Paradise: the in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, September/October 2019

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Paradise The in-flight magazine of Air NiuginI volume 5 september – october 2019

drum roll A weekend of canoes and drums at Alotau

TOP 50


A bucket list of things to see and do in PNG and the region

A fishing expedition to secret PNG rivers

PLUS: New motoring column Fashion Wellness Hotel reviews

It’s time to trust your engine oil

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in paradise contentS AIRLINE NEWS




A message from Air Niugini’s managing director

Paradise Q&A: Surfer Andrew Abel

Air Niugini tests new plane Direct flights to Fiji Special flights to Pacific Games Maintenance milestone

10 14 14 16 16

PNG reggae star launches in Africa


Longboard surfing championship coming back to PNG



Hong Kong’s big food and wine festival


Frogs with horns and parachutes


Rabaul’s Frangipani Festival


Queensland’s Hayman Island back in business Big Picture

29 30


Top 50 A bucket list of things to see and do in PNG and the region Chasing monsters A fishing expedition to secret PNG rivers Country guide Vanuatu in focus



International hotel review Hong Kong’s Rosewood PNG hotel review Lae’s Crossroads Hotel


Smart travelling 20 tips to make your holiday smoother

Airport review Nadi, Fiji

Three of a Kind Volcano experiences


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Time Traveller

68 70 72 74 76

in paradise



London calling PNG designers show their wares to the world


Top gear Our new motoring column Two-minute expert The Papua LNG project



Food review PNG Mumu restaurant, Port Moresby


Drum roll A weekend of canoes and drums at Alotau Adventures on the tapa trail One woman’s mission to promote tapa art


Spotted In A PNG anthropologist in Brisbane


My PNG A private museum of World War 2 relics


Gadgets and travel accessories Film reviews


Book reviews


PNG tourism on the rise Record visitor numbers in 2018


Lighting up the nation A country-wide solar project


Executive style Watches for him and her


How well do you know PNG and the region? Take the quiz

Special human resources report



134 114 Port Moresby street map 143 144 116 Tok Pisin words and phrases NIUGINI PASSENGER 118 AIR INFORMATION 146 PARADISE 126 IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT 148 Advice, where to eat, hotels


Lae business guide

102 104 106 108



Business Q&A: Tony Honey, PNG Forest Products

Look good, feel good Wellness

COVER PHOTO: Tribesmen with kundu drums at the annual Kenu and Kundu Festival in Alotau. See our story, Page 78. Picture: Olga Fontanellaz



TOP 50 A bucket list of things to see and do in PNG and the region



A fishing expedition to secret PNG rivers

PLUS: New motoring column Fashion Wellness Hotel reviews

September – October 2019



Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year. BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Andrew Wilkins COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Robert Hamilton-Jones BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Charles Saldanha +61 (0)404 842 472 Business Advantage International Pty Ltd Level 20, 31 Queen Street, Melbourne, Victoria, 3000, Australia Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Fax + 61 3 8678 1269

CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE The Chief Executive Officer Air Niugini PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Tel +675 327 3498 Fax +675 327 3550

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

EDITOR Robert Upe STAFF WRITER David James CONTRIBUTORS Richard Andrews, John Brooksbank, Greg Clarke, Dusk Devi, Glenn Dunks, Olga Fontanellaz, Bronwen Gora, Toby Hagon, Fiona Harper, Thomas Ivarture, Mariana James, Nina Karnikowski, Jo McCauley, Kevin McQuillan, Gabriella Munoz, Mary O’Brien, Chris Peel, Lisa Smyth, Penny Watson AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS Illan Kaprangi, Nori Maniana DESIGN Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile Editorial inquiries Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Paradise online

Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally recognised standard for environmental management. This publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using sustainable forestry practices. Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time and without notice. © Copyright. 2019. All rights reserved.



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Message from the Managing Director

Welcome aboard


’m delighted to confirm two new international services for Air Niugini: direct flights from Port Moresby to Nadi in Fiji commence this month, while we are also taking bookings for flights from Cairns to Hong Kong via Port Moresby. As of October, flying with Air Niugini will be the fastest way to get from Far North Queensland to Hong Kong, both for passengers and airfreight. Air Niugini is, of course, proudly owned by Papua New Guineans. Recently, Kumul Consolidated Holdings (KCH) released figures on the performance of PNG’s state-owned enterprises, including your national airline. After two years of losses, the figures show the airline has started 2019 in profit. The KCH report states: “The results of the first quarter of 2019 demonstrate a significant turnaround for Air Niugini, driven by a management restructure, cancellation of loss-making international sectors and a focus on operating efficiency and staff productivity.” What this indicates is that our Higher Altitudes transformation program, started at the end of 2018, is beginning to bear fruit. If you encounter any member of Air Niugini on a Friday, including myself, you’ll see us wearing

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special Higher Altitudes polo shirts. Wearing these shirts reminds us not only that we’re all part of one team, but also that everyone in Air Niugini can make a difference. A more efficient and productive Air Niugini will be able to deliver better and more reliable services to you, our valued customers, and be in the best position to make the investments we need to ensure those services continue in the future. Investments in new aircraft are a key part of that future. Eagle-eyed customers will have noticed the recent visit of a Brazilian-made Embraer E195–E2 aircraft to Port Moresby. The visit was made at our request, as we are currently evaluating the Embraer – and other aircraft – as we look to upgrade our Fokker fleet. Our fleet replacement program aims to ensure the airline is operating not only the most efficient, cost effective and reliable aeroplanes, but also aircraft that deliver the premium Air Niugini customer experience. Finally, I want to take this opportunity to thank all the Air Niugini staff involved in taking the 167 athletes and officials of Team PNG to the Pacific Games in Apia, Samoa, in July. Congratulations to all the athletes on their achievements as well. Alan Milne Managing Director

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Banking for generations Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141. The liability of its members is limited. Westpac is represented in Papua New Guinea by Westpac Bank PNG-limited.

Airline news The latest from Air Niugini


Board meets in Kokopo

T The Embraer E195–E2 … a delegation of VIPs, government officials, Air Niugini staff, travel agents and journalists gathers for the plane’s demonstration flight in Port Moresby.

Air Niugini tests new plane


ir Niugini has started its search for the most suitable aircraft to update its fleet and was recently given a demonstration in Port Moresby of the capabilities of an Embraer E195–E2. Embraer is a global aerospace company with its headquarters in Brazil and its E195–E2 aircraft is viewed as a possible replacement for Air Niugini’s Fokker planes. Air Niugini is also looking at other options from manufacturers around the world. Air Niugini managing director, Alan Milne, says the airline is in the process of developing a fleet-replacement plan.

he Air Niugini Board recently met in Kokopo. Chairman, Sir Kostas Constantinou, took the opportunity to visit the sales office where he spoke to staff about on-time performance, passion and work culture. Pictured in Kokopo (below, from left) are board member Ken Harvey, managing director Alan Milne, chairman Sir Kostas Constantinou and deputy chairman Andrew Nui. n

He says the airline wants to ensure it is operating the most efficient, cost effective and reliable aeroplanes, while also delivering the premium Air Niugini customer experience. The operating costs for the E195–E2 are claimed to be 25 per cent less than the Fokker and it has good range and unmatched passenger comfort. Since it was founded in 1969, Embraer has delivered over 8000 aircraft to over 100 customers around the globe. n

Direct flights to Fiji


ir Niugini has started direct flights from Port Moresby to Nadi in Fiji. The new non-stop service will initially operate once a week and will complement the existing one-stop flight via Honiara in the Solomon Islands.

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The flying time between Port Moresby and Nadi on the non-stop service is just four hours and 50 minutes, saving almost three hours over the current fastest return journey. The non-stop flights will be operated by Air Niugini’s Boeing 737 aircraft, with

complimentary meals, beverages, and in-flight entertainment. Air Niugini has been flying to Nadi via Honiara since 2007, and currently operates twice a week. n

airline news

The latest from Air Niugini

Ground breaking … Air Niugini staff with the Solomon Airlines plane.

Special flights for Pacific Games

Air Niugini extends maintenance services


ir Niugini has expanded its in-house heavy maintenance checks to include aircraft from other regional airlines, recently working on a Solomon Airlines Dash 8. Air Niugini managing director, Alan Milne, says it is a milestone for the airline. He says the expansion of the checks to other airlines is a result of a training and professional development program introduced by Air Niugini several years ago for engineering and maintenance staff. “It’s history in the making, a proud moment for Air Niugini and Papua New Guinea to see another airline engaging our engineering and maintenance services. “With my engineering background, I can assure everyone that the staff here at Air Niugini engineering are some of the best I have seen so far. I also acknowledge the board and

management of Solomon Airlines for the trust and confidence they have placed in us.” The managing director says many airlines in the region send aircraft to Europe for heavy maintenance checks. “So we see Air Niugini perfectly positioned to start doing that maintenance,” he says. A heavy maintenance check, also known as a ‘C’ check, is a mandatory major inspection, carried out every two or three years after a certain amount of flying hours. Lighter ‘A’ and “B’ checks are carried out every two to six months. A ‘C’ check allocates sufficient time for technicians and maintenance staff to thoroughly check all the structure and components of an aircraft. The duration of a check will depend on the amount of work that needs to be done, but may take two to five months. n

It’s history in the making, a proud moment for Air Niugini and Papua New Guinea to see another airline engaging our engineering and maintenance services.

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ir Niugini operated special flights for Papua New Guinea’s Pacific Games team in July. The team, competing in the games in Apia, Samoa, finished second out of 24 nations on the medal table. PNG won 131 medals, while top-placed New Caledonia collected 182. The next Pacific Games will be held in Honiara, in the Solomon Islands, in 2023. Pictured, are the happy crew members on the charter flight that took the team to Samoa. n

Smart thinking


ine Air Niugini staff were recently recognised for contributing to the airline’s Smart Ideas campaign. The campaign is part of the airline’s Higher Altitudes program, which aims to reduce costs, generate more revenue, build a stronger and happier workforce and excel in customer service. Recent ideas have pertained to cargo storage, excess baggage and office space. The winners of Smart Ideas are rewarded with a range of prizes, including smart phones, tablets and gym memberships. The winning ideas are forwarded to department heads for implementation. Some of the winners of Smart Ideas are pictured with the airline’s managing director, Alan Milne. n


Departure Lounge News, briefings, local knowledge


ANDREW C. ABEL The president and co-founder of the Surfing Association of Papua New Guinea (SAPNG) is pushing ahead with plans to establish surf tourism in Bougainville, perhaps one of the last frontiers for the sport in the world. Q: You’ve been working on a plan to give surfing a foothold in Bougainville, what does the plan entail? A: The SAPNG surf management plan (devised by Abel in 1989) has been introduced in places around the country and we’re now focusing on Bougainville. It involves working with local resource custodians (the landowners). Most of PNG’s land ownership is in the hands of customary clans and the custodial rights extend to fringing reefs. So, it is important to have access permission from the landowners who are, in effect, the gatekeepers, and to give them due respect. The plan limits the number of surfers at any one time (guaranteeing uncrowded waves) and also delivers income to the local people. Q: How is the income derived? A: It comes in the form of fees and levies paid by surfers and the tour operators who take them there. The locals also participate in supplying accommodation, fish, vegetables and other food, as well as boat transport and tours to take surfers bird watching, diving and fishing. The income reticulates directly into the local economies.

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Q: How else do local people benefit? A: On the surfing side, the benefits are that the kids are introduced to a healthy sport. One of the SAPNG’s policies is ‘No School, No Surf’, so we also actively promote education. We say to the kids they can’t access SAPNG surfboards unless they are going to school. The program is supported by Buk Bilong Pikinini with books donated to the SAPNG for the resource centres it is setting up in surfing communities as part of its social obligations. Local people are also exposed to the SAPNG’s ‘Pink Nose Revolution’ policy on addressing the empowerment of women and gender-based violence. Q: What is the level of involvement from local people? A: The involvement of the locals extends from the negotiations, planning, implementation and management of the plan to the selling of the vegetables. It means that PNG is unlike other surf areas in the Pacific where the custodians are the beggars and bystanders on their own land. The whole point of the surf management plan is the distribution of wealth and economic activity all around.

Q: When will it be up and running in Bougainville? A: It will all get going during the 2019/2020 surf season (November–April). Q: Where is the surf in Bougainville and what’s it like? A: We’ve identified 10 reef breaks at Pokpok Island. They’re all in a 10-kilometre radius. There will be a limit of between 10 and 20 international surfers there at any one time. PNG’s not cut out for mass tourism, we don’t have the infrastructure. Q: Where can surfers stay? A: The Uruna Bay Retreat can take 12 people and there are a few other bungalows on isolated islands that can take any overflow. There are proper beds, proper toilets and showers … n

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We’ve identified 10 reef breaks at Pokpok Island. They’re all in a 10-kilometre radius. There will be a limit of between 10 and 20 international surfers there at any one time.

Peeling left … surf’s up in Bougainville (top and above); Bougainville resource custodians with SAPNG-donated surfboards (below); Andrew Abel (opposite page).

In the lineup … visiting Japanese surfers and travel agents, and key figures in the development of Bougainville’s surf plan (from left) Joel Kamilo from the PNG Tourism Promotion Authority; Tomohisa Tereba; secretary for the Department of Communications and resource custodian John Avira; SAPNG patron Kieran Nash; SAPNG president Andrew C. Abel; speaker of the AROB parliament Simon Petanu; Hisashi Tsuchiya; Kentaro Kawabe; SAPNG secretary Sylvia Pascoe.

September – October 2019


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PNG reggae star releases album in South Africa


apua New Guinean reggae musician Anslom (born Ronald Nakikus) may be well known to Pacific reggae fans, but the release of his first international album in South Africa is opening his PNG style of music to more than 200 million fans. “I have always been inspired by the late Lucky Dube’s style of music and the way positive messages promoting love, peace, hope and unity are portrayed within his music,” he tells Paradise.

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In the studio … Anslom (middle) has released his first international album in South Africa and is planning a world tour next year.

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For more than 25 years, Dube produced 22 albums in Zulu, English and Afrikaans and was South Africa’s biggest-selling reggae artist before he was murdered in Johannesburg in 2007. But his style lives on through his band, One People. Anslom met the band when it did a three-city tour of PNG in 2015. Anslom was the curtain-raiser, and was so impressed with their style of music that he dug into his savings to take the band sightseeing in Kokopo, where they did an open-air show, and to his home village of Matupit in Rabaul, so they could experience life in PNG. “I did this in the hope that if I treated them right then maybe when I go to South Africa they would give me the same treatment back, and ultimately agree to work with me on my first international reggae album.” Over the next four years, Anslom travelled to Johannesburg to lay down the tracks for the album Love Me Again, which was released in April.


I have always been inspired by Lucky Dube’s music and the way it promotes love, peace, hope and unity.

Locally, Anslom played with bands like Barike Band and Kuakumba Rutz during his days at the University of Papua New Guinea, where he gained a degree in political science, and then a postgraduate diploma in language and literature at the University of Goroka. “Both degrees have helped me write some of my best songs, but I guess the reggae has got the better of me.”

Anslom was discovered in 2008 by Mangrove Studios in New Caledonia with the help of Emile Tama’asere, popularly known with the PNG radio name of Uncle ET. He produced three albums through Mangrove and realised he could make a career out of music when Mangrove Studios made the first royalty payment. “It hasn’t been an easy journey,” he says. He’s had to take out loans, get sponsors and do numerous shows to fundraise for the trips to Johannesburg. More trips are planned to record video clips, followed by a world tour next year. You can purchase Anslom’s music online at digital stores such as iTunes, Spotify, Joox, Google Play, Deezer, Music and MusicTime. Just type ‘Anslom, Love Me Again’, and there are 11 wonderful tracks. n – KEVIN McQUILLAN

September – October 2019


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Frogs with horns and parachutes


hree previously undiscovered tree frog species have been found during an expedition in Papua New Guinea’s Western Province and Indonesia. Paul Oliver, a herpetologist at the Queensland Museum and Griffith University in Australia, says the three new amphibians include litoria pinocchio and litoria vivissimia, which are visually similar, with a combined green, yellow and brown colour and a spiked horn protruding from their noses.

The third new species, litoria pterodactyla, is bright green and is known as the parachuting frog. It has significant webbing between its toes, allowing it to jump into the air and control its descent by spreading its fingers. Oliver says there are different theories surrounding the function of the spiked nose of the first two frogs. “As far as we can tell the nose spike in litoria pinocchio and litoria vivissimia is likely to be sexually dimorphic: in short, males have them and females

do not. This indicates natural selection has acted on the sexes to have different appearances.” Oliver hypothesises that a male frog with a longer nose may have a mating advantage. PNG is home to an estimated six per cent of the world’s known frog species. It is described by conservation biologist Debbie Bower as a “safe haven” for amphibians due to the lack of the chytrid fungus, which is found


in forests and causes skin disease in frogs. “This fungus has wiped out many species of frog in my home country of Australia –and elsewhere in the world. However, amazingly this fungus does not appear to have reached New Guinea,” she says. “New Guinea is a great place for frogs because it is really wet, which frogs love,” says Oliver. “And second, New Guinea is mountainous; many frogs have adapted to different temperatures and different elevations and then become isolated from each other and evolve into new species.” n – MARIANA JAMES




Nacap PNG Limited Port Moresby +675 313 7922


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New Guinea is a great place for frogs because it is really wet, which frogs love.

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Best longboarders coming back to PNG


apua New Guinea is set to host another round of the World Longboard Championship. The World Surf League (WSL) event is planned for Kavieng from March 18 to 25. It follows on from the successful staging of a round of the championship at Tupira Surf Club in Madang Province in 2017. Like Tupira, the Kavieng event will be conducted by the WSL in partnership with the Surfing Association of Papua New Guinea.

The event is live streamed to a potential audience of 120 million people, giving PNG unprecedented coverage and promotion. It attracts the best longboard riders in the world, and includes wildcard Papua New Guinean surfers. The surfing action will take place on a left-hand break at Nago Island, a short boat ride from Kavieng on the mainland. A judging tower and spectator facilities will be temporarily constructed on the island. n


Rabaul set to celebrate


abaul will be abuzz from September 13 to 16 with the town’s annual Frangipani Festival. The festival celebrates the survival of the town and its people, following the devastating volcanic eruptions of 1937 and 1994. It’s said that the frangipani was the first flower to bloom after the eruptions. The festival includes a float parade through the town’s main

streets (60 floats took part last year), fire dances, canoe races and sing-sings. There’s also a church service on the Sunday, to pray for the estimated 500 people killed in the 1937 eruption. This year’s festival commemorates the silver jubilee of the 1994 eruption. The free festival is highly popular with locals. n

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24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine +675 320 0211 +675 320 0223

For more information about our extraordinary cultural festivals, visit:


#VisitPNG #PNGTourism

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Tokyo’s Shibuya gets even busier


apan’s busy Shibuya neighbourhood in Tokyo is undergoing a major makeover ahead of the city hosting the Olympic Games next year. The Shibuya crossing, pictured, is widely considered to be the busiest intersection in the world with more than 1000 people crossing at each light change. But things are about to get even busier with the opening of Shibuya Scramble Square in November. The square is a 230-metre high, 47-floor tower, being built on top of Shibuya railway station, with an open-air observation deck on top, providing views across Tokyo to Mount Fuji. Beyond the famous crossing and the new observation deck, Shibuya has an impressive fashion and arts scene, and alleyways dotted with shops, cafes, hip bars and restaurants. n

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Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Tokyo weekly. See

(Left-Right) Hubert Warupi – Pacific Sports Media Marketing, Sarah Miller - Grassroot Soccer Partnerships Director, Nicole Banister – Grassroot Soccer Training and Partnership Coordinator, Sisa Kini – EMPNG Community Development and National Content Manager, Jacklyn Ravu – former YWCA Gender Trainer, Andrew Lepani - PNG Olympic Committee Deputy Secretary General

Nurturing PNG’s leaders of tomorrow By supporting life skills programs, ExxonMobil PNG has helped students and educators throughout local communities realise their full potential. Through partnerships with the Papua New Guinea Olympic Values Education Program, the Grassroot Soccer Program and the PNG Cancer Foundation’s Healthy Teens School Program, students and educators across PNG are benefiting from hands-on leadership, skills and values training. Investing in education today helps nurture PNG’s leaders of tomorrow. “ We are grateful to have ExxonMobil PNG support the Olympic Values Education Program. The Olympic Values are positive values that not only transcend sport but all aspects of life. The program has seen a great connection between the athletes and students,” Auvita Rapilla, Secretary General of PNG Olympic Committee and IOC Member.

PNG Partnership

Building capacity for the future

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Hong Kong’s big wine and food show


ore than 140,000 people are expected to attend the Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival from October 31 to November 3. The festival has been running annually for 10 years and brings together world-class food, drinks and entertainment right next to the stunning Victoria Harbour. Aside from wine-pairing meals designed by master chefs and tasting classes by industry experts, there will be more than 400 booths featuring food and drink. n

Air Niugini flies from Port

Moresby to Hong Kong three times weekly. See

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Luxury Aussie island reopens


ustralia’s iconic Hayman Island has re-opened after a two-year, $AUD135 million refurbishment. The new InterContinental Hayman Island Resort promises a high level of island luxury, from the suites that include their own plunge pools, to helicopter rides over the Great Barrier Reef, and five restaurants inspired by local flavours. There’s a day spa, of course, which even includes meditation and energy healing practices. The new resort, formerly branded under the ‘One and Only’ banner, has 166 rooms, all with views of the Coral Sea. See n

September – October 2019


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BIG PICTURE TAKEN BY AARON CHIN A lakatoi (traditional sail boat) once used by the Motu-Koitabu people for trading, moves through the water of Fairfax Harbour, Port Moresby, towards Ela Beach. The photographer took the picture with a drone during last year’s Hiri Moale Festival. The festival returns during Independence weekend on September 21 and 22. The boats make an appearance at the festival each year. To see more PNG aerials, visit the photographer’s Instagram account at @flying_kumul.

If you have a photo of Papua New Guinea that you’d like published in Paradise, email your submission to Photos should be at least 1.5mb and 300dpi.

