CARA Magazine Dec 2011 Jan 2012 by Image Publications

Cara Magazine December 2011/January 2012

December 2011/January 2012

Writer Roddy Doyle Irish cookery schools Belfast Cape Cod Gran Canaria

Stage presence Writer Roddy Doyle turns to the theatre

Frankfurt East London Aerobatics

IRISH COOKERY SCHOOLS Where to stir it up

Joseph O’Connor

NORTHERN LIGHTS

Explore the best of Belfast

ISLAND PARADISE

Beach holidays off Cape Cod

WINTER SUN

Rediscover Gran Canaria

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FRANKFURT

Where to shop, eat and stay caramagazine.com

48 HOURS IN EAST LONDON

AUGUST 2011

| 1 COMPLIMENTARY COPY

AIB - Ireland’s leading Corporate Bank to Foreign Direct Investment

Sharing Your Vision in Ireland

For International Companies operating in Ireland, AIB is the Corporate Bank of choice. We’re a corporate bank that thinks globally. We see the big picture – we do everything we can to support visionary ideas. We’re experienced, with dedicated teams working in sectors in which they have specific expertise. We strive to fulfil all your banking requirements and overseas companies locating here have benefited from that for years. We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting

Diarmuid O’Neill Head of International Corporate Banking AIB Corporate Banking Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4

AIB Corporate Banking is a registered business name of Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173

up a business in Ireland, getting the finance in place is just the first step. Because it’s not just about supporting business requirements, it’s about supporting people, and making the move as simple as possible. In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate Banking still believes in keeping it personal.

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AIB Corporate Banking

Contents December/January News

06 ArrivAls We meet a host of Aer Lingus travellers who have landed in Dublin Airport’s T2 for the ﬁrst time

Beach bliss on Gran Canaria

09 News DiAry The dates to make plans for in December and January 10 News hotel From camper vans to chateaux, the best places to stay 12 News restAurANt Check out the newest arrivals on the culinary scene 14 News BusiNess The ﬁve best places to hold a meeting in Paris; and Trish Long, VP of Walt Disney Studios Ireland, nominates Venice as her favourite city to do business in

Belfast explorer

Features 24 Keeping it Real Writer Roddy Doyle talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about why his adaptation of Gogol’s The Government Inspector is so topical

16 News shoppiNg Gadgets to Go: Sive O’Brien has the latest eye-popping travel must-haves

30 a CooK’s touR What’s on the menu at Ireland’s cookery schools? Eoin Higgins ﬁnds out 40 noRtheRn staR Pól Ó Conghaile heads to Belfast, kids in tow, to enjoy the family-friendly city

18 News people My Travel Tips: savvy traveller Craig Doyle shares his top tips

50 shoRe leave Summer resident Laura George on the islands oﬀ Cape Cod where the living is easy

20 News people What’s in my Suitcase? Travel writer Julianne Mooney shows us what to pack for every terrain

58 Cool hunting in gRan CanaRia Kate O’Dowd visits Gran Canaria in search of laidback cool 69 the BeginneR’s guide to aeRoBatiCs High ﬂyer Rob Holland tells Emily Hourican what’s up in the world of aerobatics

22 News Books Shelf life: Claire Brophy browses the latest titles

regulars 72 48 hours: iN eAst loNDoN Amanda Cochrane hunts out the hipster haunts in London’s East End

Backstage with Roddy Doyle

75 AN iNsiDer’s guiDe to FrANkFurt Irishwoman Elizabeth Walsh shows us around the city 83 Aer liNgus iNFlight Movies, music, TV and more to while away your journey 104 trip oF A liFetime Irish wildlife cinematographer Sophie Darlington on the moment that took her breath away December 2011/January 2012

Stage presence Writer Roddy Doyle turns to the theatre

irish Cookery sChools Where to stir it up

NortherN lights

Explore the best of Belfast

islAND pArADise

Beach holidays oﬀ Cape Cod

wiNter suN

Rediscover Gran Canaria

iNsiDer’s guiDe to FrANkFurt

Where to shop, eat and stay caramagazine.com

48 hours iN eAst loNDoN

AUGUST 2011

| 1 COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Cover: Roddy Doyle photographed by Matthew Thompson at the Abbey Theatre, Dublin.

50 Martha’s Vineyard

79 aiRspaCe An extract from writer Joseph O’Connor’s commemorative poem to celebrate Aer Lingus’s 75th anniversary

CONTRIBuTORS EDITORAL Editor Frances Power Editorial Consultant Laura George Editorial Assistant Cassie Delaney Contributors Sive O’Brien, Claire Brophy, Amanda Cochrane ART Art Director Clare Meredith ADVERTISING Account Director Clodagh Edwards, 01 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Ad Manager Noelle O’Reilly, 01 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan, 01 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Head of PR & Promotions Linda McEvitt 01 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Oﬃce Manager Tina Koumarianos Accounts Olga Gordeychuk BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Director Ann Reihill Director Patrick Dillon-Malone PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, 01 280 8415; advertising sales, 01 271 9625; fax 01 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do not necessarily reﬂect the views of Aer Lingus or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Oﬃce of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie Image Publications Ltd – PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL MARY RYAN ON 01 271 9625 OR EMAIL MARY.RYAN@IMAGE.IE

“All of a sudden, we’re looking at Belfast 2.0,” says Pól Ó Conghaile. An awardwinning travel writer whose adventures have taken him from West Cork to the West Indies, Pól brought his family to the Northern Irish capital for this issue’s story on page 40. From the hustle and bustle of St George’s market to the children’s interactive discovery centre at W5; from oysters with pickled ginger and spiced soy at Mourne Seafood to an original DeLorean DMC-12 in the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum, the surprises kept on coming. “The city has almost totally transformed itself since The Troubles,” he says. “And with a Titanic Festival shaping up for the centenary of the Belfast-built liner’s maiden voyage in April, 2012 could be its best year ever.” You can follow Pól as he travels at twitter.com/poloconghaile. “I love doing what I do,” says photographer Anthony Woods (pictured here with his little girl Emily), who is often on the road around Ireland, documenting the country’s landscape, wildlife and people for a guide book or one of his many commissions. Anthony is also a regular at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2, where he snaps Aer Lingus passengers each issue for our “Arrivals” story, see page 6. For this issue, Anthony also headed north with Pól Ó Conghaile to capture the best of Belfast, see page 40. “Visiting Belfast for the ﬁrst time in about 20 years, I was taken by surprise. The vibrancy, the buzz, made it seem like a totally diﬀerent city. We had a blast.” Photographer Matthew Thompson works between London and Dublin on editorial, advertising and personal commissions. His shoot of Roddy Doyle (see “Keeping it Real”, page 24) took him right back to his school days in north Dublin in 1991. U2’s Achtung Baby and Roddy Doyle’s The Commitments had both just been released. “It was,” he remembers, “all the evidence that any Northside teenager needed to realise that by picking up a pen or guitar and being true to yourself, you could somehow transcend the humdrum and predictable (well, that was the theory). Not only was Roddy our generation’s nominated humorist but he was also an unparalleled advocate of lyrical swearing (pivotal at that age).” Fast forward 20 years to the Abbey. “Walking through the dark backstage, I caught a glimpse through a chink in the props, a worn kitchen table, rough wooden stage set against a vast empty auditorium. The seemingly mundane becomes potentially extraordinary, intimate and public, no distractions just substance. Very Roddy.”

Arrivals First Timers

There’s plenty to draw ﬁﬁrst-time rst-time visitors to Ireland as Cara magazine found out at Aer Lingus’s home terminal, T2, recently. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

 Judging by their t-shirts, Londoners (and sisters) CHARLY left, and ELEANOR CHARLY, ODUNSI right, have made ODUNSI, up their minds about Dublin already!

 Australians BONNIE ANDERSON, left, and OLIVIA MICHAJLOW, right, stepped oﬀ the plane from Scotland, ready for a week in Dublin, then it’s on to Amsterdam, Barcelona, London ...

 “Ireland has some lovely places,” says MIA EBERHARY, right, “they’re magic.” She and PETER BLANKENSTEIN, left, have travelled from Munich to explore the Irish countryside. Both made sure to pack their rain jackets.

 It’s a working holiday for JOHAN MOERKERKE, left, and JURGEN SAUERBIER, right, from Holland who are visiting the country to complete work on a ship in Wexford.

 ESTHER HUMMEL from Germany plans to work for four months as a volunteer on an organic farm.

 “Roadtrip!!” says RACHEL ROBINSON, right, when asked what brings her and roommates CAYLEN GIBSON, left, and HOLLY CLARK, centre, to Dublin. They plan to travel around the south coast, staying in B&Bs, visiting pubs and sampling Irish culture.

 What is LUKAS BURKANDT, right, most looking forward to seeing? The Guinness Storehouse. He and KLARA KALINOWSKY, left, from Hamburg are staying in Dublin for ﬁve days R & R.

WORDS BY CASSIE DELANEY

 MAR OLLÉ CAMATS, left, and NACI CANYELLES, right, from Barcelona are in Ireland to sightsee. They were advised by friends to visit Dublin’s attractions and Galway’s pubs.

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

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December/January

What’s happening this winter

The Marvel room, Brown Thomas, Dublin the Christmas shop windows at Bts are one of the festive stops for dublin kids – along with the crib outside the mansion House and the deer in the Phoenix Park. the magic continues indoors this year at Bt, with gifts designed exclusively for the store’s marvel Room from the likes of Chanel, Paul Smith (check out the doghouse) and more… and for children, the new lanvin collection launches december 1. at Brown thomas, Grafton Street, dublin 2, 01 605 6666; brownthomas.com.

7up Winter Wonderland, Dublin even if it doesn’t snow this year, it’ll still be a winter wonderland at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham in dublin in december, what with an ice-rink, Fossett’s Circus, a market, Santa land and the terrifying big wheel. magic. Runs december 8 to January 9; discoverireland.ie/festive.

Big Maggie, Town hall, galway money, sex and land – that old trio of trouble-makers light up John B Keane’s most popular and caustic play, Big Maggie. directed by Garry Hynes, the druid production goes on tour with aisling O’Sullivan in the title role, and Keith duﬀy and John Olohan heading up the cast. On tour nationwide, and January 24-28 at the town Hall theatre, Galway; tickets, druid.ie.

Festival International de Ballons, Château-d’Oex Get some fresh air at the Festival International de Ballons with everything from paragliding displays to parachute drops to aerobatics. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground, catch the inﬂation of special shape balloons on January 22 – you might even catch a glimpse of the famous ﬂying blue rooster! Runs January 21-29, 2012, at Château-d’Oex, Switzerland; festivaldeballons.ch. Aer LIngus FlIeS FROm duBlIn tO ZurICh daIly.

Christmas swim, nice If the Christmas morning swim in Salthill or dublin’s Forty Foot is just a shade too arctic for you, join the swimmer’s at nice’s Bain de Noel instead – you’ll ﬁnd it positively balmy at 15°C. Promenade des anglais, nice. Aer LIngus FlIeS FROm duBlIn tO nICe, mOn, Wed, FRI and Sun.

new Year’s eve run, Berlin Pack your running shoes and escape to Berlin for new year’s eve where clowns, prisoners and devils hit the streets for anything from 2km to 9.9km runs. Best part? the trophy goes to the best costume, not the ﬂeetest of foot. december 31, mommsenstadion, Berlin; berlinersilvesterlauf.de. Aer LIngus FlIeS FROm duBlIn tO BerLIn daIly.

December 2011/January 2012

| 9

news hotel

esCape New hotels, classic places to stay and one for the road. o’Connors Campers, england

This one is for the adventurers, free spirits and anyone who wants to star in their own road movie. Forget about the hassle of hotels and bookings, just travel where you will, when you will in a restored VW Camper Van, dressed up with mod cons such as an iPod connector for that all-important road-trip playlist. “The Barbarossa”, right, for example, is a 1965 original which has been spruced up with a shiny new paint job and luxurious leather interior and sleeps two – definitely the crème de la crème of campers. Extra campbeds and awnings are available at no extra cost. Weeklong rentals from £650. Collect campers from Okehampton, Devon, 0044 183 765 9599; oconnorscampers.co.uk. aer lingus FliEs FrOm DuBlin, shannOn, COrk anD BElFasT TO london heathrow Daily.

generator hostel, dublin

mention interrailing to the average student and chances are it’s not the trains they’ll come over all nostalgic about but the wonders of a Generator hostel. With branches in london, Berlin, Copenhagen and hamburg, the name has become synonymous with backpack chic. now, the backpacker’s haven has landed in Dublin and is just as nifty as its European counterparts. located in smithfield, the hostel is walking distance from the city’s hippest night-time haunts. it also boasts a cool bar and terrace area, free Wi-Fi and a chill out lounge. mixed dorms from €15pps. smithfield square, Dublin 7; 01 901 0222; generatorhostels.com.

the standard, new York

nothing standard about this design beauty. Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the view – on one side, lies manhattan’s icecool meatpacking District, and on the other, the serene hudson. Every room has a touch of luxury with plasma screen TVs, Wi-Fi, and those big, big windows. it’s no wonder that of late The standard has been playing host to rock royalty such as Florence and the machine and Beyoncé. Great location, great views and the celebrity seal of approval? For us, it’s a no brainer. rooms from $385; 848 Washington street; 001 212 645 4646; standardhotels.com. aer lingus FliEs FrOm DuBlin TO new York Daily, anD FrOm shannOn TO new York, FOur TimEs a WEEk.

park hotel kenmare, Co kerrY

Terraced gardens, superb 19th century-style country house rooms, 21st century service, a restaurant overlooking kenmare Bay, and an internationally garlanded spa – you could say with a hefty degree of certainty that Park hotel kenmare has it all. The mollifying continues over the winter/seasonal period, as the hotel ramps up its special offers and packages. if your idea of escape from life’s hustle and bustle constitutes combining luxury with a generous if modest spirit and a human touch, then look no further. Packages from €475pps for two nights; new year packages, which include a Gala Black Tie Banquet, from €795pps for two nights; shelbourne street, kenmare, Co kerry, 064 664 1200; parkkenmare.com.

Upgrade your camera skills (and enjoy a break) with EYE photographic holiday s on a five-day intermediate-level course in the pretty old town of Pollença in Mallorca. From £1,450pp, February 24-28, eyephotographicworkshops.com. 10 |

December 2011/January 2012

Philips LED TV

WHATEVER’S NEXT? Since 1843, Arnotts have always been first with the latest in technology, home appliances and sound systems.

Panasonic Lumix camera

Great colours, sharp picture quality and audio performance that excels where so many other brands fall short, the Philips LED TV brings you as close to the theatre experience as possible without buying a ticket. And it delivers all of this in a very appealing rounded design.

The Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ20 delivers perfect pictures with features including a long 16x zoom range and fast continuous shooting. And whenever you need to capture live action, it comes with the option of full HD recording.

And we’re still delivering the latest technology today in our new Technology and Home Appliances Department on the Lower Ground floor. Whatever’s next, we’ll have it, since 1843.

Apple iPod Touch The updates may be subtle, but the thirdgeneration iPod Touch leaves competitors in its wake with new additions including voice control, graphics enhancements, improved accessibility, higher capacity and a faster processor.

Beats by Dr. Dre headphones Artists and producers spend countless hours fine-tuning and mixing music to get it exactly how they want their fans to hear it. But the vast majority of headphones can’t accurately reproduce the intricacies produced in the TM TM studio. Simply put, Beats by Dr. Dre TM Studio High Definition Powered Isolation Headphones can. With precision-engineered, advanced speaker design, powered amplification, and powered noise cancellation, you hear music the way today’s top artists and producers want you to hear.

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WE’LL HAVE IT.

Enjoy 10% OFF at Arnotts new Technology Department for the month of December. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Terms and conditions apply. Excludes Apple.

news restAurAnt

food file Where social media might just get you a free meal, and the hottest places to book now. le Bon cruBeen, duBlin

Lauded by The Dubliner magazine as the capital’s best casual dining spot, Le Bon Crubeen certainly has a reputation to uphold and big shoes for any new head chef to ﬁll. enter Sam Byrne who, over the past decade, has worked under the tutelage of ferran Adrià Acosta at el Bulli, been chef de cuisine for Conrad Gallagher and more recently, led the kitchen operations for The Dining room at La Stampa hotel. he’s even been called on by TV3 to assist with their reality show, Head Chef. now he’s heading up the pass at Le Bon Crubeen and it seems there’s no better man for the role. expect ﬁnest irish produce in the french manner from Byrne’s new menu. 81 Talbot Street, Dublin 1, 01 704 0126; leboncrubeen.ie.

Bills, london

Australian Bill Granger’s arrival in the culinary world was less than conventional – he studied art not catering in college. Part-time work as a waiter fired a passion for the kitchen rather than the easel and, in 1993, at just 22 years of age, he opened his first restaurant, bills, in Sydney. The mellow dining haunt, which offered a twist on Asian food, became a quick favourite with locals and tourist alike. By 2005, Bill was the proprietor of five bills, including two in Japan. At last, after a career that has included nine cookbooks and three TV series, the empire builder is to open his first restaurant this side of the globe. The restaurant (which has yet to be named – but we’re thinking bills might be in the running) will offer the same menu as its Asian counterparts – a modern spin on classic Asian food – and opens in December in London’s trendy Westbourne Grove. Book now. 175 Westbourne Grove, London W2; billgranger.co.uk Aer lingus fLieS from DuBLin, ShAnnon, Cork AnD BeLfAST To london HeAtHrow DAiLy.

HeiMAt kücHe + BAr, HAMBurg

heimAT küche + Bar is the most recent addition to the award-winning 25hours hotel in hamburg. True to the chic design of the hotel, the new space is a vibrant mismatch of textures, colours and prints. from the warm interior to the rustic menu everything about this place screams good, hearty and wholesome. under the direction of chef frank Droste, the restaurant serves simple modern homemade dishes using the ﬁnest ingredients; think roasted cod served with potato and caramelised onions. And don’t leave without tasting the famous heimAT beef burger. uberseealles 5, hamburg, 00 49 40 25 77 840; 25hours-hotel.com. Aer lingus fLieS from DuBLin To HAMBurg, mon, WeD, fri AnD Sun.

skinflint, duBlin

Skinflint is the newest addition to the unusual culinary family fathered by Joe macken. its siblings, Jo’Burger and Crackbird are Dublin’s most talked about, or maybe that should be most tweeted about, haunts. Jo’Burger, a hip burger joint in rathmines (and the first place we experienced the joy of sweet potato fries), was macken’s first offspring. Crackbird in the city centre, which specialises in all things chicken, followed. What’s so different there? Well, Crackbird bookings are made by tweet only, and the first tweeter for each sitting gets a free meal. Skinflint, which serves up pizzas in the heart of Temple Bar, continues the #tweetseat tradition. And the food, by the way, is delicious and recession-friendly. Get in on the action by following @SkinflintDuBLin. 19 Crane Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2; skinflint.joburger.ie.

