Cara April/May 2014

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CARA Magazine April/May 2014

April/May 2014

Irish traditional musicians Actress Ruth McGill

Boxing clever



Ibiza Flanders

A class act

Actress Ruth McGill on treading the boards

San Francisco

Capital culture

Writer Donal Ryan hearts Limerick


The Great War remembered


Flanders 100 years on


Hipster hooray

Lesser spotted Toronto

Peter McDonald



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Contents APRIL/MAY 2014


Formentera – it rocks

Check in 04 ARRIVALS We welcome newbies passing through Dublin Airport’s T2 07 CHECK IN Our round-up of what, and who, is moving and shaking this season 18 ON MY TRAVELS Sport takes Eoin Cadogan home and away 20 SMART TRAVELLER Adrian McGennis on the joys of San Francisco, plus the best munches in Munich 22 JUST THE BUSINESS David Robbins on London’s private members’ clubs 24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The likes of SO Fine Art Editions’ Catherine O’Riordan 26 NEW SHOOTS AT CHELSEA Lucy White navigates this year’s flower show 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican hearts Taschen’s new city guides, and chats to author Oona Frawley 30 WHAT’S COOKING? This year’s Ballymaloe LitFest has Frances Power licking her lips 32 SURF’S UP Make waves with must-have surfing clobber, says Sive O’Brien 34 THE WEEKENDER Frances Power has a whale of a time at the Cliff House Hotel

36 Acting up - Ruth McGillll


36 LABOURS OF LOVE Irish actress Ruth McGill talks to Daragh Reddin about the Bard and treading the boards 42 ON THE BEAT Siobhán Long meets the leading lights of trad music in Ireland 54 SHANNON SOUL Author Donal Ryan waxes lyrical about Limerick, City of Culture 70 BALEARICS WITH BABY Beauty editor Liz Dwyer swaps raves for relaxation in Ibiza and Formentera 82 IN FLANDERS FIELDS On the centenary of the Great War, writer Alan Monaghan sees the sites

94 Vivid San Francisco



Good looks

116 48 HOURS IN NEWCASTLE Pól Ó Conghaile finds an unexpected mix of culture, shopping and nightlife 119 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO DUBLIN Katie “Living Dinners” Sanderson has great taste 122 UP, UP AND AWAY Ben Webb flies through 100 years of aviation history 124 SPOTLIGHT Eating, drinking and making merry in Belfast

94 THE BIG CITY Karlin Lillington feasts on San Francisco

128 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Relax with the latest films, tunes and news

106 TORONTO UNCOVERED Jeanne Sutton and music promoter Susan O’Grady get under the skin of Canada’s metropolis

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Why California blew the teenage mind of actor/ filmmaker Peter McDonald

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer

Peter McDonald is an actor, screenwriter

and director. His film and television work as an actor includes I Went Down, When Brendan Met Trudy, Paths to Freedom, Mayday, Your Bad Self, Sel Moone Boy and most recently The Stag – which he co-wrote with John Butler. He also wrote and directed the Oscar-nominated short wr film fil Pentecost. He is a regular on the London stage and is appearing in Conor McPherson’s st The Weir at Wyndhams Theatre in the West End until April 19. For this issue of Cara, see page 152, as he fondly remembers his first trip to America back in the early 1980s. Am

Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Maeve Barry, +353 (0)1 271 9643, Acting Financial Controller Barbara O’Reilly Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Ann Reihill Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Richard Power, Robert Power, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

Donal Ryan lives in Limerick with his wife

Anne Marie and their children, Thomas and Lucy. Donal’s number one bestselling debut novel, The Spinning Heart, was voted Irish Book of the Year in 2012, was long-listed for the 2013 Man Booker Prize and has been nominated for the 2014 International IMPAC Dublin Literary Award. Donal’s number one bestselling second novel, The Thing About December, was released in October 2013 to critical acclaim. Writing about his adopted city, see page 54, Donal says, “it was great to have an opportunity to describe Limerick as it really is.”

Al Higgins is a photographer based in Dublin, where he works on advertising and editorial commissions shooting interesting people, places, food fo and drink. “Limerick has always been for visiting vi family or going to a match in Thomond,” says sa this Limerick man, “but this time was about fin finding the many gems Limerick has to offer, be between great restaurants, shops and spaces like the Limerick City Art Gallery and the Hunt Mu Museum. What struck me most about my visit was th pride and passion of the people living there – the whe whether it was about rugby matches, or which pub to make sure I had a pint in, it was great to see.” Se page 54, for his take on the city. See

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309;, email Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit or IMAGE Publications Ltd –



ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, Advertising Director Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, Advertising Executive Corinne Vaughan +353 (0)1 271 9622, Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855,

April/May 2014


A class act

Actress Ruth McGill on treading the boards


Capital culture

Writer Donal Ryan hearts Limerick

The Great War remembered Flanders 100 years on

Hipster hooray

Lesser spotted Toronto



Musician Edel Fox photographed at South Studios, Dublin, by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Wesley and Laura Leonard FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick HERE FOR ... Moving to Cork to begin a married adventure.

WHO? Jason Graham and son Louis FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva HERE FOR ... Louis and his Dad are back from a ski trip. Now it’s home to Lisburn.

WHO? From left left, Jake Sharratt, Alex McGregor, Fran and Shaun O’Boyle FLYING IN FROM ... Sydney HERE FOR ... This gang spent three weeks visiting family in Sydney. They’re happy to be home for chips and gravy.


Voyagers arrived to learn Irish, eat chips and explore. Cara Maga Magazine was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to meet them.

WHO? Au Aussie ie couple uple Rebec Rebecca and Jesse Roberts FLYING IN FROM ... Newcastle HERE FOR ... A tour of Ireland – and to re-visit their favourite Dublin pub, Thomas House.


WHO? Padhraic and Max Garvey FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam HERE FOR ... Boarding school begins for eleven-year-old guitarist Max, who can’t wait to learn Irish.

WHO? Virginia Sierra FLYING IN FROM ... Madrid HERE FOR ... Virginia returns from her Spanish homeland. Now, it’s onward to Cork for this hotel waitress.



WHO? Brendan Spratt and Gavin McConnon FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva HERE FOR ... They’re back home after trying out new ski lodge, the W Verbier.

WHO? David Furlong and Isabel van Zelm FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam HERE FOR ... Isabel, a visual merchandiser, is in Dublin for business. David was on hand to greet her.

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Find out what’s on, where and when in April and May

Throwing beautiful shapes at this year’s Dublin Dance Festival (May 20-31) is Russell Maliphant and members of his company. A leading light in contemporary dance, Maliphant is also the associate director of Sadler’s Wells, and here presents Still Current, pictured, a quintet of mesmerising works at the Abbey Theatre (May 29-31). The solo Afterlight (Part One) won an Olivier Award for its dazzling homage to Vaslav Nijinsky, while Two witnesses a frenzied Carys Staton “confined” to a column of light. The opening piece, Traces, is a multifaceted trio, while Still defies its moniker through interplay between light and anatomy, and Interrupted Current uses blackouts to stylised effect.


Lift off

Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Niamh Wade and Roisin Agnew.


4 hotels on the Giro d’Italia route

The competitive cycling marathon begins in Belfast on May 9 and ends in Trieste, Italy, on June 1 ( Here’s our pick of pit-stops …

Benedicts, Belfast

This 32-room boutique hotel off Shaftesbury Square has an elegant, contemporary design inspired by Art Deco. Swanky bed linens, hearty breakfasts, plentiful in-room amenities, a central location and a busy bar and restaurant make for a buzzy stay. A great value option. Double rooms from £50. +44 28 9059 1999;

Number 31, Dublin

Tucked away on Leeson Close, luxury guesthouse Number 31 was the first home of architect Sam Stephenson. It also comprises a Georgian townhouse, the two properties linked by a leafy private garden. The sunken lounge with mirrored bar adds a shot of glamour. Double rooms from €150.

Ca ‘Sette, Bassano del Grappa Approximately 100

Quartopiano, Modena

Some 40 kilometres from Bologna Guglielmo Marconi airport, in the “capital of engines” – the birthplace of Ferrari, Maserati, et al – this Modena B&B is a dreamy tworoom rooftop hideaway, with oodles of natural light, white wooden eaves, amazing hosts and breakfasts. Double rooms from €130.

lists at the Tour PEDAL POWER Cheer on cyc y 24, in which de Conamara in Clifden this Ma e of the finest participants slice through som 140-kilometre and topography in Ireland across 80-kilometre routes. tourdecon SPORT

kilometres from Venice, and five kilometres from pretty Bassano del Grappa’s centre, this 17th-century wine estate is composed of three, thoughtfully restored buildings. Its 19 rooms and suites are understated and modern, and there are hiking opportunities aplenty. Double rooms from €150.

Get your sport on ... by Sive O’Brien 2




Anyone for tennis?



Ah, Paris. Home of the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower – and the French Open. Named after an aviator, when the world’s premiere clay court opened at the Porte d’Auteuil in 1928, the historic Roland-Garros stadium will again bounce into life this May 25 to June 8. To win the Open, it’s almost a prerequisite to speak Spanish, with Majorcan left-hander Rafael Nadal conquering eight out of his nine appearances – perhaps the reason for Ireland’s notable absence … But if you fancy fast-paced neck turns and hours of toned, tanned, tennis talent, this is for you.



1 Tennis racket, to order, at Chanel 2 MiCoach armband for iPhone, adidas, €24.99 at 3 Fitness watch, Garmin Forerunner 10, €125 at 4 Collapsable water bottle, Vapur, €11.24 at 5 Bicycle, €395 at

“It wasn’t the screaming that put our customers off. It was the hair...”

...which was a little surprising, our customers having been a strikingly fashionable lot for 170 odd years. When Beatlemania hit Dublin, the four gentlemen concerned made their only appearance in Ireland in a cinema that is now part of the Arnotts building. To say that you could probably have heard the screaming in the street at cruising altitude is only a slight exaggeration. Then, in the following weeks and months, we started seeing women bringing their men in for a little wardrobe overhaul. Tighter trousers. Sharper shoes. Shorter jackets. Skinny ties. But the hair remained more Dublin than Liverpool. Ours not to reason why. Ours simply to offer whatever’s next, since 1843.

Photo courtesy of Independent Newspapers


H E N R Y S T.






W W W. A R N O T T S . I E

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Bathing in glory


Bryan O’Hanlon predicts that 2014 could be the breakout year for the singer SOAK.

She may be only 17 but SOAK, or Bridie MondsWatson as she’s known to friends, has long been earmarked as one of Ireland’s brightest young talents. Having caught the eye with her Sea Creatures EP in 2012, Bridie has since received resounding critical acclaim and made innumerable festival appearances. Not bad for a girl who first picked up a guitar in 2010. The diminutive Derry songstress specialises in emotive acoustic yearns that, although

sparse in arrangement, brim with heart. “I write songs instead of talking to others about feelings,” she explains. “That sounds quite lonely but that’s how I sort situations in my head. All my ideas come from everyday life; being part of or observing situations.” Her latest effort, Blud, is an achingly sweet ode to her pals and, having just been signed up by Scottish synth-poppers Chvrches to their new label, 2014 should see her star ascend further.


Electric avenues Music festival season has begun, and it’s nothing short of eclectic. If Easter egg hunts aren’t your thing, stop into Carrick-on-Shannon, Co Leitrim, for the Phase One Electronic Music & Arts Festival, April 19-20 (phaseonefestival. com), where Terranova, Andrea Parker and Sid Le Rock and more plan to lift the roof of The Dock arts zz centre. While at the Cheltenham Jazz z) this April Festival ( 30 to May 5, we take no responsibility for your feet losing control as Laura Mvula, above right, Gilles Peterson, Jamie Cullen, Jools Holland and Frank Sinatra Jnr take the limelight. For a more flower power experience, check out Vantastival (, top, in Bellurgan Park, Co Louth, May 2-4. Rock out to more than 70 acts, including John Spillane, Fight Like Apes and The Hothouse Flowers. Don’t possess a motorhome? Never fear, tents are welcome too.

for all things vintage TURNING TABLES The trend Gramophone Sessions at continues with Duke Special’s April 24; a new soirée at Dublin’s The Liquor Rooms on favourite vinyl from the which the troubadour plays his k’n’roll. Jazz Age through to 1950s roc


Join our club London nightclubs have turned into a niche-or-die merry-go-round of concepts, leaving punters to reap the hugely varied rewards. Mason House ( in the beautiful vaults of the London Palladium was designed by Ludovic Messager of Paris’s Titty Twister fame, to reflect Argyll Street’s Masonic heritage. Entry is via the crypt into the Main Club Room. Similarly esoteric is Nick “Mahiki” House’s Chakana (, its Inca-themepark interiors and From Dusk Till Dawn-inspired entertainment complemented by “superfood” cocktails involving chia seeds, cocoa leaves, piscos, rare tequilas and dark rums. If your name’s not down you’re not coming in to The Drury Club (, far right, a private members’ joint in Covent Garden that rocks a fin de siècle Paris meets contemporary Manhattan vibe. And this spring/ summer, pop-up cabaret The Black Cat (, right, slinks into Café Royal hotel’s opulent Oscar Wilde Bar – where the wit fell in love with Bosie – for music, circus and burlesque acts followed by a late club. Dinner tickets available.

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Striking a new accord this spring/ summer … by Liz Dwyer


Full of character A city world-renowned for its artistic prowess, it’s no surprise that Berlin is playing host to 700 creatives from April 30 to May 4 for the 10th anniversary edition of Pictoplasma (, celebrating the art of contemporary character design. Digital, drawn and 3D cuties and critters will exhibit alongside conferences and lectures, an Ancestral Portrait expo of “character selfies” at its centre (Eloy Krioka’s creation above). Also pushing the contemporary art envelope is the 8th Berlin Biennale (, which runs May 29 until August 3, and features works by 50 international artists that explore a place’s historical blueprint on contemporary life.

SAINTED LOVE It’s like Valentine’s Day all over again in Catalonia on April 23, when St George’s Day is celebrated by exchanging “a rose for love [for her] and a book forever [for him]”. On Barcelona’s Las Ramblas, an estimated four million red roses and 800,000 books are sold from pop-up stalls.

1 Fusing sound 1 and scent (sort of), BURBERRY BRIT RHYTHM FOR WOMEN features top notes of lavender, pink pepper and neroli. Your pulse points will beat as fast as your heart … €59 2 Champagne corks pop when you spray the sparkling scent CAROLINA HERRERA 212 VIP ROSÉ. Inspired by the New York party scene, with notes of peach tree blossom, this fresh and fruity fragrance transports you to a rooftop celebration uptown. €48


3 Presented in a vintage flacon, reminiscent of classic couture days, JOUR D’HERMÈS ABSOLU is a creamy sensual blend of sweet pea blossom, 2 gardenia and apricot flowers. €91 4 VIKTOR + ROLF’S BONBON is a sweetly wrapped indulgence – and the duo’s third aromatic instalment. Mandarin and 4 peach notes, enveloped with caramel accords, offer a feeling of guilt-free selfindulgence. €85

Scents & sensibility There’s a whiff of intrigue at the extended Palazzo Mocenigo museum in Venice, where five rooms are now dedicated to the history of perfume, with interactive “olfactive stations” and artefacts dating back to 3,000 BC.


The text messengers Last year saw the likes of Caitlin Moran, Dan Brown and Rebecca Solnit take to the stage with a line-up that was gratifyingly fresh and unfussy. So, returning with an extended nine-day programme from May 17 to 25, Dublin Writers Festival can be said to have come into its own this year. Among the speakers will be American novelist Anita Shreve, whose body of work defies the boundaries between literary and popular fiction, what with her garnering the Orange Prize and Oprah’s Book Club awards. Native talent will be on display, with our own Emma Donoghue discussing her latest novel, Frog Music, with Edel Coffey. Like her much acclaimed novel Room, it’s based on a true story yet, rather dissimilarly, it tells the story of a burlesque dancer based in San Francisco. A wild card appearance will be made by The Kinks frontman, Ray Davies, left, whose book Americana documents his life-long fascination and contention with America. Also joining ranks is the world-famous Cuban ballet dancer Carlos Acosta.

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Inn style Fiona O’Donnell of The Fatted Calf in Glasson, Co Westmeath (, selects her favourite gastropubs.


NEW YORK The Breslin Bar & Dining Room In the heart of New York, and inside The Ace Hotel, this is the second of Brit chef April “The Spotted Pig” Bloomfield’s Michelin star-winning gastropubs. Expect professional comfort food, using seasonal local ingredients cooked from the heart. Ask for The breakfast specials at the weekend or, from the dinner menu, the chargrilled lamb burger with feta, cumin mayo and thrice-cooked chips.

LONDON Opera Tavern Tapas Bar & Restaurant The finest Spanish and Italian ingredients served in a classic, two-storey Victorian London pub, is what you find in the Opera Tavern that’s located opposite the Drury Lane Theatre in Covent Garden. Sit at the bar and order from their snacks menu, or from the Italian and Spanish charcuterie selection. Ask for Mini Iberico pork and foie gras burger.





LISDOONVARNA Wild Honey Inn Situated on the edge of Lisdoonvarna, near the Cliffs of Moher, this is everything a modern country inn should be. With Aidan McGrath’s unfussy, seasonal, artisan cooking and Kate’s eye for luxury in the understated bedrooms, it’s the perfect destination for a weary traveller on the way to the Wild Atlantic Way. Ask for Burren Smokehouse smoked salmon, little gem lettuce, ratte potato, red onion and fennel mayonnaise.


Barbecue sources Now that summer time is here, what better way to pull us out of last season’s funk than barbecue dining? These Dublin restaurants may not be beachside, or even alfresco, but the smoked flavours put us in mind of hazy, lazy days and nights snaffling perfectly charred burgers in friends’ gardens. Pitt Bros (South Great George’s Street; smokes its meats for up to 14 hours, its quality-over-quantity menu of pulled pork, brisket, dry rubs, below, zeitgeisty morsels a feel-good feast. Bison Bar (Wellington Quay; is also meat-only, and similarly all fired up with Irish-sourced simi ca carnivorous hunks, left – and 150 wh whiskies. More posh steakhouse than barbie bar is Asador (Haddington barb Ro Road;, which scatters woodchips over its hot coals and logs wo fo for a subtle smoky flavor. Pleasures of the flesh can also be found at Meet & Meat (South William Street; Me @Me @MeetandMeat), one of the city’s newest hipster openings. ne

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FASHIONABLE FEASTS Pop-up festival Eat Drink Fashion Bristol returns this May 1-18, its “field to fork” produce sourced within 97 kilometres. The tipi village in Queen Square includes a fine dining restaurant, a tapas bar and live music venue.

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Wish you were here Born Bo in Slovenia, Tanja Baričič, Ba left, has been living and working in Dublin for the th past year and a half. Sh says of her photograph She ta taken of an idyllic beach in Lagos in southern Portugal “My “M boyfriend and I decided Portugal: to escape the Irish autumn weather for a week, and went to the Algarve. We couldn’t have picked a better destination. I wouldn’t have thought beforehand that we could get such beautiful sandy beaches, clear water, gorgeous cliffs, and warm, sunny weather in Europe ... at least not all in one place. I took this picture on one of our walks around Lagos, which is famous for its amazing beaches. This shot is a perfect representation of our whole vacation: sunny, peaceful, and beautiful.”

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the June issue. The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.


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On my travels GAA player Eoin Cadogan chats to Sive O’Brien about life before and after the final whistle.


A spor sportsman in the truest sense of the word, Eoin Cadogan is a dual GAA player who has be been elevated to stardom in his native Cork. Part of the Cork senior inter-county Cork Gaelic football team and the Cork senior Gael hurl hurling team at his local Douglas club, this 27-y 27-year-old champion spends every waking moment mo training, playing or perfecting his performance. hi verything in my life is … centred on the games. Playing two games means there is little time off. After the season is over with your county, you’re back with your club with both hurling and football, then it’s back into pre-season preparation and then the cycle starts all over again. Before I go out on the pitch … I visualise what I need to do and how I can do it to the best of my ability. I love hurling and football ... in equal measure. It would be hard to choose one sport over the other, even though I took a break from hurling last year. When I was younger, I preferred hurling and struggled with football, and at one stage was going to give up football completely, but through


the support of my family and mentors I was encouraged to stick at it. Now, I really enjoy playing both and have made some great friends in both codes. My all-time favourite trip … was Australia in 2012, representing Ireland in the International Rules series. Spending our winter in the sun was incredible and I had the opportunity to train with a professional AFL team, the Greater Western Sydney Giants. I decided then and there that strength and conditioning in sport was something I wanted to get involved in, so I’m currently studying it in Cork. The most memorable trip was … a team holiday in 2009 in Thailand. An unforgettable, white-water rafting trip was

organised. I’ll or never forget ne capsizing and getting gett trapped; I was fortunate enough to come away with only a cracked safety helmet and some cuts and bruises, but a few of the guys had to be hospitalised. It was a particularly scary moment. The Blue Mountains in Sydney were … life-changing. I lived in a log cabin for a couple of days and trekked through the mountains. The scenery and tranquility were incredible. I completely switched off from the outside world and just enjoyed the moment. Playing in Croke Park is … electric. With 83,000 people shouting, it’s impossible to hear any messages from teammates! One of the most memorable games was at the … Etihad

3 learn-a-sport holidays ...


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Always wanted to hang like Mr Cruise in Mission Impossible II? Learn the ropes on a two-day rock climbing course. Not quite Utah, but Ireland boasts ideal learner crags. Feel the burn and forget your worries – it’s the perfect remedy. €170 excluding accommodation;


If buns of steel are your quintessential holiday souvenirs, then gear up for a cycling holiday with Tour de France legend Stephen Roche. You will power pedal around Calvia, Mallorca, taking on two of the island’s biggest climbs. Bring on the Lycra. Seven night packages from €880;

stadium in Melbourne for Ireland vs Australia in the International Rules. It was great to meet all the Irish who had emigrated and were there supporting us. After we won the all-Ireland in 2010 … we travelled to South Africa and celebrated New Year in Cape Town. When you're in a team like that, it’s not often that you have everyone together, especially with so many functions and medal presentations after a win, so it was pretty special to have all the team celebrating in the same place. One piece of advice I would give sportspeople is … you can’t plan to win; it’s about how you get there. You can’t wake up and say you’re going to be at your destination, you need to plan it out and work for it.


Surfin’ USA ... The Beach Boys sung it and you can learn it. Only 15 minutes from San Francisco, the waves await budding boarders. Get amped for four days of wetsuit-wearing fun – meaning space in your case for post-surf shopping. $325, excluding accommodation; age 13+.

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Smart Traveller|

Lisa Hughes explores San Francisco, and sizes up Munich’s best business lunches.



CEO of Sigmar Recruitment Adrian McGennis is also co-founder of Gateway to Europe, an initiative which, in partnership with Aer Lingus, promotes Ireland as a business location. His favourite city is San Francisco.



TANTRIS A firm favourite with the business pack and Munich’s stylish set alike, Tantris offers fine dining that’s a treat for the eyes as well as the tastebuds. With one of Germany’s top chefs, Hans Haas, at the helm, this Michelin-starred restaurant is the perfect place to tuck into a power lunch. (7 Johann-Fichte-Strasse, +49 89 361 9590;

“My last trip to San Francisco … was last year with Ireland: Gateway To Europe and was very successful on all fronts. We had 24 Irish businesses travelling together and had a pretty hectic schedule to New York, Boston, Santa Clara and San Francisco. Many of these businesses compete in Ireland but the collaborative spirit and camaraderie made it enjoyable as well as productive. This April 2-4, more than 50 Irish professional services business leaders are travelling to San Francisco again, and Silicon Valley, to meet more than 500 US businesses, to showcase Ireland as Europe’s premier investment location. San Francisco is great for business travel because … Even if you’ve got a group of 50 people, getting around is

very smooth. San Francisco is obviously at the core of technology in the world so it goes without saying they have excellent public Wi-Fi in central areas, like Market Street for example. Best place for business meetings … We are usually on a tight schedule so we use the iconic Fairmont (950 Mason Street, +1 415 772 5000; for both accommodation and business. Not only is it a city landmark but the room where we held our seminar last year was spectacular and had facilities to match. The hotel is ideal for formal and informal meetings. Business lunch … There is a great buzz around Fisherman’s Wharf and the food is pretty great. Fish is to the fore and the crab is excellent. I like Alioto’s (8 Fisherman’s Wharf, +1 415 673 0183; aliotos.

