October/November 2015 CARA Magazine October/November 2015 Actress Saoirse Ronan Irish Homecomers
Wex Appeal
Wild Wexford
The Wilds of Wexford
French Fancies
New York
Exploring the Côte d’Azur
Joy Riders
Gran Canaria
Cycling Gran Canaria
Queen of the Hill
French Riviera
Maeve Higgins Hearts New York
5 Wine Weekends Agadir Amsterdam
Screen Dream SAOIRSE RONAN’S ADVENTURES IN BROOKLYN
THE RETURNED IRISH SUCCESS STORIES COMPLIMENTARY COPY
WELCOME TO IRELAND FROM AIB CORPORATE BANKING
Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248
Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219
Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment. AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.
Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014. Allied Irish Bank, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.
Contents
90
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Riveting Riviera
Check in 06 ARRIVALS Meeting and greeting the smart fliers at Dublin’s Terminal 2 09 CHECK IN The pick of the season’s best events and experiences
112
22 ON MY TRAVELS Economist onomist David McWilliams’ top trips
Adoring Agadir
24 RISE OF FALL Autumnal hues and textures by Ruth Anna Coss OK DJ 26 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK hts Annie Mac’s nomadic highlights ge 28 WEEKENDER Laura George e checks in to London’s upscale Knightsbridge Hotel 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican criss-crosses the Seine and chats to Eoin Colfer about home 32
FRIGHT NIGHTS Sheila Wayman highlights the best Halloween events
78 Gallant Gran Canaria
34 DOLLARS & DEALS Pamela Newenham charts the success of the Web Summit
Features 36 DESTINY’S CHILD Tony Clayton-Lea talks to the evercharming Saoirse Ronan
42
42 THE HOMECOMING Aoife Carrigy meets returning emmigrants
Coming back home
54 HOOKED ON NOSTALGIA Eoin Higgins rediscovers the wonder of Wexford
Regulars
66 MAEVE IN MANHATTAN Maeve Higgins finds magic in the city 78
112 48 HOURS IN AGADIR Zoë Coleman rocks the kasbah
THE WHEEL DEAL Matthew Hirtes cycles Gran Canaria
90 SUNSET BOULEVARDS Nathalie Marquez Courtney falls for the French Riviera 102 5 BEST WINE RETREATS Lisa Hughes hears it through the grapevine
66
Magical New York
115 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO LIVERPOOL Paddy Mulligan’s Mersey beat 118 SPOTLIGHT Making the most of Manchester 139 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Your guide to smart flying news and entertainment 168 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Special Olympian Kelly Delaney remembers LA
Business
121 BUSINESS & LIFE Niamh O’Dea finds commerce and craic flourishing in Amsterdam 130 SMART TRAVELLER Startup commissioner Niamh Bushnell on Dublin 132 TRAVEL HOT LIST Apps, devices and slick destinations 134 SLEEPS & EATS Eoin Higgins revisits a Parisian legend 136 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Colette Twomey of Clonakilty Blackpudding does the business
Welcome to BROWN THOMAS, the home of the world’s leading luxury brands... Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Brioni • Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc by Marc Jacobs • Michael Michael Kors Saint Laurent Paris • Stella McCartney Tom Ford • Valentino • Victoria Beckham
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Contributors Comedian/writer Maeve Higgins moved to New York last year, and it’s worked out well for the Cobh native – she has appeared on Inside Amy Schumer and is a co-host on the National Geographic channel’s StarTalk. Her new book Off You Go (Hachette Ireland, €16) chronicles her move, which she happily revisits on page 66. “Writing about my adopted city was a dream, this place is so much more than shopping and sights – it has a fun and beautiful everyday life that I love being a part of.”
ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Sales & Partnership Director Rhona McAuliffe +353 (0)1 271 9634; rhona.mcauliffe@image.ie Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Deirdre Purcell, +353 (0)1 271 9615; deirdre.purcell@image.ie Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson Accounts Assistant Angela Bennett
RICH GILLIG
Editorial Director Laura George
AN
EDITORIAL Editor Jessie Collins Acting Editor Lucy White Acting Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Laura Chabal, Zoë Coleman, Ruth Anna Coss, Eleanor Costello, Laura George, Bridget Hourican and Nathalie Marquez Courtney
Known primarily for his work with musicians and bands around the world, Irish photographer Dara Munnis feels most at home when backstage at a festival or concert. Dara has worked and toured with some of the world’s biggest acts, such as Ed Sheeran, Hozier, The Coronas and The Who. A keen traveller, this is Dara’s first time contributing to Cara, and hopefully not the last.
Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Laura George Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Robert Power, Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform
Niamh O’Dea spent eight years working as fashion stylist, writer and columnist in Dublin for leading magazines and newspapers including The Irish Daily Mail, YOU Magazine and The Irish Independent. In 2013, she moved to Amsterdam to helm the creative direction of Zazzy.co, a 3D printing startup that enables anyone to design and sell jewellery. She currently lives near Rembrandtpark with her beloved cat Walter (and her long-term boyfriend).
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.
October/November 2015 October/Nove
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd –
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL CORINNÉ VAUGHAN ON +353 (0)1 271 9622 OR EMAIL CORINNE.VAUGHAN@IMAGE.IE
Wex Appeal
The Wilds of Wexford
French Fancies
Exploring the Côte d’Azur
Joy Riders
Cycling Gran Canaria
Queen of the Hill
Maeve Higgins Hearts New York
Screen Dream SAOIRSE RONAN’S ADVENTURES IN BROOKLYN
THE RETURNED IRISH SUCCESS STORIES COMPLIMENTARY COPY
ON THE COVER
Saoirse Ronan photographed by Rich Gilligan and assisted by Noel Bowler on location in Brooklyn. Make-up by Gita Bass at Starworks Group, hair by Ted Gibson at Jed Root, and styling by Colm Corrigan.
Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free ay aw e zin ga ma s thi take ey. rn jou rd wa on for your e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine
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WHO? Albert and Patricia Boyhan FLYING IN FROM ... Kuala Lumpur via Amsterdam PATRICIA SAYS … “We spent 14 days on a cruise around Thailand and Vietnam, but we haven’t showered in two days so we can’t wait to be clean.”
WHO? Ian Sienicki and Kim Vachon FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago KIM SAYS … “We’re off to a wedding in Kenmare but we’ll pop to Cork for a bit, and attempt to play golf!”
WHO? Edwina Silo FLYING IN FROM ... London Heathrow EDWINA SAYS … “I’m visiting family in Dublin but also planning on taking a trip to Wicklow as I’ve heard it’s beautiful.”
Arrivals
Globetrotters gathered at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 – Cara was there to greet them.
WHO? Luke and Alexander Kenny FLYING IN FROM ... Kuala Lumpur via Amsterdam LUKE SAYS … “We’re sad to be home after spending two amazing months travelling around Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia.”
WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS
WHO? Morayo and Nike Awomewe FLYING IN FROM ... Prague MORAYO SAYS … “We had some mother and daughter bonding time while touring around Prague for three days.”
WHO? Mel and John Torrens FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago JOHN SAYS … “It’s surreal to be home after three months away, especially since I spent last night at a rodeo ... but at least I’m re-united with my wife.”
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SEPTEMBER 2015
WHO? Susie O’Neill and Judith Gibson FLYING IN FROM ... Paris JUDITH SAYS… “We treated ourselves to a 50th birthday trip. We’ll do a driving tour of Ireland before popping to London en route to Hong Kong and then back home to Melbourne and Dubbo.”
WHO? Maria Fusco FLYING IN FROM ... Rome MARIA SAYS … “I was visiting my brother for one week. It was fabulous, we went to the beach and the markets, and I fly to New York next week for my daughter’s 21st birthday – I can’t wait.”
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence. See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.
Take the time to enjoy our MAGICAL GARDENS.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9 - 6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c
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Find out what’s on, where and when in October/November 2015
The Marvellous Hatter
The extraordinary career of Irish milliner Philip Treacy is gorgeously compiled in a new, illustrated retrospective. Remarkably, this is only his second photo book since the 2003 collaboration with his late muse and mentor Isabella Blow. This satisfyingly weighty tome has been compiled by Treacy himself and the fashion journalist Marion Hume. Treacy’s work has been worn by international icons such as Grace Jones, Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness, left, yet the book is surprisingly candid. As well as recounting the designer’s high-profile hook-ups, Treacy also shares personal stories alongside photographs of his creations by fashion legends Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. Just like Treacy’s work, this book is destined to become a fashion history classic itself.
PHILIP TREACY
Philip Treacy: Hats of the Twenty-First Century by Philip Treacy with Marion Hume (Rizzoli New York, £75) is out now.
Check in Compiled by Zoë Coleman, Eleanor Costello, Niamh Wade, Eoin Higgins and Lucy White.
STAY
4 Best Heritage Hotels Hole up in one of these historical hideaways ...
Casa Buonocore, Positano Positano is famously
known as the “vertical town” and to reach Casa Buonocore you have to climb 70 steps. The trek is worth it, as this 17th-century house, with orange trees in a hidden garden out back, remains intimate and quiet, while only a five-minute walk from the Spiaggia Grande beach. Stay in one of just six rooms from €180 a night. casabuonocore.com
Hotel Kazbek, Dubrovnik
Built in 1573 as the summer residence of Dubrovnik’s noble Zamanja family, Hotel Kazbek has remained a luxurious holiday home throughout its modern restorations. Take a break from exploring the old town that surrounds it by relaxing beside the pool or making use of the whirlpool and sauna facilities. B&B costs €116 per night. kazbekdubrovnik.com
Clonalis House, Co Roscommon Once
home to the direct descendants of Ireland’s last High King, Clonalis House has lost none of its grandeur. The Victorian house rests on 285 hectares of beautiful woodland, while the library boasts the largest private collection of original documents in the Irish language. Prices start at €85pp, or stop off for dinner at €50 a head. hiddenireland.com
SMART TRAVELLER
The Algonquin Hotel, New York Oh, if walls could
talk ... Irish dramatist and cofounder of the Abbey Theatre Lady Gregory was allegedly the first woman to light up and smoke a cigarette in its lobby in 1911, while Dorothy Parker and her literatti pals made its Round Table bar infamous. Prices to stay in one of their (nonsmoking) rooms start at $249. algonquinhotel.com
SHOPPING
Stay hydrated while on the hoof with the Brita Fill&Go flask (600ml) – filtration discs leave uisce great-tasting, and negates the need for buying mineral water. BPA-free and dishwasher safe, it’s a travel must-have. €18.99, including four discs; brita.co.uk
ARCHITECTURE
EAMON PEREGRINE/RUTLAND HOUSE
Building Hope
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
The year of Irish Design 2015 continues at the inaugural Chicago Architecture Biennial (chicagoarchitecturebiennial.org) this October 3 to January 1, 2016, where ten emerging Irish practices will be unveiled, including an “intervention” by A2 Architects, GKMP and Ryan W Kennihan Architects at Chicago Design Museum. The event features 63 firms from 30 different countries, so expect an eclectic mix of lectures, exhibitions, theatre and walking tours. Closer to home, Open House Dublin (openhousedublin.com), left, returns for its tenth birthday (October 16-18). Presented by the Irish Architecture Foundation, the free e vent invites nosy design enthusiasts to explore domestic and urban spaces that are otherwise largely unseen.
Style in the City We are in love with Scottish designer Karen Mabon‘s silk, wool and cashmere blend scarves, whose quirky prints – dogs in fancy dress and this natty New York number, above (£110) – are stocked in far-and-wide retailers including Liberty of London and Anthropologie. karenmabon.com
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THEATRE
“It is required you do awake your faith …” The Garrick Theatre, in the heart of London’s West End, is the setting for the latest reimagining of The Winter’s Tale, Shakespeare’s timeless tragicomedy of obsession and redemption. Beginning October 17, this is the inaugural production of the Kenneth Branagh Theatre Company, the Belfast-born actor, right, co-directing with Rob Ashford following a successful staging of Macbeth in Manchester and Manhattan. The play also features a stellar cast, including the legendary Judi Dench (playing Paulina, opposite Branagh’s Leontes). The Winter’s Tale will play in repertory alongside the Rattigan double-bill of Harlequinade and All On Her Own from October 17 until January 16, 2016. Tickets from £15 (branaghtheatre.com). Simultaneously, at Studio 54, Keira Knightley makes her Broadway debut as the titular character in Thérèse Raquin. Thérèse is a quiet young woman with a restless spirit who submits to a loveless life at the side of her weak and selfish husband (Gabriel Ebert) and controlling mother-in-law (Judith Light) until she meets Laurent (Matt Ryan) ... Based on the novel by Émile Zola, this new adaptation by Helen Edmundson is a gripping tale of love, lust, betrayal and guilt. Evan Cabnet (Dream of the Burning Boy) directs. Previews begin October 1, tickets from $47 (roundabouttheatre.org).
JOHAN PERSSON
RAISING THE BARD
The Bloody Irish! will ... A musical stage show ON SI CA OC E TH TO ry celebrations RISING coincide with centena to ar, ye xt ne r tou rld hit the road on a wo ed version of the show me. Meanwhile, a film ho at ing Ris 16 19 the ecial. pbs.org marking rt of a two-hour PBS sp pa as 17 er tob Oc s thi premieres in the US CREATIVE
Designs on London Design forum OFFSET ups sticks this November 12-13 to visit the gold-paved streets of London for a first foray outside Dublin. With over 2,500 attendees visiting its home event each year, OFFSET has become one of the world’s most inspirational, educational and vocational conferences for designers and creatives. The London event will be held at Shoreditch Town Hall and features talks from creatives such as award-winning children’s author and illustrator Tomi Ungerer; set designer/art director Rachel Thomas, left; the legendary Erik Kessels, from frame-breaking agency KesselsKramer; and our very own Maser (see our interview on page 14). iloveoffset.com 12 |
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
MUSIC
Electric Dreams The Metropolis Festival takes place this November 7-8 at the RDS, Dublin, where live music, performance, conversations and electronica-inspired installations will straddle six spaces. Appearances from Chic, featuring Nile Rodgers, above, and electronic music trailblazer Giorgio Moroder are well worth a witness. Other electro luminaries – Jamie XX, Mark Ronson, Jeff Mills, Tiga, Maribou State and Dublin’s own DJ Kormac – conspire to make this festival a welcome sprinkling of digital dazzle to Dublin in November. metropolisfestival.ie
ARANS with ATTITUDE
BLARNEY ARAN ORIGINALS available in all Blarney Woollen Mills stores and online @ blarney.com
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DIASPORA
Streets Ahead When we catch up with the urban artist Maser, he’s in a bit of a bundle. The night before, he was at the Dublin gig of musician pal and collaborator Damien Dempsey – and is now supine on his mam’s couch, surrounded by “hydration and chocolate”. This is, by all accounts, a rare break at home, his primary base for the last two years being Arkansas, Texas. But he admits he’s only there “around half the year”, his career taking him across the globe, creating colourful, graphic, largescale, site-specific artwork, from fluoro geometric installations at this year’s Coachella festival in California to the all-consuming Maser Hotel in Las Vegas, to directing U2’s Films of Innocence at Cedarwood Road. Typically, he’s simultaneously working on “five to ten” projects (“there are so many stages to creating installations, so you work on other stuff in between”) – including his first ever large-scale outdoor installation on his home turf for the Bram Stoker Festival (October 23-26; bramstokerfestival.com). This interactive piece, inspired by the Dracula creator, came at exactly the right time: “As much as it’s great to travel, it’s more special for me to do something at home.” The festival also boasts film screenings, walking tours, a music event curated by Lisa Hannigan and Dylan Haskins, and a spoken word soirée by the LeCool team. Quite how much Maser gets to see though will depend entirely on his globetrotting schedule, of which h e remains unwaveringly enthusiastic. “To fly to a new place, not knowing anyone there, the language barrier, not knowing where I’m staying … I just love that. When I was in Hamburg recently, I was having lunch on the square one day on my own and my phone was dead, and I thought, ‘no one knows where in the world I am right now and I don’t know anybody’. And it just felt great! I had a beer and for 20 minutes that moment was just perfect. That’s what I chase.”
“To fly to a new place, not knowing anyone there, the language barrier, not knowing where I’m staying … I just love that” 14 |
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Cara O’Hagan Partner
Commercial Real Estate
The first rule of success Surround yourself with the best The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Cara O’Hagan, Partner and Head of our Commercial Real Estate Department, leads a team of experienced lawyers advising on the commercial real estate requirements of Irish and international companies and financial institutions. Our multi-disciplinary team advises institutional investors and private equity and alternative investment funds in the acquisition, structuring, development, portfolio management and disposal of real estate investments in Ireland.
Irish Transfer Pricing Firm of the Year 2015 International Tax Review European Law Firm of the Year 2015 Hedge Fund Journal Financial Services Deal of the Year 2015 Finance Dublin Law Firm of the Year 2014 Irish Pensions Awards Financial Times 2012 – 2014 Matheson is the only Irish law firm commended by the Financial Times for innovation in corporate law, finance law, dispute resolution and corporate strategy.
Dublin
London
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Palo Alto
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www.matheson.com
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FAMILY
WATCH THIS SPACE Combining puppetry, object theatre and beautiful music, Bláth is a non-verbal, theatrical show for children that theatre company, Branar, is bringing around Ireland this October 7-11 (branar.ie). It will enchant audiences as they enter a world made entirely of paper with a story based on the children’s book The Flower by John Light and Lisa Evans. With sets designed by artist Maeve Clancy, and an original score from Colm Mac Con Iomaire (The Frames), Bláth promises to be a memorable show. Meanwhile, head to Galway for Baboró International Arts Festival for Children, a seven-day creative extravaganza for children and families offering theatre, puppetry, dance, music, animation, exhibitions and workshops for youngsters and their families, October 12-18. (baboro.ie)
EXHIBITION
ART
Korea in the Burren Ever committed to showcasing international art is Burren College of Art, whose new exhibition by PhotoIreland extols the virtues of South Korean talent. Presenting 60 photobooks from the East Asian country from October 8 to November 7, it’ll be superseded by a multimedia exhibition by Irish artist Caul Audiac. Burren College of Art – Ireland’s first independent, not-for-profit, third level art college – was co-founded in 1993 by Mary HawkesGreene and her late husband Michael Greene, and is a must-visit on the Wild Atlantic Way. burrencollege.ie
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
C
S , IN
Author and painter Christy Brown’s personal archive will be available to view in New York this November with the opening of the Aer Lingussponsored exhibition, Dear Christy: The Christy Brown Collection, at the American Irish Historical Society. Brown is remembered by many as the man played by Daniel Day-Lewis in the Oscar-winning film My Left Foot, but the complexities of his life, together with his struggle to be understood, have only recently come to light. Those very human struggles are explored in this insightful exhibition, hailing from The Little Museum of Dublin (littlemuseum.ie) and running November 1 1-24. aihs.org
MA CY ’
THE LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN/NATIONAL LIBRARY OF IRELAND
HIS LEFT FOOT
PARADE
Float Fun Heading to New York and want to witness hundreds of balloons as wide as five taxicabs and three-storeys tall? Then join 3.5 million revellers on November 26 to marvel at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. Now in its 89th year, it’s Instagram at the ready to capture colourful, one-of-a-kind floats, marching bands and celebrities waving wildly. With the route spanning over four kilometres, and mainly on Sixth Avenue, it means a relatively empty Fifth Avenue is only steps away for some midparade purchases ... Sold! social.macys.com/parade
You can drink Guinness the world over.
The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2015
But you can only experience it here.
The Storehouse is the home of the story of Guinness, and Ireland’s number one visitor attraction. Behind these gates you can explore seven floors of the intertwining history of Guinness, Dublin and Ireland. Then top off your visit in the top floor Gravity Bar, where Dublin, quite literally, spreads out beneath your feet, and the perfect pint awaits.
Book online and get 10% off guinness-storehouse.com
Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8.
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FOOD
4 Best Vegetarian Hot-spots
Executive chef and co-owner of Café Paradiso in Cork, Denis Cotter shares his favourite places to eat vegetarian and veggie-focused food.
LL
É LL JOË
Dirt Candy, New York The move of this groundbreaking restaurant from a tiny 18-seater to a much larger premises in 2015 made a culinary star of owner/chef Amanda Cohen. Most dishes focus on individual vegetables, mining each for maximum flavour, drama and quirky fun. Graze on … Black radish spaghetti with radish ravioli, radish greens pesto and horseradish. dirtcandynyc.com
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L’Arpège, Paris Alain Passard, above, has rowed back on his famous removal of meat from menus at l’Arpège (while retaining three Michelin stars) but his kitchen is still heavily focused on vegetables grown on his own biodynamic farm. The 14-course dégustation légumière menu is a dream. Graze on … For best value, go for the garden menu at lunchtime. alain-passard.com
Bocca di Lupo, London In the heart of bustling Soho, the bar counter at Bocca is a favourite place for a late lunch or a quick early dinner. While sipping fantastic wines and watching the chefs at the stoves, graze through small plates of regional Italian dishes using seasonal ingredients. Graze on … Artichoke alla giudia; spinach and ricotta malfatti with butter and sage. boccadilupo.com
FESTIVAL
MEET-UP
Tasty Kinsale
Feed the World
Kinsale celebrates its 39th Gourmet Food Festival (October 9-11) with a tasting menu of all that’s great about this grub haven. From the Cork heat of the All-Ireland Chowder Cook Off, to the infamous Madhatters Taste of Kinsale (a fun escorted walking tour around some of the town’s best restaurants) there is plenty to whet, and sate, the appetites of adventurous chow hounds – and a great chance to discover more about the passionate food producers of Co Cork. kinsale.ie
Café Paradiso, Cork As I rarely cook in the Paradiso kitchen now, having the chance to eat there regularly makes this my favourite restaurant. Leaving summer behind, menus will now be making magic with autumn and winter stalwarts: squash, parsnips, turnips, leeks and cabbage. Graze on … Braised turnip galette of Portobello mushroom and chestnuts with beet-port gravy. cafeparadiso.ie
Part of the ongoing Milan Expo 2015 (running until October 31) the inaugural We Feed the Planet festival for farmers, producers and food professionals kicks off in the city from October 3-6, hosting heroic guest speakers including Italian Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, and one of the most influential American figures in food over the past 50 years, Alice Waters. The aim of the festival is to “develop new initiatives to redefine the future of food” by bringing small-scale producers from all over the world to discuss ideas, forge relationships and share with attendees. wefeedtheplanet.com
at Whisky Live WHISKEY GALORE ... Find a new favourite tipple s in Dublin Dublin (October 24) taking place at The Printwork d and new Castle and showcasing both the long establishe kylive.com arrivals to the renowned Irish whiskey scene. whis
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Flagship Stores
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Wish you were here Dungarvan man Brian O’Mahony has been living in Mannheim, some 80 kilometres south of Frankfurt, since 2012. Of this spooky shot taken across the river Neckar towards the city of Heidelberg, he says: “Capturing a decent lightning burst has long been a goal of mine and after nearly three years I can gladly say it’s a fait accompli. This captures the awesome power of lightning bolts, which form part of the many storms during the hot summer months.”
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the December/January issue. The technicals: Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and please include up to 100 words about you and the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
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On My Travels
Writer and broadcaster David McWilliams tells Zoë Coleman why economics is too important to be left to economists. Coining the terms “Ghost Estates” and “Breakfast Roll Man”, Dublin-born journalist David McWilliams has made economics a part of the Irish vernacular. In 2010 he joined forces with Richard Cook of Kilkenny’s Cat Laughs comedy fest for Kilkenomics (November 5-8; kilkenomics.com), pairing financial analysts and commentators with standup comedians. This is not his only festival; he and his wife Sian Smyth run the annual Dalkey Book Festival every June. davidmcwilliams.ie e launched Europe’s first economics festival … Right in the middle of the crisis when people were totally confused and terrified. People wanted to know what the hell was going on and the government was only telling people what they wanted the people to hear. In fact, the government itself didn’t really have a handle on what was going on. We thought it would be a great idea to get the best economists from around the world with the best Irish comedic talents and start to look at the big questions. The idea behind Kilkenomics came from … My belief that economics is too important to be left to economists – it needs to be brought to more people and be made more accessible.
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For years, economists have dressed up economics in jargon, making it sound more difficult than it is. But in economics, what is important is rarely complicated and what is complicated is rarely important. Kilkenny city is … A wonderful place to host a festival. There are loads of quirky venues, from pubs and theatres to the cathedral and old courthouse. These settings give the festival an unusual and eclectic edge. The most inspiring place I’ve visited is … New York. It’s hard to beat my first time in Manhattan. I worked there as a dishwasher years ago during college and loved every minute of it. To tell you the truth, I still get a little excited in anticipation when I see the Manhattan skyline coming in from JFK, despite having been there dozens of times.
