Paradise Magazine Issue 141 September 2000

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Publisher: Sir Mekere Morauta

Editor: Roslyn Morauta

Production: Dianne Mcinnes

Editorial Board Member: Eva Arni (Air iugini)

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Articles express the op ini o n of th e au th ors and not necessarily of Air Niugini or Morauta & Associates. Editorial contributions wi ll be handled with reasonable care. The publi s he r, however, ass um es n o responsibility for the safety of photographs. artwork or manuscripts.

INDEPENDENCE

OLYMPIC TORCH RELAY

Owen's Corner to Sir John Guise Stadium

CREATIVE WRITING

Kumul

DIVING IN KAVIENG

Incredible diversity of sealife

BOOK REVIEWS

Lonely Planet tours the Pacific

PHOTOGRAPH COMPETITION

Orchid

OUR PRIME MINISTER

A career in public service

INDEPENDENCE DAY IN NEW ZEALAND

A day for wantoks

DESTINATION - Singapore

The old and the new , but always food

INDEPENDENCE DAY IN MARGARIMA Fun and bilas

LOCAL GOURMET FOOD

Banana Party!

ON BOARD

lnflight 46 Ha ve Fun!

Air Niugini Fleet 57 Audio Entertainment

Domestic Route Map 59 Films

International Route Map 60 Duty Free Shopping

Air Niugini Offices 64 Touri st lnfo1mation

Cover: Prim e Minister Hon Sir Mekere Morawa

li g htin g the Ol ympic cauldro n Photograph: Ro cky Roe

On 16th September Papua New Guinea celebrates the 25 years of Ind epende n ce . A ir Niug ini is proud t o be a major sponsor of th e Silver Jubil ee ce leb rati ons and acti1 ities organised by th e Nationol E1 •e11ts Council.

The silver jubilee logo is displayed 011 a ll our ai rcraft, se n ding th e message of the cet'ebratirms throughout the co wm y and 01 ·erseas.

This issue of Paradise features our first Ind ependence Day, in 1975, and ivays that Papua New Guineans celebrate the even t every yea,; here in Papua New Guinea amd also abroad.

The other major event in our region in September is the Sydney Olympics. Papu a New Guinea was chose n by the Olympics Organising Committee to participate in the Oceania leg of the Torch R elay.

Apart from affording Papua New Guinea the opportun ity to be intim a te ly in vo l ved in the world wide Olympic movement, the day of th e relay gm •e us a chance to showcase to the ivorld the essence of our cowwy - a rich, diverse array of cultu res, of trad iti o nal arr, dance, dress and music.

Hon Vincent Auali, MP • Minister for Privatisation & Corporate Affairs

Coral Sea Hotels and Budget Rent A Car have formed a great partnership that offers you tremendous savings when you take up our accommodation and car hire package.

Inclusions : Accommodation and Budget Rent A Car for each day of stay

Payments : Cash or Credit Card

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K239 rate applies Monday - Friday All rates are exclusive of l 0% VAT Central Reservations

TEL :325 4111 FAX : 325 4585

Independence 1975

16 Se pt emb er 2000 ma r ks t he 25t h anni versar y of Papua ew G u inea·s ind epend ence. Th e th eme chose n b y th e G ove rnm ent fo r th e Sil ve r Jubil ee i s ' Walking togeth e r' , ' Wokabaut Wantaim ', ' Raka Hebou '.

Ce l ebr ati o ns w ill be he ld all around th e co untr y and ove r seas w her e Papu a ew G uin ea has dipl o m ati c repre entati o n Th e ati o nal Eve nt s Co un c il. chai red by Peter B art er, pl ans a ran ge of ac ti v iti es in c ludin g ente1tainm ent by c ultural gro ups. strin g band an d c hoi r co mp etiti ons, an es ay co mp etiti o n, a pos ter co mp etiti o n and spec i al medi a suppl ements.

Sil ve r Jubil ee meda l s w ill be awarded to peop le wo r k i ng for th e betterm ent o f Papu a New G uin ea and a Youn g Ac hi eve r Award Scheme w ill be esta bli shed to cove r aca demi a ai t s. bu sin ess and spo lt. ln Po11 Mo resby, th e Fl ag Rai in g Ceremo ny at Ind epend ence Hill in th e mo rnin g. a Para de, th e F l agL owe rin g Ce r em o ny in th e l ate aftern oo n at Sir Jo hn Gui se Stad ium and a fi rewo r ks d i spl ay w ill be th e hi g hli g ht eve nt s o f th e 2 5'" Independ ence D ay.

As a tri bute we devo te pait of thi s i ss ue of Paradi se to th e ce l ebra ti o ns th at start ed o ur co untr y o n th e roa d to nati o nho od. A s will be th e ca se for th e Sil ve r Jubil ee. th e ce l ebra ti o ns in 1975 we re held over a nu mber of day - th ese in c lud ed a D ay of Sp o it , a D ay of Pra ye r, and a D ay of C er em o ny. Eac h Di stri c t ( no w Provi nce) orga ni sed it s ow n ce l ebra ti o n , w i t h a ce nt ra l coo rdin atin g body in Po rt M or es by, sup erint end ed b y ex -Di stri c t Co mmi ss i o ner D av i d M ar sh.

Ri ght: Th e Flag Party and G ua rds s/0 11 • ma r ch ed 11p In depe nde nce Hill to ho i st the n ell' na t ions flag abo, e the p laq ue co111111 e111orat in g the ce remony.

Story and photographs by Eric Lindgren

The eve nt was reco rded in a book titled In Truth A Nation. It s introduction rea d s:

/11

tl,e beginning th e land H'CIS raw.

Mol(/ded by the forces (Jl notl(re into a ri c h cou ntry of nwuntoins a nd ri l'ers and vo ll eys between Of plains, islands and isl ets and !h e ri c hn ess of th e sea.

Then ca m e 111an.

From tl,e 1l' es t h e ca m e, and.fi·o111 th e eas t , to li ve in this land of plentv. Tropical Man, explorin g ever farther .fi'om th e c:o 11ti11 e1110I lands to th e wes l, and ,li-0111 th e vas tn ess of th e grea test of Our Pl a n e t Earth~- ocea ns to tl, e eas t.

Dark -sk inn ed man livin g close to the natural ll'Orld, harves tin g th e products cJ!he sea and soil, sca rce ly leav in g his mark as h e po ssed by.