”Gadget I can’t travel without … Any audio device – even a Walkman! – once I have some Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin on it, I’m happy.“

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com) for a relaxed meal, even more great fish and interesting wines. Business drinks … Much as we tried, it’s hard to avoid the Irish Pub, so I’d go for Durty Nelly’s (2328 Irving Street, +1 415 664 2555). They are great hosts and the place has it all, even great bar food. This is one of the best Irish pubs. Best business hotel … Everything points to The Fairmont (as before). As well as being a great spot for business, it’s an extremely comfortable hotel and the film/TV history alone (including Vertigo, The Towering Inferno and loads of dodgy 1980s TV series) makes it a really interesting place to stay. Getting around … Wear comfortable shoes because walking is the best way to experience San Francisco’s famous hills. Downtime … Get down to Pebble Beach, splash about and play on one of the best golf courses on the world, or drive to Napa Valley and try some Zinfandels.”


BISTROMO The Mandarin Oriental’s Restaurant Mark’s is one of the city’s top restaurants for an evening meal but its chic Bistromo brasserie hits the spot for lunch. Chef Simon Larese’s menu focuses on themes such as Asian or American classics. Grab a table by the long windows for fantastic city views. (1 Neuturmstrasse, 80331, +49 89 290 980;


RESTAURANT 181 Munich’s answer to 360 at Toronto's CN Tower is 181, a revolving restaurant atop the Olympic Tower. Located 181 metres above the city, the inventively named eatery is led by award-winning chef Otto Koch. The panorama is impressive, as is the food. (Spiridon-Louis-Ring 7, +49 89 350 948 181;

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Just the business

Private clubs offer the personal touch for professional networking in London, writes David Robbins. here was a time when London private members’ clubs fell into one of two categories: latedrinking dens (think the Groucho Club in the 1980s) or library-like mausoleums where retired colonels napped after lunch (more or less any club on Pall Mall from 1850 onwards). They were difficult to join and often didn’t make sense from a networking point of view. Now, a new generation of less formal clubs is reinventing the genre with the business person in mind. Some, like the Soho House chain, have been around for a while (the first launched in 1995), while others, such as St Barnabas House, have just opened their doors. And there’s Home House, an architecturally stunning premises occupying three houses of a Georgian terrace on Portland Square, which is creating a buzz after a refurbish which included the installation of pieces by the renowned Iranian architect Dame Zaha Hadid. All are viable alternatives to a hotel if you are having a day of oneon-one meetings in London or you make regular short business trips to the UK capital. They provide a bespoke experience and they often offer reduced-rate membership to people from outside the UK. Most encourage younger members and often offer discounts for under-35s. “The attraction of a club is that it’s somewhere to go where somebody knows your name – the old cliché,” says Grainne Weber, an Irish architect who worked on the refit of St Barnabas House. “I go to London a lot. I get up at 6am, get my flight and get the tube and it’s lovely to go to a place where someone opens the door and says ‘Hi Grainne’.” “Business people use our club all the time,” says Reece Williams of Home House. “We have quite a few


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members based in Ireland. I think people choose a private club over a hotel because of the home-fromhome feel. You’re recognised, the service is more attentive. Remember, this was originally someone’s home, so there are lounges and gardens and a feel that hotels don’t have.” The idea of a club offering a personal experience is echoed by Sandra Schembri of St Barnabas House. “People are looking for a place they feel they belong and can invest their values into,” she says. “They want to bring back the personal touch.” London, with its 8.17 million population, is large enough to support clubs catering to different niches: Soho House is aimed squarely at the advertising, digital and media set, Home House attracts a City and legal set, and St Barnabas House, which is a not-for-profit enterprise run by a charity for the homeless, draws a socially conscious crowd. Founding members include actor Brian Cox, journalist Miranda Sawyer and musician Jarvis Cocker, right. “Private clubs are definitely a growing trend,” says Williams. “There is a huge proliferation of new ones opening at the moment. In my view, it’s driven by people’s demand for exclusivity.” The desire to mix and network with likeminded people is just as strong now, it seems, as when White’s, the oldest and most exclusive gentlemen’s club in London, first opened its doors more than 300 years ago.

3 with club class ...


Shoreditch House (Ebor Street, Shoreditch, +44 207 739 5040; is part of the Soho House group. It boasts quirky interiors, pool and gym and 26 bedrooms over five floors. Membership £900 (plus £200 joining fee). Rooms available to non-members. Home House (20 Portman Square, +44 207 670 2000; has a largely City clientele. Its two restaurants, two drawing rooms and 21 rooms and suites are opulently furnished. Full membership costs £1,840 (plus £1,840 joining fee). St Barnabas House (1 Greek Street, Soho Square, +44 207 437 1894; is a members’ club for “architects of social change”. Membership is £660 (includes a £300 donation to their charity). No bedrooms, but lots of events and food by Benugo.

2 From top, Georgian splendour at Home House; not-for-profit enterprise St Barnabas House whose founder members include, left, Jarvis Cocker.


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My travel notebook

Art connoisseur CATHERINE O’RIORDAN is the brains behind ( SO Fine Art Editions (, the fine art print gallery on Dublin’s South Anne Street. She scours the globe sourcing the work of exciting new and established artists for the gallery. Married to artist Stephen Lawlor, they love to mix business and pleasure, and jet off to unearth new talent while taking a few days holiday in the process. She talks to Liz Dwyer.

packing “My capsule ck work . a bla essentials .. undresses, s w dress, a fe d wimsuit, an s sandals, my wellery and some cool je things up at ress g up wedges to d ll everythin ro t s ju I t. ere.” nigh hen I get th and iron w Sun dress, Jon Jonathan Sa Saunders, €1 €125, De Debenhams

FAVOURITE WEEKEND DESTINATION? “Lisbon. Such a wonderful city to explore and experience with its layered and complex history, from the fifth-century Visigoths to the ninthcentury Moors. Excellent fish restaurants, superb pastries and must-see museums.”

Bow front swimsuit, €43, Marks & Spencer

Bimba y Lola necklace, €120,

THE SIGHT THAT TOOK YOUR BREATH AWAY? “Watching the sunrise at the top of the Luberon Mountains in Provence, France, after a three-hour climb. Breathtaking on both levels.” .”

BEST RESTAURANT? “In the heart of Le Marais in Paris, Le Colimaçon (44 rue Vieille du Temple; serves refined and traditional French cuisine, with an excellent selection of wines direct from the producers. It’s trés romantic.”

Dolce & Gabanna wedges, €525

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY MEMORY? “Having lunch on a volcanic beach in Italy, prepared by my husband Stephen, who climbed 700 steps and backk to make it in the house se in Montemarcello where e we were staying.” g.”

YOU KNOW YOU’RE FINALLY ON HOLIDAYS WHEN? “I can read my book without interruption. I’m hoping to get through Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier and Children on Their Birthdays by Truman Capote.”

Catherine’s carry-on essentials ntials

1 Jax sandals, €75, Dune 2 Ray-Ban Clubmaster Glasses, €240 3 Boots Sun, Swim & Gym Hair Protection Masque, €5.19 4 Evian Water Facial Spray, €4 5 MAC Viva Glam III Lipstick, €19 1 6 DKNY Large Tote Bag, €215, Brown Thomas, Grafton St, Dublin 2

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Millennium Stadium Saturday, 24th May K.O. 17:00

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New shoots at Chelsea

Lucy White tiptoes through the tulips – and more – of this year’s Chelsea Flower Show programme. hen you walk into the Great Pavilion, you are immediately hit by scent and colour. If you were to think of any flower or plant, you will see it there in full bloom. There is no show in the world like this.” Irish gardener and Garden Heaven magazine editor Dermot O’Neill is enthusing about the annual Chelsea Flower Show (, which bursts into bloom this May 20-24. From mindboggling varieties of fuchsia to the hugely inventive show gardens, it’s no wonder that the UK festival organised by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) remains the highlight of the gardeners’ calendar. Come rain or shine – the Great Pavilion, all 16,000 square metres of it, providing welcome sanctuary in a downpour – Chelsea Flower Show guarantees to be the prettiest assault on the senses. This year it hosts more than 500 exhibitors from across the world, including a new Discovery area, featuring scientific and educational displays, while there’ll be a welcome return of the popular Artisan Retreats, in which well-known designers and artists – one of whom was Orla Kiely in 2012 – gussy up garden sheds using sustainable materials and traditional craftsmanship.


This year, there’s an emphasis on First World War centennial exhibits: The Soldiers’ Charity Garden, entitled No Man’s Land, reflecting on the damaging effects of war on place and landscape; Francesca Murrell and Emma Page’s Dial a Flight Potters Garden, which honours those who fought in the Great War; Matthew Keightley’s RHS debut, Hope on the Horizon, for the Help for Heroes military charity, and Birmingham City Council’s platoon of poppies in the Great Pavilion. On a lighter note, a Peter Rabbit themed garden aims to please Beatrix Potter fans, while emerging young talent will be represented by brothers Harry and David Rich – 26 and 23 years old, respectively – who have designed an astronomy-inspired garden for our very own Bord na Mona, and 26-year-old Hugo Bugg, who previously won gold at RHS’s Tatton Park Flower Show. Education and learning is big on the RHS’s agenda, so you’ll see many a garden-design diploma course advertised as you shuffle around. As well as floral splendour and ingenuity, the event offers those green of finger a chance to get in on the DIY action. Says O’Neill, who has been going to the festival for a quarter of a century, and has led guided tours with the Travel

In the frame – Roger Platts’ gold winning design at last year’s Chelsea Flower Show, the M&G Centenary Garden entitled “Windows through Time”.

3 weird and wonderful gardens …


Keukenhof Gardens, Netherlands As if more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths across 32 hectares aren’t enough to wow, Keukenhof Gardens, left – 34 kilometres from Amsterdam – also boasts a bee garden, and a Flower Parade on May 3 that travels 40 kilometres from Noordwijk to Haarlem. Open March to May 18.

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Garnish Island, Ireland Also known as Garinish, Ilnacullin and Ilaunacullin, this 15-hectare islet off Bantry Bay, West Cork, has a unique microclimate allowing for exotic species to flourish. Italian and Grecian temples, a Martello Tower, walled gardens and a tearoom add to its incongruous charm. Open April to October.

Department for the last 16 years: “I always find myself ordering a few extra daffodils to add to the garden. I order them because I can see them in the Great Pavilion, and then they arrive later in summer and I plant them. I think I have about 60 different types in and around my garden. You just pick your plants then and there – roses, tulips, fuchsias, all kinds of familiar plants – and they’ll deliver them.” Perfect for horticulturally inclined tourists. Ireland is woefully underrepresented at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show (“it’s prohibitively expensive if you want to exhibit. With funding in place, I’m sure we’ll see more Irish garden designers there,” says O’Neill), but hopefully there’ll be a new Mary Reynolds waiting in the wingstems in time for next year ...


The Poison Garden, UK This ingenious installation at Northumberland’s amazing contemporary Alnwick Garden explores the myths, legends and science of toxic plants. Take a guided tour around approximately 100 venomous specimens, from foxgloves to hemlock. Naturally, Do Not Touch signs are rigorously enforced.

Visit the home of a True Irish Spirit and immerse yourself in its history, craftsmanship and flavours. • Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Restaurant GLASSES UP TO DRINKING RESPONSIBLY

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Shelf Life|

Photographs past and present of five iconic cities make ideal travel companions for Bridget Hourican.

Who’s reading what?


The New York-born, Maynoothbased author and lecturer Oona Frawley.


by Taschen (hb €49.99, pb €7.99) WELL Actually, portraits of five cities (and counting). VERSED These aren’t guidebooks exactly but On April 23, Dublin pays photographic journeys through the past and tribute to Seamus Heaney present of some of the world’s most iconic in an evening of poetry and metropolises: Paris, Berlin, London, Los music in the National Concert Angeles and, here, New York. Each book has Hall. With Theo Dorgan, Donal its own expert editor who has put together Lunny, Paula Meehan, the RTÉ 150 photographs (contemporary and from Concert Orchestra and more. the archives) with informative captions and Celebrating Seamus inspiring quotations. These books bring the Heaney, €20/25. cities’ histories together with your own memories and the exciting present. They also come in large hardcover size or (our favourite) snug paperbacks to fit in your bag, so that when you’re walking down New York’s Sixth Avenue, you can whip out an image of it in 1980 and remember those distinctive Checker taxicabs, as photographed, above, by Ernst Haas.

WHAT’S YOUR NEW NOVEL FLIGHT ABOUT? Four characters: an elderly couple who have returned to Dublin from living in Vietnam, their middle-aged daughter and their carer, a pregnant Zimbabwean emigrant. It’s set in 2004 when Ireland votes on citizenship rights. WHAT INSPIRED THE IDEA? As someone who batted between the US and Ireland from childhood, I wanted to look at what it meant to be at home somewhere, and was sparked to write by Ireland’s new multiculturalism. WHERE DO YOU WRITE? Before I had children, I needed quiet to write at home, or wrote in cafés for the pleasure of people watching. Now, I will write anywhere – if the kids are in the bath I will write on the floor! MOST UNUSUAL PLACE YOU’VE WRITTEN IN? A courtyard of the Temple of Literature in Hanoi on a summer’s day so hot and humid that the paper felt damp as I wrote. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A FLIGHT? If I’m with my children, there’s always a Shirley Hughes book. Going on holiday, I always have new Irish fiction, or anything by Michael Ondaatje or Nadeem Aslam. … AND THE WORST? On a trip to Australia I once had to read to my daughter a picture book about a witch at least 20 times … Flight is the debut title from new Dublin-based publishing company, Tramp Press.

Three new travel reads ... Harry Bucknall, Like a Tramp, Like a Pilgrim (Bloomsbury, (B out May 8, £16.99). £1 Former Coldstream Guardsman, Gu Harry Bucknall Bu sets off walking from fr St Paul’s in London to St Peter’s in Rome. Ro His route – through Canterbury, Agincourt, Lucca – is along the Via Francigena. The new Camino de Santiago? 28 |


Michael Booth, The Almost Nearly Perfect People (Jonathan Cape, £1 £14.99). British journalist Mi Michael Booth leaves his ho home in Copenhagen to journey through Sweden Sweden, Norwa Norway, Finland and Iceland on a Bill Bryson-esque quest for bizarre facts, hilarious anecdotes, and wry observations about the Scandi countries.

Kevin Markham, Driving the Green (Collins (C Press, May 31, £10.99). £1 Maybe this should sh be called Around Ireland’s Ir Golf Courses in a 20-year-old 20 Camper Van – just to get across the road trip aspect. Yes, plenty of golf – mostly along the western seaboard – but also landscape, weather, a leaky roof and plenty of oddballs.


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What’s cooking?

Pack your apron – the folks at Ballymaloe have prepared a feast of events for this year’s Literary Festival of Food and Wine. Frances Power reports. ’m cycling from Cork Airport to Shanagarry,” says Alys Fowler, gardener, writer, forager and guest speaker at this year’s Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine. It’s a 40-kilometre trip. “I need to turn up hungry so I have space for all the amazing food.” It’s not just about food though. While Darina Allen has been a lifelong advocate for all that’s good on a plate, now she has fused three perennial festival favourites – food, wine and literature. The result is a hybrid that’s thriving. Originally planned as a biennial event, last May’s inaugural outing was such a success – 2,500 visitors were expected, but 8,000 turned up – that the decision was made to run the festival again this year. “When we first thought about a literary festival a few years ago,” says Darina, “there was an obvious connection between food and wine and literature. We chose the elder statesmen – like Claudia Roden, Stephanie Alexander … people who not only cook but write beautifully.” It says a lot about Darina’s reputation across the culinary world that these elder statesmen jumped at the chance to come along.


Headlining this year’s threeday event are some of the world’s biggest names in food. Among the A-listers are René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen, Middle Eastern food expert Yotam Ottolenghi, Sandor Katz, the fermentation guru, as well food writers such as Diana Kennedy, now 90 years old. “It’s the chance of a lifetime to see them,” says Darina. Irish talent is well-represented by, among others, chefs Paul Flynn, Clodagh McKenna, Catherine Fulvio and Donal Skehan, all wellknown for serving up world-class food and, between them, filling a bookshelf or two. For many of the writers, it’s also a chance to meet each other. Last year, Alys Fowler led foraging workshops with writer and chef David Tanis and Mick Kelly of GIY Ireland. “It was a very heady experience,” she recalls, “because it was lovely to forage there, but everywhere you looked you were like, ‘Oh, my God, there’s Sandor Katz’; there’s Madhur Jaffrey having breakfast. Such incredibly respected and well-known guests and speakers.” She’ll be leading another foraging outing, this time paired with René Redzepi as well as talking about a new publishing venture she’s working on with a beekeeper.

The Big Shed – fertile ground for new ideas, artisan markets, kiddy workshops and more.

3 to whet your appetite ...


May 30 to June 1, Foodies Festival, Kenwood House, London Rub floury elbows with pastry chefs, sugarcraft experts and bakers including Bake-Off 2012 winner John Whaite; sample local craft beers and cider or gaze in awe at Michelin-starred chefs. Just one of the Foodies Festival’s countrywide summer-long events, left.

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April 10-13, West Waterford Festival of Food, Dungarvan, Co Waterford This year’s focus is Pioneering Women in Food, so the sisterhood, including Trish Deseine, Eunice Power and Domini Kemp, will be talking dishes, also on the menu are movies, debates and Bus Bia trips to visit local food producers.

Altogether more than 100 events are planned, including panel discussions, cookery demos, wine tastings, screenings, readings and workshops. A fringe festival will be held in the Big Shed (“the size of an airplane hangar”) where gardeners, foragers, bakers, brewers, bloggers and fans can cross-pollinate. And there will be plenty of opportunity to rub shoulders with your favourite writers and chefs. “You’ll not only see them in the kitchen,” says Darina, “but walking around mingling with everyone.” Good food, a star-spangled guest list and a fine country house – or as Alys Fowler describes it, “a really nice house party”. What’s not to like? The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine, Shanagarry, Co Cork, runs from May 16-18;


August 15-17, San Francisco Street Food Festival A splendiferous three-course weekend festival with a Friday night market and fundraiser, a buzzing Saturday street festival with food trucks, vendors and topnotch restaurants, and a food and entrepreneurship talking shop on the Sunday.

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THE COOKBOOK The Surf Café Cook Book by Jane and Myles Lamberth, €19.95,


THE ESSENTIAL Mr Zogs Sex Wax, Wa €2.40 at Great Outdoors, Chatham Street, Outd Dublin Dubl 1

THE SUNGLASSES Handmade Oakwood Waiting for the Sun shades, €130,



THE BOARD O’Shea Thruster 6’0 EPX2 Surfboard, €425,

Catch that wave 5

Grab your board and head for the sea. Sive O’Brien shows you how to look good on and off the surf.

THE TOWEL “Waiting” by Saltrock, €18,

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THE SANDAL Sling Sandal II Rio, €85,

THE TWO-PIECE Huit Summer Love bikini top, €64, & matching briefs, €44, at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

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THE SHORTS Orlebar Brown Swim shorts, €285,

THE TIMEPIECE Quiksilver Tide watch, €61,

THE PUMPS Timberland Earthkeepers Casco Bay boat shoes, €102 at Timberland, South Anne Street, Dublin 2

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The weekender

Frances Power packs her wellies for a whale watching stay at the Cliff House Hotel in Co Waterford. e are sitting on pillowy grass on Ram Head in Ardmore, Co Waterford. To our left and right are the headlands of Mine Head, Helvick Head and Knockadoon. There’s a strong wind blowing and down below us the wave tops are just turning white. Our leader, Andrew Malcolm, whale watcher and forager for the Cliff House Hotel, is gazing seawards through a powerful telescope. “Look for the gannets,” he says. “The whales drive fish to the surface so the birds follow the whales.” We strain into our binoculars. We are desperate to spot a fin, a flash of water glinting off the back of one of these huge creatures, even a plume of fishy vapour. So far, nothing. Whale watching is a bit like waiting for the 46a bus. Just the Monday before, Andrew says, he saw 200 bottle-nosed dolphins playing in the great sweep of bays and headlands to either side of us. He has spotted fin and minke whales, humpbacks, porpoises, dolphins, sea otters and seals on his regular stints for the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group (IWDG) at this spot. They follow the shoals of herring in from the sea. But


What to pack ... 1


conditions are too rough today. “You want a nice calm sea,” says Andrew, or it can be difficult to know whether you’re seeing a whale breach or white-topped waves catching the wind. According to IWDG sightings coordinator Pádraig Whooley, Ireland is a world-class place to spot these huge cetaceans. “For whale watching comparable to what we have along the Irish south coast, Sea views – the you would probably have to travel as however, Andrew spots plenty of Cliff House Hotel far north as Iceland or as far south other wild phenomena to satisfy us. in Ardmore. as the Azores.” The season runs Choughs, rare enough elsewhere for eight months of the year, from but wheeling around in great clouds June to January, when “Ireland here. Two types of wild garlic, one is an important roadside café” flat-leafed, one fleshy; two types TAKE as the whales travel south to of wild sorrel, an Irish version A BREAK the Caribbean or the Cape of wasabi, sea spinach, sea Whale watching guided Verde islands to breed. buckthorn. He tucks away by Andrew Malcolm can be Back on the cliff-top a few strands of sorrel and organised through the Cliff House the minutes tick by sea buckthorn too. “See if Hotel; two nights B&B, dinner at quietly. “There,” yells my you can spot these in your The House Restaurant, weekends eight-year-old – she’s been dinner tonight,” he says. from €630 for two sharing; watching through the Later back at the Cliff Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, binoculars provided by the House, we tuck into a Waterford, 024 87800; hotel. We see a sleek, dark dinner at Martijn Kajuiter’s thecliffhousehotel. shape slide through the water Michelin-starred restaurant. com. below. “A seal,” decides Andrew, We’ve been pacing ourselves all “or maybe an otter.” Whatever it week for it. It comes in wave after is, it’ll have to do for us spotters. wave of finely flavoured dishes. The whales and dolphins are dining Amuse-bouche served on a little tray elsewhere today. of pebbles. Black sole with a peppy On the walk back to the hotel, horse parsley sauce alongside an ode to that underrated vegetable, the cauliflower. A knockout chocolate plate with a glass of black porter. But best of all, Atlantic salmon prepared every which way (cured, preserved, 3 iced, marinated and a meltingly 4 good ballotine), and sculpted, rolled and wrapped into a fantastical Dr Seuss landscape. And there it is – a 1 Wellington boots, Hunter, €150 garnish of sea buckthorn, plunder at Arnotts 2 Soft shell jacket, from our walk. €120 at 3 Waterproof watch, Omega Seamaster Diver 300m, €3,300 at Weir & Sons, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 4 HT binoculars, Zeiss Victory, €1,699 at

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On August 24, the IWDG will hold an all-Ireland series of whale watching events guided by experts like Andrew and Pádraig; for details.

Tabhair an Baile Abhaile Catch up with the craic at home Make the TG4 player your home from home and catch up with all the best Irish news, entertainment, sport, music, comedy and drama whenever and wherever you want. The TG4 Player. Anytime. Anywhere.


