FALL 2011
$12
UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLE
STYLE MATTERS
MAKING A GOOD IMPRESSION HAS NEVER BEEN MORE IMPORTANT
REFLECTING ON FALL LUSH KNITS, COMFY CASHMERES, VELVETY CORDS...
KITON.IT
KITON.IT
Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street San Francisco 415.986.4380 450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto 650.322.7080 RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Wilkes Bashford CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell-Namdar MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser
FEATURES
MANAGING EDITOR
6 10 56 58 60 78 88
PROJECT MANAGER
Welcome Letter The Commission Myth Notes from Italy Tailor’s Corner Design: Haute Hospitality Profile: Luciano Barbera Profile: A Decade of Agave
Jillian Sprague Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton CREATIVE DIRECTION
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
FASHION 26 28 64 66 80
Fashion Q&A: Kimberly McDonald Modern Lords & Ladies Basic Instincts Why Style Matters The Richest Looks Are Seasonal
DEPARTMENTS 8 12 20 74 76 86 90 92
Upcoming Events Happenings Friends & Trends Travel: The Eyes Have It World Scene Food: Cooking With the Stars End Page: Closet Therapy At Your Service
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 12 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 14, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.
WELCOME
A LETTER FROM THE MITCHELLS FAMILY
WILKES GETS “REFIT” FOR 2012 It’s finally happening! Despite the incredible nostalgia we all feel for our unique retail environment, we are moving into an exciting new era. Breaking ground this October, we will be “refitting” our San Francisco store to offer our customers a new and spectacular shopping experience. We are leaving no stone unturned. We’re gutting the entire store, adding an additional floor of selling and windows for more natural light, as well as rearranging the store so that all women’s and men’s departments will be contiguous. We’re adding high-speed elevators to keep things moving. Best of all, it will be gorgeous, capturing the essence of the Wilkes Bashford vision as well as the best of San Francisco style. We are committed to making these changes as seamless as possible. Working “floor by floor” so that the construction will be well-contained, it will be shopping as usual and service will remain uninterrupted. Most importantly, the “heart and soul” of the
store, your favorite associates, will all be here and their commitment to providing the service you expect from us will be unwavering. As you’ll see on the coming pages, we have been busy stocking both of our stores for fall with some of the most magnificent
fashions the world has to offer! We look forward to dressing you with incomparable style this season... and to the exciting year to come at Wilkes Bashford!
The Mitchell Family & Wilkes Bashford
WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE WITH A DISTINCTLY SAN-FRANCISCAN STYLE After an exhaustive search, we are thrilled to anounce that we have chosen Gensler, the globally-renowned architecture firm, headquartered in San Francisco, to design our milestone renovation. Gensler is the
world’s largest “architecture only” firm. After searching the world for the most exciting retail spaces today, we felt that only Gensler could offer us the best in retail space innovation combined with a
uniquely San Franciscan point of view. We aim to capture the essence and elegance of the iconic Wilkes Bashford style and all it stands for and combine it with the amenities and seamless
convenience of today’s most spectacular retail spaces. We look forward to exceeding your expectations and creating a true San Francisco landmark to be enjoyed for generations to come!
LIKE GREAT CLOTHING, A GREAT CLOTHING STORE OCCASIONALLY NEEDS TO BE “REFIT.” AFTER 45 YEARS, WE’RE THRILLED TO BE REVAMPING OUR SAN FRANCISCO STORE TO CREATE AN ICONIC SHOPPING EXPERIENCE!
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
FALL 2011
EVENT SCHEDULE 9/13-15
MICHAEL BORIS TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
9/15-17
BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
9/16-17
BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
9/22-24
KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/1
ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/11-12
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/12-13
BRIONI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
10/14-15
BRIONI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/14-15
KITON WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
10/14-16
KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
10/28-29
MICHAEL KORS TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/29
HAMILTON SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
10/29
SARTORIA PARTENOPEA TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
11/3-5
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
11/11-12
KITON WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
For a complete list of events, go to
WILKESBASHFORD.COM
ASSOCIATES
IN AN EFFORT TO SERVE YOU BETTER
“BY ELIMINATING COMMISSIONS AND CREATING A TEAM APPROACH, OUR CUSTOMERS GET TO WORK WITH A VARIETY OF PROFESSIONALS, EACH OF WHOM ARE SPECIALISTS IN DIFFERENT AREAS .”
THE COMMISSION MYTH One of the most common misconceptions about our stores is that Wilkes Bashford sales associates work on commission. In reality, we have recently eliminated commissions. We did this in an effort to make shopping in our stores an ever more relaxed and friendly experience. This way, our customers are free to work with their “tried and true” associates or with anyone whom they choose, without ever feeling like they have to wait for help
or offend someone if they “float around.” Also, this way our customers get the benefit of working with a team of professionals, all of whom have different areas of expertise—be it an accessories expert or a jewelry expert or a ready-towear expert—and so on. The metaphor that comes to mind is the discomfort people feel when changing hairdressers within a salon. We don’t want customers to ever feel this way at Wilkes
Bashford! Our professionals have different strengths and different styles. Please work with and get to know them all! We are always striving to make improvements in our stores. Our professionals have happily embraced this new team approach, which makes the experience more pleasant for them as well. Realizing we never formally announced this change in any way, we thought you, our friends and customers, would like to know!
“One of the charms of Wilkes Bashford is our knowledgeable and eclectic team mix of sales associates. With our new team approach, we hope you will get to know all of us!” — Jack Mitchell
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
A ROYAL FLUSH POKER PARTY
The focus was on winning for the Omega Boys Club of San Francisco.