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our country, our region, our world

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OUR region


A bucket list of sights and activities in Asia and the Pacific STORY: MARY O’BRIEN

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Go to a PNG festival The Goroka Show is the oldest and most famous festival in PNG. The three-day event in the Eastern Highlands – a mix of tribal dancing, sing-sings and rituals – attracts more than 100 clans and thousands of visitors each September. The Asaro mudmen, elaborate headdresses, spear waving and live bands make this one of the most colourful shows in the world. Other PNG festivals include the Mount Hagen Show (August, Western Highlands), the Sepik Crocodile Festival (August, Ambunti), the Mask Festival (July, Kokopo) and the Frangipani Festival (September, Rabaul).




Walk the Kokoda Trail The Kokoda Trail, one of the most challenging trekking experiences in PNG, is all about blood, sweat and tears. The gruelling 96-kilometre trail follows the path on which Australian and Allied soldiers fought against the Japanese army during World War 2. It requires rigorous training but the rewards are stunning scenery through dense jungle, rushing rivers and deep gorges and the chance to connect with remote villagers. The eight-day hike offers a glimpse into one of the world’s last great frontiers.


September – October 2019


traveller Top 50

OUR region

Climb Mount Tavurvur volcano Mount Tavurvur is one of PNG’s most dangerous volcanoes. It erupted as recently as 2014 and in 1994 it destroyed Rabaul. Drive to a certain point and then hike for a couple of hours to the top. The heat makes it difficult but the view from the top makes it worthwhile. Book with a tour group or a hotel. See our story, Page 74.

5 Diving heaven Many areas of PNG have superb diving and snorkelling. Milne Bay is just one of those areas: a must for divers, with pristine islands, great marine biodiversity, rich coral reefs and historic war wrecks. Divers can choose from scuba, muck and wreck diving. Visibility is best from June to August. There are a number of places to stay including the remote Tawali resort, which is reached by boat.


See World War 2 wrecks About 216,000 Japanese, Australian and American soldiers died during the New Guinea campaign in World War 2. The Battle of Milne Bay was the first land defeat of the Japanese and a turning point in the war. Today tourists come to Milne Bay to explore the old war zone, the World War 2 monument and dive among the sunken planes and ships.


Do a surf camp on New Ireland New Ireland is one of the friendliest provinces in PNG, noted for its white sandy beaches, coral lagoons and clear rivers. The friendly Nusa Island Retreat is a small eco-tourism resort. It has overwater huts and runs surfers to the best surf breaks daily.




Spot birds of paradise in the wild One of the best places in the world for bird watching, PNG has 38 of the 43 bird-of-paradise species. A short drive from Port Moresby, Varirata National Park is a good place to spot the spectacular longtailed raggiana bird of paradise. Specialist tours are available.

owners will take you to the manta rays.

Stay in a village There’s no better way to get to know a place than by staying with locals. Maira, on the island of Mioko (a two-hour trip from Kokopo), has no hotels but you can organise a homestay in one of the village’s huts. Watch the women weave, the children play and glimpse a world from another time.

7 Explore the Sepik River One of the great rivers of the world, the mysterious 1126-kilometre Sepik is home to 430,000 people who speak more than 300 languages. Running from the central Highlands to the Bismarck Sea, it contains some of PNG’s rarest plants. Explore spirit houses, meet men with crocodile skin and discover artworks such as wood carving and clay pottery. Tour vessels range from dugout motor canoes to adventure cruises such as Sepik Spirit and True North (pictured above).


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Swim with manta rays at Gona Bara Bara The northern beaches of the small island of Gona Bara Bara are where the giant reef manta rays go for a good clean. Here the gentle giants hang around as tiny fish gather on them to get rid of their parasites. Book on a boat or go with a dive company. Stay at nearby Doini Island, from where the resort


Sundowner on a small island Fatboys Resort – named after a Dickens character – is the best place to recharge your batteries in the Solomon Islands. Unpack your bags, slip into something comfortable and stroll along the timber jetty to the Fatboys restaurant, straddling the clear reef waters. Order a sundowner and tune into island life. They’ll also run you out to a small sandy island for evening drinks. And there’s quality surf nearby.








The only hotel connected to a large upmarket shopping centre.

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Largest resort swimming pool and gym. Six food and beverage outlets. Safe and secure. Call on +675 302 8888 for bookings



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Visit war history World War 2 sites around Honiara are a big tourist attraction. The Guadalcanal American Memorial tells the story of the six-month bloody campaign in the Solomon Islands. Vilu War Museum has old artillery, Japanese field guns and US aircraft including a Wildcat fighter. Visit the Australian, Japanese, Fijian and New Zealand memorials.


MICRONESIA Explore Nan Madol ruins Micronesia’s Nan Madol ruined city near Pohnpei, dubbed the Venice of the Pacific and the eighth wonder of the world, is an engineering marvel. Covering 92 human-made islands and linked by canals, the megalithic structures were built from the 13th and 17th century by people from the mysterious Saudeleur Dynasty. The World


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Heritage site is often compared to Angkor Wat or Stonehenge, and it’s still a puzzle how the huge rocks that form the fallen temples and ancient tombs were transported. Swim under a waterfall Kepirohi Waterfall in Pohnpei is one of the most spectacular in Micronesia. The waters tumble down 20 metres over basalt rocks to a large plunge pool, perfect for swimming. Other falls to visit include Sahwarlap and Sahwartik, and Liduduhniap twin waterfalls.


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Surf at P-Pass Serious surfers travel to Pohnpei for one of the world’s best righthand waves at P-Pass (Palikir Pass). Similar to Fiji or Tahiti, the area is noted for its breaking pipe-waves on fringing reefs. The main season runs from September to May and access is by boat.


Make friends with the jellyfish After being closed for two years, Palau’s Jellyfish Lake reopened earlier this year. Experts say the golden jellyfish have regenerated. The lake is home to millions of non-stinging golden jellyfish and visitors can swim among the fragile creatures with a certified tour guide.


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Ride the Star Ferry While there are some fantastic cruises of Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour, one of the most economical and best loved trips is on the historic Star Ferry, which links Central on Hong Kong Island to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The 10-minute crossing is best at twilight to see the city’s jaw-dropping skyline and the Symphony of Lights show – make sure you sit on the upper deck.

Alex Croft’s mural of old townhouses on Hollywood Road’s G.O.D. store is an Instagrammers’ favourite.

Peek at the Peak Victoria Peak, the highest point on Hong Kong Island, offers spellbinding views of one of the most densely populated cities in the world. Take the Peak Tram, which has been trundling the rails since 1888, to the top. The tram is currently being upgraded and services will be suspended at times during 2019-2020. An alternative is to take the Number 15 double-decker bus, an entertaining ride around hairpin bends.


Eat like a local Enjoy a taste of the real Hong Kong in the old haberdashery district of Sham Shui Po. The original Michelin-star Tim Ho Wan started on Fuk Wing Street. Join


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one of the excellent Hong Kong Foodie Tours to sample milk tea, rice rolls, tofu dessert, pork dumplings and egg noodles. Party at the Dragon Festival The Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival attracts thousands of visitors with its colourful races. For three days, teams from around the world race the famous boats with their carved and painted dragon heads and tails. The Street Food Gala and Artisanal Market are held at the same time. The next one is in June 2020.


Take a selfie with street art Soho’s streets provide canvases for some great street art. Klook’s one-hour tour helps unearth some interesting gems and the stories behind them.



Pedal through Intramuros Cycle through Manila’s historic streets on a handcrafted bamboo bike. Intramuros, the Walled City, was the centre of Spanish colonial rule during the 16th–century and Fort Santiago, Rizal Shrine and San Agustin church are highlights. Manila is not easy to explore but Intramuros Bambike Tour will steer you in the right direction.


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Envy Imelda’s shoes The story of Imelda Marcos, the disgraced former first lady of the Philippines, continues to fascinate and her legendary collection of shoes epitomises the opulence she enjoyed during her regime. She owned 1000 pairs of designer shoes and the museum, in Manila’s shoe district, has about 750 pairs on display.


Taste the best Filipino food Chef Jordy Navarra’s awardwinning Toyo Eatery has been changing people’s concept of Filipino food. Bahay Kubo, his signature dish, inspired by a Tagalog folk song, combines 18 vegetables in an unconventional salad. The eatery’s number 43 in the 50 Best Restaurants in Asia 2019 list.


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Walk the Supertree skyway A walk along the 128-metre long, 22-metre high suspended skyway between Singapore’s Supertrees at sunset is a knockout experience. These 9–16 storey structures, full of plants, generate solar power and collect rainwater. Enjoy the light show and stunning views of the bay.


Breakfast with the orangutans Start the day with a buffet breakfast at Singapore Zoo’s Ah Meng restaurant. As you eat, you meet the famous orangutans who are also having breakfast. Tea is one of their favourite drinks. Singapore Zoo, one of the first open-air zoos, has a successful breeding program for the primates. Bookings essential.


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CAIRNS Snorkel the Great Barrier Reef Cairns offers easy access to the Great Barrier Reef, one of the world’s great natural wonders. Snorkel, dive, paddle or view the marine life from a glass-bottomed boat. Sign up for a tour with a marine biologist who can share specialised knowledge of the coral and reef fish.

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Check out a food festival This food-loving city goes all out for the Singapore Food Festival every July. The 50 Cents Fest is one of the highlights, with hokkien dishes on sale in Chinatown from as little as 50 cents. Don’t miss the Little India events.


Go to hawker heaven Singapore’s hawker centres, known for their delicious low-cost dishes, had a starring role in the movie Crazy Rich Asians. Favourite places to eat include Maxwell Food Centre in Chinatown where Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall, made famous by Gordon Ramsay, has queues at rush hour. Also try Old Airport Road Food Centre and Tekka Centre.


Visit Sands SkyPark Singapore’s skyline was changed forever by the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Day and night, the hotel, with its three 57-storey towers topped by a 1.2-hectare sky garden structure, is a surreal sight. If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can still visit the SkyPark and infinity pool.


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Watch the sun rise from a hot-air balloon Hot-air ballooning over the Atherton Tablelands is an unforgettable experience. The balloons are launched before dawn when the atmosphere is most stable. Watch the sunrise as you drift over magical bushlands, creeks and farms while the wildlife wakes up below.


Taste the best chilli crab Singapore’s much-loved dish, chilli crab – typically mud crabs stirfried in sour-sweet tomato chilli sauce – was invented by Madam Cher Yam Tian in 1956. Chef Hooi Kok Wah of Dragon Phoenix added sambal in 1963 to create this unofficial national dish. Use your fingers to open and soak up the sauce with steam buns. Popular restaurants include Jumbo Seafood, Long Beach Seafood and No Signboard Seafood restaurant.

Glide over the rainforest The Skyrail–Kuranda Railway combo is one of the best ways to experience the rainforest. Glassfloor gondolas glide along for 7.5 kilometres, swooping above the World Heritage tropical rainforest. Stop at Red Peak and Barron Falls. There’s time to explore Kuranda before returning by scenic 1.5-hour railway.



Cruise the Brisbane River The Brisbane River meanders in huge loops through the city. Hop on a CityCat ferry and zip along from St Lucia to Hamilton, taking in the river views. If you want something more historical, hop aboard the Kookaburra Queen, an old paddle-wheeler, and sail in style past the Botanic Gardens, Kangaroo Point Cliffs and South Bank.


Play the didgeridoo Learn about Australian indigenous culture at the Tjapukai Aboriginal cultural park and discover how to play the didgeridoo. The park celebrates the history of the world’s oldest living culture, which is more than 40,000 years old, by offering performances, dance, arts and food.


Taste native ingredients On the waterfront, Ochre is one of the most original dining experiences in Cairns. For 25 years, chef Craig Squire has focused on sustainable regional and native Australian cuisine. Try grilled kangaroo sirloin with quandong chilli glaze, emu wonton, and salt and native pepper leaf prawn and crocodile.

Enjoy a culture fix South Bank’s Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) is a cutting-edge museum, known for its collection of Asian and Pacific art. Next door is the Queensland Art Gallery, also worth a visit.



Abseil a bridge The Story Bridge Adventure Climb is a 1.5–2 hour easy climb up to the bridge’s 80-metre summit. Suitable for ages six and up. The more adventurous might prefer the three-hour climb-and-abseil challenge.


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Climb an icon The best view of the city is from the top of Sydney Harbour Bridge. The 3.5-hour Bridge Climb takes fit participants along catwalks under the road, up four ladders and then to the outer arch to the top of the bridge. The Bridge Climb sampler is 1.5 hours and goes along the inner arch, halfway to the summit. Bookings essential.

41 Watch cricket at the Gabba For a truly Australian experience, go to a game at the Gabba, one of the most famous cricket grounds in Australia. The 123-year-old venue holds about 42,000 and cricket Tests have been held there since the 1930s. Tours on Wednesdays at 11am. Bookings essential.


Cuddle a koala The Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, the world’s largest and oldest koala sanctuary, is home to about 130 koalas. Most were born there and are used to interacting with humans. Also see platypus, dingos, kangaroos and turtles. About 12 kilometres from Brisbane city.


Go backstage at Sydney Opera House Learn the secrets of the stars at this behind-the-scenes tour of Sydney Opera House. Start at 7am, explore the five venues and hear stories about famous performers. The 2.5-hour tour includes breakfast in the Green Room. Bookings essential.


Sample new fusion food Two of Australia’s top young chefs joined forces to open Chuuka at Jones Bay Wharf in July. Chase Kojima and Victor Liong offer a fusion of their Japanese and Chinese cuisines. The name


Chuuka refers to Chinese dishes introduced to Japan in the 19th century. The outdoor bar has views of Sydney Harbour. Hike through the bush Freeland Hiking offers tours, ranging from a one-night Blue Mountains hike to a five-day Budawang’s circuit hike, in some of NSW’s most isolated national parks. Transport, tents, backpacks, sleeping bags and food are provided.


Sleep with the animals With a knockout harbourside location, Taronga Zoo is one of the best places to sleep over in Sydney. The Roar and Snore experience allows visitors to stay at the zoo and enjoy special after-hours close encounters with the animals. Opening in November, the Wildlife Retreat will have five new sustainable eco pods.




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Telephone: (677) 24007 Facsimilie: (677) 24010 Email: Website:

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PO Box 461 Charles Able Highway Milne Bay Milne Bay Province Ph: 641 0142 Fax: 641 0172


PO Box 57 Kimbe West New Britain Province Ph: 983 5366 Fax: 983 5395

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Fly in a chopper to Castaway Island Arrive in style to Fiji’s Castaway Island by hitching a ride on a helicopter. Outrigger Resort is offering a Flyaway to Castaway special for stays of five or more nights. The scenic 15-minute chopper ride from Nadi airport flies over the Mamanuca Islands.



Dive at the Great Astrolabe Reef One of the best diving locations in Fiji, this is the world’s fourthlargest barrier reef. Divers can expect to see sharks, manta rays, turtles and hammerheads. The reef comprises hard and soft coral with more than 60 dive sites. Kadavu is one of the least visited islands and its clear water is good for snorkelling. Other popular dive spots include Barefoot Manta Island, Naviti Island and Rainbow Reef.


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Admire the vine jumpers Imagine jumping off a 30-metrehigh wooden tower with only two vines around your legs! The Nagol land-diving festival on Vanuatu’s Pentecost Island, held every April and May, is said to have inspired bungee jumping. The thrillseeking villagers aim to fall as close to the ground as possible to appease the gods.

49 Be an eco-warrior Guests at Kokomo Private Island luxury resort (pictured top and above) can take part in coral planting to keep the nearby reef healthy. The Kokomo Coral Restoration Project, led by resident marine biologist Cliona O’Flaherty, is cultivating coral in a nursery before replanting on the reef. She is also working to protect manta rays and has data on more than 40 of the animals. Sustainability is an important focus of the resort, which bottles its own water and distributes it in glass bottles.


Swim in a blue hole Some of the best blue holes are on Espiritu Santo. These natural springs were formed by water carving its way through limestone over millions of years. The blue holes vary from 3–30 metres and are a stunning geographical phenomenon.




monsters Chris Peel joins a river expedition in search of the legendary Papuan black bass.


A fish in hand ... a black bass caught during the expedition.

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n early 2018, I started hearing stories about a shadowy beast; a fish that breaks lures and can pull boats around when hooked. The fabled fish is the Papuan black bass and it has attracted anglers to Papua New Guinea from all over the world.

our country

So imagine my excitement earlier this year when the skipper of the PNG Explorer, Andrew Rigby, invited me to explore the wild rivers of New Britain. Rigby has spent 13 years at the helm of the PNG Explorer and is known world wide for pioneering and finding many of PNG’s best surfing breaks.

He mapped out his river plan to me (which he is keen to keep secret) under the dim light of the chart table, and I instantly felt the rush that an expedition into the unknown in PNG brings. Goodbye mobile phone reception and hello adventure. I wake on the first morning on the boat to the sound of the

espresso machine and my two new friends, Beau Wilkenson and Jackson Atkins, readying their fishing gear. Rigby is on the back deck, talking with three elders who appear to be landowners in the area. I think they are just as surprised to see us as we are to see them in a place so remote.

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traveller Chasing monsters

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On deck ... the expedition’s deck boss, Pen Pen, rigs up some trolling gear while the PNG Explorer makes its way to the next fishing destination.

We are all in disbelief. After just five minutes of fishing, he has landed a 13.1-kilogram black bass.

We are anchored where the sea meets a gigantic river system. From a distance, it looks like the opening scene to Jurassic Park, and once we enter it feels like a whole new world. Crocodiles and a couple of hornbills are some of the first creatures to greet us. After a few minutes the first line is cast with our surface lures, then a second and a third. Then Atkins casts over to a small branch sticking out of the water.

He flicks the rod a couple of times and suddenly it bends and he is almost pulled out of the boat. He manages to hold on to the line and after a few minutes reels in the fish. Screams of joy come as this monster is netted. We are all in disbelief. After just five minutes of fishing, he has landed a 13.1-kilogram black bass. While we are quickly removing hooks and getting a photo before releasing this beautiful fish back to

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where it belongs, Wilkenson’s lure is hit with what ends up being another black bass. This one comes in at 11.7 kilograms. We move on, and 15 minutes up the river we are greeted with the rare sight of spot tail bass schooling under snags. With the first cast, Wilkenson hooks a fish, then Atkins hooks another.

Wilkenson yells to me to put my camera down and to throw in a line. The camera goes down and the line goes out. We all share our first spot tail bass together with a triple-hook up. They’re not huge but make for a great fight. The day goes on and more fish are caught: mangrove jack, giant trevally and a few more big black bass.

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EastWest Transport (EWT) is one of Papua New Guinea’s largest multifaceted transport and logistics companies. Based in Port Moresby, with a significant presence in Lae, Wewak, Madang, Rabaul, Kavieng, Kimbe and Alotau. EWT operates across a wide spectrum of transportrelated activities including bulk fuel, containerised freight, break bulk cargo and offers depot services such as equipment hire, warehousing and yard storage. service in Lae and Port Moresby. The company makes use of its close relationships with sister companies project solutions for the mining, oil and gas sectors.


EastWest Transport


Phone: 324 9600 Phone: 472 7744

Email: Email:

traveller Chasing monsters

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Home ground ... a crocodile keeps a wary eye on the anglers (top); Jackson Atkins with his first Papuan black bass (above). It was released to fight another day, shortly after the photo was taken.

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traveller Chasing monsters

Over the next few days, each river we visit seems to get better than the last. For the last river on our exploration list we hold high hopes of finding the mega fish we have been looking for. Shaun Keane, from Nusa Island Retreat in Kavieng, joins our boat on the day we visit this river. He has never fished for black bass before and is along for the ride. Atkins is a seasoned angler and

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lends Keane a hand and gives him a few tips on what to do. We catch a lot more black bass and spot tail during the morning, but nothing bigger than what we have already bagged. That’s until Keane’s reel goes off. He is holding on for his life, trying to turn the fish before it heads into the snag. The fish is turned and slowly brought to the boat.

What lies beneath ... a quiet jungle river provides black bass habitat (above); on the hunt for fish (above right); Beau Wilkenson with a spot tail (below).

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As soon as we see this monster everyone knows it is the fish we have been hoping for. Its teeth are huge, the head is wide and eyes are looking directly at us. We all look on in anticipation at the weight reading.

Welcoming party ... curious locals greet the anglers (above); a bird’s-eye view of one of the rivers visited (right); tools of the trade (far right).

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We invite you to walk the famous Kokoda Track with us. It is such a beautiful trek, combine the WWII history, the culture, it is the whole package. There are many moments of hilarious fun and many moments of sadness and tears listening to the WWII history and what the young diggers went through. It is an emotional roller coaster. The history is narrated by our WWII historian guides who are passionate that it is told correctly. They take you on the journey.

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traveller Chasing monsters

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It comes in at 16.3 kilograms. Not bad for Keane’s first black bass. Rigby’s company, PNG Surfaris, has just opened up this exclusive sports fishing expedition to the public for a limited four trips a year.

NEED TO KNOW FISHING THERE PNG Surfaris six-day/seven-n fishing expeditions start from about PGK19,000 ight include return private charter flights from Port and Moresby to Surumi. MORE INFORMATION,

September – October 2019



Country guide:


VANUATU Vanuatu comprises 83 islands, a wonderland of waterfalls, volcanoes, jungles and white-sand beaches, where visitors are treated to excellent snorkelling and diving, authentic local performances and luxury resorts. Bronwen Gora goes island hopping.

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ocated in the Pacific Ocean, a three-hour flight from Port Moresby, Vanuatu is a popular tropical holiday destination, renowned for its spectacular snorkelling and diving experiences. Vanuatu – which means ‘the land that has always existed’ – comprises 83 islands, which form a Y-shaped archipelago stretching about 800 kilometres. The main islands are Espiritu Santo, Efate (location of the capital Port Vila and the country’s major international airport), Tanna and Pentecost (site of the Pentecost jump ritual, pentecost-island-land-diving.php). Inspiration for the Hollywood movie South Pacific came from Espiritu Santo, which is Vanuatu’s largest and oldest island. It has the highest population of all Vanuatu’s islands. It is blessed with immense natural beauty and as such is the location of Vanuatu’s greatest number of natural sights. Vanuatu’s subtropical climate means there is no truly bad time to visit. The islands have almost endless sunny days. Summer (November to March) averages 28° C and winter (April to September) about 23° C.

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GETTING AROUND The capital, Port Vila, is a small city and, while there is no public transport, the network of private buses and taxis is plentiful and convenient. The buses, denoted by a ‘B’ on the number plate, can be flagged down anywhere. Travelling between islands is primarily via domestic airline. Charter flights are also available. Two ferry boats – Vanuatu Ferry (contact the main office in Port Vila on Au Bon Marche 2) and Big Sista ( big-sista-company) operate regularly between Port Vila and Espiritu Santo.

