Cara June 2016

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June 2016 CARA Magazine June 2016 Robbie Keane


Coffee Connoisseurs Coastal Dublin San Francisco


Prague Amsterdam

Dublin’s Sea Swimming Scenesters

CZECH MATE Prague’s New Bohemians


Smitten in San Francisco

Santa Monica


Surf Spots

Keane Edge


Hipster Hunting in Amsterdam



Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking or +353 (1) 641 4219

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Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014. Allied Irish Bank, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.


June 2016


Check in 08 ARRIVALS We greet new arrivals at Dublin’s Terminal 2

Canal Life

11 CHECK IN What’s hip and hot this month 22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK With Faye O’Rourke of indie band Little Green Cars 24 WEEKENDER Eoin Higgins gets comfy in the Cotswolds 26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s pick of print and digital reads 28 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins delves in to Düsseldorf 30 PAGE TURNERS Daragh Reddin goes on the literary festival beat



32 THE MUNCH BUNCH Lucy White samples this month’s food festivals

Golden Greats

Coffee Connoisseurs

34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HARTFORD Rich Visco’s lowdown on the Connecticut capital

Features 36 KEANE INTERESTS Ken Early meets Irish and LA soccer star Robbie Keane 42 HOT SHOTS Aoife McElwain chats to Dublin’s coffee connoisseurs 50 THE TIDE IS NIGH Brendan Mac Evilly dips into Dubliners’ favourite bathing spots 60 FOOD OF LOVE Nathalie Marquez Courtney feasts on San Francisco delights 78 CZECH BAITS Jamie Blake Knox peruses Prague 88 PRETTY COOL Caroline Foran explores amazing Amsterdam

50 Dive in



70 YOU SAY, WE SAY Our pick of your favourite festivals

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Emma Sturgess on work and play in MediaCityUK

98 5 SURF SPOTS Lauren Heskin catches the waves 106 48 HOURS IN SANTA MONICA Fionn Davenport hangs out at the end of Route 66 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Inflight news and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Screenwriter Glenn Montgomery at Sundance

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Jockey turned trainer Joseph O’Brien 118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on go-to gadgets, events and hotels 120 SLEEPS & EATS Lauren Heskin finds a Roman sweet spot 122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Paul Hackett, CEO of, shares insights

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CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Fionn Davenport, Ken Early, Caroline Foran, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Daragh Reddin, Emma Sturgess, Rich Visco, Sheila Wayman

Brendan Mac Evilly is the author of At Swim, part guidebook, travelogue and analysis of our relationship with the sea, which was republished this month by the Collins Press – see his piece on Dublin sea swimmers for Cara on page 50. His writing has appeared in The Irish Times, The Sunday Times and The Stinging Fly among others. He is now a freelance arts organiser, writer and runs, a cultural jobs website. He lives and sea-lounges in Dublin.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editorial Director Jessie Collins Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill

Aoife McElwain is a food writer and coffee enthusiast – making her just the woman for our People story on page 42. She writes for The Irish Independent, The Irish Times and Totally Dublin magazine and is one half of forkful (, a website that shares seasonal recipes and videos. She is also a creative events planner, and hosts the Sing Along Social ( and slow:series (

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power

Jamie Blake Knox is an award-winning travel and history writer, who has also published articles on a range of other subjects. For his Cara debut he went back to Prague, see page78 – a city he lived in while studying as a doctoral student. His interests include art galleries, ecclesiastical kitsch, Barcelona Football Club, James Joyce and craft beer. He lives in Dublin with his partner Caoimhe and their cute but increasingly malevolent cat Koschka.

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622;, email Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd. June 2016


Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit or IMAGE Publications Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014


Dublin’s Sea Swimming Scenesters

CZECH MATE Prague’s New Bohemians


Smitten in San Francisco


Keane Edge


Hipster Hunting in Amsterdam



Robbie Keane photographed by Anthony Woods, assisted by Sean Cahill, on location at Castleknock Hotel & Country Club.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free ay aw e zin ga ma s thi take ey. rn jou rd wa on for your e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine June 2016


Aer Lingus CEO, Stephen Kavanagh, looks forward to Dublin hosting the IATA Annual General Meeting and World Air Transport Summit this month.

elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. June is a very significant month for Aer Lingus. We have just celebrated our 80th birthday and we will host the 72nd IATA AGM and World Air Transport Summit in Dublin from June 1-3. IATA (the International Air Transport Association) is the trade association for the world’s airlines, representing 260 airlines worldwide. Its mission is to represent, lead and serve the global airline industry by promoting safe, efficient and sustainable global connectivity. The AGM is the world’s largest gathering of airline leaders and so, for the first


three days of June, Dublin becomes the “capital of global aviation”. This is the second time in the history of Aer Lingus that we have been the host airline for this prestigious meeting. We first hosted the IATA AGM back in 1962, when aviation was a much more niche pursuit than it is today. That year we carried less than 800,000 guests whereas this year we will carry 12 million. The 1962 event was accommodated in Dublin’s Gresham Hotel. This year, more than 1,000 delegates will travel to Dublin’s RDS for the AGM. Aviation has come a long way in the intervening 54 years. The sector in Ireland is in rude health and contributes more than €4 billion to the economy and supports 26,000 jobs. It is crucial to the continued growth of our tourism industry, providing air access for more than eight million overseas visitors. Aer Lingus is proud to host this global airline meeting in our capital city, and to showcase our growing Dublin gateway. I’d like to extend a warm welcome to you and thank you again for travelling Aer Lingus.

TOUCHDOWN The Aer Lingus College Football Classic (September 3) brings the excitement of American Football home, find out more at

HAVE A NICE DAY Aer Lingus have announced further expansion in transatlantic capacity with the reintroduction of an early morning Dublin to New York service operating from June 9 to August 31, 2016.

Stephen Kavanagh Chief Executive Officer, Aer Lingus Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

LA CONFIDENTIAL Guests can now fly directly from Dublin to LAX airport, with five flights per week. These were launched as part of Aer Lingus's transatlantic expansion, which includes new routes to Newark, New Jersey and Hartford, Connecticut from September 2016. 6 |


W H E R E M O M E N TS A R E T R E A SU R E D Discover more than 80 boutiques of luxury brands with savings of up to 60%*, including Só Collective – a new home for Irish fashion, design and craft at Kildare Village. While you shop, enjoy a series of From the Isle food pop-ups from



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Ireland’s most talented creatives.

WHO? Gwen Tilley and Carol Schober FLYING IN FROM ... Munich CAROL SAYS … “We just spent eight days in Munich and Salzburg and it was glorious. The weather was so warm, we had a great time.”

WHO? Oscar Fredriks and Christoffer Baumgarten FLYING IN FROM ... Manchester OSCAR SAYS … “We’re supposed to be here for work but we mainly just want to try the Guinness ...”

WHO? Melanie Röh FLYING IN FROM ... Hamburg MELANIE SAYS … “I’m heading to Galway for a language course and then hopefully I’ll have a few days to see the rest of the country.”


From sightseers to linguists – Cara was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to greet just-landed old hands and newbies.

WHO? Andrea Kresky and Simone Kern FLYING IN FROM ... Munich ANDREA SAYS … “We’re on our holidays in Ireland – make sure to say we’re sisters!”


WHO? Carolyn Smith and Madisson Duess FLYING IN FROM ... Ottowa via London MADISSON SAYS … “We’re kicking off our four-and-a-half-week trip around Europe in Dublin.”

WHO? Lorenzo Perazzo and Eva Jäger FLYING IN FROM ... Munich EVA SAYS … “We’re both studying in Ireland, but we were home in Munich for a week. It was lovely to be home but I actually missed the cold!”

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WHO? Neasa, Joan, Dimitri and Jasper Coen FLYING IN FROM ... London NEASA SAYS … “We’re heading off to Kelly’s Hotel on Rosslare Strand to chill out beside the sea for a week.”

WHO? Julia Lichtner FLYING IN FROM ... Berlin JULIA SAYS … “I have one week to try and see as much of Ireland as I possibly can.”

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Find out what’s on, where and when in June 2016


AIR MAX Madrid’s infamous bullfighting ring, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, plays host to this year’s Red Bull X-Fighters event, where fans and participants converge to experience the best of competitive FMX (freestyle motocross) on June 24. Expect some truly epic head-to-head fights as the world’s FMX elite battle it out to win this year’s title. In 2013, Tom Pagès was crowned the Red Bull X-Fighters World Tour champion with a heartstopping performance in Madrid. A year later, the French innovator was able to pull off his first signature ‘Bikeflip’ scoring his second consecutive victory in the world’s most exciting FMX event. In 2015 Pagès proved the impossible is possible with an historic Madrid hat-trick, wowing crowds with his premier freestyle motocross antics. Will someone be able to stop the Frenchman in his tracks in 2016? Tickets from €35 at

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Compiled by Lauren Heskin, Eoin Higgins, Ingmar Kiang, Sheila Wayman and Lucy White.


Beach Life Photographer Massimo Vitali has his vital, voyeuristic prints lashed up around London’s Ronchini Gallery until June 18 in his first solo show in the capital for five years. The exhibition features a series of surreal Italian beach panoramas taken in the light of drastic political change in Italy. Regarded as one of the most influential contemporary photographers working today, Vitali is well known for his unique, large-scale, coloured photographs of beachfront leisure scenes.


4 ROMANTIC RETREATS Fall in love again in one of these love nests …

Tinakilly Country House Hotel, Wicklow

This Victorian Italianate mansion sits on nearly six hectares of beautifully manicured gardens on the edge of the Irish Sea. With food and wine menus that are almost as delightful as the house’s old-world charm, this place emanates whimsical romance from the floorboards to the rafters. Rooms from €120. 12 |


The PIG near Bath, Somerset Tucked away in

a quiet corner of the Mendip Hills, The PIG’s shabby chic aesthetic of raw timbers, varied textures and simple design envelopes a space that is also filled with creature comforts. Enjoy a quiet meal in their greenhouse restaurant or wander down to the potting sheds for a luxurious massage. Rooms from £155.

Castle Hill Inn, Rhode Island One of the

architectural gems of Newport, the Castle Hill Inn lies on the western-most point of the peninsula. Built in 1875, the inn is considered one of the country’s most picturesque escapes, renowned for the peace of its craggy shores, Adirondack chairs looking out on panoramic sea views and foodie delights. Rooms from $485.

La Bastide de Marie, Ménerbes Amongst

sloping rows of vineyard in the heart of Provence lies La Bastide de Marie. The stone farmhouse perfectly captures French country elegance with muted tones, rugged antique furnishings, local flavours and, of course, beautiful French wine. Lounge by one of two pools or cosy up by the grand fireplace. Rooms from €380.

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DOUBLE BUBBLE Apparently, we should all forget whatever bad news is floating around these days and celebrate, in time-honoured tradition, with something blonde, long-stemmed and bubbly. Not in a Rod Stewart kind of way, of course, but by downing a glass of life-affirming bubbles. This month sees the maiden voyage of London mixer-uppers Bubbledogs ( as their van takes to the highways to serve signature hotdogs and champagne to outposts near and far. Wonder if they are thinking of visiting Dublin anytime soon ... Simultaneously, new champagne and café bar, The Fizzy Tarté ( has opened its effervescent doors in Bowness-on-Windermere in the Lake District, specialising in champagne, cocktails, upmarket coffee and a French style patisserie; and following a frenetic first month, is expecting a bumper summer. Cin cin!


Bigger and better


Bloomsday By their Edwardian attire ye will know them – the Joycean enthusiasts wandering the streets of Dublin on Bloomsday, June 16. In the writer’s native city, a whole festival (June 11-16) revolves around re-enacting the fictional Leopold Bloom’s day-long odyssey through the capital in 1904, as recounted in James Joyce’s challenging novel, Ulysses. You don’t have to have read it to join the party but, spoiler alert, fried kidneys and liver are on the menu for breakfast.


SAY CHEESE Organised by food writer and pizza expert Daniel Young, The London Pizza Festival returns to Borough Market on June 5. This celebration of all things cheesy and doughy will feature appearances from the UK’s best pizza chefs – pizzaioli, if you will – all of whom are featured in Young’s new book, Where To Eat Pizza: The Experts’ Guide to the Best Pizza Places in the World.

Already the world’s most-visited museum of contemporary art, the Tate Modern in London re-launches on June 17 after a £260 million revamp. Though its existing premises were hardly pokey, the 10-storey extension increases display space by 60 per cent, creating the UK’s most important new cultural building since the construction of the British Library in 1998. Architects Herzog & de Meuron’s intriguing design makes this a must-see for fans of art and architecture alike.

formed dishes of small-but-perfectlyTOP TAPAS The gods shall be known third Thursday of June have decreed that the on June 16. this year, the day falls as World Tapas Day – humble bar rldwide will salute the Restaurants and bars wo ty delicacies. become Michelin-quali to up w gre t tha ks ac sn 14 |



SHREWD AWAKENING Dublin actress Kathy Rose O’Brien is used to living out of a suitcase, dividing her time between Ireland, the US and the UK. She’s about to throw roots down in London this summer, however, as she takes on a threemonth stint at The Globe Theatre playing Katherina – or here, Kate – in Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew (until August 6; O’Brien is a TCD theatre graduate and has performed at the Gate (Little Women, Hay Fever), the Abbey (The Plough and the Stars, Alice in Funderland) and twice worked with novelist Joseph O’Connor on his play Handel’s Crossing (Fishamble) and in an adaptation of Ghost Light.

How well do you know London? I trained at RADA and lived and worked in London when I graduated so I know the city well, but in the past few years I’ve been mainly working in Dublin, so I’m looking forward to rediscovering the city. I’ll be living in buzzing Brixton where I have close friends. The restaurants and the atmosphere are amazing and nearby Brockwell Park will be a verdant spot for line-learning. The life of an actor is peripatetic and unpredictable. Is this a blessing or a curse? I’m learning to use my “resting” time to create my own work or develop new skills. Acting can be all consuming but


What can you tell us about your new role? It has a revolutionary angle and is the first all-Irish production at The Globe. Kate has a controversial final speech about “a woman’s place”. I’m excited to work on it in the current climate, particularly with director Caroline Byrne and in light of the Waking the Feminists movement within Irish theatre.

when you’re out on stage, live, with a company of actors, there’s simply nothing like it.

see yourself represented then self-doubt and insecurity can’t fail to grow.

near to where I live and is a great place to clear your head and dream big.

Is the Irish theatre/TV/ film industry competitive or supportive for young actors? Late last year I think a lot of actors, particularly women, felt both relieved and supported by the Waking the Feminists campaign. Something wasn’t right with the amount of roles on offer. Often we are all competing for one or two roles, especially on screen. The arts are a mirror, and if you don’t

If you could tread the boards anywhere in the world, where would it be? I’d love to perform in a different language. I speak Spanish and listen to a lot of Flamenco music – all that pain and passion. So what about Medea in Spanish and in Madrid? That sounds wonderfully terrifying!

How will you spend your downtime? I’m going to go to some music festivals – Citadel in Victoria Park has a brilliant line-up. I love Maribou State and Susanne Sundfør. I’ll go dancing on a night off if Kiasmos are performing in Brixton. And I’ve always wanted to see an outdoor movie at Somerset House. But maybe since we perform semioutdoors in The Globe I’ll be sick of outdoor entertainment ...

What do you miss most about home? Sandymount beach. It’s


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Blow in Danny Lyon’s Message to the Future opens on June 17, at New York’s Whitney Museum of Modern Art, with a retrospective highlighting the photographer’s thought-provoking photographs, right, films and ephemera. Meanwhile, the contrast between a “sculpture garden”, as a cultivated setting for artworks, and “garden sculpture” as an ornamental object, is explored in Virginia Overton’s new project, opening June 10. Expect to see windmills, ponds planted with aquatic flowers and greenery on the museum’s terrace, while sculptures by the Nashville-born artist transform an adjacent gallery.


MUTT MINDERS An innovative solution for dogowning travellers, HouseMyDog offers a choice of minders in Ireland and Britain to care for your pooch while you’re away. The service promises individual attention for your pet, at rates lower than traditional kennels. All minders are vetted, with experience and ratings viewable online.





SEA TO SUMMIT A bunch of ultra-fit runners traverse Tenerife the hard way in one of Europe’s toughest mountain races, over 97 kilometres, on June 11. For those a little less sound of lung and limb, there are shorter options of 66km, marathon and 20km, with a mere eightkilometre challenge the day before. Let’s hope the views from the volcanic slopes of Mount Teide prove a distraction from the pain.

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Long before X-Factor, Ireland had its own competition for emerging talent: held annually since 1896, Feis Ceoil attracts classical musicians and singers from all over Ireland. Its 120th anniversary is celebrated at the Little Museum of Dublin, with recitals and an exhibition running until June 19. Chief among the artefacts on display is the bronze medal, above, awarded to James Joyce in the tenor competition of 1904.

A johnny-come-lately to the calendar compared to the more traditional Mother’s Day, at least Father’s Day on June 19 is the same date both sides of the Atlantic. If steak sandwiches washed down with Wicklow Wolf beer are to his taste, there’s the Gentlemen’s Tea at Dublin’s Morrison Hotel, served noon-6pm ( His US-based brothers can enjoy a special Beer Brunch Cruise ( Spot the common theme ... That said, a lie-in the morning may be all Irish men want this Father’s Day – the Republic of Ireland play Belgium in Euro 2016 the evening before. But perhaps the more energetic will trot off to the Kildare Thoroughbred Father’s Day Run, at the scenic Irish National Stud (

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Tartine Bakery, San Francisco San Francisco – a city I know well, having spent an exciting summer there during college – is renowned for its artisan bakeries. I remember my first taste of proper sourdough bread very vividly. My dream breakfast would be at Tartine surrounded by the delicious aromas of fresh baking. Their croissants are out of this world and I’m a sucker for cheese at breakfast time (or any time, for that matter) so I would order the croque monsieur. Just that. And some strong coffee.



Having sharpened his knife in London’s Arbutus and Harwood Arms restaurants, Dubliner Barry FitzGerald recently made a stab at the bistro-deluxe genre – with a modern Irish twist – in his home town: Bastible ( is the hottest meal ticket in Dublin, right now. Here, the chef takes us on his ultimate grazing day trip. 18 |



L’Enclume, Cartmel Often, really indulgent meals are even better when you have to travel to them. Approaching Cartmel is an experience in itself, with the fantastic Lake District countryside to take in. Chef Simon Rogan’s team’s approach to sourcing ingredients is exemplary. They rear their own livestock and grow all the restaurant’s vegetables on their farm. I’m not normally one for a long tasting menu but this one remains one of my most memorable meals to date. The venison tartare with charcoal oil has been widely copied, but never bettered. His famous grilled salad with truffle custard is a showstopper too.


Les Déserteurs, Paris Recommended to me by a chef living in Paris last year, I took my fiancée there and we had a super lunch. It’s genuinely a product-driven menu by the excellent chef Daniel Baratier – simple and delicious food. Then there are the incredible wines served by passionate sommelier Alexandre Céret. The lunch menu changes regularly and the big flavours that are produced by the tiny, open kitchen are really impressive. Desserts are excellent too but if they have the 24-month-aged Comte cheese, which is then sealed in a bag of wheat for another month, order it. It’s the perfect ending to a really great lunch. +33 1 480 695 85


The Dolphin pub, London I spent six great years working in London but a chef’s anti-social work hours force us to think outside the box for a post-shift tipple. When everywhere else in East London is closing you can pretty much guarantee The Dolphin is still serving. It’s lively on weekends, without being too selfconsciously hip. The ales aren’t bad either and they even pour a good Guinness.

2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction

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LONDON “I had one of the best meals of my life at Simon Rogan’s The French restaurant at Manchester’s The Midland hotel years ago and, unsurprisingly, the lunch I had in his Fera eatery at London’s Claridge’s exceeded expectations. Flavours were multifaceted, smoky and surprising, each dish presented like a work of art by charming staff.” Lucy White, Dublin

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

RHODE ISLAND “The population of Narragansett more than doubles each summer with Bostonians flocking to its serene waters, beaches and charming, laidback restaurants. We stayed in a cove house on Harbour Island, which had its own private pier – what a view.” Nancy Rock, Mullingar

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

PARIS “Deciding that I wanted to shoot the Eiffel Tower at sunrise, I grabbed an early morning Metro to Trocadéro. I found a quiet perch just above the fountains right as the sun started to peek up from below the horizon.” Gavin Hartigan, Galway

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Paris daily.

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CASCAIS “I have visited Cascais, outside Lisbon a few times over the past few years, and I keep going back. The annual classic and vintage car show always brings another layer of glamour to the town.” Eoin Higgins, Dublin

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon daily.

LONDON “I spotted this quintessential London pub on a trip there last year. I didn’t go in but a friend worked in the Sherlock Holmes Museum, which sounded like immense fun.” Jenna Meade, Carlow

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

ST IVES “This shot was taken while on location for a shoot for Irish equestrian brand, Horseware, on misty Carbis Bay beach with four beautiful Connemara ponies.” Alex Calder, Wicklow


Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay six times per week.