Dark-skinned man, livin g th e si mpl e life of hunter, gatherer and, far e ,; far m e ,; .finding food in th e forests and plains: 11•ollaby, c usrns, tree kangaroo, cassowa ry, and th e fruits of th e fo res t g ia nts, palms, vin es a nd g rass es

Then ca m e man.

With his s hip s of wood, and po1Vered by th e winds h e came, exp lorin g eve r farther .fi'om his co ld ho m e lands far •to th e north , 0 11 the op posite side of th e g lo b e.

This 1vas Te mp erate Man, va inly believing that hi s was th e way (Jl li fe th a t th e world mu s t bend to his d es ires.

Pal e -skinn ed man brin g in g with him a ma g ic spawn ed in c uri os ity. Baubl es and stran ge d ev ices c arri ed across th e seas and bartered for th e produ cts of th e land.

Pa le -skinn ed man , li vin g a simple life, sharing and l e arnin g fi-0111 his dark-sk inn e d broth ei: Ever searching, eve r seeking to explore th e world and so .find hims e lf Man with tim e to loo k , a tim e to li ve , a tim e to lov e, a tim e to ex plore

But th e idyll cou ld not co ntinu e. Th e meldin g of the dark- and li g ht-skinn ed m en and th e ir ways was slow. Li vin g side-byside, one scarcely affecting th e othe,; livin g th e ir liv es to ge th e r ye t apart. Exploring th eir .fi-iendships, fi g htin g th eir battles over life, land, lo ve Still with a tim e to look.

Then ca m e man

Once more .fi-0,11 th e north, but now with an urge n cy, th e n ee d to develop, to pro g ress. Now 110 lon ge r co nt ent to li ve within th e co nfin es of nature H e had set hims e lf apart.

Mod e rn Man, a n ew bree d rea d y to plunde r th e land which gave him life. Growin g his shadow across th e g lob e, casting his n et wide, u sin g his knowl edge ga in ed in c uriosity to alte r the wo rld to suit hims e lf Pa y in g Little h ee d to th e hurt h e ca us ed - to man, to th e ea rth , to th e oceans, to nature.

Mod e rn Man, co min g to this land at a tim e when it was grow in g , en te rin g th e family of the nations, sharing th e ma g ic, th e knowl ed ge, and fate. Entering th e famil y of man and grow in g not only in age but in wisdom . For Mod e rn Man c ame lat e, and the p eo pl e were ready.

To accept th e ways d eeme d goo d , to rejec t thos e which were bad To re ta in old ways deem ed goo d , to cast-off· chos e 1vhi c h were wrong.

To search.

To accept.

To qu es tion.

To modify

To view th e ir past and re main tru e Th e simple land of th e past had b eco m e a Nation , and the quality of that Nation would d ep e nd upon th e quality of its p eo ple Peop le who must b e tru e to th ems elv es, tru e to th e ir famil y, tru e to th e ir clan, tru e to th e ir n e ig hbours, and tru e to all who co me in friendship;

So let this land be co m e A NATION IN TRUTH

Th e n surely it will re main IN TRUTH A NATION.

Eric Lindgren , Port More s by , 1975

Left: An elder fi-o,n Butibum villa ge, Kissin g Tikandu , unve ils th e Independence Plaqu e on th e massiv e stone set b efo re th e Area Authority Offices in Lae.

was written by the fir s t GovernorGeneral of Papu a New Guinea , Sir John Guise (ph o to above). He wrote:

In truth we are a Nation - a Nation of p eo pl e who sp ea k m a ny lan guages and who li ve in a trem endous variety of haml ets , villa ges, toll'ns and c iti es A Nation is not made of buildin gs - it is not made of wood or steel - it is made in th e h ea rts of th e m e n and \\ 'Om e n of this fair land We are n ot a ll alike in co lo ur or cus toms, bw we ha ve th e co mmon bond of Nationhood. We will ha ve probl ems in th e future but th ese probl em s \ l' ill g i ve us th e oppo rtunity to ris e above o ur diffi c ulti es and to mak e progress in o ur searc h for ou r ha ppin ess in thi s co untry.

Sir John Guise 's words are as relevant to Papua New Guinea in 2000 as they were in 1975 As i s the Afterword of the book:

For,

With this s tep th e journey ha s just begun

And,

To build a Nation Th e road is lon g and hard.

But Let not traditions die For th ese a re th e sou l of man.

Below: The first Prime Ministe1; Michael Somare signs a Declaration of A ll eg iance, lVa tched by

Sir J ohn Guise ( left ) and J ohn

Left: The Governor-Genera/ Sir John Guis e is sworn in by th e Chief Justi ce of Papua New Guin ea, Sir Sydn ey Frost.

Right: Ind epe nde nce trees, planted throughout th e nation , symbolise th e grow th of the land. Here Mrs R Saini , wife of th e mana ger of Radio Northern Pro vin ce (Ora) puts jinishi11.g tou c h es to th e tree she plamed at Popondetta.

Prin ce Charles officially opens the First National Parliam ent of Papua New Guinea.

Sportin g eve nt s decorated fl oa ts and spec i ally - m ade masks were popul ar aspec ts of th e ce l ebratio ns aro und the co untr y.

Abov e: Th e Girl Guide.float a t G oroka

Below: Thi s Raba 11I Hi g h School.float was so ta ll that Ol'e rh ead H' ires had t o be raised t o le t it pass down th e s treets.

Above: M V Kiap leads the floa t s in the parade through Ki111 be , West Ne11 · Britain

B el ow: A t Goroka a process io n off/oats presented a S:atJlllll~i.:"------------, speclllcu /a r display 1h ro u g h th e st ree t s of the tow n

urs, representatives hing th e Members of the 1111 e 11t being sworn in at

Above left: Th efea rso 111 e Malan ga n m ask from Nell' Ire la nd, m a d e espec ially for th e ce lebra ti o n s.

Above 1ight: A wood-ca11 1er displays his fi n es t m asks, espec ially made for Indep enden ce.

Left : Always popular throughow Papua Ne11 • Guinea the greasy pole featured in rh e ce lebra ti ons of 111 a11y pro,·inces. H e re, a t Bulo l o, 111 e n 1rrive to reach the pri:e at th e top of the pole.

Bel ow: Am usin g, excit in g, l'igorous a nd co lo w fu l, the Chinese Dragon rhrill ed spec raro rs in P ort Moresby with its antics.

