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Spring 2016

The Waters of Africa

Flowing through the majestic African landscape, the waterfalls and rivers of Africa roar like lions.

Amethyst Lake: A Gem in the Uintas Hope Rising from the Dust Luxury Camping


Explore. Dream. Discover. Online. Just like you can travel to the beach, you can explore every Stowaway article that has ever been written online at stowawaymag.com.

Photo by Stacy MacKay, www.mackayphotographystudio.com


Share your tales from your trips.

Enter the essay contest “Tales from the Trip” on stowawaymag.com.

Photo by Rick Harris

Find it in the “Story Contest” tab. Dive in!

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SPRING 2016

Above: Found in the English Lake District, Buttermere glows during the spring.

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Photo “The Other Way” by John McSporran

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Editor’s Note: Stepping Out Happenings: Rite of Spring: Flower Festivals Around the World Escapades: In the Beginning . . . Parting Shot: Overlooking Paris

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Getaways

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From Trash to Treasure Simple Gifts Journey to the Red Centre: National Parks in the Outback Amethyst Lake: A Gem in the Uintas La Belle Province: A Week in Quebec Thailand on a Budget

On the Cover: The thundering Victoria Falls splits the earth in southern Africa. Photo “Victoria Falls” by Carine06

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Features

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Antarctica: The Earth’s Last Great Wilderness Hope Rising from the Dust Turkish Delights Unique Lodging Options The Waters of Africa


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More than Corn Dogs: Food at the Iowa State Fair ¡Baile!: The Passion of Latin Dances Making Travel Work for You Four Corners of the Kitchen: Corn

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Life in the Sky A Grimm Path: The German Fairy Tale Route

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Volunteering in Paradise Traveling with Food Allergies The Seven Temples of the Sea Photo Contest

Insider

Culture

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Five Smashing London Bookshops

Field Notes

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Funded Travel Around the World with One Ticket Luxury Camping Uber Cool Taxi Alternative Wrinkle-Free with Room to Spare

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Adam McLain

Lisa MacKay

Mara Kellogg

Angela Whitehead

Jacob Rawlins

Cherie Top

Managing Editor

Art Director

Advertising Director

Social Media Director

Editor in Chief

Design Advisor

Publisher: Marvin K. Gardner Freelance Writers: Tiffanie Abbott, Hayley Brooks, Shanna Clayton, Acacia Haws, Katie Hollingsworth, Monika Johnson, Allyson Jones, Jenna Koford, Josh McFadden, Amber Norrell, Morgan Reese, Nikkita Walker, Christine Wilkins, Jordan Wright Freelance Designers: Tiffanie Abbott, Hayley Brooks, Katie Hollingsworth, Margaret Willden, Christina Wilkins

We would like to thank all of the volunteer freelancers who helped put this issue of Stowaway together. Without you, it would not be as awesome as it is. Thank you.

© 2016 Marvin K. Gardner 4045 JFSB, Brigham Young University Provo, Utah 84602 Printed by Brigham Young University Press

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Stowaway is produced as a project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, designing, and advertising. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”


editor’s note

Photo by Adam McLain

Stepping Out During the production of this issue of Stowaway, I had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Cambodia to document some work that the US State Department is doing. Cambodia has a peril-filled history; it is a country recovering from genocide and overcoming a past wrought with blood. This trip was my first time to travel out of the country. Before I left on that long airplane ride that took me from Salt Lake City to Seattle to South Korea to Cambodia, I had a moment akin to when Samwise Gamgee first leaves the Shire in the film The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring: “This is it. . . . If I take one more step, it’ll be the farthest away from home I’ve ever been.” I’m not one to travel often. The cost is prohibitive, and the time away from the work I have to do is scary to think about. However, this time I did travel. I took the

step, like Sam did, and I had a great adventure! This isn’t the right place to enthrall you with my adventures in spending a week working in Cambodia and the following week in Sydney, Australia. My purpose in sharing my travel is the idea of traveling a single step. Lao Tzu said, “The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” All it takes is one step out of the door and then you are on your way. You’re traveling. You are on a journey. You have made the decision to enter the world, and you are bound to learn new things, meet new people, and make amazing memories. When we take that step, most of the time we don’t know where we’re going. When I got onto that plane for Cambodia, I didn’t know that I would eat frog, see heartbreaking poverty, and experience true kindness. I never

knew that I would be sweating for 10-hour days in the sun or walking through religious ruins where monks used to search for peace. I never knew. I just knew I needed to step out. Adventures don’t always have a perfect path. But, there will always be a path to step out and onto. All that it requires of us is to take that step. So, do as I did: take that first step. Plan a trip. Do the trip. And then, like me, fall so in love with taking those steps that you have to do it again. I’m already planning my next first steps.

—Adam McLain Managing Editor

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Thanksgiving Point Tulip Festival The annual Tulip Festival at Thanksgiving Point is held in Lehi, Utah, each April through

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May. Visitors can stroll through the gardens and admire the 250,000 tulips found in every color imaginable. Other festivities include swing dancing, yoga, concerts, and a photography contest.

Feria de las Flores

The Feria de las Flores, a Colombian festival, was first held on March 1, 1957, and is now held annually in August. Tourists come from all over

Photo courtesy of Thanksgiving Point

“April showers bring May flowers”—and with them, flower festivals. These events are found in many different countries and cultures, so no matter where you are in the world, you’re certain to find a flower festival nearby and people with whom to celebrate the advent of spring.


escapades

the world to participate. Activities include folk concerts, a fireworks show, horse rides, orchid competitions, and car shows, all culminating in the parade of silleteros, or flower vendors. This parade acknowledges Colombia’s cultural heritage. In colonial times, slaves carried wealthy men and women on their backs

yosakoi, a dance blending traditional dances with modern music. In the evening, there are candlelit events that represent the hope for peace.

Jersey Battle of Flowers

Originally created to celebrate the coronation of King Edward VII of England (1901–1910), the Jersey Battle of Flowers, a parade of flower-covered floats, is now an annual tradition. It was so successful that it became an annual summer tradition on the small island of Jersey. Each float takes months to prepare, each competing to win the highly-esteemed Prix d’Honnour. Despite the fierce competition between floats, the parade fosters community unity and pride. The 2016 festival will be held August 11 and 12.

Left: photo by Alejandro Rojas; Right: photo courtesty of the Chanwilliam Tourism Assocation

Clanwilliam Wildflower Festival with wooden silletas. Now instead of people, they walk down the street carrying flowers, a symbol of Colombia’s hope of prosperity and a bright future. The entire festival celebrates the rich culture and history of Colombia, and it will next be held July 29–August 7, 2016.

Hiroshima Flower Festival

The Hiroshima Flower Festival takes place each May 3–5 in Japan. A tower stands at the entrance to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, completely covered with various types of flowers. Look out for oleanders in particular. This flower was the first to bloom after the atomic bomb, and it represents the hope that Hiroshima has for the future. There are song and dance performances held on over 30 stages. Flowery floats are exhibited during the parade while people dance

While August and September signal the end of warm weather and flowers for the Northern Hemisphere, the other half of the world is gearing up for spring. In Clanwilliam, South Africa, shows exhibiting local wildflowers have existed in one form or another since the 1940s. Today, the festival is organized by a local association and all earnings go to maintain the local church building and flower gardens. In addition to wandering through the cultivated wildflower garden, visitors can participate in art exhibitions, concerts, photography contests, a farmer’s market, and a lantern festival.

—Mara Kellogg

Left: The intricately decorated siltero was created in honor of Feria de las Flores’s 50th anniversary. Right: Local wildflowers on display at the Dutch Reformed Church in Clanwilliam.

Visit these websites for more information about these flower festivals. ▶▶

www.thanksgivingpoint.org/

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feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co/

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www.battleofflowers.com/

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gethiroshima.com/ hiroshima-flower-festival-guide/

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www.clanwilliamflowerfestival.co.za/

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Life, the Universe, and

Everything

Science Fiction and FantasySymposium

LTUE is a three-day academic symposium on all aspects of science fiction and fantasy. Comprising panels, presentations, and papers on writing, art, literature, film, gaming, and other facets of speculative fiction, LTUE is a place to learn all about life, the universe, and everything else you love. The symposium is, most importantly,agatheringplace for fans of our creative and innovative world to hang out and share their love of all things amazing, obscure, and even not quite real. ltue.net

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Getaways 12

From Trash to Treasure

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Simple Gifts

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Journey to the Red Centre: National Parks in the Outback

Sometimes, when humans leave garbage in nature, nature transforms it into something amazing. Welcome to Glass Beach.

Life is busy. There’s no way around it. Take a weekend off and go visit with those living a simpler life in the Pennsylvania countryside.

Adventures await in the mystical national parks of the Northern Territory in Australia.

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Amethyst Lake: A Gem in the Uintas

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La Belle Province: A Week in Quebec

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Thailand on a Budget

A short hike into the mountains reveals one of the most beautiful and serene lakes in the world.

Beautiful architecture? Stunning landscapes? Delicious cuisine? Go no further than Quebec, Canada.

International vacations sound expensive, but a trip to Thailand may be more affordable than you’d expect.

Photo by Justin Otto

The striking surface of Ayers Rock attracts people to Uluru National Park in Australia.

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from trash Glass Beach was originally a part of the land set aside for the Pomo Native Americans. It was later retaken, delegated as a military fort called Fort Bragg, and over the years softened into the quaint coastal town it is today. In 1906, the town’s residents designated a small bay along the coast as a garbage dump. Forty years later, they moved the dump’s location, but

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only after irrevocably changing the coastal environment. Nature took the byproduct of the dump and recycled it into a glittering coastline. The beach’s name is a reflection of its aesthetic, as its shore is mostly composed of small pieces of sea glass. Glass Beach is every child’s dream, an entire shoreline of treasure. Over the last century, the tide

has worn down shattered garbage to form the smooth azure and topaz glass that decorate the shore. The typical morning is foggy, the salt mist lingering low around the sea cliffs as if Fort Bragg holds its breath for the moment when the sun breaks through. As light shines through the fog, the sea glass glitters, a wondrous sight to behold.

Photo by bluesbby

If you were to take California State Route 1 past Half Moon Bay and beyond Yosemite, you would find yourself somewhere west of the Redwoods along a stretch of shoreline known as Glass Beach.


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to treasure Spread out among three different coves broken up by cliffs, Glass Beach is connected by a coastal trail. The trail is perfect for hiking and biking, along with an excellent horseback riding service in town that provides tours daily. One of the biggest complaints of Glass Beach’s visitors is the lack of sea glass on shore, caused by the effect of tourism on the beach. Smart planning helps prevent this issue. The best time to visit Glass Beach is after a good storm, when the tide has whipped up enough of the sea glass

hidden out in the water and covered the shore anew. To preserve the beach’s beauty, it is asked that visitors leave whatever sea glass they find for the next visitors to enjoy. If you’re looking for an experience beyond the liquid-color perfection that is the Glass Beach shoreline, don’t forget the tidal pools. After all, a California beach experience isn’t complete without the chance to poke at some sea cucumbers and search for starfish. There are a variety of ways to experience the Fort Bragg area

beyond the coast itself. Aside from Glass Beach, Fort Bragg’s most interesting attraction is its surrounding coastal gardens. When you travel between San Francisco and Mendocino National Forest, remember to stop by Fort Bragg and spend a day exploring its spectacular natural attractions.

—Nikkita Walker

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If you’re in Philadelphia to see the Liberty Bell (which means you’re really there for the cheesesteaks), take some time away from the city crowds and go to Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Rolling fields, horse-drawn carriages, country-style meals, and roadside mom-and-pop shops. The women wear bonnets and the men wear beards. They plow their fields and keep their only telephone in the barn for emergencies. Time travel? No, but it’s as close as you can get. It’s Amish country, a pastoral paradise in the center of Pennsylvania. It’s a fresh, unfamiliar culture in the middle of an area full to bursting with American history. There’s a lot to enjoy about the Amish, and they’ll welcome you with their Pennsylvania Dutch accents and impeccable manners. The best time of year to go is in the autumn during the harvest. Not only will the trees be turning to the most brilliant shades of red and yellow, but there will be loads of fresh produce being sold on every roadside

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farm. Of course, that’s the season most people want to be there. If you’re looking for a quieter vacation, the springtime is your best bet. Spring is planting season, and you’ll find tiger lilies growing like weeds along the sides of every highway. Can you smell the Shoo Fly Pie? It’s a must-have before you go. It’s a traditional treat: a sweet molasses pie with a cake-like consistency and a crumbly topping. And it’s absolutely kosher to snag a slice for breakfast. Once you get to Amish country, divide up your time wisely. Be sure to find a place where you can ride in one

Top: photo by Nicholas A. Tonelli; Right: photo by Christopher Paquette

Simple Gifts


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of those black carriages and watch the countryside roll by. Take time to stop at one of their little shops to get some home-baked goodies. (Lard cakes and thimble cookies—those are real things, I promise.) Look up any local auctions in the local paper. This will give you a better chance to rub shoulders with the Amish in a natural way. Be sure to bring a pair of good shoes, though; the local auctions are called “muddings” for a reason. Keep an eye out on Sunday. The Amish meet at one another’s houses for church meetings, and you could get caught in a horse-and-buggy traffic jam! Of course, that could be delightful in its own way. Just be careful not to frighten the horses. The

Amish gather every other Sunday for meetings (leaving the other Sundays for visiting family), and their sermons are given by members of the congregation chosen by the bishop. The Amish value humility, so no one gets advance notice about the sermon he or she will be asked to give. The idea is that everyone’s sermons are equally spontaneous. The Amish show their humility in other ways too. They dress in solid colors (usually black) so no one feels like they’re better than anyone else. A successful Amish business owner will even sell his business if he feels it’s becoming too successful. The Amish can be misunderstood quite often because their way of life is peculiar to mainstream America. For

example, the Amish don’t hate cars for being the devil’s machines or anything like that. Rather, they believe cars have the ability to take people too far from their families. Anything that would negatively impact family relationships is not acceptable to the Amish—hence the horse and buggy. Before you get too excited about your country holiday, remember that for the Amish this is their way of life. It’s also their religion. Their lives are centered totally on their family and their faith. There are lots of ways to show your respect to your new Amish friends. One thing that might surprise you: don’t take pictures of them. It’s not just about being polite; they feel it’s morally wrong for them to be the

Photo by Gerry Dincher

Previous page, top: A view of Lancaster County from Welsh Mountain. Current page, bottom: Mill Creek flows past quiet pastures, increasing the peaceful feel of the Pennsylvania countryside.

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subject of pictures or video recordings. It can be tempting for tourists, but a more respectful way would be to find a local book or postcard in a local store. They’ll appreciate the privacy from the world outside. After a week in Lancaster County, you’ll wish you could spend your days listening to the summer cicadas or watching the autumn skies fill with starlings. You’ll be taking home more than just memories of a gorgeous countryside and mouth-watering food; you’ll feel a deeper connection with your roots.

—Acacia Haws

Photography by Nicholas A. Tonelli

Top: Be careful when driving. The Amish travel by horse-drawn carriage on modern-day roads alongside cars. Bottom: Clouds are a common feature in Pennsylvania. Be prepared for occasional storms when you visit.

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getaways

Journey to the

RED CENTRE

National Parks in the Outback The moment visitors step into the Outback, they know. The Outback has been described as a feeling, rather than a specific geographic area. Whether through its beautiful outdoors or fascinating history, the Outback brings out the spirit of adventure in even those who least expect it.

