Bustle & Sew Magazine Issue 140 September 2022 Sampler

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2 A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright © Bustle & Sew Limited 2022 The right of Helen Grimes to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book. First published 2022 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West www.bustleandsew.comBA4SheptonCranmoreMallet4QP

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There’s plenty to enjoy within the covers this month, and I must admit there are two of my favourite patterns of all time - the two little sleeping mice and the lovely sleeping bobbin owl (there seems to be a bit of a theme going on here, perhaps I’m looking forward to snuggling down for a sleep in front of the wood burning stove as autumn progresses! We also take a little look at lotus silk, one of the most expensive fibres in the world, and celebrate the harvest in our kitchen and recipe section. you Until then I hope you have a lovely month, with lots of time for stitching!

I hope

enjoy this issue and the October Magazine will be published on Thursday 29 September.

Helen xx

Very best wishes

Welcometothe SeptemberMagazine

Hello everyone! I especially love this time of year as summer fades into autumn, the children return to school and the mornings are golden and misty, echoing to the sound of the migrating geese flying over our house. I love working with an autumnal palette of threads too, reflecting the colours I see in the countryside all around me now. The hedgerows are festooned with hips, haws and berries and, following our dry hot summer, the trees are already beginning to change colour as I write this in the last week of August.

4 September Almanac Page 5 Harvest Festival Page 7 Two Sleepy Mice Page 8 Caring for your work Page 13 Natural or Artifical Fibres? Page 14 Autumn Wreaths Page 18 Stars of the Season: Michaelmas Daisies Page 19 Autumn’s Bounty Hoop Page 20 The Changing Season Page 23 Migration Page 24 In the Woods Page 26 Lovely Idea: Lemon Beeswax Candles Page 27 Sleepy Bobbin Owl Page 28 Harvest Home Page 33 Scenic Route Hoop Page 47 A (very) Little Look at Lotus Silk Page 50 The Real Mrs Tiggywinkle Page 51 The Harvest Moon Page 54 Lovely Idea: Glass Jar Succulents Page 55 Fuzzy Socks Hoop Page 56 Autumn Printable Page 58 Autumn Wreaths Page 59 A Stitcher’s Alphabet Page 60 Poetry Corner: The Potting Shed Page 65 Baby Reindeer Head Page 66 A Country Diary Page 69 Home Comforts Page 70 Embroidery Stitch Guide Page 71 In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables Page 72 Templates Page 73 Betweenthismonth’scovers… 19 26 33 51

The word “autumn” comes from the Latin autumnus and its use in the English language dates back to the fourteenth century. On this side of the Atlantic we prefer the term autumn, but in the US, fall is preferred. The latter appears in gave thanks to the corn spirit for a

backtheCelebratingcertainlycenturythephrasesixteenthcenturytextsinthelonger“thefalloftheleaf”butbysecondhalfoftheseventeenththeshorterfallwasincommonuse.thesafegatheringofharvestisaritualthatdatestopagantimes,whenpeople

Elderberrieships,andNature’srestoregrainwerethewinterthreshingandovercarriedasanddecoratedhadstalkspreventresidedthePeoplesuccessfulweregoodcropandspecialceremoniesperformedtoensureacropthefollowingyear.believedthatthe“spirit”ofgraintheywereharvestinginthecropitselfandso,toitsdeathwhenthelastwerecutcertainprocedurestobefollowed.Inmanyplacesthelastsheafwaswithribbons,flowersevenclothingandhonouredaharvestdollorqueen.Itwaswithceremonytopresidetheharvesthomeorsupperhunginthebarntosupervisebeforespendingtheinthefarmhouse.Inspringgrainsrubbedfromtheearseithersownwiththeneworfedtotheploughhorsetothecornspirittotheland.harvestisuponustoo,thehedgerowsareladenwithhawsandberries.havebeenripening September

EdwardThomas1917

5 September is a time of changethe sun goes into its long decline, the meadows are left bare and the apples are falling from the trees. It’s also a time to finish gathering finestAutumnwiththanStatisticallyenjoymentheartofmelancholy,Park,minglethemarksnostalgiaPromspackedInseasonyearofyourtheharvestforthewinter,toensurelogstoreisfullandtodreamcosyeveningsbythefireastherushestowardsthefestiveahead.London,theAlbertHallisforthelastnightofthe-thatstirringblendofandpatriotismwhichtheendof‘theseason.’AspromenadersleavethehallandwiththecrowdsinHydethereisasenseofofregretforthebrevityourBritishsummer.Buttake-there’sfineweatherandyettocome.SeptemberissunnierAugustandOctobercanbringitan‘IndianSummer’.hereintheUKcanbeourseason.