.at last a ffordable vehicle h the Luxur Features of ecutive Station Wagon

* 2.8Lt Turbo Diesel * Alloy Wheels

* Air Conditioned * Side Steps

* Power Steering * Two Tone Colour

* Electric Windows * Side Flares

* Central Locking * Am/Fm Radio Cassettee

* Electric Mirrors * And More and More and ........

e • reco n1se •

otent1a •

The Public Officers Superannuation Fund is one of PNG's leading investors.

The P.O.S.F. manages the superannuation contributions of PNG's public servants. That's a big r es ponsibility.

It's a lso a big opportunity because we invest this money to incr ease the savings of public servants and, on a broader sca le , to benefit eve ryone inPNG.

We do this by recognising sound, profitable investments. It may be land or building developm e nts, mining, commercia l ventures, in fact anywhere we see potential for the future.

Sometimes our investm e nts are short t e rm Som e times long term. But we always invest with th e aim of bringing a return to our m e mbers and overall growth to the future of PNG.

Because we know that , just as with flowers, if we nurture potential carefully, w e 'll have a b ea utiful future.

To discuss your particular sound busin ess proposal, pl ease contact the Managing Dir ec tor by tel e phone on 321 2382, or by fax on 321 2745.

Dendrobium Alba Tabo is an orchid unique to Papua New Guinea, a country rich in flora and fauna. It 's also a country rich in human resources promising a bright future.

The POSF plans to enrich that promise by turning today's potential into tomorrow 's growth.

AirNiugini

Air Niugini is pleased to welcome you on board. Our friendly flight attendants will endeavour to make your journey comforlable and safe. We ask that you acquaint yourself with the following features of our service.

TAKEOFF AND LANDING

Ensure that your seat is in the uptight position during takeoff and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their miginal position in the seat back or in the armrest.

SAFETY FIRST

Your seatbelt must be securely fastened during takeoff and landing or whenever the seatbelt sign is on. When the seatbelt sign is off, you may move about the cabin as necessary. However, while seated, keep your seatbelt fastened securely in case of unexpected turbulence.

SMOKING

Smoking is not pennitted on any Air Niugini flight.

BEFORE YOU LEAVE

Please check your seat pocket before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value.

ENTERTAINMENT

A movie and a selection of music including classical, modem, country and local are availa le on international services. Programmes can be found in the inflight entertainment section of this magazine.

HAND LUGGAGE

Please ensure that your luggage is placed in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you.

PILLOWS AND BLANKETS

On international flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from cabin attendants.

CHILDREN AND BABIES

Our flight attendants will provide a Paraclise Kit that includes a colouring book and pencils , games and puzzles. The flight attendants will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby 's food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are available on international flights.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT

Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic devices such as p01table computers, compact discs or cassette players and video games can be used only when the seatbelt sign is switched off.

At th e l aun c h of th e O l y mpi c

To rch Re l ay i n Po rt M o resby o n

27 Ap ril 2000, th e Prim e Mini ster Sir M eker e M orauta said: ' Th e O l y mpi c Ga mes rep rese nt m uc h mo re th an a sp ortin g co ntest. Th ey sy mb o li se th e bo nd s bet wee n peo pl e and nati o ns. Th e dec i si o n by th e Ga mes orga ni se r s to h ave th e O l y mpi c To rch Rel ay pass th ro ugh Papu a New G uin ea ti es us into th e wo rld co mmunit y ju st as mu c h as intern ati o nal trea ti es.'

T he offi c i al statement fo r th e Rel ay rein fo rce d thi s th eme: ' Th e O l y mpi c Ga m es ar e ab o ut be in g p art o f so methin g b i gger th an yo ur se l f , sharin g th e hi st o r y, spirit. ce r emo n y and tr ad iti o n of th e m ost endurin g and ad m i ra bl e hum an eve nt of all tim e

T h e T o r c h R e l ay litera ll y and fi g urati ve l y emb o di es thi s se n se o f sharin g - fro m th e simpl e co nn ec ti o n of t wo indi v idu al s as th e to rc h i s passe d fr o m o ne to th e nex t to th e sharin g of th e spirit of th e T or ch Rel ay w ith t he entire wo rl d.'

Photographs by Rocky Roe Permission of PNG Sports Federation

Th e O l y m pi c To rc h - lit acco rdin g to anci ent cu st om fr o m th e r ays of th e sun in Ol y mpi a, G r eece on IOMa y 20 00 - arri ved in Po rt M o res b y o n 27 M ay

A t a sho rt ce remo ny at Jac k so ns A irp ort , th e Prim e Mini ster offi c i all y acce pt ed th e fl ame fr o m Sy dn ey O rga ni sin g

Co mmi ttee fo r th e Ol y mpi c G am es offic i al Di H enry (p h o to midd le left)

' Th e ho nour of hos tin g th e Ol y mpi c Fl am e w ill go dow n in hi sto ry and ac t as an in spi ra ti on to all Papu a N ew G uin ea ns, es pec i all y o ur Ol y mpi c athl etes,' Sir M ek ere sa id at the airp ort we lco me

Th e fl ame was fl ow n by heli co pt er (p ho to below left) to O we n 's Co rn er w her e th e fir st to rch bear er co mm enced th e r el ay dow n th e Soge ri Roa d t o

Go rdo n, B oroko, E l a B eac h, dow nt ow n

Port M o res by, bac k up th e Po rop or ena

Freeway, to Parli ament H o use until th e li ghtin g of th e ca uld ro n at Sir Jo hn Gui se

Stadium at Wai ga ni

Th e fir st Papu a N ew Guin ea n to li g ht hi s tor ch fr o m th e mas ter fl ame, K o i ari D eve l opm ent A uth orit y chairm an Gerr y Imiri sa id , ' I was a bit ner vo u s but th e tra diti o nal dance r s gave me th e co urage. I fee l pri v il ege d and fo rtun ate. I am rea lly happ y. '

B el o w : Th e s ta rt of th e run - Ger ry l m iri s ta nds in fro nt of World Wa r 11 Ca rri e rs, Reg iona l M e mb e r fo r

Cen t ra l, Ho n. Ted Di ro and A u s tra li a n D eputy Hi g h

Commiss ioner, St e ph e n H en ni ng h am a t O we n 's

Come ,; so uth. e m e nd of th e Ko koda Tr a il.

Durin g the ei ght ho urs of th e Papu a New Guine an l eg of th e Oceania torch ro ute, th e wor ld had th e opportunity to g limp se a fraction of the co untry's div er se c ulture Th e I 00 torchb ear er s, who were se lec ted fr o m a wide cross-section of th e co mmunit y, are among th e to tal of 1,5 00 O cea ni a to rchbearers in thi s uniqu e and hi sto ric al eve nt.

