GARYS Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011
INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY
REFLECTING ON FALL
WELCOME TO THE FALL 2011 ISSUE OF GARYS FORUM MAGAZINE It’s our semi-annual way of bringing you new ideas to help brighten up your wardrobe, and new information about the store, the community and the world. We’re particularly excited about this issue and we hope you’ll take the time to explore the fashion trends and tips, enlightening stories and the ads from the brands we offer. Our featured CEO this season is Don Ressler of Manhattan Beach-based Intelligent Beauty, parent company of Sensa, DermStore.com and justfab.com. He’s a GARYS customer and a very smart and well dressed guy. In addition to learning about Don, we encourage you to explore the stories on fashion, music, design, food and drink that we’ve specially written for this season’s magazine. Of course, all this is designed to remind you that there is no other store like GARYS in southern California—or just about anyplace else. We have an amazing selection of clothing and footwear matched closely with the Newport Beach lifestyle, and the best sales associates to help you find the perfect items to round out your wardrobe. On that note, we would like to take this opportunity to remember Lee Niemczyk (at left), who passed away last April. Lee was a dedicated and thoughtful manager with a true passion for the clothing business. He had over 40 years of experience working in some of the finest men’s specialty stores in Southern California, including his seven year tenure at our GARYS Studio location in Del Mar. In addition to his passion for knit ties, he believed that a customer’s satisfaction came first and foremost. Lee is remembered by all as a consummate gentleman: polite, kind, gracious and selfless to a fault. He will be missed by all of us in the GARYS family. We hope you come by and experience the warmth, style and value that are the hallmarks of GARYS, and have been for over 40 years. We look forward to seeing you. —Dick, John and Kari Braeger
Passion for Life 15MilMil15 Suit
GARYS Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949-759-1622 Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar 858-794-0740 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
FEATURES 2 8 10 20 50 54 58
Welcome Letter Power Player: Don Ressler Giving Back: Working Wardrobes GARYS Island Shop-in-Shop Music: Classical Cool Design: Haute Hospitality Icons: Guitar Hero
FASHION 26 28 30 32 34 40
Profile: OluKai Profile: A Decade of Agave Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film Profile: Edward Armah Life Is But a Dream Why Style Matters
DEPARTMENTS 12 24 48 62 64 68
At Your Service Ask Forum World Scene Spirits: Cutting-Edge Cocktails Food: Cooking With the Stars End Page: Closet Therapy
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-6864412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com
Although he’s too polite to mention it, marketing guru Don Ressler has generated a billion dollars in sales and raised $100 million in capital for various internet companies. He was founder and CEO of FitnessHeaven.com (a Forbes magazine best-of-web winner), which was acquired in 2001. He was then a top exec at Intermix, the parent company to MySpace that was sold to News Corp in ’05, giving him and his partner the means to found Intelligent Beauty. He created the skincare brand Hydroderm and co-founded several other internet companies. Here, we speak with Ressler about building brands.
Tell us a little about your current business ventures. My career has always been online marketing; my specialty is turning unique ideas into brands. In 2006 with my partner, I founded IB (Intelligent Beauty) Inc., which now has 400 employees. We’ve evolved into three distinct businesses. The first is DermStore.com, a health and beauty business featuring 600 brands, 20,000 SKUs. In fact, we’re the largest independ-
fashion accessories. Then there’s Sensa, our weight loss program. This is a very unique product that you sprinkle on your food, based on 25 years of research and testing by Dr. Alan Hirsch. By just eating normally without diet or exercise, it results in an average weight loss of 30.5 pounds. It’s a very rewarding business because we’re impacting people’s health—2.5 million people, in just three years!
What have you learned about brand building from your years in the business? Although we live in a world of social media and there are inexpensive ways to get messages out (bloggers, etc.), to get real traction in a reasonable amount of time you need to use multiple channels. It’s not like the old days where you’d put a product in a store, run a print campaign around it and you’re done. It now requires a major investment combining new media with television, print and radio (which I still like by the way…). Of course, I’ve always believed in starting out online. I’ve been saying that for the past 14 years and people originally thought I was crazy…
INTERNET ENTREPRENUER DON RESSLER WOULD RATHER WEAR A SUIT. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
ent beauty e-tailer and I’m proud of that. The second is a fastgrowing shoe and handbag business (justfab.com). Everything on the site is $39.95 (including shipping both ways). It’s changing the way women shop for
A new brand is not likely to succeed without major advertising investments in multiple channels. Among the mistakes that many companies make: 1) underestimating how much monetary investment is needed to advertise; and 2) believing that your brand can survive based on social media alone. Social media is a vital ancillary marketing strategy but not an effective long-term core business model.
IMAGES BY EVAN DORIAN
Man of Style
What mistakes do companies make when building a brand?
How can you tell if something’s a good idea before you invest? I believe in online consumer surveys. We generally use 500 to 1,000 of our most loyal customers, a cost effective way to get information and to establish relationships in real time with your customers. I’ve been wrong many times in predicting how something will resonate, so I trust the customers’ instincts much more than my own when it comes to certain things.
Describe your personal style. I’m 39 years old and for the past 10 years, I’ve pretty much worn a suit to work every day and I’ll continue
As for shirts, I’m not loyal to a single brand; it’s more about finding the right color and pattern.
