Final Major Project - FAD Magazine by Bethanie Ryder

FAD APRIL 2018

“social media” issue 1

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR When I first developed the idea for FAD, I thought about how a magazine like this could help myself. Every month, over 3 billion of us bury our heads into social media, to compare, scrutinise and judge ourselves against our digital acquaintances. It’s a damaging act, but it’s one so many of us are feeling compelled to do. The pressure to look the best, have the best and be the best has become overwhelming. In an era where influencers hold one of the highest positions of authority, nothing ever does - or ever will - seem enough. That’s where we’re hoping to help. This issue we’re exploring the theme of social media and the power of these online personalities - from telling us what to eat to how we can improve our mental health - all complete with a costly price tag. In a world where friendships are measured in follower counts and achievements by overlyfiltered snapshots, it’s time to take it back to basics - for the sake of our bank accounts, our mental health and the world we want to continue living in. We really hope that you enjoy this issue and take something positive away from it. The digital sphere is so confusing and so complex, we were unable to cover every single topic that we would have liked to. But even if the least we could do was make you consider rethinking how you consume, it’s still a hopeful step in the right direction.

CONTRIBUTORS

BETHANIE RYDER @bethanieryder

LEILA LIAGHAT @leilalilacc

SOPHIE LAWRENCE @soph_illustration

SASKIA LEBOFF @sasindia_illustrations

BETHANY TAMANIS @bethtamanis MATTHEW MCNAMARA (no social media)

BLA H

H A L B BLAH

WHAT'S INSIDE 08

THE SOCIAL STATUS SUBJECT

"DOING IT FOR MYSELF"

TIME TO SLOW DOWN

THE HIGH/LOW - CBD

Reformation

As part of our 'The Social Status Subject' campaign, we spoke to Liverpool-born, 24-year-old Matt, on deleting his social media, the price-tag of social pressures and learning to take his style back to the basics.

THE SOCIAL SUBJECT

How do you feel social media affects self-image and the pressure to constantly purchase new products/garments? “Social media is such a dangerous platform if it’s not used properly by a public user like me [until I deleted it]. It catapults you into a world of luxury and wealth you couldn’t have even imagined beforehand: a world full of influencers and models alike. It’s so easy to get caught up in this world and question - “why isn’t my own life not like this?” “How do they afford this?” And back to the original question, “do I need to buy new clothes for myself?” So yes, I used to feel pressured when I was younger, but now that I’m older I understand that behind every picture is a business agreement, an advertisement and not everything is as it seems. A picture is a mere snapshot into a fantasy world and self-image is so much more important than that.”

“A lot of my clothing was bought out of peer pressure from when I was younger - not wanting my mates to take the piss out of me on a night out, or even for a complete stranger to judge me. I would use that mentality to justify spending over half a weeks wage on a Givenchy T-shirt that I didn’t even like the look of. Who’s going to judge you if you have the new season designer T-shirt on?”

Do you think that having a simple, capsule, wardrobe is an effective alternative, both mentally and for the environment?

“Yes, however I personally used to be the complete opposite of sustainable - I would buy and wear a different T-shirt every weekend. I guess there was also a lot of social pressure from growing up in Liverpool. At one point, I think Liverpool was the top location for Canada Goose coat sales in the U.K, so seeing everyone in one put a lot of pressure on buying into the trend, right from a young age. However, now I’m more in touch with my personal responsibility for the environment, I’m happy with a few staple looks. Mentally it’s a lot easier, less expensive, less stressful, and definitely less pressure. Some things are more important than others and feeling good for me trumps looking good, but I guess, sometimes, both fall hand in hand.”