Ri g ht: No I 3 : Monica Jonathan from M o rohe is a d ed ica t ed a 1hl e1e. Monica won go ld in 1h e Oceania Games in Philippin es. She was a m e mb e r of !h e Women's 4 x 400111 re la y (go ld ) and 4 x I 00m re lay (s il ver) in 1h e / 999 SOltlh Pa c ifi c Gam es in G uam.

from th e Central Provin ce is l 3 yea rs o ld and is a n acl i ve m e mb e r of th e Seventh Da y Adventist Ch urch.

Left: No 25: Aged 39, Kavua Ori represe n! ed di sa bl ed sp o rts. He co mp e 1ed in !h e Di sab led Games in In do n es ia (19 86) winnin g a s il ve r m eda l in Di scus and b ron ::.e in We ig htliftin g, an d in Jap an ( 1989), winnin g go ld in We ig htliftin g.

Below: No 20: Sports ve tera n Viii Maha was a Rul es football c hamp Maha was !h e Execu ti ve Direc to r of th e 199 1 South Pa c ifi c Games Foundation

any wav in

hil e o th er s c limb ed on rooft op s or trees and m any, m any mo re pa ck ed th e gr and stand s at th e stadium.

Left: No 32 : Allen Tom is sc h oo l ca pt a in a t St J osep h '.\·

int e rn a ti o na l S c hoo l Th e 14- ye ar- o ld is a11

o uts tandin g s p o rtsman and has represe nted th e sc hoo l fo r nin e yea rs. A ll en parti c ip a tes in th e sc hoo l '.5 p rog ramm e with th e

Ch es hire Ho m e , assi s tin g childre n in sw immin g

B elow : No 23 : R eprese ntin g th e hi g hes t m o untain in Pa p ua

New Guin e a , Mt Wilh e lm , and th e who le pro vin ce of Simbu is Chris Jamie Saley. 25 -ye ar-old Sa ley is th e co mmunit y repres e ntati ve of e n vironm e ntal is su e s in !h e Mt Wilh e lm area.

Ri g ht : No 34: C urre n/ n a ti o n a l a thl e ti cs coac h , Naomi Po/um is a p rim a ry sc h oo l t e a c her N a o mi has re prese nt e d Pa pu a NelV Guin ea as a s p rint e r a t fo u r S o uth Pac ifi c G a m es, w innin g a to tal of 11 m ed a ls.

Ri g ht : No 3 5: Geua Tau was th e .firs t and o nly

Co mm o n we alth , Gam es go ld m e dalli s t fo r Pa pua New Guin ea in th e s in g le s Bow lin g at A u c kland in 1 992

Above l eft: No 39: Sir James Jacobi arrived in Papua New Guinea i11 196 1 as Medical Officer in !he Health Depamnem. Since 1964 he has worked as a private medical pracllt1011e1: He 11 •as the Presidenl of the Papua Rugby League (11011 • PNC Ru g by League).from 1964 until his re 1ire111e11t in 1992. Sir James was the foundation member of the Boroko Rotary Club.

Above middle: No 40: War 11et e ran Ben Moide MBE CBE is an ex-servi c eman ll'hojoined !he ar111y - Papua/I Infantry Ba/ta/ion - wh e n he was 16 years old. During 194/ and / 942, he was a sergeant and served in Buna, Coma Oroba and the Kokoda Trail. Jn 196 1, he became the first Papua Neiv Guinean rugby league player in an otherwise expatriate /ea111. He also lov es playi11g c ricke!.

Above right: No 98: Champion all-round sportswoman , lamo Launa has won gold in !h e hep1a1hlo11 at the South Pacific Gam es. An Olympian , famo has represented Papua New Guinea in three sports - athleti cs, nelball and volleyball.

Right: No 99: Rugby league star winger with the Melbourne Storm, Marcus Bai is an excellenl a111bassadorfor Papua New Guinea. No JOO: Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea, Sir Mekere Morauta.

Above: No 70: A former champion boxer PNC featherweight in 196 7, Martin Beni was lightweight champ in 1968 and toured New South Wales as a member of the PNC Under 19 team. Sportsman of the Year in 1969, he was selected as a PNC boxer to !he 1971 South Pa c ific Games in Tahiti. Tumed professional boxer in 1972, the first for Papua New Guinea, he won the Australian Commonwealth title in 1975, just before Ind ependence. H e hung up his gloves in 1979.

Below: On the steps of Par/iamellt House - No 93: Papua New Guineas first Chief Minister in 1973 and first Prime Minister in 1975, Sir Michael Somare comes from the East Sepik Province. Sir Michael is currently Minister for Mining & Bougainvil/e Affairs.

No 94: Se c retary G e neral of the PNC Sports Federation , Sir John Dawanincura re c eil' e d his knighthood in 1999 for his conlribution to sports

After li ghting his torch from the 99 th runn er, Rugby League player Marcus Bai , Sir Mekere ran the last leg of the rel ay before lighting the cauldron. The Prime Minister's words echoed the sent im ent felt by the watching crowd.

·Ladies and gent l emen, o n behalf of the people of Papua ew Guinea I want to say thank you for the magnificent gift that ha s been giv en to me. The Olympic Torch symbolises the effo rt s of men and women to fulfil their potential. It symbol i ses individual achievement. It al so symbol i ses unity and teamwork. Papua New Guinea is a young country struggling to achieve its potential. This can only be done through unity and teamwork, through the combination of all of us as individuals triving to achieve. Thi gift is a reminder of the challenges we face, and of how we can overcome them. '

As the Olympic Flame left the country for Vanuatu , the next destination on its epic journey to the 2000 Games, many Papua New Guineans were proud to have been part of the history of the Olympics.

Put some Ramu in it ...

"When you buy shares with the Investment Corporation Fund you are actually investing for the benefit of you and your family's future. The shares that you buy make you own a small part of each of the companies in which we invest your money.

The Investment Corporation Fund of Papua New Guinea has shares in many different types of companies involved in real estate , primary industry , hotels and merchandising , just to name a few , of which we invest shareholders money.

Why join the Investment Corporation Fund , then? Well , we provide a safe and secure environment for your money to grow in value. That means you receive regular income through dividend payments every year, you can sell back shares whenever you require cash , or you can use your shares as part security to obtain loans from commercial banks.

You can buy shares through Outright Purchase and Pay Deduction from employee salaries Invest now and watch your money

create jobs and shape Papua New Guinea's future development."