The worst trip I went on was … Last year, on a family ski trip to Sarajevo in Bosnia. There was not an inch of snow. If I am heading somewhere unusual … I will always do my research so I can get to see something of the place, even if I only have a few hours free. I like to write economics articles from the places I visit – about how they do things and what we might learn from them – so normally I will try to find out something about the city and/or the economy to give me an initial hook for a column. The most economically inspirational country right now is … Probably Denmark. It’s inspirational in the sense that the country has managed to remain wealthy and civilised, give its people a great lifestyle – and still remain good fun too.
3 Comedy Festivals ...
MAT T CROCKETT
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Vodafone Comedy Carnival, Galway, October 20-26 The harbour city will be alive with the sound of guffaws thanks to this year’s rib-tickling line-up, from Ardal O’Hanlon, Deirdre O’Kane and Après Match to Jason Manford, Beardyman and Nina Conti, left, performing in a raft of venues. vodafonecomedycarnival.com
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Boston Comedy Festival, November 6-14 At the time of writing, the full line-up for this annual mirthapalooza has yet to be announced. However, fans of Kimmel and Letterman may recognise Wendy Liebman alongside fellow headliners, contests and screenings in artsy Somerville, some 3km north-west of Boston. bostoncomedyfest.com
The most exotic destination I’ve been to on a work trip was ... Buenos Aires. I managed to get to see the brilliant “El Classico” derby between Boca Juniors and River Plate. For football lovers, this is the real deal, and to be paid while seeing it ... well, it doesn’t come better. The place that surprised me most was … Jerusalem, not because I didn’t think it would be fascinating, but because some places surpass even your most ridiculous expectations – and walking around the Old City of Jerusalem did that for me. Books are vital for travelling … I love to read fiction and read as much as possible. At the moment I am re-reading Salman Rushdie’s Midnight’s Children. I love these magical books that take you into another place and make you look at the world differently.
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Altitude, Mayrhofen, January 11-15, 2016 Expect “on the piste” puns galore at one of the world’s highest comedy festivals that celebrates its tenth anniversary next year. Skiing, music and gags collide at this Alpine outing; previous acts include Eddie Izzard, KT Tunstall, and our very own Ed Byrne. altitudefestival.com
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My Travel Notebook
Dublin-born DJ ANNIE MAC is a fixture of BBC Radio 1. She also DJs at global events like Annie Mac Presents (anniemacpresents.com) – which tours Ireland and the UK from October 30 – while her new tie-in album, Annie Mac Presents 2015 (Virgin EMI), is out now. Here she tells Zoë Coleman about her nomadic highlights.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO GO CLUBBING? “Miami. The weather, the proximity to the beach and the epic seafood dinners … I’ve had some of the best party experiences of my life there.”
LAST TRIP? “A week in Ibiza. We stayed in a villa in the hills and dipped in and out of the madness. Problem was, I lost my passport ... The day that an Irish consulate opens on the island will be a good day for Irish lovers of electronic music!”
MY IDEA OF TRAVEL HEAVEN IS … “A business-class flight to New York for a mini-break with my boyfriend. We would stay in the Bowery Hotel, right, shop all day, go to Juniors in Brooklyn for cheesecake, then DJ at Output in Brooklyn that night.” FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? “The Fish Shack, Ibiza. It’s all plastic tables and chairs on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea in Talamanca. There’s no menu, just a selection of freshly caught fish that day. Coffee is orange and cinnamon infused, drunk black. Exquisite.”
FAVOURITE WEEKEND BREAK? “Barcelona. I love a coastal city, and the food and the history and the architecture are amazing there. Recently though it’s all about coming home to Dublin, so that my son remembers he’s half Irish!”
FAVOURITE PLACE TO DJ? “I love Glastonbury festival, Sónar in Barcelona, and I have had some seriously incredible gigs in Dublin. Also, it still blows my mind to DJ in Russia or Sydney, and people know who you are and your music.”
Annie’s Carry-on Essentials ... 1 2 3 4 5
Kiehl’s Lip Balm No.1, €11.50 at arnotts.ie The Shock of the Fall by Nathan Filer, €12.65 at easons.com Dr. Hauschka Hydrating Handcream, €16.95 at drh.ie Apple MacBook Pro, from €1,499 at apple.com/ie Apple iPhone 6, from €649 at apple.com/ie
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Stepping Out
London’s Knightsbridge Hotel in the upscale borough of the same name is a class act, finds Laura George.
ack in the height of delicious bespoke toiletries to the the boom, I ran into vivid soft furnishings to the Pimm’s an Irish banker on and Hendrick’s Gin in the Library’s Sloane Street toting honesty bar – clearly matters. not one but six bags Staff are super-attentive and of newly minted Manolos from will have already committed your the flagship store. For ages, that names to memory before you check haut tigre mental image irrationally in. They’re on hand to get you into tainted the royal boroughs of the best local eateries, and to pick Kensington and Chelsea for me. up all the other loose ends you trail Thankfully, I’m over it. Just behind. There’s no restaurant but steps away from the relentless room service is available 24/7 and it throngs of the Brompton Road, would be a shame to have breakfast white columned terraces and leafy anywhere than in your vast bed, enclaves are as posh as ever, but no swimming in the finest percale. one’s shouting quite so loud these The ideal scenario? Check in after days, metaphorically or otherwise. work on a Friday evening, wallow In fact, the tourists who amass at in the king-sized bath and then skip Harrod’s tend not to stray very far around the corner to Hawksmoor from its looming façade. (3 Yeoman’s Row) for a gingery You couldn’t find a better base Shaky Pete cocktail and a damn fine in London than the ultra-discreet, ribeye or sole meunière. It’s casual romantic 44-room Knightsbridge but with a gutsy, big city vibe. Hotel, which sits midway Before you know it, you’ll down a tree-lined culbe fantasising about what de-sac. This Firmdale it would be like to live WELL townhouse is an like this in London. GROOMED immaculately In the dream, every One of the best-kept conceived homeweekend you’d secrets in town is Hari’s Salon from-home wander down around the corner. Book a blow (presuming you to the Chelsea dry, colour or cut and you may live in a mansion Physic Garden run into Olivia Palermo or decorated by for a stroll, take Emily Blunt (305 Brompton internationally in a concert at Road, +44 207 581 5211; renowned designers). the Royal Albert harissalon.com). Every detail – from the Hall or pop into the
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Understated luxury at the Knightsbridge Hotel, above.
Serpentine Gallery in Hyde Park or the V&A for a cultural interlude. The latter has a great show on until January featuring more than 200 pairs of extreme footwear, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain. No doubt the banker would find this particularly resonant. Doubles from £330 per night. (Knightsbridge Hotel, 10 Beaufort Gardens, +44 20 7584 6300; firmdalehotels.com).
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THE SCARS MAY BE SMALLER BUT WE STILL WEAR THEM WITH PRIDE In 1990, RCSI Prof. David Bouchier-Hayes led a team in Ireland performing a gall bladder removal using a pioneering technique, now known as Keyhole Surgery. This paved the way for the modern era of minimally invasive surgery in Ireland. It’s another example of how RCSI people have influenced the world of healthcare since our inception in 1784. A tradition that continues today as a gathering place for the sharpest minds in healthcare. So if you’re thinking of a future in healthcare, take a closer look at RCSI. Developing healthcare leaders who make a difference worldwide.
CHOOSE TO STUDY AT RCSI © RCSI 2015
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Bridget Hourican contemplates 37 ways to cross the Seine and talks about a sense of home with Eoin Colfer.
Behind the Lines
Ireland’s Laureate na nÓg Eoin Colfer on reminding young readers of our magical country.
CHELT-LIT
BRIDGES OF PARIS
Don’t miss Caitlin Moran, Bill Bryson, and more – including our very own Anne Enright and Marian Keyes – at the colossal Cheltenham Literature Festival, October 2-11. cheltenhamfestivals.co.uk
by Michael Saint James (Citron Bay Press, $85) Paris has more than 300 bridges, with 37 crossing the Seine, from the Petit Pont, which Julius Caesar referred to in 52BC (it’s been rebuilt since), to the pedestrian Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir, opened in 2006. US photographer Michael Saint James spent a year living in Paris to get to know it well before capturing the Seine bridges, which he divides into Island Bridges, Palace Bridges, and Downstream and Upstream bridges. Here they are in day and night, sun and cloud, empty and crowded, from right bank to left.
WHAT’S THE IDEA BEHIND ONCE UPON A PLACE? I wanted to assemble a bunch of stories and poems set in different locations all over Ireland to remind readers of the fact that we all live in a magical country. Ideally, some of our young readers might be encouraged to write stories about their own homes. All you need for inspiration is to lift your head up and look around. WHICH AUTHORS ARE INVOLVED? A real who’s who of authors including Roddy Doyle, Siobhán Parkinson, Enda Wyley, Derek Landy, Oisín McGann, Sarah Webb, Marie-Louise Fitzpatrick and Kate Newman. ARE THE “PLACES” IN THE STORIES REAL, OR IMAGINARY? Most are real or at least based on real places. For example, my own story is set in the mythical kingdom of Exterios, which is based on Hook Head in Co Wexford. FAVOURITE BOOKS SET IN IRELAND? I grew up loving The Turf Cutter’s Donkey, which was instrumental in pointing me towards children’s literature as a career. I love Ken Bruen and Roddy Doyle and one book that had a huge impact on me was Kevin Barry’s City of Bohane. WHAT ARE YOUR OTHER PLANS AS LAUREATE NA NÓG? I want to keep on telling stories to as many children as possible, paying special attention to ones who might not have had the opportunity to hear live storytelling. Once Upon a Place (Little Island), edited by Eoin Colfer, is available from October 19, €15.99, with royalties going towards Laureate na nÓg. Eoin Colfer and the other authors will be giving readings around the country – for more info visit childrenslaureate.ie.
Take 3… Translations THE KEY/AN EOCHAIR by Máirtín Ó Cadhain (Dalkey Archive Press, £10.95, translated by Louis de Paor and Lochlainn Ó Tuairisg) Published in Irish more than 60 years ago and mor now available for the first time in English, the biting wit and frenetic rhythm of this absurdist Kafkaesque satire on the civil service is brilliantly caught in this superb translation. Bilingual edition.
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THE SEARCH WARRANT: DORA BRUDER by Patrick Modiano (Harvill Press, translated by Joanna Kilmartin) If you haven’t yet read last year’s No Nobel laureate, start with this inquiry into the th disappearance of a 15-yearold Jewish school girl in Paris in 1941. Like all Modiano’s works, it’s short, poignant, spare, exact but elusive, attempting to reconstruct, refusing to recreate.
THE END OF DAYS by Jenny Erpenbeck (Portobello Books) Winner of this year’s Independent In Foreign Prize for fo Fiction, this ambitious novel no spans the 20th century, exploring the five possible lives of one woman, from a Galician village at the turn of the century, to Vienna after the First World War, to Moscow after 1933, then back to the DDR, and finally to a retirement home.
t h e ca s t l e | t h e l o d g e | t h e o l d s ta b l e m e w s
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estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.
Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers authentic original interiors and old-style hospitality and is a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private luxury home rental.
Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan
Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.
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Fright Nights
The Celtic ritual of Halloween is now a monster celebration. Sheila Wayman selects some scary stuff. hilltop in Co Meath is reputed to be where Halloween all began. It was here the druids of Celtic Ireland believed this world and the Otherworld were closest. On October 31, the night that souls of the departed could leave the Otherworld to move among us, a sacred fire was lit on the hill of Tlachtga (now the Hill or Ward) to scare off evil spirits. Today’s Halloween enthusiasts, young and old, like to mark the night by frightening themselves – and there is no lack of events to help them. The “Field of Screams” and “Mutation Morgue” are among, er, delights offered to adults and teenagers at Farmaphobia ( farmaphobia.ie) on Causey Farm in Co Meath, October 16-31. It was voted Best European Independent Attraction at Europe’s only awards for the “scare industry” earlier this year. Younger children can enjoy the farm’s gentler Pooka Spooka (causey.ie), October 25-31. Just a few kilometres down the road will be a torchlight procession up the Hill of Ward on October 31,
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in the druids’ footsteps. Indeed Indeed, the whole county gets in on the act now with the Spirits of Meath Halloween Festival (spiritsofmeath. com), October 16 to November 1. You’re guaranteed a hairraising time at the first “After Dark Experience” in Tayto Park (taytopark.ie) in Ashbourne, October 27-30. Visitors can ride the Cú Chulainn Coaster in the dead of night, racing along at over 100 kilometres per hour and plunging more than 32 metres. That’s recommended for those aged 14plus, while children aged eight and over can enjoy the park’s House of Horrors during the day, October 24 to November 1. The internationally renowned street theatre group, Macnas, will
Gory stories – Tayto Park’s Halloween Experience, above right. The witching hour is nigh at Causey Farm’s Pooka Spooka, left.
3 More Events on the Dark Side ...
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Prohibition: Dance Macabre, Dublin, October 31 A night of “terrible beauty” awaits revellers at the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Kilmainham. A strictly fancy-dress affair, left, Film Fatale’s event will embrace the dark side of the 1920s. Party-goers are invited to flaunt their inner flapper or gangster, or pay homage to the era’s horror and silent movies. filmfataleevents.com
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Universal Orlando’s Halloween Horror Nights, Florida and Hollywood, until November 1 Visit the theme park at night and relive some of the most iconic and blood-curdling stories from movie history, such as An American Werewolf in London, which is back by popular demand to mark the event’s 25th anniversary. halloweenhorrornights.com
put on a traffic-stopping if not heart-stopping parade on October 25 at the Galway Aboo Halloween Festival (galwaytourism.ie), which runs on October 24, 25 and 31. While in Cork, the locals will be walking with the Dragon of Shandon (dragonofshandon.com) in the culmination of a three-day festival, October 29-31. If you prefer to be scared in the comfort of your own car, there’s a classic horror fest at Tattersalls Drive-in-Movies (tattersallscountryhouse.ie) in Ratoath, Co Meath, October 23 to November 1. Finally, a more wholesome affair is the Virginia Pumpkin Festival (pumpkinfestival.ie) in Co Cavan, October 24-28, which celebrates not only the biggest pumpkin but also the tastiest pumpkin pie.
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Castle Dungeon at Warwick Castle Voted Best Educationally Scary Attraction in Europe at the ScareCON awards, this year-round thriller in the English Midlands ramps it up for Halloween with an interactive experience. Less brave visitors can enjoy The Haunted Castle, which stays open until 9pm for Halloween week. warwick-castle.com
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Dollars and Deals Tech entrepreneurs dream of making it big at Dublin’s Web Summit. Pamela Newenham charts its success. hat do Instagram and The Da Vinci Code have in common? The people behind them will take to the stage at the Web Summit in Dublin this November 3-5 (websummit. net). Instagram co-founder Mike Krieger and best-selling author of The Da Vinci Code Dan Brown are among the impressive line-up of speakers at the technology conference billed as a “Davos for Geeks”. Other speakers include Facebook chief technology officer Mike Schroepfer, Tinder co-founder Sean Rad, Liverpool Football Club chief executive Ian Ayre, CSI: Cyber producer Mary Aiken, two-time Olympic gold medallist Cindy Parlow Cone and co-founder of satellite navigation company TomTom, Corinne Vigreux. Founded in 2010, the Web Summit has come a long way from its origins in the bedroom of founder Paddy Cosgrave. The first event had less than 30 speakers and just under 500 attendees. This year it welcomes 30,000 entrepreneurs, investors, journalists and techies for a three-day conference. “We will host 21 summits over three days with nine separate stages
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looking at how tech is changing nearly every aspect of the world we live in,” says Cosgrave. “Along with our traditional stages such as enterprise and digital marketing we will host a number of new dedicated stages to health tech, FinTech and fashion.” Many of the 2,000plus startups that are expected to attend will be hoping to follow in the footsteps of some of last year’s exhibitors, who have since gone on to raise more than $1 billion in venture capital. One such startup is FanDuel. Last year the US-based company specialising in one-day fantasy sports leagues, occupied a one-metre booth at the technology conference. It has since attracted $275 million in private equity and industry
Bono putting the world to rights at last year’s Web Summit, above right. Above left, Ballymaloe Cookery School’s Darina Allen swaps tucker for tech.
3 More Techie Events ...
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TNW Conference USA, New York City, November 18 “The best breed of event” is how Twitter and Facebook investor, Tim Ferriss, has described this conference, left. Previous speakers include YouTube co-founder Chad Hurle – this year, David Byttow, co-founder of Secret, an anonymous social networking app, makes an appearance. thenextweb.com
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Ad:tech, London, October 13-14 This brings together the main players in media and marketing to discuss issues that are transforming the industry. Speakers this year include GlaxoSmithKline global head of digital media Khurram Hamid, Mediacom chief executive Karen Blackett and Unilever chief marketing officer Keith Weed. ad-techlondon.co.uk
investors, and this year its CEO, Irishman Nigel Eccles, will be back at Web Summit as a speaker. The investments flow all year round but money is also raised at the tech conference. Perhaps the most famous example of this is car-sharing app Uber. In 2011, Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick attended the event, and over a pint in Bruxelles pub on Dublin’s Harry Street, investor Shervin Pishevar won him over. Then, in the surroundings of the Shelbourne Hotel, Pishevar signed a deal to invest $26.5 million in the ridesharing company. Pishevar says it turned into “one of the most important investments of my life”. With Uber now valued at more than $40 billion, Web Summit attendees will be dreaming of dollars and deals this November.
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Mobile World Congress, Barcelona, February 22-25 Held annually, this is the world’s largest mobile technology expo. More than 93,000 people from 200 countries attended last year, including Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg. Leaders of the world’s wireless and mobile industries unveil their latest products, apps and gadgets. mobileworldcongress.com
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In the lead role, Saoirse Ronan puts youth behind her in her latest film, Brooklyn. She talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about picking parts, playing realistic women and the prospect of her upcoming Broadway debut. Photographs by Rich Gilligan.
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s far back as 2007, when 13-year-old Saoirse Ronan was nominated for an Academy Award for her role in Atonement, the writing wasn’t so much on the wall as all over the sky: this girl was going to be a star – simple as. And not just what you’d term (perhaps dismissively, or patronisingly) as a “child” star, either, but a bone fide adult one who would make smart work choices based on instinct rather than strategy. But how did she get from there to here? Born in New York, the only child of Irish parents, Saoirse and her family moved to Ireland when she was three years of age. She gained entry, you might say, into the world of filmmaking through her actor father, Paul, who has worked on films such as The Devil’s Own (1997) and Veronica Guerin (2003), as well as television shows such as Ballykissangel, The Clinic, The Tudors (and more recently, Love/Hate). Inevitably, the acting bug bit Ronan at a very young age, and it continued to nip away as working on television and movie sets graduated from giddy novelty to established lifestyle choice. She came to quite startling prominence in Atonement, (2007) portraying the duplicitous Briony Tallis. It was no wonder the Academy saw fit to nominate her for a Best Supporting Actress award (she also received a BAFTA and a Golden Globe Award nomination in the same category). It was also no surprise to see her smoothly negotiate the often treacherous and occasional career-ending path of being a teenager in an industry where youth is regularly sucked in and spat out.
And yet here Ronan is: 21 years of age, looking the picture of self-confidence and assured in the knowledge that she has said farewell to youth-oriented roles. The past two years and their accompanying movies has seen to that: lead roles in The Host, Byzantium, Violet & Daisy, and How I Live Now fully established her as a teenage actor that could appear in virtually every scene and leave an imprint of her character’s identity on your mind long after the film is over. The way she tells it, Ronan sensed the difference in billing from Hanna (2011, which reunited her with Atonement director Joe Wright). She realised that the only options she could take from then on would be – depending on the movie and the director – to either lead from the front or work as part of an ensemble. Twentyfourteen’s The Grand Budapest Hotel (directed by Wes Anderson) and the same year’s Lost River (actor Ryan Gosling’s directorial debut) looked after the ensemble side of things. As for leading from the front – well, say hello to the bright city lights of Brooklyn. In John Crowley’s film (adapted by UK writer Nick Hornby
from Colm Tóibín’s 2009 book), Ronan is there from start to finish. She doesn’t just lead the film, she owns it frame by frame. That’s some level of responsibility, isn’t it? “I was absolutely welcoming that kind of responsibility,” affirms Ronan, who has her slippered feet tucked up under her as she sits in a comfy sofa chair. She has accessory rings on her fingers and is dressed casually, smartly. Her eyes match her demeanour: alert, intelligent, lots of depth. “It isn’t necessarily an ego thing, either,” she adds quickly, “I just like knowing that I’m going to be at work from the day we start to the day we wrap ... so I was more than happy to dive into a film as good as Brooklyn. It’s great for the 38 |
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work ethic and it’s good to keep yourself sharp.” Another major difference is that Brooklyn is an Irish story and, for the first time in a film, Ronan is playing an Irish character – Eilis, a young woman, raised in the 1950s, who makes her way from Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, to New York. A beautifully told story of emigration, new lives, hopes,
dreams, romance, and the assertion of identity and individuality over the social and religious dictates of the day, Ronan sees justified parallels with her own background: her parents left Ireland for New York in the 1980s, reaching out for the American Dream, only for it to evaporate before their eyes. They returned home with their daughter, setting up home in Co Carlow. “The film is also very much our ancestors’ story,” she adds, “and so I felt an extra level of responsibility. That was quite overwhelming, I have to admit.” Brooklyn wasn’t the first Irishthemed film that had been pitched to her. She chose it, she says, “because it took itself more seriously and was more intelligently written than some of the other things I had come across. There have been a few films made in the past – mainly by non-Irish people – that depicted Ireland in a very stereotypical way. I don’t think those films captured our spirit, and so for Brooklyn to come along and really nail who we are, to capture that so brilliantly, is great. “Colm Tóibín’s book is incredible, but for Nick Hornby, a Londoner, to be able to portray so well the spirit the Irish have – and in such a subtle and beautiful way – was very impressive. On top of that, to have a female character lead us through that journey was something quite unusual. We haven’t really seen that a lot in any type of film, have we?” True, but there is something even more about Brooklyn that resonates with Ronan, and that is its representation of women in an era where post-World War Two society has defined them more as helpers than doers. Her head nods enthusiastically. “So many scenes in the film
“Colm Tóibín’s book is incredible, but for Nick Hornby, a Londoner, to be able to portray so well the spirit the Irish have ... was very impressive”
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INTERVIEW
are female centric, and there’s so much interaction between one woman n and another, between n older and younger, who are passing on wisdom and advice, guidance and direction. Regardless of whether her people love the film or not – and obviously usly I hope they do – I genuinely hope that Brooklyn is part of the movement to set a new precedent of women in film.” There are no false claims being made when we state that Ronan’s work choices over the past eight years have been equal parts wise and shrewd. When she was much younger, she admits that she was advised by her parents as to what roles to take on. Latterly that is not the case, so how does she think of her career so far, and the choices she herself has made? “I’ve tried to be strategic over the past couple of years and it just doesn’t work! It’s also just the kind of person I am – I’m very much someone who works off instinct and intuition. I was never trained to do this.”
Ab Above, Saoirse Saoi Ronan leads from the front as protagonist Eilis Lacey in the film adaptation of Colm Tóibín’s novel, Brooklyn.
By the same toke token, she reveals, one on job she was offered off around the th same time as Atonement, would wo have, comparatively co speaking, sp offered her he a reasonably substantial su sum su of money. She Sh refused it, knowing kn in i intuitivel ntuitively – even at the age of 12 – that the type of movie wasn’t the exact route she wanted to take. “I never wanted to be involved in any aspect of my life – friendships, relationships, tasks I have to do – if it’s something that I can’t give myself fully to. When I come across a project and it grabs me, I have to pursue it, so there has been no rhyme or reason about my career so far – it’s just how I feel about the work.” Ronan discloses that, as she enters this new and different phase of her life, she is drawn more towards roles that show women in a realistic light. Considering that her favourite actors include the likes of Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton and Meryl Streep, this admission isn’t too unexpected. “I’ve noticed in the
past couple of years,” she remarks, “that it’s much more of a regular occurrence to speak with female directors about movies they’ve developed, written and they’re the boss of.” In the meantime, there are more films to wrap (including an adaptation of Anton Chekov’s The Seagull, which sees Ronan co-star alongside Annette Bening and Elizabeth Moss). And in a continuation of the theatrical side of things, there is an upcoming Broadway debut – indeed, her first professional stage role – to contend with. Along with British actors Sophie Okonedo and Ben Wishaw, and Irish actor Ciarán Hinds, she will feature in a new production of Arthur Miller’s classic 1953 drama, The Crucible helmed by the Belgian director Ivo van Hove. Ronan shifts in her seat, dislodging a slipper in the movement. A look of mock shock appears on her face. For a few seconds, the movie star – and possibly one of the best actors of her generation – turns back into the teenage girl from Co Carlow. “I’m terrified, but it’ll be good!” Brooklyn is released in Ireland on November 6.
