April/May CARA

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CARA Magazine April/May 2012

April/May 2012

Actress Glenn Close Irish rugby Kerry The Hamptons Berlin Verona


Fever Meet rugby star Jonny Sexton

Stockholm Joseph O’Connor


Actress Glenn Close visits Dublin


How to weekend in the Hamptons

Aer Lingus and UNICEF in Zambia

THE KINGDOM OF KERRY By bike, car or on foot PLUS Colm Tóibín on Listowel Writers’ Week

BOHEMIAN BERLIN Writer John Butler on the hipster’s city


Where to shop, sleep and sightsee

48 HOURS IN STOCKHOLM Explore the coolest city in caramagazine.com Northern Europe



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Contents April/May NEWS

04 ARRIVALS We meet Aer Lingus passengers in Dublin Airport’s T2 07 NEWS DIARY Must sees: Dates to note in April and May


Weekend in the Hamptons

08 NEWS HAPPENINGS It’s 100 years since the Titanic went down: Victoria White on commemorative events around the country 10 NEWS HOTEL Get five star treatment at our selection of luxury hotels 12 NEWS RESTAURANTS Serving up the latest in foodie news 14

NEWS PLACES Aoife O’Riordan hunts out Dublin’s foodie hotspots

16 NEWS SHOPPING Gadgets to Go: Sive O’Brien spills the beans on kiddie-friendly must-haves


FEATURES 28 IT’S A KNOCKOUT! It’s rugby season, Dave Robbins interviews some of the men (and women) behind the Heineken Cup

Berlin’s best

40 A CLOSE CALL Multi-awardwinning actress Glenn Close tells Tony Clayton-Lea about breaking the mould and Irishising Albert Nobbs

18 NEWS PEOPLE My Travel Tips – celebrated Irish composer Gerald Barry on his favourite places 20 NEWS PEOPLE What’s in my Suitcase – film director Dearbhla Walsh on her travel necessities; plus Easter events in Europe

46 THE KERRY WAY Pól Ó Conghaile gets into his stride in County Kerry

22 NEWS BUSINESS Off to the Big Apple? Architect Maxim Laroussi has advice for the business traveller; and the five best spots in Brussels

56 SUMMER LIVING New Yorker Julie Schwietert Collazo on how to village hop and people-watch in The Hamptons

24 NEWS BEAUTY TO GO Summer’s coming! Liz Dwyer goes light on foundation


It’s child’s play

64 THE BEAUTY OF BERLIN Irish writer John Butler visits one of his favourite cities

26 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life: Bridget Hourican gives us the low down on the latest reads

85 AIRSPACE The final extract of writer Joseph O’Connor’s poem celebrating Aer Lingus’s 75th anniversary

REGULARS 77 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO VERONA Mark Weston tells us where to go in Romeo and Juliet’s fair city 82 48 HOURS: IN STOCKHOLM Discover Stockholm’s gems with Philip O’Connor 89 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Movies, music and more inflight information to keep you entertained 112 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Aer Lingus cabin crew Lynsey Glasgow on her trip to Zambia to see UNICEF’s life-changing work


Glenn Close in Albert Nobbs


The view from Kerry

EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Editorial Consultant Laura George Editorial Assistant Cassie Delaney Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer, Suzie Coen, Carlynn McCarthy

Contributors John Butler is a fan of short-term sublets in large cities and he’s not entirely sure where he lives, apart from Seat 6a on various Aer Lingus flights. “As a writer, I’m unhealthily obsessed with the idea of city-ascharacter. My first novel is set in San Francisco, and I find the personality of Berlin even more complex and beguiling. My piece [see page 64] is a primer, but here’s a thought: if you’re looking to find a city, more often than not, the best thing to do is get lost.”

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy ADVERTISING Account Director Clodagh Edwards, 00 353 (0)1 271 9634 clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noelle O’Reilly, 00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan, 01 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Head of PR & Promotions Linda McEvitt 00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie Office Manager Tina Koumarianos Accounts Olga Gordeychuk BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone Director Ann Reihill Director Robert Power PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, 00 353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, 00 353 (0)1 271 9625; fax 01 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663

Julie Schwietert Collazo is a New York-based travel, culture, and food writer whose work has been featured in National Geographic Traveler, Budget Travel and Scientific American. She has also written for BBC/Lonely Planet and Fodor’s guide books. For her feature on weekending on Long Island for Cara, see page 56, she packed up her husband, photographer Francisco Collazo, and their 2.5 year-old-daughter for a road trip. “Most of my work tends to be far from home,” she says, “so it was nice to work closer for a change, and I discovered just as much of interest in Long Island as I do on my regular beat in Latin America.”

After a long stint as an editor with the Irish Independent, David Robbins left to embark on what he describes as a “portfolio career”. Nowadays, he writes a weekly column for the Independent, teaches journalism at Dublin City University and looks after his six-year-old daughter. As a former rugby player for Bective Rangers RFC and a Leinster fan of long-standing, interviewing rugby people for Cara’s feature on the Heineken Cup, see page 28, was a dream assignment. “I even got to run out of the tunnel at the Aviva Stadium,” he says.

© Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie Image Publications Ltd – PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOELLE O’REILLY ON 00 353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE


Jonny Sexton photographed by Trevor Hart at the Aviva Stadium. Make-up by Jane Gribbin.


 Friends HELIA NEMATOLLAHI left, NEMATOLLAHI, REMY and MERLE REMY, right, from Germany plan to spend three months au pairing in Ireland before continuing their travels.

Au pairs, backpackers, weekenders and long stay visitors, Cara magazine met them all at Dublin Airport’s T2. Photographs by Anthony Woods.  Student LINH NGUYEN from Barcelona has come to Ireland to study at UCD.

 CHARLIE ELLINGTON is in Dublin for a week to visit his girlfriend’s family. The couple met in Greece but currently live in France.

 Student FERENC FOLDESI arrives in Dublin for the fi first rst time. He plans to stay for the weekend before heading back to college in Berlin.

 Londoner SAM UNDERWOOD is making a quick stop in Dublin before heading to the Big Apple where he works as an actor.


 JOHANNA RIVIÉRE has flown in from Paris and is on her way to Cork to visit family and friends.


 MARK GRUNTGES, left, and CLESMAR LAYSER, right, are in Dublin for the first time for a guys’ weekend.


Thrillseeker JOE WYNN is in Dublin to rendezvous with his girlfriend before embarking on a snow boarding trip.

Growing the success of Irish food and horticulture

Plan your trip with

news DIAry


What’s happening – dates for your diary



All Humans Do, Sligo

Franco Irish Literary Festival, Dublin

Fresh from its New York showing, All Humans Do, a cutting-edge show of contemporary Irish artists, comes to The Model, in Sligo. For an update on the thriving Irish art scene – Rhona Byrne (see “It’s all up in the air”, left), Fergus Feehily and others – this is well worth a visit. Runs April 21 to June 28. themodel.ie.

Catch some of our biggest literary names at this cultural feast. Whether it’s Nobel prizewinner Seamus Heaney you want to hear, new generation novelists Belinda McKeon, Claire Keegan or Kevin Barry, or cross cultural debates with renowned French writers, it’s all here. For free! Runs April 20-22, Dublin Castle, Dublin 2; francoirishliteraryfestival.com


Dublin International Piano Competition A chance to hear some of the world’s best young pianists play as the 25th year of this highly regarded competition kicks off. The first two rounds are held in the RDS, with 60 talented performers whittled down to twelve semi-finalists. The grand finale is May 13, National Concert Hall. For details see rds.ie and nch.ie.


Cannes Film Festival, France If you’re not in the movie business, you can still soak up the atmosphere of the red carpet, the Promenade des Anglais, the A-listers and catch some of the glamour with nightly Cinema de la Plage screenings on the beach across from the Majestic. Pack a picnic. From May 16-27 See festivalcannes.fr for listings. Aer LIngus FlIeS FRoM DuBlIN To nICe DAIly, FRoM CoRK, Tue AND SAT, AND FRoM BelFAST, Tue, THuRS AND SAT.


rHs Chelsea Flower show, London


Festival of Fools, Belfast If you need a laugh, make a beeline for Belast in May where the Festival of Fools hits the streets with guaranteed thigh-slapping tomfoolery and play-acting. Street theatre performances (see Mooky Cornish, right) take place all over Belfast city centre and Cathedral quarter. Free to attend but donations welcomed. Runs May 3-7, around Belfast; foolsfestival.com

Whet your appetite for Bloom in the Phoenix Park, Dublin, with a visit to the Chelsea Flower Show, the place to bag inspiration and seedlings. Tickets from £16. Runs May 22-26, rhs.org.uk Aer LIngus FlIeS FRoM DuBlIN, CoRK, SHANNoN AND BelFAST To LonDon HeAtHrow DAILy

april/may 2012

| 7

neWs diary

A date with PhotogrAPh by ChristoPher heAney


Centenary commemorations of the sinking of the Titanic remember the dreams behind the tragedy, reports Victoria White.


he was the biggest, “instilled Presbyterianism” at the brightest liner ever to Protestant shipyard. But it wasn’t cut the ocean wave and there that the mistakes which she sank on her maiden caused the disaster were made. It voyage drowning 1,500 is clear that corporate greed was people. The story of the Titanic behind it. has all the qualities of myth. It The loss of three years of worldseems to tell so many stories, to class Belfast craftsmanship has herald the First World War, to been left out of the story until expose class divisions, to question now. But a new Titanic rises above the rampant capitalism that had Belfast in two great curves that launched it. echo the hull of the mighty ship. The ship was born in Belfast It is clad with 3,000 aluminium and her last port of call was panels, 2,000 of them unique, like Queenstown, now Cobh, in crystals on an iceberg. Co Cork. The centenary of the The iconic building houses Titanic disaster on April 15 this an audacious effort to recreate year offers an opportunity to the world of the Titanic. The revisit these stories that has been visitor will be able to face the enthusiastically grasped all over the massive gantry that was built for country. the construction of the Titanic In Belfast, the centenary is a and her sister ship, the Olympic. chance to rework a difficult chapter. Painstaking reconstructions of the “We were proud of this ship,” says ship’s interior, from the first-class Belfast journalist Susie Millar, cabins to the engine rooms to the whose great-grandfather worked at fabulous, sweeping staircase have Harland and Wolff and went down been made. with the ship. “There was a sense Perhaps the most interesting that our pride was being punished part of the Titanic Belfast in some way.” experience will be the Ocean Millar, who runs her own Exploration Centre, which will personalised Titanic tours use technology to explore beneath (titanictours-belfast.co.uk) says the the sea. It features live links with sense of shame was intensified by the exploration vessel used by Dr

Titanic achievement – the launch of the iconic Titanic Building in Belfast marks the start of countrywide commemorations of the loss of the liner.

Robin Ballard, who discovered the wreck of the Titanic, “her mighty stacks pointing upwards”, in 1985. The saddest connection we have with Titanic is that 78 Irish emigrants died, their chances of survival greatly reduced by travelling in steerage. The parish of Addergoole in Co Mayo has the doubtful honour of having lost eleven of its residents on the liner. New stained-glass windows will be dedicated to them in St Patrick’s Church, Lahardane, on April 15. One shows sisters Mary and Catherine Bourke refusing to leave husband and brother and get into a lifeboat, a scene that was remembered by survivor Annie Kate Kelly. After Mass, Taoiseach Enda Kenny will officially open the Mayo Memorial Titanic Park in Addergoole. The emigrants made their way to Cobh, a beautiful town tinged with the sadness of emigration, including the Titanic disaster. But the other half of Cobh’s story is its past greatness as one of the most important ports of the mighty British Empire, and a year-long events programme, Titanic 100, is set to bring back the town’s glory days.

3 top TiTanic places


titanic belfast makes a dramatic entrance. the history and stories of the boat and the city are explored theatrically at the venue with: Dan gordon’s The BoaT FacTory (April 2-5), Jimmy Mc Aleavey’s TiTans (April 8-11) and an outdoor spectacle from germany, TheaTer TiTanick (April 15). belfast‘s grand opera house hosts TiTanTic - The Musical, left, a unique re-enactment of the ship’s sinking. (April 10-14; goh.co.uk)




the parish of Addergoole, Co Mayo, was home to 11 of the 70 irish people who died on the Titanic. Fourteen set out from Addergoole but three survived. Mayo TiTanic culTural Week (April 8-15) includes the re-enactment of the emigrants’ journey to Castlebar and the tolling of the bell of st Patrick’s Church, Lahardane, exactly 100 years from the moment the iceberg struck the ship. (mayo-titanic.com)


Cobh, Co Cork, Titanic’s last port of call, is hosting special events all year, including an “escape from spike island” triathlon challenge in August and a titanic rowing Challenge, a charity fundraiser that runs over four days. TiTanic cenTenary Week runs from April 9 -15 and includes four Titanic-themed outdoor concerts, with artists including Riverdance composer bill Whelan. (titanic100.ie)

Barry John O’Connor, actor wears Brooks Brothers

news hotel


New York chic, a London restoration and Sicilian charm – hotels to book now. therasia resort, italY

Just north of Sicily, the tiny volcanic island of Vulcano is the southernmost of the Aeolian Islands. At a neat 21sq kilometres, the island is unspoiled and completely idyllic. Sitting right on the coast, the Therasia Resort, which reopens in May, boasts views of all the islands. In homage to its surroundings, only local materials have been used to restore the hotel – molten rock from Mount Etna, Sicilian terracotta and cedar and olive wood. The hotel itself is minimally decorated – each room is basic but comfortable and in the Mediterranean style with majolica or wrought-iron beds. But the highlight is two infinity pools with superb views of Sicily and plenty of loungers for guests to soak up the sun. Rooms from €221. Vulcano; 0039 098 525 55; therasiaresort.it. aer lingus FlIES FRoM DuBlIN To sicilY, WED AND SuN.

Mondrian soho, new York

The Mondrian Soho is as design-led as you’d expect – partly inspired by Jean Cocteau’s 1946 film La Belle et la Bête, and partly by the hotel’s chic urban surrounds. The result? A resting place with all the grandeur and eccentricities of romantic French design plus the joys of modern metropolitan life. Chef Sam Talbot’s Imperial No. 9 restaurant draws the smart crowd for cocktails and a plate of sustainable seafood, while the fact that the shopping is superb means this a great stay for guests on a weekend bargain spree. iPads await guests in every room, as do iPod docking stations and HD flatscreens. Rooms from $431. 9 Crosby Street, New York; 00 800 496 917 70; mondriansoho.com. aer lingus FlIES To new York FRoM DuBlIN DAIlY, FRoM BElFAST, TuES, THuRS AND SAT, AND FRoM SHANNoN, MoN, WED AND FRI.

lough erne resort, FerManagh

st Pancras renaissance, london

Perhaps it is its proximity to Platform 9R, but for whimsical high Victorian ambience (with a modern twist), it would be hard to find a better place to stay than the new five-star Marriott hotel at St Pancras. A £250 million, seven-year restoration programme has transformed Sir Gilbert Scott’s once-condemned neo-Gothic masterpiece into a luxury hotel. From the grand double staircase to the trendy Booking office bar where you can swig draft beers and Dickensian punches from pewter tankards, every last detail is picture perfect. Rooms in the chamber suites have triple-height ceilings and views through the back of the gigantic olympic logo out over the train platforms. And yet, they are somehow incredibly quiet. An ideal hub for anyone with children to visit at lSE or university of london, research to do at the British library or business in North london. Don’t miss the in-house Marcus Wareing brasserie either. Euston Road, london, 0044 207 841 3540; toll free 1 800 409 929; marriott.co.uk. aer lingus FlIES FRoM DuBlIN, SHANNoN, CoRk AND BElFAST To london heathrow DAIlY.

Part water, part grassy drumlin, this part of Fermanagh is more lake than land and lough Erne Resort takes full advantage of its watery surroundings with lakeside walks and two championship golf courses (World Number 1 golfer Rory McIlroy is lough Erne’s touring professional). The Resort itself is a modern-built, baronial style complex, with lodges on the grounds. But for all that, it’s a beautifully-designed spot, with deep carpets and soft sofas, blazing fires and comfortable armchairs. The sort of place to sprawl with the papers on a Sunday afternoon, enjoying the umpteen varieties of tea and cakes on offer. Rooms from £110 B&B for two sharing. Enniskillen, Fermanagh, 048 6632 3230; lougherneresort.com.

third season, the glamping hotspot is about Nomads will love the secluded haven of Teapot Lane in Co Leitrim. Now in its ngireland.ie to build its first treehouse. Can’t wait? Then, check out its glamorous yurts; glampi

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april/may 2012

News restAurANt

Food File

Fresh places to eat in Dublin, Galway, New York and London. eigHt BAr AND restAurANt, gALwAY

eight Bar and restaurant in Galway is steadily proving popular with both locals and outof-towners and come the summer, with the arrival of the Volvo ocean yacht race, this dockside spot will be teeming. From the outside the restaurant is unassuming – a chalk board and beer sign are the only indicators that inside some of the tastiest grub in the country is being served up. The interior is equally unfussy with an unsophisticated painted concrete floor and a mismatch of wooden furniture. The beauty of Bar eight (as it’s known to the locals) is its seasonal menu, much of which is organic, most of it local – and all of it at recession-friendly prices. Try the roast pumpkin stuffed with organic lentils and Bluebell Falls goats cheese (from ennis). Dock road, Galway City, 091 565 111; eight.ie.

isABeL’s wiNe BAr, DuBLiN

Bijou and perfectly formed, Ian Keegan’s intimate new wine bar Isabel’s on Baggot Street is tucked away in the former basement home of L’ecrivain. The simple pared-back design of exposed brick, old stone and wine crates means the focus is on the food and wine, which are excellent. owner of winesdirect.ie, Keegan offers an interesting selection of wines by the glass. When we visited, we found service haphazard but head chef Niall o’Sullivan’s confident cooking more than made up for it. my starter of vegetable salad with organic carrot, quinoa, harissa and carrot yoghurt, was delicious. We tucked into a main of pan-fried scallops with sweetcorn purée, black olive polenta and crispy double smoked bacon and proclaimed the dish very good indeed and headed off into the night happy and replete. 112 Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2, 01 661 9000; facebook.com/ isabelsdublin.


In deepest Soho, Koya specialises in the understated. A chalk board discloses dailychanging specials such as tofu dumplings in turnip broth and deep-fried wild garlic. Pale wooden tables and benches give an uncrowded elegance until the lunchtime and evening service bring noise and colour. This is, after all, still one of London’s most bohemian and eclectic quarters. The menu is unapologetically simple. Noodles: cold udon in hot broth; hot udon in hot broth. Favourite combos include mushroom and walnut miso, and heartier pork miso, all in deep, steaming ceramic bowls. There’s beauty in simplicity and Koya is winning admirers. But be warned, they don’t take bookings. 49 Frith Street, London, 0044 207 434 4463; koya.co.uk. Aer LiNgus FLIeS From DuBLIN, ShANNoN, CorK AND BeLFAST To LONDON HeAtHrOw DAILy.

JACK’s wiFe FreDA, New YOrK

Into the perpetually cool Soho neighborhood comes Jack’s Wife Freda, an exciting new watering hole from husband and wife team Dean and maya Jankelowitz. The couple met and worked under the tutelage of Keith mcNally in the renowned Balthazar. Now, their hospitable hangout serves culinary expertise alongside their winning personalities and the under-stated results have proved to be something of a hit. Don’t expect architectural food, this is low-key, kitchen supper stuff – like pasta with garlic and fresh chilli or the signature Jack’s burger with grilled tomato and fried onions. It’s the kind of dining that’s easy, to the point and wholly satisfying. When the sweltering New york summer starts, opt for the thirst-quenching cantaloup juice with crushed ice. 224 Lafayette Street, 001 212 510 8550; jackswifefreda.com. Aer LiNgus FLIeS From DuBLIN To New YOrK DAILy.

chef Derry Clarke with 60 easy-to-follow STAYING IN? Home cooks will love the new APPetiser app from multi-starred app store for a tasty €4.99. recipes from L’Ecrivain’s menu, rewritten with the home cook in mind. At the 12 |


news diary

Dining with a Difference

Inventive restaurateurs are putting value for money and fun back on the table in Dublin. Aoife O’Riordan picks out eateries creating a buzz.

