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THE AUSTRALIAN, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2014 www.theaustralian.com.au

PERSONAL OZ

FAB FOUR

We ♥ Valentine’s Day

Fashion & Style

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG SCARF

MIMCO MARGOT WATCH GREY AND PINK

A-ESQUE CLUTCH

CHOPARD DIAMOND RING

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GLYNIS TRAILL-NASH -NASH THE BUZZ ZZ

Getting arty — the Australian way WITH the overriding influence of art on fashion this season, Vogue Australia editor Edwina McCann has taken the idea and run with it in the March issue, out on Monday. ‘‘We went to the international collections and the whole season was inspired by art from Prada to Chanel to Calvin Klein,’’ McCann says. ‘‘So we came back and said: how can we make that our own? We decided to work with some great Australian artists and profile some great Australian artists to push that link between art and fashion, but do it in our own way.’’ The results are intriguing. Cover girl Mia Wasikowska was shot by Aussie expat Emma Summerton, on a set built by set designer Alice Babidge, with the resulting images handed over to artist Del Kathryn Barton to work her magic on them. ‘‘They turned her into this mythical creature,’’ McCann says. Elsewhere in the magazine, graffiti artist Anthony Lister took to the streets and studio with a model, again shot by Summerton, even igniting backgrounds on occasion. The model even acted as canvas for Lister’s brushstrokes (which managed to avoid her Chanel ensemble). Artists profiled include John Olsen and Josh Yeldham, and you can also read Wendy Whiteley’s heartbreaking take on being a muse and wife to Brett. ‘‘We tried to keep the art theme really strong. It’s a very special issue, very Australian.’’

Lingerie Lover JUST in time for Valentine’s Day, Sydney label Lover has launched its first definitive lingerie collection. Designers Susien Chong and Nic Briand aren’t newcomers to the idea but this time they’ve made a serious commitment to the concept. ‘‘We’ve definitely dabbled a lot,’’ says Chong. ‘‘We’ve done a lot of bodysuits in previous collections, little silk camisole tops, lace-edged shorts, even unitards. We had pretty much done everything except a knicker — so now it’s officially lingerie.’’ Known for their modern use of lace, a lingerie collection does seems like a logical progression. ‘‘It’s all been leading up to it eventually, not consciously, but I think we’ve always enjoyed blurring those lines between outwear and intimates, and fashion has changed so much now. Ready-to-wear is becoming more revealing, with sheer fabrics, cut-outs and low armholes. We’re creating the ready-to-wear, so we thought: why don’t we create that element as well? Especially as it’s going to be on show now.’’ The new addition will be available at most of their stockists, including David Jones and their own physical and online stores. The collection includes bodysuits, triangle bras in varying widths, bikini and boyshort briefs, and bandeau bras with removable straps; colours include black, white, navy, royal blue, berry and burgundy. ‘‘It’s still pretty new to us, but I think we’ll definitely have core pieces each season. When you wear beautiful fitting lingerie it adds an element of confidence, which is really the key to feeling good — inside as well as outside,’’ says Chong.

COOL CUTS ANDREW GOLDIE

Surfer Jimmy Niggles fronts up the new campaign from Sydney’s Zink and Sons, bringing together the traditional customer with a younger clientele CHESTERFIELD couches, antler trophies, a glass of Chivas and a bespectacled tailor tending to a roll call of the establishment. It’s the den of a bespoke fitting that appears to have more in common with 1900s Britain than today. But this is the changeroom of a 21st century gentleman; subtle sartorial alterations are the giveaways, such as an iPhone pocket here, an ankle grazer there. Hollywood characters such as Don Draper and Harvey Specter of Suits are the modern-day style icons, influencing the way men dress for everyday luxury. While bespoke menswear is a significant investment, it’s an appealing guarantee that quality will trump quantity and tradition will supersede trend. It may sound old-fashioned, but Eugenie Notermans, director of the 40-year-old Melbourne-based outfitters Hemdens, is but one of many bespoke tailors witnessing this sartorial renaissance firsthand. ‘‘We’re seeing a steady increase in the number of younger customers gravitating towards a very clubby, polished aesthetic. I recently found myself teaching a few 20-somethings how to tie a bow-tie. It’s a sign of people going back to old traditions.’’ This is no more apparent than at bespoke tailors Zink and Sons, who have been in operation since 1895 and currently operate under the third-generation stewardship of Robert Jones and his 29-year-