Havannah Bay, located half an hour north of Port Vila. Swim in Espiritu Santo’s famous Blue Holes ( about-the-blue-hole.html), natural freshwater pools bubbling up through limestone. In fact, the east

coast of Espiritu Santo features more of these blue holes than anywhere else in the world. For an even more exotic experience, take a short boat ride off Espiritu Santo’s coast to Malo Island to visit its own stunning blue hole

Fun in the sun ... (clockwise from oppposite page) the Blue Lagoon; Havannah Bay; Efate; Mele Cascades.

Take the worry out of finding staff and office accommodation in Port Moresby

SIGHTS The sparkling clear waters of Efate Island’s Blue Lagoon, a one-hour drive from Port Vila, make for one of Vanuatu’s most popular day trips. The bright blue swimming hole is surrounded by lush gardens complete with a rope swing. Mele Cascades on Efate’s eastern side is another must-see, a stunning waterfall destination usually packaged into half-day tours, with a stop at a coffee plantation first. Snorkelling in Vanuatu is spectacular, the warm shallow waters surrounding the islands teeming with vibrant corals. Take a tour with Sailaway Cruises ( to one of the best snorkelling spots,

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September – October 2019


traveller Country guide: Vanuatu ( Champagne Beach is covered in such fine white sand it has become Vanuatu’s most famous shoreline strip ( VANUATU SPECIAL Scuba diving and volcanoes top the list of special things to see and do. Many of the world’s most accessible, active and visually stunning volcanoes are found within the archipelago. Make a beeline for Ambrym Island ( to see the twin volcanic peaks, Mount Marum and Mount Benbow. Getting up close and personal, though, is only for the adventurous, as the crater hike is a 10–12 hour round trip.

Taking the plunge … diving the SS President Coolidge (above); a land diver at Pentecost Island (right).

Tanna Island, a quick flight from Port Vila, is home to the more easily accessed volcano Mount Yasur. It’s fully active, so take the

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short trek to the edge of the crater to see the view of bubbling lava. Scuba diving here is second to none thanks to not only the natural corals but also a plethora of World War 2 wrecks, including the virtually intact and easily accessible SS President Coolidge troop carrier. Other legendary sites are Million Dollar Point where tonnes of US army equipment was dumped at war’s end, and, for sea life, Chails Reef and Tutuba Point ( scuba-diving). Jungle-inspired tours are also a big drawcard in Vanuatu. Efatebased company Eden on the River ( can fill your entire day with jungle-driven activity, from zip-lining through the tree-tops and scrambling over

suspension bridges to more sedate strolls through tropical gardens. CULTURE VULTURE Vanuatu has over 100 cultures and languages and still celebrates its ancient ways of living. The best way to receive an overview of



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traveller Country guide: Vanuatu

Feeling the heat … Mount Yasur volcano (above); good times at Port Vila market (right).

the country’s vast range of customs and traditions is to visit the Vanuatu Cultural Centre (

in Port Vila, before taking a tour to a village. Local traditions are showcased for visitors in these tours, some of the best being those to see custom dances. Many dances, like the Banks and Torres Islands snake dance, are unique to the country’s particular islands. One of the most authentic experiences involves travelling to Rah Island to see the traditional women’s dance. Women of all ages dressed in kastom woven attire, accompanied by a string band, perform a mesmerising show. Find out more by emailing RETAIL THERAPY Port Vila has the country’s the best shopping and local markets. It is also Vanuatu’s only duty-free port

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and has a well-stocked general supermarket, Au Bon Marche. Locally made wares and wonderfully fresh food are found at Port Vila’s markets, while finer authentic crafts, handcrafted goods, woven baskets, carved wooden toys, trinkets and

beautifully painted artwork can be found at the Haos Blong Handicraft markets along the seafront. Hebrida Market Place specialises in hand-painted clothing. Markets are closed on Sundays, and most businesses close between 11.30am and 1.30pm daily.


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Years in Papua

w e N

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traveller Country guide: Vanuatu PILLOW TALK Vanuatu has a range of accommodation designed for all budgets, including beach bungalows, boutique adults-only luxury resorts and family friendly resorts such as the Warwick Le Lagon ( Port Vila’s quality tourist hotels include Holiday Inn Resort (, which has the added attraction of overwater villas, while the Ramada Resort (ramadaresort.

our OUR region is perfect for business travellers. For luxury and romance, The Havannah ( on the west coast of Efate Island is popular with couples. Or for eco-luxe try Ratua Island Resort & Spa ( on Santo Island. The outer islands offer chances to stay in rustic bungalows, simple accommodation known to be both clean and comfortable, and with a tariff usually including a home-cooked breakfast and dinner.

EATS Fresh food from the market is fabulous, and be sure to try the local snapper, known as poulet (chicken fish). Most travellers eat at their resorts, which have high quality menus. When variety is called for, among Port Vila’s more popular restaurants are Stonegrill (, where diners cook their own meat on a hot stone, and the Blue Marlin Club (



vanuatu POPULATION: 276,000 LANGUAGE: English, French and Bislama

TAXI FROM AIRPORT: Bauerfield International Airport to Port Vila CBD 1000-2000 VUV (about $US9–$16)

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traveller Country guide: Vanuatu WATERING HOLES For local flavour, the first stop must be the Warhorse Saloon (, a restaurant and sports bar on Port Vila’s wharf road with karaoke on Thursday nights. For a quiet or romantic cocktail by the bay, a lovely spot is the Banyan Bar, right on the sand, located at the hotel and restaurant Chantilly’s On The Bay (chantillysonthebay. com/en-gb).

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Santa Maria Espiritu Santo

Port Moresby

Maewo Ambae Pentecost Ambrym




Km 200

vanuatu Efate Port Vila






a Tanna

Tropical ... the Warwick Le Lagon (opposite page); Eton Beach, Efate (right).

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Port Vila weekly. See

September – October 2019



the world


travelling Whether your passport is full of stamps or waiting for its first, you’ll get the most out of your next international holiday with the help of these travel tips by Jo McCauley. Use flight comparison sites For the most options and often the best fares, use flight comparison websites, but also double-check fares directly with the airline. You can sometimes save on flights when you book directly and cut out the middleman. Use a seat-guide app Not all plane seats are equal, but with a guide like you can find out all the pros and cons of each seat before you book.



Veer to the left It’s been shown that most people, being right handed, tend to turn to the right first, so do the opposite. Go to the left and you may be able to move faster through airport security and customs. Save a few Google maps directly to your phone When you first arrive in a new country, you may not be able to connect to Wi-Fi or data right away. A few key maps downloaded to



your phone can help you get to your hotel. Bring a portable charger Arrive at the airport with a fully loaded portable charger and plug it in whenever possible. That way, you can easily resuscitate your phone when it runs out of power. Tie a ribbon on it Make luggage identification easier by tying a bright ribbon or colourful luggage strap on your bags so you can spot them easily. Bring an empty water bottle Instead of buying bottled water at the airport, bring your own reusable water bottle and fill it up after you pass through security. Take photos of your luggage Take photos of your checked luggage before you leave. If you lose your luggage, you can show the pictures to airport staff. Get fit to fly Travelling can be stressful. Handle the stress better by exercising before you fly. The endorphins released can improve your mood. Pack personal essentials in your cabin luggage Be prepared for the possibility you could be separated from your checked luggage by packing spare socks, underwear, essential medications and basic toiletries in your cabin bag. Pack a sarong It’s not just for the beach anymore. It can serve as a blanket at the airport or a way to cover your shoulders at a religious site. Bag your shoes Keep the rest of your packed items clean by putting your shoes in grocery bags before you pack them.



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heavy items close 13Pack to the wheels Reduce wrinkles and keep your luggage from toppling over by packing your heaviest items close to the wheels. Put all your tech stuff in one bag Cords, chargers, devices, camera accessories and external drives: all of them can create a mess. Tame them by storing in one zippable bag. Download Google Translate With the Google Translate app, you can hold your phone’s camera up to any text, including street signs, and the app will translate it. Change money ahead of time Avoid purchasing foreign currency at the airport. Order currency in advance to get the best deal. Be aware of pickpocketing Carry a dummy wallet with you. Keep your real wallet close to your body (such as in an inside jacket pocket) and leave the dummy wallet in a back pocket. Prepare to communicate Download Viber, WhatsApp and Skype before you depart. Between these three apps, you should be able to communicate over Wi-Fi with friends and family back home. Split up your valuables Don’t carry all your valuables, such as passport, phone, cash and credit cards, in one place. Split them between the safe at your accommodation and your day bag and leave some emergency cash hidden in your accommodation. Email yourself copies of your documents Take photos of your passport, visa, itinerary, flight tickets, hotel confirmations, tour tickets and any other important documents, and email them to yourself.


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*Jo McCauley is chief customer officer of Southern Cross Travel Insurance.

66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

International sites available for:

#VisitPNG #PNGTourism

+675 320 0211


+675 320 0223



our region



68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine


WHERE Nadi International Airport is on the west coast of Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu and lies in the shadow of the Sabeto mountain range to the north. Nadi Airport is almost 200 kilometres from the nation’s capital, Suva.

our region

bus pick-up points is much welcomed during monsoon season. The domestic terminal is located a short walk away from its flashy international terminal sibling.


TERMINALS A modern international terminal opened in mid-2017 after a multi-million dollar makeover. Upgrades included self-check in kiosks, expanded immigration departure and arrivals areas with new immigration counters, an extra baggage carousel in the arrivals area, a new children’s play area, airline lounges and a complete overhaul of an overworked air-conditioning system. A smokers’ lounge and prayer room are new additions, while new duty-free shopping outlets have been added. Outside, a covered walkway between the terminal and

LOUNGE ACCESS Fiji Airways opened a new lounge in 2017. A living wall of green plants softens the modern design and furnishings with understated elegance. Located airside on the ground floor, the lounge has direct access to Spa @ The Gate for massage and spa treatments while awaiting your departure. It’s available to Air Niugini pssengers for a payment of FJD99 (about PGK155). DISTANCE TO CBD Downtown Nadi is about five kilometres from the airport. With the main road between the two seemingly in a permanent state of maintenance, traffic delays are not uncommon. Port Denarau Marina, the main departure point for the Yasawa and Mamanuca islands, is accessible via the same route. Domestic flights connect Nadi with Suva.

TAXIS & HIRE CARS Fiji’s taxi system can be unpredictable (meters are officially mandatory but not always in use) but is overall safe, friendly and reasonably priced. A taxi rank is located outside the arrivals hall. All the major car hire companies are represented, along with a couple of local operators such as Bula, Carpenters and Satellite Rentals. OTHER TRANSPORT Public bus services by Pacific Express depart from Nadi to the Pacific Coast, Navua, Sigatoka, Suva and Lautoka. WI-FI Free Wi-Fi is available for up to 30 minutes throughout the terminal, with inexpensive plans available to purchase for longer layovers. WHAT ELSE In the 2018 Skytrax World Airport Awards, Nadi International Airport was named as one of the 10 most-improved airports in the world. FAVOURITE CORNER A duo of ukulele strumming Fijian gentlemen wearing sulus (traditional male wraparound skirts) and colourful bula shirts greet new arrivals. Walking into the customs hall and hearing those tinny tunes and melodic harmonies is a wonderful introduction to a country that is known for the

warmth and friendliness of its people, starting at the airport. SHOPS With the terminal upgrade came new shopping options, although the variety is still limited in terms of international airport standards. Two major duty-free shops dominate and are rounded out by a handful of boutiques. CLOSEST HOTELS Fiji Gateway Hotel is located at the entrance to the airport precinct.

Five-star resort hotels line the landscaped beach on nearby Denarau Island, about 20 minutes from the airport. FOOD & DRINK Airside, a food court is bathed in natural light from a wall of glass overlooking the runway, while a cafe is accessible for all in the check-in area before the immigration checkpoint.

Air Niugini flies from

Port Moresby to Nadi twice weekly. See

September – October 2019



our region BY PENNY WATSON

INTERNATIONAL REVIEW: ROSEWOOD, HONG KONG WHO STAYS? High-end travellers, special occasion guests, business travellers with mega expense accounts. HOW BIG? 413 keys COST From $HK4800 (about PGK2100) + 10 per cent surcharge. CHECK IN 2pm CHECK out Midday Highlights Big rooms with views stretching from Causeway Bay across Victoria Harbour to East Tsim Sha Tsui, polished and attentive staff, impeccable art, design and luxury detail. NEARBY It’s right on Victoria Harbour, which is strolling distance along the waterfront Avenue of Stars to the Star Ferry terminal. New K11 Musea, a world-class art and culture-led retail destination, is next door and opens in September. Wi-Fi: Fee for Wi-Fi: TV: Air conditioners in room: Ceiling fan in room: Business centre: Gym: Room service: Swimming pool: Free airport transfers: Hotel arranges tours: Breakfast included in room charge:

70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine


The new hotel, in Tsim Sha Tsui on Hong Kong’s Kowloon side, is as close as it gets to Victoria Harbour with only the Avenue of Stars overwater promenade sitting between the 65-storey building and the water.

the place

It has ‘Hong Kong’s best hotel’ written all over it and probably will for some time. Owned and developed by generations of the Cheng family, this opulent hotel has been designed with legacy and longevity in mind. Quality fittings, attention to detail, fastidious taste and a fit-out that feels more like a contemporary gallery than a hotel imbues the place with aesthetic opulence.


There are four room categories, all generously proportioned at 53 square metres, and five suite categories, which range from 118 to 174 square metres. Choose from north-facing Kowloon Peak views or, for more coin, be gobsmacked by south-facing Victoria Harbour and neon-lit city skyline scenery. All rooms and suites have curated collections of books, art, furniture and fittings, gourmet mini-bars, twin marble bathrooms and basins, and walk-in

robes. The lifts on each floor open onto large communal salons. Pour yourself a drink, relax in a tub chair, flick through a magazine, talk to other guests.


The Legacy House is an informal but high-end Chinese restaurant on the fifth floor with a menu inspired by the cuisine of rural Shunde in Guangdong Province, known as the cradle of Cantonese cuisine. Sup on exquisite traditional dishes such as stir-fried noodle made from rolled fish with bean sprouts and mushroom, or opt for crowd favourites such as Peking duck, which is carved at the table. On the lobby level, Holt’s Cafe is a fabulous eatery and tearoom modelled on the grand cafes of Europe. The Butterfly Room hosts exquisite afternoon teas while the Darkside bar has daily jazz muso sessions, whiskey and cigar collections and a decadent chocolate bar.


“There is so much detail and care put into every private and public space in the hotel. The pool, gym, club house are all extremely sumptuous with great views.” – TripAdvisor



PNG REVIEW: CROSSROADS HOTEL, LAE Awilunga Estate, 9 Mile, Lae, Tel. +675 475 1111; WHO STAYS? It attracts a wide range of clientele, from business travellers to tourists, groups and long-stay guests. HOW BIG? 42 double rooms, 14 fourbedroom serviced apartments and a sixbedroom house. COST Standard rooms from PGK375 per night. CHECK IN 3pm CHECK out 10am Highlights Surely Lae’s best-value hotel, with reliable service, a wide range of facilities and an attractive setting. NEARBY Lae’s attractions include a botanical garden, a famous war cemetery and the Rainforest Habitat. Wi-Fi: TV: Air conditioners in room: Ceiling fan in room: Business centre: Gym: Room service: Swimming pool: Free airport transfers: Hotel arranges tours: Breakfast included in room charge:


About 15 minutes from the city centre, on the way to Lae’s Nadzab Airport (24 kilometres).

the place

Located in a lush and tranquil park-like setting, this privately owned (by the Hornibrook group) property offers comfortable and competitivelypriced regular hotel rooms as well as larger options for groups or longer stays. The Sunset Bar, located next to the large Infinity pool, is also is a popular meeting spot. A decent restaurant that offers ‘something for everyone’ and a surprisingly spacious gym round out the facilities.


The standard hotel rooms (some with pool views) are functional in design with ensuite bathroom, air conditioning, fridge, Nespresso machine, flatscreen TV and Wi-Fi.


The first-floor Mountain View Restaurant has plenty of standard international fare

72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

(pasta, grill) and a variety of Asian choices. Its signature dishes are Japanese, ranging from sushi/sashimi platters to rice bowls and udon noodles. Breakfast is also served here from 5am. My only quibble was the lack of an espresso machine, but plunger or Nespresso coffee is readily available. The same menu is also available at the lively poolside bar, where the pizzas are a popular choice.


“It is a very safe and well presented hotel with top security and friendly staff.” – TripAdvisor “We stayed at the Crossroads Hotel for a week and found all the staff to be very friendly and helpful, the room was very clean and tidy and we had a lovely view of the pool and mountain ranges to wake up to.” – TripAdvisor “Great pool. Super clean. Very friendly and helpful staff. Beautiful landscaping and scenery.” –


Crown Hotel Port Moresby is a hilltop haven in the centre of Papua New Guinea’s CBD, offering panoramic views of the Coral Sea, Ela Beach, APEC Haus & Fairfax Harbour. Gaze at the ocean from our Heritage bar or soak in the outdoor pool. The Rapala restaurant’s new menu is complemented by a fine wine list while our casual Pondo Tavern serves comfort food on its deck. Exercise when you want in our 24-hour Fitness Centre or get to work using wireless Internet provided complimentary in the hotel. We’ll help you dive the reefs off Loloata Island and our sumptuous beds are a well-earned reward after hiking the Kokoda Trail. Whether you’re with us for 2 nights or 2 months, you’ll feel safe, secure and right at home and its only 12km from Jacksons International and Domestic Airport. It’s a new name, but our team hasn’t changed as you’ll still receive the same great customer service, range of products and experience.

T +675 309 3000 OR +675 7373 0400











With a spectacular location overlooking Matupit Harbour and the nearby town of Rabaul on the island of New Britain, this is Papua New Guinea’s most active volcano, which last erupted on August 29, 2014. The volcano’s most infamous eruption happened 20 years earlier, on September 19, 1994, when it buried most of Rabaul. Getting close to Tavurvur is not for the faint hearted – expect to hear and feel it rumbling, and see it steaming or billowing clouds of noxious smoke into the sky.

Set on the Indonesian island of Java in Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, this still occasionally erupting volcano is best seen at sunrise from the viewpoint at Mount Penanjakan. Jeeps and motorbikes drop daring travellers at the entrance; from there it’s about a one-hour walk (in the dark, if you want to see the sunrise) to the crater. Watching the sun peek over the horizon as you sit at 2392 metres above sea level, feeling the volcano rumbling beneath you, is a powerful reminder that we’re all living at the mercy of the planet.

SOMETHING SPECIAL Just a few hundred metres from the base you’ll find the bubbling Rababa hot springs, set on a black sand beach where the scent of sulphur hangs in the air. The springs are too hot for a dip, but you will find cute kids there selling megapode eggs, which they boil in the springs and serve you as a light snack.

SOMETHING SPECIAL Visit in August, during the annual Yadnya Kasada Festival, to witness locals trekking up the volcano en masse to appease the gods by throwing vegetables, chicken and money into the crater.

Dubbed the world’s most accessible active volcano, travellers are able to walk right up to the crater of Mount Yasur on Vanuatu’s Tanna Island and look straight down at the bubbling molten lava. At night, it becomes a terrifying yet mesmerising natural fireworks display. The 361-metre volcano has been erupting since Captain James Cook was lured ashore by its glow in 1774, and is regarded as sacred by locals, with the word ‘Yasur’ meaning ‘god’ in the local language. Many locals believe that a mysterious man-god named John Frum (some say he’s a white American serviceman) lives inside the volcano, waiting to be reborn and shower them with riches.

HOW TO EXPERIENCE IT Hotels will arrange tours. Stay either in Kokopo, in the capital of East New Britain, and motorboat across Matupit Harbour to reach the volcano, or stay at Rabaul Hotel, one of the few buildings left standing after Tavurvur’s 1994 eruption. See

74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

HOW TO EXPERIENCE IT If you want to avoid the crowds, visit during the week, and avoid riding one of the horses on offer since many of them are mistreated.

SOMETHING SPECIAL Bizarrely, a postbox sits at the top of the volcano – the world’s only postbox on top of a volcano, in fact – so bring a postcard to send once you reach the top. HOW TO EXPERIENCE IT A one-hour drive from Tanna’s White Grass Airport, followed by a 45-minute jungle walk, will get you right up to the rim. Mount Yasur is most active in March and April, at the end of the wet season.

HILTON PORT MORESBY Welcome to Hilton Port Moresby, a bright and modern hotel in Hohola showcasing the lifestyle and heritage of Papua New Guinea. Offering five signature food and beverage outlets, convention centre, swimming pool and gym for your convenience

Book now at




time traveller Port Moresby Wharf, 1980 Papua New Guinea was a port of call for brigantine Eye of the Wind during a round-the-world voyage crewed by young people from many countries. They worked together on scientific exploration, research and community projects. They left Plymouth in the UK on October 1978 and returned to London two years later. Pictured here at an official PNG welcome for the ship are PNG Defence Force Colonel Ken Noga (left); Colonel John Blashford-Snell, who was in command of the ship; and Prime Minister Sir Michael Somare, who appears to be drinking Fanta. If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@

76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine



lifestyle, culture, sport, entertainment

drum roll S A weekend of canoes and drums at Alotau

Olga Fontanellaz dips her toes into the water at Alotau’s annual Kenu and Kundu Festival. 78 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

triped like a sea snake, black and white Lopo war canoes with sinewy paddlers are fiercely racing to the beat of drums, all competing for the glory of being the best crew. Dressed in the traditional warrior attire, the men are rippling their muscles as they paddle across the bay to shouted encouragements from the crowd.



Feeling the rhythm ... traditionally-dressed dancers beating kundu, made of wood and lizard skin, at the Kenu and Kundu Festival.

The long, narrow canoes skim over water to a distant marker and back. Paddled in unison by 20 or more men, the canoes are going at rampant speed. The sleepy coastal town of Alotau, with its surrounding lush hills and blue ocean, is a meeting place of racers and dancers, who flock from their remote island communities for the Kenu and Kundu Festival, the annual cele-

bration of traditional canoes (kenu) and drums (kundu), which were traditionally used in ceremonies and rituals. The participants, coming from as far as the Trobriand Islands and the Louisiade Archipelago, have to face rough seas and strong winds for days, even weeks, to reach the festival site.