How many suits do you purchase a year? I don’t know. I rotate my suits so at any given time, I have at least 60 or 70 good quality suits in my closet, both custom and off-the-rack in different fabrics, models and weights. If you ask Todd, my great salesman at GARYS, he’ll vouch for the fact that I’m definitely willing to try new things. (But if it doesn’t work out, I wear it once…) Other than suits, the wardrobe components that are important to
busy you are, create some time and find that balance in life.
Do you have mentors? Many years ago, I had the opportunity to meet Muhammad Ali. I was into boxing myself when I was young and he was a larger-thanlife figure to me at that time. I believe his brilliance was his ability to convince his opponent that he’d won before the fight even began. He had an incredible knack for identifying his opponent’s weaknesses and using that knowledge to his advantage. It’s a strategy that’s often on my mind when I look at a business today.
I TRUST THE CUSTOMERS’ INSTINCTS MUCH MORE THAN MY OWN WHEN IT COMES TO CERTAIN THINGS.”—DON RESSLER, CO-CEO, INTELLIGENT BEAUTY to do so. I just feel it’s an important aspect of my position: important in creating relationships with other CEOs and execs, important in commanding respect. There’s a certain image that I want for my company and I believe wearing a good suit helps establish that. Our dress code here is California casual but personally, I feel I need to represent the company in a professional way. I work with celebrities and CEOs all over the world and I learned a long time ago that you never know who you’re going to run into on any given day. I’d always rather be overdressed than underdressed so if I’m wearing a suit, I’m always in a good place.
me are the right watch and the right shoes. I’ve been wearing a Patek Philippe watch that I love: I bought it for myself when I was lucky enough to sell our first company. I’m assuming that down the road, one of my kids will end up with it… My favorite shoes these days are Brioni that I had custom made.
Who are your favorite clothing designers or brands?
I sleep only an average of four hours a night, then wake up early in the morning and work out at least four times a week for two hours at a time (early in the morning before I start my day). I believe there’s really only one way to stay healthy: eat less and exercise more. So no matter how
I really enjoy wearing Isaia suits: they fit me well. I also love Brioni. I used to think of Brioni as an older man’s suit but I’ve grown to really appreciate them. (I guess I’m getting older...) I love their fabrics, and their ties also work really well for me.
When you’re not working: you’re not in a suit I hope… My at-home attire is usually jeans and a T-shirt, or else sweats and workout wear. For a night on the town, I might wear a more casual suit, perhaps something by Etro.
You created a fitness business early in your career: what’s your personal fitness regimen?
My other hero is my wife Ginger: How she balances caring for our four kids and everything else she does is truly remarkable.
Describe yourself to someone who doesn’t know you. I’m hard-working, family-oriented and believe that loyalty is allimportant. My business philosophy is that greatness comes from collaboration and teamwork. What would I change about myself? I wish I had an on-off button for my brain. (But since I get my best ideas at 3:00 a.m., that might not be so good…)
You’re not yet 40; do you have plans for life’s next chapter? I’m hoping to eventually wind down a bit. I love being around kids and coaching youth sports so I’d like to do more of that, and perhaps provide a state of the art facility for kids in need. As for the immediate future: a beach in Bora Bora with my family sounds pretty wonderful. But probably without the Brioni suits…
DOES YOUR CLOSET LOOK LIKE THIS?
If so, we can help. Donate your clean, gently-used professional or business casual clothing, footwear and accessories to Working Wardrobes at any GARYS location. Working Wardrobes is a non-profit organization that serves men, women and teens who are emerging from a life crisis and are committed to re-entering the workforce. They also specialize in helping our veterans in transition get back to work. We accept men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, including handbags, and we ask that all clothes are dropped off on hangers. To learn more or to coordinate a donation, please contact Steve Loucks at GARYS (949.759.1622 / firstname.lastname@example.org). He will assist you in getting your donation delivered and make sure that you receive a receipt from GARYS and Working Wardrobes confirming your tax-deductible contribution. You may also visit www.workingwardrobes.org for additional information regarding volunteer and sponsorship opportunities, special events and more. We are proud to support this worthy cause, and we hope you’ll join us in giving back to our community.
AT YOUR SERVICE PERSONAL SHOPPING At your request, one of our sales associates will pre-select garments that fit your style and notify you of their arrival in the store.
MADE-TO-MEASURE We proudly offer luxury hand-tailored garments personalized to suit your individual taste and style. Your measurements are kept on file and updated as needed, so a new garment can be specially created for you at any time. A wide variety of models and fabrications are available from the following brands: • Brioni • Canali • Ermenegildo Zegna • Isaia • Robert Talbott • Samuelsohn
Alex Perez, GARYS tailor for over 14 years
TAILORING Our on-site expert tailors will happily work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit.
WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANING In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experi-
enced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And, if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
HOME DELIVERY & SHIPPING We ship to anywhere in the United States. If you’re in town, we can hand deliver to your door for added convenience.
GIFT CARDS Our tastefully presented gift cards are available in any denomination.
GIFT WRAP We offer complimentary gift wrap in our distinctive packaging for all your purchases.
SHOP GARYS ONLINE Our world-class selection of brands is now available for purchase at garysonline.com. Just click on “Online Store.”
SIGN UP FOR E-MAIL AND LIKE US ON FACEBOOK Get the latest information on special events, in-store appearances, trunk shows and promotions.