Library which serves up exotic Moroccan, Best lunchspot in DuBlin? The Silk Road Café at the Chester Beatty add a side dish of culture with a Afghan, Palestinian and Greek dishes (just try the baklava). Until February 26, of John Thomson; cbl.ie. viewing of their exhibition of 19th century photographs, China Through the Lens 12 |

December 2011/January 2012

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11/11

NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL

Smart TRAVELLER

Going abroad on business? Lisa Hughes has advice to help you arrive sharp and focussed.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK: VENICE

TRISH LONG

As vice president and general manager of Walt Disney Studios, Ireland, Trish travels regularly on business. My favourite city for business … I spend lots of time in London because our European HQ is there. I have also worked a lot in NYC and in many European cities but, given how much of an Italophile I am, I have to choose an Italian city. Much as I love Rome, it just has to be Venice. Best spot for meetings … Our business involves ﬁlm events, festivals, premieres, etc, so our meetings usually take place where our directors/ actors are staying. These include Cipriani (absolutely gorgeous but incredibly expensive, hotelcipriani. com); Danieli (in the city and luxurious, danielihotelvenice. com) and Excelsior (on the Lido, where the Venice Film Festival is located, hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com). Best hotel … A welllocated and costeﬀective option is Hotel Monaco

(hotelmonaco.it). Best place for business lunches … One of my favourite restaurants, frequented by gondoliers at lunch time so you know the food is good, is Vino Vino. Very reasonable, great seafood and lovely chicchetti (Italian tapas). Best place for business drinks … “Le Conchiglie” Bar at the San Clemente Palace Hotel, where you can drink outside (weather permitting), the Bucintoro Hotel near St Mark’s Square or La Zucca for Italian wines. Doing business in Venice for the ﬁrst time … Take the advice of Henry James and approach it for the ﬁrst time by sea. While private water taxis from the airport can be expensive, it is possible to share them (ACTV) or use the Alilaguna Water Bus (costs about €15) which stops at many of the hotels. Getting around … Walk as much as possible, and, when

23%

LE BAR DU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE AT HÔTEL PLAZA ATHÉNÉE A sophisticated place to have a chilled meeting – and to discover the most creative cocktails in Paris. (25 avenue Montaigne; 0033 153 676 665; plaza-athenee-paris.com) plaza-athenee-paris.com LOUIS2 AT THE HÔTEL TRÉMOILLE A lively restaurant at lunchtime but a quiet meeting spot in the afternoon, Louis2 is a stone’s throw from both the Champs-Elysées and the Avenue Montaigne and has all the glamour of the 1930s. (14 rue de la Trémoille; 0033 156 521 400; tremoille.com) ESPACE DALÍ, MONTMARTRE If formal meeting rooms are not your thing, try the theatrical Espace Dalí to inject a taste of art and culture into your business day. (11 rue Poulbot; 0033 142 644 010; daliparis.com) CASTILLE For an Italian experience in Paris, look no further than Castille in the 1st Arrondissement. Take your pick from the impressive L’Assaggio fine dining restaurant or, for something lighter, try the Salon de Thé and spice up your meeting with one of the many world teas on offer. (33-37 rue Cambon; 0033 144 584 458; castille.com) HOTEL DU PANTHEON Located opposite the famous Pantheon, this hotel, below, is within walking distance of the Left Bank and the homely lobby and bar offer relaxed spots to hold a meeting. Free Wi-Fi available. (19 place du Pantheon; 0033 143 543 295; hoteldupantheon.com)

2 you can’t, use the vaporetti (water buses). A cheap way to experience a short ride in a gondola is to use a canalcrossing gondola called “traghetti” which you can hop on or oﬀ for a few euro. For a full gondola ride, prebook with localvenicetours. com (approx €40 per person). Budget business travel tip … If spending more than two days in a new city, I always try to acquaint myself with the public transport system. It’s so cheap, easy to use and saves lots of time stuck in traﬃc. Always … allow much more time (at least 30 minutes extra) to get to meetings than you think you’ll need.

of business travellers admit to falling asleep in meetings after travelling.

Pack healthy snacks, such as an apple, dried fruit or (unsalted) cashew nuts, and snack regularly to keep your blood sugar levels steady. A passenger can lose up to 1.5 litres of water during a three-hour ﬂight so ﬁght

5 BEST SPOTS IN PARIS FOR BUSINESS MEETINGS

dehydration by drinking lots of water and avoiding carbonated, caﬀeinated and alcoholic drinks. Practise the art of the power nap – 45-minute naps will do more for you than guzzling coﬀee.

4 5

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

Robert O’Shea, Partner and Head of International Business Group

THE FIRST RULE OF SUCCESS SURROUND YOURSELF WITH THE BEST The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Robert O’Shea, Partner and Head of our International Business Group, focuses on advising international companies doing business in and through Ireland. Matheson Ormsby Prentice. Lawyers of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland. Contact Robert at robert.oshea@mop.ie, or your usual contact at Matheson Ormsby Prentice. www.mop.ie

driven by excellence

DUBLIN

LONDON

NEW YORK

PALO ALTO

NEWS SHOPPING 3

GADGETS TO GO

Lighten up your travels with a cheery pop of colour. By Sive O’Brien.

5 7

1 VAIO NOTEBOOK €729 at The Sony Centre, 35 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 2 GPS TRAVEL TRACKER i-gotU, €45 at expansys.ie 3 UNIVERSAL ADAPTOR €18 at ﬂight001.com 4 PORTABLE SPEAKERS Jambox, €190 at paulsmith.co.uk 5 SOUNDRING IPOD DOCK Philips, €279.99 at Arnotts 6 DIGITAL CAMERA Olympus, €548 at pixmania.ie 7 LUGGAGE TAG €8.15 at thepodcompany.co.uk 8 LEATHER IPAD CASE Victoria Beckham, €895 at Brown Thomas 9 XACTI UNDERWATER HD CAMCORDER Sanyo, €785 at amazon.co.uk 10 LEATHER SUITCASE WITH WHEELS €1,240 at globe-trotter.com.

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DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

1953.

Panasonic Lumix camera 2011.

1984.

Beats by Dr. Dre Headphones 2011.

1990.

Apple iPod Touch 2011.

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STRAP NEWS PEOPLE

Craig Doyle

I LOVE TO TRAVEL ... The best trip ever was a horseback safari through the Okavango Delta in Botswana. I galloped through the bush with a giraffe herd, it was exhilarating. But, at night, I had to take a shotgun to the toilet for fear of being attacked by a wild beast. THE MOST SPECIAL PLACE IN THE WORLD IS ... Patagonia – it’s a place of utter beauty and peace: vast grassy plains, huge angry-looking mountains, creaking glaciers and hypnotic glacial lakes littered with pristine icebergs. It is one of the few places in the world you feel completely at peace. FAMILY HOLIDAYS ARE ... very different from when I travel for work! Four kids hinder how adventurous you can be, although sometimes dealing with angry lions would be easier than dealing with kids on a flight. Usually we go to France with a big bunch of friends – Fota Island is a great Irish family holiday too, just bring wet suits and it doesn’t matter what the weather brings. THE MOST DRAMATIC THING TO HAPPEN ME ... was getting hunted down and attacked by a lioness whose cubs had just been killed, on Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe. We sat low to the ground, kept eye contact and hoped she would back down. After circling us a few times she

MYEL TRAIV T PS

The broadcaster and travel addict takes time out with Sive O’Brien.

He’s a man with many hats – having started his broadcasting life as a presenter on BBC radio, Craig Doyle’s career has taken him from radio to TV, from the UK to Ireland, with plenty of globe-trotting in between. His television work confirmed him as a firm favourite on BBC for many years, including the dream job of reviewing far-flung places for The Holiday Show. More recently he landed the job of rugby anchor for ITV Sport, covering the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand as well as motor racing, tennis and golf. On home ground, he’s RTÉ’s golden boy. His latest role is presenting RTÉ 2’s The Social, a new chat-show with a social media twist. When he’s not in front of the camera, he’s at home in Wicklow with his wife and four children and loves nothing more than the good life. Plans involve adding a pig and a goat to the household!

3 DOYLE-INSPIRED TRIPS TO TRY

Live like a royal in France Who doesn’t dream of holidaying in a chateau? If it’s luxury you crave, try Chateau Bouﬀereille, left, in the Lot-et-Garonne. Historic enough to be stunning, modern enough to have all the comforts; a rustic dream of a property, with contemporary musthaves like Wi-Fi and a games room. Sleeps twelve, from €2,500 per week; classic-french-chateaux.co.uk.

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DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

Horseriding in Patagonia Explore the vast open plains of Patagonia on horseback on a ten day expedition from Chile Nativo. The tour covers every type of terrain, from forest to farmland, leading riders through every crevice of the region’s famed landscape. Accommodation can be anywhere from a rustic restored farmhouse to a hotel. From $2,850pp; chilenativo.cl.

let out an incredible roar and walked away – it took a while before I had any feeling in my legs again. THE MOST UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER WAS WITH ... Cameron Diaz at a campsite in a remote part of Belize, Central America. I met her in a rum shack, I didn’t even recognise her at ﬁrst and we ended up going kayaking the next day. YOU REALISE WHAT POVERTY IS WHEN ... you’re in India or in favelas in South America. To see so many beautiful children wearing rags, sleeping on the streets trying to survive, is heartbreaking. WHEN YOUR TEAM ARE PLAYING ... it’s hard but you have to try to remain unbiased. When Wales beat Ireland in the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand, I was truly heartbroken but had to be upbeat about the Welsh performance and congratulate the players. ONE OF LIFE’S MUST-SEE SPORTING EVENTS IS THE ... Isle of Man TT race, which I work at every year. It’s incredibly dangerous and that tends to overshadow just how skilful you need to be to ride in it. The top riders are incredible athletes. I MEET A LOT OF FAMOUS PEOPLE ... but I only really get star struck by the sporting legends. Interviewing Tiger Woods before his fall from grace was amazing – he has an incredible aura about him.

Fota Island, Cork Pack up the kids á la Craig Doyle and head to Fota Island Resort (and enjoy the wildlife park nearby) for a few nights of downtime with the family. Make sure to treat yourself to a relaxation day with a seaweed massage and hydrotherapy bath. Spa packages with two nights B&B, dinner and treatment from €209pp, or choose self-catering in one of the lodges; fotaisland.ie.

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NEWS PEOPLE

WHAT’S IN N MY SUITCASE

Julianne Mooney

alon Julianne at Ports gal Beach, Co Done

Julianne has a serious case of wanderlust. She has spent much of the last two years scouring the emerald isle, touring the coast and unearthing the best hot spots and hidden gems Ireland has to off offer er – all for the very fi first rst edition of Time Out Ireland. And, when she’s not globe-trotting, she’s dashing off a quick entry on her travel blog, working for Fáilte Ireland, on air with her Ireland AM travel slot (the last one was on glamping) or organising the Dublin Book Festival. Any free time is spent, with her boyfriend in Dublin or baking up a storm in the kitchen, a pasttime she is passionate about and happy to research wherever she roams. Next up? A trip to Vancouver and the Rockies. Wish we were there; juliannemooney.com. juliannemooney.com Sive O’Brien 3

5 BEST CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Southbank Centre, London Just the place to find that stocking filler – London’s Southbank centre comes over all festive with fairylights, wooden chalets offering wooden toys, handcrafted jewellery and homemade soaps. Warm up with a tipple of Glühwein. November 18 to December 24; xmas.markets.com. Christkindlmarkt, Vienna Vienna is an old hand at Christmas markets (1294 marked its debut festive show). Opt for the classic (and biggest) Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz, try some ice-skating or bag yourself some roast chestnuts, candied fruits, gingerbread or punch or browse the historic Spittelberg quarter for traditional handicrafts. November 12 to December 24; vienna4u.at. The 12 Days of Christmas Market, Docklands, Dublin For a modern take on ye olde market, try Dublin’s Docklands market. Expect neon instead of fairylights and pop-up shops instead of chalets. December 1–18; ddda.ie. The Old Town, Zurich For the real deal, Switzerland is the place to visit. With a host of markets all over the city, Zurich really is the homeland of the homemade. For a touch of tradition, try The Christmas Market in the Old Town. December 8–24; christmasmarkets.com. Charlottenburg Castle Market, Berlin Whether it’s a cute magical market you’re after, or a lively urban one, put Berlin on your list. The entire city is transformed into a shopping haven, with 60 markets occupying main squares, hidden side streets and even museums. For something extra special and slightly gothic, try the Charlottenburg Castle Christmas Market. November 22 to December 31; germany-christmasmarket.org.uk.

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1 DUFFLE COAT €122 at Topshop, 6-7 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 2 MASCARA Max Factor, €14.99 at pharmacies nationwide 3 KNITTED HAT €23.50 at Accessorize 4 LEATHER GLOVES €20 at Marks & Spencer nationwide 5 KNITTED SWEATER €140 at Reiss, 1 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 6 SKINNY JEANS Hello!, €129 at The White Door, 14 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 7 BODY MOISTURISER Voya, €26 at House of Fraser 8 HOT WATER BOTTLE COVER €17 at Topshop, as before 9 LIP GLOSS €17 at MAC at Brown Thomas; Dublin Airport 10 PERFUME 30ml by Agent Provocateur, €44 at Debenhams 11 WALKING SHOES Salomon, €64.90 at outwoodsports.co.uk 12 CAMERA Nikon CoolpixL120, €280 at Conns Cameras, 54 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2 13 IRELAND GUIDEBOOK Time Out, €13.99 at Dubray Books nationwide 14WELLINGTONS €4 at Penneys nationwide.

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DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

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NEWS BOOKS

SHELF LIFE

Cooking, ﬁction and an intriguingly diﬀerent self-help book catch Claire Brophy’s eye. Traces Remain: Essays and Explorations by Charles Nicholl (Allen Lane, HB, £20) out December 1. Comprising 30 pieces written over two decades, this collection is already being hailed as the very best work from a writer who has been translated into 17 languages. Witty and engaging, these tales draw you in. Whether it is intrigue in Renaissance Rome, or the childhood of Christopher Marlowe, or the grisly crimes of Jack the Ripper, Nicholl’s unique blend of literary detective, biographer and travel writer is not to be missed. Flourishing by Maureen Gaffney (Penguin Ireland, €16.99) out now. Have we finally had enough of bemoaning the recession? Perhaps. Psychologist Maureen Gaffney’s book Flourishing certainly shows us how to move on. Drawing from the philosophy of Aristotle and

its lessons on how to live the best possible life, Flourishing aims to teach us the value of living as best we can. It’s a thought-provoking book, concerned with achieving excellence, from which, she believes, happiness will follow. First, she examines how the brain works, then looks at practical ways to live well, by outlining how and why we must learn to focus our attention, regulate our moods, and take control of our lives by making good choices that enhance every aspect of our lives. Sounds so simple, doesn’t it? The Man Who Rained by Ali Shaw (Atlantic Books, HB, £12.99) out January 1. Take two parts Grimm’s Fairy Tales, one part Wuthering Heights and throw in some Silent Hill, and you’ll find something similar to Ali Shaw’s latest. Elegantly written, the novel follows the story of Elsa, who escapes from New York to the isolated settlement of Thunderstown after the death of her father in a tornado. Nature’s

elemental presence becomes manifest in the guise of Finn Munro, a man who has a storm inside him – and the pair quickly find that their affinity causes a bigger battle than they could have imagined. A vivid and wonderfully imaginative novel, The Man Who Rained is a mixture of old-fashioned fable and atmospheric magic. Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara (Little, Brown, HB, £35) out December 1. If you can’t find your way to Eleven Madison Park this winter, the smoking-hot restaurant’s cookbook must be the next best thing. Composed by executive chef Daniel Humm and general manager Will Guidara, it features more than 125 beautiful recipes with photographs to make your mouth water. Adapted for home cooking, The Cookbook means you can recreate the experience of one of NY’s finest eateries in your own kitchen.

homes abandoned to emigration lit up Kudos to Cork-born photographer David Creedon, whose evocative shots of Irish figures at the National Portrait Gallery in the pages of Ghosts of the Faithful Departed (Collins, €24.99). Now his work exhibition that runs to February 12, 2012. London, where it is included in the Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize

Who’s reading what …

This month, we ask author and journalist Tony Clayton-Lea what’s on his mind. What are you reading? “I tend to roam through modern literature, I rarely go near the “classics” – shame on me – and I always seem to have a musicrelated book on the go. My favourite author of the past year or so is Daniel Woodrell; he’s best known for Winter’s Bone, but his previous books are even better. His latest, a short story collection, The Outlaw Album, is stunning in its simplicity and chill factor. Aside from books,

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I’m a magazine ﬁend – the likes of Q, Mojo, Empire and The Word drag me away from paperbacks! Newspaper? The Irish Times.” What’s on your playlist? “Too much! What I’ve enjoyed recently has been a mixture of new and old: the 20th anniversary edition of U2’s Achtung Baby is just fab, while 2011 albums from the likes of Lisa Hannigan, Land Lovers, Ron Sexsmith, Cashier No 9, Gavin Friday and Coldplay hit the spot.”

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

Where do you go to hear live music? “Mostly in Ireland: Dublin’s O2, Vicar Street, Grand Canal theatre, Whelan’s; Dundalk’s Spirit Store – the best small venue in Ireland.” What’s your favourite place on earth? “Mostly, it’s where I live, but I’m lucky enough to get to travel several times a year. I adore Paris, Barcelona, New York City, but I’d love to visit Prague and somewhere warm and exotic like the Maldives,

Seychelles or Mauritius. We live in hope!” Tony Clayton-Lea’s 101 Irish Records You Must Hear Before You Die (Liberties Press, €17.99) is out now.

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IntervIew

l a re

Keeping it

Writer Roddy Doyle shuns the trappings of celebrity – his creations remain rooted in the working-class experience. As his adaptation of Gogol’s The Government Inspector is staged at the Abbey Theatre, he tells Tony Clayton-Lea why the 19th-century satirical comedy is so topical. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

oddy Doyle is having none of this celebrity lark; he keeps himself to himself, his business is his and his alone, and if you’re asking him for the name of his favourite restaurant you’d swear you can hear him chuckling at the absurdity of the question. Doyle seems the type of person (and he’s certainly the kind of writer) who deals in the real world: he’s married to a woman called Belinda, he has two sons (Rory and Jack), he works from home, he supports

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December 2011/January 2012

Chelsea FC, he loves all manner of music, and he writes most days within a disciplined, structured framework of time and projects. Twice Booker Prize nominated (1991, The Van; 1993, Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha, which won the prize), Doyle has long since shed the celebrity skin that clung to him so ill fittingly. He lives in a north Dublin suburb, the precise location of which we neither know nor want to find out. That’s the way he likes it. That’s the way he wants it. Modest in demeanour, unassuming

in countenance, private in manner, Doyle is as real as it gets in a world seemingly taken over by the notion of what’s cool, what sells, what gives. “I had no idea my name was going to be called out,” he says of the night in 1993 that he was awarded the Booker Prize. “After that, for a while, I was making decisions that I’d never had to make before, like how public did I want to be. Having conversations with my wife that we never thought we’d have ... But we made our rules early – about publicity, privacy – and

December 2011/January 2012

| 25

gradually we got back to normal, so to speak. There were demands on me, having won the Booker Prize, that I’d attend this and do that, but I really didn’t want those things. I hadn’t done them before, and I didn’t want to do them. People wanted me to open this, launch that – I could see why, but I didn’t want to be in that world. For example, I love going to the theatre, but I rarely go to an opening night unless there’s a friend involved.” How apt is the comment about theatre. We’re talking in Dublin’s Abbey Theatre, where, as you read this, Doyle’s adaptation of Nikolai Gogol’s The Government Inspector is packing them in. He says he originally read the play over 30 years ago, but on re-reading it (in the context of a suggestion by the Abbey Theatre’s literary director, Aideen Howard), he could see the work as being very current. “I thought it could quite easily be an Irish story; I’ve retained the Russian time period and the setting, but the accent and the language is Irish.” Doyle’s treatment of a viciously satirical work about flagrant selfinterest and bribery was given a first draft in 2010, when, as he says about Ireland’s financial woes, “things had well and truly gone belly-up”. By the time the second draft was started, he remarks, “the IMF rumours were starting, and denied. I was working on the first act of the second draft when the IMF came into town. So some of the events happening were easy to slot into the play itself, as well as some of the language – references to delegations arriving, and so on.” Notwithstanding his serious work, Doyle has a justified reputation for being able to make people laugh. Was there any pressure on his part to make his treatment even funnier than the original? “No, not really. Having decided to do it, I read about four different translations and one was very funny, but what was lacking in the other versions was the language, which seemed a bit neutral. What you always want with a play is that it’s funnier than it is on paper – 26 |

