their new visions in an otherworldly moonscape. And in Malibu, New York transplant Rogan Gregory has reshaped his own path, creating sculptural works pulsing with organic energy on a regenerative farm.

Founders Note

That may be the real secret: passion pursued daily, inspiration drawn from place, gratitude practiced always. Twenty-one years in, I remain grateful to tell the stories of this beautiful, complicated golden state.

Editors’ Picks

Watches that spark wonder

Photography by CHANTAL ANDERSON. Styling by PETRA FLANNERY STUDIO. Hair by CHERILYN FARRIS at Highlight Artists. Makeup by SHELBY SMITH at Highlight Artists. Prop styling by PETER GUERACAGUE.
MAUDE APATOW wears KHAITE top, $3,600, skirt, $4,400, and belt, $980. CARTIER watch, $44,000.

COMING SOON: BRENTWOOD COUNTRY MART

BEVERLY HILLS FASHION ISLAND MONTECITO

C PEOPLE

Chantal Anderson

Photographer Chantal Anderson — who shot our cover story on actor and director Maude Apatow, “Unapologetically Maude,” p. 68 — documents cutting-edge pop culture for the New York Times and Vogue. Her directorial debut, Migratory, won best cinematography at the Milano Fashion Film Festival. She has been recognized by the Art Directors Club Young Guns and was named one of Photo Direct News’s “30 Photographers to Watch.” MY C SPOTS Antiques stores and cocktails in Nevada City • The foggy coastline at Point Reyes National Seashore • A Palm Springs sunset architectural tour by bike.

“The foggy coastline at Point Reyes National Seashore.”

Alessandra Codinha

Alessandra Codinha, who penned “Dressed in Glass and Light,” p. 90, a profile of Michael Govan and Katherine Ross’s midcentury home, moved to L.A. from New York five years ago. Previously she was the style director for Departures magazine, was an editor at Vogue, and wrote and edited for publications including Harper’s Bazaar and WWD. She publishes a Substack newsletter, “Here We Go,” with timely fashion and culture recommendations and travel tips. MY C SPOTS Silver Springs for the best workout in the city • Chainsaw in Melrose Hill is worth sitting on an overturned plastic crate • A Tí for delicious date nights.

“Chainsaw in Melrose Hill is worth sitting on an overturned plastic crate.”

Contributors

François Dischinger

Self-taught shutterbug François Dischinger’s nomadic childhood instilled a curiosity that infuses his work for top fashion, design, travel, and documentary clients, including Architectural Digest and Curbed. For this issue, he photographed “Dressed in Glass and Light,” p. 90. MY C SPOTS The rustic corners of the Anderson Valley, particularly along the Navarro River • Dimitri Dimitrov guiding me to the best spot at the Sunset Tower bar • Driving around Hollywood hills and canyons to look for unusual cars.

“Dimitri Dimitrov guiding me to the best spot at the Sunset Tower bar.”

Spring Issue 2026

Petra Flannery

Native Californian Petra Flannery, who styled Maude Apatow for our cover feature “Unapologetically Maude,” p. 68, has created some of Hollywood’s most recognizable looks. MY C SPOTS Violet Los Angeles for charming patio classic French fare • Monogrammit Beverly Hills, which is a favorite for many Rodeo Drive brands (if you know, you know) • VRAI on Melrose Place to see the Petra and Meehan Flannery jewelry collection in person.

“Monogrammit Beverly Hills, which is a favorite for many Rodeo Drive brands.”

HEALDSBURG | CALIFORNIA

APERTURE ESTATE TASTING EXPERIENCES BY APPOINTMENT.

Expressive Bordeaux-style wines from Sonoma County’s premier cool-climate vineyards, artfully crafted by Wine Enthusiast’s Winemaker of the Year, Jesse Katz.

C STATEMENTS

AMAREE’s in Newport Beach.

NEWPORT BEACH A’maree’s

Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, A’MAREE’s is a longtime destination for the Orange County elite, offering up a mix of Europe’s most sought-after eveningwear (Alaïa, Dries Van Noten) alongside an edit of the very best homegrown California brands such as The Elder Statesman cashmere and jewelry from Spinelli Kilcollin and Irene Neuwirth. Housed behind soaring windows that look onto the Newport Beach harbor, the sun-dappled water casts an all-day glow within that makes for an unmatchable shopping experience. “The boutique functions as a cultural hub,” says Dawn Klohs, who runs the shop with her sister, Denise Schaefer. “We host art exhibitions, designer trunk shows, and philanthropic events, reinforcing our role as a gathering place for creative minds and tastemakers. We approach fashion the way one might collect art — thoughtfully, intuitively, and with a long view.” The siblings, who inherited the business from their mother, cater not to a singular customer but rather a lifestyle of “freedom and authenticity.” To that end, this spring they are excited to stock The Row’s buzzy Margaux top-handle bag in both leather and casual canvas. “It’s one of those pieces we’re endlessly inspired by,” Schaefer says. “That balance of desire and rarity is very much part of what excites us: carrying pieces that feel special, considered, and truly covetable.” 2241 W. Coast Hwy., Newport Beach, 949-642-4423; amarees.com.

Clockwise from top: A curved bar offers up everything from fragrances to sunglasses to housewares — and, if you’re lucky, an end-of-day libation; the soaring windows look out onto the harbor; A’maree’s feels less like a traditional store and more like shopping in a very stylish friend’s closet (hence the friendly pup).

Statements - Opener

“We approach fashion the way one might collect art — thoughtfully, intuitively.”

Just One Eye

At the airy temple of high fashion JUST ONE EYE, customers have come to expect a “curation from the avant-garde,” says founder Paola Russo. Her keen selection services her loyal Angelenos, many of whom she met in her former life as the fashion director of Maxfield by appealing to their “laid-back attitude,” but she warns it’s not to be mistaken for laziness. “There’s passion,” she says, “for wellness, for the arts, and for fashion most of all.” Art and fashion are what make the boutique so appealing. Upon entering the gallery-like space (which boasts a hair salon and fitness studio), you are confronted by a twisted John Chamberlain sculpture and a giant Damien Hirst cherry blossom painting. The setting has attracted international brands — including Giorgio Armani and Yohji Yamato in recent years — that call the store their West Coast home for exclusive collections. (Dario Vitale’s one and only collection for Versace, at right, arrives this season.) This spring, Russo is eyeing the bohemian allure of faded jeans and garment-dyed sweatshirts from local brand Antik Denim: “It’s hip and funky without trying too hard.” She’s also excited about the plush cashmere in rich colors and prints from God’s True Cashmere, cofounded by Brad Pitt. 915 N. Sycamore Ave., L.A., 323-969-9129; justoneeye.com

The Webster

In spring, the Palm Springs shopper is “driven by a busy social calendar,” says Astrid Boutrot, the women’s buying and fashion director at THE WEBSTER. Snowbirds and weekenders can stop by the impressive store — with its high ceilings, oversize windows, and plush carpeting, plus a cactus or two — to peruse an assortment of established brands and exciting up-and-comers. “We start with elegant, low-key pieces balanced with fashion-forward ones for every day,” she says of creating desert-ready looks for cocktails, dinners, and Slim Aarons moments. “But we can’t forget occasion dressing, so we do what we do best: add a layer of unique, exceptional items you can’t find anywhere else.” Boutrot’s highlights this season include designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Dolce dress (at left), the high-summer collection from the Amsterdam-based brand Rohé, and mesh shoes from Miu Miu or Chanel. In terms of trends, she highlights rosy shades (body-skimming dresses and feminine tops) and darkly romantic designs (touches of lace and sheer fabrics in a rich, moody palette). Palm Springs is the most recent West Coast opening from The Webster, which includes a jaw-dropping store in L.A. designed by David Adjaye and a flagship in Miami’s South Beach founded by French émigré Laure Hériard Dubreuil in 2009. 850 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, 352-574-6049; thewebster.com.

PALM SPRINGS
From top: Located along trendy Sycamore Avenue, Just One Eye’s brick facade has an industrial feel that belies the arty, elegant goods inside; works from Damien Hirst mingle with designer clothes from Europe and Asia.
From top: Books, bags, and plants give the store a warm, welcoming energy; a wall of windows brings in the desert sun.

Sherri McMullen

Intentionality, ease, freedom — these principles guide SHERRI McMULLEN when selecting pieces for her self-named boutique. “There’s an openness to mixing worlds: heritage craftsmanship with modern silhouettes, luxury with everyday wear, global designers with a distinctly West Coast sensibility. It’s about dressing for a full life,” she says. McMullen opened her Oakland shop nearly two decades ago and expanded to Presidio Heights in 2024. In a purple-fronted store with large windows she welcomes passersby into the elegant space that includes skylights, moldings, and large artworks. Each season is about perfecting the mix. “We’re known for blending established luxury designers, like Proenza Schouler, with emerging and often underrepresented talents such as Zankov and Diotima (at right). This creates an assortment that you can’t easily find elsewhere,” she says. Championing diverse voices is a key tenet: “I was one of the first retailers to carry several designers who are now highly celebrated. This gives my boutique a distinctive point of view rooted in representation and storytelling.” This season, she’s excited about soft suiting from Kolson, which she pairs with a halter vest from Heirlome, both emerging, female-founded designers. “There’s an ease and sensuality to these pieces that will really resonate.” 2257 Broadway, Oakland, 510-508-0773; shopmcmullen.com.

Statements - Opener

Elyse Walker

“When you live in a place that is warm or hot 10 months a year, that will impact your wardrobe choices,” says ELYSE WALKER, owner of the eponymous boutique she founded in 1999, which now has locations in Napa, Newport Beach, Calabasas, and, soon to rise from the ashes, the Palisades. Walker prides herself on a personal touch. The brick-clad building on Napa’s Main Street has a footfall made of locals and visitors who come for the wine but stick around for her wares. “Our stylists work to understand their lifestyles and then help create looks that will have them feeling confident,” she says. The store stocks a wide range of clothes ideal for romantic nights out at The French Laundry or languid afternoons sipping Sauv Blanc at a tasting room. For spring, that translates into thonged sandals from Alaïa (heeled), Christopher Esber (jelly), and Gianvito Rossi (woven). “No matter the occasion, we have the perfect sandal,” she says. Of the perennial cool Miu Miu (at right), she’s bringing in a summer-ready crocheted dress and a sporty-chic windbreaker in the very on-trend color, lemon yellow, which her shoppers “can’t get enough of.” 1381 Main St., St. Helena, 707-968-6105; elysewalker.com.

ST. HELENA
McMullen opened her Oakland shop nearly two decades ago and expanded to Presidio Heights in 2024.
From top: Elyse Walker’s store in St. Helena, Napa, opened in 2021; new arrivals for spring include a sandal for every occasion.