With more than 600 islands scattered around Milne Bay Province, the canoes are an integral part of Milne Bay culture. They are the main means of transportation for the local communities living on some of the most remote islands in the world. The canoes are used to go to school, work or church, to fish and to transport garden produce. Early on the morning of the big race, a haunting sound reaches my

ears. Gathered on the beach, men and young boys in grass skirts and with proud looks are blowing conch shells and beating drums as a signal to start the race. The crowd gets bigger, and the excitement becomes more palpable when the canoes appear. Bearing high, elaborately carved and decorated prows, the canoes are the crowd favourites. September – October 2019


living Drum roll


They are the famous Lopo war canoes of the Huhu people from Maiwara and Wagawaga villages from the Milne Bay mainland. The time they were used in canoe raids

has gone and today they are used for the peaceful annual race. I marvel at the canoes, long and elegant, which go past the giant P&O cruise ship docked near the

beach with more than 2000 tourists on board. Suddenly, the canoes appear tiny. Soon, the muscled paddlers are heading to the shore, past the

cheering crowd applauding their arrival. But the race is not over. The tall and slim Gogodala men from Western Province start rowing their long, brightly painted river






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living Drum roll


The long, narrow canoes skim over water. Paddled in unison by 20 or more men, the canoes are going at rampant speed.

canoes using paddles with colourful totemic symbols. Measuring up to 20 metres, the canoes are paddled by 50 or even more men. The Gogodala, the occasional special guests of the festival, paddle their

Going with the flow ... a Lopo war canoe painted like a sea snake (opposite page); a Trobriand Islands woman in the festival spirit (left); Rabaraba dancers from Milne Bay (above).

imposingly looking canoes from a standing position. Used on the still waters of Western Province, the

river canoes are struggling with the waves, and the men barely keep themselves upright.

September – October 2019


living Drum roll


Once the race is finished, the crowd gathers around Kula trading canoes, large sea-going outriggers from the Trobriand Islands. These bright red outriggers, with a sail woven from pandanus leaves and decorated with elaborately carved splashboards, are ceremonial canoes called waga. They were built to enable travel across large distances for the Kula Ring trade, a ceremonial exchange system in the province. The exchange of Kula gifts created mutual trust and lifelong partnerships between the exchange partners. There is a saying in PNG that “once in Kula, always in Kula”. Today, most Kula Festival snapshots ... (clockwise from top) a Gogodala warrior from the Western Province; a traditional outrigger; getting set for a race; traditional clay pot making; a food offering.

trade involves vegetables, yams in particular. They are a link binding the villages. I find myself wishing I could be transported at least 50 years into the past, when these magnificent Kula canoes were common across the province. My thoughts are interrupted by the rhythmic beats of drums coming from the showground. The dancers are about to start their performance. Displaying a variety of traditional

attire, they come from across the islands, including Kiriwina, Kitava, Alcester, Misima, Rossel, Samarai, Goodenough, Fergusson and

82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Normanby. Some travel on foot for over a week to participate in the sing-sing (traditional dancing). Oblivious to the scorching sun, the bare-breasted female dancers in grass skirts move in lines or circles to the beat of drums. Known as magololo, the grass skirts made from sago leaves are the trademark of Milne Bay. Soon, the smell of grilled sausages and smoked fish guides me through a colourful display of papaya, bananas, small sweet mangoes, and ubiquitous peanuts. The tourists from a cruise ship browse through food stalls and soon they are devouring the local food. I make my way through stalls selling local art and craft and enthusiastic locals demonstrating their traditional cooking and pot making techniques. In the afternoon, when the breeze kicks up, sailing outrigger

canoes, sailau, begin their race. Moving quickly and effortlessly in the bay, with their colourful sails flying in the air, they soon become little dots on the blue horizon. Although many have sails made of canvas, nylon, plastic, or even rice bags, some sailau still fly traditional sails woven from pandanus trees profusely growing in the tropical islands. The wind picks up and the sailing canoes are now racing at full speed, their outriggers lifting ever higher out of the water. Cutting waves, the sailors are skilfully navigating among canoes. They become hardly visible on the horizon before returning to the beach greeted by their jubilant relatives and friends. The festival ends with traditional food exchange between ancient trading partners. Pigs tied to stretchers, fish attached to

CREATING WEALTH AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR PAPUA NEW GUINEA NOW AND INTO THE FUTURE OUR INVESTMENT PORTFOLIO KPHL is the State’s nominee through its subsidiary Kroton in the ExxonMobil operated PNG LNG project. KPHL’s 16.57% participating interest is the third largest share in this multi-field, multi-party integrated venture that has a development cost of over US$ 19 billion and includes a gas conditioning plant upstream in Hides; a combined 700 kilometres of on-shore and offshore pipeline and a two train LNG plant near Port Moresby. The PNG LNG Project is producing over 8 million tonnes of gas per annum and will produce over 9TCF of gas over 20 years. Address : Postal Address : Phone : Fax : Website :

Level 7, Kina Haus, Douglas Street, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea P.O. Box 143, Port Moresby 121, NCD, Papua New Guinea +675 3202253 +675 320 0238

We are focused on consolidating our position as the State’s nominee in all future oil and gas developments, including the expansion of the PNG LNG Project; the Papua LNG project, operated by Total SA and Pasca A, the first offshore project operated by Twinza Oil.

living Drum roll


Crowd favourites ... (clockwise from top) exhausted paddlers are greeted by hundreds of spectators; a woman with yams for sagali, the ceremonial food exchange; prime position on a jetty to watch the canoes; a television ‘cameraman’ clowning around; male performers with feathered headdresses.

ropes, clay pots, yams, woven baskets and sleeping mats are today’s gifts presented to the sailors from far-flung islands. Sailing has always been an integral part of life of Milne Bay people. Today, replaced by fast-moving motorised banana boats, the canoes are a rare sight. First held in 2003, the Alotau Kenu and Kundu Festival is an attempt to prevent the loss of

knowledge and traditions, to revive the canoe racing and canoe building techniques. It is also a venue where culture and tourism support each other, creating or renewing recognition of the value of PNG culture. Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Alotau eight times weekly. See

84 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine


WHEN Kenu and Kundu Festival, November 1–3. WHERE TO STAY Budget/middle-range: Napa tana Lodge, Alotau Waterfront Lodge, Alotau International Hotel Masurina Lodge. Luxury: Driftwood Resort, Tawa , li Resort. Special places: Nuli Sapi (1.5-hour boat ride from Alotau), Ulumani Treetops Lodge (80-minute drive). MORE INFORMATION nationalkenukundufes

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Adventures tapa trail on the

Richard Andrews meets Joan Winter, who is helping Omie tapa artists to promote their traditional handiwork.



Tapa artists ... an unnamed villager with an example of her work (above); Joan Winter with Lila Warimou, one of the Omie’s oldest-practising tapa artists (below).


fell in love with the country as soon as the plane door opened and the wall of heat and humidity hit me,” says Joan Winter. The Pacific arts curator first arrived in Papua New Guinea as an exchange student in 1972 and has worked since as a teacher, researcher and founding director of a major museum in Milne Bay. Often travelling alone, she’s lived in villages around the country and counts her ‘adoption’ by three families from different communities among the highlights of life in PNG. “In a previous time, I would have been an explorer,” she says. “I’m an adventurer and take risks.” Her latest adventure has involved arduous bush treks in Oro Province, to help a remote community of Omie tapa artists export their unique bark-cloth paintings. As the founding director of the Massim Museum and Cultural Centre in Alotau, Winter had heard about the Omie masters and longed to make contact with them. The opportunity came after she left the museum in 2017 and went to see her goddaughter, Rahab, who lived near the track to the seven main villages in Omie territory. “Rahab’s family helped set up a visit and offered to walk me in,” says Winter.

86 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

The trip involved a bumpy truck ride from Popondetta to the end of a rutted rocky track, then a punishing two-day hike on mountain trails to Savodibehi village. “I needed two young men on either side helping me and another one pushing me up the steep muddy trails. We often had only half a foothold.” “I’m 68 and still did it, despite arthritis. At one point, I told myself, I’ll never try this again. But I did and I will!” Winter’s reputation as a champion of PNG culture preceded her. Hundreds of villagers gathered for a traditional welcome, complete with singing, dancing and a specially prepared meal of bandicoot and eel. “I told them: ‘I love tapa, so I have come to see yours’,” she says. “During the visit I learned how individual tapa pieces had already been sold

overseas, but the artists were not properly paid or credited for their work.” Winter agreed to contribute her experience and contacts as a curator to set up the community-owned Omie Cultural Business Group. “The Omie believe that the way out of poverty and isolation is by exporting their art,” says Winter. “I organised workshops in budget management, business structure and cataloguing to ensure they get an equitable return from future sales of tapa.” Omie tapa is made from the inner bark of rainforest fig and banyan trees as well as the paper mulberry tree. Paint dyes come from various roots, bark, leaves, fruit, seeds and nuts. Dyes also include combinations of natural plant materials, ash and water. The tapa’s artistic designs are based on the natural world. Works are alive with grub eggs, beetle homes, insects, hornbill beaks, teeth, feathers, lizards’ jaw bones, the tail feathers of swift birds and even the stars and the moon. The Omie region lies close to Kokoda in the foothills of Mount Obo and slopes of the Mount Lamington volcano, Huvaemo. Both are considered sacred sites. Known as nioge in the local language, Omie tapa also has sacred associations. “Nioge is part of one of the first creation stories and so is very important to us,” says Omie leader Biriso Sirevevo.



All kinds of goodness... for the whole family! Modern, stylish surroundings, great ambience and a great choice of dining styles from the grill to buffet, salad bars and gourmet stone-fired pizza - fine food to dine in or take away, Gateway Hotel is the food and entertainment destination for Port Moresby. Open Daily for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Bookings: 327 8100 |

living Adventures on the tapa trail “In the main story, the first man, Mina, and first woman, Suja, arrive on a flat plain. As they make love, Mount Obo forms under them. Suja goes down to the river, finds the right tree, as directed by Mina. She beats the first tapa to wear, before she can return to live with her husband.” Tragically, the lives of Mina and Suja’s descendants were devastated by the deadly effects of World War 2 and its aftermath. Many young men left their villages to seek work elsewhere. Mount Wellington’s volcanic eruption in 1951 further disrupted traditional life in the region. Thousands died and were made homeless, while the flames, dust and ash also damaged the environment. As a result, fewer young men could participate in the Ujawe initiation ceremony, integral to Omie culture. After the eruption, the leaders decided their mountain was punishing them and they needed to return to more traditional customs. One way was to give women access to cultural knowledge previously restricted to men.

88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine


I needed two young men on either side helping me and another one pushing me up the steep muddy trails. We often had only half a foothold.

This opening expanded the range of iconography women used in their production of tapa, helping it evolve into the vibrant art form collected today. Works by artists such as Lila Warimou and her brother Rex are on display at the Queensland Art Gallery. The Omie have decided to produce three grades of tapa: major works for international

exhibition by museums and galleries; smaller pieces for sale to targeted markets; and smaller items such as bags, hats, belts, document folders and business card holders. To set up an eco-tourism trade, the community has already built a small museum, plus two traditional guesthouses for intrepid visitors and potential tapa buyers. Winter is now based in Brisbane, Australia, with a home gallery showcasing Omie tapa. Appointed the business group’s international representative, she’s travelling Europe to arrange exhibitions. A showing next year has already been scheduled for London’s renowned Rebecca Hossack Gallery, which promotes non-Western artistic traditions. The gallery circuit is a break from the physical hardship of visiting remote villages, but Winter says she’s determined to help Omie artists and their community flourish. See



Three PNG designers are showing their wares to the world. Dusk Devi reports.


t’s a great time for Pacific fashion. Pacific-origin designers are killing it worldwide, from hometown fashion weeks to Australia’s Pacific Runway and, now, the prestigious London Pacific Fashion Week (LPFW). Held in the same week as London Fashion Week, LPFW attracts Pacific-origin designers and models and is an excellent chance for the designers to promote their brands and style. In the past few years, PNG designers have been impressing at LPFW, and winning awards and accolades from industry peers. LPFW 2019 features three of PNG’s finest designers and Paradise caught up with them before they jetted off for the September event.

Diana Wilkins ITATIE Originally from the Collingwood Bay area, Oro Province, and now based in Hong Kong, Wilkins launched her label in November 2017. “Fashion design had always been a hobby. I was able to turn my hobby in to a full-time business when the youngest of my sons left home for university. I had free time again,” she says. “My ethnic roots are a big influence – ITATIE is inspired by my tribal culture and is for the woman who wants classic, simple elegance with traditional motifs. Fashion is expression of my identity, culture, values and faith.”

What made Wilkins decide to show at LPFW? “I wanted to take the step into a bigger pond, out of the home region of the Pacific. LPFW was the place to go, a home away from home surrounded by other Pacific designers including others from PNG. I really want to enter the UK market and I feel that LPFW is an excellent platform and gateway. “My LPFW19 collection is called ‘Redeem’. It’s a women’s evening-wear collection, white with tribal motifs, symbolising beauty from ashes. Ash is one of the elements used as dye on traditional tapa (bark) cloth by the tribes of Collingwood Bay.” How has the LPFW theme ‘Climate change in the Pacific’ inspired the collection? “The motifs in my designs are inspired by bark from trees. One of the biggest contributors to climate change is de-forestation, it is the second-largest cause of global

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warming according to Earth Day Network. “This hits home for me as the ethnic communities of Collingwood Bay and other parts of Papua New Guinea have lost large portions of their forests due to extensive logging. “The red and clay colour of my motifs symbolise the Earth and black symbolises the condition of the Earth. White symbolises redemption. If every citizen of this planet did his or her part, we may help our Earth redeem its health.” ITATIE garments are for sale via Facebook and Instagram. IG: @Itatieboutique Facebook: Itatie



In the past few years, PNG designers have been impressing at London Pacific Fashion Week.

PNG creations ... traditional motifs on an ITATIE outfit (opposite page); designs by Kenny Ng (right).

Kenny Ng Kenny Collection and Kenny PNG Originally from Malaysia, Kenny Ng has lived in PNG for the past 30 years. A resident of Lae, Morobe Province, Ng has been designing fabrics for 10 years and eventually decided to design clothes five years ago. What motivated him to start a career in fashion? “My fascination and love for PNG arts and craft; I am an avid collector of PNG art. Fashion is an art form and for me, fashion design is an excellent expression of how you really feel about the things that interest your eyes and heart,” he says.

Natasha Tamanabae Baiwa Describing herself as coming from mixed regional parentage, Natasha Tamanabae draws on her heritage from Morobe and Oro provinces.

“My signature style is traditional motif work. I draw heavily from cultural influences and pay my respects to this amazing country that way. I design for the classic formal fashion wearer, with elegance and drama in mind.” What persuaded Ng to show at LPFW19? “I, like all designers, want to branch out. I wanted to target foreign customers and promote PNG culture through designs. “My LPFW collection is called ‘Proudly PNG’ and features the bird of paradise, the national bird of PNG and one of my favourite PNG symbols. “The LPFW theme lets me create beautiful designs to raise awareness that we need to protect these beautiful creatures from natural and man-made disasters.”

Ng’s collection will be available for sale after his show in London and at the Kenny Ng boutique at Brian Bell Plaza, Lae. Instagram: @kennypng Facebook: Kenny Collection & KENNY PNG LTD

Tamanabae achieved a bachelor of arts degree in international studies from Madang Divine Word University, but it was a traditionally significant dance from her father’s Oro district that ignited her passion for fashion. “Baiwa represents the Oro butterfly dance, where women wrap themselves in tapa cloth to portray the wings of a butterfly, and gracefully sway to the beat of

the kundu drum,” she says. The tradition was passed down from her grandmother’s designs on tapa cloth and this inspired Tamanabae to turn the Baiwa history and tapa designs into fashion garments, bags, accessories and shoes that are praised for their uniqueness and quality. “Wearing the Baiwa brand will mimic the traditional butterfly dance that the women of Oro

perform,” she says. “This, in turn, draws attention to the plight of the butterfly, seemingly slowly disappearing due to climate change.” Baiwa will be available for sale at LPFW and is also available at Tamanabae’s ‘umbrella’ shop, Elite Fashion Club PNG.

September – October 2019


spotted in


rowing up in Queensland, Australia, with a Papua New Guinean mother and New Zealand father and constantly being asked about her origins made becoming an an-

thropologist an easy choice for Kirsten McGavin. Born in Australia, she was often asked, ‘where are you from’? “And so it was reinforced from an early age that ‘Australia’ was not the answer my interrogators were looking for,” she tells Paradise. “This got me interested in race and identity, even as a child, and solidified my identity as a mixed-race person of PNG and NZ descent – to the point where I’d often refer to myself as a Papua New Zealander!” Her mother was born in Rabaul and her father is from Auckland. She went to school


e an sb



Kevin McQuillan meets a PNG anthropologist fascinated by islander identity.


A matter of identity

tted in … b ri Spo


and university in Brisbane and Auckland. After graduating from the University of Queensland in 1998 she taught at Hoskins Secondary School at Kimbe, West New Britain Province. “I was 21, not that much older than some of the students. It was probably the best secondary school in the country at the time – I’d like to think it still is – and I was excited to be there, although I had never wanted to be a teacher and I knew that anthropology was my true calling. “Nevertheless, the school was fantastic – a great melting pot of students from all over PNG.

Kirsten McGavin … says language is central to the identity of PNG people.


Avoid the airport queue! Online Check-in is available on from 24 hours to 3 hours before departure. *Online Check-in is not available for flights departing Australia and Japan.

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“One of the disappointing things about the school, though, was that they had a policy of giving demerits to students who spoke pidgin or any other local language.” The aim of the policy was to encourage students to do well in their final exams and head to university or into business. “This policy really hit me personally, as my grandmother had often spoken about a similar policy when she’d been at school in Kokopo,” McGavin says. “Back then, in my grandmother’s time, students would be punished not by demerits, but by having to stand out in the sun in the middle of the oval for hours. Just for speaking language. And when my mother came to Australia to go to school, she was even made to go to elocution lessons to get rid of her PNG accent. “I think that means a lot more to us Papua New Guineans because language is so central to our identities and connects us with peles (the home village).

spotted in

“The wantok (countryman or kinsman) system – at least theoretically – centres around people who are from the same language group.” At Hoskins, with no TV, no phone, and not even a washing machine, she had time to think about where she was and how much she actually felt at home there. She kept notes and made draft outlines for her honours thesis, which examined mixed race and islander identity in the New Guinea Islands. “I was always eager to learn more about my heritage and culture and the more I read, the more I realised that most of the stuff written on our culture and history was written by white people, especially white men. “This made me want to write what I knew from a PNG perspective – to help bring some kind of balance to that. I soon finished a PhD and anthropology was a natural choice – I felt I had a lot to contribute, and at the same time, I could spend my studies and career immersed in my culture, always learning more.”

As well as researching and guest lecturing at the University of Queensland, McGavin is working on a novel about a New Ireland woman who develops superpowers, set in the time when blackbirding was rife throughout the Pacific. “For years, I’d been dying to see a black superhero on the big screen. Too often, we’d been relegated to the ranks of best friend, sidekick or token. “I think it’s really important to have black and islander voices represented in anthropology, as these are our stories. That’s why I love Black Panther and Aquaman so much.” McGavin is also working on a biography of one of Kimbe’s founding families. “As the town itself has only just celebrated the 50th anniversary of its naming, it seemed like a good idea to reflect on the history and social and economic development of the place, and focusing on one of the town’s key families seemed like a great way to do that,” she says.

September – October 2019



my png

my png


A memory of war

A coastal villager in PNG’s northeast has collected World War 2 relics to set up a museum on the lawn outside her house.


ecently, while working on a road project along the Coastal Highway, I visited some coastal villages in the northeast of Papua New Guinea. The highway is used for travel between Wewak in East Sepik Province and Aitape in West Sepik Province. One of the villages along the way is But (pronounced ‘boot’); an idyllic, beachside settlement about an hour’s drive from Wewak.

Like most places in the country, the people are warm and friendly, evident from their wide, toothy smiles and generous nature. It was here that I came across a colourful character by the name of Barbara. The elderly woman resides on the outskirts of But’s main village and it is here that she has gathered a cache of World War 2 memorabilia and put it on display on her property – an informal museum of war, if you will.

After hearing of her collection from a work colleague, I made my way to her place, skirting a decent-sized crater that I find out is the legacy of an exploded ordnance. After a while, I arrive at a clearing bordered by bamboo fencing. The fencing creates a corridor, of sorts, with the pathway paved with river gravel and neatly kept shrubs along the edge. Thatched-roof houses grace one side of the corridor,

while an assortment of World War 2 wrecks and machinery populate the other. However, what really gets my attention is the layout and presentation of the artifacts: the lawn is well manicured, the items are adequately spaced and, despite being exposed to the elements, they are in satisfactory condition. Over a meal of coconut-creamed nangu (sago), fish and green leafy vegetables, I ask Barbara what has

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Mt. Hagen



She recounts how Japanese soldiers invaded her land when she was a small girl and converted it into an airstrip.

compelled her to set up this museum. With a faraway look in her eye, she recounts how Japanese

my png

Home collection ... one of the remnants of war on Barbara’s front lawn.

soldiers invaded her land when she was a small girl. She says they converted the land into an airstrip, forcing her people to the mountains to escape the war.

When she realised the potential of the site being a tourist destination, she allocated a small portion of her land to display the artefacts that she has found. She has taken

it upon herself to maintain the grounds and ensure the museum is presentable and receives no funds from anyone. She has had a couple of tourists visit her area – mostly war veterans and their families. Throughout our conversation, Barbara does not seem bothered that she has not received funding for her project. Sitting there, with a handful of buai between us, I get the feeling setting up the museum as a potential tourist attraction is only an afterthought. It could be that housing all those relics is a means for her to touch base with her past – a physical embodiment of years gone by.