HEALTH CONTROLLING high blood pressure and other risk factors related to pregnancy and the use of birth control can significantly reduce a woman’s chance of suffering a stroke later in life, according to guidelines recommended by the American Heart Association and the American Stroke Association. While men and women share many risk factors for the disease, the guidelines underscore how events during a woman’s reproductive years mean such factors also can differ between the

old son, Daniel. While Zink’s 60-year-old Italian tailors still cut in the popular Savile Row style, Daniel recognises the importance of moving with the times. ‘‘We still have a conservative client base of businessmen and lawyers, but these guys are going into retirement and the reality is that we need to attract new blood.’’ This means the introduction of innovative cloths, pop print pocket squares and contemporary styling such as narrower trouser legs and hem lengths that are at least 3.8cm shorter than the textbook length. But the biggest move to date is a new marketing campaign that involves a new website, online video and photo shoot featuring bearded Bondi hipster Jimmy Niggles. On average, it takes three appointments to create a bespoke suit. The first takes about 45 minutes and involves measurements and cloth choice. Turnaround time varies, but it can take about six weeks for construction, with two to three fittings to follow. Final alterations are rare, but based on necessity. According to a recent report by consulting firm Mintel, global luxury menswear sales are expected to reach a record 13 per cent increase of $18 billion in 2016 compared with $15.9bn in 2012. Research also suggests a growth in shoppers aged 25-34 ‘‘trading up’’ to pay more for a brand they like. Since 2012, the demand for dedicated menswear stores has seen the launch of Ralph Lauren

sexes. ‘‘We felt we needed to really highlight the risk factors that were unique to stroke that weren’t necessarily given enough emphasis in cardiovascular disease prevention,’’ says Professor Cheryl Bushnell, director of the Stroke Centre in North Carolina. Bushnell led a group of researchers who developed the new guidelines, published in the journal Stroke. The study recommends controlling high blood pressure from a young age; taking steps to avoid pre-eclampsia during pregnancy; monitoring bloodpressure levels in women who take oral contraceptives; and counselling to discourage smoking. In Australia, stroke is the third biggest cause of death of men, but the second leading cause of death among women. WSJ

Bespoke tailoring has a hip new attitude CARLI PHILIPS (Hong Kong), Prada (Milan), Gucci (Milan), Dolce & Gabbana (London), Berluti (Miami) and Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermes and Dior in New York since 2012. The Savile Row Bespoke Association estimates that sales of bespoke suits on the luxury strip have increased about 10 per cent over the past three years, amounting to sales of £35 million ($64m) annually. It’s an impressive figure considering that a suit from The Row costs anywhere between $6400 to $11,000 and requires an

entirely new individually cut pattern for each client with at least 50 hours of hand construction and at least 2000 fabric options. Even during a recession, about 10,000-15,000 suits were sold on the prestigious street last year. Representative of The Savile Row Bespoke Association, Charlie Harrison, says sales of bespoke increased even during the recession because consumers wanted to invest in something that would last a lifetime. ‘‘Savile Row isn’t a seasonal thing and the

TOP AUSTRALIAN TAILORS ZINK AND SONS The 6th generation tailors offer the best of both worlds – established master cutters and contemporary styling. zinkandsons.com.au

ZIMMA TAILORS This dapper new kid on the block is bringing back rainbow hounds tooth pocket squares and hand-knitted Boutonniere’s. zimmatailors.com/

56 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst NSW (02) 9331 3675

No.3, Palings Lane, 330 George St, Sydney NSW (02) 8065 2726

P.JOHNSON TAILORS Traditional yet irreverent, Patrick Johnson’s Italian-made suits are hot property. pjohnson.com.au

J.H CUTLER The 130-year-old Sydney tailor and shirt maker has been voted one of the top 10 in the world. cutlerbespoke.com

46 Liverpool Street, Paddington, Sydney NSW (02) 9966 7548 29 Thomas St, Windsor, Melbourne VIC 0488 207 240

TAILORS OF DISTINCTION This Adelaide establishment’s smart suits take a minimum 50 hours of construction. tailorsofdistinction.com.au 89 Unley Road, Parkside, Adelaide SA (08) 8373 5658

PARENTS think spanking kids will help them learn. But parents haven’t learned from decades of research suggesting spanking leads kids to aggression and delinquency, say researchers at southern Methodist University in Dallas. The team has worked out how to change parents’ minds: keep the message short and sharp, a bit like a smack. The team summarised the research in a few sentences, unlike previous ‘‘more intensive’’ attempts to change attitudes. In a study of almost 400 Texans, 55 per cent proved less disposed to spanking after being exposed to the precis. ‘‘Parents spank with good intentions,’’ lead researcher George Holden concluded.

