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ISSUE 02 | November 2020

FREE

FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD EATING WELL WITH CHEF JULZ

+ PEOPLE | TRENDS | CULTURE | WELLNESS | SPORT



Welkam!

Welcome to the second issue of Papua New Guinea’s brand new lifestyle magazine, PNG Now. Our goal is to provide you with lively and topical articles on PNG’s people, trends, and culture, as well as wellness, sport, things to do and much more. These articles have a unique PNG flavour and feature exceptional storytelling from PNG’s best writers and photographers. You can meet some of these talented individuals on Page 6. PNG Now is free and has extensive distribution in cafes, hotels and other social hubs. Contact us by email or on social media to learn your nearest distribution point. With Christmas just around the corner, we asked some of our readers what they’re looking forward to most (see Page 10). Not surprisingly, spending time with family is the one thing they all agreed on. After such an extraordinary year, we wish you a safe and peaceful festive season with your family. PNG Now looks forward to bringing you more of the best of PNG in 2021.

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CONTENTS UP FRONT

Meet a few of the crew 06 Breakfast with De’Bono Paraka, athlete and vegan 08 What does Christmas mean to you? 10 What’s happening around town? 12

TRENDS ’N THINGS What’s trending, from kaftans to handmade jewellery 34

ESCAPE

All aboard for a day on the sea 38

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FOOD

A slurp of Vietnam, recipe 43 Lae’s newest restaurant, review 44 Intermittent fasting, diet 45

WELLNESS

Yoga in the city 46

THE ARTS

10 things you must see at the museum 48 The music of Sorong Samarai 50

THE INFLUENCERS 18

Social media’s biggest stars in PNG

ACHIEVEMENT

Justin Olam and that big win 58

REAL ESTATE

Tips for first home buyers 60

YOUR MONEY

The revival of the barter system in PNG 61

CV

At work with ship’s captain Jason Feda 62

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CITY GUIDE

Our favourite POM burger revealed, plus more great things in town

FOCUS

Port Moresby from the air


SIZZLIN’ HOT 40

PNG Now is a free magazine produced by Business Advantage International Pty Ltd in association with

Celebrity chef Julian Henao

Distributed by Pascoe Promotions, Port Moresby © Copyright 2020, Business Advantage International and contributors. All rights reserved. www.pngnowmag.com Join the PNG Now conversation on Facebook facebook.com/pngnowmag and Instagram @ pngnowmag. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES TO BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Charles Saldanha ads@pngnowmag.com +61 (0) 404 842 472 EDITOR Robert Upe editor@pngnowmag.com EDITORIAL ADVISORY TEAM Penny Burns, Aaron Chin, Leanne Jorari, Sylvia Pascoe

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HIP-HOP WHIZZES 54

Created by sriulan from the Noun Project

LOCKER ROOM CHAT

Rugby league player Elsie Albert

CONTRIBUTORS Dean Arek, Aaron Chin, Hal Dente, Dusk Devi, Sylvester Gawi, Leanne Jorari, Godfreeman Kaptigau, Lemach Lavari, Gabriella Munoz, Sylvia Pascoe, Carmel Pilotti, Alexandra Richards, Peter Schofield, Troy Taule, Daniel Wala, Sally Woollett COVER Papua New Guinean celebrity chef and Kina Bank ambassador, chef Julian Henao. Photograph by Sean Condon (Tribe Agency).

Meet the Wan Squad

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The Talent

MEET A FEW OF THE CREW LEMACH LAVARI

CARMEL PILOTTI

GODFREEMAN KAPTIGAU

In this issue, Lemach Lavari writes about women’s PNG rugby legend Elsie Albert. “I asked her for an interview because she represents the potential of women,” he says. Keen readers will already know Lavari as the ‘The ‘Coconut Scribe’ on his blog and on Facebook. He was also a writer for PNG’s first men’s magazine, Guys Official, as well as a newspaper business reporter. Away from the keyboard, Lavari plays for his local rugby club, The University Piggies.

Carmel Pilotti loves music, which is reflected in her piece about the ‘protest’ band Sorong Samarai. “I chose to write about the band as I am a human rights and anticorruption activist at heart, and a big fan of PNG contemporary music,” she says. In this issue, she also interviews Chef Julz and reports on events happening around town. Pilotti has been a journalist for eight years on titles such as The Post Courier, The National, Guys Official, PNG Air inflight magazine, The Bougainvillean and The Sunday Chronicle.

Until a few years ago, Godfreeman Kaptigau worked as a video editor on TV lifestyle shows. Now, he likes to indulge in his passions of photography and social media content creation. In this issue, Kaptigau has shot a variety of assignments, from the portrait of De’Bono Paraka in our breakfast interview to the juicy hamburger in our City Guide. He is ‘The Anxious Coconut’ on social media where you can see his photos and videography on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. His favourite camera? “It has to be the GoPro Hero 6 because of its versatility.”

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Conversation

BREAKFAST WITH …

DE’BONO PARAKA ATHLETE AND VEGAN BY LEANNE JORARI | PHOTOGRAPHS: GODFREEMAN KAPTIGAU

He’s a friendly giant who doesn’t mind going against the current. Meet Pacific Mini Games gold medallist turned vegan, De’Bono Paraka. We catch up at a quaint cafe, nestled in the middle of Waigani. Where are we right now? This is Hibbz Cafe. I am a big advocate for small-to-medium enterprises (SMEs). I came here once with my friends and now I just keep coming back. What do you usually eat for breakfast? Fruit salad today, but I don’t usually eat anything in the morning because I do intermittent fasting. Tell us about yourself. Food has always been a big part of what I do. It’s something that I’ve always been passionate and interested about. I have really got involved in it through the Papua New Guinea Sports Foundation. The foundation was offering some ‘life out of sports’ programs to athletes in 2018 and I took up a commercial cookery course. Now, I advocate on what food and nutrition can do for athletes as much as for anyone else who wants to feel better, look better, and be healthier. But of course, before this I was an athlete. I became interested in the throwing events (discus, shot put and hammer throw) in the 8 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

I feel so much better without meat. I am healthier, my mind is clearer, and I have more energy. lead-up to the 2015 Pacific Games in Port Moresby. Congratulations and thank you, by the way, for representing PNG. How was it that you took up competitive athletics? It wasn’t fully planned. The Pacific Games were about a year away and I wanted to represent PNG. It

was by chance that I saw an ad in a newspaper looking for people to participate in throwing events at the UPNG (University of Papua New Guinea), and I thought why not give it a go? I went to the trials the next weekend and almost broke the national record in discus and the rest is history. I just kept improving until the big dance in July 2015, when I won silver in the discus. Since then, I’ve competed at all the regional competitions for athletics; several in Fiji and Vanuatu. It was at the Pacific Mini Games in Vanuatu in 2017 where I got the gold medal in discus that I was chasing for so long. Then, I went to the 2018 Commonwealth Games on the Gold Coast. It was awesome and probably the most fun besides winning a medal. How did you get from throwing in front of a 45,000-strong crowd at the Gold Coast into the culinary field? My culinary pursuits align with what I do with my athletics and sport in general, because it all started with me seeing our athletes drinking fizzy soft drink and eating biscuits. I never really paid attention to it at first. I’m like, “yeah, whatever, it’s food”. But since getting my certification and becoming involved in the food industry it made total sense for me to be in


De’Bono Paraka has started PNG’s first pop-up vegan restaurant in addition to his nutrition company, BodyFuel.

the forefront, helping athletes understand that there are certain foods they should and shouldn’t eat, and the timing of when those foods should be eaten. I started my own nutrition business, BodyFuel, while at culinary school. So I provided my food for the athletes leading up to the 2019 (Pacific) Games. (BodyFuel is a weight loss, weight management and nutrition company. It provides catering, as well as subscription-based meal plans. Paraka has also recently introduced a first for PNG; a popup restaurant that offers a vegan experience.) You are a vegan and a huge advocate for plantbased diets. Do you feel like you’re swimming against the current in PNG where meat is everything?

Absolutely, I’m going against the current. But it’s important to know that our ancestors ate animal protein only when they had been successful in a hunt. If they weren’t successful, their staple food was garden produce like kaukau and bananas. Even to this day many people in villages survive on plant-based food and only eat meat-based protein when they can afford it. I think eating meat leads to diseases that can be avoided if you are on a plant-based diet. I feel so much better without meat. I am healthier, my mind is clearer, and I have more energy. I am speaking from my own experience. At one point, I weighed 136 kilograms. I was massive but now I’m 99 kilograms. So I lost 37 kilograms of excess weight just by taking care of what I eat.

Do you get ridiculed for your health choices? Yeah, I get a lot of “you’re not manly for not eating meat”. But I say, “you guys are going to die of a heart attack unless you take care of what you eat”. People see it as extreme, but for me, I see it as natural to stay away from excess animal protein and high-sugar food. Since I changed my diet I am more youthful. I used to look a lot older than I was. ☛ Paraka is the national record holder in discus, shot put and hammer throw. To find out more about his pop-up restaurant and his BodyFuel business see his Facebook and Instagram pages, or tel. 7821 2896. ☛ Hibbz Cafe, Independence Drive, Waigani; open Monday to Friday from 8am for breakfast, from 9am on Saturdays, and closed on Sundays. Tel. 7014 1217. NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 9


Vox Pop

WORD ON THE STREET BY LEMACH LAVARI

What does Christmas mean to you and what will you do this Christmas?

McPOLLY KOIMA creative media co-ordinator, Port Moresby

Apart from spending time with loved ones, Christmas is a great time for self-evaluation and planning for the next year. For the holidays, I will be looking for great locations in Port Moresby and the Central Province to shoot some drone footage.