Photo by Becky EnVérité

The Outback, consisting mostly of the central, arid areas of Australia, is well known for its Aborigines, rare animal populations, stunning natural splendor, and great stargazing. To showcase this beauty, the Australian government has created multiple national parks for visitors to enjoy. Three of the most notable national parks are Kakadu, Litchfield, and Uluru, all found within what is called the “Red Centre.” As the name suggests, this highlighted area of the Northern Territory gets its name from its dry climate and distinctive red soil. Home to one of the oldest cultures, the Red Centre offers visitors mystery, enjoyment, and Australia at its finest.

enjoy boat tours and safaris. Kakadu National Park is one of the few parks in the world to receive both World Heritage Area and UNESCO site listings. Within this park, over 2,000 plant species and rare to almost extinct animal species live in a range of geographic and climatic habitats from rainforests to floodplains.

Kakadu offers some of the best locations for fishing or bird watching at Two Mile Hole, Four Mile Hole or the West Alligator Head. With 300 fish species and more than 290 bird species represented in the park, visitors are sure to find something worth seeing. Tourists can also enjoy a nice hike or a lunch in the outdoors at

Kakadu National Park

In Kakadu National Park, the northernmost national park, visitors can

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Tjati the

Lizard The Aborigines of Australia deeply believe in the existence of supernatural beings in nature. A story of a small lizard, Tjati, explains the bowl-shaped holes found in the face of Uluru rock. Tjati was a small, red lizard that threw his kali, or curve-shaped stick, into the face of Uluru rock. Wanting his precious weapon back, Tjati dug desperately into the surface of the rock in an attempt to dislodge his stick. Tjati never reclaimed his stick, but the holes he dug can be seen

Top right: A lizard watches patrons at an Australian zoo. Middle right: Termite mounds abound in Litchfield National Park. Bottom right: A kangaroo observes visitors in an Australian wildlife park. Left: The lush landscapes invite tourists to visit Kakadu National Park. Far right: Unique rock formations amaze the visitors of Australia’s national parks.

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From left clockwise: photography by Rita Willaert, Duncan Rawlinson, Russell Charters, and Alexis Counsell

today, and form the hollows of Walaritja.


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the Gungarre Walk and the South Alligator picnic area. Kakadu also has one of the highest concentrations of aboriginal rock formations and cultural centers that provide free talks or tours for visitors to learn more.

Photo by Blake Chen

Litchfield National Park

For the adventurous and athletic, Litchfield National Park is a popular attraction that offers hiking, camping, and swimming. Swimming beneath cascading falls at Buley Rockhole, Florence, Tolmer, and Wangi, or fourwheeling among the ruins at the Lost City, the historic Blythe Homestead Ruins, or an old copper mine lead to exciting memories.

Ayers Rock

Another must-see is Ayers Rock in Uluru National Park. This iconic

rock formation is said to have been formed 600 million years ago. Visitors can hike around its base or up to the top of the formation. Uluru National Park’s breathtaking rock formations tell the aboriginal mythologies of the creation of the world and workings of otherworldly characters.

Pinching Pennies

Traveling to the other side of the world can seem expensive and daunting. But if you love the great outdoors, then going to the Australian Outback is worth it. There are many ways to travel to the Outback and still have money in your bank. Following are a few ideas to get your search started. Visiting during the Australian winter (our summer), between June and September, is recommended and is typically the best time to find cheap flights. Your best bet, however,

is booking flights as far in advance as possible. Staying in hostels and ride sharing by renting campers, or through services like Gumtree, Jayride, or hostel message boards can also save money. Gumtree is a local classifieds that helps connect people who are looking for cars, flat shares, and even jobs. Jayride, which comes from the combination of the words joyriding and jaywalking, works much the same way and is an online marketplace to book rides to travel. WWOOF is also a program worth looking into if you want to stay a little longer, but don’t have the funds to pay for housing. WWOOF stands for World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms, and connects volunteers with farms, which provide free room and board in exchange for farm labor.

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Amethyst Lake

A Gem in the Uintas

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and a half miles to Amethyst Lake. The trail makers must have been in a hurry here because the ascent has a challenging switchback. However, as you huff and puff your way up the trail, you are pleasantly rewarded with gorgeous views of the stream next to the trail, which cascades beside you into turbulent swirling pools. Eventually, the trail levels off in a high alpine meadow and follows the

Nature’s forces have been at work here.

Vector courtesy of vecteezy.com

The High Uinta Wilderness Area is an expansive piece of nature crisscrossed with adventurous hiking trails and filled with glittering lakes populated by beautiful trout. The most scenic part of it has to be the trail to Amethyst Lake. Given that the distance to the trailhead (at Christmas Meadows) is within two hours from Provo, Utah, you might expect to see more crowds. However, it’s likely that this short but steep hike keeps away many of the tenderfeet, saving this gem for the more intrepid hikers. The first three miles are not difficult as the trail follows the edge of a picturesque meadow and then crosses a babbling stream several times before taking a left turn at the trail junction. This junction is the beginning point of the second half of the hike, and it will test the stamina of most hikers as the trail climbs nearly 2,000 feet over the final three


Vector courtesy of Bill Abbott

course of the stream as it meanders along. Two and a half miles from the trail junction and after another short ascent, the trail leads to a nameless lake referred to on maps as B-24. If you are camping, pitch your tent here. At B-24, there are enough campsites for several groups, in addition to nearby natural springs for obtaining cool and refreshing drinking water (you should still filter the water) and seeing beautiful mountain vistas. Perhaps most importantly, campfires are allowed here but not farther up the trail at Amethyst Lake. The last mile of the hike takes you on a short climb above B-24 and into an open, rock-strewn meadow where the chiseled mountains will draw your gaze upward to where they form a cirque around the far side of Amethyst Lake. The trail ends at the shore of Amethyst Lake, and it is evident that

nature’s forces have been at work here as the cliffs surrounding the lake are made up of piles of rock worn away from the high peaks above sparkling turquoise water. If you like fishing, try your luck in Amethyst’s crystal-clear, blue-green waters. At almost any time of the day, you should be able to hook into a few of the brook trout that inhabit the lake. If you want fish for dinner, carry a few back to camp as the trout near B-24 are far more cautious. The hiking season is fleeting in the High Uintas (late June to early September), so before making your way back to civilization, make sure to take a long look at this stunning natural jewel.

—Tiffanie Abbott

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Outside the wall of Old Town, a must-see is the famed hotel Chateau Frontenac. This massive, castle-like structure boasts more than 600 rooms on 18 floors. 22 â–śspring 2016 Photo by Drew Coffman


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La Belle

PROVINCE A Week in Quebec

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Situated at the eastern end of Canada is the sprawling province of Quebec. The second-largest administrative area in the country, this predominantly French-speaking area of more than eight million residents is rich in history, deep in culture, varied in diversity, and plentiful in attractions.

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Because of its topography and geographical location, much of the province is sparsely populated. Still, la belle province (French for “the beautiful province,” as it is known), offers an impressive menu of things to do, see, and experience. Here are a few.

Old Town Quebec

The second-largest city in the province, Quebec City is about 143 miles (230 kilometers) northeast from Montreal, Quebec’s most populated city and metropolitan area. The capital city of the province, Quebec City sits on the St. Lawrence as the river begins to narrow.

Within Quebec City is an area known as Vieux-Quebec, or in English, Old Quebec. This historic portion of the city is the only existing walled and fortified city in North America. Visitors will be enthralled and enchanted with its cobblestone streets and European flare and feel. Old Quebec is bustling with shops, restaurants, and charm. Here, you can also check out the Citadelle of Quebec, a military installation constructed in 1673. Outside the wall of Old Town, a must-see is the famed hotel Chateau Frontenac. This massive castle-like structure boasts more than 600


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rooms on 18 floors. It is known for having accommodated stays from dignitaries and political figures from around the globe.

Lac Saint-Jean

Quebec has more than one million lakes and waterways, though many of these are tiny and have not been named. Perhaps the most notable Quebec lake is Lac Saint-Jean, located in the breathtaking Saguenay region of the province, 126 miles (203 kilometers) northwest of Quebec City. If you’re visiting Quebec in the summertime, this is an appealing

destination, especially if you’re an outdoors fanatic. Lac Saint-Jean offers gorgeous, picturesque views and provides opportunities for canoeing, fishing, rock climbing, and for simply taking a scenic stroll on the banks of the 27-mile-long lake. Wildlife enthusiasts may even spot black bears, moose, wolves, caribou, Canada geese, and peregrine falcons. Also near the lake are generous numbers of lodging options and places to eat, not to mention Saint-Félicien Zoo and Pointe-Taillon National Park.

Authentic Quebec Food

Speaking of eating, no one can visit Quebec and feel justified without at least sampling the local food scene. Probably the most unique and famous Quebecois dish is poutine, a palate-pleasing dish that consists of French fries liberally smothered with cheese curds and a gravy-like sauce. Just about every restaurant in the province will serve this tantalizing delight. You can even pick up a packet of sauce mix from a grocery store or convenience store and stir up your own concoction.

Charlevoix A scenic view of Montmorency Falls, Quebec City.

Less than a two-hour drive northeast from Quebec City, up the St. Lawrence River on the north shore, you’ll find the artist’s wonderland known as Charlevoix. Quebecois and visitors alike will flock to the eye-pleasing landscape and peaceful environment this region boasts. You’ll be swept away by the rolling hills, fjords, and bays. The area is ideal for skiing, snowboarding, and sledding in the winter; whale watching in the spring; hiking, biking, camping, or kayaking in the summer; and gazing at the brilliant colors dotting the countryside in the fall.

Others

A comprehensive list is difficult to compile, but if time permits, make sure to visit these sites: • Notre Dame Basilica, Montreal • St. Joseph’s Oratory, Montreal • Montmorency Falls, Quebec City • Gatineau Park, Gatineau • Forillon National Park, Gaspe • Canyon Sainte-Anne, Beaupre

—Josh McFadden

Photo by Luke Chesser

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THAILAND The methods of transportation you use can easily cut down on travel time and cost. Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) and Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) stations are among the most tourist-friendly and reasonably-priced methods of transportation in Bangkok, with prices ranging from 15 to 25 THB (less than $1) per one-way ticket. In addition to the MRT and BTS, other affordable means of transportation

include taxis, tuk-tuks, public buses, and motorcycle taxis. Pay specific attention to hotels which are in close proximity to main transportation hubs, such as BTS and MRT stations. Many hotels will also arrange transportation services for you at reasonable prices. Silom Embassy Row and the Sukhamvit are promising areas for affordable hotels, with May through September being the cheapest season. Remember to always

With a little research and planning, a destination vacation is within your reach, regardless of your budget. 26 ▶ spring 2016

check customer ratings on a reputable site before booking your room. Cultural attractions are a “must see” in Thailand; this encompasses Buddhist “wats” or temples. The most frequented temples are Wat Phra Gaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn, which also has a spectacular view of Bangkok). These three prominent temples are accessible by long boat along the Chao Phraya River and are renowned for their architectural beauty and unique historical significance. While in the area, be sure to visit Dusit Zoo and the Parliament House which encases many of Thailand’s royal treasures and art. When planning your trip to Thailand, don’t forget to

Photography by Stacy MacKay www.mackayphotographystudio.com

Amazing beaches, delicious food, and affordable prices—Bangkok, Thailand, has everything you want and more at an affordable price. Some people travel for as little as $30 ($1 converts to about 30 to 35 THB) per day.


getaways

budget shopping money. Chatuchack, Pratunam, and Talin Chin Markets are high-energy places with cheap souvenirs and food. Whether you are looking for traditional tourist souvenirs such as shirts and keychains, or for the more unique souvenirs such as homemade crafts, traditional clothing, or fine china, these markets are sure to have what you are looking for! Terminal 21, Siam Paragon, and Central World (popular shopping malls) may be out of your price range, but even window shopping can be a quality experience.

Delicious, authentic, and cheap Thai food can be purchased from street vendors. Thai food is a cross between Chinese and Indian food, with variations of curries, stir-fries, and noodle soups. Thai people also pride their food on touching all five flavors: spicy, bitter, sweet, salty, and sour. Areas such as Chinatown, Banglamphu, and Sukumvhit Soi 38 are known for their street food. To get the best (and safest) food for your money, go where the native Thais go, eat only food that was made to order, and avoid vendors near tourist places

(e.g., shopping malls). Generally prices range anywhere between 30 and 40 THB ($1 to $1.50) per meal for good street food. Talk about the best dollar ever spent! Your ideal trip to Thailand doesn’t have to break the bank. With a little research and planning, a destination vacation is within your reach, regardless of your budget.

—Amber Norrell

Previous page: Traveling by boat is a cheap and easy way for people in Thailand to get around. Top left: Ancient shrines cover the cities and countryside of Thailand. Bottom left: Tuk-tuks are the way to travel in Thailand. Right: Child wearing traditional Thai clothing.

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Features 30

Antarctica: The Earth’s Last Great Wilderness

Ever had the desire to do a handstand and feel like you’re holding up the world? You can do that in Antarctica and so much more.

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Hope Rising from the Dust

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Turkish Delights

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Unique Lodging Options

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The Waters of Africa

Why are we attracted to areas of the world where tragedies have occurred? What can we gain from traveling to these places?

Avoid the crowds and visit the spectacular, lesser-known sites in Turkey.

You don’t need to worry about boring hotels anymore. With these uncommon places to stay, you are bound to have an adventure to tell everyone at home about.

Discover more about the substance of life in the cradle of life.

Photo by Neil Howard

The Fairy Chimneys are one of many unique offerings that the land of Turkey has to offer.

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The Earth’s Last Great Wilderness

Almost twice the size of Australia, Antarctica spans an amazing 5.4 million square miles of land and showcases some of the world’s highest elevations. And despite its persistently frigid climate, Antarctica has welcomed visitors since the late nineteenth century. Whalers were the first to breach land in 1887, and there’s no doubt that their expedition stirred curiosity. Even the Royal Geographic Society urged exploration of the icy continent as part of their effort to “resolve the outstanding geographic questions still posed in the south.” Just over two decades later the first permanent station was built by scientific researchers from the Scottish

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National Antarctic Expedition. Though this monument stood as the only permanent station for forty years, many soon followed and exploration of Antarctica began in earnest, and today, the harsh, ice cap climate of Antarctica is home to state-of-the-art science. So why exactly is Antarctica such a hot spot for scientific research? It’s simple: Antarctica’s isolation makes it arguably the most untouched region of any in the world. Far from the frozen wasteland some may think it, Antarctica is a pristine natural laboratory—a scientist’s dream.

