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THE GREAT OUTDOORS Seebad Enge is the lake lido of choice for Zurich’s sophisticates. Open from spring to early autumn, this Badi offers more than just a platform to show off summer-honed bodies. For a small entrance fee, visitors can enjoy yoga classes, Ving Tsun (kung fu) and swimming lessons with on-site coaches. At night the venue turns into a hip bar with DJs and live music concerts. (Mythenquay 9, +41 44 201 3889; seebadenge.ch)
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
Writer Stefan HottingerBehmer reveals the surprisingly diverse charms of Continental Europe’s banking powerhouse.
MORE ABOUT STEFAN Currently based in Dubai, Swiss-Brazilian writer and consultant Stefan HottingerBehmer lived in Zurich for almost a decade. A former publisher of Vogue Arabia magazine, he has learned to love his ancestral home on the banks of the river Limmat and regularly returns to write about its secret sweet spots.
RETAIL THERAPY A former silk trading company, enSoie is one of the city’s oldest ateliers and concept stores located in a small alleyway at the foot of the steps that lead to Lindenhof, one of the Old Town’s main squares. This Swiss family business curates sustainable bits and bobs, from silk scarves to ceramics and jewellery, all designed in-house and produced respecting traditional techniques and craftsmanship. (Strehlgasse 26, +41 44 211 5902; ensoie.com)
THE NIGHTSPOT Fact: parts of Finnegans Wake and Ulysses were written in Zurich and James Joyce found his final resting place here. Named in his honour, the James Joyce bar and restaurant features original furnishings salvaged from Dublin’s former Jury’s Hotel antique bar (on the Dame Street site where the Central Bank now sits), which was frequented by the novelist. (Pelikanstrasse 8, +41 44 221 1828; jamesjoyce.ch) THE RESTAURANT Hiltl, the first and oldest continuously operating vegetarian restaurant in the world, has been dishing up healthy fare since 1898. Its concrete floors and lofty fixtures contrast with warm multi-print fabrics. Indulge in a buffet-style feast downstairs and flavourful à la carte menu upstairs – and be sure to stop by next door at Switzerland’s first veggie “butchery”, to stock up on non-meat treats. (Sihlstrasse 28, +41 44 227 7000; hiltl.ch)
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ZURICH
THE MUST-VISIT Part of the University of Zurich, the Botanical Garden is nestled in one of the city’s swankiest neighbourhoods. Stroll up the hill from the lake in the Seefeld district and experience Zurich’s quaint residential vibes, away from the tourist tracks. Smell the scent of alpine roses and enjoy the incredible views over the lake through century-old pine trees. (Zollikerstrasse 107, +41 44 634 8461; bg.uzh.ch)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ZURICH up to ten times per week.