PhotograPh by matthew thomPson

Maisha Lenehan of Bibi’s in Portabello, right, with Claire Geraghty, former shop assistant from the adjoining boutique, Dolls.


espite the doom and gloom of Ireland’s more straitened times, Dublin’s restaurateurs have been busy giving the capital’s dining scene a new lease of life, which is arguably more interesting than during the years of plenty. The defining characteristics of the eateries bucking the trend are good food, individuality and value for money. The fast-talking Joe Macken is currently one of the city’s most prolific restaurateurs, proving himself a master at capturing the zeitgeist. His pop up-to-permanent restaurant Crackbird (crackbird.joburger.ie) was an instant hit, serving a gourmet version of the fast-food favourite, fried chicken. The aptly named Skinflint (skinflint.joeburger.ie) in Temple Bar followed late last year, with its refined versions of grilled pizzas with toppings like pulled pork,

fennel and mascarpone cheese. Macken’s newest buzzworthy venture is Bear (bear.joeburger.ie), which he opened in partnership with Irish rugby star Jamie Heaslip. Less fashionable cuts of meat are championed in this quirky, sparsely decorated space with bare light fittings dangling above diners’ heads. Macken believes that before the crash, sky-high rents meant most would-be restaurateurs found it hard to realise their vision. This is echoed by John Farrell, proprietor of what is currently one of the city’s hottest new tables, 777 (777.ie). Farrell opened his first solo venture, Dillinger’s (dillingers.ie), in Ranelagh, in 2009 in a site vacated by a Michelin-starred restaurant. “I would never have been able to do that before the recession, it would have cost too much,” Farrell says. “There were lots of people working in other restaurants during the boom

3 of the best...


Best for authenticity an offshoot of the first Juniors café set up by brothers Paul and barry mcnerney around the corner, Paulie’s Pizza is always packed out. It serves authentic neapolitan-style pizzas, using slow, proved dough, DoP mozzarella and san marzano tomatoes – cooked in a wood-fired pizza oven. 58 Upper grand Canal street, Dublin 4, 01 664 3658; juniors.ie.

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Best for Buzz at 777, yellow fin tuna tostadas, taquitos, ceviche and braised beef short ribs are just a few of the sophisticated interpretations of mexican street food served up with style and accompanied by an explosive array of mexicaninspired cocktails. 7 Castle house, south great george’s street, Dublin 2, 01 425 4052; 777.ie.


times with ideas – myself included – who just could not afford to go out on their own,” he says. “These days restaurants are visually more interesting and people can afford to do different things.” Doing things differently is just what has breathed new life into L Mulligan Grocer (lmulligangrocer. com), a characterful old-style Dublin pub that has been in existence since the 1780s. It was about to go the same way as an increasing number of boarded-up public houses, until Australian-born Seaneen Sullivan and her two partners, Colin Hession and Michael Foggarty, reopened its doors in July 2010. Mulligan’s new proprietors kept all its olde worlde charm and complemented it with a carefully conceived menu and a vast range of craft beers and whiskies. “The three of us have travelled a good bit and wanted to own somewhere we would like to go, with good food and drink,” she says. With Mulligan’s doing a brisk trade most nights, the trio has just reopened another historic pub, J Kavanagh on Dorset Street. Ronan Ryan had a ringside seat during the height of the country’s spendathon, running several fashionable restaurants before it all came crashing down. “It’s the old case of necessity being the mother of invention,” he says of his new venture, Bite, a pop-up restaurant opening later this spring on South Frederick Street, with a bar and music late into the night. “It’s cheap and cheerful and the opposite of what we did before,” he says. So for diners at least, the lingering economic storm clouds have a palatable silver lining.

Best for Lunch getting a table can be tricky at Bibi’s, a tiny boutique-cum-café, owned by sisters Petria and maisha Lenehan, set in a redbrick house on a quiet street in Portobello. those who do can enjoy the likes of toasted ham and gubbeen cheese sandwiches and to-die-for peanut brownies. emorville avenue, Dublin 8, 01 454 7421; bibis.ie.

ChicShopping in the heart of Ireland’s

thoroughbred county


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Packing up for the family? Panic not. Check out our pick of the best child-friendly accessories to keep little ones busy. By Sive O’Brien. O’Brien








2 9

1 KID’S SUNGLASSES Carrera Junior, €48 at sunglasses-shop. co.uk 2 BEE SUITCASE Samsonite, €49 at babytravelshop.ie 3 THE TRAVEL BOOK Lonely Planet, €14.99 at Dubray Books, 36 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 4 IPAD COVERS iGuy by Speck, €39 at amazon.co.uk 5 DRINKING BOTTLES Lego, €10.99 at giftgenies.com 6 DIGITAL KIDIZOOM CAMERA Vtech, €62 at littlewoodsireland.ie 7 DEN KIT Real Adventure, €37.99 at thepresentfinder.co.uk 8 BINOCULARS Early Learning Centre, €10 at Mothercare.com 9 NOUGHTS & CROSSES GAME €4,50 at kiddaroo.co.uk 10 BACKPACK Skip Hop, €15.20 at cleverclogs.ie 11 PASSPORT COVER Yukari Sweeney, €12 at Debenhams, Henry Street, Dublin 1.

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IN EUROPE, MY FAVOURITE MUSIC FESTIVAL IS … The Aldeburgh Festival in England. Expect to enjoy great concerts in a classic British seaside town, made all the more special by the hypnotic sound of the sea and the beautiful rolling fenland. MY FAVOURITE US MUSIC FESTIVAL IS ... The Ojai Music Festival in northern California. It’s a haunting valley north of Los Angeles. It served as Shangri-La in Frank Capra’s film, Lost Horizon. Greta Garbo used to visit there a lot, so I’m in good company. FOR MUSIC AT HOME I LIKE TO GO TO … The Willie Clancy Summer School in Co Clare. It’s wonderful to hear and see passionate musicians in every pub who are addicted to their craft. WHEN I TRAVEL … I love to watch movies, read magazines or preferably snooze behind a comfy eye mask. I like to pretend to myself that I’m sleeping in my own bed. I LIKE TO HOLIDAY IN ... Venice. I even lived there for a winter season, amidst extreme flooding and snow storms. Nowadays, I usually stay with a friend on the Giudecca opposite the main island. One of the outer islands, Torcello, reminds me of the slob lands in the River Fergus in Clare where I grew up. I find that, often, there’s a


Gerald Barry

The composer talks to Suzie Coen about the places he is drawn to for music and travel. Clare-born Gerald Barry, one of the most innovative of contemporary composers, has an impressive roll-call of creations in a career spanning three decades. Firmly established on the world circuit, his music has been performed by orchestras ranging from the Los Angeles Philharmonic to Ireland’s RTE NSO and the New World Symphony in Miami to the Kirov in St Petersburg. And his operas have been staged in Paris, Amsterdam, London, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Dublin and Berlin. Barry’s current focus is the European première of his fifth opera, The Importance of Being Earnest, which will be performed at the Barbican Hall in London on April 26 and at the Symphony Hall in Birmingham on April 28. Then it’s on to a new piano concerto for the Musica Viva Festival in Munich in 2013, and a new production of his opera, The Triumph of Beauty and Deceit, in Karlsruhe, Germany, in 2013, as part of its renowned Handel Festival. What better man, then, to share his favourite places at home and abroad.



Le Printemps de Bourges Paris – April 24-29 Each spring, thousands flock to Bourges to Europe’s most eclectic music festival. Set over five days, more than 200 artists perform on 13 stages throughout the city. Check out the velvety sounds of Grey’s Anatomy favourite, Charlie Winston, left, on April 26 at Le Phénix. Tickets from €32; Le Phénix, Rives de l’Auron, Bourges; printemps-bourges.com

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West Cork Chamber Festival Bantry House, Cork – June 29 to July 7 Pin back your ears for nine days of music, with over a hundred concerts including Aaron Copland’s song-cycle, 12 Poems of Emily Dickinson, Fauré’s Piano Quartet in C minor, Schubert’s Death and the Maiden and Mozart’s quintet for piano and winds. Contact 027 52788; westcorkmusic.ie


dark mood in Venice, but it fits into the dream state I’m in when I’m there. WHEN IN EUROPE I LIKE TO STOP IN ... Paris. A friend of mine has a room in the Rue Forge Royale near the Bastille so I sometimes go there. You should only have friends who have places! MY FAVOURITE AIRPORT IS … Key West, Florida. It’s like Casablanca and Sunset Boulevard in one – “Time for my close-up” Gloria Swanson territory. Everything thrills me there – from the dusty streets and the heat and the cool bars to the fact that Tennessee Williams lived there. IN THE US, I LOVE ... Los Angeles. I’ve had two operas performed there and always stay in West Hollywood, a neighbourhood I love. LA is a place where many of the leading European artists fled to during World War Two: people like Stravinsky, Thomas Mann and others. My great friend, Betty Freeman, lived there. She’s the Beverly Hills Housewife in David Hockney’s painting of that name. MY FAVOURITE PLACE IN IRELAND … I love where I live in Dublin. It’s on Arbour Hill, which is handy for everywhere – I’m five minutes by bicycle from O’Connell Bridge. I also have a house in Fanore across from the Aran Islands in Clare and go there quite a bit. Time expands there. You can be there for one night and it seems like three – in a good way!

Dublin City Soul Festival Merrion Square – May 24-27 The folks behind this city festival know the way to our hearts. This lowkey annual fest is where good music meets good food and is a wonderfully mellow family day out. International stars and national treasures provide entertainment while you picnic from foodie vans stuffed with gourmet takeaways. dublincitysoulfestival.ie



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What’s in my suitcase

Dearbhla Walsh

To say that director Dearbhla Walsh is a frequent flier is an understatement. Based in Dublin, the Sligo-born director’s work takes her all over Britain, Europe and North America. Her list of credits include critically acclaimed TV dramas such as Channel 4’s Shameless and BBC’s Public Enemies and the BBC’s mini-series Little Dorrit (for which she received an Emmy). This month, she’s packing her streamlined suitcase to head off to Prague and Rome to shoot the second series of the European production of Borgia. All that commuting hasn’t dimmed her love of travel. She is planning an eco safari in Kenya this year, followed by a week in Zanzibar, while any spare time in Ireland will be spent with friends in her much-loved mobile home in Brittas, Co Wicklow. Suzie Coen

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Easter Story Telling, London April 8 Kew Gardens is a magical spot at the best of times, but this Easter, a small Chinese folly, aptly named The Temple of Imagination, above, is the unusual setting for a group of storytellers. Easter Sunday sees a host of local story spinners share tales of everything from the history of chocolate to old Mayan myths. The drop-in groups are free to all park visitors. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey; kew.org Handel’s Messiah London, April 6 The Royal Choral Society’s performance of Handel’s Messiah has been an integral part of the UK’s choral tradition for over a century. Now in its 134th year, the performance is conducted by Richard Cooke and features soprano Mary Bevan and mezzo soprano Wendy Dawn Thompson. Expect the roof to be raised. Tickets from £13. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, London, 0044 207 589 82 12; royalchoralsociety.co.uk 1916 Rising walking tour, Dublin If you feel like taking a walk on the rebellious side, the 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour is the choice for you. History mixes with humour in this passionate and mentally nourishing tour of the fair city all hosted by award-winning tour guide and author, Lorcan Collins. Expect blood, sweat and tears of laughter. Tickets €12. Tours start at The International Bar on Wicklow Street, Dublin at 11.30am, Monday to Saturday, and 1pm on Sundays; 086 858 3847; 1916rising.com Easter Event Rome, April 6 Just outside Rome in the region of Abruzzo, the small town of Chieti is home to Italy’s oldest Good Friday procession. Local men and children dressed in the colours of the parish, complete the Stations of the Cross. The torch-lit procession is accompanied by a choir. The highlight is a rendition of Miserere performed by some 150 violinists; italy-tourism.info.







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Where to eat, sleep and do business in New York and Brussels? Lisa Hughes reports.




The Irish-based director of Architecture Republic travels to New York every three weeks, where the company has just finished designing Orla Kiely’s first flagship store in SoHo. Best memory … Arriving in Manhattan in the early morning, during what photographers call the ‘golden hour’ and the whole city skyline is wrapped in a magical gown of orange, red, purple and yellow. Best spot for business meetings … Bryant Park (bryantpark.org), behind the New York Public Library. Very easy to find and it has a great cafe, restaurant, a library and a fabulous park all in one. Business lunches … Balthazar on Spring Street (balthazarny.com) for traditional bistro, Cafe Gitane, Mott Street (cafegitanenyc.com) for superb coffee and the Grand Central Oyster Bar, Grand Central Station, 42nd Street (oysterbarny.com). Business drinks … Take your client for a stroll on

the High Line Park, before crossing through the hotel and having drinks at The Standard (848 Washington Street, Greenwich Village, NY 10014; standardhotels. com). The Mercer (147 Mercer Street, SoHo, NY 10012; mercerhotel.com) or King Cole Bar & Lounge (St Regis Hotel, 2 East 55th Street; stregisnewyork. com) are also good bars for getting down to business. Best hotels … Accommodation tends to be expensive in New York but affordable hotels include the Soho Grand Hotel (310 West Broadway; sohogrand.com) and Hotel on Rivington (107 Rivington Street; hotelonrivington.com). Getting around … Buy an unlimited weekly ticket and use public transport – you can even get to the airport with it. If you

want to see more of the city, hire a bike or a scooter – preferably a Vespa for a bit of La Dolce Vita! (or bikerentalcentralpark.com) Doing business in NYC for the first time … New York is a shopper’s paradise but don’t overload yourself by buying things – unless you have to make it up to your partner! Budget business travel tip … Buy a temporary mobile number if you will be making a lot of local phone calls. There are plenty of wireless connections throughout town so combine work and pleasure and do your work in the city. Always … Stay somewhere new each time you visit and you’ll get to know New York much quicker. Finally, be friendly, put on a great smile and a lot of doors will open to you.

MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GADGET LG OPTIMUS 3D SMARTPHONE Make your own 3D movies on your travels and play them back with the LG Optimus 3D Smartphone. Compact and business-like, the Optimus 3D is partnered with YouTube 3D, so you can share your films straight from your handset to the site. £449.95 at carphonewarehouse.com. 22 |



HILTON BRUSSELS Just five minutes’ walk from the World Trade Centre, the Hilton Brussels offers four sunlit meeting rooms, has wifi throughout and offers two business centres with everything from photocopiers to a courier service. (Place Rogier 20, 0032 2203 3125, hilton.co.uk/brusselscity) ALOFT BRUSSELS SHUMAN In the heart of the European quarter, Aloft Shuman is across the street from the Council and a five-minute walk from Parliament, making it the top choice for doing business in the EU. The hotel mixes work and play by having DJs, happy hours and signature cocktails at its trendy W xyz bar. (Place Jean Rey, 0032 2800 0888, aloftbrussels.com) BEMANOS Frequently voted the trendiest hotel in Brussels , BeManos is only a ten-minute walk from the Gare Midi station (the hotel offers a free shuttle bus back and forth) and manages to combine arty design with home comforts. (23 Square de l’aviation, 0032 2520 6565, bemanos.com) GRESHAM BELSON HOTEL Comes recommended as somewhere affordable and close to the airport. Just a few minutes away from the NATO headquarters, the hotel offers complimentary transport to and from the airport and to the nearby business parks. (Hotel Brussels, Avenue des Anciens Combattants - Oudstrijderslaan 1, 0032 2708 3100, gresham-hotels-brussels.com) PROGRESS HOTEL This four-star hotel, below, is close to business and financial districts and offers a modern business centre where guests can hold meetings or conferences. (9 Rue du Progress, 0032 2205 17 00, progresshotel.be)



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Beauty on the go

As summer appears on the horizon, it’s time to shed the heavy layers – and that includes your foundation. Liz Dwyer takes a look at the BB cream phenomenon.

LIGHTEN UP Since they hit Europe last year, BB creams have already earned cult status with busy beauties. Short for blemish balm or beauty balms, they’re a unique cocktail of smart foundation pigments, skin optics, moisturiser, primer and sun protection in one. Slather on without any skill and skin still appears fresh, glowing and radiant – as if at the end of a two-week holiday. Yet BBs are virtually texture-less and blur over imperfections and lines in their tracks. Better still, they’re packed with SPF, hydrating and skinboosting ingredients, and almost eclipse the need for moisturiser and foundation altogether. Three of our favourites include:



Garnier Miracle Skin Perfector Daily All-in-One B.B. Cream, €14.99, gives skin a golden glow and intensely hydrates with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and stimulating caffeine.

L’Oréal, Nude Magique BB Cream, €14.99, goes on like a white cream but adapts to mirror your natural colouring and gives sheer, fresh, radiant coverage. Provides SPF 12 and oodles of hydration.

What’s the one constant in your travel toiletries? “I always have Eve Lom cleanser in there. It’s a cleanser, toner, eye make-up remover and mild exfoliant all in one. And I pack retexturising pads, which are pre-soaked in a mild glycolic peel formula, to keep my skin clear.”


Clinique Age Defense BB Cream SPF 30, €32, this perfecting cream helps balance skin and provides oil and shine control while imparting medium to full skin coverage to blur imperfections without being too heavy.

Indulge in some pampering and preening time at The Tranquillity Hair and at Nail Salon, the latest addition to the White Horse’s Spa in the five star Lodge ... Doonbeg, Co Clare; doonbeglodge.com. Well, if it’s good enough for the Corrs

BEAUTY’S BEST FRIEND If BB creams are too sheer for your liking, many bestselling foundation brands have launched lighter foundations that still deliver on coverage by using invisible pigments.


Estée Lauder Invisible Fluid Makeup, €34.50, a weightless, air-infused base that lets skin breathe and works with your natural undertones for a perfect colour match.

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MAC Matchmaster Foundation SPF 15, €40, uses translucent pigments and line-reducing soft focus to create a natural finish influenced by your own skin tone. Can be easily layered for heavier coverage.


MY BEAUTY MUSTS Nicky Kinnaird, the founder of Space NK, lives half her life in the air and claims to “have mastered the travel thing”. She shares her in-transit beauty tricks and tips.


Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24 hour, €35, the cult Teint Idole base has been upgraded to a comfy, long-wear formula that doesn’t sacrifice glow. New pigment technology means a lighter finish and better colour match too.

Top tip for space saving? “I normally take sample sachets of shampoo and conditioner instead of bottles. Also the mini size Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray is great for travel, after the gym, or if you don’t have a lot of time, and it helps extend the life of a blow-dry by about four days.” If you could only bring one product? “By Terry Touche Veloutee, it’s a multiperfection concealer, and Japanese wash cloths – you can use them on the face or as a dry body brush before you get into the shower and then with any shower gel it becomes a great body scrub, resulting in the softest skin possible. They are also dirt cheap at around €4.” Your pre-beach holiday regime? “I get my fake tan on with Hampton Sun Sunless Tanning Gel. What I love about this bronzing gel is that it’s klutz-proof, streak-free and imparts a believable honey glow rather than looking like you’ve just come back from the Caribbean, plus it doesn’t take a lot of time to do.” Your skin heroes right now? “I do a lot of outdoor exercise and need a good SPF so that I don’t turn into one big freckle, so I use NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention SPF 30, then put By Terry Hyaluronic Face Glow over that – it’s like an alternative to foundation and a skin cream in one and gives the illusion of perfectly bare skin.”


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Shelf LIFE

A long-awaited sequel and books to travel with; Bridget Hourican previews new titles. Bring up the Bodies by Hilary Mantel (Fourth Estate, £20) out May 10. This sequel to the Man Booker-winning Wolf Hall covers just a few months in Tudor England – the devastating period of Anne Boleyn’s destruction. Thomas Cromwell, chief minister to Henry VIII, is once again the shrewd observer who watches the king rage against his lack of male heir and fall in love with the silent, plain Jane Seymour, opposite in every way to the vivacious Anne, around whom the net tightens … Its publication in May coincides with the anniversary month of Boleyn’s beheading in Tower Hill in 1536. The Apartment by Greg Baxter (Penguin Ireland, £12.99) out April 5. A nameless American, ex-naval, ex-contract worker in Iraq, washes up alone in an unnamed Eastern European city. Over the course of a snowy

winter’s day he seeks, and finds, an apartment with the help of a local girl he has known just a few weeks. This terse and subtle tour-de-force segues, without chapters, from the present of these two people tracking the city to their troubled pasts. Highly anticipated first novel and follow-up to Baxter’s acclaimed Dublin-based memoir, A Preparation for Death. Just Send Me Word: A True Story of Love and Survival in the Gulag by Orlando Figes (Penguin, Allen Lane, £20) out May 31. Lev and Svetlana Mishchenko met as students in the 1930s, only to be separated by the war of 1941-45, and Lev’s subsequent imprisonment in the Gulag. From 1946 to 1954 they wrote to each other twice a week. Extraordinarily, they managed to smuggle their uncensored letters in and out of the Gulag. It is a remarkable testimony to love and “possibly the only major realtime record of daily life in the Gulag that will ever come to light”. Leading

Russian historian Orlando Figes uses the letters, KGB archives and recent interviews to tell a story as gripping as a novel. ARMCHAIR TRAVEL READ Running with the Kenyans by Adharanand Finn (Faber, £14.99) out April 5. In January 2011, Adharanand Finn, freelance journalist, packed his wife, three children, and running shoes and left Devon for Iten, a small town off the Rift Valley in Kenya. His purpose? To “discover the secrets of the fastest people on earth”. A sports journalist – and former junior cross-country runner – he wants to know how Kenyans manage to win all the big races effortlessly, from city marathons to the Olympics. He blogged his six-month stay in Iten – running and training with top athletes and going on safari to wind down – on the Guardian website. One for sports and travel aficionados.