A great hand was dealt for the Omega Boys Club of San Francisco this January. Wilkes Bashford was overflowing with excitement as guests put their Texas Hold’em skills to the test, raising more then $45,000 for the San Francisco-based charity. Hosted by 11-time World Series of Poker Champion Phil Hellmuth, guests included former 49er and Football Hall of Famer Ronnie Lott, Willie Brown and 49ers President Jed York. Our very own Tyler “Royal Flush” Mitchell sat among our guests, including first-place winner Carlos Alberini, at the final table.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
ART MEETS FASHION Exciting looks and winning fashions filled the room; Tyler Mitchell and Stephanie O’Shana share a hug; the lively auction benefitted the museum’s exhibits.
It was a picture perfect evening brought together through Art and Fashion. Scores of people gathered at Wilkes Bashford San Francisco this March for a shopping night to raise money during SFMOMA’s annual gala auction to benefit the museum’s exhibitions.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
THE EVENT THAT WAS FABULOUS A spirited raffle supported WAS Foundation; brothers Jacob and Jesse Kovacs
The WAS Foundation, striving to raise money in support of individuals and families struggling with Wiskott Aldrich Syndrome, partnered with Wilkes Bashford to host an evening to remember. Guests sipped signature Artá tequila cocktails, noshed on hors d’oeuvres and enjoyed an exclusive fashion presentation of the latest spring trends, all in support of the WAS Foundation.
Models strike a pose in the latest fashion trends; a fabulous time was had by all.
C E L E B R AT I N G 2 5 Y E A R S O F MODERN CLASSIC DESIGN
live life beautifully
W W W. T E M P L E S T C L A I R . C O M 1.800.590.7985
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
STEPPING OUT FOR SPRING
Guests dined in style as models presented this year’s must-haves.
Guests turned out for an afternoon full of food, wine, fashion and fun at the Taj Campton Place Restaurant in San Francisco. Jeff Garelick, our director of sales, educated women on all the key trends and must-haves for the season while dining on an amazing lunch by the newly Michelan-starred restaurant. If you haven’t been, pop over for lunch on your next visit to Wilkes.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
SUNNY SMILES FOR PARCA EVENT
Models on the runway showcase the latest fashions; sunny smiles from Andrew Namdar-Mitchell, Jeff Garelick, Jack Mitchell and guests.
Though fall was in the air, spring was everywhere at our annual Parca Luncheon and Fashion Show in Hillsborough, California. Rain and cold weather didn’t stop 400-plus women from coming out to support a great cause. Luckily, just moments before the fashion show was due to start, the rain came to a halt and the show went on flawlessly. Guests were “taken away” by the exciting clothes, jewelry and accessories for the season. Parca is a non-profit organization striving to enrich the lives of those with developmental disabilities. Thank you for inviting us to return last spring for a second time and thanks to all involved.
kwiat.com r earrings from the Kwiat Legacy Collection
friends trends
&
YOUR FAVORITE BUYERS & ASSOCIATES PICK THEIR FAVORITE TRENDS FOR THE SEASON.
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY: ROBERT NORMAN, STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: GUS CANTAVERO, STYLING: KATIE GROSS
PLAIDS & TARTANS “GO SCOTTISH AND DON’T BE AFRAID TO MIX IT UP WITH A BOLD NAVAJO KNITS
NEW TWIST ON A CLASSIC.”
ALL THAT SHIMMERS
“NATIVE AMERICAN-INSPIRED
“SEQUINS, STUDS, APPLIQUÉ...
KNITS AND PATTERNS ARE ONE OF
EVEN SHINY METALLIC ACCESSO-
THE SEASON’S HOTTEST LOOKS.”
RIES. ADD A LAYER OF SPARKLE”
friends trends
&
SHOW US YOUR LEATHER
“MOVE OVER MOTORCYCLE
JACKETS. LEATHER IS TURNING UP IN SKIRTS, DRESSES, AS TRIM AND OF COURSE... WITH LACE!” Nadine Martin/Palo Alto Having Fun with Fashion Since 2003
2
3
1
1. Brunello Cucinelli yoke waist full leather skirt
4
2. The Row quilted sleeve leather Bexton dress 3. Brunello Cucinelli East West tote 4. Bettye Muller wedge boot 5. Manolo Blahnik bow pump 6. Carven sleeve lace dress
4
7. Zhor & Nema beaded sweater 8. Nancy Gonzalez navy crocodile shoulder bag
5
6 8
7
’60S LADYLIKE
“LACE, BOWS, DAINTY HANDBAGS AND LOTS OF
FRILL AND TRIM. AND DON’T BE AFRAID TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER JACKIE O.” Erikka Pascual/Palo Alto Making Silicon Valley Stunning Since 2006
OFF THE CUFF
“WIDE INTRICATE BRACELETS, ORNATE CUFFS WITH
LOTS OF DETAIL. THINK CHUNKY... THE BOLDER THE BETTER!” Karen Sussman/San Francisco Loving Dressing You Up Since 1998
2 1. Kimberly McDonald geode and diamond bracelet 2. Ashley Pittman Alama bangles
1
3.Temple St. Clair vine cuff 5. Cole Haan riding boot 6. Mely’s toggle closure knit cape
2
7. Loro Piana shearling cape 8. Etro fur-trimmed toggle closure printed cape
3 4
6
7
5
CAPED CRUSADERS
“CAPES, PONCHOS AND ANORAKS IN
GREAT FABRICS WITH FUN TRIMMINGS ARE CHIC AND CAN BE THROWN OVER ANYTHING!” Christine Robbins Buying Fabulous Fashions for our Stores Since 1988
friends trends
&
SHIRT ALERT
“PRINT OR SOLID, MAN-STYLE OR FEMININE, CROPPED, RUFFLED
OR EVEN A GREAT MAXI SHIRTDRESS... HAVE FUN WITH SHIRTS THIS SEASON!” Lotta Velger/San Francisco Keeping San Francisco in Style Since 2006
2
1. Luciano Barbera stand collar shirt 2. Michael Kors python print archive dress
1
3. Etro floral print blouse 4. Valentino Red ruffle front blouse 5. Manolo Blahnik d’Orsay sandal 6. Judith Leiber crystal clutch 7. Kwiat diamond studs 8. Jimmy Choo glitter slingback
3
4 4
7 5 8 6
SHINE ON
“METALLICS, SEQUINS, PATENT LEATHER AND OF COURSE...