Wunderkind

“It’s rare to have the owner personally choose every item in the store from more than a hundred brands,” says Philip Manghisi, proprietor of the plush, creamy shop WUNDERKIND, which is tucked into Montecito’s picturesque Upper Village. “Montecito is a monochromatic dream. Most clients don’t love clothing that screams; they prefer pieces that whisper.” Manghisi, who worked at Jeffrey New York before striking out on his own on the West Coast (with two stores in Montecito plus an outpost in Scottsdale, Ariz.), says “comfort is key” when it comes to pulling together the selection for denizens of this tony beach enclave. “California style is a bit more laid-back than East Coast style — the clothing tends to be more unstructured and unfussy, especially in Santa Barbara and Montecito.” Looks lean toward dreamy femininity (Chloé, Hellessy, Christopher John Rogers) or sleek urbanity (Khaite, Savette bags), catering to the local celeb-heavy clientele. Expect a lot of matching sets this spring, which Manghisi says can be styled together or on their own. He’s excited to carry Phoebe Philo’s Pot Cabas Tote in both toffee suede and black leather. “I’ve been a huge fan for years, and this bag captures everything I love about her design sensibility.” Keep an eye out for the Chloé Kick Logo Low-Top Sneakers. “The ballerina sneaker is a big trend right now, and this version strikes the perfect balance,” he says. “It’s chic, it’s comfortable, and it goes with anything.” 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-590-9007; shopwunderkind.com.

SAN FRANCISCO

MAC

“In San Francisco, we are a clothing-optional town, so that opens your options a lot,” says Ben Ospital. He is a co-owner of Modern Appealing Clothing (known as MAC) in Hayes Valley with his sister, Chris. For more than 40 years, the duo has been known for personal service and mix of eccentric and utilitarian clothes. And although the techies may have replaced the hippies over the years, the knowledgeable Ospitals cater to a still-vibrant scene of kooks, artists, and outsiders who remain the beating heart of the city. “We live in an area that honors a life near nature, culture, and food,” Ben says. The pair tries to provide a “sense of discovery” upon entering the store. That translates to Belgian and Japanese labels (Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten) plus leather shoes from 150-year-old Sanders in the UK and suede boat shoes from Italy’s Marsèll. Cecilie Bahnsen’s modern take on evening clothing was chosen because “her couture-like dresses and beaded sneakers are meant to be worn with her North Face jacket designs — anytime, anywhere,” Chris says. For men, they’re thrilled to stock Sacai out of Japan — everything from designer Chitose Abe’s collaboration with Carhart to her main line, which is workwear and outdoor classics spliced and diced with avant-garde flair. 387 Grove St., S.F., 415-8633011; macmodernappealingclothing.com.

From top: Jewelry displays sit alongside Montecito-chic clothing and accessories; Phoebe Philo Pot Cabas tote and Chloe Kick ballerina sneakers.
Painted white brick walls are a blank canvas for Ben and Chris Ospital’s arty-chic clothes and accessories.

Statements - Book

GIRLS ON FILM

Photographer Brianna Capozzi flips the script in her new book chronicling a decade behind the lens

“Not too serious, a bit off, a bit strange,” is how photographer Brianna Capozzi describes David Lynch movies — and, in the same breath, herself. Capozzi credits her playful New Jersey upbringing for the cheeky and “very pop” work (think Chloë Sevigny wearing a lobster) she has compiled in a new volume, Womanizer (Rizzoli, $65). Capozzi combed through images she shot over the past decade for British Vogue, American Vogue, Vogue Italia, Interview, W, AnOther, Dazed, The Face, and Pop, many on location in California, for the volume she calls a “complete pendulum swing in a different direction” from her last work, Sisters, a very intimate look at subjects she cast.

The new book, Capozzi’s third, combines surrealistic images — Miley Cyrus with magnified cleavage, Gwyneth Paltrow wielding a wrench, Selena Gomez wearing giant pink Mickey Mouse gloves, Sevigny aiming a banana gun — with erotic sleaze and her sense of humor. She says, “I wanted to portray this side of my work in a solid, clear way that’s celebratory, fun, light, bright, and humorous.”

“My dad is a toy designer, he made stuffed animals and porcelain dolls, so I’ve always been drawn to play and cartoons,” says Capozzi, who studied at Parsons School of Design, initially making clothes and photographing the garments on her family and friends. For the new volume, she selected conceptual images from magazine shoots with celebrities along with book-specific photos inspired by off-the-cuff ideas. “I’m driving women around in my car. We’re with Hanne Gaby [Odiele] in her basement, we’re figuring it out on the day, experimenting,” she says. “I do that with my friends, but it was fun to do with models.”

It’s how she first connected with Sevigny — a muse she met through stylist and editor Haley Wollens — who has become a frequent subject over the past decade and who penned the book’s foreword. “We took Chloë to my house. My mom was making us lunch,” Capozzi says. “We came up with characters we wanted her to be. It’s still like that; she’s extremely open and willing to experiment.” Sevigny writes that Capozzi isn’t afraid of what can be termed bad taste. “In fact,” she notes, “she

“We can be as erotic or playful as we want. It’s a celebration of women.”

Statements - Book

celebrates it, transforming it into something sublime and uncanny.”

Not surprisingly, Capozzi loves the nuances and stereotypes and clichés of Los Angeles. She shot Cyrus at Farralone House in Chatsworth, once owned by Frank Sinatra, who rented the guesthouse to Marilyn Monroe. “In this business, you’re always immersed in Hollywood,” says Capozzi, who found herself starstruck by the pool where Monroe swam. She has also embraced shooting along the Walk of Fame and at Chateau Marmont. “It’s fun for me to play into all of that,” she says. “It feels like a set, a playground.”

A rooftop session with Gomez brought out the city’s vast and sprawling dimensions. “Shooting above the city is very relevant for her. We were in our privacy, but we still have the atmosphere and energy of L.A.,” Capozzi says. She likes to shoot subjects in their home city. “It’s more relaxed. There’s always someone showing up to set to support them — boyfriends, family members, grandmas. It feels more intimate and homey.”

As for the book title, Capozzi enjoys the wordplay. “It’s taking back this word womanizer. I think I clearly love shooting powerful women and having these exchanges with them, and we’re doing exactly what we want to do without anyone’s opinions,” she says. Power and play between the photographer and subject can coexist. “I like shooting women and making them look sexy and in charge of their bodies,” she says. “We can be as erotic or playful as we want. It’s a celebration of women, and I felt it was a fitting title.” rizzoli.com.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Brianna Capozzi’s portrait of Miley Cyrus at Farralone House; Fanny François on the book cover; Selena Gomez in L.A.; Abuk Adeer at Jeremy Scott’s studio; Cyrus, shot for her album Flowers, in Chatsworth; Dua Lipa in Hollywood.

STYLE NEWS

RIVIERA REALNESS

Simon Porte JACQUEMUS, born and raised in the South of France, has opened a sun-drenched seasonal boutique for his eponymous label in coastal Montecito. His second California shop, in the Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel, stocks bags (including the new Valérie top-handle, Rond Carré clutches, Bambola carryalls, and Bisou shoulder bags), plus ready-to-wear and surrealist shoes ideal for an evening out or trainers for strolling along Santa Barbara’s beachside. A collection of enveloping wool scarves for the morning marine layer is here, alongside airy fitting rooms with billowing drapes evoking poolside cabanas paired with herringbone-patterned terra-cotta brick floors. Provençal stripes appear on chairs and patio furniture, and crashing waves in the distance are transportive. 1759 S. Jameson Ln., Montecito, Rosewood Miramar Beach, 805-9612360; jacquemus.com. E.V.

SHINE ON

San Francisco fine jewelry brand BRILLIANT EARTH — known for its sustainable diamonds — has reimagined its Beverly Hills flagship. When entering the 3,472-sq.-ft. gallerystyle space, visitors encounter a floral mural, striking deep green–washed Venetian plaster paired with calm earthtoned travertine, and jewelry displayed around curated consultations, including suites for private appointments. 329 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills; brilliantearth.com. R.R.

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RETAIL REINVENTED

Online shopping mainstays REVOLVE and FWRD have permanently settled in a two-story emporium at The Grove in L.A., their city of origin. At the center of the immersive environment is a sculptural spiral staircase designed by Swiss American architect David Montalba. Downstairs are lines carried by Revolve, including apparel, footwear, lifestyle accessories, and an expanded men’s selection. Upstairs is an intimate boutique dedicated to FWRD designer collections with a space for circularity with FWRD Renew housing authenticated pre-owned handbags from heritage brands. 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 562-6779469; fwrd.com; revolve.com. E.V.

FIT CHECK

DOVER STREET MARKET is launching a private label collection helmed by Noir’s Kei Ninomiya, with other creators and projects envisioned for seasons ahead. Ninomiya, known for his intricately gathered avant-garde designs, is paring back his aesthetic for the launch of DSM label. He has created a mix of branded team gear that’s chic yet designed for daily use. 608 Imperial St., L.A., 310-427-7610; losangeles. doverstreetmarket.com. E.V.

TRAIL MIX

As the balmy months approach, RICK OWENS has made a capsule — in collaboration with MONCLER — meant for the urban fringes, where cities transform into wilder landscapes and nature creeps in. Kilt shorts and figure-hugging asymmetric jersey skirts pair with Trailgrip Megalace sneakers, all of which take inspiration from the collision of Berlin’s brutalist architecture with the bucolic greenery of the German countryside. Owens calls this confluence “brucolic,” and his palette merges black, dust, and olive tones with carnelian red, using geocamo quilting and embroidery derivative of concrete facades as well as lightweight leather and nylon for the jackets and windbreakers. Tall hiking socks, bucket hats, and waist bags are here, as are pants, T-shirts, hoodies, and light puffers ready for rainy summer streets and wooded tree-lined trails. 819 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323-931-4960; rickowens.eu; moncler.com. E.V.

NEW FACETS

DROPPING ANCHOR

Robert Keith’s new vision for HOORSENBUHS, the cultish handcrafted jewelry line he founded 20 years ago, is emerging at the company’s new headquarters on lower Abbot Kinney in Venice. On its ground floor, the two-story flagship with interiors created by Keith houses eyewear, clothing, accessories, and leather goods in addition to motorcycles parked near bold Open-Link bracelets, necklaces, Phantom cuffs, and Mini-Axe earrings crafted in sterling silver and inspired by ships’ anchor chains. Upstairs is the high jewelry: Heritage collection chains, solitaire or jewel-encrusted rings, and new X collection pieces in mixed metals and diamonds sit in the second-floor salon beside fine art, metal work, and two decades of one-of-a-kind acquisitions. Back on the main floor, a bespoke sound system and live music room nod to live DJ sets and performances ahead. 2320 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 877-8526699; hoorsenbuhs.com. E.V.