The Likes of Saoirse Ronan MUSIC “I’m always listening to the likes of Fleetwood Mac and The Smiths ... More contemporary things I’ve been listening to include The War on Drugs and I love FKA twigs – she’s really good. Another band I’ve heard recently is Tame Impala – their album, Currents, is brilliant. I also listen to classic rock, a bit of Tamla Motown. Usually, everyone swaps music on a film set, so that’s a great way to keep in touch with what’s out there.”
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BOOKS “I’m reading I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings, by Maya Angelou, right now. It’s amazing. Both Maya and Oprah Winfrey have similar abusive back stories, and Oprah does this really emotional foreword where, as a 15-year-old kid, she goes into how the book really spoke to her, really meant something to her.” MOVIES “I haven’t watched Brooklyn yet, but I’ll be a basket case when I do! I saw Spy, which was directed by Paul Feig, and starred Melissa
McCarthy and it’s so funny. What else? Don’t judge me, but I recently watched the old Star Wars movies for the first time. I’ll probably watch them again. And again. The newish Star Wars movies didn’t do much for me and so I had always thought that that was what Star Wars was all about. But an actor friend of mine said I had to watch the original ones. I just thought they were so beautiful. I also saw Glassland a short while ago – a superb Irish movie directed by Gerard Barrett, and starring Jack Reynor and Toni Colette. Everything about it was good.”
THEATRE “I haven’t seen anything very recently. When I’m next in New York I hope to go and see The Fun Home, above, a musical that’s supposed to be incredible. I’m gutted to have missed Enda Walsh’s Ballyturk. Cillian Murphy was in that – and speaking of which, isn’t he one of the most terrific actors? His instincts are great and he chooses work very carefully.”
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Many young adults left Ireland when the recession hit but now the tide is turning, Aoife Carrigy speaks to the new homecomers. Photographs by Dara Munnis.
W
e Irish are a nation of travellers. Perhaps it’s natural for an island nation to be ever looking outward, ever mindful of what might lie over the horizon and how that yet-unexplored terrain might buoy our fortunes. Perhaps that’s why we’re also a nation of optimists or – as US President Obama described us when he visited these shores – a people “who never stop imagining a brighter future”. Those words were uttered in the sundrenched month of May 2011, during some of the darkest days this country has seen. We were deep in the vortex that had gripped Ireland since that bitter November day six months prior, when international camera teams swarmed Dublin’s Leinster House for the official word that the EU/ ECB/IMF troika had indeed come to town. The recession itself had begun several years
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earlier, as the global ripples of the 2007 collapse of Northern Rock swelled into a full-scale international financial crisis, followed by our own fated bank guarantee of September 2008. The construction industry that had been at the heart of boom-time Ireland was devastated. As unemployment peaked at 15 per cent in mid-2012, there were few corners of the Irish economy and society that were not hit hard by the rapid economic contraction. Many of those who could leave did – filling planes to Canada, to Australia and to wherever else they saw a possible foothold for themselves, temporary or otherwise. Many of those were in their twenties or early thirties, lucky to have not yet hit that age when settling down, buying a house and starting a family begin to seem like reasonable choices. But time moves on and, as the years pass, life’s roots search for a place they might take
hold and thrive. Ireland officially exited the Troika bailout in late 2013, while 2014 brought better-than-expected economic growth of 4.8 per cent, leading to talk of a Celtic Phoenix economy. Many of those twentysomething emigrants are now thirtysomethings looking to shift their lives into another gear. And some of them are daring to imagine that the brighter future they wish for themselves might be one in which they can once again call Ireland home, and not just in the wistful strains of an emigrant’s song. As Barack Obama reflected back to us that May, “Ireland’s youth and those who come back to build a new Ireland are now among the best educated, most entrepreneurial in the world.” We catch up with some of those who have chosen to take up the optimist’s rallying cry of “is féidir linn” and have made that return journey to home shores in recent years.
Ruth McKenna and John Connolly
Husband and wife Ruth McKenna and John Connolly departed Ireland in September 2012. Having trained in recent years as a nutritional therapist, Ruth had been finding her feet in her new field, but slowly. “People felt they couldn’t afford to prioritise their health,” she says. When John secured a two-year Marie Curie Fellowship post at the Department of Geography in Sweden’s Lund University, they jumped at the chance to leave a “negative, fearful, contracted” Ireland. But both were unprepared for how much they missed home – and for the things they missed. “I used to hate small talk,” says Ruth, “but I really missed that banter. I’ve since realised that we Irish have a sincere interest in other people.” They missed “the wildness and drama of our landscape” too, and our “incredibly good” Irish food. Fast forward two years and the pair were happy to be returning, without the security of full-time jobs but with a strong sense of a changing Ireland. While based in Sweden but returning periodically for yoga teacher training, Ruth had witnessed a subtle shift in Irish value systems. “We have less money now but kinder, stronger communities,” she believes, “and we’re prioritising our mental health and well-being.” Dublin feels “lighter and brighter” and, even in hard-hit small towns such as Ruth’s native Youghal, she sees new businesses taking root. Ruth has established her own business since returning, supporting couples undergoing fertility treatment, using her nutritional therapy and yoga skills. Meanwhile John has secured a permanent lecturing post in Dublin. “In moving away, we realised what a wonderful country we have here,” she adds. “Flawed, but wonderful and full of heart, warmth and kindness.”
PEOPLE
Mary Pike When Mary Pike graduated in production design from Dublin’s National Film School in 2005, she was hungry to gain world-class experience. She found it in New Zealand – securing a job in Wellington’s Weta Workshop, best-known for its special effects work on The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies. The Ireland Mary left was riding high and her move felt more like adventure than emigration. “I was always coming home,” she says. “It was just a matter of when.” But “when” proved more challenging than anticipated. “Young creative people could actually afford to live in Wellington,” she says. Ireland, conversely, was prohibitively expensive. “Every time I came home, I felt there was no way I could live here.” Mary rose to head Weta’s department of 3D model-making but eventually something had to give. “I was working seven days a week,” she says, “and there was a two-year period of not coming home at all. It wasn’t sustainable.” The recession and the changes that came in its wake made it possible for Mary to conceive of returning. “I could suddenly imagine myself living here,” she says. “People were being more creative with their money.” A blossoming of “interesting cafés and bars offering good food at affordable prices” was a plus but, crucially, reduced labour rates and increased innovation were stimulating growth in the creative scene and film industry. Last year, nearly a decade after leaving, Mary moved home with her Kiwi partner, Tristan McCallum. Together they set up The Workhouse studio in Dublin 8, specialising in design and manufacture of models and props for the film and TV industry. Leaving Wellington’s tight-knit creative community hasn’t been easy, but working with festivals such as Body & Soul is helping to build networks, and the studio has a couple of “top secret” projects in the pipeline.
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PEOPLE
Brian Reynolds Broadcast journalist Brian Reynolds was one of the lucky ones. Having gone straight from college into Newstalk radio in 2003 and then working his way up to senior producer, he had a good job when the economy began to falter. “But I had become disillusioned with current affairs in Ireland. I wanted to move into TV but there were no opportunities here.” In September 2009, Brian and his partner, Tessa Delehanty, both left their Newstalk jobs to swap Dublin for Toronto, where they discovered a work-to-live ethic compared to what had been an all-consuming work life in Ireland. “I’d ask people, ‘What do you do for a living?’ and they might answer, ‘well, I rollerblade in the morning and I cycle at night’.” The pace of Canadian television production was refreshing and Brian used his newfound downtime to develop other projects, such as Ballotbox.ie which explored the appetite amongst Irish expats for having a vote at home. He also cofounded Balls.ie with former Newstalk colleagues to provide entertaining online sports coverage. They built the site themselves without startup funding but, as it gained traction, they saw it might have a commercial future. By now in his early thirties, Brian realised it was time to “stick or twist” in terms of where they were building their lives, “… and we couldn’t say we wanted to stay forever”. Support from Enterprise Ireland helped Brian come home in 2013 and, with the help of National Digital Resource Centre funding, build Balls.ie to what is today a site with 1.2 million unique users per month and employing nine staff. “The lack of options has forced people to become more creative,” he says. “It’s my first time seeing people trying to build companies themselves, to witness that culture of trying a second time. It’s inspiring.”
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Caoimhe Fox When Caoimhe Fox landed home from a year’s working holiday in Australia, word was that she had made “a terrible mistake”. It was Christmas 2008 and “everyone was saying ‘the country is falling to pieces, you should never have come back.’” A graduate of English, media and cultural studies in Dún Laoghaire Institute of Art, Design and Technology, she started an administrative job in St Vincent’s hospital just in time to witness the severe public sector cut-backs. Within a year, she and four 25-yearold friends had left for Toronto. “None of us had jobs lined up, but it was such a bad atmosphere here.” Everyone who could, it seemed, was leaving. “We were the lucky ones. We hadn’t yet embarked on anything irreversible in terms of kids or mortgages.” Caoimhe’s luck continued in the Canadian metropolis, where she secured a well-paid, full-time job in a bank. She loved her “streamlined”, commitment-free life, but each time she visited home, it became harder to leave. “I really missed that sense of belonging. And I missed the craic, on the bus or in shops. Irish people love to talk!” As the trickle of friends moving home grew, she and her accountant boyfriend also took the plunge. “It was hard, going back to the bottom of the ladder,” she says of last year’s return, but eventually a JobBridge internship with Books Ireland gave her an opening into the publishing industry, in which she hopes to make a career. Caoimhe loves the vibrancy of Dublin life. “The restaurants and pubs are full and there’s something on every night.” The country feels like a different place. “There’s a real positivity in Ireland today. We’re more humbled, more upfront and honest, but also more confident and brave.”
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PEOPLE
Paul Duffy There was a time when there was more work for Irish archaeologists than there were Irish archaeologists for the work. For the likes of Paul Duffy, who graduated in heritage studies at Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology in 2005, it meant “a nice career progression planned out”. Of course history had other plans. After his sector’s “rapid fall-off from 2008”, it became clear Paul could either retrain or emigrate. By 2009, employment levels in archaeology in Ireland had plummeted to just 250, almost one seventh the levels of 2007. “The option of retraining seemed hopeless,” Paul says, so he reluctantly headed to Western Australia. The work on large-scale surveys and rockshelter excavations in the outback was satisfying and abundant. Paul’s girlfriend, Sheila Ní Chatháin, followed him to Perth, but his contracts meant he was away every two weeks in three. Besides, there were other things that Australia could not offer: the changing seasons, mercurial light on the Irish landscape and the unique culture of Sheila’s native Connemara. The couple returned home in late 2012, despite the economy. Paul worked in the financial sector and sourced funding for communitybased archaeology projects. In 2014, he secured a full-time position with Wicklow-based industry leaders Irish Archaeological Consultancy, where he prepares and co-ordinates Environmental Impact Assessments as well as conducting excavations. Paul loves being home. “Dublin is hard to beat: a great city on an impressive bay being turned into a UNESCO destination,” he says. “And there’s fantastic optimism at the minute mixed with the natural vivacity of the Irish. It’s easy to remember the grey skies when you’re away, but there’s so much more on offer.”
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Darren Glynn When Mayo-native Darren Glynn headed to London, it was to be for two to three years. Having graduated from NUI Galway with a law degree and first-class MBS, he wanted to sample life in the metropolis before settling back home. On many levels, things worked out to plan: from arriving knowing no-one, Darren built a broad network and gained invaluable professional experience, first with BT Global Services and then PCubed management consultancy firm. He thinks his Irishness gave him a certain professional edge: “We’re trained from a young age to get on with people,” he says, which translates into good management and people skills. There was just one catch. The Ireland that Darren left in 2007 disappeared shortly after his departure and “it began to look like there might be no way back”. Recognising that he needed to create his own “home away from home”, Darren founded the London Irish Business Society in 2010 and, under his chairmanship, grew it from a membership of 170 up to today’s 5,000. But Ireland continued to call and, when offered a job offer last year, Darren took the leap of faith. He is now an associate director of business consulting at Grant Thornton, and “working on bringing as many Irish back as we can”. Darren is impressed by the quality of life Dublin offers, with the opportunities and buzz of a capital city but surrounded by sea, mountains and green fields. And he’s finding that there’s lots of work out there, thanks to changes in the public sector, alongside the global dimension of the likes of Microsoft and LinkedIn. What’s more, “you’ve got your family close, good people to have pints with on a Thursday night and a city where there’s always something on. To top it all, easy access to the beauty of Connemara or Kerry.”
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A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012
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EXPLORE | THE SUNNY SOUTHEAST
HOOKED on NOSTALGIA
Eoin Higgins takes a jaunt along roads slightly less-travelled, photographing and writing his way through a bespoke slice of Wexford, en route to one of the world’s oldest operating lighthouses.
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In bloom, Terrie Hogan’s “Old Stone Cottage”, Saltmills, Co Wexford. OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
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he Sunny Southeast.” The Irish love saying it, even if the reality is not always as sunny as the slogan might suggest. We love the idea of it too because, for many of us, the sunniness of the Southeast is not necessarily tied up with glorious weather. The sunniness many think of when they think of Wexford is found in childhood memories of buying the sweetest strawberries you’ve ever tasted from roadside fruit sellers; or in the recollection of happy holidays in mobile homes and cosy B&Bs beside pristine, sandy beaches; and in the memories of thatched cottages, crumbling castles, abbeys and other lovely old things that have a distinct aura of Wexford about them. The county is also lit, brightly, with an aura of the comings and goings of people. Clearly, human
“T
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migration has played a large part in shaping Ireland as a whole, but in Wexford emigration, immigration, plantation and invasion have played outstanding roles in forming the county and the people we encounter today. From some of its earliest settlers, the Vikings in the ninth century – the Celts were here long before, as were the Brigantes people before them – through to the Normans who, at the bequest of Diarmuid Mac Murrough, King of Leinster, invaded and colonised the county in the 12th century, Wexford is fecund with a sense of expatriation. And that’s probably why, with its
Top, fresh sea air aplenty above Carnivan Bay. Above, Eoin Higgins delights in rediscovering the magic of Wexford.
potential for happy nostalgia and its smorgasbord of interloping genes and unusual place names, the county is still such a big draw for autumn day-trippers and inquiring weekenders. Add to those lures, a modest culinary scene that exalts, simply, the fruits of the sea and the best the land has to offer, and you have a destination to scratch the itchiest of native feet while gently piquing the interest of curious visitors from further afield. A good starting point, to get a feel for the county, is the town of Wexford itself. Beside a compact harbour, begin your exploration at the weekly market (Fridays and Saturdays) at The Bullring.
“The sunniness of the Southeast is not necessarily tied up with glorious weather”
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Eat at … LOVELY LUNCH A surprising find in Bridgetown, Button & Spoon is a tea room, restaurant and food store. Plenty of love and integrity about the place, mostly in the form of their very well-executed dishes. The “Fabulous Fish Platter” is a good choice: a symphony of the best of locally caught seafood – think ginger, lime and chilli prawn cocktail, hot-smoked trout and a delicious, well-balanced fishcake. Add a glass of chilled pinot grigio and a lunch sensation is born. (Main Street, Bridgetown, 053 917 5772; buttonandspoon.ie)
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CASUAL DINNER If you fancy a bite to eat after your Wexford town sauntering and browsing, lunch or dinner at Cistín Eile is a very good choice. Talented chef Warren Gilles has, understandably, gained something of a following in the Sunny Southeast for his clear grasp of flavour, seasoning and creative ingredient combinations. Try the unique Wexford Rissole, or almost anything else from his unashamedly Modern Irish menu. (80 South Main Street, Wexford; cistineilewexford.com)
POSH NOSH Kevin Dundon has, rightly, gained international renown for his pitch-perfect dishes using the best of Irish ingredients. At Dunbrody House, experience that expression in the form of chef Nick Davey’s executions of elegant, yet never prissy, dishes that give the freshest of ingredients plenty of room to sing. Try the classic Black Sole Meunière, pan-roasted on the bone, for the kind of dish memories are made of. (Arthurstown, Co Wexford, 051 389 600; dunbrodyhouse.com)
Browse amongst an interesting mish-mash of handmade toy, antique and local crafts sellers. Small, yet perfectly formed, a slow saunter is advised here – you’ll be through it too quickly if you rush and you don’t want to miss the highlights ... For young folks looking to re-enact Cromwellian beheadings (and which of them aren’t, once you scratch beneath the surface?), the hand-crafted swords, helmets and heraldic costumes at Real Toys, Real Play (realtoysrealplay.com) are engrossing. There are also plenty of handmade hats, clothing, bags and even a knitted Michael D Higgins (Ireland’s President) tea cosy to ponder at The Needle Works. Other outlets selling bric-a-brac, tasty street food, fine antiques, art and freshly baked cakes are all there for the browsing, and tasting, too. For old-fashioned clobber enthusiasts, just outside The Bullring, Vintage Belle (109 North Main Street, 087 915 6165; vintagebelleclothes.com) is stuffed to the rafters with racks of good quality, 20th-century clothing and accessories. Dazzling eyewear, spiffy shoes and natty rags in various styles and sizes, for men and women, can be found amongst the rails and dressers to buy, or hire. For a light bite afterwards, or to indulge in the purchasing of some locally produced treats to take away, as well as a pretty decent cup of coffee, Green Acres restaurant (Selskar, 053 912 2975; greenacres. ie) comes recommended as a pit-stop, especially if you want to
Opposite, much of Wexford’s fine food comes directly from the land. Clockwise from top left, the Marian Shrine, Rocklands; Pat Walsh from The Needle Works catches up on the news; glitzy rags and spiffy shoes at Vintage Belle.
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indulge in a quick spot of people watching from their airy outdoor terrace. Moving outside the town into the Wexfordian hinterland, head in the direction of the Hook Peninsula. On the way, a superb seafood lunch awaits in the charming Bridgetown, at the utterly delicious Button & Spoon (053 917 5772; buttonandspoon.ie) – see “Eat at” on page 58. If you’re visiting Bridgetown on a Saturday or Sunday, a post-prandial visit to Ballycross Apple Farm (053 913 5160; ballycross.com) is a fun family thing to do. Trek the three kilometres of Ballycross trails through woodlands, along a river and through parts of the orchards, or indulge in more planned-out pastimes with a toddler play area, pedal go-kart track, apple bin maze and daily animal feeding at 2pm with pony rides on “Hercules” afterwards. A family rate for two adults and four children is a good
A nice cup of sea ... a superb lunch awaits at Button & Spoon, Bridgetown, above. Right, The Pikeman statue commemorates Wexford’s failed rebellion of 1798 and the declaration of Ireland’s first Republic.
Don’t miss … JFK HOMESTEAD Riffing further on the theme of emigration, the Kennedy Homestead, birthplace of President John F Kennedy’s great-grandfather Patrick Kennedy, celebrates the story of five generations of the stately dynasty and is still farmed by his descendants today. There’s also a small museum dedicated to “the Kennedys who went away and the Kennedys who stayed behind”, not to mention a delightfully kitsch reconstruction of a 1960s living room from where to watch footage from JFK’s 1963 visit to Ireland. kennedyhomestead.ie WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA Opera buffs will be spoilt for choice at this year’s (the 64th) festival, where a whopping 52 events are held over 12 days, October 21 to November 1. Doomed romance is at the heart of the
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three mainstage works: Ferdinand Hérold’s comic opera Le Pré aux Clercs (The Clerks’ Meadow), Mascagni’s bloodthirsty Guglielmo Ratcliff, and Frederick Delius’ Louisiana-set Koanga, which is considered to be the first opera written about African-Americans. Also in the programme are lunchtime recitals, lectures, gala concerts and the return of the ShortWorks series to Whites of Wexford hotel, where original short pieces and condensed versions of popular works are shoehorned into 60 minutes. wexfordopera.com WEXFORD FRINGE More than 300 events will be held over 17 days this October 16 to November 1, including cabaret, comedy, circus, dance, film, theatre, puppetry, music, and visual art – many of which are free to attend. The open-access nature of the festival
means that anyone with an independent show, exhibition or cultural event is able to join in, resulting in a fringe festival brimming with fresh ideas in an atmosphere that encourages taking a chance and seeing and discovering new things. wexfordfringe.ie JOHNSTOWN CASTLE ESTATE Famed for designing Powerscourt Gardens in Co Wicklow, Daniel Robertson certainly didn’t slack off when creating these stunning, ornamental 19th-century Wexford pleasure gardens. A wonder to walk around, or picnic in in good weather, but, if it’s raining, head inside the castle, which also encompasses two floors of the Irish Agricultural Museum. Afterwards, cosy up with a speciality coffee in the Peacock Tea Room with free Wi-Fi to bring you back to the 21st century. irishagrimuseum.ie
KITCHEN OPEN DAILY 12.00-9.00PM LUNCH | BRUNCH | EARLY BIRD | A LA CARTE
EXPLORE | THE SUNNY SOUTHEAST
Clockwise, from left, keeping an eye on the treasure at Reville Collectables; Richie Miskella selling the best of Wexford produce from a roadside trailer; handmade felt animals by Jamie Lewis at The Forge Craftshop.
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value €15. Don’t forget to pick up a case of their unique Jona Gold, Bramley and Elstar apple juices for your onward journey. Next up, a quick scoot through to Wellingtonbridge. On the way, drop into The Forge Craftshop (Baldwinstown, 087 289 9988; theforgewexford.ie) for a browse through fifth-generation craftsman Padraic Parle’s unique pieces in wood, as well as a collection of local craft exhibits and perhaps take a load off on the sunny terrace, where you can relax with a well-made cup of tea. Further along the same road, towards Wellingtonbridge, you may wish to drop in to Reville Collectables (Ballingly, 051 560 997; revillecollectables.com), too, for bucketloads of stuff, glorious stuff! If you’ve even a passing interest in curio combing, this is a goldmine of old, vintage and fascinating objects. Pick through the mounds of gewgaws in the yard, or head indoors where roomfuls of old things great and small will keep magpie minds enthralled. Get there by looking out for the signs for “Bric-A-Brac” and “Antiques & Salvage” just over a kilometre outside Wellingtonbridge on the R733, and follow accordingly. Ex Wellingtonbridge, on the way to charming Saltmills, take in an eyeful of the forlorn wreck of the Port Láirge by taking the road along the edge of history-steeped Bannow Bay. Older than the Titanic, the
Stay at … FAMILY FAVOURITE Not a million miles away from Arthurstown, Kilmokea Country Manor and Gardens, pictured, is a self-contained, yet modestly grand, family home. Expect homely bedrooms and a friendly welcome from genial husband-and-wife team Mark and Emma Hewlett. A small swimming pool, tasty home cooking and a charming Heritage Garden, including a Fairy Village, add to this one-of-a-kind destination. B&B from €75pp. (Campile, New Ross, 051 388 109; kilmokea.com)
IRISH COUNTRY Dunbrody Country House and Hotel opened as a hotel 20 years ago by Kevin and Catherine Dundon. Rooms are very comfortable but the real draw here is everything else. The luxe country pile has grown to incorporate its own “Local Bar”, cookery school, spa, and recently, a brewery – producing a very quaffable Pale Ale, “King’s Bay”, named after the small bay on which the charming and compact village of Arthurstown sits. Rooms from €175. (Arthurstown, 051 389 600; dunbrodyhouse.com)
GASTRO Opened in 2005 by Billy Whitty and Joanne Harding, Aldridge Lodge offers luxury guesthouse accommodation. Food is a highlight here and the lodge has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2007. Expect comfortable, en suite rooms and a cosy relaxation lounge, all tastefully and imaginatively decorated. Superb views of both the nearby beach, river estuary and the Comeragh Mountains. B&B with dinner from €75pp. (Duncannon, New Ross, 051 389 116; aldridgelodge.com)
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ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MacAREE
EXPLORE | THE SUNNY SOUTHEAST
last working steamship in this country (and one of the last remaining such vessels in the world) was a dredger that was only retired in the early 1980s. Further on to the village proper, take in more ancient sights as you pass by the yard of fascinating Saltmills resident, Sean Finn, an authority on the area’s rich history. His garden is stuffed with steam bygones and salvage, including seven, slowly rotting Rolls-Royces ... a sight to behold, indeed. Heading south from Saltmills onto the Hook Peninsula proper and Hook Head, which is said to have made its way into everyday parlance through the phrase “by hook or by crook”. The story goes that the invading Oliver 64 |
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Cromwell made a vow to take Waterford by Hook (head) or by Crooke (a village nearby) – there’s no definitive line on the veracity of the yarn but it seems plausible and, besides, it’s a good one to impart over a pint at award-winning gastro pub Neville’s (nevilles.ie) in Fethardon-Sea. On the way further down the Hook, Carnivan Bay is a rugged, yet walkable beach on which to inhale gusts of fresh sea air. It’s also a popular surf spot and you’ll probably see a few wet-suited warriors cresting waves and wiping out, as they do. Up above the beach, the cliff walks are bracing if a little scary. Further down the peninsula, on the gnarly, middle knuckle of Hook’s pointy finger, you can, should you want to, have even more frighteners put on you at Loftus Hall (Hook Head, 051 397 728;
Top left, old holiday habits die hard; below, one of the oldest in the world, Hook Lighthouse.
loftushall.ie). Around this time of year “The Most Haunted House in Ireland” offers Halloween tours (for more scary events see our round-up on page 32) for different age groups (over fives and over 12s) and is, in reality, more of a spooky giggle than a genuine frightfest. And finally, straddling the outermost tip of the peninsula, medieval Hook Lighthouse (hookheritage.ie), stands, nobly, as it has for more than 800 years, as a warning beacon to visitors and invaders alike, but also as a guiding light to Ireland’s not always sunny, but always illuminating, Southeast. Follow Eoin @EoinHiggins
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CITY BREAK | NEW YORK
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MAEVE in MANHATTAN
On moving to New York, Cork-born comedian Maeve Higgins wondered if a concrete jungle could really be magical? She finds her answer amongst its bright lights – and some of the sharpest comedy writing in the business. Photographs by Rich Gilligan.
