U&lc Homage - Gothic Couture

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In his 40-year career, from 1939 to 1980, Herb Lubalin (father son of Russian immigrants and mother daughter of German immigrants, 1918 - 1981) revolutionized the American editorial and advertising style. His ideas led designers to change their approach to typography, through what he called “graphic expressionism”: “the use of typography or lettering as a creative means of expressing an idea, to elicit an emotional response from the viewer... and not just a mechanism for assembling letters on a page”.

At the time, no one deigned to have fun with letter drawings, as had been done at the beginning of the 20th century. His way of considering words as images shook up the orderly and regulated vision of modern Swiss graphic design, which had been used until then and especially since after the First World War.

From lettering to graphic magazines

In high school, Herbert Frederick Lubalin (pronounced lou-ba-line) shows no signs of a penchant for art, except that he draws erotic portraits of Tarzan and Jane. This earned him the reputation of being a young pervert... Often expelled but just as inspired, he composed a few posters and won a few prizes. Aphasic and ambidextrous (no voice but two hands), he is necessarily more at ease in writing than in speaking and his bad grades prevent him from studying law or medicine as his parents would like. Because the competition is free, he joins by chance the university of art and architecture Cooper Union (of which he will draw the logo later) and discovers there a passion for the typography.

When he is given an assignment in calligraphy, his teacher is convinced that he is left-handed and that holding the pen with his right hand will be a real difficulty. As he is ambidextrous but did not bother to specify it... he completes the task rather easily and obtains the best mark, not because he is the best but because the teacher

wishes to encourage him despite his “handicap”. This trick will give him the confidence to continue. He quickly becomes one of the best students and learns to think and implement graphic solutions. If his technique is not very advanced at the end of his studies, as he explains in an interview in 1969, he has the merit of being ahead of the game in terms of design and research of ideas.

Upon graduation, he began his artistic career by designing, like many others, lettering for a sign company in New York for the 1939 World’s Fair. Fired for asking for a $2 raise (about $40 today), Lubalin freelanced for magazines and agencies or did art direction for book covers for Samuel Adler, who did the illustrations. These covers (1943) are the earliest surviving works by Lubalin. His style, far from the one for which he would become known, was inspired by the book cover work of George Salter, a professor at the Cooper Union who taught Milton Glaser, among others.

In 1945, Lubalin began his career at the Sudler & Henessey studio as an Art Director specializing in pharmaceutical advertising. He created, among other things, a packaging for a cockroach spray, cough syrups or suppositories... It was there that he began to use words as images, cutting out and playing with prints made from lead type assemblies. He stayed there for nineteen years and said he “didn’t do anything very interesting” until he won the New York Art Directors’ Gold Medal in 1952. During his career, Lubalin created postage stamps as well as posters, magazines or posters, and composed with the American social reality. As his career progressed and his associates came and went, he recomposed the logo of his graphic design studio.

The birth of a graphic designer and a consumer society

In the 1940’s when Herb started working, being a layout artist meant putting titles, text and images into the available space. The images were printed on glossy paper and collected in sheets in the middle of the books. The profession of graphic designer as we understand it today did not exist yet, we found then advertising designers, visual artists who collaborated with typographers and illustrators, retouchers and calligraphers... in a complementary but separate work, and without direct link with the customer. Poster artists, true artists since the golden age of the poster at the end of the 19th century, mastered several of these specialties at once.

The Second World War brought large migrations from Europe and Russia to the United States and the working methods evolved and mixed. After the Second World War, American society slowly embarked on what would become a few years later a frenetic consumer society, driven by marketing and

advertising in full swing. Bill Bernbach, the B of DDB, decided to make art directors and copywriters work hand in hand for greater efficiency, and thus revolutionized the way agencies operated. To accompany this growing consumption and the economic boom, the first complete corporate images were also created in the United States in the 1950s, which were used on a variety of media, on television, in magazines or for in-house promotions. The profession of graphic designer was recognized as a profession in its own right. Herb is lucky, his passion for letters allows him to make visible objects that do not speak (like him).