KAREN ABENISA

29, research and administration assistant, Port Moresby

EZEKIEL SAPE 28, HR officer, Port Moresby

To me, Christmas is a chance to spend more time with family. It’s the time to show love, gratitude, a time for sharing and making people around you happy whilst remembering the birth of our Saviour, Jesus. So I will be travelling to Mount Hagen to be with my family for Christmas.

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For me, Christmas is a time to celebrate and reflect on the birth of Jesus with family. This year, my family and I will celebrate our first Christmas holiday at Delena in the Kairuku District of Central Province.

JARROD HULO 27, self-employed, Port Moresby

I see it as a time to rest and spend with family. But, for this Christmas, I want to do something different for a change, so I am planning to climb to the highest peak in PNG, Mount Wilhelm, in the Simbu Province.


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FYI

AROUND TOWN BY CARMEL PILOTTI

Fashion at Miss PNG shop While some of the big fashion shows have been cancelled because of COVID-19, the Miss PNG shop (owned by PNG Fashion Week) in Port Moresby has been keeping fashion glam rolling with a series of mini runways. Collections by Hausman and Royalty, in collaboration with Baiwa Designs, were paraded in one of the most recent runways, as well as a custom bridal and formal line by Lynus Beauty.

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Owner and manager of PNG Fashion Week, Philma Kelegai, says Miss PNG is a space where women can celebrate and be proud of their voice, which sits well with Miss PNG’s new ambassador, young local songstress Estapacifica. Estapacifica, aka Esther Vicky Kave, has been notable on the music scene recently with her songs Mangi West Papua and Gomohane. The Miss PNG shop is on level one at Vision City.

Yacht club to turn 100 The Royal Papua Yacht Club is celebrating its centennial year in 2021 with a series of events, including a commodore’s cocktail party, a centennial sail past and a centennial ball. The club was formed as the Port Moresby Aquatic Club in 1921 and morphed into the Papuan Yacht Club in 1957 before being granted a royal charter in 1977 with receipt of a letter from Buckingham Palace. The club has been promoting sailing and providing facilities to its members since the 1970s and keeps the spirit alive with races on the beautiful Fairfax Harbour on most weekends. There are also keelboat and Hobie Cat sailing classes for beginners, as well as WAGS sessions (Wednesday afternoon go sailing). The club supports the community with school and sporting sponsorships, and Christmas feeding and gifting programs. For membership inquiries, contact membership@rpyc.com.pg.


A taste of Christmas If you want to let someone else do the work, relax with a hotel Christmas lunch or dinner. Here are three Port Moresby hotels going to special lengths during the festive period. The Mumu restaurant at the Hilton Port Moresby is putting on a Christmas carvery lunch from December 1 to 24, and then a Christmas buffet lunch on Christmas Day. The hotel has a ‘Stay and Save’ promo with rooms at 529 kina, plus GST. The package includes breakfast for two and a 20% discount on food and beverage hilton.com, tel. 7501 8000.

The Holiday Inn has special Christmasperiod rates with room prices as low as 390 kina, plus GST. The hotel has a Christmas lunch buffet at its Kopi Haus restaurant on Christmas Day ihg.com, tel. 303 2000.

Airways Hotel has Christmas lunches and dinners planned in its restaurants, Vue, Bacchus and Deli KC. Local fare is on the menu, including roasts and seafood. Santa will be dropping in with presents for children on

Christmas Day and there’s a room package that includes breakfast and Christmas lunch airways.com.pg, tel. 324 5200.

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Around Town

Boom times for city fitness The range of fitness options in Port Moresby has boomed in recent years and includes Tru Warrior, a program that fuses cross-training and high-intensity interval training. The city’s Tru Warrior team is led by Tala Kami, who says: “The fitness culture in POM has definitely grown – there are a lot more fitness groups now, which is great.” Tru Warrior is about pushing people beyond their limits and training hard. There’s no room if you want to slouch off. “We believe there’s a mental and emotional benefit in doing more than you think you can do, so it goes beyond the physical benefit,” Kami says. Self-defence is a big part of Tru Warrior, and Kami has started hosting free training sessions for women at the Southside Fitness Centre at Koki to battle gender-based violence. Putting together skills from wrestling, Brazilian Jujitsu, Muay Thai and kick-boxing, the self-defence program has attracted women from all walks of life, from professionals to young women in school or unemployed. “The women are so much more confident (after undertaking the program) – they believe they can look after themselves if need be,” Kami says. “The techniques do matter, but it’s more about the mindset – when you’re in a dangerous situation, you’re not trying to win a fight, you’re trying to survive, and if that means running away then you do that.” Kami says Tru Warrior is not just about getting people looking good, it’s also about making them feel good and bringing about general wellbeing. Tru Warrior sessions are held at 6am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at Ela Beach, and women’s self-defence training is at 10am on Saturdays at the Southside Fitness Centre.

‘Paradise’ wins international award Paradise, the in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, has won a World Travel Award for ‘Oceania’s leading in-flight magazine’. The prestigious annual awards were handed out in early November, with other nominees in the category including the in-flight magazines for Qantas, Virgin, Jetstar, Air New Zealand, Air Tahiti, Samoa Airways and Fiji Airways. Paradise has been published by Business Advantage International (BAI) since 2014. BAI is also the publisher of this magazine. See worldtravelawards.com.

See Tru Warrior’s Facebook page for more information.

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Around Town

Dancin’ the night away Dancing all night at a party provides quite a workout, but to take it to the next level give Zumba a try. There’s some complicated footwork to the dance style and it is super energised. Mosiloku Vaia, or ‘Mossie’ as he is better known, is the name most associated with Zumba in Port Moresby. This charismatic instructor has been leading the city’s Zumba charge for the past 10 years, pioneering the fitness form since it was first introduced in the capital. Mossie holds classes at the Crown Hotel in town on Mondays and Wednesdays from 5.30pm to 6.30pm and says Zumba is a type of exercise for everyone. “You’re just dancing, so as long as you keep moving to the rhythm, you’re good,” he says. “I always say, if you get lost, there’s one dance style everyone knows and that’s freestyle. Just keep moving. It’s friendly to everyone and there’s

no demand in it if you want to stop and rest.” As the classes are always 70% Latin inspired in order to be called a Zumba class, you just know you’re going to have a party!

Staying on top of COVID-19 Papua New Guinea’s official website for COVID-19 information is covid19.info.pg. The site updates COVID-19 case numbers in PNG, provides prevention tips and has a 24/7 hot-line, 1800 200, if you need advice. Access to the hot-line is now also available via email, hotline@covid19.info. gov.pg.

Prevention tips include:

01 WASH HANDS OFTEN 02 COUGH INTO ELBOW 03 DON’T TOUCH YOUR FACE A SAFE DISTANCE FROM 04 KEEP OTHERS

05 STAY HOME IF YOU CAN

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People

THE RISE OF PNG SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS BY LEANNE JORARI | PHOTOGRAPHS: DANIEL WALA & GODFREEMAN KAPTIGAU

Lewa Kanah, the flamboyant influencer, has a following of 50,000 people across her social media platforms.

The internet has caused a dramatic shift in the world and the way people exist. Almost gone are the days when waking up in the morning meant drinking a hot cup of coffee and reading the newspaper while children’s television cartoons droned in the background. Today, more often than not, a phone has replaced the daily newspaper. The first thing people look at in the morning is their social media accounts to check up on family, message friends and see the latest news – all with a click of a button. Besides instant accessibility, the popularity of social media has seen instant opportunities. Opportunities to create, to do business, to build networks. The possibilities are endless. Enter ‘The Influencer’. You may have seen them online, you may follow one or two. Simply put, an influencer is a person or group NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 19


People

WHAT’S AN INFLUENCER? A social media influencer is a user who has established credibility in a specific industry, has access to a huge audience and can persuade others to act on their recommendations. Their audience isn’t limited to their actual followers; they can connect with the followers of their followers who share their content. As a result, they are paid for what they share. SOURCE: DIGITAL MARKETING INSTITUTE

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of people who have the power to influence many people through social media, or traditional media. It’s a phenomenon similar to a high school setting. The popular kids in school set the trends for what to wear, where to eat, what to think … and the rest follow. Influencers have been popping up online since the early 2000s, across social media platforms like Facebook, YouTube, Instagram and Twitter. Some take years to build their following, while others gain overnight followings upwards of a million people. This influencer culture is making its entrance into Papua New Guinea. One such PNG influencer is Lewa Kanah. With a following of about 50,000 across social media platforms, she needs little introduction in the PNG social media scene.


Above: Kabbage Gang’s Emmanuel Tipi and Salem Lavaki turn their cameras on some adoring fans in the city streets. Right: Lewa Kanah, striking a pose for her followers.

