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July 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

JACK REYNOR

WISE CRAIC IN HOLLYWOOD

DUBLIN DIARISTS

SNAPSHOTS OF THE CITY

GALWAY CITY • LA COAST • AMSTERDAM • SICILY


OVER 230 YEARS OF STORIES WAITING TO BE EXPLORED. BOOK AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM


CONTENTS JULY 2018

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news 8 ARRIVALS Was that you, at Dublin’s T2?

11 CHECK IN Cool stuff to see, eat, drink and do this July 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary round-up 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Joseph O’Neill opens up 34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins noodles around Nice

90

36 WEEKENDER Amanda Kavanagh meets an elegant Parisian

Sicilian Splendour

38 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SPLIT Jane Foster guides us through the ancient city

FEATURES

40 HE’S ALRIGHT JACK Ross McDonagh sits down with a refereshingly candid Jack Reynor 46 DOCUMENTING DUBLIN Amanda Kavanagh meets the folks keeping tabs on the capital 54 GALWAY WHIRL Alan McMonagle revels in the charm of summer in Galway City 64 ON THE WATERFRONT Conor Creighton gets in touch with his inner West Coast dude 80 ALTERNATIVE AMSTERDAM Manchán Magan discovers a new way of living in the Dutch capital 90 SWEET SICILY Melanie Mullan draws a bead on the largest Mediterranean island

80

New Amsterdam

40 Woke Warrior

REGULARS

99 5 ROLLICKING ROAD TRIPS Melanie Mullan puts in the most magnificent miles

54

Gorgeousness in Galway

BUSINESS

110 BUSINESS & LIFE Megan Hill on doing business in Seattle, with a little help from the mayor

106 48 HOURS IN PHILADELPHIA Krista Connor gets to the heart of things in Independence city

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Do the Huckletree – Andrew Lynch shows us the steps

123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment

118 RIGHT ON TREND Clíona Foley discovers no small amount of pizzazz in Connecticut

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Sculptor Eilis O’Connell recalls a visit to Eileen Gray’s beautifully-restored villa

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Work with Three Ireland’s Cian McDonagh


Alaïa Armani Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Canada Goose Céline Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Huda Beauty Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton M•A•C Manolo Blahnik Moncler NARS Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tiffany & Co Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zegna Ireland’s Most Beautiful Store, The World’s Best Brands, Exceptional Service, A Luxury Destination For Women, Men, Beauty, Home And Gifting.

DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY

brownthomas.com


CARA Magazine July 2018

WELCOME ABOARD Summer is in full swing and with that comes Aer Lingus’ biggest expansion yet – and also a coveted Travellers’ Choice award for Best Business Class. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. Summer 2018 is shaping up to be the busiest on record for Aer Lingus. The holiday season is well and truly upon us now as we operate our busiest summer schedule on record. Summer 2018 will see the return of more than 30 popular European summer sun routes to destinations Murcia, Pula, Pisa, Rennes, Alicante, Faro and Málaga to name but a few. This summer, Aer Lingus will also operate its largest ever long haul programme with 177,000 additional seats across the Atlantic over the summer season. Having recently launched two new routes to Philadelphia and Seattle we now operate 15 routes to North America. With a daily service to San Francisco and Los Angeles on the US West Coast, twice daily flights to Chicago and a direct daily connection from Ireland to Florida with Miami and Orlando combined – not forgetting all-time favourites New York and Boston – we have the East and West Coast truly covered. For those travelling with us across the Atlantic, we are delighted to inform you that we have won a 2018 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Airline Award for Business Class. The award bestowed was based on glowing reviews and is a reflection

W

of the quality of service Aer Lingus offers its business class guests. Through our ‘Voice of the Guest’ survey, we are constantly listening to your feedback to ensure we are offering the highest standards of service, for which we also hold a coveted four-star Skytrax rating. We have made several improvements to the business class cabin in recent times, including new Vantage seats that transform to a fully flat 6’6’’ bed, personal multi-touch 16’’ high definition monitors for the best that in-flight entertainment has to offer, complimentary Wi-Fi and a seasonally-driven fine food and wine menu. We hope that you continue to enjoy our service. We endeavour to expand and grow the airline. With new aircraft on the way, we have recently taken on new additions to our cabin crew teams and launched a Future Pilot Training Programme. This year we will also double the number of young apprentices for our 2018 Aircraft Apprentice Scheme in our maintenance and engineering department based in Shannon and at Dublin Airport. It is an exciting time at the airline and there are great new career opportunities available with us as we develop and expand into 2019. Enjoy the summer and happy travels. Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.

A CLASS ACT We are delighted to have won a 2018 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Airline Award for Business Class, now recognised as one of the best European airlines to offer business class to our guests.

WINGS OF HONOUR The Aer Lingus DC3 is back and participating in air shows in Bray and Foynes this month. The plane revolutionised air transport in the 1930s-1940s and is considered to be one of the most significant aircraft ever made.

IN

PH

N DA

O /

SH ER I DAN

DREAM TEAM As the official airline of the Irish Rugby team, we will once again bring “Home Advantage” to Soldier Field in Chicago – the scene of Ireland’s historic victory over the All Blacks in 2016 – for Ireland v Italy on November 3, 2018. 4 |

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(Ire)land in style. With Platinum Services.

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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Krista Connor, Graham Corcoran, Conor Creighton, Aoife Dooley, Clíona Foley, Jane Foster, Yvonne Gordon, Al Higgins, Megan Hill, Bridget Hourican, Amanda Kavanagh, Manchán Magan, Ross McDonagh, Jo Murphy, Tara O’Brien, Eilis O’Connell, Brenna O’Donnell, Mathew Scott

CONTRIBUTORS Writer ALAN McMONAGLE lives in Galway. Last year his first novel, Ithaca, was published by Picador. He has also published two collections of short stories, and his radio plays, Oscar Night and People Walking on Water have been produced and broadcast as part of RTÉ’s Drama on One season. He was only too happy to take time out from his current project to mark his Cara debut with a piece on his beloved Galway – discover his favourite haunts from page 54.

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett

LIZ KUBALL is a photographer based in Los Angeles, California. Her work is all about conveying a sense of place and the people who live, work and play there. When she isn’t wandering around with her camera, she’s photographing for clients such as The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Curbed and Dwell. For her first ever commission for Cara, she shot the LA coastal communities of Manhattan Beach, El Segundo and Marina and Playa del Rey – turn to page 64 to savour her stellar efforts.

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Gina Traynor Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

CONOR O’LEARY is a photographer from Wexford and regularly contributes to international publications from his base in London. His personal work has taken him to the handball courts of Coney Island, small-town Finland and a community of nuns living in Wexford. For his Cara debut, Conor visited Amsterdam, photographing the creative people and spaces in the north of the city – see page 80 for his impressive findings.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

July 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

JACK REYNOR

WISE CRAIC IN HOLLYWOOD

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

DUBLIN DIARISTS

SNAPSHOTS OF THE CITY

GALWAY CITY • LA COAST • AMSTERDAM • SICILY

ON THE COVER

Jack Reynor photographed by Mathew Scott. Styling by Warren Alfie Baker; grooming by Diana Schmidtke for Art Department, LA.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine


WHO? Finbarr Ross FLYING IN FROM ... Birmingham FINBARR SAYS ... “I’m here for a few days on business. I come here about once a month for work.”

WHO? Molly, Ryan and Sally Mitchell FLYING IN FROM ... Edinburgh RYAN SAYS ... “We’re from Buffalo, New York and are visiting Europe for eight days. We’re planning on doing a trip to the Cliffs of Moher while we’re here.”

ARRIVALS

Family holidays, business trips and pleasure tours, Cara was at T2 to warmly welcome all comers.

WHO? David Green and Mariano Hermosa FLYING IN FROM ... Madrid DAVID SAYS ... “We’ve been on holidays in Spain but I’m really looking forward to getting home to a decent cup of tea.”

WHO? Bob and Rayena Pavlik FLYING IN FROM ... London BOB SAYS ... “We’re from California but have been in London visiting our daughter and granddaughter for a couple of weeks.”

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WHO? Susanne Horngacher FLYING IN FROM ... Munich SUSANNE SAYS ... “I’m here for a week and am hoping to get to Clifden, Galway and Belfast in that time.”

WORDS BY BRENNA O'DONNELL / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? Julia Evles FLYING IN FROM ... Frankfurt JULIA SAYS ... “I’m heading to Clonakilty in West Cork for a friend’s wedding.”


BREXIT: Where is it all going to land?

Ireland Transfer Pricing Firm of the Year International Tax Review 2018

At Matheson, our dedicated team of Brexit lawyers provide legal expertise and insight for businesses preparing for the UK’s exit from the EU, across all sectors including agri-business, life sciences, pharma, transport, technology, energy and natural resources, food and beverage, property and construction, banking and financial services.

Winner, Eight Deals of the Year in M&A, Equity Capital Markets, Debt Capital Markets, Financial Services, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin Awards 2018

Ireland will be the only English-speaking, common law jurisdiction with membership of the EU following the UK’s departure. Our legal advice and services include working for our clients to secure continued, longterm access to European and global markets from Ireland beyond Brexit. To find out more, please contact michael.jackson@matheson.com Visit our Brexit Forum here: www.matheson.com/brexit-forum

Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year Mergermarket European M&A Awards 2017 Ranked Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2017 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 29% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2017 Client Choice Award Winners for Corporate, Banking, IT and Internet Law in Ireland International Law Office 2017


BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie ■


CHECK IN

ALFRED SEILAND/TOLTEC, ARIZONA, 1989/C-PRINT/THE ALBERTINA MUSEUM, VIENNA © ALFRED SEILAND

EAT · READ · GO

American Classic

This photograph by Austrian photographer Alfred Seiland, 66, may have been taken in 1989 but it could easily be mistaken for the 1950s – you can almost see the tumbleweed rolling off camera through the time-warped Arizona street. The classic Americana scene features as part of a road-trip series in a retrospective of Seiland’s work at Vienna’s Albertina Museum until October 7 that also includes documentary photography taken in Syria, Israel and across his mother country. albertina.at

AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

4 BEST POP CULTURE HOTELS

Georgian House Hotel, London Gryffindor and Hufflepuff fans are guaranteed the full Hogwarts experience in the Wizard Chambers room. Hidden behind a bookcase in the lower grounds of this Grade II, 19th-century house-turnedhotel, the design here encapsulates the iconic school of magic, with stained-glass windows, cauldrons and other such Potter-inspired paraphernalia. Rooms from £259. georgianhousehotel.com

The Roxbury Motel, New York This fun and creative motel in the Catskills, New York State, transforms bedrooms into much-loved moments from popular films. Relive the journey to the Emerald City in the The Wizard of Oz Room; go back to the Stone Age in Fred (Flintstone)’s Lair; or take Breakfast at Tiffany’s in the Golightly-a-Go-Go studio. Themed rooms from $162. theroxburymotel.com

Seven Hotel, Paris James Bond was never short of luxury accommodation on his missions and you too can embrace his lavish lifestyle (if only for one night) at the Seven Hotel’s retro-stylish Bond Suite. The vintage room – think the Connery era – includes the complete Bond collection to watch and your own bar to shake a martini. Another themed crash-pad is Cabaret – anyone care for a prairie oyster? Suites from €337. sevenhotelparis.com

Wonderland House, Brighton Channel your inner Alice at Wonderland House on Britain’s East Sussex coast. Each of the six themed bedrooms capture a different snippet from Lewis Carroll’s trippy book, while tea parties are hosted in the – you’ve guessed it – Madhatter Banqueting Room, where chairs are oversized teacups. Rooms from £700 for a two-night minimum stay. wonderlandhouse.co.uk

WELLBEING

WITNESS THE FITNESS

Pack your yoga pants and neon sweatbands for three days of fitness and fab abs at LoveFit Festival. Set on the grounds of the St Clere Estate, near London, this July 20-22, communal activities include daily runs, paddleboard yoga, kickboxing, bodybuilding and more, as well as nightly DJ sets, woodland discos and acoustic chillouts. Weekend tickets from £99, or £69 for Saturday only. lovefitfestival.com

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MUSIC

CRAZY IN ROME Musical power duo Beyoncé and Jay-Z foot the double bill at a one-night-only concert in Rome’s Stadio Olimpico on July 8. They’ve collaborated before, on some of the biggest hits of recent years – Drunk in Love, Déjà Vu and Crazy in Love are collaborations – not to mention their creation of a trio of beautiful children, and this show should see the golden couple make even more beautiful music – and cash, the tour is forecast to swell their already bulging pockets by another $200 million. ticketmaster.it


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COPYRIGHT RHS

FESTIVAL

G FORCE

ART

HOME AGAIN

Marking the restoration of City Assembly House (South William Street) and to celebrate the Society of Artists in Ireland who erected the building 250 years ago, the Irish Georgian Society hosts a worldclass exhibition of magnificent 18thcentury Irish paintings (until July 29). igs.ie

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GARDENING

Arbour Masters

Floral tourists continue their garden crawl (Chelsea Flower Show, Dublin’s Bloom) with a visit to the RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show from July 3-8 showcased on the majestic Tudor estate. The green-fingered brigade will be inspired and awed by a bevy of show gardens, including an installation by the Dutch New Perennial guru Piet Oudolf, while top chef Raymond Blanc’s kitchen garden aims to demonstrate how we can all join the GYO movement with as little as a window box. rhs.org.uk

THE ROSES FLED DOWN THE EDGES, 2017 – COPYRIGHT GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL

Immersive theatre is to the fore of this year’s Galway International Arts Festival (July 16-29) with a diverse trio of interactive productions: Flight, an adaption of Caroline Brothers’ novel Hinterland; Gardens Speak, Tania El Khoury’s meditation on the war in Syria and Enda Walsh’s Office 33A, exploring love and loss with trademark left-field aplomb. Also tearing up the rulebook is choreographer Emma Martin’s reimagining of Gluck’s Orfeo ed Euridice and the Irish language/ English surtitles Baoite/Bait, pictured, by Darach Mac Con Iomaire. giaf.ie

Harlem Shuffle

ART Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca continues to inspire 120 years after his birth. His visceral verse The King of Harlem – written in 1929/30 as part of his groundbreaking Poet in New York series – is the theme of new works by the Neapolitan artist Francesco Clemente, on show at Rome’s Galleria Lorcan O’Neill until August 3. Clemente, 66, moved to NYC in the 1980s and became a close friend of Warhol, Basquiat, Haring and Ginsberg. This new body of work, entitled After García Lorca in New York, distils the writer’s joy and despair of Harlem during the Jazz Age. lorcanoneill.com


CELEBRATING THE VERY BEST IN IRISH DESIGN Showcasing twenty-five Irish designers across ready-to-wear, millinery, jewellery, scarves, accessories and interiors. Visit CREATE at Brown Thomas Dublin. 03/07/2018 - 12/08/2018

#BTCREATE

brownthomas.com

Úna Burke


DIASPORA

PATTERNS of life Orla Kiely is a busy woman. The Irish fashion designer, who is based in London, began her career designing hats, later moving on to designing handbags and a variety of other items, including kitchenware and even cars. Today she oversees an ever-growing, globally identifiable brand. This month, the exhibition Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern continues at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Featuring more than 150 patterns and products, as well as collaborations with photographers, film directors and architects, the showcase celebrates the designer while emphasising the role of ornament and colour in our everyday lives.

Are you a nostalgic person? I am a person who is always looking forwards not backwards, which is why an exhibition like this is a challenge. From a design perspective, nostalgia does inspire what we do. I love mid-century design in furniture, art and fashion, the values it held and the fact it still holds up today. My memories of growing up in Dublin in the 1970s and thinking of my parents’ home and how their taste was then, has left that indelible influence on me.

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It is taking something of that time and rethinking how it applies today. Whether we are making a bag or a homeware piece, good design is what matters most. Where in the world have you been most surprised to see an Orla Kiely print? Watching the new series of Twin Peaks and seeing Laura Dern’s character pull out her iPhone with a Multi Stem print totally caught us by surprise. Where do you go for inspiration? Nature will always be a great source of pattern ideas. Going for walks through the rhododendron and azaleas gardens in Cannizaro Park or seeing a show at the Tate are favourites in London and, of course, heading back to Dublin and the surrounding countryside, seeing the colours of my childhood, always inspires. Has digitisation helped or hindered your creative process? As a young graduate, my first job was mixing colours by hand for a print designer in New York, it refined my eye. Then as a print designer at Esprit we would colour

every print by hand and you had to commit yourself to an idea early on as the process took so long. Today with technology, I can work with my team on Illustrator and develop new print and colour combinations very quickly. It has allowed me to go further and dream bigger. How do you spend your downtime? For special dinners J Sheekey in London is fun; it has a great atmosphere and food, and of course great design by David Collins. For something a little more casual and after work we aim for Honey & Co. It is always good for a weekday dinner with friends. Their aubergine dish is my favourite. When staying close to home, The Dairy owned by Robin Gill is so good, either before or after heading to the Clapham Picture House, my local cinema. What do you remember most about first moving to London? As a graduate in Dublin I knew I wanted to travel and see the world. I hoped to get a junior designer position in either New York or London. After a short work experience in New York,

opportunities arose that involved further travelling before settling in London and starting our brand. I remember feeling I would never be bored in London. What do you look forward to most when coming back to Dublin? I look forward to seeing my family; we still love to gather at our childhood home in Dublin. I also love going for walks by the sea, which is two minutes from our house; it clears my mind. Having created a global empire in London, what are your thoughts about Brexit? Personally, and for the business, we would have preferred to remain as part of Europe. We work with manufacturers in Portugal and buy our fabrics from mills in Italy and France, so it will definitely be more complicated. Your face has appeared on a postage stamp. Who would you like to see on an Irish stamp? Writer and actress Sharon Horgan – she is an original and one of the best talents to come out of Ireland in recent years.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICOLE NODLAND

Tell us about the curatorial process for A Life in Pattern? It started almost a year ago when the Fashion and Textile Museum approached us. I had never imagined undertaking such a project but it has been a challenge my team and I have taken on happily. Going through what archives we had was our starting point and we continued to build from there. The story of the company is to be found in each print and its development. This has taken a long time to build but what has remained consistent is the connection our customers have with our prints.


HOLIDAY

STATES OF INDEPENDENCE

SPORT

Such a Racket

The first two weeks of July make way for bright white shorts and endless amounts of strawberries and cream, as all eyes turn to Centre Court for the Wimbledon Championship. From July 2-15 the world’s greatest tennis players will return to London for one of the world’s most prestigious tennis tournaments. Follow the drama as Roger Federer and Garbiñe Muguruza fight to defend their titles. wimbledon.com

DESIGN AVIATION

Sew this Season

Air Heads

JASON PPHELAN

“An aerobatic feast for the senses”, this year’s Bray Air Display, July 28-29, features more than 40 aircraft as well as parachute teams over two days of ace aviation spectacle. There will also be helicopter pleasure flights on both the Saturday and Sunday for those wishing to take it all in via a bird’s-eye view. Meanwhile, on terra firma, look out for the food and craft village, featuring a broad wingspan of fresh food and specialist craft stalls as well as melodic musical interludes. A high-flying treat for families and plane spotters alike ... brayairdisplay.com

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Anticipation surrounds the work of Richard Quinn for the eighth instalment of CREATE at Brown Thomas,, which champions emerging and established designers at the Dublin department store. Not only did Quinn win the Queen Elizabeth II Award for Best British Design in February (his parents are Irish), he clothed Amal Clooney at May’s Met Gala. Another newcomer includes “Designer to Watch” NCAD 2018 bursary winner Ala Sinkevich, work pictured, while returnees include Domino Whisker, whose embroidery on Irish linen is covetably quirky. From July 3. brownthomas.com

Across the US, gatherings will be taking place over Fourth of July weekend for heartfelt commemoration – as much as extravagant celebration – of the nation’s historic struggle for independence. And no city is better suited to join in the celebrations this year than West Coast wonder San Francisco. There, street parties, outdoor events and breathtaking fireworks displays over the Golden Gate bridge will create an unforgettable weekend of celebration and spectacle.