‘My PNG’ is a column in which Papua New Guineans write about where they live, or about a part of the country they know and love. If you wish to contribute, email

September – October 2019



motoring BY TOBY HAGON


A PNG stalwart


ough and rugged, the Toyota Hilux has long been a capable and respected pickup truck – and the latest model doesn’t mess with a successful formula. It’s a formula forged over more than half a century, traversing some of the world’s most challenging and unforgiving roads, from Papua New Guinea to Australia and Africa. But the eighth generation of the workhorse legend does step things up, starting with its core. The steel chassis that underpins the latest Hilux is stronger and stiffer than ever, courtesy of side rails that are 30 millimetres thicker than those on the model it replaces. There’s also been a 45 per cent increase in the number of spot welds, all about ensuring things stay in place, however punishing the potholes and corrugations. Thunder into a bump – or successive bumps – large or small and the inherent strength is immediately on display, the stout suspension effortlessly disposing of all thrown its way. It’s not always elegant – you feel the jolts and jars, particularly through the leaf spring rear suspension – but it is effective. That rear end settles slightly once you’ve got a few people on board or some weight in the tray, the additional kilograms posing little challenge for the Hilux.

Indeed, carrying things is a strength of the latest Hilux. Whereas some pick-ups sag in the rear end once loaded to their circa-one-tonne capacity, the Hilux mostly maintains its poise, only faltering when big hits momentarily compress the suspension. The latest 2.8-litre diesel engine is honest and hearty but uninspiring. There’s a modest 130kW of power to play with, but with up to 450Nm of torque there’s ample muscle to keep things rolling. Rely on that pull lower in the engine’s rev range and it’s more than capable, holding speed nicely and rarely fazed by carrying big loads. The 2.4-litre also available is less impressive, The original Toyota Hilux was created in 1968 as a load-lugging workhorse to Toyota’s growing range. Tiny four-cylinder petrol engines with less than half the power of the modern turbo diesel were the only choice. But the Hilux has evolved with the times, in 1979 becoming the first mid-sized pickup truck to offer a four-wheel drive system.

DETAILS/SPECS – Toyota Hilux 4x4 dual-cab Price: Engine: 2.8-litre 4-cylinTransmission: 6-speed From PGK138,000 der turbo diesel manual or auto, 4WD

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with 110kW of power. But its 400Nm of torque ensures most of the muscle is still available, the low-rev pull more than adequate. Comfort arrives courtesy of a cabin that easily caters for four, and five at a pinch. Being slightly narrower than some rivals means the Hilux positions those on the left and right of the vehicle slightly closer. At least there’s good adjustability to the driving position and front seats that make for comfortable touring. Despite its rugged heart, the Hilux delivers on trimmings. The dual-cab 4x4 starts from PGK138,000 and there’s cruise control and a reversing camera. The 7.0-inch infotainment screen also provides crisp, concise information, although the touch sensitive pads on either side of the screen aren’t as effective as traditional buttons. Still, what the Hilux lacks in fizz and excitement it makes up for with a proven mechanical package that does a terrific job of moving people and whatever it is you have to carry. All of which adds up to a truck that’s at its best in punishing conditions.

Power/torque: 130kW/420Nm (manual), 130kW/450Nm (auto)

Wheels: 18-inch alloys

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Port Moresby

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PAPUA LNG PROJECT In the time it takes you to read this page, you’ll become an expert on the Papua LNG project. WHAT IS THE PAPUA LNG PROJECT? On April 9, 2019, the PNG Government and French company Total signed the $US10 billion Papua LNG Project Gas Agreement, which,

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according to the government, will include the involvement of local businesses, have socioeconomic benefits for communities, and will add three percentage points to the country’s GDP.

WAIT … DIDN’T THIS HAPPEN IN 2014? That was the PNG LNG Project operated by ExxonMobil, an American company. This is the Papua LNG Project operated by Total, a French company. Though, ExxonMobil and its partner Oil Search are also partners in the new Total project. THIS IS HAPPENING IN PORT MORESBY THEN? The project will supply gas from the Elk and Antelope onshore fields in Gulf Province to two new processing units that will be built at the current ExxonMobil plant just outside of Port Moresby. By expanding the current processing site the project will avoid unnecessary duplication of equipment and inflated costs. OK, BUT IS THIS A GOOD DEAL FOR PNG? In April, then Prime Minister, Peter O’Neill, told local media it was a “much better deal” as it includes an obligation to provide gas to the


domestic market at a fixed price, guaranteed tax revenues and a two per cent production levy. The state will have a 22.5 per cent stake in the project. The new Marape Government commenced a review of the gas agreement, which should be complete by the time you read this. SO, IT’S NOT A GOOD DEAL? The new government has been keen to ensure as much local benefit from the project as possible, without compromising the signed


agreement. The project should trigger infrastructure development in Gulf Province. The project is expected to double PNG’s liquefied natural gas exports and boost the country’s position to sell gas into Asia’s booming economies. WILL PAPUA NEW GUINEANS RECEIVE ANY DIRECT BENEFITS? The project is supposed to create jobs for 20,000 people during construction, and the

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Government’s stake of 22.5 per cent includes a two per cent interest on behalf of landowners. Also, Wapu Sonk, managing director of Kumul Petroleum, the Government-owned company that protects the state’s interests in the deal, says that domestic gas needs will need to be supplied at competitive prices and the partners will have to give conditional access to pipelines to other gas developers to help ensure the country reaches its target of connecting 70 per cent of households to electricity by 2030. Currently, only 13 per cent of households have electricity. GREAT, SO WHEN WILL THIS START? Well, the start-up date was supposed to be this year, but now it is expected construction will begin in 2021, and the first cargoes are expected to ship in 2024. If you have a topic you’d like investigated, email your suggestion to paradise@

Project based supply + installation 3D Rendering Task Chairs Storage Solutions Meeting Tables September – October 2019




BY Robert Upe



he Mumu restaurant at the Hilton Hotel is hitting its straps just 12 months after opening. “It’s my favourite place to go in Port Moresby,” one expat comments. Translated, mumu means ‘feast’, or a way of traditional cooking. It is typically a hole in the ground layered with hot stones and food wrapped in banana leaves, which is covered with earth as everything slow cooks. Here, at the restaurant, the hole in the ground and heated stones are replaced by gas-fired, earthen-style ovens. The Papua New Guinean chefs and wait staff are clearly proud to be presenting their country on a plate, and their enthusiasm and professionalism rubs off, with this bound to become the signature dining experience in the PNG capital. The best tables in the house are in small pavilions with timberlouvre windows, polished floorboards and ceiling fans. Surrounded by lush vegetation, water features, flaming lanterns and fire cauldrons, it feels like you’re deep in a South Seas jungle and not the urban landscape of Port Moresby. If PNG’s heat is too much on the day, you can be seated inside in air-conditioned comfort. Some of the seating is at a counter alongside the open kitchen. Dining at Mumu is an experience, rather than a quick bite on the way to somewhere else. Maryanne, my waiter for the night, takes the time to explain the dishes and the ritual of the mumu as practised in her home village. The menu is small, but the dishes are oversize. It’s a good idea for two people to share one main. The starters include a tasting plate with sago done four ways, and a clay-pot chicken and coconut soup. For the mumu main course, I could choose between pork,


100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

WHERE: Wards Road, Hohola, Port Moresby PHONE: +675 750 18000 Web: STYLE: PNG-inspired earth-oven cooking PRICEs: Starters PGK40–50; mains PGK130–170; sides PGK30; desserts PGK45 our FAVOURITE DISH: Boroma pork shoulder, belly and loin with crackling

IN A WORD or two: A feast

slow-cooked lamb, barramundi (with calamari and tiger prawns), and chargrilled rib eye. It would be a welcome addition to the menu to have a combination plate of them all. To keep the home-grown theme going, mumu roasted vegetables such as kau kau (sweet potato), banana and yam are offered among the side dishes. If you dare, you can finish off with a dessert of sago cake, banana, red pandanus fruit and Highland chocolate.




Loving your liver On the table … liver-friendly foods include nuts, leafy greens and broccoli.


ave you ever felt not quite your best and wondered why? If your symptoms revolve around feeling sluggish, easily fatigued, sugar cravings, and foggy thinking, then chances are high you are not giving your liver the love it needs. Doctors hail the liver as one of your body’s hardest working organs. While it is quite amazing, performing hundreds of functions, all that work is to primarily help process, store or eliminate everything you put in your body. If you bombard your body with alcohol and processed food – such as sweets, cakes and most pack-

aged meals – your liver suffers. An unhealthy liver can lead to digestive issues, constipation, slow metabolism, and make weight gain more likely, as well as promote the formation of gas. A disgruntled liver can even give you emotional issues – triggering depression, hormonal imbalances and mood swings. Optimising your liver function is not hard, however. Try following these guidelines and you’ll be on your way to feeling better. Maximise nutrient intake by choosing meals containing all food groups: healthy protein, dairy, grains, vegetables, fruits and healthy fats.

P ut less strain on your liver by using coconut oil. Unlike most other fats, this healthy saturated fat is easily digested. Up your intake of crucifers – which include such vegetables as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, bok choy and daikon. All contain compounds that assist your liver’s ability to neutralise toxins such as pesticides (often sprayed on fresh produce), drugs and carcinogens. Add garlic. Garlic is one of the richest sources of the active sulphur-based compound allicin, which is critical for detoxification. It will boost your

LIVER FRIENDLY SALAD WITH COCONUT DRESSING INGREDIENTS 1p unnet strawberries 1 bunch kale, lettuce, and/or blueberries spinach or other leafy 1 a vocado, skin and green vegetable, pip removed, cubed stems removed and 1c up quinoa, cooked roughly chopped

102 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

DRESSING 2 tbsp coconut oil, melted 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp honey

liver’s capacity to eliminate the hormone oestrogen, the chemical mercury and certain food additives. Onions, shallots and leeks do similar. Throw in some ginger and turmeric, too. Ginger nourishes your liver, unclogs blocked arteries and lowers blood cholesterol, while the antioxidants it contains are anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antimicrobial. Turmeric contains curcumin, found to heal your liver as well as aid detoxification. Another food that contains a nutrient vital for your liver is avocado. It is a source of glutathione as well as being full 4 servings. Preparation time 10 mins, Cooking time 5 mins

METHOD In a large bowl gently mix all salad ingredients together. In a glass jar or small bowl mix together the dressing

ingredients. Gently combine the two until salad ingredients are fully covered with dressing and serve on a platter.



MINDFUL MATS An entrepreneurial manufacturer in Bali has created the ultimate yoga mat for travellers who are as mindful about the environment as they are their own health. Yoga Design Lab’s non-toxic mats are made from recycled plastic bottle microfibres and natural tree rubber, and are cleverly constructed to act as part mat, part towel. The mats come in three thicknesses: a super-lightweight ‘Travel’ version for those on the go, ‘Commuter’ for when you have to carry your mat around town, and the sturdier ‘Studio’ for regular daily use. Shipping is available worldwide. See

of healthy mono-unsaturated fat and oleic acid. Choose high-quality healthy protein, which means lean meats and plant sources such as beans, legumes and lentils. High-quality protein will help your body stave off infection and heal any liver cells damaged by previous indulgence. Cut down on everything processed, especially sugary treats such as cakes, biscuits and ice creams. Put down the saltshaker and check the sodium content on nutritional panels. Try to lessen the amount of added salt. Make sure the fat you eat is good fat – meaning the fats found in avocado, nuts, seeds and fish. Cut out or minimise alcohol. Water is good for the liver; 8–10 glasses a day is the general rule. Herbal teas and fresh vegetable juices are also helpful.

GOURMET VEGAN Vegan eating – following a diet containing no animal products – is the world’s hottest food trend. Indian company, Acumen Consulting, estimates veganism will be a $US24.3 billion industry. See what all the hype is about by sampling some of the best vegan food in the Asia-Pacific region. Sydney: Located in the Ovolo Hotel, Woolloomooloo, near the CBD, Alibi is one of the best vegan restaurants in Australia. This is mainly because the founder, Californian Matthew Kenney, is one of the world’s most expert vegan chefs. An aficionado of meat-free menus for more than 15 years, Kenney has founded his own vegan culinary institute plus opened vegan restaurants in New York, Los Angeles, London and Miami prior to Sydney. Alibi (6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo)

Tokyo: Ain Soph Ripple is the fourth restaurant from this city’s

much-lauded Ain Soph chain. Located in the popular tourist destination Shinjuku, it is the fast-food equivalent of Sydney’s Alibi when it comes to quality. Here you will find delectable five-star vegan burgers, burritos, French-fries, French toast and ice cream. Take the train to Seibu Shinjuku Station and find Ain Soph Ripple near the northern exits. Ain Soph Ripple (Shinjuku-ku Kabuki-cho 2-46-8 Nissho Building 1F, Tokyo)

Hong Kong: MANA! Fast Slow Food pioneered ecohealthy organic, raw fast food in Hong Kong. Take a break from a busy day to ground yourself with meals made from plant-based produce and eat while seated on reclaimed furniture or take your food away in a biodegradable container. Vegan, gluten-free, vegetarian and organic menu. MANA! Fast Slow Food (92 Wellington Street, Central)

September – October 2019




Tough travel umbrella

It’s a big call, but Repel says its travel umbrella doesn’t turn inside out during even the most wild of storms, thanks to a triple fold chrome metal shaft and nine reinforced fibreglass ribs. This framework is covered with Teflon-coated material, giving it exceptional water repellency, plus it’s compact and lightweight. It also comes with a lifetime warranty so if you can keep track of it (always a challenge with umbrellas), you’ll have it forever. Available in a rainbow of colours, for about PGK77;

Unisex backpack

Whether you’re hiking, sightseeing or just getting from point A to point B, a backpack lets you go hands-free and is better for your body, too. The unisex Kaipak 38 from classic Swedish outdoor company Fjallraven has a chic, minimalist design with a supportive structure and robust hip belt that takes the pressure off your shoulders. The company also has strict sustainability standards, so you can feel guilt-free about the purchase. Comes in navy, green or grey, for about PGK760;

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Water shorts

US outdoor brand Filson has been operating since 1897, and its Green River Water shorts are a perfect example of why it has survived. Made from a quick-drying cotton nylon blend that’s treated for water resistance and protection against chlorine, the shorts are also lightweight, have a comfortable elastic waistband and mesh-lined Velcro closure pockets to keep your essentials safe. Available in charcoal, green, khaki and rust, for about PGK253;

Wireless charger

Native Union is best known for making smart tech accessories with slick designs, and its dock wireless charger is no exception. Made from steel and canvas that’s built to last, you simply place your iPhone on the dock and it starts charging quickly and effortlessly, while letting you use your device at the same time. No more scrounging around for cords? Hallelujah. About PGK259;



Collapsible water bottle

Massage ball

We all know that travelling with a reusable water bottle is a great way to help save money and the planet, but having to carry the empty around is annoying. Thank goodness, then, for the collapsible Nomader bottle, made from BPA-free silicone that folds down so you can stash it in your bag – or even your pocket – then expand it when it’s time to fill up again. Comes in lots of fun colours, including lime green and orange, for about PGK84;

No matter how much we travel, that tightness after a long-haul flight always seems to happen. Enter the MBZ massage ball – like a tennis ball but a little more firm, you can lie on top of it and massage different areas of your body. Designed to replicate the pressure of a massage therapist’s elbow, it gets into all the sore spots to relieve joint and muscle pain and stimulates blood flow, which makes it perfect for use in-flight, too. About PGK67;

Pocket blanket

It’s always a good idea to minimise the gear you have to take with you on any outdoor adventure, which is why Matador’s pocket blanket is so brilliant, since it packs into a pocket-sized pouch but can be stretched out to comfortably fit four people. It’s made from a polyester that’s waterproof and puncture resistant, there are rust-proof anchors to secure the corners on windy days and little sand pockets for the same thing at the beach, plus there’s a nylon loop so you can even use it as a key chain. Available in red, green, black or ocean print, from about PGK101;

Travel steamer

Assuming there’ll be an iron in a hotel room is a risky thing. Better to hedge your bets and invest in a Steamery Cirrus No. 2 steamer, to ensure you don’t arrive a dishevelled mess at your next international business meeting. Best bits? The speedy 25-second start-up time, and the protective pouch that doubles as an improvised ironing board for collars and cuffs. About PGK514;

Merino socks

Whether you’re buying them for in-flight comfort or to stay fresh during long days at the office, 124-year-old German company Falke’s Airport Plus socks need to be in your life. With climateregulating merino wool on the outside and comfy cotton on the inside, the calf-length socks are super breathable and have a cushioned sole that makes it feel like you’re walking on a cloud. Available in black, brown, nutmeg, navy and grey, for about PGK69;

Belt bags are back

It’s official: bum bags are back. Second time around, the retro accessory is more chic than the ’80s and ’90s versions, and it’s undeniable that a bum bag has always been the easiest place to stash essentials when you’re on the road. With a durable shell, multiple zippered pockets and the elevated title of a ‘belt bag’, this canvas model from cult Tokyo label Indispensable can also be slung across the body. About PGK235; September – October 2019




Downton Abbey


Cast: Michelle Dockery, Matthew Goode, Maggie Smith

Cast: Renee Zellweger, Michael Gambon, Finn Wittrock

Downton Abbey, the incredibly popular British television series of upstairs–downstairs shenanigans of the Crawley family in Yorkshire of the 1910s, has made it on to the big screen. Downton Abbey’s massive cast returns, once again delivering witty and oh-so British dialogue from returning writer Julian Fellows (who won an Oscar for the similarly themed Gosford Park in 2001). Of course, everybody will love the return of Maggie Smith’s Dowager Countess of Grantham, but they’ll fall most of all for the sweeping period romance and well-manicured estates, captured beautifully.

Icon of stage, screen and music, the one and only Judy Garland is the subject of a new biopic starring Renee Zellweger. While it was always going to be hard being compared to the real-life persona of Judy Garland, whose image is seared into people’s memories through The Wizard of Oz and A Star is Born, Zellweger does a surprisingly effective job. The film tells the story of the final year before Garland’s death, a year spent struggling with addiction and giving live performances that did not leave a single dry eye in the house. Filled with dazzling costumes and colourful set pieces on Hollywood soundstages, Judy does justice to one of the greatest stars Hollywood has ever gifted us, while also reminding viewers of the hard toll that it takes to be in the public eye from so young.

It Chapter Two Cast: Jessica Chastain, James McAvoy, Bill Hader The ambitious undertaking of Stephen King’s acclaimed but gigantic novel, It absolutely needed to be split in half in order to the maximise the effect of its scares. After the first film’s take on childhood frights at the hand of frizzy-haired clown Pennywise, this sequel picks up 27 years later with the gang – affectionately known as The Losers Club – getting back together in their hometown of Derry, with the evil returning to seek out further horrific mayhem. Impeccably cast with actors who look remarkably like their younger counterparts from the 2017 original, this big-budget sequel is set to conquer the world once again. Audiences who still don’t look at red balloons the same way after watching the original will be thrilled to venture once more into Pennywise’s monstrous fantasies and will undoubtedly get a kick out of this gruesome return.

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The Farewell Cast: Awkwafina, Tzi Ma, Diana Lin Following the massive success of Crazy Rich Asians in 2018, we now have another major American studio release with a cast filled entirely with performers of Asian heritage. The Farewell is a tenderly moving drama about one family’s bid to say goodbye to an ailing matriarch, grandmother Nai Nai, back home in mainland China whom they have decided not to tell about her terminal illness. Under the guise of a wedding, the family convenes to celebrate and be a family one last time. But for young Billi, who knows the language but is more or less a foreigner in China, the truth is a struggle. For YouTube sensation Awkwafina, this is a breakout dramatic role after hilarious roles in Ocean’s 8 and Crazy Rich Asians. Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our previewed movies. For screening dates and session times, see

Voluntary Contribution Kicking goals for RETIREMENT Email:


Books BY Greg Clarke

Bewildered By Laura Waters (Affirm Press)

The Beekeeper of Aleppo By Christy Lefteri (Allen & Unwin)

“The idea had begun in bed one night, while scanning the news section of a hiking magazine. The announcement rose from the pages, a brand-new longdistance hiking trail. Te Araroa – the long pathway, in local Maori language – a 3000-kilometre route winding and rippling its way over mountains and forests, from Cape Reinga at the northernmost tip of New Zealand’s North Island to Bluff at the southernmost point of the South Island.” Waters, an occasional contributor to Paradise, has a passion for inspiring people to connect with nature and has lived in various places around the globe while squeezing in random adventures – like mountain biking coast-to-coast across England – as part of a commitment to leading a life less ordinary. There is nothing ordinary about walking the entire length of a country. For Waters the journey is transformative and much of what she learns could apply to many of us.

“In the midst of war, he found love In the midst of darkness, he found courage In the midst of tragedy, he found hope.” What will you find from his story? Nuri is a beekeeper; his wife, Afra, an artist. They live a simple life, rich in family and friends, in the beautiful Syrian city of Aleppo – until the unthinkable happens. When all they care for is destroyed by war, they are forced to escape. After blindness afflicts Afra the couple embark on a perilous journey through Turkey and Greece towards an uncertain future in Britain. Sustaining them is the knowledge of what awaits, a cousin and business partner, who has started an apiary and is teaching other refugees in Yorkshire to keep bees. As Nuri and Afra travel through a broken world they confront unspeakable loss and dangers to overwhelm the bravest of souls. Yet above all they must endure to find each other again.

North Korea Journal By Michael Palin (Penguin)

Tim & Tigon By Tim Cope (Pan Macmillan)

In May 2018 the much-loved Palin – part of the UK’s Monty Python comedy troupe – spent two weeks inside the secretive Democratic People’s Republic of Korea making a TV documentary. This book, a diary of the visit, recounts not only what he saw of the peasant economy but his interactions with locals and officialdom, and includes musings about a place wholly unlike anywhere the muchtravelled Palin has previously traipsed. If the book wasn’t written with Palin’s trademark warmth and wit, this glimpse of life on the inside of an authoritarian regime would be disappointing, no matter how keen its observations. Fortunately, Palin rarely disappoints.

This is a young reader’s edition of the bestselling On the Trail of Genghis Khan, the story of Tim Cope’s 10,000-kilometre journey across Mongolia to Hungary on horseback – a journey previously undertaken by the legendary leader of the Mongols, Genghis Khan. Cope, a National Geographic Adventure Honouree, made this marathon journey through the wolf-infested plateaux of Mongolia and Kazakhstan with his dog, Tigon. During the 3.5-year odyssey Cope experiences unforgettable generosity, torturous isolation and wretchedly testing weather. And while he invokes the spirit of old-world explorers this is also a tale of a rare friendship.

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strictly business PICTURES: DAVID KIRKLAND

from On the tourist trail … more holiday visitors are starting to come to PNG.

