BusinessMirror
three-time rotary club of manila journalism awardee 2006, 2010, 2012
U.N. Media Award 2008
www.businessmirror.com.ph
We place our life
FB INSPIRATIONS, MILO CALANGISAN AND LOUIE M. LACSON Word&Life Publications • teacherlouie1965@yahoo.com
Editor: Gerard S. Ramos • lifestylebusinessmirror@gmail.com
Life
T
GIORGIO ARMANI, FILM DIRECTOR? THE FASHION ICON DISCUSSES HIS CINEMATIC SIDE »D2
BusinessMirror
Monday, October 26, 2015
D1
Lesley Mobo’s stardust memories TOTA PULCHRA MISS CHARLIZE
B
EFORE entering the Rizal Ballroom of the Shangri-La Makati for the Red Charity Gala, some couture-clad socialites were shocked to find men, in a Last Supper tableau, covered only in Bench underwear. It was then that they knew what they were about to witness will be a trippy, heady, hypnotic stage spectacle. The gala is the eighth annual show organized by society stalwart Tessa Prieto-Valdes and philanthropist Kaye Tinga to raise funds for the Philippine Red Cross and the Assumption High School Batch 1981
Foundation. The show started with a parade of male models scantily clad in underwear by Bench, the presenter. Before the beefy hunks could establish their poses onstage—all rippling muscles and near-naked glory—reelectionist Sen. Dick Gordon stood up, and hopped to the next table where the dazzling Dawn Zulueta was seated. This year’s edition featured Aklan-raised, Londonbased designer Lesley Mobo. He finished with a First Class BA Honours Degree in Fashion at Central Saint Martins, with his graduate collection, called “Maniac,” using luxurious tailoring fabrics from Lanifico Fratelli Cerruti Italy. That early recognition of his remarkable creative skills continued with collaborations with Harrod’s, Diesel, Absolut Vodka, Uniqlo and Bench, as well as productive encounters with John Galliano, L’Wren Scott, Raf Simons, Renzo Rosso and the Ayalas. Mobo studied under the wing of British professor of fashion design Louise Janet Wilson, whose former students include Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, Sophia Kokosalaki, Marios Schwab and Christopher Kane at CSM. Even with all these credentials, Mobo remains
modest, almost refreshingly sheepish. “The show was for a cause, so we just wanted the collection to be fun, very party. I didn’t want it to be too intellectual. I wanted it to be inclusive, because people are actually donating and paying to watch it. I wanted to make it easy for people who are not fashionista, or not into fashion,” the acclaimed designer explained backstage after the show. Any discerning fashion observer will know that pieces that look deceptively simple are the most painstaking to create. Mobo, an expert technician, used traditional techniques on some of the knitted ensembles, and embellished more with paillettes overlay, faux leather, bugle beads, real fur trims and marabou feathers. “The truth about it is that every piece uses techniques that I’ve used before. You can see the paillettes in the pantaloons; they are really welltailored. Also the jackets, and you can wear them separately with denim or anything. I think you can see all the elements that I’ve used before—the paillettes, the sequins, the beadings, the drapings. I guess it’s more like playing with surface texture,” said Mobo, 32, breaking the collection down.
