Bustle & Sew Magazine Issue 109 Sampler

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Embroidery Tips for Beginners The Countryside in February A little look at muslin, and also at vintage fabrics Snowdrops - Harbingers of Spring (and a bonus pattern too) Plus Tastes of the Season, Making Rag Rugs, Poetry Corner and more 1


A Bustle & Sew Publication Copyright Š Bustle & Sew Limited 2020 The right of Helen Challenor to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, or by any means, without the prior written permission of the author, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses and other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

First published 2019 by: Bustle & Sew Station House West Cranmore Shepton Mallet BA4 4QP www.bustleandsew.com

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Welcome to the February Magazine Hello everyone! I don't know about you, but for me January seemed to last almost forever. We had very few of those lovely sparkling frosty days that we love so much, and rather too many dreary and drizzly grey afternoons when the bare branches of the chestnuts at the end of our garden drip sadly into the gloom. But February is upon us now, a whole new month and spring is on the way - our garden is filled with snowdrops whilst the sharp green spikes of daffodils are thrusting up through last year's leaf litter and there are even a few primulas and violets in the sheltered areas by the old walled beds. The days are growing longer too and we're well past the winter solstice now and heading towards the March equinox, though there's still a little while to wait. And while we’re waiting, there’s plenty to keep us occupied between the covers of this month’s edition. We cook pancakes, brush up our embroidery skills, and even consider proposing to our loved ones on Leap Year day! There’s nature notes, poetry corner and much more besides too. I do hope you’ll enjoy this month’s issue - and if you’re a subscriber please do watch out for the March Magazine arriving on Thursday 28 February. Happy stitching!

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Between this month’s covers … February Almanac

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The Countryside in February

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Leap Year Day

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Lovely Idea: Crocus Printable

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Lovely Idea: Chunky Knitted Heart

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Hand Embroidery Threads

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Dove of Peace Hoop

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Lazing Leopard Hoop

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Recycle with Style: Rag Rugs

Page 12

A Little Look at Muslin

Page 58

Poetry Corner: February, A Thaw

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Home Comforts

Page 59

Embroidery Tips for Beginners

Page 15

Nature Notes: The Dawn Chorus

Page 60

Valentine Bluebird Hoop

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Cactus Key Rings

Page 61

A Little Look at Vintage Textiles

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Embroidery Stitch Guide

Page 64

Flipping Lovely: It’s Pancake Day

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In the Kitchen: Conversion Tables

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Signs of Spring

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Templates

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Pea Pods Applique Picture

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A Little Look at Snowdrops

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Poetry Corner: In February

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Tastes of the Season: February

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Zebra Cushion Cover

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Nature Notes: Frog Spawn

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Leap Year Day propose she can take the initiative herself and propose marriage (note, this is a traditional belief and today women are free to propose at any time they choose).

This year is a leap year when February has not 28, but 29 days. Leap years occur only once every four years when the year number is divisible by four, but does not end in 00. (An exception is made in years divisible by 400, such as 2000, which was a leap year). This complicated rule is needed to keep our calendar year in line with the solar year of 365.2422 days.

Often referred to as “the Ladies’ Privilege” it was believed that a man proposed to on 29 February could not refuse, or if he did then he had to offer a consolation gift such as a silk gown or gloves. One explanation for the origins of Leap Year day proposals goes back to fifth century Ireland. St Bridget complained to St Patrick that women never had the chance to propose. St Patrick originally suggested that women be allowed to propose on one day in every seven years, but St Bridget was adamant it should be more often, so a compromise of every four years was reached.

People born on 29 February have to celebrate their birthdays on either 28 February or 1 March in non-leap years. The usual choice is 28 February and this is the date on which leap year children formally come of age. The popular notion that Job was born on this day is based on the biblical text “Let the day perish wherein I was born” (Job 3.3) - 29 February is sometimes known as Job’s Birthday.

Some people consider it unlucky to embark on any major enterprise (including marriage) in a leap year or to sow seeds or plant crops on Leap Year day itself.

Various superstitions and customs have attached themselves to Leap Year Day, or to leap years in general. On 29 February, if a woman is tired of waiting for her loved one to

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Look!

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a lovely idea Chunky Knitted Heart

Annette from Lebenslustiger has generously shared her pattern for a giant knitted heart - perfect for Valentine’s - or any other - Day! Download the free tutorial from her website

Free from Lebenslustiger : Chunky Knitted Heart Tutorialt 6


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Recycle with Style: Rag Rugs 8


February - A Thaw The snow is gone from cottage tops The thatch moss glows in brighter green And eves in quick succession drops Where icicles once hath been Pit patting wi a pleasant noise In tubs set by the cottage door While ducks and geese with happy joys Douse in the yard pond brimming oer.

