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Ocean Views


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Nuzzle up with a llama. Celebrate Appalachian heritage through a variety of historic museums. Romp and play in one of our award-winning parks. Tour Tour factor y. Hang onto o a hand-blown glass factory. your hat at a 26-acre amusement park. Catch a show at our outdoor amphitheater or indoor concert concert venues. Take Take a jog or bike ride on our pedestrian trail system. No matter your interests, Huntington has something for every ever y family – laid back or active. Stop by the Visitors Visitors Center to pick up your free visitor’s visitor’s guide! 210 Eleventh Street Huntington, WV 304.525.7333 www.wvvisit.org www.wvvisit.org

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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

elcome to latest issue of Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum also serves as Byways. Our theme in this headquarters for the Congressional Medal of Honor issue is Ocean Views, so join Society and their official Medal of Honor Museum. us a we visit some famous -- and not so Patriots Point also boasts one of the largest education and famous -- ocean destinations along the overnight camping programs in the nation, with more than 40,000 school age children attending these proway. grams each year. We start our journey in along the On the Gulf Coast, Corpus Christi, Texas is home to Eastern Shore of Virginia, visiting the sister islands of Chincoteague and Assateague. The National Wildlife the USS Lexington, which set more records than any Refuge in Chincoteague includes more than 14,000 acres other Essex Class carrier in the history of naval aviation. The Lexington was reported sunk no less than four of beach, dunes, birds and wildlife. times! Yet, each time she returned to fight again, leading But the islands are best known annual Pony Swim and her nickname of “The Blue Ghost.” Auction, where saltwater cowboys round up the ponies On the West Coast, San on Assateague and swim Diego is home to the USS them across to Midway, the the longestChincoteague. Join us as we serving Navy aircraft cartravel from the Eastern Shore rier of the 20th century. to Virginia Beach in search Commissioned a week of Virginia’s best beach after the end of World War experiences. II, the USS Midway Our cover story features embarked on an unpreceCanada’s Atlantic Provinces. dented 47-year odyssey The Atlantic Ocean domithat set new standards in nates Canada’s four easternnaval aviation. More than most provinces, Nova Scotia, 225,000 Americans took Newfoundland & Labrador, The USS Intrepid Sea, Air & part in the odyssey that New Brunswick and Prince Space Museum in New York City. ended after Midway Edward Island. These four served as the Persian Gulf provinces may make up flagship in Desert Storm. Canada’s smallest region geographically, but they’re Our final visit is to the USS Hornet Museum in jam-packed with history, culture, and as you’ll see, some Alameda, California, located across the Bay from San of the most spectacular scenery found anywhere! Next we travel coast-to-coast in search of five of the Francisco. The USS Hornet participated in two of the most famous floating museums in the world. They are greatest events of the 20th century -- World War II and the five U.S. Aircraft carrier museum ships open to the the Apollo 11 manned space mission. Under air attack 59 times during World War II in the public. There are two on the Atlantic Coast, one on the Pacific, she was never seriously damaged. In 1969 the Gulf, and two on the Pacific. We explore each as we USS Hornet was selected in 1969 to serve as the Prime board these huge ships which made history while preRecovery Ship for the Apollo 11 moon mission to the serving the freedoms we take for granted today. moon. The whole world watched as Hornet led a picThe USS Intrepid served in World War II, Vietnam and was a primary recovery vehicle for NASA launches, and ture-perfect recovery of America's first astronauts to land now is one of the most unique attractions in New York on the Moon. In our What’s Happening section, we learn how City. Attracting nearly 1 million visitors a year, Intrepid Hollywood helps the United States Air Force connect Sea, Air & Space Museum is one of America’s leading with the public, and we visit the National Quilt Museum historic, cultural and educational institutions. in Paducah, Kentucky. At Patriots Point, South Carolina, we find America’s We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways! Fighting Lady, the USS Yorktown. Yorktown participated significantly in the Pacific Offensive that began in late 1943 and ended with the defeat of Japan in 1945. 4 • Byways


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Volume 30, Issue No. 3, 2013 On the cover. The harbor at St. John’s Newfoundland is featured on the cover of Byways. For more on our coverage of Canada’s Atlantic Provinces, turn to page 38.

Features

Ocean Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Virginia’s Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

America’s Aircraft Carrier Museums. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 USS Intrepid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 USS Yorktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 USS Lexington. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 USS Midway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 USS Hornet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Canada’s Atlantic Provinces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Departments

Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

What’s Happening

Hollywood Helps Air Force Connect with Public. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 National Quilt Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Coming in future issues of Byways…Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, Leading North America Tour Destinations . . .and much more! At right, North Platte River in Bridgeport, Nebraska.

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Surrounded by the beauty of Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, the pristine shores of Sandbridge in Virginia Beach’s southern end offer breathtaking ocean-view rental homes and no hotels, just 15 minutes from the main resort area. Photo courtesy Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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Ocean Views -Virginia’s Beaches

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Chincoteague ponies during the annual pony penning and swim from Assateague. Photo courtesy Bonnie U. Gruenberg.

irginia is a beach destination with beaches big and small - from the Virginia Beach oceanfront to the warm, welcoming sands of the Eastern Shore and many beaches in between, families will find the beach that’s perfect for them in Virginia.