“Thegreenelmwiththeone greatboughofgold Letsleavesintothegrass slip,onebyone, –Theshorthillgrass,the mushroomssmallmilkwhite”

OfferingssaySeptemberThealone.highlyapproachingchildhooditarehedgehogstoadstoolagaric,thousandinkcapcolours,fascinatingcomeindamper,wildfungibegintoappearfieldsandwoodlands.Theyinanamazingandvarietyofformsandsuchastheblueshaggyandtheimagefromafairytales-thescarletflywithit’swhitespots-thewithwhichpixies,fairies,andothercharactersinvariablydepicted.Althoughfeaturesinsomanyofourstories,dobewareofitinthewild,asitispoisonousandbestleftAnglo-SaxonscalledHaligmonath,thatistoHolyMonth,ortheMonthoftogivethanksforthe

6 since August, handing in dense deep purple clusters on their claret-coloured stems, bringing colour and richness to the countryside. They are particularly rich in vitamin C and make dark wines, jams and jellies - good for warding off those pesky winter sniffles. Well into late autumn, the elder bushes are a larder for all kinds of birds who also enjoy their rich, succulent berries. As the month progresses and the weather becomes cooler and

So Harvest feasts or suppers were inevitably joyous celebrations,

There would have been an immense sense of relief from tension and worry after the harvest was safely gathered (after all in those days, this would have meant the difference between surviving through the winter or death by starvation if the food ran out).

fieldsgleanfortobringgooseItyourstemgoosearefourSeptemberCatholicGabrielAnglicanMichaelMichaelmas,earlierfarm-basedoverindulgencedrunkennessChristianseenthanksproducecelebrationoriginfullonThedrinking,accompaniedbyfeatsofexcessivegamesandsongs.modernHarvestFestival(heldorneartheharvestmoon-themooninSeptember)owesitstotheVictorians.TheofharvestbybringingtothechurchandgivingwithprayersandhymnswasasamuchmoreappropriatecelebrationthantheandgeneralassociatedwiththeHarvestSuppersoftimes.thefeastdayofStandAllAngelsintheChurch,andMichael,andRaphaelintheRomanChurch,fallson29.ThisIsoneofthedaysonwhichquarterlyrentspaid.Thetraditionofservingfordinneronthisdaymayfromthepracticeofgivinglandlordsuchabirdasagift.wasalsothoughtthateatingonMichaelmasDaywouldfinancialprosperityintheyearcome.Thegeesewerefattenedthetablebyallowingthemtofallengrainonthestubbleaftertheharvest.“Gentlemanrobinbrown assnuff Withspindlelegsand brightroundeye Shallbeyour company.”autumn Vita“TheSackville-WestLand”1926

harvest. In the Middle Ages the celebration of the harvest was linked to the social structure of the time - many workers employed (or in earlier times serfs) by a single landowning farmer who would provide a celebration feast for his workers as an expression of gratitude for their hard work in bringing in the harvest.

7 TwoSleepyMice

You will have spent time and effort creating a beautiful piece of work that is unique to you and you shouldn’t be afraid to use and enjoy it. If you’ve secured all the ends well, and chosen the right fabric then there shouldn’t be any reason for it to be damaged through normal everyday use. Dust and strong sunlight are the main enemies that may attack your work. These days good quality threads such as DMC or Anchor are colourfast, and may be machine washed at high temperatures, but nevertheless strong sunlight will eventually bleach out some of the colour whilst dust will rot the threads. It’s really important therefore that you keep your embroidered work clean. Don’t tumble dry your work though as the crinkles may never come out - just smooth it out and hang it up to dry. Press your work while it’s still just damp, placing it face down on a folded towel to prevent the stitches from flattening. You may find that the embroidery threads don’t dry as quickly as the fabric, so lay it flat after pressing and leave until completely dry. The best way to store embroidered items that aren’t being used is to lay it flat in a drawer, wrapped in acid-free tissue paper. Don’t use plastic bags as they attract dust and the textiles won’t be able to “breathe.”