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MY FAVOURITE MUSIC FESTIVAL OUTSIDE IRELAND … Definitely Slottsfjell, it’s on the tip of a Norwegian fjord, in July, so the weather is perfect. Instead of camping, most people sail there and dock their boats in the harbour. When you wake up in the morning there are hundreds of people out on the decks having barbecues and drinking beer.

“Holiday heaven would have to be st aying somewhere like Telluride in Colorado. We played a show there recen tly and it was just the most p ic turesque place. I’ve never skied bu t I’d like to try my hand a t it.”


MY FAVOURITE CITY FOR A WEEKEND BREAK ... Berlin. We had a show there and a great night out afterwards. I’ve always wanted to go back. In terms of musical history, some of my heroes recorded there, like Bowie, such an amazing city ...

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK FAYE O’ROURKE sings with Irish band Little Green Cars, who recently released their second album Ephemera to critical acclaim. They have just finished a 35-date US tour and are returning to Ireland to play a headline show in Dublin’s Iveagh Gardens on July 23. Faye opens up her passport to Lucy White.

MOST SURPRISING CITY ... Moscow. I’m not sure what I was expecting but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had. I loved the contrast between the buildings of the Soviet era and the beautiful Imperial-style buildings. The people were so warm as well. I met some amazing characters there.

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MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO GIG ... Besides home I’d have to say Chicago. We also had an amazing time playing at Lollapalooza there. I loved being in the middle of the city during a festival. It’s a big city but it feels comfortable to walk around in.

MY FAVOURITE OVERSEAS HOTEL ... The Beverly Laurel in LA. We’ve stayed there quite a bit and I always look forward to it. It’s in a great spot and it is really affordable. It’s an old-school LA hotel with rooms all around the pool. It’s also got a great diner attached to it.


REMEMBER As the only European capital with US pre-clearance, Dublin Airport makes your journey easier.

Easy Aer Lingus Flight Connections at Dublin Airport Moving through Dublin Airport has never been easier – staff at the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk are here to assist, be it with baggage, boarding passes, or ESTA queries and requirements, leaving you with more time to relax, shop, eat and drink before your onward journey. Follow the clear signage throughout the airport that will help you get to your connecting gate with ease. You can also go online with a clear conscience; Wi-Fi at the airport is free, meaning zero data roaming charges. Furthermore, there’s no need to get lost in translation – connecting companion DUB HUB is now available in five languages.

DUB HUB is a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight.

6 EASY STEPS FOR CONNECTING AT DUBLIN AIRPORT 1. Listen to on-board announcements – as you taxi towards your gate on arrival, listen out for any information that the flight crew may have. They sometimes detail flight or gate changes.

3. Use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB on your mobile device. No data roaming charges, downloads or login required. DUB HUB is in English, Français, Italiano, Español, Deutsch and Gaeilge.

2. Do you have your boarding card? If not, proceed to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections desk where staff are on hand to help you with any queries.

4. On the DUB HUB home page, enter your Aer Lingus flight number to get your gate number and the time you have before your flight starts to board.

USE THE DUB HUB COMPANION MAP Smartphone or tablet users can access the free DUB HUB easy connecting companion as soon as you arrive in Dublin Airport. It’s powered by Google, and will show you the quickest, easiest route to your connecting flight. Remember to use free Dublin Airport Wi-Fi to access DUB HUB without using your mobile data or incurring roaming charges.

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5. Pass through security, remember to check your gate number on the Flight Information Display Screens in case of change. 6. For all Terminal 2 departure gates, be it for Europe or US pre-clearance, take the escalator upstairs. For Terminal 1, please follow the signs.

DUB HUB makes everything easier, when you’re connecting through Dublin Airport. Simply go to: dubhub or scan this code.

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The Inn Crowd

Green rolling hills and friendly locals are the perfect backdrop to two Cotswolds boltholes, finds Eoin Higgins. ith the theme tune to Antiques Roadshow playing on an internal, and seemingly eternal, loop since “The Cotswolds” was mentioned, neither myself nor my travelling companion could wait to get to our destination and discover what this part of England was really about. And finally get that tenacious ditty out from between our ears. Expecting copious cream teas, mucky Land Rovers, fusty olde things and no small amount of tweeness – as well as tweed – there was also a slight sheen of Hobbiton surrounding our expectations. The thought that we might find a family of Sackville-Baggins’s running a chandlery somewhere along the way was never far from mind. We were, after all, heading to a region so impossibly bestowed with charm to seem almost fictional. First stop, a 1,000-year-old inn in the Middle Earthy-sounding village of Stow-on-the-wold. Less than an hour’s drive from Birmingham Airport, The Porch House (double rooms from £99;, as the inn is currently known, is hewn from the gorgeous, goldenhued Cotswold stone for which the area is famous – mined from a


Jurassic limestone bedrock that is also the foundation for a rare type of grassland that is home to oodles of interesting flora and fauna. The Porch House is not only famous for its advancing years though. It was crowned English Pub of the Year in 2015 by the AA, and New Pub of the Year 2016 by The Good Pub Guide. It’s easy to see why: beautiful, individual rooms with ancient exposed beams and freestanding baths; a restaurant that serves up top-notch gastro pub grub, and a thirst-quenching selection of crafty brews and smartly chosen wines conspire to make this a very restful, sybaritic bolthole. After a night at The Porch, and a superb supper – the Cotswold Lamb Rump was a knockout – we head further south to a more

Clockwise from left: the summery beer garden at The Plough; “golden-hued”, The Porch House’s 1,000-year-old exterior; the beautifully wellworn interiors at The Porch House.

out of the way inn. The Plough Inn (double rooms from £120; is nestled in sleepy Kelmscott, a tiny country village down a single lane by-way off the main Lechlade Road. It would be gross understatement to describe this pub with rooms as simply cosy – an open fire with a snoozing, fireside sighthound (no hobbits, sadly), more uber-comfort food than you could shake a tastefully distressed fork at (try the mushrooms on toast, or the moreish devilled kidneys), and a selection of compact, yet warmly inviting, rooms make The Plough a veritable buttered crumpet of an inn. Great staff, and locals, too and not an annoyingly jovial theme tune within earshot ... bliss! Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Birmingham daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

WHAT TO PACK Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Cologne Indelebile, from €120 at Parfumarija, Dublin 2

Inis Meáin Mussel linen-knit sweater, €185 at Inis Meáin Knitting Company, Aran Islands, Co Galway

Sun Buddies Type 02 Edie sunglasses, €143 at

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Regatta Great Outdoors Landman Parka, €110 at stores nationwide

Sandqvist Bob Waxed Canvas Backpack, €200 at Indigo & Cloth, Dublin 2

Patience by Daniel Clowes, €23.80 at Chapters Bookstore, Dublin 1




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Bridget Hourican catches some waves, as well as the latest reads, downloads and podcasts. SURFING 1778-2015



FICTION VINEGAR GIRL by Anne Tyler (Hogarth Press, hardcover/ebook, June 16) The sage of Baltimore announced her retirement after her last novel, but she’s been tempted back by the Hogarth Shakespeare project to retell The Taming of the Shrew. Tyler updates the story of acerbic Kate forced into marriage and capitulation. Check also Margaret Atwood’s retelling of The Tempest and Howard Jacobson on The Merchant of Venice later this year.

PHOTOGRAPHY LOST IRELAND 18601960 by William Derham (Hyde Park Editions, hardcover) Drawing on a variety of archives, William Derham, curator and guide at Dublin Castle, reminds us of the built heritage that we’ve lost: bridges, Dutch Billys, dry-stone huts, market houses. Particularly evocative are the Turkish Baths in Lincoln Place, which feature in Ulysses, and the magnificent Powerscourt House burnt to the ground in 1974.

TRAVEL VOYAGER: TRAVEL WRITINGS by Russell Banks (Ecco Press, hardcover/audio) Now in his seventies, the award-winning novelist and poet looks back on a lifetime of travel in these ten essays: from interviewing Castro in Cuba to eloping to Edinburgh with his fourth wife; from mountaineering in the Himalayas to sailing the “bright green islands and turquoise seas” of the Caribbean. As much about the journey within as the landscapes.

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The first Europeans knew of surfing was when Captain Cook dropped anchor in Hawaii in 1777, the ship surgeon leaving this beautiful description of watching wave-riding: “I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea”. This “supreme pleasure” is now a global phenomenon, from Bundoran to Dakar, with 20 million practitioners. It “arrived” in Ireland in the 1970s, when two Californian hippies undertook a global safari to discover untouched surfing places. This lavish book is wonderfully illustrated as you’d expect – 900 photos, drawings and paintings – with some excellent essays by surfing journalists.

WORDS ON A WING If you missed the Moth StorySLAM in Dublin’s Sugar Club in April, here’s another chance to participate – or listen – in Boston, New York, Chicago, LA and other US cities. The format devised by this long-running NYC-based group is simple: prepare a five-minute true story to tell (not read) to an audience. June’s themes are Fathers, Grudges, or Borders, depending on the venue. $10 admission.


iPAD ELECTRICOMICS Comic books maximise the possibilities of digital: reading on your tablet isn’t like reading on the page. Winner of last year’s Digital Comic App of the Year, Electricomics, set up by Alan Moore, offers four stories by established writers (including Moore’s own Big Nemo) and hosts links to numerous others – check out ongoing series Red Ghost and S James Abbott’s adaptation of Yeats’ poem When you are Old. Coming soon: a creator tool for users to create and self-publish digitally. Free to download.


Discover over 300 years of character inside

Located less than a five minute walk from Kilkenny Castle and in the heart of Ireland’s medieval mile, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Drop in and find out why The Lonely Planet listed us as one of the top 26 hottest new attractions in the world to visit in 2015. Discover stories of our rich heritage on a unique guided tour and meet some interesting characters along the way. Best of all, it’s all topped off with a perfectly poured pint of the red stuff.

book online at

and receive a10% discount off adult admission tickets The SMITHWICK’S and SMITHWICK’S EXPERIENCE KILKENNY words and associated logos are trademarks © Diageo Ireland 2016



Good Reasons

WONDER BARS Home of bleeping techno pioneers Kraftwerk, Düsseldorf, not surprisingly, is a city that pulses with an electric club scene. Home too to an area known as “the world’s longest bar” (imagine lining shots up on that), the Altstadt (old town) is where you’ll also find the strangely bacon flavoured Altbier, the city’s native brew.

... to delve in to Düsseldorf. Eoin Higgins wets his whistle by the Rhine.

KOOL KUNST Splattered with more than 100 galleries – a lot for a population of less than 700,000 – the metropolis holsters a gun-slinging arsenal of artistic ammo, including the modern and contemporary Kunsthalle Düsseldorf. The sharpest shooter, however, is the Kunstsammlung NordrheinWestfalen collection of 20thand 21st-century art, exhibited in three venues across the city: K20 Grabbeplatz, K21 Ständehaus and the boxy Schmela Haus.

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WALK THIS WAY As the name suggests, the Rheinuferpromenade provides a wiggly walkway along the regal Rhine, with plenty of sit-down spots to take a load off. Always a relaxing promenade, but particularly when the sun shines and Düsseldorfers take time out to chill. You might also discover how friendly the locals are in the chatty queues for the many Herr Whippy vans and (sometimes pricey) cafés along the way.


STARCHITECTURE Confident, formidable, photogenic ... but enough about me ... the city’s gorgeous buildings, especially around the Düsseldorf-Hafen district where the curvy paper vibes of Frank Gehry’s Neuer Zollhof complex nestle, are a picture-perfect backdrop – whether you’re an inspiring Instagrammer or studious Snapchatter.

ALL MOD CONS Düsseldorf, like most places these days, is proud of its very own gentrified “quarter”, containing all the trappings any self-respecting, millennial might want – nay, demand – from a city break. Flingern-Nord has more cutting-edge art galleries, hip haberdashers, tiny record stores, boho brunches, vegan butchers and vintage mobile phone shops than you could shake a self-consciously ironic selfie-stick at.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to DÜSSELDORF daily, and from Cork, twice weekly.

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Page Turners

With literary festivals taking place throughout the country this June, Ireland is a veritable bookworm’s paradise, finds Daragh Reddin. iction, philosophy and football” are some of the alliterative subjects up for discussion at the 45th annual Listowel Writers’ Week (June 1-5;, one of the most convivial events in Kerry’s cultural calendar. Bestselling British writers Joanne Harris and Louis de Bernières will grace the stage alongside Dutch author and 2010 IMPAC winner Gerbrand Bakker, while the redoubtable AC Grayling will also hold court. And soccer nuts will be limbering up to meet broadcaster Richard Skinner who’ll discuss The Busby Babes, his biography of the ill-fated Manchester United squad. Elsewhere, the Borris House Festival of Writing and Ideas (June 10-12;, a major strand of the Carlow Arts Festival, features some of the most distinguished names from the literature world, UK performance poet Kate Tempest and Martin Amis – the perennial badboy of British letters – chief among them. Homegrown talent includes established names such as John Banville and Joseph O’Neill joining


newcomers Sara Baume and Danielle McLaughlin. Meanwhile, fans of American literature will be thrilled by the inclusion of Michael Chabon, Pulitzer Prize-winner for The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay. There’s plenty to attract non-fiction fans, with talks and readings from Christina Lamb, who co-wrote Malala Yousafzai’s memoir, I Am Malala, and venerated actor and Orson Welles biographer Simon Callow. During the same weekend, the grand Lutyens Library in Howth Castle, Co Dublin, is the venue for the Howth Midsummer Literary Arts Festival (howthliteraryfestival. com). Local authors there this year include Rooney Prize-winning novelist Claire Kilroy and Irish Times columnist Hilary Fannin. Meanwhile, the enduring legacy of the great polemicist, Jonathan Swift, will be teased out in a special event featuring contributions from historian Brendan Twomey and economist David McWilliams. “The best little festival in the world,” is how Salman Rushdie described the Zurich Dalkey Book Festival, in the agreeable

Clockwise from top, Salman Rushdie and David McWilliams at the Zurich Dalkey Book Festival, a performance at Listowel Writers’ Week, perusing at the Hay Festival Kells.

coastal Dublin suburb (June 16-19; Melding the highbrow and the humorous, this year’s four-day event will be dominated by two intellectual heavyweights: beleaguered Greek finance minister turned celebrity economist Yanis Varoufakis, and Malcolm Gladwell, author of The Tipping Point. Finally, an offshoot of Wales’ celebrated Hay Festival of Literature and Arts, the bijou Hay Festival Kells, in the heritage Co Meath town, enters its fourth year (June 23-26; A trio of contemporary Irish novelists lead the pack: Patrick McCabe, Kevin Barry and Lisa McInerney.

STATESIDE CEREBRALS One of the American Midwest’s largest and most venerated cultural events, Chicago’s Printers Row Lit Fest, is an annual celebration of the arts that’s equal parts book fair and literary powwow. The predominantly outdoor festival was founded in 1985 with the aim of increasing footfall in the Printers Row neighbourhood (once the city’s nerve centre for publishing); with The Chicago Tribune helming the event in recent years it’s little wonder that the calibre of participants is invariably high. Bigwigs on this year’s bill, June 11-12, include two-time Pulitzer Prize-winner Marilynne Robinson, children’s book behemoth RL Stine and Hollywood renaissance man Ethan Hawke.

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Where Champions Meet‌ Recently renovated & refurbished, The K Club features 140 bedrooms and brand new conferencing & events facilities. For more information call +353 (1) 601 7200 or email

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The Munch Bunch


Elasticated waistbands ahoy! Lucy White chomps through this month’s best Irish food festivals.

MAYO Westport Food Festival June 24-26 Six years young, Westport’s culinary lovein is chock-a-block with pleasing quirks, including a bike tour for gallivanting grazing, seaweed and mushroom foraging, and a craft beer relay race ... Take care not to over-eat at the opening night banquet (Westport Hotel, €45 per head), where a four-course feast using the best of Mayo ingredients will be served; a weekend food village at the Octagon awaits. 32 |


MEATH Solstice Supper June 21 Raise a tankard of mead – or more likely a Pagan’s Pillar Sparkling Copper Ale or cask whiskey – at Boyne Brewhouse’s Midsummer’s Night Brew event in Drogheda. The brewery has teamed up with Eastern Seaboard restaurant for a candlelit soirée inspired by the season’s ancient traditions. Cue locally sourced, artisan produce, craft beers and classic cocktails as the sun sets on the longest day of the year. Tickets at

SLIGO Só Sligo Food Festival June 16-19 This shindig is bang on the zeitgeist with its fermentation workshop – kimchi being this year’s bone broth. Other DIY delectables include wild food tutorials, food and drink tastings, cooking competitions, the World Irish Stew Championships, children’s activities, a barbecue closing party and other appetite-sating shenanigans across Sligo town and county. A session on “mindful eating” sets the tone on the opening morning.

DUBLIN Taste of Dublin June 16-19 Those greedy of gut will be spoilt for choice at the 11th Taste of Dublin festival in the Iveagh Gardens. Learn tips and tricks from the likes of Danni Barry (Ireland’s only Michelinstarred female chef), Chapter One’s Ross Lewis, Lynda Booth of Blackrock cookery school, and Niall Sabongi, sustainable seafood champion and Klaw head honcho. Expect also food stalls, interactive demos, craft beers and wine bars.

NORTHERN IRELAND Open Farm Weekend June 18-19 Get your wellies out for this two-day event celebrating local food producers. More than 21,000 visitors turned out last year, meeting farmers on their home turf to learn, taste and buy their daisy-fresh wares as part of a drive to reconnect the public with food at source. That 2016 is designated Northern Ireland’s Year of Food means that this month’s turnout is expected to be exceptionally high.

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Connecticut features more than 300 museums, ranging from art to history. One standout is THE MARK TWAIN HOUSE in downtown Hartford, where Twain lived when he wrote his most important works. Free parking and closed Mondays. (351 Farmington Avenue, +1 860 247 0998;


HARTFORD Derry-born Rich Visco shows us the sights of the Connecticut capital. The Greater Hartford Area boasts more than 40 locally-operated breweries and brewpubs. There’s even an app to help you find and track your journey on the CT BEER TRAIL . From creative beers, such as Shebeen’s Cannoli Beer, to various American IPAs, the area showcases some amazing breweries. (


The state is home to more than 40 public and private colleges and universities. Founded in 1881, the UNIVERSITY OF CONNECTICUT is one of the most beautiful campuses in the state and certainly worth a visit. Selling fresh ice cream made from campus cows’ milk, the UConn Dairy Bar is recommended too, especially in the summer. (

Rich Visco was born in Derry but left Northern Ireland as an infant. In honour of his Irish past, Rich runs a brewery and tasting room called Shebeen Brewing Co in Connecticut, USA. You can sample more than nine different beers there, including an Irish Pale Ale, and tour the working brewery. (1 Wolcott Road, Wolcott, +1 203 514 2336;

Think you know desserts and cupcakes? Wait till you try HARDCORE SWEET in Oakville. They have several hundred different kinds of cupcakes, from hot chocolate to red velvet to beer infused. It’s a must for the adventurous dessert lover. (Oakville and Manchester, +1 860 417 6660;

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS recently announced a new service between Dublin and HARTFORD starting September 28, 2016.


