PAUL
at Tower 42
T
here is a distinctly retro vibe to PAUL’s second restaurant in
London at Tower 42 on Old Broad
Le Restaurant de Paul Tower 42, ground floor, 25 Old Broad Street London, EC2N 1HQ
Street. Muted lighting and dark, graphic tiling contrast with shiny
British national dish!). Donald Russell sirloin steaks are also used for the Entrecôte, Brixham scallops for the Coquilles St Jacques Meunière and salmon from the traditional Severn
brass fittings and pops of red, royal blue and emerald green on
& Wye smokery for the Saumon Fumé. There is even an Arnold
1950s style chairs and rugs. The effect is intimate but stylish,
Bennett Omelette – that rich smoked haddock, egg and cream
a modern take on the French brasserie that is quite different
concoction that a French chef, Jean-Baptiste Virlogeux, created
from PAUL’s more traditional look and feel. Yet the PAUL DNA is
for the English writer at the Savoy Hotel in 1929. You can hardly
still there – from the framed black and white photos depicting
get more Franco-British than that!
its bakery origins to the menu, which to a large extent has
The wine list is, of course, French: a small but well chosen
preserved the French classics, albeit with a twist. And, of course,
selection from independent growers, and in true brasserie
it wouldn’t be PAUL without an on-site bakery producing fresh
tradition there are bières and cidres from French brewery
bread for the restaurant.
Meteor as well as an English beer, Curious Brew, made by Kent
At first glance, amidst the charcuterie, fromages, entrées,
winemakers Chapel Down. The cocktail bar is a first for PAUL,
viandes and poissons, burgers seem a bit out of place, and
offering an enticing mix of old favourites with, of course, French
unusually for a French menu, outnumber the salads, but these
flair. With plenty of room to sit at the bar, and comfortable
burgers have Gallic charm, with homemade brioche buns,
stools, it is a tempting proposition to work your way through
homemade relish and French cheeses, and are perhaps a
the list, accompanied, of course, with a plateau ou deux.
nod to the trendy London burger scene. Although French in
Save room for desserts. PAUL’s patisserie is a well known
name, many of the dishes do have British references, or at least
comptoir of delights, and there is more – brioche perdue,
ingredients, making for a delectable Franco-British experience.
profiteroles, crème brulée and that old English favourite, a
We tried the Côtelettes d’Agneau, made in the traditional
crumble – naturally pomme et mure. The most dangerous
French way, but with British lamb sourced from Donald Russell,
option is a Mousse au Chocolat à Volonté (bottomless in English),
butchers by appointment to HM the Queen, and the Colombo
which will either leave you replete and sweet or swearing off
de Cabillaud, line-caught cod in a light curry sauce (curry being a
chocolate for a long time! I KF
50 - info - january / february 2016