PNG tourism is on the rise PNG might be ‘under-touristed’, but if numbers continue to increase it won’t be that way for long, and that’s great news for the economy. Lisa Smyth reports.


n 2017, 82 million tourists visited Spain, even though the country only has a population of 47 million. In the same year, a whopping 2.22 million people visited the island nation of Iceland, when the country’s population is only 338,000. There’s no denying that in some parts of the world ‘overtourism’ is wreaking havoc and negatively impacting people’s way of life.

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In May this year, Intrepid Travel released its 2019 Adventure Travel Index and PNG topped its list of most ‘under-touristed’ countries, with a tourism density ratio of only 2.75 per cent. This means that in 2017, PNG had fewer than three visitors for every 100 people of its population. PNG’s vast natural, cultural and historical resources need to be protected, but this ranking shows that, if this is done

responsibly, PNG’s tourism sector has a lot of opportunity for positive growth. “We are really looking to showcase the incredible breadth of experiences in PNG,” explains Holly Marshall, account manager at Example, the Australian public relations agency that the PNG Tourism Authority recently appointed to market the country to Australian and New Zealand holidaymakers.

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“Australians spend thousands of dollars every year to find unique experiences on the other side of the world. They just don’t know that incredible culture and amazing scenery unlike anything they could imagine is actually right on their doorstep,” says Marshall. “We plan on changing that.”

PNG had a bumper year in 2018 – 95,000 visitors arrived. Collectively they spent $US206 million.

Visitor figures for 2018 released by the International Finance Corporation (IFC) reveal that focusing on PNG’s closest neighbours to boost tourism makes a lot of sense – 53 per cent of all holiday visitors were from Australia, with just under half having been to PNG at least once before and almost 20 per cent having been five or more times. “We have a varied target market, but Australian empty-nesters have a lot of extra income and are keen to experience their own types of adventures now that they no longer have to take care of their children,” notes


Marshall. “We will be looking to highlight the offerings in all provinces across a range of pillars – adventure, history, culture, and niche areas like diving and bird watching.” In fact, adventure and cultural tourists were the largest niche markets in 2018, both bringing in about 20 per cent of all holiday visitors. While bird watching accounted for only four per cent of all holiday visitors, their average spend was $US7392, compared to adventure tourists spending $US1603, making birdwatchers an important market for cultivation. Despite being ‘under-touristed’, PNG had a bumper year in 2018 – 95,000 visitors arrived in PNG last year, a 9.5 per cent increase from 2017. Collectively, they spent $US206 million. Even more encouragingly, the share of holiday visitors rose seven percentage points, from 26 per cent of total visitors in 2017 to 33 per cent in 2018. Business visitors made up 50 per cent of all visitors, and those visiting friends and family constituted the remaining 17 per cent. This indicates that PNG is starting to close its holiday market gap and is coming closer to the global average holiday market of 53 per cent of total visitors. Holiday visitors spent an average of $US2500 per person per trip, 15 per cent more than business travellers, making increasing their numbers a priority. Outside of Port Moresby, Central Province, Morobe and Northern Province received the

most visitors. There was a 25 per cent rise in the number of visitors to Milne Bay and a 17 per cent increase in visitors to East New Britain, suggesting both coastal provinces are perfectly positioned for future growth. Best of all, once holiday visitors make their way to PNG, they act as great ambassadors for the country and are overwhelmingly positive about their experience.

The stories in our ‘Strictly Business’ section were first published in PNG’s online business magazine,, and are re-published by arrangement with Business Advantage International.

September – October 2019


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Lighting up the nation Sixty per cent of PNG households are using solar energy, compared to just two per cent seven years ago. Kevin McQuillan reports.


even years ago, most homes in Papua New Guinea relied on firewood, kerosene and other products for lighting needs, with little ability to charge mobile phones. But the International Finance Corporation’s (IFC’s) Lighting PNG program has achieved dramatic growth in the purchase of off-grid solar products with 60 per cent of households now buying solar energy products. “Solar has now effectively replaced kerosene lamps in homes, which is good for people and the environment,” says the IFC’s resident representative in PNG, John Vivian.

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Switched on … solar power is transforming many Papua New Guinean homes.

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“It’s a significant move in a country where only 13 per cent of people are connected to an electricity grid.” Six years ago, mobile phone penetration was growing rapidly, but the means to charge those phones was lagging, Thomas Jacobs, IFC country manager for Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific, told Paradise. “Now kerosene has been usurped, and there’s a prevalence of generic offerings, battery powered torches and lanterns, alongside quality-verified off-grid solar products – many with an ability to charge a phone.” Between 2012 and 2017, annual off-grid solar sales grew 68 per cent from around 30,000 to more than 400,000. In 2017, one in every four PNG households purchased an off-grid solar product. The IFC’s Lighting PNG program has helped 22 per cent of the population – or 1.8 million people – gain access to off-grid solar lighting and mobile phone charging for the first time. The market penetration of solar products


Solar has now effectively replaced kerosene lamps in homes.

in PNG is now significantly higher than other off-grid solar markets such as India, Nigeria, Bangladesh and Myanmar. The growth can be attributed to a range of factors, including people having sufficient disposable income, the low connectivity rate of 13 per cent, as well as new distribution networks and the Lighting PNG program. The program involved the IFC partnering with five global manufacturers and four local distributors on how to grow the off-grid solar market in PNG, particularly in rural areas, through market research advice, roadshows,

and setting minimum quality standards for partners to join the program. “This marks a significant first step in access for people in the energy ladder,” the head of IFC’s energy advisory program in the Pacific, Subrata Barman, says. “While there are plans to increase the number of people connected to grids, it’s clear that lighting product solutions will continue to play an important role in Papua New Guinea’s electrification strategy.” An IFC analysis of the program says the PNG solar market is worth $US260 million a year and is expected to grow over the next five years. “But there is still tremendous opportunity to build partnerships, deepen reach, and leverage disruption and technological innovation to continue to increase access and support productive uses,” says Jacobs. “Along with grid electrification efforts being pursued by the Government of PNG, we believe off-grid energy will remain a cornerstone of the country’s energy supply strategy.”

September – October 2019


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Company Profile


TONY HONEY The managing director of PNG Forest Products says that the company has developed its power operations alongside its forest products activities. Q: You seem to be developing a global footprint. How do you select market opportunities and how do you coordinate it? A: The obvious factor for exports is being competitive and producing products that bring greater value to our business. Through

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close liaison with our clients we continue to improve our product lines through greater efficiencies and improved quality standards, which enable us to fend off alternative product offerings. Market opportunities come about by being competitive and

continuing to develop alternative engineered wood products. Q: What kind of sales growth are you expecting? A: We see substantial growth in our power business simply by being competitive and

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efficient. This also applies to all our timberbased business streams. These engineered wood products require us to be innovative, efficient and competitive. Q: What are you doing with your power operations? A: We are providing hydro-power to the community as well as using it for our own purposes. We supply the Bulolo community, the PNG grid and our operations. The question has been asked ‘will we ultimately become a power company as well as a forestry company?’ We have become this already. We will continue to grow our major business streams. Q: What are your biggest challenges and opportunities? A: Improved infrastructure is critical to our continued success, as are favourable exchange rates with exports and less bureaucratic red tape. Financially stable government provides stable income for our

Company Profile

power business streams; essentially this applies to the local economy as well. Q: You seem to be expanding quite quickly. How does that affect your organisation and management? Have you had to do any restructuring? A: Any large organisation such as ours frequently tweaks its management and in recent times we have undergone a major restructure that has been successful and beneficial. This was not brought about by expansion, but rather by a weakening economy, which we experienced two years or so ago. While we have expanded in certain business streams, the main focus has been on greater efficiencies and output, plus producing higher value products. Q: How are you expanding your operations and product range? A: We are producing and exporting some really innovative and interesting products that represent value-adding to an otherwise

basic piece of plywood. Products such as modular bridges and decking into Australia and New Zealand; specialised railway bridge re-decking in Sydney; sound barriers along Australian highways; and scarf-jointed bus floors for Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and Hong Kong. We’ve also continued to develop our hydro-power operations. We operate three stations, including the oldest and newest hydro power stations in PNG. We are the only independent power producer that supplies hydro-power to PNG Power. We are also currently well advanced with the development of our fourth, and fifth, hydropower stations.

September – October 2019


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Timeless classics Whether you’re on the golf course or in the boardroom, these watches are set to impress.





Timex’s Acadia was a big deal in the ’90s, a bestseller whose design has stood the test of time. It uses the brand’s ‘3F’ or ‘three features’ system, meaning it’s lightweight (thanks to an adjustable grosgrain strap), tough (it’s backed by stainless steel) and easy-to-read, thanks to the clean, minimal look. Available in black, green and blue, for about PGK288;


The extra-large dial on Tissot’s Chrono XL gives it a tough, aviation-style vibe that looks as good in business meetings as on the golf course. There’s sapphire crystal protecting the slick black face, chronograph functionality including a 30-minute counter, and 100-metre water resistance. About PGK1110;


Whether you’re just window shopping or looking to make a serious horological acquisition, Omega’s De Ville Co-Axial collection is the height of elegant watch design. The sophisticated Roman numerals are crafted from 18-carat gold, as is the 41-millimetre case. About PGK51,687;

Cartier has been producing its Tank collection since World War 1, with its design inspired by the Renault army tank, and it continues to be the watch of choice for some of the world’s most powerful women – Michelle Obama and Angelina Jolie included. When it comes to the Tank Solo design, you can choose between various strap and metal options: silver is more understated, rose gold adds warmth, while yellow gold is the most classic. From about PGK8847;


Treading the line between watch and jewellery, the gold-plated stainless steel bracelet of Seiko’s SRZ528P1 lifts the class factor and brings a luxurious feel, without the hefty price tag. The white face, slick Roman numerals and Japanese simplicity are just what your wrist needs. About PGK1455;



Kitted out with Super-LumiNova glowing hands and markings, you’ll be able to quickly and easily check the time on your Filson Field Watch no matter how dark the plane, boardroom or bedroom. You’ll also be able to do just about any activity with it on, thanks to the stainless steel case, scratchproof sapphire crystal face and 100-metre water resistance. About PGK1184;

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Could Garmin’s Fenix 5s Plus be the watch every working woman needs? Quite possibly. The fashion-focused smartwatch comes with all the best fitness tracking features, lets you pay from your wrist, helps you get around town via inbuilt GPS, and will shoot you your emails, texts and meeting alerts on the go. About PGK1513;

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Economic sentiment on the rise David James reports that there are positives in the Lae economy, despite some bumps in the highway.

Lae … PNG’s second-largest city is an important industrial hub.


ae, in Morobe Province, is Papua New Guinea’s second-largest city. It has a history as the industrial centre of the country. It has PNG’s biggest port and is the terminus for PNG’s longest and most important arterial road, the Highlands Highway. The Asian Development Bank has announced plans for a 10-year project to upgrade the highway, which will especially benefit the region’s many smallholder farmers. The PNG National Government has committed funds to upgrade Lae’s Nadzab airport and work has also started on expanding the road between the airport and Lae city. John Byrne, president of the Lae Chamber of Commerce and Industry, says there are positives in the economy, however it has been

“static” recently, partly because of foreign exchange shortages. “Lae has been caught up in the foreign exchange issue like most businesses have. A lot of importers

times. There has been more investment in the Markham Valley with Trukai doing the rice fields, cassava for SP Brewery and sorghum through Mainland Holdings.

One of the most important developments for Lae is the $US9 billion (PGK30.5 billion) Wafi-Golpu copper-gold project. have been hit very hard,” he says. “You can see it in the supermarket shelves. They have to balance what they are bringing in and not bringing in. Products that you have seen previously are not there.” Byrne points to the positives. “Agribusiness has grown in recent

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It is import replacement, as much as it is about the need to support the local economy and also the need to satisfy government requirements. “We are a food bowl and if we can do it locally it makes sense. I don’t believe there has been a

massive reduction in terms of the shipping coming in and out. The numbers are pretty static. As for the economy itself, most people are saying it has been consistent for the last 12 months or so.” One of the most important developments for Lae is the $US9 billion (PGK30.5 billion) Wafi-Golpu copper-gold project. The government signed a memorandum of understanding with Newcrest Mining and Harmony Gold last December. There is an application for a judicial review of the agreement with the National Court, but exploration work under the project’s exploration licence is continuing. Michael Kingston, managing director of KK Kingston in Lae, is optimistic about the impact of Wafi-Golpu going ahead.



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strictly business Economic sentiment on the rise

Down to business ... the post office in Lae (above); making the sparks fly at Hornibrooks (right); part of the town’s industrial sector (below); Michael Kingston (below right).

“There is a general air of improved sentiment around Lae, due to the expectation of activity from Wafi-Golpu and flow-on economic activity.” He points to other positive developments. “There are a number of new major developments under construction, including a large new production facility being built by Goodman Fielder, and the ongoing rebuilding of Angau Hospital. Most players that I speak to in the construction and industrial sectors are positive and reporting improved business performance,” Kingston says. He believes that the problems associated with foreign exchange liquidity have “eased”, making international trade easier. “The fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) market remains tight, with most wholesalers and Fixed Wing Rotor wings Drones Loss of License Accidents Hull & Liability

retailers reporting reduced sales volumes versus 2018. And there is increased competition. “Most players in this market segment would say that business conditions are very tough, but this is not surprising to me as

traditionally there is some stickiness in flow-on effects from increased activity in the industrial and construction sectors through to the general consumer sectors.”

lae Business guide

Lae is situated next to the Markham Valley, whose fertile soils give it the potential to be an agribusiness exporter. But the infrastructure needs to be developed for this to occur. Byrne says the Lae—Bulolo— Wau Highway is an important conduit for business and mining, but is badly in need of upgrading. He says it is vital to many smallscale coffee, cocoa and produce growers who are impeded from exporting their produce or coming down to market. All the offshoots off the Markham Highway also require work, he says. “If we get those roads built I see more smallholders getting better business principals and planning, which benefits the economy as a whole.” The International Finance Corporation, a sister organisation of the World Bank, is working on a plan to develop a business model that will suit local producers in the Markham Valley. Lack of infrastructure can be turned into a business opportunity. That has

been the approach taken by the Lae-based Papua New Guinea Forest Products, which, needing to develop its own power, has become both a forest products company and a power producer. (See our story, Page 114.) High crime rates have been a challenge in the past in Lae, but Kingston believes there have been improvements. “Law and order is probably the best it has been in years, which I think is a combination of improved employment and tougher policing. There is a very marked reduction in violent crime. Lae feels like a much safer place than it was a few years ago.”

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strictly business Economic sentiment on the rise

lae Business guide

Fresh horizons

NKW Fresh, a division of the landowner-owned conglomerate NKW Holdings, is providing fresh produce across PNG and is aiming to export in the region.


avid Stewart, divisional manager for Fresh Produce in NKW, says that the company has a moral duty to develop some economic opportunities for surrounding communities post-mine life for the Hidden Valley Mining Project in Wau. NKW’s fresh produce business was established in 2014. It was created to complement NKW’s catering services, and as part of a diversification strategy. NKW Holdings provides services to the mine project. Its operations include construction, consulting, catering, transportation and project management. The company employs over 1000 staff and has a net worth in excess of PGK200 million. NKW’s Fresh division sources produce from local smallholder vegetable farming households, which is then supplied to its

Many farmers are now earning in excess of PGK50,000 a year. catering service and other markets, including supermarkets and catering companies. NKW Fresh buys 60 metric tonnes of fresh produce each month and deals directly with smallholders, rather than traders, in order to include local farmers. “We now have the only effective cold chain (refrigeration) for fresh produce in PNG,” says Stewart. “We run two eight tonne refrigerated trucks up and down the Wau road in Hidden Valley coming back into Lae.”

Developing sufficient scale remains a persistent challenge, according to Stewart. “I often have to say to farmers: ‘I don’t want to buy six watermelons at five kina each’. We are not looking at the subsistence level; we need to bring the farmers into the commercial level. “I want to buy a ute-load of watermelons and give the farmer PGK100,000 a year.” Stewart adds that many farmers are now earning in excess of PGK50,000 a year. “Three to four years ago, it would have been less than PGK5000 a year,” he says. Stewart believes it is necessary to improve the supply chain if the division is to develop new markets. “We can’t just keep putting on farmers. At some stage what we need to be doing – and we have been trying to do this in the last

six months – is developing those farmers’ personal capital. “They need to start putting money aside for mechanising, and asking: ‘How do I make sure I get that amount again?’ “It is that personal capital that creates the disciplines that will produce a sustainable supply arrangement into our markets. “And it is starting to happen. We have got farmers starting to buy machinery, we have got farmers who are not spending their money but putting it aside for the bank.” The aim, says Stewart, is to export fresh produce from PNG into the South Pacific, Australia, Singapore, even into China. “That idea is very high on our radar – if it doesn’t remain high, then we don’t have goals. If we don’t have the goals, then we won’t put the right systems in place and we won’t keep pushing.” September – October 2019


strictly business Fresh horizons

lae Business guide

An eye on rice

Trukai Industries is pushing ahead with rice growing in the Morobe region.


reg Worthington-Eyre, chief executive of Trukai Industries, says there are significant opportunities for rice growing in the Morobe region. “We have done a lot of soil testing looking for a location,” he says. “We have narrowed it down to a few places and have determined

that 14 per cent of the land mass is suitable for rice development.” Most of the suitable land for rice, which requires a clay-based soil structure, already has had oil palm on it, for many decades in some cases, he says. Finished product … locally grown Trukai rice on the shelves.

Lae (Head Office) T: (675) 478 3000 E: Pom (Office) T: (675) 321 1288

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strictly business Fresh horizons “We nailed it down to Morobe Province at a place called Ube, towards Goroka. We found a village prepared to work with us to establish the first commercial rice production.” Geographical proximity to markets remains an issue. “You couldn’t just do it (rice growing) anywhere because once you grow it, what do you do with it?” In 2016, says WorthingtonEyre, Trukai launched Ube as the first commercial site for rice development in PNG, planting 280 hectares. In the first harvest, in 2018, the yield was not as good as hoped. “We had problems with pest management – a little beast called brown hopper.” Worthington-Eyre says the company has substantially improved its

The company has substantially improved its yields at its 280-hectare project at Umi in the Markham Valley.

lae Business guide

yields at its 280-hectare project at Umi in the Markham Valley. Yields on the recent crop, he says, were up between 3.2 and 3.4 times that of last year. Port handling charges in PNG have risen sharply, he says. “When people talk about moving product around the country, and even to import or export, you have got to get through some of the highest charges in the world for port management facilities – which I think dilutes value and dilutes the opportunity. “It is fantastic if you have $US5 million dollars in your container but if it is less than $US100,000 you have to question whether it is worth pursuing.” Developing good relationships with the landowners represents

another challenge. Worthington-Eyre says one of the major constraints the company faces is dealing with land titles. “When you have villages that have been owned under customary title and then all of a sudden something happens with that land, then all and sundry come out of the woodwork looking for a slice of the cherry. “That often forces land disputes and everything then gets locked up in the court system.” Worthington-Eyre says the company comes in and pays for everything: seed, infrastructure, herbicides, pesticides, land preparation and harvesting.

September – October 2019


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lae Business guide

In for the long haul Logistics company iPi is investing from its reserves to improve its future capabilities.


he iPI group is a diversified provider of logistics solutions that started operations in Papua New Guinea in the early 1980s. It was initially associated with

the Porgera gold mine, but chief executive Scott O’Reilly says it then diversified its operations through synergies, providing more services to its existing clients and geographic diversification.

“We have managed over the years to prove our worth around the country and beyond,” he says. O’Reilly says the company has faced significantly tighter trading conditions since the end of the

build phase of the PNG LNG gas project in 2014–15. “The ongoing tightness with foreign exchange causes daily issues, and this flows through to client business as well. “The net effect is a market driven

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124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Tel Fax Mobile Email

472 7910 Head Office 472 7908 Lae 70428092

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lae Business guide

Diversified ... iPi at work; chief executive Scott O’Reilly (in orange jacket).

strongly on price sensitivity. This is not always the ideal condition when innovation, efficiency, proactivity and extreme attention to quality are a focus for us. “It is obvious that to invest back into business efficiencies requires the finance to do so, and in a very price-sensitive market that can be a challenge. “We are taking a longer-term view by continuing to invest from our reserves so as to better our capabilities.” O’Reilly says in a diversified business, operational challenges can vary. “It is different depending upon whether it relates to trucking, to warehousing, to catering, to property management or to hotel operation.”

We have managed over the years to prove our worth around the country and beyond. The difficulties obtaining foreign exchange have become “a real cost to doing business” he acknowledges. But he believes the company has enough capital reserves to withstand the stresses. “We see the (foreign exchange problems) as a competitive barrier to entry for those who might challenge us.” O’Reilly says he is looking for growth to come from improvements to internal efficiency, synergistic expansion and further diversification. “We will look to do

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what we presently do, but better; we will look to offer more services to existing clientele, and we will look to diversify, either through tender or purchases of businesses. “I am a believer in growing from a core rather than opportunistic growth and so any moves will fit within a model of building from a stable, well resourced core rather than pursuing an operational direction that is previously unknown to us.” O’Reilly is proud of what the company has achieved, especially • Real Estate Agents • Property Sales – Residential – Commercial – Industrial • Property Management • Auctioneers • Valuers

its partnering with the Porgera mine in building an airstrip, the flyin-fly-out accommodation village, and supplying all the bricks for the underground tunnelling. The company has offered financial support to rugby, church groups, schools and for medical needs. “We have created bursaries that provide ongoing educational support,” O’Reilly says. “We’ve placed females into once male-dominated areas and we’ve supported women in business. “We’ve provided dividends, year in and out, to give a future for many thousands of our people – through trading periods that were buoyant, and through trading periods that are extremely difficult.”

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September – October 2019



human resources special

Job satisfaction … an employee happy at work at Paradise Foods in Port Moresby. Experts say offering opportunities for advancement and self-improvement are key to retaining workers.

HR strategies for PNG

David James reports how PNG businesses are taking local cultural considerations into account in the management of their staff.


anaging people effectively is the most important task facing any business or organisation, and Papua New Guinea is no exception. But human resources management is very different in a country that has less than 20 per cent of the population in formal employment. It requires distinct strategies that are suited to the local culture. One of the challenges is the tribal diversity of the country, evident in the fact that PNG has one-third of the world’s living languages, reflecting how different the local cultures are.