Actress, singer, yogini, mum. On stage Ruth McGill may be drawn to characters with a manic sense of energy, but off-stage she’s no sloth herself. As she prepares for Twelfth Night at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre, she talks to Daragh Reddin about balancing work and play. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.


iven her yoga-toned frame and patrician good looks, Ruth McGill might strike the uninitiated as an actress with a somewhat limited range. Take a glance at almost any photograph in her portfolio and it’s easy to imagine the Donegal native playing, say, a blue-blooded sophisticate in Downton Abbey or a gin-quaffing silk stocking in a Noel Coward play; what may not be immediately obvious – if you haven’t had the good fortune to see her perform – is just what a versatile and eyewateringly hilarious comic presence she can be. In director Wayne Jordan’s production of Bertolt Brecht’s scabrous The Threepenny Opera at the Gate Theatre in Dublin last year, McGill gave a deliciously outré turn as Lucy Brown, the headstrong harpy fighting for the affections of crime lord Mack the Knife. With much crazed gurning and generous fist shaking, hers was the funniest and most animated performance in a show teeming with funny and animated performances. When I ask McGill had she any particular character in mind when she auditioned for the role, I’m only mildly surprised when she name-checks one Muttley, the canine side-kick to the villainous Dick Dastardly

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in the Hanna-Barbera cartoons as “one in a smorgasbord of inspirations”. She even gives a very respectable impersonation of the hapless mongrel, gnashing her teeth, mumbling and pummelling the air with clenched fists in mock outrage. “I remember that before going on stage I’d get in the zone by working myself up into a bit of a cartoon-ish rage and I found it really worked,” she says. “I’m certainly drawn to characters with a manic sense of energy and I’ve always had a great fondness for largerthan-life parts.” This wasn’t the first time director and longtime collaborator Wayne Jordan, whom McGill first met while a student on the prestigious Professional Acting Programme at Trinity College, had put the actress’s considerable talents – comic and otherwise – to good use. In Philip McMahon’s zany and exuberant Alice in Funderland, a satirical musical based loosely on the Lewis Carroll classic, McGill gave a riotous performance as a drug-addled Duchess who assists beleaguered Corkonian Alice on a tortuous journey through a garish Dublin underworld. “That’s a character I was particularly fond of,” she recalls. “I mean she was an absolute mess – heels too high, skirt too short, hair too big – and tottering about in a complete daze, but somehow loveable with it.”


In person, McGill – warm, chatty and unguarded – is the antithesis of the outsized eccentrics she plays so well on stage; she’ll doubtless bring much of this natural charm to the role of servant Maria in Shakespeare’s gender-bending comedy Twelfth Night at the Abbey Theatre in Dublin (from April 25 to May 24), with Jordan once again at the helm. In a play filled with po-faced, lovelorn toffs, Maria is a welcome comic foil, but McGill, who is set to start rehearsals only days after we speak, plans to approach the role with a sense of restraint. “I really don’t want to be considered the go-to actress for being mad on stage,” she laughs, “so I’m looking forward to the challenge of handling the part in a slightly different way. Maria’s very unruly but she’s also very cluedin and I want to explore that. I’m particularly interested in how she advances in status by the end of the play by marrying up, and the question of whether or not she’s a social climber. “There’s a lot of mistaken identity and cross-dressing in Twelfth Night and I think it’s fascinating in the way it explores ideas of sex and the way gender informs how we behave and interact. That seems very modern to me and very relevant.” Given her accomplishments both as an actor and musician – as a classically trained soprano she has worked under the venerable Veronica Dunne – you might be forgiven for thinking performing is in McGill’s blood, but nothing could be further from the truth. “My family couldn’t be any more different,” she says, when I ask if she’s from acting stock. “My brother’s a taxation accountant; my sister’s a solicitor; my mum taught business studies; my dad is in business.”

McGill’s beloved mother passed away seven years ago – “she was my biggest fan in the world and always incredibly supportive” – but it’s obvious that the unwavering parental support she received from an early age has stood her well. Although she was no latter-day Shirley Temple – “I wasn’t really a showy child” – McGill did develop a penchant early in life for “singing and doing funny accents”. Indeed it was by deploying a funny accent that she came to make one of her first, and most inauspicious, forays into theatre. “This is embarrassing,” she chuckles. “In our secondary school in Ardara [rural Donegal] we did a musical every two years. I got the part of Annie in Annie Get Your Gun one year and then went for the part of Sandy in Grease. I hadn’t really read the script and presumed that the character, like Olivia Newton-John in the movie version, was from Australia, not America. I got the part but I hadn’t realised the filmmakers had taken liberties with the original Sandy, so I was

In Philip McMahon’s Alice in Funderland, Ruth – seen here with, left, Sarah Greene – played a drug-addled duchess, a character she particularly liked – “heels too high, skirt too sort, hair too big, but somehow loveable.”

“I played the mother of a sick child in The Clinic, and went into labour in Damo & Ivor. Jeez, can I not be the sexy one for once!” 38 |


rocking an Aussie accent in the role for no particular reason. No one told me any different so I went with it.” McGill has certainly come a long way since. Not only has she worked with the aforementioned Jordan on several well-received shows for the Abbey, the Gate and the Project Arts Centre, she’s become a regular fixture in productions for Corn Exchange, the Dublin-based theatre company renowned internationally for their Commedia dell’arte approach and for championing a highly expressive performance style. “When I was starting out as an actor I did a two-day workshop with Corn Exchange,” McGill explains. “After a day I was convinced I was the worst actor in the world because I wasn’t happy with how I’d performed but, by day two, things had improved.” They certainly had: only a few short weeks later Annie Ryan, director of the company, rang McGill out of the blue and offered her a part in Tennessee Williams’s Cat on a Hot Tin Roof at the Gate Theatre. Further success with the company followed, with the actress receiving rhapsodic reviews for her performance in Freefall, Michael West’s poignant, psychological drama set against the backdrop of boom-to-bust Ireland. Although she hasn’t worked as extensively in TV and film as she has


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horrified. “I don’t foresee myself moving away and I much prefer building up relationships with Irish directors and letting them grow. I’m not in any great rush. People here have helped me flourish and it has felt special. I think it’s the work that’s important and I’m genuinely happy to stay put.” Far from paying

Next up? Ruth plays a maths whizz in a crowdfunded short.

lip-service, it’s obvious the deeply grounded and pragmatic actress believes in what she says. In any event, as a single mother with a seven-year-old boy to care for and a homegrown career in rude health, it’s understandable McGill is more than content on Irish shores. Still, I’m curious to know how she manages to find time to sleep, given her parenting/acting/ singing commitments. “I think I’ve managed to find a balance but it takes time. Charlie’s at an age where he’s settled in himself; his father – who’s also an actor – has been supportive of me and I’m supportive of him, so we have a good system.” She looks at me a little sheepishly and smiles: “I have to admit though: just last week I got a lovely au pair.” Phew, this indefatigable talent is human after all. Twelfth Night runs at the Abbey Theatre in Dublin from April 25 to May 24; The Evertides play Dublin’s Chancery Lane Theatre from June 12 to 14;

The likes of Ruth McGill … DUBLIN “I love Wall & Keogh, below right, in Portobello (45 Richmond Street South; for a nice pot of matcha tea or a slice of their matcha cake which is yummy. I like No Name Bar (3 Fade Street) for a cocktail and I love Rustic Stone, below left, (17 South Great George’s Street; rusticstone. ie). I like their super healthyy stuff. I’m training to become a yoga teacher in September, so I’m trying to be good.”


MUSIC “I’ve recently come across an amazing Norwegian singer named Susanne Sundfør. She’s an incredibly gifted musician and has utterly bowled me over. I’d recommend anyone with an interest in music to check her out on Spotify. I’m addicted to Spotify and when I’m at a computer you’ll always catch me on it.” TV “I don’t watch a lot of TV but I’m a Grand Designs addict and I have a total crush on Kevin McCloud ... If I feel like a bit of a laugh it’s Portlandia or Curb Your Enthusiasm.” AUDIO BOOKS “I don’t get a lot of time t. to read but I do listen to audio books a lot. her I love Tara Brach. She’s a Buddhist teacher ek who delivers an hour-long talk every week called Audio Dharma, which is then made available online at Her talks are basically motivational and about encouraging listeners into getting into a good space. At different times in my life I’ve thought I needed to centre myself a little more, or get a bit more confidence in myself, and I found these very helpful.”


in theatre, McGill has enjoyed the screen roles – however minor – that have come her way; that said, she admits to being somewhat bemused at finding herself typecast. “I played the mother of a sick child in The Clinic; I was a midwife helping Aoibhinn McGinnity give birth in Love/Hate and was in labour myself in Damo & Ivor. Jeez, can I not be the sexy one for once!” she laughs. Next up – and true to form – she plays a bespectacled genius in Paddy Scahill’s crowdfunded short film Miscalculation, which she describes as one of her most heartening roles to date. “It’s a comedy set in 1980s Dublin and I’m a maths whizz named Nuala who has invented the square-root function on a calculator. I have a crazy Gaeilgoir flatmate named Donnchadh, played by Neil Watkins, whom I’ve met in a past life and, well, let’s just say it all gets very strange and I spent most of the shoot corpsing.” With rehearsals for Twelfth Night only days away, I presume McGill is heading home for some welldeserved rest and relaxation after our interview. I’m wrong, of course. She’s about to catch a train to Galway to perform a concert with her band, The Evertides. Formed in 2011 with pals Alma Kelliher and Ruth Smith, the accomplished vocal-harmonies group – who are already becoming fixtures on the Dublin live circuit – are hoping to record a debut EP later this year. “We were friends for a long time before we became a group and have similar tastes in music, so it was all very organic,” McGill says. “We do a few folk standards like ‘Scarlet Ribbons’ but we also like to push the boundaries a little and we’ve even covered a Hozier track live. When we performed in Dublin last year I was surprised that it was the stuff we’d written ourselves that seemed to get the warmest response, so that’s something we hope to factor in when we finally get to record.” Ireland has clearly been good to McGill in terms of theatre opportunities but I wonder has she ever considered emigrating to London or LA in the hopes of making it as a star? She looks






hen is tradition not tradition? Irish traditional music has been experiencing a significant shift in momentum recently, thanks to an upsurge in highly imaginative, innovative collaborations – some of which are prodding the boundaries of traditional music with intent. Instrumental music is at the heart of our tradition, with much of it rooted in dance, whether sean nós (“old style”), céilí or set dancing. The uilleann pipes still hold sway as a symbol of our musical identity, with their plaintive sound and orchestral ability to build an entire edifice beneath a tune. But alongside the pipes, a cacophony of other instruments has helped shape our music. Fiddle, concertina, accordion and even the errant banjo (a late import from Africa, by way of the southern United States) have all played their part in excavating the inherent beauty of our tunes, and the solo voice, always the focus of rapt attention at house parties, has forged its own keen identity in the mix. There’s no shortage of opportunities to hear the music in its threedimensional glory either. This summer’s highlights include the Willie Clancy Summer School in Miltown Malbay, Co Clare, from July 5-13

(, where music classes reign supreme. Clare is also home to Doolin Folk Festival from June 13-15 (doolinfolkfestival. com). In Dublin, one of the annual highlights of traditional singing is the Frank Harte Festival, which runs from September 26-28 ( As the late Harte said himself: “Those in power write the history, those who suffer write the songs” – and there are an awful lot of songs in Ireland. Recent collaborations have played no small part in re-invigorating Irish traditional music. Possibly the most significant impact can be felt in the ripple effects of The Gloaming. Founded by renowned Clare fiddler Martin Hayes and singer/musician Iarla Ó Lionáird, The Gloaming draw deep from the well of Irish traditional music, but by dint of exceptional musicianship and an uncanny shared intuition, they put just enough space between the notes to breathe fresh life into old tunes, not to mention bold thinking into the poems that they’ve transformed into songs. Truth be told, when you’re the master of your own instrument, the oldest, most time-worn tunes find a fresh footing and the newly minted ones have no trouble reaching the bar set by their ancestors. Old and new colliding: that’s what keeps the pulse of Irish music beating so vigorously.

On theBEAT

Today’s traditional Irish musicians are breathing new life into old tunes, writes Siobhán Long. And their music resounds around the world, from festivals at home to tours in the US and China. Photographs by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan. 42 |


Niamh Ní Charra Fiddle

How do you make the leap from electronic engineering to principal fiddler with Riverdance? Fiddler, concertina player and Killarney native Niamh Ní Charra recognises serendipity when she sees it now, having been spotted while playing in a session in a Boston bar many years ago. It was that chance encounter that led to her being head hunted from her software engineering role for Riverdance. Since returning home, Ní Charra has set about reinventing herself as a solo performer, with two instruments – fiddle and concertina – vying for attention. Her recent album, a tribute to the immigrant Kerry concertina and accordion player and tune composer Terry “Cuz” Teahan, has extended her fanbase on both sides of the Atlantic. Santa Claus was responsible for Ní Charra’s introduction to the concertina at the age of four, a practical substitute for her ambitious request for a set of uilleann pipes. The fiddle followed fast and the tunes tumbled over one another. Ní Charra recognises that the renowned accordion sound of her native Sliabh Luachra has inevitably influenced her bowing style on the fiddle, with its dance-driven, rhythmic qualities. Recently she premiered a specially commissioned piece for concertina and string quartet by Colm Ó Foghlú, called “Suantraí na hInise/Island Lullaby”, a commemoration of the 60th anniversary of the evacuation of the Blasket Islands off the coast of West Kerry. “It’s been an incredible journey really,” Ní Charra adds. “Not knowing what’s around the corner is a huge part of the fun of being a musician.” Niamh Ní Charra embarks on her first tour of China on May 8;


David Howley Banjo

“Life’s far too short to take yourself too seriously,” David Howley declares, with the knowing look of a 22-year-old (with an 85-year-old body, he insists, thanks to some gruelling touring schedules over the past year). His band, We Banjo 3, have been whipping up a storm with their mix of Irish traditional, American Old Timey and Appalachian music. The band is a musical Betty Ford clinic, almost singlehandedly rehabilitating the much-maligned banjo in four short years. Along with his brother, Martin, and another pair of brothers, Enda and Fergal Scahill, We Banjo 3 have taken the music they grew up with by the scruff of the neck and run a number one blade across its jaw line, revealing in the process a sharp-edged sound that led to one young fan recently declaring to Howley that We Banjo 3 were “much better than One Direction”. With much of the US folk circuit now eating out of the palm of their hands, Howley and We Banjo 3 plan to take their locally made Clareen banjos ( with their crisp, clean sound to Japan and South America in the coming year. For Howley, playing the banjo is all about having fun, and, it is hoped, “taking the blinkers off” for some listeners who may previously have written all Irish music off as “diddly-eye”. It was what happened to him when he first heard Gerry O’Connor and Béla Fleck play: “I couldn’t believe my ears!” he says with a canyon-wide grin. David Howley and We Banjo 3 tour Ireland from April 23 to May 9;

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Emer Mayock Pipes

Pipes, flute and whistle all jostle for space in Emer Mayock’s kit bag. A native of Mayo, she’s never shied away from experimentation, working extensively as a solo artist, but pursuing roads less travelled with the Afro Celts, with Francesco Turrisi’s jazz/world music hybrid, Tarab, and now, with fellow piper Mick O’Brien and fiddler Aoife Ní Bhriain, on the trio’s album: Tunes from The Goodman Manuscripts. Based on the collected tunes of a 19th-century Church of Ireland canon, James Goodman, Mayock describes the adventure of opening his manuscripts as akin to “opening a massive volume of poetry, and finding something new every time”. She has recently shifted her focus back from the flute to the pipes, since she received a customised set made by Japanese pipemaker Makoto Nakatsui last year. Mayock is relishing the chance to acquaint herself with such a beautiful instrument, which is crafted from a rare wood grown in South America and Mexico, known as Ziricote, and designed, engineered and “lovingly made” to the highest standard. Access to the right instrument is crucial to her collaborative work. “If you’re not satisfied with what you’re doing on your instrument, you’re not going to be able to give of anything to another player,” she figures. It’s both the foundation stone and the springboard for everything else. “These days, as well as playing, I teach students, and I’m loving it. It’s not just to put the beans on the toast. I love watching and helping students becoming musicians.” Emer Mayock, along with Mick O’Brien and Aoife Ní Bhriain, will receive the TG4 Gradam Ceoil Award for Musical Collaboration on April 12 at a ceremony in the University of Limerick;

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012


ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.


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Edel Fox Concertina

“I’ve always had a very strong sense of place,” says Edel Fox. She’s a native of that Mecca of Irish music, Miltown Malbay, the birthplace of renowned piper Willie Clancy. She counts herself lucky to have grown up in a county renowned for its concertina music, and learned much from her idol and teacher, concertina master Noel Hill. Back in the days before curfews for children on licensed premises, Fox could attend sessions in pubs, accompanied by her father, an experience she now describes as formative. “Playing with and meeting people of all ages has stood me in good stead throughout my life,” she reckons. Fox’s 2013 album, The Sunny Banks, recorded with fiddler Neill Byrne, was voted Traditional Album of the Year by That small, perfectly formed instrument, the concertina, with its tiny buttons and intriguing bellows, captivated Fox from the age of four. The instrument’s ability to emulate various instruments, and in particular the fiddle, intrigued her and, to this day, she considers the pairing of concertina and fiddle to be her “all time favourite combination”. She’s recently qualified as a music therapist, a journey that taught her anew how to listen to the musicality of what she was playing. This has had an impact too on how she performs. “I was subconsciously categorising tunes according to how they made me feel,” she says. “Now, I listen much more too and it’s really made a difference to how I play.” Edel Fox’s CD, The Sunny Banks, with Neill Byrne, is available from

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Iarla Ó Lionáird


“I was always singing when I was young. Singing when I was milking the cows, when I was in the car with my parents,” says Iarla Ó Lionáird, smiling as he recounts his earliest musical memories. Although he has possibly the most distinctive voice of his generation, he’s more comfortable with the job title of “musician” (as it states on his passport) than he is with that of “singer”. From singing throughout his boyhood with his own local choir in Cúl Aodha (on the Cork/Kerry border), to working with the Afro Celts and now with The Gloaming, Ó Lionáird has refused to be boxed in. This journey from sean nós singing to song composition and collaboration is coloured by his search for space. “As long as there’s space, your creative engine senses that there’s somewhere else to go. It compels you to move forward and to forever seek out your best. You become a searcher as you perform, rather than a finisher.” He admits to a lure that constantly draws him towards that horizon where he senses a light. It is “an evanescent thing” that he can’t depend on for a second, yet it has never failed him on his musical odyssey. “I tried on a pair of shoes in my imagination as a child: those of a musician, and it turned out that by the time I reached 49, they were a good fit. And I really love that: what’s happened to my life,” Ó Lionáird admits. “I’m very thankful that that’s happened to me.” Iarla Ó Lionáird plays Carnegie Hall, New York, on April 24 and 27;


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Bryan O’Leary Accordion

Sliabh Luachra is a place of almost mythical proportions. Straddling the Cork/Kerry/Limerick borders, it has a regional style all its own. Accordions and fiddles are the trademark instruments of the area, and polkas and slides are its bread and butter. One of the finest exponents of Sliabh Luachra music was the late Johnny O’Leary. His grandson, Bryan O’Leary, is this year’s TG4 Young Traditional Musician of the Year, and he’s under no illusions as to the root of his love for this music. “I’ve no doubt at all that if it wasn’t for my grandfather, I probably wouldn’t be playing the accordion,” O’Leary says. “In fact, if he’d played the fiddle instead of the accordion, chances are that would be the instrument I’d play now too.” At 20 years of age, and still a student at the Irish World Academy of Music at the University of Limerick, O’Leary bemoans the shift in emphasis from the musician and the tunes to the dancer in recent years. These days, he reckons, musicians jump to the beat of the dancer’s drum, whereas decades ago the opposite was true. That’s why he prefers to play in sessions with other musicians, rather than for dancers. He loves riding “the lift and bounce of the tune” and those polkas and slides of his home place never fail to keep him in their thrall. The future? “I’m just hoping that music will always play a big part in my life,” he says, with gentlemanly restraint.

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Bryan O’Leary will receive the TG4 Gradam Ceoil Young Traditional Musician of the Year Award 2014 on April 12 at a concert in the University Concert Hall, University of Limerick; gradam-ceoil-tg4-awards


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With Limerick City of Culture 2014 in full swing, there is no shortage of shows and sights to wow the visitor. Novelist Donal Ryan delights in his adopted city. Photographs by Al Higgins.

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The ancient river city of Limerick – mapped by Ptolemy, sacked by Vikings, and guarded now by St John’s Castle, above.


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imerick is an ancient river city. Ptolemy mapped it in the third century; Saint Munchin founded a monastery there in the seventh century. Vikings burned the monastery of Mungret and sacked the city in the ninth century, but they were attacked by the Irish and forced to retreat far fewer in number. King’s Island is the original settlement, hemmed by the Abbey and Shannon rivers. King John’s Castle sits there now, built in the twelfth century and surviving largely intact. There’s a toughness of character, an indomitable spirit in its people that marks Limerick out among western European cities. The city has stood against Vikings and Norsemen, Cromwellian and Williamite armies; it declared itself an independent soviet in 1919, issued its own currency and faced down an Empire. But there’s also a softness to Limerick that’s not immediately evident. It takes a few hours to wash over you. It’s in the murmur of the Shannon and the gentle mists that roll in and out from the estuary, in the musical lilt of the people’s voices, in their innate kindness. Limerick is the friendliest of cities; people look out for each other and for strangers. It’s a city full of music and theatre and art and good old-fashioned craic. It’s a relaxed and inviting place, where visitors can take their ease: there’s no mad rush-hour trample, no fevered, wearying mercantile hustle. I’ve lived in Limerick since


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“Limerick is the friendliest of cities; people look out for each other and for strangers. It’s a city full of music and theatre and art and good old-fashioned craic.”



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I was first a student at 18. I couldn’t afford buses or bicycles and so walked everywhere. I’d only really seen O’Connell Street as a child, tramping its length on shopping trips with my parents, only deviating from a straight line for short distances and hasty lunches before rushing home to Nenagh in Co Tipperary. I didn’t know how beautiful the city was until I walked from the north to the south of it; I couldn’t believe what I hadn’t seen, what I hadn’t known. I lived for years in Clareview on the north side, in the shadow of

the Gaelic Grounds. Then I lived on Mallow Street for a while, in the city centre, in a top-floor apartment. I could see the Shannon; seagulls rested on our windowsill; I wrote half a novel there in peace. We were only seconds from the Belltable Theatre and the Whitehouse Pub. It was a wrench, leaving the city for the suburbs, but Castletroy is only minutes from town. The film adaptation of Frank McCourt’s Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir, Angela’s Ashes, while fabulously shot, was unkind to

Previous page, writer Donal Ryan has never considered living anywhere else; St Munchin’s Church sitting proud on the banks of the Shannon. This page, left, Maeve Aherne of The Sage Café, the go-to place for a long lunch; above, architectural heritage – Limerick’s redbrick terraces.