December 2011/January 2012

PhotograPh by ros Kavanagh

IntervIew

the actors, the director, the extra dimensions, will add to it rather than complicate things. I suppose the hope is that it’s funnier [than the original], but how do you measure funny?” We ponder one of life’s mystifying questions for a few seconds, and then he says, “Certainly, not to do the play for laughs would have been a major creative mistake …” Doyle hasn’t made too many of those, it has to be said. Now in his early 50s, his back-story is reasonably well known: he attended a Christian Brothers school in Sutton, north Co Dublin; after college he started working as a teacher of English and Geography in Greendale Community School, Kilbarrack, slap-bang in the city’s northside; he achieved major recognition (as well as criticism) for his official debut novel, The Commitments, and for his subsequent two novels, The Snapper (1990) and The Van (1991). In 1991, Alan Parker’s film of The Commitments made Doyle even more famous, which was added to by the success of Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha (which remains one of the bestselling Booker Prize-winning novels). From then to now, Doyle has

Reworking a classic – Marion O’Dwyer, Don Wycherley and Liz Fitzgibbon in the Abbey Theatre production of Gogol’s The Government Inspector gets the Roddy Doyle treatment.

applied his skills to delivering realist work that is rooted in the workingclass experience. In turn immensely funny and intensely dramatic, his writing rarely (if ever) rings untrue; his dialogue is naturally unfussy and all the more riveting for it. When did he realise that he wanted to write full time? “Full time didn’t enter into it … My job as a teacher was what I was happy doing. If someone said to me that it was what I’d be doing until I was 65, then grand. I started in 1979 and I loved the job.” Doyle says he wrote The Commitments in 1986, the bulk of it during the Easter school holidays and the remainder of it during the school summer break. After that, he started writing the play that would become known as Brownbread. With a broad smile, he says he felt he had loads of time to write, and it had never occurred to him that, like many other people, he was writing in the hope of escaping his job. But leave teaching he eventually did, jumping from the clamour of the classes and the camaraderie of the staff room to what is, effectively, a self-imposed solitariness that is occasionally interrupted by

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IntervIew

returning school-going children, tuning in to football results on the radio, making a mug of coffee and putting a wash on. “The solitary aspect is part of the job – and I’m happy enough with my own company. Depending on what I’m doing I’ll have music on in the background, but you realise you can’t do it when there are other people around – unless it’s a co-written project. No, I work at home. There are things I miss, like going for a pint on a Friday with my colleagues, but I don’t have any!” For a writer so busy with various projects (he is currently working on a novel, a book for children and finalising details on a musical of The Commitments), it’s salutary if not downright gratifying to know that Doyle’s establishment of the Dublinbased creative writing centre for kids, Fighting Words, celebrates three years in existence in January 2012. “We try to make that blank creative page as adventurous and inviting as possible. It isn’t a school thing, in that it doesn’t end when the bell goes. There are no wrong decisions, just good ones and better

ones, and ones you can learn from. And failure – the decision to give up and start again is actually quite a good idea very often. In the school system there’s no room for failure – the word itself is terrifying – so we try to make it as engaging as possible. The quality of the work is

“Failure – the decision to give up and start again is actually quite a good idea very often. In the school system there’s no room for failure ...”

sometimes quite breathtaking.” Quality is perhaps the key word when it comes to Doyle himself – albeit quality of life as much as quality control, each of which he has apparently managed to blend without any obvious discomfort. He has little problem scrapping work he’s not satisfied with, he says, the English teacher in him wielding, rapier-like, a red biro with as much élan and accuracy as Zorro. Doyle and the world at large can be thankful he didn’t cut into shreds The Commitments, which, in 2012, celebrates the 25th anniversary of its publication (as well as possibly making its stage debut in London). Does he have a sense of what has happened to him in the intervening time? “I don’t think about it,” he replies, “because my head is down working on things. I go up to the attic and I work away on things, and that’s as good as I am. I’m not being coy, either – as good as I am is what I’m doing today.” The Government Inspector runs at Dublin’s abbey theatre until January 28 (abbeytheatre.ie). roddy Doyle’s latest works include a short story collection, Bullﬁghting, and a novel for children, A Greyhound of a Girl. For further information visit roddydoyle.ie; for further details about Fighting Words, visit ﬁghtingwords.ie.

rODDY DOYLe’S FAvOUrIte … … CItY “Dublin. other than Dublin, it’s new York, which is a wonderful place. I was there in late october for the other voices new york event – I walked up 5th avenue, walked back down 6th avenue. It was like two diﬀerent cities, yet there was only a few hundred yards distance between them. new york never fails to surprise me …” … reStAUrAnt “the honest answer is that I don’t have one, but my favourite bar would have to include Peter’s Pub [1 Johnson Place, Dublin 2; 01 679 3347; peterspub.ie].”

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… MUSIC “My current listening? I’m really enjoying Smile, by the beach boys, tom Waits’ new album, Bad as Me. I’m also listening to a lot of music I heard at that other voices new york event – bands I wasn’t really familiar with. Irish bands such as Jape, whose latest album Ocean of Frequency is very good; bellX1’s new album, Bloodless Coup, and the Lost brothers, whose new album, So Long John Fante, is out now. Martin hayes, the ﬁddle player … but the Smile album is just

December 2011/January 2012

something else. I didn’t anticipate that it would be so brilliant.” … BOOKS “I’m a voracious reader, and I’ve just finished The Marriage Plot by Jeffrey Eugenides, which I liked very much. I’m reading right now What is Madness? by Darian Leader. It isn’t fiction, and it’s an interesting subject. he wrote a book a few years ago called The New Black, which is about depression and the ‘depression’

industry. I’m rereading The Complete Stories of Flannery O’Connor, and I just love them. and I’m also reading The Man Who Recorded the World, a biography of alan Lomax, the folk and blues archivist. It’s costing me a fortune, though, because I’m buying so much of the music I’m reading about. oh – and another must read is Daniel Woodrell’s short story collection, The Outlaw Album, which is just stunning.”

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people

Cook’sTour

If you like your food (and who doesn’t?), then a stay at an Irish cookery school to polish up your culinary skills might be just the ticket. Eoin Higgins meets the chefs behind some of Ireland’s best cookery schools. Photographs by Trevor Hart.

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Darina and Rachel Allen, Ballymaloe, Co Cork Ballymaloe, perhaps the best-known cookery school in the country, is run by the Allen family in Shanagarry, Co Cork: Darina Allen (owner, and daughter of its founder, Myrtle Allen) and her daughter-in-law Rachel Allen. So what makes Ballymaloe special? For Darina, it is that “[the school] is right in the middle of an organic farm and an acre of greenhouses. We have really beautiful produce almost year round. We have hens, pigs, chickens and jersey cows. If you ask the students why they’ve come to our courses, they will most probably tell you it’s because of the farm.” For Rachel, “It’s Darina and Myrtle’s food ethos, which, put basically, is to start with the best ingredients possible, grown with the fewest pesticides. Both [Darina and Myrtle] make it known how important it is to not mess around with the food and to use up everything where possible. That’s what gets great results.” Darina continues, “In addition to the cookery, we also do courses on forgotten skills, where people can learn how to make butter, yogurt, cheeses … how to cure a pig in a day – how to make salamis and chorizos. A lot of people may not feel like making butter anytime soon, but if you over-whip cream, it’s useful to know how to make it into butter, for example.” What else do you hope to impart to students? Rachel continues, “... that it’s easy, and totally possible, to cook really good food for you, your friends and your family, even if you don’t have a huge amount of time or money. The thing that’s hard is knowing the cuts of meat, the vegetables, knowing the dishes you can cook. I really try to show the versatility of different dishes.” And Darina concludes, “Anybody can learn to cook if they want to. I can bring people from ‘this is a wooden spoon’ to being able to host a dinner party, in a week. It gives you great confidence and it’s one of the easiest ways to make friends and influence people – being able to cook. You’ll have people crawling out of the woodwork!” See cookingisfun.ie or contact 021 4646785.

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n educational, gastronomic odyssey ... in Ireland? It’s not that long ago that the suggestion of a foodie holiday to Ireland might have elicited expectations of, well, if not an altogether fruitless expedition, then perhaps a fairly uneventful trip. And rightly so, our gastro reputation had a repertoire that extended to two or three versions of soda bread, a closely guarded recipe for colcannon (kale and potatoes) and a terribly complicated delicacy called the Full Irish Breakfast. Not exactly a mouth-watering prospect. However, things have changed and visitors to contemporary Ireland are just as likely to find themselves extolling the virtues of a pub’s gastronomy as they are its Guinness. We have a dedicated bunch of food enthusiasts to thank for that – as far back as the 1980s, they set out to showcase Ireland as the larder of Europe. Alongside that foodie mission, there has been a slow, yet steady movement towards developing our own cuisine, and it’s hard not to be encouraged by the rate of change. From the elegance of Dublin’s Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy such as L’Ecrivain, Chapter One and Patrick Guilbaud, to the dedication of the people behind Cork’s thriving market scene, there is much to be excited by. Alongside the growth in the foodie movement, a slew of worldclass cookery schools have opened their doors – upwards of 40 schools at last count, and that figure continues to grow. From Kevin Dundon’s fantastic Dunbrody Country House Cookery School in Co Wexford, to the slick new Kitchen in the Castle in Dublin’s picturesque coastal town of Howth, there are many, many other school options available to suit everyone from an absolute beginner to a near professional. Here, we highlight some of our favourites and talk to the people behind their success.

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Liz Moore, Belle Isle, Co Fermanagh “Ireland is experiencing an amazing food revolution at the moment ... suddenly we’re recognising what’s right in front of us, because we’ve always had amazing producers. Producers all over the country are really gaining conﬁdence and saying, you know, we can create our own unique meat dish or vegetable dish that isn’t based on Parma ham or Parmesan cheese.” Liz teaches at Belle Isle Cookery School in Co Fermanagh, attracting students far and wide, but the school is no overnight success. “I really put in a hard slog for many years. So I think one of the reasons I’m well placed in the cookery school is that I’ve made every mistake in the book, and invented a few as well. I know ﬁrsthand exactly where people

can go wrong and why they go wrong.” What’s the best aspect of the Belle Isle experience? “We are in a huge shooting area and, in gaming season, we do a course called Shoot it, Cook it, Eat it. People arrive in the morning and go oﬀ shooting pigeon until lunch. Then they come back and cook everything they shot. It gives people total access to the provenance of their ingredients and helps engender respect. Seeing a live bird, shooting it, and preparing it may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but if you eat meat, somebody has had to kill it and that’s the bottom line. I just love being able to use ingredients that have had a proper life.” See belle-isle.com or contact 048 663 87231.

Situated on a private Georgian estate, just 20 minutes from the city & Dublin airport Lyons is Ireland's premier venue RESTAURANT ~ BOUTIQUE HOTEL ~ WEDDING VENUE ~ MEETINGS & EVENTS ~ COOKERY SCHOOL ~ CAFE ~ SHOPS

T: 01 630 3500 www.villageatlyons.com

Winter party food canapÉ É ideas

Camembert Crostini with Ballymaloe Cranberry Sauce (with optional slice of turkey or chicken). Mini Homemade Sausage Rolls with Ballymaloe Country Relish Mexican Cheese and Bacon Quesadillas with Ballymaloe Jalapeno Pepper Relish

Ballymaloe Products are widely available in Germany and USA, also available in UK and Luxemburg, please see our website for further details. Visit us online for delicious recipes www.ballymaloecountryrelish.ie Follow us on facebook www.facebook.com/ballymaloerelish

Wishing our customers a very Happy and Peaceful Christmas

people

Clodagh McKenna The Village at Lyons, Co Kildare Clodagh McKenna has appeared in her own TV series, authored a number of bestselling books on Irish food and, most recently, launched two restaurants at Arnotts in Dublin. She takes a practical approach with newcomers: “I start with materials, letting students know that it’s vital to get the right equipment in the kitchen and, probably more importantly, to budget while doing that. You don’t need ten different types of knives, that’s a myth – you just need a really good chopping knife, a fruit knife, a filleting knife, a good chopping board and then you must be organised – organisation is key to happy, stress-free cooking. I tell students how to best stock their larder too. Forward planning is essential; I recommend buying all dry goods in bulk. This prevents last-minute big purchases.” And what can students expect from classes in the new year? “What excites me around this time of year is healthy eating. January is probably my healthiest month so I plan lots of healthy cooking classes where we can start the year off well. We’ll use a lot of fresh vegetables because there aren’t a lot of exciting things in season. For me, instead of focusing on what’s in season, it’s more about taking various steps to eat healthier – like juicing. So we’ll be juicing our way through January!” See villageatlyons.com or contact 01 630 3500.

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Paul Flynn, The Tannery, Co Waterford Paul Flynn turned his back on the lure of Michelin stars three years ago to set up a cookery school, alongside his already established, and critically-acclaimed, restaurant, The Tannery, in Dungarvan, Co Waterford. “For me, if I had a philosophy it would be ‘good food doesn’t have to be posh food’, and that’s why I left the whole chasing Michelin stars thing;

that philosophy gives you the freedom to cook what you really want to eat. That said, if you are into experiencing great technique too you can still go oﬀ to a gastronomic temple and enjoy that. But you don’t want to be eating that kind of food all the time.” So what type of folks turn up for the classes? “The main thing with the people who come to us, even if

they are complete beginners, is that they are people who enjoy food, and that’s where it all starts, if you like to eat, and I don’t mean to excess, but if you can even appreciate a good sandwich, and you’d like to improve what you do at home, we can certainly help.” See tannery.ie or contact 058 45420.

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Catherine Fulvio, Ballyknocken, Co Wicklow Growing up “a Wicklow farmer’s daughter” has given Catherine Fulvio an envious grounding in food production as well as preparation, and she believes her school’s strength lies in the fact it is located on a working farm, in Glenealy. “Ballyknocken is a destination cookery school. We oﬀer accommodation in our Victorian farmhouse and we run cookery classes too. We are

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farming people, so visitors coming from abroad get to really experience an Irish farm. Primarily we are sheep farmers, but we also have our own vegetable, herb and soft fruit gardens. We produce as much as we can and that’s really important in that we give people a look at what grows, and why it grows so well, in Ireland.” It’s hard not to be impressed by Catherine’s

pedigree, but surely it’s not just about how the food is produced? “My aim is to encourage people to eat well, in order to be well, and by that I mean source the best produce that you can, source your food from people who produce it with love and care, and that will be good for you.” See thecookeryschool.ie or call 0404 44627.

Eimer Rainsford, PinkGinger, Dublin Eimer Rainsford, of the Dublin cookery school PinkGinger in Sandymount, is keen to pass on the message that eating locally is a sound way to ensure small suppliers ﬂourish and you get the best produce available. “For me, it’s all about the quality of our suppliers, those delivering the raw materials. A lot of what we use is local in a way that larger cities can’t match.” What else do you think is important for someone thinking of donning an apron? “A good understanding of your ingredients

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is vital, if you understand the basic things about your ingredients, you’ll be amazed at what you can achieve quite quickly. I also love when my students enjoy cooking, that’s something I want to drive home, cooking shouldn’t be seen as a chore – and it’s nothing to be afraid of. A sense of conﬁdence in the kitchen is also important, to lose that fear of making mistakes; mistakes are part of the process.” And the larger food scene in Dublin? “Dublin, particularly, has become

really strong in the past ten years, and in line with that the food has also improved. You can see it everywhere, from the younger chefs coming up now who have a lot of creativity, breaking out and doing little things independently, whether it’s a street food idea or they’ve been given the opportunity to set up in a bar, there is so much going on, and much to experience for the food lover.” See pinkginger.ie or call 087 9864 964.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TREVOR HART, ASSISTED BY SYLVIE CORDENNER

people

“Quintessential Irish Pub”

The is how this one could be classed. Seated on top of the Dublin Mountains in Glencullen this pub has brought a multitude of visitors to the area, in fact, the footfall figures are an astonishing 250,000 people per year who make the scenic trek up the mountain roads to this “step-back-in-time” pub.

The Food

The Price

Famed for it’s height and also for it’s menu, Johnnie Fox’s truly has it all, from wonderful seafood platters to signature dishes such as Scallops or Mahi-Mahi Diablo and whilst known for the seafood Johnnie Fox’s also has succulent tasty Mountain Steaks, drop off the bone Lamb Shanks and of course a range of other dishes including vegetarian and even a childrens menu.

The € is set “just right” because Johnnie Fox’s steers clear of “early birds” and “lunch specials” by running a special “Value menu” alongside it’s acclaimed a la carte menu and what is more they run it all day every day (and night). The “Value Menu” sees main courses starting from as little as €9.95. and with good selection one can have a 3 course meal from as little as €16.85.

The Hooley Show An outstanding “up-close and personal show” - traditional Irish bands, great food, great drink and the world famous “Johnnie Fox’s Dancers” all combine to make this a real night to remember. Advance booking is required as it fills up very quickly and 48.00 per person one can at only €49.95 see why. This is the show the others try to mimic. Located a stones throw from Exit 15 (M50), 5 mins from Enniskerry, 10 mins from Dundrum Town Centre and 30 mins from Dublin City Centre - phone us and ask about the bus service. Telephone: (01) 295 5647

Email: info@jfp.ie

Website: jfp.ie

belfast

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Northern Star Belfast has transformed itself as a tourist destination since The Troubles. Pól Ó Conghaile ﬁnds a heady mix of culture, craic, family-friendly museums, and good old-fashioned rock ’n’ roll in a once dour city. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

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“

Have a listen to this,” says Paul Keane, connecting a black iPod to There’s more the bus’s stereo system. There’s than a hint of mischief in his voice. “No prize for guessing what it is, but we’re gonna spin around the corner now to the venue where the song was first premièred.” He presses play, and the Belfast Music Tour eases onto Bedford Street to a sweet soundtrack, the unmistakable opening bars of one of rock’s all-time classics. “Stairway to Heaven!” blurts out a man wearing a black hat and pony tail beside me. Behind his white goatee, Paul smiles. Led Zeppelin first played “Stairway” live at the Ulster Hall on March 5, 1971. “The music was so loud they couldn’t hear a gun battle taking place around the corner,” he says, conjuring up the scene with a delicious attention to detail. Northern Ireland’s Troubles in full flight, the folksy finger-picking building and building, Jimmy Page switching from six to twelve strings on his twin-necked Gibson, Robert Plant all perm and torso. And with that, he cranks up the guitar solo. It’s the first of many surprises over a weekend in Belfast. Wasn’t this supposed to be a dour city, a bleak industrial port whose most famous export sank on its maiden voyage? Isn’t it supposed to be scarred by conflict, a place where nothing opens before silly-o-clock on a Sunday? Erm, no, actually. As the music 42 |

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tour hints, it’s a city with a whack of northern soul. Did you know Belfast is twinned with Nashville, Tennessee? Think of Van Morrison singing about Cypress Avenue. Picture the sweat from Rory Gallagher’s face slowly eroding his Stratocaster. Check out the guitar Gary Lightbody of Snow Patrol used to write “Chasing Cars” in the Oh Yeah Music Centre. Pause for thought at the gallery of signed photos at the Limelight. Oasis were on stage here when they first hit No 1 in the UK album charts. They promptly downed tools to celebrate. Belfast stereotypes in midshatter, I head out of the Oh Yeah Music Centre, where the tour ends, into the Cathedral Quarter. Named for St Anne’s Cathedral (you can’t miss it – there’s a 70-metre Spire of Hope bursting through its roof), the area is today the focus of a thriving arts scene, with galleries like Belfast Exposed and Red Barn sharing the cobblestones with some of the city’s best bars and restaurants, an arts college and the Belfast circus school. Walking past the Duke of York

Previous page, Kieran Arthur of Cabbage Patch at St George’s Market. This page, clockwise from top left, the Titanic Belfast in the Titanic Quarter, the Albert Memorial Clock Tower; the Victoria Centre’s glass dome; Pól Ó Conghaile ﬁnds plenty of Northern soul.

pub, I spot a mural of legendary BBC broadcaster John Peel down an alleyway. Usually, when I think of murals in Belfast, dodgy renderings of King Billy on end-of-terrace houses along the Shankill Road spring to mind. These stalwarts of sectarian conflict are still on full display of course – the difference now is that they are a tourist attraction. The best way to see the murals, and the bleak “peace line” dividing the Catholic and Protestant communities of West Belfast, is on a Black Taxi Tour. Previously, cabbies like the one that drove me around would have feared for their life here.