“Your style will change as you grow as a person - it’s so important to let yourself evolve and your style should naturally reflect how you’re feeling at that point in your life.” 13

“doing it for myself ”

WORDS BY BETHANIE RYDER EDITORIAL DESIGN BY BETHANIE RYDER

A Generation Obsessed with Self-Care?

whilst luxury crystal-infused water bottles claiming to “restore love and harmony in relationships and open the heart to all levels of love, self-care and deep feelings of peace,” are being retailed at over £60. Although the motive behind the concept seems encouraging, the exclusiveness of this newly exploited craze begs the question -

“DOING IT FOR MYSELF”

WITH THE GRIM WARNING OF AN IRREVERSIBLE CLIMATE CHANGE EPIDEMIC, THE LIKELIHOOD OF A NO-DEAL BREXIT AND KNIFERELATED CRIMES REACHING A RECORD HIGH, IT WAS INEVITABLE THAT THE SEARCH FOR AN ESCAPE FROM OUR COUNTRIES TURMOIL WOULD SOON FOLLOW. CUE 'SELF-CARE'.

DOES SELF-CARE DISCRIMINATE THOSE WHO ARE UNABLE TO AFFORD ITS PRIVILEGES?

The trendy, holistic-inspired concept has grown into a $11 billion dollar (or just under £8 billion to us) industry, creeping its way into every commercial sector on the planet. With the trend proving particularly popular amongst millennials, this enthusiastic generation are spending twice as much on self-care ‘essentials,’ including workout plans, private therapy sessions and life-coaching courses to improve wellbeing. But behind the uprise of these voguish rituals, there’s a stack of worrying statistics regarding the demographics mental health. A survey published in 2018 by the American Psychiatry Association found that millennials are by large the most anxious generation, whilst 75% of all mental health problems in the UK are established by the age of 24. Whether our anxiety-fuelled population has had a direct correlation with this latest obsession is hard to tell, but the suggestion that more individuals are choosing to take their mental-health matters into their own hands is one that we can’t afford to ignore.

For something that should involve us putting our best interests at heart, it seems as though the digital sphere has taken a more materialistic viewpoint towards the idea. Social media platforms have been a massive influential factor in the popularity growth of self-care; the hashtag #selfcare has been featured a staggering 13 million times on Instagram, whilst accounts preaching positive affirmations – “love more, worry less” - continue to grow in their numbers. But digital influencers, who own a considerable amount of responsibility over what they display to their audiences, are choosing to flaunt their self-care practices through advertisements, affiliations and gifted commodities. Highly popular amongst the influencer community, wellness retreat Acquaforte Thalasso & Spa, based in Sardinia, claims to offer its customers a wide range of treatments, activities and experiences to improve their mental and physical wellbeing. But there’s a costly catch; a two-night stay at this retreat would set you back a hefty 3,300 euros, and that’s without the added extras.

It’s recently become apparent that the term ‘self-care’ has grown so popular, anything can be branded as the practice. The concept is simple – if you’re doing something to improve or preserve your mental-health, you can label it as your own self-care habit.t. But a whole new marketplace of self-care has evolved since its rise in status; consumers can now purchase ‘selfcare tattoos’ in the form of a plaster, complete with optimistic and motivational statements,

The UK isn’t exempt from these bourgeois-approved sanctuaries either - Tresco Wellness Retreat, located on the coast of Cornwall, trademarks itself as “the ultimate retreat from the hustle and bustle of day-to-day life,” complete with yoga classes, Aromatherapy massages and complimentary bikehiring services - all for a modest £750 per trip. The question is, are these practices really helping to

“we’re experiencing what could only be described as self-care

shame”

improve and recuperate our mental wellbeing, or are they simply another system built to capitalise on the latest generational fad?