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Embroidery Tips for Beginners 10


A (very) Little Look at Vintage Textiles Vintage textiles have the past woven into their threads - the hands that stitched them, the people who used to wear them and even the rooms in which they were used. It’s a very personal history, full of domestic detail. If you’re lucky enough to find a handmade quilt at market, in a thrift shop or antique fair, then it’s worth snapping up even if it’s not in the best state of repair as it’s relatively easy to mend these items - or make them into new pieces if they’re beyond use for their original purpose. Some of the fabrics used may be classics such as gingham, ticking or candy stripes and you can replace these without too much difficulty, but where other patches are torn or frayed you are unlikely to be able to match the pattern

precisely. The most important thing is to find fabrics of the same weight and composition so they don’t pull or tear each other, and can be washed in the same way. Quilts and other patchwork items were made to be used, not displayed, so if you want to contribute to an item’s history, then don’t be afraid to add your own fabrics to the mix and let it evolve for future generations to enjoy. Cut out damaged pieces by snipping the stitching around them very carefully with small sewing scissors that have sharp points. If there is quilting across the patch, cut through the quilting stitches too from the top of the quilt. Remove the patch so that you’re left with a hole in the patchwork (but not in the filling or

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backing). Cut a new piece of fabric (that has been preshrunk if you intend to wash your item in the future) and slip it inside the hole so that its edges are concealed. Slip stitch it neatly into place. Replace any quilting stitches by hand, matching the quilting on the rest of the item. To prevent further damage to vintage fabrics, try to keep items away from strong sunlight which will cause them first to fade and eventually to simply rot away. If the worst comes to the worst and you have an item, a quilt perhaps, where parts are quite beyond repair, then don’t give up on the whole thing - cut out good sections to turn into cushions, or perhaps to frame and hang on the wall


Flipping Lovely! Shrove Tuesday Pancakes

A M Graham 12


Whether you prefer them served in classic style - sprinkled with sugar and drizzled with lemon juice, oozing with golden syrup or smothered in Nutella (Rosie’s favourite), millions of pancakes will be enjoyed on Shrove Tuesday which this year falls on February 25. But as we fry, flip and devour these delicious treats, it’s fun to take a look back at how this traditional dish came about. Mention Shrove Tuesday in our house and we all instantly start to think of delicious pancakes, fried and flipped (will one get stuck to the ceiling? A family legend was born in the 1950’s when my Grandad allegedly flipped his pancake a little too enthusiastically and ended up having to scrape the results from the kitchen ceiling!) Shrove Tuesday, the last Tuesday before Lent is actually derived from the word “shrive” which has deeply religious roots. Worshippers would be called to church around midday when a large bell was rung to confess their sins and be absolved from them. The ceremony was known as being shriven and the tradition dates back over a thousand years. So how, you may well ask, did Shrove Tuesday, a day of confession and cleansing of sins become to be associated with pancakes? The answer is in the date - it was the last chance for a little indulgence before the Lenten fast began. Traditionally all fats from the kitchen and larder were gathered together and a large feast held - giving rise to the French name of Mardi Gras,

which translates as Fat Tuesday. Eggs, milk and all the other food that couldn’t be eaten and wouldn’t keep for the 40 days of Lent were cooked up with just a little flour - thus creating the perfect pancake recipe! Fasting would then begin on the very next day - Ash Wednesday, which refers to the ash cross drawn on the foreheads of Christians to symbolise immortality and to remember Christ. The rules of fasting have varied over time, sometimes requiring abstention from all meat and animal products, whilst at other times food such as fish was allowed. Pope St Gregory (d.604) wrote to St Augustine of Canterbury issuing the following decree: “We abstain from flesh, meat and from all things that come from flesh, as milk, cheese and eggs.” Today some people do still keep the full Lenten fast, but it’s more common to choose something particularly enjoyed such as chocolate to give up for the period. Pancake flipping is a tradition that is also centuries old.

It was written in 1619 that “Every man and maide do take their turne, and tosse their pancakes up for feare they burne.” The large bell used to call worshippers to church to be shriven also plays an important part in the history of pancakes and the pancake races that take place across the country on Shrove Tuesday. The story goes that on Shrove Tuesday in 1445 a woman in Olney was busy cooking pancakes in her kitchen when she lost track of time. Upon hearing the bell calling everyone to church she raced out of the house and all the way to church clutching her frying pan (complete with pancake we are told) and still wearing her apron. The date of Pancake Day varies each year as its dependent upon Easter Sunday since Lent always begins 40 days before Easter. Though we enjoy pancakes throughout the years, there’s nothing quite like the day itself, when we can take turns to flip the batter, garnish our pancakes with all kinds of tasty toppings to be enjoyed with friends and family.