Collaborating with brands like U by Kotex, Trends Hair & Beauty and being a brand ambassador for Kara Jewellers, Kanah has translated her popularity into economic viability. After graduating with a degree in accounting in 2009 from James Cook University in Queensland, Australia, she started to climb the corporate ladder, but also dabbled in social media. She gained a modest social media following. “I always did it for fun,” she says. “It was never for business and just in my spare time after work.” She started recording her musings and this led to Adidas USA seeking her out to promote a product. It’s not until Kanah returned to PNG in 2013 to be closer to her family that she began gaining a significant Papua New Guinean following. With a naturally extroverted personality, it wasn’t

long before she gained prominence in Port Moresby’s social scene. This trajectory also saw her making appearances on the NBC’s national news and lifestyle program Extra, and even presenting and producing her own online program, The Lewa Show. Kanah is a brand in herself now. Aesthetics is everything for her brand, which hints to classy elegance, which explains her choice in brand partnership. “The important thing to remember is to be authentic. This is my story, unique to me and who I am. And so I tell the girls who I mentor that my story won’t work for you and vice-versa. You have to find your own story. It has to happen organically,” she says. It’s not always rainbows and butterflies, though. Being an influencer, like a lot of other careers, takes hard work and determination. Kanah highlights her need for consistency. “Everyone that knows me knows that I don’t do anything half-assed. It took time to get to that point where I am. It comes down to meticulous planning. The more active you are on social media, the more traffic you gain.” Apart from being a social media influencer, Kanah is a member of the Miss PNG committee and can be spotted at Miss PNG events, hosting in gowns and attire designed by Papua New Guinean fashion designers. It’s a collaboration she welcomes wholeheartedly. It takes a village to achieve influencer status, and being the first Papua New Guinean successfully influencing, she gives credit to God, her family and close friends, her followers in the LewaVogo community, as well as her collaboration and NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 21


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The influencer culture is making its entrance into Papua New Guinea.

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brand partners, including Kara Jewellers and her photographer, Daniel Wala. Also being noticed on the PNG social media scene is the comedy duo Kabbage Gang, Emmanuel Tipi and and Salem Lavaki, who started filming videos for their families. Today, Kabbage Gang Entertainment’s (KGE) Facebook and Instagram pages boast a whopping 50,000 followers. The duo’s famous characters, Tondopi and Africa, are a hit with Papua New Guinean audiences. Their performances often shed a light on society, making it relatable to Papua New Guineans. One of their popular videos, Never Ending Story, depicts a father telling the son, who complains about being hungry, about his upbringing in the village and how he would travel to school with a kaukau (sweet potato) in his bilum (bag). It is a story that millennials growing up in urban centres know all too well, because of their parents telling similar stories. The video ends with the son eating cheese slices from the fridge. “A lot of the ideas we have for our skits come from real life. We keep it real and relatable. These


scenarios have happened in our lives or we have seen it one way or another,” they say. Their videos, on average, attract thousands of views and reactions, inadvertently giving them a very public platform. A platform, they understand, that raises their influence. They often speak about topics such as female empowerment, education and politics. While this is received well by their followers, some don’t share similar views. “You have to have thick skin when putting yourself out there,” they say. “We had one guy message and tell us they didn’t like a certain video because it wasn’t funny. No constructive criticism, just that he doesn’t like it.” According to the duo, most of the animosity comes from people from the same province as them. “It’s just jealousy. If you don’t like something, just unfollow.” While they haven’t earned major money with their platforms yet, they have started selling KGE branded merchandise, which sells like hot cakes when announced.

HIGHEST-PAID INFLUENCER$ Take a seat before you read how much these celebrities make for just one sponsored post on Instagram. ☛ Beauty and fashion queen Kylie Jenner (pictured) earns $US1 million per sponsored Instagram post. She has 196 million followers. ☛ Soccer star Cristiano Ronaldo earns $US975,000 for each post. He has 238 million followers. ☛ Socialite Kim Kardashian-West earns $US910,000 for each post. She has 189 million followers.

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Focus

A SLICE OF PNG LIFE

PORT MORESBY FROM THE AIR PHOTOGRAPHS: AARON CHIN

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Aaron Chin’s drone soars over Port Moresby to provide a rarely seen perspective of the Papua New Guinean capital.

Most days in Port Moresby end in a kaleidoscope of colours and cloud patterns over the sea. If you’re a visitor, the best lookout spots include the Royal Papua Yacht Club, the Paga Hill Ring Road, and at the top of Touaguba Hill.

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Focus

Above: Fireworks were enjoyed by thousands of people as they lit up the evening sky beside APEC Haus on Ela Beach last Christmas. Right: Port Moresby is surrounded by remnants from World War 2, such as the Basilisk Battery at Idler’s Bay that was part of the country’s anti-aircraft coastal defence. The excavated gun pit was built in 1944 to house 5.25-inch guns. The battery was the largest of five coastal batteries protecting the capital.

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Below: Some of the most stunning sunsets in Port Moresby can be viewed from the Royal Papua Yacht Club. You’ll find a restaurant and bar there, overlooking Fairfax Harbour. Bottom: Trying their luck, this intrepid duo has paddled into Fairfax Harbour for a spot of fishing on a homemade foam raft.

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Focus

Above left: The National Football Stadium in Boroko is the home of the PNG Hunters rugby league team. The stadium seats 15,000 people and is often a sea of the team colours of red, black and gold. The Hunters play in Queensland’s Intrust Super Cup competition. Below left: Papua New Guineans at play at Ela Beach. The revitalised foreshore is a magnet for children playing basketball and volleyball, sometimes well into the night. The precinct has become a hub for social sport. Right: During the annual Hiri Moale Festival each September, traditional lagatoi sail to Ela Beach to symbolise the return of men from long trips away to trade and fish.

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Focus

Above: Vision City Mega Mall is PNG’s largest retail shopping mall and has everything from fashion wear to gadgets to restaurants – even the cinema. The towering Stanley Hotel is connected to the mall. Right: The famous Hilton brand of luxury hotels can be found around the world, including in Port Moresby. The luxury five-star hotel is in the heart of the capital and a great place to drop in for a contemporary PNG dinner at the Mumu Restaurant, or have a cocktail at the Summit Bar top floor with panoramic views of the bustling city below.

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THE PORT MORESBY GUIDE CAFE CULTURE

☛ Jeanz Cafe, great vibe and hot right now, at the new Gordons Plaza, gordonsplaza.com. ☛ Edge by the Sea, marina outlook, alfresco, at Harbour City, facebook.com/edgebythesea. ☛ Rainforest Cafe, surrounded by living tropical rainforest wall at The Stanley Hotel, thestanleypng.com.

CATCH UP

☛ Deli KC, all-day, particularly good lunches poolside at the Airways Hotel, airways.com.pg

☛ Port Moresby Yacht Club, where you can enjoy a sundowner as the yachts bob in the water. Non-members need to be signed in by a member, rpyc. com.pg. ☛ Mojo Social, a hip spot for after-work drinks any night of the week, facebook.com/ mojosocialeatdrink. ☛ Red Rock Bar, five minutes drive from Six Mile, a weekendonly bar with speccy views popular with 4WD clubs and motorbikers, facebook.com/ skilagepng.

EATING LOCAL ☛ For traditional local-style PNG cuisine try the Mumu restaurant (pictured) at the Hilton Hotel, hilton. com, and the Sanctuary Hotel and Spa where Chef Donald David is cooking up a storm with his aigir, thesanctuaryhotelpom.com.

MARKETS ☛ Craft markets are held in the city every Saturday: Laguna Hotel Craft Market (first Saturday of every month); Moresby Arts Theatre Craft Market (second Saturday); Holiday Inn Craft Market (third Saturday); Ela Beach Craft Market (last Saturday).

GET PHYSICAL

☛ The Southsi at Koki has m and fitness c com/pg/ssf

☛ Duffy (pictured), three locations in POM, excellent coffee, bakery items, duffypng.com.

☛ Heritage Bar, Monday to Saturday happy hour has free tapas and live entertainment, at Crown Hotel, crownhotel. com.pg.

☛ Ela Beach ha the volleyba courts are fr

☛ The Pyramid at Taurama access to th near POM a skate ramp, pyramidsur

☛ The Royal Po Club has 18 non-membe code) and h royalpomgo

☛ Swim laps a Aquatic and from 6am, h facebook.co Taurama-Aq Center/504

☛ Free program from yoga to available thr City Develop activecitypo

STAY HERE

☛ Airways Hotel, one of the best in the Pacific, close to airport, airways.com.pg. ☛ The Stanley, luxury accommodation adjacent to Vision City Mega Mall, thestanleypng.com. ☛ Hilton Port Moresby, 15 storeys of typical Hilton comfort, hilton.com. ☛ The Sanctuary Hotel and Spa, most spacious twin-share rooms in Port Moresby, handmade furniture, walk-in bird enclosure, thesanctuaryhotelpom.com. ☛ Grand Papua, a centrally located premium hotel with plenty of executive options, grandpapuahotel.com.pg. ☛ Holiday Inn Express, affordable, in Waigani, ihg.com.

OUR FAVOURIT

☛ The Buffalo Burger melted cheese, ghe and aioli is one of th in Port Moresby. Th Burger stores in PO store in Hunter Stre The Sanctuary Hote burger, thesanctuar

OUR FAVOURIT

☛ The new Daikoku at has a sizzling-hot te tel. 7111 0425.

DISCLAIMER The hotels, bars, cafes, restaurants and other businesses and activities listed in this guide have been selected on merit, chosen by P

32 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020


as space for joggers; all and basketball ree for public use.

OUT OF TOWN

d Board Riders’ Club has private property he only serious swell and the city’s only , facebook.com/ rf.

ort Moresby Golf holes, accepts ers (there’s a dress hires equipment, olf.com.

at Taurama d Indoor Centre https://www. om/pages/ quatic-Indoor4337133075625.

ms and activities o kickboxing are rough the Active pment Program, ortmoresby.com.

TE BURGERS

PAMPER ☛ Trends Beauty International has spas and salons across the city, trendsbeautypng. com. ☛ Divine Beauty at Holiday Inn for manicures and pedicures; they do some amazing nail art, facebook.com/ divinebeautyPNG. ☛ Top hotel day spas include Bliss the Spa at Airways Hotel and the Zen Spa at The Stanley Hotel, airways.com. pg, zenspastanley.com.

with two beef patties, erkin, caramelised onion he best-loved hamburgers here are four Buffalo OM, including the town eet, meathaus.com. pg. el also does a mean ryhotelpom.com.