A common approach is to develop a single internal culture within the organisation. That is the approach of technology services company Datec. “The national staff come from different tribes,” says chief executive Stanley Ng Plyler. “There are more than 800 tribes speaking different languages. Outside the organisation our national staff have their different cultures, but inside we are all one Datec family.” A similar method is used by Capital Insurance Group. Group chief executive officer Keith Land says a lot of work is being done

126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

with people and culture, including offsite meetings. Land says the HR strategy is to develop a compelling narrative about the company. “We have got a wall, about four-metres square, in which we now have individual colleagues marking up what is the best thing that has happened in the last 12 months. We are capturing our story to inform our future.” Another approach is taken by New Britain Palm Oil (NBPOL), which works in partnership with local farmers. Ian Orrell, group head of sustainability at NBPOL, says the company is the largest employer in

the country, after the government, with almost 25,500 permanent employees on the payroll. “These are not temporary employees or linked to contractors and subcontractors. These are full-time employees. And, of all of these, only 106 expatriates, or 0.4 per cent. The rest being PNG nationals.” NBPOL has developed a successful HR strategy that uses, rather than attempts to replace, the local culture and history. “Smallholders are an extremely important part of NBPOL’s upstream operations. We support 17,500 smallholder farms, many of which have co-resident families: an estimated total population of about 150,000. Smallholders represent about a third of our crop production.” In the resources industry, the HR challenges can be extreme. Witness the Porgera gold mine, which is world class but also difficult to operate. Dealing with locals who are not part of the formal economy is a constant challenge. Ila Temu, executive director for Barrick (Niugini), says in 2018, on average, about 500 illegal miners were on the floor of the pit in the mine each day. “If the number of illegals is bigger, the mine stops operating. We move our people away until we clear the situation. This impacts us every day in hours lost in production, because of their presence.” The biggest HR challenge is the difficulty in finding, and keeping, skilled workers. Michael Kingston, chief executive of manufacturer KK Kingston, believes it is critical to invest in training staff, even though there is a risk they may leave. “All human beings share a common desire to better their lot in life. Papua New Guinean nationals are

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no different. If an employer does not offer opportunities for self-improvement and advancement, then you are almost guaranteed to lose that staff member. Investing in training, and offering opportunities for advancement, are good for staff retention. “Cast aside preconceptions, and measure your staff retention rates, before forming a view. You may be surprised at what you find. If, however, the data does support the hypothesis that staff tend to leave once qualified, it is worth asking why. If your staff are leaving after having received substantial training, there is a reason for it. You need to know what that is.” Stephen Mead, PNG country manager for recruitment, payroll management and training agency

human resources special

There are more than 800 tribes speaking different languages. Outside the organisation our national staff have their different cultures, but inside we are all one Datec family. Peopleconnexion, says increased use of the mobile phone is changing the way recruitment is conducted. “Mobile phones have become a great equaliser, giving us access to talent situated anywhere. Candidates are now socially connected, which is why it is so important to have clear employer branding and candidate management strategies in place.

“Technology has evolved so quickly that we no longer need to be in the same room as candidates and hiring managers. Apps like Skype, WhatsApp, Zoom and Facebook Messenger allow us to call candidates and clients on remote sites. With faster internet being introduced to PNG, video technology will only continue to shape our experience.

“Search and assessment algorithms are more sophisticated. Technology can now find and assess a candidate’s CV against the job, putting together a short list within 20 minutes. Artificial intelligence chatbots are now able to answer candidates’ questions about the job and interview them on the spot.” Mead says it is important to seek feedback from new employees within the first week of their joining, to see if the job advertisement fits the role, how prompt and effective communication has been and if the employee has been introduced to the company’s values. “Technology will never be able to replace the power of human connection,” he says.

September – October 2019


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human resources special

Bridging the gender gap in PNG business Gender inequality is not just a social issue in Papua New Guinea; it is a business issue. Gabriella Munoz explores what businesses can do to make a difference.

Fraser Hawkins … says businesses need to recognise equal opportunity (above); Wendy Bart, the first female production supervisor at Oil Search, with Peter Botten, the chief executive of Oil Search (opposite page).


t’s no secret that PNG has a gender inequality problem. The country is one of five countries worldwide that doesn’t mandate maternity leave, and statistics show that over twothirds of Papua New Guinean women will be victims of gender-based violence. Every year, staff miss an average of 11 days of work to deal with issues arising from family and sexual violence. This costs PNG businesses between two and nine per cent of their salary bills.

But strategies can be put in place to reduce these numbers and help to bridge the gender gap in the country. “Businesses need a clear strategy for gender as an integral part of its growth plans,” says Fraser Hawkins, the regional manager PNG and Asia Pacific for Peopleconnexion. “Businesses need to embed organisational cultures that

“One big step is looking into training for recruiters – so they can be aware of any bias they may have in hiring and ensure they don’t hire according to that bias,” he says. “Recruitment is only one aspect of stepping towards equality. It’s a complex issue that will involve looking at training, retention, health and ultimately education – it needs to be a collaborative solution. “Lack of women in leadership, gender violence and safety are

More and more businesses are realising the economic benefits of empowering women in the workplace. recognise equal opportunity and ability,” he says. Hawkins suggests that one of the first steps towards bridging the gap is to look at remuneration objectively and to address any gaps that have formed between men’s and women’s pay. He adds that human resources companies can also work towards gender equality.

128 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

three key issues that need to be addressed to increase participation of women in the workforce,” Hawkins says. That is why leadership, training and development programs are so important in the country. These seek to educate, inspire and support women to join the workforce or open their own small or medium enterprises.

Take, for example, what’s been done through the Women’s Micro Bank program. The bank has helped thousands of women open a bank account, save and get a loan to open a micro or small businesses. Edna Kusuba is one such case. She received three loans and in 2016 opened her own cocoa fermentory in Madang. Her story is one of many. Pacific Women Shaping Pacific Development (Pacific Women) is a 10-year Australian Government program to improve the political, social and economic opportunities of women in 14 Pacific countries, including PNG. The program started in 2012 and in PNG supports different activities to help end violence against women and promote women’s leadership and economic development. The Business Coalition for Women is a group of PNG companies working together to drive positive change for women and businesses in PNG. Its aim is to guarantee that all workplaces are safe and free from violence towards women.

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These initiatives are driving change. Several women with successful stories have drawn the attention of the media and of awards that recognise women in business. Awards such as the Westpac Outstanding Women (WOW) Awards or City Pharmacy Limited’s Pride of PNG Awards for Women aim to recognise and empower women in the country. Sophie Mangai was recognised last year during the Pride of PNG Awards for Women. She is the president of the East Sepik Council of Women and promotes gender equality in the region. She has become a role model for other women. Hawkins says role models contribute towards motivating and inspiring. “There has been more

advocacy work by government and civil societies in the last five years promoting equal and gender participation in the economy,” he says. Perhaps the most important achievement is that women are now being appointed to high-profile positions. Stacey O’Nea (CEO of the Port Moresby Chamber of Commerce and Industry), Lesieli Taviri (CEO at Origin Energy PNG), Fiona J Nelson (GM Commercial at Oil Search), Kalyna Taule (biodiversity advisor at ExxonMobil PNG), Wendy Bart (first female production supervisor at Oil Search) and many more women are leading the way and paving the road for the next generation. “More and more businesses are realising the economic benefits

human resources special

of empowering women in the workplace. Such businesses are reforming their strategy to focus on equal participation of women,” says Hawkins.

“A shift may be starting. But it really takes everyone getting on board and acknowledging any biases.”

September – October 2019


Brain gym quiz, puzzles, crossword



Tackle either set of these clues – you can even mix and match them, because the solutions are the same for both sets.

Find all the words listed hidden in the grid of letters. They can be found in straight lines up, down, forwards, backwards or even diagonally.


CRYPTIC CLUES ACROSS 1. On this simple way everything’s a breeze (4,6) 6. “Am mature!” claimed hobbyist (7) 7. Bird inside another one (5) 9. Memos on what makes up the score (5) 10. Referred to umpire leaving - he went astray (5) 11. Stand opposite the first plane (5) 12. Mentioning sick bird of prey is not allowed (7) 13. Scared about her gift, Ned? (10) DOWN 1. Youth in Asia speak up about mercy killing (10) 2. Narrator who made store eat Ella noisily (11)

3. Language used at Harlem inquisition (7) 4. He makes sure his customers are powerfully connected (11) 5. A thousand dollars to stay on your feet where racegoers usually sit (10) 8. Piece of foliage hired out as brochure (7)

STRAIGHT CLUES ACROSS 1. Financially secure situation (4,6) 6. Unpaid sportsman (7) 7. Egret (5) 9. Observes (5) 10. Made mistakes (5) 11. Gem side (5) 12. Against the law (7) 13. Fearful (10)

130 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine






DOWN 1. Assisted suicide (10) 2. Raconteur (11) 3. From Madrid (7) 4. Wiring expert (11) 5. Act ostentatiously to impress (10) 8. Folded advertising sheet (7)









brain gym

puzzles SOLUTIONS, PAGE 132

The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION? 1. What are the three main languages spoken in Papua New Guinea? 2. Is the population of PNG eight, 10 or 12 million? 3. What is the name of PNG’s new prime minister? 4. What are you carrying if you have a basket full of kaukau and kumu? 5. PNG hosted last year’s APEC meeting, but do you know where the next meeting will be held, in November?

6. Can you rank these four national men’s soccer teams in order, according to the official FIFA world rankings: PNG, Iceland, Sri Lanka, Vanuatu? 7. How many stars are on Singapore’s flag: three, five or 15? 8. What is the name of the thickest noodles served in Japanese cuisine? 9. Where is Guadalcanal? 10. What is the currency of Vanuatu?

11. Where are you if you’re on the Star Ferry on Victoria Harbour? 12. What will you be eating if you order the Thai dish of tom yum?

15. Can you name this famous Papua New Guinean sportsperson, featured on the cover of Paradise in 2014?

13. Why do some people in Singapore roll a pineapple into their new house? 14. What is the name of the long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist or under the arm pits, and often worn in South-East Asia and the Pacific: barong, sarong or dugong?

Sudoku Fill the grid so that every column, every row and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. Rating:

Awilunga Estate | 9 Mile | Lae Phone: +675 475 1124/1246 +675 719 02313 w w w. c ro s s ro a d s h o t e l l a e . c o m September – October 2019


brain gym
















The Paradise Quiz 1. Tok Pisin, English and Hiri Motu. 2. Eight million. 3. James Marape. 4. Vegetables. 5. Santiago, Chile. 6. At the time of going to press, Iceland was ranked 40, Vanuatu 166, PNG 169 and Sri Lanka 202. 7. Five. 8. Udon. 9. Solomon Islands. 10. Vatu (VT). 11. Hong Kong. 12. Spicy soup. 13. According to Chinese superstition, it’s said to bring good fortune. 14. Sarong. 15. Sprinter Toea Wisil.

132 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Arrivals Lounge Papua New Guinea visitor guide

Out and about


A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call.

Port Moresby from the air … Harbour City in the foreground and the suburb of Konedobu nestling into the hills.

CLIMATE With the exception of the Highlands, Papua New Guinea has a warm tropical climate. The wet season in Port Moresby is from December to April.

COMMUNICATIONS Internet: Web access in Port Moresby has improved immensely in recent years. In other urban centres, you may still be relying on dial-up. For those staying longer, wireless internet, via a USB modem, is available. Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming more common at hotels, and is also available at Jacksons International Airport. Phone: International mobile phone roaming is possible in PNG

but it can be costly. A cheaper option is to buy a local SIM card and pre-paid credit (including data packs for smartphones).

ELECTRICITY The current in PNG is 240V AC 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs.

GETTING AROUND Airport transfers: For arrival/ departure in Port Moresby, any of the hotels listed in this guide will provide a complimentary transfer. Car hire: Deal with one of the international names and ask them to provide a driver (PGK450+ per day). With the poor state of roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/SUVs are recommended.

134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Taxis: Recommended firms are City Loop (1800 000), Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet (7220 7000). Domestic flights: Travelling within PNG often means taking an internal flight (for instance, you cannot drive between Port Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini offers passengers the chance to book (and for some flights, also to check in) online, but make sure you print out a copy of your receipt to show at check-in. Aircraft and helicopter charters are available for travel to remote locations.

HEALTH Serious medical conditions can be treated in Port Moresby at Pacific International Hospital and the Government Hospital, which have

24-hour emergency and critical care services. Some conditions may require treatment outside the country. Travellers should ensure they have adequate health cover (the cost of medical evacuation can reach $US30,000). Visitors should also note that malaria is prevalent in PNG and there have been cases of measles and tuberculosis.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY For St John Ambulance phone 111 or 7111 1234. St John provides 24-hour ambulance service in Port Moresby.

MONEY PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) have branches at Port Moresby’s international airport. ➤

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ATMs are located around Port Moresby, Lae and other urban centres.



Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s ritziest hotel has several places to eat. If you’re after fine dining, Bacchus is the place to go. For something more casual, go poolside to Deli KC. The Vue Restaurant, which has a buffet each morning and evening, as well as an a la carte menu, has stunning views. See pg.

PNG observes a number of public holidays unique to the country. In 2019, they include National Remembrance Day on Tuesday, July 23; National Repentance Day on Monday, August 26; and Independence Day on Monday, September 16.

SAFETY While the situation is not as bad as portrayed by some international media, you should always take precautions, especially at night.

TIME ZONE PNG has a single time zone, 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT.


Asia Aromas: Offering Chinese and Thai food by the water at Harbourside, this eatery has consistently good reviews on social media. Outdoor seating is available. A good spot for sunset drinks. Tel. +675 321 4780.

Visitor GUIDE

Aviat Club: The club is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Home-style meals include stirfries, toasted sandwiches and salt-and-pepper prawns. This is a great spot to sit at lunchtime under the shady mango trees, or in the air-conditioned bar. See Bel Cibo: A casual and affordable family style restaurant serving Italian-American at Vision City. See Crown Hotel: There are multiple eating options at Crown. The inhouse restaurant includes a buffet for breakfast (eggs cooked to order), as well as lunch and dinner. It’s one of the few restaurants in Port Moresby with gluten-free choices. The hotel also has fine

dining at the Rapala restaurant. See Daikoku: The extensive Japanese menu has teppanyaki, donburi bowls and a large range of sushi. Tucked away above the Stop n Shop shopping centre in Harbour City, chefs will whip up your meal at your table. See Duffy Cafe: Known for excellent coffee and homemade cafe-style food and bakery items, Duffy has three locations – at Harbourside, Gordons and Jacksons International Airport. See Dynasty at Vision City: This may be the biggest restaurant in Port Moresby. Its size, its chandeliers and its gold decor make it a favourite for balls,

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136 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

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dinners and parties. The menu is huge, too, with pages of Asian dishes. See Dynasty-Restaurant-VisionCity/148278471918956.

Visitor GUIDE

and Vietnam. Takeaway available. There’s also a sister restaurant, Fusion 2, in the far corner of the ANZ Bank Compound in Waigani. Tel. +675 7196 6666.

Element Bar and Restaurant … Asian fusion in a youthful atmosphere.

Edge by the Sea: The ‘Edge’ cafe was renovated in 2017 and has alfresco dining with a wonderful marina outlook from the ground floor at the Edge Apartments in Harbour City. Eggs benedict, burrito bowls, pork burgers and grilled snapper are among the breakfast and lunch menu favourites. There’s a mist water system in the alfresco area that can reduce the ambient air temperature by up to 10 degrees … perfect for those blistering-hot days. Tel. +675 7995 5263.

Moresby’s best value-for-money restaurants, offering seafood and other dishes from the Pacific Rim, curry, pastas, and a classic grill menu. It’s located next to the pool, set in Italian gardens. See

Ela Beach Hotel: The Beachside Brasserie aims to be one of Port

Element Bar and Restaurant: One of Port Moresby’s newest

restaurants, Element offers Asian fusion with excellent service. On Champion Parade, on the first level of MRDC Haus, it has modern decor and a huge balcony. Tel. +675 7252 8778. Fusion: This is one of the city’s busiest restaurants. It’s a fusion of flavours from China, Thailand

Gateway Hotel: The hotel’s dining options include Jackson’s Gaming–Restaurant–Bar, which has a rooftop bar with views of the airport, as well as claims to the best lamb rack in town. Sizzler’s Family Restaurant offers value dining, while Enzo’s Express does quick lunches, coffee and pizza. The hotel’s Departure Bar, next to the hotel lobby, is a comfortable and air-conditioned space to while away some transit hours in between flights. See Grand Papua Hotel: The elegant Grand Brasserie has an a la ➤

September – October 2019


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carte menu of modern European cuisine, as well as buffet options. The Grand Cafe, on Douglas Street, has barista-made Goroka coffee, fruit juices, freshly made salads and sandwiches. The Grand Bar – with stylish marble, high ceilings, timber floors and window shutters – has a light menu and is a popular place to wind down after work. See Hilton Port Moresby: The hotel has five eating areas including Mumu, which is named after the traditional earthen oven of PNG and serves traditionally inspired dishes. There’s also a top-floor lounge bar called Summit, cafestyle dining in Copper on the lobby level, all-day dining and a breakfast buffet at Feast, and quick bites, such as sandwiches and coffee,

at Halo in the convention centre foyer. See Tel. +675 750 1800. Hosi Ramen: As the name suggests, this Japanese restaurant at Vision City specialises in ramen (noodles served in broth with meat and vegetables). See Korean Garden: An affordable menu at Vision City that includes a do-it-yourself barbecue, as well as traditional favourites such as kimchi and gimbap. See Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for choice here with Spices (Indian), the Italian Restaurant,

138 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Visitor GUIDE

Rio’s at the Temple (Brazilian), Cafe Palazzo, Lanes Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s biggest nightclub, The Gold Club. See Magi Seafood Restaurant: A local secret on Spring Garden Road (same side as SP Brewery) with excellent Asian food, but specifically the best mud crab in town, which needs to be ordered 24 hours in advance. Tel. +675 323 3918. Mojo Social: This casual Mediterranean-inspired bar and restaurant is on the ground floor of PWC Haus at Harbour City. Tapas-style dishes, risotto and pizza are among the offerings. See Naked Fish: A seafood and steak restaurant at Harbourside. Great

spot for sunsets and the water views. Tel. +675 320 2293. Royal Papua Yacht Club: Relaxed, spacious and open to non-members. Comfort food, draught beer and an open-plan bar area showing sport on large screens. See Seoul House: This restaurant specialises in Korean and Thai food, cooked on the hot plate right in front of you. Seoul House is tucked away in a garden oasis compound in Five Mile. Tel. +675 325 2231. Sogno: This is a traditional Italian restaurant with pastas, risottos and pizzas served out of a stone oven at Harbourside. Tel. +675 320 0001. Stanley Hotel and Suites: This Waigani hotel has several ➤

arrivals lounge restaurant choices, including the fine-dining Silver Leaf and the chic tapas-style Monsoon Lounge. Green Haus restaurant has all-day dining, including buffet dinners with live cooking stations. See Tandoor on the Harbour: Come here for a curry with great bay views. See tandoorontheharbour. Tasty Bites: This Indian restaurant is tucked away in the town centre in Hunter Street near Crowne Plaza. Bookings recommended. Tel. +675 321 2222. Vision City: PNG’s first major shopping mall houses an increasing array of eateries. The cavernous Dynasty (Chinese) and the Ten (Japanese) are standouts. See

LAE Bunga Raya: This local favourite, serving Malaysian-style Chinese, is located next door to the Lae Golf Club. Be sure to try the stuffed lettuce cups, laksa and claypot tofu. Tel. +675 472 7177. Cafe 411: There’s a cosy atmosphere at this casual cafe next to Hotel Morobe on Coronation Drive. The Western-style menu includes finger foods and PNG coffee. Tel. +675 479 0100. Chigi’s Cafe: This delightful place inside the temporary Brian Bell store near the Lae main markets serves good coffee, milkshakes, sandwiches, cakes and salads. Tel. +675 7217 1966. Golden Aviat: A good option for Chinese, located on Huon Road

Visitor GUIDE

in Eriku. Open for lunch and dinner, and yum cha on Sundays. Tel. +675 472 0486.

Drive, offers breathtaking views of the city from its balcony. Tel. +675 479 0100.

Huon Club: This private members’ club offers airconditioned facilities, comfortable lounge chairs, an expansive deck overlooking the Lae Golf Club, a fully stocked bar and Foxtel to preview all the racing and sporting events. Tel. +675 7347 1058.

Lae Golf Club: The club is excellent for a few sundowners as you overlook the stunning green. Tel. +675 472 1363.

Lae City Cafe: Located in the Lae City Hotel on 3rd street, the cafe serves Western and Asian cuisine. The signature dishes include ribs and Nasi Goreng. Tel. +675 472 0138. Lae Garden Restaurant: The Asian menu includes staples such as crispy chicken and butter prawns. The elegant restaurant, inside Hotel Morobe on Coronation

Lae International Hotel: Home to three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian Pizza, Vanda and Kokomo – which serve an array of international cuisine, including Indian and seafood buffets. The Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) is a good place for a nightcap. See laeinterhotel. com. Tel. +675 472 7000. Lae Yacht Club: The perfect place for late-afternoon beers, or just as nice for a relaxing lunch. Serves pub-style food. See Tel. +675 472 4091.

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140 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

arrivals lounge Mountain View Restaurant: Located at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine Mile. Be sure to try the Japanese fusion menu – it’s the only place in town where you can get good sushi. See crossroads. Tel. +675 475 1124.

HOTELS PORT MORESBY Airways Hotel: Airways is within a large, secure compound next to Jacksons International Airport. An inspiring setting, luxurious rooms, excellent service and very good food options. See Tel. +675 324 5200. Citi Boutique Hotel: The Citi Boutique Hotel is in Boroko, a quiet residential area with shopping centres and sporting

facilities. It has 60 deluxe queen and twin rooms, a business centre, cable TV and free Wi-Fi. There’s also a day spa and beauty salon, restaurant, bar, karaoke room, and a rooftop terrace. The hotel provides free airport transfers. See citiboutiquehotel. com. Tel. +675 300 1300 Citi Serviced Apartments and Motel: There are two Citi Serviced Apartments and Motel properties, one block located at East Boroko and the other at Manu. They are set in safe and secure grounds. The apartments are fully kitted out. They include cable TV, free WiFi, washing machines, dryers, fridges, fans and air conditioning. Housekeeping is also provided. See Tel. +675 300 1300.