SOME BLING! ACCESSORIES THAT SHINE ADD ‘POP’ TO WOOL AND OTHER FALL FABRICS.” James Schmedel/Palo Alto Making Women Shine for 12 Years!
friends trends
&
MIX UP YOUR OUTERWEAR
“EVERYDAY FOR
MONTHS, YOU’LL LIKELY NEED A COAT! OUR NEW ARRIVALS OFFER IMPECCABLE PERFORMANCE AND STYLE. ONE COAT WILL NOT TAKE YOU EVERYWHERE... MIX IT UP!”
Joe Durst/San Francisco Keeping You Well-Dressed Since 1986
2 3
1
1. Luciano Barbera suede shirt 2. Ermenegildo Zegna reversible coat
4
3. Gimos calf blouson 4. Edward Armah “pocket circles” 5. Incotex washed cords 6. Bontoni lace-ups 7. Loro Piana cashmere Roadster
5 4
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COUNTRY GENTLEMAN
“TREAT YOURSELF TO A SUPPLE
SUEDE SHIRT, SOFT-AS-VELVET CORDS, A SUMPTUOUS SWEATER OR SOME PICTURE PERFECT LEATHER SHOES. COMFORTABLE ELEGANCE IS THE WAY TO GO.”
Robert Simmons/Palo Alto Making Sure You Look Sharp Since 2001
FASHION Q & A
JEWELRY DESIGNER KIMBERLY MCDONALD
KIMBERLY MCDONALD ON BEGINNINGS, ADORNING THE FIRST LADY AND THE POWER OF ROCKS... What attracted you to working with geodes? I love natural materials and geodes are an incredible creation of nature… agates with quartz crystallization inside them. They conduct energy and have raw appeal. We don’t do anything to them. We just clean and slice them, so they’re as close to coming from the earth as possible. Each is one of a kind. Each has its own little personality and every person will be attracted to a different one.
diamonds); and friends (the ones that know you at your worst and still stick around). I split my time between New York for work and Los Angeles for peace of mind. It’s a production to travel with all of my chihuahuas, but I can’t live without them!
What is your favorite place you go to escape it all? I adore Kona on the Big Island in Hawaii. It is so beautiful and unspoiled and you can swim with sea turtles, ryday which come up everyday at the same time! I love ove them and have designed gned a Sea Turtle collection, which serves to raise funds and awareness for the plight of endangered species through Conservation International, an organization that I strongly believe in.
Who are your favorite clothing designers and which is the best designer to pair your jewelry with? Missoni and Brunello Cucinelli... I love to wear them personally and I love the way they look with my jewelry.
Your business has soared in just 3½ years. Who are some of the celebrities wearing your pieces?
Since I was a child in Asheville, NC, I loved collecting all kinds of agates and cool stones. As a curator of private jewelry collections, I started designing pieces for clients with stones I acquired for them. I wanted to start collecting jewelry myself, but I didn’t see anything really unique in my price range... everything had a mass-produced feel. So one day, I made myself a pair of geode earrings. A friend of mine offered to buy them off of me, but I didn’t want to sell them. Then she made me an offer I couldn’t refuse and as they say, the rest is history.
What are 5 things in you can’t live without? My chihuahuas ( Dad Oliver, Mama Gracie, babies Linus, Jackson, Angus and Otto); music (from Kanye to Rascal Flatts. Adele, Usher, Puccini… Music is an integral part of life for me.); good champagne (pink, preferably); rocks (geodes, opals, agates,
“IT IS SO EXCITING THAT MRS. OBAMA HAS CHOSEN SEVERAL OF MY PIECES AS SHE TRULY HAS ACCESS TO EVERYTHING!”
PHOTO CREDITS: MATT MURPHY, THERESE MCKEON AND BRUCE SOYEZ-BERNARD
How did you get started?
We’ve been really lucky that so many amazing, recognizable people have responded to the collection and ask to wear our pieces to special events. One of the most exciting things was Sex and the City 2. The film is such an iconic fashion ensemble and our pieces are in just about every major scene, plus SJP and Kim Catrell wore them on the red carpet. Mrs. Obama has also been wearing my pieces a lot this year. It is exciting that she has chosen them as she truly has access to everything!
Who living or not do you most wish to design a piece of jewelry for? I honestly don’t aspire to design for anyone famous. To me, the most exciting sales are when I see someone really connecting with a piece I’ve created. The stones each have their own energy and when I see a woman fall in love with one, it is moving that a piece she connects with will become an heirloom for her children... that she can wear it over the years and enjoy it as part of her collection.
“I SPLIT MY TIME BETWEEN NEW YORK AND LOS ANGELES... IT’S A PRODUCTION TO TRAVEL WITH ALL OF MY BABIES, BUT I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT THEM!” “EACH GEODE IS ONE OF A KIND. EACH HAS ITS OWN LITTLE PERSONALITY AND EVERY PERSON WILL BE ATTRACTED TO A DIFFERENT ONE.”
What have you found special about working with the Mitchells Family of Stores? The Mitchells get retail better than most anyone. They have a real gem in Jennifer Celli, my buyer, who is pretty much unparalleled in the business. She has incredible integrity and standards in working with designers. I never have to worry about looking in the cases and seeing a less expensive imitation of my work, which goes on all the time. As a designer that makes me very comfortable. To me, a good store is an edit of what’s in the market. They see everything and whittle it down to what’s worth presenting to the client. It’s fun to go into their stores, it feels like a home, like a family. They know kids’ names, what schools they go to, if a relative is sick. Their stores have an atmosphere you don’t find anywhere else.
AK R I S LUCIANO BARBERA
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With the royal wedding not far behind us, what better way to savor the spirit than with a romantic jaunt to a real castle?