TE JAPANESE

t Harbourside eppanyaki menu,

NATURE ☛ The Port Moresby Nature Park has 550 native animals and hundreds of plant species in beautiful gardens, and cafe, portmoresbynaturepark. org.

STAY & EAT

INTO THE HILLS

☛ Lae: The Lae International Hotel has two restaurants, a bar, swimming pool and gym, laeinterhotel.com.

☛ As you drive up the winding Sogeri Road out of Port Moresby, the air thins and cools, and the Laloki River canyon wall and Hombrum Bluff provide breathtaking views.

☛ Madang: Set by the sea, Madang Resort has it all: pools, restaurants, cocktail bars, tennis, gym and a big list of activities and tours, including diving, madangresort.com.

The Kokoda Trail Motel (KTM) is one of the places you can visit with expansive grounds, friendly staff and tour options all around the Sogeri Plateau.

☛ Kokopo: The beachfront Rapopo Plantation Resort has sea and volcano views, a pool, a dive centre for lessons and excursions, and comfortable rooms with polished timber floors and air-con. Some rooms also have leather furniture and Nespresso machines. Free breakfast and kayaks are included in the price, rapopo.com.

The tours include picnics to waterfalls and islands on Sirinumu Dam, and visits to see cave paintings by the ancestral Koiari people of Sogeri. The motel hosts community events, such as the recently launched Pineapple Festival and an Enduro Challenge, which includes running, kayaking and cycling.

☛ Rabaul: Rabaul Hotel, character-filled, three-star with the best place to eat in town, rabaulhotel.com.pg.

At the motel, there are about 20 bicycles for rides around the property and to the markets along the main road.

☛ Alotau: Driftwood Resort, cosy cabins on the water’s edge, dine on the hotel’s jetty, driftwoodresortpng.com.

Rooms range from standard to deluxe, and there are four two-bedroom cottages.

☛ Mount Hagen: The Highlander Hotel is set in tropical gardens and has a range of room styles, right up to apartments, coralseahotels.com.pg.

LATE & LOUD

☛ The Lamana Gold Club has a reputation as the ‘party capital’, with resident DJs, live music stations and international artists, lamanahotel.com.pg.

☛ The Cosmopolitan is a ritzy superclub at Vision City, often featuring live bands, facebook.com/ CosmopolitanPNG. ☛ Club Illusion is a late-night DJ playground, facebook. com/clubillusion.pg.

DAY TRIPS

ide Fitness Centre modern equipment classes, facebook. fcpom.

The KTM shuttle bus picks up guests in POM, tel. 323 6724.

☛ Crystal Rapids, picnic on the well-maintained lawn area, swim in the river or float over the rapids; via Sogeri. ☛ Kokoda Trail, journey to the trail head at Owers’ Corner about 50 kilometres from POM, and stop in at the Bomana War Cemetery. ☛ Loloata Island Resort, newly opened, accepts day visitors for a fee, dive, snorkel, laze by the pool, loloataislandresort.com.

PNG Now writers. The listings are not meant to be comprehensive and are not based on commercial considerations. They represent what we like.

NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 33


Kaftan craze

Trends ’n Things

You’d be forgiven for thinking there’s a #kaftanchallenge taking over Port Moresby in recent times with the number of women wearing the modern take on a classic fashion favourite. The ’60s trend with origins in the Middle East has been reinvented in modern splendour with bright bold colours, flowers, bird of paradise and traditional designs to bring Papua New Guinea’s local flavour into the mix. With different designers producing versions over the years, Nafu Waffi has emerged as the kaftan queen of Port Moresby, with her fast-selling women’s tops one of the most sought after items at POM City Markets and Harbourside Night Markets.

WHAT’S HOT CONTRIBUTORS: DUSK DEVI, SYLVIA PASCOE, GABRIELLA MUNOZ, ROBERT UPE

Hand-crafted in PNG Bilum & Bilas is a PNG-based social enterprise with female artisans creating bilas (body adornments) and bilums (traditional bags). The contemporary pieces are hand-crafted and include the jewellery (pictured). Founder, Jessica Cassell, is from London but has lived in Port Moresby since 2008 when she came to Papua New Guinea as a volunteer. Pieces are available online from bilumandbilas.com, which also lists local stockists in Port Moresby and Madang.

T-shirts with a message Started by Fijian creatives in Sydney, Australia, Vtees679 has created a range of T-shirts that keep classic Fijian slang alive. The T-shirts are printed with various phrases such as ‘Urban Jungli’, ‘100% That Kuttiya’ and ‘Set. Bro’. There’s also a Papua New Guinean collection with ‘Style Meri’ and ‘Yu.Tok’ (pictured).

34 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

The Ts are hand printed and made per order as VTees679 is committed to zero waste. They come in black print on white only, with sizes right up to XXL. The word is that more styles will be released soon. Available at vtees679. com and the Fijian shopping platform, MultiDrua.


A brush with fame Papua New Guinean artist Lesley Wengembo attracted a lot of social media interest after featuring in our inaugural issue, and since then his brilliant life-like portraiture has been in the spotlight in Australia too. Wengembo, 23, was selected as a finalist from 766 entries in the recent Brisbane Portrait Prize. He also entered the prestigious Archibald Prize. For Brisbane, he painted Australian philanthropist Timothy Fairfax (pictured top right) and for the Archibald he painted Fijian friend and mentor Mal Nabogi (pictured bottom right). Wengembo is studying at the National Art School in Sydney. The Archibald was won in September by Vincent Namatjira. He is the first Indigenous artist to win the award in its 99-year history and is a descendant of Australia’s famed artist Albert Namatjira. You can see his winning entry at artgallery.nsw.gov.au.

Tickets without queues Want to buy tickets to see your favourite rugby team but can’t afford to spend hours queuing to get seats? The new Papua New Guinean app, Ticket Bilum, provides the solution. The free app is similar to ticketing websites such as Ticketmaster and Ticketek, however Ticket Bilum has been designed for, and by, Papua New Guineans. The app’s founder is Tidman Ikosi, who wanted tickets to a PNG Hunters game in 2015. He tried to buy the tickets during his lunch hour but all the venues he visited had long queues, so he went back to work empty-handed but hopeful of getting a ticket online. When he visited the website, however, there was no online shop. The idea for Ticket Bilum was born. The app offers tickets to all sorts of events, including sporting and cultural, and is integrated with BSP’s online payment gateway. Ikosi has plans to expand the app to other Pacific nations. He is working with the developers to see how they can adapt the app to Fijian dollars, Samoan tālā and Vanuatu’s vatu.

Surf’s up Travel publisher Lonely Planet has released Epic Surf Breaks of the World, a hardback book that chronicles some of the world’s best waves. Papua New Guinea, of course, is among the 34 countries featured, with Vanimo, Kavieng and Tupira rating a mention. The Lonely Planet writer who visited Vanimo, Beau Flemister, stayed for two months and writes about the strong surf culture he observed among the locals. He says elders told him stories of people belly-surfing on sago-palm rafts around Vanimo hundreds of years ago. In all, the book includes 200 of the greatest surf breaks in the world, with others in the region including Papatura in the Solomon Islands, Noosa in Australia, Cloudbreak in Fiji and G-Land in Indonesia. Epic Surf Breaks of the World is available at shop.lonelyplanet.com. NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 35


Trends ‘n Things

It’s a vegetarian world You may have missed it, but World Vegetarian Day was celebrated on October 1. There is a worldwide trend towards vegetarian and vegan eating, with an estimated 10% of the global population following some kind of vegetarian diet. In the five years between 2014 and 2019, Google trends show that interest in veganism has increased seven-fold. Now, an entire hotel group in the region has turned vegetarian. Ovolo Hotels announced on October 1 that all of its properties in Hong Kong and Australia will be vegetarian for 365 days, with dishes like the sage gnocchi (pictured). Ovolo founder and CEO, Girish Jhunjhnuwala, says there is a rise in consumer interest in plant-

based and vegetarian cuisine and that the hotel is meeting its customers’ wants. Papua New Guinean vegetarians may have to wait for Air Niugini to start passenger flights to Australia again before they can partake in a vegetarian feast at Ovolo. The closest Ovolo to Port Moresby is in Brisbane.

A chilled Christmas

C

M

For Christmas, many Papua New Guineans travel home to relax and be with family. Here’s how Christmas is observed in three colder parts of the world.

Y

CM

MY

CY

US Americans often adorn their houses with garish lights. A white Christmas is celebrated in many parts of the country, with snow on the ground. Inside, turkey and ham are likely to be on the table and eggnog is a traditional Christmas drink. It’s a mixture of raw eggs, alcohol and milk.

01

Austria Many towns and cities have christkindlmarkts (Christmas markets) during November and December. The biggest are in the capital of Vienna and cities such as Salzburg (pictured). They sell gingerbread, warm mulled wine and decorations. There’s usually a big decorated Christmas tree, and outdoor ice-skating rinks are busy.

CMY

Taking the plunge

02

36 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

Lapland This is a sub-Arctic region in Finland (it also straddles Sweden and Norway) that has become famed as the home of Santa. There’s a theme park called Santa Claus Village (santaclausvillage.info) that is open all year, and reindeer sleigh rides are popular.

03

Scooters have become popular in the city streets of western countries from New York to Melbourne, but now you can take scootering a step further with this Trident underwater scooter. It has two speeds: low for the gentle glides and high for more thrust with a maximum speed of 6.6kmh. To use it, divers, snorkellers or swimmers hold it out front with both arms and are propelled forward. The scooter weighs just 3.7 kilograms and comes in a bag so it can be taken on to planes as hand luggage. Available at CHM stores.

