Art route Rotterdam - City of Light and Poetry

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24. Giny Vos LIGHT GIG (2013) Otto Reuchlinweg

The Erasmus Bridge, designed by the architect Ben van Berkel, quickly gained iconic status in Rotterdam after its opening in 1996. Depending on the weather and the intensity of sunlight, the daytime appearance may be dark grey, silvery or light blue. Since 2017, the bridge's cables have been capable of blushing with colour at night. They are illuminated normally by white spotlights, but also by programmatically varied colours: orange for a major football match, red-whiteand-blue for national occa-

This railway bridge dates from 1927 and was designed by the engineer Pieter Joosting. The lifting bridge, nicknamed De Hef (literally “The Lift” but with ironic connotations) has been defunct since 1993. Nowadays the monumental structure is bathed in dreamlike illumination. Beams of light stroke upwards to caress the steel girders and diagonal struts of this gloriously robust constructivist work of engineering. Many Rotterdam inhabitants regard

16. Louis van Roode UNTITLED (1959) Delftseplein

19. West 8 UNTITLED (1996) Schouwburgplein

22. Peter Struycken UNTITLED (1993) Rochussenstraat

Ossip van Duivenbode

13. Euromast

The 112 metres tall Euromast was built by the architect H.A. Maaskant in 1960 to celebrate the Floriade garden festival. The pride of Rotterdam was however soon overshadowed on all sides by other buildings. Then in 1970 the Euroscoop, a rotating glass viewing platform, was added to the top of the Euromast raising its total height to 185 metres. It remains to this day the tallest building in the Netherlands. In clear weather, visitors to the platform can see for a distance of up to 30 kilometers. The Euromast is a member of the World Federation of Great Towers. During public holidays and festivities, the Euromast changes its colours to match the occasion!

“A metre more or less doesn't matter to me,” said the avid Reconstruction artist Louis van Roode who designed the western side wall of the Central Post building, originally the station post office. Ceramic manufacturers hesitated to take on his ambitious ideas, so he developed his own techniques for making multicoloured glass-in-concrete windows on a monumental scale. The twenty-two windows immerse the staircase with light in all hues of the rainbow. The sheer height of the entire work has attracted a nickname: “The Cathedral”. The station post office was designed by the Kraaijvanger brothers in 1959, and renovated by Claus & Kaan Architecten in 2009.

For or against? The conspicuous design by West 8 on the Schouwburgplein public square elicits mixed reactions. Four light sources in the form of red lifting cranes, arranged around a metal square, are a reminiscence of the harbour of Rotterdam. They are articulated, and were originally meant to be operated by passers-by. Functioning as theatrical lighting, they illuminate the square from varying heights, creating a platform for festivals and cultural events.

Jannes Linders

The former red light district of Katendrecht is coming up in the world following a promotional campaign. Atjehstraat, a typical street left largely untouched by the urban renewal exercise, seemed out of place in its gentrified surroundings. So it came as a surprise when the artist Rudolf Teunissen proposed realizing an ambitious light sculpture in this particular street, and succeeded in attracting support from all those involved in the area's restructuring. A system of mirrors illuminates the facades and pavements in a rhythmic geometric pattern. At ground level it is like being in a forest with sunlight filtering through gaps in the foliage. Broken Light is the first work of art to replace the conventional lighting of a whole street – an achievement that called for considerable pioneering effort. The work has attracted several international prizes, including the prestigious LAMP Award in 2011.

25. Arno Coenen & Iris Roskam THE WORLD IS YOURS (2015) Tiendplein

As one of the Netherlands' best known public space artists, Peter Struycken makes monumental work in relation to architecture and the urban surroundings. The columns of Het Nieuwe Instituut, a building designed by Jo Coenen, are lit after sunset in colours that change every ten minutes. A computer program controls the red, green and blue light sources so as to project continually changing combinations of primary and mixed colours. The light colonnade is popular and photogenic, with the result that it is often visible in videoclips and photoshoots. This work is part of the Sculpture International Rotterdam collection.

The luminous ribs of this light sculpture shimmer above a century-old electrical substation. The sculpture visualizes a network and at the same time forms a globe in which the Port of Rotterdam is at the centre of the world, indeed of the universe. The lines intersect at 010, Rotterdam's area code. Coenen and Roskam intend the object to boost the selfesteem of the neighbourhood youth: the world lies at your feet, make it your own!