Statements - Style News

HARRY WINSTON ’s Costa Mesa boutique has been reimagined during a six-month renovation. The polished white marble salon, down to the marquetry starburst floor, is newly luminous due to a striking central chandelier just as the house celebrates its founder’s 130th birthday. High jewelry and bridal designs are here, as are Emerald, Ocean, and Premiere collection timepieces and beloved fine jewelry, including Winston Cluster rings and pendants. Classics from cascading diamond earrings to tennis bracelets, Sunflowers, Forget-Me-Not styles, and Candy Candy cocktail rings join diamond loops and many more. 3333 Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-371-1910; harrywinston.com

NINETIES REVIVAL

This spring, guests at ASU FIDM MUSEUM are invited to travel back to the rebellious 1990s with Obsessed: Fashion and Nostalgia in the ‘90s. All the designers represented in the show have their identities firmly rooted in the era that embraced individuality, like Jean Paul Gaultier, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, and Anna Sui. Through June 27. 919 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 213-510-6964; asufidmmuseum.asu.edu. R.R.

1. JACQUEMUS goes coast to coast. 2. BRILLIANT EARTH’s newest gem. 3. REVOLVE and FWRD’s permanent address. 4. DSM LABEL is launched. 5. RICK OWENS x MONCLER dress city slickers. 6. HOORSENBUHS heads to Venice. 7. HARRY WINSTON and his designs; ruby and diamond necklace, price upon request. 8. A new exhibition at FIDM turns back the clock to the ‘90s.

ANIMAL MAGIC

Archival codes from the fantastical imagination of ROGER VIVIER loom large this spring as the house, under the creative direction of Gherardo Felloni, reinterprets leopard, tiger, zebra, and giraffe motifs in a series of expressive one-off handbags. The Atelier Animalier collection of Efflorescence Jewel bags includes 11 handmade designs incorporating semiprecious stones, feathers, embroidery, crystals, and paint — to wild effect. From the black and royal blue look of a nocturnal zebra to a hint of the distinctive African equines rendered in pink-and-white strass, each piece is devised with a couture sensibility requiring days of craftsmanship, multiple stages of embroidery, application of fringe, and the poetic use of color. A new monograph out this spring, Roger Vivier: Heritage and Imagination (Rizzoli, $95), charts his endless creativity and influence on 20th-century design. 3333 Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-435-0015; rogervivier.com E.V.

CINEMATIC STONES

BREWED WITH ELEGANCE

Reflecting the Mediterranean atmosphere and coastal tranquility of Newport Beach, Ralph Lauren’s new 5,829-sq.-ft. boutique at Fashion Island includes the debut of RALPH’S COFFEE in California. The sophisticated space achieves Ralph Lauren’s signature design aesthetic, perfectly balancing homey charm with customized elegance, featuring exposed timber beams, warm wood flooring, and arched, awe-inspiring windows. The house’s trademark preppy green hue features in the permanent coffee shop, which serves organic coffee blends, signature totes, graphic tees, and mugs. 401 Newport Center Dr., Newport Beach; ralphlauren.com. R.R.

Statements - Style News

BULGARI has reemerged in Beverly Hills with a flagship evoking cinematic glamour. On the main floor, fine jewelry, watches, perfume, and bags sit alongside the house’s first collection of minaudières. There are scores of designs crafted in gold and set with colorful gemstones in vitrines to take in before ascending a grand staircase to the mezzanine, complete with a Venini scenographic glass curtain, where high jewelry designs and other special collections reside. 401 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-858-9216; bulgari.com. E.V.

BUY COASTAL

Sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard are bringing their jointly named line to Montecito. The warmly toned space with braided raffia wallpaper and terra-cotta floors contains an octagonal vintage McGuire table, a skirted two-tone linen sofa with velvet cushions, and a vintage wooden console stocked with VERONICA BEARD straight leg, slim, embellished, or wide-leg denim. The Veronicas have jointly become masterminds of tailored suiting, easy tweed jackets, maxi dresses, and clutches like the Stash bags with a cinchable top. There are also Penrose sneakers, a Riviera Mesh style, and a sporty Valentina model for walking along the cliffs, as well as loafers, flats, sandals, and all manner of heels for dinners in town. 1269 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805-322-0530; veronicabeard.com. E.V.

1. ROGER VIVIER’s influence spans bags and a new book. 2. RALPH LAUREN’s new brew.
3. BULGARI makes a grand entrance; new Vimini designs inspired by an archival bracelet.
4. A Coast Village Road perch for VERONICA BEARD.

LOEWE Flamenco clutch, $5,750, loewe.com
BURBERRY Tavistock bag, $2,795, us.burberry.com

STYLE SPOTLIGHT

Framing Fashion

A new exhibition probes architecture’s role in shaping how collections are revealed and remembered

shot, the model looked like they were two stories tall,” she says. “It was talked about forever. It was probably what started the arrival of all the other brands from Europe.”

Statements - Palm Springs Art

It has been nearly three decades since Tom Ford brought his Spring/ Summer 1997 Gucci presentation to a private airplane hangar in Santa Monica for an AIDS Project Los Angeles benefit, which revved up fashion’s ongoing obsession with California. The disparate ways shows are brought to life in houses or on farmland, down escalators or at poolside, forms the backbone of Palm Springs Art Museum’s new exhibition, Fashioning Architecture: What the Runway Borrows From Architecture. The show, curated by executive director Christine Vendredi — former Louis Vuitton global director of art, culture, and heritage — explores the crucial role played by the setting of each 10-minute seasonal presentation of new looks.

“The runway is not just a backdrop. It’s a form of temporary architecture.”

“The runway is not just a backdrop. It’s a form of temporary architecture. It shapes how a collection is revealed, experienced, and remembered,” Vendredi says. Through photographs, video, and recorded interviews with industry producers and insiders, she examines architecture’s role in shaping fashion presentations. For Ford, event producer Carleen Cappelletti recalls a location search that ended near the tarmac where her employer, Merv Griffin, stored his jet. “When a model walked around or near the [hangar] backdrop, how it was lit and

The exhibition examines the fashion show as a spatial event. “Architecture shapes the runway, the seating, and the backstage,” Vendredi says. “It guides movement and perception and plays a central role in how a collection comes into focus.” Former Vuitton event planner Diane Dessertenne de Watrigant recalls Nicolas Ghesquière’s 2016 Cruise show at Bob Hope’s John Lautner house in Palm Springs in one of the show’s recorded conversations. “Nicolas wanted to play with this interplay between inside and outside … The fact that the house was in Palm Springs reinforced the Cruise spirit. The idea of transporting everyone to this oasis in the desert, to experience that architecture.” Through June 7. Architecture and Design Center, Edward Harris Pavilion, 300 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, 760-423-5260; psmuseum.org.

Clockwise from top left: The Racquet Club of Palm Springs hosts a 1939 presentation; Jacquemus Spring 2020 looks line a lavender field; the Empire State Building looms in LaQuan Smith’s 2021 show; a John Lautner design houses Nicolas Ghesquière’s 2016 Cruise collection for Louis Vuitton.

True Love Always

ART & DESIGN NEWS

ANALOG INTELLIGENCE

Marking his first solo exhibition in L.A. in nearly 30 years, David Salle returns with a trove of new paintings at SPRÜTH MAGERS . His new work explores AI’s influence on the role of image making, recognizing an undeniable new world of imagery presented by the transformative, data-driven technology. Presented as part of the gallery’s 10th anniversary, Salle presents a rousing selection of works that “extend his long-standing exploration of juxtaposition, ambiguity, and visual resonance.” The compositions are overtly beautiful and hypercritical, inviting viewers to interpret and critique their meanings. Feb. 24–Apr. 18. 5900 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323-634-0600; spruethmagers.com. D.N.

IMAGE MAKER

Curator Kaat DeJonghe actively reevaluates photography in the context of contemporary art, approaching it from a philosophical and post-production angle. Her new gallery, DIE PLEK , opened last fall in the 1936 Modern Creators building designed by Rudolph M. Schindler. 8758 Holloway Dr., West Hollywood; dieplek.com. D.N.

Statements - Art + Design News

FLAVOR LAB

Intrepid foragers willing to try their hand at home cooking, and those who want to taste the fruits of René Redzepi’s labor but lack entry to his sold-out L.A. residency, need look no further than a Silver Lake pop-up. For the first time, the Copenhagen chef and his staff are expanding NOMA PROJECTS outside the restaurant’s home city, stocked with a pantry of items developed in the team’s fermentation lab and test kitchen to bring home. In addition to standouts like Mushroom Garum, Nordic Soy Sauce, Cep Oil, and Corn Yuzu Hot Sauce, already bottled and ready, Redzepi and his team are collaborating with producers in L.A. and nationwide. In April, the group’s new cookbook, The Noma Guide to Building Flavor (Artisan), a companion volume to the 2018 Noma Guide to Fermentation, will join the tasty assortment. noma.dk/la. E.V.

GOOD IMPRESSIONS

Venice has always gripped the imagination of creatives. Claude Monet’s transformative trip to the city, just after the turn of the 20th century, inspired him to paint architectural subjects and hauntingly deserted waterways, 20 of which are assembled among 100 works in Monet and Venice at the DE YOUNG. Devising his version of the Venetian view, Monet worked out the play of light on water and the reflections he’d been trying to depict in his own garden at Giverny. Often painting from a gondola, he studied the sky, canals, open ocean, and surrounding buildings and discovered how to depict their luminous interplay. The fleeting moments and impressions he captured are all at the first exhibition devoted to the works since their Paris debut in the previous century. March 21–July 26.

50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., S.F., 415-750-3600; famsf.org. E.V.

LOVE ALL

GAGOSIAN has the home court advantage with its latest exhibition of tennis paintings by contemporary artist Jonas Wood, the gallery’s 10th with the L.A.-based art-world power baseliner. Wood’s bold volley views — with their flat, layered color blocks and incorporated advertising copy — are, as he has described, “about an interest in abstraction, and how the court becomes a geometric puzzle.” Completed between 2025 and earlier this year, each new work is a linear depiction of a match held at a Women’s Tennis Association, Association of Tennis Professionals, or Olympic tournament from a behind-the-baseline vantage point, and without players or officials shown, as with the sizeable oil and acrylic on canvas, Shanghai Masters (2025). And although spectators are occasionally rendered as repetitious brushstrokes, they always remain vague so as not to fault the overall composition. His first tennis-themed paintings date back 15 years, like Mini French Open, 2012, which fetched just over $208,000 during a bidding war at a 2017 Phillips sale in Hong Kong. Often compared to 20th-century luminaries like Edward Hopper, Wood’s paintings are vivid extractions of modern life in the context of where he lives and works, and of his interests (as illustrated by Nintendo 3, which is based on a video game he enjoys with his children). March 12–Apr. 25. 456 N. Camden Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-9400; gagosian.com. D.N.