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belfast

Now, they’re happy to chat away as tourists hop in and out, shooting pictures of murals of Bobby Sands or Picasso’s “Guernica” on the Catholic side, or the balaclava-wearing UVF member whose gun follows you like the Mona Lisa’s eyes along the Shankill. I’m even encouraged to scribble my name on the wall with a marker. Welcome to 21st-century Northern Ireland. Since the Belfast Agreement of 1998, the city has blossomed. Its docklands have been reborn as the Titanic Quarter. Taking my kids up the elevator to the twinkling, gherkin-like dome of the Victoria Square shopping centre, we see a skyline dominated by Samson and Goliath, the iconic Harland & Wolff cranes, sure. But we also see the Waterfront, which recently hosted the MTV European Music Awards, the splashes of neon, and the new Titanic Belfast centre shimmering

like a starfish on the riverbank. At Thanksgiving Square, my daughter Rosa and I stop at a sculpture of a woman holding up what looks like a giant metal hulahoop. It’s Andy Scott’s “Beacon of Hope”, a spiralling, stainless steel lady on the Lagan, and a celebration of peace and harmony. Belfast works for families too. The following morning at the Ulster Museum, we’re issued with a Kids Explorer Map and a set of stickers, which we use to ferret out Takabuti the mummy, Peter the polar bear and Spanish Armada treasure amidst the collections. “Do you want to hold some dinosaur poo?” asks an attendant at one of the interactive areas. We do, and it feels like rusty metal. From there, we proceed to peer through marvellous microscopes and grownup binoculars, check the pointiness of a piranha’s teeth and stroke a seal pelt before chasing each other

Left, dinosaur poo, piranha teeth and giant conches – all at the Ulster Museum; Pol’s daughter, Rosa listens for the ocean’s roar, above, green space at the Botanic Gardens.

around the sun-splashed Botanic Gardens outside. The Ulster Folk & Transport Museum out in Holywood is also worth a whizz. Sure, it sounds fusty. But then you find yourself standing next to real-life Thomas the Tank Engines, chatting to costumed actors, and gazing like a twelve-year-old at a real DeLorean DMC-12. Another surprise – the star car from the Back to the Future movies, complete with gullwing doors, was built in Belfast. The museum is also home to TITANICa, an exhibition tracing the story of the ill-fated liner, also built in Belfast, from inception to iceberg. It’s not all storyboards and

the InsIder’s GuIde Restaurateur Michael Deane lives in Belfast with his wife and child and runs six restaurants, one of which, Deanes, held a Michelin star for over twelve years. Despite a hectic work schedule, he likes to get out and about to enjoy the city. “As I’m a keen runner, Belfast is the ideal city for me to get away from it all within just minutes of the busy city streets. the lagan towpath stretches for eleven miles from

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Belfast to Lisburn, the town where I was born. It’s a superb run along the beautiful river side ... a truly amazing natural asset right on our doorstep! A more recent addition to the city is the world-class Victoria square shopping Centre, housing some of the most glamorous shops in Ireland. It’s my perfect place for a Sunday afternoon browse. I’m proud that my business, deanes restaurant, is in

Howard Street – the Bond Street of Belfast – with its unique mix of individual shops like the upmarket gift store equinox and without doubt the most cutting-edge men’s fashion shop in the city, the bureau belfast. As a family we love ethnic cooking and our favourite haunt is the all seasons Chinese restaurant in Botanic Avenue in the University Quarter of Belfast.”

eat at … Mourne seafood bar Don’t expect a set menu at this city-centre joint on Bank Street. Do expect a dark bistro bustling with everyone from business suits to shoppers, and snap-fresh dishes based on the day’s catch from Kilkeel. Oysters are a speciality. 048 9024 8544; mourneseafood.com.

figurines either – exhibits include a porthole and soup tureen recovered from the wreck, and if you look closely at a poster from the 1997 movie starring Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio, you’ll spot a delicate little message from Millvina Dean, the final Titanic survivor at the time of her death in 2009. It’s the Titanic’s centenary in 2012 and Belfast is going big on the commemorations. A full-on festival will culminate in a gala show on April 14, and a multi-million-euro interactive centre is set to open in March. Titanic Belfast will tell the liner’s story from conception right through to the discovery of her ghoulish grave 13,000 feet beneath the Atlantic Ocean. “We only built and designed it,” as my black taxi tour guide deadpanned. “It took an Englishman to drive it into the iceberg.” Nevertheless, Belfast has the strongest claim of any city to the Titanic. Stand at the lip of the Thompson Dry Dock today, and it’s hard not to be moved by the eeriness and scale of the liner’s footprint. The Pump-House alongside was once the beating heart of Harland & Wolff’s operations, and you can take a Titanic walking tour (titanicwalk.com) that includes special access to the original

James street south Stashed away down a back street near City Hall, Niall McKenna’s restaurant, above, is a study in minimalist chic. Local ingredients and French-inﬂuenced cooking stop just short of being stuﬀy … perfect for that little black dress. 048 9043 4310; jamesstreetsouth.co.uk. Made in belfast Venison burgers, game stews and cow pies are all on the winter menu at this funky Wellington Street spot, with a mashup of décor you’d just love to take home to your loft. 048 9024 6712; madeinbelfastni.com. (It has a second restaurant on Talbot Street in the Cathedral Quarter; 048 9024 4107.)

a Rolls-Royce for airport runs. Rooms from £160; 16 Skipper Street; 048 9023 4888; themerchanthotel.com. europa Belfast’s grand dame has been at the centre of city (and political) life for 40 years, with a guest list that ranges from Bill Clinton to Atomic Kitten. 272 bedrooms don’t exactly make for an intimate proposition, but it is a classic. Rooms from £90; Great Victoria Street. 048 9027 1066; hastingshotels.com. the Malmaison Located in a swankily restored old warehouse, the Malmaison is Belfast’s Goth-chic boutique hotel, a decadent, low-lit bolthole (“slinky” is a word that crops up on its website) with 62 bedrooms and two rock ’n’ roll suites. Rooms from £85; Victoria Street; 048 9022 0200; malmaison-belfast.com.

shop at …

envoy Ruth Spence’s boutique is a beautiful space lined with labels you won’t ﬁnd anywhere else in Northern Ireland. Think Paul Harnden, FWK or Bags in Progress – she even takes alterations to the tailor on a sparkling Black Nelly bicycle. 4 Wellington Street; 048 9031 1110; envoyofbelfast.com.

sleep at …

Merchant hotel The one Belfast hotel, above, that would turn heads anywhere in the world. The five-star fits effortlessly into the Cathedral Quarter, an Art Deco extension was recently added, and they even have

smyth & Gibson Shirts start at £90 a pop here, above, but there’s a reason for the high prices: it’s the last shirtmaker in Northern Ireland. Products are hand-crafted from Swiss and Italian cottons, and equal care goes into the freshly baked treats upstairs. 16-22 Bedford Street; 048 9023 0388; smythandgibson.com. déjà vu The Lisburn Road doesn’t always justify its “style mile” sobriquet, but shops like this are what browsing is all about. Designer cast-oﬀs are the speciality – ﬂog your own (there’s a 50 per cent commission) or buy someone else’s. 453 Lisburn Road; 048 9038 1807.

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the wonderful world of w5 Parents raised on a diet of “Don’t Touch” signs should take a deep breath before entering W5. From the moment you step into this interactive galaxy, kids are touching, feeling, smelling and pressing everything in sight. It’s like a child’s imagination laid out over several storeys. Within seconds of shedding her coat, Rosa, five, is pumping air into giant tubes of water, watching jellyfishlike bubbles rise towards the ceiling. Beside us, another father and daughter figure out how to inflate hot air balloons. Upstairs, you can even take a lie detector test. Almost 200 interactive

exhibits are spread over four dynamic areas – labelled Start, Go, See and Do. Seeing as both of my kids fall into the nought to eight bracket (Sam, right with Pól, is one), we make a beeline for Start, a hands-on discovery area that will be familiar to fans of Dublin’s Imaginosity. It’s like being in a candy factory, only the candy is educational rather than edible. Rosa hits the supermarket, ﬁlling a basket with plastic food. Sam can’t get over the fact that he’s allowed to sit into the driver’s seat, and spin the wheel, in a bright yellow Mini Cooper. Over the course of an hour or so, the kids get to lift

drawing oﬃces. “Belfast was the Cape Canaveral of its day,” one local tells me. “There was such imagination and chutzpah in what those shipbuilders could do.” The chutzpah isn’t all historical, mind you. Step inside St George’s Market and you’ll see that. Every kind of trader is at work amongst the cast-iron columns here – the lugubrious fishmonger holding up his salmon, the hen and duck egg man, the beaming fruit and veg guy with a fistful of mucky carrots. As we’re leaving, a stallholder hands over two apples. “They’re lovely,” he says. “No charge.” “There’s a bit of a renaissance going on at the moment,” is how 46 |

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foam tiles with a crane, shoot plastic balls into an air vortex, compare the size and texture of their hands to a gorilla’s, work a boat sail, and serve toy buns and cake to adults in the mini-café. They can’t believe their luck. As well as the permanent exhibits, W5 stages regular exhibitions, science demos and events. It’s clean, wellmaintained and, astonishingly, there’s very little evidence of the trashing it must take from kids on a daily basis. An A-plus all round. Admission £7.70/£5.70 at Odyssey, 2 Queen’s Quay, 048 9046 7700; w5online.co.uk.

Michele Shirlow of NI Good Food puts it, over a plate of salt and chilli squid at the Mourne Seafood Bar. There’s more confidence around since The Troubles, she says. Young chefs, new cookery schools and small producers are following the trails blazed by mavericks such as Michael Deane and Paul Rankin. “Northern Ireland is being itself; it’s not pretending to be something else.” And we do eat well in Belfast. There’s an excellent rack of Antrim lamb with smoked aubergine at James Street South, with most ingredients sourced within 30 miles of the city. Michael Deane may have lost his Michelin Star, but his Bedford Street bistro is bustling, and I can recommend the grilled

Left, St George’s Market, and above, ﬁshmongers Brian Sharvin and Jonathan Cochrane.

haddock and crushed peas for Sunday lunch at Deanes at Queens. I also demolish several oysters and a plate of squid and chorizo risotto at the Mourne Seafood Bar. “Belfast, devout and profane and hard,” runs a line from Louis MacNeice’s Valediction. The counter argument to that is a night out. From barnstorming trad sessions at Kelly’s Cellars to cocktails at the

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belfast

Left, Julia Samuels at Muriel’s Café Bar and, above, The Crown Bar, one of the country’s most beautiful places to sink a pint.

Daytrip

Merchant Hotel, Belfast’s pubs and clubs are driving on with a thumping sense of freedom. At Muriel’s Café Bar on Church Lane, I spot the barman mixing up a fire-engine red cocktail in a jam jar. It’s a Milliner’s Mix, the house special, though he won’t say what class of liquor is being shaken up with the ice and cranberry juice. “It’s a secret,” he smiles. I order one, unscrew the lid, pop in a short black straw, and get supping. It’s sweet and syrupy, with a sly kick – going

The Giant’s Causeway is the top attraction along the Northern coast – strewn with hexagonal basalt columns formed by volcanic eruptions some 60 million years ago. Don’t miss the vertiginous Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge near Ballintoy (it will earn you that Harlem Café, whiskey in Bushmill’s), and it’s also possible back full circle to take a 20-minute ferry ride to Rathlin, at Ulster Hall. “I Ireland’s most northerly inhabited took a mad risk opening here,” says island. discovernorthernireland.com; Faye Rogers. An old rathlinballycastleferry.com.

hand in glove with the decadent damask, tasselled lamps and velvet cushions upstairs. Then there’s the Crown Liquor Saloon, a pub so fine it’s a national monument. Dating from 1885, the network of timeworn wooden snugs here has to be seen to be believed, as do the mosaic tiles, stained glass, scalloped lights and burnished primrose ceiling. Our final stop in Belfast is the

piano bar had previously blocked out the building’s art nouveau windows, she says, allowing customers inside to dance on the tables during The Troubles. Today, I’m happy to say, Belfast is dancing in broad daylight.

and To find out more information on what’s on in Belfast or for information on places to stay or things to see s do in Northern Ireland, check out the free booking and advice service and callsave 1850 230 230, visit NITB’ Tourist Information Centre in Suffolk Street Dublin 2 or click on discovernorthernireland.com.

book now for … the Queen: art and Image This touring exhibition from the National Portrait Gallery brings a host of paintings, photos and media portraits to the Ulster Museum. Images from the likes of Warhol and Leibovitz mark 60 years of Queen Elizabeth’s reign (to January 15, 2012). See nmni.com. Christmas in belfast The annual continental market is in full ﬂight at City Hall until December 19, with a village of traditional wooden huts bringing nibbles and crafts from as far aﬁeld as Peru and France (belfastcity.gov.uk/markets).

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Santa will be ensconced in his grotto, and a musical adaptation of The Little Prince is at the Lyric (lyrictheatre.co.uk) until January 15, 2012. the out to lunch festival Every January the edge is taken from Belfast’s winter chill with this lunchtime series of music, comedy and theatre. The genius bit is that tickets include a bite to eat – all for a recessionbusting £6. This year’s line-up includes Mercury nominee Ghostpoet, Luka Bloom, journalist Jon Ronson and comedian Josie Long. January 4-29, 2012. See cqaf.com.

December 2011/January 2012

the titanic belfast festival 2012 Titanic was built in Belfast, and a series of events is planned for 2012 to mark the centenary of the liner’s ill-fated maiden voyage. They include the opening the new Titanic Belfast interactive centre (April 7), an MTV event on the Titanic slipways (April 11) and a gala commemoration in the Waterfront Hall (April 14). See discovernorthernireland.com/ titanic2012. land of Giants Northern Ireland’s largest ever outdoor arts event will bring a cast and crew of 500 to the Titanic

slipways on June 30. Taking its inspiration from local giants including Finn McCool, Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver and Harland & Wolff’s cranes, the acrobatics, music, pyrotechnics and dance will play a key role in the lead up to the 2012 Olympics. See landofgiants.info. the belfast festival at Queen’s The 50th instalment of Belfast’s flagship arts festival takes place from October 19 to November 3, 2012, with an exciting programme of dance, music, theatre, visual arts, film, classical and world music coming to life in many forms. See belfastfestival.com.

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Shoreleave

Beach life is elevated to an art form on the islands oﬀ Cape Cod. Summer resident Laura George explores a place ﬁt for a president.

etlag really works a treat on Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. It means you can slot in almost instantly with the pace of island life. American holiday-makers are serious early birds. They suck every second out of their vacations, beginning with a jog or swim first thing in the morning. By 8 am, they’ve done a full work out and are sitting down on the porch with their favourite frothy hot drink (but not from Starbucks – all chains are banned from the islands) and The New York Times. They come out in droves, ribbons of them winding down the bike paths that run parallel to the beach from Edgartown to Oak Bluffs, two of the Vineyard’s main towns, stopping off sometimes for a dip in the calm Sound. Cars (which rarely exceed 40 kmph) come to a complete halt for anyone crossing over the road at least five metres in advance. They wield their politesse as if to say, “here at least we are civilised. America is not broken.” There’s definitely a hint of The Truman Show about.

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The population swells from a This page, from are surprisingly reminiscent of the left, the laidback Irish countryside. One hedge fund modest 15,000 to more than 75,000 charm of Martha’s gentleman “farmer” there has a in peak season but there’s plenty of Vineyard, summer room for everyone and something resident Laura herd of Wagyu cattle shipped in at for everybody. Each town on the George in the the beginning of every summer to Sound, gingerbread complete the tableau. They leave island has a distinct personality. houses at Oakbluﬀs, after Labor Day. But that’s nothing Edgartown is the preppy patriarch beachcombing who kicks off every night with compared to the spectacle of the goodies. Opposite, a stiff martini, Oak Bluffs the up island at Gay Obamas arriving in a massive fleet of funkier cousin with a penchant head Lighthouse. helicopters for their annual getaway for craft beer, Vineyard Haven at Blue Heron Farm. While they’re the primmer aunt who has to get in residence, a naval destroyer up in the morning for work (it’s a anchors off the beach. Just in case. dry town so you have to BYOB to The rest of us mortals eschew restaurants). Up island, Chilmark, flying in to the islands so as to Aquinnah and Tisbury are the savour the magic of the ferry from Boho black sheep of the family the Cape. The minute you board – within reason. Everyone and come out on deck, you’ve still drives a Volvo or SUV entered an alternative SOUNDTRACK but it’s dented, plastered universe; the holiday has Long-time islanders James with private beach permit begun. A hot cup of New Taylor and Carly Simon would stickers from the last England clam chowder in have to feature prominently but 15 years, and contains hand, the Cape recedes throw Tisbury native Willy Mason’s at least two large dogs. and Vineyard landmarks If the Ocean Gets Rough and Hamptons-style bling is come into clearer view – Vampire Weekend’s Cape frowned on everywhere the estates of East Chop, Cod Kwassa Kwassa into but particularly here. the tall ship Shenandoah, the mix. Architecturally the which cruises the harbour, historic towns are distinct, and Ocean Park, ringed by too. Edgartown’s stately whaling beautiful old houses. captains’ houses are picture-perfect Vineyard beaches are magnificent and as varied as the towns. South Greek Revival; Oak Bluffs is all Beach stretches for miles with classic about gingerbread Victorians and dunes, big surf, lifeguards and plenty the sprawling up island farms with of opportunities for people-watching. their dry stone walls and meadows 52 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

It’s like an Abercrombie catalogue shoot so teenagers love it but families with smaller children tend to prefer the near stillness of sheltered State Beach, or the lagoon at Long Point Beach where toddlers can paddle with impunity. Meanwhile, the more adventurous trek farther afield afield to deserted beaches accessible only by boat, a hike or four-wheel drive (with permit) on Chappaquiddick, or one of the nature preserves operated by the state’s land trust, including a relatively secluded nudist beach at Aquinnah. For those keen on privacy, a rake of private beaches up island are nirvana; you have to rent or own locally to be granted a special permit for them. Think post-Ari Jackie O walking in her headscarf and capris alone in the surf. Whatever the destination, a day at the beach tends to be much more elaborately outfitted than the average skite to Brittas Bay. Everyone has beach chairs, a proper cooler (maybe on wheels) and some sports equipment at a minimum (you can rent everything on-island from fishing rods to yachts). At a maximum, there will be not just a full-sized barbecue but all the accoutrements for a beach clambake – lobsters, clams and the most delectable fresh corn on earth. As well as endless fresh seafood, the island has a disproportionate amount of organic farms, which yield incredible produce that is sold at roadside farmstands and markets, many of which operate on honesty systems (you leave your money behind in an open tin can!). A foodie could make a nice day of touring the island collecting fresh yogurt, heirloom tomatoes, homebaked pies and bouquets.

The population swells from a modest 15,000 to more than 75,000 in peak season but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of room for everyone and something for everybody.

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Hob Knob in Edgartown

EaT aT ...

Lazier gourmets have an endless array of choice, too. They can start by queuing up for breakfast at The ArtCliff Diner in Vineyard Haven. There may be an hour wait (in the sun, with a paper and loads of chat), but mascarpone and strawberrystuffed French toast, pecan rum raisin pancakes and lobster eggs Benedict somehow make it all worthwhile. At the other end of the day, the hopping Atlantic Bar & Grill’s legendary surf and turf or the innovative farm-to-table cuisine of State Road (the Obama’s virtual canteen) awaits. Alternatively, it’s hard to beat sitting on a dock at sunset with a giant tub of fried clams and a Narragansett beer. It’s a miracle anyone goes home without gaining a stone – no wonder they all exercise so much. There is a subtle but palpable difference between Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, although they are only a short ferry ride apart. Some would say the former is more rarefied and more exclusive. It’s certainly smaller, with only one real town, Nantucket (the picturesque Siasconset – pronounced “Sconset” – in the easternmost part of the island is more of a hamlet, although it does boast a little “casino” where they play movies on 54 |

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Postcard prettiness at Siasconset on Nantucket Island.

atlantic Bar & Grill Best al fresco views, seafood, buzz (2 Main Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 7001; atlanticmv.com). Détente Upscale and inventive (Nevin Square, Edgartown, 001 508 627 8810; detentemv.com). Offshore ale Microbrewery and bar food (30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs, 001 508 693 2626; offshoreale.com). state Road Farm to table joys (688 State Road, West Tisbury, 001 508 693 8582; stateroadrestaurant.com). artcliff Diner All day, all good (39 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 1224). NaNTUcKET Brotherhood of Thieves Family classic (23 Bond Street, 001 508 228 2551; brotherhoodofthieves.com). Fog Island café Breakfast to die for (7 South Water Street, 001 508 228 1818; fogisland.com). something Natural Sandwiches, baked goods sans pareil (50 Cliff Road, 001 508 228 0504; somethingnatural.com).