Who’s reading what …

Irish author Kevin Barry on what is keeping him entertained.

What are you reading? “Zona by Geoff Dyer, a frame-by-frame reconstruction of Tarkovsky’s legendary (and some would say legendarily dreary) film Stalker from the late 1970s. It’s a measure of Dyer’s talent as an essayist

that he makes of this unpromising material a funny, captivating and very smart book. He’s an unclassifiable unclassifiable writer and his stuff is never without interest.” Where are you reading it? “I’m in Malaga city. I take my summer holidays very, very early, as the heat of true summer in Spain would have me in the back of an ambulance. Malaga is a very nice 18 °C around now and, weirdly, it’s a kind of hidden gem. Countless thousands fly into its airport

every day but they head straight for the resorts of the Costa del Sol. They’re missing a buzzy, cool, forward-looking but yet very mellow city. And it has the best fried fish in creation.” Favourite place to visit? “I live in south Co Sligo, which means that I can very easily zoom out on cycling trips to the wild reaches of Mayo and Galway. I love the western seaboard and will never tire of pedalling through its endless drizzle and skinning winds.” Best book to take on a flight?

“I’m evangelical on behalf of the great English short story writer, VS Pritchett. His star has dimmed a little since his death in 1997 but I think he’s a true great of the form. His Collected Stories contains work that’s mad, tender, hilarious, tense and heartbreaking, and often all at once. Mind you, it is a bit of a doorstopper to be lugging onto a plane.” Kevin Barry’s story collection, Dark Lies the Island (Cape, £12.99), is out April 24. His novel, City of Bohane, is now out in paperback.

er Kathleen MacMahon, made headlines This Is How It Ends (Little, Brown) hits the shelves on May 24. Its author, RTE produc e. The premise? Melancholic Dublin girl when her debut novel bucked the recession trend and scooped a £600,000 advanc John McCain wins the presidential election ... meets ex-Lehman Brothers banker, who has sworn not to return to the States if 26 |






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It’s a



As Heineken Cup rugby reaches its climax, David Robbins examines its unique appeal – and talks to some of the key players. Photographs by Trevor Hart.

raditionally it was around making it the Six Nations Championship.) this time of the year that Unfortunately (at least for those of rugby players put away the us whose sanity and marital harmony boots and the wintergreen, depended on such things), Ireland were and fans hung up their not very good at the Five or, indeed, the scarves. Another season, Six Nations Championship. Only twice with all its pain and glory, have Ireland won all their matches (known had come to an end. Perhaps as a Grand Slam), compared to England’s there was silverware to show for all that twelve, Wales’s ten, France’s nine and effort, or maybe just memories – and Scotland’s three. Then, the stars aligned, bruises. But, in recent years, the season has various forces combined and Irish rugby not faded with the end of the Six Nations was given a new stage on which to display Championship in March. These days, its abilities. In 1995, the game went April means the knockout stages of the “open” (ie, professional) and the four Irish Heineken Cup; May brings the semi-finals provinces (Munster, Leinster, Ulster and and final. There’s life in the old season yet. Connacht) became professional teams. In “It used to be that when the Six Nations the same year, the European Rugby Cup finished, the season was winding down. was established, providing a competition Now, it’s almost just ramping up for (the Heineken Cup) for the best club what is a fantastic end to a season,” says sides in Europe to contest. It was not an David Humphreys, director of rugby at immediate success, but like a plane that trundles along and then suddenly takes off, Irish province Ulster (and former Ireland international out-half). For over a century, it is now regarded by many as the premier club competition in the world. the pinnacle of the sport in Europe has That first tournament was won been the Five Nations Championship, an by Toulouse, the aristocrats of the intense, nerve-shredding competition competition. They have won the Heineken between the Irish, French, Scots, English Cup four times, a record likely to stand and Welsh. (The Italians joined in 2000, 28 |


for some time. But the Irish took to the Heineken Cup in style. Ulster won in 1999 on an unforgettable day in Lansdowne Road (David Humphreys dropped a goal), and then Munster took up the gauntlet. Munster’s exploits in the Heineken Cup have become the stuff of legend. They have won twice and been losing finalists twice, but their pool stage games have provided some of the sport’s most enduring memories. The men in red specialised in getting themselves into impossible situations, and then getting out of them. Typical was their 2003 match against Gloucester. They needed to win by 27 points and score four tries against the top team in England at the time. The last kick of the game secured the win – by 27 points and four tries, of course. It is now known to rugby fans everywhere as “the Miracle Match”. In recent years, the Irish baton has been taken up by Leinster, holders of the cup and winners in 2009. They had their own “Miracle Match” in the 2006 competition when they beat Toulouse 35-41 in Toulouse’s Stadium Municipal at the quarter-final stage. Overall, Ireland

The player – Jonathan Sexton It’s no wonder that Jonny Sexton loves the Heineken Cup. At just 26, he already has two winner’s medals and has become a kind of cup legend. In 2009, he came on as a substitute in the semi-final between Leinster and their old rivals Munster. The match was played in Dublin’s Croke Park and was attended by more than 80,000 people. No one who was there will ever forget it. “To kick at goal with my first touch of the ball in front of 80,000 people was a pretty tough thing to do,” he recalls. “Your career can go one of two ways with a moment like that. Luckily the ball went over, and we won the match and got to the final and won that too.” As if that wasn’t enough, the Leinster and Ireland out-half scored 28 of Leinster’s 33 points in their famous win over Northampton in last year’s final. “Last year was an amazing campaign,” says Sexton. “The group

that we were in, we had a new coach and we felt we were up against it from the start. To get out of that pool was like gold. And then when we got out, we had a tough quarter-final, semi-final and final draw, so to win it like that was definitely really special.” The appeal of the competition for Sexton is playing on a big stage. “It’s such a big competition,” he says. “We know that we have to be on top of our game to get a win. Often in a league situation, you might have in the back of your mind that if you lose a game, then you can make up for it. But if you lose a game in the HC, then you’re struggling straight away. The group stage is almost like a knockout stage in a way.” The atmosphere in the Leinster camp ratchets up a notch in the week of a Heineken Cup match, he says. “It’s a tense place to be, but it’s great to be a part of it.”


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have provided the Heineken Cup’s biggest attendances (average of over 20,000 last year). And this season, for the first time, all four provinces qualified for the competition, with three competing in the knockout stages over the coming weeks. Former Ireland international Derek McGrath, who is chief executive of the company that runs the Heineken Cup (ERC Ltd), smiles now at the rather shaky early days when club rows and negotiations over television rights were hot and heavy. “I took the role [in 2000] at a time when the English clubs had been out of the competition the previous year, when there were always questions as to whether the competitions would survive,” he says. He identifies the 2001 final as a turning point. “It was between Stade Français and Leicester. There was a magnificent try to win the game for Leicester as the away team. That, more than anything, confirmed that this Heineken Cup was special and could produce special occasions and that, yeah, we’re on the right track.” Fans from every country will have their own memories. Some 60 clubs have played in the competition at 98 venues in nine countries, and attendance at the pool stages of the 2012 event was close to a million people. Staging a big Heineken Cup match brings in about €10 million to the local economy – and not all of it is spent on alcohol. The competitions (the ERC also runs the Amlin Challenge Cup) had a record turnover of €50 million last year, and are planning a weekend rugby extravaganza in London on the weekend of May 18-19, when the finals of both competitions will take place. Ireland will host next year’s Heineken Cup final at the Aviva Stadium and the city is also likely to host the Amlin final too. As rugby fans get set for another dramatic finale to the season – with the prospect of one (or even two) Irish teams in the final – players and fans alike agree that the Heineken Cup is no small beer. For more information, see ercrugby.com.

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april/may 2012

The fan – Una Downey Una Downey, 39, remembers going to her first Munster match (a pool game against Saracens in 2000 which Munster won 31-30) as if it were yesterday. “Then my first away match was the semi-final against Toulouse in Bordeaux that year. It was the kind of match where you’d nearly sell a kidney for a ticket. It was very special. We even flew home with the team,” she says. Downey, who works as a researcher at the Innovation Value Institute, NUI Maynooth, and lives in Drumcondra on Dublin’s northside, has two special claims to Munster fame. She

was one of the original 500 supporters’ club members in 2000 (“It cost IR£50 [€63.49] for two years and you got two tickets to every match”) and she is probably the only fan to have had a fireplace removed for her team. “One year, I’d got tickets for a Heineken Cup quarter or semi-final and put them on my mantelpiece at home,” she recalls. “They slipped down the back of it, behind the wall. I had to ring the builders and have it taken out. You should have seen their faces – they’d only just finished putting it in.”

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The boss – Derek McGrath Derek McGrath took a roundabout route to his current job as CEO of the company that runs the Heineken Cup. Rugby fans will remember him as a rangy wing-forward who won five caps for Ireland in the 1980s. Then he worked for a veterinary pharmaceutical company before joining ERC Ltd. “Back then [in 2000] we would have had a staff of four or five. Now, it’s developed to the stage where we run two competitions, the HC and the Amlin Challenge Cup, we had a record turnover last year of €50 million and we have a staff of 15 here in Dublin,” says 51-year-old McGrath. The Heineken Cup was not a guaranteed success – there were rows with the club owners in England and in France. But “from about 20072008, the tournament began to gain pace and we had some of the great days”, he says. “I think of the days when Biarritz started playing

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matches in San Sebastian and creating some great occasions, or some great days with Stade Français. It really began to come to life.” When asked about the quintessential Heineken Cup team, McGrath doesn’t hesitate: “Munster. I think you have to look at Munster and what they have set as a benchmark. Munster, Toulouse, Leicester – they’re similar. They’re not big city teams. They’ve been able to develop a close proximity to the fans and together build a very close association that gives them an extra strength and builds a sense of ‘us against the world’.” McGrath, who will be travelling to as many of the matches in the knockout stages as possible, sums up the Heineken Cup nicely: “At every level, whether you’re a fan, a player, a coach or a club, there is a return on your investment and it’s a fantastic experience to be involved with.”


The ref – George Clancy Like many of the game’s best referees, George Clancy, 35, was a player before he took up the ref’s whistle. He learned the game at St Munchin’s College in Limerick city and then played at out-half for the Bruff club, which also produced the Munster legend, John “The Bull” Hayes. He served his refereeing apprenticeship at under-age, schools and club games before being given his first match between professional teams in 2004. “It was in Galashiels (a town on the Scottish Borders) between Borders and Dragons. I suppose they sent me there because if you made a mistake, it wouldn’t be noticed. When you start off, everything is new to you – what flight to get, where to stay, the

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april/may 2012

grounds, the players,” says Clancy of his early days. “The biggest change for me is in dealing with the players – they accept you more the more games you ref and there’s greater respect.” Now he is a regular on the international scene, and refereed the opening match of the 2011 Rugby World Cup. The pitch is his workplace. “I like to keep it as formal as possible with the players,” he says, adding that he tries not to get caught up in the occasion or the passion of the moment. “It’s funny, but it happens a lot in refereeing that you only appreciate the game afterwards. When it’s going on, you’re concentrating so hard; you can’t take your eye off the ball for a second. If you do, you’re in trouble.”


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“We are totally passionate about Irish song and dance” says owner and band member Donal Cawley, “we always engage with our audience and every night is a little bit different because we don’t work to a pre-scripted show. It’s relaxed and, above all, entertaining”. The pub is also a proud member of Good Food Ireland, supporting local and artisan food producers, similar to the artisan nature of the pub owners. This terrific two hour show runs nightly from March to November and on other nights subject to bookings. The show features fast paced song, music and Irish dancing and is preceded by an excellent four course meal.

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The manager – David Humphreys David Humphreys was a key player in the Ulster team that won the Heineken Cup in 1999, dropping a goal in the course of Ulster’s 21-6 win over Colomiers. Now director of rugby at Ulster, and in charge of off-field activities, Humphreys, 40, reckons that win was a little premature for the Irish province. “We were a team that shouldn’t have won the cup. We didn’t compare with a lot of the opposition we played against. But it was one of those things that occasionally happens in sport – we got a lot of luck and everything went in our favour. For me, that will always be the highlight of my playing career,” he recalls. “In some ways, people might say, looking back, that it happened too soon for us, because it almost meant that,

instead of trying to build on that, we felt we had achieved enough. So we had nine or ten years when we didn’t qualify. That’s a bad outcome from what was a wonderful occasion.” This season, Ulster have qualified for the knockout stages of the Cup and are facing Irish rivals Munster at their fortress in Thomond Park. “It’s the acid test for us,” says Humphreys. “You’ve got to go to the hardest places and win.” Ulster have turned their Ravenhill ground into something of a fortress too. “Friday nights in the Heineken Cup in Ravenhill have been a big part of it,” he says. “A lot of big teams have come there – it’s a wonderful place to play.”


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The girlfriend – Mary Scott there. On match day, we’ll all be in the Leinster box at the Aviva Stadium and then afterwards there’s another room for the team and partners. Then we might go back to someone’s house and see how it goes from there. They warn people about going out with me because it can turn into a late one!” She does not come from a rugby family but she’s learned on the job. “I come from a family of girls and we knew nothing about the game,” she says. “My dad bought Rugby for Dummies and he’s now an authority. Now I’m like ‘who are you and what have you done to my real dad?’” Watching Toner on the pitch takes some getting used to, she says. “I can’t stand watching Dev play. Against Racing Metro, I was watching Sebastien Chabal tearing up the pitch and he milled straight into Dev. And sometimes when they’re lifting him in the lineout, it’s like they lift him up and throw him away! I’m like: ‘Put him back down carefully; I need him’.”

Photographed by Trevor Hart, assisted by Sylvie Cordenner. Make-up by Christine Lucignano for Chanel, and Jane Gribbin. Our thanks to Claire Seale at the Aviva Stadium and Mark Jones at ERC.

Mary Scott, 24, grew up down the road from her boyfriend, Devin Toner, near Batterstown, Dunboyne, Co Meath, but they did not meet until they were at university. “He came along to my sister’s birthday party and when he walked in, I was quite the smitten kitten! We’ve been together for five years and living together for two,” says Mary, who works for radio station 98FM and runs a bakery business at cakechick.ie. Toner, the Leinster second-row player, is hard to miss. At 2.08m (6’ 10”), he’s one of the tallest players in world rugby. But, according to his girlfriend, “He’s the most relaxed guy in the world, even coming up to a big match. “I go to all the home games and some of the away ones with a couple of the other girls,” says Scott, who lives in Sandymount, just down the road from the Aviva Stadium. “At the home matches, there’s an absolute gang of us. Leinster have made a huge effort to make us all feel part of it. There’s even a family room for kids

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A Close

l l a C

She is best known for playing strong, scheming women (remember Fatal Attraction?). Perhaps that’s why, in her latest movie, Glenn Close cast herself as a woman posing as a man in Victorian Dublin. She tells Tony Clayton-Lea about her friend Meryl Streep, movies and the making of the Oscar-nominated Albert Nobbs.


here is no doubting that Glenn Close is Hollywood royalty. Along with her good friend Meryl Streep, she holds an enviable number of award nominations for this movie, that stage play and something else on television. Close has said she and Streep often get mistaken for each other – “although never on Oscar night”. But the fact that Close was short-listed for best actress at this year’s Academy Awards for her portrayal of the titular character of the movie, Albert Nobbs – wherein a woman disguises herself as a man in order to blend into maledominated, Victorian society – was good enough for her to feel validated as a performer. As we know, Streep

scooped the Oscar – for a third time. “The thing is, I love what I do and the craft of it,” says 64-yearold Close, who is talking to Cara magazine two weeks before the Academy Awards ceremony. She is in Dublin to present Albert Nobbs to a packed cinema as part of the lineup for the Jameson Dublin Irish Film Festival and, as the city-centre hotel The Merrion is effectively Film Festival Central, it is here we meet up. She is, inevitably, the centre of attention (autograph hunters wait patiently outside the hotel, ready to pounce as she makes her way in and out), but it’s clear that, while polite and attentive to her public, she has no truck with the nonsense that is celebrity-hood. “The way I look at it,” she says, “is that there are several hundred thousand actors in our unions, and

90 per cent are usually out of work. How many movies are made each year? In the Oscar nominations you’re one of five up for it, so who can be a loser out of that? I honestly believe that no one is a loser in that sense, but I’m aware that the world likes to have winners and losers. I understand the entertainment value in that, of course, but as it applies to my craft it kind of doesn’t make sense.” Nonetheless – Oscar win or not – Albert Nobbs has been rightly recognised and rewarded for its quality. With a clever, ambiguous tagline of “A man with a secret. A woman with a dream”, the film charts the brief course of middleaged, hard-working waiter Albert Nobbs (played with accomplished serenity by Close), who wishes above all else to strike out independently as a shop owner and, in the course APRIL/MAY 2012

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of doing so, to discover love and forge family ties. The film is based on the short story, The Singular Life of Albert Nobbs, by Irish writer George Moore. Close is no stranger to the character, having performed the role on an off-Broadway stage in 1982 (for which she won a prestigious Obie award). It’s a safe bet to say that getting the movie made has been, if not something of an obsession for her, then certainly a cause. “I was just fascinated by the story,” she begins. “For me, the character of Albert Nobbs is intriguing and highly sympathetic – she has very interesting psychology in that she is more complex than even she herself thinks. I’m drawn, actually, to characters that dream against the odds and have no self-pity – that’s a compelling combination. Added to all of this is Albert’s naïveté, which was not necessarily of the era, but you have to note that Nobbs went underground due to a major trauma, and that trauma locks you up to a large degree. She seems fine just surviving. I found it very believable because in a world where she has no name, no family, no means of making money, she is surviving and doing pretty well.”

I contact John Banville. I have to admit that I had never heard of him at the time – he just wasn’t on my radar …” Banville, says Close, brought a great sense of language to the finished/revised screenplay. “It was such a long process that I can’t recall whether there are certain scenes that John had written that have stayed in the movie, but his huge, ongoing and wonderful collaboration was the language. Even when we were shooting the movie in Dublin in the winter of 2010, he’d be there virtually every day on call to

The waiting game – Glenn Close plays Albert Nobbs, a waiter in Victorian Dublin, in the Oscar-nominated film of the same name, alongside Brendan Gleeson, aka Dr Holloran, and a raft of Irish actors including Antonia CampbellHughes, Maria Doyle-Kennedy and Jonathan Rhys Meyers.