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Play with words

At Sudler & Henessey Herb Lubalin was inspired by the book Typography (1961) by Aaron Burns, a graphic designer and publisher whose collections exemplify modern American graphic design, supported by an industry that offers quality photography, typography and printing.

When given the layout of the Saturday Evening Post in 1961, Lubalin enlarged the word POST by writing The Saturday Evening inside the O. He also replaced the illustrations with photographs. He also replaced the illustrations with photographs, which was not without displeasure to the readers, and announced his bold and assertive graphic style. The magazine, with a more modern style and a more visible title, takes back its old logo one year later...

In 1964, then vice president, creative director and partner of Sudler & Henessey Lubalin said he was “tired of advertising” and opened his own graphic design firm. He still says he loves advertising but wants to work “in sufficient quantity with the right people” and not limit himself to advertising alone. It’s a liberation for him, marking a creative turning point in his work. Lubalin assembles elements with pen on tissue paper and layers them like layers until he gets the perfect effect. He thinks about slogans and layout to make the idea impactful. The art director attracts and surrounds himself with talented illustrators, photographers and typographers whom he identifies and collaborates with to design brand identities, directly with the client (below in 1958 and 1969).

Herb Lubalin is thus graphically committed against the excesses of politics such as war, by creating for the magazine of black Americans Ebony, or for Jewish philanthropic works.

Quality before quantity

In the 1960s, he worked with the editor and publisher Ralph Ginzburg, with whom he collaborated “like Siamese twins” and designed the magazines Eros in 1962, Fact: from 1964 to 1967 and Avant Garde from 1968 to 1972. These magazines, although they were not published for long, nevertheless marked the history of graphic design. Eros, the “magazine of love” with erotic images and quality is unjustly controversial as “obscene material” after the publication of only 4 issues, and sends Ginzburg to prison, which Lubalin escapes. Appreciated for the quality of its layout and content, Eros won more awards in 1963 than any other American magazine! The interior, which can be viewed on this site and from which we have taken the visuals below, reveals a rich and varied layout, alternating photographs and illustrations.

Upon his release from prison, Ginzburg publishes Fact, once again in partnership with Lubalin. Still the art director, he designed the logo and layout at a low cost and entirely in black and white, using Times Bold on the cover and Regular inside in two columns. Fact: is a politically engaged magazine that supports or denounces causes through investigative journalism. Its minimalism, its unique serif typeface, the facts stated on the cover and its unique illustrator make it a kind of statement, a manifesto, announced by the name, fact, in which the use of typography is a bold, innovative and visionary tool.

In 1964, Lubalin created the identity for Sprite, Coca-Cola’s new drink, in collaboration with the client’s teams. The identity is sparkling and fresh, inspired by pop art, but somewhat diluted compared to what he is used to doing. A few months later, Lubalin published a fact: sheet that denounced the client’s products. Strangely, or perhaps because he was one of the best ADs of the time, Coca-Cola continued to work with him.

The magazine Avant Garde, still created by the duo, deals with American society, politics, eroticism and photography. It will be the support of the most advanced graphic expression of the graphic designer-typographer, on square format.

A new typographic style

The design of the logo of this third magazine gives him a hard time but leads to a unique design that will make Avant Garde an immediately recognizable acronym, which he creates through the use of a technological innovation: photocomposition. Photocomposition allows the creation of models and lines of text by photographic principle using films cut and assembled on

transparent supports. It offers a great creative flexibility and frees from the constraint of lead type used since the Linotype... in 1885. Lubalin can thus compose words with great freedom and as if they were images, whether they are headings, logos or magazine titles. He would say of this, “Now the blades, the clamps, are finished, finished. The new techniques allow me to break all the rules of all the typography manuals, easily, effictively, and legibly.” cit. Avantgarde typography in the U.S.A.