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Most visitors rent houses although there are some lovely places to stay. On the Vineyard, the boutique Hob Knob (rooms from $200, 128 Main Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 9510; hobknob.com) and ultra fancy charlotte Inns (rooms from $325, 27 South Summer Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 4151; charlotteinn.net) aren’t very beachy but they are romantic and well positioned. The classic Harbor View (rooms from $99, 131 North Water Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 7000; harbor-view.com), Harborside (open April to November, rooms from $210, 3 South Water Street, Edgartown, 001 800 627 4009; theharborsideinn.com) and Kelley House Hotels (rooms from $89, 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 7900; kelley-house.com) meanwhile

boast pools and sea views. Out of town, The Beach plum Inn (rooms from $195, 12 Menemsha Inn Road, 001 508 645 9500; beachpluminn. com) in Menemsha and the Lambert’s cove Inn (rooms from $175, 90 Manaquayak Road, 001 508 693 2298; lambertscoveinn.com) are cute. NaNTUcKET’s Wauwinet Inn (rooms from $225, 120 Wauwinet Road, 001 508 228 1045; wauwinet. com) is pure luxury (with prices to match) while The White Elephant (rooms from $195, 50 Easton Street; whiteelephanthotel.com) earns its reputation as the local Grande Dame year after year.

sHOp aT ...

Bunch of Grapes One of the most outstanding bookshops in America. The First Family’s ﬁrst stop (44 Main Street, Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 2291). Midnight Farm Unconventional gifts, furnishings and clothing (18 Water-Cromwell Lane, Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 1997; midnightfarm.net). Nochi Exquisite, elegant neutral fashion edit and furnishings (29 Main Street, Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 9074; nochimv.com). NaNTUcKET Murray’s Toggery For iconic island classics (62 Main Street, Nantucket, 001 800 368 2134; nantucketreds.com).

DRINK aT ...

atlantic After dinner the restaurant becomes a nightclub (2 Main Street, Edgartown, 001 508 627 7001; atlanticmv.com). sand Bar (6 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluﬀs, 001 508 693 7111). Nectar’s Live music (17 Airport Road, Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 1137). NaNTUcKET captain Toby’s and Gazebo (20 Straight Wharf, 001 508 228 0836). The chicken Box Live music (16 Dave Street, 001 508 228 9717; thechickenbox.com).

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EscapE

GETTING THERE From Boston, you can connect by air (capeair.com) or by car ferry to the islands (steamshipauthority. com). It’s the easiest connection imaginable from Boston’s Logan airport – a bus picks you up at the airport right outside the baggage hall and delivers you to the ferry, which leaves a few minutes later and the journey lasts about 45 minutes. The whole trip takes two-and-a-half hours door to door. If you are planning to rent a car, rates are substantially cheaper in Boston, but be sure to book your ferry reservation early – prime summer dates evaporate early in the new year. If you won’t need a car, check out passengeronly ferries from Manhattan (nefastferry.com), Rhode Island (vineyardfastferry.com) and the Cape (hylinecruises.com).

an old projector). It is also perhaps more aesthetically pristine thanks to a draconian building code that prohibits any deviations from the Historic District Commission palette of less than a dozen muted shades, including Nantucket blue, Nantucket red and Nantucket gray. As on the Vineyard, life is beach-centric. Nobadeer draws the college kids, Cisco and Surfside the surfers, Dionis and Jetties the families. The longer car ferry ride (two hours from Hyannis) translates to even fewer crowds, and shorter distances on the island itself mean everywhere is accessible by bike. There’s real magic in that, provided you don’t plan on staying too long. Tradition is part of the fabric of both islands but Nantucket has its own special events, chief among

them Nantucket Race Week, which culminates in the Opera House Regatta and a legendary beach party. It’s paradise for sailors and they flock here from all over. Summer ends on a high note with a massive sandcastle competition on Jetties Beach. No spluttering gloops of wet sand here but rather breathtaking skyscrapers and creative installations that vie with replicas of Big Ben and The White House. One thing’s for sure, they’ve elevated beach life to an art form here and across the Sound. aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin to Boston daily, and from Shannon to Boston on Tues, Thurs and Sat.

Boats moored in Nantucket Harbor

DON’T MIss campground cottages, Oak Bluﬀs Tour street after street of fairytale gingerbread houses painted all the colours of the rainbow. Come August 15, 2012, they will be decorated with thousands of paper lanterns for Grand

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Illumination, a one-night annual celebration with street parties and a patriotic singalong concert. The agricultural Fair, Tisbury Junk food, carnival rides, pig races and hard-fought

competitions for baking, gardening, ﬂower arranging, pets and crafts. Mid-August. Fireworks on July 4th as well as to mark the end of summer (August 17 2012), are on a scale that deﬁes description.

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December 2011/January 2012

Cool hunting in Gran Canaria Back in the 1990s, a teenaged Kate Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Dowd visited Gran Canaria and took home sunburn and a broken heart. Now, older and wiser, she revisits (long-term boyfriend in tow) and uncovers a very diďŹ&#x20AC;erent holiday experience.

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he first time I holidayed in Gran Canaria, I was 17. I stayed in Playa del Inglés with nine friends, where we rarely left the 100-metre radius that was our lessthan-salubrious apartment complex, and the Irish Centre (a shopping centre filled with late-night bars called The Shamrock or similar and restaurants serving lasagne and chips). I fell head over heels, drank a lot of Sex on the Beach and arrived home heart-broken and striped with sunburn. Returning now, ten years later, with all the sophistication that comes with a high-flying career in lifestyle journalism, a long-term boyfriend in tow, and staying in (the much posher) Maspalomas, I was expecting something different. This time I was in search of the Cool Canaries. First up, digs. Though just ten minutes from the centre of Maspalomas, in the south of Gran Canaria, the quietly cool Sheraton Salobre Golf & Spa Resort (from €160 per room, with breakfast; 0034 928 943 000; sheratonsalobre. com) feels peacefully isolated, surrounded by rocky, arid hills with barely a house in sight. It was

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not the landscape I was expecting ... the colour scheme was all off. Like most, I imagined golden sand and azure sea (coupled perhaps with tatty beach shops and cheesy bars), certainly not this wildness. And it was a nice surprise. The perfect metaphor for what we were to discover throughout Gran Canaria – that its reputation applies only to small pockets, and mere minutes away you find exquisite natural beauty and well-preserved traditional culture. The north is verdant and picturesque – think banana plantation villages on oceanside hills – while the centre is all red volcanic soil, dry and dramatic. The island has a rich history and a strong local culture, very much apart from mainland Spain. A continent in miniature, as the tourist board says. Isolated relaxation ensued at the Sheraton, a sort of laze-eat-drinkswim-laugh luxury combo, lounging on Balinese beds, mesmerised by views, eating excellent food at Cameleón, and sipping cocktails in the chic Lounge 230. The temptation to stay here, luxuriating in this hilltop haven was strong, but the call to cool was stronger. A chance find in the local newspaper

Clockwise from left, Kate, with boyfriend Brian Price; mountainbiking in the Canarian hills; three kilometres of golden sand at Playa de las Canteras; Auditorio Alfredo Kraus.

informed us that Godskitchen (godskitchen.com) was taking travelling rave-fest Boombox to the capital, Las Palmas, in the North. I could almost smell the hipsters from my sun lounger. A scenic, coastal, hour-and-a-half bus journey away from Maspalomas, Las Palmas has the feel of a far-flung colonial outpost; an interesting mishmash of architecture, reflecting the various stages of its colonial history. The prettiest and most historic area is Vegueta, where the city was founded in the 15th century – a romantic warren of sandstone cobbled, winding streets with little courtyards, gothic archways and unassuming fountains. The venerable Santa Ana Cathedral is an imposing presence, standing just in front of the Museo Casa de Colón (0034 928 312 373; casadecolon.com) said to be the house Columbus stayed in before setting out on The Voyage. It’s now a museum dedicated to him and worth a look, if only for the exotic internal courtyard featuring two large parrots (mating, during our visit, so we kept our distance). And it wasn’t just the parrots – there’s romance in the air in Vegueta. Young couples canoodled in quiet doorways, elderly ones walked

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Following her successful solo exhibition at the Consulate General of Ireland in New York, Roisin has been invited to exhibit at the prestigious VISARTS GALLERY in Maryland, from 9 Dec 2011 to 9 Jan 2012. This will be officially opened on 21 Dec by H.E. Michael Collins, Ambassador of Ireland to the United States. The exhibition will be on display at the IRISH AMERICAN HERITAGE MUSEUM in Albany New York during March and April 2012. Please contact info@ArtistoftheLight.com.

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48Hrs in LAs PALMAs Whether you’re staying in a resort or somewhere very rural, factoring in a night or two in the capital is a great way to soak up some real culture. stAY At Hotel Cristina, fivestar design-led luxury, on Playa de las Canteras. A recent refurb has it looking all fresh and sleek, but be sure to ask for one of the newer rooms (from €93 for a seaview double; 0034 928 268 050; hotelcristinalaspalmas.com). GrAZe At the Mercato de Vegueta Playa de hand in hand. Myself and Himself Triana (the area surrounding Calle Maspalomas (0034 928 334 129; mercadovegueta. felt we owed it to the place to steal a de Triana – get your high street manages to feel com), a sort of market-cum-food hall – spacious and choose from tapas bars, cafés or the quick snog in a little square, but were fix here), to find only fast food sheltered at the makings of your own picnic. disturbed when a young gentleman options and tapas chains open for same time. PLAY At Museo elder (Parque with two large white rats clinging business before 9pm, and a growing Santa Catalina, 0034 828 011 828; to his dreadlocks crossed our paths. disharmony in the ranks (I got museoelder.org), the science and This is what I mean by colonial cranky). After sitting out the wait, technology museum – definitely not outpost. Las Palmas seems full to aided by beer and nibbles outside just for children, this is a very hands the brim with eccentrics, giving it an the eccentrically historic Hotel on, super-fun approach to learning. exciting – if sometimes uneasy – air. Madrid (Plaza Cairasco 4, 0034 I challenge any adult not to learn A trip across town brought us to 928 360 664; elhotelmadrid.com) – something (or a lot). what is widely regarded as one of the Franco stayed here in 1936, as did strOLL tHrOuGH Parque best city beaches in the world. Playa many early stars of the silver screen, Doramas, then have a nose around de las Canteras is where tourism though I wouldn’t imagine they get Hotel santa Catalina (0034 928 started on Gran Canaria, and too many these days – we made COMING 243 040; hotelsantacatalina. stretches for over three kilometres our way across the street SOON com), the city’s most of golden sand and a natural coral to La Butaca (0034 928 Keep your eyes peeled for the historic luxury hotel – barrier that shelters the shore from 431 383), a minimalist, past guests include Atlantic currents, keeping the contemporary and, yes, opening of Bohemia Suites & Spa Winston Churchill, waters as placid as a swimming cool little place serving (set for March 2012) in Playa del Ingles Agatha Christie and pool. Sitting on the beach, watching modern Mediterranean – a beachfront hotel that promises “a Gregory Peck. trendy locals having barbecue cuisine, which we sophisticated lifestyle oasis for adults, eAt At restaurante birthday parties and elderly gents had heard was much surrounded by the volcanic beauty La Marinera (Paseo Las playing chess in the sand, we loved by Canarian of Gran Canaria”. Sounds just the Canteras, 1, 0034 928 got a gorgeous snapshot of what gastronomes. The food ticket and looks unbelievably 468 802) – much loved Canarian life is really like, and how was fresh and delicious hip and de luxe; by locals for its position completely detached it is from what and the atmosphere designhotels.com. practically in the sea and for most resort tourists see. buzzing with hip locals and its delicious fresh fish. Rumbling stomachs at 7pm a few in-the-know tourists. tAKe in A sHOw at the prompted a search for food, resulting Worth the wait. architecturally stunning Auditorio in a frustrating wander through With full tanks, we made our Alfredo Kraus (Playa de las Canteras, 0034 928 491 770; auditorioalfredokraus.com) home to the Philharmonic Orchestra as well as the ballet of Gran Canaria and it hosts the Canary islands Music Festival 1 Walk the famous Dunas seaside village of Puerto de town of Gáldar back as far (January 10-18, 2012). Maspalomas. These could just Mogan – known as the best as the 7th century (0034 928 HAVe DrinKs on the terrace of the as easily be in the Namibian micro-climate in the world and 895 746; cuevapintada.org) taberna Las ranas (Plaza Hurtado desert, though on Little Venice (obviously due 4 Seek out the iglesia de Mendoza; 0034 928 368 203), a significantly smaller scale, to its canals) – for old world de san Juan Bautista, a where the cool kids go before hitting so this can be attempted holiday charm 3 Explore La startling Gaudi-esque the tiles. without the risk of mirage Cueva Pintada (painted caves) church (it was built by his GO FOr Carnaval de Las Palmas (that’s actually the sea) and the surrounding dwelling protégé) in the unassuming (February 3-21, 2012); lpacarnaval.com. 2 Visit the pretty western sites which chart life in the rural town of Aracus.

FOur GreAt (But tOtALLY unCOOL) tHinGs tO DO

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December 2011/January 2012

’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has ﬂourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ...

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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the ﬁnest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables

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Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Dublin

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

Only Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am as seen below

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm

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way to what we thought to be a fairground site, high up, on the edge of the city and found, in Boombox, everything I love in a music event – great lineup, graphic outdoor stage, no queues, chilledout crowd, amazing views over the city. We made some friends, who took us to an after party. Friends for life. The plan: get the last bus back to Maspalomas at 1am. The reality: have the time of our lives and opt instead for a €80 taxi journey home at 5am. We didn’t bother to say goodbye to our new friends. We knew they’d understand. Another (very different) day trip took us to the northern municipality of Valleseco, 80 per cent of which is nature reserve, and where the local community is making a real push to encourage green tourism. Strangely, Valleseco translates as “dry valley”, but this area gets more rainfall than any other area on the island – so it’s really green and agricultural. The village shops hold treasures such as

Surﬁng on the island of Fuerteventura; the Vallesco valley, which, strangely, translates as “dry valley”.

locally produced goat’s cheese, cider and hand-woven reed baskets (we saw an elderly gent, clearly a master at the craft, whip one up in no time on the street). It’s a great starting point for well-mapped hiking trails and Laguna de Valleseco proved the perfect spot for a rewarding picnic lunch. Our second accommodation stop heralded a full-on retro holiday experience at the (aptly named) Seaside Palm Beach (from €254 per room, half-board; 0034 928 721 032; hotel-palm-beach.com), smack in the middle of Maspalomas. Currently the only Design Hotel in the Canary Islands, it was entirely re-designed in

GettinG ArOunD BY Bus Blue, turquoise or green Global (0034 902 381 110; globalsu.net) buses provide the island with a network of routes, although the service to many rural areas is not as comprehensive. In Las Palmas, yellow municipal buses provide an eﬃcient citywide service. BY CAr Car rental is the best way to see all of the island’s little gems. Choose from all the usual companies at the airport, or go for Cicar in Las Palmas (0034 928 27 72 13; cicar.com) which has cars from around €35 per day. BY BiCYCLe If you dare, take to two wheels – Cycle Gran Canaria in Maspalomas has a range of options, including tours and suggested routes, for mountain or city biking (0034 928 769 508; cyclegrancanaria.com).

tHree PLACes tO stAY (OFF tHe BeAten trACK)

La Hacienda del Buen suceso, left, 20 minutes outside Las Palmas, is a restored 16th century banana plantation with all the lowkey luxuries of a boutique hotel. A favourite with those seeking solitude (from €135 per room; 0034 928 622 945; haciendabuensuceso.com).

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December 2011/January 2012

Casa de Los Musicos, in the countryside outside Maspalomas. The home of renowned classical conductor Justus Frantz, it’s a favourite with musical and arty types (from €195 per room, half board; 0034 928 142 218; ﬁncajustusfrantz.com).

Finca Casa de La Virgen, two self-catering country houses – one sleeps six, the other sleeps four – overlooking a breathtaking ravine in the beautiful Parque rural de Doramas (€629 for the smaller house; €860 for the larger; weekly; 0034 630 074 613; casadelavirgen).

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Tindaya Volcano

ADVentures On FuerteVenturA The second largest of the Canary Islands (Tenerife is the biggest), Fuerteventura has historically welcomed fewer visitors than Gran Canaria, and so had not enjoyed the same levels of prosperity. Perhaps that’s why it has retained more of its original character. However, since being made a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 2009, the right sort of tourism has been growing steadily. Good planning laws have restricted resort sprawl and discerning lovers of the outdoors are visiting in their droves to experience the barren expanse of long-dead volcanoes and unspoiled beaches. stAY At Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahia real (from €167 per night, for two people B&B, 0034 902 201 360; atlantisbahiareal.com), the island’s plushest digs, on the beach in Corralejo. The views out to sea and of nearby islands are unsurpassed, rooms are very comfortable (if a little fussy, decor-wise) and the fanciest restaurant, La Capula de Carles Gaig, gets its name from the two-star Michelin chef who stands at the helm. It’s a good base from which to visit the Corralejo nature reserve and indeed, the whole island, which can be covered by car in a day. If you prefer lower key, higher authenticity accommodation, Casa Princess Arminda (from €35 per night, for two people B&B, 0034 928 878 979; princessarminda.com), in the 600-year old village of Betancuria, is ﬁlled with rural charm. Owned by the same family since the 1400s, the

estate has been lovingly restored to offer rustic rooms and delicious local food. DiVe in at one of over 150 beautiful beaches, and don’t be tempted to stick to the one nearest your hotel. Venturing just a little bit outside the resorts will reward you with hidden coves, romantic lagoons and miles of deserted golden sand. sotavento is probably the most impressive, a massive expanse of beach on the south-east coast, popular with kiteboarders and windsurfers, but head to the Jandía peninsula for a less gusty time of it. Visit el Cotillo, a sleepy village on the western coast, little touched by tourism and famed for its pristine lagoons; ecomuseo de la Alcogida (0034 928 175 434) in Tefia, a museum depicting the hidden charms of rural Canarian life; tindaya Volcano, where ancient feet carvings can still be seen at the summit, put there to ward off evil spirits; Los Molinos interpretation Centre (0034 928 164 275) in Tiscamanita, to see traditional barley windmills in action; Mirador Morro Velosa, a viewing point designed by César Manrique to take advantage of panoramic vistas – there’s a restaurant, so settle in and enjoy the scenery. eAt goat, for the full Fuerte experience, or stick to goat’s cheese if you’re less adventurous. Casa isaitas (double room from €84; 0034 928 161 402; casaisaitas.com), a guesthouse in Pájara that does excellent Canarian tapas using organic local ingredients – good for veggies, a group not well catered for on the island; Bodeguita el Andaluz (0034 676 705 878) in Correlejo serves excellently flavoured meat and fish, with a great selection of wines; Los Caracolitos (0034 928 174 242), just south of Caleta de Fuste is popular with locals, and known to serve some of the island’s best fish. For more information, see fuerteventuraturismo.com.