“If you look at [the clothes] from a distance, if you don’t know fashion very well, pwede maging costume,” Mobo said. “[But, for example], with the Tudors as a starting point, we just took the reference very slightly, such as the color—crimson—and the tulles. There are the silhouettes of the Tudors and stuff like that, but the [collection] was more ’70s and Dynasty and Studio 54.” It must have been nostalgic for the socialite crowd who came of age during the hedonism of the ’70s and the debauchery of ’80s Excess. Valdes was dressed as Alexis Carrington (Joan Collins) and Tinga as Krystle Carrington (Linda Evans). The vibe was urban funk, punk rock, disco wear, psychedelic/hippie. The mindaltering, time-traveling, intoxicating show was directed by the singular Ariel Lozada and deftly styled by Noel Manapat. This year the fantastic hair and makeup were by Henry Calayag and his team. The runway looks can be translated more expressively at rock shows. David Bowie’s outlandish alter ego, Ziggy Stardust, would have flipped out. Indeed, the models’ faces, especially finale girl Jasmine Maierhofer’s, painted by the exceptional
C D
LESLEY MOBO flanked by (from left) Kaye Tinga, Ben Chan and Tessa PrietoValdes. PHOTOS BY ALEX VAN HAGEN
life
d1
north korea Perspective BusinessMirror
E4 Monday, October 26, 2015
www.businessmirror.com.ph
DAWN breaks over Pyongyang, North Korea, as buildings poke through the mist. The Juche Tower (left) stands by the Taedong riverbank on October 13. AP/WONG MAYE-E
An obsessive bunch penetrates North Korea’s totalitarian fog
L
B T S | The Associated Press
ONGMONT, Colorado—In an anonymous office building in the shadow of the Rocky Mountains, in a part of Colorado where cattle ranches fade into strip malls, a gravel-voiced man with a Brooklyn accent is moving through the streets of Pyongyang. Joe Bermudez is staring into a computer screen at a detailed satellite image, maneuvering his cursor past guarded checkpoints and into restricted neighborhoods where the North Korean elite live behind high concrete walls. Looking down on the city from more than 250 miles up, he lingers over what he believes is the private airport of Kim Jong Un, North Korea’s young leader, pointing out a pair of VIP helicopters and a Soviet-era biplane. He moves north, jumping across the countryside and picking out hidden tunnels, walled compounds and a small flotilla of military hovercraft designed to storm South Korea’s beaches. “Driving around,” he calls it when he follows roads in search of something new, humming absentmindedly as his eyes flick across the screen. Bermudez is a watcher, one of the largely anonymous tribe of researchers who study North Korea, one of the world’s most isolated nations. There’s Michael Madden, a largely self-taught analyst with an encyclopedic knowledge of the government elite, and Curtis Melvin, whose research ranges from monetary policy to electricity grids and who shambles through the buttoned-down Washington think tank where he works in jeans
and a frayed T-shirt. There’s Adam Cathcart at Britain’s University of Leeds and Cheong Seong-Chang at the Sejong Institute outside Seoul. There’s the longtime US intelligence officer, a man quietly revered by many in these circles, who now writes Pyongyang crime novels under the pseudonym James Church. They are university professors, think-tank analysts and writers for a string of North Korea-centric websites. They are collaborators and competitors. They are the Kremlinologists of Pyongyang. And they insist North Korea is nowhere near as mysterious as you think it is. At least not always. “North Korea is a very secretive place. But it’s not as secretive as many people believe,” says Andrei Lankov, a Russian-born professor at Kookmin University in Seoul. “It’s much, much easier now to get information.” The chaos that swept North Korea during a mid-1990s famine dramatically changed how information flows in and out of the country, while policy changes have eased restrictions on visitors. Still, North Korea remains like nowhere else. It is a repressive and deeply isolated nation where the Internet is limited to a tiny elite and most outsiders are under nearconstant government surveillance.
It has been ruled by one family for more than six decades, with the founder worshipped as a near-deity. It has no political opposition, no free press and no freedom of movement. It has an archipelago of political prison camps that rights groups estimate hold at least 80,000 people. Major news—like the collapse last year of a 23-story Pyongyang apartment building—can go officially unreported for days, if ever. The inner workings of the country’s top leadership, meanwhile, are so opaque that some watchers remain unsure if Kim Jong Un is truly in charge of the country. He may, they say, be only a figurehead, with real power resting with a cabal of powerful bureaucrats. Secrecy is deeply rooted. “When the enemies peek into our republic, they see only a fog,” Kim Jong Il, the father of Kim Jong Un and the country’s ruler until his death in 2011, once said. And yet North Korea is not an impenetrable bubble, say the watchers, who have spent years refining methods of peering inside. They do it by poring over strings of digitized satellite images, and by talking to North Korean refugees who have fled to China and South Korea. They parse North Korean news reports for what is, and is not, reported. They talk to diplomats, business people and, when they can, to North Koreans. They read obscure Chinese journals for political clues and gauge economic changes by measuring how much North Korean light can be seen from space. They forge relationships with secretive government agencies that track North Korea. The watchers search everywhere for clues: What does it mean that Kim Jong Un has put on weight? How significant is it that he used the word “people” 90 times in a recent major speech, but didn’t say “nuclear” once? Do a handful of phrases in government statements, innocuous to anyone but a watcher, reflect a late 1990s power struggle?