Eclectic and innovative, Lubalin broke away from the old typographic models and the International Suisse style to promote the emergence of a new graphic design through the use of photocomposition, which revolutionized graphic design in the 1960s. It allowed him to play with letters by reversing and superimposing the characters, to reuse Victorian or antique typography and to invent new ones. The Avant Garde logo is a good example, with the G and A becoming a ligature. Lubalin used geometric lineal typefaces, reducing the lettering as much as possible until the letters overlapped. He created the complete alphabet, the Avant Garde Gothic, which he declined in capital letters with numerous ligatures (designed by Tom Carnase) to allow for numerous typographic games. Ten years later he designed a lowercase version that he distributed through his ITC foundry. Lubalin was however dismayed by the use of the typeface by graphic designers, except for those of Adidas and Audi (see the 1970 advertisements below) whom he congratulated directly.

The return of gesture in typography

Lubalin reinjects into modern typography, which until then had been neutral and mechanized by the use of universal geometric typefaces, the trace of manual gesture that had disappeared with the New Typography of the modernists of the 1920s. The letter becomes image, as in the first pictographic writings, except that unlike the pictographs it is the letters assembled in words which form the drawing, and not just a sign alone. Freed from the constraints of lead as in the invention of lithography in the nineteenth century, he is in some ways similar to the ornamental explorations of William Morris (a leading figure in the Arts & Crafts movement which advocated the valorization of handicrafts) or the artists/ graphic artists of the Viennese Secession such as Moser or Klimt (below, circa 1905), except that his work is done with machines.

The use of Letraset, typefaces on transfer paper that can be bought in sheets like stickers and arranged on the paper with a pen, allows a new typographic style to take flight of which Lubalin is the figurehead. He follows in the footsteps of László MoholyNagy (Hungarian professor at the Bauhaus, influenced by Russian constructivism), who insists on the integration of images to directly illustrate text in his book Vision in Motion, and of Paul Rand, who uses typography and page layout to convey an idea. His logos convey a visual message (you will find other examples in the book Herb Lubalin, Art Director, Graphic Designer and Typographer, visible in gallery on flickr).

The art of typographic logos

During his career, Herb will design hundreds of visual identities and as many logos. He perfected his art of playing with letters, transforming an ampersand into a fetus in the “Mother & Child” logo. A logo originally designed for a magazine that, unfortunately, was never to be published. This logo remained Lubalin’s favorite for years. He was finally able to reuse it several years after its creation for the cover of a book entitled “Mother & Son”.

In 1966, the City of New York invited the Lubalin studio to create a logo that could be used to identify the city. The logo was approved but apparently never used. Lubalin says he once saw it on a truck. The lettering was done by his son Robert Lubalin. It is reminiscent of the WGBH logo, created a few years later, and even the current New York City logo.

In 1979, Lubalin even worked in France, to do the visual identity of the 3 Suisses. This is a good example of where the studio used a more modernist approach. The shadow on the letters recalls the NY NY logo done almost a decade earlier.

In 1970, 10 years before his death, Lubalin co-founded with Burns the International Typeface Corporation (ITC), the first virtual typographic library that also fought for fair pay for type designers, and the magazine U&lc (Up & lower case), which he illustrated and for which he was artistic director. The ITC offers 4x a year to the industrialists new typographic collections, and incidentally the typefaces of Lubalin, that they only have to photograph and manufacture. This is a considerable time saver. The new typefaces are distributed free of charge around the world to studios, agencies and designers in the magazine U&lc. Both set the tone for this new worldwide typographic impulse that breaks the codes of modernism, echoing the liberation and humanization of society in the face of rising criticism of mass consumption and standardization. The technological revolution liberates the graphic gesture

It is said that Herb Lubalin revolutionized the way typefaces are used as images, but it should not be forgotten that he is the heir to a long line of artists/graphic designers who played with letters before him. A parallel can be drawn between creative liberation and the technological revolution brought about by photo-composition, and the typographic experiments of the beginning of the 20th century which used text as a visual element, following the revolution of lithography, and later on collage. One thinks in particular of the words in freedom of Filippo Tommaso Marinetti or the work of El Lissitzky, Russian constructivist. Lubalin’s real strength was to draw sets of words as images, and to consider them as such in the layouts, allowing the elaboration of graphics composed only of texts, but as beautiful and exciting as images. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but for Herb Lubalin, it’s the other way around!