27. Rudolf Teunissen BROKEN LIGHT (2010) Atjehstraat

Hans Wilschut

Ernst Moritz

At 2.38 metres tall, the mild mannered Rigardus Rijnhout (1922-1959) was known as the Giant of Rotterdam. To give a tangible impression of his size, Lamers erected a life-sized statue of Rijnhout with a platform for people to stand next to him. The lighting is contrived to project a magnified shadow on the wall behind him, making the giant seem even larger and amplifying the dramatic effect of the work. The lighting design is by Atelier LEK.

The imposing Wilhelminapier with its skyscrapers is a cherished backdrop for film and photography. The LantarenVenster filmhouse occupies the New Orleans Building by the architect Álvaro Zisa in 2010. Visible behind its glass frontage is a work of light art of cosmpolitan elegance. It uses high-performance LEDs to display an animated sketch of a galloping horse and rider, based on the photography of Eadweard Muybridge. The artist Giny Vos, in collaboration with Invent-Design, used a stop-motion technique to create a software-driven interpretation of Muybridge's photography. Light Gig is an ode to early celluloid film with its scratches and flashes of light. This horse – or nightmare perhaps – flashes repeatedly across the blackness of the night.

Otto Snoek

10. Koningshavenbrug

Built of ribs of steel, this interpretation of the a vanished historic city gate is rather like a three-dimensional line drawing. Kraat modelled his Nieuwe Delftse Poort after the original Delftse Poort that once guarded the main road to Delft. Built in 1764, the monumental gateway was demolished after suffering severe bombing damage in 1940. The sculpture is illuminated like a monument and stands on the original site of the gateway.

Max Dereta

7. Erasmusbrug

The ‘White House’ a splendid jugendstil property built in 1897, is Europe's oldest skyscraper. It was restored in the 1990s and has recently gained a new lighting scheme. Earlier building illumination techniques made the structures look orange or yellowish at night. This has been resolved by the use of directional white LED lighting. The white-glazed brickwork of the facade and the building's rich ornamentation now glory in their true colours at night.

Max Dereta

Max Dereta

Lying amid the flood of new building on the Wilhelmina Pier, Hotel New York is the former executive building of the Holland-America Line. Hundreds of thousands of fortune seekers boarded from this quay on a voyage to the United States, in many cases never to return. The striking art nouveau office building has, since 1993, been a popular hotel and restaurant with an interior by Dorine de Vos. Like the nearby sculpture, Lost Luggage Depot (2001) by Jeff Wall, the nationally listed heritage building recalls the history of emigration from the Netherlands and other parts of Europe. The building is currently illuminated in nostalgic yellow and orange, but a new lighting plan is in preparation.

Max Dereta

A long history of treasure from overseas and mariners' tales lurks behind the neoclassical facade of the Wereldmuseum (“World Museum”), a national heritage building. Built as a Royal Yacht Club in 1852, it included a private apartment for its founder Prince Hendrik to enjoy a reliable view of the yacht races taking place on the waterway. The gifts he received from Association members, shipowners and scientists provided the basis of the later museum collection. The city government established a museum here in 1885, initially as a maritime museum and later as an ethnographic one. Since 2014, the splendidly sculptural white facade has been endowed with interactive strip lighting, designed by light architect Har Hollands and executed by LuxLab.

The wail of distress issuing from this figure, hands raised in supplication to heaven, recalls the bombing of Rotterdam on 14 May 1940. The war memorial was a gift to the city by the Bijenkorf department store. People were initially shocked by its radical modernism, but since then they have taken it to their hearts. Zadkine's much loved personification of the “city with its heart ripped out” is even more dramatic at night owing to the beam of light that pinpoints it like a searchlight from the top of a nearby apartment tower. The lighting design is by Atelier LEK. This work is part of the Sculpture International Rotterdam collection.