The British Isles are spotted with spectacular castles, former and current homes to the landed gentry. Today, many house worldclass resorts, welcoming modern day lords and ladies from around the world to enjoy the beauty and AKRIS $.5,6 lifestyle of a bygone eraâ&#x20AC;Ś
AK R I S BOG N ER
AKRIS B RU NE LL O CU CIN E LLI
AK R I S L O RO PI ANA
AKRIS J. M E NDE L
AK R I S ETON
AKRIS E R M E NE GILDO Z E GNA
AK R I S S TEFAN O RI C C I
AKRIS E T RO
STORIES:
faraway
AK R I S AG N ONA
AKRIS BRUNE LL O CU CIN E LL K I M BE RLY M CDO NALD
Queen of the Castle Embody modern glamour in a long dress with an even longer slit. This season, womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion is creative and glamorous. Add some sparkle. Experiment with layering. Explore assymetry. Wear lots of chunky jewelry... and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget some fur!
AK R I S OS C A R DE LA RENTA
AKRIS AKRIS
AK R I S MI C HAEL KORS
C OL E HAAN
AKRIS LAGO S
AK R I S FINAMORE
giants nts who walked the earth with heavy footstep C OL E HAAN
AKRIS
KITO N
AK R I S PA MELA ROLAND
AKRIS PAUL M O RE LLI
AK R I S VA L EN TI NO
AKRIS YIGAL AZ RO U E L
AK R I S BR I ON I
AKRIS BRIO NI
Squire for the Lady For fall, menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashions feel as good as they look. Keep it cozy in suede shoes, yummy cords, comfy sweaters and soft outerwear. Add just the right twist of style to all the great textures of fall with a great plaid sportcoat, a striped or checked shirt and a killer tie.
AK R I S I N C OTEX
AKRIS SA RTO R IA PART E N O P E A
AK R I S L O RO PI ANA
AKRIS AG AVE
NOTES FROM ITALY AN ADVENTURE IN FASHION
EDUCATION & INSPIRATION... (NOT TO MENTION INCREDIBLE FOOD!)
OUR PILGRIMAGE TO KITON “Enjoying life... and being different... this is Kiton,” warmly proclaims Kiton chairman Massimo Bizzochi. Indeed, under Bizzochi’s infectiously upbeat stewardship, at Kiton, they certainly get it right. From their famed “vault” with thousands of new and vintage Kiton fabrics, to tailors that are encouraged “not to rush,” spending 25 to 50 hours handstiching each K-model jacket, perfection is a way of life. Having always wanted to make a “pilgrimage” to the famed Naples factory, I accompanied our Master Tailor, Antonello Pagliuca, on a dual mission: to have Antenollo trained by Kiton’s illustrious tailors and to hand-pick and bring back over a hundred bolts of sophisticated “Wilkes Bashford-looking” fabrics to offer our customers. Walking station to station, I saw huge smiles and a pride in craftsmanship rarely seen today. It dawned on me that compared to other factories (and I’ve been to a lot!) these people were HAPPY!
Maybe best of all: the Kiton factory has their own chef on site. Like any factory, it’s important to the workflow that everybody break at once. So, when the lunch horn blows, everybody stops and they all head up to the “cantina” where they cook a fresh meal everyday— meat, pasta, bread, cheese, wine, espresso...
Massimo’s outlook on life is simple: Enjoy it, be who you are, be kind and have fun. He is truly Kiton’s pride and joy and we are blessed to work with him. Our trip to Naples was one of a kind, much mirroring the Kiton product! —Tyler Mitchell
Antonello Pagliuca, Massimo Bizzochi, Salvatore Tranchino, Tyler Mitchell
ANTONELLO PAGLIUCA BECOMES FIRST TAILOR IN THE U.S. TO BE “KITON CERTIFIED”! At Wilkes Bashford, we’re always striving to learn and become the best at what we do. So who was I to turn down Massimo’s challenge (or putting Antonello up to his challenge) of becoming the first U.S. tailor to be “Kiton-Certified?” The Kiton floor is an exciting place to learn. True tailors, they
each can work at any station... sewing on arms, stitching lapels, etc. They conduct their own quality checks with no overseer. If someone, makes a mistake, they will hear about it! Unlike companies that claim you need 300 stitches in a lapel, at Kiton they evaluate each garment and fabric weight.
Everything is a judgement call. For Wilkes Master Tailor Antonello Pagliuca, it was a dream come true. Born in Naples to a father who was a tailor, after some quick “Italian Geography,” he found he went to the same tailoring school as Kiton’s pattern maker. Antonello learned their cutter’s
technique of tracing patterns, met with the pattern maker, even the woman who translates our orders into Italian. He spent three full days at The Kiton Factory, getting a great feel for each step. So now we have America’s only Kiton-Certified tailor! Come in and say “congratulazione!”
“MY MISSION WAS TO BRING BACK OVER 100 BOLTS OF SOPHISTICATED ‘WILKES-BASHFORD-STYLE’ FABRICS... OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE TO DRAPE THE BOLTS OVER THEIR SHOULDERS AND GET AN IDEA OF HOW A JACKET WOULD LOOK. IT’S A LOT EASIER THAN WORKING FROM A TINY SWATCH!”
TAILOR’S CORNER
IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT FIT
A CUSTOM FIT FROM AN OFF-THERACK SUIT? JUST ASK YOUR TAILOR. While it’s a wonderful luxury to have a completely custom suit made for you from the bottom up, you can enjoy a “custom fit” from any suit we sell, if you are willing to work with our tailors. Having a suit you’ve purchased at any of our stores tailored is a complimentary service we provide, so why not try it? Our tailors are up-to-date on the latest styles, cuts and fits, which they execute with an old-world commitment to the craft that we believe is second to none. Following are some guidelines on what to work on when “customizing” your suit!