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8. Accessories are crucial. Elaborate chokers, ornate headpieces, pins and exquisite jewelry, often inspired by vintage designs and Gothic architecture, add a finishing touch to the ensemble.

7. Vivienne Westwood, often hailed as the “Queen of Punk,” is a trailblazing fashion icon who revolutionized the industry with her rebellious and anarchic designs. Emerging in the 1970s alongside the punk rock movement, Westwood’s creations embodied a fierce spirit of nonconformity and defiance. Her punk-inspired garments, featuring safety pins, ripped textiles, and provocative slogans, challenged traditional fashion norms and defined a generation of subversive style. Beyond her punk roots, Westwood’s career has evolved to encompass high fashion and eco-conscious designs, showcasing her enduring influence and commitment to pushing boundaries. Her legacy as the Queen of Punk continues to inspire and shape the ever-evolving landscape of fashion.

10. Gothic couture finds inspiration in the human anatomy, celebrating its beauty and vulnerability. Garments embrace natural curves, while details like embroidery resembling veins or bone structures add a poetic exploration of form and emotion. As designers continue to push the boundaries of gothic couture, they weave a narrative that blurs the lines between darkness and sensuality, inviting wearers to embrace their inner mysteries.

11. Each photograph is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship and evokes emotions that transcend the boundaries of fashion. It captures Gothic couture’s allure, preserving its timeless appeal and showcasing its mystique. Photography transforms these garments into visual masterpieces, making us appreciate their intricate beauty and dark artistry. Through every click of the lens, skillful lighting and composition breathe life into the garments’ haunting elegance, inviting viewers to lose themselves in their enchanting narratives.

9. You have a more interesting life if you wear impressive clothes.
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–Vivienne Westwood
7. Oxtail OT Medium 10 pt 8. Mrs. Eaves Roman Lining 12pt 9. Chapman Condensed Medium 30 pt 10. Goudy Oldstyle Bold 12pt 11. Baskerville Bold 14pt

1. High-end Gothic fashion pays close attention to detail. Garments are often adorned with ornate embroidery, intricate lacework, and opulent embellishments. Corsets, a staple of Gothic fashion, are reimagined with intricate boning and meticulous tailoring to create sculpted silhouettes. Outerwear, such as capes and coats, may feature dramatic draping and oversized collars.

2. Here lies a deep commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and a knack for weaving unique, often dark and poetic stories through clothing. This style embraces a wide range of colors, but black is its foundation, adding an air of mystery and sophistication. Yet, it doesn’t stop there; it also introduces rich, gem-like shades like burgundy, emerald, and sapphire, which give the outfits depth and an irresistible charm. When it comes to fabrics, designers carefully choose materials like velvet, lace, leather, and silk for their luxurious feel and texture, making the clothing not just something you wear but an experience that engages your senses.

In the world of high-end Gothic fashion, fabric selection is like an art form. Velvet offers a plush and tactile sensation against the skin, creating pieces that feel as luxurious as they look. Lace, with its delicate patterns, adds both sensuality and an otherworldly quality, enhancing the overall feel of the garments. Leather brings in a sense of edge and drama, adding a touch of rebellion. Lastly, silk, known for its softness and sheen, is chosen to infuse a sense of opulence and refinement into every design. These fabrics aren’t just materials; they’re the very essence of Gothic fashion, bringing out the luxurious and tactile aspects that set this style apart.