The world of ‘tech-wellness’ has soared in status, despite the original practice of selfcare preaching the values of eliminating screen-time and embracing the present. Apps specialising in meditation, mood-tracking and promoting positive thinking have become the modern-day health fanatics go-to in alleviating stress and anxiety, although the blue light our phones project has been claimed to disrupt our sleep-patterns and hormones. But are these applications as clinically effective as they preach? Previous research has suggested that there is a direct correlation with the programmes and our mental-health, but not entirely in the In order to really reap the benefits that self-care way that they have been can offer, we need to take IN ORDER TO REALL Y promoted to us. There is it back to basics. Simple no ‘quick-fix’ to aiding REAP THE BENEFITS activities including talking mental-health issues, and THAT SELF-CARE CAN a walk, calling a friend companies preaching that or eating something you OFFER, WE NEED TO their app can ‘cure’ you enjoy can offer the same TAKE IT BACK TO in minutes are the exact {in some cases more} profit-focused systems advantages to our mental BASICS.” that we need to be wary health and wellbeing than of. There’s no doubt that these applications a five-night spa retreat or an overpriced hot can aid in improving our wellbeing, but it’s vital yoga session can. If you’re feeling that you need that the highly effective treatments, including professional help, don’t be afraid to go out there professional help and appropriate medicinal and ask for it - your health is your priority and remedies, are not discounted as a result. social stigma’s around therapy and counselling shouldn’t stop you from reaching out. However, The supposition that genuine mental illnesses if your impression of self-care is eating an can be treated purely through the art of selfentire share-packet of Sensations whilst bingecare is a dangerous theory and is one that watching Netflix, then you do you, but if you’re can’t afford to be overlooked – those living with more of the spa-retreat enthusiast, could you at mental health disorders are being encouraged least bring us back some of the freebies from to believe that acts such as regular meditation, your room? journalling and long baths could be the cure they’ve been desperately looking for. With this at the forefront of their minds, many people WORDS BY - BETHANIE RYDER are withholding themselves from getting the PHOTOGRAPHY - BETHANIE RYDER

A G E N E R AT I O N O B S E S S E D W I T H S E L F - C A R E ?

professional help they really need, with worrying consequences as a result. This isn’t the only concern that the trend has triggered either; the pressure of taking time out to participate in selfcare for those with busy lifestyles, alongside the financial burden that comes with the expected expenses can actually cause individuals to feel more anxious and agitated than beforehand. Structured through guidelines telling us what we should be doing, as opposed to what we could be doing, it’s unsurprising that we’re experiencing what could only be described as “self-care” shame – a feeling of guilt triggered by the suggestion that other individuals are doing more to preserve their mental wellbeing, whilst we’re unintentionally slacking behind.

TIME TO SLOW DOWN. WHY FAST FASHION IS DESTROYING THE EARTH AS WE KNOW IT.

WORDS BY BETHANIE RYDER ILLUSTRATION BY SASKIA LEBOFF

TIME TO SLOW DOWN?

IT'S

INEVITABLE THAT, BY NOW, THE MAJORITY OF US HAVE

HEARD ABOUT THE EFFECTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE. IT'S ALSO HIGHLY LIKELY THAT THE MAJORITY OF US KNOW THAT 10 PERCENT OF GLOBAL GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS ARE CAUSED BY THE FASHION INDUSTRY. SO WHY ARE SO MANY OF

TIME TO SLOW DOWN?

US CONTINUING TO IGNORE THESE WARNINGS?

the consequences of our customer demands. In order to understand the effects of excessive, fast-fashion consumption from an environmental perspective, we spoke to Sustainability Researcher, Bethany Tamanis, on how the trends and their rapid turn-overs are straining our natural resources -

WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION, we are full of excuses to justify our impulse purchases: a dress needed for an occasion, the unattainably quick turn-over of trends and the pressure of influencers and their affiliate discount links, but can these excuses really justify the 5283 gallons of water used to create just one kilogram of cotton, or the increasing levels of toxic waste dumped directly into the local inhabitants drinking water? For a long period of time, we as consumers were not educated enough to be put at the forefront of the blame for global concern. Corporations relying on our garment purchases were managing to keep their detrimental production methods from the spotlight, for the sake of their profitability and status. But now we have no reason not to be educated on the matter - widespread research information to support these claims is available to us through a click and scroll of a Google search, so why are so many of us still continuing to contribute to the destruction of our planet? Our love for quick, readyto-wear fashion is putting a massive strain on natural resources, yet we still choose to turn a blind-eye to