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Kwiat earring, Rolex watch at Traditional Jewelers.
Elie Tahari . Trina Turk . Jonathan Adler . Kreiss . 7 For All Mankind . Splendid . True Religion Apple . Flemingâ€™s Steakhouse & W ine Bar . Melvita . American Rag Cie . Garys . Traditional Jewelers Fashion Island is a registered trademark of the Irvine Company. ÂŠ The Irvine Company LLC, 2011.
GARYS ISLAND SHOP-IN-SHOP FEATURING Reyn Spooner, Nat Nast, Tommy Bahama, Tori Richard, Kahala, Bills Khakis, Thomas Dean, True Grit, OluKai, Sperry, Maui Jim and more!
GARYS FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH 949.759.1622 www.garysonline.com
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My girlfriend has been buying me scarves but I have no idea how to wear them. Are they in style?
Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky hand knits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpine designs, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to your look. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrap your favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try the European way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around your neck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache. And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a great fashion accent, whatever the weather.
Magazines show bright color pants, yet on the streets, most guys wear jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color?
Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely a new direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contemporary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, give them a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard to wear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England for decades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket models in neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill and corduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers, there’s no need to be boring—or bored.
While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats. First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods for all accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discount site or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the “same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners and trained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputation depends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closet makeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closet and update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it all together. In addition, store owners stand behind their product, so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA
Why buy clothing in a specialty store when so much is available online?
profile “WE CREATED OLUKAI TO ADDRESS A PERSONAL NEED FOR AUTHENTIC OCEAN LIFESTYLE FOOTWEAR THAT WAS COMFORTABLE AND WELL DESIGNED.” —BILL WORTHINGTON, CO-FOUNDER
OluKai luKai constructs quality footwear for those living a quality life. The brand was conceived from a desire to create a better class of products for the life we live in and around the water. Down to the last stitch, OluKai builds products with unwavering attention to detail. OluKai offers a full range of premium footwear and sandals for men, women and children. Their footwear and sandals come in two collections: Makai, which means “Towards the Water,” are made of performance synthetics ideal for activities in and around the water. Mauka, which means “Towards the Land,” are crafted from the finest quality, high-character leathers. “We created OluKai to address a personal need for authentic ocean lifestyle footwear that was comfortable and well designed,” says Bill Worthington, co-founder of OluKai. “When it came to developing the brand, we
wanted to create something with the sophistication of a luxury brand, but with an approachability that more people can actually relate to.â€? In addition to making great footwear, OluKai is committed to respecting the people and the environments they touch. In Polynesian culture there is a strong tradition of giving an offering or tribute. OluKaiâ€™s philosophy is to support the efforts of those who continue to give back to preserve local cultures and traditions. They are committed to being environmentally responsible
manufacturers, and have pledged to actively support and work for a clean environment and a better quality of life. Mauka or Makai, OluKai has created a family of footwear that fully complements the active, ocean lifestyle. With each design and in every pair of OluKai footwear and sandals, the deep-rooted OluKai essence of premium materials, quality construction, inspired details and unparalleled comfort are constantly present.
AUGUST 2012 WILL MARK THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICA’S COOLEST DENIM. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans in the world; that’s still our mission today,” asserts Agave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused on USA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands? I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in the denim. I found the best denims from boutique mills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with production and laundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentically and accurately. Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse? I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companies ago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doing production. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
A DECADE OF AGAVE We have the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011? The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo, black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excitement is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocket models, washed down to a beautiful patina.
Above: Jeff and Lauren Shafer Left: Items from Agave’s men’s and women’s fall collections
Sean Connery in Dr. No A rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedo more often than not. Whatever the occasion, his firearm (in this case, a Smith & Wesson Centennial Airweight) is never far from sight.
Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese Falcon Detective Sam Spade: cunning sleuth, dapper dresser
Robert Redford in The Great Gatsby Ralph Lauren outfitted the entire cast for the movie adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgeraldâ€™s classic novel.
Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that you can still look put together and polished while running from the bad guys.
70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE 30
The cast of Reservoir Dogs These guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties.
The cast of The Adjustment Bureau While overcoats and fedoras are classics, the style in multiples is downright intimidating. These men mean business!
George Clooney and Brad Pitt in Ocean’s Eleven Unbuttoned elegance as the big screen’s most charismatic criminals
Richard Gere in American Gigolo Armani became a household name after outfitting gigolo Julian in his signature suits.
Michael Douglas in Wall Street Fat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the 1980s. The pleated pants popular then are just starting to reappear on runways, but haven’t yet made it mainstream.
SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOW
THESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLS PROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUT YOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT. 31
John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in The Blues Brothers
Jim Carrey and Jeff Daniels in Dumb and Dumber
Rowan Atkinson in Mr. Bean’s Holiday
DON’T BE SQUARE
POCKET CIRCLES (AND BOWTIES) “THE ACCESSORIES ARE THE NEW FOOLPROOF WAY MAKE THE SUIT,” TO DRESS FASHIONABLY. SAYS DESIGNER EDWARD ARMAH. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN dward Armah is not your typical fashion designer. Born in Ghana (his dad was a civil servant, his mom had a clothing business), he studied economics and political science but dropped it all for sewing school. (Needless to say, his family was not thrilled…) He spent some time in London working on Jermyn Street where he mastered the art of English sartorial dressing (“it’s all about proportion”), then came to the States and studied tailoring. Working at an exclusive department store, Armah would get more compliments on the clothes he was wearing, particularly his colorful bowties and pocket squares, than on the clothes he was selling. So with a little help from his friends, he quit his day job and launched his own business, patenting an ingeniously engineered silk bowtie that can be worn four different ways (and is uniquely shaped for a fuller bow). His bowties and pocket squares (that he first made in the basement of his house in New Jersey) were an instant hit, but Armah longed to create something different. On a whim, he once wore a lace doily in his pocket and got barraged with compliments. So he made up a few pocket “circles” and a new business was born. Today, he produces about 500 pocket circles a week, all made by artisans in NYC. Linen was hot this summer; for fall 2011, he’s using Italian silk and cashmere/wool, and fringed edges. When he’s not traveling around the country to the finest stores in America, Armah loves spending time with his wife and 18-month-old son, Manasse. He’s also very involved with organizations like Big Brothers Big Sisters, where he teaches school-age kids to follow their dreams.
A pocket circle adds instant cool and charisma to your sportcoat. (And you can’t possibly fold it wrong!)
life is but a
Fall 2011 has us dreaming about texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft ways to stay warm this fall...
Wendy McNett |
HAIR & MAKEUP:
DREAM A LITTLE DREAM OF...
STYLE MATTERS WHY
Making a good impression has never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier! Studies show that well-dressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are more attractive to the opposite sex.
Here are some simple tips on how to spruce up your look, because yes, style matters!
simple updates for all your modes...
1. Dressy Casual
BUILDING A GREAT WARDROBE IS SIMPLER THAN YOU THINK.
3. Sporty Casual
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS) CAN BE BUILT.
SPORTCOAT THE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
No single item is more effective in transforming a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and concealing all the right body parts...
Plaid Classic A great neutral plaid adds instant style to jeans and moves gracefully from office to dinner.
Color Statement A bolder plaid in rich fall colors adds excitement to solid basics and layers well with sweaters.
Unconstructed A soft, unlined jacket is an indispensible basic this season. It looks casually elegant and fits like a second skin!
Collegiate Corduroy Toasty warm and versatile, corduroy has come back with a vengeance.
Soft Cashmere Unconstructed and elegant, it works with dress pants, jeans and everything in between.
The New Slimmer Silhouette is here to stay
From a first interview to the corner office,
one properly fitting neutral suit in a transitional fabric is an essential basic for the welldressed man.
The Intellectual Add a sweater to a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.
The Young Turk A well-cut dark suit can take you everywhere... and a great wool tie is an easy way to add some personality.
The Player A fun shirt (without a tie) with an open suit jacket is a refreshing upgrade to jeans.
which SUITS you?
The Statesman Herringbone in warm fall tones plus a buttoned vest spells confidence.
The Mogul Navy pinstripe suit, blue shirt, red tie, slim cut... need we say more?
Sporting Event With Client A quilted, fitted, double-breasted jacket is as warm as it is flattering.
Weekend Outing Cold, blustery days can be faced in style with an elegant update to the classic parka.
STYLE Soccer Sidelines Throw a great scarf over a versatile pullover and be the best looking dad on the field.
Whether itâ€™s the weekend, or you just want it to feel that way.
Country Drive Go antiquing and lunching in style in a chocolate suede driving jacket, also perfect for everyday.
world scene GREEK REVIVAL
few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slight rise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene is quiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brilliant tuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member of Historic Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from the original dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditional Cretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as if time had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
LAKE PLACID LODGE
s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time for winter sports, a cozy new coat and a heart-warming cocktail. After ice skating, cross country skiing or snowshoeing at the Lake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondack mountains, guests keep out the chill with the hotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. Bartender Lori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater, shares the recipe for this snug concoction. Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz. Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of New York State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mix vodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrup in a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with cream and garnish with a mint leaf. Cheers!
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted chocolates and a bottle of Champagne are provided), which brings you to the Money Museum. Here, caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 million dollars worth of paper money and rare coins, including the most comprehensive collection of American gold coinage in existence, is stored. Between courses, the curator of the museum joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eightroom house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel John Bowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection of English and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular with antiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) to shop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, Jayne Thompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’s Restaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients and paired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning dining room filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-century Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with English Ironstone china.
mong the many trendy—and usually pricey— goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish event that’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, residents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and first timers alike, can join certified instructors for “Beach Yoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate South Beach insider happening, which attracts vacationing Broadway stars and fashion editors, among others, has been meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend an hour reaching new horizons.
DJORDJE ISHERE / CLICKHERE STUDIOS
A STRETCH OF BEACH
These four talented musicians love to share the joy of music. You may not have heard of them yet—but you will!