Tourist Wonderland Many believe that Antarctic visitors are primarily interested in scientific

exploration, and that’s not incorrect. Antarctica carries the promise of untapped potential; for the same reasons that scientists are drawn to its purity, tourists are as well. Jonny Stark, a researcher on the Casey Station in the late ‘90s, participated in a live online chat with anyone curious about living in Antarctica. Online users asked questions, and the researchers answered them in a chatroom on October 9, 1998. One person asked about activities in Antarctica, and Stark replied that he doesn’t get bored. “There’s always plenty to do, outdoors and indoors,” he said. “Outdoors I go snowboarding,

Photo by Ronald S. Woan

Fly in a helicopter. Hike to a beautiful view. Snowboard and ski. These outdoor activities seem standard to a variety of travel destinations. But add snowshoeing over untouched, snow-white flatlands, hanging out with colonies of penguins, and escalating up icebergs, and your vacation takes a sharp turn—a sharp turn south. Welcome to Antarctica.


by Jenna Koford and Morgan Reese

Photo by Eli Duke

Preserving Antarctica is an active endeavor. skiing and on trips to field huts nearby to see wildlife and icebergs.” Stark wasn’t the only one with a recreational interest in Antarctica. When on-land activities include camping, skiing, wildlife watching, and mountaineering, and sea-based adventures involve kayaking, paddle boarding, and scuba diving, it’s not hard to imagine where Antarctica gets its charm. Megan Gorton is a Utah Valley University student from Eagle River, Alaska, majoring in exercise science. Gorton has created a bucket list of life adventures and activities she hopes to complete, and item number 70 on her list stands out from the rest: do a

handstand in Antarctica so it’s like I’m holding up the world. Gorton was inspired by watching “The Buried Life,” a television show about four men who dropped out of school to accomplish their own bucket-list items and help others accomplish their own adventures. Gorton said the show made her feel

sentimental, like she hadn’t done anything exciting in life. She then bought their book and read, “do a handstand in Antarctica so it’s like holding up the world.” And the idea stuck. National Geographic posted a photo of a scientist in Antarctica doing

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PENGUIN

POST OFFICE Port Lockroy has long been used for whaling and scientific research, but in 1996, the harbor was renovated for a new purpose. Port Lockroy is now home to the Penguin Post Office, one of the greatest attractions for Antarctic tourism. Half of the island is reserved for the many local penguin residents while the other half houses a small

group of volunteer staff that operate the post office. During the height of cruise season, the post office processes over 70,000 pieces of mail sent by visiting tourists. The tourists get a unique opportunity to view their penguin neighbors, and send letters to family and friends from “the end of the world.”

www.ukaht.org/penguin-post-office

Though the SS Fleurus can rightfully boast the first cruising tours of the Antarctic, popularization of these expeditions came decades later. With his launching of the SS Linblad Explorer in 1969, Lars-Eric Linblad was named the father of modern expedition cruising in the Antarctic region. The Explorer was specifically designed for expert navigation of those frigid waters, allowing tourists to experience Antarctica more fully than ever before. Today, Polar Cruises, a popular tourism company, offers south sea cruises. According to their website, their ships are small, comfortable, and have ice-strengthened hulls for polar travel. Polar Cruises’ “on-board experts and naturalists offer lectures on wildlife, geology, oceanography, glaciology, and history.” Though Antarctica may be considered to be species poor, there is nothing meager about the wildlife of this region, and tourists see no shortage of Antarctic wildlife. Despite its extreme weather, Antarctica is home to many flourishing species of penguins. On-land expeditions often bring tourists close to colonies of emperor, rockhopper, chinstrap, and king penguins.

Left: photo by Tak; Right: photo by Christopher Michel

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a handstand in 1996, so the adventure has been around for quite some time. “There are cruises to Antarctica so I know it’s actually obtainable,” Gorton said. “One day it will happen because I’m already from a cold place, so why not go to the other end of the earth to visit another cold place?” Though she says she doesn’t know more than the average person about Antarctica, Gorton would “totally” go on a vacation there. “I’d love to get a sun tan from the reflection of the sun off all the snow. Or maybe see a penguin. Plus on the way to Antarctica, I can visit a whole ton more of the earth I have yet to see.” Tourists have been hungry to see Antarctica for decades. In the 1970s, tourists first discovered that no window-seat view would ever exhibit such indescribable beauty as those of the Antarctic air tours and sightseeing flights. Flights took off from Australia and New Zealand but never touched base on the icy continent. Today, Antarctica Flights offer sightseeing flights that take passengers from Australia across all of Antarctica in a single day. Passengers enjoy the breathtaking scenery from the warm cabin of the aircraft for as little as $1,200.

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Left: A helicopter ride provides the best view of Mount Erebus’s steaming summit. Right: Tourists often venture away from cruise ships on kayak adventures.

Antarctic waters are brimming with pods of orcas, humpback whales, fur seals, icefish, and more. Venture out onto these brash waters and you just might be greeted by curious sea-dwellers.

Left: photo by jeaneeem; Right: photo by Barry Thomas

Explorer Destination

Sea kayaking is said to be the pearl of all Antarctic activities for tourists, as it offers an intimate experience with Antarctica’s wild side. Gliding among the drifting ice and glacial bays has been called “humbling” and is heralded as the “perfect addition to any Antarctic adventure.” Kayaking through the frigid waters, tourists carve their own paths past high glacial walls of sparkling ice. Glaciers carve large slabs from their mass as they wend their way about the gelid sea. And kayaks and glaciers aren’t the only drifters; often afloat these majestic waters are lounging seals, engaged in the Antarctic version of pool-float sunbathing. New Zealand’s Expedition Travel Company’s Heritage Expeditions offers intimate, 50-passenger cruises

with expeditions up to two weeks long. At their steep price of nearly $19,000 per passenger, Heritage Expeditions offers what other cruise companies don’t: in the specifically designed ice-strengthened Spirit of Enderby, passengers journey into the rarely-seen Ross Sea. Stretching so far that it nearly disappears into the horizon, the Ross Ice Shelf is a must-see for visitors to Antarctica. When tourists travel by ship in the early morning hours, they can see a cold layer of air just above the waters obscuring part of the shelf, creating the illusion that this icy mass is floating above the water. Ross Island, the nesting ground for nearly half a million Adélie penguins, remains the southernmost reachable Antarctic island. The island was formed by four volcanoes—yes, Antarctic volcanoes—the most notable of which is Mount Erebus. Though it may be only the second tallest Antarctic volcano after Mount Sidley, Mount Erebus is Antarctica’s most active volcano, the truest pairing of fire and ice. Roaming across the landscape, tourists observe exceptional phenomena. From

beneath the frozen crust, steam rises from the tops of ice fumaroles, towerlike structures that stand as sentinels of the frosty expanse. But these icy giants aren’t the only distinguished stop on this cruise. Touring Antarctica in mid- to lateJune likely assures visitors another experience exclusive to this region. Solar flares release particles and electromagnetic energy toward the Earth, causing the phenomenon known as Aurora Australis, or the Southern Lights. Often magenta and green in color, these intense solar bursts manifest as soft, luminous sheets of mesmerizing iridescent light. With such magnificent opportunities unique to this continent, it’s no wonder that tourist traffic to Antarctica is steadily increasing. According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) statistics for the 2000–2001 season, there were 12,248 seaborne and land-based tourists travelling to Antarctica. By the 2014–2015 season, that number had tripled to a staggering 36,702 tourists and counting. This recent influx of visitors has not gone unnoticed either. The Antarctic

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could have a largely negative impact on Antarctica—but it doesn’t have to. It only takes the delicate crunch of one step onto the crisp Antarctic snow to understand why this landmass is considered so precious. Swan is leading a group in early 2016 to tour the land of Antarctica. The group is essentially a group of international tourists, much like any other, but these particular tourists will be exploring Antarctica while learning about responsibly caring for this magnificent part of Earth. AdventureSmith Explorations’ Carbon-Free Cruising campaign is just another way that Antarctic visitors are working to reduce adverse human effect on this snowblanketed expanse. These measures

allow tourists to experience the wonders of Antarctica as unobtrusively as possible. Tourists of Antarctica return with an abundance of adventure stories, but, more than the adventures themselves, tourists arrive home struck with awe. It is the potential of the vast unknown, the indescribably beautiful wild— the thrilling idea of an otherwise humdrum handstand—that makes Antarctic tourism truly remarkable. So take a boat, fly in a plane, walk from one pole to the other: whichever way you get there, the only way to really know the wonders of Antarctica is to experience it for yourself.

From left: photography by Ronald S. Woan, Mackay Savage, and Tak

Treaty has imposed sanctions on anyone traveling to this uniquely unspoiled landmass in an effort to maintain Antarctica’s scientific and ecological value. Their basic rule of thumb? Avoid disturbing the wildlife and enjoy your Antarctic journeying. Robert Swan, a living legend for being the first man to walk both the north and south poles, promotes the standards that the Antarctic Treaty represents. Swan is founder of the movement 2041, a movement aiming to keep the Antarctic Treaty protecting Antarctica from exploitation. In his TEDx speech, Swan says, “We should fight, fight hard for this one beautiful, pristine place left alone on Earth.” Tourism


Hope Rising from theDust Photo by Bill Abbott

by Tiffanie Abbott

A place can tell a million stories. A building, the landscape, the ground beneath your feet seem to absorb all of the emotion—the pain, the anger, the suffering—of the past. Sometimes if you just stand still and try to listen to the voices of history, you’ll hear them tell their tales. Sometimes, when a place bears a million stories, a million voices wash over you—all begging for you to listen to their story. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 35


The House of Terror

One of the most visited buildings in Budapest is the House of Terror museum. Initially, this building had a relatively unassuming exterior, but because of its gruesome history as a palace of torture throughout World War II and the Cold War, it is now adorned with a metal awning with the word “terror” cut out of it. It has since been turned into an informative and moving museum with exhibits that educate patrons on the horrors that occurred within the building. The House of Terror terrorized Hungarians for decades across two political regimes. During World War II, it was home to the Gestapo-like Arrow Cross. At that time, many Jews were held and later executed there. In addition to the terrible atrocities that occurred in the House of Terror during World War II, what happened afterwards during the Soviet Era was just as brutal, more widespread, and lasted many more years. Much of the terror described in the museum refers to this second period—much less known to most Westerners—when the secret police imprisoned approximately one person from every third family in Hungary. Many of these prisoners were tortured and some were murdered. The rooms in the House of Terror are decorated to tell the stories of those who were imprisoned, tortured, and murdered. One room explains how hundreds of thousands of Germans were deported from their homes in Hungary, and Hungarians from other eastern European countries were forced to resettle in Hungary. Other rooms display Soviet propaganda and also show how those who attempted to practice their religion were mistreated. Near the end of the tour, a dark elevator lowers visitors to the basement while showing videos of what happened to some of the unfortunate souls who were imprisoned there. The chilling scene in the basement

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Top: The House of Terror is located in the middle of Budapest, between busy streets. Bottom: To remember the atrocities of the Cambodian Genocide, Cambodians have filled commemorative shrines and sites with skulls.

induces agonizing sympathy for the victims that once suffered as they awaited unfair death sentences while housed in incredibly small cells. The last few exhibits of the museum—featuring the glorious and long-awaited celebrations that took place when the Soviets left in 1991— entice sighs of relief as they provide a hopeful ending to the tragic history of the building.

The Killing Fields

Only nine miles away from Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, lies a shrine made of around 8,000 skulls and skeletons—victims of the Khmer Rouge. In what would otherwise be a series of unassuming fields, the bones of only a fraction of the political regime’s victims serve as a grim reminder of the region’s troubled past. Immediately after the end of the Cambodian War in 1975, a


communist regime known as the Khmer Rouge took power. Over the regime’s four-year rule, the leader of the group, Pol Pot, and his Khmer soldiers carried out a mass genocide. In a short timeframe, the regime murdered an estimated 1.7 million people—around 21 percent of the Cambodian population. Nearby the fields is the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, which was where most prisoners were held before they were executed in the fields. The building was formerly a school, but when the Khmer Rouge took control, the sounds of children playing happily turned to anguished screams of the tortured. Similar to the horrific camps of the Nazis in Europe just thirty years before, Tuol Sleng became a prison, a center of torture, a lab of cruel medical experimentation, and a factory of execution. The pictures and exhibits inside the museum are shocking, but there is little that can compare to the sight of the thousands of skeletons arranged

in the fields to pay tribute to those slain there. The sheer number of skulls on display stuns visitors into a silent, somber mood. A slow walk through the fields triggers thoughts of the suffering, the pain, and the anguish of those killed in Tuol Sleng. All of it is almost overwhelming. In this warm, tropical country, these fields have been marked by death. But as tourists return to the bustle of Phnom Penh, they witness a country of people who have not forgotten their grief but have chosen to move past it and look toward a bright future.

Pearl Harbor

No trip to Hawaii is quite complete without a visit to Pearl Harbor to pay respects to the fallen sailors of 1941. In the midst of a beautiful island paradise are the various memorials commemorating the sacrifice of those who fought to protect the naval base when it was attacked. On December 7, 1941, just before 8:00 a.m., Japanese planes attacked

Pearl Harbor, the home of the U.S. Navy’s Pacific Fleet. The fighting lasted around two hours, but the ambush resulted in the deaths of over 2,000 American sailors. During the attack, the USS Arizona exploded and sank, taking those aboard down into the harbor with her. Visitors today can take a short boat ride to a memorial standing over the wreckage of the USS Arizona, which is the most moving part of the exhibits and other monuments erected in honor of the fallen sailors. Standing by the railings of the structure, visitors can look into the aquamarine water and can clearly see different parts of the sunken ship. This evidence of tragedy creates an ambience of great reverence that washes over visitors as they realize that this is a watery grave, a marine cemetery to those who died here. Guests who look closely can see an unnaturally colored shimmer to the surface of the water near the ship. The ship still leaks oil and gives the

Top: photo by Chris Price; Bottom: photo by istolethetv; Far right bottom: photo by JEB

Below: Pearl Harbor walkway over a see-through floor allows visitors to see sunken ships.

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surrounding water a permanent sheen—a perpetual reminder of the tragedy that occurred here almost 75 years ago. Yet the shining sun of a gorgeous Hawaiian day fills visitors with a sense of hope that we can bury our sorrows and move forward.

Auschwitz

The Polish city of Oswiecim is the somber location of one of the greatest tragedies in all of mankind’s history. Some 37 miles away from Kraków lie the infamous three compounds that make up the dreaded Auschwitz. The well-known gate with the words reading Arbeit Macht Frei (“work will set you free”) greets all who enter the first camp. As with many of these sites, the various

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buildings in the camp have been turned into exhibits to tell the tale of those who were interned there. Throughout the buildings are huge collections of personal possessions the Nazis stole from the prisoners: shoes, suitcases, glasses, combs, pots, and pans. Some of these collections fill enormous storage containers but represent only a fraction of what was taken—perhaps a few days or a week’s worth of stolen goods. By far, the most unforgettable exhibit is the huge room of human hair, cut from those murdered in the gas chambers. Even visitors with no familial or personal ties to the Holocaust are moved to tears by the sheer magnitude of the suffering that occurred there. Occasionally, groups of Jewish teenagers join together to honor their

ancestors by singing in Hebrew while visiting the different sites. Their youthful voices of today mix with those of the past in a chorus of emotion. Visiting tragedy-stricken sites invites a somber reverence for the suffering and sacrifices of those who lived there. Being where these victims spent some of their last moments connects the present with the voices of the past. As you tour these sites, look at their pictures, read their names, and hear their stories. Listen as their voices speak to you through the rising dust.

Top: photo by Michele Meyer; Bottom left and right: photography by Bill Abbott

Top: The remnants of the Pearl Harbor attack graze the surface of the water at low tide. Bottom left: Detainees in Auschwitz were kept behind barbed wire so they could not escape. Bottom right: A room in Auschwitz where prisoners slept, ate, and did recreational activities.


Turkey is a land laden with a mystical heritage. Some of that may come from its colorful history and cultural flavor, but some of that enchantment comes purely from the land itself. Turkey is rich in natural wonders, especially in sites such as Pamukkale, the Valley of the Fairy Chimneys, the Armenian Highlands, and the Aegean Sea. Many of these natural wonders remain well-kept secrets off the beaten path. The beaten path would typically lead to the urban sites of Ankara or Istanbul. But in this case, sticking to the beaten path would mean missing out on some breathtaking landscapes. Of those unique locations, Pamukkale easily crowns them all. Pamukkale is a natural wonder, a gem of geological formations, recognized for its pristine natural beauty around the world. It is a World Heritage site, prized for its hot springs and deposits of the carbonate mineral travertine. The travertine deposits give the rocky formation a

crystalline, white appearance, matching its name, which in Turkish means cotton castle. Hot springs flow across and through Pamukkale, pooling at seventeen intervals like terraces across the high face of the formation. They closely resemble infinity pools found in high-end neighborhoods, only they’re pure white and on a cliff face. When the pools reflect the sky, especially the sunset, the effect is stunning. There has been some trouble with maintaining the purity of Pamukkale, so shoes are no longer allowed around the pools. But who would want to miss walking, or even wading, through those glistening hot springs? Not many who have visited in the last several thousand years have been able to resist the urge. Though only some of the smaller pools are open for use now, they remain deeply satisfying. Most of the year, Pamukkale is temperate and warm, but not all

of Turkey blushes under those soft Mediterranean breezes. Some of the harsher environments have a mysterious beauty of their own, such as the Valley of the Fairy Chimneys in the Cappadocia region. Geologists would more accurately refer to the Fairy Chimneys of Turkey as hoodoos. They are magnificent spires of desert rock rising from about 5 feet to almost 150 feet. They form in areas where there has been volcanic activity in the past. A harder type of rock on top helps to preserve the softer sedimentary rock, called mudstone, beneath it. The result is a valley full of rock towers, thin and spindly, with points on top as if they were the chimneys of some mythological desert creature. The erosional patterns on the Fairy Chimneys give them a silhouette similar to that of totem poles. They taper upward from the ground with essentially the same thickness from their base to their pinnacle.

Turkish

Delights

by Acacia Haws www.stowawaymag.com â—€ 39


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Mesopotamia, a land acclaimed as the cradle of civilization. The climate in the Highlands is somewhat cold and arid, but this has allowed pieces of a bygone world to remain nearly unaltered. The bones of Neanderthals have been uncovered there as well as many relics of civilizations that thrived alongside ancient Sumerians. The rural threads of civilization that continue do so in the same way as they have done throughout the ages. Such experiences could not be found in Turkish cities. Among the pistachio steppes in the Highlands, the ancestors of many other familiar plants can be found growing in the wild, including apricots, almonds, pomegranates, plums, and walnuts. Some animals, such as the Persian fallow deer, remain very similar to how they would have been in prehistoric times. Others, such as the striped hyena and the Basra reedwarbler, are endangered.

Photography found on pixabay.com

The land around the Fairy Chimneys is intriguing as well. They are found in the Cappadocia region on a high plateau bordered by the Black Sea, the Armenian Highlands, and the western plains of Turkey. The Highlands in particular tend to be overlooked by tourists. The Armenian Highlands are often associated with the Armenian Genocide, which took place during World War I, but the Highlands contain some incredibly beautiful secrets as well. They originally formed when two tectonic plates— the Arabian plate and the Iranian plate—collided, creating fold-shaped hills and mountains. The far eastern parts of the Highlands are still too close to contested territory in the Middle East to make for a comfortable tour, but the Zagros Mountains still offer excellent views and discoveries. These mountains, which can rise as high as 18,000 feet above sea level, border the flatlands of

These and other natural wonders in the Armenian Highlands appear in an isolated part of the world, yet their serene isolation stands in stark contrast to overcrowded metropolitan centers. But there are some advantages to being near these metropolitan centers. One of the natural wonders a little more conveniently oriented is the Aegean Sea, and it rests in all its Mediterranean glory on the western border of Turkey, the opposite side of the Armenian Highlands. The Aegean Sea is home to many islands, including Crete and Rhodes, that fill in the distance between Turkey and Greece. The islands that belong to Turkey are Imbros and Tenedos. These names are not as familiar as their Grecian cousins, but they hold a comparable wealth of natural wonders and culture. According to legend, the stables of Poseidon’s winged horses were situated between the islands of Imbros and Tenedos. In antiquity, Imbros was the seat of an Athenian colony. Besides an abundance of history, including a castle, there are beaches to enjoy, wooded areas to explore, and small Turkish villages where many kinds of produce are harvested. There is even an extinct volcano and an underwater scuba diving park, which hold a lot of potential for new ways to enjoy nature. Conveniently, an airport is currently under construction on the island of Imbros. Tenedos was named for a hero in the Trojan War. The touch of antiquity has certainly left its mark on this island. It is most well known for its red poppies and its abundance of fish. There is a ferry that reaches Tenedos from Istanbul. On each of these Aegean islands exists a mixture of Turkish and Greek tradition. And nowhere is the tradition of balmy summer beaches kept more completely. Not all of the places to visit in Turkey are in bustling marketplaces


or noisy fishing docks. Many interesting sites slide into the backdrop of tourism books, but these quiet gems hold their own when individuals seek them out to unveil them. There are places like Pamukkale that invite awe, places like the Fairy Chimneys that provoke curiosity, places like the Armenian Highlands that suggest timelessness, and places like the Aegean Sea that offer tranquility. When you think of Turkey, think of those places too. Don’t be in so much of a hurry that you miss out on some of the most splendid delights of Turkey.

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UNIQUE

LODGING OPTIONS By Jordan Wright A large map of the world, plastered with clusters of brightly-colored sewing pins, hangs in the home of 73-year-old Myrna Towers. Each pin marks a place that Towers, her husband, Dave, or one of their six children has visited. Myrna and Dave have traveled extensively, and have lived in Great Britain, Cambodia, and Hong Kong. What the map does not show, however, is where they have slept on their travels. A cabin on the African savanna, a chateau in the Alps, and a hut in Mexico are only a few. “If you stay in Best Westerns everywhere you go, you’ll have a very typical trip,” says Towers. They are always on the alert for rare lodging opportunities.

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“If you stay in Best Westerns everywhere you go, you’ll have a very typical trip,” says Towers. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 43 Photo by Jake Hills


An internet search for “places to stay in . . .” will produce a long list of standard accommodations ranging from five-star hotels to low-budget options. Some people choose the more adventurous route of hostels, and search for clean beds and community perks on www.hostelworld.com. Others look even further: asking locals, slipping the word “unusual” into their internet searches, and perusing the less-popular tourist guidebooks. For Towers and fellow travelers, looking beyond the standard hotels and hostels has led to very memorable vacations.

Visitors spend one night of their tour in individual or couple tents on the banks of the Amazon River. Because the primitive campsite is a two-hour walk from any buildings and surrounded by rainforest, guests have an excellent chance of spotting monkeys, anteaters, and other wildlife. The trip includes excursions through the jungle and on the river itself, swimming with piranhas, and searching for caiman (a cousin of the alligator). Meals are cooked over an open fire. The full five-day program (one night in tents, the others in ExplorTambos lodges) costs around $1,400.

On Land

On Sea

One of Towers’ favorite lodging experiences was staying in an old windmill-turned-bed-and-breakfast near the city of Prague in the Czech Republic. Originally built with wood in 1277, Pension Větrník (“Windmill Hotel” in Czech) was a working windmill for 500 years. Now the mill has been rebuilt in brick and stone, and the windmill blades are no longer on display, but patrons still experience the history of the place, as well as very personal hospitality from the owners. “We got there late in the evening and they still fired up the kitchen to fix us a tasty stew and homemade bread,” says Towers. “We loved the homey atmosphere.” There is also a bus stop within walking distance of Pension Větrník, so visitors can easily travel to the old city. Nightly rates vary from $60 to $125, depending on the season. For younger travelers like 23-yearold Eden Cope, the best alternative lodging is whatever is least expensive. Often this means a sleeping bag in the airport, but tents are not out of the question. “There was a time when I camped in a tent in Höfn, Iceland,” Cope says. “The sky never got dark because it was June.” Tents aren’t just for thrift, however. The ExplorTambos Camp Program near Iquitos, Peru, includes a special tent option for travelers.

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Several years ago, Tom Monson, 49, spent one night on a junk in Halong Bay, Vietnam, with his wife and her parents. “It was probably the highlight of our Vietnam trip,” remembers Monson, whose favorite word to describe the fog-shrouded Dr. Seusslike mountains is “magical.” Meals on the junk featured fresh seafood and the tour included a kayak trip to a neighboring cave. “The accommodations were very rudimentary,” warns Monson. “Hard beds, leaky roof. But it didn’t even matter. You were there for the unique experience.” Junk tours cost anywhere from $40 to $150 depending on the tour company, the size of the group, and the number of nights. Monson suggests a one-night tour, especially if traveling with children, since activities on the boat are very limited.

In the Trees

With the rising popularity of treehouse hotels, anyone can have a “Swiss Family Robinson” adventure. One company, La Cabane en l’Aire, has a network of over 200 treehouses spread throughout France. Some are accessed by rope bridges, some by ladders, and some even by zip lines. Treehouses range from just

a few feet off the ground to over 60 feet (the average treehouse is around 30 feet). The luxury models have electricity and water, but some travelers prefer the rustic candlelight and dry toilets found in the more basic models. One night costs between $100 and $350, and each treehouse has specific age and capacity requirements.


Underground On a recent visit to Matera, Italy, Kim Kitley, 42, and her husband, Tim, booked two nights in a cave. L’hotel in Pietra (“Stone Hotel”) was originally a cave church dating back to 1300. Now it is a luxury lodging experience, costing $80 to $215. Fresh air is pumped into the otherwise damp cave suites, making them just as comfortable as any standard hotel room and a lot more fun. “We were glad we

made the effort to go to such a unique place,” says Kitley. “We would definitely recommend it to others.”

On Wheels To save money and time, many travelers choose to travel while they sleep. Night trains are particularly popular in Asia, where travelers can choose to sleep sitting up in a standard railcar, or get a decent rest in a more expensive sleeper car with bunk

beds—in essence, a hotel on wheels. Some young travelers in China buy the cheapest standing-room-only night train tickets and bring small fold-up stools to doze on in the aisles. Though not particularly pleasant, this last option is certainly a memorable experience and can be fun if traveling with adventurous friends. Of course, a hotel on wheels can be more than time-saving transportation. Wanderlust’s Gypsy Caravans in the Cambria region of the United

Spend a night on Halong Bay, Vietnam in a junk. Photo by Rosino

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Gypsy caravans lined up in a row at nightfall. Photo by Tiffany Terry

Kingdom offers unique “holidays” in traditional bow-top caravans called vardos. Guests ride in the horse-drawn caravan (and may even get a chance to take the reins) as a Wanderlusts owner leads them to a beautiful, secluded spot to spend the night. Each caravan has a woodburning stove, and the campsites have open fire pits for cooking. The caravan holiday costs $102 per night for two people, with an extra fee for each additional child.

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Finding Lodging Exploring the internet is the best way to find memorable lodging. Just change the query “places to stay” to “interesting places to stay” or “unusual places to stay.” Once you find an option, look up reviews on a site like TripAdvisor.com to make sure your dream vacation spot is really as dreamy as it looks online. If you prefer travel guidebooks, choose a less-popular series (i.e., not Lonely

Planet) to ensure that you won’t be crowded by tourists in the places you choose to stay. And of course, make friends when you travel. Locals and fellow tourists might know of places that you would never find in a guidebook or even on the internet. You will likely stay in hotels or hostels more often than not, but be open to trying a new experience when you stumble upon it. After all, each new adventure is a sewing pin in your map of the world. Make it count.


The Waters of Africa by adam mclain www.stowawaymag.com â—€ 47


Lion prides prowl on subsaharan plains. Cheetahs chase gazelles across stretches of long stalks of yellow grass. People bustle through busy cities of skyscrapers and mud huts. Giant pyramids standing tall against blue backgrounds with a no-nosed Sphinx in the foreground. Africa is a magical place where nature roams free alongside history and modernity. Among all of this rich culture flows life-giving rivers and waterfalls. Flowing through different environments, these unique rivers have provided man’s oldest ancestors with life and still provide for today’s current residents. Travel with us to Africa where we will flow down the Nile, across Victoria Falls, and over the Orange, Limpopo, Niger, and Congo Rivers to discover what this great continent has to offer.

Needling through eleven different countries, the Nile River is Africa’s most famous river. Kingdoms and empires grew and thrived near its fertile base, the flooding giving crops sustenance to live. Nowadays, the river provides life for the inhabitants along its bank as the countries surrounding it—Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Congo-Kinshasa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Eritrea, South Sudan, Sudan, and Egypt—incorporate it into a modern lifestyle by building dams. As the Nile stretches into Egypt, it stretches through the Valley of the Kings, where pyramids rise against the blue sky, the majestic Sphinx watches over travelers, and the stunning temples of Luxor and Karnak glisten in the sunlight. To really experience the Nile, the local tourist market has set up two types of cruises. The first is a comfortable cruise along the Nile in a boat that is a lot like a hotel. On these small cruise boats, tourists can enjoy the serene flow of the Nile as

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Previous page: Thundering down a cliff, Victoria Falls inspires awe in visitors. Above: The Nile River stretches through eleven different countries of varying landscapes, like Uganda.

they swim in pools, relax in hot tubs, and dance on small dance floors with either recorded or live performances. These cruises generally last anywhere between three to seven days, allowing the tourists to relax and enjoy the peace of the Nile. The other cruise experience is aboard a felucca, Egypt’s traditional Nile sailboat. Feluccas are generally small, wooden boats with one or two sails. During these trips, which usually range from short trips of several hours to multi-day skirmishes, tourists experience the Nile like a regular person, without any added amenities. For the longer trips, tourists sleep on deck beneath the Egyptian stars, enjoying the cool breeze wafting over the boat sides.

Victoria Falls: The Smoke that Thunders

Before tourists see Victoria Falls, they generally hear the torrential

pounding of water over rock. Located south of the Nile, between the countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls is classified as the largest waterfall in the world, soaring into the sky at 354 feet high, and spanning across the land at 5,604 feet long. Called Mosi-oa-Tunya in Tokaleya Tonga, meaning “the Smoke that Thunders,” Victoria Falls is an impressive sight to behold. Rainbows fly from the falling water as sun strikes the waterfall, glistening in the air. The falls can be enjoyed from various vantage points on viewing platforms scattered around the different levels. Victoria Falls is broken up into six gorges, where the water thunders down, swelling as it goes. At the top of Victoria Falls sit two islands: Livingstone Island and Boaruka, or Cataract, Island. A rock barrier near Livingston Island is formed during the low water season, generally between September and December. An eddy forms around this

Previous page: photo by David Brossard; Current page: photo by Rod Waddington

The Nile River: Flowing through History


Above: Victoria Falls flashes golden in the morning light. Many tourists try to get to the falls early to see rays of sunlight sparkle off the mist.

rock barrier called the Devil’s Pool. Adventurous tourists are able to swim in this pool, mere inches from the edge of the abyss.

Photo by Mario Micklisch

Orange River: A River of Diamonds

The Orange River is the longest river in the country of South Africa, flowing from the middle of the country west to the Atlantic Ocean. During the summer, visitors enjoy canoeing and rafting down the river. Because of the lack of dangerous animals along its bank and the increase of water levels, visitors and natives alike enjoy all forms of recreation on the water. The river is famous for its diamonds. The Eureka Diamond and the Star of South Africa diamond were both found near the Orange River in 1867 and 1869, respectively. These diamonds caused a diamond rush that has continued until today, with

professional mining companies mining diamonds along the route of the river. The Orange River doesn’t simply provide a river to adventure in. The river flows through Augrabies Falls National Park, named after the deafening falls that the river flows over. This park provides visitors with hikes to Moon Rock, a giant, domed hill that allows viewers to see the beautiful landscape around them; through the Swart Rante, foothills filled with black, igneous rocks that provide a stark contrast to the fertile environment of the park; and to Oranjekom and Ararat, two viewpoints that provide excellent views of the gorge at the bottom of the fall and allows visitors to see the abundant wildlife all around—especially the local verreaux’s (black) eagles. Echo Corner, another part of the park, is especially popular with kids as it provides a hike through the stunning scenery, and

Accessing the Falls Both Zimbabwe and Zambia allow day trips to Victoria Falls, requiring only a visa obtained at the border posts. The visa will cost anywhere from $60 to $90. The closest and best towns to travel to Victoria Falls are Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Maramba in Zambia.

Open Times ▶▶

Winter (15 May–14 August)

▶▶

6:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

▶▶

Summer (15 August–14 May)

▶▶

6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

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peaking in November, and finishing in May. Between May and September, though, enjoy marshland and lakes the size of Belgium that dot the boomerang-shaped river.

Congo River: The Heart of Darkness and Deliciousness

Limpopo River: Float through Cultural Africa

To avoid tourist-centric national parks, explore the Limpopo River, which provides an excellent way of getting to know a river in Africa without the crowds. Flowing through the countries of South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique, this eastward flowing river ends in the Indian Ocean. Be careful traversing this river, though, since crocodiles roam its mirky depths. In “The Elephant’s Child,” Rudyard Kipling describes the Limpopo River as “the great greygreen, greasy Limpopo River, all set about with fever-trees” where the “Bi-Coloured Python Rock-Snake” dwells. This river, although not a central tourist attraction, can give the more adventurous tourist a look at a calm African environment as they get to know the local culture.

Niger River: To Timbuktu

Ever heard the phrase “From here to Timbuktu?” and wondered if

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Timbuktu is even a place? Well, it is! And it’s right along the Niger River, Africa’s fourth largest river. Timbuktu provides tourists with the opportunity to visit the Djinguereber Mosque, a striking building of architectural ingenuity, and other mosques within the city. While there, take time to research the rich history found in the region and learn how empires rose and fell for hundreds of years around Timbuktu. Be aware that the river floods yearly beginning in September,

Above: Try to find the various species of lizard as they scurry and hide in the underbrush. Below: Enjoy Africa without the distractions of a tour guide by kayaking down the Orange River at sunset.

Top: photo by David Brossard; Bottom: photo by South African Tourism

ends in a place where a long-lasting echo can be produced.

The Congo River has been made famous through Joseph Conrad’s The Heart of Darkness. In it, he describes the Congo River as “a might river, that you could see on the map, resembling an immense snake uncoiled, with its head in the sea, its body at rest curving afar over a vast country, and its tail lost in the depths of the land.” Considered the world’s deepest river, the Congo is known for its vast amount of fish species and the gourmet cuisine—French and Congolese—found along the river trail. Africa’s diverse rivers and waterfalls provide something for every traveler, in whatever part of Africa they may be. Take time during your African travels to visit these sources of life-giving water and appreciate the beauty and majesty water brings to the world.


Cultures 52

Five Smashing London Bookshops

54

More than Corn Dogs: Food at the Iowa State Fair

The history, the accents, and the environment make London the top of every bibliophile travel bucket list. Discover five bookshops you will need to check out when you travel there.

When you go to the state fair, you need to always eat the delicious concoctions vendors create. Explore the unique food created at the Iowa State Fair.

56

ÂĄBaile!: The Passion of Latin Dances

58

Making Travel Work for You

60

Four Corners of the Kitchen: Corn

Dance through the history of Latin American dance techniques.

Money can always be a problem when it comes to travel. If you have serious wanderlust, learn about how working while you travel might be a good option.

Known as the American gold, corn has been used throughout the world ever since its discovery by European settlers.

Photo by Carol VanHook

The Iowa State Fair grounds provides its visitors with a lift to travel from one side of the fair to the other.

www.stowawaymag.com â—€ 51


5

Smashing London Bookshops

London Review Bookshop 14 Bury Place, London, WC1A 2JL The books found in the London Review Bookshop (LRB) range from fiction to children’s literature to poetry to travel. LRB customers love that it has the feel of a secondhand bookshop. To help enhance the cozy feel, the London Review Bookshop has a cake shop with one-of-a-kind, baked-toorder cakes. The LRB hosts at least one event a week. These events range from a monthly Late Night shopping, where customers get 10% off any book purchased that evening, to a World Literature Series, which includes translation and literary events that focus on various genres of foreign literature, such as crime fiction, picture books, and the Bible. At these World Lit. Events, the group members get to share what they know on the subject with an expert (scholar or author)

52 ▶ spring 2016

leading the discussion. If you would like to go to one of these meetings, get your ticket early. With only eight spots available per session, the tickets go quickly. ▶▶

www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk

five levels of books aren’t incentive enough, Foyles Bookshop at Charing Cross Road has a café where you can stay warm with a cup of English tea and enjoy that new book you just bought. The crowning attraction of Foyles Bookshop at Charing Cross Road is that it’s a book mall with plenty of space to lose yourself in a good book or two. ▶▶

Foyles Bookshop

107 Charing Cross Road, London, WC2H 0DT Foyles Bookshop at Charing Cross Road is the largest of the six Foyles Bookshops in London. If the

www.foyles.co.uk

Top: photo by Amanda Breann; Middle: photo by ptwo; Right: photo by Gwydion M. Williams

On the list of go-to answers for favorite things to do, reading is near the top for many people. In a bookshop (generally referred to as a bookstore in the United States), we find worlds we can live in for a season. The best London bookshops have many things to offer. For the purposes of this list, the credentials for a smashing (British slang for “awesome”) bookshop are a vast selection of books, an excellent atmosphere, and a diverse array of non-literary merchandise available.


From left, clockwise: Photo by Rick Rowland; Photo by derya; Photo by secretlondon123; Photo by Jean-Etienne Minh-Duy Poirrier, John Robinson, and Lucy Orloski

Daunt Books

83 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4 QW Daunt Books’s architecture sets the mood for its visitors with a beautifully arched stained-glass window and long main room. Daunt Books arranges its titles by country of origin, and because it doesn’t matter what type of book it is—biography, history, guide, or novel—finding the book or books you want becomes a journey. Daunt also sells book bundles, bags, and mugs. ▶▶

commercial. Persephone has a bookof-the-month gift option for up to 12 months, book groups, and an exclusive Persephone notebook with nearly 200 blank pages for writing or drawing. Upon entering Persephone Books you are taken on a ride of adventure by the books that reside therein. ▶▶

www.persephonebooks.co.uk

www.dauntbooks.co.uk

Gosh!

Persephone Books

59 Lamb’s Conduit Street, London, WC1N 3NB Persephone Books is a publisher and a bookseller. The publishing side prints books that are intelligent, beautifully written, and thought provoking, written by midtwentieth-century female authors. Every Persephone Book is covered in a simple gray sleeve, making them unique among the flashy and multicolored covers of today. The books appeal to busy people who want titles that are neither too literary nor too

1 Berwick Street, London, W1F 0DR If you love comics, Gosh! is the bookshop for you. Gosh!’s range of graphic novels is second to none, and it is always striving to source new and interesting products, no matter the genre. From translated European albums to mainstream superhero antics, compulsively readable manga to cutting-edge small press, and everything in between, Gosh! has got something for everyone. If you don’t want to miss a comic, you can set up a standing order, the ideal way to avoid missing favorite issues. You can let your inner geek out as you browse through the graphic novels Gosh! has to offer its customers. Gosh! brings out the inner child in everyone, young and old. ▶▶

www.goshlondon.com

—Angela Whitehead

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more than corn dogs:

food at the iowa state fair 54 â–ś spring 2016


“summer”

Photography courtesy of Iowa State Fair

Nothing says like a hot corn dog, an ice-cold lemonade, and a stroll along the midway at a state fair.

As one of the oldest and largest fairs, the Iowa State Fair is also perhaps the most famous. It was the inspiration for Phil Strong’s 1932 novel State Fair, which was followed by three movies and a Broadway musical. Each year, the Iowa State Fair draws over a million visitors with agricultural and technological expositions, carnivalstyle rides, musical acts, a life-size butter cow, and, of course, decadent food. Food has been a tradition at the fair since its earliest days. After all, the fair began as a venue for farmers to showcase the best of their harvests and their livestock. As the visitors gathered in the tens of thousands for the weeklong expositions, vendors provided food, snacks, and drinks. Because of the huge numbers of people, fair food was designed to be fast, inexpensive, and, most importantly, mobile. The corn dog, one of the quintessential fair foods, exemplifies this ideal: it is quick and easy to prepare, and it is made to be eaten while walking. In the past few decades, fair food has become more than a convenience; it is now an attraction by itself. According to Iowa State Fair marketing director Mindy Williamson, every year the fair holds a contest to determine new foods that will be highlighted during the fair. Vendors compete to submit the most unique offerings to a panel of judges, who determine which foods will make it to the fair. The final contest is determined by fairgoers themselves, as they sample the foods and vote on their favorites. The food contest has produced many interesting foods. Past

Top: One of the many food contests found in the state fair. Bottom: Corn in a cup, a contestant in the food contest.

submissions have included deep-fried butter balls, golden-fried PB&J on a stick, and fried nacho balls. In 2015, the three finalists were the Ultimate Bacon Brisket Bomb (smoked brisket wrapped in bacon with jalapeños, onions, and pepper cheese—it was also the ultimate winner of the contest), the Toasted Coconut Caramel Cluster (coconut, pretzels, and caramel dipped in chocolate), and a healthier option: Corn in a Cup (corn niblets, sausage, cheese, mayonnaise, butter, and lime mixed in a cup). In addition to the new foods, there are hundreds of other food offerings. Some vendors offer full meals, like

a beef brisket or pork chop dinner. Others provide the more than 75 items on sticks, including one of the Iowa State Fair’s most popular items: the pork chop on a stick (the stick is actually the bone on this specially cut chop). And others just aim for the unique, like the Hot Beef Sundae: a meal of beef tips, gravy, and mashed potatoes made to look like an ice cream sundae, complete with a cherry tomato on top. Many vendors provide quick treats or snacks, such as funnel cakes in many flavors (including pumpkin spice and red velvet), deep-fried everything (Twinkies, Oreos, various candy bars, nachos, pickles, chicken, cheese curds, and ice cream are only a few of the options). Some even offer options for the more health conscious fairgoers, like a good salad—on a stick. Recently, vendors have also begun to provide more niche items to cater to those with food allergies and sensitivities, like gluten-free corn dogs and food cups. There are also plenty of dessert options. New in 2015 to the Iowa State Fair are an apple pie on a stick, a deep-fried cherry pie, and a donut sundae. Add these foods to the already plentiful deep-fried treats and ice cream stands, and there will be plenty to satisfy any sweet tooth. The Iowa State Fair is much more than food, of course. But amid the spectacle of the annual exposition and the bustle of the midway and the livestock barns, the fair food completes the fair experience in unique, surprising, and delicious ways.

—Jacob Rawlins

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culture


¡

ailof Latine!Dances BThe Passion

One of the easiest ways to absorb rich Hispanic culture is by observing Latin dancing. Latin dances have developed over hundreds of years—some started as folk dances, some as competition dances, and some as social dances. Some were even meant to tell a story. Over time, many of these traditional dances have grown in popularity and form, spreading across the globe into national competitions. Regardless of where they came from or how they started, these dances all have one thing in common: Each gives the audience a little taste of Latin culture while also displaying incredible skill from the dancers.

Samba

The samba, originally from Brazil, perfectly encapsulates the hipswaying fun of many Latin American dances. This dance was originally a street dance at many Carnival celebrations in Rio and has evolved into a performance dance in many places (though it is still common at Carnival). Syncopated rhythms and “bouncing” action distinguish the samba from other Latin dances. The samba is one of the most exciting Latin American dances to watch and requires lots of energy to perform.

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Paso Doble

The paso doble originated in Spain and models the traditional bullfight. Unlike the samba, however, the paso doble is not a “party” or social dance; it is solely a performance dance. The male dancer represents the matador of the bullfight, and his female partner represents the matador’s cape, the bull, or a flamenco dancer, depending on the choreography. Thus, while the male spends the entire dance acting as fierce as possible—and trying to kill “the bull”—the female must strike a delicate balance between bull-like

rage and flirtatious grace. Unlike most Latin dances, the paso doble involves very little hip action and is much more focused on narrating the bullfight than on depicting frivolity and energy.

Rumba

The rumba is probably the most passionate of all the Latin American dances. It comes from Cuba, with strong African roots. The rumba commonly portrays a theme of “forbidden love,” and it incorporates many sensual movements. There are different


Top: photo by Pete Self; Bottom: photo courtesy of Wikimedia

Top: Latin dances normally require large dresses to spin as the dancers twirl across the dance floor. Bottom: Some Latin dances, like the samba, require elaborate dresses and backgrounds to be fully enjoyed.

styles of rumba, but all of them use exaggerated hip movements and passionate music to tell stories of love and lust. While the European style of rumba is danced to slow music and with mostly straight legs, the Cuban and American styles employ fast music and a more grounded, bentleg feel. But no matter where the rumba is danced, it’s sure to heat up a room and inspire passion in those watching. Although these dances differ in style and history, each one shares a special piece of rich Latin culture with its viewers. Whether you’re in Spain or South America, you can undoubtedly find opportunities to witness some incredible Latin dancing—and maybe even participate in it!

—Shanna Clayton

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Making Travel Work for You You want to see the world. You’re also broke. Is there a solution to this problem other than binge-watching Bollywood films? Yes! The solution is to make money, or at least break even, while you travel. Some of the most popular options are teaching English, working in childcare, taking a job in the airline industry, or doing some form of work exchange. TEACHING

a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u vw x y z

As English grows into a global language, countless organizations are working to match English teachers—even without previous certification or experience—with schools across the world. Mallory Siebers, 24, is currently teaching English in a “hagwon” (after-school academy) in Seoul, South Korea. The organization that Siebers works for, Adventure Teaching, pays for plane tickets, housing costs, and teacher salaries. The job can be difficult and demanding. “Moving abroad is a really big life change,” Siebers says. “And there are days when you’ll want to quit.” This is why Siebers recommends having valid, personal reasons for taking an international teaching job. Siebers’s own love of Korean pop culture is one of her reasons for teaching in Korea. She has loved being able to afford concert tickets for her favorite bands.

When Arizona native Tylene Nichols was 19, she applied to be an au pair on an international website. She was offered a job in Rivarossa, Italy, to nanny a family’s three daughters. Nichols paid for her own plane tickets, but her salary allowed her to keep her spending low while in Italy. Nichols traveled on weekends, and spent her free time during school hours in Rivarossa or neighboring Turin. “I could easily take a train or a bus into Turin and spend the day at museums or out with friends,” she explains. She particularly enjoyed her relationship with her employers. “I was able to become part of this family,” she says. “I did not feel like ‘hired help’ at all, more like a big sister.” She is planning a return visit to Rivarossa in the near future to introduce her Italian family to her husband and baby daughter.

Illustrations by Tiffanie Abbott

CHILDCARE


AIRLINE

“The job is great, if you can handle it!” warns flight attendant Kate Barry, 22. “Because it’s not just a job, it’s a kind of lifestyle.” Flight attendants work shifts at all hours and in all time zones, living in a constant state of jetlag. They deal with emergencies, difficult passengers, and a plethora of other stressful situations. For Barry, however, the crazy lifestyle is worth it. “I love being able to go all over the country and the world. I not only get paid to travel, I can also travel in my free time because of the flight benefits.” She recommends the job to anyone who is young, physically able, loves to travel, and is preferably single (since the job requires so much time away from home). “If you have a patient personality and can deal with highstress situations, this job is for you!”

WORK EXCHANGE

Websites like HelpX.net connect travelers with shortterm work in exchange for room and board. These jobs can include seasonal farm work, housekeeping in hostels, landscaping, etc. Korrin Cheatwood, 21, used work exchange to fulfill her dream of living in Ireland. She spent a month of her 90-day visa on a dairy farm, a month as a nanny, and a month traveling. Typically, no money changes hands during the work exchange program—it is a straight exchange where someone works for a place to sleep and possibly a few meals. Unlike the previous options, work exchanges won’t beef up your savings account, but jobs can be found anywhere, and you can move on whenever you are ready. Looking back to her time on the farm, Cheatwood realizes that she worked more hours than was fair (typical exchange is four to six hours a day), and that she should have just found another option. “This is your vacation,” she says. “If you’re not happy, you leave. That being said, I still recommend it. Overall, it was an amazing experience.” Another excellent form of work exchange is house/pet sitting. Sites like TrustedHouseSitters.com help pair up potential house sitters with locations worldwide. Being broke isn’t the end of your travel dreams—it is motivation to be creative and find ways to pay for travel as you travel. Working in a new country helps you meet friends and potential travel partners. You might even pick up a new language. So turn off the Bollywood film and book your ticket to India.

—Jordan Wright


Corn

Four Corners of the Kitchen

Photo by Liz West

When Christopher Columbus and his crew crossed the Atlantic Ocean in 1492, they expected to find the riches and spices of the West Indies. To their dismay, they returned to Spain without the treasures they had anticipated. However, one of their many discoveries impacted the world dramatically—the culinary world, that is. The explorers discovered gold in a form never before seen in the eastern hemisphere. The gold was enveloped by filmy, green leaves and had fine, yellow strands protruding from its tip. This kind of gold affected the world’s palate as it spread out from the Americas and worked its way into cultures around the world. Corn, the American gold, has been incorporated in recipes around the globe as appetizers, entrees, and desserts. The following recipes come from different countries, but all share a common ingredient: corn.

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culture

Top: photo by Jeff W. Brooktree; Bottom: photo by Lisa MacKay

1 cup milk ¼ cup butter, melted 2 large eggs 1¼ cups cornmeal 1 cup flour 1/4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1.

2.

3.

4.

▶▶

Heat oven to 400 degrees.. Grease inside of a 9-inch round pan or an 8-x-8-inch square pan. Beat milk, butter, and eggs in large bowl with an electric mixer or wire whisk. Stir in remaining ingredients. Continue stirring until flour is moistened (batter will be lumpy). Pour into pan. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm.

Adapted from www.food.com

American Cornbread 2 cans corn 2 quarts milk 1½ cups sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup coconut milk 2 tablespoons butter Cinnamon to taste 1. 2.

3.

Brazilian Curau

▶▶

Drain corn. Put corn kernels in a blender and blend into a paste. Combine corn paste, milk, sugar, and cornstarch in a large saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture begins to thicken. Add coconut milk. Keep stirring as it cooks. When the mixture thickens to a pudding-like consistency, stir in butter. Pour into a glass dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Let cool and serve.

Adapted from www.maria-brazil.org

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3 cups corn flour 1½ cups warm water ½ teaspoon salt (optional) 1 cup grated cheese (queso fresco or mozzarella) ½ cup refried beans 1.

2. 3.

4.

▶▶

Mix corn flour, water, and salt in a large bowl. Cover dough with plastic wrap for 15 minutes. Blend the refried beans until smooth. Form dough into balls. Shape each ball into a dish-like shape. Place filling inside and carefully pinch the dough around it, sealing the filling inside. Gently flatten ball into a disk. Lightly grease a heavy skillet and heat over medium heat. Place the pupusas in the skillet. Allow to brown on each side. Remove from heat and serve warm with hot sauce and cabbage salad.

Adapted from southamericanfood. about.com

Salvadoran Pupusas

1. 2.

3.

Indian Bhutta 62 ▶ spring 2016

Mix spices together in a shallow bowl. Heat grill or stove to mediumhigh heat. Place corn on grill and rotate it every 20 seconds to cook evenly. All the kernels will blacken to varying degrees. Remove from heat. Dip half of the lime in the spice mix. Rub the spice-covered lime all over the corn, squeezing lime juice while rubbing. Serve hot!

—Lisa MacKay

Top: photo by ceasol; Bottom: photo by travel oriented

1½ teaspoons cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon cumin powder 5 ears of corn, shucked 1 lime, halved Optional: garam masala, kala namak (Indian black salt), or amchoor (dry mango powder)


Field Notes 64

Life in the Sky

66

A Grimm Path: The German Fairy Tale Route

“Please put your tray up.” The words from the flight attendant are always dreaded when the airplane angles down. How do flight attendants live, though? Learn more through the life of Brooke Jacobson, flight attendant extradordinaire.

Travel back through your favorite childhood stories and visit the places that they are based on.

69

Volunteering in Paradise

72

Traveling with Food Allergies

74

The Seven Temples of the Sea

77

Photo Contest

Experience the Amazonian wildlife through service.

We’ve all had the worry of having an allergic reaction while abroad. Follow these tips to have a worry-free trip.

Monkeys, gods, and architecture unfold on the edge of the Indian Ocean.

Photo by John Carkeet

Although designed with a medieval look in mind, Neuschwanstein Castle was built in the nineteenth century and served no defensive purpose.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 63


e f Li

in the Sky

An adventure-seeker through and through, Jacobson has made it her mission to enjoy the beauty and wonder that this world has to offer. After backpacking five continents, singing on cruise ships, and

64 ▶ spring 2016

becoming a self-proclaimed “gypsy vagabond,” she decided to pursue an opportunity that would help her travel dreams reach new heights. Literally. Four years ago, a friend tried to convince Jacobson to apply to flight school with her. Despite her love of adventure, Jacobson’s first response was, “Serve peanuts and beverages all day? No, thank you.” Since then, a few things have changed. Jacobson has been serving peanuts and beverages as a flight attendant for four years. But she has learned that flight attendant life is not what it initially appeared to be.

Her experiences have allowed her to view the world from a new perspective: 10,000 feet above the ground.

Mixing Business with Pleasure

As an international flight attendant, Jacobson gets to visit various countries on a regular basis and gets paid to do so. Many flight attendants rave about the perks of being able to travel around the world for the first time. Getting paid to travel is a sweet deal. The airline pays for Jacobson’s hotel, food, and travel expenses in the cities she spends the night in. Instead of

Top photo by Citizen59; Bottom photo courtesy of Brooke Jacobson

For Brooke Jacobson, travel is a way of life. When she was sixteen, she kept track of her travels on a small globe. One day, her mom saw it and said, “Wow!” trying to say that she had been to so many places. Jacobson responded sadly, saying, “I know. There are so many places I still haven’t been!”


Illustration by Cherie Top

field notes

having to budget her living expenses, Jacobson only has to budget her time. With only 24 hours in a city at a time, she must be selective with the places that she visits. Most people who visit London spend days exploring the museums and famous landmarks that London has to offer. While Jacobson has visited these places, she now spends her stopovers in London (and most other places) soaking in the culture in unique, off-the-beatenpath sites. She often discovers these locations through recommendations from coworkers or natives of the cities she visits. Working with hundreds of people each day presents many opportunities to learn from people of many different backgrounds. Though many passengers let their travel anxiety out on the flight attendants servicing their flights, many seek advice and offer counsel. This advice has often led Jacobson to discover hidden gems in the midst of tourist traps. For example, not many people can say that they know where to find the best hummus spots in Tel Aviv. Her field of work allows her to explore the world at a deeper level as she sees it through the eyes of locals and other seasoned travelers. For Jacobson, travel just isn’t the same without a touch of spontaneity. As a flight attendant, she gets free flights to any location in the world. So what does she do when she’s off the clock? Travel! Of course, these free flights are through standby, so many times, plans fall through. One time, Jacobson made plans with some friends to meet up in Buenos Aires, but the flight was full, so she couldn’t make it to Argentina. Instead, she studied the departing flights board and made the most of her time by catching a flight to Istanbul, Turkey, instead.

you notice new things each time. Suddenly, the tourist traps plastered with shops selling the same trinkets aren’t as appealing as they once were. Ten years ago, Jacobson visited St. Paul’s Cathedral as a tourist. After a cursory glance at the cathedral, she said it was pretty and was ready to move on. Recently, she returned to visit the cathedral. This time, however, she left three hours later with a crick in her neck from gazing at the ceiling for so long. When Jacobson talks to people about her job, most assume that flying around the world is a dream come true. But Jacobson disagrees. It isn’t the flying that makes travel exciting. For her, it is all about the adventure. She said, “When something becomes too natural, it loses its excitement. The same can be said about most day jobs. Once the newness wears off, work becomes commonplace. I try not to get bored by searching for the adventure. It’s everywhere. I just have to look for it.” Every part of the world is unique. There are always new and beautiful things to discover. But even the most beautiful things can be shadowed by a negative perspective. It takes creativity to find adventure in each situation, but it is always worth it. According to Jacobson, “No matter where you are, be it a small town or New York City, there’s always a lull. Even international travel can get boring. When that happens, I remind myself that there’s always something new to experience.” With that perspective, Jacobson happily thrives off of the adrenaline that comes from experiencing cultures all over the world, one flight at a time.

There are a lot of things that can get under your skin when you’re stuck in a metal tube. So help keep flight attendants sane by doing the following during your next flight: ▶▶

Be courteous. Say please and thank you. Take out your headphones when flight attendants are talking to you. It makes a world of a difference.

▶▶

Mind the bins. The overhead bins are for everyone’s use, so don’t try to squeeze in your huge bag if you know it won’t fit. If it doesn’t fit and you leave it in the bin, your flight attendant will have to check the bag instead of preparing the cabin for departure, thus causing a delay.

▶▶

Don’t walk around barefoot. You aren’t on a beach, so put some socks on! The cabin is not the most sanitary place to walk around barefoot. So for your health and everyone else’s, pack a pair of socks in your carry-on.

▶▶

Don’t self-upgrade. Unless you paid for it, you are not a VIP passenger. Just because there is an empty seat in first class doesn’t mean you are destined to sit in it. Upgrades only come through ticket agents.

▶▶

Be positive. No matter what you say, flight attendants cannot make the flight go faster. So stop complaining.

—Lisa MacKay

A New Travel Perspective

A benefit of flying the same routes repeatedly is that repetition makes

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This statue of the Brothers Grimm stands in Hanau, the beginning of the Fairy Tale Route.

No, it’s not Disneyland. The Fairy Tale Route is a highway that winds through dozens of picturesque German villages that are linked with the Grimm brothers and their fairy tales. Retrace their footsteps and enjoy the scenery that inspired their famous stories. The highway begins in Hanau, Germany, near Frankfurt. Visit the birthplace of the Grimm brothers and participate in the Brothers Grimm Festival, a series of performances of beloved fairy tales held annually each

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summer. Nearby Steinau holds the Grimms’ childhood home. Travel north into Red Riding Hood land, a region along the highway known for its ancient forests and traditional costume of a red cap beginning near Alsfeld. Alsfeld is the winner of several awards for the best preserved medieval town in Europe. Take a stroll through the streets and admire the halftimbered architecture. Afterwards visit the Märchenhaus, or Fairy Tale house, where you’ll see each

room decorated with mannequins and props depicting fairy tales like “Hansel and Gretel” and “Little Red Riding Hood.” The second floor alone contains over two centuries’ worth of dollhouses that allow you to experience the history of childrearing in Germany. After exploring the house, you can go into the listening room where a professional storyteller will entrance you with a traditional tale. The entrance fee is two euros for an adult (about $2.13), one euro for a child ($1.07).

Photo by Phillip Gerbig

Does modern life sometimes feel too complicated? Wishing you could revisit the innocence and imagination of your childhood? Then pack your bags and prepare for a road trip into the land of fairy tales!


field notes

even feed. While most people think of Neuschwanstein as “the Sleeping Beauty castle” because of its influence on the Walt Disney film, Sababurg castle, near Hofgeismar, is the one that inspired the Brothers Grimm. The castle contains a restaurant, and there is even a rose garden outside. Guided tours are available of the castle, the town, and the surrounding forest. While you’re there, swing by the neighboring town of Trendelburg. The twelfth century castle there is most famous for its association with the story of Rapunzel. Today, it is a hotel. For prices starting at 105 euros Top: Old-town Alsfeld is well-preserved and looks much the same as it did in the Middle Ages. Right: This tower could have been the inspiration for the story of Rapunzel.

Top: photo by François Philipp; Right: photo by Michael Armbrecht

If you travel along highway B254 for about an hour, you’ll find yourself in Bad Wildungen. Known for its famous spa, Bad Wildungen was also home to the sixteenth century noblewoman Margaretha von Waldeck, considered to be the inspiration for Snow White. Like the story, Margaretha had a stepmother

in Friedrichstein castle, which also houses a museum of military history. Afterwards, stop in the castle’s café for a treat. Next, continue northwest and enter the Sleeping Beauty part of the route. Here, the road winds into the Reinhardswald, a thickly wooded strand of hills in central

Visitors have the chance to sleep in perhaps the very same tower as the longhaired princess. she did not get along with, attracted the attention of a prince, and was mysteriously poisoned at the age of 21. Look through the cultural and historical exhibits in the city museum, then travel to the nearby village of Bergfreiheit where you can visit the Snow White house to learn more about the historical origins of the Snow White story as well as meet Snow White and the dwarves. You can also take a tour of Margaretha’s home

Germany. In Hofgeismar, take some time to wander through Tierpark Sababurg, a 130 hectare wildlife park. With the price of eight euros ($8.52) for adults and 4.50 ($4.79) for children and students, you can see wild boars, bison, horses, birds, moose, reindeer, and wolves as well as various species of owls and birds of prey. There are even some animals that you can see up close and perhaps

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($111.85) per night, visitors have the chance to sleep in perhaps the very same tower as the long-haired princess. Farther north lies the town of Hameln, the place that the Pied Piper freed from rats. Wander through the old town and admire the carefully restored architecture, then visit the Hameln Museum to learn more about the origins of the fairy tale. During the summer, dozens of storytellers perform the story and even put on a humorous musical interpretation of the legend entitled “RATS.” The Fairy Tale Route ends in Bremen, home of the Bremen Town Musicians. The legend is of a donkey, dog, cat, and rooster who set out to become musicians. They become heroes after scaring thieves away from the town. You can find a bronze statue of the four animals in the town square. Local storytellers recite the story every Sunday during the summer in the town center. Before you leave, take time to visit the town hall, which combines both medieval and renaissance architectural styles in a building that is truly breathtaking. These towns are only a small sampling of what you can find on the Fairy Tale Route. There are dozens more villages and cities that you can explore, each with their own unique histories and stories. Revisit the stories of your childhood and drive down this German highway, where the past coexists with the present every day. –Mara Kellogg

Photo by Jim Champion

Top: A bronze statue of the Bremen Town Musicians stands in the town square.

68 ▶ spring 2016


field notes

Volunteering in

Paradise

Home to one-tenth of all animal species and spanning across nine South American countries, the Amazon is also home to countless volunteer programs. Volunteer programs are geared toward conserving the wildlife, plants, and communities that have either suffered or are threatened by deforestation or other illegal practices. Choosing to volunteer for Amazon wildlife is choosing to help

the most diverse community on the planet stay alive. Your future career does not have to be animal-related to volunteer for the Amazon wildlife. These programs accept all levels of experience. When it comes down to it, they really just need all the help they can get. So even if you have only a slight interest in animals or conservation—even if the experience in traveling abroad is all that pulls you, the Amazon awaits.

Be Prepared picture by Daniele Gidsicki

Top: photo by LollyKnit; Bottom: photo by Daniele Gidsicki

What makes nature such a tempting getaway? For most, it’s the peaceful contrast to a bustling city. However, much like the city that never sleeps, the Amazon’s constant humming and buzzing reveals a similar atmosphere. Come join the Amazon wildlife community to see what all the commotion is about.

Volunteering abroad can seem like a scary experience. But it doesn’t have to be if you have all of the information. There are three Amazon wildlife volunteer programs that can introduce you to some of the various opportunities that are offered and

show you what you can expect from volunteering. Before volunteering, however, you should be aware of the general requirements of these and other programs. The ones highlighted here have a volunteer fee, which pays for living expenses, information guides (mailed to you when your application is accepted), on-site training, and 24-hour emergency support. This fee does not pay for travel expenses, a passport and visa, and travel insurance. These programs require a minimum age of 18, a current passport/ visa, and travel insurance. Spend some time looking into the expenses and requirements before applying for any volunteer programs. It is also smart to apply for a program at least six months in advance, as space may be limited and fills fast.

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assisting scientific researchers, while Frontier volunteers have real, physical interaction with the animals. Because of its location in Ecuador, Frontier requires that volunteers speak a high-basic to intermediate level of Spanish. In that sense, this program could be beneficial to anyone learning Spanish as a second language. Volunteers share a bunk bed, restrooms, and a living area in a cabin. Main meals are provided, but volunteers must pay for any meals or travel outside of the volunteer site.

Personal Overseas Development (POD) focuses on three areas: documenting the ecosystem, studying local wildlife and endangered species, and supporting local communities by conserving the rainforest. While studying the local wildlife, volunteers have the opportunity to interact with other volunteers on a team performing specific research. The typical schedule for wildlife volunteers depends on what species they will be studying. Before volunteers are given specific duties, however, they are given training on the current projects and learn about the jungle ecology. When they aren’t working, volunteers share rooms at the Manu Biosphere Reserve, a certified Rainforest Alliance research center and one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. Volunteers can relax in hammocks at the Manu center, go on leisurely nature walks, and play football with the staff. Main meals are provided at the center. Any additional food or travel outside of the site is up to the individual volunteer.

DURATION 2 to 12 weeks

COST

$2035 to $5945

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HOW TO APPLY

To volunteer for one of POD’s Amazon wildlife programs, fill out an online application. There you will indicate where and how long you would like to volunteer. Applications can be submitted for one month to two years in advance, but plan far ahead because only 6–12 volunteers are selected per session. ▶▶

www.podvolunteer.org

Frontier–Ecuador, Animal Care

Frontier’s Amazon program is based in Ecuador’s Amazon Wildlife Rescue Centre. The center is family-owned and run by volunteers who give tours to visitors of the center and surrounding park. At the center, volunteers also have the daily opportunity to care of individual animals. These animals are rescued in the wild and from illegal pet trade. Rescued animals are constantly being brought to the center, sometimes including nonnative species that cannot be released back into the wild. Because of this, there will always be a demand for volunteer work. Volunteers should be aware that this program requires a lot of work to maintain the center and the population of rescued animals. With its hands-on experience, Frontier’s program differs from POD’s: POD volunteers observe animals in the wild,

DURATION 2 to 4 weeks

COST

$1,345 to $2,545; you can volunteer for additional weeks at $445 per week.

HOW TO APPLY

Frontier volunteer sessions are flexible. Apply for any month of the year, up to ten years in advance online. ▶▶

www.frontierbeta.co.uk

Kaya–Bolivia, Veterinary Internship

Animal lovers who are especially interested in animal conservation and who want to learn how to care for different species long-term will gain practical experience from a zoo veterinary internship in La Paz, Bolivia. For this internship at Kaya, students and professionals work together to care for the animals in the zoo. Volunteers will learn how to sustain indigenous Amazon species. This project is beneficial for prospective vets who want real experience for their resume; however, Kaya’s volunteer program in Bolivia also includes lab test assisting, observing wildlife, and habitat development. Aside from the work, volunteers have plenty of opportunities to visit Bolivia’s attractions, from the largest salt flat in the world to the local

Photo by Steve Wilison

Personal Overseas Development–Peru, Animal Research


field notes

community culture. As with POD and Frontier, volunteers share rooms in a house with a kitchen, though meals are not included. Because of this, the program expense is considerably lower, at $1593 for 4 weeks. The program requires at least an intermediate level of Spanish speaking, as most of the team members speak very little English. Before applying, a background check is required, which is not covered by the program fee.

DURATION 4 to 12 weeks

COST

$1,593 to $3,185

HOW TO APPLY

As with the other programs, go to Kaya’s website to apply for this internship. A deposit fee is required at application, which will be refunded immediately if you are not accepted. ▶▶

www.kayavolunteer.com

Photo by Flickpicpete

—Christine Wilkins

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g n i l e v a r T So don’t let them keep you from exploring the world. Research, communication, and preparation will help you worry less and enjoy your travels more.

1. Research Learning about your destination is essential because it will allow you to have a richer travel experience. Before traveling, investigate the

72 ▶ winter 2015

local cuisine and how it is typically prepared. Are there unique local ingredients you need to be aware of? Find out what these ingredients are and which dishes you should definitely avoid. Fortunately, much of this information is available online.

2. Communicate If you are traveling where a foreign language is spoken, research how

to say the ingredients that you are allergic to. You may also want to write them down as your pronunciation may interfere with your communicating as effectively as you would like. You’ll also need to learn to ask the right questions. The right question won’t always be “Is this dish gluten-free?” You might need to ask something more specific, like “Is the chicken flour-dusted?” Many

Vectors designed by flickr.com

We love to experience cultures through their unique cuisine, be it Italian spaghetti or Japanese sushi. However, if you have food allergies, this opportunity also presents some challenges. According to Kim Koeller, the founder of the health education company GlutenFree Passport, approximately 78 million Americans have food allergies, have food intolerance, or are following gluten-free diets. Fortunately, such dietary restrictions don’t have to keep people from feasting on the culture.


with

Food Allergies

websites, like www.brokerfish.com, offer free foreign language printables that describe specific allergies. Let friends and family know about your food allergy ahead of time. Talk to the people who may be hosting you or traveling with you. If a meal will be served on your flight, don’t forget to call your airline so that you will have something to eat on the plane.

3. Prepare. Traveling with food allergies is totally doable, but it does take a little more planning. For example, bring some snacks that you know

you can eat. Many common allergies like gluten or peanuts are very common ingredients in so many foods. Keep nutritious foods like protein bars in your suitcase, and even a few in a purse or carrying bag, so that you never have to go hungry. Traveling with food allergies can be challenging, but don’t let it keep you from enjoying your travels. In fact, since certain places are more accommodating of food allergies than others, it may be that eating on your trip proves easier than eating at home.

—Katie Hulme

Menu Ways to say, “I have a food allergy to . . .” in different languages: Portuguese Tenho uma alergia a . . . Spanish Soy alergico a . . . German Ich bin allergisch gegen . . . French Je suis allergique au . . . Italian Sono allergico a . . .

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The Seven Temples of The Sea 74 â–ś spring 2016


The Island of the Gods. The land of a thousand temples. Bali, an island province of Indonesia, is home to many mystic and spiritual places for Asian faiths. Significant among these many temples are the seven temples known as the seven temples of the sea. The temples are arranged in a visual chain, creating a circle of protection around the nation. The temples were built in the sixteenth century by Nirartha, a Majapahit monk, to honor the Hindu sea gods. Visitors often comment on the temples’ beauty and locations—and monkeys.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu

Jutting from the land, the cliff on which Pura Luhur Uluwatu is built overlooks the mighty sea below, a stalwart sentinel to the ocean. The temple’s name literally means the edge (ulu) of a high cliff or rock (watu). It is also one of the nine directional temples. Visitors that are afraid of heights should stay away from this temple! Although not considered the “monkey temple,” this magnificent edifice houses monkeys that might snatch your belongings. However, the monkeys can usually be persuaded into trading stolen items for a fruit or goodie. Of all the sea temples, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is also considered one of the Sad Kahyangan, or “six sanctuaries of the world.” These six temples are considered the pillars of Bali itself, holding it up in the sea. Because of its deeply religious significance, the kecak, one of the most famous Hindu epics, is performed nightly at this temple. Tourists who are afraid of getting things stolen by monkeys or heights are generally dissuaded from this temple, but if they can overcome these fears, this temple is one not to miss!

Pura Pulaki

Pura Pulaki is known as the monkey temple because monkeys swing all around, carefree and curious of tourists. Tourists have the opportunity to offer monkeys peanuts or bananas in order to interact the monkeys. Sometimes, monkeys will crawl over tourists, stealing glasses or phones—so be careful! Tourists and natives are known to pray to the god of prosperity while visiting here. This temple also attracts many tourists interested in diving, since Pura Pulaki is the sea temple closest to Bali’s best diving areas.

Pura Gede Perancak

All temples commemorate religious beliefs, but Pura Gede Perancak is especially religious because it is built where the monk Nirartha first set foot in Bali in the sixteenth century. The tale around Nirartha

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Photo by CEphoto, Uwe Aranas / CC-BY-SA-3.0

Pura Tanah Lot, built to workship the Hindu sea gods, watches over the Indian Ocean. Photo by James Mason-Hudson

focuses on a plague that affected Bali. Nirartha presented a hair of his head to King Dalem Baturenggong, which was then placed in Pura Gede Perancak. Not only does Pura Gede Perancak have a deep religious background, it has wonderful architecture, being one of the most well-kept temples on the island. Giant rock crocodiles guard the entrances to this temple. People are sometimes drawn to the bull runs that occur here.

Pura Rambut Siwi

Just as he did in Pura Gede Perancak, Nirartha also stopped at site of Pura Rumbut Siwi and declared the area to be holy. A temple was erected in the spot, and Nirartha, upon leaving, donated a lock of his hair to the local village. Pura Rambut Siwi literally means “temple for worshipping the hair.” The temple itself is one of the largest on the island and is guarded by carved dragons and boars. It holds shrines to the goddesses of learning and rice. Pura Rambut Siwi overlooks

76 ▶ spring 2016

the sea from a large cliff, and has a very enjoyable beach below it for weary travelers to relax and enjoy the calm Indian Ocean.

Mas Suka is closed to visitors. Visitors who do get the chance to visit are rewarded with stunning views of the Indian Ocean.

Pura Tanah Lot

Pura Sakenan

Pura Mas Suka

—Hayley Brooks and Adam McLain

Built on a rock separate from the mainland, the Pura Tanah Lot literally means “small island floating on the sea.” Balinese built the temple to provide worship to the sea deities. During high tide, the temple seems to join with the sea, the water covering the reef around it. The surrounding area is home to many fruit bats. The most popular of the seven sea temples, the Pura Tanah Lot is beautiful and inspiring to behold.

Pura Mas Suka is accessible through a winding road. Its small size and difficulty to reach makes it one of the less-visited of Bali’s temples. Before planning to visit this temple, check to make sure it’s open; often, Pura

The island Pulau Serengan is home to Pura Sakenan, a former pilgrimage site for the Balinese people. When making the pilgrimage, pilgrims would have to wait for high tide to be able to travel to the island. Now visitors can get to Pura Sakenan over an automobile bridge. This temple is just over six miles outside of Denpasar. The original structure used coral and limestone, which is still visible despite rebuilding.


photo contest

First Place Light in the Dark

This is a shot I set up myself while hiking in the Narrows in Zion’s National Park.

—Preston Alder Mesa, AZ

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photo contest

Second Place Punk Seine

Street art is huge in Paris. The flowers were there by chance, and I thought the entire scene was so bright, beautiful, and poetic that I had to snap a picture.

—Carly Christiansen Walnut Creek, CA

Third Place

Bathing with Elephants An Indian tradition states that to truly bond with an elephant you first need to bathe it, and then it will bathe you.

—Angel Bird Goa, India 78 ▶ spring 2016


Insider 80

Funded Travel

82

Around the World with One Ticket

84

Luxury Camping

86

Uber Cool Taxi Alternative

87

Wrinkle-Free with Room to Spare

Want to see the world while in college? Learn about some of the different ways you can fund your travels.

Round-the-World tickets are the new way to get to your desired destination.

Camping? No, glamp the right way.

Need a taxi but there are none in your area? Check out the Uber app, a taxi-free rideshare.

Packing can be a hassle, but fold your clothes correctly and you’ll even have room for souvenirs.

Photo by Phillip Capper

Bangkok can be a busy place. Learn about ways to travel in Thailand in “Thailand on a Budget” and “Uber Cool Taxi Alternative.”

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 79


Photo by Matthew Brodeur

d e d n Fu Travel

80 â–ś winter 2016


insider

On a sunny afternoon, walking along the River Thames felt surreal as I headed toward the reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. I never would have expected to be there, especially as an undergraduate student, to study and conduct research. Being a student can sometimes make it difficult to find opportunities to travel. However, here are three ways to help you live your dreams and travel as a student.

Photo by Christian Battaglia

1. ORCA GRANTS

At Brigham Young University, the Office of Research and Creative Activities (ORCA) funds grants to undergraduate students. The grant is used to encourage students in all fields of study to research with a mentor, who is most often a professor. Each year, approximately one third of ORCA applicants are awarded grant money: $1,500 to the student and $300 to the mentor. Students can use the money they receive from the grant for whatever they want, such as travel so they can research abroad. I received an ORCA grant in 2015 to learn about theatrical adaptations of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice. I applied because I wanted more experience researching a topic that truly interested me. To conduct thorough research on different theatrical adaptations, I needed to travel and to see them in the UK. In addition, I wanted to work more one-onone with my academic advisor and receive feedback on my analysis. Once I arrived in the UK, I had the opportunity to research at the archives of the Globe Theatre in London and the Shakespeare’s Birthplace Trust in Stratford-upon-Avon to provide information for me to write my paper. If you plan on applying, be sure to give yourself plenty of time to write and edit your application. Additionally, you will want to find an academic advisor with whom you have a professional relationship and feel comfortable working. If you do not attend Brigham Young University, research opportunities at your own college by reaching out to academic advisement centers and current faculty members. There are many opportunities to have your research travels funded by on- and off-campus scholarships and grants.