K



Escape

A DAY ON THE SEA BY CARMEL PILOTTI

Day trips on Port Moresby’s beautiful Fairfax Harbour and some islands off the coast are being offered out of Port Moresby on board the 22-metre motorised catamaran MV K20. Operated by Sport Fishing PNG, the luxury boat was available only for private charters until recently. Guests on the new trips can try their hand at catch-andreturn fishing, go snorkelling or swimming, take a picnic to an island, or use the boat’s water toys and banana boat. On most trips, you’re likely to see a pod of dolphins. Stopovers include Fisherman, Manubada and Idiha islands. The spacious catamaran is well equipped for multi-day trips, which are also available. It accommodates 45 passengers, plus crew, and has two state rooms, four bunk rooms, lounge, dining area and three decks where guests can relax. Sport Fishing PNG’s sales and marketing manager, Hecsterson Mangalindan, says: “Our team loves to explore and look for destinations that define how beautiful Papua New Guinea is so we can share it with our citizens and the world.” For details, contact Port Moresby Harbour Cruise and Boat Charters on Facebook, email info@ sportfishingpng.net, or tel. 7177 1766.

On most trips, you’re likely to see a pod of dolphins

The trips include: 01 WEEKEND ISLAND GETAWAY

A trip to Fisherman Island for a full-day picnic at the beach, with meal included.

02 HARBOUR CRUISE

A four-hour trip (5pm to 9pm) with packages that include food and drink, DJ or three-piece band. There’s also a sunset cruise on Friday evenings from 5pm to 8pm.

MULTI-DAY ISLAND/ FISHING GETAWAY

03

Trips can be customised according to guest preferences. For up to 12 people.

38 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

04 ONE-DAY SMALL BOAT BEACH TRANSFER

A trip to Fisherman Island for small groups. Package includes table and chairs, marquee, Esky with ice and the skipper and deckhand.

05 ONE-DAY FISHING

Fish at sea for giant trevally, coral trout and mackerel, and up the rivers for black bass and barramundi. (Long-range trips of eight days take guests out as far as Milne Bay and Western Province.)


We are deeply committed to doing our part in contributing to Papua New Guinea’s development PNG LNG Contribution to the State

Building Community

Developing Future Leaders

PGK

1

billion

has been invested in infrastructure and building communities focused on education, health, women’s empowerment and community livelihood program since 2010

PGK

10billion

paid to the government for taxes, landowner royalties, provincial development levies, and distribution to Kumul and MRDC since 2014

3900 workforce

(for details see pnglng.com website)

Growing PNG Business

PGK invested in Hela and

195 million

Highlands Highway infrastructure since 2017 through advanced tax

PNG LNG is supplying up to 50% of Port Moresby’s

gas & electricity helping the city with cheap and reliable power supply through PNG Power

PGK pledged and in-kind support

6 million PGK

1.2 million

for humanitarian relief support after the 2018 earthquake

86% 48

220

Operations and Maintenance technicians trained

25% women PGK

6 billion

invested in landowner companies

PGK

14 296,000 billion contributed to local businesses & SMEs

20,000

trained at IBBM enterprise centre entrepreneurs and more than

22million kina invested in capacity

hours of training has been delivered to more than 14,600 course participants since start of production

As of September 2020, 100% Control Room Technicians are Papua New Guinean citizens, including 10 women

building

donation and support to combat COVID-19

Proud sponsor of PNG LNG Kumuls since 2013

Justin Olam PNG LNG Kumuls facebook.com/ExxonMobilPNG1/

are Papua New Guineans are now holding supervisory roles

@exxonmobil_png

www.pnglng.com


Food

IN THE KITCHEN

JULIAN HENAO CELEBRITY CHEF BY CARMEL PILOTTI | PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY KINA BANK & THE PNG CHEF

SIMPLE AND HEALTHY EATING Papua New Guinean Julian Henao has travelled far and wide as a chef. He has worked in restaurants in London, Hong Kong and Sydney and has developed a philosophy that good food is about simple flavours and presentation. Better known as Chef Julz, the 35 year old uses minimal additions to bring out the unique flavours of core ingredients. The chef is also keen to promote PNG produce through food tourism. “Food tourism in PNG is nonexistent and it has a lot of potential when compared to other countries,” he tells PNG Now. Chef Julz has become one of the most recognisable foodie faces in PNG with his alluring food diary on social media. He also reaches a larger audience with his cooking show PNG Chef, which airs on TVWAN on Tuesdays at 7pm. “I’m hoping to bring a bit more light to food tourism through the dishes I create by making them a bit more marketable and appealing to the next generation,” he says. Chef Julz also likes to highlight the healthy side of local organic produce. He says the rest of the world is moving towards natural and simple food and that PNG can 40 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

easily embrace the movement. “It’s just a matter of giving it a little push,” he says. After a two-year stint at the Lamana Hotel in Port Moresby, Chef Julz started The Healthy Food Co in March 2019. The company delivers healthy meals to clients every week. Beginning with a trial run with family and friends, the business grew from five clients to 30 in just two weeks. The company doesn’t stick to any one cuisine, but uses local produce as the foundation of its menus. “We have to make it as interesting as possible throughout the week, so we don’t limit ourselves on what we create and what we use,” Chef Julz says. One favourite ingredient for the young chef is perhaps not what you would expect; it’s the local green leafy vegetable aupa or amaranth. He says it has just as much nutritional value as spinach but doesn’t get the same marketing – reinforcing his point on the potential of local products that don’t get enough exposure. He also singles out local vanilla beans, seafood, strawberries and honey for praise. Chef Julz decided early that he was going to cook for a living. At

CHEF JULZ’ ESSENTIAL QUALITIES FOR A CHEF ☛ Good communication to get the best out of those you work with, including colleagues on the kitchen floor and food suppliers. ☛ Knife skills. ☛ Good attitude: Don’t think everything should be done your way; know you will learn every day.


Left: Chef Julian Henao. Below: The chef’s refreshing pomelo salad.

RAINBOW POMELO SALAD RECIPE BY JULIAN HENAO

Serves 4 The pomelo is a large citrus fruit that tastes similar to grapefruit and is plentiful in PNG.

INGREDIENTS

For the ginger dressing 100g chopped ginger 100ml white wine vinegar Salt and pepper to taste 400g olive oil 1tbs honey For the slaw 200g red cabbage 100g carrots 200g Chinese cabbage 50g celery 50g yellow, green, red peppers 100g wong bok leaves 1pc red chili 1pc green chili 2 whole pomelo segments 50g seed mix

HOW TO DO IT

1 To make the dressing, finely chop the ginger. Add to bowl. Add vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and whisk in olive oil. Season with honey. 2 For the slaw, finely slice all vegetables. Place into a bowl and season with the dressing. Let rest for 20 minutes until the cabbage starts to break down. Once broken down, place onto a plate and garnish with pomelo segments. Sprinkle seed mix over the slaw for texture.

NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 41


Food age 19, he ditched a university course and, with the support of his parents, started training as a chef. Since then, he has built up a profound love and respect for food through his work and experiences. He has worked in the two-hatted restaurants Aria and Becasse in Sydney, 22 Ships in Hong Kong, and the Texture Restaurant in London. Chef Julz says being a chef is about more than just cooking tasty food; it’s about helping the farmer, the fisherman, the marketer and the small business. “Everything I’ve learned is from the chefs that I’ve worked for – they’ve always told me that our job is to treat the produce with a lot of respect and to do our part to help the whole chain – chefs

42 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

Chef Julz on …

Chef Julian Henao likes to work with local produce, including freshly caught tuna.

are sort of like the marketers for the produce,” he says. Chef Julz has recently become a Kina Bank brand ambassador and says being affiliated with such a brand has been beneficial to him as a small-business owner. He says there are many projects in the pipeline with Kina Bank to keep an eye out for.

The POM food scene Lots of potential – we’re moving in the right direction. Favourite cafe in POM I love to support local, so I’d say the Sunrise Express Cafe at the Ela Beach Mobil Service Station at the bottom of Lawes Road, owned by Margret Lifu. Healthy eating In the morning, I recommend apple cider vinegar in water to help cleanse the system. And I can’t get enough of steamed fish with lots of lemon. My food indulgence Ice cream. Any kind, with a bit of Milo on top.


Food

A SLURP OF VIETNAM BEEF PHO BY HAL DENTE

BEEF PHO Serves 4 Easy to make

INGREDIENTS

The whole world loves a good pho, and there’s no reason Papua New Guineans should be missing out on this Vietnamese noodle soup. All the ingredients are readily available in PNG and it’s easy to make. Pho first emerged in Vietnam around the 1880s, during the time of French colonisation. The word pho, pronounced ‘fuh’ and not ‘foe’, is thought to have been adapted from the French term ‘pot au feu’, which is a French beef stew with broth. The rest of the world embraced pho after the Vietnam War in 1975, when there was an exodus of Vietnamese refugees fleeing communist rule. They went to the US, Canada, Europe and Australia and took their pho recipes with them. Pho has been popular around the globe ever since, and you can travel to any large city from Los Angeles to London and find countless pho restaurants. Purists say that a good beef pho will take time to make, starting with beef bones that are boiled and washed to remove scum. But skip the hard work and give our 45-minute recipe a go; we think it’s slurp worthy. Eat with chopsticks and a Chinese soup spoon for an added dash of authenticity.