Limerick’s physical image. It’s not always raining – they had to hire giant rain-machines and run them non-stop to create the drenched, downtrodden vistas of the movie, as the heavens above Limerick would not oblige. To walk in the footsteps of the great Frank McCourt, however, is to see the real heart of Limerick, to look at the city through his boyish eyes: the haughty Georgian dwellings that cast their long shadows across the lanes; the churches and streets and schools and the remnants of the tenements that shaped his view of the world; the places that tormented and fascinated him, that moulded his soul and gave rise to one of the most beautiful books ever written. Frank often returned to his hometown in his later years and expressed his abiding affection for it. I met him once: he

Eat at ... COMFORTING Brew Bros in Castletroy do an amazing breakfast and excellent burgers. Have a slice of their home-made apple pie after breakfast. Go on, you’re on your holidays. (Dublin Road, 061 335 111; CHARMING The Sage Café is a stylish gourmet eatery, one of the very best in Ireland. (Catherine Street, 061 409 458; BUZZY Marco Polo is a large, bustling restaurant; high quality and excellent value. (O’Connell Street, 061 412 888; BONA FIDE Bella Italia is one of my favourite Italian restaurants: warm, inviting and authentic. (Thomas Street, 061 418 872;

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was sitting on a deck chair in front of a trestle table on the street, quietly collecting for People in Need. I was teenaged, tongue-tied, too awed and shy to speak to him, and will always regret it. I dropped my coins in his bucket, he smiled kindly and I walked red-faced away. I came from a Gaelic house; I’d never been to a live rugby match until I moved to the city. Limerick is the only European city to be home to three top-flight rugby teams. Thomond Park, (Old Cratloe Road; the home of the mighty, all-conquering Munster, is a sight to behold. Dominating the skyline on the city’s north side, it’s within easy reach of the city centre. Walk over Sarsfield Bridge to the

Clockwise from right, visible above the Limerick skyline, Thomond Park, home to mighty Munster, scene of epic battles and famous victories; Donnchadh Tiernan of Marco Polo; Cornstore Restaurant of Thomas Street, ready for action.

Stay at ... COMFORTING The George is a bijou hotel right in the city centre, recently refurbished and very well-priced. Rooms from €70. (112 O’Connell Street, 061 460 400; SPA No.1 Pery Square is a gorgeous hotel and spa in the Georgian quarter, overlooking the People’s Park. B&B from €165. (1 Pery Square, Georgian Quarter, 061 402 402; CENTRAL The Limerick Strand Hotel sits on the Shannon’s north bank in the city centre, B&B from €120 (Ennis Road, 061 421 800; strandhotellimerick. ie); the Clarion, rooms from €80 (Steamboat Quay, 061 444 100; is on the opposite bank – both are excellently located and, on clear days, offer views across five counties.

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A great day out … For me, it would start with breakfast in Brew Bros in Castletroy, my local restaurant where the promise to serve a “proper” full Irish is truly fulfilled. Then we’d bus it into town or, weather permitting, follow the walkway from the university along the river, for a browse in O’Mahony’s on O’Connell Street, a cavernous but welcoming independent bookshop where an hour or two can melt soundlessly away. Limerick’s city centre is small and easily traversed on foot. The walk from the Limerick City Gallery of Art ( in the Carnegie Building on Pery Square to the world-renowned Hunt Museum ( on Rutland Street takes about 20 minutes and takes you across the heart of the city. There’s a soothing quality to the fall of light in both buildings, to the lay of the floors and the quiet splendour of the exhibits. They’re lovely places to be. We’d have a long, late lunch in Marco Polo or The Sage Café or Bella Italia, go to a show in any of the unexpected venues used by the dynamic independent theatre companies, have a pint in Myles Breen’s on Shannon Street or the Whitehouse on O’Connell Street, and laugh. It’s easy to have a laugh in Limerick; it’s easy to be happy here.

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Left, pageturner – a browse at O’Mahony’s cavernous bookshop or a visit to the Hunt museum, below, make the hours melt away.

Ennis Road, take the first right after Richard Harris’s old house, and you’re on the road to Thomond. The atmosphere at a home game has to be experienced to be fully appreciated. From the ghostly hush that descends for spot-kicks to the almighty roar as the Red Army attacks the line, it’s one of the most hallowed places in the world of sport; the scene of epic battles, of famous victories, of drama and legend; and a place where honour, respect and fair play are valued as highly as victory. There’s music and poetry in the soul of Limerick, a beautiful, effortless artistry that rises naturally like the Shannon tide. The many

small, independent theatre companies that strive and sometimes prosper here give expression to this innate creative bent. Theatre companies such as Bottom Dog (, Teaspach and Orchard Theatre (orchardtc. com) regularly stage high-quality productions. Bottom Dog’s recent production of Tom MacIntyre’s What Happened Bridgie Cleary was an elemental, immersive experience; terrifying, savage, brilliant. I could hardly speak after it. If your visit to Limerick coincides with a Bottom Dog production, do not miss it. With Limerick City of Culture in full swing throughout 2014


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(, it shouldn’t be difficult to find something to be wowed by. Bill Whelan’s Riverdance rose here; poets, playwrights and novelists walk the streets; the light of creativity shines on the greyest of days. Kevin Barry, one of the greatest writers of the modern age, is a Limerick city man. A canting, singsong Limerick lilt echoes through his beautiful prose. Novelist, playwright and journalist Kate O’Brien was a native too, and her life and work are commemorated yearly at the Limerick Literary Festival held in her honour. Some of the biggest names in literature have appeared at the festival over the years. This year’s line-up in February included Sebastian Barry, Anne Enright and Frank McGuinness.

“There’s a soothing quality to the fall of light in both buildings, to the lay of the floors and the quiet splendour of the exhibits.” Above, Liam O’Brien of Bottom Dog, one of the small independent theatre companies that spark local productions into life. Left, work by Irish sculptor Michael Warren at the Limerick City Gallery of Art and, right, Shannon views.

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Don’t miss these cultural highlights ...


EVA INTERNATIONAL Ireland’s biennial of contemporary art returns for its 36th outing, at which more than 50 Irish and international artists exhibit their wares from April 12 until July 6 across Limerick. Curated by Egypt’s Bassam El Baroni, its theme is Agitationism – a reference to a concept by philosopher Immanuel Kant – with featured talent including Turner Prize winner Elizabeth Price (UK), Humberto Velez (Panama) and the late Patrick Jolley (Northern Ireland). SPECIAL OLYMPICS IRELAND Team spirits will be high from June 12-15 when 1,500 Special Olympians from across the


length and breadth of Ireland will descend on Limerick to compete for glory. There are 13 sports competitions over three days, and a noncompetitive, motor activities strand for just-for-the-heckof-it fun. HAPPENINGS There’s no use fighting the Irish weather, far better to embrace it. Which is exactly what Dublin-based events company Happenings does – register at its website, Twitter or Facebook page to receive weather-permitting notifications on the next open-air cinema, gigs, talks and children’s activities. Last year, film screenings were held in Granby Park, Christ Church Cathedral and Fumbally Café


in Dublin – now it’s Limerick’s turn to tune into Happenings’, er, happenings, from June 1 until late August. LIMERICK CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL & DIGITAL YOUTH MEDIA FESTIVAL Dance, song, performances, and art installations – we defy any kiddie to be bored during October’s Limerick Children’s Festival (dates TBC). Meanwhile, budding young Zuckerbergs should be gently nudged in the direction of the Digital Youth Media Festival on October 1. A two-day think-tank helping youngsters create and celebrate all-things digital media, there’ll be interactive workshops, panel discussions


and potential careers advice across the worlds of animation, digital art/film/ gaming, multimedia and app design. FAUST If the tickets sell out, you may well consider selling your soul to see this immersive piece of total theatre from Romanian company National Theatre “Radu Stanca” Sibiu. Having previously shockand-awed audiences at the Edinburgh Festival, Faust’s 100-strong crew of actors and musicians will offer audiences a spectacle, rather than mere spectatorship, as they follow a loose adaptation of Goethe’s narrative. Runs October 30 to November 1 at The Culture Factory.



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The University Concert Hall ( at the University of Limerick, on the city’s southern edge, and the Lime Tree Theatre (limetreetheatre. ie) at Mary Immaculate College, near the city centre, stage concerts and productions all year round. The University Arena stages bigger shows and Thomond Park has hosted such massive acts as Elton John, Pink and Bruce Springsteen. Dolan’s Warehouse ( on the Dock Road is a magical place, a bastion of eclecticism. Three of the best gigs I was ever at were in Dolan’s: David Gray, Damien Dempsey and Paddy Casey. The raucous, subversive, hilarious YouTube kings, The Rubberbandits, call Dolan’s home. Literally anyone could be on the bill. For such an ancient place there’s a youthful vibrancy about Limerick. It’s a city worth experiencing. I’ve been living here almost 20 years and have never considered living anywhere else. Donal Ryan’s debut novel, The Spinning Heart, was longlisted for the 2013 Man Booker Prize. His latest book is The Thing About December.

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Musician and thrift shop owner David Irwin of Lucky Lane on Catherine Street, above, and right, Lime Tree Theatre, a yearround venue for the arts.

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Forbes Magazine has just ranked Ireland as the best country in the whole world for business! No wonder leading global companies like Google, Apple, Intel, Pfizer, IBM, Boston Scientific, & Medtronic employ thousands of people across Ireland. However there are so many companies expanding in Europe who don’t know the advantages of locating in Ireland. If they did know the advantages, they too might open a base here, creating much needed jobs. Now, ConnectIreland, a program backed by the Irish Government, through the Department of Jobs and the IDA, and launched by An Taoiseach Enda Kenny, is seeking your help to find more companies (& jobs) for Ireland.

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The program is very easy. Simply join up & share the message, asking your friends do they know of a company that’s expanding into or around Europe. The ConnectIreland team will contact that company, and explain the reasons why they should locate in Ireland. If they create Irish jobs, you will have done something amazing for Ireland. In appreciation, you will receive a €10,000 government reward for you or your preferred charity.

Several months later, Hugh was showing properties to a potential buyer looking for a holiday home in the Boyne Valley area. As they travelled from property to property, they got talking, and Hugh heard about a smart Canadian firm named Mafic SA, which was expanding to Europe. At that moment, Hugh remembered the ConnectIreland program and sent them an email to introduce Mafic SA as a potential new company for Ireland. ConnectIreland did the rest, explaining the incentives, hosting introductions, and making the case for Ireland as the perfect location for Mafic SA’s international expansion.

Mafic SA agreed, and several months later Mafic decided to locate their new European factory plus 70 high quality jobs in Kells, Co. Meath. At the launch of Mafic’s new factory, Ireland’s Minister for Jobs, Richard Bruton thanked Hugh for the key role he played in helping to bring the 70 jobs to Ireland. Since launching in 2012, people worldwide have introduced ConnectIreland to more than a hundred expanding companies, maybe planning a small European sales office, or a research lab or even something bigger. By the end of March 20 companies will have opened operations in Ireland through the program, all thanks to people who are playing their part for Ireland.


Martin Sheen, Saoirse Ronan, Michael Flatley & Mícheál Ó Muircheartaigh are among the Global Irish Stars helping to attract expanding companies into Ireland.

Why Ireland? Smart companies realise the business advantages of locating in Ireland. Ireland is the European home for many of the world’s leading companies, including 8 of the top 10 pharma companies, 4 of the top 5 busiest websites, 9 of the top 10 medical device companies, and 10 of the world’s top 10 technology companies. Why are so many leading companies here? What do they know that others don’t yet know? One key reason rests with the Irish people. Lonely Planet Guidebooks has voted Ireland as the friendliest country in the whole world – twice, in the past 5 years. According to a global report published by the United Nations in April 2012, Ireland ranks in the top 10 happiest nations!

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What you can do now Ireland also has the youngest population and the highest proportion of 3rd level graduates in the EU. IMD ranks Ireland first in the world for the availability of skilled labour. Forbes Magazine has included five Irish people in their ‘Global 30 under 30 List’. Ireland has a highly skilled and talented workforce. This is one of the key reasons why Ireland is a fantastic location for business. Now, with your help, we can attract more expanding companies, and create more jobs in Ireland. Once introduced, we will help that company learn all of the benefits and financial incentives that are available for locating in Ireland. We’ll help them with Introductions and provide a free support service to help them establish in Ireland.

2 Share Our Message “Hi Everyone, I’ve joined the ConnectIreland program to help attract companies & jobs to Ireland. If you know of any companies that are expanding in Europe, please let me know.”

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Implementing the Succeed in Ireland initiative, part of the Irish Government’s Action Plan for Jobs, in association with IDA Ireland. 14 St Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Ireland


Think Ibiza is the preserve of clubbers? Think again. Liz Dwyer returns to the scene of many a teenage rave to see how it, and the neighbouring island of Formentera, rate when there’s a toddler in tow. Photographs by David Sciora and Piotr Dybowski.


b a B h wit

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Opposite page, local landmark Cap de Barbaria on Formentera. This page, beach bliss with baby – Liz Dwyer, centre, with toddler Charlie and husband Aengus McCarthy.


he last time I set foot on Ibiza, I arrived with £200 in my pocket, an appetite for adventure and a rucksack full of hot pants. It turned out to be all I needed to see me through the summer of 1997, when Ibiza – Nirvana for my 19-year-old self – was a fantastical haze of clubs, cocktails and college friends. I worked through my hangovers in a plastic Irish bar by day and chased cult DJs around the superclubs by night. It was epic. Fast-forward 17 years, and I return to my former stomping ground with the husband and a toddler in tow, and a mountain of luggage stuffed with baby paraphernalia. While signing up for our rental car, our curious 18-monthold son, Charlie, managed to wander into Cathy and David Guetta’s club lounge at the redeveloped airport. With its chrome fit-out, cool tunes and champagne-sipping clientele,


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it was the first red flag that Ibiza was not the dropout outpost I left back in the 1990s. As we drove up the dust path to the eerily quiet Can Planells (Sant Miquel de Balansat, +34 9714 334 924;, the agroturismo we had booked for our first two nights, my sister’s words rang in my head. “You’re staying on a farm! In Ibiza! That’s miles away from a beach or a club? You need your head seen to!” We had wanted to stay somewhere tame but tasteful, somewhere that tolerated toddlers,

Calm waters – Cala Xarraca Beach, above, off-duty mum Liz, left, and below, the upmarket agr agroturisme estate of Can Planells.

around the main towns and The Ibiza Tourist Board has ten offices scattered than willing to let you villages, manned by super helpful staff who are more tracks, tapas bars and local in on the lesser-known cultural hotspots, walking markets, so be sure to tap this fantastic resource.

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– liked them even – and friends with babies had raved about north Ibiza. They promised we’d revel in its beauty and balmy climate (especially in late September when we were visiting) and so we ended up bedding down in the modernised duplex wing of a classic Balearic villa. Agroturismos in Ibiza are being heavily marketed to “the returnee”, aka former clubbers, like me, who come back en familie, looking for a grown-up version of their glory days. Under normal circumstances,

I’d rather eat my liver than spend my holidays on a farm. My day job is beauty editor on IMAGE magazine. I don’t do animals, fields or mountains. I do sun loungers, beach clubs, sail boats and boozy lunches, or rather I did, pre baby, but having had a disastrous and rather dangerous beach holiday in Portugal the previous summer, it was a toss-up between a Eurotrash hotel replete with family clubs and all-you-can-eat buffets, or getting down and dirty with the pigs. When we awoke the following morning to the sight of azure sky, peachy cliffs and sun-drenched SITTING vines sweeping down to the PRETTY infinity pool, things started Taxis in Ibiza are exempt from to look up. And as we joined the law requiring child/booster the bunch of international seats, and presenting your charges at guests under the olive trees for a rank or at the airport will be unlikely a morning banquet of fresh to prompt drivers to produce them. figs, avocados and coffee, the Pre-book with Ibiza-airportterm farm suddenly seemed, which provides rather inaccurate. A stunning seats at €3 each country manor perched over an per journey. agricultural estate would be a more apt description, and the only sight of muck or animals was in fact Charlie running around the vines happily chasing the household cat. So far, so bliss, but we’d hardly had a dip in the gloriously cool pool when the daily nap saga was soon upon us. We don’t follow a strict schedule at home but if he’s not down by lunchtime, we pay the price. Midday naps become the bane of our holidays because we need to be near the cot (the buggy never quite cuts it in the heat) and thus any day trip, or beach visit, was curtailed until he awoke around 2pm. But here’s where the agroturismo trumps other accommodation options for a young family – in terms of security, they’re in the middle of nowhere, with no passing foot traffic other than the few resident guests, they’re run by kind Less of a farm, families who float around keeping a and more of a country estate, weather eye on their tiny guests, and Can Planells the pools, terraces and sun decks are offers an infinity only a stone’s throw from your very pool, glam duplex secure room. This meant we could accommodation lounge outside in the gardens only a and alfresco breakfast few metres away, catching some rays, banquets. while he safely caught his zzzs.

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We had only just settled into the languid Can Planells mode, when we set off again the following day. Ibiza’s boon (or downfall, depending on your perspective) is that nowhere is more than a short drive away, and tucked in the northeast corner of the island is another gem of an agroturismo, Can Gall (Ctra. San Juan;, a magnificent converted 200-year-old farmhouse. We had planned to down bags and hit the nearest beach on arrival, val, but as soon as we caught sight of the infinity pool swathed in bougainvillea and palm trees, with a cute straw honesty bar, oodles of vacant sun-loungers and Bob Marley crooning in the background, it was a case of why bother? It was our wedding anniversary that day, and we passed the most glorious afternoon, just st the three of us dancing around nd the bar, dipping in and out of the pool and trying to teach our toddler some reggae riffs. The fantastic owners of Can Gall, Santi and Anna, have two

Too lovely to leave – Bob Marley tunes, palm trees, an honesty bar and the pool at Can Gall, above, and left, Santi Mari Ferrer, one of the co-owners.

young boys and their family-friendly but sophisticated retreat is a magnet for cool couples with a tot or two in tow. In fact there were eleven other identikit couples to us in residence, from various parts of Europe, all of whom we chatted with over a home-cooked candlelit dinner in the gardens at night, rocking the Bugaboo in one hand while sipping sangria with the other. It was day four before we ventured

Stay at ... BUDGET Invisa Hotel Club Cala Verde is part of the large Ibiza hotel chain, famed for its family packages. Perched on a cliff overlooking Es Figueral beach, its location is perfect and amenities abundant, including four pools, a pirate water park for kids, a playground and bars and restaurants a plenty. The rooms are basic and the food served up in the main restaurant at mealtimes is rather canteen-like, but it can’t be beaten for value. Rooms from €78. (Playa de Es Figueral, +34 902 248 248;

MID-RANGE Paraiso De Los Pinos offers spacious, self-contained rooms and apartments (some with roof gardens, others with terraces). But the real treat is the newly refurbished restaurant and pool area. Also, the breakfasts are sublime, and it’s all just a stroll through the woods to a secluded sandy beach. Downside, it’s about two miles from the main road and towns, so you’ll need your own transport. Double rooms from €85. (Platja Mitjorn, Formentera, +34 971 322 613;

SPLURGE From the walk-in hydro showers to bedrooms stocked with Disney DVDs and the provision of baby monitors to the honesty bar by the luxe pool area, Agroturismo Can Gall is an Ibizan family hotel which hasn’t missed a trick. The food prepared by the in-house chef was by far the nicest we had anywhere in the Balearics – the roast chicken is a must and the owners, parents themselves, provide a family concierge service that could rival the Four Seasons. Double rooms from €170. (San Juan; APRIL/MAY 2014

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From far left, mixing it up with barman Natale Matia and, below, Saria Silny, the bar manager at Elements; popular beach spot Platges de Comte; Café del Mar, the place to go at sunset for a chilled-out cocktail.

Eat at ... BUDGET Stroll through the square of Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera in Ibiza and you’re in the heart of the local community, with children playing, dogs barking, tourists ambling and the locals chatting outside their shops, stalls or restaurants. Pull up a stool outside Bar Costa (Plaça de L’Esglèsia, +34 971 197 021), and order a few portions of mouthwatering tomato bread, €2.50, and plates of their famous Serrano ham – of which literally hundreds hang from the ceilings behind the bar. MID-RANGE Whether you want a lazy lunch or a sunset dining experience, Elements (Playa Benirrás, San Miguel, +34 971 333 136; at first glance is a vast, modern, beach deck, serving classic Mediterranean fare alongside tourist favourites such as cheeseburgers and fries for around €15. On closer inspection there’s also a juice bar, cocktail lounge, treatment and massage room and craft shop behind the deck. With cracking views and killer cocktails, you’d be hard pressed not to enjoy a few hours grazing here. SPLURGE Book the babysitter and go for a sexy meal and sultry late-night music session at Beach Club Blue Marlin (Cala Jondal, +34 971 410 117,; mains from €26). Mediterranean and Oriental flavours dominate this ambitious menu, which also features an extensive sushi list. Book a table and watch the waves crash on Cala Jondal to one side and, on the other, the jetset crash out on day-beds after giving it socks on the dance floor.

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out around the island, which has clearly graduated from finishing school since I was last here. From the excellent new motorway system (no small feat considering there were only twelve cars on the island in the 1950s) s) to the modernist, Miami-style beach clubs that have popped up like mushrooms around the best stretches

of sand, it has morphed into a sleek, international destination. Cote d’Azur types fight for ludicrously priced day-beds at Blue Marlin ( in Cala Jondal Beach, Santos (santosibizacoastsuites. com) successfully markets its coastal suites (ie, day-beds, a bar and pool) to the posh punters at Playa d’en Bossa, while the boho set heads to Sa Trinxa ( on Las Salinas beach, to show off their beach bodies and flirt over cocktails. At night these hip hang-outs become a magnet for the St Tropez émigré, and the more sophisticated party set who demand first-class service, world-class cuisine, VIP status and who are more than willing to pay top dollar for it. The fact that none of the clubs opens for dinner before 10pm meant booking lunch was our only way to join the jetsetters. After blowing the budget on a fun Asian-fusion feast at Sands (Playa d’en Bossa, San José;, we were just starting to convince ourselves that we were still hip young things, who could rock Ibiza as well as any childfree sybarite, and we figured we’d detour via the old town or Dalt Vila on the way home. This fortress-enclosed World Heritage site is awash with tourists by day, all snap-happy on the medieval bulwarks capturing


Don’t miss ...


Every Sunday evening, as the sun sets over the picturesque cove at Playa Benirrás San Miguel, the islands’ true hippies come out to play on the beach. They deliver their homage to the sun as it makes its way below the horizon by playing drums and bongos to a hypnotic beat and a backdrop of bonfires and flaming torches. It’s transfixing, free and fun for all the family. If your children are in need of distraction, Minibiza is a giant, supervised, play area with both indoor and outdoor zones and lots of interactive workshops and organised games, from art classes to fruit sampling. They can also organise summer camps, babysitting and private childcare. (Club de Campo, Sa Carroca Carretara de San José, +34 619 122 306;; €7 per hour) Only open to the public on Mondays, the award-winning vineyard Can Rich de Buscastell takes visitors on a tour of the winery topped off with an amusing tasting session, so you can try before you buy. It’s free but, after all the kindness shown by staff, it is hard not to purchase a few bottles of their velvety juice before you go. (San Antonio de Portmany, +34 971 803 377; The Gecko Beach Club in Formentera is worth booking for a



spot of lunch, not least for the delicious grub prepared by their Michelin-starred chef, then you can enjoy the facilities at this boho luxe club, which include a kids’ playground, yoga classes, a stunning salt-water pool and an unbeatable beachside setting. (Playa de Migjorn,; mains from €15) Fonda Pepe (Calle Mayor, +34 971 328 033; mains from €20) is a Formentera institution. This bar, restaurant and hostel is spread out across the lively Sant Ferran town square and the rustic menu and spartan furnishings look as if they haven’t changed since the 1970s – which is a plus, because back then rock legends Pink Floyd, Bob Dylan and Bob Marley used to eat, drink and play here. And today you never know who’ll be strumming a guitar by the bar, as modern-day musicians like to drop in.



a babysitting Every place we stayed in Ibiza and Formentera had the fee of at But service, with 24-hours’ notice required for bookings. ad, bring your baby least €20 an hour was a hard pill to swallow. Inste least once the kids are monitor and request a room with a terrace, so at the shooting stars. tucked up, you can share a bottle of wine and watch 78 |


the panoramic views acro across the turquoise Medi Mediterranean. By night it’s a peoplewatchi watching paradise, where the young and the rest restless saunter up and do down the winding streets before settling at one of the cute tables outside the stretch of sophisticated eateries. It sounds idyllic, but try it with a buggy and a teething nipper and it’s all steep steps, treacherous cobblestones and a labyrinth of trouble, with not a car park space within a mile of its drawbridge. One afternoon we drove south to visit the Aquarium Cap Blanc (San Antonio; aquariumcapblanc. com). It’s a natural cave flooded

Opposite page, from left, the charms of the Old Town of Ibiza; the Hippy Market; to the lighthouse – the laidback island of Formentera; below, Oscar Enguita, stall holder at the Hippy Market.

with sea water and home to turtles, fish, a few crustaceans and squid, but not desperately exciting, if you’re only one and a half. And on another morning made a pit stop at the infamous Hippy Market (Las Dalias, Santa Eulària des Riu,, which was akin to hitting Ikea in the Christmas sales. Crammed with shoppers and beautiful yet heftily priced handicrafts, we ran out when a grumpy old man went to slap Charlie, after he grabbed and spilled his Sprite from the communal table at which we were taking a breather. Our most successful outings were to the beach, but if you’re on the hunt for a family-friendly spot along the northern coast, research and local knowledge are essential.

