THE CONTEMPORARY REVIVAL OF
NEO-HELLENIC JEWELLERY
AENÁLIA is the first Greek brand that focuses on the contemporary revival of neo-Hellenic jewellery. It was founded in 2019, in Athens, Greece, by art historian Katerina Kritikou, whose love for the neo-Hellenic tradition drove her to envisage the redefinition of neo-Hellenic jewellery as part of present-day elegance.
AENÁLIA will take you on an imaginary journey throughout the birthplaces of its collections. An unusual tour around Greece begins, aiming to breathe new life into a lesser-known part of the Greek jewellery history and set it free from its folkloric bonds.
“I believe in adaptability and continuity as a way of surviving in real life as well as in art”
Neo-Hellenic jewellery spans across a broad range of time (17th-late 19th century), space (mainland and the islands) and styles. It combined elements from the European Westand the Islamic East, and formed an integral part of Greek traditional costumes.
Uniqueness and timelessness are at the core of AENÁLIA’s identity, regarding the customer as the carrier of a particular story.
Wearing an AENÁLIA piece means keeping the panorama of the Greek aesthetic alive.
THE COLLECTIONS
CENTRAL GREECE
Dione
Bracelet and earrings inspired by the small “yordani”, the bridal necklace from the Mesogeia region of Attica, worn at the bottom of the neck and attached to the costume collar. It was made up of twelve to nineteen filigree plaques embellished with rosettes, multi-coloured glass stones and coins. Bridal jewellery pieces belonged to the church and hardly any of them were family-owned.
Asopia
The “Asopia” necklace is a contemporary take on the principal motif of “alysos”, one of the most impressive neo-Hellenic jewellery pieces worn by the women of Attica and Boeotia, Central Greece. The celestial symbols of the moon and the star acquire magical properties and remind us that we are nothing but stardust.
CENTRAL GREECE
Arsida
Earrings inspired by a 19th century filigree headdress pin that accompanied the traditional costume of Attica. Since the 18th century, headkerchief pins were very common in Greece. Their multicoloured glass stones, along with the elaborate filigree motifs, added a touch of hopefulness and grandeur.
Ioannína
The flower with the impressive stamens that featured on the gold-embroidered belt of the Ioannina city’s oldest costume, one of the richest in the Turkish-occupied Greece, is now revived as a coral-embellished earring. Split in half, the flower’s twin parts hug the ears with their petals. The Ioannína earrings inherit the name of their birthplace. Allegedly, the city itself was named after Ioannína, the daughter of Belisarius, general of the Byzantine emperor Justinian.
EPIRUS
EPIRUS
Kirna
The roosters transform into a pair of cufflinks. In popular culture, they are known to have the power to avert evil with their loud and distinctive crows. Roosters prevail in the neo-Hellenic tradition, representing new beginnings, rebirth, strength and fertility. In the region of Epirus in particular, one can find them on bridal forehead jewellery from the 18th century, as well as on long chain earrings dating back to the 19th century, and are always surrounded by vegetal patterns.
Tymfi
Earrings inspired by the longest earrings witnessed in Greece during the 18th and 19th century, mostly in Epirus and Macedonia. They were usually decorated with agates, turquoises and corals which were sources of power and protected against evil spirits. Their imperial character, impressive length, as well as the harmonious relationship between their sound and movement relate them to the Byzantine grandeur, yet with a touch of baroque.
Zitsa
Earrings inspired by the crown of Pogoni’s bridal attire,which was an integral part of “stolos”, the local bridal forehead jewellery in Byzantine style during the 19thand 20th century. Nobody had the privilege of owing the bridal jewellery but borrowed it from village to village instead. Art nouveau’s influence lies on the revival of traditional adornments. The roosters represent the newlyweds and fertility.
Trikeri
Necklace, ring and ear climber inspired by the “kiousteki” that accompanied the Karagouna costume of the plains of Thessaly in the 19th and 20th century.
“Kiousteki” was a cross-shaped chain jewellery with filigree plaques attached to the costume with birdlike clasps. It was worn by both women and men.
IONIAN ISLANDS
Nikiana
Earrings inspired by “spathes”, a particular type of earring resembling a sword that was part of the wedding attire in mid-19th century Lefkada. They are decorated with rosettes, pendant drops and flowers. German and Italian earrings of the 18th and 19th century had similar but simpler adornments.