1. David Salle, Cap (2025), at SPRÜTH MAGERS. 2. DIE PLEK has opened at the Modern Creators building, built in 1936. 3. NOMA PROJECTS pops up in Silver Lake. 4. Claude Monet, The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice (1908) at the DE YOUNG. 5. Jonas Wood, Shanghai Masters (2025) at GAGOSIAN. 6. Italian design is on display at MILANGELES LOUNGE inside MINOTTI. 7. Don’t miss the DIOR MAISON Cross Cannage collection.

Statements - Art + Design News

PATTERN PLAY

For her latest interiors launch, Cordelia de Castellane, artistic director of DIOR MAISON, looked to the Napoleon III–style chairs with cannage seats Monsieur Dior offered guests attending his salon-based presentations. The motif is reinvented with optical effects blending lighter hues with darker colors for trays, cushions, and throws alongside Miss Dior vases in Limoges porcelain or hand-engraved crystal. The new Cross Cannage collection also incorporates tartan codes advancing the interplay of colors and tonal straw marquetry on limited-edition lacquered wooden boxes with velvet interiors. Another example of the ateliers’ workmanship appears in vases handcrafted in collaboration with Osanna Visconti. 323 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700; 3333 Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-549-4700; 185 Post St., S.F., 415-398-2204; dior.com. E.V.

PACIFIC PALAZZO

In 2004, Mary Ta, a worldwide leader in luxury furnishings, debuted MINOTTI , West Hollywood’s ground zero for modern Italian design. As an installation within the design outpost — in collaboration with L.A.- and Milan-based architect and designer Giampiero Tagliaferri — Ta introduces the MILANGELES LOUNGE , an immersive experience that explores the cultural duality through a honed composition of materiality, texture, tradition, and experimentation. Highlighted, along with a mix of vintage items, are several pieces from Tagliaferri-conceived lines like the weighty and low Diagramma coffee table, Libra bergère and ottoman, and Coupé seating system. 8936 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310-278-6851; minotti-la.com. D.N.

STYLE MEN’S

THE EYES HAVE IT

On what would have been his 101st birthday, Paul Newman is finally getting the style tribute he deserves. L.A.-based OLIVER PEOPLES has designed an eyeglass frame that channels Newman’s off-screen insouciance. The collection reworks the teardrop silhouette, leaning in to bold acetate crafted in Japan. The specs feature an engraved “PLN” temple cap and a racing-inspired core wire (a nod to the actor’s second act as a race car driver). They’re crafted in “Newman Blue” with a faint blue-wash lens — subtle, cinematic, and just tinted enough to suggest you might be ducking paparazzi. oliverpeoples.com. M.B.

HAUTE HIPPIE

GIORGIO ARMANI’s sensual minimalism and the haute-hippie allure of ALANUI may appear to be at odds, but the two brands found common ground on this piece with undeniable bohemian flair.

Statements - Mens

PRADA’S GREAT OUTDOORS

There’s something deliciously subversive about a backpack that looks ready for the trail but is destined for first class. And subversive is PRADA’s bread and butter. Every detail of the new nylon carryall — from the sunstruck shades to the savvy constellation of external zip pockets — leans in to that juxtaposition: rugged in spirit, decadent in execution. The silhouette nods to classic mountaineering gear, but the finish is unmistakably luxe, with polished hardware and a featherlight technical fabric. For a Californian, it’s practical enough for a dawn hike in Malibu or a bike ride through Golden Gate Park yet refined enough to swing into a gallery opening or even a movie premiere. Outdoorsy, yes — but always camera ready. prada.com. M.B.

TAKE ME OUT

Founded in 2016 by siblings Carlotta Oddi and Nicolò Oddi, Alanui built its reputation on the idea of the journey — a Hawaiian term for a long, meaningful voyage. Here, that seeking is distilled into a shawl-collar cardigan edged with a dense fringe and cinched with a knotted tie-belt, equal parts nomadic and nonchalant.

But this is Armani’s terrain, too, and the house subtly asserts itself. The knit is reworked with an abstract jacquard of rhythmic stripes in shades of Armani’s signature blue: inky sky, robin’s egg, and amethyst. The result reads something like taking your private jet to Burning alanui.it; armani.com. M.B.

The Los Angeles Dodgers are so ingrained into the Southern California psyche they may as well come with a palm tree and a side of rush hour traffic. This spring, RALPH LAUREN taps deep into that tradition with a new Major League Baseball capsule. The lineup delivers satin varsity jackets with a high-gloss finish worthy of Chavez Ravine at golden hour, fleece sweats built for cool Pacific nights, and caps that telegraph allegiance from Malibu to Melrose. The collection lands in April, ranging from accessible caps to investment-level outerwear. Consider it a love letter to the state where baseball isn’t just a sport — it’s also a way of being. ralphlauren.com. M.B.

Atlason

Composed Modular Sofa
Designed by Hlynur Atlason for DWR

Tile Style

Mah-jongg has upped the ante with branded sets, custom game rooms, and a West Coast fan club that includes Hollywood royalty. So how do you mahj?

Do you mahj? To the uninitiated, the question registers as playful nonsense. But for those in the know, it’s a moment of recognition of a shared obsession, a secret handshake of sorts between tile whisperers. No longer a game reserved for Chinese and Jewish grandmothers, mahjongg has become a standing appointment in the weekly calendars of younger players across the country, with a particular stronghold on the West Coast. Fueled by celebrity sound bites (Julia Roberts, Meghan Markle, and Mindy Kaling have been initiated), pop-culture cameos (remember that scene in Crazy Rich Asians?), and a booming cottage industry built around the tiles themselves (Oh My Mahjong reported selling a mah-jongg mat every 10 seconds in the U.S. in the fourth quarter of 2025), this exotic-sounding hobby has far outlived its pandemic-era resurgence. As more players pull up a chair to the table, the game is finding new life in the modern era.

The name mah-jongg is derived from the word for sparrow in some southern Chinese dialects. Apparently, the clacking sound the tiles make when they are shuffled and racked sounded like the chattering of birds to the Chinese men who developed the game in the 1800s. In the 1920s, an American businessman brought mah-jongg to the U.S., where the first imported sets sold out at Abercrombie & Fitch in New York City. In 1937, a group of Jewish women in New York decided to standardize the game. They created the National Mah Jongg League, which is still the authoritative body for publishing the player’s yearly “Hands and Rules” card (which is released at the end of each March). Even in its 89th year, much of the organization remains a black box: The website looks like it was designed in the early 1990s, there is no email address, and they didn’t sell online until 2021 (before then business was done only through mail). A woman with a thick New York accent picks up the phone and dodges every question, confirming only that the organization is run by brothers Larry and David Unger, whose mother ran the organization for many years before her death in 2015.

Statements - Long Read

invited to their second home to train their vacation friends: She has traveled to Aspen and Palm Springs, and recently conducted a weeklong intensive in Bozeman, Montana.

If you didn’t learn the game on your bubbe’s lap as a child, you may need to call in an expert like Margie Messinger, a professional mah-jongg instructor, to make sense of all 152 tiles and the etiquette around the game. Messinger has taught at private homes and clubs on the West Side of L.A. for years and originally learned to play at the Jonathan Club (see page 112), which has a strong mah-jongg contingency. Messinger suggests taking six to eight lessons before playing on one’s own, but she often works with clients for several months. “They can play, but they like for me to shadow them,” she says. Most games run two to three hours. But for some, it’s a daylong indulgence with a bartender, catering, and groups of women rotating among mahj and tennis, pickleball, or a visit to the home spa (some even have a masseuse working the shoulders at the table). Once Messinger coaches a client’s inner circle, she is often

There are more than 30 variations of the game (and nearly half as many spellings), but American-style mah-jongg features four players who draw and discard tiles until they complete a hand. There are three different suits (bamboo, crak, and dot), winds, dragons, and flowers, which are traditionally illustrated by four Confucian plants to remind players of the virtues of winning and losing graciously — although many new tiles have eschewed such traditional symbology. Some players also add additional jokers and blanks to the mix, but purists frown on such a move. The misconception is that mah-jongg is about math, but it’s really about strategy, luck, and identifying patterns. Some think of it as a more complex version of the party game Rummikub.

Historically, tiles were made of bone, ivory, wood, or Bakelight and often housed in ornate inlaid cases. Today, every luxury design house produces a mah-jongg set. Hermès offers engraved natural mahogany

For some, it’s a daylong indulgence with a bartender, catering, and women rotating among tennis and the spa.

game table in laminated fabric,” he says. Sikes recently created one with Chaddock that’s available to the public.

Statements - Long Read

At Art Miami last fall, San Francisco gallerist and avid mahj-er Stephanie Breitbard presented the first American-style automatic mahjongg table (previous iterations have been made for Chinese mahjongg) that automatically shuffles tiles and builds walls.

tiles in a calfskin and lizard leather chest. Aerin Lauder makes one in ivory shagreen and Brunello Cuccinelli’s features hand-painted tiles crafted in walnut and Krion. Since 1948, Crisloid artisans in Providence, R.I., have been producing highly coveted mah-jongg sets — many available only in limited editions and often accompanied by waiting lists. Collectors will maintain multiple sets, choosing one to suit the mood of the day (dragon slayers, western, tropical). Beyond standard-size tiles, there are miniature travel sets to bring on the Gulfstream or the Airstream and even AquaMahj — a floating game table from the Mahjong Line that comes with drink holders.

L.A. interior designer Mark D. Sikes has also seen an uptick in game table requests from clients. He suggests placing mah-jongg tables in a library, a family room, or a sunroom. “Not only are they great for playing games, but they are also a great spot to serve meals for smaller groups and a great place to work from home,” Sikes says. The tables are typically square, and he prefers that the table and chairs are mixed in materiality and style. “Our favorite thing to do is swath a Parsons-style

To spread the word about your game day, Alexis Traina (see page 114), the San Francisco–based founder of HiNote — a digital stationery service that lets users send elevated text messages on personalized digital stationery — partnered with the Mahjong Line after receiving countless requests for mah-jongg–themed content. The resulting collection is delightfully cheeky, featuring messages like “Down for a quickie? Need a 4th!” and “I miss you so Mahj.”

The gizmos and colorful neoprene mats are part of the fun, but the game’s true appeal taps into something more primal. Julia Roberts once told Stephen Colbert, “It’s about making order out of chaos.” During the pandemic — in the wake of the Marie Kondo organization craze — mahjongg reemerged as the perfect analog refuge for those seeking to restore order to their lives and find community. It turns out, pandemic or not, people need a screen-free moment to sit with friends and wrestle with the hands they’ve been dealt, both on the table and off.