“In the Oscar nominations you’re one of five up for it, so who can be a loser out of that? ... But I’m aware that the world likes to have winners and losers.” As well as co-producing the film, Close co-wrote it with the help of acclaimed Irish novelist John Banville. He was, Close admits, brought on board to localise (or, perhaps, colloquialise) the film. “I had a first version of the script completed by Gabriella Prekop, about twelve years ago, and after I read it I realised it had to be ‘Irishised’. So I called up the director, Stephen Frears, a good friend of mine, and asked him to recommend someone who would be great to work with. Stephen suggested that 42 |


provide a word or a line to make it as authentic as possible.” The road to getting the film made began when Close branched out beyond her acting duties into production in the 1990s. She took out a first option on the story in 1998, and realised fairly quickly that it was going to be difficult to raise money for an independent film with such an unlikely theme. “It’s even harder now, of course, but for me to have walked into numerous offices in Hollywood, looking like I look, and tell them

that I’m going to be playing a waiter – in Dublin, in the early 1900s … Well, people get nervous. They can’t make that leap, and so I knew it was going to be a hard sell. That was something I never resented, by the way.” Hard sell rarely equals easy money, however, and so it was the wearying task of raising funds that took up most of the time. Close put up “significant money” of her own, she reveals. “I have two wonderful producers, one of whom is from Texas. We ended up getting our first significant tranche of money from a very, very successful guy there who works in real estate, and we convinced him to come on board. He had never, ever thought about investing in a movie, but I think now he’s very happy!” A member of a prominent New England family (her father was once personal physician to Zaire’s President Mobuto), Close had an apparently idyllic childhood growing up in Greenwich, Connecticut. She studied theatre at William and Mary College in Virginia, and then forged an acting career on (and off) Broadway from 1973 onwards until movie sets usurped the stages. During those early years of her professional life, did she have any sense of where she was going or what she wanted to do? “No, I just wanted to act,” she replies. “At that time in the 1970s, I

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When she was 13, her father, Dr William Close, opened a clinic in the Belgian Congo (later Zaire and now Democratic Republic of the Congo) and ran it for 16 years. During most of that time, the Close children lived alternately in Africa and at boarding schools in Switzerland. Dr William Close was the personal physician and close friend of African dictator Mobutu Sese Seko. Besides being Mobutu’s private physician, he was appointed chief doctor of the national army and helped control the spread of the deadly Ebola epidemic that affected Zaire in 1976. She likes to keep all her costumes after the completion of a movie. She was hired to dub all of Andie MacDowell’s dialogue in the 1984 movie, Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes, because former model MacDowell had such a heavy US southern accent. In 1984, she became the third actor to receive an Oscar, Emmy and Tony nomination in the same calendar year (for, respectively, The Big Chill, Something About Amelia and The Real Thing). Her performance as Alex Forrest in 1987’s Fatal Attraction was ranked Number Seven on the American Film Institute’s list of The Greatest Screen Heroes and Villains. She was the fourth choice to play the role of Alex in Fatal Attraction. Those chosen ahead of her were: Debra Winger, Barbara Hershey and Miranda Richardson. Sharon Stone also auditioned for the role. She is a fervent dog lover, and writes a blog called Lively Licks for fetchdog.com, where she occasionally interviews other celebrities about their canine friends. She lives in Manhattan’s glitzy Beresford Apartment building (northwest corner of 81st Street and Central Park West), which is also the residence of Jerry Seinfeld, Diana Ross, and several other celebrities.


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was very much thinking of theatre, not of movies. I was New Yorkoriented, and that’s as much a theatre town as a movie town. It was an exciting time to start acting back then for my generation of actors, and I always had a very strong sense of what I was attracted to. It goes without saying, that the work starts on the page – not necessarily just the character I’m playing, but the overall story arc, how it’s written, and so on.” For her first three movies, The World According to Garp (1982), The Big Chill (1983) and The Natural (1984), Close was Oscar-nominated consecutively for best supporting actress. She modestly says she was “lucky to get good choices” early on in her film career rather than, as she so succinctly puts it, “have to do a piece of crap that I hate but need to do”. Along the way, she allows, “I think I haven’t compromised too much. Plus, the things that I thought were good at the time, but which for various reasons didn’t work out, ended up being great learning experiences.” A finger-tap lands on my shoulder. As is the case with Hollywood royalty engaged in promotional duties at a film festival, time is at a premium, and so we have about two minutes left to wrap things up. I can’t waste the opportunity, however, to ask Close – albeit briefly – about two of her film roles for which she was Oscar-

Hollywood royalty – Glenn Close on the red carpet at the 2012 Oscars, above, and in Dublin at the film festival’s screening of Albert Nobbs, above right.

nominated for best actress: that of Alex Forrest in Fatal Attraction (1987), and Marquise Isabelle de Merteuil in Dangerous Liaisons (1988). Have these roles somehow defined her in the public eye? “I’m not sure, really,” she avers, “but what they might have done is to make casting people or directors a little bit more inflexible in how they would think of me in a role. I mean, nobody would ever have cast me in Albert Nobbs, which is why I had to cast myself. In relation to certain roles, that can be limiting because with films, in particular, so much of it is about image. “You have me as Marquise de Merteuil in Dangerous Liaisons, you have me as Cruella de Vil in the 101 Dalmatians movies, Alex in Fatal Attraction, and you have me as Patty Hewes in the television show Damages. Many casting people would look at those and never dream of me as somebody as fragile as Albert Nobbs. That can be detrimental, but only if you allow it to be.” Could she have gone the marquee-movie way, perhaps, and signed up for blockbuster after blockbuster? Close shakes her head. “I’m not sure that I fit the marquee-movie mode, to be honest. Essentially, you’re talking about movies that make a lot of money, and there aren’t too many women in my profession that make that kind of money. Julia Roberts did at one point, and Demi Moore at another time. Those women are usually in their thirties when that happens, but that wasn’t my career path. “Do I mind? Not at all – sometimes it’s down to no more than the right parts being in the right place at the right point, and that doesn’t happen all the time.” Albert Nobbs is released in Ireland on April 27, 2012.


’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

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april/may 2012


Kerry Way

From rugged reeks to dramatic coastline, Kerry offers some of Ireland’s best walking and cycling opportunities. Pól Ó Conghaile gets his boots on. And author Colm Tóibín writes about the joys of Listowel’s literary festival. Photographs by Peter Matthews.


| 47




cove cut straight from the Caribbean. When I pull into the windwhipped resort of Ballybunion, parking the car before one of my shortest ever walks in Kerry, this is the last thing I expect to find. Yet 20 minutes later, there it is. And I’m standing above it, gob-smacked. The cove is Nun’s Beach, taking its name from a former convent fronting onto the cliffs. The coastal walk from Ballybunion meets it by veering north from the town’s promontory fort and curving with the cliffs for a kilometre or so. All of a sudden, there’s a wooden fence. And looking down from that fence, I can see gulls teeming around sea stacks, stratified shards of rock topped by carpets of green grass, and waves sweeping into nooks and crannies like fresh sheets floating onto a bed. All the more tantalising is the fact that it seems accessible only by boat. “You had to be fairly nimble to get down there,” Padraig Hanrahan, director of the local Ballybunion Development Company and himself a keen walker, tells me. But somehow the nuns managed it, shimmying through a cave in the subsiding cliffs, apparently, before re-emerging on the brown-sugar sands below. All of this, without walking for as much as half-an-hour. But should I really be that surprised? This is Kerry, after all – self-proclaimed Kingdom, home to Ireland’s highest mountains, to its craggiest coast and

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oldest oak woodlands. Most visitors experience its scenery from the cosy insulation of a car or tour bus – and it’s a fine way to do it. But walking or cycling is finer. Take the North Kerry Way, a 48-kilometre linear route heading northwest along Tralee Bay to Spa, before cutting cross-country to Banna and Ballyheigue (great surfing beaches, both). You can quit here, or continue on a loop of Kerry Head back to Ballyheigue. The terrain turns from bog roads to sandy beaches, from field paths to bashful bohareens, and is hardly touched by tourism. If north Kerry is the hidden gem, Killarney National Park is the crown jewel. “It measures approximately 15 miles by 15 miles,” Jerry O’Grady tells me. He’s an active member of the local hiking group, Walk Killarney.

Previous pages, going coastal – the view from Valentia Island, furthermost tip of Kerry. This page, top, the dark bulk of the mountains around the Gap of Dunloe and, above, the path down onto Nun’s Beach is for the sure-footed only.

It’s camping, but not as we know it. This April, John Brennan of RTE’s At Your Service and Kenmare’s Park Hotel launches a brand new glamping experience at the Victorian Dromquinna Manor overlooking Kenmare Bay. It’s luxury all the way, from king-sized beds to personal verandas and tents made by experts in India. If you get peckish, don’t worry about the tin opener either – there’s an on-site wine bar and bistro. (From €130 per night; 064 664 1494, dromquinnamanor.com) Portmagee is as close as it gets to the ends of the earth – unless, of course, you count stone huts on the Skelligs 13 miles offshore. No matter how inclement the weather, you’re guaranteed a warm welcome and generous menu at The Moorings, a quayside bar and restaurant run by Gerard and Patricia Kennedy. A dozen or so rooms are available in the comfortable (sometimes even luxurious) guesthouse. Valentia is just across the bridge; a creamy pint, or plate of Portmagee crab, just across the counter. (B&B with dinner from €85pps; 066 947 7108, moorings.ie) The Stepping Stone B&B, a renovated stone cottage, makes a good base for hikes through the Dunloe Gap, the Black Valley and up Carrauntoohill. With breathtaking views, this B&B has slate floors, a rustic sitting room with stacks of books and artwork, comfy en-suite rooms and the Cookie Monster’s Café where hosts John and Sandy Heppell serve hearty breakfasts (€8.50) and three-course gourmet meals (€25.50). Don’t miss the mouth-watering homemade brown soda bread with Irish cream-liquor ice cream. (B&B from €22.50pps; 066 976-0215, steppingstonebandb.com) Perched above Dingle, Pax Guest House offers stunning views of the bay. Even though it’s just a short walk from the town’s famed pubs and trad-music sessions, this place offers peace and serenity. Several of the eleven rooms have separate sitting areas and outdoor patios. (B&B from €55 (off-peak from €37.50pps); 066 915-1518, paxhouse.com)

Something for everyone… to see, to do, to enjoy! A luxury 5 star hotel in a breathtaking location with unrivalled complimentary facilities; Horse Riding, Fishing on the River, Indoor Tennis, 25m Swimming Pool, Steam Room and Sauna as well as Children’s Adventure Playground.

from €90pps Now offering dog friendly facilities so your pet can enjoy 5 star treatment too! Explore the magnificent scenery which surrounds The Dunloe - enjoy golfing, sightseeing, walking and hiking, abseiling, rock climbing, kayaking and much more...

Visit our website www.thedunloe.com for more fantastic offers The Dunloe, Killarney, Co. Kerry 064-6644111




“But every kind of terrain you could possibly want is within that small area. From here, you can go back as far as Carrauntoohil, over as far as the Paps [the twin hills near the Cork border] and down as far as the southernmost part of the Kerry Way.” O’Grady is a self-confessed “passionate, dyed-in-the-wool” Killarney man, but even so, it’s hard to challenge his assertion. Killarney National Park is straight out of Lord

of the Rings. From gentle rambles around Ross Castle to the fourhour circuit of Muckross Lake, not to mention Ireland’s longest waymarked route – the 215-kilometre Kerry Way – there’s enough walking here to last a lifetime. This year will see a brace of new lake walks, too. One is Killarney in a nutshell – starting walkers off at the 19th century Muckross House, taking them by boat across the lake and through the Meeting

4 OF THE BEST KERRY GEMS … 1 3 BEST PINT Despite having some of the best pubs on the planet, visitors are often surprised by the paucity of local and artisan beers in Ireland. That’s changing, however, thanks to passionate operators like The Dingle Brewing Company. Tom Crean’s lager, named for Annascaul’s Antarctic hero, tastes clean and crisp, with a sweet infusion of Cara Malt, and the best place to sample it is the brewery itself – an old creamery on the outskirts of town. (dinglebrewingcompany.com) BEST FOR KIDS Jaw-dropping chambers and dramatic calcite formations are just the start of the entertainment at Crag Cave in Castleisland. The complex also includes an adventure play centre with a separate area for under fives, an outdoor playground, an Avoca-style shop and light lunches in the Garden


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Café. Good for a rainy day. (cragcave. com; admission €12/€5 or €30 for 2+2) BEST VIEW Being asked to rank views in Kerry is like being asked to rank pubs in Dublin. How do you rate Moll’s Gap, say, over the Blasket Islands? For sheer awesomeness, however, you can’t beat Skellig Michael. The beehive huts, stony steps and rainbow-beaked puffins on this shard of rock are extra special because so many visits are thwarted by weather. It’s Ireland’s Machu Picchu. BEST WALK Hiking isn’t just the preserve of modern visitors, you know. More than 350 million years ago, a tetrapod creature emerged from the ocean to stroll along the shoreline of what is now Valentia Island, leaving its footprints ensconced in the mud. The fossilised trackway remains in place today, preserved as if in wet concrete near Dohilla. (visitvalentiaisland.ie)


Top left, Muckross House is the starting point for a stunning circular route, taking in the woods and Torc Waterfall, top, right, and encapsulates Killarney in a nutshell. Above, Jerry O’Grady, a hiker and Killarney man through and through.

of the Waters, before pausing for sustenance at Lord Brandon’s Cottage. From there you can follow the Kerry Way back through the Derrycunnihy woods and along the Old Kenmare Road, descending on the Torc Waterfall Trail back towards Muckross. It’s doable within four or five hours. The best thing about walking here – whether following a toddler through the woodland paths of Ross Island, or working your lungs like a bellows on the Devil’s Ladder – is the absence of traffic. Freed from passing cars and buses, you can touch trees, stoop down to feel Lough Leane’s lapping waves, gulp down gallons of fresh Kerry air. Killarney Valley, too, is where you stand the best chance of seeing one of the park’s whitetailed eagles, flourishing since their



Every year, readers, writers and those in love with words head to Listowel for the annual literary fest. Author Colm Toíbín is a regular – he extols the pleasures of Listowel Writers’ Week.



he literary heritage of north Kerry is rich and vibrant. The town of Listowel alone has produced two of Ireland’s bestknown writers of the 20th century – the playwright John B Keane and the short-story writer Bryan MacMahon. Listowel Writers’ Week happens, then, in a place where the written word is treasured. For writers or students or visitors who come each year, the town has a welcoming air; the town’s people respond to new writing with appreciation and knowledge. The festival is intimate and easy-going; thus in years past Nobel prize-winners such as Seamus Heaney and JM Coetzee could walk the streets of Listowel and be left in peace to savour the atmosphere and enjoy themselves. But when they did readings or gave workshops, the venues were packed to hear them. Listowel has a record also of inviting not only such famous writers, but also young writers at the start of their careers and introducing them to a wide audience. This is where you hear new work before it is published. I have a vivid memory of hearing Neil Jordan read from his novel Dream of a Beast in Listowel when it was still in his handwriting. The book is now recognised as a masterpiece. I also have a memory of reading difficult new work of my own that I was unsure about, and finding a response in Listowel that gave me encouragement to continue.

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In Ireland now we need inspiration, and this has come not only from individual writers, poets, painters and musicians; it has also come from organisations such as Writers’ Week. The festival has maintained standards and made sure that expansions and improvements have not undermined the warmth of the welcome and the sense of community involvement. Listowel is a place for people who love reading or who want to write themselves. The workshops and the literary events in Listowel are food for the soul and the brain. The great thing, the special thing, is that while all this is serious and important, it is not ever solemn. And this can be proved by the atmosphere when the readings are over, the lovely early summer night has come down, and the pubs are full of talk and laughter. That too is part of the charm of the festival, part of the reason why people come back to Listowel Writers’ Week year after year and why it is an essential part of our literary calendar. Writers’ Week takes place from May 30 to June 3, 2012 and will feature such authors as Patrick DeWitt, Germaine Greer, Jeremy Strong, Anne Enright, Carol Birch, Simon Armitage, Julian Gough, John Lanchester, Peter Taylor, Belinda McKeon and many more and also includes art, music, launches, theatre and a full children’s festival. Full details on writersweek.ie

Above, the view back to the mainland from Valentia Island, above, right, fishing boats line the harbour in Portmagee. Right, Kerry perennials – sheep on a boreen.

reintroduction five years ago. “The sight is absolutely incredible,” O’Grady says. “Even as chicks, you’re talking about a bird bigger than your average Christmas turkey. The last sighting I had was two of them on the thermals, soaring up and up and up, without so much as a feather-flap, defying gravity.” Then you have Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, incorporating Carrauntoohil – Ireland’s highest mountain at 1,038 metres (3,406 feet). If Muckross House is all manicured detail, this is pure wilderness, a landscape of barren ridges and bird’s eye views. The Reeks should not be undertaken lightly – certainly not without a map and compass, and preferably in the company of a guide. The weather is notoriously unreliable in these parts, and wind and low cloud can quickly turn narrow ridges treacherous. Hardy hikers will know Macgillycuddy’s Reeks as an early feature of the Kerry Way – a lengthy route that few visitors are fit enough

fancy WHERE TO STAY IN LISTOWEL? If you The Listowel picking up writing tips, book a room at rati relaxing Arms Hotel where you may find the lite m. over a pint in a firelit bar, listowelarms.co

to tackle. Like the Dingle Way, a 179-kilometre circuit of the Dingle Peninsula, the Kerry Way loops around the Iveragh Peninsula, taking eight or more days to complete. But even if you can’t walk these epic trails, there is a way to experience their highlights without succumbing to the anaesthetic atmosphere of a car. That way involves not four wheels, but two. “Cycling in Kerry makes me feel like I’m offloading stress and tension with every turn of the pedal.” That’s how Donnacha Clifford, who runs the cycling website KerryCycling. com, puts it. “I’ve been cycling some of these routes for 15 years, but every turn in the road is still a

wonderment for me. The sound of a light breeze in your ears, beautifully fresh, clean Atlantic air in your lungs, and not a care in the world … it’s a very hard feeling to match.” Some 143 kilometres of the Ring of Kerry Cycle Route follows quiet country roads, with the remaining 74 kilometres running alongside traffic on the N70. It’s recommended that you allow a week to appreciate fully all the towns, villages and atmosphere along the way, cycling in a clockwise direction. Moving at this pace allows the landscape to unfold like the pages of a novel, not like fleeting swipes on an iPad. You appreciate the smaller details. Men fixing baskets to donkeys in anticipation of tourist photos, a couple reading newspapers in a car as rain pours down on Rossbeigh

EAT AT ... Value and atmosphere don’t always go together in Kerry, but Packie’s is an exception. Main courses range from local lamb to wild salmon in this bustling Kenmare institution, and starters such as citrus lobster salad with homemade mayonnaise are a cut above regular bistro fare. Prices may be high by national standards, but they include sides like fries, roast vegetables and mixed leaves. (Henry Street, Kenmare, 064 664 1508) Pay As You Please in Killarney does exactly what it says on the tin, by asking diners to pay “what you believe your experience was worth”. Pizzas, falafels and

zingy salads are typical dishes in the Market Lane pop-up, with soup served in a bread-bowl, something of a signature dish. Funky projections enliven the space and, when you’re done, you simply pop a payment into the box marked “Pay Here”. (086 306 8253, facebook.com/ payasyouplease) Quality seafood options abound in the happening harbour town of Dingle, but even in exalted company, Out of the Blue stands out. Maybe it’s the location, in an old herring smoking house. Maybe it’s the tiny room. Or maybe it’s the blow-your-mind Blasket Island scallops. “Everything fresh or

alive, nothing frozen, no chips,” says a message on the chalkboard outside. It’s a statement of intent. (066 915 0811, outoftheblue.ie) With its name emblazoned in bold lettering on the roof, The Oyster Tavern in Tralee doesn’t announce itself very subtly but, step inside, and the seduction begins. Dishes such as Dingle Bay prawns or roast monkfish in Parma ham complement wild views outside, or you can budget with a more basic bar menu. A classy little place, but not so classy as to preclude an aul’ fella with a cap at the end of the bar. (066 713 6102, facebook.com/oystertavern)