Kassiopi
The Kassiopi earrings consist of dozens of miniscule leaves that are intricately combined to form two parts, whereas their elegance is further enhanced by the subtle presence of pearls. They are inspired by an impressive part of the “kadena”, the jewellery piece that accompanied the bridal costume in the village of Gastouri in Corfu at the beginning of the 19th century.
THRACE
Feres
Ring and hoop earrings inspired by the “engagements”, a type of bracelet worn in Thrace and generally in the Balkans during the neo-Hellenic period. This particular ceremonial jewellery characterised by the rosettes reminiscent of the female breast, was worn by local women from their wedding day until the birth of their first child.
THRACE
Kallisti
Rosette shaped earrings which bring to mind Byzantine prototypes, characterised by a taste for grandeur. They were witnessed throughout Greece with slight variations. This particular piece is inspired by a type that Greek women used to wear in Thrace in the first half of the 18th century. The rosette is the symbol of bliss and atonement.
Syrna
Once upon a time, there was a fish pendant that decorated a necklace that came from the island of Astypalaia. Many years later, AENÁLIA breathes new life into it and turns it into a playful necklace and earring. Despite of it being a timeless symbol of femininity and prosperity, AENÁLIA’s articulated fish pendant carries the Greek seas, their multiple shades of blue, as well as open horizons and freedom.
AEGEAN ISLANDS
Oia
Earrings with funnel-shaped elements inspired by the pearl jewellery attached to woman’s headdress in the Aegean Islands during the 19th century. The abundance of pearls in jewellery decoration indicates not only fashion trends but also the magical power attributed to them since ancient times.
AEGEAN ISLANDS
Kinira
A dazzling neo-Hellenic metal belt embellished with colourful enamel from Thassos island was the inspiration behind the Kinira earrings and necklaces. The buckle of this belt, in the shape of a pomegranate, gave form to the hanging elements, which come alive as they move and rustle. Throughout the ages, pomegranate has been associated with fertility and is often found in buckles.
AEGEAN ISLANDS
Vaya
Earrings and ring inspired by the “fouskato” necklace of Patmos island decorated with perforated bubbles,a cross in the centre and enamel. This particular type of jewellery was encountered in the wider area of the Dodecanese Islands. The enamel technique was highly developed during the Byzantine era meeting the need for polychromy. It gradually disappeared in the 19th century.
MACEDONIA
Ormylia
The Ormylia necklace and earrings, with funnels ending up in filigree and colourful caps, originate from a remarkable collection of Macedonian jewellery in impressive shapes. Their form reflects the influence of the Balkan countries on the goldsmithing tradition of northern Greece. It was believed that turquoise and coral were sources of power and protected against evil spirits.
Ivira
Αn unusual universe is depicted on the coins of the Ivira earrings and necklace. A shining star is surrounded by tiny half moons. The Ivira coins are inspired by the hanging coin of the filigreecross found on the traditional female costume of Alexandria in the region of Roumlouki, Macedonia. This atypical attire, and in particular its impressive headband, the “katsouli”, was similar to the ancient helmet, and the citizens of Roumlouki believed that it survived from the era of Alexander the Great.
MACEDONIA
Ofrynio
Necklace inspired by a long neo-Hellenic silver earring from Northern Greece. The birds, a recurrent neo-Hellenicsymbol of fertility, dynamism and new beginnings, are attached on the most beautiful sphere, the Earth. Apart from being its guests, AENÁLIA encourages you to also become its guardians.
CRETE
Vai
Earrings inspired by an impressive neo-Hellenic necklace originated from Crete. It was embellished with multiple pendants resembling clams. This particular adornment appears to be quite popular in the Greek islands during the neo-Hellenic period, as jewellery of the Saronic islands as well as of Kasos island indicates.
THE SECRET GARDEN LOCKET
AENÁLIA created a contemporary locket rooted in the neo-Hellenic tradition that celebrates the enchanting universe of words. The impressive cylindrical jewellery pieces sewn on the back of the bridal costume of Astypalaia island – intented to avert evil by the noise they produced – is reinvented as a locket. Decorated with elaborate hand-carved blossoms, the Secret Garden Locket opens to reveal a piece of paper for you to write down a message with soul and meaning.
AENA LIA
Photos: Nassia Stouraiti