“It’s a form of therapy,” Messinger says. “If you talk to a lot of mahj players, the one thing they will tell you is it’s very calming and it’s very bonding. At the table a lot of time we’re either laughing or crying. I have met a lot of wonderful people through mahj who I never would have met. Somehow this brought us together.”

DINING NEWS

British Invasion

Scones evoke fancy afternoon English tea with all the fixings. But at WILDE’S , the new Brit-inspired caférestaurant in L.A.’s Los Feliz, breakfast means tender scones with plenty of house-made clotted cream and bramble jam. Or maybe a bacon bap sandwich with brown sauce made in-house. By 1 p.m., the café phase ends, and at 5:30 it becomes a candlelit restaurant with a happy mélange of British- and California-influenced dishes. Chef Sarah Durning breaks down a whole hog every week to create sausages, chops, and more. Thurs.–Sun., 8 a.m.–1 p.m. (café); Wed.–Sat., 5:30–10 p.m. (restaurant). 1850 Hillhurst Ave., L.A.; wildesla.com. S.I.V.

All Bar None

Little Wonder

At just 42 seats, LIELLE, from famed Swedish chef Marcus Jernmark, feels like a posh private club. The vibe is relaxed, with gentle lighting, leather banquettes, and Nordic craftsmanship. The single four-course menu makes ordering easy. Begin with artichoke and citrus with guanciale, black truffles and pine, followed by abalone seaweed rice with fermented hen-of-the-woods sauce and aged squab with yuzu and bitter greens. (Dessert is suitably icy.) The wine list, like the carefully sourced ingredients, is mostly California and from the best of the best. Tues.–Sat., 5:30–9 p.m. 9475 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 213-376-6574; lielle.la. S.I.V.

Statements - Dining News

Fifty-five years after Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse, her pioneering farm-to-table restaurant, the James Beard Award–winning chef debuts BAR PANISSE, a 50-seat walk-ins-only neighborhood cocktail bar next door to the Michelin-recommend dining spot. Designed by Studio KDA in Berkeley as an extension of its influential sibling, the space is led by chef Amelia Telc. The seasonal, ingredient-driven menu includes small bites like sage and anchovy fritters, gulf shrimp with salsa verde and aioli, and a roast Fogline Farm chicken with leeks, fava greens, and sultana grapes. The cocktail program features thoughtful takes on the classics, including a Sazerac that’s out of this world. Thurs.–Sun., 5–10 p.m. 1515 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley; barpanisse.com. D.N.

Next-Door Neighbor

Bar Cecil in Palm Springs now has a space for overflow to have an aperitif or a bite while waiting for a table: the new BEATON’S , a petite and glamorous boîte next door dressed up with a chic leopard-skin carpet, tufted red velvet banquettes, and dramatic black-andwhite portraits of the once famous. Updated classic and creative cocktails from pink-jacketed mixologist Nick Turner are the thing here, but the kitchen under Bar Cecil chef Gabriel Woo offers some swell bar bites, like shoestring fries to dip in black truffle aioli, duck bao buns, and pigs in a blanket. Wed.–Sun., 5:30 p.m.—12 a.m. 1555 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs; beatonsatbarcecil.com. S.I.V.

CALIFORNIA

C MAGAZINE'S FIRST BOOK IS NOW AVAILABLE

SPRING 2026

68 How Maude Apatow went from Hollywood scion to an actor-auteur in her own right

80 The fresh new visions of the historic fashion houses through our inimitable California lens

90 Inside Michael Govan and Katherine Ross’s artful Ray Kappe restoration

98 How quitting New York for the wilds of Malibu inspired a new beginning for Rogan Gregory

DRIES VAN NOTEN dresses, from $700, and shoes, $1,265.

Unapologetically Maude

Feature - Apatow

Euphoria made her a household name, but Maude Apatow is forging a creative path all on her own terms

Photography by CHANTAL ANDERSON Styling by PETRA FLANNERY STUDIO Words by ROBERT HASKELL
MAX MARA top, $945, skirt, $2,090, and belt, $250. JIMMY CHOO shoes, $1,650. HARRY WINSTON watch, price upon request.
PRADA top, $950, jersey, $1,650, shorts, price upon request, and shoes, $1,290.
Opposite: MIU MIU dress, scarf, and sneakers, prices upon request. POMELLATO necklace and ring, prices upon request.

Feature - Apatow

Like most successful comedies, Poetic License anchors its humor in the serious stuff of life: the struggle to figure yourself out at the edge of adulthood or, if necessary, in midlife; the high-wire act of marriage and career; the heartbreak of watching your children grow up and begin to push you away. In a scene midway through the film, Liz — wife, mother, derelict psychotherapist, and auditor of a college poetry class — sits with her family in an ice cream parlor and makes a bumbling attempt at persuading her daughter to stay close to home for college. After her daughter bats away those appeals and excuses herself to be with friends, Liz’s husband leans in and says, “This is the first big decision she’s making on her own. She needs to learn to individuate.” “Individuate,” Liz mutters, miffed at having a bit of psychobabble tossed back at her. “Are you serious right now?”

The film, out in October, marks the directorial debut of Maude Apatow, known for her portrayal of Lexi Howard in two seasons of Euphoria, but also for her Hollywood pedigree as the daughter of director Judd Apatow and actor Leslie Mann, whom Maude cast as Liz in Poetic License. But if you find yourself wondering if there’s a bit of an individuation problem in the Apatow clan, you would be misreading the facts of the case.

Apatow was, by her admission, too young to process the experiences of acting in her father’s films beginning at age 7, typically cast as the

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BING bra, price upon request.
GRAFF necklace, $97,000, and ring, price upon request.
“Euphoria was not my L.A. upbringing at all. The situations are insane, but the characters feel like people you know.”

Feature - Apatow

daughter of the character played by her mother. “We are just a family that collaborates, and we’ve been collaborating for 20 years,” she tells me from a corner table at Hinoki & the Bird in Century City, her hands cupping a lavender hot-honey oat milk latte. She’s not quite recognizable enough that the surrounding CAA agents look up from their lunch meetings, but that may change when the long-awaited third season of Euphoria airs this spring.

It’s not that Apatow failed to find a path separate from her filmmaking family; it’s that having such a family made a nearly impossible path feel possible. “That’s a real privilege,” she says. “I always felt like it was doable. But it never seemed easy. People may think I just assumed I could do it. No! I’m so insecure all the time. I saw firsthand how hard It is. I never thought it would come easy or be easy.” She pauses. “I have to be careful about how I say this because people really” — she doesn’t finish the phrase, but her meaning is clear. Apatow was at the center of the nepo baby furor of 2022. “I never thought it was an easy path. I watched my parents working so hard, and it was treacherous at times. I saw the good and the bad, the highs and the lows of it, and I still wanted to do it.”

Her father’s films notwithstanding, Apatow wasn’t a Hollywood kid. She was more like a theater nerd, performing in musicals since the second grade and directing and producing theater in high school at Crossroads in Santa Monica. (Crossroads’ musical theater scene incubated future stars Ben Platt and Molly Gordon before her.) Two years ago, she started a production company, Jewelbox Pictures, with Olivia Rosenbloom, her best friend from Crossroads and another grown-up theater kid. The pair got their hands on an early draft of Poetic License, by Raffi Donatich, about two best-friend college seniors vying for the affection of a married woman

DOLCE AND GABBANA dress, $5,045, pants, $995, and bra, $675.
CLEEF & ARPELS necklace, $2,740, and bracelet, $2,800.

twice their age. “I liked the tone,” Apatow says. “I liked how she wrote young people. It felt kind of weird and fresh but also very nostalgic. It reminded me of movies I liked growing up.”

Apatow, 28, had spent a year and a half at Northwestern before she left to film Euphoria. She admired how Donatich’s script captured the selfseriousness and faux sophistication of college-age kids. The screenplay’s focus on a mother-daughter relationship also struck a chord. “My mom and I are very, very close, like best friends, and I love seeing that kind of relationship in movies,” she says. “That dynamic reminded me of us, so I was picturing her when I read it. I really couldn’t imagine anyone else doing it better. My mom’s great at hard physical comedy — she can get electrocuted in a funny way — but she’s also great at a sort of super-grounded comedic performance that has a lot of heart. It was really important that the character didn’t feel creepy, since she’s in this situation with two young guys. She has this sort of innocence and naïveté about her that makes it work.”

Directing her mother was not as awkward as might be expected. On the contrary, it was like putting on an old, familiar record. “We’ve always had the kind of relationship with each other where we feel comfortable talking things through creatively,” Apatow says. “We’re very open. Knowing someone so intimately, knowing what they can do and what they’re capable of, how to talk to them — all my experience with my mom helped me understand how she wanted to be treated and how to create an environment for her to do great work.”

Apatow has always bounced ideas off her father, but this time she tried not to ask him too many questions. “I wanted to figure things out for myself,” she says. “But I’ve observed the way he directs comedy, giving people time to play around with things and not being too precious about the way the dialogue is written, letting actors find things in their own voice.” Her experience as an actor also shaped her directing. “I’ve had very positive experiences as an actor,” she says. “But because I know what it feels like to be on someone else’s set, and how it changes from project to project based on the person in charge, it was really important to me that I was creating a positive set. I’ve observed the opposite, so I felt some pressure to make sure that everyone felt good. You get better work from people if they feel supported.”

shoulders, and everything is so intense. And Euphoria captures that intensity. So I think it makes people feel seen and validated. It’s totally dramatized, and the situations are insane, but the characters feel authentic and grounded and like people you know. That truthfulness is the reason it hit the way it did.”

The show returns without the character of Fezco, played by Angus Cloud, who died of an accidental drug overdose in 2023. Apatow and Cloud worked together closely in the second season, and his death shook her. “I don’t really know how to talk about it,” she says. “It still feels raw to everyone. It’s just devastating. Angus was a really special, present actor to work with but also a really kind person. He always made people laugh. This season, we felt his absence. I was 20 when I started on that show, and we’ve all grown up together. When tragedy happened, we were all there for each other in a way that I was very grateful for. It feels sort of like a family.”

In the long hiatus between seasons, Apatow returned to her first love, musical theater, in productions of Little Shop of Horrors off-Broadway (as Audrey) and Cabaret (as Sally Bowles) in London. She bought an apartment in New York and anticipated spending more time there, but over the past year work has kept her in Los Angeles. She is single and lives in West Hollywood — not as far west as the L.A. of her childhood, and not as far east as the neighborhoods where many of her childhood friends have resettled as adults, and which she is just getting to know.

“I’m lucky,” she says. “My best friends have been my best friends since I was 5. I feel super-comfortable and supported in L.A. A lot of people don’t have that experience here, and it can be very isolating if you don’t have

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“When tragedy happened, we were all there for each other in a way that I was very grateful for. It feels like a family.”