SIMON MULLIGAN, PIANIST
YOUNG MUSICIANS WITH STYLE BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE
When a lady with a piano moved in next door to the Mulligans in West London, Simon wandered over and started picking out tunes. The Mulligans were quite surprised since, at three years old, Simon had never taken a lesson; they had a piano prodigy on their hands. Simon went on to study at the Royal Academy of Music and was “discovered” by legendary violinist Yehudi Menuhin. He has toured with cellist Lynn Harrell and violinist Joshua Bell. Whether playing classical or jazz, Simon remarks, “It’s a thrill to work with musicians from different backgrounds and countries. Whether at the Cornelia Street Café in New York or on a huge concert stage, I love sitting down at the piano and sharing the music.” PERSONAL STYLE: “On stage, I wear a suit made for me by Sir Hardy Amies, famed Savile Row tailor to the royals, or bespoke suits from another Savile Row house, William Hunt. Off stage, the word ‘metrosexual’ was coined for me.” MUSICAL TASTE: “Tower of Power, Steely Dan, Joe Cocker, Tom Jones and Amy Winehouse.” FOOD & WINE: “I love to cook, particularly hearty dishes paired with great wine. I also pride myself on getting my young son, Jasper, to eat foods he claims to hate.” FOR FUN: “Host dinner parties, where I cook and play the piano.” VACATION SPOTS: “Corsica, or wine country in France.”
The Jacobsen brothers were lucky from a musical standpoint: their father, Edmund Jacobsen, was first violinist and associate concertmaster of the Metropolitan Opera orchestra in New York. Their mother, Ivy, was a flutist and music teacher. As kids, they fell in love with music listening to the musicians at their parents’ “sight reading” parties. Now, in addition to their solo careers, the Juilliard-trained Jacobsens are part of a string quartet, Brooklyn Rider, and a 30-piece orchestra,
COLIN JACOBSEN, VIOLINIST ERIC JACOBSEN, CELLIST
Left: Pianist Simon Mulligan loves to play anything by Beethoven. Below: Eric Jacobsen
The Knights, conducted by Eric. They are also members of Yo-Yo Ma’s prestigious Silk Road Ensemble, which promotes cross-cultural musical exchanges. PERSONAL STYLE: Colin: “With the Silk Road Ensemble, I wear a linen or silk shirt in ‘spice’ colors with dark slacks. With The Knights, it’s a suit and tie. The gentlemen of Brooklyn Rider like the vintage 1920s look. Off stage, I wear a fedora.” Eric: “On stage, I dress quite formally in custom-made Ralph Lauren suits and off-the-rack ones from Theory
At seven, Andreas began studying cello at the National Conservatory of Music in Colombia, where, for fun, he’d strum the guitar. It was another recording, by the illustrious Andrés Segovia, that ultimately drew him to the classical guitar. And when the Manhattan School of Music offered him a scholarship to study it, he moved to the U.S. Andreas is now as adept at composing as playing, and has written music for film and theater. He’s worked with guitarists Marc Ribot and Dan Zanes, Colombian singer Toto la Momposina, and will tour Europe in 2012 with Austrian violist Firmian Lermer. “I’m overjoyed when I perform,” says Andreas. “It’s a blessing doing what you love most.” PERSONAL STYLE: “For a classical concert, I wear a dark suit with a bright scarf, or tails when the performance requires it. Off stage, black is most practical in New York, but I always dress it up with a colorful scarf.” MUSICAL TASTE: “Classical; world music such as Youssou N’Dour from Senegal; the late flamenco singer Camarón de la Isla; traditional Colombian music. Also, Jimi Hendrix, The Beatles and lots of jazz.” FOOD & WINE: “French cuisine—artichokes with butter and steak tartare—or a good Argentine steak with a glass of Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region.” FOR FUN: “Improvising music with friends. Reading biographies about people I admire such as the great Italian composer Nino Rota—very inspiring! Seeing art films, walking in Central Park and playing soccer.” BEST VACATION SPOTS: “Paris, Rio de Janeiro, Colombia.”
Right: Colin Jacobsen has enjoyed playing music since he was a child. Bottom: Nilko Andreas Guarin
that fit my 6’3” frame perfectly. A young designer, Megan Garrity, has also created outfits for me to wear in concert. Off stage, I’m in jeans.” MUSICAL TASTE: Colin: “Indie folk singers, world music like Iranian kamancheh player Kayhan Kalhor and Brazilian singer/guitarist Joao Gilberto, early-20th century classical recordings, The Beatles, Radiohead.” Eric: “Classical music and a new, young singer named Christina Courtin.” FOOD & WINE: Eric: “I cook Italian dishes and always live near a good butcher shop and a fresh fish market.” Colin: “I like to eat what Eric cooks.” FOR FUN: Colin: “Hiking, playing the ukulele, playing tennis, and hanging out with my wife Maile.” Eric: “Cooking and holding sight reading parties.” VACATION SPOTS: Colin: “Italy, including the Aeolian Islands near Sicily, Hawaii and the fjords in Norway.” Eric: “Because of the constant touring, quiet vacations in places during the off-season.”
When Andreas was just a little boy, his father put on an old vinyl recording of the great cellist Mstilav Rostropovich; he was captivated by the sound.
NILKO ANDREAS GUARIN, CLASSICAL GUITARIST
IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS ARE FASHIONâ€™S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL In the 1970s fashion designers were satisfied to have their names scrawled on the back pockets of your jeans. Over the ensuing decade, they discovered a way to put their stamp on everything from fragrance, sunglasses and leather goods to furniture and bedding. Now they want you to experience their own lavish lifestyles by enveloping you in their signature luxury hotel suites and posh dining rooms.