A quintessential summer’s day in Connecticut is spent watching boats at ABBOTT’S LOBSTER IN THE ROUGH while you enjoy local and fresh seafood. (117 Pearl Street, Noank, +1 860 536 7719;

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A great history of Connecticut’s naval legacy can be found at the SUBMARINE FORCE MUSEUM, including a tour of the first nuclear submarine USS Nautilus. Free admission, closed Tuesdays. (Crystal Lake Road, Groton, +1 800 343 0079;

BEAR’S SMOKEHOUSE in downtown Hartford and Windsor features local craft beers and woodsmoked, authentic, Kansas City style barbecue. From ribs to brisket, there isn’t anything on the menu not worth trying. (+1 860 724 3100;


W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M #NSBlueBox


Football has taken Robbie Keane on an extraordinary life journey, from Tallaght to California. With Euro 2016 still to play out, we find out how he came to be the all-time record Irish scorer and hear about his family life in Los Angeles. WORDS KEN EARLY PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS


obbie Keane’s first time on a plane was to fly from Dublin to London for a trial at West Ham United. He was 14. Twenty-one years later, after a career that’s taken him from the Dublin suburb of Tallaght to LA, via London, Liverpool and Milan, well: “I’ve done a lot of air miles since I started playing football, put it that way.” No wonder he is one of Aer Lingus’ brand ambassadors. Keane has been making the transatlantic trip from Los Angeles to Dublin every couple of months since he signed for LA Galaxy and moved to the West Coast with his wife Claudine and their older son Robert in 2011 (sibling Hudson is just eight months old). With 67 goals for Ireland, Keane is the world’s highest international goal scorer among currently active players. Barring injury, he will captain the Ireland squad at Euro 2016 in France (June 10 to July 10), which will be his third international tournament. He knows, though, that at age 35, the achievements of 19 years in the Irish jersey no longer guarantee him a starting place in the team. How will he handle it if the tournament kicks off and he finds himself on the bench? “Just like I’ve handled it over the last few games,” he says. “The team is bigger than any individual. I’m at a certain point in my career now, where this is what ... kind of happens. And I’m okay with that. If you’d asked me five years ago, I probably would have said no. But as you get older, you are AERLINGUS.COM |

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KEANE ON LA PLACES TO EAT “LA is really a restaurant scene, if you like. Whether it’s Monday or Saturday, everyone goes out to eat, places will be busy. When I like a place I’ll stick to it for a while. One we’ve been going to recently is Il Pastaio, a little Italian in Beverly Hills (400 North Canon Drive, +1 310 205 5444). There’s Boa, which is a famous steakhouse in West Hollywood (9200 Sunset Boulevard, +1 310 278 2050). And another great place is Nobu, above, overlooking the water in Malibu (22706 Pacific Coast Highway, +1 310 317 9140). That’s a must.”

more understanding. But I’m not going there just to be a cheerleader. I’m there to help as much as I can. First and foremost, I’m there to play. Either to start or, if I’m on the bench, to come on and score and help Ireland progress.” Part of his job as captain will be to help the less-experienced players adjust to the demands of a big international tournament. “You try to keep the intensity off them, keep relaxed around the hotel, stuff like that. It’s natural for younger players to feel that nervous energy.” Well, most of them do. Keane was only 21 when he played at his first tournament, the 2002 World Cup in Japan and Korea, which would make him younger than any of the players who are likely to represent Ireland at Euro 2016. And he didn’t seem nervous at all. “The thing is, when you say young players ... me and Duffer [Damien Duff, Keane’s friend and former international team-mate] – we were proper young players when we came in. Seventeen, 18 years old. And that’s when you have no 38 |


fear. When you get a bit older, into your mid-20s, it changes. Most of our players are 25, 26, but with no real experience of playing in international tournaments. Most of them have played a lot in the [English] Premier League and I’m hoping that will help them, playing in big games. “There’s nothing like playing in tournaments for your country. Naturally we’ll have a few nerves – like Sweden will, like Belgium will, like Italy will. It’s about how you take that on as a player. And that’s up to individuals.” Duff recently suggested that one of Keane’s roles would be to negotiate with the manager, Martin O’Neill, and his assistant, Roy Keane, for a bit of downtime for the squad. “Martin and Roy aren’t stupid,” he said. “I’m sure Robbie said ‘give us a couple of nights out’. The Irish players like to drink and, if you give us a couple of beers, then we’ll live off that for a week.” “Did he say that?” Keane asks. “Ha ha. Well, the subject hasn’t come up yet. I do think we’ve

Above, mellow moments – part of Robbie Keane’s role as captain at Euro 2016 is to help the less-experienced players adjust to the demands of a big international tournament. “You try to keep the intensity off them.”

THINGS TO DO “It depends who you’re with. If you’re with kids, go to Universal Studios, definitely (, and Disneyland ( is only half an hour away. There’s a lot to do for kids in LA. For adults, Malibu Beach is good and Manhattan Beach is great for shopping.” STAPLES CENTER FOR LA LAKERS (NBA) & LA KINGS (NHL) “For basketball, I enjoy sitting courtside at the Staples Center (staplescenter. com), top, watching the movements of the players, listening to them talking. With the ice hockey, I go a lot with my son. That’s a very entertaining game to watch live. The speed of the game, when you’re right down on the ice, they’re whacking each other, banging into the glass ... we quite enjoy that.”

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies direct from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four times per week.




FREE ENTRY Pre-book a guided tour now at






got, as a nation, for some reason, a reputation – it’s not fair on the players we have now because the game has completely changed. So when people say, ‘oh, the Irish team like a drink’ – it’s really coming from the Jack Charlton [a previous manager] days. “You hear, say, [Tony] Cascarino talking about it all the time. It puts things in people’s heads. I mention Cascarino because I saw him on TV, talking about it. Every team that I’ve played for, the manager will give them a night out. Every team. Ireland just got cast as the drinkers. And it’s not fair on the players because that’s not the reality. Of course every player would like to relax and, if they have a beer way before the games, it’s no harm. It’s about doing it at the right time.” Ireland’s bad results in Euro 2012 and the 2014 World Cup qualifiers had led to concerns that the Irish game was beginning to

Above, Keane giving it a go at the UEFA European Championship 2016 Qualifying Round at Dublin’s Aviva Stadium last September, in which the Republic of Ireland defeated Georgia.

“You can take the kids out every day, you’re not worried if it’s going to be raining or snowing. That’s something I really like about LA” 40 |


struggle. Few young Irish players were showing the kind of natural skills that Keane already had when he made his international debut aged 17. As a father of two, Keane has seen how kids today divide their time between countless afterschool activities, making it harder for them to find the time to practise their skills. “I think the reason is – and we’re all guilty of it when we have kids – it’s all the stuff kids can do indoors. It’s definitely got to do with computer games but it’s not just that. It’s like, kids have got too much to do now. They have a lot going on. They pick what they’ll do – oh I’ll do this today, I’ll do that today – for us it was just football, football, football. “We had an Atari when I was a kid. But you’d get it at Christmas and you’d play it for a few days, then you’d be bored. You’d be back out on the road. I just remember everybody was always out on the road playing. Always. Whether it was raining or not, we would always be outside. As soon as I finished school – bag in, straight out. On the road, playing football.” What about homework? “Ha. Sometimes. Your Ma would call you in for dinner then you’d be straight back out again, until she calls you in late in the evening.

You don’t see that as much now. When it’s a nice day out like today, you’re driving past fields and they’re empty. I would have loved a field like that when I was younger! Mostly for me it was on the road. Playing on the road.” Didn’t it get a bit too easy playing against the kids from his street? “Didn’t matter, I just loved doing it. I was better than all of them, yeah, but I just could not put the football down. I used to play with my brother, he was four years older than me. So physically he was a lot stronger than me. I’d play against him and his mates, so I was playing at their level. That helped me as a player. Made me stronger. It’s just something that we loved doing. It has definitely changed with the technology the kids have. “That’s one of the things I like about LA. It’s an outdoor place; you can take the kids out every day, you’re not worried if it’s going to be raining or snowing or whatever. That’s something I really like about it.” And of the long-haul commute every few months: “I actually quite enjoy it,” he says, “because you can just switch off from everything. Turn the phone off, watch a movie ... maybe it can be stressful if you’re with the kids, carrying loads of stuff, but if I’m on my own, I find it quite relaxing.” A couple of years ago, the disgraced former FIFA president, Sepp Blatter, a man who has spent even more time in the air than Keane, gave his personal travel tips to the magazine Global Player. “How can you sleep during trips? That is a personal thing,” Blatter said. “For me, the humming noise of the engines at take-off is the best possible sleeping pill.” Keane also finds it easy to sleep: “A couple of glasses of red wine will get you off no problem. That’s what I usually do ... no more than that.” Blatter’s other cardinal rule for flights: “I don’t work. No documents, no interviews. And I’m very determined about it.” “‘I don’t work’?” Keane responds. “Was he talking about on the job there or ...?”

The GUINNESS® word and HARP device are trademarks and are used under license. Please remember to drink GUINNESS® responsibly. © Guinness & Co 2016


The Governors WHO Niall Wynn and Dave Regan WHAT Proprietors at Proper Order Coffee The story of Proper Order Coffee is filled with the influential characters of Dublin’s coffee community. Dave Regan, far right, started out as a chef but when Colin Harmon of 3fe served him a coffee that had a flavour descriptor of Toffee Apple, it changed the course of his career. It was Harmon who helped Regan train for the Irish Brewers’ Cup in 2012, which he won. Regan went on to work at Vice Coffee Inc. and in Love Supreme, after a stint in Prufrock Coffee in London. Niall Wynn, right, was working as a barista at Coffeeangel under Karl Purdy when he met Regan, and they discovered a shared interest in competitive coffee. “It sounds strange but training for these competitions can get quite stressful,” says Wynn. “We did quite a bit of training for the championships together. We ended up representing Ireland in the World Latte Art Championships in 2015. Throughout training and competing, whenever we had an idea or did something well we’d say ‘proper order’.” When they opened Proper Order Coffee shop in January of this year, they wanted to represent what was best in seasonality. Instead of locking themselves into using one roaster, they rotate between companies such as Square Mile, Koppi and Drop. They’re excited about the World Barista Championships in June. “Anything that helps Dublin up its coffee game to the next level should be welcomed by everyone in the industry. It will put the spotlight firmly on Dublin’s coffee culture where baristas are constantly pushing and making a career out of what has traditionally been seen as a short-term job.”

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SHOTS The Irish are well known for their love of tea but it’s coffee that’s having a moment. To coincide with this month’s World of Coffee expo, we meet some of Dublin’s coffee connoisseurs. WORDS AOIFE McELWAIN PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS


pecialty coffee culture in Dublin is made up of much more than just a well-brewed cup of coffee. It starts with roasters sourcing beans directly from sustainable farmers. Then there are the baristas and the competitions they enter, and finally there are the independent coffee shops championing local and specialty roasters. The hidden ingredient in their cups of coffee is community. It’s a big year for this community in Dublin. This month, World of Coffee ( is taking place in the capital for the first time. More than 10,000 coffee delegates from around the world are expected to descend on the city for three days of competitions and conversations, on June 23-25. Natalia Piotrowska, founder of Coffee Consultancy Events (, will represent Ireland on the world stage at this year’s World Barista Championships, a major draw at World of Coffee. Meanwhile, Gary Hollywood is the Irish Aeropress

champion representing Ireland. In the last decade, there has been a surge in the value placed upon a well-crafted cup of coffee. So why has specialty coffee found such a welcoming home in Ireland? “When you give people something great, they tend to love it. Beneath that is a sneaky journey of taste development that keeps you looking for more quality, more taste and more variety,” says Dublin roaster Fergus Brown of Roasted Brown ( Travel has had an impact too, says Ken Flood of Love Supreme ( coffee shop in Stoneybatter. “Irish people are moving home from places like Australia and the US and are bringing the specialty coffee way of life back with them.” “Ireland is in a really lucky position,” says Karl Purdy, founder of the Coffeeangel ( chain of cafés. “We can look east, but we can also look west. We can take what North America do well, and look at the heritage and history and tradition of Europe, and make something distinctly Irish out of it.” AERLINGUS.COM |

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The Mentor WHO Ger O’Donohoe WHAT Co-founder at

First Draft Coffee

Ger O’Donohoe will be a familiar face to those who frequent The Fumbally Café, in Dublin 8. “The coffee scene in Ireland is run by passion first and foremost,” he says. “We are always learning and evolving.” Alongside his business partner, fellow barista and Irish Brewers’ Cup Champion, Rashel Winn, he started First Draft Coffee in 2015 (, after seeing a need for an independent, barista training school. Why has coffee become so popular? “When the Irish started to come back from abroad, particularly from Australia and London in the early 2000s, they missed that alternative third place. In Ireland it has been the pub, but we’ve seen the café take that place slowly. I don’t

think the pubs are in any danger, but I think the popularity certainly shows a want for an alternative,” says O’Donohoe. The duo felt the care of the coffee community first hand, through the support shown to Winn during her recent battle with cancer. A fundraising drive earlier this year by members of the Irish and international coffee communities to help Winn and her family was thoroughly heart-warming, and a testament to the close-knit nature of this community. “The support genuinely pulled her through an awful and complicated period,” says O’Donohoe. “We were speechless at the show of support, encouragement and love.” Winn passed away on April 15, 2016, aged 29, and her loss will be keenly felt at this year’s Barista Championships, and among the Irish coffee community for a long time to come.

The Artisan WHO Monika Palova WHAT Roaster and barista at 3fe In an industrial warehouse in the depths of Dublin’s Docklands, two roasters work side by side roasting one of Ireland’s best-known specialty beans. When I first see Monika Palova, she has her ear next to the drum of a coffee roasting machine, listening for the first crack of the coffee bean. “We get our beans from our roaster friends at Has Bean,” explains Palova. Steve Leighton, of UK-based Has Bean, is co-owner of 3fe alongside Colin Harmon. The beans are sourced by Leighton from farmers around the world. At 3fe (, Palova and her roasting partner, Simon Ledzius, roast beans without software, relying on their senses. The green beans go into the roaster and, after about ten minutes, they start to change, going from green, to yellow, to light brown. “Then the coffee starts cracking, due to the release of steam and gases. From there things move very fast and we have to pay a lot of attention to hit the exact moment when the coffee is ready to go out.” What does it take to be a great roaster? “As a roaster, a drive to do things the right way and the same way every week is incredibly important,” Harmon tells me. “The variables are always changing but people expect consistency. We rely so much on Monika and Simon to bring that accuracy to what we do. They are unwavering in their focus on delivering on that promise every week.” 44 |


In Ireland


The Contender WHO Monika Winiarek WHAT Manager at Coffeeangel When I meet Monika Winiarek in the Pembroke Street branch of Coffeeangel (, she shows me the small bag of beans sent to her by the Irish Aeropress Championships. Between her receiving the beans and competing in the Irish heats, she has to come up with a recipe. “I try to find a recipe that reflects the most interesting characteristics of the coffee, while also trying to create a cup that is unique to my own taste and will hopefully stand out at the competition.” Winiarek’s early interest in specialty coffee blossomed when she started working with Karl Purdy, Irish Barista Champion and owner of Coffeeangel, in

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2010. Since opening in 2004, Coffeeangel has seen many of Dublin’s best baristas tamping and frothing behind its counters. “It was working with the Coffeeangel team that inspired me to work hard at honing my skills as a barista and learning more about every aspect of coffee culture,” explains Winiarek. She entered her first Aeropress competition in Dublin in 2014 and was placed first, going on to represent Ireland in the World Aeropress Championship held in Rimini, Italy that year. “The benefits of placing in a coffee competition not only give the barista a sense of achievement,” explains Winiarek. “It’s also a way of learning more about origin and process of producing the quality coffees they love to work with.”

The Directors WHO Peter Sztal and Frank Kavanagh WHAT Founders at Cloud Picker Peter Sztal, left, and Frank Kavanagh, right, left their former careers in graphic design and banking to pursue their passion for specialty coffee, and ultimately launched Cloud Picker in 2013 (cloudpickercoffee. ie), having run a successful café in Science Gallery at Trinity College Dublin since 2010. Their cosy warehouse on Sheriff Street is packed full of bags of green beans, their roasting machine, boxes waiting to be

packed with roasted coffee beans, and an adaptable demonstration space where their team train new customers, who include Oxmantown and Forest Avenue. Cloud Picker roast their beans weekly to order and pack by hand, sourcing their coffee from farmers who hand pick the coffee cherries from the tree rather than using machinery. “We’re called Cloud Picker because, on our first visit to a coffee farm, we had to go up through the clouds to see the coffee pickers,” explains Sztal. He shows me videos of the coffee picking, washing and

fermenting phases that the couple saw at a farm they visited in Guatemala last year. “What excites me about coffee,” says Sztal, “is the fact that I don’t know everything about it. I enjoy the perpetual study.” The duo see specialty coffee as slowly becoming mainstream. “In order for it to grow, the industry needs to open up. We can’t be elitist. After all, it’s new to all of us, so there is no room for looking into the cup when making a coffee. We need to look up and embrace the customer and talk to them.”


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The Graduate WHO Lesley Nolan WHAT Barista at Vice Coffee Inc. Lesley Nolan first caught the specialty coffee bug while travelling in Australia. When she arrived back in Dublin in 2013, she started working with Tom Stafford of Vice Coffee Inc. on Middle Abbey Street ( “Tom and the team taught me everything I now know. It takes patience and time to train someone with little experience so I am very grateful.” Stafford, Dave Regan of Proper Order Coffee and

Bruno Ferreira Silva helped Nolan train for the 2014 World Brewers’ Cup in Rimini, Italy, after she came first in the Irish heats. “Everyone has their own reasons for competing,” says Nolan. “For me, it’s the overall experience and learning.” In the championships, baristas have to choose a theme and a bean, and then build a presentation and brewing method around it. It all takes time, dedication and practice. “There’s a real buzz on the day of competitions. You meet all the other competitors, soak up the atmosphere and then get to work preparing all your equipment in the space allocated to you. Cleaning, grinding and tasting while reciting your presentation in your head a million times over, crossing your fingers that you don’t forget the most important parts of your speech.” Nolan is currently retraining in holistic health and wellbeing therapies. “That’s one of the things I love about being a part of the coffee community. Everyone has a range of different passions and you get to know some really interesting people. But coffee will always be a part of my life. It’s a love of mine that I don’t want to leave behind.”

An Extra Shot It’s a testament to the energy of the specialty coffee scene in Ireland that we had far too many people to talk to for this piece. Instead, we limited our scope to capturing a snapshot of what’s happening in the capital. Within Dublin, there are a host of other outstanding contributors such as coffee shops like Clement & Pekoe ( and Kaph (, roasters like TwoFifty Square (twofiftysquare. ie) and Full Circle Roasters (, and innovative coffee technology designers like Marco ( The activity is no less enthusiastic outside the capital, where you’ll find independent roasters like Ariosa in Meath (, Badger & Dodo ( in Cork, Bell Lane in Westmeath ( and Bailies in Belfast ( helping baristas to better their brews. Coffee shops and cafés such as Established in Belfast ( Canteen in Limerick (wearecanteen. com), Coffeewerk + Press ( in Galway and Filter in Cork are all raising the coffee bar in their own neighbourhoods around the island.



ASHBOURNE, CO.MEATH - Eircode A84 EA02 - PH: 01 835 1999 -


THE TIDE IS NIGH When the sun shines, Dubliners come out to play at coastal spots that are bathed in tradition. WORDS BRENDAN MAC EVILLY PHOTOGRAPHS AISLING McCOY

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Bay watch - all around the sweeping curve of Dublin Bay, Dubliners have their favourite bathing spots.


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air old Dublin, city by the sea, catches the light like a shining jewel when the sun comes out. Dubliners, in shock at the sudden flood of light, doff as many items of clothing as decency allows, slap on the sun cream and head for the sea. The Victorian fashion for “taking the waters” for health and well-being never wore off on the Dubs. Its coastal towns and villages, developed through the 19th century as seaside resorts, remained popular with holiday makers into the 20th century, and day-trippers into the 21st. The DART – a two-tonne, snot-green snake of a commuter train – rumbles along an electric rail line around Dublin’s coastline to any number of bathing spots. The most popular is the Forty Foot in Sandycove, ten kilometres south of the city, where people from all walks of life dive extravagantly from the rocky ledges or wade slowly in by the steps, entering deep water that has been swum in for centuries. Among its many swimmers is esteemed artist and photographer Gary Coyle, who has been sinking into the Irish Sea on a more-or-less daily basis for the past 16 years. Armed with a camera, Gary takes the plunge to capture 52 |


Above, taking the plunge at the Forty Foot in Sandycove. Below, left to right, Susan Yek, Han Ying Khok and Han Yuo enjoy that postswim feeling.

the perfect split image of sea and sky, in which the peaking waves appear as mountains. “After a couple of years, you start to realise this is a cult. If I went without a swim for three or four days I’d start to get withdrawal symptoms.” He still feels the benefits of his regular swim though, “it clears the mind completely, slows down the breathing”. Gary joins a motley crew whose addiction to these cold waters is akin to religious ritual, but they are joined by hundreds if not thousands who flock to the sea on a hot day, to clear a hungover head or to cool off from the city heat. Whether yours is a 20-minute Trojan swim or a 20-second screaming splash, you can walk back towards Dun Laoghaire along the seaside promenade with your head held high. Go for a whipped ice cream at the famous Teddy’s ( or sample the foods of a contemporary Irish market in the People’s Park on a Sunday afternoon, where charcoal-barbecued burgers, hog roasts or falafels can be followed by fresh coffee and homemade brownies ( Less than two kilometres south of Sandycove is the historic Dalkey village, home to some of Dublin’s wealthier residents, and a great starting point for a stroll along






EAT AT … DALKEY Breakfast or brunch on The Magpie Inn’s first-class full Irish breakfast, with many of the ingredients locally sourced. The menu changes throughout the day and gives a good showing of contemporary Irish cuisine, with dishes such as fresh Sligo mussels marinière served with toasted sourdough bread, or salt and chilli langoustines in ginger beer batter. (115/116 Coliemore Road, 01 202 3909;

DUN LAOGHAIRE Nestled above the Brian S Nolan furnishings shop, White Tea purveys excellent and wholesome soups, salads and tarts served, with zeitgeisty self-awareness, on mismatched china crockery. And before you commend yourself for being virtuous, check out the homemade sweets – do not leave without a slab of carrot cake or frangipani tart. (102 George’s Street Upper, 087 361 5600)

DUBLIN 4 There’s nothing like fish and chips to follow a dip in the sea. Hop off the DART at either Lansdowne Road or Grand Canal Dock and nip in to my favourite fish ‘n’ chip shop, Ezio’s. Their fish box offers a full meal for even the hungriest among us at exceptional value, only €5.80. (12 Bath Avenue, 01 667 6618)

HOWTH The harbour is lined with great seafood restaurants but I always find myself arriving at the wrong time of day – too early for dinner, too late for lunch. Thankfully the Howth Market is open from 9am to 6pm, seven days a week and offers every kind of fare in all the right portions. (Harbour Road, 01 839 4141)

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Clockwise from top left, Aaron and Elliot Garrett enjoy Teddy’s ice cream; Sarah-Jane Murphy at the Forty Foot; Shane Robertson of the White Tea café; no diving allowed at Seapoint; delish fish at The Magpie Inn.