For more information about the Fund and how to become a shareholder, contact the Fund Manager.

Investment Corporation of Papua New Guinea PO Box 155 Port Moresby, NCD Telephone: 321 2855 , Facsimile: 320 2365 Investing and sharing nationwide.

Kumul

By Steven Mavii Gimbo

Perched on a branch

Bright and beautiful

Like the birth of dawn

In the early hours of morn

So arrogant and proud

Of nobl e blood and princely race

You rule from high above

Your throne is on the highest branch

When you spread your glamour

For the world to admire

No inferior race is nearby

For to do so would be to breach the la w

You alone, belong to the Land of Paradise

Where other races look upon you with awe.

Your race: The Birds of Paradise

Have ruled the treetops for centuries

Your majesty knows no bounds

Your kingdom has no boundary

You rule the entire world

From high up above

Your word is law

And your voice rings throughout your kingdom

No others can walk where you have walked

Or where you have shaken the dust off your feet

To you, other animal species are nothing

But the lowly

You look down on them all

Except the master species: The Homo Sapiens

For the Homo Sapiens

Understand your beauty and nobility

For you alone belong to paradise

You alone are the Birds of Paradise

The Masters: The Homo Sapiens

Are the only ones who have control

Over all things on earth

Even you and your princely race

But they do not want you for food

Nor do they shoot you for ga,ne

They do it because you are noble

They need your princely beauty

And even in death

You are preservedforever

Your grand beauty

Displayed for all to see

Unlike the other races from your species

Who pass away even in death

Your noble body and princely beauty

Will be preserved forever by the Homo Sapiens

The Master Species: The Homo Sapiens

Envy your princely beauty

And want you for their own

Because your beauty gives them status in society

Therefore, even in your death

You make the master species proud

For in you, they find beauty and grace

And it shows their social standing

You are Kumul

So arrogant and proud

Of noble blood and princely race

Froni the Land of Paradise

You are: The Birds of Paradise.

Diving in • av1eng

and photographs by

Darryl Leniuk

Situated just 300km south of the equator at the confluence of the Bismarck Sea and the South Pacific Ocean lies one of the true gems of the South Seas. Count less islands, secluded golden sandy beaches, azure wate rs a nd foendly locals greet those who make the effort to visit this island paradi e. This i Kavieng. One of the most beautiful and laid back places in the South Pacific. And if it's action you· re after you· ve come to the right place. But the action here only happens in one place, beneath the surface.

Diving in Kavieng is known for it 'big fish' (pelagic) enco unters. It was the chance to dive with sharks, barracuda and giant schools of fish that drew my dive buddy Rick and my elf to thi seldom vi ited di e destination.

Dietmar, our guide from Lissenung Diving explained the dive plan for the next week. Scanning the tide table and nautical chait with the intensity of a general drawing up his battle plan, he declai·ed we wou ld first dive Eagle Ray Pass in search of eag le rays.

Diving planning in Kavieng is somewhat of an ait. To see the big pelagics you need good incoming cuJTents. But when you have those cuJTents, you al o have to know what to do with them - which site are going to be the best for what you are looking for. According to his calculations we were to have only three days of incoming currents.

Left background: Wreck of the Der Yang, a Taiwanese fishing trawler sunk as an artifical reef for Kavieng divers

In ert: The beautiful nuclibranchembrotha kubaryana

Eag le Ray Pass did not di sap point. We did saw five eag le rays sw immin g loop-to- loop pattern s, but they were a little s hy th at day a nd decided not to ha ng aro und too lo ng.

Our nex t dj ve was in Planet C ha nn e l. As soo n as we de sce nd ed we saw a large sc hoo l of barrac uda a nd a sc hoo l of jacks We were asto und ed by the multitud e offish li fe o n the se reefs. At H e lm e ts Reef we had so me of th e best s hark ac ti o n I have eve r see n . Several big g rey reef and s il ver tip s harks patrol led a lo ng th e steep dropoffs on the o ute r edge of the reef waiting fo r the mea l t he in com in g c urre nts we re s ure to bring. A lb a t ross Pass was a not her not-to-be- mi ssed s ite. We litera ll y had to push the fish o ut of the way as we drifted al ong th e black-coral cove red wa ll s of thi s s pectac ul ar reef.

After thr ee day s of c has in g the 'big boys' of th e reef, o ur tim e w ith th e m was up There were to be n o more of the in co min g currents necessa ry for pelagics. At first thi s really depressed u s. After all , we had come here for th e bi g fish ac ti o n But after thr ee d ays of di v in g we noti ced th a t th ere was inde ed much more to see th a n pe lag ic s. I have not see n a more incre dibl e variety of nudibran c h s (sea s lu gs) a nd

a ne mo ne fish a n yw here

At Albatross P ass, Dietmar found so me p yg m y sea horses a tt ac he d to a l a rge fa n cora l (photo on left) . These d e li ca te littl e c rea tures were not mu c h bi gge r th a n a grain of ri ce!

The bea utiful littl e p orce lain crab is a noth er co mm o n res id e nt of the se waters , makin g hi s hom e o n th e

Background: School of baitfish often attract larger animals in sea rch of a meal.

Below left: The porcelain crab (Neopetro li s th es os himai) makes its home on the Stichodactyla sp anemone.

Below right: The nudibranch Risbecia tryoni

Kavieng wasn ' t always the pe ace ful laid back place it is tod ay. Durin g World War II it was the s ite of a major Japanese ba se. Although the allies made no attempt to retake it , it was heavily bombed and seve ral war relic s remain to thi s day.

For us it was the chance to dive our very fir st war wrecks. The fir s t was the 'S tubborn HelJion ', an American B25-C Mitchell Bomber shot down by the Japanese as it bombed Kavien g in 1944. The aircraft is almost completely intact and has a wingspan of over 20 metre s . Tod ay it s it s upright on a sa ndy bottom in l 2m of water and ha s become a s mall oasis of marine life. Several s pecie s of anemone fi s h have made their home in the fuselage and a school of batfi s h hovered nearly motionle ss under one of the plane' s wings.

Our next wreck was a Japanese Nakajima or ' Kate ' bomber (pho to below). Although much s maller than the 'Stubborn Hell ion ', it was equally impressive with its large propeller s till s tandin g out of the sand after more than 50 years underwater In s ide the cockpit where the pilot once sat now live s a purple frogfi s h - another unusual creature I had not seen before .

Kavieng has much to offer between dive s too. There are several restaurants that specia lise in fresh seafood, and a lively town market.