3. Alexander McQueen, the renowned designer, was known for his unique ability to blend dark and elegant elements into his fashion. His work stood out because of its bold and edgy opulence, making him a distinct figure in the fashion world. What truly set McQueen’s style apart was his use of detailed decorations. He skillfully combined delicate lace, intricate embroidery, and luxurious fabrics, giving his clothing depth and an air of mystery. McQueen’s designs celebrated the alluring charm of the mysterious, which continues to make his work appealing and timeless. His legacy serves as proof of fashion’s ability to stir emotions, challenge conventions, and embrace the captivating appeal of the artistic world he explored with such passion. Alexander McQueen, an enduring icon of dark elegance, remains a source of inspiration for designers and fashion enthusiasts, thanks to his imaginative and daring creations.

5. Studs and sparkles play a pivotal role in adding allure and drama. Studs, often in metallic forms, bring edginess to garments, creating a sense of structure and contrast. They infuse an element of toughness and rebellion, especially on leather jackets and corsets. On the other hand, gemstones and sequins introduce opulence and mystique, elevating the Gothic aesthetic. These embellishments, carefully placed, tell a visual story, capturing the essence of Gothic couture’s dark elegance with a touch of decadence.

6. Savage Beauty 2006 was a groundbreaking collection by Lee Alexander McQueen that celebrated the raw and untamed aspects of fashion. The collection explored themes of nature, decay, and transformation, creating garments that were both haunting and beautiful. “Savage Beauty” remains a testament to McQueen’s artistic genius and his ability to push the boundaries of fashion.

4. Couture Gothic style embodies darkness and elegance, allowing individuals to express their uniqueness with grace and sophistication.
III 1. Freight Pro Book 14pt 2. Bodoni 72 Oldstyle Bold 10pt 3. Calluna Regular 10pt 4. IvyPresto Regular 18pt 5. Operetta 12 Regular 10pt 6.
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In the dynamic realm of fashion, the name Alexander McQueen shines as an emblem of innovation, creativity, and bold artistry. Yet, behind the scenes of this iconic fashion house, Sarah Burton’s extraordinary journey unfolded. Appointed as Creative Director in 2010, she stepped into the formidable shoes of the late Lee Alexander McQueen, tasked with both preserving his legacy and infusing her distinct creative vision. Born in Manchester, England, Burton’s passion for fashion led her to Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, where she honed her craft. Her trajectory intersected with McQueen’s, shaping a creative partnership that would redefine contemporary fashion. Rising from

Exists Alexander McQueen after a remarkable 26 years

BURTON

Creative Director of Alexander McQueen 2010–2023
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an intern in 1996 to Head of Design for Women’s Wear, Burton’s commitment and talent propelled her ascent. Her tenure harmonized McQueen’s dark, provocative style with her own sensibilities, introducing elements like intricate embroidery and delicate lacework. Under her leadership, Alexander McQueen expanded globally, explored new horizons, and embraced sustainability. Burton’s crowning achievement was Kate Middleton’s wedding dress in 2011, a testament to her exceptional craftsmanship. Her recent departure leaves the fashion world reflecting on her legacy and eagerly anticipating her next chapter. This narrative transcends fashion, representing dedication, creativity, and the enduring power of artistry in the ever-evolving world of fashion.

The Beginnings of a Fashion Prodigy

Sarah Burton’s remarkable journey at Alexander McQueen started with her deep-rooted passion for fashion. She developed an early fascination with clothing and style. Her educational path led her to Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, where she specialized in pattern cutting and tailoring. It was during her time at this renowned institution that she first crossed paths with the iconic Lee Alexander McQueen. This fortuitous encounter would set the stage for a creative partnership that would shape her career in

Sarah Burton’s ascent within the fashion industry was characterized by dedication and a relentless pursuit of excellence. Her journey at Alexander McQueen began in 1996 when she joined the team as an intern. With her undeniable talent for craftsmanship and a profound understanding of McQueen’s design philosophy, the young designer quickly ascended through the ranks. Over the years, she evolved into the pivotal role of Head of Design for Women’s Wear, earning the trust, respect, and admiration of her

In 2010, the fashion world witnessed a significant transition as Sarah Burton assumed the role of Creative Director at Alexander McQueen. This monumental change followed the untimely passing of the legendary Lee McQueen earlier that year. It was a daunting task, as she had to navigate the delicate balance of preserving the McQueen legacy while infusing her unique creative vision into the brand.