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beach, the lifeboat bobbing off the coast of Valentia, the clear waters of O’Carroll’s Cove, or Daniel O’Connell’s duelling pistols at Derrynane House. The Great Liberator once shot a man in a duel, I learned on a visit to his former home, after which he always wore a black glove to Communion. Whatever about Caribbean coves, however, it should be said that tropical weather is rarely on the itinerary in Kerry. Sure, you can throw a pair of shades into the panniers. It may even be sunny. But you may also end up drinking pints of rain, getting blown backwards by wind, or discovering just how bad a shower of hailstones can sting. In the summer months, getting around ... it’s advisable to take full raingear. (€5pp) to difficult, 6.5-8.5-hour mountain treks When walking or cycling in Kerry, always wear In winter, you might as well bring appropriate clothing and footwear. Be prepared (€30pp). Book at least 48 hours in advance, sunscreen. I’ve given up trying to 1850 566 466 or email walk@killarney.ie. for rain, and carry enough fluids, snacks and a second-guess the weather – last For more information on walking in Kerry, see fully-charged mobile phone for your trip. Maps time I visited Dingle, in July, it discoverireland.ie/Kerry. and a compass are essential on mountain treks rained so hard a mudslide mulched For tHe CyCLiSt and, even on easy loops, it’s sensible to tell halfway across the cliff road. killarney O’Sullivan Cycles, 064 663 1282, someone where you’re going and when you Weather aside, there are rich killarneyrentabike.com expect to be back. The Kerry Way features pickings on the Dingle Peninsula for ring of kerry Casey Cycles, New Street, some long stretches between overnight both walkers and cyclists (“there’s Caherciveen, 066 947 2474 accommodation possibilities, so walkers need no such thing as bad weather, just dingle Foxy John Moriarty’s, Main Street, 066 to plan carefully around these. bad preparation,” as Clifford says). 915 1316 For tHe WaLker Poking 50 kilometres out into the tralee Tralee Gas Supplies, High Street, 066 Walk killarney (killarney.ie/walkkillarney) runs Atlantic, and just 21 kilometres 712 2018. a wide range of walks and mountain treks on wide at its broadest point, Kerry’s For more on cycling in Kerry, see kerrycycling.com. request, ranging from 2.5-hour low-level walks northernmost peninsula is home to awesome beaches, hulking strand - is the kind of sensation Crean is famous for walking 56 mountains, colourful seaside cyclists never tire of. It was here kilometres in freezing temperatures villages and big coastal plains. that much of Ryan’s Daughter with only a couple of biscuits and The Dingle Way walking go green was filmed in 1969. a stick of chocolate for sustenance loop sets out from The €4.5 million Tralee Bay Of course, Kerry isn’t – thankfully, hikers and cyclists in Tralee, but I reckon Wetlands Centre is the newest just about National modern-day Kerry do not have to the best sections are addition to Kerry’s great outdoors. Visitors Geographic-style match those feats of stamina. In the westernmost can learn about the surrounding ecosystem, views. Cairns, Killarney, the gates to the national stretches, taking in as well as take a safari boat ride and enjoy standing stones park are a stone’s throw from the the saddle below panoramas over the 3,240-hectare Tralee Bay and crumbling town centre. Like the surprisingly Mount Brandon. Nature Reserve from a 20-metre viewing tower. churches litter the short distance to Nun’s Beach in Accommodation is mountainsides. Ballybunion, you could be ambling also plentiful along Situated where the River Lee enters Tralee Many’s the tourist its wood and lakeside pathways the way. Bay, admission costs €6/€4 or you can who has seen lunch within minutes. Likewise, the walk or cycle pathways for free in last the afternoon at peninsula’s best cycle the activity zone. (066 719-1355, Páidi Ó Sé’s pub in is the 46-kilometre traleebaywetlands.org) Hertz car rental Cara would like Ventry, or trekked through loop from Dingle through to thank Hertz for their assistance. an Endurance Burger at Ventry, Dunquin and For best car rental deals, visit Annascaul’s South Pole Inn. The Ballyferriter. Rounding the bends aerlingus.com and click on the latter was where Tom Crean retired here to spot the Blasket Islands Hertz icon. Or call reservations after his Antarctic exploits with Scott offshore, or surfers catching breaks from Ireland, 01 813 3844. and Shackleton, to be permitted the at Coumeenoole – as their dogs wait odd Guinness by his wife, Nell. patiently on a driftwood – strewn 54 |

april/may 2012

IllusTraTIon By DermoT Flynn


“a county that you might not yet know - but you will never forget.” Less than two hours from Dublin and Belfast and only 40 minutes from Ireland West Airport (Knock)

explore... Hikers and walkers can explore a myriad of majestical beauty spots across the county whether they accept the challenge of Sliabh an Iariann (the Iron Mountain) with its slopes and steep upper reaches, the sweeping Glens of North Leitrim or opt for the more leisurely role of roving rambler.

experience... This historic county which came into being in 1583. The magnificent Cavan Leitrim gauge railway offers history buffs a chance to experience the age of steam transport. Or gaze upon the labour of love that is the Costello Memorial Chapel, Europe’s smallest chapel which was built by a local man in memory of his wife.

enjoy... Europe’s longest inland waterway, the Shannon Erne and river Shannon meander through the county. Leitrim’s lakes and rivers are renowned as somewhat of an Anglers Paradise. Enjoy these unspoiled waters and avail of a well equipped cruiser or better still sit back and leave it to the skipper of a local waterbus where whatever the weather you can enjoy the picturesque splendor complete with commentary and refreshments. Thinking of a summer holiday or weekend getaway? Why not break away from the norm and consider Leitrim. One of the most spectacular locations in the North West, a traditional Leitrim welcome is guaranteed. To avail of special offers please use reference Explore Leitrim when making your reservation!

Visit www.enjoyleitrim.com or call 071 9620 170 www.facebook.com/leitrimtourism @leitrimtourism

EscapE to thE hamptons

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april/may 2012

Summer Living

New Yorkers who descend on the Hamptons have summer stays down to an art. But for out-of-towners, Julie Schwietert Collazo has the lowdown on where to go and what to do in the Long Island villages beloved of VIPs. Photographs by Daniel Gonzalez.


he Hamptons has long been the “it” place for New York City residents to get away for the summer and the appeal of this collection of villages on the eastern end of Long Island seems to grow with each passing year. To summer in the Hamptons is to make a satisfying tickmark on the New Yorker’s bucket list. Though there are people who live here year-round, the Hamptons really come alive just after Memorial Day weekend (the last weekend in May). Storefront windows are

shined up, the “By Appointment Only” signs of autumn and winter are stored away and the season’s social calendars are finalised. Beach bungalows from Westhampton to Montauk are aired and opened up as the population starts to swell and business booms. The Hampton Jitney – New Yorkers’ preferred means of transportation to and from the Hamptons – rolls into the villages more frequently. Its doors whoosh open and “the summer people with their designer clothes and hurry-up suntans”, as essayist

Wilfrid Sheed called them, step into the salty air and adjust their sunglasses, ready to see and be seen. Thus it begins: summer in the Hamptons. Many New Yorkers have summer in the Hamptons down to an art. They know when to show up and where to sun. They know which restaurants serve the best food and where unique beach souvenirs can be found. And they know which events will give them biggest bragging rights once they’re back in the city. How do you get your head around it as an out-of-towner?


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First, get your bearings. The Hamptons occupy southeastern Long Island, referred to locally as “South Fork”, and comprise about eleven villages, starting with Westhampton on the southwestern end and bike, the latter being a good option Previous pages, kite surfing in working all the way up through during the traffic-congested summer the Hamptons. Southampton, Bridgehampton, months when parking is pricy, if it Clockwise from East Hampton and, finally, can be found at all. Approaching above, bathing Montauk, on the southern side of the Hamptons in this way will give beauties – Sagg Main Beach, the fork. On the northern side is you a good sense of each village’s Bridgehampton; Sag Harbor, also considered part of vibe. Inevitably, you’ll come away it doesn’t get any the Hamptons, though locals like with a favourite. better than this ... it to refer to their village as the “unWhat all the Hamptons villages could be the motto Hampton”. While the villages are share, of course, and what serves for Hamptons grouped together as “the Hamptons”, life; Main Beach as the main draw during summer Easthampton. each has its own vibe. Sag Harbor, months, are beaches. There’s a for example, preserves much of its remarkable variety, from the rocky, past as a whaling village, while East shell-ridden Montauk Point Hampton embraces its identity Beach, picturesque with its BEST as a more laid-back, coastal surf-casting fishermen, BEACH version of Manhattan. Its to the wide expanse of How do you choose amongst Main Street is New York Wainscott Beach, and the Hamptons’ many beaches? City’s Fifth Avenue in the dune-swept, softTake the advice of Dr Stephen miniature, with luxury sand spread of Gibson Leatherman (aka “Dr Beach”), who shops such as Tiffany & Co Beach. Like the villages releases an annual list of America’s and Coach drawing deepthemselves, each beach best beaches. He ranks pocketed shoppers. has a distinct personality Coopers Beach as the It’s possible – and and attracts a different advisable – to choose one type of crowd. The young, Hamptons’ best. of the villages as your base, fun partying set heads to Sagg venturing out to explore the Beach and Flying Point Beach; other ones during your stay. The show up in your best brand-name Hamptons are relatively compact bathing suit, with a beach umbrella and your own cooler full of beer. and you can rove about by car or by 58 |


Slightly lower-key, family-friendly spots are Main Beach and Indian Wells Beach. Forget the beach book that was recommended to you as the perfect summer read; people watching is the activity of choice here. No one cares that the northern Atlantic’s turbulent, teacoloured waters lack the calmness and the crystalline topaz hues of the Caribbean; it’s all the more reason why the people are the Hamptons’ main attraction. Though beaches are what most people come to the Hamptons for, they’re not the be-all and end-all of summer social life. Stroll the shore for seashells in the morning and sunbathe for a bit in the afternoon, but roll up the beach towel as the sun starts to dip because the day is still young. Good food, good art and good times occupy afternoon and evening hours, and their pursuit pushes the most adventurous long into the night. Many of those good times are organised by celebrities, and trying to snag an invitation to an A-list party is a prime pastime. But even

ESCAPE Beachcomber’s souvenirs decorate the shingle on a harbour house.


if you’re not so lucky, you are likely to see a familiar face during your visit. Author JK Rowling has spent some of her Harry Potter fortune on a home here, and Madonna, Billy Joel, Martha Stewart, Steven Spielberg and Jerry Seinfeld are a handful of the A-list names you’d recognise on mailboxes around town ... if their names were listed on mailboxes. Seinfeld’s spread is particularly impressive, complete with a 22-car garage (and yes, it’s full). Though they come here to retreat to their “cottages”, celebrities are fixtures on the local social circuit and it’s unlikely you’ll return home without rubbing elbows with one or more of them. Arrive on a Friday afternoon and check in to the historic, upscale Huntting Inn, right in the heart of East Hampton. Literally steps away from Main Street’s shops and

restaurants, you can’t find a place to stay that’s more convenient; it’s also across the street from a Hampton Jitney stop. If you’re hungry, the renowned steakhouse, The Palm, is inside the inn; it also serves fresh lobster and other seafood dishes. Popular among locals and visitors alike, The Palm consistently ranks on Zagat’s best restaurants of Long Island list, released annually. If you’re willing to range farther afield, Starr Boggs, in Westhampton, is a must-dine restaurant known for its seafood and its original Andy Warhol paintings decorating the walls. Conch chowder and crab cakes are house specialties, but don’t miss Little Neck Clams, either; they’re harvested fresh from the Long Island Sound. The restaurant’s mahogany wood bar is a tantalising invitation to tipple and, from your stool, you’ll see the Hamptons’ glitterati parade past en route to a table.


“Sag Harbor, or the ‘Hidden Hampton’, is my first port of call. First up, the ‘lovely hour’ at The American Hotel is like ‘happy hour’ only prettier. This vintage Victorian hotel on Main Street in Sag Harbor hosts the well-heeled crowd for lunch, dinner or drinks. Be sure to book a table on the porch for brunch. (001 631 725 3535, theamericanhotel.com) Surrounded on three sides by water, Long Island’s east end is best enjoyed by sea. Whether you’re looking for a casual cruise or an elegant yachting experience, Jenny Landy can arrange your charter at East Hampton

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Yacht Company. (001 917 743 2525, easthamptonyachtco.com) East Hampton, voted one of America’s most beautiful villages, is home to c/o The Maidstone Hotel, a country inn with Swedish flare. Its Living Room Restaurant and Lounge is the place to rub elbows with notable celebrities. (001 631 324 5006, careofhotels.com/ maidstone) Voting on who serves the best Lobster Roll in the Hamptons is more divisive than national politics. With its pond-side setting and catches fresh from the sea, Duryea’s in Montauk gets my vote. Arrive onsite with your bottle of wine or grab “to go” to watch the sunset session at Ditch Plaines Beach. (001 631 668 2410, duryealobsters.com) Surf Lodge in Montauk

serves up killer cocktails and sunsets. Its chill lounge deck on Fort Pond with DJ Rob or live music from local songstress Nancy Atlas, is a social epicentre and a favourite of mine. (001 631 668 1562, thesurflodge.com) The Hideaway, also in Montauk, is a must for the most delicious fresh and authentic Mexican food. It’s the perfect après surf, après beach local spot. (001 631 668 6592, thehideawaymontauk.com) Everyone, from kids to hedge fund managers, is into the surfing culture of the Hamptons. Your one-stop-shop for all the gear you need and lessons is Air and Speed in Montauk. You can take surf lessons by the day, hour, or week. (001 631 668 0356, airandspeedsurf.com)

The local farming families that sell the freshest local produce straight from the field (squeezing tomatoes allowed) are quintessential to my business success. Visit Pike’s Farm Stand in Sagaponack on Sag g Main Street just south of Route 27 (001 631 537 5854) or Halsey’s Farm Stand 512 Deerfield Road, Watermill (001 631 726 4843) and stock up on the best produce for your picnic.”


Originally from Dublin, Janet O’Brien is a leading light on the Hamptons social scene – not just because she’s on every guest list, but as the force behind her company, Janet O’Brien Caterers+Events Inc., based in NY and the Hamptons. She opens her little black book for us.

Eat at ...

Even if you don’t have an invitation to an exclusive party, you can still get in on the action. Various websites and social networking groups have sprouted up recently to tip members off to events; you can register for free on a site like HamptonsUndercover. com in advance of your visit to receive VIP invitations. If that all seems like too much work, opt for a hotel bar, such as that at Surf Lodge in Montauk, which also offers live concerts to amp up the energy, or one of the area’s popular nightclubs. Pink Elephant and The White House are local favourites. And don’t overlook gallery openings, the annual ArtHamptons art fair, fundraisers and charity benefits; these are key to the Hamptons’ social scene and are the easiest way for visitors to clink glasses with other movers and shakers. Besides beachcombing, eating, and glass-clinking, the Hamptons offer plenty to keep you entertained for a weekend or longer. One of the most popular pastimes on the South Fork is exploring Montauk, the most eastern point on Long Island. A 30-minute drive from East Hampton, the once-shabby Montauk has only recently become a magnet for travellers, thanks to the renovation of a number of hotels into freshened-up, boutique lodgings. Here, you can taste the salt in the air and see the fishermen pulling in their hauls while trying your own hand – or legs – at the coastal life. Montauk has become world-famous for its surfing; if you want to test the waves for yourself,

The well-kept vineyard at Wolffer Estate, the place to head at sunset for a chilled glass of wine.

the Living Room Local and slow are the buzz words here. (207 Main Street, East Hampton, 001 631 324 5006, careofhotels.com/ maidstone) Harvest on Fort Pond Plates for sharing at this restaurant on the pond. (11 South Emery Street, Montauk, 001 631 668 5574, harvest20 0 0 . com/hfp) Lobster Roll The blue, white and brick building, with the words “Lunch” jutting out of the roof, may seem unassuming, but this is the best place for the eponymous – and obligatory – lobster roll. (1980 Montauk Highway, Amagansett, 001 631 267 3740, lobsterroll.com) LtBurger in the Harbor Big burgers chased by chi-chi shakes at this celebrity hotspot – check out the signatures on the wall near the register. (62 Main Street, Sag Harbor, 001 631 899 4646, ltburger.com)

SLEEP at ...

BUDGEt Sole East Updated retro chic. (Rooms from $189, 90 Second House Road, Montauk, 001 631 668 2105, soleeast.com) MID-PRICE the Huntting Inn Historic and convenient, particularly for visitors coming in on the Hampton Jitney. (Rooms from $250, 94 Main Street, East Hampton, 001 631 324 0410, thepalm.com/Huntting-Inn). SPLURGE Capri Boutique Hotel for the social set, with a shiny white and bright beachy colour scheme. (Rooms from $395, 281 County Road, 39A, Route 27, Southampton, 001 631 504 6575, caprisouthampton.com)

LT Burger

Harbor Farmers Market Local goods like honey and candles make easy-topack gifts to take home. (Check SagHarbor-Farmers-Market Facebook page for current location)

DRINK at ...

Wolffer Estate Vineyard Spectacular sunset over the vineyard, with wine on the stone terrace. (139 Sagg Road, Sagaponack, 001 631 537 5106, wolffer.com) Southampton Publick House Brew at the Hamptons’ oldest brewery. (40 Bowden Square, Southampton, 001 631 283 2800, publick.com) Southampton Publick House Brew

SHOP at ...

BookHampton East Hampton’s independent bookstore has beach reads and local history. (41 Main Street, East Hampton, 001 631 324 4939, bookhampton.com) Sag

has up-to-date calendars for current and don’t miss Discoverlongisland.com surrounding areas of Long Island. Key upcoming events in the Hamptons and ks mpton Fresh Air Home Benefit Firewor summer events include–June 29 Southa tional Fine Art Fair; Show; July 13-15 ArtHamptons Interna w August 26 Hampton Classic Horse Sho april/may 2012

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GETTING THERE If you’re going to sit in traffic – and you are, if you travel by anything other than helicopter or boat – let someone else do the driving and take the Hampton Jitney. From JFK, you’ll need to take a taxi from the airport to Fresh Meadows, Queens (tell the driver to leave you at the corner of 190th Street and the Eastbound Service Road of the Long Island Expressway). The stop for the Jitney is in front of

the Fresh Meadows Cineplex Odeon Movie Theatre. There are regular Hamptons departures; check the website for specific times (approx $53 return for weekend ticket; hamptonjitney.com). The trip can take from 2.5 – 4 hours, depending on traffic. Another option is to take Long Island Rail Road’s Montauk Line train from Penn Station in Manhattan. Average trip time is three hours. (mta.info/lirr)

Surfers’ delight – Montauk is known for its quality surfing – and chilled out nightlife.

several shops rent gear and offer lessons for firsttimers. End the day at any of those renovated hotels’ bars or restaurants; Surf Lodge and Sole East are popular spots for those in-the-know. Following Long Island’s winery trail is another option for daytime activities and is a perfect way to fit in a visit to many of the Hamptons’ villages. A favourite stop on the winery trail is the Wolffer Estate Vineyard, a 23-year-old European style winery and vineyard that sits on about 20 hectares of a 70-hectare parcel. Visitors can arrange tours in advance or show up any time for a tasting. If you’re searching for gifts to give friends and family, there are plenty of shops waiting to help you fill your suitcase 62 |


... for a price. Cynthia Rowley’s boutique at the newly opened Capri Hotel in Southampton sells colourful, casual jewellery, sun hats and board games that spark memories of sun and sand. Montauk Carriage House, in Montauk, sells handmade jewellery and prints of local landmarks, such as the Montauk Point Lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in the US. You might even want to pick up a souvenir for yourself, proof that you were here, summering with New York’s cool set. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily, and from Shannon to New York, Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun.

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april/may 2012

The beauty of


If there is one thing Berlin has in abundance it’s attitude – whether it’s in street life, provocative art, hipster cafés or ice-cool clubs. Writer John Butler explores the city. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

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Previous pages, left, cold war relics at a stall near Checkpoint Charlie and, right, the iconic Brandenburg Gate. This page, clockwise from top left, Berlin face – architecture student, Kathleen Copietz; café life is raised to an art; a remnant of the Berlin Wall; children playing at the Tiergarten.


ities are a feeling, really. On the surface, the average Eurometropolis offers tiny variations on a theme: interchangeable financial districts with reflective glassy towers, down-market artistic hubs, a shopping Mecca in between, and a concentration of hip bars and restaurants along the way. But at street level, each seemingly similar place can be distinguished through its distinct personality; the vibe you get from people, and from the elements (history, food, weather) that shape their unique character. And if every city is a feeling, no city in Europe makes me feel better than Berlin. The population nudges four million yet, walking through the central district of Mitte, one is struck (as with Tokyo) by the order. If there are cars, they purr past. Restrained public advertising displays an aesthetic sensibility (imagine that!), seating in ambientlit, perfectly heated cafés is

comfortable, and children and adults play ping-pong in welldesigned playgrounds. Despite the calm, though, Berliners are wilfully countercultural and you’re constantly being reminded that collective order never trumps the spirit of the individual. Stencil

graffiti and provocative public art abounds, and though many squats have been boarded up, if you can rent a room, you can open a shop, restaurant or bar – speaking of which, they only close when you leave them, which makes leaving them desperately difficult.

Berlin in summer The bleak, dark Berlin winter tumbles almost headlong into a glorious summer that you can bank on. By March, residents have begun to emerge blinking into the sunlight, starved of melatonin, sick to the back teeth of Glühwein, and wielding bicycle pumps and deckchairs. Because of the hibernation, summer in Berlin is

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a raucous affair. The municipal pool complex in Kreuzberg is teeming (U-Bahn Prinzenstrasse), deckchairs adorn the canal and the banks of the Spree, on the surface of which the public Badeschiff swimming pool (Eichenstrasse 4), floats ingeniously. Further south, the airfield at closed, historic Tempelhof Airport is

over-run with kite fliers and barbecues, and the Tiergarten is a maze of rollerblading and cycling. Okay, so a lot of what we imagine Berlin to be involves snowscapes and heartysausage- based dinners. But come here in June, and you’ll have little trouble forgetting all about your long-johns and ordering sushi.

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains... Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c


viSit the titanic’S laSt port of call cobh, co. cork, ireland



2012 SerieS of eventS highlights:

9th - 15th APRIL

Weeklong programme of events remembering the titanic and the people involved with her.