CaringforyourWork

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9 NaturalorArtificial? A(very)LittleComparisonofFibres

To make a simple wreath, start with a base of thick gauge galvanized wire looped into a substantial circle three strands thick. Gather together a selection of grasses and grains such as corn, wheat, barley, oats, fox tail millet and quaking grass and tie the grasses into small neat bundles, preferably with garden twine or neutral raffia. Use more lengths of twine or raffia to tie the bunches of grass to the wire wreath, working in one direction with the seed heads lying the same way and overlapping the stalks. When the wreath is densely covered add smooth grey poppy seed heads, dried sunflower heads with the petals still attached or silvery honesty seedpods for contrast. Attach a hanging loop and display. When your wreath is past its best it can still be useful hang it outside for a treat for seed eating birds such as sparrows or finches. Wreaths

Autumn

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In some European countries in the past it was the custom to weave ears of corn from the last sheaf to be harvested into a wreath entwined with flowers. The prettiest girl in the village then wore the wreath to the farmhouse and the farmer hung it up in the hall. The following Sunday he took it to the church to be blessed and then kept it until Easter when grain from the wreath was scattered in among the newly sprouted corn - a similar tradition to that of sowing the old corn along with the new, or feeding it to the plough horse.

Wreaths, not only of corn, but of meadow and garden grasses, or stems ready dried from specialist flower shops, make ideal decorations for this time of year, whether to hang on your front door or to decorate church or hall for harvest celebrations.

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“I tried “stopping on” one year,” said the third swallow. “I had grown so fond of the place that when the time came I hung back and let the others go on without me. For a few weeks it was all well enough, but afterwards, O the weary length of the nights! The shivering sunless days! The air so clammy and chill, and not an insect in an acre of it! No, it was no good; my courage broke down, and one cold, stormy night I took wing, flying well inland on account of the strong easterly gales. It was snowing hard as I beat through the passes of the great mountains, and I had a stiff fight to win through’ but never shall I forget the blissful feeling of the hot sun again on my back as I sped down to the lakes that lay so blue and placid below me, and the taste of my first fat insect! The past was like a bad dream; the future was all happy holiday as I moved southwards week by week, easily, lazily, lingering as long as I dared, but always heeding the call! No, I had had my warning; never again did I think of disobedience.”

Extractfrom“TheWindinthe Willows”KennethGrahame 1908

In the osiers which fringed the bank he spied a swallow sitting. Presently it was joined by another, and then by a third; and the birds, fidgeting restlessly on their bough, talked together earnestly and low.

“Couldn’t you stop on for just this year?” suggested the Water Rat, wistfully. “We’ll all do our best to make you feel at home/ You’ve no idea what good times we have here, while you are far away.”

“What, ?” said the Rat, strolling up to them. “What’s the hurry? I call it simply ridiculous.” “Oh, we’re not off yet, if that’s what you mean,” replied the first swallow. “We’re only making plans and arranging things. Talking it over, you know - what route we’re taking this year, and where we’ll stop, and so on. That’s half the fun!” “Fun?” said the Rat; “now that’s just what I don’t understand. If you’ve to leave this pleasant place, and your snug homes that you’ve just settled into, why, when the hour strikes I’ve no doubt you’ll go bravely, and face all the trouble and discomfort and change and newness, and make believe that you’re not very unhappy. But to want to talk about it, or even think about it until you really need -” “No, you don’t understand, naturally,” said the second swallow. “First we feel it stirring within us, a sweet unrest; then back come the recollections one by one, like homing pigeons. They flutter through our dreams at night, they fly with us in our wheelings and circlings by day. We hunger to inquire of each other, to compare notes and assure ourselves that it was all really true, as one by one the scents and sounds and names of long-forgotten places come gradually back and beckon to us.”

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14 Harvest Home…..