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LUNCH

BIBENDUM LONDON

Bibendum by Claude Bosi, in the iconic Michelin House, is a really classy “spoil yourself” event. They even do lunch on Sunday, which is just ideal. The menu is imbued with class and changes consistently – I loved the rabbit and langoustine dish and the legendary chocolate soufflé, stamped with the Bibendum Michelin Man and served with Thai basil ice cream. They also offer à la carte, a tasting menu and a very good value three-course lunch menu – at £50 it’s a bargain! The building is stunning, the room is beautifully done and you have a great view of the kitchen too. Bibendum received two stars in the 2018 Michelin awards and I guess it’s just a matter of time before they go up again. bibendum.co.uk

FOOD FLIGHT

DINNER

DIVERXO MADRID

I love Spain’s capital city. I visit at least every couple of years for Madrid Fusion, a big gastronomical convention where the world’s best and most innovative chefs present and demonstrate new concepts and ideas. There is almost too much choice but, for a night to remember, go to DiverXO. Dabiz Muñoz is a genius; an unbelievable chef. The restaurant boasts three Michelin stars and is a unique, evoking and surreal experience. You never know what to expect but it will be a one-of-a-kind experience … just go! diverxo.com BREAKFAST

CAFÉ ONDER DE OOIEVAAR AMSTERDAM

I love having a good breakfast here on the Prinsengracht canal. This café opens up early and on a nice day they set out the terrace with a great view of the canal. I order a traditional uitsmijter (ham and cheese), a cappuccino, fresh orange juice and enjoy the spectacle and good vibes. You can spoil yourself with a slice of apple pie with loads of cream too.

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Chef Martijn Kajuiter is celebrating ten years at Cliff House Hotel in Co Waterford, where he holds a Michelin star in the House Restaurant for his innovative cooking. Blazing a trail ever since he arrived at the hotel in Ardmore, Martijn and his team create exciting dishes using fantastic local produce. Originally from the Netherlands, Martijn (44) has been working in kitchens since he was 15. DRINKS

VINTAGE COCKTAIL CLUB DUBLIN

Some years ago, I was out with friends in Temple Bar and was brought here. It’s a bit of a ritual to get in – you knock on the door, wait and pray they have room to let you in. Then you step into a different world: it looks like a movie set from the 1920s. It’s such a cool place. The cocktails are something else; they do the classics very well and, on friendly request, will customise your tipple. One to try is the Trouble & Strife, comprising gin, rhubarb, vanilla, star anise, citrus and lemon oils. vintagecocktailclub.com


FOR THE

BEST RATES

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A TALE IS BREWING

In the heart of Kilkenny city, and Ireland’s Ancient East, is the home of Ireland’s most popular ale. Find out how our famous red ale is made on a guided tour. Discover stories and tales of our heritage, dating back over 300 years. Your visit will be topped off with a perfectly poured pint of one of our ales, or upgrade to a tasting paddle and try all three.

BOOK TICKETS ONLINE AT WWW.SMITHWICKSEXPERIENCE.COM


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LONDON INNIT

Critics have been clutching their cutlery in awe of Tom Brown’s, right, super-seasonal new hotspot: Cornerstone (cornerstonehackney.com) in Hackney Wick. Described by Giles Coren, as “out of this world”, we can’t help but agree. Meanwhile, glam bites and fabulous fizzes are the go-to at Midsummer Terrace (seacontainersrestaurant.com) at the Mondrian, below, popping-up for the duration of the summer.

5 STELLAR STOUTS We Irish are world-renowned for our consumption of one brand of stout in particular, but there are many more versions of the black stuff worthy of your attention, here are five firm favourites. O’Hara’s, Leann Folláin (6% abv) Rich, full-bodied with vanilla and mocha highlights. This luxurious, velvety stout has a bitter finish that adds complexity to its deep, chocolate base. Pours deep black with an amber head.

CHICKEN IN Bok a Bok recently opened a third iteration of its moreishly crispy, crunchy, Korean fried chicken empire in Seattle’s ‘burbish Burien and already praise is effusive. The menu includes boozy slushies, Korean fried chicken (natch) and that phenomenal kimchi mac and cheese that got tongues-a-waggin’ in the first place. bokabokchicken.com

GRUB’S UP

There’s eating and drinking in Eoin Higgins’ lip-smacking July round-up.

BOX FRESH Shellproof chef Dylan McGrath recently

launched his personal homage to Japanese pub grub at slick izakaya, Bonsai Bar, in Dublin’s city centre. The Nippon paean comes in the shape of a bountiful Bonsai Bento menu that features yum-inducing morsels and mouthfuls like miso soup with cockles and shimeji, and sweet, green, ice cream sandwiches made of malt, green tea, Japanese cheesecake and puff pastry. In the chef’s own words: “It’s a twisted, yet authentic, version of Japanese pub food” and might just be the feelgood Dublin food hit of the summer. thebonsaibar.com

MENU MASTERCLASS WHERE? (Pre-Theatre) Glovers Alley, 128 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 THE STARTER White Asparagus ‘Tagliatelle’, Button Mushroom, 36-month-oldParmesan THE MAIN Pollock, Carrot, Grapefruit & Bisque THE DRINK Schloss Gobelsburg, Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria 2016 PRICE €45. gloversalley.ie

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Kinnegar & The White Hag, The Hare & the Hag (6.5% abv) A collaborative project between Kinnegar and The White Hag breweries resulting in a deservedly acclaimed nitro stout. Rich, restrained and aged in Irish malt whiskey barrels. Galway Bay, Buried at Sea Milk Stout (4.5% abv) Chockful of specialty malts, Buried at Sea is brewed with milk sugars and chocolate to give it a richly decadent, yet smoothly drinkable, flavour profile. Pours dark brown with a handsome tan head. Dungarvan Brewing Company, Black Rock Irish Stout (4.3% abv) Fullflavoured and medium-bodied, this award-winning stout is a great food beer due to its silky smooth finish; works as well with savoury meat dishes as it does with desserts. Porterhouse, Wrasslers XXXX (5% abv) “A stout like your grandfather used to drink”. Wrasslers’ flavour profile is rooted firmly in tradition, yet its bitter/sweet, coffee, malt, chocolate notes along with its long, dry finish have garnered it a passionate, contemporary following.


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FAMILY FROLICS

ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN

Sheila Wayman picks five of the best summer festivals in Ireland for all-ages fun.

DUBLIN & CORK LAYA HEALTHCARE’S CITY SPECTACULAR

The biggest summer festival in Ireland fills Dublin’s Merrion Square from July 6-8 before it ups sticks to do it all again in Cork’s Fitzgerald Park from July 14-15; from international street performers and a “get active” family stage, to a kids’ court where errant parents can be sentenced to a custard-pie-in-the-face, it’s free entertainment all the way. cityspectacular.com

DONEGAL EARAGAIL ARTS FESTIVAL

Irish and international artists flock to northwest Donegal this July

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7-29 for 22 packed days of music, theatre, visual arts, film, circus and carnival in magical places, from galleries and village halls to beaches and forests. Highlights for children include shows by Lords of Strut (of Britain’s Got Talent 2017 fame), in Malin; a drop-in, hands-on art zone in Letterkenny and open-air Alice in Wonderland in Rathmullan. eaf.ie

CORK WEST CORK LITERARY FESTIVAL

Nigerian-born poet and performer Inua Ellams, Irish novelist Louise O’Neill and South Africa’s Mary Watson are among writers intent on inspiring the next generation through workshops

and readings in this Bantry-based festival from July 14-21. There’s a dedicated programme for children and young people, which is part of a European project to reignite passion for reading, particularly among those aged 1219. westcorkliteraryfestival.ie

DUBLIN FESTIVAL OF CURIOSITY

Expect the unexpected at interactive installations, pop-up playgrounds and immersive experiences as 14 venues across Dublin city centre collaborate on a carnival of wonder from July 19-22. Enjoy playful days and curious nights in this cultural feast of design, arts, technology and

science for the lively minded, with plenty of free events, indoors and outdoors, for everyone in the family. festivalofcuriosity.ie

LAOIS DURROW SCARECROW FESTIVAL Straw-people of all shapes and sizes pop up everywhere in the pretty Midlands village of Durrow for a festival that can rightly boast to be outstanding in its field, as it hosts the All-Ireland Scarecrow Championship. Held this July 29 until August 6, look out too for the round hay bales competitively decorated for the occasion. Food stalls, arts and crafts and live entertainment abound. durrowscarecrowfestival.com


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BANK ON IT

ALL TOGETHER NOW Co Waterford, August 3–5, €149.50–€179.50 The new camping festival on the block. ATN’s organisers have been glowing about the family-friendly estate at Curraghmore that features a crystal ballroom, a Spiegeltent, 1,215 hectares of lakes, fields, stone circles and woodlands. However, it’s the demographic-crossing line-up that pegs it as the new Irish festival for the discerning music fan, with both heritage and cutting-edge acts such as Chaka Khan, Yasiin Bey, Villagers, The New Power Generation, Fleet Foxes, Underworld, Nils Frahm and Kelela, among many others. What’s more – it’s a family-friendly event. Sounds idyllic. alltogethernow.ie SPRAOI INTERNATIONAL STREET ARTS FESTIVAL Waterford, August 3–5, Free Spraoi is an all-ages festival in Waterford city, with street performance and a float-filled parade central to the weekend. Alongside it, there is comedy, a fireworks display and SprÓg – a children’s programme featuring film screenings and illustration workshops. This year’s music line-up welcomes Waterford’s own electro-

dance party band King Kong Company, Bob Marley tribute band Buffalo Soul, ska delights The Skatuesques, power pop/rock band The Dead Heavys and Dublin Ukulele Collective dotted over four areas. spraoi.com

KEN KABAN

The August Bank Holiday is getting closer – don’t miss out on tickets to some of Ireland’s best music festivals, featuring everyone from Chaka Khan to Ships, says Niall Byrne. Vocalist and musician Ghostpoet will take to the stage in Waterford for the All Together Now festival from August 3-5.

THE BEATYARD Co Dublin, August 4-5, €59–€150 For a taste of the exotic on the Dún Laoghaire seafront, the nauticalthemed Beatyard offers new jazz great Kamasi Washington, the first Irish appearance of The Jacksons, Swedish electro-poppers Little Dragon, electronic godfathers Orbital and elegiac electronic duo Kiasmos alongside hip-hop pioneers the Sugarhill Gang. The festival’s organisers Bodytonic are also known for their love of bars and food so expect passionate offerings in those areas at this festival by the sea. the-beatyard.com INDIEPENDENCE Co Cork, August 3–5, €109–€179 As Co Cork’s only outdoor camping festival, Indiependence is almost guaranteed to sell out every year thanks to the home crowd flocking to the Mitchelstown venue. “Indie”, as it’s affectionately known, has grown from an independent music

festival to one that embraces big names in mainstream rock and pop such as Primal Scream, Jake Bugg, Walking on Cars and Kate Nash. Down below the main bill, the organisers have always booked the best of current Irish talent such as Delorentos and Le Galaxie and this year they are recognising Ireland’s burgeoning urban scene, with Mango x Mathman, Kojaque, Tebi Rex and Erica Cody making appearances. indiependencefestival.com CASTLEPALOOZA Co Offaly, August 3–5; €49–€139 Set on the grounds of the haunted Charleville Castle in Tullamore, Castlepalooza is one of the more intimate offerings on the festival circuit. While you may catch a glimpse of a spectral vision inside, it’s the abundance of well-curated audio available outside that is the main draw. For its music policy, Castlepalooza acts as the older, cooler brother, bringing in the NYC punkfunk of Chk Chk Chk, the Dutch dance duo of Detroit Swindle, Choice Music Prize Irish album of the yearwinning act Ships, the electronic-rock of All Tvvins and the galactic electro of Space Dimension Controller. At its best, Castlepalooza really feels like an escape. castlepalooza.com

IN THE PINK Making girls and boys wink since 2016, New York’s Pinknic beckons thousands of guests – all dressed in pink and white – to plonk their blushing posteriors on rosé-coloured picnic blankets for a day of sipping ravishing rosés and tasting perfectly paired platefuls with friends and family. The July 1 gathering on Governors Island also offers unobstructed views of the Statue of Liberty and

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the Manhattan skyline – making it the perfect spot to take in the quintessential NYC backdrop. But it’s not all sips and nibbles, there is also plenty of lively entertainment to tipple – from world-renowned bands and DJs, to interactions with some of the city’s top wine and food experts. There’s also a pool, with mermaids, and spectacular sunset fireworks to close the festival with a pop! pinknic.com


E X P E R I E N C E

AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALITY Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. Join us on a voyage of discovery at Lemuel’s, relax and enjoy a tasty meal in Alfie Byrne’s or take a seat in the stylish surroundings of The Coburg and experience a true brasserie.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

CONRADDUBLIN.COM

#STAYINSPIRED

2018


HOMEMADE

SOUVENIR SHOPPING, OR SELF-GIFTING? HERE’S OUR EDIT OF CRAFTY ITEMS LOVINGLY PRODUCED ACROSS THE ISLAND OF IRELAND. 2

3

5

6

JO MURPHY

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1. SLICE AS NICE

Is it possible to get excited about a bread board? So tactile are these beauties crafted by Terry Cullen in Greystones, Wicklow, that you might even forget to cut the sourdough. From €50 at two woodenhorses.com.

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2. EAR AND NOW

Jeweller Alice Moyon, aka Aliquo, took inspiration from nature for her Sunset collection – these brassengraved earrings plated in 24k gold are midsummernight’s dreamy. €75 at Om Diva, Dublin 2 and at aliquo.ie.

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3. DISHY WIT’ IT

These small plates by Arran Street East are almost too handsome to eat off. Stack ‘em up on a dresser/shelving for maximum impact. From €25 at their studio on Little Green Street, Dublin 7 or at arranstreeteast.ie.

4. KELP ONESELF

Following in the succes of their women’s skincare range is VOYA Men, whose Sligo seaweed-toting trio of face wash, shave gel and moisturiser aims to hydrate, soothe and reduce fine lines. From €24 at kilkennyshop.com.

5. SEAT OF POWER

You might need a bigger suitcase. This oak chair made in Laois by Alan Meredith is an investment piece par excellence, Meredith’s background in architecture wholly evident. €1,570 at alanmeredith.ie.

6. BAND WIDTH

Bumbags have thankfully moved on since 1989 and this one from Daki Daki’s Zdravka Rezic – made in Drimnagh – can be worn in a variety of hand-free ways. Festivaltastic. €55 at dakidakidesign. com.


outdoor

GUY

SWEATER GRAB YOUR

MADE IN IRELAND

BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS an Irish Family Business

shop online @ blarney.com


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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican browses and listens to new reads and podcasts while looking forward to some leftfield events.

Apparently the Panama-Pacific International Exposition (PPIE) of 1915 was the catalyst for California Crazy, aka offbeat architecture aka roadside vernacular aka American Pop Architecture. Add the fantastical sets and façades of Hollywood, the sprawling geography and a rising automobile culture and you get the weird, witty and wonderful buildings that adorn the roadsides of Southern California. Selling doughnuts? Turn the building into one! Selling nylons? Extend a shapely leg from the roof. If it’s a fish market and ship café, put the building in the shape of a boat … Le Corbusier it ain’t and maybe best not to try at home but in the heat and vastness of California, it’s irresistible. ESSAYS NOTES TO SELF: ESSAYS by Emilie Pine (Tramp Press, pbk) The title of the opening essay, Notes on Intemperance, puns on Pine’s father’s alcoholism and her own impatience with him. Confession and detachment are the keynotes of this personal collection about miscarriage, infertility, lost teenage years, sexual harassment, everyday sexism. A poignant, brave book, at once highly personal and consciously representative of Irishwomen “Generation X”.

HISTORY QUEEN OF THE SEA: A HISTORY OF LISBON by Barry Hatton (C Hurst & Co) Apparently Lisbon is the new Barcelona or Berlin – ie a magnet for young bohemians – which isn’t necessarily good news if you like your cities undiscovered. Hatton has lived there for three decades as a foreign correspondent. Author of an excellent history of the Portuguese, he focuses here on Lisbon’s 2,000-year-old history, from Roman times through the Conquistadores and the Salazar years.

MEMOIR HOW TO BE FAMOUS by Caitlin Moran (Ebury, hbk, pbk, ebook) The sequel to Moran’s beguiling How to Build a Girl has narrator, Johanna Morrigan, still only 19, living in London in the mid-1990s, writing for The Face, having one-night stands, watching friends get famous and go nuts. Sex, drugs, fame and Britpop from someone who was at the coalface. Witty, sassy, sweet and a love letter to the 1990s.

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RITUALS UNCOVERED

If you find yourself in Coney Island this July 4, check out Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest – last year’s record, 72 hot dogs unvomited! If you’re near Congham in Norfolk, England, there’s the World Snail Racing Championship on July 21, with competitors hoping to beat the 1995 record – 2 min 20 sec over 0.3m. If you’re in Pamplona, Spain, in or around July 7, it’s the San Fermin festival, Running of the Bulls. And if it’s mudslinging you want, head to Brunsbüttel, Germany for the Wattolümpiade (mud Olympics) on July 21 or Daecheon Beach, South Korea for the Boryeong Mud Festival (July 13-22). Find these and many more “weird and wonderful rituals from around the world” in Crazy Competitions by Nigel Holmes (Taschen).

If you haven’t already checked out this popular, crowd-funded literary podcast, the format is simple: presenters Andy Miller and John Mitchinson invite a guest – usually a writer – to talk about a book he or she thinks deserves a wider audience, with Andy and John chipping in to discuss their own latest reading. The good-humoured, enthusiastic banter juxtaposes well with the at times abstruse choice of book (although it’s not all highbrow – I’m thrilled to find Diana Wynne Jones, Nancy Mitford and Edmund Gosse showcased). It’s a choice whether to seek inspiration to read something new and forbidding or hear what they all have to say about one of your personal favourites.

MAIN IMAGE: JIM HEIMANN COLLECTION/COURTESY TASCHEN

CALIFORNIA CRAZY BY JIM HEIMANN (Taschen)


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What did your childhood holidays consist of? Every summer we’d go to Turkey, where my mother is from – specifically, to her hometown of Mersin, in the relatively obscure southeast corner of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. We’d hang out with our cousins. That hasn’t changed: we’ve continued to congregate in Turkey every August, although the whole enterprise now features an enormous pack of children. Thirty of us can be together at once.

Favourite literary festival? I love all the festivals in Ireland but maybe I’m a bit biased. I was astounded and moved by the Jaipur Literature Festival, in northwest India. It’s packed with young people, many of whom have travelled a long way by train and sleep rough at the station. And it has an extraordinary range of writers and speakers.

SOPHIA EVANS/EYEVINE

Where do you do most of your writing? I don’t have a home office. Each book gets written partly in a New York coffee shop, partly during fortnightlong getaways that we take two or three times a year. Recently we’ve been going to Montreal, which can be reached after a five- or six-hour drive through the vast forests that lie to the north of New York City. I love Montreal – it’s francophone, it’s affordable and it’s civilised.

Favourite Irish restaurant? Ard Bia, in Galway. Not only is the food top-notch, it’s operated by a very warm and passionate crew.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

Joseph O’Neill was born in Ireland and grew up in several different countries. He now lives in New York and is the author of four novels. He’ll read from Good Trouble, his new collection of short stories, on July 19 at The Maritime Hotel as part of the West Cork Literary Festival, which takes place in and around Bantry from July 13-20. Other highlights include “An Evening Fantasy travel with” Bernard MacLaverty and Margaret companions? I’d love to Drabble, and husband-and-wife dream drive across the US, coast team Zadie Smith and Nick Laird. to coast, via the Deep South westcorkliteraryfestival.ie

and high western deserts, with my mother and father.

Most memorable hotel you’ve ever stayed in and why? Well, I lived at the Chelsea Hotel, here in New York, for about a decade. That was pretty memorable. I’d need to write several tragicomic novels to do justice to that experience. The long-time owner and manager of the Chelsea, Stanley Bard, died last year. I liked him a lot and I miss him.

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If you could catch a plane anywhere, to where would it be? I’d catch a plane to London, go directly to Lord’s cricket ground and watch Ireland play England in a Test match. It’s a fictional scenario at the moment but, Three one day, it will desert come to pass.

island items? Laptop. Wi-Fi. A well-inflated football.


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5 GOOD REASONS ...

… to revel in the niceties of Nice. Eoin Higgins retires to the Riviera.

GLAMOUR Since the dawn of tourism, Nice has held a special place in the hearts of those lucky, or rich, enough to be able to travel for pleasure at the drop of a sun hat. The city has historically been chosen as vacation destination par excellence by artists, movie stars, rock ‘n’ rollers, race car drivers and fab fashionistas. From its ritzy bars, upmarket restaurants, to its high-class hotels, the city is a bolthole for the bold and the beautiful.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NICE up to ten times per week.