Ireland’s answer to the Amalfi coast. On the Vico Road, where the homes of Bono and Enya overlook the waves, a small gap in the wall leads to a footbridge over the DART line and down the hillside to Ireland’s last bastion of the nude bather – Hawk Cliff. This is my favourite spot to swim, not for the nudity mind, but the panoramic vistas, or a chance encounter with a pod of dolphins, porpoises, or a lone seal. Travelling north out of the city, Dublin’s swimmers are equally blessed. The DART will take you to Howth village, where a vibrant fishing industry supplies the numerous seafood restaurants that face the busy harbour. On Burrow Beach – aka the “Hole in the Wall Beach” for the narrow, sandy walkway between two mansions that leads onto this idyllic shoreline – you’ll be a long time wading out to sea before the water gets deep. The combination of hot sand and shallow water will make the sea that bit warmer as the tide comes in. But the peninsula’s best offering is the “Bog of Frogs Walk” (, a ten-kilometre trek through a hillside thick with golden, flowering gorse. This three-hour hike brings you by the Baily Lighthouse, past the adrenaline junkies taking death-defying leaps from Puck’s Rock and the Lion’s Head, towards the southernmost tip of the peninsula, where a more serene swimming experience awaits. The Jameson family, of Irish whiskey fame, added a wall to the natural rock

Below, the sheltered water of Dun Laoghaire Harbour is an ideal spot for learning to sail.

DONABATE There’s an unfortunate lack of beachside bars in Dublin but, at the Waterside House Hotel, a spacious bar patio leads directly onto a quiet beach in the shadow of yet another Martello tower. Enjoy your pint in view of Lambay Island, Howth Head, Ireland’s Eye and Malahide Harbour. (Donabate on the Beach, 01 843 6153; HOWTH Its predecessor The Cock Tavern didn’t have a great reputation so it is with open arms that the peninsula (natives and tourists) welcomes The Harbour Bar. Open fires and snugs are cosy for post-swim pints, while its microbrewery-inprogress has so far launched Howth Lager, with rumours of a self-brewed gin debuting this summer. (18 Church Street, 01 839 5876) SKERRIES Joe May’s is the first place that any proud Skerries person will want to drag you to for a pint, to overlook the sea, listen to the lapping waves and hear the unmistakable clinking of sailboat masts. This is because Skerries boasts the eastern shoreline’s only west-facing beach – and is therefore the only beach on which you’ll catch a sunset. (23 Harbour Road, 01 849 1241)


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3 DELIGHTFUL DIVERSIONS DUBLIN The last stronghold of the idler and flâneur, the city’s art galleries welcome you through their doors free of charge. The best among them is The Hugh Lane – big enough to find something you like, small enough that you won’t spend time rushing from one piece to another without taking the time to appreciate what’s in front of you. (Charlemont House, Parnell Square North, 01 222 5550; HOWTH Another Martello museum – Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Museum of Vintage Radio – tells a different story entirely and throws the visitor back to the glory days of radio, when this tower was a wireless station, receiving the first transmissions between Howth and Holyhead. Its idiosyncratic name gives a flavour of the higgledypiggledy collection of high-end tat and genuine antiques that awaits visitors. Collections include stamps, telegrams and, mysteriously, “valves”. (6 Balscadden Road, 086 815 4189; 56 |


SANDYCOVE Before James Joyce set sail for the Continent, he spent a few nights in the Martello tower that overshadows the Forty Footy bathing place, where the opening of Ulysses is set. Today, the James Joyce Tower is a museum, run by a group of enthusiastic volunteers, with a broad array of Joyce memorabilia on display. Worth a visit for the rooftop views alone. (Sandycove Point, 01 280 9265;

Clockwise from top left, step back in time at Vico Road; John Duris at Seapoint; Han Luo leaps in at the Forty Foot and James Joyce’s death mask on display in the James Joyce Tower.

Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

No data roaming charges

No log in

No download necessary

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano. Simply go to or scan this code.


SLEEP AT … DUBLIN If you’ve missed Bono in Killiney and Larry Mullen Jr at his home in Howth, perhaps you might spot them at their very own riverside Clarence Hotel. This Dublin landmark, at the trendier end of Temple Bar, is a perfect vantage point for September’s River Liffey Swim, in which hardy citizens have been racing beneath its bridges since 1920. (6-8 Wellington Quay, 01 407 0800;

over a century ago. It still holds the water from the incoming tide, creating a tidal pool for the perfect midtrek dip. For a true taste of country life, a commuter train will take you further north to Skerries, a picturesque and tight-knit fishing town on the northern edge of Co Dublin. Here I met novelist Kevin Curran who swims daily during the warmer months of the year. He comes to the sea for “a sense of openness and unlimited horizon. The ocean gives you space to think, to fill with your own thoughts.” It was Kevin who introduced me to the Frosties, a group of locals who swim come rain, hail or shine. And despite the group’s name, they don’t mind the cold. Even in winter months, they prepare for the “Frosties Freezer” – a short and bracing sea race held on December 21. And on Christmas Day there are no less than four swims organised along the Skerries coastline. The eccentricity required for this kind of pursuit gives a little taste of the madness to follow when you re-enter the city for an evening’s revels ... 58 |


Clockwise from top, Linda McCormack behind the bar at Joe May’s in Skerries; drinks on the terrace at The Haddington in Dun Laoghaire; room with a view at Martello Tower Sutton; the hardy Frosties swim year round at Skerries and one of their regulars, Theresa Murphy.

DUN LAOGHAIRE If the sea water is too cold, the on-site pool and spa at the Royal Marine Hotel might be more to your liking. A four-star hotel since 1828, Queen Victoria is said to have wolfed down a 16-course breakfast in the Royal Marine shortly after setting foot in Ireland. No swimming for at least an hour, Vic! Doubles from €179. (Marine Road, 01 230 0030; Also with terrific sea views is The Haddington – formerly a clutch of four Georgian houses before being converted to a hotel in the 1950s. There’s nothing old and fusty though about this boutique hotel, its interiors understatedly contemporary. Gorge on authentic pizzas in its Olivetto restaurant, or raise a chilled aperitif on the outdoor terrace overlooking the pier. Doubles from €65. (9-12 Haddington Terrace, 01 280 1810; SUTTON In the early 1800s, the British built a series of “bombproof” forts – Martello towers – along Ireland’s coast to defend against Napoleonic invasion. Situated on Howth Head, the circular Martello Tower Sutton offers luxury selfcatering, with 360-degree views from the rooftop kitchencum-dining room. A seven-night stay costs €1,600. (Red Rock, 086 164 2671;

Best 100 Shops Outside London


t’s been quite a journey from Ireland’s oldest weaving mill to being voted one of the 100 most inspirational stores in the world… Here’s what the judges of the respected Trade magazine Retail Week had to say: “….What began as a small Irish woollens shop at the original Mill has evolved into a mixture of Heal’s for homewares, Selfridges Food Hall, Betty’s tea rooms, Ghost for womenswear and Daisy & Tom for kid’s clothes and toys. Avoca sells their own brand products as well as carefully chosen pieces from a wide range of upmarket brands without looking piecemeal. Each of the 11 stores throughout Ireland have the feeling that each item has been lovingly bought by a single buyer and manages to make something traditional feel contemporary. The merchandise is laid out as though you are looking around the house of a friend with very good taste”. Ok…. it did take 290 years to achieve… Today the Avoca shops, cafés and Food markets are well known throughout the world as being the best in Ireland. Please come and see for yourself. The visitor centre in Avoca Village, Co. Wicklow offers a chance to see the weavers at work and a glimpse into the beautifully coloured and historical world of Avoca.

Avoca Mill & Tour Café, Store, Weaving Mill & Visitor Centre Avoca Village Co. Wicklow

Avoca Kilmacanogue HQ, Cafés, Food Market, Garden Centre & Store Kilmacanogue Bray, Co.Wicklow

Avoca Suffolk Street Café, Food Market & Store Suffolk Street Dublin City Centre

Avoca Malahide Castle Café, Foodmarket & Store Malahide Co. Dublin

Avoca Powerscourt Café, Food Market & Store Powerscourt House Enniskerry Co.Wicklow

Avoca Rathcoole Café, Food Market & Store Rathcoole N7 Naas Road Co. Dublin

Avoca Letterfrack Store Connemara Co. Galway

Avoca Monkstown Food Market & Salt Café Monkstown Crescent Co. Dublin

Avoca Moll’s Gap Café & Store Kenmare Ring of Kerry Co.Kerry Mount Usher Gardens Café, Foodmarket & Store Ashford Co. Wicklow


Gold stars – San Francisco’s food scene, including at Liholiho, opposite, is as famous as its Golden Gate Bridge, above.

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FOOD OF This writer was lured to San Francisco for its vibrant food scene. But what happens if you leave your heart in San Francisco – and bring back a new fiancé? WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY


ike Tony Bennett croons in his classic 1960s ballad, I Left My Heart in San Francisco, I too fell hard when I first visited The Golden City five years ago with my thenrecent boyfriend – smitten with its cute cable cars bobbing through the fog, pastel houses and beautiful Bay views. But the thing I loved most was the food: the tamale trucks, the smoothest coffee, the fresh snap of just-in-season asparagus. Like parting lovers, I promised to return. Of course I’m not the only one having a love affair with the city’s food: San Franciscans are obsessed. Named by US food bible Bon Appetit magazine as “The Best Food City in the Country Right Now”, San Francisco has become a byword for everything that’s hot in the food scene: inventive, in season and eminently photogenic. A whopping 26 new restaurants were announced the month before my visit. Forget dinner and a show – here, dinner is

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the show. It’s standard to see lines forming at 4.30pm for a restaurant that doesn’t open until 6pm, or for restaurants to book out months in advance. San Francisco’s foodie thread stretches far back – you can draw a direct line from the Gold Rush of 1848 (which would swell the city’s population from 1,000 to 25,000) to the snap-happy brunchers of today. People from every corner of the globe arrived seeking their fortune, bringing with them new culinary traditions that are still going strong. Combine this with the city’s lush surrounding farmland and a busy

Clockwise from above, one of the dishes in Californios 16-course tasting menu; Tulipna floral bouquet; Californios chef-owner Val Cantu, and a beatific macaron selection. 0404 65000 BY APPOINTMENT ONLY

Handcrafted Cabinetry


SLEEP AT … TECH SAVVY Celebrating San Franciso’s legendary counter-culture tradition, the new Hotel Zeppelin blends playful, psychedelic styling with thoroughly modern amenities, including beloved SF brands such as Sightglass Coffee and Dynamo Donuts, in-room Netflix, a playroom decked out with an oversized electronic bingo board and a partnership with buzzed-about concierge app Scout. Rooms from $345. (545 Post Street, +1 800 662 1142; GREAT VISTAS Even though it’s just across San Francisco’s most famous bridge, Cavallo Point Lodge feels worlds away – its suites are dotted among stately pine trees on National Park grounds. The rooms come with fireplaces and rocking chairs – all the better to drink in that beautiful view. Rooms from $265. (601 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, +1 415 339 4700; STYLE CENTRAL A modern boutique hotel right around the corner from Union Square, Hotel Zetta is a luxurious base from which to explore the Bay Area. Rooms are decadently spacious for a downtown location, with a salvage chic design ethos resulting in lots of found art and fun details (our room featured portraits made of old floppy disks). Rooms from $295. (55 5th Street, +1 415 543 8555; 64 |


This page, Golden Gate Bridge from Lands End Trail. Opposite, clockwise from top left, The Progress’ Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski; Mexican mouthfuls in the Mission neighbourhood; a cosmo cocktail masterclass; snapped squares of Dandelion chocolate; Ravi Kapur, chef-partner at Liholiho, and grilled Spanish octopus at The Progress.

port and you have the perfect recipe for foodie paradise. I make for Californios (3115 22nd Street, +1 415 757 0994;, deep in the heady Mission neighbourhood. Spearheaded by chef-owner Val Cantu, the tiny, 26-seat restaurant features luxe decor and crisp, white linen tablecloths – unusual in famously casual California. Also atypical is that the 12- to 16-course tasting menu ($125) is the only dining option, and only revealed at the end of the meal. Young, passionate staff delicately use tweezers in the calm, open kitchen, creating visual feasts inspired by Cantu’s Mexican heritage. Another foodie darling is The Progress (1525 Fillmore Street, +1 415 673 1294; theprogress-sf.

com). Set in a former movie theatre, it’s aesthetically impressive, with everything from chairs, light fixtures and dishes custom-made by local craftspeople. Warm and friendly chef-proprietors Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski have created a set sharing menu ($58 per person), the highlights of which include grilled beef tartare dished up with green garlic-smoked oyster aioli, kohlrabi, and puffed rice. The mood is mellow and you quickly see why eating here has been described as “the best dinner party ever”. Speaking of which: hobnob at Lazy Bear (3416 19th Street, +1 415 874 9921; Chef-owner David Barzelay started it as a pop-up in 2009 in an underground venue that became

so popular a lottery system had to be introduced to handle demand for tickets. It now has a home in the Mission, in a venue that’s both rustic and sleek. Tickets (from $145) are bought in advance and sell out within minutes. The night kicks off with cocktails on the mezzanine, where mingling with fellow diners is encouraged, driving home the idea that you’re at a dinner party, not a restaurant. “Nibbles” are also proffered: a shot glass contains a whipped, scrambled egg mousse layered with bacon oil, maple syrup and house-made hot sauce. For dinner we sit at communal tables beside the open kitchen to which we’re invited to wander up, wine glass in hand, and chat to the chefs. Another pop-up gone permanent is Liholiho Yacht Club (871

Sutter Street, +1 415 440 5446;, which serves Hawaiian-tinged fare. Step over the welcoming blue and white “Aloha” tiles and enter chef-partner Ravi Kapur’s domain, where the playlist is achingly hip, the mood decidedly chill and the food is fun and inventive. Kapur deftly remixes Hawaiian classics, such as tuna poke, and creates new signature dishes, such as rich beef tongue nestled in poppy-seed steam buns. If the choice of eateries proves overwhelming, book a food tour. I tried Gourmet Walk ($85 for a three-hour tour, +1 415 312 1119; in eclectic Hayes Valley, whose foodie cred has been given a boost through speciality shops, street food cafés and covetable macarons. Highlights

included “made to order” ice cream at Smitten (432 Octavia Street, +1 415 863 1518;, where patent-protected machines use liquid nitrogen to churn out the unctuous goodness in minutes, and also upscale Vietnamese sambos at DragonEats (520 Gough Street, +1 415 795 1469; Next on our list was the Dogpatch neighbourhood – the Brooklyn of San Francisco and home to

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SAN FRANCI SCO daily.


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INSTA-WORTHY EATS ... BAKERY Jostle your way through iPhone-wielding snappers at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse. Home of the headline-grabbing “cruffin” (croissants baked in muffin tins, then rolled in sugar and filled with pastry cream), other quirky favourites here include sushi-themed croissants and jalapeño and jam brioches. Expect everything to be sold out by 11am on a weekend. (1042 Larkin Street; ICE CREAM It takes a while to reach the front of the queue at long-time favourite Bi-Rite Creamery but you won’t be disappointed. Flavours include green tea and honey lavender, and favourite staff combos are listed on exterior walls so you can ponder while you wait. Tip: for those in a hurry, there’s a separate speedy window for soft serve. (3692 18th Street, +1 415 626 5600; COFFEE HIT There’s no doubt about it: San Francisco’s coffee game is strong. Pick your café based on what bit of the bean scene appeals to you most – for photo-friendly latte art, try Ritual in the Mission. (1026 Valencia Street, +1 415 641 1011;

Clockwise from top left, rainbow roots at the Ferry Building Market; city views at dusk; the “cruffin” at Mr. Holmes, and ice cream at Bi-Rite Creamery.

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Clockwise from far left, the Mission neighourhood; bright backpacks in the Dogpatch neighbourhood; our writer Nathalie and beau Ben having the post-engagement giggles; edible flowers at the Ferry Market, and trader Emily Nathon.

SMART TIPS WHEELY GOOD Hit the food trucks on a Friday night at Off The Grid (5pm-10pm;, a weekly outdoor food market on the grounds of the Fort Mason Center, with a distinct party vibe. The pork buns at The Chairman are well worth standing in line for. RAINBOW BRIGHTS Kicking off from San Francisco’s historic City Hall, this year’s SF Gay Pride Parade, June 25-26, is a wild, weekend-long extravaganza of music, food and festivities, with more than 300 exhibitors and 20 stages. HAM SOLO Do a self-made food tour by downloading the brilliant Detour app (detour. com), whose collection of ten rich, immersive audio tours were created by awardwinning food producers based in key SF locations. Find out more ways to Fly Smart by visiting

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the SFMade movement, which champions local manufacturers and producers. There, old industrial buildings are now portioned into micro-factories/stores that make and sell everything from bright backpacks to decadent chocolate. One early morning I braved the fog and ventured to the Embarcadero and Ferry Building Marketplace (outdoor markets on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, +1 415 983 8030; While I blearily rubbed sleep out of my eyes and sought out the nearest coffee stand, I spotted

some of the city’s most renowned sous chefs stocking up on fresh, organic produce and chatting to farmers and suppliers about edible flowers. It’s a must-visit for any selfrespecting foodie. As the end of my trip approached, Ben – that very same boyfriend from five years ago – joined me for a day of soaking up the sights. We made one final pit stop – Alamo Square, with its famous Painted Ladies, a row of postcard-perfect Victorian houses now bathed in glorious Californian sunlight. And for a city filled with surprises, I was in for my biggest one of all: Ben pulled a ring out of his hoodie pocket and asked me to marry him (spoiler alert: I said yes). I was giddy with love and excitement – not just at our engagement but also at the realisation that we now have the perfect excuse to visit San Francisco time and time again. Safe to say, the Bay Area hasn’t seen the last of us.



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to brighten your day

Our edit of your favourite arts, culture and floral fests.

ne of the many excellent things about summer is the festivals. Now that the weather is clement – mostly – we’re all invited to head out into the great outdoors to listen to arias in amphitheatres, coo at show gardens, nod approvingly at urban installations, and rock out with the great unwashed. Once upon a time, festivals were aimed squarely at young folk – who now have their own kids that they want to sling over their backs on a trip to the food tent, or pogo with at the silent disco. We are now a generation of festival goers of all ages, persuasions, and brand of Wellington boot. So, without further ado: Paint a flower on your cheek, raise an artisanal cocktail, and leaf through our compilation of your favourite arts and culture fests.


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Body & Soul, Co Westmeath Didn’t she do well? Avril Stanley first launched Body & Soul as a chill-out enclave at Electric Picnic festival, combining music, poetry, visual arts and wellness. In 2009 it became a festival in its own right on the grounds of Ballinlough Castle, Co Westmeath, and is now one of Ireland’s best-loved summer shindigs. B&S regular Amanda Kavanagh, editor of IMAGE Interiors & Living, has particularly fond memories of 2014: “I remember snaking through the crowd and finding my friends just as John Grant took to the stage. Lovely sunny afternoon. Nothing like heading for an afternoon massage after you’ve lugged all your camping gear to the campsite either.” This year, check out The Gloaming, Mercury Rev, Santigold and much more besides.


Flower Carpet, Brussels


Assembled by 100 volunteers in under four hours, this is flower arranging on a colossal scale. A huge carpet made up of more than 600,000 begonias takes up most of the historic Grand-Place in Brussels, creating a patchwork of bright petals that needs to be seen to be believed. The display, open to viewing for a brief window every two years – this year the carpet will be on display for four days from August 12 – you can amble around its perimeter but the best views are from the balcony of the town hall. Backdropped by the magnificent Gothic architecture of the square, the carpet has been described as “breathtakingly majestic, and let’s not ever forget Godiva chocolatiers around the corner!” They’re both absolute must-see spots.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin Brussels daily.



Jazz Age Lawn Party, Governor’s Ball, NYC Probably the best dressed festival in the world returns to Governor’s Island this July 11-12 and August 13-14. There, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d wandered on to the set of a Great Gatsby reboot at this family friendly homage to all-things 1920s. From gals in flapper frocks, to gents in three-piece suits and straw boaters, there’s no limit to the razzle dazzle, with craft cocktails, dance shows, Charleston classes and live jazz from the handsome Michael Arenella and His Dreamland Orchestra. Reported

the great Bill Cunningham for The New York Times last year: “For many, it’s an escape from present day reality to what is perceived as sophistication and freedom that the flappers in the Roaring Twenties brought to America.”

Aer Lingus flies to New York up to three times daily, and from Shannon daily.


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Outside Lands, San Francisco

5 London Design Festival Running every year to coincide with Fashion Week, the London Design Festival aims to bring innovative, dynamic design to the sites and sounds of the capital and boy, does it confound and astonish. Taking over major landmarks, the festival welcomes hundreds of creative and vibrant design projects and workshops. The festival also places emphasis on smaller artists and studios with pop-up events and unique spaces scattered around the city centre. This year’s event kicks off September 17-25.