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On our las t day we dec ided to do a trip down th e is land along the Bolumin s ki Hi g hway . We stop ped at severa l idyllic villages a lon g the coast and went for a refre s hing swim in a cool mountain s tream.

Be low: Traditional accommodation on Nusa Lik Island

During our journey, we met a Malagan master carver. The famous Malagan carving, associated with mo1tuary rites , is unique to thi s paiticular area of New Ireland. Kavieng truly is a place of incredible diversity, both above and below its beautiful waters.

Wh e n to go: The best diving months are May to November. Some of the more exposed sites cannot be dived between December and March, due to the northwest monsoons.

Getting there: Air Niugini operates daily flights between Po1t Moresby and Kavieng.

Dive operators: Lissenung Diving, MV Tiata, MV Pai·adise Sport and MV Febrina

Skill level: Intermediate to advai1ced since many dives involve cuJTent.

Conditions: Average visibility 20-30m, average water temperature 28-30°C

For more information: New Ireland Tourist Bureau , PO Box 103 , Kavieng , New Ireland Province Phone: (675) 9841449 Fax: (675) 9842346

Book Review

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When you are in Port Moresby and find acco mm o d at io n is expensive, come and see us and we' ll make it a ffo rd a bl e for you.

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In Ta hiti & Fre nch Po lynes ia, there is information on all the archipelagos - the Societies , Tuamotus, M a rquesas , Austra l s and Gambier s - with extensive information on inter-is land travel. The fu ll y updated maps in the 400-page guide show 4 WD tracks, walking routes and dive sites. Learn about the histo1ical background from the Bounty mutineers to the controversial French nucleartesting programme. There is co mprehensive coverage of the Polyne s ian , French and Asian cuisine.

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The 10'h edition of A u stra li a covers the vast continent in comprehensive detail. A special section on the Sydney 2000 Olympic Game s ha s events, venues, transpo11 options plu s Olympic history and trivia. There is a full co lo u r specia l section on Abori g inal art. The 1,082page book co ers accommodation and dining in every state and territory

One of the most authoritat i ve sources of travel information , Lonely Planet books capture the mood of a country and the pirit of travel. Take one with you when next you travel for chatty, eccentric and practical advice.

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Our Printe Minister

Compiled by Dianne Mcinnes

r th e first time in man y ea rs , Pa pua New Guinea as th e seeds of'afu ture. It is a future that will restore to eve 1y citi ze n wha t is ri g hifully theirs - a d ece nt, safe , h ea lthv a nd fulfil lin g lif'e. These wo rds were pa rt of Prim e Mini s ter Sir Mekere Morauta's message to the nation a t th e beginnin g of the year 2000.

Sir Mekere was born in 1946 in Kukipi v ill age, M a lalaua Di s trict , Gulf Provinc e. Educated at s chool s in th e Gulf and a t Sogeri , Mekere Mor a ut a was the fir s t g radu a te in Eco nomics from the Unive rs ity of Papu a New Guine a in l970. Hi s experience as Papu a New Guinea 's first Secretary of Finance, Managing Director of the Papua New Guinea Bankin g Corporation and Governor of the Bank of P a pua New Guine a, not to mention his own successfu l fami ly business and the many Board s on which he has served, illu s trates his distinctive ab iliti es.

Although this is hi s fir s t term in Parliament as Member for Moresby North West , Sir Mekere h as throu g hout hi s entire working life contributed to the deve lopment and growth of Papua New Guinea. In July 1999 , his election as Prime Mini s ter wa s another milestone in the na tion 's hi s tory w h e n hi s 99 s upp orting votes were the mo s t e ver recorded.

In reviewing hi s fir s t ye ar in office , Sir Mekere said : Th e nati on has made significant ga in s in th e pa s t 12 months on th e fi ve obj ecti ves we set when we we re e lec ted on th e floor of Parliam ent Thos e obj ecti ves - stabi li sing the Kina , res to rin g s tability to th e Budge t , re buildin g th e integ rity of th e instituti o ns of state, re m ov in g o bsta cles t o in ves tm en t a nd g row th and moving s u ccessfu ll y towards a political se ttl e m e nt of th e Bouga in vill e issue - must be fu lly met.

Be low: First grad uate in Economics (1970 )

Below: On tou r in th e Gulf, resea rc hin g agric ulture for a report for th e Eco n om ic Inte lli ge n ce Unit ( 19 7 1). Welcomed h o m e t o Kukipi by hi s fa th e r M orau ta Hasu

Above: Laun c hin g th e Silver Jubil ee Logo - Pet e r Ba rt e ,; National Events Council Chairman and th e Prim e Mini s ter (Jun e 2000)

Left: Sir M e k e re with Pa ia s Win g ti , wh o was then PM, at th e open in g of Morawa H o us e (June 1986)

B elow left: PM, th e touri s t, a t th e mark et in Yen tc h e n village on th e Sepik Ri ver (July 2000)

Below ri ght: Stepping ou t on the PM 's Celebrity Walk (December 1999 )

Hi s gove rnm ent has beg un to rebuild th e public se rvi ce and other in stitution s so that people once again get the type of se rvi ce the y are entitled to. Foreign gove rnm ent s, th e World Bank, the lntern ation al Monetary Fund and other internation al fin anci al in stitution s have re ga in ed confidence in th e country and are once again supporting it s developm ent.

Sir Mekere believes th e bills on politic al inte g rity and changes to the vo ting system that hi s Gov ernm ent is initiating will help restore fairness, ho nes ty and decenc y to th e po litic al pro cess . Th ey will impro ve the prospects for politic al stability , which he sees as essential for economic and soc ial development to occur.

Below: H on Chris Hai veta ( Reg ional M e mb e r for Gulf) , th e PM, Hon Alfred Po go (Minister for Work s ) and the Japan es e Ambassador to Papua N ew Guin ea, HE Tatsuo Tanaka open a road at Malalaua (May 2000).

Above: M e k e re, th e fisherman, laun c h es a n e w vesse l w ith family (April 1994 ).

Ri g ht: Sir Mekere and his so n Jam es e nj oy dinn e r at a faFourite bistro ( O c to b e r l 999 ).