The Natural Side of Virginia's Eastern Shore Home to several pristine beaches and wildlife preserves, the beaches of Virginia’s Eastern Shore are some of the most serene and natural in the state. Visit the Shore’s sister islands of Chincoteague and Assateague, at the northern tip of the peninsula to experience natural gems for wildlife and pure beach bliss.    The National Wildlife Refuge in Chincoteague includes more than 14,000 acres of beach, dunes, birds and wildlife.  The unspoiled scenery of Assateague is the perfect backdrop for gazing upon the island’s wildlife.  In addition to an expansive, pristine beach, Assateague operates two visitor centers and miles of hiking trails. One of the best hikes is up to the top of the Assateague lighthouse.  Visit in July for the annual Pony Swim and Auction, where saltwater cowboys round up the ponies on Assateague and swim them across to Chincoteague. Camping, crabbing, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, hiking and bicycling add to the family bonding. Broaden the Chincoteague experience by enjoying delightful B&Bs, restaurants, 10 • Byways

shops, craft galleries and museums. At the southern tip of the Eastern Shore is Kiptopeke State Park, a perfect place for families who love beaches, nature and camping.    Kiptopeke’s beachfront hugs nearly half a mile of the Chesapeake Bay, offering the opportunity to explore unique migratory bird habitat along the Atlantic flyway.  Seasonal interpretive and educational programs focus on natural history, birding and bay ecology. The park has 4.2 miles of hiking and biking trails and is the only Virginia state park to feature a yurt - a cross between a tent and a cabin. The Kiptopeke yurt has a spectacular view of the Chesapeake Bay with a

Assateague Lighthouse


Nauticus, the National Maritime Center. Courtesy of Nauticus, Norfolk, VA.

large wooden deck, picnic table and fire ring.  The park’s five, 6-bedroom lodges feature gas fireplaces.   Cape Charles Beach is known for shallow Bay waters and no waves, ideal for families with small children. Cape Charles is the Eastern Shore’s southern-most town on the Chesapeake Bay.  Cape Charles is a quintessential Virginia small town, with B&Bs, restaurants and shops lining the main street.  It’s also just minutes away from the 1,200-acre  Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge, one of Virginia’s premier birding and wildlife sites.  

For fishing enthusiasts, Virginia Beach features four fishing piers offering tackle rental and bait. The pier overlooks the boardwalk and those who love to ride the waves at the oceanfront. Photo courtesy Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau.

Quintessential Beachfront Family Fun at Virginia Beach Virginia Beach’s famed 3-mile Boardwalk is the longest in the country and a place where families can take in the ocean views while biking, rollerblading or just strolling along for some great people watching. Many free, family-oriented events take place throughout spring and summer along the boardwalk, such as concerts, festivals and sporting events. At any point, families can stray from the boardwalk onto Virginia Beach’s nicely-manicured sand to build sand castles, collect sea

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For the fishing enthusiast, Virginia Beach offers 4 piers from which to cast a line. The Virginia Beach Fishing Pier located on 15th Street features souvenir shops, a restaurant and a great place to view the oceanfront Boardwalk. Photo courtesy Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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shells or lounge under an umbrella. Or, The Virginia Air & Space Center in Hampton. stroll over to Atlantic Avenue to enjoy the free entertainment from Beach Street USA jugglers, mimes, jazz musicians and more.    A trip to Virginia Beach just wouldn’t be complete without a fun and educational visit to the state’s largest aquarium, the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center.  Hosting over 800,000 gallons of aquariums and live animal habitats focusing on Virginia’s diverse and unique marine environment, the aquarium features more than 300 hands-on exhibits, a nature trail, an aviary, two animal touch pools and a 3D IMAX® theater!  The Aquarium’s newest exhibit gallery, Restless Planet, adds an international touch with habitats that showcase exotic animals such as tomistomas, Egyptian oceanfront houses are both owner-occupied and rented cobras, spotted eagle rays and Komodo dragons.   Families who want to get away from the hustle and by the week. bustle to connect with nature can head to the 8,000acre  Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge  or  First Family Fun, Beaches and Maritime History Landing State Park to gaze at beach wildlife and enjoy in Norfolk several miles of outstanding hiking and biking Norfolk’s four city beaches are wide with gentle surf, trails.  Some secluded beaches in Virginia Beach include lifeguards in the summer, picnic pavilions and free parkthe North End and Sandbridge to the south, where large ing. Visitors can rent sailboats, jet skis, paddleboats and

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kayaks. Just 15 miles west of Virginia Beach is Norfolk’s Ocean View Beach, which stretches continuously along eight miles of the Chesapeake Bay. Norfolk’s Town Point Park overlooks the harbor and is the site for many events, such as Harborfest every June, featuring a fine array of tall ships.   Norfolk is also a destination for families who love maritime history.  One of Norfolk’s museums, Nauticus, the National Maritime Center, is an interactive science center with a maritime theme that features more than 150 exhibits, giant screen films, exotic aquaria and touch pools.  The USS Wisconsin, one of the last and largest battleships built by the U.S. Navy, is adjacent to Nauticus and open for main deck tours.   

Space and Sea in Hampton Hampton is the birthplace of America’s space program and home to NASA Langley and Langley Air Force Base. The Virginia Air & Space Center in Hampton is the visitor center for both sites, so families can mix fun and learning. Visitors can take a virtual voyage to Mars, fly a full size DC-9 aircraft, and launch a rocket. They can see a moon rock, a Mars meteorite and the Apollo 12 Command Module, plus enjoy 3D IMAX films on a five-story screen.   What about the water?  Hampton has 12 deep-water marinas as well as Buckroe Beach, which offers eight acres of beach, a playground, picnic shelters, a walking and bike path, a pet-friendly Bark Park and concert bandstand.  In the summer months, visitors can swing to the sounds of the Sunday night Groovin’ by the

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Bay concerts, or view an outdoor movie at the Tuesday night  POMOCO Family Movie Series.  Beach chair, umbrella, kayak and paddlecraft rentals are available and parking is plentiful, making a visit to Buckroe Beach convenient and enjoyable.  