Visitor GUIDE

Crown Hotel: Upmarket rooms and suites in the heart of the CBD. Decent gym, business centre, undercover parking, thriving cafe and Mediterranean restaurant. See Tel. +675 309 3329. Ela Beach Hotel and Apartments: On the fringe of the CBD, this constantly expanding hotel/apartment complex is part of the Coral Sea Hotels group. See Tel. +675 321 2100. Gateway Hotel: Conveniently located just minutes from Jacksons International Airport, the hotel has a range of dining options, conference facilities, modern gym and two swimming pools. Free airport shuttles are available for guests. See pg. Tel. +675 327 8100.

Grand Papua: This premium hotel features 156 suite rooms (short and long stay), an executive floor, gym and conference facilities. The separate restaurant and bar areas are popular for business meetings. Centrally located. See Tel. +675 304 0000. Hilton Port Moresby: The capital city’s newest luxury hotel opened in late 2018 and is in the government district 10 minutes from the airport. There are five restaurants, an executive lounge, six meeting rooms, a convention centre, swimming pool and fitness centre. All rooms in the 15-storey hotel include floor-to-ceiling windows. The accommodation includes standard rooms, executive rooms and suites. See Tel. +675 750 18000. ➤

Lae (head office): Tel 675-472-3822 Fax 675-472-5193 Branches at: Port Moresby, Honiara, Brisbane, Nadi

September – October 2019


arrivals lounge

Holiday Inn: Located in Waigani, the large grounds include a walking track in a tropical garden setting, outdoor restaurant and bar area, business centre and gym. Includes three-star Holiday Inn Express hotel. See Tel. +675 303 2000. Laguna Hotel: The 60-room property is a five-minute drive from the heart of Port Moresby and features a lagoon-style pool, free airport transfers, free Wi-Fi and free buffet breakfast. See Tel. +675 323 9333. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the hotel has 24-hour free airport transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, a conference centre, restaurants, and the famous Gold Club. See Tel. +675 323 2333. Sanctuary Hotel Resort & Spa: The hotel is an oasis in the city, located 10 minutes from the airport in North Waigani. There is a lot of greenery in the hotel grounds and a large aviary, which includes the bird of paradise. The hotel, close to government offices, has a business centre, a day spa, swimming pool and a restaurant with a traditional PNG menu with a contemporary edge. It also has rooms and facilities with ramps for people with disabilities. Tel. +675 303 7400 Stanley Hotel and Suites: One of Port Moresby’s newest hotels, this is a luxurious 429room property in Waigani, close to government offices and

142 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Visitor GUIDE

embassies. It has 95 long-stay apartments, gym, pool, cafe, restaurants and an executive lounge. Connected to Vision City Mega Mall. See thestanleypng. com. Tel. + 675 302 8888. LAE Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room facility at Nine Mile. The hotel has a Japanese-themed teppanyaki restaurant with Asian/Western fusion menus, full bar service, a well-equipped gym, Wi-Fi and complimentary transfers to both Lae City and Nadzab Airport. See Tel. +675 475 1124. Hotel Morobe: A centrally located 38-room boutique property built in 2014. See Tel. +675 4790 100.

Lae City Hotel: Located in the main Top Town area, this hotel has 24-hour concierge and an excellent cafe and restaurant with Western and Asian cuisine. See Tel. +675 472 0138. Lae International Hotel: The city’s premier hotel has recently renovated rooms, full bar service, conference and banquet halls, a gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. com. Tel. +675 472 2000. Lae Travellers Inn: An affordable option, offering clean and comfortable rooms. Tel. +675 479 0411. n

arrivals lounge

Visitor GUIDE


Port Moresby

University of Papua New Guinea

Port Moresby Nature Park


iga ni D

To Motukea Island, the PNG LNG plant and Napa Napa Refinery



Eight Mile To Bomana War Cemetery





Royal Sanctuary Hotel Port Moresby Resort and Spa Golf Club National Museum Parliament Laguna Hotel Kumul F l y

ur r








Stanley Hotel

Vision City

Sir John Guise Stadium

Lamana Hotel

Port Moresby

Holiday Inn

City Hall W

Konedobu Sir Hubert Murray Stadium

Harbourside Crown Hotel Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Town APEC Haus





Hohola W


Royal Papua Yacht Club


G ing




Mur r ay Hw Centre er t y

Pacific International Hospital

Jacksons International Airport

Six Mile Airways Hotel Saraga

Four Mile


Taurama Aquatic


Air Niugini Haus Gateway Hotel

r iD

Harbour City


0 100 Km Hanuabada


The Star Mountain Plaza (Hilton Hotel)

Port Moresby Harbour



r am


Boroko Rd

Port Moresby

General Hospital Badili Korobosea Koki Two Mile Sabama Walter Bay 0 Km 1 Gabutu

September – October 2019


arrivals lounge

Visitor GUIDE

MINI GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more than 800 languages, but the three official languages are Tok Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we outline some Tok Pisin, which is the largest lingua franca of PNG. here do I find a taxi? W Bai mi painim taxi long we? One coffee with milk, please. Wanpela kap kopi wantaim milk plis. Where is the toilet? Toilet istap we?

How much is this? Hamas long dispela?

One beer, please. Wanpela bia plis.

Restaurant Ples bilong kaikai

Thank you very much. Tenkiu tru.

Why? Bilong wanem?

Goodbye Gutbai

ow many children do you H have? Yu gat hamaspla pikinini?

Hello Halo

Y ou understand English? Yu save long tok Inglis? here is my bag? W Bag bilong mi istap we?

here are you from? W Yu bilong wanem hap?

here can I change my W money? Wanem hap bai mi ken senisim moni bilong mi?

I don’t know. Mi no save.

Place Ples

hat do you want? W Yu laikim wanem samting?

Fish Pis

Water Wara Baggage Kago Airport Ples balus




2 Tu

3 Tri

144 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

4 Foa







8 Et

9 10



Welcome aboard Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service

Please ask us


If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them.

A selection of movies and music including classical, modern, country and local are available on international services.

Hand luggage Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original position in the seat back or the armrest.

Safety first Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely in case of unexpected turbulence.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic devices such as portable computers, compact discs or cassette players and video games can be used only when the seat belt sign is switched off.

Children and babies The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly cabin crew.

Smoking Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight.

Pillows and blankets On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Cuisine Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when making your reservation.

In-flight Duty Free During the flight take some time to look through our In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Immigration and Customs Forms During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute Immigration and Custom forms before each landing point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these documents and have them ready for inspection with your passport at the Immigration and Customs arrival counters.

Before you leave Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service.

Air Niugini fleet

B767-300ER - Boeing

F70 - Fokker

Length: 59.94m Wing span: 47.57m Range: 8100km Cruising speed: 857kph Power plant: 2 x PW4000

Length: 30.91m Wing span: 28.08m Range: 3410km Cruising speed: 743kph Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15

Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Standard seating capacity: 188 Business class: 28 Economy class: 160 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2

B737-800 - Boeing Length: 39.5m Wing span: 35.79m Range: 8100km Cruising speed: 857kph Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26

DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Normal altitude: 11300m Standard seating capacity: 144 Business class: 16 Economy class: 128 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2

B737-700 - Boeing Length: 33.6m Wing span: 35.79m Range: 6370km Cruising speed: 830kph Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22

turbo-fan engines

Normal altitude: 11000m Standard seating capacity: 76 Business class: 6 Economy class: 70 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5

Length: 25.7m Wing span: 24.4m Range: 1700km Cruising speed: 510kph

Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Normal altitude: 7500m Standard seating capacity: 50 Number of aircraft in fleet: 3

DHC-8-202 - Bombardier Normal altitude: 11300m Standard seating capacity: 116 Business class: 12 Economy class: 104 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1

F100 - Fokker Length: 35.528m Wing span: 28.076m Range: 3000km Cruising speed: 780kph Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650

Length: 22.25m Wing span: 25.89m Range: 1800km Cruising speed: 550kph

Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Normal altitude: 7600m Standard seating capacity: 36 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2

Falcon 900EX - Dassault Normal altitude: 11000m Standard seating capacity: 101 Business class: 8 Economy class: 93 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7

Length: 20.21m Wing span: 19.33m Range: 4500nm Cruising speed: 650mph

Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Maximum altitude: 51000ft Standard seating capacity: 12 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1

Inflight entertainment Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights

© 1999 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2007 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. MARVEL © 2019 MARVEL



The Darjeeling Limited

Fight Club

Genre: Fantasy, Action, Sci-Fi

Genre: Drama

Genre: Adventure, Comedy, Drama

Genre: Action, Thriller

Rating: M Stars: James McAvoy, Michael Fassbender, Jennifer Lawrence When Jean Grey is struck by a mysterious cosmic force that transforms her into the iconic Dark Phoenix, the X-Men must unite to face their most devastating enemy yet – one of their own.

Rating: PG Stars: Chrissy Metz, Josh Lucas, Topher Grace When Joyce Smith’s adopted son John falls through an icy Missouri lake, all hope seems lost. But as John lies lifeless, Joyce refuses to give up.

Rating: M Stars: Owen Wilson, Adrien Brody, Jason Schwartzman After the death of their father, three estranged American brothers share a train ride across India in search of their mother.

Rating: R 18+ Stars: Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Helena Bonham Carter Sick of his dead-end existence, Jack encounters an intriguing stranger who alters his relationship with reality.

© 2019 “A Long Goodbye” Film Partners

© 2019 WBEI

© 2014 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2014 MARVEL & Subs.

X-Men: Dark Phoenix

X-Men: Days of Future Past


A Long Goodbye

Genre: Comedy, Romance

Genre: Fantasy, Action, Sci-Fi

Genre: Thriller

Genre: Drama, Family

Rating: M Stars: Diane Lane, John Cusack, Elizabeth Perkins Divorced and dateless for two years, Sarah Hurlihy sets out to change her single status when she bravely answers an online personals ad.

Rating: M Stars: Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart, Jennifer Lawrence The ultimate X-Men ensemble fights a war for the survival of the species across two time periods. The characters from the original X-Men film trilogy join forces with their younger selves from the past.

Rating: M Stars: Ayushmann Khurrana, Tabu, Radhika Apte Aakash, a blind pianist, is invited to play a private gig at the home of a yesteryear actor, when he becomes privy to the aftermath of a cold-blooded murder.

Rating: Not available Stars: Tsutomu Yamazaki, Chieko Matsubara, Yuko Takeuchi Shohei reveals to his family he is suffering from dementia. Although distressed, the family discovers he still has a happy memory.


The Girl in the Orange Dress


Genre: Drama, Mystery

Genre: Comedy, Romance

Genre: Adventure, Fantasy, Comedy

Rating: M Stars: Sean Lau, Nick Cheung, Karena Lam A multi-year Hong Kong anti-corruption investigation threatens to fall apart after a key witness flees to Australia.

Rating: PG Stars: Jericho Rosales, Jessy Mendiola, Derek Ramsay Anna, a traditional type of girl, wakes up in a hotel room with the biggest actor in the country, Rye. Having no memory of how she got there, she must get out of the hotel to avoid the fans and media.

Rating: M Stars: Zachary Levi, Mark Strong, Asher Angel We all have a superhero inside us, it just takes a bit of magic to bring it out. In Billy Batson’s case, by shouting out one word – SHAZAM – this foster kid can turn into the adult superhero Shazam.

148 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics

Must Love Dogs

Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers Genre: Adventure, Fantasy

Rating: M Stars: Elijah Wood, Ian McKellen, Viggo Mortensen Frodo and the other members of the Fellowship continue on their sacred quest to destroy the One Ring, but on separate paths.

© 1999 Fox and its related entities. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

Copyright: © 2019 WBEI.

© 2019 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved.


Better Things



Genre: Comedy

Genre: Comedy

Genre: Drama

Genre: Comedy

Episode: The D&D Vortex Stars: Johnny Galecki, Jim Parsons, Kaley Cuoco When the gang finds out that Wil Wheaton hosts a celebrity Dungeons & Dragons game involving William Shatner, Joe Manganiello and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, deception and betrayal are the path to the one open seat.

Episode: No Limits Stars: Pamela Adlon, Mikey Madison, Hannah Alligood Sam unleashes on gynacologists and go-carts, and lets Frankie and Duke unleash on each other.

Episode: Careless Whisper Stars: Sullivan Stapleton, Jaimie Alexander, Rob Brown An author’s obsession with the team puts them in the cross-hairs of a deadly killer.

Episode: Space Pilot 3000 Stars: Billy West, John DiMaggio, Katey Sagal A pizza delivery boy named Fry awakens from a state of suspended animation and finds himself in a futuristic world populated by aliens, robots and spaceships.

© 2018-2019 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics

© 2019 NBC Universal Entertainment Cable Group. All rights reserved.

The Big Bang Theory


Queen of the South


Genre: Drama

Genre: Drama

Genre: Comedy

Episode: Legend of the Dark Knight: Year Zero Stars: Ben McKenzie, Donal Logue, David Mazouz Jim Gordon and Bruce Wayne face the chaos Gotham City has become. Their mission to keep the city safe becomes more complicated as the villains who survived the attack on the city begin to resurface.

Episode: Bienvenidos a Nueva Orleans Stars: Alice Braga, Veronica Falcón, Peter Gadiot Teresa expands her business and proves herself to a smuggler who offers her a business opportunity.

Episode: Game Night Stars: Minnie Driver, John Ross Bowie, Cedric Yarbrough When Maya insists that it’s time to meet Izzy, a reluctant JJ arranges a game night for his family and new girlfriend.

Red White Black & Blue Odyssey Genre: Documentary, Sports

A documentary following ICEF Rugby, a program dedicated to South Los Angeles inner-city high school children through head coach and founder Stuart Krohn. The documentary chronicles the girls and boys as they journey around the world to compete.


Mark Ronson

Bruce Springsteen

DJ Kahled

Genre: Pop

Genre: Pop

Genre: Pop

Ronson has described this album as a collection of “sad bangers”. It features collaborations with a diverse range of artists including Camila Cabello, Alicia Keys, Miley Cyrus and YEBBA.

The Boss describes his 19th studio album as “a return to my solo recordings featuring character-driven songs and sweeping, cinematic orchestral arrangements”.

DJ Khaled is an American DJ, record executive, songwriter, record producer and media personality. His new album features 15 tracks and 29 performers, including collaborations with Cardi B, 21 Savage and Meek Mill.

Late Night Feelings

Western Stars

Father of Asahd

Ziana Zain

Greatest Hits Ziana Zain Genre: Golden Hits

Ziana Zain is a Malaysian pop singer-songwriter, model, entrepreneur and actress. Taking the local music scene by storm in the early ‘90s, she was crowned Voice of Asia in Kazakhstan in 1995.


Imaga Omoideni Narumade (Complete Edition) Genre: Pop

This is the fourth original album by JPop All-Girl supergroup Nogizaka46, a Japanese female idol group.

Eric Chou

The Chaos After You Genre: Pop

Chou is a Taiwanese singer-songwriter. He has been dubbed by the Taiwanese media as ‘the king of the lovelorn people’ for his heartfelt love ballads.

September – October 2019


Your health inflight At Air Niugini we care about your comfort and safety. We have included the following information about your health in-flight that we hope you will find helpful and useful. When you are flying you can be seated and be inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and pressurised up to an altitude of 2240 metres above sea level. Unlike other forms of transportation, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, causing a disruption to the body’s “biological clock”. Although these unique factors do not pose a health or safety threat to most passengers, there are guidelines you can follow that will improve your comfort level, during and after a flight. We hope the following recommendations will help you have a more pleasant flight today and in the future.

Blood Circulation / Muscle Relaxation When you’re sitting upright in a stationary position for a long period of time, several things can happen. The central blood vessels in your legs can be compressed, making it more difficult for the blood to get back to your heart.

Immobilisation for a day or more Increasing age above 40 years Pregnancy Recent major surgery or injury, especially to lower limbs or abdomen Oestrogen hormone therapy, including oral contraceptives Dehydration Heart failure Trauma Varicose veins Obesity Tobacco smoking

Recommendations If you fall into any of these categories or you have any concern about your health and flying, Air Niugini recommends you seek medical advice before travelling. Follow our in-flight exercises programme.

The long inactivity of your body muscles in this position can result in muscle tension, back aches or a feeling of excessive fatigue during, or even after, your flight.


A stationary position inhibits the normal body mechanism for returning fluid to your heart, and gravity can cause the fluid to collect in your feet. This results in swollen feet after a long flight.

The main cause of jetlag is travelling to different time zones without giving the body a chance to adjust to new night-day cycles. In general, the more time zones you cross during your flight, the more your biological clock is disturbed.

Studies have concluded that prolonged immobility may be a risk factor in the formation of clots in the legs (DVT - deep vein thrombosis). Particular medication and medical conditions may increase the risk of formation of clots if associated with prolonged immobility.

The common symptoms are sleeplessness, tiredness, loss of appetite or appetite at odd hours.

Medical research indicates that factors which may give you an increased risk of blood clots in the legs include:

Arrive at your destination a day or two early, to give your body a chance to become more acclimatised to the new time zone.

Former or current malignant disease Blood disorders leading to increased clotting tendency Personal or family history of DVT

Recommendations Get a good night’s rest before your flight.

Leave your watch on home time if you’re staying at a destination less than 48 hours. Also try to eat and sleep according to your home time.

Change your watch to the local time if your stay is longer than 48 hours, and try to eat and sleep in accordance with the local time. On longer stays, try to prepare in advance, adjust your meal and rest times to be closer to those of your destination. Try some light exercise - go for a brisk walk, or do some reading if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed. Fly direct to minimise flight time. This allows you to relax more upon arrival.

Cabin Humidity / Dehydration Humidity levels of less than 25 percent are common in the cabin. This is due to the extremely low humidity levels of outside air supplied to the cabin. The low humidity can cause drying of the nose, throat, eyes and it can irritate contact lens wearers.

Recommendations Drink water or juices frequently during the flight Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration. Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated. Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin.

Cabins are pressurised to a maximum cabin altitude of 2440 metres. It is the same air pressure as if you were at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level. The cabin pressure and normal rates of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent do not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from upper respiratory or sinus infections, obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort. Children and infants might experience some discomfort because of pressure change during climb and descent. If you are suffering from nasal congestion or allergies, use nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages. If you have a cold or flu or hay fever your sinuses could be impaired. Swollen membranes in your nose could block your eustachian tubes-the tiny channels between your middle ear chamber. This can cause discomfort during changes in cabin pressure, particularly during descent.

Recommendations If you have a pre-existing medical condition that warrants supplemental oxygen, you can order from us. Please give at least seven days notice before travelling. To “clear” your ears try swallowing and/or yawning. These actions help open your eustachian tubes, equalizing pressure between your ear chamber and your throat. When flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing will help infants equalize the pressure in their ears.

Eating and Drinking

Motion Sickness

Proper eating and drinking will enhance your comfort both during and after your flight.

Avoid overeating just prior to and during the flight. It is difficult to digest too much food when the body is inactive.

This ailment is caused by a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Air turbulence increases its likelihood because it can cause movement of the fluid in the vestibular apparatus of the inner ear. If you have good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on non-moving object), motion sickness is less likely to occur.

Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration.



Cabin Pressurisation It is necessary to pressurise the outside air drawn into the cabin to a sufficient density for your comfort and health.

When weather is clear and you can see the ground, sea or horizon, you are less susceptible to motion sickness. You can buy over the counter medications but we recommend that you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications.

















BRISBANE SYDNEY Current routes Future route

Air Niugini International Offices AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Australia Wide

Local Call: 1300 361 380


Level 3, 97 Creek Street GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Email:


Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870


Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Email:


Somare House 100 Clarence Street PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email:


3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City, Philippines Tel: (63 2) 891 3339 / 40 / 41 Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Email:

AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Auckland, New Zealand Walshes World Group Ltd

Tel: (64) 9977 2230 Email:

Colombo, Sri Lanka Jetwing Air

Tel: (94) 1 1234 5700 Email: Email:

Frankfurt, Germany Aviareps AG

Tel: (49) 89 5525 3346 Email:

Hong Kong Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Email:








Honiara, Solomon Islands Travel Industry Services Tel: (677) 2 2586 Email:

Jakarta, Indonesia PT Ayuberga

Tel: (622) 1835 6214 / 216 Email:

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Abadi Aviation Services

Tel: (603) 2148 9500 / 2142 6360 Email: Email:

London, United Kingdom Flight Directors Tel: (44) 12 9387 4985 Email: airniugini@

New York, USA Airline Pros

Tel: (1) 20 1526 7720 Email:

Noumea, New Caledonia Axxess Travel

Tel: (687) 28 6677 Email: axxesstravelreservation@

Paris, France Aviareps SARL

Tel: (33) 1 5343 7905 Email: Email: reservationPX.France

Pohnpei, FSM House of Travel

Tel: (691) 320 5888 Email:

Port Vila, Vanuatu Vanuatu Travel Services

Tel: (678) 2 2836 Email: Email: estella@vanuatutravelservices.

Rome, Italy Spazio SRL

Suva, Fiji Discount Flight Centre

Seoul, Korea Sharp Aviation K.Inc

Taipei, Taiwan Cha May Travel Services

Tel: (39) 0 6498 5621 Email:

Tel: (82) 2318 2112 Email:

Singapore Deks Air Singapore

Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Email: Email:

Tel: (679 ) 331 7870 / 7871 Email:

Tel: (02) 2515 2028 Email: decwetwn@

Tokyo, Japan Alconet Corporation

Tel: (81) 3 5733 7109 Email:

Your wellbeing

These exercises are designed to encourage a safe way to enjoy movement and stretch certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective in increasing the body’s circulation and massaging the muscles. We recommend you do these exercises for three or

four minutes every hour and occasionally get out of your seat and walk down the aisles if conditions allow. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of the following should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.







Lift feet off the floor: Draw a circle with toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counter clockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20-30 times for each leg.

Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward using a gentle circular motion.

Start with arms held high at 90° angle elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down alternating arms. Do these exercises in 30 second intervals.

Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

With both feet on the floor and stomach held in slowly, bend forward to walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.





Raise both arms straight up and over your head. With one hand grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat other side.

Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow towards shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat other side.

With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about 5 seconds. Repeat 5 times.

Foot motion is in three stages.

2. Put both feet flat on the floor.

3. Lift heels high, keeping balls of feet on floor. Continue these three stages with continuous motion in 30 second intervals.

1. Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.


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