400g beef very thinly sliced* 400g thin rice noodles For the broth For the topping 2 litres of beef stock Red chili chopped finely 1 onion chopped finely Fresh coriander, basil or 2 slices ginger mint 2 cinnamon sticks Bok choy chopped finely 3 star anise Cabbage chopped finely 1tsp coriander seeds Red onion thinly sliced 2 cardamom pods Bean sprouts 2 slices ginger Lime cut into wedges 2 garlic cloves chopped *To slice beef thinly, put it finely in freezer for about 20 minutes to firm up. 2tsp brown sugar 80ml fish sauce Salt to taste

HOW TO DO IT

1 To make the broth, brown the broth ingredients in a large pot for a minute or two and then add the stock, sugar and fish sauce. Bring to boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Discard solids and return to simmer. 2 Cook the noodles to packet instructions and drain. 3 To serve, place noodles in a bowl, top with thinly sliced raw beef and ladle the hot broth on top. The beef will cook in the hot broth. Garnish with your favourite toppings.

BIG TICKS FOR PHO ✔ It’s affordable.

✔ It’s adaptable: can be made with beef, chicken, pork or prawns; or tofu and mushroom for a vegetarian twist. ✔ It’s healthy, especially if you hold back on the salt. ✔ It’s low on calories. A medium-sized bowl is about 400 calories. To see your recommended daily calorie intake go to calculator.net/calorie-calculator.

NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 43


Food

REVIEW

FOOD MART RESTAURANT LAE BY SYLVESTER GAWI | PHOTOGRAPH: SYLVESTER GAWI

Conveniently located in the heart of the CBD, Lae’s newest licensed restaurant opened recently on the first floor of the Food Mart store on Seventh Street. Under the Seeto Kui franchise, the idea of the Food Mart Restaurant is to use local produce and the freshest ingredients. “It’s not fast food, it’s real food made as fast as we can with the freshest ingredients,” says manager Anthony Seeto. The restaurant is open for

breakfast, lunch and dinner, or just for a casual drop-in for coffee, smoothies and juices. Some of the highlights among the mains are salt and pepper squid, steamed fish, mumu chicken, roast pork, Mongolian lamb and crispy pork belly. They’re served with a choice of freshly cooked vegetables, fried rice and Chinese noodles. There are all-day breakfasts, Asian breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, salads, dumplings,

TEL. +675 479 3288. OPEN Daily 8am to 3pm. STYLE A varied menu with Chinese influence, but also burgers, pizza and pasta. GO-TO DISH Crispy pork belly with fried rice.

noodle soups and wantons, as well as a delicious range of cakes and desserts. There’s also a takeaway menu, with meals cooked fresh and conveniently packed.

Kapi & Clarke

Chartered Accountants

Auditors, Liquidators, Business & Tax Advisers

Established for 18 years External & Internal Audits of Companies, Associations and Trusts Relief Accounting, System Reviews, Procedures Manuals, MYOB Training and General Accounting Support Start Ups, New Companies, Joint Ventures, Foreign Company Approvals, Registered for Online Lodgments Tax Planning, including Foreign Contracts, International Agreements & Exit Strategies

A premier restaurant inspired by tradition, crafted for today. Open Every Wednesday - Saturday 6pm - 10pm

Providing specialized services to: Mining Subcontractors, Agriculture, Construction, Manufacturing Sectors, & NGO’s

To make reservations Please Call us on +675 7501 8015

For a professional, competitive and timely service contact: John Clarke FCAUK, CPAPNG (Principal)

Mumu Bar & Grill Ground Level, Kutubu Convention Centre

44 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

Tel Mobile

472 7910 70428092

Head Office Email: jc@kapiandclarke.com.pg


Diet

THE FAST LANE BY ALEXANDRA RICHARDS

Intermittent fasting (IF) could be classified as one of the easiest ways of staying slim and trim. Unlike many other weight loss and health plans, this method does not involve weighing food, following a diet plan or worrying about precise portion sizes. All that is required is a glance at the clock and eating only between certain times, or fasting on certain days. While the concept has been much talked about in the past decade, IF’s popularity has reignited. IF was the most searched diet program in 2019, according to Google Trends search data. Unlike many other ‘fashionable’ health and weight loss methods, IF appears to carry no major pitfalls, according to increasing amounts of research. So, if celebrities such as Beyonce back the IF concept, there must be something in it, right?

WHAT IS INTERMITTENT FASTING? Basically, eating as you normally would most days then eating far less on others; or eating only between certain times of a particular day.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS?

Take your pick from weight loss, protection against diabetes, heart disease and cancer, as well as greater emotional and physical vitality. The theory is that eating as usual and then restricting your intake kick starts your metabolism and cellular rejuvenation.

WHAT DO THE EXPERTS SAY?

Most recent findings give it a thumbs up, according to Harvard Medical School clinical instructor Dr Monique Tello, who quotes a review published in the New England Journal of Medicine.

This review combed through dozens of animal and human studies to find that fasting triggers “several essential cellular functions” and that “flipping the switch from a fed to fasting state does more than help us burn calories and lose weight”. Dr Tello says: “The studies published in the journal explain how simple fasting improves metabolism, lowering blood sugar; lessens inflammation, which improves a range of health issues from arthritic pain to asthma; and even helps clear out toxins and damaged cells, which lowers risk for cancer and enhances brain function.” The studies found that while not everyone loses weight through IF, they will generally become healthier and will record lower insulin levels.

HOW DO I START?

Popular ways to do intermittent

fasting are the 16:8 and 5:2 methods. The 16:8 method involves fasting for 16 hours a day, during which time you will mostly be asleep, and eating two or three meals within the remaining eight hours. The 5:2 method involves restricting calorie intake to below 1000 calories (4200 kilojoules) a day on two consecutive days, then your regular diet for five days. Avoid snacking if possible. Last but not least, prioritise cutting out refined sugars and processed foods (cakes, biscuits, confectionery, for example), and instead filling each meal with lean meats, healthy proteins such as eggs plus whole grains, fruit and vegetables – especially green and leafy varieties such as spinach, broccoli and bok choy. This diet may not be safe for people with medical conditions such as diabetes. Seek medical advice. NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 45


Wellness

YOGA IN THE CITY BY CARMEL PILOTTI & HAL DENTE | PHOTOGRAPHS: SUPPLIED BY NCD ACTIVE CITY DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM

A few years ago, yoga took off in Port Moresby with classes for all ages and fitness levels, only to be slowed by COVID-19 lockdowns this year. It is gradually regaining some momentum now, with free classes offered by the NCD Active City Development Program at the Southside Fitness Centre at Koki. If you want to roll out your yoga mat again, there are hatha yoga classes at the centre on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 10am; yoga for athletes on Tuesday and Thursday from 10am to midday; and yoga for stress relief on Wednesday and Friday from 6pm to 7pm. If you prefer practising yoga in the privacy of your own home, young aspiring Port Moresby yogi Tamara Jenkinson provides online tutorials via her Facebook page ‘Fancy Stretching’ and YouTube channel of the same name. Jenkinson is also featured in the Post-Courier every Thursday with a pose of the week and more in-depth information on physical and mental health benefits. The Royal Papua Yacht Club gym also holds yoga classes during the week for members.

Yoga guarantees wellness as well as fitness. Yoga is not merely an exercise but a way to attain peace through physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing. NARENDRA MODI, INDIAN PRIME MINISTER

At full stretch, yoga at the NCD Active City Development Program in Port Moresby.

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WHAT IS IT? Yoga is a mix of physical, breathing and spiritual practices that originated in India about 5000 years ago.

HOW WILL IT HELP ME? The benefits include increased strength and flexibility, improved posture and reduced stress.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE STYLES OF YOGA? Hatha is a general term for any yoga that uses physical

01 postures. Hatha classes usually include breathing

techniques and are conducted at a slower and gentler pace than vinyasa and ashtanga. Vinyasa is a dynamic physical and breath practice. It’s

02 commonly called flow yoga because yogis move seamlessly from pose to pose using breath. Ashtanga is a rigorous style of postures practised in a set

03 sequence.

Bikram involves 26 poses and two breathing exercises

04 conducted in a hot room, usually about 40C, to replicate the climate of India. Iyengar emphasises precision and alignment and often

05 incorporates props such as blocks.

Yin is a slow form of yoga involving long holds of each

06 posture (five minutes) and is usually conducted lying or sitting.

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NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 47


Art & Culture

A DAY AT THE MUSEUM 10 ITEMS YOU MUST SEE BY CARMEL PILOTTI | PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELS PERSPECTIVE

The Papua New Guinea National Museum and Art Gallery is a remarkable time capsule holding a large part of PNG’s cultural and archaeological history. Here are 10 items you must see at the museum, next to Parliament House in Waigani, museumpng.gov.pg.

FISHING TRAP This is a fishing trap from East New Britain Province. There are three pieces to the trap: a basket with stones to act as an anchor; a bundle of bamboo culms (stems), which acts as a float; and the fish trap itself, which floats about a metre below the surface. The fish find it easy to swim inside but are confused by the labyrinth after they enter and find it difficult to get out.

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OCEAN-GOING CANOE This nagega (ocean-going canoe) is from Panaeati, Misima in Milne Bay Province and was built for traditional Kula trading expeditions. The canoe was sailed to Port Moresby in the 1970s and repaired in 1980 by John Mosuwadoga from the Trobriand Islands, after it had been left exposed to the elements. The colours are natural pigments from various sources, including clay, charcoal and lime. These ocean-going canoes were too large to be paddled and were sailed by seafarers who used their knowledge of ocean currents and celestial navigation.