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

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Located in the gorgeous Golden Gate Park, you’ll never confuse this festival with any other. “Outside Lands is right bang in the middle of San Francisco, you can watch the final set and still catch last orders in town,” according to David Milligan, an annual attendee. “The festival attracts some of the best bands in the world to play and the party atmosphere mixed with the relaxed vibes of San Francisco’s bar scene make it a truly unique experience”. And if the music isn’t your thing, there’s also Beer Lands, Wine Lands and a plethora of food trucks that make up the area known as “Gastromagic”. They also have a green programme that runs alongside the festival to make it as eco-friendly as possible. So Californian.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.







Wilderness, Oxfordshire Could this be the most genteel music festival ever? Located in Cornbury Park, Oxfordshire, the Surrey and West London massive descend on a sublimely sylvan location of woodland and boating lake. It’s where music (artists this August 4-7 include Robert Plant, The Flaming Lips and the Wilderness Orchestra’s tribute to David Bowie) really plays second fiddle to more diverse attractions, among them wild swimming, cricket matches, literary debates, outdoor theatre, dance, yurt building workshops, a pop-up spa and tofu hugging (probably). “I love the food element, especially the long-table banquets,” says Danielle Riley, who has been to Wilderness for each of its six years, “They have Long Table Banquets and chef Angela Hartnett curates a forum.”

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Birmingham daily, and from Shannon six times per week.

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7 Chelsea Flower Show “The RHS Chelsea Flower is a gardener’s Mecca”, according to Mary Heskin, a green-fingered gardener in Galway. The fanciest bouquet in the RHS’ garden shows, Chelsea’s displays, designed by the world’s most renowned gardeners and horticulturalists are utter fantasy and the Pimm’s and champagne bars scattered throughout only add to the air of affluence in London’s wealthiest neighbourhoods. However, all pretence of appearance quicky dissipates once the Chelsea bell rings on the final day and every plant, pot and sculpture goes up for sale. “There’s plenty for us mere weekend gardeners too!” assures Mary. The crowd are so delighted to be there that it makes for a wonderful few days away from the chaotic capital.

Aer Lingus offers multiple flights from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London Heathrow, and daily flights from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.


Edinburgh Fringe Festival


“When the Edinburgh Fringe Festival rolls into town it completely transforms the city,” says Jenny McKeever. The naughtier sister of the Edinburgh International Festival (August 5-29), the Fringe’s atmosphere is as electric and eclectic as the artists and revellers it attracts. “If you can’t decide where to start with the festival’s colossal calendar”, advises Jenny of this year’s event August 5-29, “take a walk down the Royal Mile and get some inspiration from people handing out flyers, or simply lounge in The Meadows [park] if the weather is behaving”.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Edinburgh daily.


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Arena Opera Festival, Verona In fair Verona this June 24 to August 26 is the 94th Arena Opera Festival, held in one of the world’s most impressive theatres – the Arena di Verona. “If you only ever see one opera in your lifetime,” recommends David Hallam, “watch it here. The setting and acoustics

are magical.” Dating back to the first century, concert venues don’t get much more evocative than this; where once some 30,000 Romans were packed into this structure, it now comfortably seats 15,000. The amphitheatre hosts live performances all year round (acts

include Björk, Radiohead, One Direction and, er, Spandau Ballet) but it is the annual opera festival when it really comes into its own. This year welcomes big hitters Carmen, Aida, La Traviata, Turandot, Il Trovatore and ballet star Roberto Bolle and friends.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Verona four times per week.

This family-friendly festival is the perfect opportunity to check out Dublin’s Phoenix Park – Europe’s largest urban park. Bloom has a real easy-going feel as people meander up and down pathways looking at the planting schemes and unusual species of its show gardens. “It’s not a stroller roller derby either”, says Mary Heskin, “you don’t have to spend the entire day edging around prams”. There’s plenty of space to sit down and soak up the atmosphere too, whether it’s listening to the live orchestra or tasting your way through all the culinary bites our little isle has to offer. It’s the ideal afternoon retreat from the hubbub of Dublin city.

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Bloom Dublin

In the next issue we share your Rooftop Wonders (bars, restaurants, farms, etc) in Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.” - Dylan McGrath

17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596

“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrown produce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relies on its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (0) 1 7079596

bar layout Centre Tapas y it C ng ti ci Dublin’s dining ed “This ex e new hub of gn th in ed on ti at I have desi posi ing concept th vation in small ar sh a is e en no sc e, seasonal, in u’re to allow simpl ts of flavour. So whether yo or rs ow bu sh e yl om tapas st g back fr in m co e, tr su ea ca al going to the th e company of friends, this th be just enjoying ways fun and engaging to al n”. experience is eaten on the ru or er ov d mulle


- Dylan McGra

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066

ial, Fade St Soc Dublin 2 om 4-6 Fade St, eetsocial.c tr s e d fa 6 6 T:01 60400


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Prague may be this year’s European Capital of Sport but it’s best known for its arts, culture – and fantastic pilsner. We see what’s new in this most historic of capitals. WORDS JAMIE BLAKE KNOX PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN BREITHAUPT AND YVETTE MONAHAN

This page, Klara Pavlikova with Delphina in Letná Park. Opposite, Prague Castle from the mini Eiffel Tower on Petrˇín Hill.


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ew cities in the world can capture the imagination quite like Prague. The wildly eccentric Emperor Rudolf II made Prague the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and the city is scenically situated on a bend of the Vltava river. For centuries, it has been contested by rival dynasties and denominations. It has withstood Slavic hordes, endured a succession of Habsburgs, resisted occupation by the Nazis and survived domination by the Soviets. All of this tumultuous past is reflected in its unique cultural heritage and architecture. Trying to negotiate Prague’s most iconic landmarks at the height of summer can be a challenge though. There are usually dense crowds of tourists and it’s not hard to figure out what draws them. The Old Town has the Baroque dome of St Nicholas’ Church, the soaring pointed spires of the Church of Our Lady before Týn, and – tourist trail centrepiece – the beautiful


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15th-century Astronomical Clock. The Hradčany district and castle complex also contains St Vitus Cathedral, a Gothic wonder that holds some stunning stainedglass windows crafted by the celebrated Czech Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. It can all seem too romantic for words and it’s not surprising that it attracts large crowds. But there’s no need to panic. Prague is full of other amazing attractions, which are off the main drag. Fortunately, Prague is an unusually compact city. Public transport is cheap and easy to navigate, the trams zipping along at a rate of knots. You’ll also notice that the metro is located deep, deep underground. This was so that it could be used as shelter in the event of nuclear war. Thankfully, that danger has passed – and means that in the summer heat, the underground offers some relief from the sun. Once you’ve done a pilgrimage of the historic landmarks, the

The historic pedestrian Charles bridge as it crosses over the Vltava river.

Žižkov district is well worth exploring. This is the burial place of Prague’s most famous literary son – novelist Franz Kafka. Residents sometimes refer to it as the “Republic of Žižkov”, and they are only half-joking because the area has always enjoyed an identity that is quite distinct from its neighbours. Originally, it was a workers’ district that served the heavy industry of the 19th century. Today, it buzzes with nightlife. In fact, it has the highest concentration of bars anywhere in Europe. These range from small and cosy taverns to chic cocktail bars, and there’s one to suit just about every taste. Many of the older buildings have been reconstructed but the district has retained an edgy feel, becoming a haunt for students, writers, artists, musicians and assorted bohemians – all drawn to its cool clubs, smart restaurants and cheap rents. There is also a great deal of architectural variety here. The faded grandeur of the late-19th century apartment blocks,


SLEEP AT … OLD WORLDE It would be easy to mistake the Questenberk Hotel for a church – colossal Baroque statues of Jesus and assorted saints greet you as you enter. Built in 1620 as lodgings for monks of the Strahov Monastery, it still contains many of its original artworks and features. The monks’ cells have been tastefully renovated and each room has its own distinct character. And it is only a few minutes’ walk from Prague Castle. Rooms from €104. (Úvoz 15/155, +420 220 407 600; CHIC Housed in a 16th-century building in the heart of ancient Prague, Bishop’s House is bringing pared back elegance to a new level. Soft lighting and sleek design. Rent a bike at

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reception and take a cycle around the old town or head to the Charles Bridge just a few metres away and people-watch as the river ebbs by. Rooms from €140. (Dražickéno Námeˇstí 6/62, +420 257 532 320; CHI CHI The recently opened Hotel Josef in the historic centre elegantly blends in with the richness of its surroundings. The interiors are bright with wall-length windows and minimalist but comfortable features. For joggers, it also offers morning romps around the city (Tuesday and Friday, 7.30am) or, if you prefer to run solo, staff will recommend a series of routes. Rooms from €99. (Rybná 20, +420 221 700 111;

Top, Peter Veidner at the Palác Akropolis restaurant, and doggie heaven in Žižkov district, above.

Soviet constructivist buildings and the splendid colour of the Art Deco former theatre and now multimedia arts centre, the Palác Akropolis (, all share the same streets. Cute cafés, vintage boutiques and pop-up shops abound and there always seems to be something new to do and somewhere new to visit.

3 VITAL VISITS ... NAKED TOUR Originally hailing from Kildare, Marcus Bradshaw, above, offers fun, off-the-beaten-track walks for independent travellers on a wide variety of themes. His tours are meticulously researched and nuanced, his delivery relaxed and full of wit. He has lived in the city for years and is a fountain of fantastic tips and helpful recommendations. (+420 778 030 508;

At 216 metres tall, it’s hard to miss the Žižkov Television Tower. This, a striking symbol of Communist-era paranoia, was specifically designed to block TV transmissions from the decadent West (ironically, it was not completed until 1992, three years after the collapse of the Soviet bloc). It holds the dubious distinction of being named as the “Second Ugliest Building in the World” by and I confess that I first shared that view – until it won me over. Adorned with bizarre statues of babies crawling up and down its towers – all the work of Pragueborn surrealist sculptor David Černý – visitors are welcome to its observatory, restaurant and even hotel (, each offering extraordinary panoramas. At night, when the whole building is

illuminated with dramatic shafts of light, it looks truly spectacular. It is at night that Žižkov really comes into its own. The atmosphere is so chilled and relaxed that people often bring their pets along to some of the nightclubs and it’s not unusual to see them grooving on the dance floor accompanied by their dogs. Seriously. And although technically in nearby Jiřího z Poděbrad Square, BeerGeek (Vinohradská 988/62, +420 776 827 068; is definitely worth the short journey. It has some 30 beers on tap, including some of the very best in town. After sampling their nectar, I recommend rustic brewhouse Pivnice U Sadu (Pospíšilova 1528/2, +420 222 727 072;, which serves traditional Czech food until late and is perfect for nighttime revelry. Also recommended

Clockwise from top left, the controversial Žižkov Television Tower; students amble through the Hradcˇany district; cherry blossoming in the Žižkov neighbourhood, and the Baroque ceiling in the Loreta Church of the Nativity.

JELENÍ PRÍKOP Also known as Deer Moat, it was designed to allow the Habsburg emperors to hunt deer from the safety of the castle. Meanwhile, few people know that it’s possible to walk along the bottom of the moat. In the heat of summer, this provides some welcome cool and shade. To one side, there is the summer palace – on the other the huge castle complex looms high above you. KAMPA GALLERY Set in the grounds of the old Sova’s mill on a small island beside Charles Bridge, it houses pieces by the celebrated Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund, along with one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of work by Czech abstract painter František Kupka. It spans his working life and is a riot of colour and emotional expression. (Museum Kampa, U Sovových mlýnu ˚ 2, +420 257 286 147;


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EAT AT ... RELAXED At Wine Food Market, centre left and right, which is nestled in an old warehouse, you sit at communal wooden tables surrounded by a wide variety of fresh food stalls. If you’ve begun to tire of the local cuisine, then order some excellent pizza and pasta. As you enjoy the food, you may also become aware of some rather surreal statues by the acclaimed sculptor ˇerný, looking David C down from the ceiling and rafters. (Strakonická 948/1; HIP Vinohradský Pivovar is one of Prague’s newest additions to the thriving microbrewery scene. Most of this historic building was destroyed by fire but the basement managed

to survive. With its whitewashed vaulted ceilings and simple, clean decor, it may seem like the lair of a Bond villain. The menu keeps to the basics, offering hearty dishes, which are good value for money, and a great selection of beers. (Korunní 106, +420 222 760 080; HEALTHY Czech food is not renowned for being vegetarian friendly but if all the meat is getting a bit too much, head to Lehká Hlava, top right. Situated in a 14th-century townhouse on one of the shortest streets in the city, this small restaurant offers excellent vegetarian fare served in quirky, beautifully decorated and colourful rooms. (Boršov 2/280, +420 222 220 665;

DRINK AT ... CHILLED Rooftop terrace T-Anker serves up a great range of beers – from both local microbreweries and foreign drafts. Located only a short distance from the Old Town, and with the majestic looming Gothic spires of Our Lady before Týn only a stone’s throw away, this is the perfect vantage point to watch the sun set over the city. (OD Kotva, 5th floor, Republiky 656/8, +420 722 445 474; HIP Positioned near the unconventional but spectacular Žižkov Television Tower, Bukowski’s pub is located in the heart of one of the trendiest neighbourhoods. 84 |


It is full of peculiar furnishings and is wildly popular with locals and expats. Stays open until the early hours – but beware of the cocktails! (Borˇivojova 689/86, Praha 3-Žižkov) CHIC The small Bonvivant’s CTC, left, is unassuming on the outside but has a dazzling interior. The tin ceiling is stunningly ornate and contrasts sharply with the black-and-white chequerboard floors. The ambience is relaxed and timeless but they take their cocktails very seriously. The bartender wears a white lab coat and creates designer cocktails and tapas. (Bartolomeˇjská, 305/3, +420 775 331 862)

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area


onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’

Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only



*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin


SMART TIPS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PRAGUE five times per week. PRAGUE PROMS It was in the lavishly decorated Art Nouveau Municipal House that the Czechoslovak Republic was declared in 1918 . It hosts a series of concerts organised by the Czech National Symphony Orchestra, Prague Proms. Tickets are relatively cheap and it runs from June 21 to July 26. BEER CHEER Now in its four th year, the wonderfully named Tasting Festival of Small and Mini Czech Breweries celebrates some of the country’s best microbreweries and is an absolute must for beer enthusiasts. Running June 17-18 , the atmosphere is relaxed, and there are plenty of food stalls.

Clockwise from top left, Mario Pollujansky at Café Louvre; the view from Letná Park beer garden; the entrance to the Loreta, and the tram that runs through the Hradcˇany district. Below, DOX gallery’s café.

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is a trip to DOX art gallery (Poupětova 1, +420 295 568 123;, in Holešovice. It’s located in a reconstructed former factory and specialises in contemporary Czech art, architecture and design. The buildings retain a sense of their industrial heritage, with high windows and facades of exposed bricks alternating with strips of white plaster. This is one of the coolest, most cutting-edge galleries in the city, with a constant flow of unconventional and thoughtprovoking events and exhibitions. If the excesses of the night before begin to catch up on you, retire to the Riegrovy Sady park. This is famed not only

for its wonderful views, shaded pathways and monuments, but also for its legendary beer garden ( There, it’s easy to forget that it’s less than 30 years since this city emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. One of its recent presidents was jailed as a dissident by the old regime but, since then, Prague has emerged as one of the most exciting capital cities in Europe. It lies at the heart of the continent in more ways than one, and this beautiful park is an ideal place to order a glass of the local beer, sit back in the sunshine and contemplate Prague’s compelling transformation.

O S J

G Temple Bar, Dublin








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Gogartys 58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 • email:

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Visit for self catering apartments and international hostel accommodation


Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

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Amsterdam is the gift that keeps on giving. From its historical sites to its hipster ’hoods, the Dutch city never ceases to amaze and excite. WORDS CAROLINE FORAN PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

ust a few hours into Amsterdam’s concentric streets and you’ll be lusting after your very own rickety canal house. Cyclists cruise by in every direction without any sense of urgency – despite their industrious past, the Dutch don’t do stress – and the constant chirrup of bike bells provides the city with its unmistakable soundtrack. The tummy-gurgle-inducing scent of poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes) percolates through its cobblestoned streets, while canals, lined with picture-perfect tulips and houseboats, demand attention. Amsterdam is strikingly both old and new, with cutting-edge architecture set against a backdrop of merchants’ houses so seemingly fragile, you fear they might blow over in a gust of wind. The city’s vices are as well documented as its virtues, of course, but there’s something else that keeps visitors coming back: its inclusive charm. Amsterdam



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is small but not too small; it’s gentrified but not unbearably so. There’s scarcely a street that isn’t Instagrammably pretty and the pace of life is more relaxed than most capitals, yet still, the city remains a bustling hub of commerce and culture. Amsterdam’s modest roots as a quiet fishing village on the Amstel River were irrevocably changed with the right to free passage through its waters in the 14th century. It fast became a key, prosperous trade port later enabling the storied Golden Age, when Vermeer, Rembrandt and Bosch strutted their stuff. The diamond and spice trade of the 19th century brought more fame and fortune until the economic crisis post-World War I and the German occupation of World War II (a visit to the Anne Frank House and the Jewish Historical Museum are must-dos for the first-time visitor) paused the party. And so we arrive at modernday Amsterdam, home to 780,000 inhabitants, with residents hailing from more than 180 countries. Here we must seek out the natives or, more pointedly, its hipsters. Love ’em or loathe ’em, the H-squad are always a good barometer of what’s

Clockwise from top, the cool rooftop swimming pool at the W Hotel; cyclists enjoying the dappled sunshine at Vondel Park, and charming buildings on Haarlemmerstraat.

SLEEP AT … conjoined canal houses, the decor is inspiring and its breakfasts to die for. You’ll also be hard pushed to find a hotel bed as comfortable. Rooms from €309. (Keizersgracht 224, +31 20 523 5235;

CLASSY No amount of nights will be enough at the five-star Pulitzer Hotel, above. Comprising 25 restored, 90 |


HIP Amsterdam’s W is an architectural feast for the eyes. It is also incredibly comfortable and very lively, thanks to its “Happenings” series, when notable DJs take to the decks of its top-floor bar and outdoor terrace with its heated pool and great panoramic views. Rooms from €440. (Spuistraat 175, +31 20 811 2500;

ARTY Art’otel is mind-bendingly cool – it even has a full-time curator. Bedrooms feature kooky-cool art too, as well as the essential comfy bed and snug bathrobe. Rooms from €350. (Prins Hendrikkade 33, +31 20 719 7200; BOUTIQUE The deep blue shades of traditional delftware are evident throughout the Andaz. Meticulous design imbues every single element here, and their canal-side location – and cocktails – are also tip top. Rooms from €423. (Prinsengracht 587, +31 20 523 1234;

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Clockwise from above, Babiche van Beurden at the sweet retreat, Pluk Café; great service at Jansz restaurant; a calm moment overlooking Prinsengracht; Airto Cramer head bartender at Tales & Spirits.