Below: At th e h e lm of his n e 11 • pride and j oy - Lauta Oroti (November 1999)

In 199 0 w he n Sir M e ke re was kni g ht ed by th e Qu ee n in th e ew Yea r Ho no ur for hi s se rv ices to ba nkin g a nd finan ce, he sa id , R ece i v in g a kni g hth oo d is indee d a g reat honou,: I a m , h o weve 1; ex trem e ly mindful of th e ass ist a n ce I h ave rece i ve d fro m m a n y peop le in 111 ,, wo rk fo r th e G ove rnm ent 0 1•er th e years , bo 1h in 1h e publi c se r Fice a n d PNC

B a 11 k i11 g Co 1pora 1i o 11 I ll'O Ltld lik e to think th a t I CO Ltld s h a re th e h o n o ur with s u ch j i ie nds, in recog niti o n of 1h e ir ro le in th e co ntributi o n I h ave tri ed to m a k e to th e d eve lopm e nt a n d 111 a 11 age 111 e 11t of th e co 111111 y I tru s t I ca 11 co 11tinu e to m ake a co ntri b uti o n. I be li el'e Pa pu a Nell' Guin ea i s in m a n y ways at th e c ro ss ro ads Th e eco n o m y and soc ie (v ha ve c h a n ge d so 11111 c h , but in a way that i s failin g t o s afeg u a rd th e ge n e ral we lfa re of o rdin a ry peo pl e. Our c h a ll e n ge fo r th e f uture is to e limin a t e th e g row in g t re 11 ds of in effic iency a n d was t age, so th a t a ll w ill h a 1•e opp o rtuniti es to s ha re in th e co mm o n we alth of th e nmi o n

L e ft top: Sir M e k e re s ig nin g loa n ag ree m e nt fro m th e A us tra li a n Go ve rnm e nt, w itn essed b y Hi g h Co mmi ss io n e r N ick Wa rn e r (Jun e 2000 )

Left Middle: Christmas g ift to inmates at B o m a na ( D ecemb e r 1999)

Be lo w: M ek e re th e ru g b y playe r a t uni vers ity ( 196 7) - ca n yo ll fi nd him ?

Above: Sir Meke re and th e Prim e Minister of Samoa co ng ra tul a te Don

on hi s e lec ti o n as Sec reta , y Gene ral of th e Commonwealth at th e C HOGM M ee tin g in Durban (November 1999)

Above: Sir Meke re and Prim e Mini st er J ohn H oward a t th e sign in g of th e Australia-PNC aid trea ty ( Octob e r 1999)

Right: Lady R os lyn Morauta and th e Fir s t Lady of Hong Kong enjoy m eet in g Sir Edmund Hillar y in Au ckland (Sep1 e111b e r 1999)

Below left: We lco m ed to South Afri ca by Pres ident Thabo Em ek i (Nove mb e r 1999)

Below 1i ght: Australian Fore ign Minist e r Alexander Do wn er enjoys th e view from the PM 's ve randah (Jul y 1999)

In the fo ll owi ng yea r s, he h as definit el y co ntinu ed t o make a co ntributi on!

Throu ghout hi s career, Sir Mekere ha never bee n afr aid of voicing hi s opinions. He beli eves th at there i a nee d fo r far wider di sc uss ion of i s ue s, as thi s can only result in more infonned deci ionmakin g and a grea ter public apprec i atio n of Go ve rnm ent ac ti ons.

Re ce ntly in a parliamentary peec h, Sir Mekere aid, Th e Gove rnm ent is on ce again an o rga ni sa ti o n th a t prov ides advice to Mini s te rs and impl emen ts th eir decisions in th e int e res ts of a ll th e people of Papu a New Guinea. A syste matic process of decision-making ha s b een in s titut ed , w ith th e Central Agencies Committee pla y in g a vital role in th e coo rdination of advi ce to th e National Plannin g Committee and National Exec uti ve Council. Dec is ion s that are in th e national interest, that are tran spa rent and accountable, are on ce again b e in g made. Th e bodies that we re es tabli s hed und e r th e Constitution to prot ec t the nation and eac h of us as individuals are b e in g overhau led.

McKinnon

Left: Ma o ri e lde r g i ve s a tra d iti ona l we lco m e to lea d e rs a tt endin g th e APEC M ee tin g in N ew Z eal a nd (S ept emb e r 1999) Sir M ek ere: 'Nose rubbin g is not n ew to m e It's a lso a Toa ripi c us to m. '

At a r ece nt U nit e d C hu rc h g ath e rin g o rga ni se d b y th e Eas t P o rt M o res b y c ir c uit , Sir M e k e re s p o ke o f th e nee d for gove rnm e nt a nd c hur c hes to w o rk toge th e r as p a rtn e r s in c o mmunit y d eve l o pm e nt , in th e qu est for soc ia l ju s ti ce.

Church es are close to p eo pl e. Th ey have ex t en s i ve d a ily co ntac t with a broa d cross -sec ti on of soc iety Th ey co ntinu e to b ea r respo n s ib ili ty fo r soc ia l se rvices Th e re is m uc h for us to lea rn fro m th e know ledge and exp eri en ce that has b ee n built up by th e chu rc h es over a long tim e

P rob lem s suc h as mi sm anage m ent, cor rupti on, un empl oym en t, pros tituti on, A IDS , dru gs, a nd a break dow n in law and o rd e r a re ea tin g away a t the fab ri c of soc iety. Ch u rch es have a rea dy -m ade n et work to dea l w ith th ese iss ues, ha ndin -h a nd w ith th e G ove rn me nr , rh e pri va t e sec t or and o th e r n o ngove rnm ent orga ni sa tio n s

On e of th e a im s of my gove rnm ent is to reb uild Pa pua New Guin ea as a united n a ti on Th a t is wh y th e G ove rnm ent has ch ose n as its the m e fo r th e Sil ver Jubil ee In d ep e nde n ce ce l e brati on - Walking Together , Wokabaut Wantaim a nd Raka Hebou . Walkin g toge the r impli e s n o t ju s t a nati on wide effo rt to reco nst ru c t o ur eco n omy and o ur sys tem of go ve rnm ent. It mu s t al so en compa ss direc t effo rts a t gro und leve l to rebuild o ur soc ia l an d spiritu a l li ves Le t's wa lk toge th e r:

Above: S we arin g in of Ca bin et Mini st e rs a t Go vernm ent Ho us e (July 1999 )

Below: Fo ur Prim e Mini ste rs and a futur e on e - (from left ) Sir M ek e re, Pa ia s

Win g ti , Sir Mi cha e l Soma re, Sir Julius Ch an, Sir Ra bbi e Nam a liu (S eptemb er 1995 )

Answers on page 58

CIRCLES ISSING VO IVELS

On e gro up of s ha p es w ill make a co mpl e te c ir cle. Wri te in th e mi ss in g vowe l s to co mpl e te th e wo rds.