Previous page, clockwise from top left: Bottega Veneta for the St. Regis in Rome; Dolce & Gabbana Gold restaurant in Milan; the bar at Gold Below, left: Cavalli Club, Florence Right: Ralph Lauren’s Ralph’s restaurant, Paris
The trend escalated this past year when nearly a dozen new hotels were autographed by top designers—from Giorgio Armani’s sleek, ambitious Armani Hotel Dubai and Bulgari’s bucolic Balinese retreat, to Missoni’s stylish Scottish hideaway and Christian Lacroix’s French boulangerie-turned-bed and breakfast. It’s not only the newest way to propagate their names: designers insist the evanescent hotel or dining experience acts as a kind of “live-in portfolio” of their work. Giorgio Armani features custommade furniture and decorative objects from his Armani/Casa home collection in his namesake hotels, the second of which is scheduled to open in Milan early next year. “I wanted to see how the collection would look when applied to real spaces,” says the designer, who adds that the idea gives hotel guests an opportunity to sample the furnishings in a living situation before investing in them for their own homes. Recognizable designer fabrics and furnishings also encourage guests to form an emotional connection with the hotel—and the brand. And while hotels offer the opportunity to live like Armani or Versace for days or even weeks,
restaurants can offer the same “lifestyle experience” in a matter of hours. Take Ralph Lauren, whose fashion forays range from the highbrow sartorial chic of London’s Savile Row to the Rocky Mountain highs of Colorado. Inside Ralph’s, located in the designer’s Paris store, Lauren brings his idealized world to life. The chic eatery is infused with his signature BritishAmericana stamp, from the vintage leather seating and equestrian-themed artwork right down to the menu, which includes beef raised on Lauren’s own RRL Ranch. “The story of the menu is like the classic film An American in Paris,” says Lauren. “The food is genuinely American, but set in a mood that is genuinely international.” In a more flashy setting, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana imbued their Milanese restaurant Gold with a mix of exotic materials—pink and gray arabesque-patterned marble, high gloss steel, gold leather—that they consider to be architectural equiv-
alents of their clothing. While today’s designers would like you to believe they invented the haute hospitality trend, that honor actually goes to Pierre Cardin, who bought the fashionable French bistro Maxims in 1981 and has subsequently turned it into an international brand. “I suspect if you look hard enough you could find Pierre Cardin’s name on a screwdriver,” jokes American designer Todd Oldham, whose own foray into the hospitality game started in 1999 with the opening of The Hotel and its adjoining Wish restaurant in Miami, and continued this year with the christening of 20 new suites. Oldham is now in negotiations to design a hotel in Chicago. “It’s very smart of developers to find tastemakers from other [creative] areas who can enhance the hotel experience,” says Oldham, who believes fashion designers are naturally more sensitive to aesthetics, form and function than typical hotel designers. “Because we tend to focus on making you look good, we can also make you look good in a room.”
DESIGNER FABRICS AND FURNISHINGS ENCOURAGE GUESTS TO FORM AN EMOTIONAL CONNECTION WITH THE HOTEL—AND THE BRAND.
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GUITAR HERO LIKE FINE CUSTOM CLOTHING, A GUITAR BY JENS RITTER IS ONEOF-A-KIND, HANDCRAFTED, STEEPED IN TRADITION. BY BILL WEISS
arlier this year, an exhibit called Guitar Heroes: Legendary Craftsmen from Italy to New York opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Featured were the handcrafted guitars of three 20th-century Italian-American master craftsmen: John D’Angelico, James D’Aquisto and John Monteleone, who from workshops in NYC sought to carry on the traditions of centuries-old European masters. In preserving these age-old techniques, these craftsmen have inspired a new generation. Among the best, Jens Ritter is a young German luthier from the quiet village of Deidesheim, near the Rhine River in the heart of Germany’s wine country. Ritter, who produces 50 to 60 instruments a year with the help of a single skilled assistant, introduced his first bass guitars in 1995. They caused an immediate sensation based on their sheer beauty, innovative designs and remarkable sound. The exquisite lines and symmetry of his instruments are simply breathtaking; his fertile imagination has yielded designs from medieval to futuristic. Add in the warmth and beauty of exotic hardwoods and other natural materials (sometimes even precious gemstones!) or the stark high-tech sleekness of mixed synthetics, and it’s clear why Ritter’s guitars are coveted by top players (George Benson, Phil Lesh, Josh Dunham) around the world. We recently caught up with Ritter, who was in New York City to to see the Guitar Heroes exhibit at the Met and for this exclusive interview with Forum magazine.
Known as the German Stradivari, Jens Ritter pushes the limits of his craft.
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I’M VERY GRATIFIED THAT MY DESIGNS ARE PERCEIVED AS ART AT THE SAME TIME THEY’RE PLAYED ON STAGES ALL OVER THE WORLD.”
Above: A colorful example of Ritter’s more outrageous side Below: Mary J. Blige is one of many celebrity clients.
How did you get started?
Are your instruments art?
I played bass in a band as a teenager and was never happy with the instruments. I didn’t have the money to buy an expensive bass guitar so I tried to modify parts of my instrument to make it better, like changing the electronics and eventually cutting and sawing the body to change the shape and weight and maybe improve the ergonomics. Eventually I was able to buy some high quality wood and spent lots of time designing and building my own bass. It helped that my grandfather was a woodworker who taught me how to handle wood and treat wood surfaces.