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BILUMS The bilum (string bag) has become a national symbol. The museum has a variety of early examples on show, made from natural twine. The bags have been in Papua New Guinean society for centuries and have varying uses, including carrying babies, food and personal belongings.

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STONE TOOL This stone tool, dated to 40,000 BP (before present), is made from a volcanic rock and provides archaeological evidence that the first New Guineans succeeded in crossing the sea between Sundaland (including Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Bali) and the Sahul Continent (including New Guinea and the Australian mainland).

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LAPITA POTTERY Shards of this Lapita vessel (1600 BP) were excavated in Lemau, New Ireland Province, and pieced together in 1987. The Lapita were seafarers, arriving in the now New Guinea islands 3000 years ago from the west.

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WAR SHIELD This Atkom shield is from Komdavip Village in West Sepik Province. It was carved with stone adze from ful timber (local name) before 1914. It has been used in many battles and has numerous arrow marks to prove it.

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MALAGAN FIGURE 06 This male figure is

from New Ireland Province. Malagan culture honours the deceased and assists their souls to pass into the spirit world. The carvings are not meant to look like the person but represent the person’s life force. This figure is by the Kara speakers of Panamecho Village. One arm is missing and is said to have carried the skull of a man named Kasaumat.

KUNDU DRUMS This kundu is from Morehead River in Western Province. It is made of wood, lizard and animal skin (possibly tree kangaroo), and coloured with ochre (earthen pigment), lime and charcoal. They were the first kundu to be taken overseas by William McGregor (Administrator and later Lieutenant-Governor of British New Guinea, 1888–1897).

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CONTEMPORARY ART This work is by Taba Silau from Uman Village in Madang Province. It shows two lovers, separated by a cultural mask, which signifies their need to fulfil some traditional obligations before they can wed. He looks up at the uncertain woman. The fish trap and herons in the background are metaphors for his desires.

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HOUSE POST Towering masagumban (house posts) carved out of logs are a sight to see. This one is from the Kanganaman Village in the Middle Sepik region of East Sepik Province. It’s from the Molimbi cult house in the village.

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NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 49


Music

REVOLUTIONARY RHYTHMS

SORONG SAMARAI, SINGING FOR WEST PAPUA BY CARMEL PILOTTI | PHOTOGRAPHS: SUPPLIED BY SORONG SAMARAI

Live performances by Sorong Samarai present the epic atmosphere of cultural Papua – tribal chants, kundu and garamut drums, poignant flute music and traditional and contemporary dance forms. Fused in are bursts of hard-hitting rap lyrics, revealing the realities of life in urban Papua New Guinea and the West Papuan political struggle, and then there is the vibe of resistance in the steady rhythms of reggae. The band has taken these sounds around the West

50 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

Papuan region, spreading a message and a dream – the hope for a one day free West Papua. Rolling Stone magazine describes the band as “powerful” and its music was called the “rhythm of a revolution” by the UK Internationalist. Sorong Samarai is the latest collaboration of musicians to follow on from other activist and contemporary bands in the Pacific region, such as the Black Brothers (West Papua), Yothu Yindi (Australia) and Sanguma (PNG). The band – started by percussionist Airileke Ingram (PNG) and bassist Ronny Kareni (West Papua) – is the flagship live act of their not-for-profit organisation, Rize of the Morning Star (RMS). The organisation aims to raise awareness of West Papua’s calls for independence. From PNG, Sorong Samarai features pioneer of contemporary dance Markham Galut and musicians Twin Tribe (brothers Redley and Baine Lavaiamat),


Sorong Samarai (from left) guitarist Adrian Gedisa, bass player Richard Mogu, vocalist Redley Lavaiamat, rapper Sprigga Mek, drummer and percussionist Airileke Ingram, rapper Ukam Maniczy, dancer Sam Roem and vocalist Baine Lavaiamat.

rapper Allan Aufamau (Sprigga Mek), bass player Richard Mogu and Jagar Renagi (Jagarizza) – all powerful and talented independent acts in their own right. International artists include West Papuan rapper Ukam Maniczy and West Papuan breakdance duo the Roem Brothers (Sam and Yosua), who together with Torres Strait contemporary dancer Albert David mash up the traditional with modern street-style dance in captivating performances. RMS is also a record label and has released two compilations and two singles, including songs from artists around the region who have joined the chorus.

WHAT IS SORONG SAMARAI? This talented collective of already established musicians and dancers is from PNG and West Papua. They have been brought together by percussionist Airileke Ingram and are inspired by the fight for independence for West Papua. Sorong is a town on the northwest tip of West Papua and Samarai is a town on the southeast tip of PNG.

NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 51


Dancer Markham Galut, part of the Sorong Samarai line-up.

Artists like Big Mountain, John Butler, O-shen, Ngaiire, Anslom, Blue King Brown and George Telek have been featured on the compilations, among others. The organisation is not just driving awareness through music, however. A music TV series in the pipeline, named Sorong Samarai, will showcase musicians from West Papua and PNG, with the first season presenting five artists on either side of the border. As if that’s not enough, Sorong Samarai the band is currently working on a soundtrack for a feature movie based on actual events and the stories of West Papua. Jungle of Ghosts is produced by Ingram and directed by internationally acclaimed documentary maker Charlie Hill-Smith. Ingram says the film will feature a female protagonist, a pawahaus meri. Perhaps one of the most notable feats undertaken by RMS so far has been the sailing of a canoe built and skippered by West Papuan Dennis Kubur from Sorong to Samarai, beginning on the island of Biak in West Papua and landing in Alotau, Milne Bay, to attend the Huhu War Canoe Festival in 2016. 52 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

“When we sailed the canoe Wairon from Biak to Alotau, I saw first-hand how people all along the north coast from Vanimo to Madang, Morobe, Oro and Milne Bay were woken up to West Papua simply by the presence of the canoe in their village,” Ingram says. RMS began as a sing-sing (dance) group in Melbourne, Australia, then grew into the band Tabura, which collaborated with numerous musicians, using their platform to spread awareness of West Papua. In 2006, upon moving to Melbourne, Ingram met with 43 West Papuan refugees who had moved that same year – hearing first-hand accounts motivated him to do more, prompting him and Kareni to become more organised, resulting in the RMS movement. “My passion for West Papua is also based on music,” Ingram says. “I hope PNG can one day learn about some of the iconic song writers and artists in West Papua; there is some incredible music there.” Arnold Ap, Ingram says, has been described as the Bob Dylan of West Papua; an ethnomusicologist and curator of Cenderawasih University Museum in Jayapura. Ap collected Papuan music and songs, and was a prolific songwriter with his band Mambesak. He was killed in 1983 after being imprisoned for various activist movements – official accounts claim his attempted escape was the reason for his death. Like Ap, Sorong Samarai aims to preserve a strong cultural knowledge and presence through music and dance. “RMS is about more than just politics. It’s more about identity and consciousness,” Ingram says. “I believe democracy only works relative to how informed people are so music, freedom of expression and quality media are key.” Over the years, obtaining a degree in music, Ingram has gained a wealth of knowledge in traditional music from all over PNG and the Pacific, mentored by his mother’s family from Gabagaba in the Central Province and leaders in the creative arts like the late Tony Subam – founder of the Sanguma Band. Sorong Samarai has been invited to tour Australia, New Zealand and the US in 2021 and the group is happy to come back to PNG if a local promoter steps up. The band is also seeking investor support for its various projects, including a new album, the movie and music TV series. Sorong Samarai’s music and work can be found via its YouTube channel, Rize of the Morning Star.


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Dance

HIP-HOP WHIZZES MEET THE WAN SQUAD

BY LEANNE JORARI | PHOTOGRAPHS: GODFREEMAN KAPTIGAU

It’s a sunny Saturday in Port Moresby and a group of young men, decked out in eye-catching, custom-made ‘Team PNG’ apparel make their way into the city’s Nature Park. They’re hard not to notice and, before long, adoring fans, nervously but eagerly approach them for photos. Labelled Papua New Guinea’s ‘first dance crew’, the young men are Wan Squad; a hip-hop outfit specialising in urban hip-hop dancing. The Squad members are David Chee, 25, Joel Vene, 19, Fred Mathews, 24, Max Roma, 29, and Lloyd Nadile, 30. Fresh from featuring in the Kali-D hit PNG, the guys from Wan Squad don’t show any signs of slowing down. The group’s dance moves, a marrying of modern and traditional choreography, are featured in the independence hit and, suffice to say, they steal the spotlight with every move. 54 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

But that’s nothing new for the young men who already have some big performances in their resume: from dancing for crowds at last year’s ‘Carols by the Sea’ to crowning night of the 2019 Miss PNG Pacific Islands; and more recently the recent Digicel Cup Grand Final. But performances aren’t the only thing that Wan Squad have to boast about. The group has rubbed shoulders with some of the best dance crews in the region and the world. In a world sans COVID-19, the group travelled to New Zealand early last year for the South Pacific Hip Hop International Qualifiers, their first international dance competition. Battling dance crews from other Pacific countries, Wan Squad won the qualifiers, securing a spot at the 2019 World Hip Hop International Dance Championship.


Far left: Wan Squad with some adoring fans. This page: Wan Squad dancers Max Roma (top), Fred Mathews (bottom), David Chee (left), Lloyd Nadile (right).

Before long, adoring fans approach for photos.