2002 with a decidedly modern take on 1970s glamour. Rooms are deluxe and fun (if a little trippy), featuring sleek bathrooms (not so much as a sniff of avocado suite) and balconies facing the sea, the pool, the dunes or the palm grove. At times I felt like we were at that holiday camp in Dirty Dancing, but the key is to embrace what’s on offer at Palm Beach. Don’t take yourself too seriously and you’ll see that, because of the excellent service, delicious food and sense of fun with which everything is undertaken, it’s actually very cool indeed. The nearby Playa de Maspalomas is one of the nicest big beaches on the island. It backs onto the dunes, so feels spacious and sheltered at the same time. Incidentally, the nudist part of the beach is the nicest and where you’re most likely to find a spot all to yourself (if you dare). The beach stretches all the way to Playa del Inglés and can also take you back to Lopesan Boulevard El Faro, a newly developed commercial and restaurant area. Though clean, modern and with great ocean views, this area feels a little like an outlet village – however, Gran Italia does serves perfect Italian food, for a steal. So, what did I discover on my search for the Cool Canaries? Well, that it’s pretty darned cool, actually. Not in that Russian oligarch, high-design nightclub, Michelin restaurant, Ibiza way (which is all a bit bleh, anyway, if you ask me). But in that friendly people, delicious food, constant sunshine, beautiful scenery, loads-of-chic-little-gems-ifyou-know-where-to-look way. And that, to me, is infinitely cooler For more information, see grancanaria.com

Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin to Las Palmas, Tues, Thurs and Sat, from Cork to Las Palmas on Sun; and from Dublin to Fuerteventura, Tues and Sat.

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The Beginner’s Guide toAerobatics

If you haven’t already heard of aerobatics, you soon will. Emily Hourican gets up, up and away.

erobatics. Sounds a bit like a new kind of workout, something involving a leotard and lots of leaping. In fact, this is the term for the kind of showy, ooh-inspiring tricks – loop-the-loop, upside down flying, dives, figures of eight, spins – that appear at air shows; all the difficult, graceful, balletic moves that keep spectators mesmerised as aerobatics pilots turn and twist their craft to make seemingly impossible shapes in the sky. Already a huge draw in the US, where 18-20 million people turn out to airshows every year, aerobatics is increasingly popular around the rest of the world. At a recent show in the Dominican Republic, two-and-a-half million people attended over three days. Many of those would have been particularly keen to see Rob Holland, a man who readily folds his six-foot-plus frame into the cockpit of a singleseater and performs and competes at the highest level. He flies for Team USA, and at the recent World Aerobatic Championships in Italy, Team USA placed 3rd overall, with Rob winning gold in the fourminute freestyle competition. He headlines at 25-odd airshows a year, travelling so often around the world that, when I meet him in Dublin airport, he’s only been home for six days in three months. So does he consider himself a daredevil? “Not at all,” he replies courteously. “I don’t like driving

fast, I don’t like motorcycles. I don’t do crazy stuff at all.” Anyone who has seen him zoom towards the ground at tremendous speed, only to turn his plane’s nose up towards safety at what seems to be the very last second, might beg to disagree, but Rob is adamant. “I don’t consider myself a stunt pilot. To me, a stunt is something where you’re not quite sure what the results are going to be. I know what the results are going to be. Part of the attraction is the discipline, making it as safe as you can. Airshows are about making it look dangerous,” he smiles. “It’s showmanship.” The most dangerous part of his job, he insists, is getting from airshow to airshow. “I have to deal with weather, airspace, dehydration, there’s so much going on. At a show, you’re very focused. The environment stays the same and you’re only up there for a few

Irish aerobatics pilot Eddie Goggins ﬂies low over the Aviva Stadium in Dublin.

minutes.” For transatlantic trips, his plane is carefully taken apart, boxed up and stowed on board a much larger aircraft, while Rob himself travels as a regular customer. Aer Lingus currently sponsors him, flying him for free between

Five to plane-spot loop-the-loop Flying the plane through a complete vertical circle – easy to do, but hard to achieve perfect roundness, the loop-the-loop is popular with spectators. tail slide Where the aircraft goes backwards. snap rolls Performed by stalling one wing of the aircraft. The most diﬃcult manoeuvre to control consistently, especially outside snap rolls. rolling circles In its most basic form, the plane is rolled four times while completing a 360-degree loop. ruades From the French term, means to tumble the plane head-over-heels.

December 2011/January 2012

| 69

Flying

Above, Team USA champ, Rob Holland at the controls – “I enjoy all ﬂying, but, if I can get upside down, I’m really at home,” and, left, Rob in mid manoeuvre.

appearances; it’s the kind of support that makes a huge difference in what is a stunningly expensive sport. The motto painted across Rob’s single-seater is “Fly it like you stole it”, a measure of the exuberant attitude he demonstrates towards his job. “I enjoy all flying but, if I can get upside down, I’m really at home,” he laughs. However, he is also capable of the rigorous perfection necessary for competition flying. There is a sharp distinction between competitions and airshows. “In a competition there is far less showmanship. It’s about manoeuvring the aircraft within a very regimented set of guidelines;

everything has to be perfect and precise.” So what can one expect to see at a Rob Holland performance when he has the freedom to express fully his aerobatic abilities? “I like people to see stuff they’ve never seen before. I’ll fly in loops, sideways, backwards, vertically; anything to really wow an audience.” Rather than attracting just the slightly trainspotter-y (or should that be planespotter-y?)-type of young men you might expect, airshows are generally family days out, with face painting and bouncy castles as standard at most, as well as aircraft displays and a chance for kids to chat to pilots.

dates For your 2012 diary … april 18–21 Aero Friedrichshafen – Germany June 30 to July 1 RAF Waddington International Airshow – Lincolnshire, UK July 21–22 Sunderland Airshow; Sunderland, UK

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July 22 The Bray Air Spectacular – Bray, Co Wicklow, Ireland september 8–9 Northern Ireland Diamond Jubilee International Airshow – Portrush, Coleraine,

December 2011/January 2012

Northern Ireland. september 29–30 Malta International Airshow – Malta. october Fort Worth Alliance Air Show – Texas, US. november 30 to december 2 Al Ain Aerobatic Show – UAE

For many of us, the Red Bull Air Races series will be the closest we’ve come to the phenomenon so far, but Alan Dwyer, editor of Flying in Ireland, describes aerobatics as an increasingly integral part of local town festivals. “They started to grow in popularity, but with the recession that has slowed down; it’s a very expensive sport so there has been some cut back.” However, the good news is that Ireland may well shortly field its own aerobatics team, at which stage the country is certain to go nuts for all things aerobatic and airplaneoriented. Irish involvement has been limited up to now, due to a lack of equipment and pilots prepared to compete. But Eddie Goggins, David Bruton and Patrick Williams are preparing to field a team of three at the world championships in the summer of 2013. “By then, we will have two Sbach 342s under group ownership,” says Eddie Goggins, “and will have flown in enough qualifiers to compete in the world championships. There’s a lot of logistics and expense in getting a team together, and sponsorship is very hard in recent times, but we’ll get there.” World championships are held every two years and, in 2008, in the US, Eddie came third, something he modestly ascribes to luck as well as ability. With a three-man team, Ireland will be competing against countries that can field teams of seven or even eight pilots, where only the top three scores are counted. Clearly, this puts huge pressure on the three pilots, but it is pressure they’re ready for. “The very windy conditions in Ireland are good preparation,” Goggins laughs. So keep your eyes on the skies. You just might see something astounding.

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BEING THERE

48HRS IN

East London

From hipster cool to locally produced food and buzzing markets, Amanda Cochrane discovers that London’s East End is where it’s at.

Young Turks, Isaac McHale and James Lowe team up with Dubliner John Twomey at The Ten Bells pop-up, above, and The Wapping Project, below.

72 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY PERS-ANDERS JORGENSEN

he next big reality show rumoured to hit our screens is The Only Way is Dalston, the coolest place in London according to Italian Vogue. True, the self-conscious trendies boasting Morrissey quiffs, ankle-biting skinny jeans and sockless loafers saunter around in droves, but East London also boasts bustling markets – Columbia Road and Broadway markets are personal favourites – and cutting-edge boutiques, fun drinking holes and fab restaurants serving up a wonderful mélange of Turkish, Vietnamese and traditional British fare. EAT AND DRINK AT ... Make sure to book in advance to dine at the edgy Rochelle Canteen, located in the playground of a former Victorian school (0044 207 729 5677; arnoldandhenderson.com). Devised by Margot Henderson, wife of the brilliant Fergus Henderson of the St John, and partner Melanie Arnold, it’s no surprise that this hidden gem features nose to tail dining as well as a daily vegetarian option. As the name suggests, Brawn (0044 207 729 5692; brawn.co), runner-up local restaurant in Time Out’s 2011 Eating Out Guide, is not for wimps. From pigs trotters to smoked sprats, all washed down with a glass or two of bio-dynamic natural wine,

it’s a fun spot to check out East London’s cool hipsters. It’s worth the schlep to The Wapping Project (0044 207 680 2080; thewappingproject.com), a restaurant-come-art gallery in an old hydraulic power station. The in-house butchery and carefully sourced ingredients mean the food is excellent but the beautifully restored interiors alone make the journey worthwhile. Dubliner John Twomey has teamed up with Young Turks Isaac McHale and James Lowe to open a pop-up restaurant on the first floor of The Ten Bells pub in Spitalfields (0044 7530 492 986). Open for three months until mid January, typical dishes will

include shoulder of silka deer, grouse faggots and raw rib of beef with oyster. The set menu of four courses plus snacks and a cocktail costs £39. Yummy sounding British/Swedish fusion at fantastic value across the road from the eclectic shopping delights of Spitalﬁelds Market, we think it’s worth checking out. Hackney trendies ﬂock to A Little of What You Fancy (0044 207 275 0060; alittleofwhat youfancy.info) tucked away at the Dalston end of the Kingsland Road. Featuring seasonal British dishes and locally brewed beer by Kernel in Southwark, it’s an oasis of comfort food in an area better known for Turkish and Vietnamese cuisine.

From left, the Fox and Anchor Pub a short trot from Smithﬁelds Meat Market and The Boundary, the hotel of choice for design fans.

FEEL GROOVY AT …. Heady with the perfume of ﬂowers, the barks of the stall holders and the tunes of a bevvy of brilliant buskers, Columbia Road’s Flower Market is the place for a Sunday morning stroll. As well as the fragrant selection of ﬂowers and plants, fashionistas and interiors lovers will love Fred Bare, Future Vintage (am still lusting after a pair of Miu Miu shoes) and Wah Wah. For the best hangover cure, squeeze into the

popular Printers and Stationers (0044 207 729 9496; printersandstationers. co.uk) for a cracking Bloody Mary and a damn fine ham, cheese and gherkin sandwich. Just around the corner from Columbia Road, you’ll find the Geffrye Museum (0044 207 739 9893; geffrye-museum.org.uk) with its inspiring display of textiles, paintings and decorative arts from 1600s to the present day. Until

LAY YOUR WEARY HEAD AT …. For designer style, head For a touch of cool to Sir Terence Conran’s Britannia – think Miss The Boundary (0044 207 Havisham meets Vivienne 729 1051; theboundary.co. Westwood – check into the uk), located in an old Zetter Townhouse in Victorian warehouse in Clerkenwell (00 44 207 324 Shoreditch. With 30 rooms 4567; thezettertownhouse. inspired by a host of com). Featuring 13 brilliantly creatives, including Eileen eclectic rooms, it’s a stroll Gray, Mies van der Rohe away from the markets of and Andrée Putman and Spitalfields and the delights two great restaurants, it is of the British Museum. It well placed for exploring has a fabulously louche the area’s cool boutiques cocktail bar, modern bistro and happening nightspots. style food from Bruno Rooms from £220. Loubet’s kitchen and free Wi-Fi. Rooms from £205. Rubbing shoulders with the kebab shops and mini Nearby and just a pig’s markets of Bethnal Green, trotter throw from the former Town Hall Smithfields Meat Market, (0044 207 871 0460; the Fox & Anchor Pub townhallhotel.com) was last (0044 207 250 1300; year transformed into yet foxandanchor.com) serves another designer hotel. It is up fine ale and locally a little distance from the produced food. And if you East End’s main attractions, drink one too many, book but its Viajante restaurant into one of the six rooms has delightful fusion dishes. and get up for a restorative, Rooms from £145. hair-of-the-dog breakfast.

January 8, all the eleven period rooms are decorated in authentic festive style, evoking the rich traditions of Christmas past. Blazing a trail for contemporary theatre and new writing, as well as classic drama, comedy and music, the Arcola Theatre in Dalston (0044 207 503 1646; arcolatheatre.com) is one of London’s most exciting fringe theatres. From Dalston hop on a bus to Victoria Park and head

for Hub (0044 207 923 9354; hubshop.co.uk) – a bit like Whistles but an independent – in Broadway Market, for a great selection of clothes, shoes and accessories of labels such as Sessun, Acne, Hudson and Danish cult brand Won Hundred.

Above from left, inspiring interiors at the Geﬀrye Museum, head to the Arcola for cutting-edge theatre or to the Hub for the slickest labels.

Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin, Shannon, Cork and Belfast to London Heathrow daily.

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

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Bellagio

the soul of Italy in the heart of Terenure

92 Terenure Road North, Dublin 6W, Ireland, Tel: +353 (0)1 492 7625, www.bellagiorestaurant.ie

Situated in the delightful village of Terenure in south Dublin, architect-designed Bellagio Italian Restaurant serves authentic cuisine from Italy. Fabio Cirello, one of the owners, is the former Director of Restaurants at Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel, so you can be assured of excellent service.To complement the daily specials, signature dishes include calamari and prawn gratin, seafood ravioli and pappardelle with ﬁllet of beef and wild mushroom. Bellagio also serves some of the best pizzas in town and you can sample cured meat and cheeses from all over Italy.

BEL & BELLUCCI ITALIAN RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA 22-30 Merrion Road , Ballsbridge Dublin WEB: www.bellucci.ie RESERVATIONS: 01- 668 9422 Opening hours: Open 7 days: 12 Midday - 11pm ■

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 If you fancy a browse and quiet cup of coffee, HUGENDUBEL’s English Bookstore and coffee shop is a great place to spend some time. Truly, the calmest café in town; the only noise is the coffee machine as everyone is reading! (Steinweg 12; hugendubel.de)

 The CHINESE GARDEN is an oasis of calm in a walled garden of the Bethmann Park at the bottom of Bergerstrasse (great for shopping locally in Bornheim) – it’s hard to believe one is in the city. Even the rubbish bins have Chinese calligraphy.

An Insider’s Guide to

FRANKFURT  The KLEINMARKTHALLE – wonderful for fresh exotic vegetables, spices and sweets. Take the time to savour a refreshing glass of German wine from Rollander Hof on the balcony upstairs. (Hasengasse 7; kleinmarkthalle.com)

It may be the fifinancial nancial capital of Europe, but Frankfurt has much more to offer the visitor than commerce. Irishwoman-turned-native Elizabeth Walsh reveals her favourite spots. Photographs by Kate Miller.  The spirit of Christmas starts early in Frankfurt with the CHRISTMAS MARKET at the Roemer. Try out the Feuerzangenbowle (fire tongue punch) as an alternative to Glühwein and enjoy Christmas carol concerts by local school groups. For a personalised souvenir or great gift for your tree back home, order your name in sugar piping on a traditional gingerbread loveheart and collect it the next day for approx €5.

 ECB and the BULL & BEAR outside the Chamber of Commerce – symbols of Frankfurt as Europe’s ﬁnancial capital.

 Right by the Eschersheimer Tower, the luxurious FLEMINGS DELUXE HOTEL FRANKFURT-CITY houses the city centre’s only publicly accessible paternoster lift. Fine dining and cocktails with a view of the skyline are available in the rooftop restaurant. Rooms from €220 per night. (0049 694 272 320; ﬂemings-hotels.com)

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

| 75

INSIDER’S GUIDE

 The beautifully renovated ALTE OPER, the opera house at the end of the Fressgasse, has a great cultural programme. (alteoper.de)

 Catch the exhibition of Icelandic artist Erró’s portraits and landscapes at the SCHIRN KUNSTHALLE gallery in Roemer. (ends January 8; 0049 692 998 820; schirn.de)

 My favourite see and be seen lunchtime spot with healthy food and fancy, non-alcoholic (good for the middle of the day!) cocktails is WALDEN. For partygoers, there is a disco upstairs on Friday and Saturday nights. (Kleiner Hirschgraben 7; walden-frankfurt.com)

 In Frankfurt’s latest and greatest shopping centre on the Zeil (a pedestrian zone with the highest turnover in Germany), MYZEIL has everything from a Lego ﬂagship store to gourmet sushi, high street and designer brands, and a play centre for little visitors. (myzeil.de)

 This tiny street – BRUECKENSTRASSE in Sachsenhausen – is home to boutiques showcasing avant-garde designer wear. Check out VENEZ-Y-VOIR for trendy shoes you won’t get at home.

MORE ABOUT ELIZABETH Elizabeth Walsh Walsh, originally from Dublin, has lived in Frankfurt for over 20 years. She is a former president of the Frankfurt Ski Club (fscev.org (fscev.org) where she met her Irish husband who shares her passion for skiing. She thinks Frankfurt is a great city to live in and raise a family. “Despite its big name, Frankfurt is actually a fabulous small city with an international population and great leisure and relaxation opportunities, no more than 20 bicycle minutes away.” Her friend Kate Miller, Miller who photographed her wedding, also did the photos for this article and enjoys taking portraits of her little boy, Conor (katemillerphoto.com). (katemillerphoto.com

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DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

 Steeped in tradition, cosy and bijou inside, CAFÉ WACKER allows you to pick up a packet of freshly ground, roasted special or sit down with a creamy latte macchiato and a thick wedge of Küchen. The scent of coﬀee and chocolate is overpowering. (Mittelweg 47; wackerskaﬀee.de)

Aer Lingus ﬂies from Dublin to Frankfurt daily.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS ©FRANKFURT TOURIST+CONGRESS BOARD

 DAUTH SCHNEIDER is one of Old Sachsenhausen’s many traditional Apfelwein (apple wine) pubs (the benches are shiny from years of being sat on) with a delicious menu of local specialities prepared by chef and proprietor Paul O’Sullivan from Co Waterford. (Neuer Wall 5-7; 0049 6961 3533; dauthschneider.de)

DALKEY CASTLE & HERITAGE CENTRE

LIVE THEATRE PERFORMANCE DAILY! MEDIEVAL AND TUDOR CHARACTERS IN SEASON See memorable characters go about their daily lives and bring history to life by bringing life to history in a Theatre Performance as part of the guided tour (see website for details). www.dalkeycastle.com Opening Times: Open all year round 6 days per week. Closed on Tuesdays.

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The Rylston fully refurbished Fulham Pub “Local, Good Food, Good Quality, Good Value”

The Pub as most Irish know is synonymous with warm hospitality, reputation for great quality food and worth a visit. The Rylston is a friendly, neighbourhood Gastro Pub on Fulham’s main Lillie Road, close to West Brompton tube and only a short walk from Fulham Broadway & Chelsea FC. Our concept is simple “Local, good food, good quality, good value”. The Rylston is lively and upbeat but in a chilled out, kick back with a pint and stay for a while kind of way. It’s clean and crisp, with a gallery of contemporary photography on the walls and huge decked garden to the rear, offering endless hours of delightful summer al fresco drinking and dining. A wood fired oven is put to good use by The Rylston’s chef, his handmade pizzas a legendary favourite from the Modern European menu. The Rylston has your every need pretty well covered. Our warm and friendly staff will ensure a ‘Céad míle fáilte romhat’ when you visit so make sure and call in to say hello. Rath De’ Ort

197 Lillie Road, London, SW6 7LW Tel: 0207 381 0910. E-Mail: info@therylston.com

19/10/2011 15:36

Airspace

It’s 75 years since Aer Lingus’s first flight took to the air. To celebrate, author Joseph O’Connor was asked to write a commemorative piece. Here, we publish chapters three, four and five, along with their author’s introduction.