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CITY BREAK | NEW YORK
“T
he most magical, fraught-withpossibility place,” is how the late Nora Ephron described her beloved New York City. She set some of her best writing here too, the When Harry Met Sally screenplay and the brilliantly funny novel Heartburn. Like anyone born in a rainy country there is a goodhumoured scepticism built into my character, but the mythic nature of this place that is so often reinforced in writing and film, has always appealed to my imagination. I wondered if a city, a big rickety mass of concrete, could really be magical? I moved here last year to write and do comedy, and I have my answer. You must see for yourself. Wait for darkness to fall then go to The Top of the Rock (30 Rockefeller Plaza, +1 212 698-2000; topoftherocknyc.com). Simply run up the stairs to the 70th floor – or, take the lift. Out on the deck shaped like an ocean liner, breathe in the cool night air before casting your peepers down and around, over the glowing and glittering city beneath you. The panorama is at once familiar and thrillingly new, the energy and wonder you will feel is nothing short of, well … magical. The lower floors of 30 Rock, Liz Lemon’s old stomping ground, 68 |
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Top left, our on-the-ground correspondent, comedian and writer Maeve Higgins. Above, handsome brownstones.
are still the best place to find the funnies. The NBC studio shows always need an audience and, if you do your homework, you can catch a taping of the most iconic show on American television, Saturday Night Live (30 Rockefeller Plaza; nbc.com). My money (well, the tickets are free but you know what I’m saying) is on Late Night with Seth Myers. Myers is a charming host who seems genuinely curious about his guests and his show has the best writing staff in the late-night business, including the queen of the New York alternative comedy scene, Aparna Nancherla. The Upright Citizen’s Brigade Theatre (307 West 26th Street, +1
212 366 9176; ucbtheatre.com) is the perfect spot to catch Nancherla live; she hosts the cult favorite stand-up show Whiplash every Monday night. The UCB Theatre, set up in 1998 by a group of long form improvisation actors including Amy Poehler, still gives improv top billing. Its crown jewel is ASSSCAT3000, a show that stars such as Amy Schumer and Tina Fey drop into and do bits, then the cast improvises hilarious scenes around them. It’s free in and you can’t book in advance so only serious comedy fans need apply. And they do, lining up outside UCB in all weather. For the freshest voices in comedy, take a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Rest up in the pretty little
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CITY BREAK | NEW YORK
“i think it’s really friendly even though it pretends that it isn’t” park (brooklynbridgepark.org) and take it all in; the dignified might of One World Trade Center and Lady Liberty’s bustling harbour across the way, and beside you, the prancing ponies of Jane’s Carousel (Dock Street, +1 718 222 2502; janescarousel.com). Hop on the subway to Union Hall (Park Slope, +1 718 638 4400; unionhallny.com), the most fun bar and venue I know. There are cosy fireplaces, spooky taxidermy and even bocce courts, the ideal way to flirt boozily with the next table. Downstairs, there’s a great little room where innovative and hilarious performers such as Jean Grae, Chris Gethard and Jessica Williams have regular nights. And me, yikes! I host a show with the writer Jon Ronson, called I’m New Here about being new in New York. I asked Jon what he loves about the city. “I like that everyone lives on top of each other and how multicultural it is. And I think it’s really friendly even though it pretends that it isn’t.”
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Preach, brother! Everyone does live on top of each other; Manhattan is just 22 kilometres long, and little more than three kilometres wide, and home to 1.6 million people – that number swelling to almost double that during the work day. And the greatest way to experience this sea of people is to get your body down and dirty amongst them. Of course Grindr and Tinder work well for that, but I’m actually talking about yoga. A good stretch is always in order after a flight, so head to any of Yoga to the People’s six studios (yogatothepeople.com) for a friendly all-levels class where you wear what you like and pay what you want. On the other end of the workout scale and just as fun, is the very New York experience of a SoulCycle class (soul-cycle.com). My friend Kate described it to me, her eyes shining with the zeal of the newly converted. “It’s like a spiritual cardio party and apparently Lady Gaga had her birthday party there!” How could you resist that? It’s basically a
Opposite, husband-andwife musicians Coyote & Crow entertain the crowds in Washington Square Park. Clockwise from far left, an apple green “boro” cab; Momufoku Milkbar munchies; Coney Island kitsch; Melissa Alves and Marisa Bollman take five outside Milkbar in Williamsburg; chicken schnitzel at Veselka; Ts & Cs at The Conservatory Garden; Top of the Rock appreciation; Red Rooster – one of Maeve’s favourite bars in New York City; El Museo del Barrio, which promotes Latin American artists.
Sleep at … BROWNSTONE East Harlem is a great little neighbourhood that has so far escaped the total gentrification that’s happened in other parts of the city. The Margot Guesthouse, a beautiful brownstone, feels like old New York and it is great value for money. The rooms are wonderful – big and simply furnished with a south of the border romance that sits well in the surroundings. (1698 Lexington Avenue, +1 212 229 9523; margotguesthouse.com) COOL AS By all means have a giggle at the Portlandia extras in the lobby of The ACE Hotel, then join them and get your work done too. Unlike many hipster hotels, the ACE staff is efficient and helpful, smoothing out the business travellers’ troubles while still remaining upbeat and fun. And the beds? Out of this world. (20 West 29th Street, +1 212 679 2222; acehotel.com) HIGH ART Art lovers will lose their minds at the swag on display inside the landmark Gramercy Park Hotel, including work by Andy Warhol, Fernando Botero and JeanMichel Basquiat. You’re close to the everyday vibes of Union Square and SoHo, but still in a comfortable oasis of affluence (or maybe aspiration) if that’s what you’re after. (2 Lexington Avenue, +1 212 920 3300; gramercyparkhotel.com)
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Eat at … UKRAINIAN It is important to have access to dumplings at any time of the day and night, and the Ukrainian legend that is Veselka understands that. Their pierogi place, a charming joint in Greenwich Village, is open 24 hours and is really handy after a show or when you’ve got jetlag or when you just feel the need for 2am borscht. I love it. (144 2nd Avenue, +1 212 228 9682; veselka.com) MIDDLE EASTERN The Sahadi family began importing Middle Eastern food in 1898, moving to Brooklyn’s Atlantic Avenue in 1948. Today, their beautifully organised, elegantly presented market Sahadis is the locals’ first stop for food from all over. Ron Sahadi thinks the secret is their fair pricing. It’s also the top spot to find tricky ingredients, such as pomegranate molasses from Lebanon and preserved lemons from Morocco. (187 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn, +1 718 624 4550; sahadis.com) MEXICAN With perfect smiling service and wonderful food every time, El Paso Restaurante Mexicano is my favourite place for lunch. Order a Negro Modelo and a torta al pollo (pronounced “beer and a chicken sandwich”) and sit on the back terrace, with its cooling flagstones, lush green plants and bright pink flags. Things heat up at night when the tequila flights come out, and that’s fun too. (1643 Lexington Avenue, +1 212 831 3104; elpasony.com)
spin class in a candlelit studio with incredibly loud music. Before my first class, the instructor boomed through her face mic, “You’re not gonna remember anything that came before your first SoulCycle class”. That made me nervous, but fortunately my memory function was not affected. In fact, after class I quickly remembered a little place ten minutes away from the Union Square studio called Vanessa’s 72 |
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Ukrainian legend Veselka, top and far right. Above, the undulating 41 Cooper Square, an academic building designed by Thom Mayne.
Dumpling (220 East 14th Street, +1 212 625 8008; vanessas.com), where I got a dozen shrimp dumplings for myself, their sweet brininess replacing the electrolytes I had sweated out, possibly through my soul. When it comes to experiencing New York’s cornucopia of global food, there are two approaches you can take. I prefer the ruthless targeting of the ultimate something.
Right now that something for me is a Japanese pancake filled with vegetables and either seafood or meat, okonomiyaki, meaning “cooked/grilled as you like it”. I like it with bacon, covered in a blanket of fluttering bonito flakes and a squirt of Kewpie mayonnaise, and have found just the thing in Izakaya Nomad (13 West 26th Street, +1 212 213 6258; izakayanomad.com), a Japanese gastropub in the Flatiron District. The second approach is wandering with an open mind, Action Bronson style, through Queens and beyond, sampling all the Georgian cheese bread, Cajun crab mess and Balkan burgers you can find. For afters, get thee to one of Momufoku’s Milkbars (various
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CITY BREAK | NEW YORK
3 Must-dos …
1
Take a spin on the big wheel at Coney Island. Take the subway and bring the gang! The park is open through October, a gorgeous time to go when the heat has subsided and the faded romance of this traditional old funfair starts to hum again. Trust me, your Instagram game will be strong with those cotton candy and panorama shots. coneyisland.com
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Catch a live TV show taping. Many of the greats film here in New York, such as The Daily Show and its smart little brother, Last Week Tonight. Peek behind the public curtain
For one one of the best views of Manhattan, look no further than Top of the Rock, where our writer Maeve Higgins loves best after dark.
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and see which host is snippy between takes. The National Geographic Channel’s StarTalk tapes late at night in the Hayden Planetarium and truly is a marvellous experience. gonyc.about. com/od/tvtapings
3
The Metropolitan Museum of Art is a classic for a hundred thousand reasons; the place blows my mind every time I go. Sink into the culture for as long as you can then high-five Sekhmet, the Egyptian Goddess of War on your way out. Actually, you’re not allowed to touch the exhibits, so maybe just wave … metmuseum.org
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locations; milkbarstore.com) for a cereal milk ice-cream cone. Some wicked genius created this with milk, cornflakes, brown sugar and a pinch of salt and I’m so glad they did. Oh! While you’re there, fill your britches with birthday cake truffles to bring back home. You know, just as snacks ... I mean, as gifts. How much you feast on culture is up to you, but I’d advise you to really pig out while you’re here. After you’ve hit the Met (see “Must-dos”, page 74), keep walking up Fifth Avenue to explore two less well known but equally fascinating places: The Museum of the City of New York (1220 5th Avenue, +1 212-534-1672; mcny.org) and beside it, El Museo del Barrio (1230 5th Avenue, +1 212 831 7272; elmuseo.org). The former hosts artworks depicting the city and its social changes throughout the years. I’m looking forward to a crowd-sourced photography exhibit which opens October 20 – in time for the marathon on November 1, which draws a huge crowd. Its neighbour is New York’s leading Latino cultural institution, which welcomes visitors of all backgrounds to the artistic landscape of Puerto Rican, Caribbean, and Latin American culture. A nice thing is that when you pay into one, admission to the other is free. 76 |
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ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY
CITY BREAK | NEW YORK
Leaf encounters – until Fall arrives, The Conservatory Garden is abundant with greenery.
The Conservatory Garden (centralpark.com), Central Park’s sixacre designated “Quiet Zone” is right across the street – a beautiful place to regroup in. There are often bridal photo shoots happening, which I love to watch. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a groom; just brides holding in their tummies while bridesmaids fuss about, tamping off perspiration and touching up lipgloss. Afterwards, put your freakum dress on and head north to Harlem and see if you can get a spot at the coolest bar in town, The Red Rooster (310 Malcolm X Boulevard, +1 212 792 9001; redroosterharlem.com). Funds permitting, a dreamy way to see the city is from a helicopter (zipaviation.com). From up high, the character of each block is distinct and the monuments look like little
toys in a well-organised nursery. From the sky or back down on Earth, this is a stunning city, one you will not forget. Back now to the wise Nora Ephron. Her writing evokes a real love for the place, like in these lines from her novel Heartburn. “I look out the window and I see the lights and the skyline and the people on the street rushing around looking for action, love and the world’s greatest chocolate chip cookie, and my heart does a little dance.” In New York City, your heart will do a little dance too, if you let it. Follow Maeve @maevehiggins AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK TWICE DAILY, AND FROM SHANNON ONCE DAILY.
Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´
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EXPLORE | GRAN CANARIA
About the size of Greater London, Gran Canaria can be explored on two wheels or four. Matthew Hirtes points you in the right direction. Photographs by Mark Duggan.
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“A
MARCOS DERADA
EXPLORE | GRAN CANARIA
nd here we have the sleeping giant. Look ok down and you can see he’s having the sweetest eetest of dreams.” The 48-kilometre Free Motion (free-motion.com) e-bike tour I’m on is a stop-start one, as Austrian guide Manfred likes to point out interesting sights on the way, ushering us into a convenient off-road space. In this case, to take in a curious rock formation just outside Ayacata – a surprisingly green and pleasant hamlet in the heart of Gran Canaria, a world away from the tourist resorts, such as the tour’s starting point, the (in)famous Playa del Inglés. 80 |
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Top, Free Motion eBike cyclists admire the views. Above, our man in the saddle, Matthew Hirtes.
Locals know this site as Se Sepultura de Gigante (Giant’s Gr Grave). According to Canarian my mythology, two giants called Ti and Jana used to live at the Tira bottom of the Barranco de Tirajana (Tirajana ravine). When Tira killed Jana by hitting him with a rock, he let out a howl of anguish which saw his soul escape through his open mouth. But back to the e-bikes. You’re probably thinking of a vehicle that takes you from A to B at the touch of a button, without any legwork. While such bikes exist, Free Motion’s models are pedalos. So, unless you’re pedalling, you’re not going anywhere (although it’s pleasurable, when the road gets
too steep, to enlist some electric assistance). The old proverb about cheating and prosperity doesn’t seem to apply on a hot summer’s day in the mountains of Gran Canaria. I’ve lived here, 1,250 kilometres south of the Iberian peninsula – and a mere 210 kilometres east of Africa – since 2004. My base is the capital, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, in the north-east of the island. The Canary Islands are an autonomous region with Spain’s youngest population. Gran Canaria’s first city has earned the nickname “Little Havana”, as its inner-city-with-a-beach, La Isleta, is among the most densely populated neighbourhoods in Europe. The airport in the middle east of the island lies roughly equidistant
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EXPLORE | GRAN CANARIA
Five Events to Travel for …
1
Carnaval de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (January-February) A month-long party sees more cross-dressing than at a Little Britain fan convention. There’s a carnival queen contest but the hotter ticket is the drag queen competition. The carnival ends with the Burial of Sardine, which is the island’s equivalent of Fireworks Night.
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Fiesta de la Rama, Agaete (August) In pre-Spanish Gran Canaria, the canarii used to thrash the Atlantic with palms. It was a religious ceremony to bring rain. Agaete locals recreate this in early August, carrying palms down from the Tamadaba mountains above to the Puerto de las Nieves.
3
Fiesta en Honor de Nuestra Señora del Pino, Teror (September) What feels like the whole island descends on the pretty town of Teror each September 7. They’re making a pilgrimage to the island’s patron saint. Pilgrims traditionally walk from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, carrying offerings which they deposit at the town’s church.
4
Fiesta del Charco, La Aldea de San Nicolás (September) You’ll get wet if you attend this fiesta on September 11. Here, 20,000 revellers attempt to catch fish in a lagoon using their bare hands. It’s another party whose origins date back to aboriginal Gran Canaria.
5
Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (November) ARC is the World Cruising Club’s annual event, which brings more than 200 boats and 1,200 sailors to the Muelle Deportivo in the capital. They’ll race each other over 2,700 nautical miles, with the winner the first to reach the Caribbean island of Saint Lucia.
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The whitewashed Agaete, a municipality in northwest Gran Canaria.
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Wild beauty – the island has natural treasures aplenty, not least its many rock formations.
to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and the area’s major southern resorts of Playa del Inglés and Maspalomas – around a half-hour’s drive from each. Closer to the aeropuerto, you’ll find Telde, the oldest of the Canarian municipalities, established by papal decree in 1351; missionary monks from Mallorca were keen on setting up a bishopric in the socalled Fortunate Islands. The Balearics seem far away as Manfred alerts our attention to a cave house for sale. The canarii (Berber descendants), who were conquered by the Spanish at the end of the 15th century, predominately lived in caves. These days, 60,000 of Gran Canaria’s inhabitants reside in cave homes – nearly 7.5 per cent of the island’s population. As we begin our descent to our final destination of the south-west’s Puerto de Mogán, the quiet resort beside noisy neighbour Puerto Rico and its proliferation of bars, we can see the road down is full of u-bends. We take the curves, the
near-constant peace and silence punctured by the odd shout of “Auto!” from my predominately German-speaking tour companions. The next day, I’m travelling by four wheels, with driver Francisco and guide Juan Carlos to visit La Fortaleza de Ansite, one of the most significant relics of Gran Canaria’s aboriginal history. “The last time I was on this road [the winding GC65], I was driving Ridley Scott,” says Francisco. Turns out the director was scouting locations for Exodus (2014), and was really interested in using La Fortaleza – until the modern houses in the background put him off. Stopping off at the Mirador El Guriete, one of the many great viewpoints on the island, I get an eyeful of the Fortaleza de Ansite, a natural fortress formed from a basalt outcrop of the Tirajana Ravine. We drive down and are transported to April 29, 1483, when the last remaining canarii were holed up. Surrounded by forces loyal to the Castilian commander Pedro
the balearics seem far away as our attention is alerted to a cave house ... 84 |
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Eat at ... SCENIC You’ll struggle to find a restaurant with a better view on Gran Canaria than at the mid west’s Restaurante Mirador La Cilla, offering vistas of iconic Roques Bentayga and Nublo. If the crisp mountain air is too chilling, warm up with a potaje de jaramago (wild rocket stew). And if you want to do something more energetic than admire the vista, there’s a conveniently-located foosball table. (Camino de la Cilla 9, Artenara, +34 928 666 227) FISHY A virtual no-go area for vegetarians unless you let them know in advance, the capital’s Nautilo features a menu where everything tastes of the nearby Atlantic. Rice comes with the richest, fishiest stock, and octopus and tuna are menu staples. Around the corner from Las Canteras’ emblematic Auditorio Alfredo Kraus, you can easily reach Nautilo on the number 25 city bus. (Calle Covadonga 2, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, +34 928 052 401; nautilolaspalmas.com) ROMANTIC Part-owned by Manchester City and Spain midfielder David Silva, Amadores Beach Club offers creative cuisine in chilled-out surroundings. There’s a pool if you want to cool down even further, although this venue is best visited to watch the sun set. As you sip on a cubata (Arehucas rum and coke), the island’s favourite drink. (Playa de Amadores, Mogán, +34 928 560 072; amadoresbeachclub.com)
Wishing the Irish rugby team the best of luck in the World Cup 2015!
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EXPLORE | GRAN CANARIA
Stay at … STYLISH The five-star Seaside Palm Beach wouldn’t look out of place in Miami. However, it’s family friendly as well as chic, so kids are more than welcome. For a change from the pool, the beach at Maspalomas is within walking distance. As is the Charca, which attracts migratory birds travelling south for the season. (Avenida del Oasis, Maspalomas, +34 928 721 032; hotel-palm-beach.co.uk) RUSTIC Welcome to Gran Canaria’s Bedrock. Artenara houses around 20 per cent of Gran Canaria’s 2,000 cave houses and you can live the life of the Flintstones with a stay at an
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Artenatur property. Wind down with a bottle of Artenara wine and/or artisan bread spread with local honey. (Barrio Las Arvejas 38a, Artenara, +34 649 992 636; artenatur.com) HIPSTER It seems if you’re a guy working at Playa del Inglés’ Gold by Marina, a beard is de rigueur. Staff wear ripped jeans and non-formal shirts. Yet this is the south of the island at its most gentrified, as the resort moves away from its reputation as a Club 18-30 hotspot. (Avenida Estados Unidos de America 15, Playa del Inglés, +34 928 948 555; goldbymarina.com)
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Clockwise from left, Miami chic at the colourful Seaside Palm Beach resort; Don Bartolomé Rodríguez López, the owner of Bar Restaurante Tagoror; a Canarian staple, papas arrugadas – potatoes served with a spicy mojo sauce, and catching a breath on the Free Motion e-biking tour. Opposite, a road less-travelled.
de la Vera, the majority of the aborigines surrendered. All except leaders Bentejuí and Tazarte, who jumped to their deaths instead and became Canarian folk heroes. At the end of April each year, locals pay their respects here. We follow the Barranco de Guayadque, a ravine between the rival south-easterly municipalities of Agüimes and Ingenio. Lunch is at the Restaurante Tagoror (restaurantetagoror.com), a cave restaurant that has been serving traditional Canarian food for nearly 40 years. We feast on potaje de berros (watercress stew, a favourite of the northern wetlands, Firgas); papas arrugadas con mojo rojo (salty boiled new potatoes with a spicy red sauce), the Canary Islands’ signature dish; and mousse de gofio (made from the canarii staple, toasted cornmeal), rumoured to be the reason for Canarians being taller and stronger than their Spanish mainland compatriots. Gran Canaria is also easily negotiable by foot. The island even has its own Camino de Santiago. Traditionally, this was a route taken by pilgrims travelling from the Church of St James in the centre of the island’s Tunte, to Gáldar’s equivalent in the north-west. This trail though has since been extended to Playa del Inglés, transforming it into a three-day, 75-kilometre, coastto-coast trek. It’s on shanks’ pony that I’m shown around the Jardín Canario Botánico Viera y Clavijo (jardincanario.com) by Trip Gran Canaria’s Bruno and fellow guide Fran (tripgrancanaria.com). Outside is a bust of the multi-talented Viera y Clavijo, whom the latter describes as “the Canary Islands’ version of Leonardo da Vinci”. Inside is a statue of the Swedish botanist Erik Ragnor Svensson, who changed his name to the Latin Sventenius. In 1952 he started working at Tenerife’s botanic garden in La Orotava, cataloguing Canarian flora before opening a Gran Canarian version to continue the pioneering work started by Viera y Clavijo a century before. Our group OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
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ILLUSTRATION BY ELLY WALTON
EXPLORE | GRAN CANARIA
pauses for photos in front of endemic plants such as the cardón, the symbol of Gran Canaria, although I personally prefer to lose myself in the Bosque de Laurísilva, a facsimile of the laurel forest that once covered the whole of Macronesia. Next we take a coffee break in Santa Brígida, which resembles an Alpine village – without the snow. This is the island’s main wine region, its volcanic lands giving vintages a distinctive flavour. If you’ve only time to visit one vineyard, make it Los Berrazales (bodegalosberrazales. com) in the north-west valley of Agaete. Run by the Lugo-Jorge family, this bodega trebles as a coffee plantation, the most northerly in the world, and also a tropical fruit farm. Afterwards, it’s well worth exploring the whitewashed village of Agaete itself. Visit Bar El Perola in the main square, where larger-thanlife owner Pepe doles out monkey nuts. Join the locals in throwing the shells on the wooden floor. It’s good for the wood, apparently. The north of the island is home to some tremendous beaches too. 88 |
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Top left, beaches are easy to come by on Gran Canaria, an island that’s around the size of Greater London. Above left, a motto to live by for one cyclist.
El Juncal is located at the bottom of a ravine of the same name between Agaete and Gáldar – a fair schlep off the GC-2 motorway, but you’re rewarded with a pretty stone beach which, on weekdays, you can often have all to yourself. The ocean can get quite capricious here, with natives trying to tame the Atlantic by constructing natural swimming pools. The pick of these are San Felipe’s Charco de San Lorenzo and Santa María de Guía’s Roque Prieto. Our next stop with Trip Gran Canaria is a viewing point overlooking the Caldera de Bandama, a volcanic crater 569 metres above sea level, which measures 1,000 metres wide and 200 metres deep. Instead of taking the half-hour trek to the bottom where a hermit still lives, we visit a bunker built on Franco’s orders during the Second World War. The Canary Islands have long been considered strategically important and Franco’s Pilgrim Plan was
installed to protect them from attack by Allied forces. Back home in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, I hop on one of the city bikes (bybikelpa.com). Unlike the Dublin versions, though, they are free to use. All you need is a smartphone or bus pass. Using the wind to whizz along the Avenida Marítima – the best place to eat in the city, connecting the capital’s Puerto de la Luz, the mid-Atlantic’s first port, with the former fishing village of San Cristóbal – it really does feel like cheats do prosper after all. Follow Matthew @MatthewHirtes For more info, visit grancanaria.com CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.