Fishing for Fun in Virginia's Tributaries Tales of imaginary catches are not necessary in Virginia.  Fishermen revel in the variety of both freshwater and saltwater fish in the tributaries to the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean.    In the Northern Neck, which stretches between the Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers, five small public beaches run along the Potomac, such as  Westmoreland State Park’s beach and Colonial Beach, the northernmost beach and site of George Washington's Birthplace.    Westmoreland State Park offers many opportunities for family fun - an Olympic-sized swimming pool, launching ramp for power boats, campgrounds, cabins, fishing pier, boat rentals and six miles of trails.  Fossil collectors enjoy hunting for shark teeth on the Potomac, and birding enthusiasts find the park an excellent site for spotting American bald eagles, ospreys, kingfishers, great blue herons, common terns, green herons, gulls and wintering waterfowl.      Love is at the heart of every Virginia vacation. To plan a family getaway along Virginia’s many beaches, visit www.Virginia.org or call 1-800-932-5827 to request a free copy of the Virginia is for Lovers Travel Guide. 


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The USS Yorktown Museum at Patriot’s Point is South Carolina’s #1 Heritage Attraction. Photo courtesy Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum.


Ocean Views -- America’s Aircraft Carrier Museums

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or more than 70 years, U.S. Navy aircraft carriers have been vital to defending America’s interest’s around the world. They have been employed in every major conflict and many smaller actions including World War II, Korea, Vietnam; Grenada and Lebanon; Libya; Operation Desert Storm; and most recently in Afghanistan and

Iraq. The U.S. carrier is a mobile U.S. military base complete with airfield, hospital and communications systems from which the United States can react at any time, or place where there is an ocean, making them a cornerstone of America’s ability to project its strength in an unstable world. Aside from joining the U.S. Navy and serving on an aircraft carrier, there are few opportunities to experience life at sea on these huge floating cites. But you can visit an Aircraft Carrier Museum, among the largest floating museums in the world. Today, there are five U.S. Aircraft Carrier museums open to the public, two on the Atlantic Coast in New York City (USS Intrepid) and at Patriots Point in South Carolina (USS Yorktown), one in the Gulf at Corpus Christi, Texas (USS Lexington) , and two on the Pacific Coast, at San Diego (USS Midway) and Alameda, across the Bay from San Francisco (USS Hornet). These five carriers are among the most storied fighting ships in U.S. Naval history, and a visit will not only be a unique experience you won’t soon forget, it will provide a history lesson on the role each played in securing the freedoms we take for granted today.

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USS Intrepid, New York’s Largest Floating Museum

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The USS Intrepid Museum is an imposing sight in New York City. Photos courtesy Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum.


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The Hanger Deck features aircraft from Intrepid’s many missions.

he Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum is one of America’s leading historic, cultural and educational institutions. Opened in 1982, the Museum is centered on the aircraft carrier Intrepid (CVS-11), one of the most successful ships in U.S. history, and now a national historic landmark and one of the most unique attractions in New York City. In 1943, Intrepid was commissioned and served proudly in World War II. She went on to serve as one of the primary recovery vessels for NASA, three tours of duty off Vietnam, and submarine surveillance in the North Atlantic during the Cold War. Today she continues her service as a premier educational center and a monument to all who have served our nation in uniform. Visit the flight deck, where Intrepid launched the propeller-driven planes that helped defeat Japan during World War II, the jets that supported U.S. ground forces in Vietnam, and the helicopters that recovered NASA astronauts in the 1960s. It was also here that Japanese kamikaze suicide planes hit, exacting their terrible toll upon Intrepid’s crew. Today, the Flight Deck holds most of Intrepid’s collection of authentically restored aircraft. From the Avenger torpedo bomber, a stalwart from Intrepid’s World War II service, to the A-12 Blackbird, the redoubtable spy plane 22 • Byways

from the Cold War, the collection reflects some of the greatest achievements in military aviation. Intrepid’s Hangar Deck exhibition space is unique among historic ships. Visitors can follow the deck’s two separate paths: explore Intrepid’s technology on the port (left) side and celebrate the people who lived and worked on the ship on the starboard (right) side. The Museum’s permanent exhibition brings to life the powerful history of the aircraft carrier. Examine original artifacts, view historic video footage, and explore interactive exhibits that trace Intrepid’s Navy career from 1943 to the present. The Museum features a range of interactive exhibits and events providing a snapshot of heroism, education, and excitement. Children and adults alike find themselves immersed in and inspired by the Museum’s exhibits, which range from thrilling historical re-creations such as Kamikaze: Day of Darkness, Day of Light, to new interactive displays. Visitors also can ride in the A-6 Cockpit Simulator, visit the Virtual Flight Zone, and tour the inside of the Growler Submarine. More than 50,000 school children participate in the Museum’s unique educational programs every year. These programs cover every age group and include special initiatives such as character and leadership development. The Museum also hosts the annual Fleet Week


The New York City skyline is visible from the USS Intrepid’s Flight Deck.