The coast here is peppered with picturesque islets and coves, replete with aquamarine seas and flamingopink cliffs, but many require a hike or even a swim to access them and, when you do get there, you can find sand in serious shortage and jagged rocks and boulders aplenty. Playa Benirrás, which Santi had directed us to, was the only entirely toddlerfriendly stretch and we bunkered down blissfully here most afternoons. On day six we said adios to Ibiza and took the 30-minute ferry ride to Formentera (ferries run every half hour from Ibiza port, €46 pp return;, the smallest Balearic island and former magnet for hippies and artists. Nowadays it’s more of a secret hideaway for King Carlos of Spain and the super-yacht set who APRIL/MAY 2014

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sail over from Ibiza to anchor along the Playa de ses Illetes for a dip in the glistening, cerulean waters. We were smitten by the juxtaposition of beaches so beautiful they’d make Barbados blush and the rugged stone-walled interior, dotted with sleepy villages, dirt tracks and whitewashed haciendas – the Caribbean meets Connemara. In Formentera no one would have blinked if we’d shown up to a fine-dining restaurant with screaming octuplets. We flitted like carefree teenagers around the island in our little rented car and, for the first time, felt relaxed enough to read a book or just simply watch Charlie, paddling in the calm shallows. We’d linger over a lazy lunch at whatever beach bar was nearest; most are tables-in-the-sand joints and serve fresh Med fish, veg and salads. But just because you’re eating in basic surroundings doesn’t mean you won’t end up seated beside Harvey Weinstein and Georgina Chapman and their daughter India. Which is how we ended up befriending Hollywood’s heavyweight power couple, over a glass of rosé at the Formentera institution Juan y Andrea (Illetes Beach; juanyandrea. com). It’s just that type of place – egoless, egalitarian and easygoing. Formentera nightlife is the antithesis of what’s on offer in Ibiza, with not a superclub or sleek bar in sight and, for us, therein lay its charm. Sandy and sun-kissed, we’d head straight from the beach to one of the two main villages, 80 |




Sant Francesc or Sant Ferran de Ses Roques, and sit outside one of the twee taverns or tapas bars on the church squares. Here we’d devour traditional Spanish dishes, fill up on local wine and settle our €20 bill before letting Charlie off to run around with the local children. As we began our odyssey home, a tourist board poster in La Savina, Formentera’s efficient ferry port, caught my eye, declaring the island as “Europe’s last paradise”. My younger, footloose self would have laughed at the utopian notion but, in our current circumstances, when we need a holiday that’s safe but stimulating, it sums it up just perfectly. We’ve already booked the flights for next year. Follow Liz Dwyer @BeautyBootcamp1


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In Flanders Fields

Traces of the Irish troops who fought in Ypres – or Ieper as it is known today – are not hard to find. In the year of the centennial, writer Alan Monaghan visits the setting he had only imagined for scenes in his First World War novel The Soldier’s Song. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

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One hundred years on, Flanders is all neat fields, tidy farmhouses and peaceful countryside, but for writer Alan Monaghan, there’s still something about the place that speaks of war.


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Remembering the fallen This year is the centenary of the outbreak of the First World War and all the countries that took part in the war will commemorate this. In Flanders, the fallen are remembered every single day at the Menin Gate in Ieper. This gate is a memorial to the British and Commonwealth soldiers killed in the Ypres salient during the Great War but who have no known grave. Its carved stone panels list the names of over 50,000 of those men. Every evening at 8pm, police stop the traffic through the gate and buglers from the Ieper fire brigade play the last post under the gate, before a short ceremony where lines from Binyon’s poem “For the Fallen” are recited and wreaths are laid. It is a short but very moving ceremony and a must-see for all visitors to Ieper.


I have the knack of doing things backwards. Some people might visit an interesting place and be inspired to write a book about it. Me? I wrote a novel whose climactic scenes were set in the trenches of Flanders during the First World War. The Soldier’s Song was critically acclaimed, especially for its realism and sense of place. Four years later, in February this year, I finally went to Flanders for the first time. Getting there was certainly evocative. Familiar names began appearing on signs. The spelling had been modernised but they still struck a chord: Mesen, Kemmel, Loker. And at the centre of it all was Ieper – which had been Ypres during the war, but was known to the thousands of soldiers who fought there simply as “Wipers”. 84 |


Ieper, or Wipers, has a very medieval feel, from the great square, or Grote Markt, to the narrow cobbled streets lined with shops, bars and cafés. At the centre stands the massive Cloth Hall, where a carillon rings out every hour from its belfry, and on its outskirts you’ll find gates and ramparts and even a partial moat. But appearances are deceptive. With high ground to the north, east and west, Ieper lay at the centre of a salient, that is a bulge in the front line that formed as the opposing armies tried to outflank each other in 1914. Thus overlooked on three sides by German artillery, Ieper was shelled constantly for almost three years during the First World War. The Cloth Hall was completely destroyed and not a single building of the old town survived intact. Almost

Menin Gate, top, where the names of over 50,000 soldiers killed in the Ypres salient are listed. Above, Alan Monaghan steps back into history.

everything you see today is less than 100 years old. But for me, it was like stepping back into history. Although a few years had passed since I was immersed in writing The Soldier’s Song, a visit to the In Flanders Fields Museum (Grote Markt 34; brought me right back. It’s located inside the Cloth Hall and offers a remarkably personal view of the war. Visitors can programme a wristband with their name, age and nationality and then scan it at several of the exhibits to learn about the war experiences of somebody very like themselves. Traces of the Irish troops who served in Ieper are not hard to find. A little way out on the Menen road,

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just past Hellfire Corner (shelled night and day – the hottest spot on earth, according to the troops), you come to Birr Crossroads, clearly a reminder of some passing Offalymen. Even more touching than this are the names of the dead. The Menin Gate, a massive memorial erected by the British after the war, contains the names of 50,000 men with no known grave. The Irish Regiments are prominent among them: the Dublin Fusiliers, the Connaught Rangers, the Inniskilling Fusiliers, to name but a few. “The Irish are well remembered here,” said Kathleen Poissonier, a local guide, as she showed me the memorial to the Munster Regiments – a distinctively Irish Celtic cross erected near the Cloth Hall. The inscription is simple and to the point: “In memory of those men of Munster who died fighting for freedom”. The Irish also left their mark on the cluster of villages that surrounds Ieper. While Ieper lay at the centre of the salient, these villages – the most iconic of which is 86 |


Above, Leroy Degryse at the Ypres Inn. Below, the grand medieval square of Grotte Markt, which houses the In Flanders Museum.

Stay at ...

Eat at ...

HOSPITABLE The Hotel Regina overlooks the Grote Markt in Ieper and faces the Cloth Hall. Small, but comfortable and well appointed, the Regina’s owners spent several years working in Dublin; so Irish guests are always welcome. Double B&B max €62.50 pp per night (Grote Markt 45, 8900 Ieper, +32 5721 8888; SLEEK Cosy but contemporary, the Ariane Hotel has its own restaurant and offers free parking – and free Wi-Fi if you book direct. Rooms are a smart combo of blonde wood, lime accents and mood lighting, while an alfresco terrace is a boon in summer. Double B&B max €79.50 pp per night (Slachthuisstraat 58, 8900 Ieper, +32 5721 8218; QUIRKY Another small hotel, but more luxurious, is the Main Street Hotel, which comes highly recommended not least for its whimsical interiors (most involving tactile faux fur). Its breakfasts are as memorable as the soft furnishings, with dishes made from locally sourced produce. Double B&B max €130pp per night. (Rijselstraat 136, 8900 Ieper, +32 5746 9633;

STEAK There is a good choice of bars and restaurants in and around Ieper. Het Moment on Boterstraat, above, in Ieper is a modern restaurant with a pleasant ambience and good food. (Price range €15-€40) BEER MATCHING A more oldfashioned brasserie can be found in t’ Klein Stadhuis, which is right next to the Cloth Hall and overlooks the Grote Markt in Ieper. (Price range €15-€30) IRISH For something with more of an Irish flavour you could try the Old Fiddler pub and restaurant ( in Poperinghe – an ideal place to relax after taking the interactive iPad tour at nearby Talbot House ( FROMAGE If you want to try something not war-related, you could combine a visit to the cheese museum with a tasty lunch at the museum café in De Oude Kaasmakerij ( near Passendale. PINTS The ideal spot to warm yourself after attending the Last Post ceremony at the Menin Gate is the Ypres Inn, just across the street and where you can sample some of those famous Belgian beers.

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Top left, the headstone of 14-year-old John Condon from Waterford at Poelcapelle Cemetary; middle, local guide Kathleen Poissonier; below, an Irish touch – the memorial to the Munster Regiment. Below right, Bedford House Cemetery where many who died in the Ypres salient are buried.

In their footsteps ... If you want to find the grave of a relative who was killed in the war, then it pays to do a little research first. The best place to start is on the website of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission ( A name is enough to start your search but the more information you have (name of regiment, date of birth, etc), the more likely you are to get a result. Or you can check out the newly launched digital archive of all Irish WWI casualties at Please be aware that not all the war dead have a grave. The Menin Gate and Tyne Cot memorials hold the names of more than 80,000 men with no known grave.

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Passchendaele (now known as Passendale) – were literally in the front line, and it’s here that you’ll find many of the cemeteries and memorials to the war dead. You are almost guaranteed to find an Irish soldier in every British and Commonwealth cemetery, although you might be surprised to find that Irish Farm Cemetery ( contains mostly Australians. A visit to Poelcapelle Cemetery ( will bring you to the grave of John Condon from Waterford, killed at the age of 14 and long believed to be the youngest soldier to die in the war – although this is now disputed. Near Boezinge, at the peaceful

Carrefour de Rose crossroads, you’ll find the memorial to Ireland’s bestknown war poet, Francis Ledwidge. He’s buried in nearby Artillery Wood Cemetery (, which is also the resting place of the Welsh poet Hedd Wyn, who was killed on the same day. For anybody interested in the more military element, a visit to the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 (Berten Pilstraat 5, Zonnebeke; is a must. It boasts a breathtaking array of trench weaponry and equipment, as well as a dugout experience – built underground, for maximum realism – and reconstructed trenches of both



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the British and German design. It’s very hands on, and very well done. For me, however, the most striking thing about Flanders was the place itself; it looks remarkably like Ireland, especially when it rains. But unlike Ireland, it still bears the scars of the war. The cemeteries and memorials dotted across Flanders are not the only visible reminder of the conflict that raged here a century ago. You don’t have to look very hard to see the crumbling corners of concrete bunkers in the hedgerows, or iron dugout beams now turned into fence-posts. This is only part of what the locals call “The Iron Harvest”. Every year in Flanders, farmers ploughing their fields turn up helmets and rifles, fence posts and corrugated iron – but also unexploded artillery shells. Alarming though it sounds, this is hardly surprising. In preparation for the battle of Langemarck in August 1917, the British dropped four million shells on one short section of the German lines, of which it is estimated that one in four failed to explode. Each year, between 100 and 200 tonnes of unexploded shells are dealt with by the Belgian Army bomb disposal team stationed permanently in the area. “The war may be over,” said local guide, Freddie de Clerck. “But for some Belgians it still goes on.” 90 |


Clockwise from above, guide Marc Olivier in a reconstructed trench at Memorial Museum Passchendaele; the sweep of Tyne Cot Cemetery; Dirk Vanderkerckhove, one of the buglers who plays the Last Post each night at Menin Gate; Talbot House in Poperingle, now a living museum; an Irish memorial at Wytschaete Military Cemetery.

Five Great War commemoration highlights


1,000 VOICES FOR PEACE Nothing brings people together quite like music, which makes 1,000 Voices for Peace a heartwarming prospect. As part of Brussels’ Flanders Festival, on November 9, 1,000 international choir singers – including our very own BA Voice and Dance Choir from the University of Limerick – will accompany the Brussels Philharmonic, in a performance of a specially commissioned oratorio composed by Poland’s Krzysztof Penderecki. RAVAGE – ART & CULTURE IN TIMES OF CONFLICT George Clooney’s Monuments Men may not have been the greatest tribute to the real-life treasure hunters of WWII but, at worst, the romp stirred debate about the plunder of culturally important artworks during conflict. On your way to or from Brussels airport, stop off at Leuven’s M Museum’s exhibition, Ravage, which looks at the socio-cultural impact of monuments reduced to rubble, books burnt and artworks seized. Until September 1; LIJSSENTHOEK TERMINUS From 1915 to 1920, the hamlet of Lijssenthoek (Poperinge) became the biggest field hospital in the Ypres Salient. Now, it bears 10,784 headstones dedicated to those soldiers who couldn’t be saved. Keep your hanky handy at Lijssenthoek Terminus, an open-air, multilingual


3 Every year, between one hundred and two hundred tonnes of unexploded shells are dealt with by the Belgian Army.

musical theatre production performed beside the cemetery that brings life to these personal histories. August 1-13; THE OLD CONTEMPTIBLES These were the 100,000 British soldiers who brought the German advance to a standstill at Gheluvelt (Zonnebeke) in October-November 1914. There, they lost more than half of their men. On August 15-17, some 150 multinational actors will re-enact the men’s bittersweet victory at the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917. In addition, the new Passchendaele Memorial cricket ground will be played on for the first time – at the outbreak of war in 1914, all matches were abandoned so that players could enlist. Various exhibitions, August 15 to December 28. YSER TOWER, DIKSMUIDE Also known as the IJzertoren, this monument-cum-museum has reopened after a refurbishment. Together with the Gate of Peace and the Crypt, the tower forms what is known as the European Peace domain, and offers visitors an overview of life during WWI over its 22 floors. While not specifically of Irish interest, the view over Diksmuide and the entire Westhoek region from the top of the tower – Europe’s highest peace monument at 84 metres, and the world’s largest cross – is worth the trip alone.




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Getting Around


If you want to explore the history of the First World War in Flanders then you should start in Ieper. Most of the memorials, museums and battlefield sites lie within a few kilometres of the town. If you wish to follow your own itinerary then a car is essential, although if you are feeling energetic many of the major sites can be reached by bicycle. Bikes can be hired at Camping Jeugdstadion, Bolwerkstraat 1 ( Probably the best way to learn about the war, however, is to go with a guide. Guided minibus tours start at around €30 for a half-day and it is possible to hire a personal guide for a more tailored experience. In all cases, the best place to start is at the office of Toerisme Ieper, which is located in the Cloth Hall in Ieper. As this year is the centenary of the outbreak of the war, it might be advisable to book ahead. Check out the tourist board’s Visit Flanders website ( or for more information.

Then there are the craters. In June 1917, following a lengthy tunnelling operation, the British detonated 19 enormous mines under the Messines Ridge – opening a battle in which the Irish regiments were closely involved. The explosion was heard as far away as Dublin and caused one British general to quip, “We may not change history but we shall certainly change the landscape”. And that they surely did. The most striking reminder of the war in Flanders is indeed the craters left by those mines, one of the largest of which is now the Pool of Peace at Spanbroekmolen, not far from the Irish Peace Park at Messines. Modern Flanders has come a long way from the ravaged, muddy, hellish place it was during the war. Everywhere you look, you’ll see neatly tilled fields, hop-poles and tidy farmhouses. But still there’s something about the place that speaks of the war. The most moving moment for me was not at the Menin 92 |


Gate or in Tyne Cot, but standing on a gravel track just off the road to Passendale. I knew I was very close to the site of Vampire Farm, where the climactic attack in The Soldier’s Song took place. My guide had just pointed out to me the half-buried concrete stumps of a German blockhouse. There was no mud, no wire, no machineguns, no shells, but still I could see what those men had seen as they began their desperate attack. I could feel it. I was there. Alan Monaghan’s trilogy of novels, The Soldier’s Song, The Soldier’s Return and The Soldier’s Farewell, are out now. Follow Alan @apmonaghan CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT WWW. AERLINGUSCARS.COM.



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Emerald are part of a rebounding tourist industry which thanks to Tourism Ireland-led initiatives such as The Gathering in 2013 is set for another excellent year in 2014. The key to Ireland’s success is the great sense of community in hosting visitors. The most popular type of trip Emerald Elite Group offer is the Private Guided Tour which is personalized to guests’ preferred dates of travel, interests, activities and where to stay and dine. The twist on a tour could be including some golf, fishing, horseback riding or tracing ancestral ties to the Emerald Isle. After landing, a charming driver guide is assigned to the clients for the rest of their tour. We thoroughly understand how to match each client’s interest and get the most from their visit. Quite often, this once off visit turns into an every other year trip as the longing to return to connect with Ireland beckons. We are generally introduced to our guests by referral. It can sometimes be a family looking to do a multi-generational trip, a group of couples enjoying a food, golf and leisure trip or company rewarding their best performers with an achievers’ trip.

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BIG City


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Karlin Lillington grew up with talk of “the City”. But it was as an adult that she truly discovered San Francisco’s beauty, and, not least, its food. Photographs by Anne-Solange Tardy.


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he City. That phrase, with a capital “C”, meant just one thing when I was growing up in Northern California: San Francisco. And it still does. If you live anywhere within a couple of hundred kilometres of the home of the cable car and the Golden Gate, “the City” is shorthand for San Francisco. Oh, sure, there are other great cities all across the United States – New York, Chicago, Boston, New Orleans – we’ll even grudgingly acknowledge Los Angeles down south. But for residents of the Bay Area, those are lower-case cities, even if they are larger in geographical size and population. When I was living down on “the Peninsula”, in the region now known as Silicon Valley, San Francisco was always special. It was where my parents went, wearing their glamour


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clothes, for a black-tie dinner or a show. It’s where I sometimes was taken for a day out, especially if we had visiting relatives. My father would drive them up and down a few especially steep hills in our Chevy, inducing satisfying gasps of fright. Then we’d zigzag down famous Lombard Street, aka “the windiest street in the world”, to oohs and ahhs. Inevitably, we had lunch somewhere on Fisherman’s Wharf, digging into cracked Dungeness crab and the City’s hallmark sourdough bread. I felt mildly sorry for the crustaceans as they were dropped into vats of boiling water, to be plucked out moments later, steaming and a livid orange. The sorrow only endured until I tucked into that succulent meat. It wasn’t until I became an adult and lived in the City for several years that I became truly smitten by this ethereally beautiful,

Previous pages, rising and falling over 43 different hills – the streets of San Francisco; top, the colourful, vibrant Church Street in The Castro neighbourhood, and, above, writer Karlin Lillington, who fell in love with “the City” for its diversity, colour and, of course, those views.

colourfully diverse, friendly place. I could explore its endless array of restaurants, walks, parks and squares, shops and bars, its opera house and rock concerts, museums and galleries. And, of course, enjoy those spectacular views every day. San Francisco’s most notable quality is its setting. Rising and falling over 43 different hills, linked to the rocky Californian coastline to the north by the Art Deco magnificence of the Golden Gate Bridge, overlooking the 68-kilometre-long bay (the world’s greatest natural harbour), San Francisco is a real looker. Yet wind back 200 years, and its towering sand dunes, marshes and harsh winds were considered so unpleasant that the Native American tribes in the region avoided it. Eventually settled by the Spanish, the tiny village, then called Yerba Buena, had just 200 residents in 1846. Gold was discovered in the Sierra Nevada foothills two years later. By 1849, the renamed


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San Francisco had 40,000, mostly male, residents and was growing by 4,000 immigrants a month, almost all arriving by ship. Often these were left abandoned in the harbour which extended into today’s Financial District, where dozens remain buried under the streets. Most of that old San Francisco is long gone but you can get a flavour of it. The oldest remnant of the city’s past is Mission Dolores, also known as Mission San Francisco de Asís, founded in 1776 (3321 16th Street, Established by Spanish missionary Father Junipero Serra, its cemetery holds many of the city’s early pioneers as well as Native Americans, many of whom succumbed to diseases brought by the Europeans. From the Mission, wander up Dolores Street to funky Dolores Park, a favourite retreat for local

residents to hang out, walk dogs and chat in the sun. Cut across the park up to the intersection of Church and 20th and you’ll spot a nondescript fire hydrant, painted gold. Thanks to this single hydrant, known as Little Giant, this area – unlike most of the city – did not burn down in the raging fires that followed the 1906 earthquake. Most hydrants didn’t work. This one did and hundreds of residents slowly

Pastel pretty Victorian houses near Washington Square, a neighbourhood with some of the oldest buildings in town.

San Franciscans adore their coffee. Skip the big chains and instead head for the coffee bars in North Beach, or a branch of City javameisters Philz or Blue Bottle Coffee Company. For coffeehouse reading, pick up Gary Kamiya’s excellent new book Cool Gray City of Love, an exploration of San Francisco via its 46 square miles of neighbourhoods.

Stay at ... BUDGET A little Victorian hotel rich in San Francisco history, the San Remo initially housed Italians who helped rebuild the City after the big earthquake of 1906. Rooms are modest but cosy and, quirkily, have neither phones nor TV sets, and bathrooms are shared. Off the tourist track in North Beach, the City’s old Italian immigrant neighbourhood. Doubles from $99. (2237 Mason Street, +1 415 776 8688;

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MID-RANGE A characterful boutique hotel in a Spanish, colonial-style building off Union Square in the heart of the City, the Adagio has large, contemporary rooms at a reasonable price for the area. With friendly staff and a good bar – but costly (if huge) breakfast – it is a great location for theatre and an easy walk to Union Square and Chinatown. Rooms from $150. (550 Geary Street, +1 415 775 5000;

SPLURGE The grand opening of The Fairmont, at the top of Nob Hill, was delayed due to repair work needed after the 1906 earthquake but, ever since then, it has been one of San Francisco’s most elegant and luxurious hotels. Every US president since Harry Truman has slept there. Tony Bennett first sang “I Left my Heart...” in its Venetian Room nightclub. Rooms, right, from $250 to very expensive. (950 Mason Street, +1 415 772 5000;

pulled fire engines up the hill to reach it. Every year it is repainted gold on April 18, the anniversary of the devastating quake. Another evocative neighbourhood is the Jackson Square Historic District, which has some of the oldest buildings in the city. Near the pointy TransAmerica Pyramid building, and bounded by Pacific, Sansome Street, Washington Street and Columbus Avenue, some of its buildings date back to the 1850s. This was the old edge of the bay; buried beneath your feet lie yet more skeletons of abandoned ships. You could start the day with breakfast in lovely Washington Square, at Mama’s (1701 Stockton Street, +1 415 362 6421; mamas-sf. com) feasting on French toast or eggs Benedict. Then continue north up Stockton, turning right on Greenwich. This brings you towards Telegraph Hill and Coit Tower. Inside the firehose-shaped tower are some lovely 1930s murals and there’s a lift to the top for the view. The area around Coit Tower features a warren of staircases and steps – work off that big breakfast by exploring some. Descend the lovely Greenwich Stairway, watching out for the resident parrot flock. Meander back around to the Filbert Steps – a continuation of Filbert Street – for good measure and more great views. Then head south on

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Montgomery or Kearny to connect up to the Jackson Street District. Alternatively, you can explore the Beat Era heritage of North Beach. From Mama’s, make your way to Columbus Avenue. Drop in to City Lights Bookstore (261 Columbus, at Broadway;, where major Beat figures such as novelist Jack Kerouac and poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti hung out. Nearby is the tiny but entrancing Beat Museum (540 Broadway; with exhibits about the era’s writers, a little cinema and a well-stocked gift shop. They even have the 1949 Hudson that belonged to Kerouac’s friend, Neal Cassady, who figures as Dean Moriarty in Kerouac’s On the Road.