Otto Snoek

12. Witte Huis

29. Ugo Rondinone BREATHE WALK DIE (2014) Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen

Clowns, rainbows and feasts, combined with a grimly black sobriety, characterize the colourful work of the Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone. Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen mounted this minimal poem on the roof above the Director's office on the occasion of Rondinone's exhibition Vocabulary of Solitude in 2016. The luminous rainbow evokes the transience of life in a mere three words. Also visible in the photo is the sculpture Sylvette by Pablo Picasso and Carl Nesjar, included in the Sculpture International Rotterdam collection. 30. Judith Herzberg & Karel Martens NU ALLES IS ZOALS HET IS GEWORDEN / Now everything is as it has become (2008) Museumpark

BKOR initiates the placing of works of art in the city, in cooperation with residents, businesses and institutions. The artworks are spread through the metropolitan area from Ommoord to Hoek of Holland, and from Hillegersberg to Pernis. Our aim is to beautify the city and to offer Rotterdam artists an opportunity to display their work to as many people as possible. Rotterdam possesses some 800 works which combine to tell the story of the city. What did the slave trade mean to Rotterdam? Why did the kids from the skateboarding park choose a Transformer as their mascot? Who was the Giant of Rotterdam? Why was Coen Moulijn so important?

28.Robbert de Groot & Cees Boot ROTTE-DAM (2013) Wijnhaventunnel

The City of Rotterdam is a member of the international network LUCI (Lighting Urban Community International), which promotes research and innovations with regard to public lighting and urban design. One of Rotterdam's urban lighting targets concerns the illumination of iconic buildings and works of art. Light provides some surprising possibilities, particularly in enabling outstanding architecture as well as works in the public art collection to speak for themselves.

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COLOPHON This route map was commissioned by the Municipality of Rotterdam.

Now everything is as it has become, now everything is as it is, though ultimately it comes, though maybe, to be what it has to be. These lines, from the collection Daglicht (Daylight) by Judith Herzberg, appear on the facade of the Sophia Children's Hospital, a section of the Erasmus Medical Centre. The work takes the form of lights embedded in the brickwork and lit at night in alternating white and blue. Karel Martens produced the visual design for this work. The words have a poetic bearing on survival and fate in the children's hospital.

LUCI

Max Dereta

18. Herman Lamers THE GIANT OF ROTTERDAM (2011) West-Kruiskade / Wijkpark Oude Westen

BKOR Art in Public Space

Max Dereta

21.Ossip Zadkine THE DESTROYED CITY (1953) Plein 1940

The Kop van Zuid districtwas thinly inhabited and unadorned when John Körmeling designed a work in green neon numerals to be mounted on the Hillekop flats, like an advertising sign without a commercial message. He first proposed making the word ZUID (“South”) in neon but his clients found this too stigmatizing given the previously unappetizing reputation of this area south of Rotterdam centre. So instead he chose the text 1989, the year the block was built to a design by Mecanoo architects. Körmeling's work functions as a mental clock, speaking increasingly of the past as the years go by. The sculpture hinges down when necessary for maintenance work and is part of the Sculpture International Rotterdam collection.

Noordereiland is not - as its name suggests - an island, according to the artist Joe Cillen, but a ship. If the island were to dispense with its bridges it could set sail immediately. Captain Cillen has been working for years with other artists, designers and island residents to make Motor Vessel Noordereiland seaworthy. Part of this project is a pair of light beacons in red and green on the roof of a housing complex, indicating the port and starboard sides of the ship/island. Cillen has convinced the residents of the flats they live in the wheelhouse.

city”, executed in corten steel and backlit with LED illumination, dangle from the tunnel roof. The result is a magical atmosphere in the tunnel, making it less forbidding at night – an ode to the unstoppable growth and positivism of Rotterdam.

Max Dereta

A 24-metre long beam of light balances on the edge of the theatre roof. At night, the unlit theatre tower serves as its pedestal. The beam appears precariously perched although in reality it is securely mounted. The artist said of it, “Just as the beam teeters on the edge of an abyss, anyone concerned with making good theatre must take risks, forever straddling the border between success and failure.”

Max Dereta

Max Dereta

Stories go around that, after the bombing of Rotterdam in 1940, people saw zebras grazing on the grassy banks of Diergaardesingel – originally a moat surrounding the city zoo – as well as a sea-lion swimming in the nearby canal Westersingel. As a memorial to the zoo, the artist Herman Lamers designed a surrealistic monument consisting of four aluminium storks' nests each housing a life-sized zebra. The nests are mounted on lamp posts and form a sculptural installation on the public square, to a design by Lilith Ronner van Hooijdonk.