KEY AREAS TO FOCUS ON WHEN WORKING WITH YOUR TAILOR: JACKET
PANTS
Shoulders If the shoulder doesn’t fit right, you shouldn’t be buying the suit. It is the first measure of a well-fitting suit. Today’s shoulder should be fitted, not too bulky and not too tight.
Waist If you have broad shoulders and a narrow waist, a suit will be more flattering if you have the waist taken in, which may involve adding darts.
Leg Width Pant legs should not be baggy nor should they be so tight they’re constrictive. For a slimmer silhouette, discuss taking the leg in if you think it’s too loose.
Lapels Today, lapels are a bit narrower and they should always lay flat. Have the tailor make sure they meet the tips of your shirt collar.
Sleeves Your suit sleeve should be a bit shorter than it used to be, not below your wrist. Have it shortened so that about half an inch of shirt sleeve shows.
Leg Break Some men prefer no break at all, but many feel this makes the pant feel a bit too short. Most prefer a slight break so that the pant rests on the top of the shoe.
Jacket Length The jacket should fall so that the bottom hits the tip of your thumb.
design
Haute HOSPITALITY
IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS ARE FASHION’S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
T H E
U L T I M A T E
T R O U S E R
Previous page, clockwise from top left: Bottega Veneta for the St. Regis in Rome; Dolce & Gabbana Gold restaurant in Milan; the bar at Gold Below, left: Cavalli Club, Florence Right: Ralph Lauren’s Ralph’s restaurant, Paris
n the 1970s fashion designers were satisfied to have their names scrawled on the back pockets of your jeans. Over the ensuing decade, they discovered a way to put their stamp on everything from fragrance, sunglasses and leather goods to furniture and bedding. Now they want you to experience their own lavish lifestyles by enveloping you in their signature luxury hotel suites and posh dining rooms. The trend escalated this past year when nearly a dozen new hotels were autographed by top designers—from Giorgio Armani’s sleek, ambitious Armani Hotel Dubai and Bulgari’s bucolic Balinese retreat, to Missoni’s stylish Scottish hideaway and Christian Lacroix’s French boulangerie-turned-bed and breakfast. It’s not only the newest way to propagate their names: designers insist the evanescent hotel or dining experience acts as a kind of “live-in portfolio” of their work. Giorgio Armani features custom-made furniture and decorative objects from his Armani/Casa home collection in his namesake hotels, the second of which is scheduled to open in Milan early next year. “I wanted to see how the collection would look when applied to real spaces,” says the designer, who adds that the idea gives hotel guests an opportunity to sam-
ple the furnishings in a living situation before investing in them for their own homes. Recognizable designer fabrics and furnishings also encourage guests to form an emotional connection with the hotel—and the brand. And while hotels offer the opportunity to live like Armani or Versace for days or even weeks, restaurants can offer the same “lifestyle experience” in a matter of hours. Take Ralph Lauren, whose fashion forays range from the highbrow sartorial chic of London’s Savile Row to the Rocky Mountain highs of Colorado. Inside Ralph’s, located in the designer’s Paris store, Lauren brings his idealized world to life. The chic eatery is infused with his signature British-Americana stamp, from the vintage leather seating and equestrian-themed artwork right down to the menu, which includes beef raised on Lauren’s own RRL Ranch. “The story of the menu is like the classic film An American in Paris,” says Lauren. “The food is genuinely American, but set in a mood that is genuinely international.” In a more flashy setting, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
imbued their Milanese restaurant Gold with a mix of exotic materials—pink and gray arabesque-patterned marble, high gloss steel, gold leather—that they consider to be architectural equivalents of their clothing. While today’s designers would like you to believe they invented the haute hospitality trend, that honor actually goes to Pierre Cardin, who bought the fashionable French bistro Maxims in 1981 and has subsequently turned it into an international brand. “I suspect if you look hard enough you could find Pierre Cardin’s name on a screwdriver,” jokes American designer Todd Oldham, whose own foray into the hospitality game started in 1999 with the opening of The Hotel and its adjoining Wish restaurant in Miami, and continued this year with the christening of 20 new suites. Oldham is now in negotiations to design a hotel in Chicago. “It’s very smart of developers to find tastemakers from other [creative] areas who can enhance the hotel experience,” says Oldham, who believes fashion designers are naturally more sensitive to aesthetics, form and function than typical hotel designers. “Because we tend to focus on making you look good, we can also make you look good in a room.”
DESIGNER FABRICS AND FURNISHINGS ENCOURAGE GUESTS TO FORM AN EMOTIONAL CONNECTION WITH THE HOTEL—AND THE BRAND.
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BASIC Instincts Fabulous basics a are the building blocks of a great wardrobe ob be and are also at the forefront of fa fashion! ashion! Here are 14 timeless e essentials for fall...
Riding Boot
Not just for horses... a horses.. riding great rid like this boot, lik Duccio one by D Ducca, Del Duc goes out never go of style.
Wide Belt
Unconstructed Blazer
Throw this crocodile belt by L.A.I. over a sweater, a blouse or a dress and add instant style.
by Anissejlife. Knit blazers are less constricting and much cozier than their structured counterparts.
Diamond Hoops by Kwiat. Just the right amount of sparkle for dress up or everyday.
Not Your Grandma’s Silk Scarf
Avant Toi takes vintage Hermès and Ferragamo silk scarves and lines them with cashmere, each one an original.
Robe Coat
It’s time to replace your old wool coat! Cashmere Robe Coat by Fleurette.
Leopard p Slingback
Who says neutral has to be boring? A perfect alternative to the classic pump by Manolo Blahnik.
Long White Shirt
by Walter Voulez. Ideal to throw on with leggings or skinny pants and a great pair of boots.
Anything Camel
The “it” basic color for shoes, bags, clothing, outerwear, everywhere. Shown: Michael Kors
Iconic Amulet
Designed to ward off evil, once you own Temple St. Clair’s crystal amulet, you’ll find it hard to take it off!
“Go to” Tote
Go to work, go to dinner, go on a trip... the Gia Satchel by Michael Kors is the “it bag” that goes everywhere.
