CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 03 SELVEDGE JKT

2018CLL003

03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

– PRESS RELEASE –

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 History of the Trucker Jacket Until very recently it was thought that the history of the earliest trucker jackets began around 1905. Workwear and Jackets are nothing that new, but the History of Denim or Duck trucker jackets most certainly starts with Levi’s.

One of the most iconic denim jackets ever made is the 1905 Levi’s Jeans jacket Lot Number 506XX. This Jacket is now called the “Type 1” But only in the last few years more evidence has come to light, going back a further 31 years – a part of history which was found in a old rubbish dump: The Levi’s 1874 Triple Pleat Blouse.

We can thank writer and researcher Mike Harris, who’s completely rewritten the history of early denim and workwear in his book Jeans Of The Old West, for discovering what is almost certainly the most ancient example of a Levi’s jacket found to date. It was found in an undisclosed location on Nevada Levi's themselves had known of the jacket but had no sample of the jacket their own archive. On investigation, it turned out that there was an artist’s rendering of the same jacket in the archives – the jacket was in a catalog listing from 1874. Soon after the jacket was acquired by Levis and placed in their Levi’s archives.

Rewriting history 1874, not 1905.

The follow-up jacket was the 507XX, also known as Type 2, by Levi’s. The 507XX jacket is the modernised version of the 506XX. The most important switches in this follow-up jacket is that its less boxy than the 506XX, a little bit longer, they added two breast pockets instead of one and removed the cinch back.

Officially the jacket was introduced in 1953. This same year Levi’s introduced their ‘two side’ Levi’s Red Tab. The first editions of the 507XX jackets were produced with leather

patches on the back neck. The later versions have the paper tags. They switched the leather patch into paper patches as it was cheaper in production so as a counter to the growing denim competition in the market. The Levi’s 507XX jacket became the ultimate worker jacket for cowboys, farmers to complete their Tuxedo style.

Although Levi’s heritage and story is solid, in 1921, Lee introduced its’ first “Railroad Jacket”. Designed specifically for railroad workers, it was named the Loco Jacket and was actually tested by railroad workers. At the end of the decade, Lee also introduced the first denim jacket with a zipper closure known as the 91, which could be identified by a house silhouette on the jacket tab. In addition to the name Lee on the label, it was also inscribed with a “UNION MADE” tagline.

Encouraged by the success of the 91, Lee went on to create the Slim Jacket, the first shorter Western-style denim jacket designed for cowboys. Its slanted pockets made it easier for cowboys to reach inside whilst riding a horse and the wide waistband ensured the jacket did not fold upwards. A few years later in 1933, Lee launched one of its most iconic denim pieces to date – the Storm Rider jacket, which was a winter version of the Slim Jacket. It featured an Alaskan blanket lining, and cord collar and cuffs which were added for extra warmth.

After World War 2 a lot of young people were starting to wear jeans in their daily life. They were the rebels who saw soldiers wearing them in their spare time. Until the fifties jeans were not a fashion item, it was only made for laborers and allowed for laborers to wear them during their work. People from the lower class were wearing denim, so it was very uncommon what these young kids did. The youth was also inspired by the upcoming film industry where rebels as James Dean in ‘Rebel Without a Cause’ and Marlon Brando in ‘The Wild One’ were dressed in double denim, white t-shirts and a pair of boots. Later in the early sixties even Marilyn Monroe was spotted in double denim suits.

In 1973 the film Badlands came out with actor Martin Sheen.

Martin Sheen has a kind of James Dean look in this cult film.

He’s wearing a Levi’s 507XX jacket and a pair of 501XX jeans.

Last but not least, we have the “Type III” Jacket, which is probably the most recognizable jacket style. During the early 1960’s Levi’s introduced the 557XX, also known as the Trucker Jacket. This jacket was a complete modification from the previous jackets, coming in as the first jacket to feature the now famous pointed pocket flaps and a slim fitting cut.

REFERENCES: [1] http://loomstate.blogspot.com/2012/02/make-minetriple-levis-1874-triple.html [2] https://www.heddels.com/2013/03/levis-denim-truckerjacket-review-type-i-ii-and-iii [3] https://www.rokit.co.uk/blog/2019/01/03/the-historyof-the-denim-jacket

1874 - Triple Pleat Blouse - The first ever denim jacket, dating back to 1874, found

by Mike harris in Nevada and acquired by Levis Archive in 2008

2018CLL003 / 03 – 1950S SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Original 1950's Levi's Type Two Jacket acquired in Pakistan during a vintage hunting inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED 1ST PROTOTYPE — MADE BY HAND BY MOHSIN SAJID

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID

1950s Type 2 block inspiration, with added back cinch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Run and Felled armhole clean construction Under collar: banana collar construction for better fitting with zigzag “Van Dyke“ stitching Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons Single continuous stitch holding down 2 pleats which are also holding down hidden selvedge facing Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets Leather backed buttons Hidden selvedge detail on collar, front facing, sleeve cuffs and main body hem Collaboration branded square woven label on chest pockets with continuous stitch

Printed secret pocket bag internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID

5/16” Run and Felled clean construction on yoke seam

1950s Type 2 block inspiration, with added back cinch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons