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A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2018 The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
First published 2018 by: Bustle & Sew The Cottage Oakhill Radstock BA3 5HT UK www.bustleandsew.com
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Welcome to the April Magazine At last spring is truly here - all around our village the hedgerows are bursting into leaf while the sound of birdsong in the mornings is almost deafening! This is one of my favourite times of year as we look forward to the warmer months ahead. This month’s issue has a definite feel of spring too as we take a look at the bird we most associate with the season - the Cuckoo - as well as some spring flowers too - the daffodil, bluebell and wild garlic, whilst Rosie’s Recipes celebrates the availability of lovely fresh laid eggs from small flocks up and down the country. Our little Spring Lamb is possibly my favourite pattern this month, and I’ve also included some tips on working with fleece fabric. And don’t abandon your unfinished projects, we have some hints to help you learn to love them once again. I do hope you’ll enjoy this month’s edition, and just a quick reminder that the May issue will be published, as always, on the last Thursday of the month - in this case Thursday 26 April. So if you’re a subscriber watch out for it arriving in your inbox then! Until then, I hope you have a wonderful month!
Helen xx
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Tip for Stitchers When you’re working on a hand embroidery project and you need to move from one area of your design to another do not trail the thread across the back of your fabric as it may show on the front or, if your project is to be used for practical purposes, a long thread may catch and pull spoiling your work. If the distance between the areas you’re working is relatively small weave the needle through the back of your worked stitching until you reach the new area. For longer distances it’s best to finish off and re-start in the new place.
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Between this month’s covers … Tips for Stitchers
Page 4
Auntie’s Cat Cushion Cover
Page 43
April Almanac
Page 6
The Cuckoo
Page 45
Hessian Plant Tubs
Page 8
Lovely Idea: Pompom Branches
Page 49
A (very) Little Guide to Hand Embroidery
Page 11
From Passion to Profit
Page 50
Finishing your Abandoned Projects
Page 13
Little Spring Lamb
Page 54
Spring at Lowood
Page 16
A (very) Little Guide to working with Fleece Page 57
Lovely Idea: Embroidery Hoop Spheres
Page 17
Meet the Maker: Kimberly Hodges
Page 58
Embroidered Scissors Case
Page 18
Lime Cordial
Page 61
Daffodil Sunday
Page 20
Freddie’s Dinosaurs
Page 62
Home Comforts
Page 65
The Final Guide to Transferring your Design Page 21 The Beautiful Bluebell
Page 27
In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables
Page 66
Floral Hoop Embroidery
Page 29
Templates
Page 67
Poetry Corner: The Patchwork Quilt
Page 32
Tastes of the Season: Jersey Royals
Page 33
Rosie’s Recipes: Eggs-tra Special!
Page 34
Tastes of the Season: Wild Garlic
Page 41
Instagram Round-Up
Page 42
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the eye of your needle and it’s suitable for use on your chosen fabric. Your choice will probably depend both on availability and how your finished project will be used. Pieces that require frequent laundering should be stitched with good quality, colourfast linen or cotton thread, whilst if your work is purely for decorative purposes then you could also consider silks or fine wools.
method you choose (there’s a full guide later in this issue), be sure to always transfer the whole of the design before you begin to stitch.
Beginning Work If possible it’s a good idea to work in a continuous flow rather than hopping around to different parts of the design to help provide continuity and rhythm throughout your work.
If you’re using thread from a skein and don’t want to rewind it onto a bobbin before use, then it’s important to leave both paper bands on the skein. Pull out the end of the thread from the centre. Do so carefully at first as only one end will unwind smoothly - and pulling the wrong end will result in a tangled mess. If you first try the wrong end then stop and leave it well alone - have another search to locate the correct end - it does often seem to be buried within the skein.
Never run your thread across the back of an area that will remain unstitched - if your work is going to be of practical use then these long threads may get snagged and pull at your stitches or even break causing your work to unravel. Doing this could also spoil your tension and show through the finished work. Your thread should be no longer than 18” - and ideally shorter - my mum always used to say that it should be the length of the distance between wrist and elbow. If you cut longer lengths they may twist and knot.
Embroidery Hoop or Frame Some stitchers prefer not to use a frame, holding their work in the hand instead. I personally can’t work without one to keep my fabric taut and help me keep an even tension while I’m stitching. It’s very important that you use one large enough to allow plenty of fabric around your design as it’s preferable not to have to move your hoop around the work (though this can’t always be helped). If you do have to move your hoop, then try to position it so you don’t squash any of your stitches.