Take the lift up to the top of the Coit Tower, right, for the 1930s murals and the city views. Below, the world famous San Francisco streetcar.

Eat at ... SPLURGE With a rose on each elegant table, Acquerello is a good destination for a romantic special occasion, offering outstanding Italian food. Diners choose from either a three-, four- or five-course prix fixe menu running from $85-$115, or a six-course seasonal tasting menu at $95 (wine pairings extra at $75). Attentive, stylish service. (1722 Sacramento Street, +1 415 567 5432; MID-PRICE The most extraordinary and inventive food – which just happens to be vegetarian – is served in the upmarket, trendy interior of the Millennium Restaurant, a short walk from Union Square. Á la carte, as well as seasonal tasting menus with (excellent) wine pairings. Great cocktails at the bar, too. (580 Geary Street, +1 415 345 3900; BUDGET Burma Superstar Restaurant is a much-loved spot where you can expect bright flavours

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and unusual dishes. The tea leaf salad is a speciality (beware the jalapeno peppers!). $11-$30 (309 Clement Street, +1 415 387 2147; Dodge the Powell Street cable cars on Union Square to get into Sears Fine Foods, which has been serving enormous American breakfasts since 1938. The house specialty is a plate of 18 little Swedish pancakes, with maple syrup and sides of Americanstyle crispy bacon or sausages. Bottomless coffee and cheerful waiting staff. (439 Powell Street, +1 415 986 0700, For gut-busting (or hangover-reducing) sandwiches, stop by Giordano Bros. They pack their sambos with slaw and chips and serve with sports TV and beer. Man heaven. (303 Columbus Avenue, +1 415 397 2767;

If you like Italian food, prepare to chow down. Across from City Lights is Vesuvio Café (255 Columbus Avenue;, a renowned Beat hangout. Or try the Original US Restaurant (515 Columbus Ave), which is inexpensive, cheerful and great for families. The pricier Tosca (242 Columbus; serves dinner only; no reservations but excellent food.

If food seems to be a recurring theme here, that’s because San Franciscans are obsessed with it. No US city has more restaurants per capita, and its residents spend more money eating out than those in any other place in the country. A visitor would be a fool not to “go native” and sample as many as possible. If you’re in the City to romance a loved one, combine three essential San Francisco experiences – fabulous food, cable cars and an Irish Coffee in the bar where it was launched in the US – like a local. Start the evening with a swank dinner at Gary Danko, near Fisherman’s Wharf (800 North Point, +1 415 749 2060; garydanko. com). Expensive but worth every cent – although you may need to book weeks in advance. Go for an earlyish reservation, so that afterwards you have time for a slow stroll over to the Buena Vista Café, around the corner at 2765 Hyde Street, where you can order an Irish Coffee, introduced here from Ireland’s Shannon Airport in the 1950s.

Liam Quirke

Managing Partner

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STEPS AND STAIRWAYS In a city of steep hills, steps and stairs are an indispensable aid to pedestrians. But they’re a lot more than that. There seems to be a stairway – stone, wooden, concrete, iron – somewhere in every corner of the City. They bend and twist through residential and business areas, giving glimpses of beautiful houses, hidden resting spots, spectacular views, and even San Francisco’s huge resident parrot flock. Walking a few of them will give a visitor an intimate and charming take on the City by the Bay. Pick up a copy of Adam Bakalinsky’s Stairway Walks in San Francisco, put on a comfortable pair of walking shoes and head out the door. TWIN PEAKS The tour buses all come up here for the stunning view, but then so does every San Franciscan.

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Twin Peaks are just over 275 metres high and on a clear day you can not only see the city laid out beneath your feet but the far reaches of San Francisco Bay and its bridges. If you don’t have a car or friendly resident to drive you up here, you can take public transport to the Castro District (the heart of the gay community and full of options for lunch), then hike up (detailed directions here: hiking/twinpeaks.html). Bring a jacket – even in summer it is cold and windy at the top. THE EXPLORATORIUM For four decades the Exploratorium, which describes itself as a giant, interactive laboratory, has entranced adults and children alike. Don’t miss it if you are travelling with children, but it’s a fun, hands-on day out for anyone of any age, with six indoor and outdoor galleries


focusing on the sciences. Recently, it reopened in a new location at Pier 15, on the Embarcadero at Green Street. SUTRO BATHS AND THE CLIFF HOUSE In 1894, millionaire Adolph Sutro created the Sutro Baths, a massive, glass-enclosed bathhouse of more than 12,000 square metres, with seven ocean-filled swimming pools. Kept at various temperatures, these could accommodate 10,000 bathers at a time and featured a trapeze, slides and diving boards. San Franciscans could take a railway trip out to the baths, visit the beach, and wander through the entertainments and restaurant at the Cliff House. Sadly, the baths were destroyed in the 1960s but visitors can clamber about the ruins, walk on the beach and grab a meal or a drink


at Cliff House. Go there to drink an Anchor Steam beer (brewed in San Francisco) and watch the sun set over the Pacific, to the barking of the sea lions. goga/planyourvisit/cliff-housesutro-baths.htm TADICH GRILL Reputedly the oldest restaurant in San Francisco, dating from the time of the gold prospectors, Tadich serves what many consider the finest bowl of the most quintessentially San Franciscan dish: cioppino (pronounced cha-PEE-no). The marvellous waiters in white coats will bring you a bib, sourdough bread to die for and then a steaming bowl of the famous. tomatoey seafood chowder full of shrimp, Dungeness crab, fish, scallops and clams. If you don’t want cioppino, go for anything with sweet, Dungeness crab, considered the world’s finest crab meat. No reservations.


(240 California Street, Financial District, +1 415 391 1849;


Don’t miss ...

Now, exit the bar, cross the street to the Aquatic Park cable car turntable for the Powell/Hyde line. In the late evening, the queues are gone. Pay your fare, climb on and enjoy the slow trip to Union Square in the cool night air. As you climb up and over Russian and Nob Hills to the gripman’s ringing bell, you’ll see a lazy nighttime San Francisco of quiet neighbourhoods that tourists miss. The next day, learn more about the colourful history of the much-loved cars at the Cable Car Museum (1201 Mason Street; This free museum is inside the Washington/

Mason car barn and powerhouse, where the cable-winding machinery runs. After, wander over to Chinatown’s Grant Avenue, full of little shops and side streets packed with th – but of course – interesting ng restaurants. If it’s Saturday, go one block west to Stockton, where the street market should ould be in full swing. This is the Chinatown for San Francisco’s sco’s huge Chinese population, rather than the tourists. Waverley Place, between Stockton and Grant, is also full of sights, activity and

High drama – Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s Fog Bridge at the Exploratorium, above. Best sambos in town? Chowing down at Giordano Bros, left, and, below, local colour.

in beautiful vistas best Want a room with a view? San Francisco abounds 1939 is the bar at the Top seen from on high. A traditional favourite since ows provide breathtaking of the Mark on Nob Hill. Day or night, its big wind brunch (Mark Hopkins cityscapes alongside cocktails, snacks, or Sunday Hotel, 999 California Street; intercontinentalmark APRIL/MAY 2014

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Don’t rent a car during the time you’re in the City. Parking fees are atrocious, especially at hotels, and though it may look like a simple grid layout, San Francisco is chockablock with one-way streets and cul de sacs. Plus, hanging on a steep hill at a red light is not for the faint-hearted. But if you are around for a few days and want to get out of the city, pick up a car. Head north across the Golden Gate Bridge. Follow the signs for the quaint town of Sausalito. First, head over to the Bay Model Visitor Center (2100 Bridgeway; spn. BayModelVisitorCenter.aspx) to see this mind-boggling, working-scale model of the entire bay, which covers more than 6,000 square metres. Grab lunch in Sausalito after roaming about its many little shops. Afterwards, head back to the city or, for a longer day, drive on to Muir Woods to see some of California’s majestic, towering redwoods ( index.htm). If you wish to head south, get on Highway 280 towards San Jose. Some 48 kilometres south of San Francisco you’ll see signs for Filoli (exit at Edgewood Road). This mansion was built by a silver mine magnate whose only daughter married an Irishman. Their wedding gift was Muckross House in Killarney. Filoli’s ballroom is painted with murals of Muckross, while many plants in the glorious gardens have an Irish context. Departing Filoli, return to Highway 280 heading towards San Francisco. A short distance on, take the Highway 92 exit towards Half Moon Bay. Watch for the Skyline Boulevard exit and take it as far as desired along this lovely mountain road. Stop for a biker bar lunch at Alice’s Restaurant (17288 Skyline, Woodside; alicesrestaurant. com). Then take Highway 84 east, back to 280, or return to 92 and either head back to 280, or towards Half Moon Bay, returning to San Francisco by the coast road.

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Out of town ...

wafting smells. Head north, turn left on Washington then right on Ross Alley. A short stroll will bring you to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory (56 Ross Alley), where you can watch the women making them by hand and buy a bag to eat. If you’re staying in the Union Square area, finish off your San Francisco visit in style at Fino (624 Post Street, +1 415 928 2080; – another very popular, buzzy Italian restaurant. And if, like so many before, you find you’ve fallen in love with this special city, you have the perfect excuse to return. There’s still more than 4,000 restaurants to try. Follow Karlin @klillington


CASTLETOWN House, Courtyard CafÊ, Parklands, Events & Conference Centre An Italian Palazzo in the Liffey Valley House open daily for tours from 15th March to 31st October, 10am-6pm. Last admission 5pm including The Berkeley Costume exhibition. Admission charges apply. Free admission daily to the Toy exhibition, restored 18th Century Parklands & River Walks. Please refer to for information on: The Berkeley Costume & Toy exhibition, Lecture Series, Free Music Recitals, Country Markets & Craft Fairs, Tours, Children’s Tours, Workshops and more... Just 20km from Dublin City. Parking: Exit 6, M4, Celbridge West. Dublin Bus: 67 to historic Celbridge village, birthplace of Arthur Guinness and 10 minute walk through parklands.

c e l b r i d g e | c o. k i l d a r e | t : + 3 5 3 1 6 2 8 8 2 5 2 | e : c a s t l e to w n @ o p w. i e | w w w. c a s t l e to w n . i e


Whatever your taste in food, beer or music, you’ll find it in this buzzing Canadian city. Jeanne Sutton picks out the hot spots, while music promoter Susan O’Grady shares her favourite haunts.

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Opposite page – curios in Chinatown, above, and, below, the Toronto Bay skyline, of which the CN Tower is a great orientation tool. Left and above, pull up a bar stool at Rhum Corner, which serves Haitian cuisine, and a certain liquor ... Below left, a mind-boggling array of bites on offer in Chinatown.

Eat at … The city is a sizzling hotpot for gourmets and, while Montreal may have cornered the market in the native Canadian dish of poutine – a plate of chips drowning in gravy and topped with cheese curds – Toronto is home to some superb Asian food. Head to Pho Tien Thanh, a Vietnamese joint (57 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 588 6997) for portions that will test the capacity of even the most ravenous. It ain’t fancy but its beloved broth has attracted an almost religious following. Be warned – it is mobbed at peak times and you’ll need to pay cash. Rhum Corner (926 Dundas Street West, +1 647 346 9356;, tucked away in Little Italy, is a recent addition to the metropolis and serves affordable Haitian food and is one for the meat eaters and flavour addicts – and, of course, rum drinkers. It doesn’t take reservations. For family-friendly fare, Italian establishment Libretto has two neighbourhood joints (221 Ossington Avenue; 550 Danforth Avenue; The prices won’t make you blanch and the pizza crust is the most authentic in the Greater Toronto Area. Downtown, in the financial district, try The Gabardine. With a commitment to “fine grub and libations”, this place has perfected classics such as mac and cheese, and is the spot to go to for hearty Canadian cooking (372 Bay Street, +1 647 352 3211;

The city is a sizzling ho tpo t for gourme ts and, while Mon treal may have cornered the marke t in the na tive Canadian dish of poutine, Toron to is home to some superb Asian food. APRIL/MAY 2014

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Hang out at … The big moma of Toronto festivals has to be the insanely illustrious International Film Festival (September 4-14;, which draws Hollywood’s A-listers – you can bump into anyone from Brad Pitt to Breaking Bad’s Aaron Paul (who, it’s said, took over the DJ stand at Soho House one night) – but the city also boasts one of the best culture nights in the world, Nuit Blanche (October 4;, and its music festivals are pulling big names and big crowds. Downtown and on the lakeshore, Field Trip (June 7-8; takes place in the historic military site of Fort York. With Interpol, The Kills and Broken Social Scene headlining this summer, we’re already trying to source tickets for this festival run by indie label Arts & Crafts. Meanwhile May 6-10 sees the Canadian Music Fest ( take over the city. Under the umbrella of Canadian Music Week, CMF is a showcase for a thousand bands across every venue downtown, including Ellie Goulding, M.I.A and The 1975.

Scenes from 2013’s Toronto International Film Festival – Sandra Bullock on the red carpet, top, and Pierce Brosnan and Emma Thompson playing peekaboo, above. Right, Chvrches’ frontwoman Lauren Mayberry performing at last year’s Canadian Music Festival.

“I t’s easy to work Toron to out. P ublic transport works as a grid – the streetcars run east to west, the buses north to south. And there are only two subway lines ...” Susan O’Grady, music promoter, on her adopted city 108 |



’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´.

Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only


Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”

2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year

One happy diner at the Gladstone hotel, left, and below, its trés cool Room 404 Canadiana. Right, the Drake Hotel also makes for a hip haven.

Sleep at … Toronto may be low-key but it has a surprising amount of choice when it comes to luxury hotels, including The Four Seasons, The Trump (with its own chocolate lab), the 65-storey Shangri-La which, handily for visiting A-listers, is connected to private club Soho House by a walkway, The Hazelton Hotel, Thompson Residences and The Fairmont Royal York. The Royal York (100 Front Street West, +1 416 368 2511; is worth a stay if you’re deep of pocket. At one time the tallest building in the British Empire, its history is tied to that of Canada’s, so if you want some heritage but can’t afford the room rate, pop in for afternoon tea. For Toronto glamour that isn’t as tough on the wallet, the boutique Drake Hotel (1150 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 5042; is a must. Celebrating its ten-year anniversary this year, the owners plan to continue the cutting-edge vibe. Rooms have a laidback charm and showcase emerging artists, while downstairs there is always something interesting happening – a poetry slam, music, community art projects, free pancake breakfasts ... It’s a hip Canadian experience. Boutique hotel the Gladstone also has interesting gallery spaces and artistdesigned bedrooms (1214 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 4635; Further east along Queen Street West, The Beverley Hotel (+1 416 493 2786; is a smart boutique spot with 18 rooms and a great restaurant. For budget napping, Super 8 (222 Spadina Avenue, +1 647 426 8118; in Chinatown will have your credit card thanking you.

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Tacos, tequila and a movie al fresco, above – what’s not to love at the Drake’s Sky Yard Bar? Left and right, Bellwoods Brewery has become a Toronto institution for craft beer lovers.

If there is one thing Toronto excels at it is bars, which cater for every sub-culture imaginable. You can always swing by the aforementioned iconic Drake Hotel’s Sky Yard Bar, which is decked out like a campsite (minus the grizzlies) with tents, skis and toboggans around a fire pit. It isn’t cheap but worth the stretch for a flying visit. Pop in there for tacos and catch an outdoor movie – the entertainment choices are always a wow. Sweaty Betty’s (13 Ossington Avenue, +1 416 535 6861) is a no-nonsense haunt that draws the hipsters. Always crowded, always low-key, go with a crowd for conversation and a good jukebox. Bellwoods Brewery (124 Ossington Avenue, + 1 416 535 4586; is a member of that emerging species known as a brewpub. The Brewery has been offering up its own creations since 2012 and gathering nothing but praise – a prime evening spot for the craft beer connoisseur.


Drink at …


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“When people visit on holiday Retail (and caffeine) therapy … all about neighbourhoods in Toronto – and Kensington Market they stick to Down town – the CN Tower It’s is a prime example of the ethnic diversity that makes this city buzz. With graffiti-sprayed frontages, scruffy shops and stalls out front, and the business distric t. Bu t I think side by side with cool coffeehouses, it may look a bit of a dive but that’s part of its appeal – so get there before gentrification kicks you have to go out and explore or you’ll in. Kensington is known for its vintage shopping. Courage My Love (14 Kensington Avenue, +1 416 979 1992) is the lodestone, a cavern miss things. I live in Queen West – it’s of leather and suede. But any of the many stores along its streets can yield pre-loved treasures. Re-caffeinate between browsing the shops at the long-established Moonbean Café (30 St Andrew a real cool little area with lo ts of coffee Street, +1 416 595 0327;, which offers a zillion varieties of bean and is always bustling. shops and vin tage stores.” If you’re looking for a beer, there’s no better place than the


Susan says:

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Above – pull up a bar stool at P&L Burger, a spin-off diner of Parts & Labour, which won the title of Best Hamburger in Toronto. Opposite, street art in Kensington Market and, left, vintage wheels add to the neighbourhood’s retro vibe.

patio at the laid-back Ronnie’s Local 069 (69 Nassau Street, +1 416 340 1110). While its casual Brit vibe can seem a tad forced, it’s a great place to unwind after a day of trawling rails for bargains. Another up-and-coming ’hood worth a stroll is Parkdale. This west of Downtown district has emerged as a proper creative hub, with low rents attracting a whole new population. Time your visit for a burger at Parts & Labour (1566 Queen Street West, +1 416 588 7750;, which won the title of Best Hamburger in Toronto, and has just launched a burger-only spin-off further east along Queen Street called P&L Burger (don’t despair veggies, try their Big Tempeh patty). Otherwise, there are hipster cafés such as The Abbot (99 Spencer Avenue) with its fair-trade Canterbury coffee sourced from Vancouver, or cutesy tea shops such as 1940s-style Kitten and the Bear (1574 Queen Street West; On Sunday, May 3, check out the pop-up market, Parkdale Flea (1266 Queen Street West; parkdaleflea. com) for antiques, secondhand books, vintage gear, cool crafts and artisan produce.


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“In summer, ren t a co ttage on the lakes of On tario. I t’s the ultima te Canadian experience, sitting on the deck by the water.”

The music insider …

“One way to discover the city is through music. It’s a music city. Everyone plays here. There’s the legendary Horseshoe Tavern (370 Queen Street West; that’s a Dublin Whelan’s-type venue but smaller. You might not know the name of the band playing but you’re guaranteed they will be brilliant. For wintertime or in bad weather, I like a music venue called The Dakota Tavern (approx $18 for all you can eat – 249 Ossington Avenue; They do a ‘blue grass brunch’ and on a miserable day you can go down to a dark basement and this trippy bluegrass band plays from 10am to 2pm – real family style with kids running around and dancing to the music. The festivals are great. North by Northeast is Toronto’s version of SXSW in Texas, it’s a week-long music, film, arts and comedy festival (June 13-22; You get a wristband that gets you into every single show and venues all over the city. You can go up by Bloor and to Lee’s Palace

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Susan O’Grady is a music industry veteran based in Toronto with the international talent collective Star House. She shares her inside track to music in the city.

(529 Bloor Street West; and then catch a latenight show at The Horseshoe. I got to see Chvrches in Hoxton (69 Bathurst Street; last year – they’ve blown up now but that was a small little venue – and then saw Villagers in The Great Hall (1087 Queen Street West; Running around the city like that? It’s brilliant. On April 2, James Vincent McMorrow is in the Danforth Music Hall (147 Danforth Avenue; That’s an amazing venue next door to a place called Dora Keogh’s (141 Danforth Avenue;, a really cute Irish bar that I go to. There are loads of independent record stores here – Rotate This (801 Queen Street West;, June Records on College Street (662 College Street; Independent music is still going strong here. Also there are many gorgeous bookshops such as Type (883 Queen Street West;”

Above right, our music insider, Susan O’Grady, who swapped Dublin for Toronto. Above, a cosy spot in the Irish pub Dora Keogh’s and, left, singer Alex Parker tinkling the ivories at Dakota Tavern.



Eat at ...

48 hours in

Newcastle The once industrial city is gaining a rep as the hipster capital of northern Britain. Pól Ó Conghaile checks it out. Don’t miss ...

ART Antony Gormley’s Angel of the North is an iconic attraction but it’s just the beginning of your cultural fix in NewcastleGateshead. The BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art (Gateshead Quays, +44 191 478 1810; mounts everchanging exhibitions in a converted flourmill reminiscent of London’s Tate Modern. Upper-storey views over The Sage Gateshead conference centre, the River Tyne and its bridges are stunning, and there’s a pretty nifty gift shop too. NEIGHBOURHOOD Ouseburn Valley was the cradle of Tyneside's industrial revolution. Today, there’s an agreeably artsy, beatnik feel to the old redbrick streets, with galleries such as The Biscuit Factory, (, above right, lining up next to funky pubs, vintage car garages and – bizarrely – an urban farm and stables. If you’re visiting with kids, make a beeline for Seven Stories (+44 845 271 0777; the National Centre for Children’s Books. MUSEUM Newcastle has a storied history and the Discovery Museum (Blandford Square; +44 191 232 6789; is the place to explore it. There are quality interactive displays here, but the highlight is the Turbinia, the first ship to be powered by a steam turbine.

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This page, left, the state-of-the-art Biscuit Factory; below, the delicate arc of Millennium Bridge.

PUB GRUB Stashed under the stanchions of Tyne Bridge, The Bridge Tavern (7 Akenside Hill; +44 191 261 9966) looks like a movie set in the making. Craft ale is brewed on site, and a tasty menu ranges from sharing plates to “bar bait” snacks and mains, such as a stonking beer-battered haddock, chips and mushy peas that’ll leave you with change of a tenner. BAKE-OFF Pink Lane is one of Newcastle’s sweetest treats – a snaking medieval alley dotted with bars, coffee shops and one-offs, such as The Sugar Down Bakery (40a Pink Lane; +44 191 261 0606). This artisan gem is chocca with cinnamon buns, apple slices, lemon drizzle cakes and more. Behind the counter, you’ll find a chatty baker up to her elbows in flour. HERITAGE Newcastle’s Dominican friary dates from 1239 but today its atmospheric old buildings are home to one of the city’s most talked-about restaurants. Blackfriars (Friars Street, +44 191 261 5945; blackfriarsrestaurant. serves “classic but gutsy” British food with a focus on local ingredients. Large groups can also order medieval meals (three courses including a glass of ale or wine, £32).

Sleep at ...

SPLURGE Hotel du Vin (City Road, +44 084 473 64259;, right, specialises in boutique hotels in historic buildings. Newcastle’s offering is a handsome, 42-bed redbrick in the former home of the Tyne Tees Steam Shipping Company. A winetasting room and bistro serving French classics “with a British twist” seal the deal. Rooms from £99. MID-PRICE A new boutique hotel, Hotel indigo (2-8 Fenkle Street, +44 191 300 9222; hotelindigonewcastle. is in the heart of Grainger Town. Crushed velvet fabrics, a Marco Pierre White restaurant, free Wi-Fi and champion rain-showers make it a great designer base for a city break. Rooms from around £96.