2. FUNDMYTRAVEL.COM

If you are volunteering or studying abroad, you can use the website, fundmytravel.com, to help with the expenses. This website explains the simple, three-step process for funding your trip. First, create a profile in order to show your passion for traveling. Second, create your campaign by creating a page to showcase what your cause is. You can add a video or photo to help tell your story and to attract potential donors. Third, share your campaign. Invite your family and friends to donate by sharing your campaign through Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, and blogging. Social media will be your friend. You can also extend your audience to the friends of your family and friends and then to the general populace at large. You can also send emails to potential donors. Fourth, raise funds. The website’s secure payment system collects donations from your network of friends.

3. INTERNATIONAL STUDENT IDENTITY (ISIC) CARD

Whether you are a student or under the age of 26, there are ways to receive discounts for attractions in your destination. ISIC cards are only $25 and can be bought online at statravel.com. There are opportunities to buy discount tickets for flights all over the world. In addition, there are discounted hotels, hostels, train tickets, and bus passes that will make traveling easier and less expensive. The ISIC card is not some scam—UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) endorses them. Once you arrive at your dream location, you are most likely going to want to play the tourist, watch a show, or wander the city. This card helps you receive discounts for shops, attractions, and restaurants not only in over 133 countries but also in the United States. It can certainly pay to be an adventurous student with an ISIC card.

—Katie Hollingsworth

While researching abroad, students could enjoy the view of St. Paul’s. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 81


Anything one man can imagine, other men can make real. 82 ▶ spring 2016

than ever. Since Around the World in Eighty Days was published in 1873, long-distance travel has become a realistic option for anyone with the resources and time.

RTW Tickets

If you’re longing to satisfy your wanderlust by traveling around the world, but don’t want to go bankrupt in the process, then round-the-world (RTW) tickets may be for you. An RTW ticket is a product that allows travelers to explore different parts of the world without the hassle of booking separate flights. These tickets are often airline alliance passes, which allow you to travel using any of the airlines that are part of that specific partnership. For example, the Star Alliance includes 28 international airlines such as United Airlines, Air China, and Lufthansa.

Photo by Stacy MacKay www.mackayphotographystudio.com

Have you ever wanted to follow the example of Phileas Fogg? In Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days, Fogg took the vacation of a lifetime. By the end of his successful journey around the world, Fogg states, “I see that it is by no means useless to travel, if a man wants to see something new.” Over the years, many travelers have been inspired by Fogg’s adventure. Now, the feat of traveling around the world is easier


insider

Make your globe-trotter dreams come true with an RTW ticket. RTW tickets are usually valid for a year and limited based on the number of continents visited or the mileage traveled. Each airline alliance has different packages that can be purchased. For instance, Star Alliance offers three options: passes good for 29,000, 34,000, or 39,000 miles, with 15 stopovers around the world. Oneworld, another airline alliance, offers similar mileage-based passes, but also offers passes based on the number of continents visited, allowing for 16 stopovers. Though these passes are convenient, it is important to read the fine print of the deal because each airline alliance has specific terms and conditions. Many times, these limitations are complicated. For instance, some RTW tickets have time limitations, restrict the amount of stopovers in each continent, and count overland travel as flight miles.

Booking RTW Flights

Booking an RTW trip directly with an airline alliance may cost anywhere between $3,000 and $10,000, depending on the number of stops and miles traveled. A cheaper option for finding RTW flights is using third-party sites such as Airtreks.com. These booking sites will find the cheapest routes and prices to make your adventures more affordable. Booking through a third party often reduces the cost of RTW tickets because instead of booking with one airline alliance, the third party will deal with various alliances to find the lowest prices. There are also fewer terms and conditions, since these passes usually are not mileage-based. Booking an RTW trip through a third party often costs less than it

would cost to book through a specific airline alliance. Many third parties have sites where you can plan your trip and receive feedback regarding the cheapest way to reach each destination and in what order. They also often offer monthly specials. Airtreks. com recently offered a special package that included flights between New York, Bogota, Rio de Janeiro, Paris, and Madrid for only $2,500. A round-trip flight from New York to Paris alone often costs $1,200. RTW tickets are not for everyone, as they are often complicated, but they may help turn your around-theworld-in-80-days-inspired dreams into a reality. Because, as Jules Verne stated, “Anything one man can imagine, other men can make real.”

—Lisa MacKay

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Luxury camping (also known as glamping) is a popular modern way to vacation. Most people think extravagant camping just means more money. But with careful research, you can get well-priced camping gear to turn your “roughing-it” trip into a comfortable hiatus. These are just a few of the “must-haves” for camping in luxury.

Sleeping on the ground is never comfortable, and air mattresses and cots can get pricey. Opt out for a cocoon hammock. You will be amazed how comfy hammocks can be, and the netted cover will keep you safe from pesky bugs. Plus, you don’t have to worry about spending extra money on that glamorous 10-person tent.

84 ▶ winter 2016

Heavy-duty Phone Case

If you are luxury camping, you will more than likely have your phone with you. The outdoors has never been a friendly place for cell phones. Invest in a heavy-duty phone case to protect your phone from water, rocks, and other elements that might cause

it harm. This is a small price to pay to protect your valuable phone.

Portable Stove

Avoid the trouble of making a fire by bringing your own mobile cooking device. Although a portable stove is more expensive than a handy match is, this is the perfect gadget if you

Photo by Derek Finch

Camping Hammock


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don’t like coming home from a camping trip smelling like a forest fire.

Hand-Crank Flashlight

A clean camper is a happy camper in the luxury camping world. Keep up your bathroom routine in the outdoors with a portable sink. Some sinks include a place to put toothbrushes, razors, soap, and even a mirror. With a portable sink, your days of dirty fingernails and bad breath while camping will be over.

—Cherie Top

Illustrations by Cherie Top

But not just any hand-crank flashlight. To camp in luxury, get a handcrank flashlight that includes FM radio, emergency siren, USB plug-in for your phone, and a built-in alarm clock. Flashlights like this can be purchased for less than $30 and will be the gem of your luxury camping gadget collection.

Portable Sink

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Packing is often viewed as a hassle, but it doesn’t have to be. A few simple adjustments to the way you fold and pack your clothes will keep them neat and wrinkle-free while taking up less room in your luggage.

Shirts

Lay out T-shirts facedown on a flat surface. Fold the sleeves back, smooth out the wrinkles, and then—starting with the hem—roll it up. For dress shirts, fasten all buttons and lay it out facedown on a flat surface. Fold back the sleeves. Fold up the bottom third of the shirt, and then fold the top of the shirt so that it overlaps the first fold. Smooth out wrinkles.

Pants

Fold jeans so that one leg covers the other. Lay it on a flat surface and smooth out wrinkles, and then roll it up from bottom to top. With dress pants, fold one leg over the other, then spread on flat surface and smooth out wrinkles. Fold in half once—top to bottom—smooth out wrinkles, and then fold again.

Skirts and Dresses

Lay skirts and dresses on a flat surface and smooth out all the wrinkles. Fold lengthwise then fold up from the bottom. Fold up again if necessary.

Putting it all Together

After folding your clothes, don’t put them into your bag right away. Tightly pack socks and undergarments into your shoes, and then set them on the bottom of the bag. On top of that, lay down the heavier rolled items like jeans. The next layer should be the lighter rolled items like T-shirts. The final layer should consist of the folded items, so they are close to the top to be quickly unpacked and hung up. Any other items such as belts or extra socks should be used to fill in the holes and crannies in the case. Put your toiletry bag on top and close the suitcase. Zip it up, and you’re ready to go!

—Mara Kellogg

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Photos screenshoted from Uber app with personal phone on 8 Dec. 2015.

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Uber Cool Taxi Alternative Uber is an international company located in 58 countries and 300 cities worldwide. It provides a taxi-like service, but usually costs less than a commercial taxi service. Uber drivers are locals who use their own cars and have passed a series of background checks. On the Uber app, you can see the name, license plate number, and photo of your driver. When you submit a driver request, the app automatically pinpoints your location and an Uber driver in your area will be able to pick you up wherever you may be.

How to use Uber Uber Interesting Facts: ▶▶

Uber announced its one-millionth driver in August 2015.

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Uber experimented with UberMOTO in Paris. It let customers ride on the back of an Uber driver’s motorcycle. The program was discontinued in 2013.

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Uber is also experimenting with a program called UberKITTENS. In over 50 US cities, it offers customers the option to buy fifteenminutes of cuddle time with real kittens. Each 15-minute session costs $30. All kittens are available for adoption.

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With its new UberPOOL carpool program, Uber has also pledged to take 1,000,000 cars off the road in New York City. Uber’s website explains that “when 3 people

1. Access Uber on any smartphone through the Uber app. 2. Select the kind of car you’d like to pick you up. Consider the different rates of each car in your selection. 3. Wait for your car. 4. Track the Uber car with the app, while waiting safely inside a building. 5. Pay for your ride through the app. Link your debit or credit card up to the app so you can easily pay your bill. There is even a feature that lets you split your fare between you and your friends. 6. Get your receipt in your email. Remember that you should always be prepared when using a ride share program. Even though Uber drivers go through extensive background checks, be cautious when using Uber. If you ever feel like something isn’t right, follow that feeling. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, Uber is an easy, cost-effective way to get around town.

going the same way combine trips and divide costs, that’s two less cars on the road and a cheaper

—Allyson Jones

fare for all riders.”

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In the Beginning . . . Have you ever questioned how Earth and the people on it began? Many cultures’ ideologies and religious beliefs have important, but different, creation stories that teach that the world was created by different deities through various processes. Enrich your travel experiences by paying attention to the footprints that local religions leave on each location. We’ve compiled a list of six creation stories from around the world to help you better understand the cultures you may visit. But don’t stop here! Before you travel, remember to research the local culture and religion to enrich your visit with the locals. —Adam McLain

North America

From top: photography by Tony Hisgett, Dennis G. Jarvis, and Vicki Burton

The Cherokee Nation, like many Native American nations and tribes, believe in animal spirits. Before humans populated the earth, water covered the land. Above this water, the animals lived above a great rainbow. The animals sent Water Beetle to build more space for them. Water Beetle brought up mud from the bottom of the sea. Grandfather Buzzard was then sent to discover if the ground had hardened. As he flapped his great wings, valleys and mountains were created. The earth stiffened, and the animals dissended from behind the rainbow. People were formed by the Creator after the animals had lived on the earth.

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South America

Living along the Andes mountains, the Incan empire had a rich and deep history of god fighting god. In the beginning, Con, the Creator, lived in the form of a man without bones. He cared for the first humans, supplying them with their needs. The first humans forgot about Con’s kindness, though, and so he punished them by causing a drought on the land. A new god, Pachachamac, drove out Con, causing the first humans to rejoice. However, he then turned the first humans into monkeys. Pachachamac took the earth for himself and then created the ancestors to human beings.


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Central America

The Mayan civilization spanned Mesoamerica in present-day Central America. The Mayans believed that Heart-of-Sky created animals first, but the animals were not able to worship and praise like humans can. So, Heart-of-Sky tried again, this time with mud. But, mud was too porous and crumbly. Heart-of-Sky went to the wisest spirits, Grandfather and Grandmother, and asked them what mankind should be made of. Heart-of-Sky, Grandfather, and Grandmother all determined that mankind should be made of maize, and so they were. Dotted throughout the archaeological wonders of Central and South America are beautiful and ancient temples that you can visit to learn more about this civilization.

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Norse

From top, clockwise: photography by zoetnet, Zé Valdi, Robert Lyle Bolton, Jayson Emery, and Carolina Ödman

Hailing from the frigid north of Sweden, Finland, Norway, and Iceland, the Norse creation myth is as rough as the land it comes from. After a world of ice and fire converged and formed giants and gods, Odin, child of a god and a giant, fought with Ymir, the first of the giants. Odin slew Ymir and formed the Earth out of Ymir’s blood, body, and hair. When visiting the Nordic region of the world, there might not be any religious temples to pay homage to Norse mythology, but be sure to pay homage to religion in the area by visiting a Christian medieval stave church. A lot of stave churches have been rebuilt to help you remember the past in this harsh territory.

Africa

All over Africa there are diverse stories about the creation of the earth. In central Africa, the Bantu tribe believes that the great god Bumba was in the beginning with darkness and water. One day Bumba felt pain in his stomach and vomited up the sun—then the moon, stars, animals, and finally men. A tribe in Ethiopia believes in Wak, the creator god who lived in the clouds. When he created man, Earth was flat; in order to form mountains and shape the Earth, Wak created a coffin to hold man. Man entered the coffin, and Wak had fire rain down on the Earth for seven years to form the various landscapes. When man exited the coffin, he was lonely. Seeing this, Wak used his own blood to create woman. As you travel across the diverse African continent, be sure to learn more about the various wonderful creation stories told by different tribes.

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Greece

The Greek creation story tells of rebellion and defeat. Gaea, the earth, gave birth to Uranus, the heavens. Heaven and Earth paired up to create different beasts and species. Uranus was a bad father and imprisoned many of his creations—including his and Gaea’s children, the Titans. The youngest Titan born of Gaea and Uranus, Cronus, overthrew Uranus. A prophecy told of Cronus being overthrown by his children, so when he and his sister, Rhea, began having children, he would eat them. Rhea, tired of this, concealed her son Zeus from Cronus. Zeus eventually defeated Cronus and helped his brothers and sisters escape from Cronus’s stomach. After some more battles, Zeus and his siblings declared dominance and created mankind. When you’re next in Greece, visit the Parthenon or a different temple to learn how ancient Greeks worshipped these fighting gods.


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India

In Hinduism, there was nothing in the beginning. Then, a vast ocean washed up along the nothingness and on the ocean lay a giant cobra. Coiled up and sleeping on the cobra was Lord Vishnu, soul of the entire cosmos. A giant lotus flower sprang from the naval of Vishnu. On this flower was born Brahma, a four-headed god. Vishnu commanded Brahma to create the world, and Brahma obeyed. He divided the lotus flower into three, creating the heavens (night sky), earth, and sky (during the day). Onto the earth, he created the animals, giving them their senses. Pay homage to this beautiful story of sacrifice by visiting a Hindu temple when you’re next in India.

Aboriginal

In Australia, the Aboriginal’s tales of creation are diverse. A main thread, though, tells of the Dreamtime, when gods walked the earth, sometimes in the shape of humans, other times in the shape of animals, and most times in a conglomerate shape of human, animal, and plant. Two beings, the Ungambikula, were wandering the world when they found half-made human beings, made up of a conglomerate of creatures, near where water holes could be created. With great stone knives, the Ungambikula carved the creatures into humans and, the work being completed, the Ungambikula and the wandering gods left Earth and the Dreamtime. As you visit Australia, be sure to appreciate the rocks, waterholes, trees, etc. that pay homage to the presence of the sacred gods of the Dreamtime.

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Parting Shot Overlooking Paris Carly Christiansen Paris, France


explore. dream. discover.

Stowaway Spring 2016  

Travel to Africa, learn about unique lodging options, discover the hope rising from the dust, and more in the Spring 2016 issue of Stowaway.

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