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Sunset Boulevards Cliffside twists and turns, celebrity spotting and eyewateringly beautiful sunsets – it could only be the Côte d’Azur. Camera in hand, Nathalie Marquez Courtney embarks on a romantic road trip à deux.
The iconic pink dome of Hôtel Le Negresco in Nice, a Belle Époque beauty.
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fear we won’t make it out alive. We have just arrived at Nice airport and I had been envisaging a pink French Riviera sunset and a glass of chilled Provençal rosé. Instead, I’m squinting and zooming into a map on my phone, trying to shout out directions and ignore the beeping, speeding cars that whiz by. Forget our hotel in Cannes; our new home is the M99 roundabout now. But it wouldn’t be a road trip without at least one drivingon-the-wrong-side-of-theroad scrape. Half an hour later, we’ve found our sea legs, arrived in Cannes and I’ve got what I came for – my first Côte d’Azur sunset. While the dazzling blue of the sky and the sea is what makes it onto most postcards, I’ll bet it’s the flushed, magical, dusky BEN KEENAN
I
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Clockwise from below: Roadtripper Nathalie Marquez Courtney; the view from Hotel Splendid, Cannes; lunch at La Tonelle, on Île Saint-Honorat.
sunset that made the likes of Henri Matisse, F Scott Fitzgerald and Coco Chanel all fall in love with the place. The glass of rosé now firmly in hand doesn’t hurt either. My boyfriend, Ben, and I are here on a romantic road trip – and to prove to ourselves that the two are not mutually exclusive. We flew into Nice but decide to start at Cannes and work our way back up, which makes for a much more stress-free airport departure. Although Cannes is five times smaller than Nice, the region’s capital, it’s far more
famous. The city has elevated the trade convention to an art form and was making a tidy living out of business tourism before the term had been invented. Of course, Cannes is best known for its annual glam-fest, the Cannes Film Festival in May (festivalcannes.com). Starlets and studs have been posing on La Croisette since the first festival in 1947, and it’s exciting to see the palm trees and strangely familiar-looking architecture that usually serves as a backdrop to the main celeb attractions. Every major movie star
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5 French Riviera Highlights …
1
Drive the Grande Corniche Road trips don’t get much prettier than this dramatic, undulating cliff ride, which snakes from Nice to Menton on the Italian border. Not for the fainthearted for its twists and turns, the Corniche was designed in 1796 by the L’École des Ponts et Chaussees in Paris, the world’s first civil engineering school, and continues to attract car advertisers to its scenic sections overlooking shimmering waters and superyachtstudded marinas.
2
Lunch at Île Saint-Honorat One of the area’s lesser-known Lérins Islands, Île Saint-Honorat is a must-visit on your Côte d’Azur itinerary. Serene and scenic, it’s little wonder that monks have been living on the island for 1,600 years. Wild pheasants roam across its pretty landmass that also includes a restaurant, shops, picnic benches and a winery. Walk off your lunch with a visit to the old fortress – the views from the top are well worth the effort. Ferries to/from Cannes take around 20 minutes.
3
Sunset cocktails at Le Chateau de la Chevre d’Or A trip to the French Riviera isn’t complete without a day-trip to the picture-perfect medieval village of Èze, aka the “Eagle’s nest”. Its bird’s-eye views of St-Jean-Cap Ferrat are why superlatives were invented – making the luxury hotel Le Chateau de la Chevre d’Or the perfect spot from which to perch with a sundowner tipple on its beatific terrace. chevredor.com
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4
Market shopping in Vieux Nice Nice eschews naff ornaments for flowers, spices, handmade soaps, antiques, bric-a-brac and charcuterie at the open-air market in Cours Saleya – souvenirs you actually want to keep rather than give away. Stock up and step back to admire your discerning taste.
5
Visit Eileen Gray’s E-1027 Modernism fans mustn’t miss this extraordinary seafront villa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, designed by the Irish architect and furniture designer between 1926-29. The property’s history has been nothing short of dramatic, with a string of thwarted and/or dubious renovation attempts – and a feud with Le Corbusier. Finally it opened to the public this summer, though closes its doors from November to April 2016. e1027.org
has been to Cannes at least once in their lifetime. But locals are quick to point out that the festival really does put the business into showbiz, with deals being done at every yacht, bar and restaurant. When the conventions are on, though, the city is full and expensive. It can feel like you’ve wandered into a giant house party you weren’t invited to. Most locals recommend avoiding it altogether, though that doesn’t stop flocks of French families day-tripping to the city to queue up for selfies and autographs during the film festival. We pick a quiet time to visit and are pleasantly surprised by the relaxed mood. We stroll along La Croisette in the morning, before scoping out the Forville Market in the Old Town (11 Rue du Marché Forville). It’s busy and industrious, with the market very much in use by locals, here to chat and catch up as much as to shop. We have our first bite of socca, a simple roasted chickpea pancake that’s a local speciality, baked in a fiery clay oven on the spot and eaten just as quickly. The joke goes that even if you’re not hungry, you can still eat socca. If you want to pack a picnic, here’s where you do it – though we also can’t resist a trip to Ceneri, a traditional cheese shop serving delicious local goat’s cheese (22 Rue Meynadier, +33 493 396 368; fromagerie-ceneri.com). Cannes is very cruise-friendly, so we escape the afternoon crowds and hop on a small ferry headed for Île Saint-Honorat, a tiny island less than a mile off the coast (cannes-ilesdelerins.com). In its 10th-century heyday, it was inhabited by more than 500 monks (legend – and a bilingual plaque – has it that our own St Patrick studied here in the fifth century). Now, only 22 cloaked, quiet monks call it home, though they are an industrious lot, producing elegant fruity wine and liqueurs. We tuck into a 2011 Chardonnay over lunch at the island’s one and only restaurant, La Tonelle, (+33 492 995 408; tonnelle-abbayedelerins.fr). Here, starters consist of juicy, ripe tomatoes and oozing mozzarella,
while our mains nod their cap to our seaside surrounds – grilled sea bass, topped with finely chopped radishes, sweet peppers, courgette and chickpea chips. We plan to work it off with a stroll around the island but don’t get far, as it’s just 1.5 kilometres long and 400 metres wide. Instead, we climb to the top of the crumbling ruins of the fortress monastery, at the very edge of the island, before heading back. I want to make the most of every sunset, so, as the sun begins its descent into the Maritime Alps, we check out the area for rooftop bars. Surprisingly, Cannes doesn’t have that many – most hotels give their rooftops over to the signature suites, so unless you’re Jennifer Lawrence’s BFF, head to the Radisson Blu (2 Boulevard Jean Hibert, +33 492 997 320; radissonblu.com). They offer cocktails in their chilled lounge on the seventh floor, with impressive views over the bay that made for a fun game of “which yacht’s the hugest?” We still want to get just a little peek at what the celeb scene on the Côte d’Azur might be like, so we hop in our rental car and make for Antibes, to MAMO Le Michelangelo (2 Rue des Cordiers; +33 493 340 447; michelangelomamo.com). The Riviera A-list hot-spot has just opened its second restaurant in SoHo, New York, but it
Opposite: Electric blue views on the road to Menton. This page, clockwise from right: Nancy Sirito serves up seabass and chickpea chips at La Tonelle; David Faure, head chef at Aphrodite, Nice; leaving Roquebrune-CapMartin; the Lérins Cistercian Abbey Monastery on Île Saint Honorat.
Pid quae aut ende non con cus quam non cone velignitem et reped mo eaquis et aut optaspernati nobis sequae et
Eat at … NICE Formal yet friendly servers; an airy, bright room; and platefuls of the mad gastro-science of chef David Faure make Aphrodite a restaurant you won’t want to leave. Cooking is proper molecular gastronomy; so expect bubbling potions, avant-garde plating techniques and taste and flavour combos that wow. (10 Boulevard Dubouchage, +33 493 856 353; restaurant-aphrodite.com) NICE At Restaurant JAN expect seasonal produce inspired by the markets of the French Riviera. The foundation for the cooking is drawn from the classical French repertoire and combined with chef Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s love for all things South African. Hence, dishes ranging from guinea fowl cooked with apple butter, girolles, romanesco and summer truffles, to an exquisite chocolate mousse served with peanut-butter powder and roasted banana sorbet, feature on an always interesting menu. (12 Rue Lascaris, +33 497 193 223; restaurantjan.com) MENTON An ex-stager with Alain Passard at l’Arpége (see Denis Cotter’s 4 Best Vegetarian Experiences, page 18) and Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, both in Paris, Argentinian-born chef Mauro Colagreco has a thorough pedigree behind him. Yet there is no room for resting on laurels in the stunning Art Deco room of Mirazur overlooking the Mediterranean. The €55 three-course menu is a steal. (30 Avenue Aristide Briand, +33 492 418 686; mirazur.fr) OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
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Sleep at … CANNES Set apart from the hubbub of port-side glamour, the peaceful Idéal Séjour is a den of cool respite and even cooler decor flourishes. Recommended by Lonely Planet, as well as the prestigious Michelin Guide, the property comprises a bijou library, a relaxing, shaded terrace and highly individual, bright rooms. The other notable thing here is the amazing breakfast set-up in the garden, featuring the crispiest, and simultaneously softest, home-made croissants we’ve ever tasted, served with excellent coffee and a zesty marmalade ... bliss. Doubles from €89 per night, room only. (6 Allée du Parc des Vallergues, +33 493 391 666; ideal-sejour.fr)
Above, fresh croissants and orange juice at the Hotel Ideal Séjour. Below, the view from Eileen Gray’s villa in RoquebruneCap-Martin.
will have to work hard to beat the number of stars who have been to the French original – a veritable who’s who of Hollywood (including Brad and Angie, Robert Pattinson, Leonardo DiCaprio and Rihanna), and most people have cheerfully posed for pictures with owner Herve Mammoliti. The framed shots fill every inch of wall space in the bar. Needless to say, our tasty meal of Neapolitan pizza came with a serious side of rubber-necking. The next day, we leave the city behind and start snaking our way towards Menton. As the car roars into sixth gear, I realise that a route can be a destination too. The Grande Corniche, which was begun by Napoleon in 1796, has inspired Hitchcock (see it as a backdrop in To Catch a Thief ), featured in a Bond movie (Pierce Brosnan zooms along it in GoldenEye), and is often called the most romantic road in the
BRILL NICE If colour is your thing, BILLET the genuinely gorgeous Villa Sightseeing in Nice is Ortero is a true feast for a cinch with the French the eyes. All the beautifully Riviera Pass, which offers free decorated rooms are a study and discounted admission to in the use of bold colour museums and galleries, cultural and form to enhance and activities and even transport. complement a space. Rooms For more info visit are also soundproofed, meaning en.nicetourisme. no disturbances from your com neighbours and resulting in restful sleeps in hugely comfortable beds. Doubles from €89 per night, room only. (58 Rue Hérold, +33 493 889 673; villa-otero.com) VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER Welcoming a largely intellectual and artistic set since the 1920s, Hotel Welcome has had its fair share of luminaries through its four-star lobby. Most notably, French artist, designer, and writer Jean Cocteau, author of Les Enfants Terribles, who once described the Welcome as the place where he “spent the best of [his] life”. Apart from its requisition during the Second World War, the hotel has maintained an air of artistic integrity and history. Doubles from €171 per night, room only. (3 Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, +33 493 762 762; welcomehotel.com)
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world. On our way to RoquebruneCap-Martin (see Highlights, page 94), I, the passenger, get an eagle’snest view and jump in my seat, my finger twitching over my camera’s shutter, as those iconic postcard views start to appear – tiny pebbled harbours, steep, plunging cliffs and the golden hues of sandy beaches against the sharp, electric blue of the sea and cloudless sky. We arrive much later than planned, thanks in no small part to my constant need to stop and just drink it all in. The next morning, we start the day right with a dip in the sea at the village of Villefranche-surMer, where rainbow-coloured umbrellas line the sandy beach dotted with sunbathing locals, before roaming around Nice. The pastel buildings here seem to take their cue from the sorbet tones of the traditional Provençal soaps for sale at every corner of the shady, Old Town streets. Both have me in total Instagram heaven. As we stroll through the market, I have to
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Clockwise from far left, Noelle Cornu Faure at Aphrodite, Nice; a sunset cocktail on the rooftop lounge bar of Cannes’ Radisson Blu Hotel; blooms in in the medieval village of Èze; traditional soaps for sale in Old Town Nice; lavender at Nice’s colourful food and flower market; the signature house cocktail at the Chateau de la Chevre d’Or in Èze; Patrick Di Troia’s delicious ripe grapes at Cannes fruit and veg market; vendor Patrick Di Troia; beautiful blooms and crumbling stone in Èze; aubergines at the Nice food and flower market; beach umbrellas at Nice’s Promenade des Anglais; a beautiful cream-coloured building in Èze; Michele Picache, a vendor at the Nice flower market; traditional socca at the fruit and veg market in Cannes; Nicole Sevin in the garden of her hotel, the Ideal Séjour.
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remind myself of my baggage allowance whenever I coo over impractical things, such as dried lavender and rosebuds, spices and flavoured salts. We grab a quick bite of a local favourite, the pissaladière, a kind of open-faced, caramelisedonion tart, before making our way to the Parc du Château, some 90 metres above water. The shady, rocky park is dotted with locals dozing, picnicking and doing t’ai chi and yoga. Most people are here for the view, though: a panorama that takes in the Promenade des Anglais on one side and the pretty Port de Nice on the other. The port intrigues us, so we make our way down, as much to snap the multicoloured wooden fishing boats as to gawk at the giant, gleaming yachts moored beside them. We break for lunch at Le Bistrot du Port de Nice (28 Quai Lunel, +33 493 552 170; lebistrotduportdenice.fr). Food in the Old Town, though delicious, can be a bit of a carb-fest, so chef José Orsini’s delicate, refreshing menu is a welcome break. A starter of zesty crab and mango salad is followed by seared scallops on a bed of squid-ink risotto, which is earthy, yet light enough that it didn’t put us off the idea of hunting out some lavender ice cream at Fenocchio’s afterwards (2 Place Rossetti, +33
ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN
ROAD TRIP | FRENCH RIVIERA
493 807 252; fenocchio.fr). You can really feel Italy’s influence here – it’s only a couple of hours down the road, after all. For our last sunset, we make our way to the impossibly picturesque medieval village of Èze, set into the cliffs 1,400 metres above the Mediterranean. It is achingly pretty, with every twist and turn down the narrow, cobblestone pathways revealing creamy, crumbling stone, pops of fiery-red blooms, prickly succulents and cosy little galleries, boutiques and restaurants. It’s got a sleepy, chilled-out vibe and feels a million miles away from the megawatt charm of its neighbours.
Above left, the famous Corniche roads and their scenic sunsets.
’s Festival of Dance returns EVERYBODY CANNES-CANNES The resort town e showcasing the crème de la crème this November 20-29, its biennial programm anse-cannes.com/en of contemporary and current dance: festivalded
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Next time (and there must, must be a next time), we vow to explore the more obscure ends of the Côte d’Azur. We have come to discover, like many before us, that there are two Rivieras. The big-name stars like Cannes, Nice and Monaco are what lured us there, and they did not disappoint. But, as is often the case, it’s the quietly charming support cast – the villages, the winding roads, that surprise sunset pit-stop – that steals the show. Follow Nathalie at @nathaliemc CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.
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Lisa Hughes seeks out five of the finest places to enjoy fruit of the vine.
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
CINEMATIC
Napa Valley, California Not known as “Wine Country” for nothing, this seemingly endless stretch of idyllic vineyards in northern California boasts over 400 wineries, with everything from lavish harvest dinners to Wine and Wellness packages.
J NANCY MORGAN
MUST DO Trainspotters, vintage fans and wine aficionados alike will love the Napa Valley Wine Train (1275 McKinstry Street, +1 707 253 2111; winetrain.com), a faithfully restored, early-20th-century Pullman railcarturned-restaurant that covers 40 kilometres between Napa and St Helena. For $199pp you can hop aboard and take Napa Valley’s only "after hours" Evening Winery Trip, that goes behind-the-scenes of the Grgich Hills Estate. Or, hover across the vineyards in a colourful hot air balloon. The Come Fly With Us package can be booked at Napa Valley Lodge (below). STAY A Tuscan villa crossed with laidback California cool, Napa Valley Lodge, left, is a lushly landscaped haven on the outskirts of Yountville, with a Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard thrown in for good measure. Rates range from $295-$605. (2230 Madison Street, Yountville, +1 707 944 2468; napavalleylodge.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO SAN FRANCISCO DAILY DURING OCTOBER, AND FIVE TIMES PER WEEK DURING WINTER.
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WINE | BEING THERE
HISTORIC
Trastevere, Rome Ivy-clad buildings and cobblestone streets make medieval Trastevere truly photogenic. With its mix of buzzy wine bars and tempting gelateria, there is no better place for a Roman food and wine crawl. MUST DO Bakeries, cookie factories and handmade ravioli are some of the food highs on Eating Europe’s four-hour Trastevere Twilight Tour (€88pp). There are ten food and wine tastings, including Antica Caciara delicatessen dating from the early 1900s to sipping wine below the busy streets in Spirito di Vino, an atmospheric wine cellar that’s 150 years older than the Colosseum. For less walking and more wine-drinking, the company’s Wine Tasting Dinner (€80pp) takes place in a traditionally rustic trattoria, with a six-course meal paired with regional wines. Book at eatingitalyfoodtours.com.
STAY Renaissance paintings and dramatic cloisters give the Donna Camilla Savelli Hotel, a former convent from 1642, lashings of charm. With sweet camellias in bloom, the rooftop garden was made for vino. Double rooms from €150. (27 Via Garibaldi, +39 065 88861; hotelsavelli.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO ROME UP TO TWICE DAILY.
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www.thequeenoďŹ reland.com QOIpanti @QOI_Panti
WINE | BEING THERE
CITY
Belfast From the romantic wine-cellar vibe of Deanes Deli Vin Café on Bedford Street (michaeldeane.co.uk) to Spanish tapas and Rioja at 2Taps on Waring Street (2taps-winebar. co.uk), Belfast has enough bars to keep you entertained after hours on a wine-inspired city break up North. (visitbelfast.com) MUST DO With Wine Mondays at Hadskis (33 Donegall Street, 028 9032 5444; hadskis.co.uk), you’ll be tempted to turn your weekend in Belfast into a long one. Chef and entrepreneur Niall McKenna is at the helm of the busy kitchen, which whips up a mix of locally sourced grub such as Classic Glenarm Burger, Crispy Bacon and Chips, alongside
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an eclectic European wine list. This winter the restaurant is hosting a series of events for wine enthusiasts, starting with Unusual Grapes, Great Wine on October 5 (£30/€42) to Pinots From Around the World on November 30 (£30/€42). STAY Belfast’s only five-star hotel, The Merchant, combines luxury lodgings with elegant settings worthy of a James Bond flick. Sit back and savour a fine wine at the ultraglamorous Great Room restaurant, where the wine list ranges from Sonoma County chardonnay to Cristal at £295 a pop. We can dream … Rooms from €326. (16 Skipper Street, 028 9023 4888; themerchanthotel.com)
ORGANIC
Chateau Feely, Dordogne A wine estate for centuries – since 1737 to be exact – today, the Irishowned Chateau Feely is firmly in the 21st century. Just over an hour from Bordeaux city, this certified organic, biodynamic vineyard specialises in artisanal, organically grown wines, from rich merlots to delectable dessert wines. MUST DO If you’re serious about wine, you’re in the right place. Striking a balance between enjoyable and educational, activities at the chateau range from tastings (from €10pp) to a scenic Vineyard Walk and Cheese Platter package (€25pp) but for something special, the Play Winemaker for a Day experience (€150pp) gives the inside scoop on how to create wine. Running from 10am to around 4pm, the course covers how the grapes are transformed after the harvest to blending your own bottle of wine, which you can cork and take home as a unique souvenir. STAY Across the courtyard lies the chalet-style Wine Lodge, a selfcatering eco-cottage with misty morning views across the vineyards and Saussignac Valley. Available on B&B basis from €130 per night, for two nights minimum. (Chateau Feely, La Garrigue, +33 553 227 271; chateaufeely.com) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BORDEAUX FOUR TIMES PER WEEK.
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WINE | BEING THERE
SPARKLING
Camel Valley, Cornwall If there is anywhere better in the UK for a vinobased rural rendezvous than Cornwall, we’ve yet to find it. Since 1989, Camel Valley (Nanstallon, Bodmin, +44 120 877 959; camelvalley.com) has been producing red, white and sparkling wines and bagging awards, including three International Wine Challenge trophies, along the way. Taking its name from the nearby Camel River, the vineyard mixes traditional practices with a distinctly New World attitude to wine-making and 24,000 vines are now grown on the south-facing side of the valley. MUST DO Just chilling on the terrace, sipping a glass of Cornwall Brut should be part of any Cornish escape but tours are also available. For the Grand Tour and Tasting (£15pp), a winemaker guides you through the vineyard and winery
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process, answering any burning questions you may have, before finishing up with an all-important tasting session with at least five wines. Tours are lively and informal, so leave your inner wine snob at the door. STAY Overlooking the vineyards are two cosy, self-catering cottages that can be booked for week-long stays, from £320 per week. For a shorter stay, Jamaica Inn – formerly a smugglers’ favourite, and the inspiration behind Daphne du Maurier’s novel of the same name – has double rooms from £105 per night. (Bolventor, Launceston, +44 156 686 250; jamaicainn.co.uk) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEWQUAY THREE TIMES PER WEEK FROM THE END OF APRIL 2016.
October Beer Festival October 23rd to 25th
2012
2013
2014
MASTERCLASS | HANDICRAFTS
Which Craft?
Dublin’s Design House offers myriad handicraft workshops. Zoë Coleman gets to grips with a brooch. isions of Strictly Come Dancing enter my mind as our hostess scatters swatches of gaily coloured silk across the table for us aspiring designers. That’s a lot of glamour and glitz for one workbench. We’re here on a bustling Saturday for an educational afternoon tea class of brooch-making with Bébhinn “Bev” Flood, the creative force behind The Design House on Dublin’s Dawson Street, which offers hands-on classes for all levels of competency, from basic sewing skills and upcycling to jewellery-making and millinery classes. The designers who work in the same building also lead the different classes, with all materials provided in-house. It’s little coincidence that The Design House was established here almost five years ago. Like nearby South William Street, Dawson Street has a rich fashion history as a garment-making hub in the 19th century. Nowadays, it mostly boasts chi-chi cafés and financial offices but here’s this striking four-storey Georgian building, which cuts a dash with a lime-green-and-white
V
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painted façade. Three floors are dedicated to the retail side of the business – clothing, gifts and accessories, most of which are produced by the designers working in the studios upstairs. We, however, are SEAM & on the fourth floor HEARD in Bev’s studio, The Design House runs where every weekly afternoon and evening inch of wall classes catering for groups of up space is covered to five people and individuals. with sketches Afternoon tea sessions start from and patterns. €74.95pp (43 Dawson Street, Ascending the Dublin 2, 01 679 9283; narrow 18ththedesignhouse.ie) century staircase, you can imagine the centuries of industry that Head turners took place here. I’m guessing – The Design that most bygone visitors weren’t House, below, offered a glass of wine on is festooned entry though ... with handmade accessories, Bev instructs us on how to cut above. Below left, flower patterns, her enthusiasm the fruits of Zoë’s infectious and with all the patience brooch-making of a kindly aunt. As we work labours. away, the building hums with the sounds of designers working in the surrounding studios, chatter floating up from the floors below. There is a real shared sense of
camaraderie. All digital distractions are temporarily shelved as we take the task in hand. Half an hour in, a generous selection of sweet and savoury treats arrive from Dolce Sicily, a charming, family-run Italian café that has found a home in the basement. (Bev was most helpful in having a selection of vegan and vegetarian options available for my friend and I). Very soon, the passing of time is measured in how many pastries and beverages we consume. By the end of the three hours I’m cutting and coordinating the different elements of my brooch, like a professional (or so I flatter myself). Bev pulls some fronds from a peacock feather to add to my design as it begins to take shape before my eyes. I end up with a beautiful silk brooch, of turquoise and purple petals – I’m rather pleased with my handiwork, although Bev doesn’t seem at all surprised, possessing a rather special talent for getting the best out of her protégés. The whole afternoon has a charming, personal touch, from the beautiful 1940s glass cake-stand once owned by Bev’s grandmother to her openness and expert advice. We giddily depart The Design House, chuffed with our new adornments – and use them as an excuse to go for a fancy tipple to show them off ...