For the role of Ari, one of the college seniors, Apatow cast Cooper Hoffman, whose performance in Licorice Pizza had amazed her. “He’s a very special actor,” she says. “He has something about him that reminds me of John Cusack as Lloyd Dobler in Say Anything.” For the part of Dora, Liz’s daughter, she cast Nico Parker. Parker is the daughter of the actress Thandiwe Newton, and Hoffman is the son of the actor Philip Seymour Hoffman. With these choices Apatow may have opened herself up once again to the internet trolls, but she can live with it. “The truth is, they were just actually the best actors,” she says. “We read 200 young actors. Obviously, I don’t want to invite myself to get shit on any more for the nepo baby stuff, so if I didn’t believe 100 percent that they were the best ones for the job, I wouldn’t have cast them. It crossed my mind, of course. But I just thought, I’m going to hire based on talent.”

It’s been more than four years since the last episode of Euphoria aired, and the new season, out in April, finds its cast of precocious former teenagers back in Los Angeles after college. Lexi is now working at a prime-time soap opera as the assistant to the showrunner, played by Sharon Stone. Freed from the context of high school, the new season is less likely to strike the same fears in the hearts of West Side mothers as the first two did, with their frank and often unsettling depiction of teenage sex and drug addiction. “People would say to me, ‘I’m afraid to watch it. I have kids,’ ” Apatow says of those first seasons. “It’s a TV show, and it’s supersuper-heightened. That was not my L.A. upbringing at all. But there’s a feeling in high school that you have the weight of the world on your

that support. L.A. is a place where you have to be very intentional with your plans. It’s not all right outside your door. These days I’m trying to make more of an effort to get myself out of the house.” To that end, she is always on the hunt for the best creamtop matcha and the newest sushi spot. She’s religious about her Pilates. “I sound like the worst person in the world — creamtop matchas and Pilates,” she says. “One of the amazing things about this city is that there’s so much for me still to discover, so much I don’t know.”

For the past few months — between sitting front row at Prada and winning the 2025 WIF Max Mara Face of the Future Award — Apatow has been writing a romantic comedy with her production partner. They’re also developing projects with other writers. Apatow wouldn’t mind returning to the theater in a straight play, and someday she might like to cast herself in something she directs. But not yet. “I don’t know how anyone acts and directs at the same time,” she says. “That is so large. I did not for a second think of casting myself in Poetic License. I barely knew what I was doing. So acting also? Are you kidding me? Respect to Bradley Cooper.”

Hair by CHERILYN FARRIS at Highlight Artists. Makeup by SHELBY SMITH at Highlight Artists. Manicure by CAROLINE COTTEN at The Wall Group. Prop styling by PETER GUERACAGUE. Shot on location at @thebeckettmansionla and @thephillipsresidence.
VACCARELLO top, $3,000, skirt and belt, $5,800, jacket, price upon request, and shoes, $2,350. CARTIER earring, $6,300.

NEW

The desert’s stark beauty sets the scene for audacious new visions from the world’s premier fashion houses

HORIZONS

Photography by JACK WATERLOT Styling by CHRISTIAN STROBLE
Nyawuta wears CHANEL shirt, $4,350, skirt, $6,900, shoes, $1,325, and earrings, $1,025. Alek wears CHANEL shirt, $4,150, and earrings, $700.
Nyawuta wears BALENCIAGA shirt, $2,790, skirt, $8,650, and gloves, $1,150. Opposite: Alek wears VALENTINO GARAVANI dress, $5,300, pants, $2,900, shoes, $1,100, and earring, $790.
Alek wears DIOR dress, price upon request, shoes, $3,000, and bracelet, $2,100.
Opposite: Alek wears BALENCIAGA shirt, $6,190, pants, $1,490, and belt, $450.
Nyawuta wears GIVENCHY BY SARAH BURTON bodysuit, $4,550, shoes, $2,350, and earrings, $1,050.
Opposite: Alek wears GIVENCHY BY SARAH BURTON dress, $8,450, shoes, $2,350, and earrings, $1,050.
Nyawuta wears GUCCI coat, $15,000, dress, $4,980, and earrings, $820. CELINE shoes, price upon request. Opposite: Alek wears
TOM FORD jacket, $5,650, and pants, $2,490. TOM FORD BY THE ARCHIVE X YANA earrings, price upon request. Nyawuta wears CELINE jacket, $3,200, and skirt, $1,950. TOM FORD BY THE ARCHIVE X YANA bracelet, price upon request.
Hair by TAKUYA SUGAWARA at Walter Schupfer. Makeup by CAROLINA BALLESTEROS at Opus Beauty using Prada Beauty. Model NYAWUTA CHOL at Ford Models @nyawutac. Model ALEK MADUK at Freedom Models @alekmaduk.

DRESSED IN

How the director of LACMA and fashion’s favorite art whisperer rescued a modernist icon in Baldwin Hills

Michael Govan and Katherine Ross in their 1958 Ray Kappe home in Baldwin Hills. Govan wears a David August suit. Ross wears a Libertine dress and Prada sandals.

GLASS AND LIGHT

IFeature - Govan + Ross

t might surprise you, standing in Michael Govan and Katherine Ross’s sleek, modernist icon-designed perch in Baldwin Hills, to hear that they were not actually looking for a midcentury house. In fact, “I was firmly no,” says Govan, the director of Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), which houses a world-beating collection of Calders and Pollocks, Manets and Magrittes. These homes often come with a litany of problems, including storage shortages, energy inefficiencies, heating and cooling issues, and little privacy — everything you could imagine not enjoying about living in a 70-year-old minimalist glass box. “There’s an idea that I’m a historian, in a way,” Govan says of his position at the museum, “so there would be an obligation to restore.”

The irony is not lost on him that he and Ross ended up in one of the city’s best examples of its era: the Waymire house, one of Ray Kappe’s earliest creations. Not that it looked so appealing when they found it.

Five years ago, Govan was cruising Zillow on a flight back to L.A. when he came across a threebedroom boomerang of a house. It was smaller than their New York apartment, but it had jawdropping views and was a mere 20-minute drive

Photography by FRAN Ç OIS DIS C HINGER

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from LACMA. Ross, an adviser on art and culture for Prada and Miu Miu, knows a good thing when she sees it: She sent the listing to their agent, and they went straight to a viewing from the airport. What they found was wall-to-wall carpeting, worn interiors (not by Kappe), a petite kitchen, strangely proportioned bathrooms, and a whole lot of wood paneling in need of TLC. The house had been flipped three times and required some imagination to return its glory. Thankfully, with this pair, imagination is never an issue.

“The cool thing about the house was that it had no interior,” Govan says. There was no hand wringing over wrecking a Ray Kappe original with their desire for comfortable bathrooms or a functional kitchen. More worrying was the fact that the hillside had eroded to the point where the house was in danger of sliding away before they could start. It was “like a disaster,” Ross says. “I talked to the engineer,” Govan adds, “and he said, and I quote, ‘Run, don’t walk. You’ll spend more than the house or land is worth trying to save it.’ ” Good thing they ignored him.

First they spent two years shoring up the hillside with the help of an engineer Govan had met through the museum — which in April opens its David Geffen galleries designed by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor at a cost of more than $700 million. They moved out of a house owned by LACMA in Hancock Park, initially planning to stay at their weekend trailer in Malibu during construction, but when the fires hit and traffic became impassable, they took an apartment by the museum with a view of the tar pits. “Incredibly meditative,” Ross tells me of watching the ancient methane and hydrogen sulfide bubble up to the surface. “Like an enormous lava lamp.” Plus, the close quarters were “kind of romantic,” she says. “I felt like I was in my 20s.” They had a card table, a view, and each other. When they got the green light that the new house was firmly on solid

“The engineer said, ‘Run. You’ll spend more than the house is worth trying to save it.’ ”

ground, everything started to fall into place. (Apart from an errant branch that crashed through the roof overhang.)

Barbara Bestor, a midcentury house expert who had worked on John Lautner’s sublime Silvertop in Silverlake (recently seen in an episode of the Apple TV series The Studio), was brought on to manage the restoration. The primary bathroom became a serene, spa-like retreat, including a soaking tub adjoining a glass wall (with careful plantings outside to ensure privacy). A shaded courtyard holding a breakfast table was added off the dining room to maximize the available space. Plus, as Ross says, when you live in what is mostly one big room, it’s nice to have an area where you can close a door — even a glass one. The kitchen was widened and the closets made more up to the task of two people who go out as much as these two.

LACMA is now the locus of two pivotal fixtures on L.A.’s social calendar: the annual Art+Film Gala with Gucci in October, cochaired by Leonardo DiCaprio and Eva Chow; and, in March, the Geffen Galleries hosting the storied Vanity Fair Oscars after-party.

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Clockwise from top left: Calida Rawles’s The Space in Which We Travel (2019) hangs in the bedroom; a view of the dining room, with Sketch, The Hidden Order of the Whole (Venus) (2022) by Todd Gray and pendant lamps by Jorge Pardo; the newly expanded kitchen; Ross’s office holds John Baldessari’s The News: Elderly Woman Slicing Apple with Middle-Aged Man Looking Over Her Shoulder (2014). Opposite: Govan wears a David August suit. Ross wears a Libertine dress and Prada sandals.
The interiors are open, allowing the one-of-a-kind tile floor — a design by Cuban artist Jorge Pardo, a friend of the couple — to flow through the house, gradually deepening in tone.

For the floors, the couple commissioned Cuban artist Jorge Pardo, a friend since Govan was director at Dia Art Foundation on the East Coast, who handcrafted an abstract dreamscape of nearly 250,000 ceramic tiles in aquatic shades ranging from pale aqua to marigold. The tiles flow through the entire 1,900-foot-house and gradually deepen in tone as you progress through the property. Their production took eight months. “People would ask, ‘How’s the house coming?’ ” Ross says. “I’d say, ‘Oh, we’re still waiting for our tiles.’ And they’d be like, ‘How long does it take for a tile?’ And I was like, ‘They’re not your average tile.’ ” Indeed, each individual tile had to be hand-painted, then placed on mats that were painstakingly fitted like a puzzle. The result looks both mystic and microbial. “We didn’t even know if it would be comfortable,” Govan says of the floors. “It was so crazy when we looked at it, like how are we going to live with that?” But as he told Ross, “What are we going to do, put down gray carpeting?” Absolutely not, Ross says. “We are not the gray carpeting people.” (Local fashion designer turned textile wiz Gregory Parkinson was enlisted for gloriously comfy — and colorful — nubby rugs in the living room and bedrooms.)