celebration in honor of our military personnel. will be the new home to the Russian Soyuz space capsule Since 1982, the Intrepid has become a national icon and incorporate new experiences designed to immerse and now hosts nearly 1 million visitors each year. visitors of all ages in the sights, sounds and stories of the To learn more about the Intrepid Museum, visit: space shuttle program. Included will be a soundscape http://www.intrepidmuseum.org entryway featuring audio between NASA control and Enterprise astronauts, a programmed demonstration stage, and exhibits highlighting shuttle program spinoffs. Space Shuttle Enterprise

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Pavillion To Reopen

pace Shuttle Pavilion, housing Space Shuttle Enterprise, the original NASA orbiter that paved the way for America’s successful space shuttle program, will reopen to the public in July at the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum. The new Space Shuttle Pavilion replaces the original structure that was damaged by Hurricane Sandy. Visitors will be able to walk underneath Enterprise which sits 10 feet off of the ground, view Enterprise from a larger observation platform and view a film narrated by actor Leonard Nimoy. In addition to Enterprise, the Pavilion

The Space Shuttle Enterprise is lowered onto the flight deck of the USS Intrepid.

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USS Yorktown at South Carolina’s Patriots Point

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The USS Yorktown at its South Carolina home. Photos courtesy Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum.

orktown — The Fighting Lady – is celebrating her 70th anniversary this year. Alot has changed since the ship’s commissioning in 1943, including military technology and museum experiences. The majority of visitors to Patriots Point are a younger demographic. They expect a well-rounded experience that incorporates history with the latest technology. The Yorktown is an Essex-class aircraft carrier which was commissioned on April 15, 1943. It is the 10th aircraft carrier to serve in the United States Navy. This new Essex-class carrier, initially to have been named the Bon Homme Richard, was renamed while under construction to honor the USS Yorktown (CV-5), which sank at the Battle of Midway in June 1942. First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt was the sponsor of both USS Yorktown carriers – CV-5 and CV-10. Yorktown participated significantly in the Pacific Offensive that began in late 1943 and ended with the defeat of Japan in 1945. Much of the 1944 Academy Award-winning documentary The Fighting Lady was filmed aboard the Yorktown, as well as the 1970 film Tora! Tora! Tora! 24 • Byways

Yorktown received the Presidential Unit Citation and earned 11 battle stars for service in World War II and 5 battle stars for service in Vietnam from 1965-1968. In December 1968, Yorktown recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts and capsule. She was decommissioned in 1970, and became a museum ship at Patriots Point in 1975, and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1980. With 28 aircraft on display from conflicts ranging

The destroyer USS Laffey, nicknamed “the ship that would not die” has joined Yorktown at Patriots Point.


from WWII to present-day operations, Patriots Point is one of the top sites in the country for Naval aviation enthusiasts. In fact, Patriots Point is the only aircraft carrier museum in the nation to have all of the top ten most significant aircraft in U.S. carrier aviation history (according to a study released in the Winter 2011 issue of The Hook magazine). Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum also serves as headquarters for the Congressional Medal of Honor Society and their official Medal of Honor Museum. Patriots Point recently announced an agreement with the Congressional Medal of Honor Society to develop a permanent landside location for the National Medal of Honor Museum on Charleston Harbor. This museum will lease land from Patriots Point, joining other lessees: Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina, Patriots Point Golf Links, and the College of Charleston. Patriots Point boasts one of the largest education and overnight camping programs in the nation, with more than 40,000 school age children attending these programs each year. Youngsters arrive and experience the majesty of the USS Yorktown, sleep in the berthing areas where the

Overnight Educational Program on Yorktown.

sailors once slept, learn about naval and aviation history. Each camping package includes self-guided tours, meals and entertainment, plus an On-site Educational Program. Since opening in 1975, Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum has welcomed more than 9 million visitors, bringing each a unique experience about U.S. Naval history and the USS Yorktown. For additional information, visit: http://www.patriotspoint.org Byways • 25


USS Lexington Museum, Corpus Christi, Texas

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The USS Lexington at home in Corpus Christi, Texas. Photos courtesy Corpus Christi Convention & Visitors Bureau.


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ommissioned in 1943, the USS Lexington set cargo and damaged an additional 600,000 tons. The more records than any other Essex class carrier in ship’s guns shot down 15 planes and assisted in downing five more. the history of naval aviation. The ship was the oldest working carrier in the United States Navy when decommissioned in 1991. An Essexclass carrier, Lexington was originally named the USS Cabot. During World War II, final construction was being completed at Massachusetts’ Fore River Shipyard when word was received that the original carrier named USS Lexington, CV-2, had been sunk in the Coral Sea. The new carrier’s name was changed to Lexington. After training maneuvers and a shakedown cruise, Lexington joined the Fifth Fleet at Pearl Harbor. The Fifth Fleet was established April 26, 1944, at this time it was Central Pacific Force. During World War II, the carrier participated in nearly every major operation in the Pacific Theater and spent a total of 21 months in combat. Her planes destroyed 372 enemy aircraft in the air, and 475 more on the ground. She sank or destroyed 300,000 tons of enemy 28 • Byways


The Japanese reported Lexington sunk no less than four times! Yet, each time she returned to fight again, leading the propagandist Tokyo Rose to nickname her “The Blue Ghost.” The name is a tribute to the ship and the crew and air groups that served aboard her. After the war, the Lexington was briefly decommissioned (1947-1955). When reactivated, she operated primarily with the Seventh Fleet out of San Diego, California. Although not involved in actual combat, the Lexington kept an offshore vigil during tensions in Formosa, Laos, and Cuba. In 1962, she sailed into Pensacola, Florida, and began training operations, eventually being officially designated CVT-16, Navy Training Carrier. Corpus Christi was selected as the permanent home to this national treasure. Not since the Battle of the Philippine Sea has the Lexington come to life quite like it is today. New Virtual Battle Stations offer a truly interactive experience that will thrust you into the chaos and grit that was WWII. Harrowing challenges and climactic battles require your sharpest reflexes. It takes cunning tactics and nerves of steel to survive a day on the Lexington. These new battle stations are just a taste of what’s in store for you aboard the USS Lexington. The flight simulator launches you into real combat, the 3D Mega

The Corpus Christi skyline.