III Beautiful in Irish, the names of the birds

PhOTOgrAPh bY PAT L rYAn

Nach álainn iad, ainmneacha na néan i nGaeilge, Cruidín: the Kingfisher. Dreoilín: the Wren. Words of mellifluous music and colour. The Blackbird: An Lon Dubh. The Eagle: An Iolar. Gabhlán Alpach: the Alpine Swift. Rí Rua: the Chaffinch. Druid: the Starling. The Night Heron: Corr Oíche. The Kestrel: Pocaire Gaoithe. The Golden Plover: Feadóg Buí. The Cream-coloured Courser: Rásaí Bánbhuí

hen I was asked to write a text that would commemorate the 75th anniversary of Aer Lingus’s first flight, I began to think about Ireland in May 1936, the month in which that inaugural journey took place. The country of my grandparents’ youth was a poor one, only recently founded, facing immense challenges, yet its cultural traditions had survived and there was optimism that this small new democracy might one day be a place of freedoms. In our old literature, in our ballads and songs, in our poetry and legends, the imagery of flight appeared with striking frequency; a touching testament to the hopes of an island people who, as Yeats said, “have gone about the world like wind”. It struck me as remarkable that a nation which not very long previously had been engaged in violent conflict and Civil War had progressed so quickly to establishing an airline. It also seemed to me that the

story of Aer Lingus closely tracked the story of independent Ireland, sometimes in counterpoint, sometimes in parallel. We have long been a migrant people – we still are, today – and every flight is an anthology, a collection of stories, some happy, some poignant, all our own. So, rather than write a fact-laden article studded with statistics and the names of aircraft, I asked if I could approach the commemorative piece as a series of verselyrics that might attempt to record the unique and indefinable aura that Irish people feel Aer Lingus has. “Airspace” was the result. I wrote it between Christmas 2010 and January of 2011, a month in which severe snow cut us off from the world for a while. In a small way, that separation reminded me of the longing we feel for other lands, other dreams, of the connections that Aer Lingus has existed to serve. I hope you enjoy reading the piece.

Word-horde. Our perch Down all the long centuries When noun and song and air Were soared with. We glided our syllables, Like children trading streamers – Spideog, the Robin, Spíoróg, the Sparrowhawk, Buíog, the Yellowhammer, Fuiseog, the Skylark. And vowels were a flock of high-flown delights Saying ‘Rise up your song. Aspire to the heights.’

Joseph O’Connor

December 2011/January 2012

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Joseph o’connor

IV First flight to America – 28 April, 1958 Years pass like seabirds Migrating the clouds Into old exultation, For doesn’t time fly? Until north in the night, A flight ekes a way, To Gander, Newfoundland Territory of the whale, Over wild black seas where the great liner perished, Its Belfast turrets and ice-cracked hull, Sunk in the ocean like memories Of a song, Its half-forgotten similes. Where Lagan streams sing lullabies There blows a lily fair. The twilight gleam is in her eyes The night is on her hair Control-towers purr. Radar sweeps the night, Blipping the circumference Of history and loss, Making for the harbour To which multitudes flew From the latitudes of hunger and want. So many sailed below you, The lost, silent millions, Who bore your name Or the names of your neighbours, Voyaging far from a hungry land To Brooklyn, Philadelphia, Gros-Isle, New Orleans. Quebec, Saint Lawrence, Baton Rouge, Massachusetts, Mobile, Alabama and Galveston, Te xas, A clod of Galway earth in their pockets. There on the cricket’s singing stone, She stirs the bogwood fire, And hums in soft, sweet undertones The song of heart’s desire Perhaps they looked up From the decks of starvation, Face-whipped, stung By Atlantic gale, Facing like figureheads into the sleet, And glimpsed in the starlight A ghost from the future: Sea-eagle of metal Breasting through the night, A tricolour crest on its tail-fin.

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December 2011/January 2012

Green for lost homelands, White for the clouds, Gold for a wedding ring Pawned for the passage To newfound meadows Or the Five Point slum Or the Hell’s Kitchen sweatshop, Or the groves of Dakota, Or the coalfields of Pennsylvania, Or Saint Paul, Minnesota, Or the halls of the White House in Washington. O Come to the land Where we will be happy Don’t be afraid Of the storm or the sea For it’s when we get over We soon shall discover That place is the homeland Of Sweet Liberty.

The Lockheed Constellation Heavily turns. Idlewild below you, Gleaming like a promise Of all that is possible, All we have been, And the better, braver story that is yet before us If only we have courage to see the horizon And find its parallel in our hearts. Saint Patrick, keep us safe, Saint Bridget, break our fall, Saint Kevin of the lakes And Saint Ronan, guard us all. And fly me to the moon, Saint Francis of Sinatra, Up here, we are close to the stars of Old Glory. We’ll be waltzing down Broadway tonight.

V Johnny, I hardly knew you And ten thousand times, in the decades to come, As your infant daughter grew, As your son held your hand, As you fought and made up, As you aged into acceptances, You thanked the God of Angels, That you took that flight home, On the night you could barely afford to.

Irish Coffee at Shannon. Your people home from Australia. Exotics descended from the vaults of Heaven, Wild colonial boys. Your features in their faces, But with different accents, Currencies, slangs you did not understand, And suntans beyond imagining.

A wedding. A honeymoon. A break with the kids. The Munster final. A pilgrimage to Lourdes. A trip to see grandchildren in Luton or Leeds. Or in Boston, or Queens, New York.

The long black shadow of a 747 Darkens the waters of Galway Bay. Wild swans and moorhens Ascending in formation From lines dreamed out by William Yeats Who spread the grey wing on every tide And rhymed a people into flight. Blackbirds clatter From a thicket of ferns By the broken wall Near the farmyard gates. Every flight a storybook. A collection of dramas. Anthology of airspace. The Christmas back at home. When your sister in Glasgow had the baby and needed you. When your father got sick. When your mother grew old. When you fancied the girl who was living overseas (But flew back home, tail between your knees), The stag, the hen, the match, the meeting, The flight to catch was always waiting. The Camden Town bedsit, flatmates gone out, Alone with your plastic bag of duty-free, And your lips still raw From mouths you never kissed, And the memory of songs from home. When you went away for work, having no other choice, When you missed your neighbours’ ironies, Your brother’s laughing voice, And came home that Easter Saturday, Though you couldn’t afford it, And that night you fell in love.

You looked at one another Across the crowded bar. Horslips on the jukebox Singing The Man Who Built America Or King of the Fairies Or the High Irish Reel, Or Johnny, I Hardly Knew You. You looked, and you knew. It was simple as the rain. As the parting of clouds, As the lifting of a fogbank, And a jumbo-jet gave a roar in your heart, And your future came in to land.

The drama of flying Whirred propellers in the heart. You’d board the flight early To soak it all in. Like starring in a film, The glamour of Departures. The beef or the salmon? Who’d come to meet you? A week of the sights and the battles with currency, Jetlag and laughter in tourist cafés. Embraces at the airport to say goodbye. You’d try to smile. You’d want to cry. The sky looks down. The sea reflects. The airspace divides. But it also connects. The shadow of an aircraft. It changed your life. Revealed the heart of home where you truly belong. What is an airline? Sheet music, only. It is always the traveller who sings the song.

The shadow of an aircraft. It changed your life. Revealed the heart of home where you truly belong. December 2011/January 2012

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www.celticnote.com

OUT NOW

Horslips - Live At The Waterfront

Secret Garden - Winter Poem

Various Artists - A St贸r Mo Chro铆

Various Artists - Ar Staitse

Frank Kelly - The Best Of Frank Kelly

www.celticnote.com

InFlight

Welcome Aboard.......................... 84 Aer Lingus News ............................86 Entertainment .................................88 Wellbeing ..........................................94 Route Maps ......................................95

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Borgias (pictured), turn to page 88.

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

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WelcomeAboard aer lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during takeoff and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight. Your seat must be in the upright position during take-off and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht, iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais. Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD at ✔ any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital

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devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices PermitteD in ● flight but not During taxi/take-off/initial climb/

aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).

December 2011/January 2012

Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode selected, Laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse,

keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

the cabin crew will do everything possible to ensure that you enjoy your flight, so please don’t hesitate to ask them for assistance or advice Tá an fhoireann cábáin anseo le cinntiú go mbaineann tú taitneamh as do thuras, mar sin ná bíodh leisce ort aon chabhair nó comhairle a iarraidh orthu.

Food and bar service

seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

news, music and movies On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine. We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant flight. thank you for choosing to fly with aer lingus.

nuacht, ceol agus scannáin Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo. Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.

smoking In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-smoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time.

TobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL ✔ ceAdAIThe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh; glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA ATá ● ceAdAIThe I rITh nA heITILTe, Ach nAch

bhFuIL ceAdAIThe Le LInn don eITLeán bheITh AG GLuAIseAchT Ar TALAmh/AG éIrí de ThALAmh/ AG TAbhAIrT FAoIn dreAPAdh TosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar ThuIrLInGT/AG TuIrLInGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD , seinnteoir Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP 3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí

ríomhaire (m.s. Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (m.s. paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL cosc ✘ IomLán orThu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann minicíocht raidió

d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (m.s. luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Mini-disk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu(m.sCentrino)aúsáídlelinnnaheitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

December 2011/January 2012

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AerLingusNews “Best Airline” for Aer Lingus

Aer Lingus pictured receiving their award with Eamonn Holmes.

For the second year in a row, Aer Lingus is celebrating retaining the award for “Best Airline to Europe ex. Belfast” at the Northern Ireland Travel and Tourism Awards 2011, staged at the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa, in October. This brings to nine the number of awards Aer Lingus has won during the past year, including “Best Short-haul Airline” in the Irish Travel Trade Awards 2011 and fifth overall in “Best Economy Airline” category by Guardian and Observer readers and first of the European-based carriers in this category. Aer Lingus Director of Communications, Declan Kearney said: “We are delighted that our service to Europe has been once again recognised as the best of the best. We’ve been in Belfast for almost four years now, and our presence continues to go from strength to strength. Travellers here are enjoying our low fares and great service, and of course the variety of routes on offer.”

AER LINGUS ANNOUNCES EXTRA FLIGHTS TO LONDON GATWICK AIRPORT As part of its new winter schedule, Aer Lingus has announced that it will run extra flights between Dublin and London Gatwick. From October 30, the airline will provide six flights per day between the two airports, an increase from the four flights on offer last winter. The new 06.40 flight will be the first departure by any airline from Dublin to London Gatwick and in turn, the first morning departure from Gatwick at 06.50 will also be the first by any airline from London Gatwick to Dublin. An extra evening flight in both directions will add more choice for business commuters and those travelling at peak times. There will also be a lunchtime flight at 12.55 in addition to the existing 10.50 and 14.50 departures. The new schedule increases the number of Aer Lingus flights between Dublin and London to 18 per day, a greater frequency than any other airline and increases Aer Lingus’s capacity for passengers on this service by more than 50 per cent.

samsung galaxy tab comes to aer lingus lounge

This December, Aer Lingus introduces the new Samsung Galaxy Tab to our Dublin and London Heathrow Gold Circle Lounges. There will be nine tablets in each lounge for passengers to enjoy. As we already provide free Wi-Fi in both locations, our Gold Circle, Business Class and Flex Fare passengers will be able to surf the net, check on emails or confirm their flight information via the Aer Lingus app that is pre-loaded

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on the tab. Units will be available on request from the lounge reception desk. The Aer Lingus Gold Circle lounge is open to: Business Class passengers, Gold Circle Members and passengers holding Flex Fare tickets. A lounge pass can be purchased by Aer Lingus passengers on a flight by flight basis for €25 at the reception desk in the lounge or in the Travel Essentials section online at aerlingus.com.

December 2011/January 2012

hotel deals Thinking of taking a break this winter? Look no fur ther than aerlingus.com for all your flights and hotel needs. Whether it’s a city break to New York, a relaxing stay by the beach for some winter sun or skiing in the Alps, we have hotels to suit all budgets, from five-star deluxe to budget accommodation. With more than 140,000 hotels worldwide, you will surely find your perfect hotel or flight + hotel package. Log onto aerlingus.com and click on our Hotels or Flights + Hotels icons to browse for the best offers.

Sometimes it’s just easier with a car – so whatever you need to see or do this winter, visiting friends or family, getting to the best ski runs quickly or heading for some winter sun, think Hertz for what will always be a better journey. And for this winter, we have locked in some great deals across Europe, the US and Canada on people carriers to fit all the family from our fun class, such as the Audi A1 and Fiat 500, to our Prestige collection, all with the assurance of driving the best cars with unrivalled service and care both during and after your rental. To book these great car-hire rates and to include the award winning “NeverLost” GPS system, simply log onto aerlingus.com and click on the Hertz icon. Alternatively, call our 24hr reservation line on +353 1 813 3844. If you are already travelling and would like to get a great discount on car hire simply call to the Hertz desk on arrival and show your boarding card. INSURANCE

We’ve got your Travel Insurance all wrapped up! Whether travelling to Europe or beyond, it’s essential you’re protected in case the unexpected happens. We make it easy to arrange the travel insurance you and your family need for your holiday.

You can simply include it as an option to your online ﬂight booking. Travelling regularly? Our Annual multi-trip policy may suit you better. Terms and conditions apply.

Check it out next time you visit www.aerlingus.com

inFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Movies

The Help

FLIGHTS TO THE USA

From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

THE HELP

conTAGion

THE GUARD

The #1 New York Times bestseller by Kathryn Stockett comes to vivid life through the powerful performances of a phenomenal ensemble cast. Led by Emma Stone and Viola Davis, The Help is an inspirational, courageous and empowering story about very diﬀerent, extraordinary women in the 1960s southern states of America who build an unlikely friendship around a secret writing project – one that breaks society’s rules and puts them all at risk. The Help is a timeless, universal and triumphant story about the ability to create change.

Contagion follows the rapid progress of a lethal airborne virus that kills within days. As the fast-moving epidemic grows, the worldwide medical community races to ﬁnd a cure and control the panic that spreads faster than the virus itself. At the same time, ordinary people struggle to survive in a society coming apart. This fascinating thriller follows several interacting plotlines, with no single protagonist, over the course of several weeks from the initial outbreak and attempts to contain it, to panic and decay of social order, and, ﬁnally, to the introduction of a vaccine.

The Guard is a comedy-thriller starring Brendan Gleeson as an unorthodox Irish policeman who joins forces with a straitlaced FBI agent, played by Don Cheadle, to take on an international drugsmuggling gang. Irish film, The Guard, was a box-office smash with a weekend gross of over €0.5 million, knocking Bridesmaids from the coveted No 1 position. This is a fantastic result for an Irish film comparable to the success of Michael Collins and In Bruges.

Drama (PG 13) 146 minutes

STARS Viola Davis, Emma Stone, Sissy Spacek DiREcToR Tate Taylor

Action/ Sci-Fi/ Thriller (PG 13) 106 minutes

STARS Kate Winslet, Marion Cotillard, Matt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow DiREcToR Steven Soderbergh

Comedy/ Thriller (R) 96 minutes

The Guard

STARS Brendan Gleeson, Don Cheadle, Liam Cunningham, Mark Strong DiREcToR John Michael McDonagh

More Movies On Demand:

Contagion

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December 2011/January 2012

 HARRy PoTTER 7b Emma Watson  HoRRibLE boSSES Jennifer Aniston  FinAL DESTinATion 5 Nicholas D’ Agosto  RiSE oF THE PLAnET oF THE APES James Franco  THE conSPiRAToR James McAvoy  EvERyTHinG mUST Go Will Ferrell  PAGE onE: inSiDE THE nEw yoRk TimES  THE cHAnGE-UP

Ryan Reynolds  FLy PAPER Patrick Dempsey  THE PERFEcT GAmE Jansen Panettiere  SHELTER Julianne Moore  SPy kiDS 4 Jessica Alba  Scooby Doo Frank Wekler  Toy SToRy 3 Tom Hanks  mickEy’S mAGicAL cHRiSTmAS Jodi Benson

Movies

Crazy Stupid Love

FLIGHTS FROM THE USA

From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orland to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.

cRAZy STUPiD LovE

GLEE 3D: CONCERT MOVIE

COWBOY AND ALIENS

Steve Carell and Ryan Gosling lead an all-star cast in Crazy, Stupid, Love. Fortysomething straight-laced Cal Weaver is living the suburban dream. When he learns that his wife has cheated on him and wants a divorce, his “perfect” life quickly unravels. Cal is taken on as the wingman and protégé to the handsome Jacob Palmer and his eyes are opened to many new ventures. Despite Cal’s makeover, the one thing that can’t be made over is his heart.

Starring 14 members of the Emmy and Golden Globe Award-winning television show’s cast and shot live during the summer concerts, the movie will capture the unique concert experience along with special moments involving the characters themselves. GLEE is the multi-generational phenomenon TV show that has inspired millions to embrace their inner-Gleek and this movie allows Glee fans to experience the characters, music and magic in a whole new way, via the immersive magic of a motion picture theatrical event.

Daniel Craig and Harrison Ford star in this action-packed, sci-fi-western from the director of Iron Man. A stranger (Craig) stumbles into the desert town of Absolution with no memory of his past and a mysterious, futuristic shackle around his wrist. With the help of mysterious beauty Ella (Wilde) and the iron-fisted Colonel Dolarhyde (Ford), he finds himself leading an unlikely posse of cowboys, outlaws and Apache warriors to fight a common enemy from beyond this world in an epic showdown for survival.

Comedy (PG 13) 115 minutes

STARS Steve Carell, Ryan Gosling, Julianne Moore, Emma Stone DiREcToR Glenn Ficarra, John Requa

Documentary (PG) 85 minutes

STARS Lea Michele, Amber Riley, Chris Colfer, Kevin McHale DiREcToR Kevin Tancharoen

Action, Sci-Fi,Thriller (PG 13) 118 minutes

Cowboys and Aliens

STARS Harrison Ford, Daniel Craig, Olivia Wilde DiREcToR Jon Favreau

More Movies On Demand:  SEnSATion Domhnall Gleeson  LARRy cRownE Tom Hanks  ATTAck THE bLock Jodie Whittaker  AnoTHER EARTH Brit Marling  cHASinG mADoFF Bernie Madoﬀ  TRESPASS Nicole Kidman  A bETTER LiFE Demián Bichir  HELEn Ashley Judd

 bART GoT A Room William H. Macy  STAy cooL Winona Ryder  TERRi John C. Reilly  A cinDERELLA SToRy: oncE UPon A SonG Lucy Hale  winniE THE PooH John Cleese  THE PRincESS AnD THE FRoG Anika Noni Rose  UP Edward Asner

Glee 3D

December 2011/January 2012

| 89

Television

Entourage

ON DEMAND

On Demand TV allows you to control your TV content and choose from the very latest comedy and drama TV. New comEDy HiGHLiGHTS include modern Family, 30 Rock, bored To Death, Eastbound and Down, Family Guy and nurse Jackie. Classic Comedy takes in Gavin and Stacey, Father Ted, cheers and Sex and The city. DRAmA features the compelling The crimson and the white Petal and two episodes of in Treatment starring Golden Globe award-winner Gabriel Byrne in the acclaimed HBO series. Also available is an episode of the new series of Hawaii Five-o and fast-paced drama nciS LA. It’s time to fasten your seat belts for the eighth season of Entourage! The HBO Emmy and Golden Globe award-winning hit

Blue Bloods

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December 2011/January 2012

comedy is executive produced by Mark Wahlberg. Available are the first eight episodes of Season 8. Game of Thrones is another HBO triumph and available On-Demand is the final eight episodes (Season 1). Game of Thrones was described by Newsday as “The Best-Written TV Show of the Year”. Don’t miss the final six episodes of the Emmy-winning mini-series The kennedys. Chronicling the lives of the famous US family it features a stellar cast including Greg Kinner, Katie Holmes, Barry Pepper and Tom Wilkinson. Available On-Demand is eight episodes from Season 1 of The borgias, this new series was created and produced by renowned Irish director Neil Jordan to much critical acclaim. This first-class mix of Drama TV also takes in the final five episodes from Season 1 of blue bloods starring Tom Selleck. TEEnS onboard can enjoy Glee, Hannah montana and Jonas. kids can look forward to ben 10: Ultimate Alien, Phineas and Ferb, The Amazing world of Gumball and be buzz.