Dohen y & Nesbi tt 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N
Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm
Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner
A Dublin Landmark…
Private function rooms available
One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading p politicians, oliticians, sports and media personalities personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.
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BEING THERE | AGADIR
HOURS IN
AGADIR
The resort on the south coast of Morocco is a magnet for those seeking surf, asanas and souks. Zoë Coleman zones in on the essentials.
Don’t Miss ... HAGGLING Souk al Had d’Agadir is the country’s second largest market, with more than 3,000 stalls offering everything from fresh vegetables and spices to leather ory designer goods and the obligatory knock-offs. Don’t be afraid to knock off two thirds of their asking price – you can always come back if they don’t budge. Open Tuesday to Sunday 6am to 8.30pm. (Rue 2 Mars) SURFING With its all-year-round warm climate and a flight time of less than four hours from Dublin, Agadir is a popular destination for surf holidays. Dip your toe in with a half-day lesson with trained instructors at Taddanga Surf School, where prices start from €37 for two hours. (Robinson Club Agadir, Chemin des Dunes, +212 528 219 494; surftaddanga.com) PAMPERING Nourishing Argan oil is a vital part of the traditional Moroccan hammam and has been
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Above, the sun melts over Agadir. Left, brush up on your haggling skills for souvenirs at the souk. Below, shisha awaits.
harvested here for thousands of years for its skin-soothing properties. operties. Argan Phyto House is TripAdvisor’s visor’s number one spa, combining authentic thentic treatments and modern-day luxe with the local elixir. (Rue Imam Malek, lek, +212 528 221 272; arganphytohouse.com .com) CAMELS You’ve not visited Morocco unless you’ve ridden a camel. Watch the sun set on six kilometres of sandy beach – or, if dromedaries aren’t your cup of sweet mint tea, try a horse ride. Ranch Amodou Cheval offers both, from two-hour treks right through to overnight camping, via tagine barbecue options. (Route d’Essaouira, +212 670 3411 510; amodoucheval.com)
Soirée at … THE PROMENADE As a Muslim country the consumption of alcohol is restricted in some parts of Morroco, so if you’re seeking a stiff drink, stick to the areas around the promenade (as well as hotels). Zanzibar Bar Lounge is right on the beach, and its en cocktails and live entertainment are kickstartin a night out in good for kickstarting cl one of the nearby clubs. (Hotel Tikida Beach, Chemin des Dunes, +212 661 205 020) RESORT If you like live music and DJ sets with cock your cocktails, look no th The So Night further than Lounge at the five-star Sofitel Roya Bay Resort at Agadir Royal the south end of the beach. It comprises a nightclub as well chill-ou zone, although as a chill-out seekin a beats-free if you’re seeking zone, curl up with some Moroccan tea and shisha at repi at the hotel’s Le the firepit (C Founty P4, Baie Riad. (Cité Pa des Palmiers, +212 528 08 sofitel.com) 820 088;
Sleep at … BOUTIQUE Much of old Agadir was levelled in an earthquake in 1960, so there’s little in the way of heritage accommodation. But, despite being only open since 2011, the elegant, 28-room Riad Villa Blanche boasts traditional Moroccan design paired with contemporary comforts. Has a pool and spa also, above. Doubles from €105. (Secteur 50, Cité Founty, +212 528 211 313; riadvillablanche.com) ZEN With its own private beach, the Paradis Plage Surf & Yoga Resort is the perfect spot at which to catch some rays, waves and asanas. Set amid three hectares, the oasis has a variety of accommodation, including suites, bungalows, villas and apartments, plus an on-site spa. Double rooms from €132; surfing and yoga packages available. (Km 26 Route d’Essaouira, +212 528 200 382; paradisplage.com) GUESTHOUSE A short stroll from the beach, souk and traditional eateries is the Riad Les Chtis D’Agadir. Staff are charming and friendly, rooms are colourful and breakfast on the roof terrace is a lovely way to start the day. Doubles from €30. (27 Rue Houmane El Fetouaki, +212 528 821 996; maisondhotesleschtisagadir. com)
GIRL POWER
Tighanimine Fairtrade Argan Oils are produced by a women’s cooperative, which developed out of literacy classes run by Nadia El Fatmi in 2007. Now its president, she and her team host tours of the facility. For more info contact cooptighanimine@ yahoo.fr. Top left and right, take the plunge in both the spa and the pool at Riad Villa Blanche. Above right, no trip to Morocco is complete without a camel ride, here with Ranch Amodou Cheval. Below, tucking into a tagine is a must.
Eat at … MEDITERRANEAN A popular upscale restaurant looking out onto the marina, the contemporarystyled and exuberantly-monikered Pure Passion serves artful cusine made from fresh local ingredients. Steaks and seafood are a speciality. (Complexe Marina Agadir, +212 528 840 120; purepassion.ma) GO LOCAL Feeling peckish? Veer away from the well-trodden tourist track of Agadir’s sea promenade and head for the bijou Café Restaurant Ibtissam on Talborjt Square. This casual Moroccan diner still attracts a fair amount of holidaymakers – lured by glowing online reviews
– but the setting (local shop, mosque, street vendors) is authentic, the setting relaxed, and the set menu ridiculously good value. (Place Tamri, +212 528 824 653) SEAFOOD Agadir being a coastal city, it’s little wonder that pescatarian things dominate its menus. Small but juicy Restaurant Scampi is one such spot that serves up excellent, unpretentious seafood at fair prices. And the service is fantastic. (11 Boulevard Hassan, Imm Hotel Kamal, +212 528 844 054) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO AGADIR WEEKLY.
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MARTYN HICKS
One of Liverpool’s most spectacular restaurants and bars, ALMA DE CUBA is set inside the converted St Peter’s Church. The interior is a nice mix of Cuban and Latin American influences. The 11pm Samba Carnival with petal shower is a mesmerising display that always leaves revellers in the mood for partying. Dress to impress. (St Peters’ Church, Seel Street, +44 843 504 4691; alma-de-cuba.com)
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
Liverpool Looking for the best breakfast, views or pint on Merseyside? Local resident, Kildare-born physiotherapist Paddy Mulligan shows the way.
Character is what defines the city-centre pub SHENANIGANS where the walls are adorned with curiosities from the Emerald Isle. It also serves a great pint. There’s live traditional music at the weekends too, along with plenty of sports coverage. (77 Tithebarn Street, +44 151 255 1563; shenanigansliverpool.co.uk)
Towering over the Liverpool skyline, the ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL is one of the largest in Europe. A trip up the tower gives superb views across the city. An aesthetically pleasing place of worship, which will leave those scaling its heights with beautiful photographic mementos. (St James Mount; liverpoolcathedral.org.uk)
Liverpool’s go-to tapas house, the quirky NEON JAMON ticks all the boxes – beautiful food, friendly staff and a naturally relaxed atmosphere. Grab a seat by the window and watch the world go by. (12 Smithdown Place; neonjamon.com)
Awarded the accolade of “Britain’s Best Breakfast” for the last two years, THE TAVERN COMPANY needs no further introduction. The atmosphere, service and food are top class. Get there early, though, as queues can be long. This will set you up perfectly for a day of exploring. (621-625 Smithdown Road; tavernco.co.uk)
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Located in the Commercial District on Dale Street, MOOSE COFFEE has a great reputation amongst hungry locals. With its American diner theme, the breakfast/brunch menu is hearty and filling. A stone’s throw from the town hall, this is a perfect pit stop. (8 Dale St, +44 151 227 4880; moosecoffee.com)
The real-life escape game BREAKOUT LIVERPOOL gives you 60 minutes to escape from a locked room by solving puzzles. To “breakout” is a badge of honour worn by few, and the game is perfect for those who love a mental challenge. The hour passes quickly but the stories and discussions afterwards can last weeks. (7-11 Sir Thomas Street, +44 151 227 1765; breakoutliverpool.com)
A beautifully restored Victorian villa overlooking the boating lake in Sefton Park, SEFTON PARK HOTEL is charming. Take in the park’s open expanses; meander along the lake shore and round off your visit with some wonderful food from O’Connor’s restaurant. Or perhaps a tipple on the deck overlooking the lake, perfect for those looking to unwind. (37 Aigburth Drive, +44 151 727 7380; seftonparkhotel.co.uk)
The WILLIAMSON TUNNELS form an underground world beneath the city. Take a guided tour that will open your eyes to Liverpool’s past. Ideal for those who enjoy a bit of history that is perhaps less well known. (Williamson Tunnels Heritage Centre, The Old Stable Yard, Smithdown Lane, +44 151 709 6868; williamsontunnels.co.uk)
More about Paddy
A native of Kildare, Paddyy moved to Liverpool in search of career opportunities as a physiotherapist in 2007. Working within the NHS and then professional rugby led him to set up his own thriving clinics, one of which is based in the city centre (pallmallphysio.co.uk). llphysio uk). He ha has also achieved great success with the local GAA team John Mitchels, who have made two appearances in All-Ireland junior club finals in recent years.
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es to shopping and the w their stuff when it com kno lly x rea s ian udl erp Liv ERPOOL ONE comple shops making up the LIV Lane, er’s Pet cluster of streets and er cov Dis r. t people from all ove in the city centre attrac , with its two floors of , or South John Street nds bra er ign home to des (liverpool-one.com) high street favourites.
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO LIVERPOOL DAILY FROM OCTOBER 26.
CHRIS ILES
Re-opened after a refurbishment in 2013, LIVERPOOL CENTRAL LIBRARY is a mix of old and new. The modern atrium draws in the Merseyside light while the Picton reading room is classical and adorned with beautiful architecture. It’s a gorgeous venue for whiling away an hour and an escape from the hubbub of the streets outside. (William Brown Street; liverpool.gov.uk/libraries)
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BEING THERE | MANCHESTER
SPOTLIGHT MANCHESTER
Make Time for … ALAN WILLIAMS
Compiled by Lucy White
TOP TABLES More new restaurants have opened in Manchester over the last decade than anywhere else in the UK, many of which are London implants, such as Thomasina Miers’ Mexican chain Wahaca and the Vietnamese staple Pho, all opening this autumn at the Corn Exchange ude (cornexchangemanchester.co.uk). Indie stalwarts include Yuzu (yuzumanchester.co.uk), right, a fantastic little Japanese restaurant in Chinatown that warns on its website: “We do not do sushi.” What they do do though – authentic sashimi, salads, grease-free tempura, udon and teriyaki dishes – is done to a tee. The lunch menu (main, miso soup and rice) costs less than £9. Wake up and smell the North Projekt coffee at TAKK (takkmcr.com), a Nordic-inspired café in the Northern Quarter, whose house-blend is roasted by Bristol’s Clifton Coffee and its single origins supplied by Berlin’s The Barn.
MUSIC ’Tis the season for The Warehouse Project, which returns to the proverbial bowels of Piccadilly Train Station (it was formerly an air-raid shelter). This year’s three-month club series includes performances from New Order, Jamie XX, Horse Meat Disco and our very own Annie Mac Presents (see My Travel Notebook on page 26). thewarehouseproject.com
3 Super Stays …
PLUSH A former bank designed by Edwin Lutyens in 1928, the quirky Hotel Gotham on King Street opened in April. From chevron carpets, to peacock feather upholstery, to bellboys wearing hats made in downtown NYC, the property’s Art Deco origins are in decadent contrast to Manchester’s industrial, Victorian past. Swell rooftop bar too. Rooms from £145. hotelgotham.co.uk
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CULTURE Winning the UK’s prestigious Mu Museum of the Year Award this July – the bi biggest museum prize (£100,000) in the wo world – Whitworth Art Gallery reopened in February 2015 following a £15 million re refurbishment. Cue light-flooded galleries and café, a sculpture park and, of course, wo world class art. whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
SMART Nearby is another former bank, and the third property from Manchester’s Eclectic Hotels Group. Opening this autumn, King Street Townhouse is in a handsome, listed building dating back to the 1870s but, despite its vintage, boasts Manchester’s first rooftop pool (the less said about the “Rainy City” nickname the better, though). Room rates TBC. kingstreettownhouse.com
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
PUB Needing to sleep off a few pints? Just head upstairs at the Abel Heywood. This Victorianstyle boozer is also a 15-room crash-pad in the buzzy Northern Quarter, where bars, vintage shops, vinyl stores, cafés and restaurants are all on the doorstep. Brunch is served seven days a week and cocktails are around £7. Nightcap(s) ahoy. Rooms from £54.99. abelheywood.co.uk
GRAZING Indulge in a side dish of history and pop culture with Manchester Food Walks. Different areas are e xplored, including the Northern and Southern Quarters respectively, plus Castlefield. Tasting tours take in six or seven pit-stops (£30pp) while Safari tours visit three restaurants. Cocktail Nights are scheduled for December. manchesterfoodwalks.co.uk
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BUSINESS | AMSTERDAM
ANTHONY WOODS
On Business
Making travel work for you
Dam deals
Amsterdam was built on engineering innovation and has been home ever since to smart people playing with new ideas. Niamh O’Dea finds that today’s flourishing startup scene is testament to the city’s spirit of experimentation.
BUSINESS | AMSTERDAM
f you haven’t overheard an elevator pitch at midnight in a cocktail bar, you haven’t been to Amsterdam lately. Already firmly cemented as one of the most culturally wealthy cities in Europe, the Dutch capital’s flourishing startup scene is adding a new energy that can be felt far beyond the obligatory foosball tables in canteens. Last year saw more than €500 million of funding announced publicly by 75 Dutch startups. An impressive figure, but one that is set to be overshadowed; the first quarter of this year saw a 60 per cent increase in deal activity. Indeed, Amsterdam was quite literally built on innovation. The canals that stitch together the stomping grounds of so many modern entrepreneurs are a
I
Previous page and top, quintessential canals are in sharp contrast to the surging office towers above. Right, Rockstart’s Oscar Kneppers in full flow.
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testament to the engineering, planning and architecture that existed in Amsterdam in the 17th century. The robots that are 3D printing a bridge in the NDSM wharf this autumn will offer a glimpse into the future. “It is a city that has been made and remade by smart people playing with new ideas,” says Oscar Kneppers, founder and CEO of one of the country’s most celebrated startup incubators, Rockstart. “From the early settlers who built our dykes to the entrepreneurs of today who are transforming the economy, innovation and experimentation are ingrained in Amsterdam’s culture. You could say it’s in our DNA.” No matter how long you stay in the city, the entrepreneurial spirit and deep respect for past masters can be witnessed throughout Amsterdam and beyond.
Eat at … Ea STREET A visit to the centuryplus-old Albert Cuyp Market is a bootstrapped foodie’s dream. When the weather demands some comfort food, and it probably will, opt for kibbeling, the Dutch version of battered cod. Or beat your sweettooth into submission with poffertjes, sugar-dusted mini pancakes that ooze with buttery satisfaction. (Albert Cuypstraat; albertcuypmarkt.nl) INDONESIAN If you’re looking for generous portions, exotic flavours and an atmosphere which rivals that of a Jakartan street-party, you’ll find it at Café Kadijk. Since opening in 2005, Amsterdammers have tried to keep this Indonesian restaurant a secret. (Kadijksplein 5, +31 61 774 4411; cafekadijk.nl)
CINE SNACKS STARRY NIGHT The The fifth annual Food Film weather can put a Festival is being hosted in five dampener on things Dutch cities throughout the year. if canal-side dining is Catch the final event in Amsterdam what you’re craving, but on November 22, when chefs, Restaurant Breitner’s foodies and filmmakers will stunning views over the explore the topic of meat. Amstel, along with its foodfilmfestival.nl creative menu, is one of the best places to watch a rainstorm pass by. (Amstel 212, +31 20 627 7879; restaurant-breitner.nl) Here, the Michelinstarred Bridges Restaurant. Top right, the dishes at the Breitner ooze style and substance.
ordering (surprisingly?) FISH FAVES The fact that you’ll join a queue of natives before the city speaks for itself. delicious pickled herring from the many food-trucks across
MICHELIN Inspired by Ron Blaauw, a Dutch celebri-chef who has been on a Michelin-starwinning streak since 2006, Bridges Restaurant is committed to his eat-local ideals. Expect “fresh fish from Holland, prepared with a French twist” and enough turf to keep the ichthyophobes beefed up. (Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, +31 20 555 3560; bridgesrestaurant.nl)
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BUSINESS | AMSTERDAM
Stay at … LUXURY Make the Andaz hotel your home and spend your downtime basking in a modern celebration of the Dutch golden age. The design is artful homage to the opulence of a time when Amsterdam was the wealthiest city in the world, blended imaginatively with the city’s unique humour and culture. The stunning lobby skylight is unmissable; the giant fish art in the bedrooms is not to be missed. (Prinsengracht 587, +31 20 523 1234; andaz.hyatt.com)
ACTIVE As the name suggests, The Bicycle Hotel in the hip De Pijp area is focused on helping you discover Amsterdam by bike. The budget-friendly hotel is a lesson in eco-consciousness with low-impact details throughout (think solarpanelled roof, recycling and energysaving bulbs). Be sure to fuel up on the free brekkie first. (Van Ostadestraat 123, +31 20 679 3452; bicyclehotel.com) BUSINESS Zoku, the Japanese word for family or tribe, is a concept hotel that aims to change how we travel for business. Each loft-like room contains a modern kitchen, dining area, an “upstairs” bedroom and super fast Wi-Fi, with the focus on living rather than sleeping. “Sidekicks” tapped into the local scene replace traditional hotel staff; flexible work spaces are offered instead of traditional meeting rooms and guests can stay for a night or three months. Opening this autumn. (Weesperstraat 105, +31 20 811 2811; livezoku.com)
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Here and above left, wowsome interiors and exteriors at the five-star Andaz Amsterdam. Right, interesting ergonomics at Zoku.
QUIRKY If you like your accommodation with a side of quirk, Hotel de Windketel will undoubtedly delight. The threestorey octagonal tower can house a maximum of two people, sits in a traffic-less neighbourhood near the trendy Jordaan area and, as you would expect from a former building declared a monument some years ago, is quite the landmark. A visit to the nearby (and equally offbeat) Western Gas Works culture park is a must. (Watertorenplein 2-L; windketel.nl)
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HOP TO TROT
The PINT Bokbierfestival, the largest beer festival in the Netherlands, has been making merry since 1978. This year it’s being held on October 23-25 in the historic Beurs van Berlage. (Damrak 243; CREATIVE Droog, playful rivalry pint.nl). a design collective that brews in the Hôtel Droog, between The is a spacious venue for Netherlands and its creatives and inspirationbeer-producing neighbours seekers to unwind and one of Oscar can be seen in the Arendsnest’s Kneppers’ favourite spots in the prideful exclusion of Belgian – and other foreign – beers. (Herengracht city. “I’m always surprised by what 90, +31 20 421 2057; arendsnest.nl) I find there. It’s genuine Amsterdam stuff with an international touch.” INTIMATE It’s hard to explain what The hotel, which has just a single is so charming about the Pilsener bedroom, is most noted for its Club, or even what it is exactly. creative studio where in-house There’s no bar, more a room where designers can be seen redesigning you order your drinks, before quickly the world. Check the calendar before returning to the lounge; this set up, arrival; meditating in the Zen garden along with the decor, hasn’t changed with a monk or getting a massage since the 1920s. Nor should it. from a master is par for the course in (Begijnensteeg 4, +31 20 623 1777) this city-centre sanctum. (Staalstraat 7B, +31 20 217 0100; droog.com) HIP Noted among Amsterdam’s insiders for its almost spooky ability TRADITIONAL Named for the to unearth trends before they’ve even wooden interiors and smoke-stained happened, Roest’s warehouse setting walls, the long list of beers and and beach-front location have helped approval from locals help make cement it as Amsterdam’s hottest traditional Brown Bars what they are: bar. Martijn van der Veen, founder a true taste of Dutch living served of Zazzy.co, describes it as attracting by the (milli)litre. Arendsnest is a “hipsters before the word hipster popular post-boardroom watering existed”. (Jacob Bontiusplaats 1, +31 hole for everyone from would-be 20 308 0283; amsterdamroest.nl) founders to venture capitalists. The
Play at ...
Top, Hôtel Droog is like no other, it being more a creative space than accommodation. Above, “Brown Bar” Arendsnest. Left, cocktail hour at The Rotisserie.
ie, a delicious SECRET SIPS The Rotisser way outlet”, has an “Brooklynese bar and take-a leads to an unforgettable intriguing back door that restaurant. cocktail bar and sit-down 126 |
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THIJS WOLZAK
BUSINESS | AMSTERDAM
MAIN BUILDING CONTRACTOR Commercial
BioPharma
Data Centres
DESIGN BUILD Industrial
Residential
JOINT VENTURE PARTNER Retail
Educational
Conservation
Building Excellence Since 1810
Mulranny Hotel, Mayo
Royal Dublin Society, Dublin
lnishtrahull Lighthouse, Donegal
1895
1928
1958
www.collen.com
BUSINESS | AMSTERDAM Battersea Arts Centre, opened in 1893. Below, the bandstand at Clapham Common.
Downtime at … CULTURE Located in an old canal house, photography museum FOAM holds revolving exhibitions, many of which are startlingly original. And the canal-facing café is perfect for people-watching, browsing enormous books or, you know, taking selfies. (Keizersgracht 609, +31 20 551 6500; foam.org) URBAN FORAGE Hungry Birds, left, is a young and vibrant tour group focused on filling your belly with treats and your head with memories during their 3-4 hour Street Food Tour. (From €59 per adult, MondaySaturday; hungrybirds.nl) TREND-SPOTTING Having started life as a design-centric pop-up shop in 2012, Hutspot has quickly become an influential tastemaker. Cue trendy and downright weird homewares
and fashion. Many of the offerings are created by up-and-coming Dutch designers, making it an ideal spot for snagging souvenirs and gifts with a real story. (Rozengracht 204-210 and Van Woustraat 4; hutspotamsterdam.com)
OUTDOORS Along with its rich history, the man-made Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) celebrates its 80th birthday this year, and is easily accessible by bus or bike. Stop by the visitors centre first, to find out which events to take in – young or old, you won’t regret seeing this all-too-often-overlooked side of Amsterdam. (Bosbaanweg 5, +31 20 545 6100; amsterdamsebos.nl) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO AMSTERDAM FIVE TIMES DAILY, AND FROM CORK TWICE DAILY.
Making friends with residents is the fastest way of discovering a city and an Amsterdam-based startup is about to make it the easiest way too. Party with a Local is a free app that turns this lonely planet into a very friendly one by connecting local social butterflies with travellers and expats looking for an insider’s take on the nightlife. Users have access to respective cities’ insider guides and can view and post listings to find like-minded party buddies with a feel for the terrain. Particularly apt for Amsterdam, where private rooftop happenings and boat-based festivities are common sights most evenings, PWAL will see to it that you have a night to remember, devoid of tourist traps and newbie pitfalls. Free, for Android and iOS. (partywithalocal.com)
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ILLUSTRATION BY KIRSTEN SHIEL
Smart Money …
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BUSINESS | TRAVEL
Smart Traveller DUBLIN
3
BEST BUSINESS LUNCHES IN DUBLIN
Niamh Bushnell is Dublin's first commissioner for startups (startupdublin.com), which promotes Dublin as a global tech hub. She tells Zoë Coleman why the Irish capital is so great for doing business. Dublin is great for business because … Having spent the last 16 years of my career in New York, I didn’t expect Dublin could reach the heady high standards of NYC – but it does. Dublin has a surprising depth of smart and connected people, innovative companies, a fast-paced rhythm (my American husband cannot get over how quickly people walk in Dublin) and an attitude that’s open and very hard working. I'm having a lot of fun doing business in this great global city. Best business lunch … Dublin has become a great town for foodies of all persuasions. Two of my favourites are The Vintage Kitchen (7 Poolbeg Street, 01 679 8705; thevintagekitchen. ie) and Hatch & Sons (15 St Stephen's Green, 01 661 0075; hatchandsons.co). I try to bring visitors to one or both of these. Also the Marker Hotel (Grand Canal Square, Docklands, 01 687 5100; themarkerhoteldublin. com) is situated in one of Dublin’s epicentres for tech and innovation, so it's also a great place for a working lunch. I always bump into people I know. Best after-work drinks … The Dean Hotel (33 Harcourt Street, 01 607 8110; deanhoteldublin. ie) – head up to Sophie’s bar and restaurant and take in the views
of the Dublin mountains. Best business hotels … Tw Two of my favourites are the Herbert Park Hotel be beside the beautiful park (Ballsbridge, (Bal 01 667 2200; Top, Dublin’s Samuel herbertparkhotel.ie) and The Beckett Bridge, Westbury (The Westbury Mall, one of Niamh off Grafton Street, 01 679 1122; Bushnell’s doylecollection.com), which is favourite places for right in the centre of it all. on-the-hoof Downtime diversions- … meetings. I love spending time by the sea – Sandymount Strand, Dún Laoghaire, Howth and Killiney. The views are spectacular and the DART gets you right back into Dublin city in half an hour. Best spot for meetings … I actually like to walk and talk so when I have a willing companion we’ll start near my office at the foot of the Sean O’Casey Bridge, “I can’t travel without … Skype – walk across, down to I can then talk, text or video conference the Samuel Beckett inexpensively. I can't live without it, Bridge and back. It’s a especially when I'm travelling. I also can’t refreshing way to hold live without my weights – I often don’t a discussion – you just get time to exercise but if I have some have to remember with me I can use them wherever.” to write up notes afterwards!