26. John Körmeling 1989 (1991) Hillekopplein

23. Joe Cillen PORT/STARBOARD (2002) Prins Frederikplein

BKOR is a public art programme of CBK Rotterdam. www.bkor.nl +31 [0]10 436 02 88 Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced and/or made publicly available as printed matter, photocopy, microfilm etc. without the prior written permission of Centrum Beeldende Kunst Rotterdam.

Design: 75B Cover photo: Otto Snoek Rear photo: Ernst Moritz Compiled by: Marjolijn van der Meijden, Nienke Post, Willem Reedijk Text: Sandra Smets, Marjolijn van der Meijden, Nienke Post English translations: Vic Joseph

© 2018 CBK Rotterdam

Also published in this series (Dutch only):

Willem de Kam

Gemeente Rotterdam

V8 architects

Many people thought that Rotterdam's postwar reconstruction had made the city austere and colourless. Cor Kraat, a member of the Kunst & Vaarwerk artists' collective, tackled the grimly modernist street image with humour and irony. Dismay with the monotony of the city was Kraat's main motivation from the outset. “It doesn't have to be beautiful, but it has to be conspicuous,” he argued, and designed this sinuous lamp post. 15. Cor Kraat NIEUWE DELFTSE POORT (1995) Galerij

Euromast

4. Markthal

Otto Snoek

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A major renovation of this bridge started in 2017, and at the same time a new, energysaving lighting combination of red and white LEDs was tested on it. The pylons and their foundation blocks are spotlit from below in a lighting design by Studio DL. The cable-stayed bridge, built in 1981 to a design by Cor Veerling, glows in its characteristic red colour in the city scene at night. The specific illuminations of the bridges Willemsbrug, Koningshavenbrug and Erasmusbrug form part of an ambitious lighting plan for the river Maas and its banks.

Gemeente Rotterdam

Following its opening in 1953, tourists from all over the Netherlands came by the coachload to view this retail boulevard, a pioneering work of urban planning. The Lijnbaan was designed by the architecture firm Van den Broek & Bakema. The traffic-free avenue flanked by ground level shop displays was hypermodern for its day. This was also evident in the neon signs that mark the entrances. The lettering, in a chunky but gently sloping sans-serif, has recently been reconstructed in LEDs. Since its renovation in 2015, the Lijnbaan has been a protected cityscape.

The illumination of Rotterdam's most photographed architectural icon — Markthal (Market Hall), designed by the architecture firm MVRDV — comes not from outside but from inside. The emphasis is on the

6. Wereldmuseum

20. Jan van Munster ENERGY LINE (1988) Schouwburgplein

Mothership

Atelier LEK

3. Lijnbaan

Light as an art material can also impart distinction to facades and streets. Examples include Broken Light, a prizewinning lighting project in the neighbourhood of Katendrecht, and Light Gig, a filmlike horse galloping through the night, seen through the glass frontage of the LantarenVenster cinema. Unique works such as these create new aspects of the city and its architecture. Rotterdam moreover vaunts a wealth of luminous, thoughtprovoking lines of poetry. At night, when the commotion of daily life ebbs and the eerie shadow realm takes its place, imagination rules supreme in Rotterdam, City of Light and Poetry.

The 98-metre tall office tower of the telecom company KPN, one of the first new buildings built on the Wilhelmina Pier in 1999, was designed by the architect Renzo Piano. The facade leans forward at roughly the same angle as the Tower of Pisa. Officially named Belvédère, the building enjoys magnificent views and presents itself on the skyline as Holland's biggest billboard with a surface area of 90 x 40 metres. The facade bears a raster of approximately 1,000 light sources for displaying animations, created by the design firm Studio Dunbar. The entrance hall has been converted into an Experience Centre by V8 Architects.