One of the most formidable challenges

Sarah Burton faced as Creative Director was maintaining the distinct McQueen aesthetic while incorporating her own vision. Lee McQueen was renowned for his bold, dark, and often theatrical designs that pushed the boundaries of fashion. Burton, with utmost reverence for this legacy, embarked on a mission to infuse her own sensibilities while remaining true to McQueen’s edginess. Her collections began to introduce more delicate elements, featuring intricate embroidery and delicate lacework, all the while preserving the essence of McQueen’s fearless approach to fashion.

Expanding the Alexander McQueen Brand

Under Sarah Burton’s visionary leadership, Alexander McQueen witnessed remarkable global expansion. Her strategic initiatives extended the brand’s presence, particularly in Asia, where the allure of luxury fashion was on the rise. The brand also ventured into fruitful collaborations with renowned artists and designers, including Damien Hirst and Sam Taylor-Johnson. These creative partnerships added intrigue to the brand’s already rich tapestry.

New Horizons

The McQueen brand, under Sarah Burton’s direction, embarked on new horizons by venturing into previously unexplored territories. Beyond the realm of clothing, it expanded into fragrance and accessories. This diversification broadened the brand’s offerings, allowing it to cater to a more extensive and discerning clientele, all while preserving its exclusive and prestigious image.

Ethical Fashion Practices

One of Sarah Burton’s remarkable contributions to Alexander McQueen was her unwavering commitment to sustainability and ethical practices. In an era marked by mounting environmental concerns, Burton took a proactive approach. She introduced sustainable materials into her collections, championed ethical fashion practices, and raised awareness about the significance of responsible fashion production and consumption.

The Iconic Royal Wedding Dress

Among the many significant milestones in Sarah Burton’s career was the creation of Kate Middleton’s iconic wedding dress in 2011. The world watched in awe as the intricate lacework and impeccable tailoring of the dress took center stage on the global stage. This creation served as a testament to Burton’s exceptional craftsmanship and her remarkable ability to manage immense pressure while preserving utmost secrecy.

Sarah Burton’s Exit from Alexander McQueen

Despite a trailblazing journey marked by numerous achievements, the recent departure of Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen has left the fashion world in a state of reflection and anticipation. While the exact reasons behind her decision remain shrouded in some mystery, they could be attributed to personal motivations and aspirations, a rapidly evolving fashion landscape, or the complex challenges of balancing the preservation of McQueen’s legacy with the brand’s evolution. As Burton embarks on a new chapter in her career, her departure signifies not an end but a transition in the remarkable journey of one of fashion’s most influential figures. The fashion world awaits her next moves with eager anticipation.

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Dictionary of Gothic Couture

T a i o r i n g • T i e D y e • T r e n d • T u c k • U n s e x • U p C y c l e d • U t i t a r i a n • V n t a g e • W a t t e a u b a c k • W e a v e T y p e s •

t i t c hB o n d n

S t r e e t w e a r

S p o r t s w e a r

S e w B y • S h i b o r • S h i t • S o u r c i n g • S o u a c h e B r a d • S p a n g e s

R u c h n g • S e a m • S e p a r a t e s

P u n k • R a g l a n

• P l e • P l a c k e t • P e a t • P o l o n a i s e • P o u c h B a g • P r i n c e s s L n e