BUDGET Sleeperz (15 Westgate Road; +44 191 261 6171; sleeperz. com) is close to Newcastle’s central railway station, nightlife and shopping districts. Free Wi-Fi, gratis calls to UK landlines and laptop safes feature across 98 rooms, and the hotel runs a pretty good blog too. B&B from £55.

Shop at ...

Drink at ...

TUNES Tucked beneath Byker Bridge in Ouseburn Valley, The Cluny (36 Lime Street, +44 191 230 4474;, top left, is an easygoing bar with a reputation for live music. New York Dolls, Rocket from the Crypt and The xx have all played in its intimate venue space, and you can also chill out amidst the worn furniture, wooden floors and rock‘n’roll photography of the pub itself. HIP Squirrelled away on Pink Lane, it’s hard to believe The Forth (+44 191 232 6478; theforthnewcastle. was once famous for hosting Victorian boxing matches. Big picture windows frame a cosy interior by day and a mix of hipsters and

30-somethings by night. DJs build the mood on weekends, when it can get crowded on weekend nights – although nothing like the circus unfolding on Newcastle’s Diamond Strip. There’s a heated rooftop garden too. FOOTIE Newcastle is crammed with generic clubs and cocktail bars, but it also retains its share of oldschool boozers (thank the Lord). The Strawberry (7-8 Strawberry Place; sits across the road from St James’s Park in a standalone house reminiscent of Mr Fredricksen’s in the film Up. It’s a classic supporters’ pub, with a name evoking strawberry wine sold by nuns in the 1700s.

This page, clockwise from left, Anthony Gormley's “Angel of the North”; al fresco snacks at The Cluny; boutique chic at Hotel du Vin; retail therapy at Freefall.

Shopping is Newcastle’s single biggest surprise. Anyone expecting poky shops in coalstained streets will be amazed at the range of boutiques, malls, indie shops and markets crammed into the city centre. Metrocentre (+44 191 493 0219; and Eldon Square (+44 191 261 1891; eldonsquare) are the megamalls, but there are plenty of individual gems in Grainger Town too. The High Bridge Quarter ( is the go-to strip for alternative stores, such as Freefall (+44 191 231 2156; freefalluk. com), left, or Attica (+44 191 261 4062; Both work a vintage niche, with products ranging from 1920s cocktail dresses to Wonderwoman coasters. Grainger Market is a Newcastle institution. Its patchwork of fishmongers, butchers and haberdashers dates from the 1820s, with nuggets including one of the oldest M&S branches in existence.



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Good Eatin Guide



Urban Elegance


Café Grafton Street

Bewley’s Café Grafton Street has been stirring the hearts of a nation for generations. Boasting a rich cultural and architectural heritage, it is also home to the magnificant stained glass windows by renowned artist Harry Clarke.

78/79 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Phone: 01 672 7720 Email:

Come and enjoy our award winning hand-roasted coffee and delicious freshly baked desserts in a beautiful surrounding.

Housed in the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, the IRISH MUSEUM OF MODERN ART (IMMA) is one of the finest 17th-century buildings in Ireland – it’s worth a visit for the courtyard alone, and curates some of the country’s most dynamic contemporary art. (Military Road, Dublin 8, 01 612 9900;

INDUSTRY would not be out of place in Berlin or Copenhagen. It’s a homeware store selling vintage, upcycled and new textiles, plus beautifully handcrafted furniture and accessories, amazing wool blankets and great gifts. (Drury Street, Dublin 2, 01 613 9111;

An insider’s guide to

Dublin Living Dinners chef and pop-up princess Katie Sanderson takes us on a tasty trip across Dublin city.

GROGAN’S PUB A favourite watering hole of the poet Patrick Kavanagh, it’s the perfect place for long conversations with strangers and somewhere that “just the one” often turns into many pints. Grogan’s is still a preferred destination for many poets and artists, and also a wonderful people-watching spot. (South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 677 9320;

Starting at 8am on Saturday,, TEMPLE BAR FOOD MARKET is where e locals go to get some of the city’s best st vegetables (from the McNally stall), fresh h baked sourdough (Le Levain), oysters, s, coffee, juice and all-things edible. Gett there early to avoid disappointment, a walk through Temple Bar in the morningg is probably the nicest time to visit thiss cultural quarter – before the rest of the tourists arrive! Also, stop by the Gutter er Bookshop (, or checkk out the shops around Cow’s Lane..


More about out Katie

Katie Sanderson was born in Hong a, Kong, lived in Kenya, in but has called Dublin home for the last 15 years. She has th worked as a chef both here and abroad, and last year launched a series of raw food pop-ups called Livingg Dinners in unusual locations (livingdinners. com/@livingdinners). She also collaborated on a temporary vegetarian café in Temple Bar Gallery called The Hare, and this summer is working on Dillisk, a temporary restaurant in the west of Ireland: a converted boat shed serving up tasting menus made from nationally sourced produce.

Over on Merrion Row, ETTO (01 678 8872; is a new wine bar and Italian-inspired eatery, above, that does great lunches, brilliant dinners, and has a wine menu that focuses on interesting grape varieties and small producers. Relatively small – so frequently packed, due to its deserved popularity – it’s best to book well ahead to secure a table. It’s also a stone’s throw away from Dublin’s brilliant Natural Museum of Ireland – Natural History, left (01 677 7444;


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HAPPENINGS run pop-up cultural events around Dublin city, including open-air film screenings. As we’re not blessed with reliable weather, events are only released 24 hours beforehand. They also do Saturday morning yoga in Dartmouth Square that will get your weekend off to a very relaxing start (; @happenings).

Take a DART ride outside the city along the coast to SEAPOINT or the FORTY FOOT at Sandycove. On summer evenings, people gather at both of these points to take a rather chilly (but amazing!) dip in the Irish Sea.

On the first and last Sundays of the month Newmarket Square is transformed into two amazing markets: DUBLIN FLEA ( and FUSION SUNDAYS (@fusionsundays) respectively. Dublin Flea has more than 70 stalls, selling everything old and unwanted, from bikes and records to clothes and random bric-a-brac – serious bargains. Fusion brings together food and cultures from around the world in a feast for the senses, while still being totally chilled. Think African drums, shiatsu, Japanese pancakes and Moroccan mint tea.

KELLY’S HOTEL is smack-bang in the hustle and bustle but a lovely hid hideaway all the same. With only 16 ro rooms – including great doubles and a loft-style penthouse – it’s situated ab above No Name Bar, Hogan’s, and L’ L’Gueuleton, one of Dublin’s bestlo loved French restaurants and the pl place where breakfast is served. Ro Rooms from €74. (35-37 South Gr Great Georges Street, Dublin 2, 01 648 0010; Nestled in the basement of the National College of Art and Design (NCAD), is a gem of a café serving soup, sandwiches and cups of tea called LUNCHEONETTE. Nothing costs more then €5; there are cosy little corners, art by proxy and a teacup installation. (Thomas Street, Dublin 2; luncheonette.html)

A little away from the centre of town but only a wee stroll down the quays. STONEYBATTER has some great attractions. THE LILLIPUT PRESS (Sitric Road; is an independent publisher and a great place to find some limited editions or rare texts, while THE JOINERY ( across the road is a not-for-profit art space, and hosts really great music evenings.

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In nearby Smithfield THE LIGHT HOUSE ( is one of the most comfortable cinemas with a relaxing downstairs bar and a wide array of mainstream and more specialised films.

closer than you think

Just 100 meters from Shannon Airport

Park Inn by Radisson Shannon Airport Co. Clare, Ireland T: +353 (0)61 471 122, F: +353 (0)61 471 982



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Up, up and away

The international airline business took off 100 years ago when the first paying customer climbed onboard and strapped himself in. Ben Webb reports on the birthday celebrations. n a hot and sunny day a century ago the first-ever commercial flight took off from St Petersburg, Florida, and ended a mere 29.93 kilometres away on the opposite side of Tampa Bay. It only lasted 23 minutes and the sole passenger, Abram C. Pheil, a former local mayor, had stumped up a whopping $400 for the ticket at auction – a fortune in 1914 – but he also knew he had bought a little bit of history. Today, with commercial flights criss-crossing the skies, the gravitydefying romance of flying in a plane has almost been lost. The growth of commercial aviation has been astounding. Every day more than eight million people fly. In 2014, total passenger numbers are expected to grow to 3.3 billion – or the equivalent of 44 per cent of the world’s population. Those who want to pay for a slice of aviation glamour now sign up for a trip into space with Virgin Galactic! Or, if they are happy to watch, they can head for one of the many air shows held in Ireland and the UK. The Bray Air Spectacular (July 20; is a chance to enjoy the aerial acrobatics from the picturesque beach of this Wicklow town. Fans of the glamour and skill of the world-famous Red Arrows can aim for the Northern Ireland Airshow (September 6-7; in Portrush, Coleraine. When it comes to producing a fantastic cast of aviation stars, it’s hard to beat the UK’s biannual Farnborough Airshow (July 19-20; farnborough. com) – this year it boasts a fourand-a-half hour “bumper-tobumper” flypast.


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Ireland, of course, has a proud aviation history, including the first transatlantic flight. It’s not hard to imagine the relief John Alcock and Arthur Brown felt as they spied the west coast after bouncing over the waves from Newfoundland in a converted First World War Vickers Vimy bomber. The landing was undignified – nose down in a Galway bog – but the pair walked away heroes. Later, during the 1930s and 1940s, the humble town of Foynes, Co Limerick, was thrust into the aviation spotlight. Huge seaplanes with their thrumming propellers were the only craft large enough to make the transatlantic journey and Foynes was Europe’s first and last port of call. In 1936 the first Aer Lingus plane took off, flying across the Irish Sea from Baldonnel Aerodrome to Bristol, and in 1958 its transatlantic flights began, the year the distinctive Shamrock replaced the Irish flag on the tail of the company’s planes. On January 1 this year a replica of the rickety airboat that made that first commercial flight took off from St Petersburg and flew across the bay to Tampa, a powerful reminder of just how much progress can be made in one century. “Aviation has always been a team effort,” declares Tony Tyler, CEO of the International Air Transport Association. “Sustainably spreading the benefits of connectivity will require the industry, governments, regulators and local communities to keep true to the ‘all-in-it-together’ ethos that was the bedrock of that pioneering first flight. We look forward to creating an equally remarkable legacy for commercial aviation’s second century.”

Blast from the past – a vintage Aer Lingus plane at 2012’s Bray Air Display, top. Formation flying at Eastbourne, above.

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Eastbourne International Airshow, August 14-17, Sussex, UK Voted the best free UK airshow, this four-day, seafront airshow regularly features the Red Arrows, Eurofighter Typhoon and F-16 along with many other amazing fast jets. Flying Boat Museum Foynes, Limerick, Ireland The only dedicated flying boat museum in the world. The star exhibit is a unique replica Boeing 314 – the ultimate Pan Am Clipper flying boat. And did you know that Irish Coffee was devised in Foynes to warm up chilly travellers returning from an aborted flight? Why not order one at the bar? Rockford AirFest, June 7-8, Chicago Rockford International Airport, US The headliners at this classic air show are the… wait for it… Thunderbirds. If the name alone doesn’t whet your appetite, then the high-speed acrobatics of the United States Air Force demonstration certainly will.

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SPOTLIGHT Belfast Compiled by Lucy White

TOP TABLE Belfast’s restaurant scene is in rude health. Home (Wellington Place;, right, a downturn-era pop-up success story is still going strong thanks to its locallysourced ethos. Also flying the flag for indigenous produce is OX (Oxford St;, which exceeded the hype after last year’s launch – food done slow and seasonal, and sans pomp. And a trip to Belfast would not be complete without craft beer and comfort food at the city’s oldest boozer,

SASSY Ten Square Positioned behind City Hall, everything is right on Ten Square’s doorstep. And despite the centrality, its 22 rooms are surprisingly quiet. They’re also stylish and spacious, with jolts of red and purple across its muted palette. The public areas have a pseudoOriental feel, including the buzzy Grill Room steakhouse. Double rooms from £90.

Crown Liquor Saloon (Great Victoria St;, with its fine stained glass windows and individual snugs.

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WIGGLE AT … Sonorities Celebrating its tenth year at Queen’s University’s Sonic Arts Research Centre, this festival of contemporary music is the go-to if you’ve started grumbling that “all modern music sounds the same”. Check out Chicagobased twiddler/author Nic Collins performing with meta-trumpet ace Jonathan Impett. April 30 to May 4;

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GIGGLE AT … What Would Beyoncé Do? You don’t have to be a fan of Ms Knowles – or be female – to find Luisa Omielan’s one-woman show at the MAC hilarious. A hit at last year’s Edinburgh Festival, this redemptive yarn about a woman’s painful break-up has light and shade in equal parts. Expect a fierce and funny performance by a bold new talent. April 10-12.

BROWSE … ReFound Flying the flag for up-cycling is this threestorey showroom-cumstudio, in which homewares have been reclaimed and gussied up by local designers and craft-folk. You may not be able to fit a sideboard in your suitcase, but there are some lovely screen-printed totes, watch pieces fashioned into rings and pendants made from old coins.

SMART Fitzwilliam Belfast Bygone flourishes make this contemporary four-star hotel feel rather special. From monochrome tiled bathrooms to accents of chartreuse, the Fitzwilliam takes all the best bits from Art Deco and reconfigures it for modern tastes. Great location beside the Grand Opera House too. Cocktail masterclasses and Murder Mystery packages available. Double rooms from £130.

SWANKY The Merchant If you fancy a treat, look no further than this old dame. Victorian drama meets Art Deco elegance, its appropriately-named Great Hall dining room resembling a Baz Luhrmann set-piece. There’s also a busy jazz club, a champagne bar, spa and a rooftop gym resplendent with an outdoor hot tub. Double rooms from £168.

Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile Onboard your transatlantic flight today Wi-Fi Onboard Communicate with friends and family, launch your business to new heights or browse your favourite websites as you fly onboard today. You can connect via any Wi-Fi enabled device. Follow these simple steps to get connected.

Switch on Switch on your device when it is safe to do so and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Mobile Onboard Text, email and browse the web from the air with our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile. Connect instantly and keep in touch with friends and family through your mobile as you glide across the Atlantic.

Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

Purchase Internet Access Click the 'Buy Internet Access' button to purchase a session, then choose a tariff. Your browsing session can last one hour or you can purchase a 24 hour pass.

Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

Username and Password

Switch on Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is in silent or vibrate mode.

Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. Standard roaming rates apply.

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.



Remember: Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and incurring roaming charges.

You are now free to browse, email and surf the internet... enjoy!

One hour pass €10.95 | $14.95 24 hour pass €19.95 | $24.95

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email, and browsing the internet.

Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator



Welcome Aboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. DEVICES PERMITTED AT ANY ✔ TIME: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.


LANDING: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/ recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. DEVICES PROHIBITED AT ALL ✘ TIMES: Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as

walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

A330 aircraft fitted with Wi-Fi and a Mobile Network Wireless settings on your personal electronic devices can be turned on in-flight. If availing of the Mobile Network, phones should not be switched to “Flight” or “Flight Safe” mode.

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Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✔ CEADAITHE I GCÓNAÍ: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.


BHFUIL CEADAITHE LE LINN DON EITLEÁN BHEITH AG GLUAISEACHT AR TALAMH/AG ÉIRÍ DE THALAMH/ AG TABHAIRT FAOIN DREAPADH TOSAIGH/ AG DÍRIÚ AR THUIRLINGT/ AG TUIRLINGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✘ COSC IOMLÁN ORTHU: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

Tá ár n-eitleán A330 feistithe amach le WI-FI agus líonra móibíleach. Tá ár n-eitleán A330 feistithe amach le WI-FI agus líonra móibíleach. Is féidir leat an líonra gan sreang ar do ghléas phearsanta leictreonach a chur ar siúl nuair atá an t-eitleán san aer. Má tá tú chun úsáid a bhaint as an líonra móibíleach, níor chóir do na fóin a bheith casta chuig an mód ‘Eitilt’ nó an mód ‘Eitilt Slán’.

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. TOBAC De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant

flight. Thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus. Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.


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Aer Lingus news INTRODUCING OUR AMBASSADOR Irish golfer Paul McGinley has been announced as an Aer Lingus ambassador. Paul has the illustrious honour of captaining the European Ryder Cup team as they aim to retain the famous trophy at Gleneagles in Scotland this September. He’s pictured here with cabin crew Muriel Cooke and Ana Tobiasova.

New Boeing B757 for Boston route Aer Lingus launched its inaugural Boeing B757 service from Shannon to Boston in February, marking the commencement of the airline’s major transatlantic expansion in 2014. This expansion plan includes new routes from Dublin to San Francisco and Toronto, as well as frequency increases on services from Shannon to Boston and New York. This is the first of two Boeing B757 aircraft that will be based at Shannon, replacing a single Airbus A330, resulting in flights between Shannon and Boston operating daily, while flights between Shannon and New York will operate six times weekly, starting on March 30. The increased frequency opens up additional connectivity to almost 40 cities in North America through Aer Lingus’ partner airline, Jetblue Airways, allowing passengers to connect seamlessly to cities such as Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Seattle, Philadelphia, New Orleans, Fort Lauderdale, Phoenix, Washington, Orlando and Dallas. For more info, visit

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Evening, all Want to avoid the early morning queues at check-in? Well, Aer Lingus has the answer to a stress-free airport experience at Dublin Airport that will keep all the family happy. Customers can now avail of the advance check-in service, which affords them the convenience of checking-in their baggage at the airport the evening before their flight. This complimentary service is available to customers travelling with Aer Lingus from Dublin Airport, and is particularly beneficial for families travelling with young children. After using evening check-in, customers can bypass the busy morning queues and make their way straight to security screening and on to their respective boarding gates. Flights with early morning departures include many popular European destinations, such as Malaga, Faro, London and Paris.

It’s easy • Passengers can check-in between 4pm and 8pm the evening before they travel • The service is available exclusively to those travelling between 6am and 8am the following morning • Only one immediate family member needs to check-in for a family group, so long as all tickets, passports and bags are provided together. The rest of the family can relax at home or in their hotel • If a passenger is travelling alone, he or she simply needs to present their ticket, passport and baggage • The service is free of charge

LUXURY FOR LESS Aer Lingus is delighted to announce the launch of a new high-value brand onboard called Boutique, offering customers luxury shopping at discounted prices – on average you will save 30 per cent versus the high street. Boutique also offers amazing travel retail exclusives, such as the Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Set, for only €25, and also the Giorgio Armani Men Mini Book Coffret Set for only €33. Multi-award winning Irish designer Susannagh Grogan has designed two scarves exclusively for Boutique that retail onboard for €38, while Orla Kiely’s beautiful ladies tortoiseshell sunglasses retail onboard for €99, representing a saving of €57 over the high street. This Fossil Roley watch, right, retails onboard for €95 compared to €139 RRP. Included in Boutique are some amazing new gifts and gadgets, including an iPad cover with Bluetooth keyboard, which can be purchased onboard for €99, representing a saving of €31 from the high street, and the universal charger that’s available onboard for only €49. For all of those Aer Lingus collectors out there, included in Boutique’s Summer edition are two lovely branded items – the airplane construction set for €12, and our fun plane watch for €15. Great for both children and aviation lovers alike. Boutique represents big brands and big savings so you can shop to your heart’s content onboard with us today without having to leave your seat! Check out our new magazine now, it’s right in front of you ...

More is More Aer Lingus has launched a selection of delicious preorder meal options to its inflight menu Bia, in collaboration with chef and restaurateur, Clodagh McKenna. Available to customers travelling on short-haul flights, Bia now includes three brand new dishes which can be pre-ordered at New dishes include the Power Me Salad. Priced at €7.50, the gluten-free, spiced quinoa salad includes beetroot, carrot, chickpeas, sunflower seeds and rocket, and is accompanied by The Foods of Athenry gluten-free, multiseed crackers which won a Great Taste Award in 2012. The salad is served with a choice of tea or coffee and, also from The Foods of Athenry, a glutenfree, wheat-free and egg-free ch chocolate biscuit cake, and a pine pineapple and melon fruit pot. Elsewhere, a savoury ch cheddar, caramelised on onion and leek quiche is ac accompanied by Ballymaloe Re Relish and a fresh salad of rocket with an oil/ ba balsamic vinegar side dres dressing. The quiche is se served with McCambridge’s

Irish brown bread, a Lily O’Brien chocolate cluster and a choice of tea or coffee. This meal is also priced at €7.50. The final dish available is a macaroni cheese meal for kiddies, made with Irish cheddar and served with an apple and grapefruit pot, a scrumptious Lily O’Brien’s Uglies Cocoa Cookie and a kid’s Fruit Shoot drink. Available for €5, the meal includes colouring pencils and a colouring sheet to help keep little ones entertained. The menu, “Clodagh’s Kitchen for Bia”, also includes a range of fresh lunch and snack options including delicious freshly baked treats. The menu is now available on all short-haul Aer Lingus flights and will change twice yearly to reflect seasonal changes. Our customers’ feedback was clear. We never should have let it go. Now it’s back by popular demand – the chicken and stuffing sandwich. For more information, visit

Flying high Fl A familiar face onboard Aer Lingus flights, travelling between Irel Ireland and Paris, where he plays for Racing Metro, Irish rugby star Johnny Sexton is the pitch perfect fit as a new Aer Lingus br brand ambassador. New horizons –Johnny Sexton flanked by Aer Lingus air stewards Mary Wade, left, and Lynsey Warren, right.


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Revered filmmaker Martin Scorsese directs Oscar nominated The Wolf of Wall Street. Based on the memoirs of crooked broker Jordan Belfort (Leonardo DiCaprio) who, during the 1980s and 90s, enjoyed unlimited amounts of sports cars, drugs and prostitutes, paid for by millions of dupes and dopes buying his fraudulently inflated stocks. Finally, the FBI catch on, and (not too dissimilar to Henry Hill before him) Belfort has to swallow hard and confront the possibility of betraying his partners to minimise the inevitable jail term. STARS Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah Hill, Margot Robbie DIRECTOR Martin Scorsese

12 YEARS A SLAVE Drama (R)



Crime (R)

Documentary (PG13)

STARS Chiwetel Ejiofor, Lupita Nyong’o, Michael Fassbender

STARS Christian Bale, Amy Adams, Bradley Cooper

STARS Anton Corbijn, Bono, Martin Gore




Action (R)

Drama (PG13)

Comedy (PG13)

STARS Mark Wahlberg, Taylor Kitsch, Emile Hirsch

STARS Sophie Nélisse, Geoffrey Rush, Emily Watson

STARS Valérie Bonneton, Dany Boon, Denis Ménochet

AS COOL AS I AM Comedy (R) STARS Claire Danes, James Marsden, Sarah Bolger

A CINDERELLA STORY: ONCE UPON A SONG Comedy (PG) STARS Lucy Hale, Freddie Stroma, Missi Pyle

AUGUST: OSAGE COUNTY Drama (R) STARS Meryl Streep, Dermot Mulroney, Julia Roberts

MOON MAN Animation (G) VOICES OF Katharina Thalbach, Ulrich Tukur, Corinna Harfouch

AVAILABLE ON OUTBOUND AND INBOUND FLIGHTS AUSTRALIA Adventure (PG13) Nicole Kidman, Hugh Jackman, Bryan Brown BLACK SWAN Thrilller (R) Natalie Portman, Mila

Kunis, Vincent Cassel CASABLANCA Romance (PG) Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, Paul Henreid

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DOWN WITH LOVE Comedy (PG13) Ewan McGregor, Renée Zellweger, David Hyde Pierce FIGHT CLUB Drama (R) Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Helena Bonham Carter GONE WITH THE WIND Drama (PG) Clark Gable, Vivien Leigh, Thomas Mitchell GOODFELLAS Crime (R) Robert De Niro, Ray Liotta, Joe Pesci HIGHLANDER Action (R) Christopher Lambert,

BIG SUR Drama (R) STARS Jean-Marc Barr, Kate Bosworth, Josh Lucas


Sean Connery, Clancy Brown MASTER & COMMANDER: THE FAR SIDE OF THE WORLD Drama (PG13) Russell Crowe MATRIX RELOADED Action (R) Keanu Reeves, Laurence Fishburne, Carrie-Anne Moss MATRIX REVOLUTION Action (R) Keanu Reeves, Laurence Fishburne, Carrie-Anne Moss MEN OF HONOR Drama (R) Cuba Gooding Jr., Robert De Niro, Charlize Theron



Ron Woodroof, an electrician and rodeo cowboy with a devil-may-care lifestyle is blindsided with an HIV positive diagnosis and given 30 days to live. He finds a lack of approved medications in the US and crosses the border into Mexico where he learns about alternative treatments and begins smuggling them back to the US. Ron finds an unlikely ally in fellow AIDS patient and transexual, Rayon. They establish a “buyers club,” where people with HIV pay monthly dues for access to the newly acquired supplies. Ron’s pioneering collective beats loud and strong as he fights for dignity, education and acceptance. STARS Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Jared Leto DIRECTOR Jean-Marc Vallée



Drama (R)

Sport (PG13)


STARS Robin Weigert, Maggie Siff, Johnathan Tchaikovsky

STARS Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone, Kim Basinger




Fantasy (PG13)

Action (PG13)

Comedy (PG)

STARS Ian McKellen, Martin Freeman, Richard Armitage

STARS Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Liam Hemsworth

STARS Ben Stiller, Kristen Wiig, Jon Daly

Drama (R) STARS Oscar Isaac, Carey Mulligan, John Goodman



Drama (PG13)

Drama (PG)

STARS Idris Elba, Naomie Harris, Terry Pheto

STARS Christopher Plummer, Frank Langella, Ed Begley Jr.