11th - 14th APRIL

‘An Irish Connection’: Evening outdoor Gala Concerts with International Artists, taking place on the waterfront promenade in Cobh, telling the story of emigration and the titanic’s connection with Ireland. Suitable for all ages. tickets €20 on www.tickets.ie (excl. booking fee)

9th JUNE

Ford Short Film Competition.

22ND - 24th JUNE

Live on Spike, Music Festival. ...and many more events throughout the year. Call +353 21 4855623 or visit www.titanic100.ie

The Centenary is here For updates Call +353 21 4855623 or visit



Clockwise from top, the landmark TV Tower at Alexanderplatz; viewing seats at Volkspark am Weinbergsweg; student Lydia Johanna Papendorf.

Sleep at ...

Budget For accommodation options within all price ranges, it’s hard to beat websites such as airbnb.com, where you can rent apartments of all shapes and sizes, for any length of time and in all kinds of interesting neighbourhoods. On my last trip, I stayed in a clean warm studio in an old East German apartment block on Rochstrasse run by the people at be-my-guest.com – Marlene

was mine, which, though small, was central and cost €72 per night. But if you simply must have that over-priced continental breakfast ... Mid-range There was an old woman who lived in a shoe but that was a while ago now, in fairness. These days the only people living in shoes are an army of hipsters who like to stay at the Camper boutique hotel chain (casacamper.com/berlin/). Rooms

The residents curate a city where artists across all mediums (including a huge number of Irish ex-pats) live and work in great conditions, for relatively little (tenant rights are fiercely protected and rents remain low). People here are perplexed by Ireland’s seduction by the global boom. In a coffee shop in the up-and-coming Neukölln, I overhear an enamoured Irish man ask a beautiful waitress if she likes his brand new jacket. She calmly appraises it and sets his latte down before replying with a warm smile, “It is okay but I am not a consumerist so I cannot say for sure if it is nice or not.” This is 2012 and I want to weep or tip her massively. It’s hard to know which is less appropriate. At the heart of this unique city stands the TV Tower at Alexanderplatz, in old East Berlin, a constant point of orientation as you explore the city. The River Spree runs through it west to east, along whose banks lie many museums and government buildings. Given how safe, friendly and transport-efficient this city is, the best thing to do is hang the bus tours, get on out there and explore by bike, by foot, or using the excellent public transport system. A 72-hour Berlin Welcome Card for unlimited transport on tram, U-Bahn and S-Bahn costs €23.90.

are numbered from the outside so, from street level, you can point and squeal upon recognition of your place. Complimentary snacks and drinks are served at the roof-top, hang-out spot, which boasts very nice panoramic views. You can rent bikes here, which is a definite perk. Twin rooms from €165 a night. Splurge From most rooms at the front of the Hotel adlon (kempinski.com/de/berlinadlon/

Seiten/Welcome.aspx) you get a superb view of the Brandenburg Gate, but that wasn’t enough to prevent Michael Jackson from dangling his baby “Blanket” out the window for a superior gawk. This place on Unter den Linden 77 cannot be beaten for location, nor for historical importance – between the wars, they all stayed here: Chaplin, Garbo, Louise Brooks. Double rooms from €270 per night.

BEST STAY? Looking for a place to stay that gets you in with the locals? Be My Guest offers handpicked accommodation with tailor-made itineraries that will have you rocking with the locals in Berlin, Amsterdam and Edinburgh. Their inside info covers the latest hipster hangouts, cultural hot spots and chic eateries; be-my-guest.com. 68 |

april/may 2012

Guided Factory Tour, Opulent Retail Store featuring the largest collection of the world’s most coveted name in crystal.

House of Waterford Crystal The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland Call: +353 (0)51 317 000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com


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Opposite page, top, café society at St Oberholz Café on Rosenthaler Strasse and, below, left, sweet treat at Café Fleury. Left, classic designs on Prenzlauer Berg. This page, Warhol’s “Mao” at Hamburger Bahnhof, the Museum for Contemporary Art.

april/may 2012

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Berlin’s turbulent history eAt At ... is constantly being processed through works of art and it’s all Budget Get at me on Twitter if you disagree, but my pet accessible. Pre-book a visit to theory is that no European two rather special galleries A dAy trip country excels at all three in Mitte. Art collector Potsdam, a 45-minute train of our daily square Erika Hoffmann, and ride away, is home to Frederick meals. In Germany, her late husband Rolf, the Great’s summer palace, built in breakfast is king. wanted to live and 1745, and known as Sanssouci (0049 331 Try nola in the park work in proximity 969 4190). This baroque residence was (Veteranenstrasse to their art, and to created as a place for the young monarch 9, 0049 30 4404 share it with the to indulge his love of music, art and 0766, nearest U-Bahn public. Since 1997, Rosenthaler Platz), for guided tours through philosophy, far from the pomp and the great traditional a converted sewing responsibility of militaristic life in platter of German factory have taken place Berlin. Guided tour, €10. Frühstück, including the every Saturday, 11amshouldn’t-work-but-it-does 4pm, and admission is €10. KiBa, which is a fruit drink of The Sammlung Hoffmann cherry and banana juice. I know. collection (Sophienstrasse 21, 0049 30 2849 9121, sammlungAbove, left, in For dinner, torstrasse seems to be pancake-flat Berlin, emerging as the restaurant mile in hoffmann.de) includes works by the bicycle is king, Berlin – a clutch of great places at the Gruppe Zero, Bruce Nauman, Spanish journalist all price ranges can be found on or Jean-Michel Basquiat, Nan Goldin Jordi Garcia and Andy Warhol, and, somewhat Rodriguez takes around this Mitte thoroughfare. Get wonderfully, the personal tour a moment. Right, a booking at any of the following: the Holocaust noto (Torstrasse 173, 0049 30 2009 concludes in Erika’s private kitchen Memorial, 19,000 5387, noto-berlin.com), tartana with the offer of a glass of tap water. sq metres of bleak, Also book in advance (online cold concrete, (Torstrasse 225, 0049 30 4472 only at sammlung-boros.de) for a designed by 7036), Alpenstück (Gartenstrasse 9, Peter Eisenman. 0049 30 2175 1646, alpenstueck.de), visit to The Boros Bunker, 72 |

april/may 2012

and themroc (Torstrasse 183, 0049 162 425 1121) Note – many Berlin restaurants (most) don’t accept credit cards. Mid-rAnge Schwarzwaldstuben It’s not just the schnitzel at the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) themed restaurant, but a range of local food including Geschmelzte Maultaschen, Flammkuchen with home-made horseradish, a terrific ravioli dish, great potato and salmon soup, wonderful beers on tap, and friendly staff. Oh, and the schnitzel is superb. (Tucholskystrasse 48, 0049 30 2809 8084) Splurge 3 Minutes sur Mer An off-shoot of Bandol-Sur-Mer next door on Torstrasse, both of which serve excellent French cuisine to the Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg gentry. This place is too hip for a website, but the telephone number is 0049 30 6730 2052. Great pork belly, an extensive wine list, and no chance of a seat without reservation. For that you can blame Brad Pitt, who haunted “Bandol” during the shooting of Inglourious Basterds.

“Mother and dead Child” by käthe kollwitz at neue Wache.

A dAy on A bike Apart from a few gentle inclines, Berlin is pancake-flat, with a proliferation of cycle lanes and very little car traffic. Fat Tire Bike Tours (0049 30 2404 7991, fattirebiketours. com/berlin) is at the foot of the TV tower and offers good cycling tours, or you can go it alone and hire a bike for €12 a day. Cycle down Unter den Linden towards the Brandenburg Gate, and along the way you’ll pass the Berlin State Opera, St Hedwig’s Cathedral, the Zeughaus (German Historical Museum), and the Altes Palais. Do not miss the Neue Wache, though, and the memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism. The interior of this Doric column-fronted building is intentionally empty and, beneath a round hole in the ceiling, Käthe Kollwitz’s powerful sculpture depicts a mother cradling a dead child. In summer the sun can bathe it in a circle of light, but in winter the figure is dusted with flakes, hunched within a widening puddle of freezing snow-water. After passing the Brandenburg Gate, cycle through the Tiergarten, stopping first at The Berlin Victory Column, decorated with gold-painted cannons taken from vanquished foes of the Prussian Empire and

immortalised by Wim Wenders in Wings of Desire. It pre-dates the Nazi regime, but was appropriated by Hitler and moved to form the centre of his proposed “Germania”. Continuing through the Tiergarten you’ll arrive at Berlin Zoo (zoo-berlin.de), home of the late Knut the Polar Bear. Nearby lies Schleusenkrug, a terrific canal-side place for food. Sit outside regardless of weather, as most places provide thick, coarse hair blankets and, if you miss this place, nearby lies Café am Neuen See, another great café with a good menu. After the pit-stop, continue back east and close to Potsdamer Platz, there’s a clutch of interesting sights, all within a mile of each other. Admission to the Mies van der Rohe-designed Neue Nationalgalerie (neue-nationalgalerie.de) ranges from €8 to €14, depending on what areas you want to visit. The permanent collection includes works by Paul Klee, Francis Bacon and Picasso. Nearby are Checkpoint Charlie, the Jewish Museum (Lindenstrasse 9-14, jmberlin.de), and the Topography of Terror (Niederkirchnerstrasse 8, topographie.de) off Stresemannstrasse (where the Gestapo, SS and Reich security offices were located,

and where the longest untouched stretch of the old wall remains). Also nearby is the Martin-Gropius-Bau (Niederkirchner Strasse 7) where, from mid-March, the Getty collection of post war Los Angeles art will be on view. Travel back north towards the Brandenburg Gate (a 25-minute cycle at most) and, on your right, you will encounter the Peter Eisenman-designed, 19,000 sq metres Holocaust Memorial. It’s not without its critics, but walking amidst the undulating slabs of bleak, cold concrete is a deeply unsettling experience; no relief along their blank surfaces, the edges equally sharp, and the light source narrowing as you descend. Obliquely and ingeniously, it calls to mind the unfathomable horror of the Holocaust. There’s such a vast array of wildly contrasting stimuli in this city and yet it seems to present a harmonious whole. Cities are a feeling, and I’m pretty sure it’s not just penniless writers who are so glad Berlin never caught affluenza like some other European destinations (ahem). The mystery as always on the flight back is, why don’t I live there?

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The insider’s Guide

photogrAph by NiCk & Chloé / niCkandChloe.Com

Irishman Brian Crosby is a film composer and musician, formerly of Bell X1, who has lived in Berlin for the past two years. “These are a few of my favourite eating spots in and round Kreuzberg, where I have my studio. Kreuzberg is a super area to work in, full of a great crosssection of people and things going on. Never a dull moment! CAlle ikos (Köpenicker Strasse 159, 0049 30 2180 7269; ikos-imkreuzbergerosten.de) This place doesn’t look much from the outside but don’t let that put you off. Previously an old-school Berlin kneipe bar serving really spectacular French food prepared with love and attention – a very reasonably priced top shelf. Chez MiChel (Adalbert Strasse 83, 0049 30 2084 5507; chezmichel-berlin.de) This casual French bistro is always packed to the gills. And rightly so; you can’t do better than their steak frites for €10 and be sure to try one of their outstanding desserts. MAnuelA TApAs (FriedelStrasse 34; manuelatapas.com) With its cosy kitsch interior and freshly prepared Spanish food, this place is a great all rounder. With the arrival of our first son before Christmas, I have a newfound appreciation for just how accommodating Berlin restaurants are for young ones, this place being right up the top of

which, as the name suggests, is situated in a converted bunker in Mitte. This excellent collection of contemporary art is curated by Karen and Christian Boros (who, fittingly, holds a PhD thesis in Bond villains). As with Berlin galleries, the story of the space is at least as interesting as the work contained within. Initially built as a shelter for civilians in World War Two, the Boros Bunker has since been used as prison, fetish club, nightclub and now holds work by contemporary artists including Olafur Eliasson. As the non-consumerist waitress would proudly attest, shops in Berlin are closed on Sunday, and to the north of Mitte, Prenzlauer 74 |

april/may 2012

Artwork at Checkpoint Charlie.

the list with their super kids room out the back. Our Spanish friend verifies this is the real deal! MusAshi sushi (Kottbusser Damm 102) This tiny hole-in-the-wall joint serves some of the best sushi in town. Enough said. MArkThAlle (Eisenbahnstrasse 42/43, Pücklerstrasse 34, 00 49 30 617 5502; weltrestaurant-markthalle. de) Great schnitzel and apple strudel in a bright and airy wood paneled room, lovely for a wintery Sunday lunch. As for music, the Berliner philhArMoniker (Herbert-vonKarajan-Strasse 1, 0049 30 2548 8999; Berliner-philharmoniker.de) is well worth a visit for its architecture alone. If you can’t manage to get a ticket for an evening performance, then check out the free lunchtime gigs they host every Tuesday in the foyer. sChokolAden (Ackerstrasse 169/170, 0049 30 282 6527; schokoladen-mitte.de) is a pretty happening down and dirty music club. Also they have a strict curfew which means the gigs start on time (a rarity in Berlin!).” briancrosby.com

Berg is a great neighbourhood to while away a lazy Sunday afternoon. It is home to American ex-pats piloting baby strollers to brunch. If the farmers’ market in the beautiful cobbled streets around Kollwitzplatz represents End Times of gentrification to old school Berliners, it’s also a rather pleasant afternoon out. The brunch buffet at nearby Russian restaurant Pasternak (Knaackstrasse 22/24, 0049 30 441 3399, restaurantpasternak.de) is a must if you can get a table; afterwards, browse through antiques and ephemera at the flea market in Arkonaplatz. South of the Spree, working artists, students and hipsters share the neighbourhood of Kreuzberg with Turkish families. By night, this neighbourhood has a lot to offer in the way of bars and terrific food. After drinks at the Ankerklause right on the canal (Kottbusser Damm 104), or at the wonderful Bei Schlawinchen (Schönleinstrasse 34), it’s worth making a pilgrimage to the birthplace of the doner kebab at Hasir (U-Bahn stop Kotbusser Tor), or to an un-remarkable rotisserie chicken shack called Hühnerhaus, right at the entrance to Görlitzer

Park, for the best chicken ever rotisseried. Judging by the everpresent fleet of lingering squad cars outside, Berlin’s finest concur. During the day, during a stroll through Görlitzer Park in Kreuzberg, one might hear the distant thud of techno drift across the Spree from nearby Friedrichshain. There, a six-storey industrial warehouse called Berghain (Am Wriezener Bahnhof, 0049 30 2936 0210, berghain. de) lays decent claim to being the world’s greatest techno club. If you’re not inside dancing and instead are ambling through Görlitzer Park, continue on to Treptower Park, where a series of enormous friezes commemorates the 80,000 Russians killed in the battle of Berlin which ended in 1945. The main statue depicts a Soviet soldier holding a child and stamping on a swastika. Art, history, banging tunes and sylvan meadows – nowhere better embodies the conflict within Berlin’s narrative. John Butler’s novel, The Tenderloin, will be published in paperback by Picador in May, £7.99. John tweets at @oneofmanyjbs

Aer lingus flies daily from Dublin to Berlin.


Alan Foley, Artistic Director CORK CITY BALLET


BA L LET Cork City Ballet isn’t just a company. It’s a collaboration of dedicated, passionate people who come together to make sure that our commitment to the best in dance is upheld and available for all to enjoy. Our aim is to stay true to our unique vision of live performance.

“In Business and in Dance, the Right Partner is Everything” Alan Foley, Artistic Director

2012 marks the Centenary of one of the most iconic figures in irish ballet, dr. Joan denise moriarty. To celebrate this, Cork City Ballet presents a new production of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece,

The Sleeping Beauty.

We need your help To make This happen WE ARE LOOKING FOR A SPONSOR FOR THIS PRODUCTION. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PLAY YOUR PART IN THE SLEEPING BEAUTY CONTACT US TO SEE IF WE’RE THE PERFECT PARTNER FOR YOU! Cork City Ballet one of Ireland’s premier ballet companies, sustains a vital part of the country’s cultural heritage. The company embraces the grand traditions of dance, from full-length story ballets to abstract modern pieces maintaining an unwavering commitment to artistry and excellence in dance.

with a partnership The result of ned et is a heighte Cork City Ball a ity in front of level of visibil ing market. highly discern

For more information on how you can help support the work of Cork City Ballet, please contact Colette mcnamee at 086 3697207, or via email at col.mcnamee@gmail.com




Photo by John Midgley

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 PIAZZA BRÀ Sitting outside one of the bars, you can enjoy a drink and take in the Roman ARENA and the public gardens as the locals go about their business. Make sure to get a ticket for the Arena during the world-famous summer opera season. Hire a cushion for comfort and spend a magical, balmy evening sitting on the steps in the hushed silence as the orchestra and singers weave their spell.

 VIA MAZZINI This is the main shopping area, heaving with top class Italian merchandise, along with Via Cappello, where you will find JULIET'S HOUSE, a pilgrimage site for lovers the world over. Remember to rub the right breast on the bronze statue to have good luck in love!

An Insider’s Guide to


Get la mattonella (wafer with vanilla, chocolate and amaretto) or any of the delicious ice-cream specialities from the much-loved GELATERIA SAVOIA under the arches of Via Roma. There’s a vast selection, in either cone or cup.

A pilgrimage site for lovers the world over, Verona is a satisfies destination that satisfi es all the senses. Irishman and local Mark Weston shares his must sees.  The ANTICA BOTTEGA DEL VINO wine bar and restaurant, in Via Scudo di Francia, a haunt of writers and poets, was voted one of the top ten in Italy. Order the risotto with Amarone – you won’t regret it!

 HOTEL TORCOLO is a family-run hotel in the historic centre of Verona, a stone's throw from the Arena and all the main sights. The owners are helpful and friendly and will book restaurants as well as tickets for the opera and Lake Garda. (Rooms from €70pps; hoteltorcolo.it)


Take a day trip to the beaches of nearby LAKE GARDA. If you have children and can cope with the queues, don't miss the theme park GARDALAND for a fun day out. (gardaland.it)

Mark Weston, originally from Dublin, lives with his wife Simonetta, and a dog called Charlie, in Verona where they are always discovering new restaurants, bars, cafes and shops in which to spend their free time. When he isn’t enjoying all that the Italian lifestyle and weather has to offer, he is running The English Camp study holidays in Italy and teaching in primary and secondary schools. He also organises programmes in Ireland for students and adults (theenglishcamp.com).


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 PIAZZA DELLE ERBE is the most popular and picturesque square in Verona. Enjoy the evening atmosphere while sipping an aperitivo with the locals and don’t forget to climb to the top of the TORRE DEI LAMBERTI for the spectacular view.

 Go across the Ponte Pietra and pass the Roman theatre, where the Shakespearian festival is held in summer. Head 15 minutes up the hill for the breathtaking view of the city from RE TEODORICO.

 Drop in to CAFFÈ TUBINO, in Corso Portoni Borsari, where they say you get the best coffee in Verona, and order one of their special coffees, il Maronito or il Marocchino Bianco, or choose from 120 different types of tea. It’s really small so you may not manage to sit down.

 The VERONA HORSE FAIR (November 6-9) has 3,000 horses, representing more than 60 breeds, and hundreds of events, exhibitions and competitions. A must for all horse lovers. (fieracavalli.it)

 VINITALY, at the end of March each year, is the biggest international wine and spirits exhibition in the world and an opportunity to taste the region’s most famous wines, such as Valpolicella, Amarone and Recioto. (vinitaly.com)

 RISTORANTE GREPPIA in Vicolo Samaritana, a cosy restaurant nestled in one of the back streets in the centre of Verona, is renowned for its homemade pasta and a great place to go with a group of friends.

off on June 22 and includes MAKE A DATE The 90th Verona Opera Festival kicks of course, the story of staropen-air performances of Don Giovanni, Carmen and, tte; runs to September 2, arena.it crossed lovers and Verona city natives, Romeo and Julie 78 |


Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Verona on Wed and Sat.