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BEACH LIFE Snugly hugging the Côte d’Azur, the city is beautifully positioned to make the most of the region’s golden beaches. There are lots to choose from. For public-facing beach beaus and babes, La Plage

Publique de Beau Rivage is a beautiful strand wellequipped with showers, lifeguards and pristine bathroom facilities. For starlets and the people who hang on their coattails, the private Plage Beau Rivage next door is suitably incognito. LE FOODING The world-renowned Cours Saleya food market is a smorgasbord of vibrant sights and sounds, delicious aromas and flavours. Browse in the cool shade of its pretty striped awnings, where characterful vendors hawk everything from escargots to go, to varieties of saucissons that go on and on and on. Meanwhile, the city’s restaurant scene is just as flavourfully fertile, from Michelin marvels to seafood scenesters, there is much to feast on. BEAUX ARTS With well above average – even for France – square metres of urban museum and gallery space, Nice is a happy haven for avid canvas fanciers and ardent sculpture vultures. The aforementioned, light-loving Henri Matisse is immortalised at the eponymous Musée Matisse, where one of the world’s largest collections of the great 20th-century artist’s work hangs out. Meanwhile, this month, the Riviera’s most jazz-loving ville again hosts one of the world’s best-loved jazz shindigs, the Nice Jazz Festival (July 16-21).

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

SUNSHINE Nice enjoys mild winters and hot, dry, sunny summers, making it a clever destination for heatseekers year-round. But it’s not just the sun’s heat that attracts; the quality of its light is just as magnetic. Artists and photographers, including Henri Matisse – who remarked “when I realised that I would see this light every morning, I couldn’t believe my luck” – have chosen Nice as a base, for its lush luminance.


Immerse yourself in tales of sacrifice, adventure and triumph at EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, the world’s only fully digital museum. Interactive, enlightening and visually beautiful, it tells the captivating story of a small island with a big impact on the world. Discover the inspiring history of Ireland and its people, uncover your Irish roots at the Irish Family History Centre and leave with an overwhelming pride in Irish heritage.

Open 7 days a week 10am–6:45 (last entry 5pm) CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1

BOOK ONLINE epicchq.com


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PLAYFUL

in Paris

On the chaotic Boulevard Poissonnière, Amanda Kavanagh hides away in a thoughtful and elegant hotel. ou can tell a lot from uniforms. At Hotel des Grands Boulevards, we’re welcomed in out of the rain with a cheery chorus of Bonjour! from buttoned-up, chambray-shirted staff at the narrow reception desk. The tone is set immediately. We’re expecting friendly and casual, but stylish and of-the-moment too, and these first impressions turn out to be spot on. As we are arriving on the hotel’s opening night, we are also greeted by lingering furniture deliveries and carpenters finishing up odds and ends around the hallways. Taking our leather-tasselled keychain (no card readers here), we navigate the curved stairs, whose pattern mirrors the external brickwork, and follow the arrows, which are hand-drawn onto butcher’s paper, to our rooms. Rooms are Paris-sized of course, though not tiny. Loose linen curtains line the windows – mine are an aqua blue meant to reflect the city’s rooftops – and they also provide a canopy over the plump beds, which have raspberry woolvelvet headboards. The walls are lime plastered, so they’re not too

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perfect, while the en suites are marshmallow pink with a mix of tiling and materials, including a red Spanish marble called Marbre corail. There is beauty and interest in every detail, from the rustic stools that act as bedside tables, to the vintage-style Princess telephones, brass light switches, and the Chateau de Versailles parquet patterned carpet. On a table is a smoked glass vase with long stems of wildflowers. There’s no fuss or flounce; everything has an easy, playful charm. You’ll find different door handles on either side of a door – one might be a ladybird – and the mix-andmatch theme is continued with the toiletries. There’s no blind devotion to French brands here; Evolve’s African orange and cedarwood body wash and Ren’s neroli and grapefruit body cream, are among the mini treats. With just 50 bedrooms in this boutique hotel, breakfast is calm and quiet. We skip the gravlax trout with black tea and instead plump for homemade hazelnutheavy granola, with kiwi and pomegranate fruit salad, and help ourselves to a generous dollop of apple compote and yoghurt.

WHAT TO PACK

Baggu Croissant Bag, €12 at scoutdublin.com Eau Thermale Avène Cream SPF50+ (50ml), €20 at boots.ie

Acqua di Parma Colonia (100ml), €106 at brownthomas.com

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Linen Scarf, €120 at kathryndavey.com

Carefully considered – double rooms at the Hotel des Grands Boulevards start at €200. grands boulevards hotel.com

Freshly squeezed grapefruit and orange juice are standard; we finish with a snack of Comté cheese with fluffy olive and tomato bread. The breakfast room’s parquet floor echoes the brickwork in the landscaped courtyard on the other side of the glass, which helps the small space feel much bigger. Although the courtyard isn’t ready for this visit, thankfully, the hotel’s tiny cocktail bar, The Shell, is. We spend an evening sat in curved mid-century chairs that reflect the intense carmine red theme, which runs from floor to ceiling in the bar. Jane Eyre’s Red Room springs to mind ... but this experience is far more pleasant. Throughout our stay, it is clear that absolutely nothing at Hotel des Grands Boulevards is an afterthought. It’s a true delight to stay somewhere that has such careful consideration at every corner, with quirks at every turn.

Torpor (MIT Press) by Chris Krauss, €15.65 at kennys.ie

Marvis Toothpaste, €18 at indigoandcloth.com

Dead Fresh Aspen Sunglasses, €60 at deadfreshsunglasses.com

Archie Brogue, £240 at grenson.com


� �ecret �ap? WHO’S ASKING?

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THE OUTDOORS A ten-minute walk west of the centre, Baćvice is a brown sand beach leading into warm shallow sea, looking towards the island of Brać. It’s backed by tamarisk trees and overlooked by a Žbirac café. Much loved by locals and ideal for kids, it’s been the official town beach since 1891.

SPLIT AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Jane Foster shows us around this magnificent ancient city overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

MORE ABOUT JANE Jane Foster is a British freelance travel writer, with a background in architecture, based in Split. She has travelled extensively throughout the Balkans and writes about Croatia, Montenegro and Greece for various newspapers and magazines. She is also author of Frommer’s EasyGuide to Croatia.

THE ATTRACTION Split grew up within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace, built by the Roman Emperor in the third century as his monumental retirement home. Today UNESCO-listed, its narrow stone streets are packed with noble Venetian-era buildings, and the central square, the Peristil, is overlooked by Diocletian’s octagonal mausoleum, now the cathedral. (Dioklecijanova ul. 1, +385 1 469 9333; diocletianspalace.org)

THE BAR Split’s favourite wine bar, Paradox, now has a fantastic rooftop terrace. They do personalised tastings with a sommelier, who’ll introduce you to the complexity and variety of Dalmatian wines. Expect to sample regional favourites such as velvety red Dingać from Pelješac peninsular, or summery white Pošip from Korćula. (Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, +385 21 787 778; paradox.hr) THE EATERY Family-run Konoba Fetivi serves fresh fish. The morning’s catch is presented on a platter: choose what you want (for instance, sea bass, sea bream or red mullet) and have it grilled and served with olive oil and lemon. Or order a daily special, cuttlefish with polenta or octopus with chickpeas, and a carafe of house wine. (Tomića Stine 4, +385 21 355 152)

THE WILDCARD Dalmatia is famed for its islands. And from Split, Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans serve the nearest. Make a day-trip to Bol on Brać, to swim at Zlatni Rat, Croatia’s most photographed beach (and top windsurf destination), or visit elegant Hvar Town on Hvar, with its palm-lined seafront promenade, Baroque cathedral and 16th-century hilltop fortress.

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THE SHOP Uje has two stores specialising in olive oil. Their Brachia virgin olive oil (from Brać) comes in an elegant olive-shaped white ceramic flask. They also stock olive oil-based soaps, scented with wild Dalmatian herbs such as sage, rosemary or lavender, and rakija (a potent spirit) flavoured with honey. (Dominisova 3, +385 95 200 8008)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SPLIT three times per week.


The Collection By Amy Huberman

www.n e wbridge silv e rw ar e. com


INTERVIEW

He’s alright

JACK

From Blessington, Wicklow to Hollywood, California, actor Jack Reynor is forging his way in film and TV. We catch up with him in LA to talk cinema, sex, lies and, er, Blu-ray. WORDS ROSS McDONAGH PHOTOGRAPHS MATHEW SCOTT

I

t is perhaps apt that our meeting is at LA’s Beachwood Cafe. From the inside it is quiet, unassuming and could be any little eatery back in the Irish countryside. But step outside and you cannot miss the giant white letters towering in the hills right behind it: “Hollywood”. Jack Reynor’s instant charm, piercing blue eyes and roguishly handsome looks scream Hollywood too, but on the inside he is very much yer man down the road. He has lived in Wicklow since age two but he was born in Colorado, so that must make him American ... right? “Not in the f*****’ slightest, man,” he grins (he swears like a sailor by the way). “I don’t identify as American at all. I just happened to be born here.” The 26-year-old has spent the last six months in LA working on Strange Angel, his first TV series gig, in the lead role of Jack

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Parsons, a rocket engineer/uncredited father of the US space programme/occultist/sex magick practitioner/possible Israeli spy/ employee of Howard Hughes/disciple of Aleister Crowley/close friend and love rival of L Ron Hubbard/actual real person. The show, which debuted on CBS All Access last month, is all but done, and Jack is ready to get back to his beloved Blessington, his fiancée of five years and his dog. “I love it man, just being down by the lake and having that space around me is amazing. It’s really good for my head, you know? It’s just a really nice environment where I can go down to my local and have a few pints and talk to people about tractors and motorbikes and stuff like that, rather than having to sit there and talk about movies all the time. “As much as I love talking about movies, believe you me!” he quickly adds. “I’m sure


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INTERVIEW

they’d tell you their ears are burned off with me talking about obscure independent films ...” It definitely wasn’t an obscure independent film that catapulted Reynor on to the world stage. After a paced and solid start in Ireland in TV, movies and short films – which included a Best Actor IFTA for Lenny Abrahamson’s What Richard Did in 2012 – he was, out of nowhere, suddenly cast as a lead in Michael Bay’s $1billion+ megablockbuster Transformers: Age of Extinction, and the world had no choice but to take notice. This year alone he will appear opposite James Franco, Zoë Kravitz and Dennis Quaid in sci-fi flick Kin; in the Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader

Ginsburg biopic On the Basis of Sex, and has a voiceover role in Mowgli, Andy Serkis’ take on Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book. “I love being here in LA but I think that, like, you can really easily get lost in the rat race and it doesn’t matter whether you’re an actor, whether you’re part of a crew or whatever. It’s really easy to become swept up in the culture of living to work rather than working to live. So for me coming out here, if I can do a job for six months, doing work that I feel is creatively gratifying, and making the money to live the lifestyle I want to live at home in Ireland, that’s great.” California does have its charms though. The weather is the obvious

Hot shot: Reynor – still sporting his Strange Angel moustache for our shoot – is a keen street photographer.

“You see it happening with lots of people – by merit of just being called out, your life is done.” 42 |

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advantage, he especially loves all the old movie theatres, and Jack concedes he has a really good group of friends in LA – although he’s very careful not to drop names. “They’re not famous when I’m with them!” he laughs when I ask if any are celebs. “Just the usual heads, people I’ve done films with ...” Hollywood, of course, has a seedier underside, and one that has been upturned recently by #MeToo and #TimesUp for the world to stare at. When I ask Jack if he has felt the effects of what is the biggest change to ever happen to the movie industry, he drops a couple of gears and begins to choose his words very carefully. “I think it’s really important the issue is addressed and the people who are behaving in this inappropriate way and who are taking advantage of people’s vulnerabilities are held to account for it,” he says carefully. “That is clearly something that’s worthwhile and that’s necessary in our entire society, not just this industry.” He slows his words even further: “I think that the danger is if the forum through which we hold these people to account is as volatile as social media ... we get into dangerous territory, where all of a sudden there’s kind of a culture of blaming people without any substance behind it. “There has to be some kind of integrity to the forum ... if this becomes a court of sensationalism on social media, it’s going to diminish the credibility of what the movement basically is. And that’s the big fear. That’s the big danger. You see it happening with lots of people – by merit of just being called out, your life is done. That’s really dangerous because what’s the knock-on effect of that in the rest of society then?” He summarises: “If people who have perpetrated these crimes are scared because they know they’ve done something wrong, then that’s good. I think that if people are walking around on the street going, ‘Jesus is somebody gonna accuse me of something?’ then there’s an issue. Then there’s a culture of fear.”


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INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF JACK REYNOR THE BAR MiniBar Hollywood “It’s cool, it feels like an old speakeasy or something. It’s got a nice mahogany interior and low lighting, a great whiskey selection and it’s chill. There’s not too many people so you can sit there and have a chat.” (6141 Franklin Ave, +1 323 798 4939; minibarhollywood.com) THE RESTAURANT

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anymore,” he points out. “I wonder if Harvey had still been making a lot of money for people ... would it have even come out?” Harvey, he tells me, is “not a nice guy, and yeah, I got that vibe off him. But no more than I get off a lot of other people out here. The amount of people I heard in this industry before this came out, who would talk about things Harvey had done, telling these stories like it was just a joke, that these were just his crazy antics ... And then the week that stuff came out, those same people were going, ‘Oh, how awful!’ They just did a complete 180 on it, so it was interesting to watch that.” It’s a sobering thought; Weinstein is the tip of the iceberg, and the rest of its dark and dangerous mass will remain hidden if the sea around it gets too wild. “And that’s what I’m saying: if this culture of blaming people is approached in an irresponsible way, and without the integrity to actually hold people to account who deserve this, efficiently and with a surefootedness, everybody is going to get away with everything. And the blowback, man, what will come back on the other side of it? It will be twice as bad. “I think that it will be worse than it ever was if the value of these movements is allowed to just diminish. There’ll be nothing to stop it the next time. “That’s Hollywood,” he adds. “But it’s the whole world too.”

THE LANDMARK

Amoeba Music “I love Amoeba. If you go upstairs, their collection of DVDs and Blu-rays is unbelievable. I’ve spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on Blu-rays since I got out here. I love curated collections of films. It’s an awesome, awesome place.” (6400 Sunset Blvd, +1 323 245 6400; amoeba.com)

THE HOMESICK SPOT “Blessington,

where I live. I just identify with it so much, I just feel like I belong there. I feel really lucky, actually, that I have such a sense of belonging somewhere. It keeps me really grounded. I love it down there, man, and I can’t wait to get home. And West Cork. And Limerick.”

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It’s a very sensitive subject to discuss, especially for any man, whose only delegated task in the current climate is “to listen”. We discuss the case of Matt Damon who was recently pilloried for suggesting there were degrees of sexual assault. Actresses rounded on him for trying to dictate to women whether or not they could feel victimised, when clearly that was never his intention. He wasn’t talking about the victims at all. He was merely asking that the likes of Ben Affleck not be thrown in the same cage as Harvey Weinstein. It is inevitable our conversation winds up with reference to the disgraced producer. Two of Jack’s films – Sing Street and Macbeth – were distributed by The Weinstein Company and he has spent time in Weinstein’s company too. But he also sees a very sinister scenario beyond Weinstein’s alleged crimes. “There’s a lot of people like Harvey Weinstein here,” he announces. “He has taken advantage and the stuff that he has allegedly done is despicable. But Harvey is the sacrificial lamb. It could’ve been any of them and he took the fall, and there’s a reason he took the fall when he did. “Put it this way: Donald Trump is still the president of the United States. There are a lot of lawsuits that women have filed against him, but it is within the interest of a very select group of people that he is where he is and that he stays there. Harvey’s company wasn’t making money for people

Figaro Bistro “Again, kind of a quiet spot but in Los Feliz. It’s a good little place, you can go in there and get some absinthe, a nice risotto.” (1802 N Vermont Ave, +1 323 662 1587; figarobistrot.com)


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DOCUMENTING

DUBLIN

Capturing the spirit of a city is a challenge that is as broad as it is interesting. We meet some of the people journaling the capital’s past and present. WORDS & PRODUCTION AMANDA KAVANAGH PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

H

obbies, by their very nature, go in and out of fashion. The word itself immediately conjures up images of trainspotters, stamp collectors, birdwatchers, quilters and scrapbookers, but the gamut runs far and wide. Much of the media we consume through the glare of our phones today – whether it’s social history bar reviewers, signage documentarians, creative profilers or photography projects – is down to passionate hobbyists. Behind such platforms are single-minded individuals, eager to spread the word about their consuming interests. Here we profile some of those driven to capture who and what makes their city

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of Dublin unique. For John Mahon of the online culture magazine The Locals, his motivation is as simple as “enjoying sharing things I like with other people”. For the anonymous pintmen on “a modern Irish drinking odyssey”, it’s part of “a concerted effort to visit unchartered boozers”. While for Emma Clark, recording the city’s signage has been a welcome break from a challenging PhD. Of course, for a few, documenting the city is more than a part-time passion. At weekly online and monthly print publisher Dublin InQuirer, Lois Kapila and Sam Tranum here discuss how they’re turning their long-form, civically engaging journalism into a thriving business.


@SARAHBOWIEILLUSTRATION

SARAH BOWIE

Recording daily life on Dublin Bus When you travel by any means of public transport five or six days a week, your list of bugbears can grow and grow. You would expect illustrator Sarah Bowie, who started sharing sketches from her bus commute late last year, to have more than one. “Yes. People putting their feet on seats, which is gross, and people putting their bag beside them when the bus is busy so no one else can sit down: ignorant. As for all the other stuff: noisy conversations, copious scrolling, drunken small talk, bring it on,” she says. “That’s what makes bus journeys interesting.” Sarah originally started sketching while on the buses, but people soon cottoned on. Now she spends the commute observing, taking down the odd note on her phone. Arriving at work early each day, she pulls out a Moleskine and a Platinum Carbon Ink fountain pen to draw the banal and bizarre. Sarah is enthusiastic about Dublin Bus as a means of transport. “I love it. The real-time app can be quite misleading and we could do with more cross-suburban connections but, for character and colour, Dublin Bus gets five stars from me,” she says. “I think when we’re all being chauffeured around in driverless cars, we’ll look back on buses with the same quaint appreciation we have now for stage coaches.” INSIDER DUBLIN “The different routes all have their own particular charm. My current one (which I won’t reveal!) is proving fruitful, with a nice mix of people of all different ages and backgrounds.”


PEOPLE | DOCUMENTING DUBLIN

@DUBLINBYPUB

ANONYMOUS Documenting the city’s pubs from an ordinary perspective A carpenter, an animator and a public servant walk into a bar. All come to the incorrect conclusion that, between them, they’d visited the majority of the pubs in the city. Then they start making a list. “We were soon rudely awakened to the fact that there were far more than we had thought, so we set ourselves the task of visiting all the pubs in the city,” says Pintman No. 1 of why they started @dublinbypub. Currently, they are bound by geography. Each pub must be in their designated catchment area of north to south between the Royal and Grand canals, and west to east from the North and South Circular Roads to the Irish Sea. Though it is Pintman No. 1 who writes the copy, he describes the reviews as a collaborative effort. “We’ve a DublinByPub WhatsApp

group that Pintman No. 3 rules with an iron fist whenever any of us stray off-topic.” Pintman No. 3 (not pictured; the trio’s identity further preserved by our canny photography), a selfdescribed “homesick emigrant” now living in France, notes how many bars on the Continent are not aesthetically nice places to be, while here, they are mostly inviting. “But besides all that, the best thing about Dublin pubs is the characters contained within; you’ll hear people lament the demise of The Dublin Character, but not us – we meet them out there in the pubs of the city every week and they are second to none, and by some distance too.” INSIDER DUBLIN “In choosing our top five pubs, sleep has been lost, productive work output has been sacrificed and allegiances challenged. In no particular order, the five that we agree on, if only for today, are: The Lord Edward, Kavanagh’s (The Gravediggers), The Oval, Fallon’s (The Capstan Bar) and The Long Hall.”

@DUBLINGHOSTSIGNS

EMMA CLARK

Capturing Dublin’s old signage In documenting the city, Emma likes to include a wide variety of signage. However, “I do try to differentiate between traditional ghost signs, which are handpainted advertisements on brick, and old signs in general, which on my site can range from floor mosaics to stone-carved and fascia signs.” Her rule is that she will include a sign on the site only if it is a remnant of a past business or the past purpose of a building. “Despite the fact that there is a signage policy in Dublin, it does not appear to be enforced at all,” Emma laments, but she encourages flâneurs to look above street level, particularly around Capel Street, Thomas Street, James’ Street and The Liberties. 48 |

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“Dublin 8 is undergoing so much change at the moment. Every time I go there, I notice something else which has disappeared, been demolished or covered up.” Emma lauds the preservation of Doran’s on George’s Street and the Morris Wallpaper Stores on Talbot Street, while the Metro Burger sign on the Screen Cinema site on Hawkins Street is a personal favourite. “Down the line, I would love to open or be involved with a Dublin sign museum along the lines of the Neon Museum in Las Vegas or Berlin’s Buchstabenmuseum.” INSIDER DUBLIN “I love the ‘Well-Known Boot & Shoe Retailer’ ghost sign on Parnell Street. As you come down North Great George’s Street, it’s right in front of you. It’s a really old ghost sign with nice, even lettering. The only thing I’ve been able to find out about this one is that it was called King & Co. I’d love to know more.”


