PHoToGRAPH By LoRenzo BeLFRonD/ARCHIVIo CMBF
ski | courmayeur
houses and stunning 4,000-metre peaks: Mont Blanc, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Mont Maudit, Grandes Jorasses and Aiguille Verte. Anyone who can ski parallel confidently, and can handle the odd patch of ice and mogul, can tackle it (again, a guide is essential). Once down, hop on the bus from Chamonix back to Courmayeur and do it all over again. The Torino Refuge is also the access point for the Toula Glacier – a series of vast snowfields, crisscrossed with crevasses and a series of huge rollers that eventually take you down to the Pavillon lift station at 2,173 metres, where your reward for all that effort awaits. The restaurant here, called the Pavillon
Restaurant, is exceptional, with dishes such as stew of polenta, deer, sausage and mushroom, and ravioli with borage, cream cheese and dried beef. In fact, if the off-piste skiing is Courmayeur’s main draw, then its restaurants are a close second. A firm favourite among visitors is Maison Vieille, an old shepherds’ hut located at the top of the lift of the same name. Wonderfully rustic, it is run by a charismatic chef, Giacomo Calosi, and the walls are plastered with photos of their famous patrons, from singer Kylie Minogue to motorcycle racer Valentino Rossi. Try Giacomo’s trademark pasta, a tasting of three different homemade dishes.
Five best ski trips ...
Best for groups arinsal, andorra With its link to neighbouring Pal, the ski area has 65 kilometres of pistes, mainly reds and blues, most of which are above 1,900 metres – so you can expect snow even if the forecast is looking questionable. Famed for its affordable, lively après-ski, Arinsal has dozens of bars, most of which double as eateries, ideal for groups who are self-catering. Topflight (01 240 1784; topflight.ie) has seven nights self-catering at Residence Daina Apartments from €437pp, including Aer Lingus flights from Dublin to Toulouse and return transfers.
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Best for families Val d’isère, france Val d’Isère ticks all the family-friendly boxes: a charming town, which is easily explored on foot; 300 kilometres of pistes that cater for all levels of skier and allow you to ski right down into the village at the end of the day; great après-ski, including a cinema, ice-skating rink and sports centre with an indoor pool. Highlife (01 677 1100; highlife.ie) has seven nights all-inclusive at Chalet Jasmin from €760 per adult, €634 per child, including return airport transfers from Geneva. Highlife can arrange Aer Lingus flights upon request.
December 2013/January 2014
Best for foodies saalbach-Hinterglemm, austria Saalbach and its nearneighbour Hinterglemm boast a large (200 kilometres) interlinked circuit of intermediatefriendly pistes. Ski hard and work up an appetite – there are more than 40 huts dotted along the circuit, many of which serve excellent Tyrolean dishes (the Wiener Schnitzel is a must-try). Topflight (as before) has seven nights half-board at Berger’s Sporthotel from €881pp, including Aer Lingus flights from Dublin to Salzburg and transfers.
Best for freeskiers morzine, france Part of the enormous Portes du Soleil ski area, Morzine offers more than 650 kilometres of piste. As well as long, cruisey ones and challenging mogul fields, it's linked to Avoriaz, which has four snowparks. The newest, The Stash, is located in the trees and made entirely of wooden features. Highlife (as before) offers three nights all-inclusive at Chalet Lolana from €519 per adult, €469 per child, including return airport transfers from Geneva. Highlife can arrange Aer Lingus flights, on request.
Best for tHrillseekers kitzbühel, austria This is a big, diverse area that will suit intermediates and advanced skiers best – especially those who like a dose of adrenaline every now and then. The resort is famous for its World Cup downhill course, the Streif – a steep, un-pisted, often mogul-filled run that promises to get your heart-rate up. Topflight (as before) has seven nights half-board at Hotel Strasshofer from €778pp, including Aer Lingus flights from Dublin to Salzburg and transfers.