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All Sewn Up

What happens when you combine one of the greatest countries known for crafts with an international community of quilters? Well, if things go as planned, it will be the first annual International Quilt Festival of Ireland.


his summer, from June 8-10, the NUI Galway campus will be turned into a specially laid-out “Quilter’s Village”, with redesigned buildings, classrooms and restaurants offering such venues as Fat Quarter’s Chocolate Shop, the Wicked Thimble Pub, the Town Hall, the Round Robin Restaurant, a Craft Centre, Celtic Tea Room and a high-end restaurant called Stash. According to Managing Director, Jim West, this is the first time anything like this has ever been created on a grand scale. “As you walk around the village, visitors will run into our very charming mayor, hear the town crier in our Quilter’s Square announcing activities and events taking place throughout the day, and they will even see Molly Malone as she walks around pushing her cart and selling fabric fat quarters,” said West. And no quilt festival would be complete without quilts. There will be 14 uniquely designed quilt exhibits offering hundreds of beautifully-designed quilts from all over the world. Each exhibit is designed to activate all the senses, so each is unusual and unique in its layout. Along with the quilts, there are also internationally-known celebrity teachers who will be teaching hands-on quilt classes to visiting quilters. This festival is offering two very special elements that the international quilting community has never seen before. The first is a complete handson crafts programme, which includes

traditional Irish crafts, from lace-making and painting to felt-making and pottery. There is even an overnight trip to the Aran Islands for a special knitting workshop! The second special feature is a non-quilter’s activity programme for those who are not interested in quilting. These activities include everything from fishing and golfing, to cycling and pub-crawls. And no visit to Galway and the West of Ireland would be complete without offering some of the most incredible sightseeing and day trips throughout the region. Kylemore Abbey and Gardens, the Cliffs of Moher, a boat ride on Lough Corrib and Ashford Castle, Brigit’s Garden, the Burren and Connemara, are all special places visitors won’t want to miss. The opening ceremony takes place on Thursday evening, June 7 at the Galway Radisson Blu Hotel, where over 500 people will attend the Grand Reception. With an anticipated 5,000 quilters from all over the world expected to attend, the first annual International Quilt Festival of Ireland puts Ireland in the spotlight and presents sew many opportunities.

The International Quilt Festival of Ireland runs from June 8–10 at NUI Galway. For more information, visit the website www.IQFOI.com april/may 2012

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IN S R U O H 8 4

Stockholm With designer bars, topnotch restaurants and a city archipelago to explore on foot or by bike, Stockholm is ideal for a weekend break. Philip O’Connor reports.


uch to the chagrin of some of its Nordic neighbours, Stockholm lays claim to being the capital of Scandinavia. But it is a claim that has some basis in fact. Built on 14 islands at the mouth of Lake Mälaren, it is a city surrounded by water; each island makes up its own little district, with its own distinct character. So it’s the perfect place for the weekender to explore.

SLEEP AT …. A short walk from the airport terminal, the Jumbo Hotel/Hostel is one of the coolest places in the world to stay. The owners have converted an old Boeing 747 into 27 rooms, with the cockpit suite offering a panoramic view of the airport. With beds from just €50 per person per night, it’s well within most budgets. (0046 859 360 400, jumbostay.se) If you prefer boats to planes,

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don’t worry – the crafty Swedish designers have that covered too. The Red Boat in the city centre offers excellent budget accommodation in beautiful surroundings. For those willing to splash out, the luxurious Captain’s Suite can be booked from €160 per night. (Södermälarstrand Kajplats 10, 0046 8644 4385, theredboat.com) Situated on the winding street of Västerlångatan in the

heart of the Old Town, The Lord Nelson claims to be Sweden’s narrowest hotel. This homely establishment is a stone’s throw from the Royal Palace and within walking distance of many of the major tourist attractions. Rooms start at €101 (0046 850 640 120, thecollectorshotels.se) If you want to be in the heart of it, try the Scandic Hotel Anglais in Stureplan, at the centre of Stockholm’s

nightlife and upmarket shopping district. It is a perfect location for those who want to experience the better drinking and dining spots in Stockholm. Rooms from €180. (Humlegårdsgatan 23, 0046 851 734 000, scandichotels.com) Above left, berths aboard the Jumbo Hostel, an old Boeing 747, and above right, stay at the heart of things at the Scandic Hotel Anglais. Right, meatlovers’ paradise, Restaurant AG.

Far left, island life – Stockholm is surrounded by water and, left, at Skansen, a zoo and open-air museum, you can watch old crafts still being made and, below left, Spin Mug Collection by Marie-Louise Hellgren – Swedish design is worth hunting down.

DON’T MISS ... The stunning Vasa Museum, on the island of Djurgården, is Scandinavia’s most-visited, as tourists flock to see the salvaged wreck of a 17th-century ship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628, weighed down by 64 cannons and some bad engineering decisions. (Galärvarvsvägen 14, 0046 851 954 800, vasamuseet.se) A stone’s throw away is Skansen, Stockholm’s only zoo. Visitors can also learn about the living conditions in rural Sweden two centuries ago from personnel in traditional dress, and there are special exhibitions detailing the lives of the Sami people in the harsh northern climate. (0046 8442 8000, skansen.se)

Biblioteksgatan is paradise for the fashionista, where some of the biggest names in fashion rub shoulders with local labels of high renown. Those looking for something a little less mainstream would be well advised to head over to the SoFo district on Söder, where small, backstreet retailers stock some of the most cutting-edge clothes around. For great swedish design – and mementos – head to Design House Stockholm (Smålandsgatan 16, designhousestockholm.com) Kulturhuset, beside Sergels Torg, EAT AND DRINK AT ... Restaurang AG is a meat-lovers’ paradise – as you enter the dining room you’re met by a glass-fronted refrigerator where sides of the finest beef from Sweden, Scotland and the US are hung to age. Head chef and co-owner Johan Jureskog claims to have the best steaks in Sweden, and many Stockholmers seem to agree. (Kronobergsgatan 37, 0046 841 068 100, restaurangag.se) Cantineros is a brand-new bar in the Old Town (Gamla Stan). Inspired by Cuban rum culture, it features an extensively stocked rum bar, from which the skilled bartenders would be more than happy to knock you up a taste of Latin America. (Kornhamnstorg 53, cantineros.se) Many would argue that pub culture in Sweden didn’t really exist until The Dubliner opened its doors back in 1992. With live music, wholesome food, friendly staff and all the sport you can possibly watch, it remains a firm favourite. (Holländargatan 1, 0046 8679 7707, dubliner.se/ stockholm/pub) Take a trip to Ekstedt’s restaurant and you could be forgiven for thinking that Sweden didn’t have a smoking ban

is Stockholm’s mecca for the arts and a perfect plan B for a rainy day. With thousands of square metres of exhibition and performance space, there is something for all artistic tastes and a café with panoramic views of the city occupies the top floor. (0046 850 831 508, en.kulturhusetstockholm.se) A short boat trip from the city, the island of Stora Fjäderholmen is home to cafés, restaurants, craftspeople and museums detailing archipelago life. There is also the storehouse for Mackmyra, one of Sweden’s only domestic whiskys. (fjaderholmarna.se)

at all. But the smoke in this fabled new eatery isn’t from tobacco; instead, it comes from a fire pit in the kitchen over which much of the menu is prepared. Drawing on cooking methods from the Basque country and inspired by ideas from all over the world, owner Niklas Ekstedt’s ambition is to pass on his knowledge of what he calls “the last of the handcrafts”. (0046 8611 1210, niklasekstedt.se) For a quick bite to eat on the go, get down to the bustling Hötorgshallen, in the city centre. Downstairs you’ll find a selection of shops and restaurants offering everything from kebabs to Swedish dishes such as meatballs with lingonberry jam and mashed potatoes. The island of Söder is a bohemian paradise of small shops, bars and cafés. Kvarnen is a traditional beer hall and a great place to start – or finish – your nights on the town. (Tjärhovsgatan 4, 0046 8643 0380, kvarnen.com) Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Stockholm, four times a week.


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The very first Aer Lingus flight took place back in 1936, just over 75 years ago. To celebrate, author Joseph O’Connor was asked to write a commemorative piece. Here, we publish the final chapter, along with their author’s introduction.


hen I was asked to write a text that would commemorate the 75th anniversary of Aer Lingus’s first flight, I began to think about Ireland in May 1936, the month in which that inaugural journey took place. The country of my grandparents’ youth was a poor one, only recently founded, facing immense challenges, yet its cultural traditions had survived and there was optimism that this small new democracy might one day be a place of freedoms. In our old literature, in our ballads and songs, in our poetry and legends, the imagery of flight appeared with striking frequency; a touching testament to the hopes

of an island people who, as Yeats said, “have gone about the world like wind”. It struck me as remarkable that a nation which not very long previously had been engaged in violent conflict and Civil War had progressed so quickly to establishing an airline. It also seemed to me that the story of Aer Lingus closely tracked the story of independent Ireland, sometimes in counterpoint, sometimes in parallel. We have long been a migrant people – we still are, today – and every flight is an anthology, a collection of stories, some happy, some poignant, all our own. So, rather than write a fact-laden article studded with statistics

and the names of aircraft, I asked if I could approach the commemorative piece as a series of verse-lyrics that might attempt to record the unique and indefinable aura that Irish people feel Aer Lingus has. “Airspace” was the result. I wrote it between Christmas 2010 and January of 2011, a month in which severe snow cut us off from the world for a while. In a small way, that separation reminded me of the longing we feel for other lands, other dreams, of the connections that Aer Lingus has existed to serve. I hope you enjoy reading the piece. Joseph O’Connor


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Joseph o’connor

VIII Night flight to London – 27 May, 2011 Nearly time to go. The final call made. Rain on the windows of Departures tonight. The last flight to Heathrow, Passengers weary, Queuing with coffee-cups, Holdalls and suit-bags. Murmuring quiet into mobiles. The quickly grabbed magazines. Airside was closing. Paperbacks bought But not really wanted. Time-passers. Flight-friends. Skylines. iPods clamped to exhausted ears, And a symphony of cellophane sandwiches. Outside on the tarmac, The airbus awaits, Shamrock on its tailfin, Saint’s name on its cockpit. Small reassurances, Familiarity of symbols. Welcome as the nod of a trusted old friend To whom there is no need to speak. She knows you are weary. Feel at home, she smiles gently. Tar isteach. Sit down. Close your belt like a good man. I’ve a place for you here. Only waiting for clearance. Don’t feel that you have to explain. We have travelled together Down all the long days So that you are me, And I you, she says. And like spouses or siblings, We sometimes fight, And nobody’s perfect – But we’re flying tonight. We pack our stories, our baggage, Into overhead containers. (We all have baggage. Even an airline has baggage. But there is no need to carry it now.) The long day done. The Irish shadows lengthening. Tomorrow, there will be time for all the analyses. The roads not taken, The plans deferred. Tonight, you are in the arms of someone you know, A long-time companion,

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There since your childhood. Tonight, you are going to fly. The squat doors are closed. You taxi from the terminal Heavily through the rain, Like a mountain on wheels In an ancestor’s dream Of the coming days of Ireland When wonders and marvels will be possible. Fluorescent lights of Departures Bleeding through the raindrops As the runway is reached. And you pause. A man across the aisle Makes the sign of the cross. A couple hold hands, A baby is gurgling. The old nun beside you Closes eyes like the Buddha. A moment of celestial stillness. And the rumble begins, In the base of your spine, Elemental, Like weather On the Cliffs of Moher in wintertime, Like Ronnie Drew’s voice Thundering of Kilburn, Or a bodhrán whopped by a goddess. How does it happen? Can such things be possible? The mountain starts to move, Heavily, ponderous, A giantess advancing Through battlements of rainfall, And the alleluia of roaring engines. And the luggage bins rattling,

And a troop of students laughing, And the couple stroke the curls Of the gurgling, pink baby, As the front tyres raise, Wheelying through the darkness Like a reared up-stallion of propulsion. Poised at the point Where the earth rhymes with hope, Navigation lights blink And you leave the earth of Ireland That has seen so much, That knows so much, That has forgotten so much out of pity. Below you, the country is sleepy in darkness, Bracelets of motorways, Trucks appear tiny, The city a constellation of unexplored stars, Every bedsit and mansion a novel in light, As you, to the earthbound, are now become a story, Overture to the blackness of the Irish Sea, As you climb the impossible night. I was there when you were lonely. When you needed to fly. When you needed to laugh When you needed to cry. When you needed to work. When you just felt wild. I flew your parents; I will fly your child.

Tonight, you are in the arms of someone you know, A long-time companion, There since your childhood. Tonight, you are going to fly.

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WelcomeAboard Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ...

For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. DEVICES PERMITTED ✔ AT ANY TIME: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DEVICES PERMITTED IN FLIGHT BUT NOT DURING TAXI/TAKE-OFF/ INITIAL CLIMB/APPROACH LANDING: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

90 |


selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service

News, music and movies

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamhmheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosing to fly plea and able fort com a e hav you e hop We h maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus. raib go s agu t aga ach mh nea tait h dac Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compor

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✔ CEADAITHE I GCÓNAÍ: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.


BHFUIL CEADAITHE LE LINN DON EITLEÁN BHEITH AG GLUAISEACHT AR TALAMH/AG ÉIRÍ DE THALAMH/ AG TABHAIRT FAOIN DREAPADH TOSAIGH/ AG DÍRIÚ AR THUIRLINGT/ AG TUIRLINGT: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLÉASANNA A BHFUIL ✘ COSC IOMLÁN ORTHU: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. TOBAC De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.


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Aer Lingus tAkes new cADet piLots unDer its wings

In January, Aer Lingus celebrated the arrival of 20 new cadet pilots. It is over a decade since the airline launched a cadet programme so it was an occasion filled with excitement and anticipation. The group of recruits, made up of 17 men and three women, hails from the Republic of Ireland, Northern Ireland and Great Britain. The airline received an overwhelming response with over 2,000 applications for the Aer Lingus Cadet Pilot Training programme. The cadets will undergo a 14-month training programme with FTEJerez, the flight training provider of cadet pilots, based in Jerez, Spain. The training will include five months of ground school followed by basic flying on single and then multi engine aircraft. The cadets will return to Aer Lingus in early summer 2013 to complete further training including an airline transition course, simulator and safety training. Following the successful completion, the cadets will receive their wings and commence flying the airline’s fleet of Airbus 320 aircraft. Pictured left, Graeme McDowell, with the Darcy family and Aer Lingus cabin crew Neasa Arnold and Kelly Ann McConville. The family were one of seven families travelling on a trip of a lifetime to Orlando. The children are cardiac patients of Our Ladies Children’s Hospital in Crumlin, supported by the G-Mac foundation in partnership with Aer Lingus.


= the rise in revenue for Aer Lingus in 2011 with a profit of €49.1m

350, 000 downloads for Aer Lingus mobile App Since the launch of the Aer Lingus Mobile App last June, there has been over 350,000 downloads. The rollout of mobile check-in has been on a phased basis since its launch last June. Mobile checkin is now available on all routes to the UK and Europe from Dublin, to and from all UK airports from Shannon, to and from all UK and European airports from Belfast, from London Heathrow and

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Gatwick to all Irish airports and from Brussels to Cork. We have seen a rapid increase in the number of customers availing of mobile check-in since its expansion. Customers are also using the App to check their flight status, schedules and fare information. The App allows customers the extra flexibility to interact with Aer Lingus while on the move.


Aer Lingus flights will operate from Dublin Airport this summer.


Aer Lingus launches Dublin and Cork schedule for summer 2012

dublin’s Bernard Brogan and eamonn fennell kickstart the summer 2012 schedule – pictured with Aer Lingus staff, edel staunton, left, and irene ryan, right.

Aer Lingus recently launched its extensive schedule for summer 2012 which is packed with exciting new routes and increased frequencies on many of the old favourite destinations. This summer, customers flying with Aer Lingus from Dublin will be spoiled for choice with fantastic new routes, Verona and Stockholm and holiday favourites; Alicante, Nice, Paris, Lanzarote, Ibiza, Dubrovnich and Tenerife, to name but a few. Those preferring to travel from Cork now have 84 flights per week to 14 destinations to choose from, including Barcelona, Faro, Malaga, Rome, Paris and the brand new three times weekly service to Brussels. Aer Lingus continues to offer great value and excellent service including advance seat selection, tailored fare options for your individual needs and a mobile App for Aer Lingus information while you’re on the move. For a small fee, customers can also avail of lounge access. Experience the peace and quiet of the brand new refurbished lounges in Dublin and London Heathrow Airports.

Aer Lingus crew tAke pride of pLAce on the red cArpet Aer Lingus was one of the co-sponsors of the Jameson Dublin International Film Festival. The premiere of Irish-made movie Albert Nobbs was the high point of an Aer Lingus Gala Evening on Saturday, February 18. Invited Aer Lingus customers were treated to the gala viewing of the movie and a Q & A discussion with Hollywood actress Glenn Close, who starred in and produced the movie, her performance securing her an Oscar nomination. Ms Close was one of the many Hollywood stars who chose to fly Aer Lingus to attend the festival. On the gala evening, Aer Lingus cabin crew wowed the movie-goers and paparazzi with their retro uniform style. from left to right, Aer Lingus cabin crew orla harnett, Muriel cooke, donna wright and erika kelly sporting past and present uniforms to celebrate the special Aer Lingus sponsored screening of the irish premiere of Albert Nobbs at the savoy cinema dublin, saturday, february 18.

check-in zone Families with young children can now enjoy the convenience of a designated and can now drop off their buggy, car seat or travel cot and go. APRIL/MAY 2012

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FLIGHTS TO THE US From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; from Madrid to Washington. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.


The Descendants




Family / Drama / Adventure (PG) 126 minutes

Drama (PG 13) 133 minutes

Academy Award-winning movie from filmmaker Alexander Payne, The Descendants is a sometimes humorous, sometimes tragic journey for Matt King, an indifferent husband and father of two girls, who is forced to re-examine his past and embrace his future when his wife suffers a boating accident. The event leads to a rapprochement with his young daughters while Matt wrestles with a decision to sell the family’s land handed down from Hawaiian royalty and missionaries. This Oscar winner is also a Golden Globe winner for Best Picture (Drama) and Best Actor – George Clooney.

Hugo, director Martin Scorsese’s lavishly staged fantasy set in 1930s Paris is a reminder of the importance of film preservation, and won five Oscars at this year’s Academy Awards. Based on the award-winning New York Times best-seller, Hugo is the astonishing adventure of a resourceful twelve-year old boy who lives in the walls of a busy Paris train station. His survival depends on secrets and anonymity. His quest to unlock a secret left to him by his father will transform Hugo and all those around him to reveal a safe and loving place he can call home.

The IMF is shut down when it’s implicated in a global terrorist bombing plot. The President initiates ‘Ghost Protocol’ and Ethan and his rogue new team must go undercover to clear their organization’s name. You have never seen a mission grittier and more intense than this. Left without any resources or backup, Ethan must find a way to clear his agency’s name and prevent another attack. To complicate matters further, Ethan is forced to embark on this mission with a team of fellow IMF fugitives whose personal motives he does not fully know.

STARS George Clooney, Judy Greer, Beau Bridges DIRECTOR Alexander Payne

STARS Christopher Lee, Sacha Baron Cohen, Ben Kingsley, Jude Law, Emily Mortimer DIRECTOR Martin Scorsese

Comedy / Drama (R) 115 minutes


Mission Impossible: Ghost protocol

STARS Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner, Simon Pegg, Paula Patton, Ving Rhames, Josh Holloway, Tom Wilkinson DIRECTOR Brad Bird

More Movies On Demand


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FLIGHTS FROM THE US From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; from Washington to Madrid. Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.


The Artist




French writer-director Michel Hazanavicius’s affectionate ode to the late-silent and early sound eras in Hollywood won five Academy Awards, including Best Actor for Jean Dujardin, Best Director and the ultimate accolade of Best Picture. Set in Hollywood in 1927, George Valentin is a silent movie idol. Valentin meets Peppy, an aspiring actress and the two are attracted to each other. The advent of the talkies will sound the death knell for his career. For Peppy it seems the sky’s the limit and major movie stardom awaits. The Artist tells the story of their interlinked destinies.

Oscar nominated War Horse is set against a sweeping canvas of rural England and Europe during the First World War, and marks the remarkable friendship between a horse named Joey and a young man who tames and trains him. When they are forcefully parted, the film follows the extraordinary journey of the horse as he moves through the war, changing and inspiring the lives of all those he meets. The First World War is experienced through the journey of this horse – in an odyssey of joy and sorrow, passionate friendship and high adventure.

The Iron Lady is a film about power and the price one pays for it, a story that is both unique and universal. Meryl Streep gives a surprising and intimate portrait of Margaret Thatcher, the first and only female Prime Minister of the UK. One of the 20th century’s most famous and influential women, she came from nowhere to smash through barriers of gender and class to be heard in a male-dominated world. Meryl Streep has won her third Academy Award for her depiction as Thatcher as well as the Golden Globe and a BAFTA.