17. Herman Lamers ZEBRA NESTS (2015) Diergaardesingelplein

9. Hotel New York

Max Dereta

Rotterdam sheds its light on meeting places, on notable architecture and on art. It illuminates features new and old, such as bridges and buildings, so evoking new narratives about the city. Spotlights pick

The master plan of the City of Rotterdam does not limit the sources of illumination to lamp posts. Light can be deployed in a wide variety of ways: high-tech fixtures, ground spots, lights incorporated in works of art, gaily festooned trees and so on. Buildings, sculptures and bridges all have their own lighting plans. LED lighting facilitates a more elegant night-time image now that buildings are no longer bathed in a uniform yellowish or orange light. LEDs can accentuate the true colours of buildings, thereby adding emphasis and aura to the materials. The potential of “smart lighting” is thus not limited to energy saving or a potential for interaction.

Tourists seeking the historic centre of Rotterdam will soon find their way to the Oude Haven (“Old Harbour”). One of Rotterdam's earliest harbour districts, it is now surrounded by Piet Blom's Cube Houses and the designer hotel CitizenM. Yet it retains the aura of a historic neighbourhood and is rich in bars and restaurants. Warm white light illuminates the outdoor cafés, while the district's characteristic waterways and boats receive indirect lighting and the walking routes are marked in blue. To add depth to the vista, trees, balustrades and walls are individually picked out in light. The lighting design is by LuxLab.

Gemeente Rotterdam

The dazzling pace of technology with its smart systems and LEDs offers new and sustainable opportunities for the city to experiment. In recent years, various ways of integrating street lighting into the surroundings have been put to the test. Lighting has long ceased to serve only the needs of traffic and public safety, for it also imparts atmosphere and identity to the city. Once the shops, offices and schools have closed for the day, other aspects of the urban environment tread, literally and figuratively, before the footlights.

The City Hall, built by Henri Evers around 1920, is a prominent historic building situated on Coolsingel, between the nightlife attractions of the Meent and Stadhuisplein. The city's political centre, the place where history is written, is lit at ground level with LED lighting that accentuates the ornamented sandstone facade. The lighting design is by Atelier LEK. The building was miraculously saved from the carpet bombing of central Rotterdam in May 1940.

Max Dereta

For this route map, the City of Rotterdam and the city's art centre CBK Rotterdam have joined forces to show how technically and creatively inspired individuals have risen to the challenge of using LEDs to light architecture, art and poetry. What could be a better place for this than Rotterdam, reputed for generations as the Netherlands' most modern city.

out war monuments, postwar public art and engineering works from the harbour to illustrate how today's Rotterdam came to be what it is. With narratives and accents like these, lighting contributes to Rotterdam's identity as a bustling modern city.

11. Willemsbrug

14. Cor Kraat KRAATPAAL (1978) Karel Doormanstraat / Van Oldenbarneveltstraat

Atelier LEK

2. City Hall

The introduction of street lighting made a world of difference to life in the city. The streets had hitherto been swathed in darkness at night. Like it or not, respectable citizens stayed indoors. Only officers of the law and the occasional midwife would be bold enough to take to the streets, lantern in hand, after sundown. Beginning with the nostalgic gaslighting of around 1850, street lighting technology progressed to electric incandescent lights and then to the LED lighting of today.

8. Toren op Zuid

Max Dereta

City of Light and Poetry

De Hef as the city's Eiffel Tower. The lighting design by the engineering firm IPV Delft colours the bridge moss green at night. A computer-driven system that uses light to suggest a train crossing the bridge has also been devised.

Otto Snoek

Rotterdam

The lighting plan drawn up by the Municipality of Rotterdam raises its profile as the city of architecture by highlighting iconic built structures, such as the widely admired Central Station delivered by Team CS (Maarten Struijs, Benthem Crouwel Architecten, Meyer & Van Schooten Architecten and West 8) in 2014. At night the station becomes a glowing beacon. A boldly lit landmark at ground level, its underground metro station is gently bathed in pastel colours that reflect from the white walls and the high ceilings.

5. Oude Haven

sions and rainbow colours to mark the Gay Pride festival. The thematic lighting of the bridge enhances the evening atmosphere of the city, as well as aiding orientation and marking the river Maas as Rotterdam's main waterway.

Salih Kilic

Max Dereta

ceiling-filling art work by Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam. The Horn of Plenty is a vision of wealth and abundance which is prominently visible both day and night.

Max Dereta

1. Central Station

The River Rotte once flowed through the area of the present tunnel and gave its name to the city of Rotterdam. Two students from the art academy designed a tribute to the city's origins at this location. The “roots of the

Singeltracé, Rotterdam Noord (a walking route visiting works of art in the vicinity of canals in Blijdorp, Oude Noorden and Crooswijk).