PEOPLE | DOCUMENTING DUBLIN

THELOCALS.IE

JOHN MAHON Shining a light on creative Dublin As founder of online culture magazine The Locals, John Mahon makes it his mission to profile interesting people and independent businesses in the city. Previously, John set up and ran The Bernard Shaw bar in Portobello, which became a sort of creative hub for the city. “My favourite part of the job was giving people an opportunity, who thought they weren’t ready yet or didn’t have an outlet, to do an idea, be it music or food or art, and taking some commercial pressure off them. When I left The Bernard Shaw, I missed that, so The Locals was created to fill that void.” Personal highlights include a story on the

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farm at the National College of Art and Design on Thomas Street. “It was just such a surprise that there was this fully functioning vegetable garden going on behind a hoarding. And the one about Hang Dai [bar and restaurant] on Camden Street too, between the music, soundsystem, the concept, the guys and the execution, it is all so interesting.” All features on the site have a personal story at their centre. John looks at each person’s energy, approach or initiative. “It’s very easy to fall into the trap of ‘that’s great for Dublin, we’re only a small city’ but I think any of the people featured on The Locals would find success in any city, they just happen to be in Dublin.” INSIDER DUBLIN “Get out of the city. Get the DART and walk from Sutton around Howth Head. You’ll end up in Howth having a pint. It’s at least a ten-kilometre walk and has amazing scenery.”


@THEDOORSOFDUBLIN

ELEANOR COSTELLO

An Instagram account and hashtag Art historian Eleanor Costello was studying at Trinity College when she started up her now 29,000 follower-strong Instagram account, which has the simple aim of sharing beautiful doors from the capital. At the beginning, it was her walk into college, dotted with Georgian doors, that became mainstays on the grid. “Learning about the social history of buildings in college made me even more fascinated by squares like Merrion and Fitzwilliam, but it also encouraged me to wander around places in the city I had never been before.” Now working at Kettle’s Yard in Cambridge, UK, much of the account is curated through #thedoorsofdublin, while some imagery is captured during Eleanor’s regular trips back home. “Living away from Ireland has definitely given me a new perspective on the place. I’m ten times more patriotic than I’ve ever been before. I am so proud of anything great that comes out of Dublin and the country,” Eleanor says. “I definitely took a lot of the best things about the city for granted. Being by the sea is something that I will always miss. Many things that I disliked about the city are now positives to me; the fact that everyone knows each other is now endearing and wonderful.” INSIDER DUBLIN “It seems odd to call Temple Bar an insider tip but it does have some very interesting and colourful doors: The Green Building on Temple Lane South is a favourite. I also love Henrietta Street, the earliest Georgian street in Dublin.”

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PEOPLE | DOCUMENTING DUBLIN

DUBLIN INQUIRER

LOIS KAPILA AND SAM TRANUM A weekly online newspaper and monthly print title The founders of a city newspaper, whose bread and butter are housing, planning and transport, are a surprise to some. “We went to a party recently and some guy goes ‘Oh, I thought you’d be a 60-year-old white man’. I didn’t really know what to say to that,” laughs Lois. Lois and Sam married about eight years ago, after meeting at a party in Kyrgyzstan and due to immigration difficulties, found a middle ground in Dublin. “We meant to be here a few months and, five years later, here we are. We ended up really liking it,” says Sam. Being non-natives to the city has its advantages. “There is a benefit to being a journalist and being an outsider,” continues Sam. “You don’t have all the connections necessarily, but you don’t have the conflicts either. We don’t have many friends here so we’re not beholden to anyone.” In addition to Dublin InQuirer’s watchdog stories, there is also a focus on “who we share the city with”, explains Lois. The couple cite a long list of Dublin artists who are exciting them at the moment, from Conor McGarrigle and Francis Matthews to musicians Lankum, Loah and Landless. “In other cities we’ve lived in, everything is about politics and making money. It’s nice to find people here doing things just for the love it,” says Sam. “You see a lot of that in Dublin.” INSIDER DUBLIN “Every third Thursday of each month at Marrowbone Books, at the bottom of Meath Street in Dublin 8, we co-host a music event. It’s a cosy night in a brilliant bookshop, and you get to hear a great mix of really talented, really weird people play music.”

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GALWAY

Whirl

Ireland’s City of the Tribes has year-round allure but especially during the summer, when festival fever grips tourists and residents alike. WORDS ALAN McMONAGLE PHOTOGRAPHS JO MURPHY


I

like to stand halfway along Wolfe Tone bridge on one of those clear, early-summer Galway evenings. The sun is dipping, shadows drift across the Claddagh and the city seems suspended between the hustle and bustle of daytime and its panoply of after-dark allure. Better again if the West wind has called it a day, the swans are out and the harbour water appears as a sheet of glass reflecting the colours of the Claddagh and the Long Walk. Best of all if it happens to be one of those rare occasions when the river is high, the tide is in and the hushed water is more or less flush with the pier. Part of the pier – the part at the Spanish Arch – dog-legs out into the water and if you catch it at the right angle from the bridge, it appears that anyone stepping along this part of the pier is walking on water. The illusion goes a long way towards encapsulating Galway’s magic, its charm, its energy – something that cannot at first glance be explained but can be very much experienced. Because there is a particular energy in Galway these days. A sense that something significant is about to happen or, indeed, already has happened. The city has been chosen as one of the two 2020 European capitals of culture (along with Rijeka in Croatia). In December 2014, it was designated a UNESCO City of Film, one of only six cities in the world to achieve the much sought-after status. While in 2012, the city hosted the grand finale of the Volvo Ocean “round-the-world” yacht race, an event that more than tripled the city’s population. Of course, the real story is that “something” is happening all the time. From spring on, the city offers a smorgasbord of festivals that caters for pretty much everything on any budding visitor’s wish list. April’s Cúirt International Festival of Literature (cuirt.ie) leads into May’s theatre festival (galwaytheatrefestival.com) that leads

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into the Early Music Festival (galwayearlymusic.com) that leads into the Film Fleadh (July 10-15; galwayfilmfleadh. com). And the Film Fleadh into the 14 glorious days that mark the annual Galway International Arts Festival (July 16-29; giaf.ie). The problem is not one of trying to find something to do, more of finding time to pack in a little of everything that is on offer. Galway is a living, breathing organism of a city. An infectious energy emanates from its intricate and compact spaces. The free-spirit charm seduces. The best way to allow it seep inside you is by taking to the streets and letting yourself be quickly waylaid. Begin, say, at the higher end near Eyre Square and work your way ever-slowly downtown, towards the aforementioned harbour. Take the circuitous route via Mary Street and Abbeygate Street,

Opening pages, left, bright colours on Galway’s High Street, and right, on your bike, lovely blooms on the streets. Clockwise from top, the gleeful Gleewood busking on High Street; a meandering waterside walk from the Cathedral; an extensive tome collection at Charlie Byrne’s bookshop.


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DESTINATION | GALWAY CITY

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and join Shop Street at what is locally known as Lynch’s Castle (but houses AIB). Make it your business to find out who Lynch was and what he did to his son. Pause for a coffee (try to snare an outside table at McCambridge’s: mccambridges.com) from where you can take it all in: street theatre, performance poets, buskers, magicians, puppeteers, human statues, face painters and sign holders pointing you in myriad directions – not one of which will take you very far off-piste. Make time for the narrow funnel of activity that is Market Alley, for example – especially early on Saturday, when traders and craftspeople ply everything from art to knitwear. Look out, too, for the Saturday morning “coffee concerts” inside nearby St Nicholas’ Church (stnicholas.ie), the country’s largest Medieval parish church still in everyday use, itself well worth a noodle around. At the end of Shop Street, I recommend veering left at the fork, and stepping along High Street – pitstop: Griffin’s Bakery (griffinsbakery.com) and/or Murphy’s ice cream (murphysicecream.ie) – as far as the crossroads. You are now entering the so-called Latin Quarter and here you must pause again. See the blue-and-yellow-painted public house on the corner to your right, where all the interesting people seem to gather. This is Tigh Neachtain (tighneachtain.com), a place of mythic reputation and pulsing with character. Go inside, treat yourself to a lap of the warren-like interior, order a black beer, sit, sip, eavesdrop in on the nearest conversation, join in. As soon as your glass is empty order another, take it outside, grab a chair, sit, sip, eavesdrop in on the ... you get the drift.

Opposite, clockwise from top left, dusk at the Spanish Arch; swans basking in the evening sun; the venerable Crane Bar; all docked up at the harbour; the view down Cross Street; a handful of Murphy’s ice cream; before curtain call at Druid theatre; Davi Hora from the Galway Community Circus walks on water; Mattie (“Matt the Hat”) at Tigh Neachtain’s pub. This page, top, diving boards at Sathill and, above, Molly O’Reilly and Clyro enjoying the city.

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DESTINATION | GALWAY CITY

From here you are a spit away from an eclectic array of establishments: Charlie Byrne’s bookshop, An Taibhdhearc Theatre, The Hall of the Red Earl and the home of Nora Barnacle (aka Mrs James Joyce). Continue down Quay Street, with its restaurants, coffee shops, bars and never-a-dull-moment characters. Duck down Druid Lane for a glimpse of the renowned theatre that first introduced the world to, amongst others, the works of a very young Martin McDonagh (druid.ie). Steps away is the newly opened art-house cinema, Pálás (palas.ie), a striking architectural accomplishment and a well-worth-the-wait addition to the city’s cultural life. Near the bottom of Quay Street, grab a carry-out fish and chips from McDonagh’s (mcdonaghs.net) and park yourself at one of the outside bench-tables. Here the street opens out into the harbour, site of the Galway City Museum (galwaycitymuseum.ie) and Spanish Arch, and where Christopher Columbus briefly stopped while deliberating the how and when of a more famous odyssey. Start across the bridge, towards Galway’s “West End”, and remember to pause halfway. Here the river greets the sea. The swans may be out. And if you’re in luck, the full-sail hookers (traditional fishing boats) will be strutting their stuff across the bay. You may even be treated to the spectacle of someone walking on water. And you’ll know for certain the city has charmed you. CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND SIXT FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

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Clockwise from top, Salthill Promenade in all its glory; Sinéad Ann Pokall strumming on Shop Street; overlooking the Cathedral from the canal and a fish ‘n’ chip feast from McDonagh’s.


AOIFE DOOLEY

DESTINATION | GALWAY CITY

EAT TAPAS There is great eating in Galway these days. Cross the river (either of Wolfe Tone or O’Brien’s bridges) and discover some of the newer restaurants. Deli La Tasca offers an authentic Spanish experience in the heart of Galway’s “West End”. High tables and window stools. Cosy, relaxed, friendly. Extensive tapas and wine menu. Try the roast veal cheeks and Andalucían spinach. (1 Dominick Street Upper, 085 108 2115) OCEANIC Offering freshly caught and locally sourced seafood, Oscar’s Seafood Bistro is a classy dining experience situated across the road from Deli La Tasca. The ever-evolving menu is dependent on the season, what is best at market and on fish landed on the day. Check their blog for updates. (Dominick Street Upper, 091 582 180; oscarsseafoodbistro.com) DOLCE VITA Another recent addition to Galway’s food scene is

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Mona Lisa. As the name suggests, it’s an Italian affair and serves a wide range of pizza and pasta dishes. Try the Sardi pasta (actually, try anything, it’s all really good). (Sea Road, 091 502 928; monalisa-galway.com)

DRINK CRAIC Outside, inside, at the bar, within the snugs, around the back – it doesn’t matter at Tigh Neachtain’s. Spend some late afternoon/early evening time in this watering hole that probably hasn’t changed all that much in its hundred-odd years of existence. Try to catch some live music in the front bar and revel in the alwayslively conversation. (17 Cross Street, 091 568 820; tighneachtain.com) BOHO The Black Gate is a recently opened cultural space steps away from the Town Hall theatre. There’s an evening food menu, jazz, film club and staff so welcoming you’ll feel bad for not staying longer. Ask the owner to

recommend a wine, some music and then ask how the place got its name. (14 Francis Street, 085 220 5049; blackgate.ie)

in the making of Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express. B&B from €322. (Glenlo Abbey Hotel, 091 519 600; glenloabbeyhotel.ie)

DIGI-DETOX Put away your smartphones, leave the laptops behind: The Secret Garden is a tea shop and café with a very chilled-out ambience. Check out the gallery of images on the website and find a way to try some of the many, many herbal teas on offer. (4 William Street West, 085 758 3927; secretgardengalway.com)

SLEEP

CONVENIENCE Located a stone’s throw from Eyre Square, the fourstar Galmont Hotel (formerly Radisson Blu) boasts 262 guest rooms, award-winning dining, an underground spa and thermal suite. I also have it on good authority that at approximately 9.30pm every Friday and Saturday a wonderful pianist strikes up in Coopers Bar & Lounge. Rooms from €215. (The Galmont Hotel, Lough Atalia Road, 091 538 300; thegalmont.com)

PLUSH Located four kilometres outside the city and perched on the rise of a 56-hectare estate that fronts on to Lough Corrib, Glenlo Abbey has been welcoming guests since 1740. The jewel in its muchadorned crown is the Pullman Restaurant, which comprises two carriages from the original Orient Express. Dating from 1927, they served on the Paris to St Petersburg route and one of the pair was used

BOUTIQUE Located in the Latin Quarter, The House Hotel has 40 rooms and a well-regarded restaurant (The Bistro). Afternoon tea; brunch; bar bites. Everything, from its inviting lobby couches to one of the city’s favourite cocktail bars, oozes comfort, intimacy, style and atmosphere. Rooms from €175. (Spanish Parade, 091 538 900; thehousehotel.ie)


On the

WATERFRONT The beach communities south of Venice are everything Los Angeles is not: cycle-friendly, down-to-earth and non-spectacular – the perfect antidote to one of the planet’s most overwhelmingly attention-seeking places. WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS LIZ KUBALL


DESTINATION | LA 'HOODS

L

A is growing and gentrifying at a faster rate than any other North American city. Inglewood, home to the Bloods, the Crips and Rodney King’s infamous beating, is now where white couples take their first steps on the property ladder. Boyle Heights, the kind of place taxis didn’t even attempt pick-ups in the 1990s, is where you’ll find doe-eyed Devendra Banhart lookalikes, and Instagram poets drinking La Croix and walking their rescue dogs of an evening. Their status anxiety may be high but they’ve no fear for their personal safety. And Venice Beach, birthplace of the slacker, the Dude and the hacky sack bro, is called Silicon Beach these days because of the number of tech startups locating there, replacing the beach bums. The Dude may abide, but with rent this high, he’s probably abiding in his car. They flip homes faster than they flip off drivers in this city, so it’s comforting to know that there is a part of Los Angeles where time has 66 |

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stood, comparatively, still. South of Venice Beach, the communities of Playa del Rey, El Segundo and Manhattan Beach are a window into a fading world of locals, blue-collar workers, surfers, mom and pop stores and a population who may own irons but they certainly aren’t using them. The areas are connected by the Marvin Braude Bike Path, a track that cuts the beach in two for nearly 30 blissful, sea-sprayed, Californian kilometres. You may tell yourself, you’ve seen LA, but you haven’t until you’ve seen it from the squeaky saddle of a rented bicycle. The first stop on your way is Marina del Rey, where Dylan McKay lived on a yacht for a brief period in Beverly Hills 90210.

Previous spread, treading the boards on Manhattan Beach pier. Clockwise from above left, bird spotting in the Ballona Wetlands; people watching at The Kettle, Manhattan Beach and salt-of-the-earth surf bar, the Prince O’ Whales in Playa del Rey.


DESTINATION | LA 'HOODS

Berth tourism, above – yacht central at Marina del Rey. Below left, Parmesan zucchini at The Kettle bar; below middle, grab a booth at Killer Café; below right, table tennis at the Prince O’ Whales. Opposite page, clockwise from top, a shamrock sighting at the Prince O’ Whales; Jasmine Williams of Pages: A Bookstore; pop culture murals at The Kinney hotel in Venice.

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

You too, can relive that 1990s dream by hiring a boat from Blue Water Sailing (bluewatersailing. com) and embarking on a tour of the bay. Next to the marina is an inconspicuous piece of marshland called the Ballona Wetlands, a refuge for birdlife in LA. And not only birds, at night you can hear the drunk cackles of coyotes and the bark of raccoons coming from the wetlands too. South of the wetlands and continuing along the bike path, you meet Playa del Rey, a town where clichés go to die. The bars around here have names like the Prince O’ Whales, Mo’s Place and the Harbor Room. At the Prince O’ Whales (see “Drink” on page 72) karaoke night is on Thursdays. Salty looking men with beards and bellies, singing Pete Seeger, compete with the students from the Otis Art School singing Cardi B. Which side are you on, boys? Further south, the bike trail shoots beneath the flight path of LAX and the famous surf beaches at El Segundo. LA beaches can be cold. Surfers up in Malibu wear hoods and booties for most of the year. But down south, in slightly eerie proximity to the Los Angeles water and power plant, the sea, and beaches, are a good five degrees warmer. Locals joke that

it’s the hot water being pumped from the plant. The surfers have taken the joke a step further and call the adjacent wave “[poo] pipe” ... You’ll recognise Manhattan Beach when you arrive there. The pier, extending out into the Pacific towards the Catalina Islands is one of the most filmed features in Los Angeles. It’s where Keanu Reeves buys his surfboard in Point Break and Mel Gibson has his home in Tequila Sunrise. Californian surfing was invented here in the 1940s, people will tell you. The conditions are less gnarly than up north, so if you are going to hire a surf board, this is probably the best place to do so. One Wave Surf School (onewavesurf.com) can help you get your toes wet. Californians, especially those who live by the beach, don’t have the most literary reputation, but one of the nicest bookstores in town is a place called Pages (pagesabookstore.com) in Manhattan Beach. The bookstore is renowned in the South Bay and hosts regular reading events. On Mondays a children’s reading group meet in the bookstore. Attend or avoid, depending on your tolerance for little folk. Manhattan Beach is also famous for its malls and independent stores. Manhattan Denim

Fly return to LOS ANGELES for 50,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

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DESTINATION | LA 'HOODS

Dude school – young surfers take to the waters at Marina del Rey, above. Below left, Jeff Byron, general manager at The Kettle and below right, Pages bookstore not only has print aplenty but it also hosts regular author events and a book club.

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(manhattandenim.com) is a jeans store that doesn’t want you to leave. They serve beer and show games on big screens and, just a few blocks inland, Surf Concepts (surfconcepts.com) was Manhattan Beach’s oldest surviving surf shop until just last month when the wrecking ball of progress meant the folks who ran it since 1989 lost their lease – bummer. Casual is a word you’ll hear overused in this part of LA. The restaurants, the pace, the bars and the people you meet remind you of a comfortable sneaker. Locals have their pictures on the wall in Uncle Bill’s Pancake House (see “Eat” on page 72) and if you stay here long enough you’ll have your own coffee mug behind the counter in the famous Café Milan. If you stay even longer, you’ll notice a transition: your wardrobe will change until it’s made up of nothing but quick-drying fabrics. Your shoes will no longer require lacing and your linguistic capacity will devolve: good news, bad news or simple inquiries, your response will be the same drawn-out, melodious appellation: dude!