Sometimes researchers are lucky—like the propaganda poster, photographed by a tourist in 2009, that signaled the rise of Kim Jong Un. But most of their work must be slowly knitted together, a series of threads that eventually reveal something larger. Take satellite imagery. At first, Bermudez says, satellites seem to offer seductively easy answers: How many political prisoners are being held? Is Pyongyang close to developing a nuclear-capable longrange missile? Are more exports flowing to China? Finding answers, though, requires diving deeply into the image. The analysis begins with sophisticated software that reveals hundreds of shades of light, including some infrared wavelengths, and a vast range of colors. Analysts merge separate images to make them clearer and use software to lessen distortion. That analysis is then woven together with other information: historical data, other imagery, research reports. It’s easy to be fooled. To demonstrate this, Bermudez pulls up an image of a complex outside the North Korean city of Chongjin. Look at it from directly overhead, and it’s just a cluster of buildings with some agricultural fields off to one side. But look from an angle—“off-nadir” in the analyst’s lexicon—and things jump into view, and that cluster of buildings becomes the political prison known as Camp 25. “If I was looking straight down, I wouldn’t see the barbed wire. I would have trouble seeing the shadow of the guard tower,” says Bermudez, chief analytics officer at the AllSource Analysis, a commercial intelligence firm based in Longmont. From an angle: “All of a sudden it becomes more real.” For decades, it was hard to see anything in North Korea. Until the 1990s, few foreigners traveled there, and few North Koreans traveled abroad. The country was trapped in a Stalinist time
warp, with control of information so absolute that many North Koreans knew nothing beyond government propaganda. In some years, fewer than a dozen North Koreans managed to flee the country. That began changing when the end of Soviet aid and then a series of floods caused a 1990s famine that outside researchers believe killed hundreds of thousands of people. Government control broke down for a time as Pyongyang struggled to keep the country functioning. Tens of thousands of North Koreans fled their homeland, and foreign aid and aid workers began to flow in. While the government soon reasserted its control, things had changed immensely. Thousands of tourists now visit North Korea every year. Foreign businesses, from Chinese mining companies to French clothing manufacturers, make deals with North Korean partners. About 27,000 North Korean refugees now live in South Korea and thousands of North Koreans legally travel abroad every year, most often to China. North Korea’s own official data, long derided as a meaningless fog, is—at least occasionally—now helpful to researchers. The ranks of the watchers grew with the spread of information, including drawing in people who might have been dismissed a few years earlier. They are not university professors, retired spies or former diplomats. They are people like Michael Madden. Madden is a friendly, foulmouthed former academic with a Star Wars tattoo on his forearm (of the mysterious bounty hunter Boba Fett) and an exhaustive knowledge of North Korea’s leadership. A decade ago, the 33-year-old stumbled into North Korea research and found himself addicted. Discussions with him range across Korean history, sentences spilling over one another as he jumps across ministries and departments. He watches officials
through their appearances in state media, by talking with visitors to North Korea, and through a string of contacts around the world. He can reel off the biographies of dozens of officials from memory. He is a master of North Korean minutiae—“I do inside-baseball. I’m proud to do inside-baseball”— whose obsessive tracking of the country’s leadership soon earned him respect. His conclusion, after watching the country’s new leader for four years now, and seeing so many top officials drop from view? “Kim Jong Un is in the process of basically eliminating all alternate power centers,” he says, speaking outside a coffee shop in Cambridge, Massachusetts. “That’s what we’re seeing.” Curtis Melvin is another of the new generation of watchers, a one-time graduate student who left school to study North Korea full time. He remembers when, just a few years ago, he could read nearly everything written about North Korea. “Now I’m just bombarded with stuff,” says Melvin, a researcher at the US-Korea Institute at Johns Hopkins University’s School of Advanced International Studies, and a writer for 38north.org, the institute’s influential North Koreaoriented website. “It’s already not so much fun.” Melvin has spent years studying North Korea’s economy and infrastructure. His databases include everything from the precise location of small-town stores to the electricity grid in industrial cities. They are massive projects, with tens of thousands of locations tagged in satellite images. It is North Korean pointillism, with Melvin using small details to create an amazingly comprehensive picture. “I go over the entire country methodically, by myself,” he says. And when he finishes—when he’s examined the entire country— fresh satellite images are available and it’s time to start all over again. “It never ends.”