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The turn-around time for new trends to reach high-street stores can now be as little as a couple of weeks. As it stands, the industry is largely aimed at young females who, with the rise of social media, have an increasing desire to express their individualities but also fit into the social norms. Many fast-fashion retailersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; focus is the ability to create high volume products at low cost prices, resulting in a high profit turnover for the company. As well as this, the fragmentation of supply chains due to globalisation has meant companies can take advantage, by utilising inexpensive Chinese labour and cheaper materials. Consequently, this has had a devastating impact on ecological, economical and socio-political areas. The entire production line of these 26

over for themselves. For some, investing in fashion from these sustainable labels just isn’t an option that they can afford to make, with many of us unable to justify spending £70 on a t-shirt manufactured from recycled cotton. That’s why, instead, we need to be savvy with our purchase choices. We can still shop from our favourite fast-fashion brands, as long as we are being mindful as to where we are putting our money – buying fashion pieces with versatility and the ability to transition throughout the seasons, as opposed to gathering dust in the back of the wardrobe, is better for both your wallet and the environment. By putting a new perspective on the purpose behind our purchases we might just be able to contribute to saving the planet, whilst we still have the chance.

The need to constantly consume is one that is forced to our attentions on a daily basis. Those of us who are lucky enough to have disposable income will know the pressures to spend – when one ‘innovative, musthave’ product hits the shelves, it’s not long before its better alternative follows. This incessant, endless cycle of consumerism is literally stripping our Earth to DEATH. LUCKILY, THERE ARE STILL WAYS IN WHICH WE CAN HELP. It’s no surprise that sustainable clothing comes with a hefty price tag; better quality material, higher living wages and more ethical production workshops mean companies are having to charge more in order to generate a turn27

TIME TO SLOW DOWN?

fast-fashion brands needs to be considered as a contributing factor to this destruction: the materials and dyes used (including toxic pesticides harmful to humans and livestock), the exploitation of labour used to manufacture the items, plus the transport, aftercare and disposal of the garments.”

THE HIGH/LOW CBD

WORDS BY BETHANIE RYDER EDITORIAL DESIGN BY LEILA LIAGHAT

'AS THE CBD MARKET SETS TO HIT 22 BILLION DOLLARS BY 2022, WE DISCUSS THE INDUSTRIES RISE IN PROFIT, IT'S

NEWLY

CELEBRITY-APPROVED

STATUS

AND

WHETHER THE MARIJUANA-DERIVED EXTRACT REALLY IS WORTH THE HYPE.’ Usually known by its abbreviation ‘CBD’, cannabidiol is the non-psychoactive compound found in hemp and marijuana. Before its recent growth in popularity, the extract was more commonly referred to as the ‘controversial’ substitute in the health sector for afflictions where pharmaceutical aids had previously failed. With its psychoactive partner THC removed from the mix, the nonhallucinogenic has been dubbed as a ‘miracle’ amongst media headlines and personal testimonials due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-psychotic elements.

the health and wellbeing trade. Since the decriminalisation of cannabis in a number of American states, alongside Washington DC, the drug has undergone what could only be described as a ‘regeneration’; exchanging its former common conception for a fresher, more appealing image. Whilst its initial users stretched from youths on street corners to a generation who smoked their way through Woodstock, two things were always certain: its potent smell was unattractive, and the drug came with the risk of causing damaging effects to our mental health.