Finishing Off Never use a knot to secure your thread as it may wobble or even come loose - again with the potential to spoil your embroidery. Instead, to finish your thread either make a few tiny stitches that will be covered by the next thread or turn your work over and run your thread under a few stitches at the back to hold it securely in place. Before removing it from the frame make sure it really is complete (this may sound silly, but I have before now, removed my work and then realised I’ve missed my rabbit’s whiskers - or something equally foolish!)
To help prevent your work slipping bind the inner hoop with fabric strips or bias binding securing the end with a few stitches.
Preparing your Fabric
Always press your work on the reverse - I recommend laying it face down on a clean, padded surface, such as a lint-free towel - to avoid flattening your stitches.
Make sure your fabric is pressed and smooth before you transfer your design. Whichever
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Finishing your abandoned projects
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problem when embroidering on white or cream of course, or if you’re working from a pattern, but can be a little more challenging when you’re making it up as you go along designing a new pattern! In photo (3) was working on a beautifully rich gold-coloured linen background. I’m sure you can see the problem – it’s really hard to see how the finished design will look – until I turn my work over (4) and then the colours really sing!
- you must be stitching on a background fabric that can be soaked in water for at least an hour, and preferably longer.
The fabric layer has a sticky back, so when you’ve printed your design you simply peel it away from the paper backing and press into place on your background fabric where you want your design to be. Unlike some other stitchers, I haven’t found a problem with sticky residue on my needle at all, and the sticky fabri solvy acts as a stabilizer which can be helpful.
In image (6) it’s been in the water for about five minutes. I usually leave mine face down for at least an hour to make sure every little bit has dissolved away, and then I rinse thoroughly. (do check that your fabric won’t shrink though – and be sure to pre-wash if you’re in any doubt at all).
Using this product also makes it easy to transfer your design to thicker fabrics that you can’t trace the pattern onto, as well as textured or dark coloured fabrics. When you’ve completed your stitching you simply immerse your work in cold water - this is a drawback of using this product
I usually put mine into the water upside down so any residue, and printer ink particles, can disperse to the bottom of the basin, but here it’s the right way up so you can see how the Fabri Solvy is beginning to curl and disappear (5).
The only issue I’ve had is if I don’t rinse thoroughly, and leave any printed particles behind, then my printer inkjet inks can bleed into my background fabric. But that really is my fault for not rinsing and these days I’m super careful, often leaving my design overnight to make sure every particle of ink has dissolved out of the design.
Rosie’s Houseplants pattern
The Beautiful Bluebell
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Cheese and Chive Tart We always had (and Mum still does) a clump of chives in our garden - perfectly fresh and ready to include in this tart. Chives are really easy to grow (ours even survived Ben’s enormous paws trampling over them) and have pretty purple flowers too - why not try your own this year?
Ingredients
For the pastry ● 200 g plain flour ● 100 g butter, chilled and cubed ● Pinch of salt ● Pinch of cayenne pepper ● 25 g Parmesan or Cheddar cheese, grated ● 1 large egg, beaten
For the filling ● 3 large eggs, lightly whisked ● 125 g creamy goat’s cheese ● 100 ml crème fraiche ● 2 tablespoons chopped chives ● Pepper
● Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg ● 250 g firm goat’s cheese, rind removed
Method ● To make the pastry rub the flour butter salt and cayenne until they resemble breadcrumbs. Add the cheese and egg and mix until combined, adding a little cold water if needed. Turn out the dough, knead briefly, then chill for 20 minutes. ● Roll out the pastry to line a 9” deep loose-based tart tin. Press into the tin, prick the base with a fork and chill for 30 minutes. ● Bake blind at 200C for 15 minutes. Remove the greaseproof paper and baking beans and bake for a further 5-10 minutes until the centre is cooked. Brush the inside of the pastry case with a little of the whisked egg and return to the oven for 1 minute. Remove and set aside. Reduce your oven temperature to 180C. ● Mix the remaining eggs with the creamy goat’s cheese, crème fraiche and chives, and season with pepper and nutmeg. Crumble the firm goat’s cheese into the egg mixture and pour the filling into the pastry case. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until just set. ● Serve warm.
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Home Comforts At this time of year garden centres and supermarkets are full of spring bulbs and flowers perfect for creating a miniature indoor spring garden. Carefully remove the bulbs and plants from their containers and gently tease out the roots, breaking as few as possible. Line the bottom of the container with a few pebbles to help drainage then plant your chosen with a selection such as grape hyacinths, dwarf irises and small narcissi and perhaps a primula or two. Push the bulbs in carefully spreading out the roots and filling the gaps between them with a little indoor compost. When your container has finished flowering and the danger of frosts is past (your plants won’t be fully hardy after they’ve been indoors) replant its contents in your garden to enjoy again next spring.
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