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THE CLIFF TOWNHOUSE Oh-so-elegant, this Art Deco-inspired boutique hotel restaurant is understated yet grand. It prides itself on seafood – it has a glamorous Oyster and Champagne Bar at the back – but caters for all tastes. Two-course lunch €23, three courses €28. (22 St Stephen's Green, 01 638 3939; theclifftownhouse.com)
2
ETTO This attractive, casual dining hotspot is ideal for a relaxed working lunch. That’s not to say it’s not serious about its food, however; ingredients are seasonal and from local suppliers where possible. Two-course lunch €20, three courses €25, sandwich and soup combo €10. (18 Merrion Row, 01 678 8872; etto.ie)
3
THE HOT STOVE In the basement of a handsome Georgian townhouse on Parnell Square, this northside charmer is all exposed brickwork, original fireplace, and good, honest food. Artwork by local creatives to boot. Twocourse lunch €20, three courses €25. (38 Parnell Square West, 01 874 7778; thehotstove.ie)
A VIEW FROM WILLIAM FRY
On Complexity Depth and substance. Mastery of detail. Knowledge of precedent. Understanding the law and its relevance to your business. We expect a lot of our people for a very simple reason. When it really matters, you will be depending on them. Our people are practical, assertive, hard working and quick to take the initiative. They thrive on complexity. All so that you can face whatever it happens to be with confidence.
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S I L I C O N
V A L L E Y
Business
1
APP Avoid getting lost in a new city on your pre-meeting run with GPS app WalkJogRun, which maps out the best walking and jogging routes in your area. You can even choose your run by landmarks, so you can pack in some sightseeing on the go. €4.99 at iTunes, walkjogrunapp.net.
2
3 GADGET Streamlining your carry-on can mean working off mobile devices but sometimes you just can’t beat a laptop. The slim ASUS Zenbook UX305 13.3” Laptop weighs a mere 1.2kg yet is sturdy enough for life on the road. €919.99 at pcworld.ie.
Business
Travel Hot List
BOOK From rollingin-it Roman leaders to today’s tech billionaires, Sam Wilkin’s Wealth Secrets of the 1 % (Sceptre, €23.70 at eason.com) offers insights into the moneymaking secrets of the upper crust. A fascinating read for the aspiring business millionaires out there.
Lisa Hughes shares this season’s round-up of ace accessories, events and places to stay.
4
EVENT Celebrating its 10th year in London, the Future of Web Apps Conference this October 5-7 covers the latest in APIs, toolkits, accessibility, JavaScript technologies, and more, with plenty of creative networking for web developers on the side. (Etc Venues, St Paul’s; futureofwebapps.com)
5
APP Wonder shows you the hottest places to eat, drink and sightsee in a new city, with a simple swipe. Currently available for London and New York, there are more cities including Dublin and San Francisco in the pipeline. Think Tinder meets Time Out. thewonderapp.co
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7
AUDIO Adding a splash of style to the Bluetooth speaker, the Braven Lux comes with a USB port so it doubles as a power bank, offering an impressive 12 hours of playtime. €99.99 at braven.eu.
6
GADGET Large-screen design, 4GB RAM, extra protection of your data with KNOX Active Protection and powerful processing for easy multi-tasking are just some of the features of the Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge+. Choose from 32GB or 64GB storage and colours including Gold Platinum and Black Sapphire. From €829 at phonesonline.ie.
8
STAY Located in the Flatiron District, the New York EDITION offers 273 guest rooms and suites, all-day dining, free Wi-Fi and a panorama across Manhattan that’s a real jaw-dropper. (5 Madison Avenue, +1 212 413 4200; editionhotels.com)
XE UNLEASHED. NEW JAGUAR XE. THE SPORTS SALOON REDEFINED. New Jaguar XE is here. Our most advanced, efficient and refined sports saloon ever. Born from the DNA of the F-TYPE, across the range it delivers breathtaking performance and efficiency, with CO2 emissions of just 99g/km. JAGUAR.IE
FROM €399* A MONTH
PLUS JAGUAR CARE PACKAGE OF •
3 YEARS FREE SERVICE PLAN
•
3 YEARS UNLIMITED MILEAGE WARRANTY
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3 YEARS BREAKDOWN ASSISTANCE
THE ART OF PERFORMANCE Terms & Conditions: Finance Example: Model: XE 2.0 D SE Manual; On the Road Price†:€37,636.10; Customer Deposit/Part Exchange: €11,000; Finance Amount: €26,636.10; 36 Monthly Payments of €399; Term: 37 Months; GMFV †† (Optional Final Payment): €16,000; Total Cost of Credit: €3,791.39 which includes a documentation fee of €63.49; APR: 5.9% as at 1st July 2015. †Includes delivery & related charges. Model is shown for illustrative purposes only. ††The Guaranteed Minimum Future Value (GMFV) is payable if you renew or retain the vehicle at the end of the agreement. Further charges may be applied by your Jaguar Dealer subject to kilometre limits/condition of the vehicle. *Lending criteria and conditions apply. Offer available on all new Jaguar XE models registered from 1st July 2015 until 31st October 2015 at participating dealers. APR 5.9% is inclusive of a documentation fee of €63.49. This is a Hire Purchase agreement provided by Bank of Ireland t/a Bank of Ireland Finance. To qualify for this finance offer a minimum deposit of 10% of the ‘On the Road Price’ and a maximum term of 37 months applies. Rate quoted is correct as at 1st July 2015 and is subject to change. Official fuel economy figures for the XE Range in l/100km: urban 4.4 – 10.2, extra urban 3.4 – 6.0, combined 3.8 – 7.5. CO2 emissions 99 – 179g/km.
Business
HOTEL REVIEW
Join the Club Eoin Higgins dips his toe in the health-giving waters of a glam Parisian legend, the newly opened Les Bains hotel. Once a legendary nightclub, counting the likes of Grace Jones and David Bowie amongst its regulars, former bathhouse Les Bains Paris was recently reincarnated as a very slick hotel. While still imbued with edgy glamour, it now comprises, in addition to its revitalised nightclub, 39 bedrooms in which to dwell or drape oneself before heading out on the tiles. But it’s not all avant-garde nightclubbing here ... Les Bain’s lacquer-red dining room has also been gaining renewed fame, as was recently witnessed when it hosted Dior and Louis Vuitton Fashion Week after-parties, where food from star chef Michael Riss wowed the bold and beautiful guests. Back in the bedrooms, where distressed, charcoal-grey carpets, white marble
and bespoke furnishings adorn rooms and suites that beg to be lounged in, the glamour continues. Hotelier JeanPierre Marois has, with apparent great passion, reinvigorated a Parisian legend – vive la difference! Doubles from €392. (7 Rue du Bourg l’Abbé, +33 142 770 707; lesbains-paris.com)
3 Restaurants To Try Close By... Smart Travel
MG Road A lively take on the classic Indian repertoire, dishing out bold, brash flavours without relying on old executions. A concise menu shows confidence rather than a lack of versatility, changing monthly. The room can be noisy, but worth enduring for a memorable Rogan Josh. (205 Rue Saint-Martin, +33 142 760 432; mgroadrestaurant.com)
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Derrière This different take on providing a “home away from home” is worth trying for the novelty factor alone. Located in a large apartment, diners can opt to dine in the lounge, dining room, bedroom, or boudoir. The menu, and furnishings, are unusual to put it mildly. Bottoms up! (69 Rue des Gravilliers, +33 144 619 195; derriere-resto.com)
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Pirouette Locals pack in to this bright, handsome room, day and night – not surprising considering the online acclaim thrown its way: “affordable elegance”, “incredible wines”, “accommodating staff”, “it’s tha bomb” ... we tend to agree. A particularly good value lunch, too. (5 Rue Mondétour, +33 140 264 781; oenolis.com/pirouette)
Les Bains is located right in the heart of Paris and within a five-minute walk to six different Métro lines, making it a cinch to get around. If you wish to take in a superb view of Paris but haven’t the time, or the inclination, to wait in line at the Eiffel Tower (and would like the advantage of having the tower in your vista too) the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette offers an unparalleled view of the city from up on high. You can always add in a spot of high-end shopping too, should the notion take you … galerieslafayette.com
Irish Countr y Cottages at Fortwilliam Lismore Co Waterford on the Blackwater River for wonderful Autumn / Winter Breaks Comfortable newly refurbished Self Catering Cottages with Free Wifi, in Beautiful surroundings. Salmon and Trout fishing on 3.5 miles double bank in season. Rod and Wader Hire, Ghillies and Instructors available Stabling available. Private and peaceful Farm and Parkland surroundings on 400 acre Irish Estate Fortwilliam Rose Collection & Gardens and Tennis Court Convenient for mountains, coast and heritage town of Lismore. Character Pubs and Restaurants Historic Houses and Gardens, Racing, Golf courses, Music & Theatre nearby. Dogs welcome.
Contact Philippa (00 353) 86 467 0857
fortwilliamoffice@gmail.com
www.fortwilliamfishing.ie
Cork Airport 1 hrs drive • Rosslare 2 hrs drive • Dublin 2.5 hrs drive
Business
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT COLETTE TWOMEY, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF CLONAKILTY BLACKPUDDING ... has
transformed a local, secret recipe into an internationally recognised brand. The company was co-founded in the 1980s with her late husband Edward Twomey (who has a street named after him in the West Cork village). Today, her business employs nearly 50 locals, the pud retailing in shops as farflung as Canberra and Dubai. Colette was Ireland’s first directly elected mayor and she regularly gives talks on entrepreneurship. Here, she offers advice to up-and-comers.
1
Know your market. Find out what your customers want and give it to them – you have to have a really good understanding of the food business. Then be prepared for a lot of hard work. Embrace change, and never lose your passion.
2
Never stop learning. There is something new to be learned every day and it’s what you do with this knowledge that’s important. I also believe that when a person is energised by the work they do, then it is easy to find a work/life balance.
3
Turn challenges into opportunities. Consumers’ needs and tastes are always changing. For instance, Clonakilty Blackpudding has long moved “beyond breakfast” – at the last London Burger Bash, the winning prize went to ‘The Bleecker Black’, an entry by Bleecker Street Burger [Old Spitalfields, London] using Clonakilty Blackpudding. So while the heritage and taste of our product remains the same, its use continues to evolve.
4
Listen and learn. Self-doubt is normal but I am never afraid to seek advice and help from others.
5
Practise empathy. An underrated characteristic in the workplace is understanding. Putting yourself in another’s shoes is a key attribute to great leadership.
6
Think global. Here in Ireland we naturally understand our customers. But when working abroad, we have to work hard to understand the local market. It’s always a pleasure to do international business anywhere, from the UK to Australia.
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onealbertquay, Cork City • Unique riverside city centre location • 170,000 square feet of Grade A office space with floor plates of up to 31,000 sq ft • Commenced construction September 2014, due for completion February 2016 • Over 80% pre let to blue chip companies • Designed and built to gold LEED standard • Limited remaining space
www.onealbertquay.com
JCD, 1104 City Gate, Mahon, Cork T: +353 21 461 4726 E: info@jcdgroup.ie COMMERCIAL PROPERTY DEVELOPERS
W: www.jcdgroup.ie
Smart backs our boys in green
#greenspirit
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
ax: M d Ma Road FurEyPAGE 146 SE
Flying with Aer Lingus
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
140 Welcome aboard 141 Your comfort and safety 144 Aer Lingus News 156 Flight Connections 160 Our Route Networks 164 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 146 Movies to North America 147 Movies from North America 148 Our Classic Movie Selection 151 Television On Demand 154 Radio On Demand 155 Music On Demand
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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.
h words Useful Iris ses and phra
Why not try speaking a few words ge of the native langua while you are visiting Ireland!
me Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó is... m My name o d m in a ...is you? tú? How are Conas atá ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go eers Sláinte! Ch u gat Thank yo a h it a m h Go ra ib me scéal Excuse h it le o m h Gab
Cara Friend
In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.
Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.
Passengers with wheelchair requirements
A SS IS TA N CE
If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your ur booking reference number.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Knock Shannon Kerry
Cork
Edinburgh Newcastle
Belfast Isle of Man Dublin
Liverpool Birmingham
Amsterdam
What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Cardiff Newquay
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
Exeter
London (Gatwick)
Southampton
Jersey
Brussels
Paris Rennes Nantes
View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.
See page 160 for full route maps
ETA IL S CO N TA CT D
.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 886 8333 1 53 Europe +3 2 4222 USA (516) 62
Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device. You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used. Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING?
Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?
Is your seatback fully upright?
Is your armrest down?
Is your tabletop stowed?
Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?
ON Airplane
Mode
To use your mobile phone and all other portable e lectronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
Your comfort and safety
KEEP MOVING
A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.
Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.
Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.
We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.
On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.
EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.
Airbus 330-
200
For your Safety
Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad
Airbus 319
Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr
Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do
Please do
not remov
e from Aircra
not remov
e from Aircra
ft
ft
Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane
ON Airplane
Mode
Mode
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.
EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.
TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.
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INFLIGHT
Aer Lingus News AER LINGUS GREEN SPIRIT
Irish rugby fans make the smart choice and fly with Aer Lingus as they travel to support the Ireland team. Aer Lingus is the “Official Airline of the Irish Rugby Team”. Aer Lingus has increased services to accommodate fans travelling to the UK for the tournament. Supporters can find out more at aerlingus.com
Aer Lingus is very proud to support the Irish Rugby Team as the official airline. The special liveried Aer Lingus Airbus A320 aircraft, which depicts Aer Lingus Ambassadors Conor Murray, Rob Kearney, Robbie Henshaw and Tommy Bowe, has been painted to celebrate Aer Lingus as the official airline of the Irish Rugby Team. The aircraft named “Green Spirit” is being used to fly the team and fans to and from Cardiff and London for the tournament. The airline is delighted to stand shoulder to shoulder with Joe Schmidt, Paul O’Connell and the rest of the squad, wishing them the very best of luck during the tournament and will be supporting Irish rugby throughout the competition and Six Nations championships. They’ll no doubt do Ireland proud on the world stage once again. Follow their progress on Twitter @aerlingus #greenspirit.
COLLEGE FOOTBALL GAME TO BE STAGED IN IRELAND IN 2016 For the third time in five years, an American college football game will be staged in Ireland. Aer Lingus College Football Classic between Boston College and Georgia Tech will take place in Dublin’s Aviva Stadium on Saturday, September 3, 2016. Aer Lingus is title sponsor for the game that will see the Boston College Eagles kick off the 2016/17 NCAA Division I College Football Season in an Atlantic Coast Conference game against the formidable Yellow Jackets of Georgia Tech. Tourism Ireland, Fáilte Ireland and Dublin City Council are also supporting the game. While general ticket sales are still some months away, tour packages in the US are already on sale and expected to sell quickly, meanwhile corporate hospitality facilities at Aviva Stadium – on sale too – are also expected to book out briskly. Further details and the option to sign up for exclusive game ticket presale access at collegefootballireland.com/game-tickets. Aer Lingus operates three daily services from Boston connecting to Ireland and beyond, and is delighted to support this great event. Aer Lingus staff look forward to offering guests a warm welcome on-board their flights, and wish the organisers all the best in their preparations for what promises to be a great sporting event.
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GAME ON
Aer Lingus College Football Classic between Boston College and Georgia Tech is all set for Aviva Stadium on Saturday, September 3, 2016 #GameOnIre
Pictured at the event launch were An Taoiseach Enda Kenny TD, United States Ambassador to Ireland, Kevin O’Malley, and Aer Lingus cabin crew members Sarah Nolan and Tracy Johansson.
Cross countries – Galway hurler Aidan Harte and Dublin hurler David O’Callaghan flanked by Aer Lingus’ Eilis Gallagher and Sinead McDevitt, pictured at September’s Croke Park launch of the AIG Fenway Hurling Classic and Irish Festival.
ALL NEW AERLINGUS.COM
DUBLIN TO PLAY GALWAY AT BOSTON'S WORLD FAMOUS FENWAY PARK AIG Insurance in Ireland, the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), the Gaelic Players Association (GPA) and Fenway Sports Management (FSM) have announced details of the AIG Fenway Hurling Classic and Irish Festival to be held in Boston on November 22. There, Dublin’s hurlers will take on Galway. Aer Lingus is delighted to support the event, and look forward to welcoming the Galway and Dublin Hurling teams on-board its Boston services in
November as they make their way to Fenway for what promises to be a memorable event. Aer Lingus is the official airline partner of Dublin GAA and is the official travel partner of the Gaelic Players Association. The airline has for many years supported the Gaelic Players Association in bringing Gaelic games to the global Irish diaspora and beyond. Aer Lingus flies three times daily between Ireland and Boston. For more info on flights and schedules, visit aerlingus.com.
IMPACTING THE FUTURE October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month in Ireland. From October 19-25, Aer Lingus will raise awareness for Breast Cancer Research by running onboard collections. On October 26, 30 Aer Lingus staff members will run the SSE Airtricity Dublin City Marathon, in support of Breast Cancer Research. Breast Cancer Research is a national charity that raises funds in support of world-class research at the National University of Ireland, Galway. By funding this programme, Breast Cancer Research aims to positively impact future outcomes for breast cancer patients. For more information, please visit breastcancerresearch.ie
MORE PERSONALISED FOR SMART TRAVELLERS Aer Lingus has launched a brand new aerlingus.com that will transform the online booking experience making it far more personalised for all Smart Travellers. The new website has been completely redesigned from the ground up. There are lots of smart tools and features to help users search for flights and discover great new destinations, and the booking process has been streamlined into six simple steps so that managing trips is now even easier. Hot on the heels of the new aerlingus.com will be a new mobile app boasting many of the smart features of the new website including the ability to create a personal profile, manage your bookings easily and, not forgetting, simple and speedy check-in.
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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Action Mad Max: Fury Road 120 mins
R
Years after the collapse of civilisation, the tyrannical Immortan Joe enslaves apocalypse survivors inside a desert fortress, the Citadel. When the warrior Imperator Furiosa leads the despot’s five wives in a daring escape, she forges an alliance with Max Rockatansky, a former captive. Fortified in an armored truck they try to outrun the warlord and his henchmen. Stars Charlize Theron, Tom Hardy, Nicholas Hoult. EN FR DE IT ES
Comedy
Action
Slow West
R
Magic Mike XXL
84 mins A bounty hunter helps a teen find his love in the 1800s. Stars Kodi Smit-McPhee, Michael Fassbender, Ben Mendelsohn
105 mins A military contractor falls for a hard-nosed pilot. Stars Bradley Cooper, Rachel McAdams, Emma Stone
103 mins Three teenage friends end up on a dangerous adventure. Stars Shameik Moore, Tony Revolori, Kiersey Clemons
115 mins Magic Mike goes for one last performance in Myrtle Beach. Stars Channing Tatum, Joe Manganiello, Matt Bomer
120 mins A desk bound CIA agent ends up infiltrating an arms dealer. Stars Melissa McCarthy, Rose Byrne, Jude Law
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
R
Aloha
Documentary
PG13
Dope
Drama
R
Spy
R
I Am Big Bird: The Carroll Spinney Story
90 mins Caroll Spinney’s 45 years as Big Bird are portrayed. Stars Caroll Spinney, Jim Henson, Frank Oz EN
Kids G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Boychoir
PG
Love & Mercy
PG13
5 Flights Up
PG13
Inside Out
G
The Boxtrolls
EN PG13
103 mins A rebellious orphan finds his talent in a Boychoir. Stars Dustin Hoffman, Kevin McHale, Josh Lucas
121 mins An insight into Brian Wilson’s mental breakdown. Stars John Cusack, Paul Dano, Elizabeth Banks
92 mins A married couple debate selling their home of 40 years. Stars Diane Keaton, Morgan Freeman, Cynthia Nixon
94 mins A Midwestern girl trys to handle moving to San Francisco. Stars Amy Poehler, Bill Hader, Lewis Black
96 mins A young orphaned boy tries to save his friends. Stars Ben Kingsley, Jared Harris, Nick Frost
EN
EN
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
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PG
FR DE IT ES
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky! Action
Ant Man
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Action Terminator Genisys 126 mins
R
When John Connor, leader of the human resistance against Skynet, sends Kyle Reese back to 1984 to protect his mother, Sarah, from a Terminator assassin, an unexpected turn of events creates an altered timeline. Instead of a scared waitress, Sarah is a skilled fighter and has a Terminator guardian by her side. Stars Jason Clarke, Emilia Clarke, Jai Courtney, Arnold Schwarzenegger. EN FR DE IT ES
Comedy
PG13
San Andreas
PG13
Dear White People
R
117 mins A thief is given powers and a suit to save the world. Stars Paul Rudd, Michael Douglas, Corey Stoll
114 mins A pilot has to save his daughter after a huge earthquake. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Carla Gugino, Alexandra Daddario
108 mins The lives of four black students at an Ivy League college. Stars Tyler James Williams, Tessa Thompson, Kyle Gallner
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN
Documentary
Entourage
R
104 mins A movie star and his four friends move to Hollywood. Stars Adrian Grenier, Kevin Connolly, Jerry Ferrara EN FR DE IT ES
Drama
Infinitely Polar Bear
R
Me, and Earl, and the Dying Girl
PG13
90 mins A bipolar father takes responsibility of his daughters. Stars Mark Ruffalo, Zoe Saldana, Imogene Wolodarsky
105 mins An awkward teen befriends a gravely ill classmate. Stars Thomas Mann, Olivia Cooke
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
Kids G
General
PG
Parental Guidance
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
R
Amy
R
Desert Dancer
PG13
Scout
PG
128 mins Footage and testimonies into the life of the artist, Amy Winehouse. Stars Amy Winehouse, Mitch Winehouse, Mark Ronson
98 mins A man breaks the law to set up a dance company in Iran. Stars Nazanin Boniadi, Freida Pinto, Tom Cullen
109 mins Two troubled teens travel across Texas to find their sister. Stars Nikki Reed, Shelley Hennig, Jane Seymour
EN
EN DE ES
EN
PG Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day
Astérix: The Mansions of The Gods
EN PG
81 mins A family have a bad day. Stars Steve Carrell, Jennifer Garner
85 mins Ceasar trys to bring down the Gaulish village. Stars Roger Carel, Lorànt Deutsch
EN FR DE ES
EN FR DE IT
FR DE IT SP
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Ice Age and The Godfather are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.
Our Classic Movie Selection
Any Given Sunday
R
Black Swan
162 mins Stars Al Pacino, Dennis Quaid
108 mins Stars Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis, Vincent Cassel
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Marvel’s PG13 The Avengers
Sherlock Holmes
143 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Evans
EN FR DE IT ES
The Godfather: Part III
R
R
Fantastic Mr Fox
PG
87 mins Stars George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray EN FR DE IT ES
PG13
Sideways
R
128 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Jude Law
126 mins Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church, Virginia Madsen
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Goonies
PG13
The Notebook
162 mins Al Pacino, Diane Keaton
114 mins Stars Sean Astin, Josh Brolin, Jeff Cohen
123 mins Stars James Garner, Rachel McAdams
EN FR DE IT ES
EN
EN
PG13
Harry Potter PG13 Ice Age and the Prisoner 81 mins of Azkaban Stars Denis
PG
PG13
Songs For Amy
R
Shoot
142 mins Stars Daniel Radcliffe
Leary, John Leguizamo
91 mins Stars Ray Romano, John Leguizamo
EN
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Devil PG13 Wears Prada
The Godfather
The Bourne Supremacy
PG13
The Descendants
R
108 mins Stars Matt Damon, Franka Potente, Joan Allen
115 mins Stars George Clooney, Shailene Woodley
EN FR DE IT ES
EN
The Secret Of Kells
PG
75 mins Stars Evan McGuire, Brendan Gleeson EN
PG
91 mins Stars Jordanne Jones, Dafhyd Flynn, James Kelly
103 mins Stars Sean Maguire, James Cosmo, Patrick Bergin
4 mins Animation by Rory Conway, Sammy Khalid, David Slattery, Kieran Noone
EN
EN
EN
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In America 105 mins Stars Paddy Considine, Samantha Morton
The Wedding Singer
The Daisy Chain
6 mins Narrated by Fiona Shaw
EN
PG
109 mins Stars Anne Hathaway, Meryl Streep EN
PG13
Training Day
R
138 mins Stars Kevin Spacey, Russell Crowe EN
R
The Godfather: Part II
R
EN
True Romance
EN
EN
EN
EN
R
EN FR DE IT ES
120 mins Stars Christian Slater, Patricia Arquette
19 mins Directed by Ciaran Cassidy
LA Confidential
200 mins Stars Al Pacino, Robert De Niro
122 mins Stars Denzel Washington, Ethan Hawke
The Last PG Days Of Peter Bergmann
PG13
175 mins Stars Marlon Brando, Al Pacino
95mins Stars Adam Sandler
Irish Shorts and Features
I Used To Live Here
Ice Age 2: PG The Meltdown
R
42
PG13
128 mins Stars Chadwick Boseman, TR Knight EN FR DE IT ES
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Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business
Business Planet, Real Economy and Science
Bloomberg’s Inside takes you behind the scenes of the world’s biggest restaurant chain, McDonald’s. Also from Bloomberg are The Alibaba Story, looking at Alibaba’s rise from a small Internet upstart in China to one of the most valuable tech companies in the world, and The Great Disrupters, chronicling the most innovative ideas over the last 85 years. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and scientific developments.