perspective
e4
Economic Planning Secretary Arsenio M. Balisacan told the BusinessMirror the rains brought by Lando in many places in Luzon filled many of the dams that supplied water, including those needed for irrigation. This is a key part of the road map since the Neda recommended the importation of an additional 1 million metric tons of rice in the first semester of 2016 due to the ill effects of El Niño on rice farms. “Baka may mga areas na nabawasan ’yung probability ’yung pag-drought baka [in some areas it’s] not as bad as initially expected, [so] we are revising our road map for [El Niño] mitigation,” Balisacan said. “We [first] have to do a more intensive examination
P25.00 nationwide | 6 sections 36 pages | 7 days a week
media partner
special report
he fourth round of negotiations for a free-trade agreement (FTA) between the Philippines and the European Free Trade Association (Efta) will be held from November 24 to 27 in Geneva, according to an official of the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI). Trade Assistant Secretary Ceferino S. Rodolfo said the Philippines is seeking to expand market access in the
PESO exchange rates n US 46.5280
MRT BUYOUT: DEAL OR NO DEAL?
Balisacan told the BusinessMirror the rains brought by Typhoon Lando in many places in Luzon filled many of the dams that supplied water, including those needed for irrigation.
or assessment.” Balisacan said there is also a need to assess the impact of the rains on farms in Central Luzon, the country’s rice bowl. He said there is a See “Lando,” A12
Efta, PHL to hold fourth round of negotiations
T BusinessMirror
By Cai U. Ordinario & Mary Grace Padin
he National Economic and Development Authority (Neda) will review the El Niño road map it recently submitted to the President in light of the devastation caused by Typhoon Lando (international code name Koppu).
lesley mobo D
Thursday 2014 Vol. No. 40 Monday,18, October 26,102015 Vol. 11 No. 18
nn
Lando forces govt to review 2016 rice import, El Niño plan
INSIDE
EAR God, in Your strong, loving hands, we place our life today and every day. Choosing to know, love and serve You and to depend on You to light and guide our way and life to reach Your kingdom. You have promised to us saying, “I shall never leave you nor forsake you.” Amen.
A broader look at today’s business
Efta’s services and agriculture sectors. “We would like to gain market access for agricultural products and market access for services, particularly for skilled workers and professionals,” Rodolfo said in an interview last week. Rodolfo added that there is a big opportunity for Filipino workers in the Efta, which consists of Switzerland,
By Lorenz S. Marasigan
T
First of three parts
he key to effectively ferry vast numbers of people from one place to another is through mass-transit systems, such as railways. In Asia, the Philippines is proud to have been the first country to have developed such a light-rail transit system in the early 1980s. Its neighbors soon followed its footsteps, and started their own journey into building massive train lines to improve mobility and lessen traffic congestion. But more than three decades into the inauguration of the first overhead train system in the continent, the Philippines now lags behind its Asian peers with only four working train systems—a heavy rail, two light rails and a commuter line. Experts and business leaders agree that the government failed to keep up with the times. Underspending, underinvestment and under-the-table deals were tagged as culprits behind the deterioration of the rail sector in the Philippines. Jose Regin F. Regidor, a transportation expert, lamented the “lousy service” provided by local railways systems. “The overall state of railways in the Philippines is
poor, since we have rail only in Luzon and much of it is in Metro Manila. The Philippine National Railways is still in a sorry state despite efforts within the agency and, so far, it has gotten only little support from the national government, especially from the transport department,” Regidor said. Regidor, a research fellow at the University of the Philippines-Diliman National Center for Transportation Studies, noted that there have been proposals in Cebu and Davao for urban rail lines, and then there were the proposals to revive Panay Railways and construct Mindanao Railways. “But, these all have not progressed since the last administration and has gotten little support from the present,” he said.
‘Worst in Asean’
Businessmen echoed the pundit’s observation, frowning at how the government had failed to improve the train systems despite having the money and time to do so. “Philippine rail system has been left behind by the rest of Asia despite us, historically, having pioneered the light-rail transit in the region. While our neighbors followed our lead, they continued with Continued on A2
Continued on A12
n japan 0.3855 n UK 71.6392 n HK 6.0036 n CHINA 7.3187 n singapore 33.3821 n australia 33.5555 n EU 51.7066 n SAUDI arabia 12.4111
Source: BSP (23 October 2015)