The two smaller bedrooms became an office for Ross, who fields calls from Europe in the morning and Asia in the afternoon (she sits next to a work by John Baldessari), and a media room where they project movies onto the blank white wall and pull Twizzlers and Bit-O-Honeys out of a big glass candy jar. It doubles as a place for their twentysomething daughter to crash on a daybed when she is in town. (Their older, in her 30s, has her own apartment.) A digital player piano in the entry is an homage to the Waymires, who had a baby grand in the exact same place. They may learn to

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“We are not the gray carpeting people.”

play in their later years, Ross says. In the meantime, it’s just for parties.

Works by mostly California artists like Ed Ruscha, Alex Prager, Jonas Wood, Ed Moses, and Calida Rawles line the walls — but don’t call it a collection. “We don’t collect art, really,” Govan says. He sees that as a conflict of interest. Instead, they have amassed prints from friends or fundraising benefits they’ve worked on or attended. One exception: the piece by their neighbor Todd Gray that hangs over their dining room table, lit by spiky black pendant lamps by Pardo. They borrowed it for a Vogue shoot of the house in July, after a planned-on Warhol didn’t look right, and realized it made perfect sense. “We don’t have any rules” when it comes to hanging art, Ross told me. “You just know.”

Ana Saavedra from Planted L.A. took on the landscape design. The result is a serene and lushly planted garden that feels bigger than it is, creating little outdoor “rooms” for a grill, a pillow-filled conversation pitstyle lounger, or the well-planted carport. Native greenery tucks the house away from the street on one side and doesn’t compete with the view on the other, which glows or sparkles, depending on the hour. “When I come in, even after traveling at two in the morning, the light is just incredible,” Ross says. “It’s so uplifting.” It’s the kind of house (and view) that doesn’t need much, a point that was underlined by the recent delivery of boxes they’d had in storage since the Hancock Park days. “I kept pulling out more and more glassware and dishes, and Michael’s like, ‘You have the kitchen for Downton Abbey, and we live in a pied-à-terre.’ ” She laughs. Ninety percent went back to storage. It is not a tureen-type house.

From top: A work by Ed Moses overlooks an era-appropriate Eames lounger; the couple’s serene primary bathroom features appliances and hardware by Waterworks. Opposite: Govan wears David August. Ross wears Prada. Flowers by JOSEPH FREE. Makeup by AKINA SHIMIZU. Skincare by POIRET.

Out of Fashion, Into the Elements

After a burnout on the New York scene, Rogan Gregory found freedom sculpting in Malibu’s untamed landscape
Words by CHRISTINE LENNON Photography by RAINER HOSCH
Rogan Gregory’s signature linear tattoos, rumpled fedora, and vintage truck with custom upholstery.

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AFeature - Rogan Gregory

plastic tarp, suspended over a white wooden frame, rustles in the wind to reveal patches of blue sky above it. A pair of towhees fly in, dodging a 10-foot-tall white sculpture, to land on a roughhewn bird feeder, scattering seeds on the concrete floor. A fountain hidden in a tangled mass of potted plants gurgles softly. At the center of it all, Rogan Gregory gestures around the structure — an open-air artist studio inside an old greenhouse on a regenerative farm in Malibu — with his paint-stained hands.

“People talk about feeling a connection to nature, and I’m like, unless you actually feel it, you’re not really connected to it,” he says. “I like feeling cold in the morning and warm in the afternoon. I can feel the sun on my back right now. I like smelling the smells and dealing with the rain. My studio flooded this morning, but it’s part of the deal. I get it.” Gregory — an artist, a furniture maker, and a creative polymath — began his professional life as a fashion designer and consultant in Y2K-era New York. Anyone familiar with his career arc might not be surprised to find him here, tinkering away on this peaceful property near the Malibu home he shares with his wife, Be Mayer, and their two kids, letting his imagination run wild. He has a slightly more polished showroom in Santa Monica, where his more refined work is on display — primarily sculpture and functional pieces like seating, lighting, and wall hangings, fashioned in smooth forms from metal, plaster, wood, and clay. But this second space functions as an idea lab for experimental sculpture, rustic fired clay pieces, and found objects that look like they might have survived an apocalypse.

From top: An unfinished sinuous gypsum and gauze-wrapped metal sculpture is exposed to the elements; Gregory’s carved pieces resemble objects found in nature.
Opposite, from top: For additional storage at his greenhouse studio, Gregory uses matte black industrial containers; his sculptures dot the 10-acre property surrounding his Malibu workspace.

“I like things that look a little blown apart, just kind of torched. I like primitive animal and plant forms,” he says. “My parents are academics. My dad was a sociology professor who was a wacky weirdo who made sculptures as a hobby. He never thought of selling any of his art, but I learned to make things from him. My sister is a primatologist. So when we sit around and talk, it’s about science and anatomy and evolutionary biology.”

Gregory moved to New York from Ohio and worked for many years as an era-defining force in fashion, consulting for brands like Calvin Klein and Levi’s. He founded his line, Rogan, in 2001. Then came Loomstate, a trailblazing brand in the sustainable fashion and denim movement, in 2007. He was a Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund award recipient and the creative director of Edun, the fashion brand founded by Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson. What he lacked in formal design or art training, he made up for with ingenuity. He was known for his cool confidence and deliberately undone aesthetic but not for business acumen or passion for managing the mundane aspects of a global brand.

“In the beginning, I was sitting down at a sewing machine, or drawing, and it was great for a while,” Gregory says. “Then I founded my own brand because that seemed like what should happen next. That’s what I was supposed to want.”

From the outside looking in, Gregory was at the top of his game. He and Mayer, a fellow fashion insider and boutique owner, had established communities in the city and in the surf scene in Montauk. Their daughter was born in 2010. He was an editorial favorite, a telegenic guy with endless ideas and a rock-star business partner. But the day-to-day pressures of running a brand in a notoriously fickle industry had taken their toll.

“I got to a point where I had endured 10 years of pain. I was miserable.

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“I just want to make one of something. In fashion, you have sell 10,000 to break even.”
From top: Gregory is a fan of “patina,” like the lived-in texture of his rusty pickup; a scorched Tasmanian devil lives among his collection. Opposite: Gregory’s “fertility forms” illuminated sculptures are wired for lighting and have a bulbous, animal-like presence.

I didn’t know about lawyers and taxes or how financing worked. I got to my late 30s and I thought, I’m in trouble,” he says. “I remember one winter in New York, I was commuting into the city from Long Island to an office where 30 employees would look at me asking, ‘What are we doing?’ I knew I had to do something that made me happy, no matter what it cost.”

Making things was what brought him joy. So in 2014, Gregory made the difficult pivot to creating art full time. Within two years, he staged his first solo exhibition at R & Company gallery in New York. By 2018, he’d developed a successful body of work and a growing clientele. In 2019, he persuaded Mayer to move west to Point Dume, realizing a longheld dream to live and work outside as much as possible.

“Fast-forward, and I have an assistant or two. I have very little overhead,” he says. “My wife is my business partner, and she is super smart, and our skill sets are really complementary. It’s a great business

“ The city wasn’t good for me. It’s so vertical — all the concrete and hard surfaces are so abrasive.”

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model, like making a few bespoke suits a month. And it suits me so well because I just want to make one of something. In fashion, you have to make and sell 10,000 of anything to break even. I like to have an idea every day. I get to do this weird sculpture, and then try ceramics, and then work with wood for a while. I just play and experiment.”

If you look closely at Gregory’s work, the fashion influences are everywhere. There are sleek pieces upholstered in tactile sheepskin, pendant lights that dangle like earrings, inviting textures like woven rattan, sinuous curves, and metal surfaces that gleam like silk. On occasion, he’ll design larger installations, like a hammam and a sauna he’s building on a Hamptons property. For once, the only limits to his work are his clients’ budget and enthusiasm.

“In New York, I was really obsessed with flat black paint. The house, my car, everything was covered in it. It was a palate cleanser. It would calm me down,” he says. “But out here, I don’t feel the same urge to do that. The city wasn’t good for me. It’s so vertical — all the concrete and hard surfaces are so abrasive. I loved the energy when I was young, but today this is what I need. Even though it’s messy and rough in the studio, it makes me feel something that’s good. And I think that’s got to be the objective of art.”

Using gypsum, bronze, or even animal hides, Gregory makes functional sculpture, wall-hung mirrors, and lighting. Opposite, from top: The entrance to Gregory’s studio is flanked by ancient-looking potted palms and carved wooden sculptures; the wellworn tools of his trade.

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C DISCOVERIES

Words by STUART BRUMFITT
Haute Hotels
Rosemary hotel, Marrakech, Morocco.

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

Rosemary

A perfect retreat for design-driven, culturally curious travelers who value craftsmanship, art, and authenticity.

Travel

The fashion crowd has been coming to Marrakech since Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé made it their chic Paris getaway from gray French winters. In recent years, there has been an explosion of hotel openings catering to people who love the city’s louche good taste. One of the latest is the ROSEMARY riad, the perfect retreat for designdriven, culturally curious travelers who value craftsmanship, art, and authenticity. It’s like someone’s soulful private home, standing in opposition to the more conventional luxury offerings in the city. The building was restored and designed by architectural historian Quentin Wilbaux, who has worked on 150 properties in the Marrakech medina. The interior vision was led by Laurence Leenaert, known for the handpainted ceramics, rugs, and sculptural works she creates for LRNCE, the brand she runs with her husband. Original artworks and design pieces are available for purchase, allowing guests to take their experience home. A 40-year-old jacaranda grows through the heart of the riad, custommade scents fill the air, and the floors glow with thousands of handinserted red marble lozenges. One of the main pleasures is its leisurely breakfasts, made with ingredients fresh from the market and enjoyed in a loungey, unhurried setting. rosemarymarrakech.com.

MUST-DO: In addition to the famous cobalt blue Jardins Majorelles, be sure to visit the Yves Saint Laurent Museum next door. It’s designed by French firm Studio KO and houses more than 7,000 of his garments and 30,000 accessories, sketches, and videos.

Clockwise from top left: Enjoy the Rosemary’s beautifully planted courtyard, which includes a 40-year-old jacaranda tree; indulge in its famous leisurely breakfasts made from ingredients fresh from the souk; while away an afternoon reading in its multiple relaxing spaces; don’t just soak up the artisanal interiors—buy them and take them home.

Collegio alla Querce

Rare is the hotel that can place you in the heart of a city and yet make you feel worlds away. But at the COLLEGIO ALLA QUERCE, you’re perfectly placed in tranquillity between central Florence and the hills of Tuscany. It also means that the hotel (once a private villa and a boarding school) has enough distance to offer magical views of the dreamy Duomo. Father-son architect firm Esteva i Esteva have done a stellar job in restoring the historic building while also giving it a seamless contemporary feel. The generous sense of space — along with the Aelia Spa, serene grounds, and an outdoor lap pool — make this a relaxing place to stay. Take an aperitivo in the old headmaster’s office in Bar Bertelli, then follow it with chef Nicola Zamperetti’s homemade tagliatelle with rabbit and guinea fowl ragù in their restaurant, La Gamella. To re-create these dishes back home, the kitchen also offers guests pasta-making and tiramisu classes. auberge.com/collegio-alla-querce.