EAT AT … UPSCALE Nestled within the Pulitzer Hotel, Jansz is a worthy contender for a special occasion. Its interiors are modern and elegant, the atmosphere delightfully laid-back-Dutch. And the food’s not bad either: every morsel packs a satisfying punch. A threecourse dinner for two with drinks costs around €150. (Reestraat 8, +31 20 523 5282; VALUE Touted by locals as the best Thai restaurant in all of Amsterdam (and, in my mind, the world), Rakang, right, never fails to exceed expectations. With a cosy, artistic 92 |


interior, friendly staff and an affordable menu, prepare for the fact that after Rakang, no meal will ever taste as good. Sorry. (Elandsgracht 29-31, +31 20 627 5012; BUDGET Positioned somewhere between a thick American pancake and a thin French crêpe, the Dutch pancake should be eaten to be believed. At Pancakes Amsterdam – whether choosing sweet or savoury – you’re in for a treat. Expect a queue on weekends, but it’s worth it. (Berenstraat 38, +31 20 528 9797;

hot and what’s not. So, where do they eat Eggs Benedict and drink whiskey sours from inconveniently shaped jars? For the Dutch equivalent of Williamsburg or Shoreditch, hightail it to Jordaan and its trendy neighbour De 9 Straatjes, where Amsterdam’s coolest creatives spend their time being, well, cool and creative. Jordaan was one of the first areas in the city to enjoy aesthetic rejuvenation during the Golden Age, when upwardly mobile folk required a suitably

picturesque place to live. Famously, it was defined by the area in which you could always hear the bells of Amsterdam’s biggest church, Westerkerk (Prinsengracht 281) – as described by Anne Frank in her diaries. Nowadays, it’s populated by well-to-do 20/30-somethings. Jordaan’s inhabitants might have beards and/or tattoos but they dress well, curating their wardrobes from indie boutiques and vintage stores. They shop locally, eat locally, and they don’t drink overly complicated coffees (there isn’t a Starbucks in sight). They’re also very welcoming of tourists into the higgledypiggledy streets of speciality shops and quirky restaurants. Graze at Noordermarkt’s Organic Farmer’s Market on a Saturday, or indulge at the tiny but atmospheric, and pretentionfree, Vlaming Eten & Drinken (Lindengracht 95, +31 20 622 2716; No selfrespecting taste bud could fail to be impressed by its sesame-seedencrusted tuna steak. And you don’t need a long-haul flight for the taste of Thailand: just go to Rakang (Elandsgracht 29-31, +31 20 627 5012;, where interiors are cute, colourful and quirky, staff are second-to-none and

DRINK AT … COCKTAILS No whistle-stop hipster tour of the city is complete without a cocktail, or four, at the cosy Tales & Spirits, right. With its old-school speakeasy vibes, both the service and the quality of cocktails here are second to none. Expect a story behind every creation – and order the Zombie if you dare ... (Lijnbaanssteeg 5, +31 6 5535 6467; WHISKEY For those who like to order their malt without the headache of choosing from a menu, Jordaan’s JD William’s Whisky Bar has the pared back, unfussy coolness you’ve longed

for. Cue straight-up whiskey from a family-run establishment, plenty of locals, always a seat and almost no stags or hens. Hurrah. (Prinsenstraat 5, +31 20 362 0663; AL FRESCO If you’re looking to get acquainted with the locals, pay Struik a visit. It’s a small enough bar on the inside, but outside its benches overlook the canal. Street art and cool people make it one of Jordaan’s most bustling and creative hotspots, with DJs mixing music most nights. (Rozengracht 160) AERLINGUS.COM |

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Clockwise from below, American style brunch at Pancakes! café; shredding at the skate park on Marnixstraat; a customised bike in Jordaan; Nicolette Bosschieter, proprietor of Pancakes! café.

you’ll have arguably the best pad Thai you’ve ever eaten. As for Dutch pancakes with more topping options than you can probably handle, Pancakes Amsterdam (Berenstraat 38, +31 20 528 9797; pancakesamsterdam. com) is where it’s at, washed down with innovative cocktails afterwards at Tales & Spirits (Lijnbaanssteeg 5, +31 6 5535 6467; talesandspirits. com) or for a more informal sup, at the industrial-chic JD William’s Whisky Bar (Prinsenstraat 5, +31


HOLLAND FESTIVAL Featuring international performing arts from every corner of the globe, this cultural and innovative delight has been running since the 1940s. Theatre, music, spoken word, opera, ballet, street-performances and plenty more this June 4-26.


RIJKSMUSEUM Two words: awe inspiring. Not just the timeless masterpieces and modern collections that live inside it but the building itself. With everchanging exhibitions, there’s always something new to behold – and

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don’t forget your token snap by the “I amsterdam” sign, right, outside. (Museumstraat 1, +31 20 674 7000;


CANAL CRUISE There’s an overwhelming number of companies operating canal cruises from the main port (in front of the central train station) but our tried and tested boat trip is the Lovers option – don’t worry, there’s no awkward kiss-cam or anything naff like that (in fact we don’t know why it got that name). (Prins Hendrikkade 25, +31 20 530 1090;



20 362 0663; jdwilliamswhiskybar. com). Make time for some selfgifting at the Monday flea market, Noordermarkt, and get some headspace just off bustling Rozengracht, at Galerie Fons Welters (Bloemstraat 140-C, +31 20 423 3046;, which showcases art works by emerging, local artists. It would be easy to get completely absorbed by this buzzy ’hood and never venture into Amsterdam proper but, if you’re

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a first-time visitor, you’ll want to see the star attractions. Get your bearings on, of course, a canal cruise (see “3 Must visits”, page 94). No debut trip to Amsterdam would be complete, either, without a stroll around Museumplein, home to some of the world’s most lauded museums: the Rijksmuseum (Museumstraat 1, +31 20 674 7000; and Stedelijk Museum (Museumplein 10, +31 20 573 2911; It’s an incredibly chic district, with plenty of upmarket dining and designer shops, the luxurious House of Bols: Cocktail & Genever Experience (Paulus Potterstraat 14, +31 20 570 8575; and the city’s internationally renowned orchestral concert venue, the stunning home of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra (Jacob

SMART TIPS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to AMSTERDAM four times daily, and from Cork daily. SIGHTSEEING If you’ve big plans to cover some serious museum ground, you’ll save heaps with an I amsterdam City Card, which you pay for upfront before enjoying free access to loads of star attractions. Buy at the airport, Centraal Station or at the Museumplein. From €55 for 24 hours through to €85 for 96 hours. More info from CINE Throughout June, Amsterdam plays host to open-air cinema on the “beach” at the waterside café, Pllek. Screenings run ever y Tuesday after sunset, the programme offering a mix of cult classics, arthouse gems and world cinema. Tickets €5. (Tt. Neveritaweg 59, +31 20 290 0020; pllek .nl)

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Clockwise from top left, sunny cyclist crossing the bridge at Vondel Park; inside the spectacular Rijksmuseum; blossoming at Vondel Park, and art spying at Binnen Oranje Straat.

Obrechtstraat 51, +31 20 305 1010; In summer, feel the sand between your toes on one of Amsterdam’s many urban beaches. Take the short ferry from Centraal Station to Pllek (Tt. Neveritaweg 59, +31 20 290 0020;, the hippest of bars on the hippest of man-made beaches, complete with live music, DJ sets and open-air cinema. The next day, rejuvenate in the 47-hectare Vondelpark; home to an open-air theatre, the most exquisite rose garden with more than 70 different species, a skate rental shop and several cute cafés and restaurants. We could dedicate an entire issue to Amsterdam’s diversity but that would spoil its magic. It’s much better discovered IRL (that’s hipster speak for “in real life”, BTW).


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Lauren Heskin catches some of the best waves at home and away.



SURF AT There are a few spots around Bundoran town where you can expect a few peaks. For beginners, Bundoran Beach right in the heart of town is the perfect place to find your feet, ditto Tullen Strand, a short walk away. For more experienced surfers – and in a northerly swell – paddle out to the reef at the southern end of the beach. It breaks left and right and if the wash is too big to get beyond, leave from the pier. In a pumping westerly swell get yourself to Mullaghmore, Co Sligo, where you’ll find the pros cruising some monster waves. For gear rental, lessons, or weather reports, call into Surfworld (, run by surfer Ritchie Fitzgerald. 98 |


STAY AT Located in the heart of Bundoran with an awesome view of the bay, TurfnSurf Lodge (turfnsurf. ie) offers activity packages that’ll have adrenaline junkies twitching. For those hoping to merge surfing with an historical element, swap the Atlantic wilds for the luxurious gardens and award-winning spa of Lough Eske Castle ( lougheskecastle). CHILL AT Surf’s up all year round but the best time to hit the town is when Sea Sessions (June 24-26; draws surfers and music lovers. It’s a small enough festival and thankfully doesn’t attract hardcore ravers. Think chilled beers, great tunes, and probably rain – it is Donegal after all. Why not switch it up and consider venturing to Lough Key National Park ( and get your adrenaline fix by swinging through the trees of the canopy walk?


You’d be forgiven for thinking that Bundoran was a sleepy sort of town – until you reach the beach. This is Ireland’s first true surfers’ hub, with some of the most consistent waves on the west coast, welcoming surfers all year round to its chilly waters and smooth waves.

Ciaran Haresnape surfing in Bundoran.


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The Aquitaine area is not only known for its famous Bordeaux reds – it’s also the home of French surfing. The Atlantic rips into the Bay of Biscay and there are plenty of surf spots trickled along it, some just a short hop from Bordeaux with all the amenities and waves for surfers and every skill level. SURF AT Stop by nearby Lacanau, a relatively sleepy spot that has a lovely beach break that runs both ways. The wave is clean and consistent, ideal for beginners but can build up to 10 metres so it’s worth experienced surfers having a look too. A short trip north is Le Pin Sec with a lovely right-running wave that can quickly build into a tube as the tide rolls in. If you want to make a complete trip out of it, journey south to Hossegor,

where big wave surfing is king. But take note, surfing the main beach La Graviére is no easy feat – it’s often only accessible by Jet Ski and waves are tall, fast and break in the shallows – a pro’s only territory. Consider yourself warned. STAY AT Accommodation is fairly sparse once you leave the bubble of Bordeaux. The brilliantly named Yelloh! Village Les Grand Pins (Plages Nord, Lacanau, +33 56 03 20 77; offers chalets and camping right on the beach. If you heart sank at the word ‘camping’, fear not, this is not regular camping, this is fivestar stuff. Think heated aquatic area with slides, Jacuzzi, lap pool and zen pool all steps from the ocean. For something slightly more romantic in Hossegor, check out the charming Hôtel

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux daily.

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Les Hortensias du Lac for views of the lake and a quick walk to the famous beach (1578 Avenue du Tour du Lac, +33 58 43 9900; CHILL AT You can’t venture into French wine country and not enjoy a few glasses. The largest wine tourism attraction in the world, the Bordeaux Wine Festival (bordeaux-wine-festival. com), kicks off June 23-26 so get practising your swirling and sniffing skills for their tasting trails and workshops. From October 4 the annual Quicksilver Pro France, part of the Men’s Samsung Galaxy World Championship Tour, comes to the region. Rock up and you’ll find the quiet maritime forest wide awake with tourists, locals and surf enthusiasts there to watch the pros compete in this two-day tournament.



NEWQUAY Long renowned for its distinctive culture, gorgeous coastline, Poldark, and, of course, the famous pasty, Cornwall in Britain’s southwest is beloved by local and international surfers alike, as much for its friendly atmosphere as for its consistent surf. SURF AT Generally, surf is best on the north shore, with Fistral considered one of the UK’s best surfing beaches. The white water that sweeps the long sandy shore is ideal for beginners, with plenty of room and enough wave power left to give any potential addict their first thrill. More seasoned surfers can leap from the rocks in

the south-west corner for a lovely long left along the rocky reef. Keep an eye out for the fickle big wave, Cribbars, off the headland at the north-east end. It needs a clean, sixmetre swell and an onshore breeze to break but when it does, expect to see plenty of pros wandering around the hilly village of Newquay. STAY AT For modern luxury head to Watergate Bay Hotel (watergatebay., where you’ll find cosy rooms and a calm atmosphere. Meanwhile, the four-star Headland Hotel’s self-catering holiday homes ( look right onto

Aer Lingus Regional flies from Dublin to Newquay six times per week.

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the Fistral swell and have all the privacy of your own place with the added advantage of the attached surf school, Surf Sanctuary, and access to the hotel’s luxurious spa, indoor swimming pool and whirlpool. CHILL AT For good, simple food, head to WAX in Watergate Bay. Along with cracking sea views, the vibe is mellow and you can try the local ciders. Bush Pepper (bushpepper. in Newquay village is part of the new food movement that’s accompanying the surfing renaissance. No-frills decor and a simple, yet tasty menu courtesy of Aussie chef Chris Brookes.


HALF MOON BAY California is probably the first place that comes to mind when you think of surfing, and there are plenty of mellow waves to be found along the West Coast. Only a short drive from San Francisco airport is Half Moon Bay, the artist-enclave turned surfers’ pilgrimage. SURF AT The town of Princeton-by-the-Sea has a lovely wide right for intermediates that rolls off the harbour jetty and into the main beach and there’s are a few small, easy-peelers just north of Pillar Point. And then there’s Mavericks. One of the most mythical big wave breaks in the world, Mavericks breaks off Pillar Point with plenty of viewing spots from the shore. It needs a huge west-north-west swell and easterly breeze to build but once it’s working, it is off the Richter scale. The Titans of Mavericks surf competition runs from here (the most recent in February), usually waiting until the swell is 12 metres or more, and pro surfers from around the world arrive to surf it with only a few days’ notice. STAY AT Live the true Californian lifestyle and camp if you can. There are loads of great state beaches and parks along the coast. Half Moon Bay State Beach ( has camping and barbecue facilities just steps from the ocean and there’s usually some white water for playing around on body boards. Keep an eye out for the low-flying pelicans; they’re not afraid of you.

CHILL AT There’s a scenic coastal trail that’s a 10-kilometre round trip from town, or else have a wander around the town’s local galleries. If you want to make a weekend out of it, head to Santa Cruz. Surf breaks right in front of the western headland, known as Steamer Lane, and a surfing museum is housed in the lighthouse nearby. For seafood, an absolute must is Phil’s Fish Market ( at Moss Landing. The grey warehouse lot gives way to live music, shared dining and the greatest chowder you’ll ever devour, served in a sourdough bread bowl.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.


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ERICEIRA The coastal fishing town of Ericeira is home to the first surfing reserve in Europe with water babies coming to cruise the waves on every kind of board. SURF AT The Ericeira region has eight kilometres of beach with a wave for everyone. The Reef has right-handed barrelling breakers for the advanced surfer, particularly with a heavy northwest swell. Big wave surfers should head to Coxos. Known as one of the best waves in Portugal, during a monster north-west swell it peaks perfectly for a right-hander, ideal for short boards and those wanting to try tricks. Despite its name, Praia do Norte is further south and, with lifeguards on duty, is a great spot to get the hang of the sport. STAY AT For a great holiday and perfect surf spot it’s got to be Chill in Ericeira Surfhouse ( The bright, fun rooms have sea views, a private surf school and communal barbecue dinners, ideal for laidback schmoozing. CHILL AT With an easy-going atmosphere, killer cocktail list and great tunes, Jukebox, a small bar in Ericeira town, is the perfect place to hit after the sun sets. If your limbs are feeling tight, consider trying Five Deep Breaths Yoga ( run by Nadia for some wind-down movements in the Boardriders Quiksilver store.

Aer Lingus flies Dublin to Lisbon nine times weekly.

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SANTA MONICA Fionn Davenport finds the best places to hang out at the end of Route 66.

Don't miss ... MUSIC AL FRESCO The city’s most compelling landmark – and the official end of Route 66 – Santa Monica Pier hosts a series of free twilight summer concerts covering all kinds of musical styles. Pack a picnic, take a seat on the sand and listen to the music as waves crash in the distance: 7-10pm every Thursday, July 7 to September 8. ( BEACH CLUB The 100-room house that William Randolph Hearst commissioned Julia Morgan to build for his paramour Marion Davies in the 1920s became a fancy hotel and beach club in 1947, before falling into disrepair. Enter local philanthropist Wallis Annenberg, who provided 106 |


millions of dollars for its repair on the condition that Annenberg Community Beach House would be free and open to all. Open 8.30am-5.30pm. (415 Pacific Coast Highway, +1 310 458 4904; PEDAL POWER Bikes are the best way to explore Santa Monica Beach’s 14-kilometre cycle path, which is part of a 42-kilometre trail that runs the length of the city south to Torrance State Beach. Most hotels have bikes you can borrow, but you can also rent them. Half/full-day $25/30. (Santa Monica Bike Center, 1555 Second Street, Unit A, +1 310 656 8500;

Santa Monica Pier in LA’s eternal sunshine.

Drink at ... TRENDY The indoor/outdoor bar at The Bungalow, on the grounds of the Fairmont Miramar, draws them in from all over the city (expect a queue at weekends), where they trade tall tales and selfies over cocktails and beers in a fabulous setting, right by the beach and – if you’re there on time – in perfect view of a scene-stealing sunset. (Fairmont Miramar, 101 Wilshire Boulevard, +1 310 899 8530;

Eat at ... FUN Bar Pintxo is small, cramped and boisterous – a convincing piece of Barcelona on Santa Monica Boulevard. Book a table or a pew at the bar and eat your fill from a tasty menu of Spanishstyle small plates (tapas and pintxos). The paella for four is a treat. Plates $7-17. (109 Santa Monica Boulevard, +1 310 458 2012;

DIVE BAR Hard to imagine author and legendary barfly Charles Bukowski fitting into a place that serves delicate plates of ahi tuna, but retro 1960s-style Barkowski (named after the Los Angeles-born author) is suitably dark if not really dingy; it does have daily Happy Hour and serves about 50 different kinds of beer. (2819 Pico Boulevard, +1 310 998 0069;


SPEAKEASY Access the Basement Tavern through a door in a parking lot behind the American Apparel store on Main Street and step back into the Roaring 1920s. Settle into a cosy booth, order a craftsman cocktail and enjoy the nightly live music – often blues, jazz or bluegrass. This is so LA. (2640 Main Street, +1 310 396 2469;

Sleep at ... ECO-CHIC Asian chic blended with solid craftsmanship is the style at the gorgeous Ambrose boutique hotel. Priding itself on being more sustainable than other properties in town, it runs a composting programme, recycles 75 per cent of its waste and all of its paper products are produced from 100 per cent recycled paper. Rooms from $220 (1255 20th Street, +1 310 315 1555; SWANKY The historic 1927 Embassy Hotel has been given a trendy revamp and renamed Palihouse, but its public spaces and 36 huge rooms have retained much of their Spanish Colonial Revival style and charm. Service is exceptional, as you’d expect

from a hotel frequented by LA’s trendsetting style merchants. Rooms from $300. (1001 Third Street, +1 310 394 1279; SWOON A sultry, sophisticated classic with luxurious casita-style bungalows, two supremely elegant main wings and luscious gardens, the wonderful Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows was the favourite getaway for Marilyn Monroe, Jean Harlow and a host of the Hollywood elite. Garbo lived here for four years: did her “Do Not Disturb” sign read “I want to be alone”? Rooms from $400. (101 Wilshire Boulevard, +1 310 576 7777;

Clockwise from top, ready-andwaiting bartenders in Palihouse; the local stone fruit salad at FIG; thirst-quenching cocktails at The Bungalow, and seaside living at the Fairmont.

FISHY Sugarfish embodies the principles of Kazunori Nozawa, who popularised omakase-style sushi in southern California and earned admirers for his ban on phones and loud talking in his restaurant. No such strictures here, but the “Trust Me” omakase selections prepared by Nozawa’s son, Tom, surely make his father proud. Sushi selections from $22. (1345 Second Street, +1 310 393 3338; FANCY The Fairmont Miramar’s poolside restaurant, FIG (named after the famous tree at the front of the hotel), is one of the best in Santa Monica thanks to the inventiveness of chef Yousef Ghalaini, who turns his expertise on local produce, sourced primarily from the twice-weekly farmers’ market on Arizona Street, into a tantalising Mediterranean menu. Mains $27-45 (101 Wilshire Boulevard, +1 310 319 3111;

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES four times per week.


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Shop Tax Free and Save in Ireland Are you a non-EU resident visiting Ireland? If so you are entitled to claim a refund on the 23% sales tax applied to all goods purchased (known as Value Added Tax or VAT) that you pay on goods which you buy in Ireland and take home with you. Premier Tax Free are Ireland’s Number 1 specialist agency providing this service to the vast majority of retailers in Ireland and also throughout Europe, enabling non-EU visitors to save money while shopping.

IT’S SIMPLE… GO SHOPPING! Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free logo; when paying for your goods ask store staff for a Premier Tax Free form and complete this in store. COMPLETE IT Fully complete the form, including your name, home address, passport number, dates you arrived and departed the EU, and your signature. CHOOSE A REFUND OPTION Pick the refund option that best suits your needs and travel schedule. You can get your refund

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onto your credit card or your Alipay account or choose to get a cash refund immediately from a Premier Tax Free city centre cash refund point. To find your nearest city cash location see RETURN IT When you are departing don’t forget to take your completed Premier Tax Free form to a Premier Tax Free refund desk at Dublin or Shannon airports where Premier Tax Free staff will assist you. This is a simple process and normally takes

less than one minute per person. If Ireland is not your final point of departure from the EU make sure you get your form Export Validated upon leaving the EU. You can also receive Export Validation in your home country from a Notary Public. Make sure you post your Tax Free form back to Premier Tax Free in the International Pre-Paid Envelope provided in store. For sales over €2,000 you will need to present your purchase receipts, goods, passport and completed Tax Free form to Customs for Export Validation.

For additional information and to discover the best Tax Free Shopping suggestions across Europe visit



Emma Sturgess mingles with cast and crew in MediaCityUK and Salford Quays in Greater Manchester.

Making travel work for you



The colourful streets surrounding the soaring MediaCityUK building.

ontroversial at its inception but now a thriving part of the UK’s broadcast and culture economy, MediaCityUK and the neighbouring Salford Quays make for a fascinating destination. Coronation Street and the BBC Breakfast sofa (not as comfortable as it looks) are both here, of course, but so are hundreds of smaller operations, providing state-of-theart solutions to the BBC, ITV and independent production companies. Served by frequent trams connecting to Manchester and the airport (it’s 15 minutes to the city centre), this waterfront hub also houses education (more than


SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MANCHESTER five times daily and from Cork up to three times daily.

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1,500 students are taught at the University of Salford) and digital enterprise. The Landing, designed as a place for micro-businesses and SMEs to mix it with the big boys, is a particular magnet for gaming companies, thanks to its interactive media labs. With all its soaring glass and shiny water (dipped into often for triathlons and watersports), MediaCityUK might seem a bit ... sterile. No chance, says Jonathan “Ozzie” Oswald, head honcho at visiting street food trailer The Hip Hop Chip Shop. “There’s a proper buzz about the place. A real community spirit. People really like to get behind the independent businesses in the area. Sometimes it feels like everyone is too nice – I’m convinced we may be part of some sort of Truman Show!” Truman or not, the show goes on at MediaCityUK – and you don’t have to be “the talent” to get involved. Theatre at The Lowry, audience tickets at the BBC and exhibitions at the Imperial War Museum North all form part of the cultural patchwork of an area that flourishes on air and off.