Cozy Cashmeres
3 great basic styles: crew, v-neck and turtle in 3 essential colors by Kinross.
STYLE MATTERS WHY
Making a good impression has never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier! What does your wardrobe say about you? In the business world or out of it? Attuned to whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current? Appreciator of fine quality?
Do you want to look more successful? More attractive? Sexier? More sophisticated? The first place to start is with your clothes. Studies show that welldressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are
more attractive to the opposite sex. While saving you money, dressing in dated or unflattering clothing can cost you a lot. Following are simple tips on how to spruce your look, because yes, style matters!
simple updates for all your modes...
1. Dressy Casual
2. Sartorial
BUILDING A GREAT WARDROBE IS SIMPLER THAN YOU THINK.
3. Sporty Casual
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS) CAN BE BUILT.
Dressy Casual
THE ESSENTIAL
SPORTCOAT THE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
No single item is more effective in transforming a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and concealing all the right body parts...
Plaid Classic A great neutral Russ Mitchell plaid adds instant style to a pair of jeans and moves gracefully from office to dinner.
Color Statement A bolder plaid in rich fall colors adds excitement to solid basics and layers well with sweaters.
Unconstructed A soft, unlined jacket is an indispensable basic this season. It looks casually elegant and fits like a second skin!
Collegiate Corduroy Toasty warm and versatile, corduroy has come back with a vengeance.
Soft Cashmere Unconstructed and elegant, it works with dress pants, jeans and everything in between.
Sartorial
(NEW)
FIT
The New Slimmer Silhouette is here to stay
From a first interview to the corner office, one properly fitting neutral suit in a transitional fabric is an essential basic for the well-dressed man.
The Intellectual Add a sweater to a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.
The Young Turk A well-cut dark suit can take you everywhere... and a great wool tie is an easy way to add some personality.
The Player A fun shirt (without a tie) with an open suit jacket is a refreshing upgrade to jeans.
which SUITS you?
The Statesman Herringbone in warm fall tones plus a buttoned vest spells confidence.
The Mogul Navy pinstripe suit, blue shirt, red tie, slim cut... need we say more?
Sporting Event With Client A quilted, fitted, double-breasted jacket is as warm as it is flattering.
Weekend Outing Cold, blustery days can be faced in style with an elegant update to the classic parka.
Sporty Casual
RELAXED
STYLE Soccer Sidelines Throw a great scarf over a versatile pullover and be the best looking dad on the field.
Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the weekend, or you just want it to feel that way.
Country Drive Go antiquing and lunching in style in a chocolate suede driving jacket, also perfect for everyday.
travel
The 19th-century Pepperpot Tower was modeled on a peppermill belonging to the seventh Viscount Powerscourt, Mervyn Wingfield.
Green visions abound in the gardenscapes of the Dublin countryside. By David Lyon When filmmakers want to evoke the formal lush countryside of Georgian Ireland or the mythical Celtic landscape of dappled glades, they train their cameras on Powerscourt Estate, one of the greenest corners of the Emerald Isle. Set on Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorstep in County Wicklow, the gated lands originally surrounded a 13th-century castle that helped guard the city. In 1731, the lord of Powerscourt upgraded to the iconic Georgian manor that still occupies the high ground, gazing across a rich array of gardens and over a small lake to the hunched backs of the Wicklow Mountains.
For full immersion in the lifestyle of latter-day Irish gentry, retire to the RitzCarlton Powerscourt, where you can nurse a tumbler of Tyrconnell single-malt Irish whiskey on the terrace. The 200-room resort opened in 2007 and is just a fiveminute saunter from the Powerscourt manor. Its stately Palladian architecture and Georgian-inspired décor are complemented by the sybaritic ESPA spa and invisible (but indispensable) contemporary technology. Concierges can advise guests on the
wet his whistle, a good bet might be O’Donoghue’s, a pub established in 1792 only a block away. The barkeeps still pull a fine pint of Guinness, and the room is famous for its nightly live music. The Ritz-Carlton has its own pub, McGills, where the Albaquirky Turkeys play a driving version of traditional Irish music. The resort’s gastronomic jewel, though, is its casual fine-dining restaurant, Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt, the London-based chef’s first Irish venture. Conceived as a farm-to-fork venue relying
IMAGES BY DAVID LYON; SUITE IMAGE BY VISION PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF RITZ-CARLTON POWERSCOURT
YOU COULD SPEND DAYS AT POWERSCOURT SAVORING THE IRISH GENIUS FOR LANDSCAPE GARDENING OR WANDERING LIKE MYTHIC KING FERGUS IN THE GENTLE WILDS OF THE WOODLANDS AND MEADOWS OF THE 1,000 ACRE ESTATE. This page, top: A fountain in Walled Garden at Powerscourt Gardens Center: Gordon Ramsay’s County Wicklow lamb with potato galette Bottom: The Mountain View Suite at RitzCarlton Powerscourt
best woodland hikes and runs and provide maps and electronic keys to the hidden, gated parts of the estate. They can also arrange horseback riding through the countryside, golf on either of Powerscourt’s two 18-hole courses, or fly fishing for sea-run trout on the River Dargle. Dublin is only a half hour away, making it possible to combine the rustic pleasures of the Irish countryside with the urban rush of the Irish capital. It’s worth making a pilgrimage to the august neo-Gothic grounds of Trinity College to see the Book of Kells displayed in the library. Created in the 9th century, this stunning volume of the Gospels is one of the earliest surviving illuminated manuscripts and an Irish national treasure. The Irish also treasure the outsized personalities of their artists. At the National Gallery of Ireland, one section is dedicated to the Yeats clan: portraitist John Butler Yeats and his sons, poet and sometimes painter William Butler Yeats and modern Expressionist master Jack Yeats. The gallery backs onto Merrion Square, one of Dublin’s finest Georgian squares, where rows of elegant townhouses are distinguished by differently colored doors and hand-burnished brass fixtures. Oscar Wilde lived at 1 Merrion Square from 1855 to 1876, and should you wonder where he
intensely on Irish products, the restaurant provides a literal taste of the countryside in a country about the size of West Virginia. The lamb is raised less than 20 minutes away, the vegetables come from an organic farm a mile down the road. As for the mushrooms, the kitchen staff forages them in the woods and meadows of Powerscourt.