USS Lexington at sea in 1943.

Theater turns your seat into a cockpit and the control room … well … you’ll just have to see for yourself. Around every corner and down every tunnel, an adventure unfolds. The sights and sounds are so real and so intense you become part of the story the moment you climb aboard the USS. Lexington. The USS Lexington is open daily at 9:00am with all areas except flight and hangar decks air conditioned. http://usslexington.com For additional information on visiting Corpus Christi, visit http://visitcorpuschristitx.org

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The USS Midway with the San Diego skyline in rhe background. Photos courtesy USS Midway Museum.

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USS Midway Museum San Diego, California Byways • 31


The Flight Deck aboard the USS Midway.

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n San Diego, California, you’ll explore a floating city at sea and relive nearly 50 years of world history aboard the longest-serving Navy aircraft carrier of the 20th century -- the USS Midway. A visit includes a self-guided audio tour to 60 exhibits throughout the historic aircraft carrier and 29 restored aircraft. Exhibits range from the crew’s sleeping quarters to a massive galley, engine room, the ship’s jail, officer’s country, post office, machine shops, and pilots’ ready rooms, as well as primary flight control and the bridge high in the island over the flight deck. Especially popular are the museum  docents you’ll meet throughout the ship. Each is eager to share a personal story, an anecdote, or amazing statistic, adding to your amazement throughout your adventure. Commissioned a week after the end of World War II, the USS Midway embarked on an unprecedented 47year odyssey that set new standards in naval aviation. More than 225,000 Americans took part in the odyssey that ended after Midway served as the Persian Gulf flagship in Desert Storm. In addition to being the longest-serving U.S. Navy carrier of the 20th century, it was also the largest ship in the world, 1945-1955. Highlights of a visit to the carrier include: • More than 60 exhibits from boiler to bridge, including 29 restored aircraft. • Virtual video tour for limited-access exhibits.

•Elevator access onto the ship and to second deck and flight deck. • Interactive videos, climbaboard airc r a f t , ejection-seat theatre. • Café and Gift Shop. • Early-bird docent-led tours. •Wheelchair Access: elevators available from Navy Pier to hangar deck, second deck and flight deck. Virtual video tour of limited-access exhibits shown continuously on the flight deck. • Most-visited floating ship museum in the world: 4.1 million visitors in 5 years (2004-2009). • First museum in the U.S. to receive the Preserve America Presidential Award in a Rose Garden Ceremony. • Included in msn.com’s “Top 50 Museums of America.” To learn more about visiting the USS Midway Museum, follow this link. http://www.midway.org

Hanger Deck aboard the USS Midway.

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USS Hornet Museum in Alameda, with downtown San Francisco visible across San Francisco Bay.

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he USS Hornet Museum is located in Alameda, California, across the bay from downtown San Francisco. The Aircraft Carrier USS Hornet is a national treasure, having participated in two of the greatest events of the 20th century -- World War II and the Apollo 11 manned space mission. The USS Hornet CV-12 is one of the 24 legendary Essex-class aircraft carriers built during and after World War II. Built at Newport News, Virginia, and the eighth ship to be named “Hornet,” she is one of the most decorated ships of the U.S. Navy. The CV-12 was named Kearsarge when her keel was laid at Newport News on August 3, 1942. After the first carrier Hornet (CV-8) was sunk at the Battle of Santa Cruz in October 1942, the Navy changed the name of CV-12 to Hornet to carry on the name of her predecessor. Hornet left Pearl Harbor on March 15, 1944 en route to the forward area. Her combat debut as the flagship of Admiral J.J. “Jocko” Clark came quickly as she joined famed Task Force 58. For the next 18 months, the carrier would never tie-up at a pier. For fourteen of those months, Hornet would be in the most forward areas of the Pacific war -- sometimes within 40 miles of the Japanese home islands. The USS Hornet’s record includes: • Under air attack 59 times, she was never seriously damaged. • Her aircraft destroyed 1,410 The USS Hornet at sea. Japanese aircraft; only Essex exceeded this record. • Her air groups destroyed or damaircraft carrier, exhibits from the moon exploration misaged 1,269,710 tons of enemy shipping. sions, and several retired aircraft from the transonic and • 72 enemy aircraft shot down in one day during the early supersonic jet propulsion period. famous “Great Marianas Turkey Shoot.” A number of compartments contain exhibits concern• 10 Hornet pilots attained “Ace in a Day” status. ing contemporary carriers that are supported by related • 255 aircraft shot down in a month. associations. The flight deck, hangar deck, and first deck • 30 of 42 VF-2 Hellcat pilots were aces. below are open for self-guided tours. Tours are available • Supported nearly every Pacific amphibious landing into the ship’s navigation and flight deck control areas of after March 1944. the island and down into one of the engineering spaces • Scored the critical first hits in sinking the super batcontaining two of the four ship’s propulsion turbines. tleship Yamato. To learn more about visiting the USS Hornet, follow • Launched the first carrier aircraft strikes in support of this link: the liberation of the Philippine Islands. http://www.uss-hornet.org • In 1945 launched the first strikes against Tokyo since the 1942 Doolittle Raid. Today the the USS Hornet musem is composed of the 36 • Byways


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Apollo Command Module CM-011A, in the Apollo program exhibit on USS Hornet. This command module was used in AS-202, an unmanned test flight, after which it was recovered by Hornet.