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LA COAST ESSENTIALS with Dynamite is at the very least the city’s number one destination restaurant. The team of “culinary ninjas” create playful, handcrafted and soulful fish dishes in this bright, modern addition to Manhattan’s old faithful food scene. Reservations aren’t normally needed in this part of the city, here they are. (1148 Manhattan Ave, Manhattan Beach, +1 310 893 6299; eatfwd.com)

DRINK EAT VOYEUR I suppose you have to like pancakes to eat at Uncle Bill’s Pancake House because they come, as a side, with almost everything you order. People do though and that’s why Uncle Bill’s, opened in 1961, is one of the oldest restaurants in Los Angeles, below. It’s also one of the best places for people watching. Outside, perched on the hill, there isn’t much that can happen in Manhattan Beach that you won’t know about. (1305 Highland Ave Manhattan Beach, +1 310 545 5177; unclebills.net) HUMBLE AS Phorage is the most inconspicuous restaurant in Los Angeles. Located in the back of a corner store in Playa del Rey, they make the best Vietnamese pho and bánh mì in the whole South Bay area. You eat, surrounded by a milk fridge, a wine rack and an aisle full of cleaning products and beach toys. No shirt, no shoes and you’ll probably still get service. (303 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey, +1 310 823 0183; asap.phoragela.com) BIVALVES An oyster bar that might just be the best seafood restaurant in Los Angeles, Fishing

SALTY The Los Angeles Times recently described the Prince O’ Whales as the kind of bar you don’t find in LA anymore. There are no mixologists or valet parking at the Prince; there are ashtrays on the patio and, if you sit at the bar alone for longer than a minute, someone will invariably ask you where you’re from and what ship you sailed in on. (335 Culver Blvd, Playa del Rey, +1 310 823 9826; princeowhales.com) WATERSIDE Killer Café is a concept diner on the water that stays open 24 hours a day. If you watch the Netflix show Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee, this is where Jerry takes Jim Carrey, and Jim jumps on the table to drop sweetener into his coffee. Readers, who aren’t A-listers, probably shouldn’t repeat this scene. (4213 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, +1 310 578 2250; killershrimp.com) ICONIC “Love All People. Cook Them Tasty Food.” That’s the motto of The Kettle, a restaurant and bar that stays open 24 hours in Manhattan Beach. The Kettle is a South Bay icon that many people in the area consider their second home. It’s been open since 1973 and getting a drink here after midnight or

before breakfast is a well-worn tradition. (1138 Highland Ave, Manhattan Beach, +1 310 545 8511; thekettle.net)

SLEEP PLAYFUL Some hotels are for sleeping and others are platforms for adults to regress into childhood. Not that this is a bad thing. The Kinney, left, painted in primary-coloured murals, has fire pits, ping-pong tables, Instagram backdrops, a swimming pool shaped like a kidney bean and beach cruisers to rent. Rooms, because they have them too, start from $270. (737 West Washington Blvd, Venice, +1 310 821 4455; thekinneyvenicebeach.com) REFRESHING The Foghorn Harbor Inn, is a small (by American standards) family-run hotel notable for its proximity to two West Coast staples: the beach and the Cheesecake Factory restaurant. Rooms have a kitsch, sea cabin feel to them, with small kitchenettes and French windows and balconies overlooking the beach. The Foghorn is a breath of fresh sea air from the many chain-hotels in the area. Rooms from $150. (4140 Vía Marina, Marina del Rey, +1 310 823 4626; foghornhotel.com) HOT STUFF Well named for paler travellers, Shade Hotel – “It’s cooler here” – is the only boutique hotel in Manhattan Beach. Less than 15 minutes from the airport and about a minute to the beach, Shade, with its yoga classes, DJ nights, pool and restaurant is the perfect LA home for those who would rather not economise. Rooms from $399. (1221 N Valley Dr, Manhattan Beach, +1 310 546 4995; shadehotel.com)

SMART TIPS Escaping LAX? The Ocean Express Trolley is available to guests of certain hotels; a taxi to Manhattan Beach costs about $25 and an Uber/Lyft won’t cost more than $15. Pedego Rentals have the best-maintained electric bikes on the west side of the city. Owners Mike and Jennifer are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet on your trip. pedegoelectricbikes.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES daily.

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10 BEST BEACH CLUBS Yvonne Gordon has sussed the coolest sun loungers, cocktails and sunset DJ sets on the sands.

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MONACO MONTE-CARLO BEACH CLUB

Beach clubs are not just for lounging on day beds – at the Monte-Carlo Beach Club, you can take to the skies for parasailing, admiring Monaco and some of the Côte d’Azur’s most stunning coastal scenery from the air while flying over it. Also on offer is jet-skiing, tubing,

fly-fishing and fly boarding (standing on a small propelled board). For something more relaxing, hire one of the beach club’s boats and cruise along the coast for a few hours. (Avenue Princesse Grace, Principauté de Monaco, +377 98 06 52 63; monte-carlo-beach.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice up to ten times per week.

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SMART EDIT | BEST BEACH CLUBS

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USA NIKKI BEACH

Experiencing the glamorous beach scene on South Beach is a must-do for any visit to Miami, so check out the landmark club Nikki Beach in the South of Fifth neighbourhood for food, cocktails and relaxing in a sandy setting under the palm trees. Set on the oceanfront, there’s a restaurant, garden café and nightclub – have brunch, rent a luxurious daybed or club the night away. There’s even free Wi-Fi if you really must catch up on work … (One Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, +1 305 538 1111; nikkibeach.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Miami three times per week.

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ITALY NABILAH BEACH CLUB Start your Neapolitan day here with breakfast on a poolside sunbed, and then either relax in one of the two pools or on the beach. If you’re up for something more active, have a go at beach volleyball or take a kayak tour of the area’s archaeological treasures before tucking into a fresh seafood lunch in the beach-side restaurant. Green areas and a Roman ruin add to the club’s relaxing daytime vibe; after sunset, things liven up with a DJ set. (Via Spiaggia Romana 15, Bacoli, Naples, +39 339 693 1169; nabilah.it)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Naples daily.

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FRANCE PLAGE BEAU RIVAGE You’ll find all the elements of the best beach clubs here in Nice – a private beach, sun loungers under umbrellas, food and drinks service, a restaurant, a relaxing Zen area, cocktails, a resident DJ, a Mediterranean view. Of course, this being set right on Nice’s promenade and on the Côte d’Azur, you’ll also find oodles of style and polish, so make sure to bring your best swimwear and sunnies and get set for some discreet peoplewatching. (107 Quai des États-Unis, Nice, +33 492 004 680; plagenicebeaurivage.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice up to ten times per week.


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GREECE ISLAND CLUB RESTAURANT If you’re not hitting the Greek islands, this chic enclave on the Athens Riviera (around 25 kilometres from both Athens city and airport) is the next best place to cool off on a hot summer’s evening. Frozen cocktails, Mediterranean flavours, dance parties and cool tunes are the order of the day – arrive by road or, as the celebrities do, by yacht or helicopter. Who needs the Greek islands? (Sounio Avenue, 16672, Varkiza, +30 210 965 3563; islandclubrestaurant.gr)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Athens three times per week.

SPAIN EL CHIRINGUITO

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The Puente Romano resort’s luxurious beach club on Marbella’s golden mile is the place to come for either a long Andalucían-style lunch on the shaded deck or for a fun Sunday session, watching the sun set while dancing to club tunes. Food includes everything from paella to espetos – fish skewered and grilled over hot coals – delicious when accompanied by a coco chilli mojito or a wine cobbler. (Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso von Hohenlohe, Marbella, +34 952 820 900; puenteromano.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Málaga up to 22 times per week, from Belfast daily, from Cork nine times per week, and from Shannon three times per week.

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CROATIA BANJE BEACH Located just outside the walls of the Old Town and on one of Dubrovnik’s few sandy beaches, Banje Beach Club is a relaxing place to spend a day either resting on a sun lounger, luxuriating in the warm waters of the Adriatic, tucking into the restaurant’s seafood or just admiring the views of the city walls and over to Lokrum Island. By night, stylish partygoers mingle indoors and out over cocktails. (Frana Supila 10/B, Dubrovnik, +385 20 412 220; banjebeach.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Dubrovnik daily.

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SMART EDIT | BEST BEACH CLUBS

RAD BOSSELMAN

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USA PARADISE COVE In Malibu you’ll find the quintessential Californian beach restaurant and club. Paradise Cove is a relaxed beach café where you can book a sun lounger, a double beach bed with an umbrella for the day or, for a small gathering, rent a private terrace with daybeds, umbrellas and ice-filled coolers, all while relaxing to views of the Pacific. Ocean-themed house specialities include clam chowder, she-crab soup and shrimp balague – and try one of the fruity cocktails with Whaler’s Dark Rum. (28128 Pacific Coast Highway Malibu, California; +1 310 457 2503; paradisecovemalibu.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to LA daily.

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FRANCE LA PAILLOTE BAMBOU

If breakfasting on the sands beside the Mediterranean, tucking into lunchtime tapas, socialising on the wooden sundeck or sinking afternoon cocktails on a lounge-bed are on your wish list, spend the day at this snazzy club, 20 kilometres from Montpellier in La Grande Motte. Cocktails are based on the four elements – the spring breeze has elderflower liqueur, jasmine, cucumber and prosecco or try a refreshing passion fruit iced tea. Oysters and seafood platters are a house speciality and, for the ultimate relaxation, there’s also a spa. (Routes des Plages, Le Grand Travers, La Grande Motte, +33 467 56 7380; lapaillotebambou.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Montpellier three times per week.

MALLORCA PUROBEACH

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Set on a tiny peninsula off Palma on the island of Mallorca, with sea views, food, two bars, a terrace, lounge and spa treatments – and the tagline an “oasis of happiness” – this is the club of all beach clubs and one Mediterranean hangout where you simply must arrive by boat. The tough decision is where to reserve your teak sunbed: on the rooftop oasis, by the pool or facing the sea … (Calle Pagell 1, Cala Estancia, Palma de Mallorca, +34 971 744 744; purobeach.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Palma daily, and from Cork three times per week.

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Alternative AMSTERDAM Discover a futuristic metropolis, rich in off-beat culture and ecological advancement. WORDS MANCHÁN MAGAN PHOTOGRAPHS CONOR O’LEARY

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DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM

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love it when a city startles you, upending your preconceptions and leaving you awe-struck and bewildered. It happened to me recently in Amsterdam, where instead of encountering the Dutch-gabled canal houses and wooden windmills I expected, I found myself in an entirely different city – the most invigorating and futuristic place I could imagine. It was still Amsterdam, of course, but a new 21st-century Amsterdam built across the river from the 17th-century canal rings that form a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the city centre. Over the course of 20 years, artists, creative designers, sustainability pioneers and eco-architects have used the lax or non-existent planning laws to transform a wasteland polluted by a century of shipbuilding and chemical manufacturing into a vibrant urban landscape, now considered the largest cultural breeding ground in the Netherlands, and even Europe. The cornerstone is NDSM (ndsm.nl), a complex of enormous shipbuilding hangers and slipways that house 200

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artists and designers, including regular flea markets, festivals and exhibitions. Surrounding it are student accommodation blocks made of shipping containers and radically refurbished warehouses housing NGOs and design/media companies. It has evolved gradually since 1999, when a band of pioneers, from skaters to theatre producers, took on the task of redeveloping 90 hectares of shipyard, encompassing two kilometres of riverbank. On the waterside where the NDSM ships once launched there’s now a beach bar and restaurant made of stacked shipping containers, called Pllek (pllek.nl), with loungers and Buddha bags laid out on the strand. The furniture is of salvaged maritime objects and the food is organic

Previous pages, left, Wouter Dijkstra, director and founder of trac.fm, a custom-built online platform, and right, a raised walkway in De Cuevel. Clockwise from above, graffiti is extensive in NDSM; Italian designer Daniela Buonvino upcycles old beer kegs into beautiful lights; media centre Pakhuis de Zwijger.


Clockwise from above, Wynnm Murphy playing a concert in De Ceuvel in a refurbished boat; NDSM-based Italian artist Simone Belli’s paint-splattered shoe; horsing around in NDSM; foliage outside the studio of Maarten Visser, a bespoke intrument-maker. Opposite, Pllek is a creative hangout at the NDSM shipyard, where food is locally sourced and a manmade beach is out front; artist Dennis Mulde, who also works out of NDSM; greenhouses at Mediamatic playing different genres of music to see its effect on plant growth.

Fly return to AMSTERDAM for 9.000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM


and local. There are regular A biomass gasifier and wormery gigs and yoga sessions overlooking recycle other waste. the water. Innovation is everywhere in A little further south is an even Amsterdam but often tucked inside more radical settlement called non-descript buildings such as the De Ceuvel (deceuvel.nl), made of Der Ruimte traffic control tower old pier timbers and dilapidated (cafederuimte.nl), which is home to houseboats. It’s part of an a collective of brewers, woodexperiment in sustainable urbanism workers, filmmakers and regular jazz that began when the city offered this and film events, not to mention a particularly polluted shipyard to “Sauna Caravan” hosting music gigs anyone who dared take it on. every Sunday night. A group of young entrepreneurs All of this innovation and dragged rotten barges onto the land alternative thinking began in squats and retrofitted them into studios in the old part of the city. Some and offices, all raised off the polluted of the original 1960s hubs are still ground, with wooden walkways active with donation-based canteens linking them. Rushes and reeds were (see “Eat”, page 88), and there are planted to absorb the toxins, which wonderfully zany community spaces within a decade should thoroughly such as the Odessa Barge (odessa. cleanse the soil. The on-site bar and amsterdam), a house boat moored restaurant looks like a desert island at the Eastern docklands that hosts shelter, with old rowboats as benches regular yoga, ecstatic dance and and tables on rafts that are reached music gigs, which are alcohol-free, by way of floating pontoon bridges. with low-cost organic vegan meals It’s a model of a “circular economy”, and free access to the hot tub and in that it produces its own energy sauna on the roof. and recycles its waste, using In terms of culture, Mediamatic phosphates extracted from urine to (mediamatic.net) is one of feed fish in an aquaponics system, Amsterdam’s most ecological and which in turn feeds vegetable beds. offbeat institutions. It’s devoted AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM

to the art, technology, food and science of decomposition, with exhibitions and events concerning fungi, yeasts, bacteria and microorganisms. Located in a greenhouse and warehouses on the waterfront, its café is based on an intriguing array of fermented, ie pleasantly rotting, food and drink. They are currently insulating their exhibition barn with the mushroom roots that are a waste product of their brewery. If the concept of reimagining cities is of interest, check out Pakhuis de Zwijger (dezwijger.nl), a four-storey cultural space that hosts talks and events day and night on making cities more inclusive, adaptable and affordable. Or, to experience it more directly, check if there is a BankjesCollectief (Bench Collective) event happening nearby, in which citizens adopt a public or private bench and host events at them, such as bench storytelling sessions, clothes swaps or salsa classes. There are 770 benches registered in the city and chances are there’ll be some activity happening at one near you (bankjescollectief.nl). All these sites will draw you away from the more crowded tourist areas, and while you mightn’t get the classic postcard image of the city, you will certainly be intrigued, perhaps even enthralled, by insights from the cutting edge of future city-making. 86 |

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Clockwise from top left, Maarten Visser is a bespoke intrument-maker, adapting instruments for people who have been injured; Scottish artist Daniel Mullen, an Amsterdam-based abstract-architectural painter working from his studio in NDSM; ship-shape at Pllek; greenhouse slogans give good advice.


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DESTINATION | AMSTERDAM

AMSTERDAM ESSENTIALS STAY HISTORIC Sir Albert Hotel is a former 19th-century diamond factory ideally situated near the treasures of the Museumplein. As a boutique hotel with lashings of attitude and swagger, it fits in perfectly to the chic and vibrant surroundings of the De Pijp district. It even has a think-tank space, designed to spark moments of innovation and ingenuity. Rooms from €189. (Albert Cuypstraat 2-6, +31 20 305 3020; designhotels.com) SLEEK A retro design hotel with Coco-Mat eco-beds and an industrial feel, Hotel De Hallen is located in a former unsightly tram depot in Amsterdam’s Oud-West, which has been transformed into a centre for local goods, arts and culture. There’s a vibrant market every weekend that sells the most cutting-edge Amsterdam-made beers, bikes, bags, books, bottles, etc. Rooms from €155. (Bellamyplein 47, +31 20 820 8670; hoteldehallen.com) MUCK IN Banjaert is a “doit-yourself” hotel entirely run

by volunteers on ecological principles, in Wijk aan Zee, a seaside town around an hour’s train ride from central Amsterdam. Clean your own room, bring your own linen and share chores with other ecological pioneers. (Rothestraat 53 A, 1949 CC, Wijk aan Zee, +31 88 099 0952; banjaert.nivon.nl)

EAT VEGAN De Peper is a nonprofit, organic, vegan café in a legalised squat. No menus. No waiters. No boss. Reserve in the afternoon and pay what you can afford – under €10. Aspires to be a model of true democracy and multicultural/interdisciplinary interaction. (Overtoom 301, +31 20 412 2954; depeper.org) COMMUNITY A canteen dedicated to offering healthy vegan food to the underpaid, refugees and migrants, MKZ serves soup, mains with salads and dessert cooked with real love and passion for €5. All are welcome and encouraged to interact and strategise. Reservations required. (Eerste

Schinkelstraat 14, +31 20 679 0712; veganamsterdam.org) AERIAL REM Eiland Restaurant – a former radio & TV station on an iron oil-rig type platform 22 metres above the water – offers a unique and dizzying dining experience. Healthy, local and sustainable dining in a spectacular piece of architecture. (Haparandadam 45-2, +31 20 688 5501; remeiland.com)

SMART TIPS Amsterdam’s public transport system is legendary – and very much bicycle focused. But if you’ve more luggage than you can carry on your back, travel with the I amsterdam City Card, which offers unlimited use of metros, buses, trams, ferries and trains, as well as free entry to many main attractions. LENA Fashion Library on Westerstraat is a pioneering concept store that loans out quality vintage and designer clothing for up to a month. You can also purchase items that you love in store – and if you loathe to return your borrowed item, you can buy it at a ten per cent discount. lena-library.com

From top left, Turkish fashion designer Ruveyde Kalkan; NDSM greenery; Pakhuis de Zwijger, a cultural space thats hosts events on making cities more inclusive, adaptable and affordable.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to AMSTERDAM up to four times daily, and from Cork ten flights per week.

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dublinvisitorcentre.com

+353 (1) 8980700

118 Grafton St 17 O’Connell St Lwr

Dublin’s friendliest visitor information team!

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Sicily Slow down and switch off on a volcanic island rich in fresh produce, traditional cooking and exceptional sights. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN


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Holidays with Aer Lingus Visit our one-stop shop for all your package holiday needs via aerlingus.com. Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, romantic city break, unforgettable cruises, and more.

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4 Opening pages: smoking hot — the view up to Mount Etna. 1 Rocky formations and the Ancient Greek theatre in Taormina. 2 Carlo Pennisi of Zash Boutique Country Hotel. 3 Blood orange granita and brioche at Caffè Sicilia in Noto. 4 Wild lavender is found in abundance in the Sicilian countryside. 5 Mending fishing nets following the morning’s catch. 6 Exploring Noto’s Medieval streets.

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7 Isola Bella –

a charming island off the coast of Taormina. 8 Oranges ripe for plucking in one of many Sicilian citrus groves. 9 Go-go-moto – a common sight in Italy. 10 Fresh spaghetti, cherry tomatoes and lavender served up at Monaci’s restaurant. 11 The lava from Mount Etna’s regular eruptions has contributed to a layered landscape.

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One of the many beautiful and ancient ruins to be found in Taormina.


DESTINATION | SICILY

SICILY ESSENTIALS SLEEP 12

COUNTRY CHIC Monaci delle Terre Nere is a lesson in doing what you love. What started out as a passion project for owner Guido Coffa in 2007 has become a boutique hotel with eight rooms and 12 suites. Each has its own identity, with features ranging from lava stone walls to private hot tubs, and they’re spread over 40 hectares of organic farm and vineyards – the produce of which you’ll find in the restaurant or at the bar. Rooms from €300. Minimum two-night stay. (Via Monaci, Zafferana Etnea, +39 331 136 5016; monacidelleterrenere.it)

BOUTIQUE Formerly a manor house, Zash Country Boutique Hotel maintains its historic exterior but has added a touch of contemporary luxury to its interior design and a minimalist approach to its ten rooms and suites. Switch off at the outdoor pool surrounded by citrus groves or book a treatment at the lava stone spa; your stay here is all about disconnecting. Rooms from €220. (Strada Provinciale, 95018 Archi Riposto, +39 095 782 8932; designhotels.com) SCENIC Giuggiulena B&B has arguably the best ocean views in Syracuse, with no meddlesome clutter obscuring vistas thanks to its clifftop location. The family-run business comprises seven rooms – each one overlooking the water – with direct access to the beach. Mornings are divine, when a feast of homebaked goods sets up intrepid explorers for local adventuring. B&B from €130. (Via Pitagora da Reggio 35 96100, +39 093 146 8142; giuggiulena.it)

STARRY Chef Giuseppe Raciti has worked in both one- and two-Michelin star restaurants and that experience has very clearly informed the creative menu at Zash Restaurant. Here, traditional dishes are given the Raciti touch, while showcasing the region’s excellent produce. A real treat, with an excellent wine list to match. (Strada Provinciale, Archi Riposto, +39 095 782 8932; zash.it) MAMA MIA Home-cooking is at the heart of everything at Tischi Toschi in Taormina where a simple menu is on offer, but what’s served up is always delicious. The family-run business prides itself on using recipes handed down over the years to highlight Sicilian ingredients that have been forgotten or fallen out of fashion. (Vico Francesco Paladini 3, Taormina, +39 339 364 2088; tischitoschitaormina.com)

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EAT GELATO MIO Sicilians are known for having a sweet tooth and a trip to Caffè Sicilia in Noto caters to just that, with aplomb. Corrado Assenza is the fourth-generation co-owner and his specialities include an almond-milk granita (a Sicilian semi-frozen delight), gelato and an endless supply of cannoli … (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 125, Noto, +39 093 183 5013)

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SMART TIPS A hire car is the easiest way to travel around Sicily but, beware, as parking can be tricky in busy towns. Bus companies provide a reliable and frequent service between main cities and also offer day tours. See etnatrasporti.it for routes, timetables and to purchase tickets.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to CATANIA three times per week.