Comedy
Girls
Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culturally defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Two episodes are available on board your Aer Lingus flight. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also on board are multiple episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Togetherness.
News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
Documentary
Tracks and Trails
Tune into Super Senses to explore the extraordinary sense of taste that some animals possess. Also available on board are Bullit, which features the sport of jousting, National Geographic’s Megafactories and Cosmos: A Space Odyssey. For more on Ireland and Irish culture, tune into Building Ireland, which sees Orla Murphy, Susan Hegarty and Tim Joyce explore St John’s Cathedral in Limerick, or Tracks and Trails featuring travel journalist Pól O Conghaile.
Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Fargo, The Walking Dead and Mad Men on offer, as well as multiple episodes from the highly acclaimed series, Game of Thrones and a return to fan favourites, The Sopranos and The Wire.
Lifestyle
Coasts of Ireland
Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York. For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Other Voices, Kitchen Hero with Donal Skehan and Coasts of Ireland, in which Ireland’s beautiful coastlines are explored. In this month’s episode of Video Killed the Radio Star we meet with iconic bands and artists, such as Guns n’ Roses, Fleetwood Mac, Metallica, A-Ha, Bon Jovi and Bryan Adams. Also available are Pawn Stars, The Art Of Mixology, Project Runways All Stars and Jamie’s Comfort Food.
Sport
Kids
Sporting Rivalries: England vs. France
Austin & Ally
Kids will surely enjoy Learn To Draw – an educational drawing show, presented by energetic international cartoonist Øistein Kristiansen that demonstrates new techniques and gives inspiration to get kids drawing! Fans of Learn to Draw may also enjoy charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or an episode of Rocka-Bye Island. Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity or Marvel’s Avengers Assemble starring some much-loved comic characters.
Sports fans shouldn’t miss Focus 2, which takes the public behind the slick veneer of some of the most successful athletes on the planet to shine a light on their everyday battles, the shadow of retirement and the driving force that inspires them to keep beating the odds. Also on board are Sporting Rivalries: England vs France (a must-watch for rugby fans!), The Fast Lane for those with an interest in motorsport, and HSBC: Golfing World 2015.
Television On Demand Drama Boxsets
OU R V TOP TICE CHO
Fargo SEASON 1 The announcement of Fargo, the series, caused consternation – why besmirch the legacy of a much-loved Coen brothers classic? And on the surface, it seems like a pointless exercise – same nebbishy lead, same supporting cast of criminal misfits, same frozen location. Another bleakly comic, snow-sunk Midwestern gothic. But the antic morality at the centre of the Coens’ original film is more or less absent. Instead, we’re dealing with something closer to the
reigning spirit of today’s TV drama – violence, nihilism, and a whole lot of anti-heroic behaviour. This might be because the TV format provides fewer opportunities for the Coen’s trademark narrative non-sequiturs, as every seemingly superfluous detail is a possible lead for a future twist. Since this is only Season 1, we don’t really have to worry about that stuff just yet. It’s enough to just sit back and marvel at the well-wrought drama of each episode.
The characters are compellingly drawn, on the thrilling border between verisimilitude and caricature, especially Billy Bob Thornton’s Lorne Malvo. (“There are no saints in the animal kingdom,” he says, “just breakfast and dinner.”) In fact, the most pertinent Coen comparison isn’t with Fargo – it’s with No Country For Old Men, their 2007 Cormac McCarthy adaptation. We wait on tenterhooks for a second season that’s set to rival Breaking Bad.
A crime drama television series with a twist of black comedy
The Walking Dead SEASON 5 That The Walking Dead even managed to stumble to a fifth season is a testament to the show’s quality. Since the very first episode, a sort of zombie apocalypse has been taking place behind the scenes. Cast and crew infighting, budgeting problems and a revolving door of show runners led to several near-cancellations – still the show remains, acclaim piling up faster than the bodies of the dispatched undead. The Walking Dead follows a formula familiar to zombie
movie fans – cross-section of American society forms fragile peripatetic community while fleeing the victims of vicious zombifying plague, etc. In the model of films like 28 Days Later, the zombies (called ‘walkers’) can run, and fast. Unlike most zombie movies, though, there’s little hope to sustain the journey – just peaks and troughs of despair. If you’ve watched from the first season, you’ll notice how quickly the show turned from a subtle morality study into a
grave-dark drama of shifting power dynamics. This shift is at its starkest in Season 5. The first episode presents us with a perfect example; when protagonist Rick meet a priest, Fr Gabriel, he is instantly suspicious when the man insists that he has never killed anyone, human or walker. Cynical pessimism is the only reasonable response to the world of The Walking Dead. The stakes can only rise as we lurch towards the show’s penultimate season.
A gritty drama portrays life in the weeks and months following a zombie apocalypse
Mad Men SEASON 7 In the first half of its final season, Mad Men’s future finally arrives. It’s been the show’s guiding tension since the very first episode – when will the 1960s hit? And not just the rock music, drugs and tie-dyes, the familiar counter cultural wallpaper of representations of that era; the 1960s was also the decade of One-Dimensional Man and ‘The Medium Is The Message,’ the birth pangs of both today’s corporate advertising culture and its discontents. Thus, in Season 7, a computer finally arrives in the office.
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Copywriter Michael Ginsberg is threatened by its static, humming efficiency, and loses his marbles in the time-honoured white collar way. Peggy and Don are in competition for the position of alpha personality, a gender dynamic unimaginable in Season 1, and Dawn Chambers, the show’s first major black character, is promoted to personnel director. Like Leopold Bloom, another ad man, Don Draper is privileged to be perched on a protagonist’s plateau,
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
watching the world below transform itself. But he lacks the crucial self-awareness to follow through, and his appetites degrade, rather than enrich, his experience. By Season 7, even Draper’s mentor Roger Stirling has outstripped him, and the toxic comforts of fat has-beendom are beckoning. It’s up to the second half of Season 7 to show us whether or not he’ll catch up with the world.
A drama series about one of New York‘s most prestigious ad agencies in the 1960s
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Radio On Demand
TO P R A D I O P I C K
Fitzpatrick Hotels
On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
CL ASSIC AL
INDIE
Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.
IRISH
Blue of the Night
Late Date
TXFM‘s Indie Hits
Ceol na nGael
The Blue of the Night is a musical journey spanning a millennium of music. This one hour Inflight version is presented by Carl Corcoran.
One of the best known music shows on RTÉ Radio 1, Late Date attracts a loyal audience of night owls. Each programme brings you the perfect blend of music.
TXFM bring us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as The Maccabees, Hot Chip and many more.
A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.
IRISH
KIDS
Irish Pulse
Classical Kids
Irish Pulse brings you some of the most popular hits in Ireland right now. Listen out for Muse, Kodaline and many more!
Join Ian McGlynn for a fun introduction to the best composers, musicians and instruments made especially for younger listeners. Broadcasting Sunday mornings at 7am on RTÉ lyric fm.
POP
Flying High With Muireann Buckle up, sit back and enjoy your flight with Muireann Ní Chíobháin! We have some fun games, stories and lots of great music to entertain you. ROCK
The Nicky Byrne Show with Jenny Greene A music driven entertainment show. Hosted by Nicky Byrne, and one of Ireland’s most successful DJs, Jenny Greene.
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POETRY
Top Ten Weekday evenings you’ll catch ‘The Big Ride Home’ with Dara Quilty on Dublin’s 98FM from 4pm. Dara’s on board right now to count down the top ten songs of the year!
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Nova Greatest Guitar Songs Marty Miller brings you a collection of some of the greatest guitar songs ever. Enjoy this music special of songs that feature some of the best guitar players in the world.
When Summer’s in the Meadow Mary Brophy travels to the heartland of Irish-America to tell the story behind of one of our most iconic ballads, Danny Boy.
POP
Irish Poetry Corner
Chart Hits
Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: WB Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.
Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!
TA L K R A D I O
Documentary on One
Best of Moncrieff
The first documentary features Patrick ‘Paddy’ O’Connell, the first Irish Manchester United Captain; the second traces the death of an Irish woman on the streets of New York in 2011.
Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.
Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. Why not begin with some of our most recent additions below! A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S
Bob Dylan
Al Green I‘m Still In Love With You Amy Winehouse Back to Black Bob Dylan Desire Billy Joel An Innocent Man Fleetwood Mac Rumours
A LT E R N AT I V E
And So I Watch You From Afar
And So I Watch You From Afar Heirs Father John Misty I Love You, Honeybear Johnny Marr Playland Karen O Crush Songs
E L EC T R O
IRISH
Hot Chip
Hozier
Aphex Twin Syro Basement Jaxx Scars Depeche Mode Sounds of the Universe Hot Chip Why Make Sense (Deluxe Edition) Röyksopp The Inevitable End OPER A
Ensemble Musique Oblique
Andrea Bocelli Aria – The Opera Album Ensemble Musique Oblique Schoenberg Pierrot Lunaire Katherine Jenkins Believe Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier Lang: The Little Match Girl Passion
Damien Rice My Favourite Faded Fantasy Hozier Hozier (Deluxe Version) Jape This Chemical Sea The Coronas The Long Way The Script No Sound Without Silence POP
Jamiexx
Jamiexx In Colour Kelly Clarkson Piece By Piece (Deluxe Version) Sam Smith In the Lonely Hour Selena Gomez For You Taylor Swift 1989 (Deluxe)
CL ASSIC AL
COUNTRY
So Percussion
Dierks Bentley
Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Alice Sara Ott Chopin Waltzes Rafal Blechacz Chopin: Polonaises So Percussion Music for Wood and Strings JA Z Z
Angaleena Presley American Middle Class Brantley Gilbert Just as I am Dierks Bentley Riser Willie Nelson & Merle Haggard Django and Jimmie M E TA L
Charles Mingus
Cradle of Filth
Bill Laurance Flint Charles Mingus The Black Saint and the Sinner Lady GoGo Penguin V2.0 Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude
Cradle of Filth Hammer of the Witches Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Metallica Death Magnetic Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven
RNB
ROCK
Jamie Foxx
Joe Satriani
Action Bronson Mr Wonderful Drake If You’re Reading This it’s Too Late FKA Twigs LP1 Jamie Foxx Hollywood: A Story of a Dozen Roses (Deluxe Version) Nicki Minaj The Pinkprint (Deluxe)
Joe Satriani Shockwave Supernova Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Chasing Yesterday (Deluxe) Robert Plant Lullaby and... The Ceaseless Roar U2 Songs of Innocence
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT
DUBLIN
Where are you flying to?
Are your bags checked through to your final destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Have all your required forms filled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status
Gate Information Screens
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Passport Control and Security Screening
Hand Baggage search
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
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DEPARTURE GATE
DUBLIN
Aviva Stadium Tour “every step has a story” Book your ticket now w w w. a v i v a s t a d i u m . i e
VISIT IRELAND’S FINEST CATHEDRAL
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Saint Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8, Ireland Phone 01 453 9472 Email info@stpatrickscathedral.ie WWW.STPATRICKSCATHEDRAL.IE
A beautiful 12th Century Castle & Botanical Gardens Just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport and 13Km from Dublin City Centre
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OPEN DAILY FOR VISITORS
• • • • • • •
Open daily from 9.30am Guided tours Audio Language Tours Exhibition Areas Walled Botanical Garden Gift shop AVOCA cafe & retail store Book online www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie +353 1 8169538 Adult €12, Child €6, Student €8, Senior €7.50 Garden only tickes also available.
Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections
Which Terminal are you flying from?
Terminal 1 is connected by a pedestrian link from Terminal 2. For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.
Security screening
You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.
Departure Lounge
Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
U .S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS
Award winning Thai food & endless cocktails. Awarded Thai Select Premium Certification
Diep Le Shaker Award winning Royal Thai Cuisine
Specialists in US immigration law since 1997 • • • • •
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers
• • • •
Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science
Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals.
OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND
New York T: 212 965-1148
Kilkenny T: 056-7767994
For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @USVisaExpert MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION
55 Pembroke Lane, Dublin 2 | T: 01 661 1829 | www.diepleshaker.ie
Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar in the heart of Dublin’s old shopping district. Food Served All Day NHA Irish Sports Bar of theYear 2014 Late Bar & DJ’s Thursday to Saturday
Quote ‘Cara Magazine’ and get 2 for 1 Traditional Irish Stew Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar, South King Street, (St. Stephens Green), Dublin 2 +353 1 4784698 info@sinnotts.ie www.sinnotts.ie
Bespoke Service for Men & Woman. Tax Refund and Shipping Arranged Mention this add for a Free Gift. Mackintosh Rainwear Ltd. 46 South William Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: + 353 1 6088608 info@franciscampelli.com www.franciscampelli.com
Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon
Calgary
Regina Winnipeg
Vancouver Victoria Seattle
Fargo
Milwaukee Madison
Sioux Falls
Cedar Rapids
Salt Lake City Omaha
Dayton Indianapolis
St Louis
Oakland
San Francisco
Wichita
Las Vegas
Springfield
Oklahoma City
Little Rock
Burbank
Phoenix
Buffalo
Columbus
Boston Martha’s Vineyard
New York
Washington (National)
Hyannis Nantucket
Harrisburg Philadelphia
Washington (Dulles)
Greensboro Richmond
Raleigh–Durham Knoxville
Charlotte Greenville
Memphis Atlanta
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Baltimore
Burlington Portland ME
Rochester
Pittsburgh
Cleveland
Cincinnati Lexington
Nashville
Tulsa Los Angeles Santa Ana Orange County San Diego
Louisville
Syracuse
Toronto
Detroit Fort Wayne
Des Moines
Denver
Reno
Grand Rapids
Chicago
Sacramento
Long Beach
Traverse
Minneapolis Boise
Montreal
Ottawa
Portland OR
San Jose
St. John’s
Quebec Duluth
Columbia
Charleston Savannah
Austin
Houston
New Orleans
Jacksonville
Orlando
San Antonio
Tampa
Aer Lingus European and North American Network
Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)
Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)
Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection PreClearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive rive in the US before you depart Ireland. 160 |
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
San Juan Aguadilla Ponce
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to five US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.
Halifax
Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Donegal
Isle of Man Liverpool
Dublin
Shannon
Copenhagen
Newcastle
Belfast
Knock
Kerry
Edinburgh
Birmingham
Cork
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
London (Gatwick)
Southampton
Exeter
Newquay
Berlin
Warsaw
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Cardiff
Hamburg Amsterdam
Dusseldorf Brussels Prague
Frankfurt Jersey
Paris
Stuttgart Vienna
Munich
Rennes
Budapest
Zurich
Nantes Geneva
Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Pula Marseille Nice Bologna
Lyon Bordeaux
Toulouse
Santiago de Compostela
Bilbao
Perpignan
Bourgas
Dubrovnik Rome
Barcelona
Naples
Madrid Corfu
Palma
Lisbon Alicante
Ibiza
Athens Catania
Malaga Faro
Agadir
Tenerife Gran Canaria
Lanzarote Fuerteventura
Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Izmir
Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book flights between Dublin and Abu Dhabi, and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Dublin
Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
Aer Lingus routes from Dublin (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)
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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Perth Sydney
Melbourne
Healy Mac’s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo Now open at Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, Co Mayo
Healy Mac’s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant Malaysia . Indonesia . Ireland
Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board
*A330 aircraft only.
Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
1 Switch on
With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
2 Connect
Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
1 Switch on
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.
3 Purchase Internet Access
2 Aeromobile
Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.
Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
4 Payment
Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
3 Welcome SMS
Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.
5 Username and Password
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
4 Connected You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.
6 Connected
** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 164 |
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER N E W ES LO R I C P
One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95
Choose from Three Private dining spaces ranging from 6 to 16 Guests.
We love it, when you love it! The Trocadero, has been a bastion of the Dublin Restaurant scene and a by-word for hospitality for over 58 years. The warm welcome and relaxed atmosphere, coupled with excellent service and attention to detail make Trocadero perfect for all occasions. An ideal spot to entertain guests, celebrate with family, and gather with friends. No.4, St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. web : www.trocadero.ie
Chef’s Table: It is truly a piece of culinary theatre to dine at the Chef ’s table. Guests can enjoy engaging with the kitchen at full service or retreating into their own private dining experience.
•
Pre-theatre Dinner: Our pre-theatre menu is available from Tuesday to Saturday starting at 5.30pm to allow guests to reach one of the nearby theatres for 7.30pm.
• • Chapter One Restaurant, 18/19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1.
Lunch: Lunch is served Tuesday to Friday from 12.30pm-2pm.
For Reservations : (01) 677 5545 trocaderoireland@gmail.com
01 873 22 66 info@chapteronerestaurant.com www.chapteronerestaurant.com
History In The Making... Over 75 years of mouth-watering quality! • Breakfast Served everyday in Dame Street • Family Meal Deals always available • Low Calorie & Gluten Free Meals * YOU CAN FIND US IN DUBLIN:
• • • • •
HOWTH MESPIL ROAD* CLONTARF* DAME STREET* MALAHIDE* Endorsed by
www.beshoffbros.com
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Cliffs of Moher / The Ring of Kerry / The Giant’s Causeway / Waterford Crystal
The Perfect Inspirational Gift! Truly a Collector’s Item Order Before The Rush!
Tel: +353 1 8560045
www.railtoursireland.com
Christmas Parties & Corporate Gift Vouchers
Catherine Fulvio’s Ballyknocken House & Cookery School Tel: 0404 44627 www.ballyknocken.com
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www.graftonbarbers.com
www.Derricks-of-Destiny.com
From October 16th to November 1st 2015
“Where n e e w o l l a H Began’’
+ 353 46 9097060 www.spiritsofmeath.ie
Managing parking for businesses and consumers.
It’s convenient cashless parking by: APP
American Restaurant & Bar
A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply
Michelin Bib Gourmand
From Houston, TX to Heuston Dublin ™ is available in 300+ locations across Ireland, the UK & USA. Visit www.parkbytext.com
with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie
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BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING
Ways To Look
Younger
Age-defying secrets courtesy of Boutique...
e know what you’re thinking: products that’ll make you look younger sound too good to be true. But research shows there are real strategies that will give you plumper, glowier, younger-looking skin, and they don't involve a trip to the plastic surgeon or even a dermatologist. Add to this the right products and some clever beauty maths and you can subtract years from your age, while adding hydration and extra firmess. We call that a win.
W
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NIP + FAB VIPER VENOM DUO SET, €27 (RRP €47, SAVE €20) They’re the feature to show signs of ageing first, but good news: lines around our eyes, especially those that appear in our twenties and early thirties, are often dehydration marks. Sort them with targeted care, and you can take five years off. Nip + Fab’s Viper Venom Wrinkle Fix and cooling Eye Fix both contain effective anti-ageing ingredients like fast-acting Syn-ake, which smooths skin for a refreshed, firmer result.
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DERMALOGICA SET, €34 (EQUIVALENT VALUE, €55) Establish a good skincare routine that involves cleansing, toning and moisturising daily, and your skin will sing. Our favourite thing about Dermalogica’s Skin Set is the inclusion of its cult Microfoliant: this wonder product gently resurfaces, is suitable for all skin types and can be used morning and night for a complexion that’s polished to perfection.
KIEHL'S FACIAL FUEL ENERGIZING MOISTURE TREATMENT FOR MEN, €29 (RRP €40, SAVE €11) The perfect go-to skin treatment for men, this formula contains caffeine and vitamin C to moisturise and energise the skin while controlling shine. It’s perfect for anyone battling dull or dehydrated skin.
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CLINIQUE SONIC SYSTEM PURIFYING CLEANSING BRUSH, €71 (RRP €89, SAVE €18) Make any at-home pamper session a power hour with Clinique’s Sonic System Purifying Cleansing Brush. This clever dermatologistdeveloped tool gently removes make-up, resurfaces skin and here’s the bonus: it boosts the absorption of any product you apply afterwards, making it an anti-ageing add-on we can’t leave behind.
TALIKA EYEBROW LIPOCILS, €30 (RRP €33, SAVE €3) Get your eyebrow shape right and it’ll frame the rest of your face to perfection. The issue? As we age, our hair tends to become finer, and that includes the brows. The problem can be exacerbated due to over-plucking, but help is at hand to get that on-trend full finish. Talika Lipocils, a serum containing all-natural ingredients, is designed to promote hair regrowth from the root, thanks to nourishing ingredients in the formula.
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YSL LE TEINT TOUCHE ÉCLAT, 30ML, €37 (RRP €40, SAVE €3) As we age, skin loses pigment; we become paler, and just like our lingerie, foundation needs some expert intervention every couple of years. The right shade and formulation can de-age, providing seamless, dewy coverage that’s flattering and light-reflecting. YSL’s Le Teint Touche Éclat foundation provides a veil of coverage that’s never cakey, won’t sit in fine lines and looks like you – but better.
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | SPECIAL OLYMPICS
Courting Success
It’s a long way from Tipperary, found Clonmel’s Special Olympian Kelly Delaney, while in Los Angeles ... his summer, 87 teammates and I travelled to Los Angeles, California, to compete at the 2015 Special Olympics World Summer Games. It was a dream come true to represent Team Ireland in badminton – not everyone gets a chance like this, and I was determined to do my best. After many months of training with Team Ireland and the South Tipperary Tigers, the big day arrived and we all arrived at Dublin Airport on July 21. I’ll never forget the warm welcome we received – there were so many cameramen and journalists wanting to interview and photograph us. Aer Lingus – the official airline for Team Ireland – had a reception for us before we left and the atmosphere was so exciting. We took two flights to get to our destination before arriving in our host town, Downey city in south-east Los Angeles County, California. Everyone there was so welcoming. The 2015 World Games was one of the biggest international sports events this summer, with 6,500 athletes from all over the globe taking part – our big adventure was about to start ... On July 24, we travelled to the Athlete Village in the University of Southern California. The next day we headed to the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum for the opening
T
ceremony of the 2015 World Games – Team Ireland was one of 177 countries taking part in the Parade of Athletes. Special Olympics Ambassador Colin Farrell came to meet us on our way into the stadium and we all had a chance to get photos taken with him. He was very friendly and gorgeous too! The noise of everyone shouting “Ireland” was so loud. US First Lady Michelle Obama welcomed all the athletes; Avril Lavigne and Stevie Wonder performed. The best part, though, was seeing the Olympic torch lit and watching the Special Olympics flag being raised. The following day, officials assessed us and we were put into our divisions for playing. Over the next few days I played lots of matches. I was placed fourth in the singles competition and awarded a ribbon. The doubles competition came next
It was a dream come true to represent team ireland in badminton – I was determined to do my best 168 |
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
A warm welcome greeted the Irish Special Olympians at Dublin Airport, above left. Right, it’s a big thumbs up for our athlete Kelly Delaney.
Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.
and myself and my partner, Amy Quinn from Bray, Co Wicklow, had great fun on court together. We were very close to winning a silver medal, but were unlucky to lose in the third set. But we did secure a bronze medal, which was amazing! August 1 was our last day of the official competition, playing mixed doubles. My playing partner, Liam Foley from Enfield, Co Meath, and I did really well and we won silver. It was such an experience getting our medal on the podium and having photographs taken for the newspapers back home. My last day in the Athlete Village was a sad one because I didn’t want to leave Los Angeles. I had so many new things that my suitcase burst and I had to get a new one! Our last event was the closing ceremony in the Coliseum and I had a ball dancing to all the music acts. My trip to LA was the best time of my life. I made loads of new friends and had lots and lots of fun. A 40-strong coaching and management team supported the athletes in Los Angeles and 155 Irish volunteers also travelled to work at the Games. More than 300 family members made the trip to the World Games to cheer on Team Ireland. To find out more please visit specialolympics.ie
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©Steljes 2015. Details subject to change without notice. SMART Board, SMART taglines are trademarks or registered trademarks of SMART Technologies in the U.S. and/or other countries. Steljes Limited is the authorised distributor of SMART Technologies in the UK, Ireland, Adriatics and Hungary. E&OE. SJ88497
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