Splashdown Exhibit – includes memorabilia and SS Hornet was selected in 1969 to serve as the photos from the Apollo 11 and 12 moon missions. Prime Recovery Ship for the Apollo 11 moon mission to the moon. The whole world watched as Hornet led a picture-perfect recovery of America’s first astronauts to land on the Moon. Four months later, Hornet recovered the all-Navy crew of Apollo 12. The USS Hornet Museum has the largest Apollo exhibit on the West Coast. Space artifacts on display: Apollo Space Capsule – used for suborbital space flights to test the heat shield designed for Apollo capsules; recovered by Hornet in 1966. Mobile Quarantine Facility – Apollo 14 astronauts Mitchell, Shepard, and Roosa were quarantined in this trailer to protect the Earth from potential “moon germs” while they were being transported back to the space center following their splashdown. SH-3H Sea King – used in the 1995 President Richard M. Nixon was in the central Pacific recovery area to movie Apollo 13; same type of helicop- welcome the Apollo 11 astronauts on the USS Hornet, prime recovery ter that recovered the Apollo 11 and 12 ship for the historic Apollo 11 lunar landing mission. Confined to the Mobile Quarantine Facility are (left to right) Neil A. Armstrong, astronauts painted in the same “66” livcommander; Michael Collins, command module pilot; and Edwin E. ery as the original. ("Buzz") Aldrin Jr., lunar module pilot.

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Ocean Views Canada’s Atlantic Provinces: Nova Scotia, Newfoundland & Labrador, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island

Grand Princess Cruise Ship arrives in Avalon. Photo courtesy Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism. Byways • 39


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Victoria by the Sea. Photo courtesy Tourism Prince Edward Island.

By Kathryn Harley Haynes

he first clue to Canada’s Atlantic provinces is in the name—the Atlantic Ocean dominates Canada’s four easternmost provinces. There’s Prince Edward Island, the beach-circled, bucolic birthplace of fictional character Anne of Green Gables. Then there’s Nova Scotia, which crams 4,600 miles (7,400 km) of coastline onto a peninsula narrow enough that you’re never more than 35 miles from the sea. There’s New Brunswick, which boasts two entirely different coastlines: rocky crags along the Bay of Fundy and sandy shores beside the surprisingly warm waters of the Northumberland Strait. Completing the quartet is Newfoundland and Labrador; a mere 2,000 miles (3,200 km) from Europe, it’s convenient enough for the Vikings to pop by (around 1000 A.D.). These four may make up Canada’s smallest region geographically, but they’re jam-packed with history, culture, scenery and things to do. And while they’re close in distance, each province is distinct. In Nova Scotia, true to its name “New Scotland,” there’s a real taste of Scotland that ranges from Gaelic language to whiskey. New Brunswick has the distinction of being 40 • Byways

Canada’s only officially bilingual, French-English province. Prince Edward Island resembles a mini-Great Britain, with tidy fields and rolling hills. Then there’s Newfoundland, the island known as “The Rock,” with its rugged fishing villages and lively historic capital city, St. John’s; and Labrador, one of the world’s greatest remaining wilderness areas. So, who lives in Atlantic Canada? Almost 2.3 million people with diverse roots: two First


Nations bands, the Mi’kmaq and Maliseet, who’ve been College on Cape Breton Island, NS, and The College of joined over the centuries by Basque whalers, fishermen Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada on Prince from Brittany and Normandy, Scottish highlanders, Edward Island. Loyalists (or Tories, as the Americans called the losing side in the Revolutionary War), slaves escaping up the “Underground Railroad” to Canada, plus waves of Irish, German, Dutch, Lebanese and other immigrants. Today, the population is often noted for being Canada’s friendliest, with a laid-back charm as distinctive as the Irish overtones in the lilting Newfoundland accent. And Atlantic Canadians are funny—the region is the birthplace of some of Canada’s leading comedians, including Rick Mercer of “Talking to Americans” and “Rick Mercer Report” fame. The dominant sound to come from Atlantic Canada’s cultural stew is the fiddle, with foot-stomping Acadian, Scottish and/or Irish strains. The bagMiramichi River Boat Tours. Photo courtesy Tourism New Brunswick . pipes are big, too, at the Gaelic

The setting sun at Peggy’s Cove. Photo courtesy Nova Scotia Tourism Agency.


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Iceburg sightings are common in Atlantic Canada. Photo courtesy Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism. Byways • 43


Lobster fishing boats in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia.