Animation (G) VOICES OF Woody Harrelson, Owen Wilson, Dan Fogler

Adventure (PG) VOICES OF Jim Sturgess, Hugo Weaving

AVAILABLE ON OUTBOUND AND INBOUND FLIGHTS MR. MAGORIUM’S WONDER EMPORIUM Comedy (G) Natalie Portman, Dustin Hoffman, Jason Bateman SAY ANYTHING Comedy (R) John Cusack, Ione Skye, John Mahoney SINGIN’ IN THE RAIN Comedy (G) Gene Kelly, Donald O’Connor, Debbie Reynolds

SOMETHING’S GOTTA GIVE Romance (PG13) Jack Nicholson, Diane Keaton, Keanu Reeves THE BRIDGES OF MADISON COUNTY Drama (PG13) Clint Eastwood, Meryl Streep, Annie Corley THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA Comedy (PG13) Anne Hathaway, Meryl Streep, Adrian Grenier THE MASK Comedy (PG) Jim Carrey, Cameron Diaz, Peter Riegert THE MATRIX Action (R) Keanu Reeves, Laurence

OUT OF THE FURNACE Thriller (R) STARS Christian Bale, Casey Affleck, Zoe Saldana


Fishburne, Carrie-Anne Moss THE SHAWSHANK REDEMPTION Drama (R) Tim Robbins, Morgan Freeman, Bob Gunton TROY Adventure (R) Brad Pitt, Eric Bana, Orlando Bloom WALK THE LINE Drama (PG13) Joaquin Phoenix, Reese Witherspoon, Ginnifer Goodwin WITCHES OF EASTWICK Fantasy (R) Jack Nicholson, Cher, Susan Sarandon


| 133




On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids’ programmes.


Anthony Bourdain

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS Lifestyle highlights include Living the Wildlife, Real Economy, Risk Takers, Hi-Tech, Pawn Stars, Imeall, Ceol ar an Imeall and hit National Geographic show, Megafactories. Food lovers have a plethora of choice, with Save with Jamie, Vine Talk, Kevin Dundon’s Modern Irish

Food, Choccywoccydoodah, Nick’s Bistro and a San Francisco based episode of The Layover with chef Anthony Bourdain. Sports fans can enjoy World of Tennis, HSBC Golfing World, and The Royal Battle, which features the 1991 GAA football battle between Dublin and Meath.

Documentary highlights include two episodes of The Men Who Built America; the story of the men who catapulted the United States into prosperity. Two episodes of Story of a Marque also feature. For Nature enthusiasts, there are two episodes of The Wild West and Animals are Amazing, along with one-off episodes of Sicily – Volcanic Beauty, Great Irish Journeys and Secrets of The Irish Landscape. Also available is the engineering show Megastructures, which takes us through the journey of German engineers as they attempt to build the world’s largest tunnel boring machine and use it to create the Sparvo Tunnel that connects

80s Greatest Germany and Italy. Similar in its innovative nature is 80s Greatest, which takes us on a trip down memory lane, showcasing some of the most innovative gadgets of the decade. For those who love to travel, join Danann Breathnach in Essentials and discover the cultural hub that is Istanbul, or take a look at Going Global for an insight into Air China’s network operations.

Eastbound and Down


Game of Thrones


As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with multiple episodes of the hottest drama from the US and UK available. Enjoy the entire season three boxset of Game of Thrones; a thrilling fantasy drama where seven noble families fight for control of the mythical land they call home. Set on the fictional continents of Westeros and Essos at the end of a decadelong summer, the series has received much critical acclaim and a large international fan base. Three episodes of all-time

134 |


Watch out for two episodes of HBO comedy, Eastbound and Down. Starring Danny McBride as Kenny Powers, a former professional baseball pitcher, who after an up and down career in the major leagues is forced to return to his hometown middle-school in Shelby, North Carolina, as a substitute physical education teacher. The series was produced by Will Ferrell’s production company, Gary Sanchez Productions.

New Girl Also on board are episodes of The Big Bang Theory, It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia and New Girl.

True Detective favourites Broadchurch and Doc Martin are also on board for your enjoyment, along with four brand new episodes of Boardwalk Empire, three episodes of Bones and two episodes of brand new True Detective, starring Matthew McConaughey.

Sofia the First


Kids can enjoy Disney’s Austin & Ally alongside all-time favourite cartoon series Tom & Jerry and Sofia the First. Also on board are multi-episode compilations and Originalos and Shaun the Sheep.

“They serve food in the most unpretentious and authentic manner possible, which is why you crave it so much.”


John McKenna, McKenna’s Guides


Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for:


• • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.

A vibrant Italian restaurant & extensive wine bar. 14 -16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6759892 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: 353 (1) 6673252



New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994


Web: Twitter: @USVisaExpert

A workshop of cutting edge Italian food. Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18 T: +353 (1) 216 6764 Kildare Retail Village, Chic Outlet Shopping, Co. Kildare T: +353 45 535850

Bar italia

The National Cathedral of Saint Patrick Dublin

Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant & pizzeria 26 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 T: +353 (1) 8741000

Celebrate that special occassion! Gift Vouchers available

Open Daily For Visitors phone: 01 4539472 | web:



ON DEMAND Talk Radio



NOVA Irish Classic Rock

The Blue of the Night

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Tubridy on 2fm

Contemporary easy-listening collection from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website, for more information.

Ryan Tubridy’s unique showmanship and wit is broadcast to the nation every weekday morning. Spontaneous, unpredictable, entertaining and intelligent, Tubridy takes in everything from the day’s news to huge competitions, from big interviews to human-interest stories. Ryan Tubridy is one of Ireland’s most prolific broadcasters and his RTÉ 2fm show raises the bar for morning radio. For more follow Ryan on Twitter @Tubridy2FM.



Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Irish Poetry Corner

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. This exciting compilation features artists such as the Little Mix, Lorde, Avicii and Ed Sheeran. Listen out for more of your favourite artists and enjoy!

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Its insightful and different format gives listeners a unique experience. Tune in every weekday 1.50-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108 FM. Text 53106, email afternoon@ or follow Seán on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta, the national Irish-language broadcaster in Ireland. You can hear many more programmes similar to this on the station. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more, visit or follow on Twitter @RTERnaG.

136 |


Marty Miller, on the air, weekdays from 6am GMT with “Morning Glory on Radio NOVA 100FM”. Playing seriously addictive music and having a lot of CRAIC along the way. Now for 60 minutes, Marty’s here with some of the greatest front men in rock ... and of course their bands! With Aer Lingus, sit back, turn up your headphones and enjoy your flight!

Each night of the week on RTÉ lyric fm, The Blue Of The Night broadcasts a blend of singersongwriter, jazz, roots, folk, world, ambient and classical music that is both relaxing and stimulating. In this bespoke edition made for Aer Lingus, host Carl Corcoran presents virtuosic pianist Brad Mehldau performing the works of Nick Drake, Dublin Guitar Quartet performing Philip Glass as well as tracks from Cecilia Bartoli’s album, Sospiri.





Tales from the Opera

Irish Pulse

Documentary On One

Top Ten

Join Liz Nolan and Tales from the Opera for the chronicles of passionate and spectacular art on Sundays at 7pm on 96-99 RTÉ lyric fm. For this flight, Tales from the Opera invites you to celebrate one of the greatest opera stars of the 20th century – Maria Callas.

Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs and artists in recent history. Listen out for hits from U2, The Dubliners, The Cranberries, Rory Gallagher, Thin Lizzy, The Frames and many more!

Documentary On One is the multiaward winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (8890FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009. The documentaries featured are Pregnant on my Lunchbreak and Dublin Council Messiah from the Curious Ear series.

Weekday mornings you’ll find Ray Foley & JP Gilbourne on 98FM! Join the boys for the funniest way to wake up in Dublin. There’ll be plenty of #bants as they cover the big issues and the, er, not-so-big, along with special guests and great prizes!




Folk, Roots



Jazz Alley

Roots Freeway

Join RTÉ’s digital presenter, Audrey Donohue and Captain Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift off to sleep. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time lullabies and meditations, all specially chosen for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in The Cosy Corner, it’s going to be a relaxing flight.

Join John Caddell as he brings you the best Alt-Rock tracks of recent months, along with a few classics of the genre. Hear Pearl Jam, Bloc Party, Blur, Le Galaxie, Arcade Fire and many more, brought to you by Ireland’s only Alternative Rock station, Phantom 105.2. Visit us online

Donald Helme, expert presenter of RTÉ lyric fm’s weekly programme Jazz Alley, takes us through some recent and exciting releases from the world of jazz music.

Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1 has established itself as the radio show to keep the listener informed and entertained in terms of Roots Music from around the world. Niall Toner presents his show on Saturday nights at 11pm. Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus, Niall brings you an eclectic mix of the very best in the genre from Ireland, Europe and the USA. Sit back, relax, and enjoy this selection, hand picked for you by a man who knows his Roots.


| 137


Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to allow your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs. If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Bank Holidays (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222



Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

10kg 55cm (22ins)

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

40cm (16ins)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

138 |


As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger.

The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you

home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.



Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street n Dublin 2 n Phone: 01 6771155

Email: Web:

“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices”


Courtyard Bar & Grill DONNYBROOK


Opening Times: Tues-Sat from 5.30pm / Sun from 12.30pm.


Tues/Wed/Thurs/Sun. Last orders at 6.45pm Fri & Sat 1 Belmont Avenue n Donnybrook n Dublin 4 n Tel: 01 5510555

Email: Web:

• One-day exclusive luxury tour from Dublin • Every Saturday from March 1-October 25 • Professional driver/guide

• Fast Track entrance to Titanic Experience • Belfast City Tour • Dublin hotel pick-up points • Price €65/€60

Exclusive to Booking and Information +353 (0)42 9378188 or your hotel concierge

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 1 675 9744





Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!



sh e Iri Fre iskey Wh tings Tas yday! r Eve



Belfast the Titanic Experience


30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) | T. +353 1 671 2292

SAINT STEPHENS GREEN INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING Like us on Facebook @ Celtic-Whiskey-ShopWines-On-The-Green

Follow us on Twitter @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen

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Suite 2553 17 Upper Pembroke Street, Dublin email

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Harnessing the power of nature. Irish rain combines nourishing plant extracts & vitamins to empower the skin to naturally replenish... restore... regenerate.


Route maps



Aberdeen Glasgow


Copenhagen Newcastle Isle of Man Blackpool Hamburg DUBLIN Manchester London Berlin Birmingham HEATHROW Amsterdam Hanover Kerry Cardiff London Dusseldorf SOUTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Prague Frankfurt Jersey Rennes






Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid Ibiza

Lisbon Faro




Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Pula Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik






Corfu Izmir





Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik Pula (new route

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Hanover

Ireland ■ Kerry

Poland Warsaw

Sweden Stockholm

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Greece Athens Corfu

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona

Turkey Izmir

Hungary Budapest

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

commencing 19 April 2014)

Morocco Agadir

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Manchester

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Jersey London Southend Manchester Newcastle

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit


| 141






BELFAST Manchester



SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow











Barcelona Palma Alicante Faro




Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick



Belgium Brussels

Portugal Faro

United Kingdom London Heathrow

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma

■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

Switzerland Geneva The Netherlands Amsterdam

Ireland Belfast Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON Canary Islands Lanzarote Portugal Faro Spain Malaga

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK United Kingdom London Gatwick

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

142 |



Toronto Chicago

Boston New York

San Francisco Shannon



To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN


USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco

USA Boston New York

Canada Toronto

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

HAer Lingus is flying direct from Dublin to Toronto and San Francisco from April 2014. Aer Lingus flights are available for sale on


| 143



Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee



Burbank Long Beach Orange County



Syracuse Ro Rochester

Buffalo lo

Portland ME

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego


Cleveland Dayton on

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Savannah



New Orleans

San Antonio

Charleston Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

San Juan


Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON, CHICAGO, TORONTO & SAN FRANCISCO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound flights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. Aer Lingus flights operate from T5 John F. Kennedy airport.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs

every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. ■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

■ SAN FRANCISCO Connecting with United Airlines at San Francisco Airport: Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin. ■ TORONTO Connecting with Air Canada at Toronto Pearson International Airport: Passengers from Canada to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the Air Canada departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin.

All routes correct at time of going to press

144 |



BOSTON Pi Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia NEW YORK Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati ncinna WASHINGTON Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DULLES uis Washington Wa NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Lex Richmond Ri Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Ra Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte arlo Knoxville Memphis CHICAGO



Grand Rapids




Aberdeen Edinburgh


Newcastle Isle of Man



Shannon Kerry




London SOUTHEND London

Cardiff Bristol






Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

Paris Vienna


Geneva Milan









Palma Alicante Faro

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus                          

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan Linate Milan Malpensa Munich Palma Paris Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional         

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Newcastle Kerry

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus  London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh


■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                           

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket Naples New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

            

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Savannah Seattle Stockholm Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue             

Baltimore Buffalo Charleston Charlotte Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Detroit Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach

                      

Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Oakland Orlando Philadelphia Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Savannah Seattle Stockholm Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington(National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA  Atlanta  Austin  Charlotte

                             

Charleston Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand Rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Knoxville Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans Oklahoma City Omaha

                  

Orange County Phoenix Pittsburgh Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Antonio San Diego San Francisco San Jose Santa Ana Seattle St Louis Stockholm Tampa Tulsa Wichita

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada      

Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA SAN FRANCISCO with United to USA        

Denver Las Vegas Los Angeles Phoenix Portland OR Salt Lake City San Diego Seattle

■ VIA TORONTO with Air Canada       

Calgary Edmonton Halifax Montreal Ottawa Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA BOSTON/ NEW YORK with Air Canada  Halifax  Toronto

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann APRIL/MAY 2014

| 145




Bahrain Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore



Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

146 |


Sydney Melbourne

DUNNE & CRESCENZI Italian Cookbook

Leading restauranteurs present some of the most popular dishes from their well loved Italian restaurant. ‘They serve food in the most unpretentious and authentic manner possible, which is why you crave it so much.’ John McKenna, McKenna’s Guides Order your hardback copy for €19.00 SHIPPING WORLDWIDE FREE POSTAGE 'The book is simply a celebration of the food served in D&C, recipes and all and that food is an extensio extension of Eileen and Stefano’s home kitchen and those of their relatives, friends and the Italian chefs they employ...The recipes are there not for you to admire; they are for you to cook with and, as befits the Italian idiom, there’s nothing in the book that even a beginner would find difficult to replicate...’ Ernie Whalley,

Order your copy today: Ph: 353 (1) 5240628


Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s


Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk


Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:


 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

148 |


London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

Cloghan Castle


First Class!

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow Cliffs of Moher

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains



loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers:

When in Nice,

Car Free - Care Free TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail:

Blarney Castle and Gardens

paint beside Matisse! CALL 01-2802797 and change your life forever! Both male & female therapists

American Restaurant & Bar



for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

consultants to tv3’s “inside and out”

Paul Goldin Clinic

Knapton Court, York Road, Dun Laoghaire thepaulgoldinclinic



BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050

Home From Home For €50,000, secure a 3 year stay in this newly built luxury residence set on 2 acres of grounds, half an hour’s drive from Cork city and airport.

1st. floor, on corner, 3 pl. Charles Felix, Cours Saleya. Just buzz the door.

Drop in & paint for just 25c/min. Everything supplied! 0033(0)

00353(0)868448683 0033(0) 00353(0)868448683 GRAFTON ACADEMY OF DRESS DESIGNING 76 YEARS OF CREATIVITY


(Establ: 1938)

No nursing care provided. Ideal for people who are able bodied and reasonably able minded. Contact 086 4084259

At Jin’s Art Studio,

Michelin Bib Gourmand


For the Irish & International Clothing Trade Also Short courses in Pattern Drafting & Sewing, Evenings, Weekends, throughout year & Summer day courses.

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

6 Herbert Place, Dublin 2 Tel:+353 16763653 / 6767940 Email:

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 •


Flight Connections




From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport. While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

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The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including:  Up to 15 security lanes  26 gates with seats aplenty  Free Wi-Fi  55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping  Large children’s play area and much more!


Brand new...


With lots of designer brands, even better discounts and a hot new lo ok (if we do say so ourselves), here are five great reasons to get your shop on in Boutique, the luxury shopping guide from Aer Lingus. JUST ¤12!

Don’t you just hate it when you realise, as you fly over Baden-Baden, that you’ve forgotten to buy your nearest and dearest a souvenir from your trip to Germany? No need to feel so baden, (sorry, we couldn’t resist), pick up the perfect present in-flight: we adore this pretty bird necklace from Aeon. It’s a travel exclusive too, which means double brownie points. Yesss!



Research has shown that scent can be a powerful memory trigger. Want to ensure your holiday is unforgettable? Buy a completely new fragrance now and wear throughout your trip. When you return home, every time you spritz it, you’ll think of your time away. Nice thought, no?



SAVE ¤44!


Fancy saving yourself, oh, €44 on this gorgeous rose gold Fossil watch? Okay, that’s a silly question, but it’s also exactly what you’ll get in the new issue of Boutique. Yes, you read that right – a saving of €44! You’ll also find discounted prices on pretty much everything else you could ever want – from the hottest fragrances to the prettiest jewellery, you can shop and save while you sit. It really doesn’t get any better, does it? TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE!


Forgot your shaving kit? Walked off without your phone charger? Left your fake eyelashes at home? (You never know, it could happen...)

Then pick them all up in Boutique. From sunglasses to speakers, serums to shampoos, we’ve got everything you need... and then some.

Last, but definitely not least, not only will you find your favourite brands in Boutique, you’ll also be able to snap up lots of amazing travel retail exclusives. Check out the St Tropez Instant Getaway Bronze kit for just €24 or the Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Set for €25 – it’s worth an amazing €75! Now, that’s what we call pretty fly...

Check out the brand new issue of Boutique (look, it’s right in front of you!). Better brands, bigger savings, shop to your heart’s content without having to get out of your seat. Perfect.


Larger than life

A visit to America at the age of twelve was like walking into the TV for actor Peter McDonald. y first trip to America came in 1984. I was twelve and our family was off to California for my uncle’s Silver Jubilee Mass, celebrating his 25th year as a priest. To say it was billed as the trip of a lifetime would be a gross understatement – if I were to live several lifetimes, this was still going to be the trip. None of my friends had been to America. I was a pre-pubescent Chris Columbus – a hairless St Brendan. My 14-year old sister, in a moment of giddy recklessness, got a perm for the trip, ending up with something akin to Ronald McDonald’s Afro – a gamble she has been made pay for time and time again in the shape of all those family photos. I had only been on a plane once before – over to London – and the idea of an eleven-hour flight on a huge 747 seemed almost to be a holiday in itself. A rumour that they showed movies on the flight seemed so fantastical that only when the opening credits of Footloose appeared on the little screen did I allow fiction to become reality.


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My uncle was the pastor in a parish in Ross, Marin County, just north of San Francisco. He arranged a house swap with a family in his congregation, neglecting to inform us that they lived in one of the most exclusive neighbourhoods in the state. Our suburban semi-d was far from the poverty line but you can imagine my parents’ bewilderment as they, jet-lagged beyond reason, walked into the luxury mansion: every bedroom en suite, a station wagon, sports convertible, a swimming pool, their fridge a double-decker monolith. We were puzzled by the oddlooking picnic table on the back patio, until Father Pete revealed a Jacuzzi with the lid on. At that age and in that era, it was like walking into the TV. We had been weaned on a diet of American television shows and the “reality” was just how we imagined it – or how it had been imagined for you. Everything was bigger: buildings taller, colours brighter, teeth whiter, voices more confident, lives more ... glamorous. On a trip to Disneyland in Los Angeles, we stopped near

West coast wonderland, above, and above right, actor/writer Peter McDonald all grown up and back in LA.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

San Diego to get some “gas”. A stretch limousine parked on the forecourt had an actual TV in the car. My younger brother ran over and, uninvited, climbed in for a demonstration. After the limo pulled out, an undercover cop dressed as a gas attendant approached us. A cocaine deal was due to go down; did we notice anything suspicious in the car? As far as I was concerned that guy was TJ Hooker. Or maybe, just maybe, he was simply a gas attendant. When we came back home, I remember how small everything suddenly looked as we drove home from the airport on a drizzly, grey morning. I sat in the back, impatient to tell everyone about my adventures in the New World. Father Pete passed away two years ago and I travelled with my parents back to the same neighbourhood for the arrangements and, this time, a funeral Mass. He was a great guy. So much had changed for both nations but, as the memories came flooding back, I wondered how the twelve-year-old me of today would experience the same trip. I know he would struggle to understand how quickly those 28 years can go by and how suddenly a good friend can be gone forever. Writer/actor Peter McDonald appears in The Stag in cinemas now.

Transform your Meetings Connected meetings with one touch Recent research by Microsoft revealed that people waste around 8-10 minutes setting up a meeting room. Combined with video conferencing systems not being well utilised and remote meeting attendees feeling isolated, meeting resources are becoming hard to manage. The SMART Room System® solves these problems by enabling everyone to contribute by sharing voice, video and data: • • • •

All participants can contribute regardless of their location Optimised for Microsoft® Lync® 2013 and Office 365® The ability to interact with the content makes for a truly collaborative meeting By simplifying the meeting experience, it improves efficiency, drives productivity and reduces costs

Inspire an improved way to collaborate by bringing Microsoft Lync® into the meeting room with SMART Room System.

Tel: +353 1 4016648 Email:

Don’t miss your next connection. “We are in the business of providing reliable and diverse services to our clients which is exactly what we get from UPC Business” Robert Henderson, ICT Operations Manager, The Convention Centre Dublin.

High Speed Broadband | Data Connectivity | Voice Solutions Fibre Networks | Wifi | Business TV

Contact us when you land.

Call: 1800 940 150 | Email: | Web: Also providing business telecommunications services in: Austria Belgium Chile Czech Republic Germany Poland Puerto Rico Romania Slovakia Switzerland

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