Dubious about the product’s reliability? A Reddit forum and its users’ testimonials are all that’s needed to reinforce the extract’s benediction. The platform previously held one discussion, titled “what has been your experience with CBD oil?” in which numerous punters claimed that the substance has “vastly improved” their quality of life, with one account quoting, “it helps me with anxiety, headaches and menstrual cramps, and it helps me sleep. Much recommended.” Although individuals have dubbed cannabidiol as the ‘Holy Grail’ in terms of medicinal requirements, the extract has recently begun to gain more traction and move into new sectors of the commercial sphere. However, as the product continues to progress into multiple industries, it’s clear that its most successful venture has been amongst

So how did this once predominantly unattractive substance manage to resurrect itself into becoming one of 2018’s biggest trends? You would probably want to thank the ‘Gwyneth Paltrow’ demographic for that. The personality’s lifestyle brand ‘Goop’ is home to over one-million subscribers, all searching for the latest and most exclusive regimes All a bit pretentious you might ask? There’s probably a bout of ostentatiousness in there somewhere, but when your annual revenue is hitting over $60 million, it’s also pretty clear that you’re definitely doing something right. “BUT WHEN YOUR ANNUAL REVENUE IS HITTING OVER 60 MILLION DOLLARS, IT’S ALSO PRETTY CLEAR THAT YOU’RE

DEFINITELY DOING SOMETHING RIGHT.”

It’s official, cannabis has finally swapped its distasteful reputation for a firm place in the luxury realm, and it isn’t just exclusive for the USA either. After UK legislations passed, in which it was stated that cannabidiol could be used for medicinal purposes, the country’s most established health and wellbeing corporations are racing to be the first to stock the extract on their shelves.

of their website dedicated to ‘Cannabis Beauty’), are now able to offer a large selection of CBD-infused cosmetics to their audiences.

HEALTH-FOODS CHAIN, Holland and

Barrett, is currently retailing CBD in its oil formula across their 715 British stores, whilst e-commerce brands including Canabidol.com offer the extract as oral supplements, ‘rescue creams’ and vaping liquids. But 2019 is already showing signs of a new emerging trend for this product – “CBD Beauty”. The concept has grown so vast that it has already gained its own subject category - stores from the likes of Sephora and Cult Beauty (who have an entire section

This upsurge in consumer interest doesn’t come as much of a surprise when you realise who the industry’s prime target market is. Brands including High Beauty (who’s products appeared in this year’s Academy Awards goodie bags), with its minimal, Scandi-style packaging, have tapped into the new collective of millennials who are more willing to invest into their personal wellbeing than a ticket to fabric. Cap Beauty, Lord Jones and Malin & Goetz, to name a few, are choosing to use the marijuana extract as a USP in their products, capitalising on its healing abilities and newly re-branded repute to attract a health-obsessed audience and their needs (that they once probably never knew they had).

SO WHAT ’S THE CATCH? As individuals preach the substances ability to alleviate chronic pain, ease anxiety symptoms and even aid in healing acne, there’s still a tinge of uncertainty that surrounds this holistic alternative. First and foremost, actual scientific studies that examined the extracts legitimacy are sparse - most of the information which affirms the products benefits have been taken from public endorsements or smallerscale research findings, with no doubt that a high probability of their funding being mainly supported by the cannabis industry. Alongside this, it’s inevitable that the trend only seems to be primarily popular amongst a demographic of white, upper/middle class individuals. As the decriminalisation of the drug went down in the US, the number of drug-related arrests and incarcerations went up, in particular amongst those deriving from an AfricanAmerican nationality or those living in less fortunate communities (surprised?). Whilst the Cyrus family choose to flaunt their weedusing habits across social media platforms, arrests associated with marijuana made up more than 40% of the 1.6 million drug-related arrests in 2017 across America, according to FBI’s annual Crime in the United States report. It would be ignorant to not suggest that there’s some wealthy, white privilege evident here, but is it even more ignorant for us to be investing in these cannabis-derived products during one of the world’s most poignant drug epidemics? Real regulations for the drug and its law are needed, and until then it seems as though the rules can only be bent for those with an affluent prerogative. Could this trendy new take on recreational drug usage be another short-lived, aristocratic fad, or is it here to stay? As it stands, it’s too hard to tell. But one thing’s for certain: there’s still plenty more trades for the industry to capitalise on before this elixir goes out of fashion. 33

S TAY W I L D

UNTIL NEXT TIME -

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