There’s a great mix of traditional and not-so-tradition- are prime growing areas. al music at the annual Miramichi Folksong Festival and Chocolate from the Ganong Bros. chocolate factory, in Francofête en Acadie, both in New Brunswick. For the St. Stephen, NB, which is also the site of The Chocolate classically minded, there’s the Lamèque International Baroque Music Festival, Lobster is served on also in New Brunswick, now Shediac Bay Cruise. in its 37th year. Photo courtesy Tourism Of course, in this oceanNew Brunswick. defined area there’s more than singing and dancing— there’s lots of good eating: Lobster fresh from the boat in little fishing villages like Rustico, PEI, Pictou, NS, or Quidi Vidi, NL, along with scallops, mussels, oysters, clams or crab, haddock or halibut. Sardines from Blacks Harbour, NB, home of the world’s largest sardine industry. Blueberries: New Brunswick and Nova Scotia 44 • Byways


Museum and central to the annual Chocolate Fest. You’ll find artisanal cheeses, charcuterie and rumflavoured cake.

Breton Island, NS, the largest reconstructed 18th-century fortified French town in North America. Kings Landing Historical Settlement, a living recreation of 19th-century New Brunswick life, and the Village Historique Acadien in Caraquet, NB, for an 18thcentury view. Province House National Historic Site in PEI’s capital city, Charlottetown, where Canada formed its Confederation in 1867.

There’s good stuff to drink, too, such as: North America’s first and oldest single-malt whiskey, from Glenora Inn & Distillery on Cape Breton Island, NS Wine from one of Nova Scotia’s six wine-growing regions. Sports activities range from sailing to salmon fishing Newfoundland screech, which is a locally bottled (more on salmon fishing) to surfing to snowmobiling to Jamaican rum. skiing. As for golf, there are many, many choices: 10 Prince Options for history buffs are equally Edward Island courses ranked among Canada’s top 100; varied: New Brunswick’s Signature Courses; the fabulous four L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, NL, a courses that make Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island one reconstruction of the Viking settlement that is the earliest of the world’s best golf destinations (in Golf Digest’s known European site in North America. view); the elite Fox Harb’r Golf Resort and Spa on Nova Port-Royal National Historic Site, NS, where Samuel Scotia’s gentle Northumberland Strait; a Newfoundland de Champlain established The Order of Good Cheer in course in sight of icebergs and a Labrador course where the winter of 1606-07 to boost morale during these cold it’s possible to play a late round under the Northern months. Lights. Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site on Cape

The Lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove. Photo courtesy Nova Scotia Tourism Agency.

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Halifax downtown from the end of the pier behind the waterfront Visitor Information Centre. Photo courtesy Nova Scotia Tourism Agency. Byways • 47


The National Museum of the U.S. Air Force in Dayton, Ohio.

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HOLLYWOOD HELPS AIR FORCE CONNECT WITH PUBLIC

he more than one million visitors who tour the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force each year may not realize there’s a “movie star” in their midst. But as moviegoers flock to theaters this summer to see the latest Superman film, Man of Steel, they’ll catch a glimpse of the Boeing C-17 that now sits in the museum’s Air Park. In addition to its role as an Air Force developmental test and evaluation aircraft for more than 20 years, this C-17 stars in a scene with the villain Faora in Man of Steel and has appeared in four other major motion pictures, including Transformers, Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen, Iron Man and Iron Man 2, as well as country superstar Toby Keith’s Emmy Award-winning production of American Soldier. In fact, the aircraft has several camera icons painted on its fuselage depicting its many Hollywood roles. Another museum asset — an A-10 cockpit that is on loan to the Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson, AZ also appears in Man of Steel. In addition, an Air Force C130 and F-35 were used in the film. The National Museum of the U.S. Air Force has two C-130 variants displayed among its more than 360 aerospace vehicles and missiles. How do Air Force aircraft and people find their way onto movie sets? That’s the job of the Air Force Entertainment Liaison Office, which works with film, television, music video, video game and comic book producers who want direct access to Air Force people, aircraft and equipment, technical assistance, military advice and locations. “We are always looking to participate in entertainment projects that provide the opportunity to positively project the U.S. Air Force and its Airmen to the American peo48 • Byways

ple,” said Lt. Col. Francisco Hamm, director of the Entertainment Liaison Office. “Ultimately, the Air Force is interested in great storytelling that organically involves Air Force characters, assets and missions.” The original office opened at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, Ohio, in 1947, and the public affairs officer later moved to Los Angeles to deal with the interest surrounding test flights and aircraft production in the area. After a short while, Hollywood studios and producers wanted to arrange filming at area installations and aircraft factories, and the office’s mission evolved to include motion picture support. The Air Force’s long history with Hollywood is also apparent in other exhibits at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force. “Many well-known celebrities have served in the U.S. military, and others became famous after they served,” said Dr. Jeff Underwood, the museum historian. “It is great to be able to share the stories of some of those connected to the Air Force with our visitors.” When the United States began re-arming for World War II, millions of Americans willingly went into military service, and among them were many celebrities from stage, screen, sports, radio and music. The museum’s Celebrities in Uniform exhibit includes uniforms and personal memorabilia from well-known actors, including Jackie Coogan, who became known as Uncle Fester on the 1960s sitcom The Addams Family; Gene Raymond, a film, television and stage actor of the 1930s and 1940s; Clark Gable, best known for his role as Rhett Butler in the film Gone with the Wind; Jimmy Stewart, who starred in many films and rose to the rank of brigadier general in the U.S. Air Force Reserve; and Ronald Reagan, who was a radio, film and television