Once considered a functional tool, the guitar is now a huge cultural symbol, a valued entity in itself. Years back, the guitar heroes were the musicians who played the instruments, not the craftsmen who designed and built them. Think of Jimi Hendrix: He’d pour lighter fluid on his guitar and burn it on stage, like he did in 1967 at the famous Monterey Pop Festival. Today those guitars are famous on their own; even burned ones have sold for hundreds of thousands of
What makes your instruments so special? They’re super custom-made but within aesthetic limits, kind of like a custom suit. I’m not known for following traditional rules and I love to pursue new designs, try new woods, experiment with new surfaces. Sometimes I’ll try developing a new instrument for myself or to demonstrate at a trade show, and the response might lead to new ideas.
dollars, just so someone can hang them on their wall as a holy relic. What was once a simple tool of the musician has evolved into functional art, achieving its own identity as a cultural symbol. I’m very gratified that my designs are perceived as art at the same time they’re played on stages all over the world. On occasion, I’ve sold instruments to art collectors and museums for display only.
What are you working on these days? I’m mostly filling orders from the trade shows in L.A. and Frankfurt, but I’m also developing a new guitar model scheduled for release in January 2012, and creating a new signature six-string bass guitar for The Grateful Dead’s Phil Lesh.
What’s the best part of your work? To be immersed in inter-
national culture is an incredible blessing. To possibly influence it—now that’s intense!
THIS REVOLUTION IS ALSO AN EVOLUTION, FOR ‘ROUND THE CORNER, ANOTHER INTREPID BARTENDER IS CRAFTING THE NEXT BIG DRINK.
FASTER THAN YOU CAN ORDER A MANHATTAN, ANOTHER COCKTAIL TREND AWAITS YOU. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON e live in an exciting time when it comes to drinks. The so-called Cocktail Revolution, invoking premium spirits, fresh ingredients and careful measures, has evolved beyond trendy neo-
speakeasies to rooftop lounges and nightclubs. But this revolution is also an evolution, for ‘round the corner, another intrepid bartender is crafting the next big drink.
Organic Ingredients: Five years ago, only a handful of organic spirits existed. Today there are organic tequilas, vodkas, single malts, bit-
ters, even sake. “To get USDA certification is very hard,” says Henry Siedel of Chikurin, the only Japanese sake to hold that distinction. Not only does the rice need to be grown sans pesticides, but irrigation floodwaters from neighboring farms have to be gunk-free as well. In most cases, you’re doing more to protect the environment
This may seem like an ordinary gin and tonic, but it features ofthe-moment bar trends like hand-cracked Kold Draft ice, fresh small-bottle tonic, and trendy Copa glassware.
than your own body. But still, who needs Monsanto in their Mojito? Says Paul Abercrombie, author of Organic, Shaken and Stirred (Harvard Common Press, 2009): “People [should] care about what’s in their glass, the same way they care about what’s on their plate.”
Farm-to-Bar: As in the restaurant world, bartenders are hot on local, farm-fresh ingredients. “Guests love a drink with a homegrown angle,” says Evan Powell, the mixologist for Fish restaurant in Charleston, SC. “I grow about a dozen herbs, including chocolate mint, lemon thyme and shiso.” At Idaho’s Shore Lodge in McCall, the staff picks wild huckleberries for mixologist John Wood’s huckleberry mojito. Meanwhile, in San Francisco, the Fairmont is raising its own honeybees and using the fresh honey in cocktails. And Murf Reeves at New Orleans’ Sylvain puts his 15 years as a cook
IMAGES BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
Both complex punch bowls and obscure European digestifs take center stage in cocktails at many of the trendiest bars around the country.
Aged Cocktails: The hottest geek trend of 2011: mixing up batches of classic cocktails, dropping them into used whiskey barrels or other containers, and aging for several weeks. Jeffrey Morgenthaler, bar manager at Portland’s Clyde Common, is widely credited for kicking off the trend in the U.S. Aging a cocktail does the same thing as aging whiskey or tequila: “The edges are softened, but not in a way that makes the drink seem flabby,” says Morgenthaler. “Anything with vermouth or fortified wine will be lightly oxidized and gain earthy notes that lend a lot of depth.” A second- or third-use barrel, like a bourbon or sherry cask, will also influence the final drink. You’ll find aged cocktails in toptier bars around the country, including the Boxcar Bar (Austin),
Girl & The Goat (Chicago), Grant Hotel (San Diego, where guests can purchase aged cocktails by the bottle), and Summit Bar (Manhattan). London’s Artesian bar, meanwhile, is mashing two hot trends by offering barrel-aged Mai Tais featuring clarified lime juice. Act quickly if you hear of a new barrel being tapped at your favorite watering hole: Innovative batches can be drained in a single night by thirsty fans.
to good use behind the bar, emphasizing regional food pairings with mixed drinks.