STARS Jean Dujardin, Bérénice Bejo and John Goodman DIREcToR Michel Hazanavicius

STARS Jeremy Irvine, Emily Watson, Peter Mullan DIREcToR Steven Spielberg

Comedy / Romance (PG 13 ) 100 minutes

Drama / History/ War (PG 13) 146 minutes

Drama (PG 13) 105 minutes

The Iron Lady

STARS Meryl Streep, Jim Broadbent, Roger Allam, Richard E. Grant, Olivia Colman DIREcToR Phyllida Lloyd

More Movies On Demand

War Horse

SHERLocK HoLMES: A GAME oF SHADoWS Robert Downey Jr. J.EDGAR Leonardo di Caprio cARNAGE Kate Winslet TWILIGHT SAGA: BREAKING DAWN PART 1 Robert Pattinson ToWER HEIST Eddie Murphy MAcHINE GUN PREAcHER Gerard Butler THE SITTER Jonah Hill DIRTY GIRL

Milla Jovovich SEVEN DAYS IN UToPIA Robert Duvall I’M STILL HERE Joaquin Phoenix THE SoN oF No oNE Al Pacino THE MUPPETS Amy Adams GARFIELDS PET FoRcE Frank Welker YoGI BEAR Justin Timberlake cATS AND DoGS: THE REVENGE oF KITTY GALoRE Bette Midler

april/may 2012

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Television On Demand TV allows you to control your TV content and select the most anticipated shows on TV. Brand new COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS features Absolutely Fabulous, Two and A Half Men and New Girl, Modern Family as well as How I Met Your Mother, Nurse Jackie, Family Guy and The Simpsons. From HBO watch out for Enlightened starring Laura Dern and Classic Comedy takes in Sex and the City and Cheers. There is brand new DRAMA in Homeland – an intriguing drama with an immensely talented cast, this gripping thriller stars Claire Danes, in fact “Showtime’s edgy, edge-of-your-seat series, is, bar none, the best thriller on American TV” (New York Post).Also featured is Boss starring Kelsey Grammer. The series follows Tom Kane, the mayor of Chicago, who has recently been diagnosed with a degenerative neurological disorder. Other award-winning Drama available OnDemand includes The Good Wife, Mad Men and two episodes of In Treatment starring Gabriel Byrne in the role of his life. It’s time to fasten your seat belts for the eighth – and final – season of Entourage! The HBO Emmy and Golden Globe award-


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winning hit comedy is executive produced by Mark Wahlberg and takes a look at the life of Vince Chase, a hot young actor in Hollywood and the entourage he has brought with him from Queens, New York. Available are the first eight episodes of Season 8. Game of Thrones is another HBO triumph and available On-Demand is the final eight episodes (Season 1) of Game of Thrones. This ambitious and visually stunning new series is set in a quasi-medieval world with a mythic history riddled with conflict. Described by Newsday as “the bestwritten TV show of the year” and by the Los Angeles Times as “a great and thundering series … epic television.” Don’t miss the final six episodes of the mini-series The Kennedys, the story of the most fabled and legendary political family in American history. The Emmy-winning television mini-series chronicles the lives of the famous US family. It features a stellar cast including Greg Kinnear, Katie Holmes, Barry Pepper and Tom Wilkinson. Available On-Demand is eight episodes from Season 1 of The Borgias – the saga of a crime family set in Italy in 1492. Starring Jeremy Irons, The Borgias was created and executive produced by renowned Irish director Neil Jordan. This first-class medley of Drama TV also takes in the final five episodes from Season 1 of Blue Bloods starring Tom Selleck. Created by The Sopranos alumni Mitchell Burgess and Robin Green, Blue Bloods is a solid, character-driven, multi-story serial drama. Selleck’s



Game of Thrones character serves as the anchor for four generations of police officers. TEENS onboard can enjoy the multi award-winning Glee and, new from Disney, Shake It Up. Kids can look forward to Barney and Friends, Fireman Sam, Pingu, Ben and Izzy and Ballybraddan. LIFESTYLE, SPORT AND MUSIC HIGHLIGHTS include HSBC Golfing World, 24/7 Flyers/ Rangers Road to the NHL Winter Classic, The Show, Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations, America’s Next Top Model, Videofashion Daily, Chefs Around the World, Vine Talk, Phil Spencer: Secret Agent, Horizons, Live From Abbey Road, Seven Ages of Rock, Other Voices in NYC. DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS take in Megafactories (Coca Cola), Ancient Secrets, Animal Atlas, Attenborough’s Journey, Inside The Actors Studio (Ricky Gervais) and the awe-inspiring Human Planet as well as a Movie Talk special on Gabriel Byrne.



Fitzpatrick Hotels

Chart Hits

Phantom 105.2

The Big 10

This is a contemporary easylistening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC.

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the latest pop hits. From Brit award-winners that includes Rihanna, X Factor stars One Direction, Rebecca Ferguson and Cher Lloyd to true global superstars – Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Katy Perry as well as newcomer Jessie J and oh so much more, this show is a thrilling mix of the most recent chart sounds.

Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the home of the very best music played on any Irish radio station. Phantom is committed to playing brand new music, Indie Rock but really we will play all genres of music – if it’s a great track, we will play it. Oh, we also like having a bit of craic along the way so why not try something different and tune into Phantom 105.2 – we promise you won’t be disappointed! We are Phantom – music that rocks!

The Big 10 on 98FM features ten songs with a connection. Tune into the countdown every Sunday morning at 10am as we countdown The Big 10, each week a different set of songs are featured each with a different connection. Presented Darragh O’Dea of Dublin’s 98 FM, this special show for Aer Lingus, looks at The Big 10 Irish songs of all time.

Best Hits of 2011 Take a recent trip down memory lane in this retrospective of the most popular hits from 2011. Best Hits of 2011 features massive hits including the biggestselling artist of the year, Adele, as well as other instantly recognisable songs from Maroon 5, Britney Spears, Ed Sheeran, Coldplay, Chris Brown, Bruno Mars and more.

Jazz Alley

Grace Notes

La Stupenda

Ellen Cranitch takes a look back at some of the recordings from the traditional music world that were released in 2011. Grace Notes includes music from some seasoned old hands, as well as new kids on the block. This is a nostalgic journey for lovers of traditional music as well as newcomers to the genre and features the finest traditional recordings from last year.

Presented by Liz Nolan of RTÉ Lyric FM, La Stupenda is a commemorative programme on the life and work of one of the great divas of the 20th century, the Australian Joan Sutherland. This Lyric Feature charts the beloved Dame’s long and illustrious career with the music which made her famous and the recollections of her colleagues from the opera world.

2011 marked both the 40th anniversary and 110th birthday of the great Louis Armstrong. In this Jazz Alley special Donald Helme takes the opportunity to collect his thoughts and speaks with renowned jazz expert Dan Morgenstern and jazz critic and author of Satchmo – The Genius of Louis Armstrong, Gary Giddins. In this fascinating show Helme and guests reflect on the life and achievements of the greatest and most popular jazz musician of all time.

april/may 2012

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Soul Plane Sit back, unwind and while away your time with Soul Plane; a soothing and sublime selection of mellow grooves and laid-back songs. This impressive repertoire of relaxing Soul classics features legendary artists such as Barry White, The Drifters, Nina Simone, Chic, The Four Tops, Isaac Hayes, Otis Redding and more.

Best of Moncrieff

Aer Guitar

Broadway Favourites

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 531006, email afternoon@newstalk. ie or follow Sean on Twitter @ SeanMoncrieff.

Tune into Aer Guitar presented by Marty Miller to hear some legendary rock classics. You can also hear Marty on Irish radio, weekdays from 2pm on Radio NOVA 100FM, from Dublin to the World! Aer Guitar features seriously addictive guitarbased rock music.

Broadway Favourites may tempt you to visit a Broadway show whilst in New York or indeed provide inspiration to tread the boards yourself. This show really is a moving collection of memorable songs from the world’s most famous Broadway musicals. Tune in to hear hits from Les Misérables, Guys and Dolls, West Side Story and many more. Enjoy!

That Decade – 1950s

That Decade – 1960s

That Decade – 1970s

Copeland Classics

Rock ‘n’ Roll emerged in the mid-1950s as the new cultural movement and as the music of choice for the masses. Elvis Presley was the leading figure of the new sound as he, along with other stars, including Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Fats Domino, Jerry Lee Lewis became household names. Essentially the 1950s gave birth to Rock ‘n’ Roll as we know it today.

The 1960s was a revolutionary decade in terms of fashion, culture and music. This was the decade that saw the explosion of Popular Music and in turn the hit record became a phenomenon that continues to this very day. Artists featured on the show include The Monkees, The Beach Boys, Jackie Wilson, The Animals and The Isley Brothers.

The 1970s witnessed a new dawn in music spanning a range of genres from disco, glam rock to smooth jazz, electronic music and punk. That Decade – 1970s showcases an interesting repertoire of hits from a musically eclectic time. Artists that can be heard include The Pointer Sisters, Santana, Hot Gossip, Heart, Earth Wind and Fire, Mac Davis and many others.

Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to you courtesy of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s designer suits for over 100 years. Louis Copeland and Sons can be found in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin Airport and in Galway on Merchants Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo Boss and Paul Smith – all leading labels are available at their stores. louiscopeland.com.

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FULLY SERVICED OFFICE SUITES CALL ANSWERING – BUSINESS MAILING ADDRESS – OFFICE SHARE – MEETING ROOMS Sandyford Business Centre special offer: 12 months for the price of 8 months* Our monthly licence fee offers an all-inclusive business package starting from €250 per person per month...

*Terms and Conditions Apply

Camden • Citywest • Sandyford

www.premierbusinesscentres.com Ireland: +353 1 6392939 United Kingdom: +44 20 3364 5438 Email: info@premierbusinesscentres.com

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe, and apply a good moisturiser throughout. Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anticlockwise. Bend and straighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce any possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. And remember to move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Reducing the effects of jet-lag

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

To help reduce the effects of travelling and jet-lag before, during and after your flight, we have introduced an audio programme (available on Channel 6), which will play every other hour, offering 60 minutes of soothing and relaxing audio environments. The programme is designed to enhance your physical and mental wellbeing during the flight.

Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Apart from tuning in to the inflight relaxation programme, here are some other simple things that you can do to prepare for your journey. Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities gradually to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will also help to stimulate your circulation.

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows:

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below. AER LINGUS

55cm (22ins)

email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Maximum weight


(Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

43cm (17ins)

(22 lbs)

20cm (8ins)



40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

28cm (11ins)

20cm (8ins)

Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos, overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

Phone? Tablet?

It’s Galaxy Note!



Screen images simulated. ©2012 Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd.

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Cara MagazIne

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Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • Professionals • Intra-company transferees • Investors • Multi-national managers • Interns and trainees

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Germany Berlin

Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens* Hungary Budapest Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples

Rome Venice Verona (new route)

Lithuania Vilnius Morocco Agadir (route will cease 28th April)

The Netherlands Amsterdam Poland Krakow Warsaw

Portugal Faro Lisbon Romania Bucharest Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza* Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela*

Sweden Stockholm (new route)

United Kingdom

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Aberdeen Blackpool Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Southend (commencing

Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Manchester

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

10 May)

* Commencing 1 May ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann APRIL/MAY 2012

| 103




Glasgow BELFAST Knock



Birmingham Amsterdam London Heathrow Bristol Brussels LONDON GATWICK



Paris Munich


Nice Rome

Barcelona Lisbon Alicante Faro



Lanzarote Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife

FROM CORK United Kingdom London Heathrow

Italy Rome Portugal Faro*

104 |

Italy Rome

Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas

Portugal Faro Lisbon

France Nice Paris Rennes* ■

Spain Alicante Barcelona* Malaga

Germany Munich



Belgium Brussels (new route)

Spain Alicante* Barcelona Malaga The Netherlands Amsterdam

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow United Kingdom

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey* Manchester

Ireland Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow United Kingdom

with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann

Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Manchester

* Recommencing 1 May ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann



Chicago New York




Madrid Orlando

To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid FROM DUBLIN



USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York

USA Washington DC


| 105



Calgary Winnipeg

Vancouver Seattle Portland OR


Salt Lake City Denver

Kansas City

Sacramento San Francisco

Las Vegas





Indianapolis Cincinnati Saint Louis Louisville

Long Beach

Los Angeles San Diego



Portland ME BOSTON


Columbus Baltimore WASHINGTON Washington (National) (Dulles) Lexington Richmond Raleigh - Durham Charlotte Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin

Syracuse Rochester

Pittsburgh Burlington


Nashville Burbank

Toronto Buffalo


New Orleans Tampa Fort Myers


Orlando West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale


San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers.

■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: When you arrive from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs Then all you need to do is drop off your bags at the Aer Lingus transfer desk before hopping onto the AirTrain to JetBlue’s Terminal Five for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs. Turn left towards the Aer Lingus transfer desk, where you drop off your bags and then take a short walk to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin, pick up your bags and clear customs before rechecking your bags at the United Airlines Recheck Desk (which is to the right of customs). A nearby escalator takes you to the ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes, to Terminal Five and your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago

O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. ■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

106 |


Aberdeen Edinburgh





Birmingham London (Heathrow)



London (Gatwick)




Dusseldorf Brussels Krakow

Frankfurt Paris Vienna


Geneva Venice

Milan (Linate)


Barcelona Madrid Lisbon Faro

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus                     

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan (Linate) Munich Paris

   

Alicante Malaga

Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional Operated by Aer Arann     

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus  London (Heathrow)  Manchester ■


■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                     

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce

            

Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue       

Baltimore Buffalo Dallas Fort Worth Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville

                 

Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National)  West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA                     

Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans

          

Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento San Diego San Francisco Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada     

Calgary Edmonton Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann APRIL/MAY 2012

| 107



FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2 FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s


Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk


Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:


 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

108 |


London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance


The GPO Dublin

Visit Letters, Lives and Liberty in Dublin’s GPO and uncover the story of the Rising and the Irish Post Office in the place where history was made. General Post Office O’Connell Street Dublin 1 www.anpost.ie/heritage


ASIAN CUISINE City Centre Dundrum Dun Laoghaire Michelin Bib Gourmand

ORDER ONLINE www.mymao.ie with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

5^aYZS` 5Sef^W south king st | blanchardstown bl h d t |d dundrum | cork | belfast

lunch menu €9.95 take out menu available wagamama ireland


Celtic Wave Gold-Plated Pendant Classic Celtic Knots are the focus of this stunning open work wave design pendant which is made in rhodium and gold-plate.

The Knuttel Collection Tea Light Set


Vibrant and unique assorted sets of tea lights, egg cups and spoons along with shot glasses by the internationally renowned Irish artist Graham Knuttel for Tipperary Crystal. There are 5 artworks featured in the sets: Menu, The Terrace, Blue Lagoon, Shark Ahoy and Seven Year Itch. Presented in beautiful gift boxes, this is a unique opportunity to acquire striking and functional items of artwork from one of Ireland’s leading artists.

Glowla Her name is glowla... “her glam make-up kit”. She’s soft, seductive and Havana glam time! Glowla’s portable make-up kit is packed with everything you need for an unbelievably beautiful look! Glide on warm luscious colour with the 5 shade colour palette and pretty pink lip-gloss. It’s sooo good to be glowla!

15-Year Anniversary Eyeshadow Collection

Kit contains: • CORALista coral-pink cheek powder with brush • High beam luminescent complexion enhancer • Moon beam iridescent complexion enhancer • 5 shade shadow palette • BADgal lash mascara • Life on the A List lip gloss • Fluff shadow / Hard angle brush

It’s Urban Decay’s party, and to celebrate we’re launching 15 new eyeshadow shades and only in this kit! With just the right balance of neutrals and brights, darks and lights, the 15-Year Anniversary Palette is both versatile and the UD junkie’s ultimate collection. Inside, the shadow tray pulls out to reveal a compartment that can be used to stash jewellery or whatever else you’re hiding.

Dior Homme Aer Lingus Fun Plane with FREE key-ring Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and flashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.

110 |


Extremely refined, the virile Dior Homme perfectly and singularly blends tradition and modernity. Discover this fragrance, constructed around an unprecedented Tuscan iris accord with a masculine touch.

Britta Sunglasses These women’s sunglasses from Ted Baker are the essential accessory and feature a zip-pull temple, inspired by Ted Baker’s apparel collection. A must-have for the fashion conscious this season. Offering full UVA and UVB protection, these sunglasses come complete with travel case, cleaning cloth and a 1 year guarantee.

Balenciaga L’Essence Balenciaga L’Essence is a leathery violet fragrance, revealing a vibrant trail of contemporary elegance. The violet leaves are set ablaze with warm spices at the top, while the heart becomes more sensual as the amber leathery facets of labdanum warm up the violet to express an asserted femininity. Rock, Sensual, Modern.

Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during April/May.

Sekonda Sports Chronograph Men’s Watch

Lego Private Jet A great new fun model for you to build. The pilot of this small, private jet is ready to take his passenger to new and exciting destinations around the world. Grab your luggage, fasten your seatbelt and get ready for the trip!


gs ...ex tra savin when you f ly

Large men’s sports watch with ivory cream dial, 1 second stopwatch timing up to one hour and 24 hour readout. This watch features a leather strap and is water resistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sekonda Women’s 2 Tone Analogue Dress Watch Featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and stone set case. Water resistant to 50m, i.e. swimproof. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices APRIL/MAY 2012

| 111


The Gift of hope

Aer Lingus cabin crew member Lynsey Glasgow sees charity in action in Zambia.



he hospital outside Mazabuka in Zambia is not much to look at. The doctor visits just once a month. In four or five rooms, the hospital’s one nurse/ midwife and her helpers deal with a population of 8,000 people. Yet miracles are performed in those rooms every day. I was in Mazabuka as an ambassador for UNICEF. Every year, eight Aer Lingus cabin crew are chosen as ambassadors and undertake a field trip to see the organisation’s work at first hand. The tiny hospital in Mazabuka was one of the first in Zambia to be enrolled in Project Mwana, a UNICEF-funded scheme that uses SMS technology to speed up HIV tests for expectant mothers. The project has reduced the wait times for results by over half, and means that treatment can begin much sooner in cases where the results are positive. 112 |


It was in Mazabuka that I met Fridah, 29, and her son Junior, seven months. When Fridah was expecting Junior, she tested positive for HIV. Under the UNICEF scheme, her results were back in two weeks (compared to the usual six or eight) and Fridah was able to start a course of prophylaxis drugs to prevent the spread of HIV to her unborn child. When Junior was born at the hospital, he was tested as soon as possible for HIV and, thankfully, his results were negative. With the help and support of this hospital and the new technology in place, Fridah was still able to breastfeed her newborn son with very little risk. Both mother and baby continue to be very healthy. Although Fridah was devastated when she herself was diagnosed, she is so grateful to the

Top, local UNICEF climate ambassadors with a message for Aer Lingus and passengers. Above, Lynsey Glasgow holds a card with the word that sums up her experience in Zambia. Below, Lynsey talks to Fridah, mother to Junior, in Mazabuka.

centre in Mazabuka that measures could be quickly put in place to ensure her son’s result was negative. Fridah’s was just one of many sad yet hopeful stories we heard on our field trip. Aer Lingus has been supporting UNICEF Ireland for 15 years, and our passengers have raised almost $15 million through emergency appeals and donations of small change on transatlantic flights. Your money has been put to good use in many disaster-hit areas, such as the Philippines, Haiti and the countries of east Africa. The people we met in Zambia were inspiring. Th They ey are proud of their country, their culture and the fact that one of the seven natural wonders of the world – the breathtaking Victoria Falls – lies within its borders. Before returning to Ireland, we joined young UNICEF climate ambassadors to pick up litter in the Victoria Falls National Park. That evening, we That celebrated with the locals as their national football team sailed through semi-final of to the semi-final the African Cup of Nations (they went on final after a to win the final penalty shoot out). And yet, just one hour away, deep in rural Zambia, there are people who do not even know Victoria Falls exists. Their children have never played with a real football, let alone watched their national team on television. The priorities for these people are safe drinking water, food, shelter, access to medical care and keeping their children safe. We – Aer Lingus and you – are helping UNICEF do a wonderful job in Zambia, but there is still so much more to be done. My trip to Zambia in February was a once in a lifetime trip. But my support for UNICEF and the work they are doing all over the world, will not end there, and I hope yours won’t either.

Your journey, you decide. Enjoy travel this Spring season the way it should be experienced with Hertz. Enjoy the scenic routes from the comfort of your car while having the freedom to travel to destinations of your choice with family or friends. Peace of mind knowing Hertz has you protected. With so much to see and so little time a Hertz car is a precious friend to you and your family. Don’t be restricted, it’s your journey, you decide what you want to do.

Click on the Hertz icon at aerlingus.com for the best possible rates.

O2-6956A-26 O2 Money Cara Mag.indd 1

3/9/12 4:24 PM

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