SMART MONEY Across the water from MediaCityUK, you can’t move for bargains at the Lowry Outlet Mall. It looks and feels like a conventional shopping centre – with a cinema, busy food court, even a gym – but everything’s reduced. The big-name draws are M&S, Clarks, Next and Gap, but specialist stores, including Antler, Tefal and ProCook, more than justify a targeted between-meetings raid for that coveted bit of kit. Events include food and craft markets and chocolate trails at Easter. (The Quays, Salford, +44 161 848 1850;


EAT AT … BACKSTAGE A stylish caff for cast and crew, Penelope’s Kitchen is tucked into the guts of MediaCityUK but open to all-comers – as long as they don’t take pictures. Robust lunches, including chilli bowls, falafel and halloumi kebabs, are served in takeaway boxes and eaten at communal tables. For afters: foosball. (The Pie Factory, 101 Broadway, +44 7866 166 798; ELEVATED Indie of ambition Damson has great views of the campus (and the big screen) from its first floor dining room, but what’s on the plate also commands attention. Local suppliers get their day in the sun in modern European dishes such as sea bass tartare with Ashcroft’s beetroot, and the wine list does them justice. (Orange Building, +44 161 751 7020;


Clockwise, from top left, Penelope’s Kickin’ Chicken salad, the Hip Hop Chip Shop’s boombox trailer, and their Meat Junkie meal, Love Conquers All’s rustic decor, one of Damson’s delicious dishes and its kooky dining room.

STREET Good-humoured, The Hip Hop Chip Shop’s street food trailer is in residence until the end of June, adding beats and batter to The Greenhouse plaza. Customers are welcome to eat their Feastie Boys or Ms Fat Butty boxes, featuring sustainable fish and triple cooked chips, in the shelter of nearby bar Love Conquers All. (Outside The Greenhouse, Broadway, +44 754 958 4695; LAID-BACK Charming Pokusevski’s pulses during the lunchtime rush, but each scrubbed table also acts as a desk-from-desk and after-work winddown station for local media bods in no hurry to catch the tram home. Tapas, pizza and beer on tap makes for a relaxed atmosphere, and the coffee’s not bad either. (Unit 2, Bridge House, MediaCityUK, +44 161 713 3749;

Conquers All, WHEELY GOOD At Love e service, free revolveMCR offer a full bik price of a lights and hot drink for the com basic service. revolvemcr.


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SLEEP AT ... QUIRKY Stuffed with design detail, the King Street Townhouse, a short hop away in Manchester, feels like a cosy tearoom – with beds. The infinity pool on the seventh floor offers the city’s most sought-after dip. The hotel team also run the private members’ lounge and screening room, On The 7th, at MediaCityUK. Rooms from £180. (10 Booth Street, Manchester, +44 161 667 0707;

SPORTY Not far from MediaCityUK, overlooking Old Trafford, Hotel Football is headed by the stars of Manchester United’s “class of ’92”. Guests can appreciate sleek retro design and tasteful nods to the beautiful game, and a Café Football menu masterminded by Michael Wignall. There’s Sky Sports in every bedroom too. Rooms from £76. (99 Sir Matt Busby Way, Manchester, +44 161 751 0430; GREAT VALUE On the border between Manchester and Salford, The Ainscow occupies the once-neglected Brown Brothers building, a landmark in the regenerating Chapel Street area. Guest rooms are fitted into the quirks of the space and come at a keen price for the style. If the sun’s out, head to the roof terrace. Rooms from £71. (Trinity Way, Salford, +44 161 827 1650;

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From top, teatime at King Street Townhouse, room with a view at Hilton Deansgate, Hotel Football overlooking Old Trafford and a cosy corner on The Ainscow’s roof terrace.

SOARING The emblem of new Manchester, Beetham Tower is the city’s highest building: the views from the Hilton Manchester Deansgate, which part-occupies the tower, make this Hilton thrillingly unique. Catch the express lift for a champagne breakfast at Cloud 23, where table 79 offers a spectacular outlook. Rooms from £199. (Beetham Tower, 303 Deansgate, +44 161 870 1600;

Downtime at ... EXHIBITION Housed in Daniel Libeskind’s dramatic building, Imperial War Museum North has a sobering permanent exhibition and a series of cleverly curated temporary shows. Current exhibition Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style explores how fashion adapted during the privations of 1940s Britain. (The Quays, Trafford Wharf Road, +44 161 836 4000;

TOURS It takes a bit of advance planning, but apply for tickets to be in the audience or tour the BBC Studios and you’ll be at the heart of what happens at MediaCityUK. Tours include the opportunity to make your own news and weather bulletin, while tickets are available for TV and radio shows and the BBC Philharmonic Studio. (

ART They called it The Lowry for a reason; the arts centre houses an extensive collection of LS Lowry’s work, from the stalk-like figures for which he was best known, to his more difficult and complex portraits. A short film explores his life, inspiration and the challenges of the defining relationship of his life – with his mother. (Pier 8, Salford Quays, +44 843 208 6000;

FOOD The Lowry Outlet Food Festival (June 24-26) takes over the plaza. Guests this year include Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain and spicy saucemaker Levi Roots, both giving demonstrations. There will also be appearances by local chefs, a live music stage, a plethora of stalls and a kids’ cookery zone. (The Quays, Salford, +44 161 848 1850;


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Above, work, rest or play outside MediaCity UK; sun catches the facade of The Lowry, right, in Salford.

Play at … LAUGHABLE Alongside theatre, The Lowry has another life as a comedy venue, attracting touring talent to its contemporary spaces. In June, it will host Edinburgh award-winners Max and Ivan: The End, Sophie Willan talking about life in care, and James Veitch, who spent an enlightening year responding to scam emails. (Pier 8, Salford Quays, +44 843 208 6000;

thern supermarket Booths FREE BITES Much-admired Nor wine and locally sourced food runs free weekend tastings of UK store. at its next-generation MediaCity

FRESH In summer, The Shack sets up outside at MediaCityUK and things shift into a more relaxed gear. Customers have deck chairs, bean bags and blankets at their disposal, with Jamaican-style food and craft beer and fruit slush to drink. This month, soccer’s Euro 2016 will be the focus of (hopefully) sun-drenched attention. 114 |



POPULAR The area’s cherished pub, The Dockyard, offers monthly live music and Reboot, a funk, soul and disco DJ night (June 18). The lively house pub quiz will have two outings this month, both as part of a giant cross-city event for Manchester Beer Week (June 10-19) and in its regular slot on June 21. (DockHouse, + 44 161 713 3810;



Welcome to Jaguar as you’ve never seen it before. Now you can enjoy the dramatic drive and beauty Jaguar is renowned for, with added practicality. Inspired by F-TYPE, its powerful, muscular looks give the All-New F-PACE a head-turning road presence. And it delivers the connected steering feel and sharp, responsive handling of a sports car too, thanks to its aluminium double wishbone front and Integral Link rear suspension. A master of sporting performance and everyday practicality, F-PACE raises the game.

Official fuel consumption figures for the F-PACE in l/100km: Urban 5.7 – 12.2, Extra urban 4.5 – 7.1, Combined 4.9 – 8.9. CO2 emissions g/km: 129 – 209. Drive responsibly on and off-road.


CAREER GOLD I was lucky enough to win the Irish Derby in 2012 and 2014 on the champion three-year-olds and dual Derby winners Camelot and Australia. In addition to the Dubai Duty Free Irish Derby Festival (June 24-26), another great racing weekend is the recently introduced Longines Irish Champions Weekend at Leopardstown and the Curragh (September 10-11), where the best horses from all over Europe travel to compete at the highest level. These two weekends are some of the most exciting racing festivals to be found anywhere in the world.


Former champion jockey Joseph O’Brien, 22, gives us a slice of his new career as a racehorse trainer.

6am I usually have a cup of coffee before going out into the yard to tack up. I’m typically walking around the barn with the other horses shortly after 7am and then we take them through their daily exercise routine up until around 8.30am. If it’s a work morning – as in a serious gallop rather than a routine canter – I could ride three or four horses before running back into the house for a quick breakfast, if I’ve time. I’ve been doing these early starts for years and have no idea how old I was when I first got on a horse – probably a few weeks’ old. I was born into this environment. My mum and dad [Anne-Marie and Aidan O’Brien] were champion trainers; it’s our way of life. 9am I like to be driving out of Ballydoyle around this time to make the 30-minute journey to our yard at Owning Hill in Co Kilkenny. There I look after a mixture of National Hunt and Flat horses and take them through their daily exercise routines. Declaration time is 10am for the next day’s racing so I go through any declarations we might have, check ground conditions and declare jockeys. Noon Entries close at around noon, five days before each race meeting, so I go through what horses we want to enter for the weekend and the following week. We also might have one or two for schooling over hurdles or fences, or a few two-year-olds to put through 116 |


starting stalls. I’ll have a look at the horses before they leave to go racing. And if I am racing THE I would aim to be there RACES about one hour before Tickets to the Dubai our first runner to walk Duty Free Irish Derby the track, tack up our runners and meet the taking place on June 25 at owners and jockeys. The Curragh racecourse

are available to buy

3pm I have lunch pretty at late and it’s usually just a quick 15 minutes – I’ll have a cup of tea and a sandwich. Last year I would’ve been very restricted dietwise but as a trainer life is much easier mentally and physically. 6pm I usually get home from racing between 6pm and 7pm, depending on where the racing is and how many runners we have. If it’s Dundalk we would not get home until around 11.30pm, as the last race is usually 9pm. But generally I’m in bed by 10pm – after watching Netflix! I have just finished watching Peaky Blinders, which is awesome, and a series called Power that’s really good. But I can’t stay up too late as I’ve always an early start. We have horses running all the time, three or four days a week. We’ve had multiple winners this year. The horses are running well and they’re healthy and long may that last. My job is seven days a week but we usually go on holiday for a week in November – that’s my next day off! But I love what I do.

From above, Peaky Blinders, a fun distraction when it’s time to relax for the evening; race day excitement at The Curragh; fetlocks flowing.

IF YOU’RE AT THE CURRAGH ... The National Stud in Co Kildare is a lovely place to visit and gives a great insight into Ireland’s racing heritage.

Creating links M&A corporate deals

Leanort Limited

Cairn Homes

Eversheds acted for Venn Life Sciences in the acquisition of Kinesis Pharma BV.

Eversheds advised the owners of the Xtratherm Group on its recent successful sale to Unilin B.V.

Eversheds advised Cairn Homes on its €105m acquisition of Argentum Property.

Musgrave Group

Cairn Homes

Tetrarch Capital

Eversheds advised Musgrave on its acquisition of the foodservice business, Allied Foods Limited.

Eversheds advised Cairn Homes, on their acquisition, in conjunction with Lone Star, of Project Clear, a Dublin-based loans portfolio worth €503m.

Eversheds has acted for Tetrarch on a number of hotel acquisitions such as Citywest Hotel, Conference & Event Centre, Dawson Hotel, Killashee Hotel, Mount Juliet Hotel and Mount Wolseley Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort.

Payzone Group


System Dynamics Group

Eversheds advised Payzone Group on the sale of the entire issued share capital of Payzone Ireland Limited to Semeral Limited.

Eversheds advised Huawei on the acquisition of the telecoms software and technology business of Amartus.

Eversheds represented System Dynamics Group in the sale of System Dynamics to Deloitte.

Venn Life Sciences Holdings Plc

Gerard Ryan Partner, Head of Corporate & Commercial +353 1 6644 202 ©Eversheds Ireland is a member of Eversheds International Limited.



EVENT An intensive reboot for senior leaders and business owners, Below the Line’s Executive Leadership Retreat (June 20-22; btleadership. com) aims to help business folk tap into their potential and get creative juices flowing. Best of all, it takes place in Delphi Valley in Leenane, Co Galway, a destination sure to inspire.


ACCESSORY With secure compartments for laptops, cameras and tablets, and a sturdy water-repellent exterior, Lowepro’s streetwear-inspired collection StreetLine (prices start from $99, is the ideal carry-on for short-haul trips. Perfect for the urban explorer.



STAY “Work hard and play hard” should be the motto of Dubrovnik’s three-star Hotel Lero (14 Ul. Iva Vojnovica), ´ a stroll away from scenic Bellevue Beach and a 20-minute walk to the city’s historic centre. Free Wi-Fi and spacious rooms with sea views are par for the course and the hotel can even organise a bespoke tour of the city if you want to impress your clients. For great holiday packages, visit

TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes selects go-to gadgets, executive events and best stays.

4 5 118 |

EVENT Inspirefest (Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Dublin, June 30 to July 2; is back with the latest views on technology, science, design and the arts. This year’s line-up includes Jules Coleman, co-founder of; equality advocate Sinead Burke and Judith Williams, global head of diversity at Dropbox.

APP CityButler city guides are packed with handpicked recommendations of hotels, restaurants, shops and more but the app’s star feature is that you can use it to book anything, from local SIM cards to transport or anything else you might need during your stay. Pretty handy. Download for free in the App Store or try the desktop version at




BOOK Already a bestseller, former senior advisor for innovation to Hillary Clinton, Alec Ross has penned The Industries of the Future (Simon & Schuster) an engrossing guide to what’s next for the world, ranging from robots to cybersecurity, the next Silicon Valley and the trends that will emerge in the next ten years. A must-read for businesspeople across all sectors.


GADGET Salt water-safe and dust proof, the Sony WS413 Walkman (4GB from €99/8GB from €119; will survive the elements on your travels – even laps of the pool after a tough day of meetings. Wireless and with a secure fit, there’s no need to worry about it slipping while you work out.

CHECK IN Planning a summer event in London? Check out the Park Plaza County Hall (1 Addington Street, +44 844 415 6760; As well as the Executive Lounge for working on the go, the Urban Terrace is open for BBQs and informal corporate events until September.

Building tomorrow’s infrastructure for our global clients Dornan is an Irish owned, International engineering and contracting company, specialising in the provision of; · Mechanical · Electrical · Instrumentation Services We have extensive experience across a wide range of construction sectors. Our growth is primarily driven by repeat business from our clients, demonstrating their confidence in Dornan to deliver projects where Safety and Quality are the priority.

Visit us on Interested in being part of our winning team:

Business Hotel


Lauren Heskin samples the sweet life at The First Luxury Art Hotel in Rome. WHAT & WHERE Located in the city’s most desirable neighbourhood, Campo Marzio, The First Luxury Art Hotel merges history with simple sophistication, just steps from Rome’s must-see monuments. (Via del Vantaggio, +39 06 4561 7070; THE BUSINESS From its 19thcentury foundation, The First has been revamped into an artistic sanctuary that fuses luxurious hospitality with the neighbourhood’s architectural charm. Each of the rooms have been individually curated by contemporary Italian artists, with hand-selected wall art, furnishings and fabrics to give every space a sense of warmth and personality, while floorto-ceiling marble bathrooms, slick TVs and iPad/iPod docking stations give rooms a contemporary sheen. Only two streets in from the weaving Tiber River, the locale is also home to some of Rome’s finest boutiques and most quintessential cafés. Take to the hotel’s panoramic rooftop patio and bar to watch the sun set over the city’s magnificent skyline as the daily tourist humdrum recedes into cool, calm night. Rooms from €465.

DOWNTIME Simply walking in Rome is a history lesson in itself, with ancient structures, museums and preserved artwork on every street. Campo Marzio is home to the Aurelian northern city gates at Piazza del Popolo, and includes the Mausoleum of Augustus Caesar, Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo, the Spanish Steps and Castel Sant’Angelo within its boundaries. It is also within a 15-minute walk of the Pantheon. If you need to rest your feet, pick a café on a hectic street and watch the fashion-forward locals breeze by, or pack a picnic and head for Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome’s largest public park with panoramic views over the city.


Don’t have time to visit Rome’s sites during the day, or simply can’t stick the heat and the crowds? The Vatican Museums open their doors every Friday night from May to October (except for August), while a live orchestra performs musical masterpieces to accompany you around the Sistine Chapel, the Pontifical Villas and all the Vatican’s treasures. A rite of passage for Romans before security got tight, you can now legally sneak into the Colosseum under cover of dark with guided tours on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. 120 |


DINNER BUZZ Its wine list full of surprises, a casual yet comfortable atmosphere – and location just around the corner from the First Luxury Art Hotel – Ristorante Ad Hoc is a cool spot to unwind with colleagues and clients after hours. With plenty of Roman flamboyancy on display – minus the kitsch – Ad Hoc’s kitchen creates a perfect taste of Italy and, as clichéd as it may sound, the tiramisu is an absolute must. (Via di Ripetta, +39 06 323 3040,

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Rome 12 times per week. Guests travelling from Rome can travel onwards to New York, Boston, Chicago or Los Angeles, with the benefit of pre-clearance of US customs and border protection at Dublin airport.




Take your brain for a walk or a swim Every single day presents challenges and I have learnt that I come up with the best solutions away from my desk. So take your brain for a walk; give yourself some time to think of solutions in a different environment. I swim with the Aer Lingus Masters Swimming Club and some of my best ideas come when I’m ploughing up and down the pool. Then all I need is a waterproof pen and paper!



Stick to the knitting Sometimes saying “no” is the right decision. Looking at new opportunities is really important but so too is keeping a focus on the core company goals. We got distracted at times over the last five years by looking for the “next big thing”. Those distractions cost time and money and consume valuable resources.

PAUL HACKETT is the CEO and co-founder of, Ireland’s fastest growing travel company, which also powers Holidays with Aer Lingus, the Aer Lingus holidays brand. Founded in 2010, the company employs 35 staff in its office in Dublin.


Build partnerships When we started the business back in 2010 we identified INM [the media group] and Aer Lingus as key partners to the business. We worked hard at building both the commercial and personal relationships. In 2011 we set up the holidays programme for Aer Lingus under the brand Holidays with Aer Lingus; we retained the tender for that brand in 2014. In 2013, INM invested in our business and they now own 30 per cent. Focusing on those two key partnerships has proved successful for the business.

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It takes longer than you think When we started in 2010, we assumed that we’d break even in two years and sell 10,000 holidays in year one. That didn’t happen and it didn’t happen in 2011 or 2012 either. It was 2013 before we broke even and it was that same year that the brand started to become recognised. So even though we were part of the High Potential Start-Up programme with Enterprise Ireland, it still took way longer than we expected to get that breakthrough for the business and the brand.


Take a holiday You’d expect me to say this given that I run a holiday company, but I take my holidays and I encourage all my team to do likewise. We all work longer days, given our connectedness, so time off and downtime are really important.



High challenge – high support We’ve got an ethos in the business of “high challenge – high support”. This means we are demanding in terms of the pace of work, standards and results but we’re also very good in terms of providing the resources to achieve our objectives. This carries over to when anyone has something going on outside of work; we do all we can to provide as much care, support and back-up where we can and where it’s appropriate.

DESTINATION Barcelona has to be top of my list of cities for doing business. You can work all day and then get to enjoy the city in the evening. It’s got a great mix of city and beach and the sun shines for more than 300 days of the year.

SLEEP AT The four-star Axel Hotel & Urban Spa is a fun hotel with a nice pool and spa. It’s only a short walk to Plaça Catalunya and Las Ramblas. In the immediate area there are plenty of restaurants and bars, and the metro is just a short walk from the hotel. or

EAT AT Disfrutar from the team who worked at elBulli. It’s located in front of the Ninot Market in Eixample, a short walk from the Axel. It opened in December 2015 and has won awards for its food and interior design, both of which are stunning.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily, and from Cork four times per week.

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Make your next vacation in Ireland extraordinary in a Unique Holiday Home Experience exclusive luxury self-catering breaks in beautiful private homes.

www.unique irish

A GUIDED TOUR THROUGH 10,000 YEARS OF IRISH HISTORY Celtic Gods will take you on a journey from 8,000 BC to present day in Ireland’s only cinematic theatre. Experience their cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes. Opposite Hop on/off Bus Stop Smithfield, Dublin 7

E: T: +353 (0) 1 873 3537

Open from 10:30 - 7:00pm with Shows Every Hour. Duration 60 Minutes


2 nder a l o Zo AGE 131 S EE P

Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 144 Our Route Networks 148 Connecting to Wi-Fi

Inight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand AERLINGUS.COM |

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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland! What cities do Aer Lingus fly to Fáilte Welcome and connect to? Dia dhuit Hello See page 144 for full route maps Slán go fóill Goodbye ainm dom My name is... Conas atá tú? How are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

126 |


In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?

   

Is your seatback fully upright? Is your armrest down? Is your tabletop stowed? Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.


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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Your comfort and safety

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.


Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-


For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

not remov

e from Aircra

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do



Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

128 |


Airplane Mode

not remov

e from Aircra


Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane



In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky! Action

Gods of Egypt

Action Deadpool 106 mins



Dad‘s Army




127 mins Rival gods compete in an epic battle to save Egypt. Stars Gerard Butler, Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, Brenton Thwaites

100 mins A platoon deal with a new journalist and a German spy. Stars Catherine Zeta-Jones, Toby Jones, Bill Nighy

124 mins A retired orchestra conductor receives a great invitation. Stars Michael Caine, Harvey Keitel, Rachel Weisz






Wade Wilson is a former Special Forces operative who now works as a mercenary. His world comes crashing down when evil scientist Ajax tortures, disfigures and transforms him into Deadpool. Deadpool uses his new skills to hunt down the man who nearly destroyed his life. Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin and Ed Skrein.




Peggy Guggenheim: Art Addict



96 mins A portrait of a patron of the arts extraordinaire. Stars Peggy Guggenheim, Marina Abramovic EN


45 Years


93 mins A letter from the past shadows a wedding anniversary. Stars Charlotte Rampling, Tom Courtenay, Geraldine James

Eddie The Eagle


105 mins Eddie‘s journey to become Britain’s first Olympic ski-jumper. Stars Hugh Jackman, Christopher Walken



Kids G



Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.




117 mins A mother and son‘s last hope of escaping their kidnapper. Stars Brie Larson, William H Macy, Joan Allen EN FR DE ES CCEN

130 |

Pride and Prejudice and Zombies


108 mins The quest of love through an outbreak of a deadly virus. Stars Lily James, Lena Headey EN FR IT ES CCEN


The 5th Wave


El Americano: The Movie


Kung Fu Panda 3

113 mins The tale of a brave woman who faces extraterrestrials. Stars Chloë Grace Moretz, Liev Schreiber, Maika Monroe

98 mins Cuco sets off on an adventure to defend his family. Stars Edward James Olmos, Rico Rodriguez

85 mins Po must face two hugely epic, but different threats. Stars Jack Black, Bryan Cranston, Lucy Liu






Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!


Comedy Zoolander 2 102 mins


Former models Derek Zoolander and Hansel find themselves thrust back into the spotlight after living in seclusion for years. Invited to a major fashion event in Rome, the estranged friends are surprised to see how much the business has changed. Derek and Hansel are lured back into modeling again, in Rome, where they find themselves the target of a sinister conspiracy. Stars Ben Stiller, Penelope Cruz and Owen Wilson EN FR DE IT ES



Jane Got a Gun


London has Fallen


Triple 9


97 mins A woman tries to save her husband from a murderous gang. Stars Natalie Portman, Ewan McGregor, Joel Edgerton

99 mins There is a plot to kill the world's most powerful leaders. Stars Gerard Butler, Morgan Freeman, Aaron Eckhart

115 mins A gang of criminals and a bunch of corrupt cops plan a murder and a heist. Stars Casey Affleck, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Anthony Mackie





A Perfect Day


Hail Caesar!


How to be Single


106 mins A group of aid workers work to resolve a crisis. Stars Benicio Del Toro, Tim Robbins, Olga Kurylenko

106 mins The life of a studio fixer in Hollywood’s Golden Age. Stars Josh Brolin, George Clooney, Scarlett Johansson

109 mins New York is full of lonely hearts seeking the right match. Stars Rebel Wilson, Alison Brie, Dakota Johnson




Kids G



Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.


The Choice


110 mins A relationship that is tested by life‘s defining events. Stars Benjamin Walker, Teresa Palmer, Maggie Grace EN FR DE ES

The Dressmaker 118 mins A glamorous woman returns to her small town in Australia. Stars Kate Winslet, Liam Hemsworth EN FR DE


The Runner


89 mins A congressman has personal and professional troubles. Stars Nicolas Cage, Sarah Paulson, Connie Nielsen EN DE

Alvin and the Chipmunks: The Road Chip


92 mins Chipmunks fear the future as Dave contemplates marriage. Stars Jason Lee EN FR



108 mins The animals must work together to uncover a conspiracy. Stars Jason Bateman, Ginnifer Goodwin, Idris Elba


Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English



| 131

We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Michael Collins and Raging Bull are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection


119 mins Stars Michael Keaton, Zach Galifianakis, Edward Norton




Bride Wars



Kiss Kiss, Bang Bang

96 mins Stars Ellen Page, Michael Cera, Jennifer Garner, Jason Bateman

103 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Val Kilmer



The Book Thief


89 mins Stars Kate Hudson, Anne Hathaway, Candice Bergen


131 mins Stars Geoffrey Rush, Emily Watson EN FR DE IT ES

The Departed


146 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Ray Liotta, Joe Pesci, Lorraine Bracco




Love & Other Drugs



The Heat



112 mins Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Anne Hathaway


Gran Torino

116 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Bee Vang, Christopher Carley, Ahney Her

151 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Matt Damon

117 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Demián Bichir




Michael Collins

Horrible Bosses


98 mins Stars Jason Bateman, Kevin Spacey EN FR DE IT ES


Raging Bull


133 mins Stars Liam Neeson, Julia Roberts

129 mins Stars Robert De Niro, Cathy Moriarty, Joe Pesci, Frank Vincent



The Hobbit: Desolation of Smaug


161 mins Stars Martin Freeman

The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies




Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs


Jimmy’s Hall


101 mins Stars Will Smith, Alice Braga, Charlie Tahan

94 mins Stars Simon Pegg, Queen Latifah

109 mins Stars Barry Ward, Simone Kirby, Andrew Scott






91 mins Stars Paula Abdul, Halle Berry, Lucille Bliss, Terry Bradshaw EN FR DE IT ES

144 mins Stars Ian McKellen


I Am Legend

The Rocker

102 mins Stars Christina Applegate, Rainn Wilson


107 mins Stars Cillian Murphy, Michelle Yeoh, Troy Garity, Rose Byrne




The Wolf of Wall Street


Mr. Yeats PG13 and the Beastly Coins

The Girl with the Mechanical Maiden

113mins Stars Robert DeNiro, Jodie Foster, Sybil Shepard




180 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Margot Robbie


Taxi Driver

Wedding Crashers


119 mins Stars Owen Wilson, Vince Vaughn EN FR DE IT ES

Irish Shorts and Features

A Terrible Hullabaloo


An Bronntanas


9 mins Stars Sean Fitzgerald

110 mins Stars Michelle Beamish, Charlotte Bradley



132 |


Cloudlands 10 mins



Granite and Chalk


I Am Jesus


12 mins Stars Aoife Duffin, Liam Carney

7 mins Stars Steve Wilson, Paul Buckland, Joseph Moylan



12 mins Stars Moe Dunford, Donal Courtney EN


You‘re Ugly Too


15 mins Stars Dominic West

81 mins Stars Aidan Gillen, Lauren Kinsella, Simon McQuaid



Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business

Studio 1.0

This month Bloomberg‘s Inside, investigates Chevron and its global business. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with Dropbox‘s CEO and co-founder Drew Houston and Cities And Climate Change which gives an exclusive talk with OECD Secretary-General Angel Gurria and UN Special Envoy for Cities and Climate Change. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Urban Visions – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.



Sugar Crash

Crossroads is a documentary series that revels in folksy transports and the spirit that lives within them. Also available on board are How Do They Do it?, which looks into how screws, marmalade and printed dresses are made, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World heritage, which features Mount Fuji and its transition from a spiritual journey to an adventure sport attraction. For more on Ireland and Irish culture tune into Sugar Crash, that looks into Ireland's sugar habits and Men In Black, that follows the highs and lows of life as a man behind the whistle.



Cook, Eat, Burn

Step into the world of food with American Food Battle and Made In Italy with Silvia Colloca. Find out the secrets behind the Inuit tribe‘s customary dish. For tips on improving your health watch Cook, Eat, Burn where Donal Skehan shares healthy recipes and embarks on adventure sports. For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst City Chic documents certain cities and their culture, art and fashion – this week focuses on London.


As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, Treme and The Walking Dead on offer, as well as episodes from the highly acclaimed series, The Wire and new episodes of, Gotham, The Sopranos and Bones. Silicon Valley

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culturedefining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of Wilfred. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and Last Man Standing.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.



Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Countdown to Rio, which takes a look at everything that you need to know about the Olympic Games. Also on board are Maradonna (a mustwatch for football fans!), The Contenders and HSBC: Golfing World 2016, for everything golf-related.

KC Undercover

Kids will surely enjoy KC Undercover, as KC tries to convince her parents that her brother, Ernie, is ready to become a spy. Kids may also enjoy charming animated series Flip Flap or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island, Randy Cunningham: 9th Grade Ninja or Learn To Draw.


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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

True Detective SEASON 2 The second season of True Detective began airing in June 2015 on the HBO network. Season two comprises eight episodes and there are a lot of big names in this season’s cast, with a principal cast of Colin Farrell, Rachel McAdams, Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitsch and Kelly Reilly. Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, a compromised detective in the all-industrial City of Vinci, LA County. Vince Vaughn plays Frank Semyon, a criminal and

entrepreneur in danger of losing his life’s work, while his wife and closest ally (Kelly Reilly), struggles with his choices and her own. Rachel McAdams is Ani Bezzerides, a Ventura County Sheriff’s detective often at odds with the system she serves, while Taylor Kitsch plays Paul Woodrugh, a war veteran and motorcycle cop. Season two takes place in California and follows the interweaving stories of the

officers from three cooperating police departments. A bizarre murder brings together three law-enforcement officers and a career criminal, each of whom must navigate a web of conspiracy and betrayal. Ultimately season 2 of True Detective offers immense drama as we see a joining of three law enforcement groups, multiple criminal collusions, and billions of dollars.

True Detective is a gritty American anthology crime drama television series created by Nic Pizzolatto

Treme SEASON 4 Treme was created by David Simon, creator of The Wire and Generation Kill and Eric Overmyer, writer-producer of Homicide and Law & Order.

Pierce, Khandi Alexander, Rob Brown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens, Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli, Michiel Huisman, David Morse, India Ennenga and Jon Seda.

the ability of whether the police department can keep up with the rise in crime is questionable. What keeps the city afloat through all of this is its culture.

Treme is set in post-Katrina New Orleans and documents the struggles of a diverse group of residents as they rebuild their lives and their city.

The story consists of a diverse group of residents struggling to rebuild New Orleans in the months following Hurricane Katrina.

Treme takes its title from the name of one of the city‘s oldest neighbourhoods, a historically important source of African-American music and culture. The large cast of Treme includes Wendell

Life in New Orleans is getting better, but it‘s not happening fast enough to keep residents from wondering whether things would be easier or better elsewhere. Crime is on the rise in New Orleans and

Mardi Gras Indian chief Albert Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) is sewing in preparation for Mardi Gras. The social aid and pleasure clubs are getting ready to hit the streets in their colourful, fast step finery. And those loveable rogues, Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) and Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) have cooked up a new set of schemes on and off the bandstand.

Treme depicts the struggles of New Orleans residents rebuilding their lives post-Katrina

The Walking Dead SEASON 6 The Walking Dead is an American horror–drama television series. The sixth season premiered on in October 2015 comprising of 16 episodes. Season six was developed for television by Frank Darabont. It is based on the eponymous series of comic books by Robert Kirkman, Tony Moore, and Charlie Adlard. In the first part of the season we see Rick and his group leading the Alexandria community through a series of crises.

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These include the threat of a large herd of walkers and an attack by dangerous scavengers known as the Wolves.

In this new reality, there are new dangers, new opportunities and new complexities to face.

The second half of season 6 involves Rick and his companions discovering more survivor communities. They make allies of the agrarian Hilltop colony and adversaries of the Saviours, which are led by the ruthless Negan.

To claim their place in this newfound landscape, the group must become the threat themselves. This means becoming as terrifying as any of the adversaries they've encountered.

With no hope of safety in Alexandria, Rick and his band of survivors soon discover a larger world beyond what they understood it to be.

Season six is notable for introducing some eminent comic characters such as Heath, Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight, Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory, and Negan.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE The Walking Dead is a TV series which follows a group trying to survive a zombie apocalypse

Radio On Demand On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.



S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One. Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences. Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a trackby-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!



Blue of the Night

Fitzpatrick Hotels

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse Broadcast

The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning centuries, genres and soundscapes. Presented by Carl Corcoran.

An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.

A traditional music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now. Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!

Pop Charts

Louise McSharry All your future favourites in one place, from hip hop to rock and roll. Presented by Louise McSharry.



Happy Days

Irish Poetry Corner

Join Emma O’Driscoll for a fun packed show with stories, songs and fun games.

Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets.



The Eoghan McDermott Show

Radio Nova: Marty Miller

Above average radio… pop culture, cranial acrobatics and he’ll even throw in the odd song.

60 minutes of great guitar music on board your Aer Lingus flight today. Presented by Marty Miller.

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Cooper & Luke – The Big Breakfast 98fm Join Copper and Luke on board your Aer Lingus flight for music and fun.

Pop Charts features the most up-to-the-minute pop hits! Listen to songs by Omi and Kodaline.


Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

In 1975, Fran O’Toole was killed in the Miami Showband Massacre. In 1968, Mick Meaney dreamed of breaking the world record for being buried alive.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Kodaline, Van Morrison, Paddy Casey, Boyzone, Hozier, The Script, HomeTown, Westlife, Sinéad O‘Connor, Bressie and Christy Moore.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.


Annie Lennox

Annie Lennox Diva Iggy Pop Arista Heritage Series: Iggy Pop Leonard Cohen I‘m Your Man Mott the Hoople All the Young Dudes (Legacy Edition) E L EC T R O

ZHU & AlunaGeorge

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Galleon So I begin Saint Etienne Smash The System Singles 1990–99 ZHU & AlunaGeorge Genesis Series OPER A

Paul Potts

Leonard Bernstein West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Puccini Il Tabarro Verdi Opera’s Greatest Duets


Pink Floyd

Boots Aquaria Foo Fighters Saint Cecilia Natalie Press Side by Side Patti Smith Horses Pink Floyd Pulse (Live) The Strokes Is This It IRISH

Hermitage Green

Damien Dempsey The Rocky Road Hermitage Green Save Your Soul Kodaline Coming Up for Air Kodaline In a Perfect World Van Morrison Inarticulate Speech of the Heart POP


Fleur East Love, Sax and Flashbacks Kloe Teenage Craze Rachel Platten Wildfire Zayn Mind of Mine (Deluxe Edition)


Khatia Buniatishvili

Khatia Buniatishvili Kaleidoscope Denis Matsuev Encores Mariss Jansons & Wiener Philharmoniker New Year‘s Concert 2016 JA Z Z

Jaco Pastorius

Jaco Pastorius Jaco (Original Soundtrack) Miles Davis The Bootleg Series, Vol 3: Miles At the Fillmore 1970 Thelonious Monk The Complete Columbia Live Albums Collection Stacey Kent Tenderly RNB

Yo Gotti

Chris Brown Royalty John Legend Love in the Future Kid Ink Summer in the Winter Stevie Wonder A Time 2 Love Yo Gotti The Art of Hustle (Deluxe Version)


Loretta Lynn

Blake Shelton Reloaded: 20 #1 Hits Dolly Parton Just because I‘m a Woman Loretta Lynn Full Circle Old Dominion Meat and Candy M E TA L


Bring Me the Horizon That’s the Spirit Bullet for My Valentine Fever Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Yashin The Renegades ROCK

Jeff Buckley

Cage the Elephant Tell Me I‘m Pretty David Bowie Blackstar Jeff Buckley You and I Jacob Whitesides Faces on Film Kings of Leon Only By The Night AERLINGUS.COM |

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT


Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.



GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections Which Terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening

You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure Lounge

Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

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Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon


Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle




Portland OR


Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver



San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo

Des Moines

St Louis

Louisville Nashville


Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Fort Wayne Chicago


Las Vegas

Memphis Little Rock



Detroit Cleveland

Indianapolis Wichita


Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids


St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Akron Canton






Columbus Harrisburg



Burlington Syracuse


Washington (Dulles)


Portland ME

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Washington (National)





Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

Savannah Austin


San Antonio

New Orleans


Orlando Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 144 |


San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.


Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow




Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Isle of Man




Shannon Kerry







London (Heathrow) Bristol


London (Gatwick)






Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey


Stuttgart Vienna





Nantes Geneva




Santiago de Compostela








Montpellier Perpignan

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa



Dubrovnik Rome



Madrid Corfu


Lisbon Alicante Murcia




Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!


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Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit for more information.



London Heathrow



Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore


Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney


Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

3 Purchase Internet Access

2 Aeromobile

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

3 Welcome SMS

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.

6 Connected

** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 148 |


You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER NE W ES LO R I C P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.


CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Mr. Tom Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere and has been in business for over 55 years, selling a wide range of classic cashmere in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As we are celebrating our 55th year Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents ( terms and conditions apply)

M Monaghan’s Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

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Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

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best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

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McCormacks Celtic Jewellers This beautiful silver pendant by Irish Designer Mags Harnett, is symbolic of so many Irish people who have Harnett emigrated from Ireland. She has used the lettering from the Book of Kells to inscribe a line from a poem by John Locke “But “ the heart will sigh for the absent land.” The pendant is available exclusively in Mc Cormacks Jewellers, a family owned store for over half a century, centrally located on Grafton Street.

A treasure trove of Irish Celtic Jewellery

51 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 00353-1-6773737


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Page 1

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012


ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.


ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person. • • • •


Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email:




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SPORTS LUXE The perfect gym buddy, this Adidas Questra Mid-Alarm Chronograph watch has scratchresistant glass, a tough outer casing and a stopwatch for the ultimate performance piece.


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How Mammal screenwriter Glenn Montgomery shone at this year’s Sundance Film Festival. s a screenwriter, having a film premiere at the Sundance Film Festival is one of those pinch-me moments – an actual dream come true. My second feature film Mammal – co-written and directed by my great friend Rebecca Daly – was bestowed just that honour earlier this year at the 2016 festival in Park City, Utah. So it was that I got to realise another dream, long nurtured since my teenage self began staging plays in the parish hall of a small Northern Irish town – I finally packed my bags and with my husband Leonard in tow headed to LA, our first stop on what was to be an incredible two-week adventure. And the place I’m pretty sure most, if not every, filmmaker hopes to land some day. The sunny warmth of LA provided a most welcome escape from January in Ireland. Determined not to let a little thing like jet lag get in the way, we headed out and immediately fell in love with the city and its rhythms. We stayed in an apartment just off Hollywood Boulevard, a truly splendid thoroughfare of distressed glamour. But to really see LA you have to drive, so drive we did. Well Leonard did, for our safety and that of the good citizens of LA. In our few days we managed to pack in most of the wonders of La La Land – a spin up to the Hollywood sign; driving by the gilded gates of those Beverly Hills mansions; strolling the Malibu beaches; watching the sun set from


Santa Monica pier; dinner in SoHo House where we spotted a few very, very famous patrons; trying to fit our hands into the prints of those stars immortalised in cement outside the former Mann’s Chinese Theatre (now TCL Chinese Theatre) and realising a lot of those movie star hands were eerily small. The best night out was dinner in Pump, the hottest of gay hotspots in West Hollywood. We had the added pleasure of being seated at the table next to Pump’s indomitably fabulous landlady, Lisa Vanderpump. She doesn’t do photographs – unless you catch her en route to the loo. So rather than impede her next dash to the little girl’s room, we took a snap of the back of her head. It will be treasured. After five days we packed up the car – a jeep-type affair – and hit the road to Park City for the main event. We planned to do the 1,000-plus-kilometre trip over two days, to stop and see as much as the road had to offer. A best forgotten overnight in a dodgy motel with scratchy sheets – I found its squalor quite romantic in a seedy way, my Leonard didn’t agree – inspired us to get on the road at sunrise and head into the Nevada desert. The aim was to hit Las Vegas for lunch. It’s true what they say about the light in the desert – its magic is unlike any other. Driving in a straight line, as you do on most American roads, can be boring

“It’s true what they say about the light in the desert – magic unlike any other” 152 |


Top, cast and crew from Mammal at Sundance; Glenn, right, and Leonard living large in The Golden State.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

I’m sure but not on this highway. As we neared the Utah state line, I’d already been struck by the sheer vastness of Nevada with its red-planet-like terrain and random casinos popping up out of the dust like neon oases. But crossing into Utah made me realise that I had never really had my breath taken away before. Not really. Ever. Because breath taking is the only way to describe the landscape in which we now found ourselves. It felt like the edge of the world, another world, in a far-off galaxy. Huge snow-covered blue mountains as far as the eye could see under even bluer skies. No photograph, no words, can do justice to the sheer, immense beauty that is this part of the world. We drove in a state of wonder and awe – another good reason for those very straight roads. The closer we got to Park City the more the snow fell – real snow, not those flurries we get in Ireland. The skiing is great according to Rebecca and her clan. They took to the slopes with gusto. I prefer to live out such physical undertakings in my scripts. Park City is a small enough city. But despite the minus-20 temperatures, it’s one of the warmest and friendliest cities I’ve ever visited. And Sundance is a very laid-back festival. Much too cold for black ties here. Everyone shivers up the red carpet in their snow boots and Canada goose coats. We managed an all-too-brief visit to the beautiful nearby Salt Lake City before the premiere of the film. Which went well. Really well. I hope I’m asked back again some day.




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