MUST-DO: The concierge team can arrange a private tour of Palazzo Pucci or Villa Granaiolo, where you can enjoy an exclusive visit to fashion designer Emilio Pucci’s private museum or lunch at his daughter Laudomia Pucci’s home.

Travel

Clockwise from top right: Cheers with glassware galore in one of the 16th-century Collegio’s light-filled suites; find time for an indulgent soak in the enormous bathrooms; take time out from tours of the Duomo, the Uffizi, and the Ponte Vecchio to lounge by the hotel’s clubby poolside and relax in its shady gardens.

Hotel Bella Grande

Copenhagen has long been at the forefront of cool Scandinavian design, but the new 109-room HOTEL BELLA GRANDE feels extra special. The 1899 building’s vanilla facade and butterscotch awnings invite you inside, where the interiors are relaxing and creamy, with accents of rich reds and browns across the tiling, upholstery, and textiles. Contemporary touches include Tom Dixon lamps, Polspotten side tables, and bespoke vanities made by Københavns Møbelsnedkeri. Owners Cofoco (Copenhagen Food Collective) and design firm the Tonen Agency took inspiration from a visit to a Venetian palazzo and its open-air courtyard, and the Italian feel is matched by its lively restaurant, Donna, which spills from the dining rooms into the atrium. No matter how much burrata, ravioli, and Milanese chicken you eat here, you cannot miss their showstopping dessert: a generous pavlova with lashings of cream, berries, and strawberry sorbet. The restaurant is a visual treat too, with a blood red ceiling and luscious pink curtains. There’s also a chilled cocktail lounge to retire to later in the evening. hotelbellagrande.com.

MUST-DO: Hop on the hotel’s free bikes to take you to the nearby old town of Copenhagen, the colorful Nyhavn harbor, and the Strøget shopping district.

from top right:

back to 1899,

Travel

Clockwise
The Hotel Bella Grande dates
but there’s contemporary design throughout; Italian-inspired restaurant Donna delivers on all fronts; the Venetian vibes of the courtyard are an unexpected twist on typical Danish style; baby pinks and blood reds lend a sumptuous feel.

TOKYO, JAPAN

Edition Ginza

Travel

Tokyo’s high-end neighborhood of Ginza is a striking mix of old-world elegance and cutting-edge design, with the EDITION hotel firmly representing the latter. This softly minimalist building is the refined creation of renowned architect Kengo Kuma. As you enter the twostory lobby of this 86-room hotel, you’ll be hit by the dramatic floating white staircase. Up in the rooms, there are warm walnuts contrasting with white walls and bathrooms with sensuous slabs of green marble. The Punch Room bar and the hotel’s restaurant Sophie are cozier, with soft furnishings in bright royal blue and chartreuse. In the bar, try the Kappa & Yuzu cocktail (doburoku, tequila, yuzu, cucumber, and vanilla tea) or their take on an old -fashioned (bourbon, matcha, kuromitsu, peach, and bitters). It might feel perverse to eat a French dish in Japan, but the bouillabaisse in Sophie’s will blow you away. There’s a 24-hour Technogym-filled gym, and although there’s no spa or pool, you get access to the facilities at their sister hotel, the Edition Toranomon. editionhotels.com/tokyo-ginza

MUST-DO: On your doorstep is Dover Street Market and Beams multibrand stores with well-curated local fashion and limited-edition collaborations.

There are warm walnut woods contrasting with ice white walls, and bathrooms with sensuous slabs of green marble.
Clockwise from top left: The striking white staircase lifts the Edition Ginza’s lobby; calming bathrooms feature chunky slabs of marble; the Punch Room bar and Sophie Restaurant pop with jewel-toned soft furnishings; at night, the building’s glow softens the neat, minimal exteriors.

WELLNESS

BY THE NUMBERS

Founder Jonathan Uphoff calls the AI-driven approach of BLUPRINT WELLNESS “the ultimate enhancement to resistance training.” The appointment-based, members-only space combines Technogym’s AI-enabled strength equipment with on-site functional medicine to create a training experience that is measured, data driven, and meticulously engineered. There are no crowded classes or casual drop-ins here. Instead, tiered memberships revolve around individualized sessions, one to five per week, with the option to train independently on the studio’s AI-based equipment. 137 Lomas Santa Fe Dr., Solana Beach; bluprintwellness.com.

Beauty

Targeted Training

Four facilities, including one century-old mainstay, intensify personalized regimens and therapies for improved health

Look no further than the Jonathan Club’s centennial for a reminder that L.A.’s perch at the forefront of new fitness therapies and self-care practices is enduring. And while the pendulum has shifted from leisurely laps inside a grand downtown pool to beachside bench presses to data-driven diagnostics and infrared salt saunas, personalization is still key to coastal gym culture. A handful of new and updated spaces are honing fresh wellness experiences for more focused sessions with expanded menus combining training with nuanced recovery, nutrition, and physical therapy offerings that are as restorative as they are invigorating.

SENSORY STUDIO

HEAL L.A. is understated by design, even though it houses one of the most visually arresting wellness experiences in the city. Cofounded by Jessica Sharratt and Brenda Perry, the studio blends advanced therapies with behavioral health into personalized protocols designed to improve capacity, from steadier energy to sharper focus and faster recovery. “We wanted something beyond traditional wellness and care models,” Sharratt says. The centerpiece is the Ammortal Chamber, one of only two in L.A., a multisensory environment layering sound frequency, red light, gentle vibration, guided breath work, molecular hydrogen, and meditation to ease the body into a restorative state. Cryo dry float, infrared salt sauna, PureWave VEMI, and more round out the offerings. 3201 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach; heal-losangeles.com.

OLD SPORT

REGIME CHANGE

Six next-level necessities to help bolster routines, jump-start new therapeutic practices, and reinvigorate cooldown methods

Beauty

GO PRO

When the JONATHAN CLUB opened its Town Club building in downtown L.A. in 1925, the Renaissance Revival landmark combined social life and sport under one roof. Members swam beneath tiled arches, played basketball and squash upstairs, and integrated the club into everyday life. As the building marks its 100th anniversary, the fifth floor still holds its courts and a grand tiled swimming pool, recently restored with historical accuracy by Tim Barber Architects. But alongside those spaces are Pilates studios, personal trainers, and nutrition services, as well as Health by Medworks, the club’s in-house medical spa. Clinical therapies such as cryotherapy and NAD+ infusions are offered there, and a five-day reset program unfolds in private suites once used by members staying in the city during the week. Although the athletic facilities remain reserved for members, the medical spa is open to nonmembers. 545 S. Figueroa St., L.A.; jc.org From top: JUNA Smart Burn Metabolism Gummies, $58.88; juna-world.com; ASHLEY BLACK Nexcia Basix Fascia Care Kit, $600; fasciablaster.com; BALA The Compact Mat, $89; shopbala.com; EQUIPT Ubarre, $175; equiptmovement.com; CYKLAR Sacred Mandelic Acid Brightening Deodorant, $20; cyklar.com; PRIMALLY PURE Blue Tansy Body Butter, $54; primallypure.com

At CONTRA SPORTS CLUB, performance and health care are part of the same system. Just west of Koreatown, the 7,000-sq.-ft. wait-list-only facility unites physical therapy, strength training, diagnostics, and recovery. Founded by sports medicine specialists Amy Schultz and Jessika Alexander, Contra grew out of their experience in elite sports. Says Schultz, “Real progress happens when the best minds across disciplines work as one team around the individual.” That thinking shapes a client list that ranges from pro skateboarder Paul Rodriguez to members of the L.A. creative community. contrasportsclub.com

WHEN IN NAPA

Alexis Traina

Alexis Traina identifies the most joyful and delicious corners of Napa Valley

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To me, Napa Valley is a tapestry of interwoven tribes of multigenerational families, farmers, winemakers, chefs, and creatives bound to one another by a common esprit de corps and the pursuit of magic. Magic in the vineyards, the bottle, the glass — on the table, plate, drawing board. Magic that punctuates many of our collective daily ceremonies and rituals. We all have different reasons for coming here — the light, air, soil, vistas, sunsets, farmers, architecture, markets, and wineries. And also hotels, restaurants, menus, naughty trysts, coffee counters, bakeries, culinary purveyors, healers, churches, back roads, back alleys, tiny shops, and food trucks.

A favorite pastime is firing up old cars and taking them through the winding back roads of the valley. It’s pure day-cruiser heaven. Stay at AUBERGE DU SOLEIL for a splurge — it’s old-school and sublime. The VINTAGE HOUSE in Yountville is in the middle of everything.

My closet is full of VERONICA BEARD. Luckily, there’s a store in St. Helena. The pieces are the perfect uniform for an effortless, chic look. The NAPA VALLEY OIL FACTORY is my go-to for hostess gifts. Everything about a visit feels frozen in time — the shop, the crazy good packaging, and the even better product. I also insist on sending everyone to VINTAGE HOME in St. Helena. It’s the most beautiful shop for feathering a nest.

For dinner, BOUCHON, always. It’s chic, fun, delicious, and open late, with a genuinely interesting mix of people. I order the deviled eggs, Point Reyes oysters, and boudin blanc, paired with a beautiful glass of red. LEWIS CELLARS has big, bold, unforgettable bottles. They just

“We all have different reasons for coming here — the light, air, soil, vistas, sunsets.”

opened a new tasting room and it’s well worth checking out. HUDSON RANCH has an artisanal, deeply immersive tasting experience.

Each year, my family counts down to BOTTLEROCK and FESTIVAL NAPA VALLEY. They have completely different crowds but equally extraordinary talent.

This place is a majestic 26-mile kingdom tucked away in Northern California, with an exquisite beauty that gives the most visually arresting corners of the earth a run for their money. Its vibrant community of residents, weekenders, and summer folk are bohemians, foodies, bon vivants, oenophiles, tastemakers, high rollers, and artists. Their creative fingerprints have enriched us all.

HiNote digital stationery messaging app founder Alexis Traina has recently introduced Monogram Club subscriptions designed for chic, personalized mobile communication.

Clockwise from left: Alexis Traina unwinds beside one of the vintage autos she likes to drive on Napa Valley backroads; the pool at Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford; her sister’s Veronica Beard boutique in St. Helena; the line’s Ella linen dress; rows of vines at Hudson Ranch; beloved interiors shop Vintage Home in St. Helena.

Rolex

CALIFORNIA STYLE & CULTURE

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