6/12-14 O’Connell St, Sydney NSW (02) 9232 7122

BESPOKE BIJAN The discreet Savile Row-trained Bijan Sheikhlary outfits the rich and famous. bespokebijan.com.au 6 O’Connell St, Sydney NSW (02) 9232 3382

FAMILY

JOHN ROSS

quality is so high that men are realising it’s value for money.’’ While it has ‘‘traditionally been an older generation’s garment of interest’’, Harrison observes a ‘‘new generation of younger and more aware customers learning about the bespoke process online’’. Editor and publisher of men’s journal Manuscript, Mitchell Oakley Smith, agrees. ‘‘The level of accessibility afforded by the rise of the internet has provided men, particularly in Australia, where we’ve not historically had a significant sartorial inclination, with information and inspiration. ‘‘Ten years ago men couldn’t click on to Scott Schuman’s (Sartorialist) website and see all these elegant, older Italian men wearing beautiful three-piece suits looking so effortless and cool.’’ It’s a resurgence that has prompted the success of P.Johnson Tailors, helmed by its 32-yearold namesake. Johnson and his apprentices service a client base that spans ‘‘60-year-old businessmen that have had suits made on Savile Row their whole lives to young kids that want to pair a cool suit with Nikes for their school formal’’. While it may irk some tradiitionalists, he remains unperturbed. ‘‘I don’t like all that oldfashioned snobbery,’’ says the rakish poster-boy of hip Australian bespoke. ‘‘Australia doesn’t come from the same suiting history as the UK so there’s room for experimentation. Guys are getting a bit

CAR thieves are cluey about what to steal and preference highperformance models over their regular performance counterparts, according to the latest analysis from the National Motor Vehicle Theft Reduction Council. Most popular are versions of Holden Special Vehicles Maloo ute (below), with a theft rate higher than one per 100 registrations. Second on the list is the Ford Performance Vehicles F6 Typhoon. Profit is much more likely to be the motive and the worst states to park your high-performance vehicle are Western Australia or Queensland. The complete report is at ncars.on.net/ performance.html

more adventurous and realising they don’t have to wear classic, standard suits anymore.’’ While his garments are refined, they wink with a sophisticated dandyism that ultimately doesn’t stray too far from the confines of proprietary. Operating from his eponymous showrooms in Melbourne and Sydney (with another due in Chicago mid-next year), P. Johnson’s Italian-made suits are available in ‘‘endless stylistic combinations’’ — from monogramming to topstitch options, 20-plus collar types, numerous cuff arrangements, fabrics (‘‘Irish linen for summer’’) and a variety of pocketing types (‘‘curved patch pockets have a more Italianate look’’) and an infinite number of pleats, pockets and darts. Central Saint Martins-educated, Johnson’s eye guarantees expert advice on flattering physical fit; unlined, lightweight jackets that breathe easily (‘‘suitable for the Australian climate’’), ticket pockets for taller men, padding to balance out sloping shoulders, rope shoulders for a more youthful look and hand-rolled and padstitched collars for a fuller appearance. But it’s the privacy, attention and discretion bespoke offers that has the men of today lining up in orderly droves. Says Johnson, ‘‘Our customers have an idealised vision of themselves — we want to create that in cloth.’’

CARS

HONOLULUbased Hawaiian Airlines is advanceselling Extra Comfort Premium Economy Seating for its A330 North American and international routes. The new seating class, in rows 11-14 and 33-34, is due to launch on August 1 and offers about 13cm more legroom; passengers have access to a bundle of extra amenities such as priority boarding. The surcharge for the seats starts at $US60 ($69) and varies according to routes; on SydneyHonolulu services, the cost is $US100 one-way. hawaiianairlines. com

TRAVEL

SUSAN KUROSAWA

PHILIP KING

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PLENTY of Sydneysiders will be pleased to learn Justin North has found something to sink his teeth into. The expat Kiwi, who fell into such a massive hole in 2012 with the collapse of his Becasse group, will be executive chef for Halcyon Hotels’ recently acquired Centennial Hotel in Woollahra. Halcyon operates the recently renovated Woolwich Pier Hotel. ‘‘North’s menu plans stay clear of any fad dining themes,’’ we’re told. Hoo-bloodyray. The pub will be made over by designers Stuart Krelle and Rachel Luchetti (Bistro Ananas, The Rocks).

CHEFS

JOHN LETHLEAN


The Australian, Bespoke fashion & suiting