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KAPSALIANA VILLAGE
GREEK REVIVAL
A
few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slight rise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene is quiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brilliant tuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member of Historic Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from the original dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditional Cretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as if time had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
World Scene Experience life’s little luxuries
. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
COLD COMFORT
LAKE PLACID LODGE
A
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s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time for winter sports, a cozy new coat and a heart-warming cocktail. After ice skating, cross country skiing or snowshoeing at the Lake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondack mountains, guests keep out the chill with the hotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. Bartender Lori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater, shares the recipe for this snug concoction. Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz. Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of New York State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mix vodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrup in a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with cream and garnish with a mint leaf. Cheers!
GILT TRIP
MONEY MUSEUM
A
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted chocolates and a bottle of Champagne are provided), which brings you to the Money Museum. Here, caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 million dollars worth of paper money and rare coins, including the most comprehensive collection of American gold coinage in existence, is stored. Between courses, the curator of the museum joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
COUNTRY CHIC
JAYNE THOMPSON
I
n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eightroom house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel John Bowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection of English and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular with antiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) to shop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, Jayne Thompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’s Restaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients and paired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning dining room filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-century Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with English Ironstone china.
A STRETCH OF BEACH
A
DJORDJE ISHERE / CLICKHERE STUDIOS
mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish event that’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, residents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and first timers alike, can join certified instructors for “Beach Yoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate South Beach insider happening, which attracts vacationing Broadway stars and fashion editors, among others, has been meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend an hour reaching new horizons.
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profile
LUCIANO BARBERA ITALY’S AMBASSADOR OF STYLE BY WILLIAM KISSEL
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L Opposite page: Luciano Barbera This page: A men’s look from Barbera’s fall 2011 collection
uciano Barbera always wears white for tennis, prefers dress slacks on the driving range, and would never consider putting on a colorful, patterned shirt to attend a dinner party. “Can you imagine someone going to dinner in a fancy collar and checks and stripes?” he once said incredulously. “It’s not possible. It will not match with the situation.” Barbera appreciates the established rules of proper dressing, but the dapper designer’s passion also extends to the fabrics and fine craftsmanship of his clothing and the factories where they are made, which must be in Italy, of course. This last mandate has proven a bit problematic, because current Italian law allows clothing makers to put ‘Made in Italy’ on their garments even if only one simple element, such as adding buttons or sewing on a label, is done in that country. Like most true Italian designers, he is strongly opposed to regulations that intentionally deceive the consumer, and he has
style by creating hybrid products a man can wear in unexpected ways. (To wit, a tech-inspired down vest is faced in super 150s navy chalk stripe suit fabric to deliberately blur the lines between casual and dress.) Barbera’s suits, while clearly influenced by old-world English tailoring, are designed in the Milanese manner that stresses softly padded, narrow shoulders and a gently tapered waist. Yet most of his suits and sportcoats are made not in Milan but in southern Italy, by many of the same Neapolitan tailors producing clothing for other world-renowned brands. “They have a saying in Naples: ‘It’s like a second skin.’ This is exactly how a well-made suit should fit,” he says. Unlike other bespoke suit makers who emphasize the hand-make of their garments, Barbera’s clothing reflects a perfect balance between man and machine. “You can have a very strong suit made entirely by hand that is ugly because the person who made it has no style or sense of proportions. So what is the appeal?” asks Barbera. “The key is to have the ability to generate harmony in the garment but to make your suit where they are used to making the best suits.”
GIUSEPPE PINO
Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is how friends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label. been a pioneer in the efforts to change those laws. “Italian culture, quality and style should be promoted in the right way and not get jeopardized by other clothing producers outside the country. The customer has the right to know the truth,” he insists. Barbera has good reason to be proud of Italian style and production. Italy is unquestionably the producer of the finest luxury fashion in the world. Barbera’s collection, very much a product of the man himself, is no exception. Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is how friends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label. Indeed, admits the designer, “I’ve always been considered the natural ambassador of everything we produce.” This fall, what Barbera has produced is a trilogy of designs inspired by the years 1930, 1940 and 1971— three significant high periods in 20th century fashion. He hopes to entice more 30- and 40-somethings to classic
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What makes the Luciano Barbera collection so distinctive is more than just the tailoring. “I really consider the fabric the root of my clothing,” says Barbera, who started out as a textile designer. Not only are his fabrics exclusive to his designs, they are all developed in house at the Lanificio Carlo Barbera mill. Another important attribute of the Barbera line is the attention to detail he lavishes on every object. “It’s important that every single piece in the collection offers something special,” adds the designer, unable to name a favorite design from his label. “It’s like asking a man which is your favorite child; it simply can’t be done,” he says. Among Barbera’s favorite expressions: sprezzatura, the Italian word for detachment, but he says a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. “The most forceful statement is understatement,” he says. “It is the philosophy behind everything I do.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY MACO TESTA
BOB MITCHELL ON WHY EVERY GREAT WARDROBE SHOULD INCLUDE SOME GREAT SEASONAL PIECES...
S
THE RICHEST LOOKS ARE
SEASONAL
W
hile 50 percent of your wardrobe can be “year round,” 50 percent should be seasonal. Cold weather fabrics—like flannels, tweeds, corduroys, suedes and velvets—provide a depth, variety and personality to dressing that can’t be matched by less distinctive transitional fabrics. For fall 2011, we’re seeing a big comeback of the gray flannel suit, made famous by JFK in
the 1960’s. We’re also seeing a big resurgence of tweed and herringbone, for dressing up or casual. Also more popular than ever is layering... chunky sweaters, wool knit ties and a beautiful heavier sportcoat are a great way to bring a pair of jeans to life. So, pile on the cashmeres, sweaters and scarfs. Winter, come and get us!