12 The beautiful Zash Boutique Country Hotel. 13 Bottoms up at Monaci bar. 14 Overlooking the Silvestri crater in the town of Rifugio Sapienza.

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CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND SICILY BY CAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.


DUNNE & CRESCENZI

Valued collection of Italian restaurants and wine bars DUNNE & CRESCENZI 14-16 South Frederick St Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 675 9892 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252 Blackrock Shopping Centre Tel : +353 (1) 525 2012

L’OFFICINA Dundrum Town Centre Tel: + 353 (1) 216 6764 Kildare Retail Village Tel +353 045 535850

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

Proud to be part of the McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide

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FIVE BEST

ROAD TR I PS Keep your eyes on the road and your hands upon the wheel … Melanie Mullan turns up the volume for five driving adventures.

PORTUGAL

LISBON TO PORTO The 320-kilometre drive north from Portugal’s capital city is a must for history-loving road-trippers. Pay a visit to the hilltop town of Óbidos where a Medieval wall surrounds the cobblestone streets and, in July, locals don their finest period clobber for the Mercado Medieval de Óbidos (obidos.pt). Further north, the river town of Aveiro makes for

a scenic stop with hand-painted gondolas on the water and possibly one of the prettiest train stations in the world. Finally, the charming city of Porto is home to former merchant houses, impressive architecture and stunning views that will leave a lasting impression.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon up to ten times per week.

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SMART EDIT | ROAD TRIPS

CROATIA

SPLIT TO DUBROVNIK There are many ways to explore the Dalmatian coast – island hopping on a cruise ship is one option for seeing everything from the water – but a car is the best way to explore the region’s nooks and crannies. This 230-kilometre drive takes in glorious coastline, mountainous scenery and charming towns and villages, and also briefly crosses the border into Bosnia. Pack your swimming togs for opportunities aplenty to abandon the car and take a sea dip. Make time too for a detour to the town of Pelješac, which is known for its olive oil, wine, figs and oysters.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Split three times per week, and from Dublin to Dubrovnik daily.

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titanic the Legend the Story

ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.

B o o k n o w at t i ta n i c b e l fas t.c o m


SMART EDIT | ROAD TRIPS

IRELAND

THE BURREN LOOP Driving through Co Clare’s Burren region, you’re as likely to meet a sheep or a cow on the winding roads as you are a hillwalker or a car. The route can vary in length from five to 150 kilometres, depending on how much, or how little, you wish to see. Pit-stops can include the rugged karst landscapes in Black Head, matchmaking and pints in Lisdoonvarna (August 31 to September 30; matchmakerireland.com and the LGBT version, The Outing, October 5-6; theouting.ie), cheesemaking and underground exploring at Aillwee Cave, or watersports in Fanore. And don’t be afraid to take the road in the other direction too – it will still bring beautiful views and you’ll eventually make it back to your starting point.

USA

SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO Hire the convertible, put the head scarf on and line up honky-tonk playlists for a 1,300-kilometre, south-facing road trip down America’s West Coast. Before you fill up on gas, check out Portland’s famous coffee scene, re-enact an adventure scene from the Goonies in Astoria and spend an afternoon in the hills at Ecola State Park, stretching the legs at Heceta Head Lighthouse at sunset. That’s only the half of it. The drive also takes in Redwood National Park before joining the Pacific Coast Highway, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and cruising into San Francisco.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seattle four times per week, and from Dublin to San Francisco daily.

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HISTORY SO CLOSE IT COMES ALIVE Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & Modern Irish History in a Spectacular Setting General Post Office, O’Connell St. Lower, Dublin 1 www.gpowitnesshistory.ie

European Museum Academy Award Winner 2017

BUNRAttY CASTLE - IRELAND’S MOST FAMOUS CASTLE JUST 10 Mins from

ShaNNon Airport CASTLE / MEDIEVAL BANQUET / FOLK PARK

find out more

®


SMART EDIT | ROAD TRIPS

SPAIN

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA TO BILBAO For many, the Camino pilgrimage reaches its climax in Santiago de Compostela but why stop there? The 540-kilometre coastal drive along Spain’s northern territory leaves behind the Medieval architecture of the ancient city and takes in the vast and glorious landscape of the Costa Verde (Green Coast), bypassing fishing towns and seaside villages before reaching Bilbao. Mountains are much easier to climb on four wheels so make your way through the Picos de Europa and linger in Arenas de Cabrales to learn more about the local cuisine – the native blue cheese will send taste buds soaring.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Santiago de Compostela five times per week and from Dublin to Bilbao eight times per week.

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Glovers Alley is led by chef Andy Mc Fadden and his talented team of assistants, sommeliers, wait staff and hosts. Located in the Fitzwilliam Hotel we serve elegant food with friendly service in a luxurious dining space located off Dublin’s magnificent St Stephen’s Green.

LUNCH

PRE THEATRE

à la carte

Two courses €35 Three courses €45 Thursday - Saturday 12:30 - 2:15pm

Two courses €35 Three courses €45 Tuesday - Thursday 6.00 - 7:00pm

Two courses €65 Three courses €80 Tuesday - Saturday 6.00 - 9:30pm

#GLOVERSALLEY

opening hours

mon to thur: 3pm – 11:30pm fri & sat: 3pm – 12:30am sun: 3pm – 11pm

live music sessions

sunday & monday from 9pm

complementary cheeseboard

tuesday from 9pm

WALSH’S

2018 WINNER

STO N EYBAT T E R

In the heart of Stoneybatter, five minutes walk from the Jameson Distillery, come experience the craic and atmosphere of a real Dublin neighbourhood pub. Before you leave, be sure to have a pint in one of Ireland’s last remaining authentic snugs. Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 | +353(01) 670 8647 | info@walshsstoneybatter.ie | www.walshsstoneybatter.ie


DESTINATION | PHILADELPHIA

48 HOURS IN

Philadelphia From high-brow dining to divey Philly, Krista Connor gets to the heart of the melting pot city.

Don't miss . .

ON THE PROMENADE Open daily, Spruce Street Harbor Park is the convivial seasonal gathering space – the crowds are evidence enough. Hammocks dot the shaded green space accented by floating gardens and an arcade made up of converted shipping containers. Food trucks line the waterfront and casual, makeshift bars offer more than a dozen local beers, wine and cocktails. (Spruce Street & South Columbus Boulevard, +1 215 922 2386; delawareriverwaterfront.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PHILADELPHIA daily.

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GET FANCY The cocktail list on the ground-floor bar at Friday Saturday Sunday is as cheeky as it is alluring. A variety of liquors blended with fresh herbs and spices make up drinks like “Cheap Suit”, “The Pyramid Scheme”, or “Alternative Fact”. (261 South 21st Street, +1 215 546 4232; fridaysaturdaysunday.com)

KRISTA CONNOR

TO THE MARKET Philadelphians have been elbowing their way through Reading Terminal Market since 1893. It’s an assault on the senses – vendors call out, locals brush by, a dizzying array of greasy authentic options inspired by a dozen different countries contrasts with eyefuls of celestial pastries and desserts. It’s not all food – visit florists, booksellers, herbalists, too. (12th and Arch Streets, +1 215 922 2317; readingterminalmarket.org)

Drink at . .

Top, it's sometimes sunny in Philadelphia. Above, celebrating Independence at Wawa Welcome America. Left, fulsome flavour abounds at Reading Terminal Market.

INDEPENDENCE WEEK Celebrate red, white and blue in the city of liberty at the Wawa Welcome America week-long bash through July 4. The multi-day, city-wide party offers 50 free events for all ages, including concerts, museum admission, outdoor movie screenings, block parties, a parade and – of course – fireworks that’ll make freedom ring. welcomeamerica.com

A DIVEY REFUEL For a tippler’s take on Philly’s bar scene, try National Mechanics, a converted bank that paradoxically retains its Greek revival façade. The refurbished antique interior is cosy and palatable, offering midrange beers. (22 South 3rd Street, +1 215 701 4883; nationalmechanics.com) PROST! An international tradition can be successfully localised given the right ingredients: in this case, hipsters, Stephen Starr and beer. Frankford Hall, helmed by city restaurateur darling Starr, is a Fishtown beer garden. Strings of lights, picnic tables, Linden trees – with the added touch of ping-pong tables and fire pits – sum up American bliss with a stein of Bavarian brew. (1210 Frankford Avenue, +1 215 634 3338; frankfordhall.me)


BOUTIQUE With just four rooms, Wm. Mulherin’s Sons Hotel can heed the fine details: custom-made furniture with specially selected artwork, fixtures, vintage rugs, and even (live) plants. Rooms fit somewhere on the style scale between industrial, midcentury modern and whycan’t-my-house-look-like-this. Rooms from $290. (1355 North Front Street, +1 215 805 3869; wmmulherinssons.com)

LY

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CLASSIC The Old City Kimpton Hotel Monaco Philadelphia boasts a location situated along one of the country’s most historic miles. For a modern touch head upstairs to the Stratus Rooftop Lounge, which, as the name suggests, is a rooftop bar overlooking Independence Hall. Rooms from $278. (433 Chestnut Street, +1 215 925 2111; monaco-philadelphia.com)

Eat at . .

YALLA! Named one of Philadelphia’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings of 2018” by Zagat, Middle Eastern-style eatery Suraya lives up to the hype. The menu is inspired by the tastes of Beirut – hometown of the owner’s grandmother – spreading outward through the Levant with gorgeous mains that don’t skip the life-breathing details you’d find while perusing any Levantine market: za’atar, arak, halva (give or take the arak). (1528 Frankford Avenue, +1 215 302 1900; surayaphilly.com)

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HISTORIC Built in 1787, the Morris House Hotel is one of the city’s best luxury boutique hotels – and oldest, dating back to 1787. The National Historic Landmark retains its period-specific vibe but don’t let it be pigeonholed: summer nights under the stars in the garden with a five-course meal or cheese and wine offer a stylish balance. Rooms from $239. (225 South 8th Street, +1 215 922 2446; morrishousehotel.com)

MATTHEW WILLIAMS

Sleep at . .

Clockwise from top right, guestroom goals at Wm. Mulherin’s Sons Hotel; design-led dreams at Kimpton Hotel Monaco Philadelphia; Levantine love at Suraya eatery; a dainty afternoon tea at The Dandelion.

KRISTA CONNOR

BAGELICIOUS An unprepossessing bagel shop may seem a little off-track until you’ve tried said discs of delight. Like the best of Philly, Spread Bagelry has converted an international item – Montreal-style bagels – into a neighbourhood staple. What tops even the bagels? Freshly squeezed orange juice; you’d be hard-pressed to find any finer than this liquid sunshine. (262 South 20th Street, +1 215 545 0626; spreadbagelry.com) OK, U.K.! A sophisticated tribute to London’s culinary scene, The Dandelion serves up the classics, whether it’s modern afternoon tea in the Victorian-style dining room or you’re grubbing it with pubby fish ‘n’ chips or shepherd’s pie … most likely served on fine china. (124 South 18th Street, +1 215 558 2500; thedandelionpub.com)

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COMMERCIAL | DATA CENTRES | BIO-PHARMA | INTERIORS | RETAIL | INDUSTRIAL | RESIDENTIAL | CONSERVATION | EDUCATIONAL

Timesless values Innovative thinking A stunning steel and glass exoskeleton now surrounds and encases the beautiful old Scots Presbyterian church on Dublin’s Abbey Street, turning the heads of passers-by. The corporate HQ development is just the latest commercial building in Collen Construction’s impressive portfolio. David Lee, Construction Director at the company, is immensely proud of a building that cannot fail to catch the eye. The distinctive red Collen crane will soon disappear, allowing the building to shine, taking its place in the fast-changing panorama of Dublin’s Liffey quays. The breathtaking building perfectly illustrates the happy marriage of timeless values and innovative thinking that has made Collen Construction one of the most successful Irish contracting companies today. In his role, David is responsible for the safe delivery of the many and varied construction projects undertaken by the 208 year- old family-owned company - in Ireland and across Europe. There are certain key principles that never change for David: “My role is all about ensuring safety, delivering the very best quality and finishing projects on time and as costed.” In David’s job there is never a dull moment. Every construction project is different. The Abbey Street project presented a range of challenges: a busy city centre location, an adjacent live tram line, not to mention the building’s stunning but unusual design.

Every piece of the exoskeleton, imported specially from Turkey, had to be fitted to perfection for the overall vision to come to life. Meanwhile, the protected structure it now surrounds was lovingly restored.

“It was an unusual and challenging project. But for all of us on the team it has been a brilliant, exciting building to work on.” And the sparkling structure in Abbey Street is just one of a whole range of innovative and diverse projects that David oversees in his role as Construction Director. Across town, in Cork Street, Collen is building the high-quality Brickfield Lane student accommodation development. In Blackrock it is delivering a stunning transformation of the Frascati Shopping Centre that promises, along with an adjacent Collen commercial project, to reimagine the area. Collen is also building two stunning office developments in Central

Park and Leopardstown. Key pharmaceutical and logistics projects ensure the company is at the heart of Ireland’s economic recovery, not to mention a series of major data centres for one of the world’s biggest tech companies at a number of strategic locations around the city, as well as in Sweden and Germany. It all adds up to an exciting and busy daily agenda for David who began his career as an apprentice carpenter 27 years ago and progressed steadily from there. Collen Construction is a launch partner for ISO 45001, the first international standard for health and safety in the workplace, recently launched in Ireland by the National Standards Authority of Ireland. “We pride ourselves on what we have achieved in the area of health and safety, but we are always looking to reach and out-perform new standards,” says David. “Mindfulness in the workplace has become a key health and safety tool for the company” he adds. Taking such a hands-on approach is very much part of the Collen family ethos and comes naturally to a business where eight generations of the Collen family has now worked. “This incredible longevity manifests itself in the fact that the company is not merely interested in short term gains but prioritises long term goals for the people who work here and for the clients we serve,” says David. Clients understand what they are getting when they sign up with Collen, be it for a big or a small job, he says. For David it all comes down to one thing: “Our business is built on trust.”

Abbey Street, Office Development

30-32 Molesworth Street

ESB Office Fit-Out

UCD Ashfield Student Accommodation

Block H, Central Park

IRELAND UK GERMANY SWEDEN Head Office: River House East Wall Road Dublin 3 Ireland +353 1 8745411 www.collen.com


ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

SEAT TLE

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SIZZLING SEATTLE Megan Hill takes us through the many perks and peaks of doing business in the Emerald City, including delicious food choices.

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Andrew Lynch, co-founder and COO of coworking firm Huckletree offers a sneak peek at his daily routine.

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DELAMAR HARTFORD, ETC Clíona Foley discovers a hip and trendy spot in West Hartford as well as new openings in London, Toronto and Dublin.

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SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Three Ireland’s digital marketing manager Cian McDonagh shares his work insights and favourite places in Milan.

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Business

TRENDY The James Beard Foundation, considered to be the Oscars of the food world, awarded chef Edouardo Jordan two 2018 medals for his cooking. Try his take on Southern food at JuneBaby, where heirloom ingredients shine in favourites such as cast-iron cornbread, fried catfish and his mother’s bone-in oxtails. He crafts them all with classic techniques, while staying true to their roots. (2122 NE 65th Street, +1 206 257 4470; junebabyseattle.com)

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JEREMY PRICE

EAT

BROOKE FITTS

S

eattle’s sparkling perch amid mountains and waterways is squarely in the spotlight lately. The city is home to some of the most recognisable corporate brands in the world: Starbucks, Microsoft, Expedia, Costco and Amazon were founded in the metro area, while dozens more – from Facebook to Google – have satellite offices in the Emerald City. These and other companies are transforming Downtown and the adjacent neighbourhood of South Lake Union, which now swarms with workers in a hive of shiny office towers that have replaced abandoned warehouses. Thanks in large part to dizzying growth from the tech industry, Seattle has added 220,000 jobs in the last ten years. Although it hasn’t eclipsed Silicon Valley as the nation’s top technology hub, Seattle has been the top city for workers relocating from the San Francisco Bay area. And it’s consistently one of the fastest growing cities in the country. Seattle’s reputation as a hub of innovation lends a creative spirit that extends to its restaurant scene – newly recognised on the national level – and to worldchanging nonprofits such as the Gates Foundation, which is working to tackle some of the world’s most pressing development challenges. All that to say: Seattle’s having a moment. There’s never been a better time to visit – and do business in – the Emerald City.

ICONIC Bateau, left, may single-handedly usher in a new chapter for the classic American steakhouse. At this charming, French-influenced, fine-dining restaurant, chef Renee Erickson practises nose-to-tail butchery. Chalkboards list limited-run cuts of sustainably raised beef that range far beyond your typical filet mignon, and are crossed out once gone. (1040 E Union Street, +1 206 900 8699; restaurantbateau.com)

CHEAP With three brickand-mortar locations and a roving food truck, Marination specialises in Korean-LatinHawaiian fusion. That means kalbi beef sliders, kimchi rice bowls, bulgogi pork tacos and kimchi quesadillas. At the restaurant’s Ma Kai location, on the West Seattle shoreline, these dishes come with a complimentary skyline view. (1660 Harbor Avenue SW, +1 206 328 8226; marinationmobile.com)


GET SMART

SIZZLING SEATTLE

ARRIVALS Seattle’s Link light rail system forms an artery from the airport and through the middle of the city. Find the airport station a short walk from baggage claim, and you’re just a straight-shot and a 30-minute ride from downtown. Credit card-friendly kiosks dispense tickets before you board. Fare to downtown $3. soundtransit.org

The Emerald City is a hub of innovation for high-flying corporates and world-changing nonprofits, not to mention its restaurants, finds Megan Hill.

TO GO Need coffee or a bite on the go? Downtown’s Café Hitchcock Express has you covered with espresso and plenty of high-quality packaged food, such as sandwiches on locally baked bread, wraps, granola parfaits, yogurt, salads and grain bowls, all from renowned local chef and farmer Brendan McGill. (821 2nd Avenue, +1 206 467 5078; cafehitchcock.com)

SUZIE PRATT

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE up to four times per week.

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Business

SLEEP

HISTORIC Though situated at the edge of the eminently trendy nightlife hotspot of Capitol Hill, the Hotel Sorrento has a stately spirit. It’s the grand dame of Seattle hotels, with a vintage charm that’s hard to come by in this ever-changing city. Each of the 76 guest rooms features unique decor, and there’s a Sunday jazz brunch in the ground floor’s Dunbar Room restaurant. Rooms from $299. (900 Madison Street, +1 206 622 6400; hotelsorrento.com)

HIP The Thompson Hotel, among all those gleaming new skyscrapers downtown, is where contemporary design meets impressive water and mountain views. Rooms don’t shy away from the scenery, with floor-to-ceiling windows complementing luxury furnishings. The best place to take it all in? The rooftop bar, The Nest, where seasonal dishes meet original cocktails. Rooms from $359. (110 Stewart Street, +1 206 623 4600; thompsonhotels.com)

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ANDREW POGUE

COSY It’s hard to beat the views from the Mediterranean Inn. Its location at the base of the famous Space Needle means incredible skyline views from some rooms and even better vistas from the rooftop deck. Apartment-style suites skew more functional than fancy and there’s a pleasant interior courtyard for nice weather days. Rooms from $209. (425 Queen Anne Avenue N, +1 206 428 4700; mediterranean-inn.com)


Padraic Rhatigan, Managing Director of JJ Rhatigan & Company talks about their core philosophy of Setting Standards and their dedication to achieving excellence across every aspect of their business. “For over 60 years, JJ Rhatigan & Company has been at the forefront of construction, recognising the need for sustainable development in delivering a more advanced and competitive infrastructure in Ireland. We pride ourselves in the well-deserved reputation for delivering complex, large-scale projects and have worked in collaboration with multinationals on developments including manufacturing facilities, cleanrooms, laboratories and office buildings. With extensive Design and Build experience and our track record of working with leading companies in the Biopharma, Medtech and Technology sectors, we deliver projects on time, on budget and to the highest international standards, which is what matters to our Clients.”