Signs of Spring

In early February you may well spot one of the earliest signs of spring - pussy willow in the hedgerows. This is the name given to willow stems bearing small soft and fluffy grey catkins. The UK is home to a number of different willow species, including the weeping willow, crack willow and white willow (which supplies the wood used for cricket bats). Goat and grey, or sallow, willow are those which produce these delightful pussy willow catkins. Look out for them in woodland, hedgerows and wasteland, in particular in damp and boggy areas near lakes, streams and ponds.

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A Little Look at Snowdrops At this time of year, though the stretch of grey cold days may seem endless, nature is beginning to stir. There are hazel catkins in the hedgerows, the sharp green spikes of daffodils and other spring bulbs are visible emerging through the leaf litter of last year, and those earliest of all flowers, snowdrops, are clustered in abundance beneath the trees and shrubs in my somewhat wild and overgrown garden.

to say while they are still in active growth and just after flowering. I love to bring them indoors first, potting them in a little garden soil, topping with moss to prevent drying out, and enjoy them on our cool windowsills. This is a great way of appreciating their delicate blooms up close and also of bringing just a little taste of spring into the house, before I transplant them once again into their final positions to rest up through the summer months.

Now is the best time to lift and transplant snowdrops as they are best moved and planted again whilst “in the green�, that is

The pattern on the following pages shows a cluster of snowdrops planted in just this way in an old Cornishware jug.

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Blast from the Past: Early Spring Snowdrops I love to see the snowdrops appearing in the banks and hedgerows around and about my home. One of the earliest signs of spring, they seem to be such brave little flowers, daring to bloom on the coldest, darkest winter days. This hoop celebrates this earliest sign of spring, inspired by a few I picked and brought indoors to enjoy this month. Shown mounted in 7” hoop.

Materials Ÿ 10” square biscuit coloured linen/cotton or blend Ÿ 10” x 3” patterned fabric for tablecloth - I used a vintage blanket scrap Ÿ 4” square white felt Ÿ Scraps dark blue cotton fabric

Ÿ Anchor stranded cotton embroidery floss in colours 2, 254, 256, 845, 861, 926 Ÿ Black and cream sewing thread Ÿ Embroidery foot for your sewing machine Ÿ Bondaweb


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Method ● Lay your tablecloth fabric on top of the background fabric aligning the bottom edges, then machine stitch along the top edge of the tablecloth fabric to join both pieces together (1) ● Use the reversed template to trace off the shapes for your applique pieces onto the paper side of your Bondaweb. Cut out a whole mug shape in white felt, then position the blue stripes on the top of this shape. (2)

● Cut out roughly, then fuse to the reverse of your fabrics in accordance with the colour guide on the next page. Then cut out smoothly. ● Position your shapes on the background fabric. The base of the mug should be centred vertically and approx 1” below the top edge of the tablecloth fabric, then add the blue stripes. When you’re happy with the positioning of each piece fuse the in place using a hot iron. (Use a cloth to protect your felt shapes from the iron) ● Fit the embroidery foot to your sewing machine and drop the feed dogs. With black thread in your needle and a lighter colour in the bobbin go around the outline


● of the mug and the edges of the blue stripes twice. Don’t be too neat, you are aiming for a sort of scribbled effect. (3) ● Now transfer the snowdrops design to your background fabric. Notice that the stems overlap the white felt at the top of the mug and finish at the top of the first

blue stripe - as though the stems were sitting in the mug. (4) ● Stitch your snowdrops in accordance with the stitch guide.


Tastes of the Season: February

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A little look at Hand Embroidery Threads To create a beautiful piece of hand embroidery you must choose not only the right fabric, but the best threads too. The most commonly used are cotton, silk and wool - readily available across the globe. Let’s take a look at these three (and more) ….

Stranded floss

good idea to invest in a shade card as the colours displayed on your screen are by no means guaranteed to be accurate.

Stranded cotton thread - popularly referred to as embroidery floss - is by far and away the most commonly chosen fibre for hand embroidery. It’s easy to find too as it’s sure to be in stock at your local hobby/crafting or haberdashery store. There are also hundreds of online suppliers to choose from - though if you’re planning to purchase online it’s a

Whatever the brand - and do choose carefully as some of the cheaper brands are not nice to work with - your stranded cotton floss will consist of six separate strands that it’s really easy to separate. To separate the strands pull the required length from the skein (there is a right and wrong end to pull - the right end is usually found at the end of the skein

Cotton

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closest to the numbered band. If you pull the wrong end you will end up with a nasty tangled mess!) When you’ve cut your length pull the threads apart gently at the centre allowing them to gently untwist from each other.

Perle (or Pearl) Thread This is a tightly twisted, lustrous thread that isn’t divisible. This tight twist gives it a more textured effect than stranded floss and the stitches tend to look more “plump” against the background fabric. It


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