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
SEASONAL FABRICS ARE MORE TEXTURAL & UNIQUE.
opposite ZEGNA above SUIT: SAMUELSOHN, TIE & SHIRT: HUGO BOSS
LEFT — JACKET: DESIGNER NAME, opposite BLAZER: SAMUELSOHN, SWEATER: LORO PIANA RIGHT — SWEATER: DESIGNER NAME, JACKET: DESIGNER NAME above ISAIA
PILE ON WARM, CHUNKY LAYERS FOR A SOPHISTICATED LOOK.
food
WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.
COOKING WITH THE STARS
PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR t’s a crisp fall day, perfect for a bike ride in the park or brunch with friends at an outdoor cafe. But thanks to the French Culinary Institute, I am instead joining 200 other food enthusiasts at the third annual New York Culinary Experience. The event raises money for the The Future Chefs Scholarship Fund, enabling aspiring chefs to attend culinary insti-
tutes. It’s also a unique opportunity to spend two days with the world’s most renowned chefs. For foodies, tasting a truly great dish is pure bliss. But cooking side by side with illustrious chefs like Todd English, Morimoto, Marcus Samuelsson and Jacques Torres, among many others, is ecstacy. Participants attend two classes each day. Between morning and afternoon sessions, lunch seminars
feature conversations with key experts. In the evening, wine receptions and tastings provide yet another opportunity to get up-close and personal with culinary heroes. Unlike other “fantasy food camps” I’ve attended, these classes were truly interactive. For starters, a pastry class with Gina di Palma, who insists that baking need not be an exact science: even if results vary, it will likely still be delicious!
This page, left: David Bouley with his students. Right: Pan roasted duck. Opposite page, left: Todd English slices stuffed turkey breast. Right: English tops off his pumpkin lasagna. The next New York Culinary Experience will be held on April 28th and 29th, 2012. Email nyce@nymag.com to request more information.
OPPOSITE PAGE BY SUSAN F. SIDOR; THIS PAGE BY LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES
Next, bouillabaisse with Alain Sahlac, Dean of the French Culinary Institute, a warm, gentle Frenchman who instructed us in the fine art of putting lobsters to sleep. Then we prepared pan roasted duck and asparagus with Comté cheese foam with David Bouley, a fan of healthful artisanal cooking. My final class was Thanksgivingthemed, led by superstar chef Todd English, whose demonstrations were entertaining and informative with a side order of dry humor. To break with the whole-bird tradition, we made a cornbread stuffed boneless roast turkey breast (and even took home ingredients for our own Thanksgiving feasts). After spending my entire career around fashion’s who’s who, these wonderful food masters have become my new rockstars. I remain their ever-devoted groupie.
PUMPKIN LASAGNA Recipe by Todd English Serves 2 Ingredients: 1 sugar pumpkin 7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta (substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta) 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese 1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie 1/4 cup ground almonds 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated butternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish For the Butternut Squash Sauce: (Yields 1 quart) 1 butternut squash 1 sprig rosemary, chopped salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups half and half 2 cups heavy cream 2 oz. butter 1/4 cup maple syrup
pot and add the liquids and rosemary. Slowly cook until the squash becomes soft. Drain off the liquid and reserve. Place the squash into blender. Add just enough liquid to cover, then blend and add butter. Adjust seasoning and consistency. Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoop out seeds and any membrane. Clean seeds and toast separately. Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40 minutes, or until inside meat is cooked. Turn oven down to 350°F. Toss pasta in butternut squash sauce. Lay one sheet of pasta in the bottom of the pumpkin. Spread 1-2 tablespoons of mascarpone cheese on top, then sprinkle a layer of cookie, almond and parmesan. Continue layering until pumpkin is filled. Top with parmesan cheese and bake 30 minutes. Garnish with watercress and serve.
Directions: Peel the squash and dice into large pieces. Place the squash in sauce
profile AUGUST 2012 WILL MARK THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICA’S COOLEST DENIM. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans in the world; that’s still our mission today,” asserts Agave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused on USA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands? I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in the denim. I found the best denims from boutique mills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with production and laundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentically and accurately. Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse? I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companies ago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doing production. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
Above: Jeff and Lauren Shafer Left: Items from Agave’s men’s and women’s fall collections
A DECADE OF AGAVE We have the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011? The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo, black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excitement is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocket models, washed down to a beautiful patina.
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At Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street . San Francisco 415.291.9480
essay
CLOSET THERAPY SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUS A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm, used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is? You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I play menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate, though I’m not a doctor. Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants fill their shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, transforming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxury. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, the clothes he pulls out each morning helping to determine if people will buy into his personality, business acumen, credibility, or whatever he’s selling. I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneled closet. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenly spaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows, his belts and ties were arranged meticulously. I thought about this client, a bachelor with a high finance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair, beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters! Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect specimen, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics, and not one cashmere knit!
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I looked around his spectacular apartment with its expansive views of Central Park and envisioned the women he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceived wardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud. Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favorite store as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazz song with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensions to help showcase your own unique qualities. Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this music metaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen twoand four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in masculine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is now balanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks, V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces now double as sportswear. His love life has improved, too: wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knit cardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams. When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that when they get dressed each day, they’re energized and inspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think too much! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
at your service CLOSET CLEANING
EXPERTISE
PICTURE PERFECT
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or office to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.
Trust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfit and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.
BUTTON UP
GIFT CARDS
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS
A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.
A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that always fits! Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!
In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all of our clothing. Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our onsite team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fit.
SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP
CLOTHING DONATIONS
We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.
Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS
BY APPOINTMENT
Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.
Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future. Call our stores for more information.
It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you. You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
Passion for Life
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