Teleflex Medical, Global Operations & International Headquarters

The standards set and upheld companywide enable JJ Rhatigan & Company to guarantee successful delivery of their Clients’ projects whether they are looking for a new location or planning to expand an existing presence. High Quality Property Solutions Impeccable Safety Record Solid Leadership Smart & Lean Construction

Proven Track Record KCI Medical Manufacturing Facility

Dedicated Sector Specialist Teams Digital Driven Approach Innovative Construction Techniques

PPD, Laboratory & Biopharmaceutical Facility

Rigorous Cost Control Robust Supply Chain Meticulous Planning Flexible EnterpriseFriendly Culture Proactive Creative Partner

Certainty of Delivery Trusted Long-Term Relationships

Medtronic Customer Innovation Centre

Commercial | Office | Data Centres | Industrial | Residential | Pharmaceutical | Medtech | Hotel Galway | Dublin | Cork | Sligo | London

www.jjrhatigan.com


Business

CEO INSIDER…

Seattle’s mayor Jenny Durkan boasts family roots in Co Mayo. Formerly a US attorney appointed by President Barack Obama, she took the Irish language in college and studied in Ireland. She now serves as Seattle’s CEO.

You grew up in the area but lived away for a while. What brought you back to the Seattle area? As much as I loved studying in Ireland and teaching English in Alaska, I love this city to my bones. We are pushing ahead on so many issues, including climate, immigration, constitutional policing, criminal justice reform, and racial equity and social justice. Seattleites love this city; they want to give back to it and make it better. That excitement and shared enthusiasm is what brought me back. What are your top spots to take visitors? Once you’ve seen Seattle’s best-known landmarks, like the Pike Place Market, the Space Needle, the Seattle Center, and the Seattle Art Museum (plus the Gum Wall and the Fremont Troll), I’d take you to a few lesser-known, but equally vibrant spots around the city. In Pioneer Square – Seattle’s oldest neighbourhood – you can browse art galleries and visit some of our city’s best restaurants and bars. Nearby, in the International District, check out the Wing Luke Museum and stop in at

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Seattle’s oldest Chinese restaurant, Tai Tung (don’t miss “Combination #1”!). If you head south, to Georgetown, you can stop by Fran’s chocolate factory, Georgetown Brewing, Charles Smith Wines and Fonda La Catrina. To the east is Rainier Valley, home to the renowned King Donuts and Café Avole, and further east is Columbia, the bustling villageunto-itself that is home to Columbia City Bakery, Geraldine’s Counter, Tutta Bella, and Molly Moon’s Homemade Ice Cream, to name a few. What are your favourite downtime activities in Seattle? I’m an avid sports fan. If I have a night off during the season, you can probably find me watching Seattle Storm, Seahawks, Sounders, Reign FC, the Mariners, the Washington Wild ... and soon, a new NHL team! Besides sports, one of my favourite activities is to take a long walk in one of Seattle’s many parks and green spaces. Volunteer Park has a great view and is a favourite spot of dog-owners, joggers, picnickers and theatre-goers alike. What’s the best thing about living in Seattle? Without a doubt, the people. As someone who was born here, I can tell you that’s how it’s always been. From the First Peoples, whose resilient communities have shared their history and culture, to recent immigrants whose work, patience and drive have empowered communities and enriched our region, to the innovators in medicine, technology, and business who have made us one of the most advanced and attractive economic centres in the world, the people of Seattle are the city’s backbone. We are a diverse city, proud of the many cultures and backgrounds of our residents. We know our diversity makes us stronger. That’s why our city works every day to make Seattle a more just and inclusive place.

Above, Jenny Durkan has recently taken on the role of mayor of Seattle. Left, Seattle’s Space Needle and Pike Place Market, below, are a must-see for first-time visitors to the city.

Fly return to Seattle from Dublin for 50,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES.

What makes doing business in Seattle unique? Seattle has always been a city that invents the future. We were the jumping off point for the gold rush, the birthplace of air travel, created coffee on every corner, and the cradle of innovations including the cloud and bone marrow transplants. We have thriving businesses and the coolest jobs anywhere. Our city is full of innovators: doctors and scientists working on the frontiers of medicine; award-winning restaurants, small business owners and entrepreneurs who are inventing the future; iron workers, electricians, carpenters and labourers who have built this city into what it is today. Our city is focused on ensuring real economic opportunity for every child in Seattle.


Business

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE Andrew Lynch is co-founder and COO of Huckletree (huckletree.com), the workspace accelerator with coworking spaces across London – and now Dublin, where its new 500-member location houses tech startups, corporate innovation teams and early-stage investors.

6am I always start the day with family time. I’d love to say it was all fun and games but, in reality, it usually consists of my two-year-old daughter Edie trying her best to coat every surface of our house in porridge, and my wife Jen calming us both down before we head our separate ways for the day. We’re a pretty solid team but Jen is very much the captain. From there, it takes me about 40 minutes to get to our Shoreditch office on the Tube and during that time I’m either buried in emails or reading a book. 9am Almost every day I sit down first thing with Gaby, Huckletree’s CEO, to talk through our respective plans and goals for the day. With four spaces across London and Dublin, and a team edging close to 40, it’s getting a little harder to find time for these meetings. It’s a vital part of our co-founder relationship though and something we both attach a lot of value to. Noon Every lunchtime is different, depending on which Huckletree space I’m working in. Today we welcomed TRH Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall to our workspace in West London. The pair were on a royal tour of London’s innovation hubs including our neighbours, Yoox Net-a-Porter. It’s great to see White City getting recognition as one of the capital’s key innovation districts – I even overheard Prince Charles quip, “It’s amazing how many beards there are here!” I think we’re

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PARIS I spent a summer here when I was 22 and have managed to find my way back a few times every year since. w Architecturally, it’s probably the most Ar beautiful city in the world. Combine beau with the thriving tech ecosystem, that w great food and hidden gardens, and have the best adventure – and you’ll h always alway explore by foot.

certainly giving our East London hipster friends a run for their money … 3pm Expansion call with our operations and growth team. We’re constantly looking at new ways to add value to our members’ businesses; expanding our European footprint and diversifying our network is one way we’re going about this. As we scale Huckletree, we’re set on making sure we stay true to our values, which means continuing to bring in incredible ambassadors from the likes of Uber, Shazam and Facebook. They strengthen our networks, support our members with their expertise and kick-start collaboration – something we believe is key to growing a successful business.

DUBLIN It always feels special flying back into Dublin. It’s my hometown and the location of our fourth workspace. Dubliners are canny and there’s now a thriving community of Irish entrepreneurs creating amazing businesses, many between Dublin and London. It’s an inspiring place to be and the commute isn’t so bad.

6pm Meeting or drinks with one of our investors to discuss expansion strategy and funding. 8pm Winding down for the day. I always try to get home before Edie goes to bed. Any parent will know that time goes so fast and I don’t want to be in a situation in 30 years’ time where I regret not spending enough time with my family. It’s something I hear constantly from older colleagues – but you need to work hard at it. It means more efficient, productive use of your time during the day and frequent late nights with the laptop after everyone has gone to bed. The life of an entrepreneur isn’t all beers, shots and fist-pumps ... usually.

BARCELONA One of my all-time favourite cities, Barcelona is definitely the dream location for a future Huckletree. Lots of green eyes from the team when we went to scout it out. It’s impossible not to love somewhere with such incredible blue skies and the vibe there is one-of-a-kind.


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Business Hotel

RIGHT

on trend

Connecticut, folks, but not as you know it. Clíona Foley investigates.

A

n exhibition of pulp fiction posters and a neon art installation are not what you expect to find hanging in the lobby of a hotel in WASPish Connecticut. But one glance indicates that Delamar West Hartford is bringing hip interiors and modernity to a part of the US known as the insurance capital of the world. This hotel, just eight months old, mixes classical dimensions with a contemporary vibe that would not look out of place in NYC’s Meatpacking District. Connecticut may also be known as America’s Hedge Fund Centre but West Hartford has been dubbed one of the country’s “Ten Coolest Suburbs” and the Delamar has an edgy style that feeds into local cultural history – not to mention a rotating collection of artwork, thanks to a collaboration with the New Britain Museum of American Art. It also has its own vegetable and herb garden, the produce of which features in the hotel’s classy ground-floor restaurant, Artisan. You can grab a cocktail and small

plate at the boothed bar, or eat more formally from a menu that features modern twists such as cauliflower risotto with mushroom jam for starters and mains like black pearl salmon and lobster tagliatelle. Business travellers will be happy with high-speed Wi-Fi throughout, while bedrooms are huge and include smart TVs and large workspaces. The hotel also features a spa and small gym and there’s a complimentary continental breakfast available daily that’s also ideal for meetings on the hoof. When you’ve closed up the laptop, neighbouring capital Hartford features visitor attractions such as Mark Twain

House, the Wadsworth Atheneum (with more than 50,000 works of art) and its own symphony orchestra. Katharine Hepburn, the epitome of languorous American cool, was one of the Hartford’s most famous daughters and is buried in the family plot at Cedar Hill Cemetery. A two-minute walk away is Muse, a bar that holds live art classes where you’re encouraged to “Paint, Sip & Eat”. Nearby is also a huge Whole Foods supermarket and enough interior and designer pet stores to indicate that West Hartford is a little slice of hip heaven in the ’burbs. Rooms cost from $289. (1 Memorial Rd, West Hartford, +1 860 937 2500; delamar.com)

TORONTO On the grounds of Exhibition Place, the flashy sky-scraping Hotel X Toronto is a vertical city in itself and couldn’t be better located for delegates attending the adjacent Enercare and Beanfield centres. It has more than 400 rooms – most with gasp-inducing views of either the city or Lake Ontario – as well as a whopping 8,300 square metres of fitness and spa facilities. Doubles from CAD$339. (111 Princes’ Boulevard, +1 647 943 9300; hotelxtoronto.com)

DUBLIN Hot on the heels of The Alex and The Iveagh Garden is Dublin’s latest hotel addition, the Maldron Hotel Kevin Street, beside St Patrick’s Cathedral. Bright, comfortable guest rooms have all the bells and whistles required for a short stay; weekday breakfasts run from 7am until 10am and its ambling distance from St Stephen’s Green makes it a winner for cross-city access. Doubles from €183. (Kevin Street Lower, 1850 885 885; maldronhotelkevinstreet.com)

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

LONDON Multihyphenate millennials are firmly in the sights of New Road Shoreditch hotel, an 80-bed proposition in still-trendy East London. Not only does it have its own cereal café, open from breakfast until late afternoon, this former textile factory has a games room for playing pool and all-round hobnobbing. There’s also a Marco Pierre White restaurant. Doubles from £149. (103-107 New Road, Whitechapel, +44 20 3019 8710; newroadhotel.co.uk) 118 |

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Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Cian’s

SMART CITY

for an organisation’s existence. Without a clear brand purpose, you become just another company trying to sell “stuff”. Your brand purpose should be the one thing that unites both your employees and customers; a true reflection of your company and its values, both internally and externally.

CIAN McDONAGH is digital marketing manager at Three Ireland, one of Ireland’s leading telecommunications companies. A native of Dunmore East in Co Waterford, Cian is responsible for all brand and marketing communications delivered through digital channels for Three and has overseen a number of awardwinning marketing campaigns.

1

Focus on attention Even though we are consuming more content than ever before, it has never been more difficult for brands to cut through in a cluttered and fragmented media environment. When companies talk about marketing objectives, they automatically default to discussing brand impact and sales. Your first and primary objective should be to win attention. Focus first on getting a consumer’s attention, then you can worry about what to do with it.

2

Provide a clear value exchange From TV to social media, all marketing communications should be looked at through the lens of providing your audience with something in return for their attention. How will they feel? What will they learn? By uniting the message you want to deliver with what your audience wants to

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absorb, you will develop a clear value exchange that provides for mutually beneficial and more engaging advertising.

3

Relevancy is key It is estimated that we see up to 4,000 branded messages a day, while less than a hundred get past our “attention wall”. That’s a lot of clutter and not a lot of space to stand out in. By focusing on relevancy, brands can ensure that a customer is more likely to take notice of them. Every component of the marketing message should be centred on making it relevant to your audience, from the product being promoted, to the creative context, to the media placement.

4

Have a clear brand purpose A brand is more than just a logo or a colour palette. A brand embodies the very reason

5

Don’t ignore change Often change can be overwhelming and something we resist when it pushes beyond our comfort levels. As a business, however, you need to constantly be ready to face fundamental change. The next Amazon or Spotify could arrive and make your seemingly stable business obsolete. Don’t ignore change when it affects your customers’ lives. Understand it, adapt with it and find your company’s relevance in an unfamiliar environment.

6

Stay true to marketing principles There has never been a more exciting time to work in marketing, with new platforms and technologies changing the way we communicate with brands and each other. This digital shift, however, can make you question everything you think you know about marketing. The reality is marketing hasn’t changed. Digital marketing is … just marketing. Though the channels may be different and acronyms confusing, the core principles of marketing are as relevant today as ever.

DESTINATION The location of our global brand forum this year, Milan is a thriving metropolis of creativity and inspiration. Italy’s financial and design capital offers a vibrant and imaginative environment for business to flourish.

STAY Located in Milan’s financial district, Meliá Milano is a stylish hotel that fuses the city’s love of design with a modern and contemporary feel that’s complemented by well-connected transport links and welcoming staff. (Via Masaccio 19, +39 0244 4061; melia.com)

EAT If you’re looking for a restaurant that has it all, then look no further than Contraste. Excellent food in a pleasant atmosphere that’s supplemented with attentive and friendly staff. (Via Meda 2, +39 02 4953 6597; contrastemilano.it)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan twice weekly.


DISCOVER ASHFORD CASTLE THIS SUMMER After an exciting day exploring the Ashford Estate, now with over 25 activities and 350 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, retreat to the award-winning Spa before dining in one of Ashford Castle’s five excellent restaurants.

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One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie


OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI131 PA

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. . Conas atá tú? Ho w are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number. Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

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Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing? • Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode? • Is your seatback fully upright? • Is your armrest down? • Is your tabletop stowed? • Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you? To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.


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Your Comfort and Safety

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 33

0-200

For your Safety

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable:

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water. Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster. 128 |

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• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

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Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do

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ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated. • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited. • You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Black Panther After the death of his father, T’Challa returns home to Wakanda to take his place as king. But when a powerful old enemy reappears, his mettle as king – and Black Panther – is tested.

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

A Wrinkle in Time

PG

Black Panther

PG13

Darkest Hour

PG13

Early Man

PG

Father Figures

R

110 mins | Adventure Meg travels through time and space to find her father. Stars Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling

134 mins | Action Facing an old enemy, T’Challa’s mettle as king is tested. Stars Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong‘o

125 mins | Biography Tough decisions made during the early days of World War II. Stars Gary Oldman, Lily James, Kristin Scott Thomas

88 mins | Animation Dug and Hognob unite his tribe against a mighty enemy. Voiced by Tom Hiddleston, Eddie Redmayne, Maisie Williams

112 mins | Comedy Two brothers hit the road in order to find their father. Stars Owen Wilson, Christopher Walken, JK Simmons

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Maze Runner: The Death Cure

R

Red Sparrow

144 mins | Action A hero embarks on a mission to find a cure for a virus. Stars Dylan O‘Brien, Ki Hong Lee, Kaya Scodelario

138 mins | Mystery A Russian spy is forced to use her body as a weapon. Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Joel Edgerton, Charlotte Rampling

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

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R

Star Wars: The Last Jedi

PG13

The 15:17 to Paris

R

The Clapper

R

152 mins | Action The Last Jedi heroes join the legends in an epic adventure. Stars Daisy Ridley, Mark Hamill, Carrie Fisher, Adam Driver

94 mins | Drama Three Americans discover a terrorist plot aboard a train. Stars Alek Skarlatos, Judy Greer, Anthony Sadler, Spencer Stone

90 mins | Comedy 15 minutes of fame destroys the life of a clapper. Stars Amanda Seyfried, Leah Remini, Ed Helms

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN


Lady Bird Set in Sacramento, California in 2002, amidst a rapidly shifting American economic landscape, Lady Bird is an affecting look at the relationships that shape us, the beliefs that define us, and the unmatched beauty of a place called home.

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Game Night

R

Hostiles

R

100 mins | Action A group of friends try to solve a murder mystery. Stars Jason Bateman, Rachel McAdams, Kyle Chandler

133 mins | Adventure Perilous journey of an army captain and a Cheyenne chief. Stars Christian Bale, Rosamund Pike, West Studi

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR IT ES

The Greatest Showman

PG

The Post

PG13

Jumanji: Welcome PG13 to the Jungle

Justice League

PG13

Lady Bird

R

117 mins | Action Teenagers get sucked into the video game world of Jumanji. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Karen Gillan

120 mins | Action Batman enlists the help of allies to defeat a new enemy. Stars Ben Affleck, Gal Gadot, Jason Momoa

94 mins | Comedy An artistically inclined girl comes of age in Sacramento. Stars Saoirse Ronan, Laurie Metcalf, Tracy Letts

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE ES

The Shape of Water

R

104 mins | Musical A musical that celebrates the birth of show business. Stars Hugh Jackman, Michelle Williams, Anne Wheeler

116 mins | Biography An unprecedented battle of the press and the government. Stars Meryl Streep, Tom Hanks, Sarah Paulson

122 mins | Drama A woman discovers a secret experiment in a government lab. Stars Sally Hawkins, Octavia Spencer

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

Ferdinand

PG

Peter Rabbit

PG

108 mins | KidZone The tale of Ferdinand, a bull with a big heart. Voiced by Kate McKinnon, Bobby Cannavale, David Tennant

95 mins | KidZone An adaptation of Beatrix Potter‘s classic tale of a rabbit. Voiced by James Corden, Fayssal Bazzi, Domhnall Gleeson

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available onboard today along with some popular movies such as Miss Congeniality, Sleepless in Seattle and Alien. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and awardwinning Irish shorts and features too!

A E R L I N G U S TA K E O F F F O U N DAT I O N

Alien R 117 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt

Alien 3 R 115 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Charles S Dutton, Charles Dance

Assassin‘s PG13 Creed 115 mins | Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard

Catwoman PG13 102 mins | Stars Halle Berry, Sharon Stone, Benjamin Bratt

Crazy Heart R 107 mins | Stars Jeff Bridges, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Colin Farrell

EN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN DE IT ES

Edge of PG13 Tomorrow 114 mins | Stars Tom Cruise, Emily Blunt, Bill Paxton

Fever Pitch 103 mins | Stars Colin Firth, Ruth Gemmell

Fight Club R 139 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Meat Loaf

PG13 Goal! III 94 mins | Stars JJ Feild, Leo Gregory, Kuno Becker

Gone Girl R 149 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rosamund Pike, Neil Patrick Harris

EN FR DE ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

R

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

We are delighted to offer award winning short films from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling by Maria Elena Doyle, The Lost Letter by Brian Willis and Leap of Faith directed by Mark Smyth. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlyn.

Goodbye, Darling

PG13

13 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising. Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity EN

Grudge Match PG13 113 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone

How to Be Single 108 mins | Stars Dakota Johnson

Mars Attacks! PG13 105 mins | Stars Jack Nicholson, Sarah Jessica Parker

Miss PG13 Congeniality 107 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Michael Caine

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE IT ES

Pelé: Birth PG of a Legend 107 mins | Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio

Prometheus R 124 mins | Stars Noomi Rapace, Michael Fassbender

Sleepless PG in Seattle 104 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan

The Curious PG13 Case of Benjamin Button 162 mins | Stars Brad Pitt

The Heat R 114 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Hunger PG13 Games: Mockingjay – Part 1 122 mins | Stars

Jennifer Lawrence

Victory PG 117 mins | Stars Michael Caine, Sylvester Stallone

Zodiac R 158 mins | Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Robert Downey Jr

2001: A Space Odyssey 122 mins | Stars Keir Dullea

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

R

Independence PG13 Day 138 mins | Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman

Leap of Faith

PG13

14 mins | Drama Kelly is captivated by her new neighbour. Stars Leah Egan EN

The Lost Letter

PG

8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

The Secret Market G

27 Dresses PG13 111 mins | Stars Katherine Heigl, James Marsden

PG13

23 mins | Drama A surgeon‘s past life haunts her. Stars Victoria Smurfit EN

EN FR DE IT ES

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Lighthouse PG13 5 mins | Stars Edel Crehan, Shane Joseph Curry

Making PG the Grade 87 mins | Documentary

Men of PG13 Straw 20 mins | Stars Patsy O‘Sullivan, Brendan O‘Sullivan

Purgatory PG13 Speech 5 mins | Stars Matthew Kerry

Release PG13 72 mins | Stars Andie McCaffrey Byrne, Dessie Byrne, John Connors

Time PG13 Traveller 11 mins | Stars Barry Ward, Tom Doran

The PG13 Farmer 6 mins | Stars Eddie Lenihan

The PG13 Silent Child 20 mins | Stars Rachel Shenton, Maisie Sly

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar. Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

2w0in1ne7r

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

✹▲❙❙ ❋ ✫❙❋ ✬❊ ❙ ✬ ❊❖■


LIFEST YLE

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Will & Grace (2017) Will & Grace reunites its ever-hilarious cast for a revival season that picks up right where the show left off 11 years ago – adding a fresh relevance and a series of stories that make sharply funny use of the passage of time. On board is Series 1, Episodes 1 and 2.