Game of Thrones

LiFESTyLE AnD mUSic HiGHLiGHTS include Top Gear USA, HSbc Golﬁng world, chic intl, Later with Jools Holland, E! Special on katy Perry, Lady Gaga Presents the monster ball Tour, Amy winehouse other voices Special, Rick Stein’s Spain, Jamie’s best Ever christmas and world business Special Edition. DocUmEnTARy HiGHLiGHTS take in Frozen Planet, inside the Actors Studio, megafactories, Evolutions: The walking whale and a biography on kurt cobain.

inFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Radio ON DEMAND

barry Dunne Barry Dunne plays three hours of Dublin’s Best Music Mix to kick oﬀ your workday on 98FM Monday-Friday from 10am-1pm. You can hear anything from chart toppers like Jessie J and Bruno Mars to classics like U2 and Bananarama.

98Fm’s classic Hits On 98FM’s Classic Hits with Darragh O’Dea, weeknights from 7pm to 9pm, you will hear everything from David Bowie, Eric Clapton, ELO, Howard Jones, Hall and Oates, Simple Minds, U2, Simply Red, Toto, Bruce Springsteen, Joe Jackson, Lionel Ritchie and loads more!

Fitzpatrick Hotels

AER Guitar

clear for Take-oﬀ

Non-Stop 80s

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With 2 hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC.

Marty Miller is on air weekdays from 2pm on Dublin’s Radio Nova 100FM playing seriously addictive music and having a lot of CRAIC along the way. Tune into AER Guitar – Guitarbased music, while you’re in the air.

You’re cleared for take-oﬀ with Pat Courtenay from Radio Nova 100FM. Tune into Pat Courtenay every morning 6 until 10am Monday to Friday. Then put down your refreshment tray for Nova Breakfast Reheated every Saturday from 8 until 10am.

Dee Woods from Dublin’s Radio Nova 100FM is on a journey of Non-Stop 80s. Remember the decade that gave us stilettos, shoulder pads and leg warmers? Dee Woods takes a nostalgic look back at the good stuﬀ from the 80s: the rock! Let Dee take you back to the good old days with classics from icons like David Bowie, Steely Dan and Phil Collins on Non-Stop 80s.

cooper’s collection Steven Cooper on 98FM brings you the biggest dance floor fillers every Saturday night with six hours of remixed chart toppers and the biggest dance-floor fillers. Steven Cooper presents his weekday show on 98FM from 1pm to 4pm, Monday to Friday, and Coopers Club Collection on Saturday nights from 6pm to Midnight.

Lyric Fm classics

The big 10 The Big 10 on 98FM features ten songs with a connection. Tune into this countdown every Sunday morning at 10am as we count down The Big 10. Each week a diﬀerent set of songs feature, all with a diﬀerent connection such as the biggest Irish acts, the biggest comebacks in music and the biggest female artists of all time.

in Tempo Join Paul Herriott for the usual broad blend of classical music, including full works and his CD of the Week. In Tempo features classical music by Bach, Shostakovich, Smetana, Dvorak and more. The featured CD stars German soprano Juliane Banse and our Coﬀee Concert highlights the RTE NSO with soloist Gavan Ring and conductor Gavin Maloney.

RTÉ lyric fm is the only recording label for classical music in Ireland and showcases a wealth of Irish musical talent. Our aim is to promote classical music, Irish musicians and composers at home and abroad by creating a commercially available, quality record of how much incredible music is being made in this country.

blue of the night

Jazz Alley Blue of the Night connects diﬀerent musical landscapes and is presented by Carl Corcoran from Monday to Thursday on RTE lyric fm (96-99fm). There’s a world of sounds on Blue of the Night – variety, scope and joy in the endless richness of centuries of music make the Blue of the Night the best late-night radio in the land.

Take a stroll down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme of RTE lyric fm (96-99fm). This featured show is a special tribute to George Shearing, the Britishborn pianist who died on February 14th 2011. Donald Helme presents an hour of his music in tribute to one of the alltime jazz greats.

December 2011/January 2012

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inFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Radio ON DEMAND

céilí House

Documentary on one

South winds blows

Céilí House is Irish traditional music and song from some of the country’s ﬁnest performers. This show comes from the Conservatory of Music and Drama in Rathmines, Dublin featuring Traditional Music Ensemble and tutors.

The multi awardwinning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world, telling stories about real life in Ireland and abroad.

Singer, musician, broadcaster and ﬁlm-maker Philip King brings his unique and wideranging musical knowledge to the airwaves from the picturesque setting of the Dingle peninsula.

The Rolling wave

Risin’ Time

Ronan collins Show

The Rolling Wave is a prize-winning RTÉ Radio documentary by Peter Browne telling the amazing story of Andreas Rogge, who made his way from East Germany and a term of political imprisonment to become a top class Uilleann pipe maker.

Shay Byrne’s Risin’ Time eases RTÉ Radio 1 listeners into the morning with an easy mix of classic and contemporary music, all delivered in Shay’s own unique style.

Ronan’s daily programme The Ronan Collins Show airs from 12-1pm weekdays and continues to be one of the biggest radio shows in the country. So for a break from all that news and information throughout the day, check out Ronan Collins on RTÉ Radio 1 at midday where you’ll ﬁnd a feast of music and laughs.

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December 2011/January 2012

Fully charged

SPin Hits with nikki Hayes

The big Handbag

Fully Charged with Ryan and Tracy on SPIN 1038 can be heard weekday mornings from 06.45 to 09.45 and is the best way to start your day! Tune in for 3 hours packed full of music, hot celebrity interviews and ingenious games with brilliant prizes.

SPIN Hits with Nikki Hayes is all about the music! Nikki plays 10 SPIN hits in a row featuring the biggest hits on the planet. Watch online with SPIN TV and keep in touch on facebook.com/spin1038 or at spin1038.com.

The Big Handbag is presented by Becky Miller of SPIN 1038 and is stuﬀed full of amazing tunes to get you in the mood for your Saturday night. This is an awesome mix of 90s dance-ﬂoor classics, hits you will be hearing in the clubs and future hits we love and think are going to be MASSIVE!

SPin balance

SPin cinema

SPin Hits

Balance is presented by Paul Webb of SPIN South West and is the premier home-grown dance show in Ireland. Known for playing the hottest music before it hits the other clubs, Webb is an internationally recognised DJ.

SPIN Cinema presented by Peter Murphy and airs on SPIN South West every Sunday from 8:45am. This show premieres the best in new movie releases, the latest DVDs and hot entertainment gossip every week. Throw in a couple of soundtracks from your favourite movies, sprinkle it with popcorn and this movie show will make your radio sound 3D!

SPIN South West plays the most music and 10 SPIN hits in a row is what we do best! Every Monday to Friday, Eoghain is joined by the SPIN team as they travel the South West with great giveaways.

Green on Red is presented by Ashley Keating of “The Frank and Walters” fame and is aired every Sunday from 7pm to 10pm, on Cork’s Number 1 radio station for Hit Music, RedFM. Green on Red features the very best of Irish music, signed and unsigned. The show is the soundtrack to what’s up and coming on the Irish music scene. Green on Red scooped “Best Weekly Show” at the 2003 PPI National Radio Awards and continues to shine the spotlight on Irish talent. You can listen live on www.redfm.ie or on our iPhone App which can be downloaded from iTunes free of charge.

moncrieff Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff

Phantom Rock

Andy Preston

Phantom Rock is 60 minutes of great songs that will make you want to turn the volume up to 11! With the best in rock from Ireland and around the world, Phantom Rock is presented by Michelle Doherty of Phantom 105.2 – the home of rock in Dublin! Michelle presents Finest Worksongs, MonFri from 10.30am to 2.30 pm on Phantom 105.2

FM104 is Dublin’s Hit Music Station, and we play nothing but hits! Presented by FM104’s Andy Preston, we’ve packed in the hottest artists and songs into this 60 minute show.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE IRISH TIMES

Green on Red

copeland classic Hits Copeland Classic Hits is brought to you courtesy of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailored suits. From Brioni, Armani, Canali, Versace to Hugo Boss and more, visit www. louiscopeland.com.

Larry Gogan

Rick o’Shea

Legendary broadcaster Larry Gogan brings the best tunes to RTÉ 2fm. From one-of-a-kind features and interviews to the famous “Just a Minute Quiz”, it’s not diﬃcult to see how legendary broadcaster Larry Gogan has become a familiar and much-loved voice in households across Ireland. Larry spun the ﬁrst-ever disc on RTÉ Radio 2 (as it was then known) back in 1979.

Rick O’Shea presents his weekday radio show from 2 to 4.30pm on RTÉ 2fm. Along with Cormac Battle, his trusty provider of Pointless Pieces of Research of the day, Rick and Cormac play the best of contemporary and classic tunes with lively audience interaction. You can tweet Rick at @rickoshea

Dan Hegarty Dan Hegarty is a familiar name to listeners of late night radio with his show on RTE 2fm. The show mixes a wide spectrum of acts, including Toro y Moi, the Rolling Stones, Tinariwen and far beyond.

Phil cawley’s classic 9

The Lighthouse

Test your musical knowledge with Phil Cawley as he plays nine tracks from the same year. With some clues to help you along, see how quickly you can guess the year that these chart-toppers hit the airwaves!

Musician and DJ Dave Couse presents an eclectic music show every Sunday evening on Today FM featuring the best alternative pop classics. This show takes a closer look at the best music from New York City.

December 2011/January 2012

| 93

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: ● Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout. ● Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin. ● Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel. ● Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight. ● Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. ● Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. ● And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Reducing the eﬀects of jet-lag To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight. Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey. ● Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coﬀee the day before you travel. ● When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone. ● Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.

Carry-on baggage

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs. If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@ aerlingus.com Telephone: ● (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun ● (UK) 0871 718 20 21 ● (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 ● (USA) 516 622 4222

Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below. AER LINGUS

55cm (22ins)

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

Maximum weight

43cm (17ins)

10kg (22 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

40cm (16ins)

28cm (11ins)

20cm (8ins)

Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos, overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store bag g age in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: ● Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. ● Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of oﬀensive language) is a serious matter. ● As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment. ● As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport

94 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the ﬂight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger. The consumption

inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible

for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. ● We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Vilnius Hamburg

DUBLIN

Berlin

Amsterdam

Warsaw

Dusseldorf

Brussels Paris

Stuttgart

Munich Zurich

Geneva Lyon

Krakow

Prague

Frankfurt

Vienna

Budapest

Milan

LINATE

Milan

MALPENSA

Bucharest

Nice

Rome

Barcelona Madrid Lisbon Alicante Faro

Malaga

Aberdeen Glasgow

Blackpool Manchester

DUBLIN Birmingham

Fuerteventura Lanzarote

Tenerife

Edinburgh

Cardiﬀ

Bristol

London (Heathrow) London (Gatwick)

Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Hungary Budapest

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Belgium Brussels

France Lyon Nice Paris

Italy Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Rome

Poland Krakow Warsaw

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart

Lithuania Vilnius

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Morocco Agadir (eﬀective

Romania Bucharest

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

December 24)

Spain Alicante Barcelona Madrid Malaga Switzerland Geneva Zurich

United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Manchester United Kingdom

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

Aberdeen Blackpool Bristol Cardiﬀ Edinburgh Glasgow

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

| 95

INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin SHANNON

Birmingham CORK

Bristol

Amsterdam

London Heathrow LONDON GATWICK Paris Munich Geneva

Rome

Barcelona

Alicante Malaga

Las Palmas Lanzarote

Tenerife

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife

FROM CORK United Kingdom London Heathrow

Italy Rome

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Paris

Spain Alicante Malaga

FROM GATWICK Spain Barcelona Malaga Switzerland Geneva (eﬀective December 17)

Germany Munich

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Italy Rome

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow

United Kingdom

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Manchester

Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock) Shannon Spain Malaga

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow United Kingdom

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

96 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Boston

Chicago New York

Washington

Shannon

Dublin

Madrid Orlando

To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

FROM MADRID

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston terminates

USA Washington DC

January 3 (until March) New York terminates January 2 (until March)

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

| 97

INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

Connecting Europe, the USA & Canada Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg

Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis

Salt Lake City Denver

Kansas City

Sacramento San Francisco

Las Vegas

Oakland

CHICAGO

Omaha

Detroit

Indianapolis Cincinnati Saint Louis Louisville

Long Beach

Los Angeles San Diego

Phoenix

Houston

Portland ME BOSTON

NEW YORK

Columbus Baltimore WASHINGTON Washington (National) (Dulles) Lexington Richmond Raleigh - Durham Charlotte Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin

Syracuse Rochester

Pittsburgh Burlington

Cleveland

Nashville Burbank

Toronto Buﬀalo

Jacksonville

New Orleans Tampa Fort Myers

Miami

Orlando West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: When you arrive from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs Then all you need to do is drop oﬀ your bags at the Aer Lingus transfer desk before hopping onto the AirTrain to JetBlue’s Terminal Five for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs. Turn left towards the Aer Lingus transfer desk, where you drop oﬀ your bags and then take a short walk to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs before rechecking your bags at the United Airlines Recheck Desk (which is to the right of customs). A nearby escalator takes you to the ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes, to Terminal Five and your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point,

then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. ■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

98 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

Aberdeen Edinburgh

Glasgow

Dublin

Manchester

Shannon

Birmingham London (Heathrow)

Cardiﬀ

Bristol

London (Gatwick)

Berlin

Amsterdam

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels Krakow

Frankfurt Paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Venice

Milan (Linate)

Rome

Barcelona Madrid Lisbon Faro

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus                   

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan (Linate)

     

Alicante Malaga

Munich Paris Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann     

Naples

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiﬀ Edinburgh Glasgow

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus (eﬀective until January 3)  London (Heathrow)  Manchester ■  Paris

■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                        

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buﬀalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

         

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue             

Baltimore Buﬀalo Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix

           

Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA                        

Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh

       

Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento San Diego San Francisco Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada     

Calvary Edmonton Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

| 99

FlightConnections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting ﬂight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting ﬂight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting ﬂight, and your baggage has been tagged to your ﬁnal destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

CONNECTING AT HEATHROW AIRPORT Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

100 |

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

special offer for cara readers

Discover the amazing story and save 20% on the normal ticket price.

Michelin Bib Gourmand

History comes to life at this brilliant new museum, housed in one of Dublin’s finest Georgian mansions. Admission normally costs €5. Present this voucher on arrival and you pay just €4. the little museum of dublin 15 st stephen’s green

Cloghan Castle Cloghan Castle is a fully restored 12th Century Norman Castle, it is an exclusive, self catering venue which is ideal for that fairy tale wedding reception, birthday party, family reunion or special event in the rolling hills near Loughrea, Co. Galway in the West of Ireland. The Banquet hall can seat up to 120 guests, luxurious drawing room ideal for drinks reception or a relaxing afternoon by the open fire. The castle has full central heating.

RENT A CASTLE Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Web: www.cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group

Flights, camera, action! Introducing the very latest in in-flight entertainment systems; starring over 200 hours of blockbuster movies, TV shows, music videos and the latest interactive games on your very own personal screen. Not only do we have a state-of-the-art entertainment system, but also the most modern fleet of aircraft flying to the USA from Ireland. And once there we can even smooth your onward journey to over 40 US destinations with our partners jetBlue and United Airlines. There is no better way to make time fly.

Great Care. Great Fare.

Britta Sunglasses by Ted Baker These women’s sunglasses from Ted Baker are the essential accessory and feature a zip-pull temple, inspired by Ted Baker’s apparel collection. A must-have for the fashion conscious this season. Oﬀering full UVA and UVB protection, these sunglasses come complete with travel case, cleaning cloth and a 1 year guarantee.

15-Year Anniversary Eyeshadow Collection

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Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items and reduced prices onboard during December/January

It’s Urban Decay’s party, and to celebrate we’re launching 15 new eyeshadow shades and only in this kit! With just the right balance of neutrals and brights, darks and lights, the 15-Year Anniversary Palette is both versatile and the UD junkie’s ultimate collection. Inside, the shadow tray pulls out to reveal a compartment that can be used to stash jewellery or whatever else you’re hiding.

SShkopypi ng

Sekonda Sports Chronograph Men’s Watch Large men’s sports watch with ivory cream dial, 1 second stopwatch timing up to one hour and 24 hour readout. This watch features a leather strap and is water resistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sekonda Women’s 2 Tone Analogue Dress Watch Featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and stone set case. Water resistant to 50m, i.e. swimproof. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

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Polarmagic

PHOTOGRAPH BY CÉCILE BURBAN

TRIP OF A LIFETIME STRAP

Travel is second nature to Irish wildlife cinematographer Sophie Darlington, but one trip in particular stands out.

rowing up in Ireland with a Kiwi Aer Lingus pilot as step-father meant travelling was part of life – from a day trip to Paris to buy a kitchen sink (becoming the only family I know who really did travel with one) to holidays in exotic (read unpopular locations with stand-by space on the plane for eight) locations. As a wildlife cinematographer, travel continues to be a major part of life. This piece could so easily be about trips not a trip. I could, for example, write about the nine hard weeks spent crossing 5,000 kilometres of Mongolia in a Russian jeep. Our crew (three vegetarian women) existed solely on noodles and learnt that in Mongolia sausage apparently is a vegetable and vodka is mandatory. But I got the chance, last February, to go on a trip somewhere totally different, Canada. Even my ten-year-old son, wildlife immune after years of lions and cheetahs, was full of excitement; polar bears apparently are cool. Our crew set off from a dismal London to a slightly breezier Winnipeg where we collected over a 104 |

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quarter ton of camera equipment and flew on to a positively chilly Churchill located on the western edge of Hudson Bay. Here we had a chance to test drive some of our “extreme” clothing before catching the evening train to Wapusk National Park some 65 kilometres to the south. A few hours later, the train ground to a halt at an obscure flag stop in the pitch black. After dismounting into -38˚C, our several pairs of trousers no longer seemed like a joke. Snow-tracked vehicles took us to Watchee Lodge, an ex-naval base in the heart of Ursus maritimus country. More hostel than hotel, with a scant saucepan of hot water per day to wash in, it had paper-thin walls and slept four to a dorm. The French group next door were positively sonorous and sleep was elusive. Twenty of us jammed together, all in Manitoba for the same reason: the opportunity to observe and, in our case, film, polar bear mothers who had spent the winter nursing their

Top, wildlife cinematographer Sophie Darlington in action, and, above, polar bear cub and mum.

newborn cubs and who were now emerging for spring. Each morning we’d squash into trucks having downed just one cherished cup of coffee (no portaloos in the field). We became accustomed to sitting sweating and fully layered up, ready to burst outside into -50˚C if a bear was spotted. We had some gorgeous sightings but wind or lack of light scuppered our chances of filming. There was one day though where everything went right. Our guide Morris, frost bitten and sporting an epic walrus moustache, radioed from his snowmobile that he’d tracked down a mum with two cubs. They were sheltering from the elements in some spruce and were almost invisible, totally caked in snow. We froze waiting for some action and as the light started to soften and the wind eased off, they began to stir. At first we caught just a glimpse of an eye or ear and then one of the cubs emerged and shook, turning from snowball to the most appealing creature I’ve ever seen. I knew they’d be awe-inspiring but had no idea how emotional they’d make me feel. Never mind fingers were so cold that my fingers I couldn’t feel the controls on my camera to turn it off, it was an extraordinary off, moment and everyone was in awe. My trip of a lifetime wasn’t capturing some new, mind-boggling behaviour, it was simply the privilege of observing an animal behaving naturally in its own landscape that tragically, down to us, may not be around much longer. As if this wasn’t enough, that night was our director’s last and so we ventured outside and see if the Northern Lights would do their thing. I can’t remember a time when I hadn’t wanted to see the aurora borealis and our luck was in, the sky was clear with low effervescent bands of glowing light. No wonder the local Cree Indians thought there was magic afoot, certainly on this trip we had witnessed it. sophiedarlington.com.

O2-6956A-23 O2 Money Cara Mag.indd 1

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