Feijenoord Monumentaal (a walking route visiting works of art on the themes of labour, the harbour and migration).


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t 38. Als iedereen ergens P Sm ie t C o anders vandaan Kiebo r komt, is itk ade omplein niemand een vreemde / If everyone comes from Erns tH p pelsone somewhere else, ano is a tr. stranger (2015) Middellandstraat 4 Poet: Rien Vroegindeweij Design: Bart Oppenheimer

rke

gestraat

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ad Vi

eet

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eg

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34. In the future everyone will be famous for 15 minutes (2000) Witte de Withstraat 2 Poet: Andy Warhol Initiative: Vip's, Neon Time Nesserdijk

tr.

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g rwe

t

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43

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ap

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41. Steden schuilen niet wanneer het regent / Cities don't shelter from the rain (2013) Kleinpolderplein 5 Poet: Joseph Brodsky Initiative: Poetry International, Gemeente Rotterdam 42. Van alles is weer waardeloos / All is worthless, as usual (1997) Lange Hilleweg 235 Text & design: Jack Segbars

43. De stemmen van bloed 35. Witte de With light art Nessin mijn zakdoek / The voices e i jk (2013) ofrdblood in my handkerchief Witte de Withstraat (2004) Initiative: Atelier LEK, QNeon, Van Oosterzeestraat/ Business Association Tidemanplein Poet: Edip Cansever 36. De omgeving van de Design: Arno Coenen mens is de medemens / The environment of people is 44. De muur heeft oren — other people (2011) Op onze zwakte rust zijn Nieuwe Binnenweg 125 kolossale bestaan / The wall Poet: Jules Deelder has ears — In our weakness Initiative: Mothership rests its colossal existence (2005) 37. Zie, zie, wat mag er Poortgebouw Mathenesserachter zijn? / Look, what plein (rear) could be behind it? (2003) Poet: Chen Li Wytemaweg 25 Design: Toni Burgering Poet: J.H. Leopold Initiative: Erasmiaans Ber Gymnasium tus

25. The World is Yours

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at

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26. 1989

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31 Poetry

ms

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27tr.

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Oos t Benezeedijk den

e

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1

On the roof of a former insurance office at Blaak 16, you will see a work of art in neon tube by Toni Burgering; its text, ‘All of worth is defenceless’, is from a poem by Lucebert. This work is generally regarded as the pioneering work of poetry as street art, and is well known throughout the Netherlands. However, the quotation came to be seen in a different light in 2018 following the chance discovery of Lucebert's youthful Nazi sympathies. The work of art now arouses mixed emotions. The discovery has added weight to the riposte of Jack Segbars, ‘All is worthless, as usual’, a play on Lucebert's phrase (best heard in Dutch) in a 1997 protest against the neglect of Rotterdam Zuid.

These poetic aphorisms may be aboutKsociety raling (‘The environs e ment of people isew other g people’ 39 by Jules Deelder, location Nieuwe Binnenweg), about change (‘I have to change to stay the Mar Stua ia same’ by Willem de Kooning, rtln. location Blaak) or about the city (‘Cities don't shelter from the rain’ by Joseph Brodsky, location Kleinpolderplein). An 's-Gr aven evening walk in the city hence weg offers ample food for thought

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but always concisely, legible at a glance even to the hurried passer-by.

No Dutch city can equal Rotterdam for the number of poetic works of art in its streets, thanks in particular to Poetry International Rotterdam. Most of these artworks take the form of luminous lines of poetry made with LEDs or neon fluorescent tubing. The words sometimes wrap around corners while others perch high on roof edges.

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Rotterdam aims to raise the quality of city life when it comes to housing, employment and leisure. Public space is significant in this respect if only because of the uniquely designed character of the city at night. Follow the route on this map once the sun has set. Rotterdam by night will open up for your enjoyment. Let the map guide you past luminous icons of city architecture, noteworthy works of art that emit light or cast shadows, and lines of poetry that shine out in the darkness from walls and roofs. This is the incomparable City of Light and Poetry.

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dijk Mathenesser

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POETRY

str.

44


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