BUSINESS

D O C U M E N TA R Y

Billion Dollar Deals And How They Changed Your World S1, EP1, How we are sleepwalking into a sinister and dystopian future CNBC Conversation A glimpse at the CEO of L’Oréal, Jean-Paul Agon Marketing. Media. Money Mars is one of the biggest food companies The Edge The latest innovations within the beauty industry The Ripple Effect S2, EP1, The esports network Twitch TV Trailblazers Gwyneth Paltrow‘s move from Oscar winner to CEO C O M E DY

It‘s Always Sunny In Philadelphia S11, EP8 & 9, Charlie and Mac try to catch a thieving leprechaun Killinaskully S5, EP1 & 2, Theo‘s mother leaves him nothing in her will Modern Family S8, EP3 & 4, Luke and Manny compete for the senior class presidency New Girl S5, EP10 & 11, Jess returns from jury duty and heps Cece to move out The Big Bang Theory S11, EP3, 4 & 5, Sheldon and Amy struggle with their wedding plans

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America: Facts vs Fiction S4, EP10, American history‘s most renowned rivalries America's National Parks S1, EP5, A wilderness jewel Yellowstone National Park An Idiot Abroad S2, EP1, Karl spends time on a desert island Before I Kick the Bucket One-Off Special, A terminally ill young woman goes in search of a bucket list Building Ireland S2, EP5, How Ireland’s great engineering achievements came to be Ireland‘s Greatest Robberies S1, EP1, The most ambitious and exciting heists of recent decades Islanders S1, EP1, Fishing communities of the islands off the Irish West Coast Keeping the Castle One-Off Special, A modern story of struggling finances and family responsibility Rhys Jones’s Wildlife Patrol S1, EP2, Dr Rhys solves all manner of wildlife crimes and conflicts Tracks & Trails S1, EP4, A walk in Letterfrack, County Galway

50 Ways to Kill Your Mammy S3, EP4, Baz tries to scare his 70-year-old mammy Clodagh‘s Irish Food Trail S1, EP1, Clodagh McKenna travels in Ireland Donal‘s Meals in Minutes S1, EP2, Modern meals, lots of tips and hints Michael Bublé: Live at the BBC One-Off Special, The Canadian artist‘s exclusive show Missing You One-Off Special, Ireland‘s emigrants through their video calls to home Room to Improve S10, EP1, Dermot Bannon and Lisa O‘Brien transform a 1940s cottage in Malahide Slow TV The Northern Railway train ride in real time The Undateables S7, EP1, A series about disability and dating Travel Man S2, EP3, A weekend in the happiest place on earth, Copenhagen Vogue Williams – On the Edge S1, EP1, Vogue explores gender dysphoria in our generation NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

SPORT

Chronicles of A Champion Golfer S1, EP1, Padraig Harrington Clubland S1, EP12, Featuring the club profile of Liverpool FC Gary Neville‘s Soccerbox S1, EP4, Striker Matt Le Tissier‘s most memorable moments The Burning Issue S1, EP4, Exploring the issues of fight sports The Immortals S1, EP7, The greatest track and field athlete, Usain Bolt The Road to Russia S1, EP2, A potential dark horse: Switzerland K I DZ O N E

Dora the Explorer S7, EP9, Dora goes to the doctor for a check up! Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson Grubz Up! Compilation, Children‘s show how to make tasty meals. Shaun the Sheep Compilation, A sheep who doesn‘t follow the flock Spongebob Squarepants S10, EP1, SpongeBob and Patrick get hooked on the latest fad The Day Henry Met? Compilation, Every day Henry meets something or someone new Tom & Jerry Compilation, A classic cartoon, Tom tries to catch Jerry

World Cup Highlights Keep up to date with the biggest event of the summer on board Aer Lingus with the World Cup Highlights.

Bridget & Eamon Bridget & Eamon is a comedy that follows the lives of a married Irish couple living in 1980s rural Ireland. Starring Bernard O‘Shea and Jennifer Maguire, the show is based on the sketches that appeared on the Republic Of Telly comedy show. On board is Series 3, Episodes 1 and 2.


Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland. Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release. Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590


Peaky Blinders Season 1 & 2 R Peaky Blinders is an epic gangster drama set in the lawless streets of post-war Birmingham on the cusp of the 1920s. The story centres on the Peaky Blinders gang led by the fierce Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy), a crime boss set on moving up in the world no matter the cost.

Boxsets Choose from some of the finest boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into the hugely popular Peaky Blinders or the quirky drama Fargo. Also on board is Suits, The Walking Dead and Get Shorty.

Suits, Season 7

The show evolves around the notion of social classes and empires, and how they rise and fall with a startling sort of predictability. As the show suggests, over time, empires become too big, too corrupt, and too complicated to sustain themselves and eventually, they collapse.

PG13

Episode 1: Mike returns to Pearson Specter Litt. Episode 2: Harvey butts heads with his partners over a bold move. Episode 3: Louis and Harvey wrangle with new firm dynamics. Episode 4: Mike and Rachel struggle with their wedding plans. Episode 5: Mike juggles his work with helping a hurting family. Episode 6: Harvey tries to tell Donna about Paula. Episode 7: Lipschitz forces Louis out of his comfort zone. Episode 8: Donna receives a surprising proposition. Episode 9: Rachel is surprised when her dad offers to join forces. Episode 10: Louis aids Alex when his client comes under fire.

Get Shorty, Season 1

R

Episode 1: Miles travels to LA to collect on a debt for his boss. Episode 2: Miles heads back to LA to pitch his movie script to Rick. Episode 3: Rick discovers the unusual ways Miles and Louis work. Episode 4: Miles‘ Hollywood producer facade becomes legitimate. Episode 5: Katie and Emma visit Miles in Los Angeles. Episode 6: An unexpected visitor on the studio lot changes plans. Episode 7: Budget issues threaten production of Admiral‘s Mistress. Episode 8: Miles struggles to keep production challenges at bay. Episode 9: Amara sends her goons out to kill Miles and Louis. Episode 10: Miles faces a final reckoning with his family.

The Walking Dead, Season 7

R

Episode 3: Daryl is taken to the Sanctuary, home of the Saviors. Episode 4: Negan and his Saviors visit Alexandria. Episode 5: Maggie and Sasha recover from their grief at the Hilltop. Episode 6: Tara encounters a group of female survivors. Episode 7: Carl and Jesus find themselves heading to the Sanctuary. Episode 8: Things quickly spin out of control for Negan. Episode 9: Jesus leads Rick and the group to the Kingdom. Episode 10: Carol and Daryl have an emotional reunion. Episode 11: Eugene begins to work for Negan and the Saviors. Episode 12: The group scavenge for supplies.

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Fargo Season 3

R

The third series of Fargo centers on Emmit and his younger brother Ray (both played by Ewan McGregor). Emmit sees himself as an American success story, whereas Ray is more of a cautionary tale. Living in his successful brother‘s shadow, Ray has a chip on his shoulder about the hand he‘s been dealt – and he blames Emmit. Their sibling rivalry follows a twisted path that begins with petty theft but soon leads to murder and mobsters. David Thewlis stars as VM Vargas, a mysterious loner and true capitalist whose bosses plan to work with Emmit.


Ballygarry House is owned and operated by the McGillicuddy family and celebrates 60 years as a hotel this year. It has established itself as a leading Irish hotel, recently listed as the Top 5 Hotel in Ireland on TripAdvisor for 2018. This charming 4 Star Property is located in the South West of Ireland, overlooking the Kerry Mountains on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is at the gateway to the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry and many Championship Links Courses. ‘As we celebrate 60 years of hospitality, we understand what makes us stand out - our attentive staff, our food offerings, the country house charm along with our plush guest bedrooms, our award winning Nádúr Spa & our passion for doing everything right every time’

Padraig McGillicuddy Proprietor of Ballygarry House Hotel & Spa

See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Co. Kerry, Ireland www.ballygarryhouse.com

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

dodublin.ie


Camila Cabello

Music & Radio

The sleek and mellow Camila is the long-awaited solo debut album from Camila Cabello. Cabello pays homage to her Cuban heritage on the vibrant and sultry Latin-and-pop fusion Havana and sings about how an addiction to love messes with the chemicals in her brain in Never Be The Same.

Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

RTÉ Lyric FM Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

POP

Breakfast Republic 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between 98FM’s Top 10 Summer Songs with Barry Dunne 98FM

Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm is a music station with a classical bias whilst also offering the listener a vast and eclectic array of music from all periods, continents, genres, styles and expressive forms. Join Marty as he takes listeners on a journey to de-stress on board your flight today.

ROCK

Marty Miller Radio Nova

IRISH

Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior

TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Two documentaries are on offer from RTÉ Radio 1‘s multi award winning Documentary On One. The first is on Russian spies and their ties to Ireland, and the second is on Pauline Dunne, an introvert who sees the positives in people with quieter dispositions. AU D I O B O O K

Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman. Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney.

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Breakfast Republic on 2FM Jennifer, Keith and Bernard wake up the nation every weekday morning with comedy and music on 2fm. For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic they bring you just some of their favourite sketches and songs which even include some originals by Bernard.


Justin Timberlake

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Pop superstar Justin Timberlake enters a new musical chapter through the release of Man of the Woods, presenting his most exploratory music in years as a result of experimenting with elements of R&B, funk, pop, soul and Americana. Lead single Filthy and ballad Supplies are the album‘s highlights.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Bill Withers Just as I Am Bob Dylan Blonde on Blonde Daryl Hall & John Oates Private Eyes Eurythmics Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This) Michael Jackson Thriller Wham! Make It Big A LT E R N AT I V E

Everything Everything A Fever Dream First Aid Kit Ruins Grizzly Bear Painted Ruins Moon Taxi Let The Record Play The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm Tom Grennan Found what I‘ve Been Looking For

CL ASSIC AL

Benjamin Richter Memory Lane Francesco Grillo The Four Seasons Leif Ove Andsnes Sibelius Michael Sanderling Beethoven & Shostakovich: Symphonies Nos 1 Sergio Azzolini Mozart & Michael Haydn: Bassoon Concerto & Serenade Yaara Tal Polonaise

Craig David Craig David is back with a bang! The beloved garage singer who brought us hits such as Fill Me In and Re-Rewind made a comeback in 2016 and it was like he never left! Now he returns with his seventh studio album, The Time Is Now, and you’ll wonder how you ever survived without him!

COUNTRY

Home Free Timeless Jessie James Decker Southern Girl City Lights Kelsea Ballerini Unapologetically Kenny Chesney Live in No Shoes Nation Russell Dickerson Yours Tim McGraw The Rest of Our Life ELEC TRO

DVBBS Blood Of My Blood Kygo Kids In Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories ... Do Not Open IR ISH

Celtic Thunder Inspirational Christy Moore On the Road Daithi In Flight Kodaline I Wouldn‘t Be Little Hours Too Much Patience Simon Taylor Now Then

JA Z Z

Avishai Cohen 1970 Dee Dee Bridgewater Memphis... Yes, I‘m Ready Keyon Harrold The Mugician Lyambiko Love Letters Markus Stockhausen Far into the Stars Miles Davis Star People Stacey Kent I Know I Dream: The Orchestral Sessions M E TA L

Arch Enemy Will to Power Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Olga Peretyatko, Ural Philharmonic Orchestra & Dimitry Liss Russian Light Pretty Yende Dreams The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

P OP

Camila Cabello Camila Fifth Harmony Fifth Harmony Justin Timberlake Man of the Woods Miley Cyrus Younger Now Paloma Faith The Architect Superfruit Future Friends

ROCK

Arcade Fire Everything Now Cage The Elephant Unpeeled Dreamcar Dreamcar Nothing But Thieves Broken Machine The Isley Brothers & Santana Power of Peace Toto Greatest Hits – 40 Trips Around the Sun

RNB

Boyz II Men Under the Streetlight Craig David The Time Is Now Miguel War & Leisure Nai Palm Needle Paw The Isley Brothers The Ultimate Isley Brothers Tone Stith Can We Talk

K I DZ O N E

Archie Campbell Kids, I Love ‘Em! Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children Carole King Really Rosie Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob Squarepants – The Yellow Album The Backyardigans The Backyardigans – Born to Play

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge. Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.


Our European and North American Route Network

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton

Vancouver

Bellingham

Victoria

Seattle Portland

Saskatoon

Eugene

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Kalispell

Wenatchee

Seattle

Spokane Pullman

Pasco Yakima

Great Falls

Walla Walla

Portland Redmond Eugene

Thunder Bay

Missoula

Belgrade

San Jose

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Grand Rapids

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Fort Wayne Chicago

Oakland

Louisville

Wichita Springfield Las Vegas

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Tucson

Providence

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Greensboro

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Knoxville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore

Lexington

Memphis

Albany

Hartford

Washington (Dulles)

Little Rock Phoenix

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Akron Canton

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

San Francisco Fresno

Des Moines

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Omaha

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Salt Lake City

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Billings

Medford

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Savannah

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

Honolulu Honolulu Kahului Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Preclearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 142 |

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)


Route map correct at time of print.

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg

Amsterdam London London City London Southend Heathrow

Southampton

Berlin

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Lanzarote TenerifeGran Canaria

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir


Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne


For Sale by Private Treaty “Seaview House”, Lower Rosses, Rosses Point, Co. Sligo. A lifetime opportunity to acquire this bespoke architecturally designed Irish residence. A peaceful and private hideaway located in the heart of the Yeats County on Lower Rosses Point, with wonderful uninterrupted views of Drumcliff Bay and the commanding Benbulben. Seaview House is nestled on c.5.5 acres of wild meadow, cleverly hidden away in a sheltered bay with private access to a pebbled beach. Accommodation of c.5,500 square ft, comprising of 6 bedrooms finished to the highest of standards. This fine home offers privacy and seclusion, yet is in convenient proximity to the full amenities of Sligo City just 10 minute’s drive and Ireland West Airport just 40 minutes. Price on Application.

4 Teeling Street, Sligo, F91 HE36, Ireland Jonathan Mc Goldrick MIPAV MCEI +353(0)87 9300300 Marc Mac Sharry MIPAV MCEI +353(0)71 9148884 +353 (0) 71 914 8884 E-mail: info@osmg.ie Web: www.osmg.ie PSRA - 002395-003297


Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

Aer Max

€6.95

€13.95

€29.95

UP TO 50MB

UP TO 120MB

UP TO 250MB

$7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.


WE SPECIALISE IN WATCH & JEWELLERY REPAIRS

THE WATCH GALLERY WE BUY

ROLEX, PATEK & CARTIER

Buying? Selling? Trading? Immediate Cash Payment • Full Range of Luxury Watches

We gaurantee the Best Value for Money Rolex • Cartier • Patek Phillippe • Breguet • Franck Muller Audemars • Breitling • IWC • Jaeger • Omega

Please phone or visit our shop

Specialist Service For Repairs & Restoration, Battery Replacement Watch Batteries Fitted on Premises Trade in accepted for New and Preowned Watches Diamond Jewellery, instore and made to order

DAWSON JEWELLERS LTD., 21 DAWSON STREET, DUBLIN 2 OPEN TUESDAY - SATURDAY 9.00AM - 6.00PM TEL: 01 662 4437 EMAIL: info@dawsonjewellers.ie

Brasserie Sixty6 is one of Dublin’s favourite restaurants in the heart of the city centre. Open seven days a week, we serve lunch, dinner and host one of the best brunches in town on the weekends. Our menu features some hearty, home style favourites using fresh Irish produce. To pair with the food we’ve got a tempting cocktail list of hand-crafted signature drinks and signature cocktails as well as a wine list with over 100 wines from all over the globe.


WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating. Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

Aerlingus.com


See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com


DUBLIN

New GUINNESS® BACON CHEESEBURGER Topped with Jameson bacon jam and GUINNESS cheese sauce, served with crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato.

HARD ROCK CAFE FLEET STREET • TEMPLE BAR DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM join hardrockrewards.com

ARY T N E M I L P COM

O C C E S O PR YOUR PARTY FOR

SIP SIP

HOORAY!

NO I DO WIT HOUT MY HEN CR EW!

2

COU

MENRSE +C OCK U TA

25 €

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley

IL

*T&C’s apply


BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

TOP PICKS Our selection of beauty, fashion and fragrances from this month's Boutique magazine.

TAN ORGANIC SELF TAN MOUSSE The first and only certified organic tanning mousse with no artificial colours – and 75 per cent aloe vera – it is as kind to skin as it is hydrating.

CALVIN KLEIN ONE Embrace summer evenings with a burst of sparkling lime mojito and dewy freshness in this fab fragrance.

TIFFANY & CO EAU DE PARFUM The latest addition to the Boutique family, this floral fragrance comes perfectly packaged just like all things Tiffany.

BENEFIT HOOLA QUICKIE CONTOUR STICK Create a quick and simple sculpted, bronzed look with this cream-topowder stick.

MORGAN & OATES RAINDROP PINK CASHMERE Made with cashmere and Merino wool this soft pink scarf is the perfect addition to any summer outfit.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | FRANCE

Shades OF GRAY Derry-born sculptor Eilis O’Connell had to pinch herself when she was commissioned new work at the villa of avant-garde architect Eileen Gray. ast September, Patrick Murphy from the Royal Hibernian Academy in Dublin asked me if I would be interested in showing at E-1027 – the Modernist villa on the French Riviera designed and built by Irish architect and furniture designer Eileen Gray during the 1920s. The invite came out of the blue, at the time I was busy with three other commissions, but I have always been intrigued by Gray’s work and life. We travelled to see her house in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin in October and I was completely bowled over. It’s quite small, perched on a steep cliff facing the Mediterranean. The

L

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entire front of the building has large glass doors that fold back to let the air flow through; she designed every aspect of her house, even the black-painted basement wall made out of corrugated iron – definitely a throwback to the farm sheds of Wexford. Considering that it was designed in 1926, it all looks incredibly modern and there are lots of little terraces, each one surrounded with lush, mature greenery. Initially I had thought that I’d like to place smaller works inside, but all her furniture is in there and it didn’t feel right. I think that Gray built this house as the perfect place to live with her furniture designs. We met Michael Likierman,

Modernist masterpiece – Gray’s villa E-1027, above, and below, one of Eilis’ site specific works.

who had restored E-1027, and were invited to a photography show about the villa before a fantastic dinner in the house. Because it is a French heritage site, only up to 14 people are allowed in it at any one time so it was like a small and very exclusive house party. We spent about three days in total there, thinking about how the show would work and the challenging logistics, as there’s no road access – everything has to be helicoptered in. Pretty nervewracking, as I’ve never done that before. Terrifying but exciting! The house is open to the public, along with the “Cabanon” – a nearby seaside cabin that was designed by fellow Modernist architect (and Gray’s friend-turned-foe) Le Corbusier – and a little place next-door to that, which was once a restaurant. I found another beautiful terrace in this spot, where I could also place some sculptures. I was just so excited about these spaces for which I’m making new works. Looking at Gray’s use of metal inspired me to return to steel, which was the first material I was drawn to as an art student. Part of the deal with the local mayor is that I will now also show some bigger work in the local Municipal Park in September, so I am making larger works for that, too. I’ve only been to E-1027 twice but I will be back soon to explore the area more, as I feel like I’ve only scratched the surface. It was also brilliant that you could walk right along the coast from Menton, on Promenade Le Corbusier, to the villa. It was stunning – definitely the best way to get there and soak it all up. Eilis O’Connell’s sculptures will be on display at E-1027 from July 21 and unveiled by Monaco’s Prince Albert at the Municipal Park on September 11.


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