Aroundtheendofthismonthyoumaybeclearingyour vegetableplanting,andpossibly findingLOTSofcourgettes(zucchini)hidingbeneaththoselargegreenleavesthatneed usinguporpreservingforfutureuse.

Ifallelsefails,thentheycanbefrozen,eitherblanchedfirstorunblanched,thoughI personallyamnotfondofcourgettesthathavebeenfrozenfindingthemabitmushyin texture.

Courgettes canbefried,barbecued,roasted,spiralizedorevengratedintocakebatterfora super-sweetandmoistresult. Thebestwaytogrillcourgettesistocutthemintoslices, brushwithoilandputunderahotgrillfor3-4minutesuntilcharredandblistered,thenflip andrepeat.Tofrycourgettes,half,diceorcutintoslicesandfryinoliveoilintocharredor alternativelycooklowandslowuntilmeltinglytender.Ifyou’dprefertoroastthem,then heatyourovento200C.Diceorthicklyslicethecourgette,seasonandtosswitholiveoil thenroastfor30minutes,turninghalfway,untilcaramelisedandcookedthrough.

Thefinalpickings..

Someharvestdesserts…time

AutumnPudding Ingredients ● 700g mixed autumn fruit (apples, blackberries, plums etc) prepared ● 4-6 tablespoons water ● 25g brown sugar ● 5-6 slices stale bread Method ● Stew the fruit gently with the sugar and water - the exact amounts will depend upon the ripeness and sweetness of the fruit.

● Serve cold with cream or custard.

● When ready to serve run a knife carefully around the edge to loosen, then invert the pudding onto a serving dish. The reserved juice can be thickened with a little corn flour and poured over the top.

● When the fruit is cooked, and still hot, pour it into the basin gently so as not to disturb the bread framework. When the basin is full cut any remaining bead into squares and use to cover the fruit so that a lid is formed. Cover with foil, then a place or saucer and put a weight on top (keep any displaced juice). Let the pudding get quite cold and then put into the refrigerator.

● Cut a round from one slice of bread to fit the bottom of a 450g basin neatly and cut the rest of the bread into fingers about 1cm wide. Put the round at the bottom of the basin and arrange the fingers around the sides, leaving a gap of 1cm between them.

RichDays…

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TiggywinkleMrs

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A type of embroidery done with the quills of a porcupine, or sometimes with bird feathers. This type of decoration was used by indigenous peoples from Maine to Virginia and westward to the Rocky Mountains. Sinew was used for thread and an awl or sharp thorn instead of a needle to pierce the hid or bark. First the quills were softened by soaking and then flattened by pulling between the fingernails or teeth. The moreplantblue,Thestitches.quillswerenotsewnbutformedintoshapesheldinplacewithnaturalcolourofquillswaswhite,withred,yellow,green,andblackbeingproducedbysteepinginsolutionsofmaterials.Novariegatedhuesweremadeandrarelythanoneshadeofacolourwasused.Patternswerestenciledordrawnwithabonepaintbrush,stick, or dull knife, on the skin or bark that was to be worked. Originally quillwork was regarded as a sacred craft. Young women were ceremonially initiated into theartofhandlingthesharpquills,thentaughtthevariousmethodsofsewing,plaiting,weavingandwrapping.

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Quillwork

QuiltsQuiltingand

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ACountryDiary

GilbertWhite(1720-93) spentmostofhislifeasa curateinSelborneand wasapioneerofhistory.natural

Hop-pickinggoesonwithouttheleastinterruption. Stonecurlewscrylateintheevenings. Thecongregatingflocksof onthechurchandtowerareverybeautiful&amusing! Whentheyfly-offtogetherfromtheRoof,onanyalarm,they quiteswarmintheair. Buttheysoonsettleinheaps,&preening theirfeathers&liftinguptheirwingstoadmitthesun,seem highlytoenjoythewarmsituation. Thustheyspendtheheatof theday,preparingfortheiremigration,&,asitwere,consulting when&wheretheyaretogo. Theflightaboutthechurchseems toconsistchieflyofhouse-martins,about400innumber,but thereareotherplacesofrendezvousaboutthevillagefrequented atthesametime. Theswallowsseemtodelightmoreinholding theirassembliesontrees.

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