House-Made Mixers: “Bitters is one of the three major components of classic cocktails,” says James Lee of Boulder, CO’s Bitter Bar. The once-ubiquitous astringent infusions are now used mostly to enhance aromas in cocktails. “You can’t really substitute for Angostura or Peychaud’s where they’re called for, but otherwise, the sky’s the limit.” Lee and his team make their own bitters using ingredients like Japanese fivespice, grapefruit and (in season) Rainier cherry bitters. At the new Lexington Social House in L.A., you’ll find house-made yuzu, lavender and orange bitters, along with Thai chili-infused simple syrup and even their own version of Pop Rocks to rim glasses. For the new Theater Bar in New York City, owner/bartender Albert Trummer takes the house-made concept to new heights. The bar makes all its own liqueurs, tinctures, bitters and more, co-created with a doctor versed in homeopathic medicine. “Cordials that have artificial colorings and sweeteners sit on your liver, along with the alcohol,” says Theater bartender Duane Fernandez. “At the end of the day, even with cocktails, you want the most natural product you can have in your body.” What’s coming up next? We’re already witnessing single filtered vodkas that actually have flavor, craft distilleries in almost every state, and 18th-century punch bowls that seduce scenesters and drinkers alike. Drop in to your favorite bar to discover what your own Mad Mixologist is concocting.
WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.
COOKING WITH THE STARS
PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR t’s a crisp fall day, perfect for a bike ride in the park or brunch with friends at an outdoor cafe. But thanks to the French Culinary Institute, I am instead joining 200 other food enthusiasts at the third annual New York Culinary Experience. The event raises money for the The Future Chefs Scholarship Fund, enabling aspiring chefs to attend culinary institutes. It’s also a unique opportu-
nity to spend two days with the world’s most renowned chefs. For foodies, tasting a truly great dish is pure bliss. But cooking side by side with illustrious chefs like Todd English, Morimoto, Marcus Samuelsson and Jacques Torres, among many others, is ecstacy. Participants attend two classes each day. Between morning and afternoon sessions, lunch seminars feature conversations with
key experts. In the evening, wine receptions and tastings provide yet another opportunity to get up-close and personal with culinary heroes. Unlike other “fantasy food camps” I’ve attended, these classes were truly interactive. For starters, a pastry class with Gina di Palma, who insists that baking need not be an exact science: even if results vary, it will likely still be
Previous page, left: David Bouley with his students Right: Pan roasted duck This page, left: Todd English slices stuffed turkey breast. Right: English tops off his pumpkin lasagna. The next New York Culinary Experience will be held on April 28th and 29th, 2012. Email email@example.com to request more information.
Ingredients: 1 sugar pumpkin 7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta (substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta) 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese 1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie 1/4 cup ground almonds 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated butternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish For the Butternut Squash Sauce: (Yields 1 quart) 1 butternut squash 1 sprig rosemary, chopped salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups half and half 2 cups heavy cream 2 oz. butter 1/4 cup maple syrup Directions: Peel the squash and dice into large
pieces. Place the squash in sauce pot and add the liquids and rosemary. Slowly cook until the squash becomes soft. Drain off the liquid and reserve. Place the squash into blender. Add just enough liquid to cover, then blend and add butter. Adjust seasoning and consistency. Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoop out seeds and any membrane. Clean seeds and toast separately. Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40 minutes, or until inside meat is cooked. Turn oven down to 350°F. Toss pasta in butternut squash sauce. Lay one sheet of pasta in the bottom of the pumpkin. Spread 1-2 tablespoons of mascarpone cheese on top, then sprinkle a layer of cookie, almond and parmesan. Continue layering until pumpkin is filled. Top with parmesan cheese and bake 30 minutes. Garnish with watercress and serve.
delicious! Next, bouillabaisse with Alain Sahlac, Dean of the French Culinary Institute, a warm, gentle Frenchman who instructed us in the fine art of putting lobsters to sleep. Then we prepared pan roasted duck and asparagus with Comté cheese foam with David Bouley, a fan of healthful artisanal cooking. My final class was Thanksgivingthemed, led by superstar chef Todd English, whose demonstrations were entertaining and informative with a side order of dry humor. To break with the whole-bird tradition, we made a cornbread stuffed boneless roast turkey breast (and even took home ingredients for our own Thanksgiving feasts). After spending my entire career around fashion’s who’s who, these wonderful food masters have become my new rockstars. I remain their ever-devoted groupie.
PREVIOUS PAGE BY SUSAN F. SIDOR; THIS PAGE BY LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES
PUMPKIN LASAGNA Recipe by Todd English
FALL 2011 Seasonal Pants, Shirts, Outerwear, Belts & More, in store now!
SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUS
CLOSET THERAPY A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm, used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is? You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I play menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate, though I’m not a doctor. Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants fill their shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, transforming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxury. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, the clothes he pulls out each morning helping to determine if people will buy into his personality, business acumen, credibility, or whatever he’s selling. I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneled closet. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenly spaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows, his belts and ties were arranged meticulously. I thought about this client, a bachelor with a high finance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair, beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters! Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect specimen, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics, and not one cashmere knit!
I looked around his spectacular apartment with its expansive views of Central Park and envisioned the women he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceived wardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud. Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favorite store as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazz song with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensions to help showcase your own unique qualities. Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this music metaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen twoand four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in masculine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is now balanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks, V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces now double as sportswear. His love life has improved, too: wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knit cardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams. When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that when they get dressed each day, they’re energized and inspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think too much! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
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Published on Aug 18, 2011
REFLECTING ON FALL INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011 It’s our semi-annual way of brin...