Though the group failed to rank, it came home with bragging rights for being the first-ever dance crew from PNG to represent the country at the world’s largest street dance organisation. A massive achievement. If you don’t know who they are, you soon will. Their rise in prominence includes teaming up with Fone Haus early this year to feature in their Samsung Galaxy A #DanceAwesome marketing campaign, a worldwide dance challenge set to a catchy jingle. So while COVID-19 has halted travel overseas and closed borders, through social media the group’s fanbase has grown exponentially. Across platforms like TikTok and Facebook, the group’s consistency in uploading dance videos has paid off. The group recently celebrated 30,000 followers on TikTok alone. Born years ago, in the streets of the Bronx in New York, hip-hop dancing has taken off all around the world. However, what sets Wan Squad apart is the group’s defiant move to integrate PNG’s cultural dances and rhythms into their choreography. This feat brings a smile and a sense of pride to Papua New Guineans lucky enough to have witnessed them dance. NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 55


Sport

LOCKER ROOM CHAT

ELSIE ALBERT RUGBY LEAGUE PLAYER BY LEMACH LAVARI | PHOTOGRAPHS: TROY TAULE & SOUTHS LOGAN MAGPIES

Elsie Albert is the captain of Papua New Guinea’s national women’s rugby league team, the PNG Orchids. She played for Souths Logan Magpies in the Queensland Women’s Premiership for most of 2020 and has now signed a one-year contract to play for the St George Illawarra Dragons in the Australian National Rugby League (NRL) women’s competition, which started in October. Albert, a former heavyweight boxer, has been nick named the ‘Juke Box’ by her teammates because dishing out ‘big hits’ has become a trademark of her game. Bone-rattling tackles and strong charges with speed and agility have made her a reliable defender.

Elsie Albert on … The first time I played rugby league was in 2018 while studying at the PNG University of Natural Resources and Environment. I have put a hold on my undergraduate study in tropical agriculture to play footy professionally in Australia. Joining the Dragons I’m excited and nervous at the same time, but will do what I usually do: run hard, hit hard so our backs can have space and move freely. It has been good to have a lot of Island girls with a number of PNG girls in the team, so I fit right in. It has been a great journey with them so far. During my normal pre-game routine I like to do stretches, listen to music and picture what I will do on the field when I get out there.

56 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

I’m driven by the motivation to show that PNG is full of raw talent and we have what it takes to play rugby; we just need a chance to prove that we can be the best. This motivates me to push myself harder. My rugby league idol is twotime Australian NRL premiership winner and New Zealand international Sonny Bill Williams. A word of encouragement for those pursuing their goals My advice would be nothing comes easy so work hard and stay dedicated, and last but not least stay humble.


FOR THE RECORD Nickname: ‘Juke Box’ or ‘Els’ Team: St George Illawarra Dragons Position: Front rower Age: 24 NRL.com says: Elsie is in the top 10 of rookies to watch and boasts plenty of international experience. She is renowned for her hard hitting and powerful running.

Elsie Albert as a Magpie (opposite page) and an Orchid (left).

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Achievement

DREAMS DO COME TRUE A SALUTE TO JUSTIN OLAM BY ROBERT UPE

Papua New Guinean rugby league player Justin Olam has realised a boyhood dream by winning an NRL grand final with Melbourne Storm. To put icing on the cake, Olam, 26, scored the first try in Storm’s 26–20 victory over the barnstorming Penrith Panthers at ANZ Stadium in Sydney in late October. Days later, at the team’s playerof-the-year ceremony, Olam was named as Storm’s most improved player. As a young boy in 1999, Olam watched his first NRL game. It was the grand final and Storm won its first-ever premiership with PNG rugby league legend Marcus Bai in the team. Olam hoped that one day he could emulate Bai. Twenty-one years later, mission accomplished. Olam was featured in our inaugural issue of PNG Now in

September and gave this advice to aspiring Papua New Guinean players: “Believe in yourself and follow your dreams; work very, very hard because nothing in this life is easy.” Olam signed with Storm in 2016 but didn’t break into the team as a regular until the middle of last year. Since then, he has established an awesome reputation as a power player and a PNG hero who stops the nation when his games are broadcast on television in PNG. During 2020, Olam scored 11 tries in 21 games, had 52 tackle busts and seven line breaks. Olam’s teammate, Josh AddoCarr, told the Australian media: “He’s really proud of his people and where he comes from. We call him the human brick. In my opinion he is the best centre in the game.”

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Real Estate

FIRST HOME BUYER

THE KEY THINGS TO CONSIDER WITH ROBERT UPE | PHOTOGRAPHS: SUPPLIED BY KINA BANK

Left: Be sure to pick a home with suitable space to suit your family. Below: Kina Bank’s Yawetau Salem.

Kina Bank is experiencing a surge in home loan applications, so we have asked Yawetau Salem, the bank’s Head of Priority Customers, for his tips on buying a home.

Yawetau Salem on … When you’re ready to buy your first home, there are many things to think about: what mortgage to apply for; how much you need for a deposit; finding a conveyancer or solicitor. Another essential factor is how your new home will fit your lifestyle. Buying a house is one of life’s major decisions and it’s important to consider how your home will suit your everyday life – today and in the future. If you’re planning to have a family, you’ll need extra space to expand and you may want to think about whether the layout of the house is child friendly. Perhaps you want space for a home office. With COVID-19, more people are choosing to work from home. 60 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

We hear about the importance of location all the time. One of the primary factors real estate agents consider is how it will impact the re-sale value of your house; will it increase in value and is it a good investment? But location is also important when it comes to everyday life. How far away from the office will your new house be? A long commute can impact on your schedule, whether that’s picking up children from school, doing the weekly shop or making time to catch up with friends for coffee. The proximity

of your new house to other frequently visited places is also important. Is it near to church or are there shops or a doctor’s surgery nearby? If you have children, do you want your new house to be near their school? If you’re a foodie and you love to cook, think about the size and style of your new kitchen. If you love gardening, is there enough outside space to indulge your passion? What about if you love being outdoors, is there a park or beach nearby, or somewhere you can go for a walk? Or perhaps you want to relax in front of the television – how comfortable is the living space to unwind in?


Your Money

REVIVAL OF THE BARTER SYSTEM BY LEANNE JORARI

Forged by years of shared interwoven culture, Pacific Islanders are surprisingly returning to traditional practices, such as the barter system, thanks in large part to the global COVID-19 pandemic. COVID-19 has triggered significant changes the world over. Loss of jobs and livelihoods, sectors coming to a complete halt and, impossible to ignore, the tragic loss of lives to the illness. The illness has affected vital sectors like tourism, fisheries and the extractive industries, which Pacific countries like Papua New Guinea rely heavily on. PNG closed its borders and put in measures to control public movement when the first case of COVID-19 was reported in Port Moresby earlier in 2020. Thousands of people lost their jobs and the government reported a loss of 2 billion kina in revenue in its mid-year economic and fiscal outlook. In the face of it all, the Pacific has shown its resilience by adapting to the use of the barter system. The system was an ancient tool for commerce before the introduction of money, when villagers would share goods and or services with each other in exchange for other goods and services. For example, a fisherman may have traded fresh fish with a farmer for kaukau (sweet potatoes). Recently this practice has been

= Money is tight for many these days, so how about we trade what we have for what we want. Our tumbunas (ancestors) bartered in the past, why can’t we today?

resurfacing in urban areas. Online groups have been created on social media, with members upwards of 100,000, using the barter system as a solution to the hardships brought on by the pandemic and the ensuing economic challenges. Facebook pages such as ‘Barter for Better PNG’ and, in Fiji, ‘Barter for Better Fiji’, boast thousands of users who trade miscellaneous items like tech goods for clothing, and even cartoon drawings for telephone credits. The items traded vary from inexpensive to thousands of Fiji dollars of kava roots. A poster on ‘Barter for Better PNG’ states that: ‘Money is tight for many these days, so how about we trade what we have for what we want. Our tumbunas (ancestors) bartered in the past, why can’t we today?’ A noteworthy fact in this trend is that more than half of the users are young Pacific Islanders who have grown up in urban areas and have not previously witnessed the barter system in use. NOVEMBER 2020 PNG NOW 61


CV

AT WORK WITH

MASTER MARINER CAPTAIN JASON FEDA WITH ROBERT UPE | PHOTOGRAPH: SUPPLIED BY CONSORT EXPRESS LINES

Captain Jason Feda has been appointed the fleet commodore of 10 vessels of Papua New Guinea’s largest shipping company, Consort Express Lines. Consort is a company that ships cargo to major ports around PNG, including Vanimo in the far north and Alotau in the far south. Feda joined the ranks of the Lae-based company 18 years ago through its cadetship program as a deck cadet. The program is a pathway for officers leading up to the rank of a ship’s master (captain of a ship). Feda has reached the rank of master mariner, a position that allows him to command any size ship in the world.

Jason Feda on … His recent appointment I am privileged to be proof of the success of Consort’s training program for seafarers. I’ve climbed up the ranks through the cadetship program. The cadetship program begins with induction training at a maritime training college in Fiji to prepare cadets for on-board training, then a length of sea time on board vessels. This process equips cadets to attain their certificate of competency and become officers. From there, the cadets work their way up the ranks through further sea time. There are currently 15 (Consort) cadets in Fiji, and another 16 cadets on board our vessels doing their 12 months of sea time. The biggest ships in our fleet are 116 metres in length overall and 6245 gross registered tonnage, and they carry general cargo to all the major seaports in PNG. Navigating around PNG waters and in close proximity to the coast is challenging and requires an extensive navigational skill-set, 62 PNG NOW NOVEMBER 2020

combined with local knowledge. This is gained through many years of sea-time experience. One of my most interesting sea voyages was crossing the narrow 82-kilometre Panama Canal – one of the Seven Wonders

of the Modern World – when delivering a vessel for Consort from the Caribbean to PNG. The canal consists of locking systems that act as water lifts to raise and lower ships 26 metres between the canal’s lake system and the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.


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