actor prior to pursuing politics and becoming the 40th president of the United States. Glenn Miller, one of America’s greatest dance band leaders of the 1940s, is featured in another exhibit in the World War II Gallery. He joined the Army Air Forces in 1942, and within a year had organized and perfected what has been widely accepted as the greatest combination of dance musicians ever forged into a single unit, the Maj. Glenn Miller Army Air Force Band. Two service members during the Korean War went on to have movies made about their wartime experiences. Capt. Lillian Kinkela Keil’s extraordinary experiences as a flight nurse inspired the 1953 Hollywood movie Flight Nurse, starring Joan Leslie. Lt. Col. Russell L. Blaisdell, Lt. Col. Dean Hess and others organized help for nearly 1,000 Korean orphans during Operation Kiddy Car. In 1957 Hess published the Kiddy Car story in his book Battle Hymn, later made into a motion picture starring Rock Hudson. Royalties from the book and movie went to build a new orphanage near Seoul. Over the years, many celebrities have performed for troops throughout the world. For more than 50 years, Bob Hope enter-

C-17 Globemaster III aircraft . Photo courtesy Staff Sgt. Jacob N. Bailey, U.S. Air Force.

they go about their daily lives.” Colonel Hamm agrees that it’s important to engage with the public, and movies like Man of Steel give the Air Force a unique opportunity to show people what it means to be an Airman. “The Air Force char-

g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha acter, Col. Hardy, played by actor Christopher Meloni, does an amazing job of incorporating the core values of the Air Force that are instilled in all of our Airmen as he teams up with Superman to fend off the bad guys,” Hamm said. The National Museum of the United States Air Force is located on Springfield Street, six miles northeast of downtown Dayton. It is open seven days a week from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day). Admission and parking are free. For more information about the museum, visit www.nationalmuseum.af.mil. The Air Force Entertainment Liaison Office is located in Los Angeles, and its mission is to project and protect the image of the United States Air Force within the global entertainment environment. For more information, visit www.airforcehollywood.af.mil.

tained men and women of the U.S. Air Force and the other services at home and overseas, in peace and in war. At least 10 million G.I.s benefited from his efforts, which are recognized in a museum exhibit that includes the Emmy Award he received in 1966 and many other pieces of his personal memorabilia. The Korean War Gallery features photos of two other celebrities – Marilyn Monroe and Eddie Fisher – who visited with troops during that war. The museum has other “star” aircraft as well. Visitors can sit in the cockpit of a Navy F-4B that was used in the 1980s ABC television series Call to Glory when cockpit scenes of the F-4 were needed. The Grumman OA-12 Duck on display in the Cold War Gallery appeared in Murphy’s War, a 1971 film starring Peter O’Toole. The 1965 film The Flight of the Belle, nickname of a B-17F during the World War II Phoenix starred Jimmy Stewart and featured the Memphis that inspired the making of two motion pictures: a 1944 documuseum’s C-82, which is currently undergoing mentary film, Memphis Belle: A Story of a Flying Fortress, and restoration. a 1990 Hollywood feature film, Memphis Belle. Showcasing Air Force people and equipment in Hollywood productions and highlighting famous service members helps the Air Force stay connected to the American public. “Many of these films, television shows and actors with connections to the Air Force are familiar to Americans,” Underwood said. “These programs highlight just a few ways in which the U.S. military shares its story with the public, reminding them of the military’s presence as

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National Quilt Museum Recognized

he National Quilt Museum (http://www.quiltmuseum.org) has just won its second consecutive TripAdvisor Award for Excellence, signifying that a new stitch has just been sewn in the fabric of the Museum's evolving reputation as a high-quality tourist destination and premium art museum. The award is given only to destinations that consistently achieve outstanding traveler reviews on TripAdvisor. The National Quilt Museum is a destination art museum that features quilt and fiber art. The Museum works to advance the art of quilting by bringing it to new and expanding audiences worldwide. The National Quilt Museum is the world's largest museum devoted to quilt and fiber art. A destination for quilters and art enthusiasts worldwide, annually the Museum receive more than 110,000 visitors from all 50 U.S. states and over 45 foreign countries from every continent. Located in a 27,000 square foot facility in historic downtown Paducah, Kentucky, the Museum's three galleries feature exhibits of the finest quilt and fiber art in the world. The Museum's vibrant and breathtaking exhibits are rotated 8-10 times per year. The primary gallery features quilts from the Museum's collection which includes over 400 works of art. The two other galleries feature unique and diverse traveling exhibits. Museum CEO Frank Bennett asserts, "This is a unique art form that everyone should experience personally to fully appreciate." The Museum offers three galleries of rotating exhibits with works by the most acclaimed quilt and fiber artists working today. In addition, its traveling exhibits can be seen at other museums and events. While the Museum has always been a must-see for active quilters, in recent years the audience of nonquilters attending the Museum has steadily grown. Mainstream media outlets outside of the art world have taken notice as well – with publications as diverse as Forbes and Southern Living covering the Museum, as 50 • Byways

well as a recent appearance in the form of a question on America's Favorite Quiz Show® Jeopardy! "Every day we see people experiencing the art form for the first time. They are amazed by what these artists can do with fabric," Bennett remarks. For more information, visit: http://www.quiltmuseum.org

Photos courtesy National Quilt Museum.


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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators and 13,000 travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540-477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062. ©Copyright 2013 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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Byways Oceans 2013  

Byways Ocean issue 2013, featuring the Atlantic Provinces of Canada, Virginia's coast, and the 5 U.S. Navy Aircraft Carrier Ship Museums on...

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