Gothic Style Fashion invites you to a grand performance where each garment is a character, telling a story steeped in intrigue and elegance Uniform y e t f l u i d , i t d e f i e s n o r m s a n d p l a y s w i t h t h e a m b i g u o u s , b r e a k i n g t h e b o u n d s o f c o n v e n t i o n a l i t y . A n d a t t h e h e a r t o f i t , y o u ’ l l f i n d a n i n t o x i c a t i n g d a r k n e s s — a n e x p l o r a t i o n o f t h e h u m a n e x p e r i e n c e t h a t s’ b e a u t i f u l l y n u a n c e d a n d f e a r l e s s l y g e n u i n e . Gothic Style aFshion invites you to a garnd perofrmanec wheer eahc garment is a hcaarcte,r telling a story steeped in intrigue and eleganec Uniofrm y e t f l u i d , i t d e f i e s n o r m s a n d p l a y s w i t h t h e a m b i g u o u s , b r e a k i n g t h e b o u n d s o f c o n v e n t i o n a l i t y . A n d a t t h e h e a r t o f i t , y o u ’ l l f i n d a n i n t o x i c a t i n g d a r k n e s s — a n e x p l o r a t i o n o f t h e h u m a n e x p e r i e n c e t h a t ’s b e a u t i f u l l y n u a n c e d a n d f e a r l e s s l y g e n u i n e .

• B u g l e B e a d s • B u s t e r • B u s t l e • B u t t o n h o l e s • C a m i s o e • C a p • C h e o n g s a m • C h n e • C r n o i n e • D a r t • D o r s a y S h o e • E a s e • E m b r o i d e r y • E m p r e W a s • E s p a d r l e • F a c e • F a c o r i n g • F a s h o n • F r o g • G a l o o n • G a t h e r s • G e n e r c F b e r N a m e • G m p • G o d e • G o r e • G r o u n d • G u s s e t • H a t • H a v e l o c k • H e m s • H o o p • L a c e • L e go nottuM-f

Agile Manufacturing A-line Appliqué Armseye Asymmetric Styling Balaclava Basket Bag Basque Batik Batwing Bias Cut Bishop Sleeve Blucher Body Boiled
Wool Bonnet Brand Bretelles
eveelS eniL refaoL llecoyL rebiF emarcaM derutcafunaM rebiF pukraM regnesseM gaB ereiduaniM eluM snevoW-noN nepO sredrO drofxO adogaP eveelS sreinnaP nrettaP mulpeP
• S
g •
m m e D e s G a r c o n s • C h a n e • C h a n t a l T h o m a s s • C h r i s t a n D o r • C h r s i a n L a c r o x • C h r s t a n S r i a n o • C h r s o p h e r K a n e • C h r o m e H e a r s • D o c e & G a b a n n a • D i a r a • D o n
G
P a u l G a u reitl • ymereJ ttocS • nhoJ onaillaG • yduJ emalB • nuJ ihsahakaT • lraK dlefregaL • sualK imoN • nivnaL • siuoL nottiuV • craM sbocaj • nosiaM aleigraM • onihcsoM • rM lraeP • uM g e r • N e n s D
• O
F
• T h o m B
o
n e • V
• V e
a W
n g • V
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Alexander McQueen • Alexander Wang • Ann Demeulemeester • Anna Sui
• Antonio Berardi • Area • Azzedine Alaia • Balenciaga • Balmain • Betsey Johnson • Boris Bidjan Saberi
Co
L e e • E d t h H e a d • E i e S a a b • E y m e r i c F r a n c o s • G a r e t h P u g h • G v e n c h y •
u c c • H a n n a h M a r s h a l • I s a b e l T o e d o
J e a n
o a k a
l v e r T h e y s k e n s
O s c a r d e a R e n a
P h i i p p P e i n • P r a d a • R e K a w a k u b o • R c k O w e n s • R o d a r t e
S c h i a p a r e l
T o m
o r d
r
w
a e n i n o
r
a
e r s a c e • V i v i e n n e W e s t w o o d • Y o h j Y a m a m o t o • Y v e s S a i n t L a u r a n t • Z a c P o s e n • Z a n d r a R h o d e s • Z u h a i r M u r a d •

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