Whi c h o ne i it ?

MUSHROOM MATCH

Whi

When yo u ar e li v in g ove r seas . th ere i s no thin g better th an t ak in g an o pp o rtunit y t o m ee t wa ntoks and rekindle yo ur memo ri es of ho me

Member s of th e PNG A ssoc i ati on in Au ckl and , N ew Z eal and are ex -PNG res id ent s, Papu a ew Guin eans mani ed to ew Zea l ande rs an d stud ent s in seco nd ar y and t er ti ary in stituti o n s. Th e Assoc i ati on was set up by t ud ent to b1in g Pap ua ew Guin ea ns li v in g in ew Zea l and toge th er and to be a pl annin g body fo r ind epend ence ce l ebra ti o ns eac h year. It al so i a refe rence an d net wo rkin g grou p fo r P G gro up s v i si t in g ew Zea l and , such as spo1ting tea m like th e Kumul s.

From tim e to time memb ers ge t togeth er for barbecue s, fund - rai sin g fun ction s and simply to ca tch up with new s and sto ri es fr om home At th ese gath erin gs, it i s not unu ual fo r peo pl e to brin g a new pa per se nt fr om ho me, cas ette mu si c tapes and i l and food li ke taro, bana na, coco nut, k auka u th at ar e imp o1te d fr o m Samoa, Tonga and Fij i

A pl easant surp1ise fo r m any Papu a ew

Guin ea ns i s th e avai l abilit y of bua i (ca ll ed supa ri in Indi an sto res in Au ckl and ) and d a k a imp o rted from Fiji. Y o u ca n al so buy lime from c ru shed co ral or shell , whi ch th e Indi ans ca ll c huna

Fro n th e So uth ern Hi g hla nds P rov in ce, E ri c Ta m o in trad itio na l d ress with h is lect u re rs from Auckla n d ln stitwe of Tech no log); Akoran ga Ca mp us

Story and photographs by Steven Mago

For New Zea land-b ased Papua New Guinean 16 September is the most important date in their diaries. In 1998 I was pa.It of the Organising Committee for the Independence celebrations. Beforehand there was planning, fund-raising and dance rehearsal We were fo1tunate to secw-e financial suppo1t and use of facilities at a number of te1tiaiy institutions. Tricia Reade, International Manager at the Manukau Institute and vicechairperson of the NZ/PNG Bus in ess Council made many things possible and agreed to be our guest speaker.

Mrs Katrina Ellery, 01ig in a1ly of Simbu, but now a Z citizen offered her home as the staging area for all activities. We recreated a typical P G home and feasting scene with mumu pit , pig killings, coconut being crapped taro, kaukau and yam being peeled by the many helpful hands. There was no aibika, but we made do with lots of Englis h cabbage, spinach and watercress from the nearby farms.

On the day 1,000 students, former citizens and ex-residents met in colou1ful costumes beating kundu drums and eating traditional food. Groups came from Wellington, Hamilton, Palmerston OJth . ew Plymouth and Gisborne. Individual came from Christchurch, Dunedin, Masterton and Invercai·gill. We had to find a marae (traditional MaOJi meeting hou e) in Otai·a, South Auckland to accommodate those who came in b usloads from other citie

A proud moment for Agnes Gapi graduating from Auckland University in 1998 - pictured here ivith well ll'ishers.

This was one of those rare moments when we forgot what region or province in the country we came from because we were so overwhelmed by the joy of shaiing a day with our country folk.

Our flag-raising ceremony was held at the Manukau Institute of Technology. Everyone joined in singing the national anthem, followed by speeches, feasting and then a bus tour of Auckland.

The day ended with a formal dinner dance held at the Auckland University's Function Hall, where many Papua New Guineans bowed their previously hidden natural talents of si nging, dancing, costume design, body and face painting. There were dancers from the provinces of Central, Western, Milne Bay, Manus, New Ireland, East ew Britain and Morobe providing an audio and visual montage of colours and sound from a wide cross section of ew Zealand-based Papua ew Guinean . It was a memorable night where wantoks could wipe away their loneline s, rekindle memories of PNG and live out the old cliche, ·There is no place lik e home' . ;:)

Some travellers can ' t resist the temptation of foreign bazaars , be they authentic local food markets or mazes designed to trap tou1i st dollars. They are forever foraging through baskets of baubles o r c1icking their necks to see what is bubbling in a pot. They dream of carpet merchants unrollin g their wares and wi les in front of them and dread wa ll -to-wa ll fashion and electronics .

Such travellers can find a stopover in Singapore, Asia 's city/state shrine to department stores and designer labels, challenging. But s urvival is easy. Eat, walk, worship, drink and time-travel through the Singapore beyond Planet Hollywood , Harrods and the hamburger chains.

Visitors with the stomach for it can eat all day, enjoying hotel high teas, restaurant fare from sushi to sa uerkraut and ninety-six McDona ld s outlets But the best place to savour Singapore 's flavours is in hawker markets. Singapore street food is safe, delicious and cheap.

Finding hawker markets is as easy as following your nose , choosing from the Malays ian, Indian and Chinese dishes more difficult. Tauhu gore ng (fried beancurd in peanut sauce) and c har kway t eoow (flat 1ice noodles with clams and bean shoots fried in chilli and black bean sauce) are delicious.

A great place to savour Singapore's seafood is Palm Beach, a three-restaurant franchise founded in a c01rngated iron beach shack 40 years ago How about d1ied dough fotter and garouper (fish) tail soup, garouper body with fr ied shredded cuttlefish in chilli and sugar, clay-pot fi s h head (the last remains of the previously eaten garouper) and Sri Lankan pepper crab? Pepper crab has recently replaced 'c hicken lice' as Singapore 's favourite di s h , and blackening your fingernails p1izing slabs of spicy meat from c1irnson claws is one of life 's great culinary experiences.

Above: R esto red shop houses are part of Singapore's thriving river front district.

Right: Old and and new meet in Singapore.

ingapore·s underground Mass Rapid Tran port (MRT) saves time and energy. but exploring the city on foot justifi s all th e ea tin g Peranakan Pl ace, in th e heart of th e famous Orchard Road sho ppin g strip , is an interesting wa lkin g tour sta rtin g point.

Ear l y thi s ce ntury. this w,L\ a residential distJict for Peranakan merchants. (Peranakans trace their heritage back to l 5th-century intermaniages between Chine e eu l rs and l oca l Malays.) Pera naka n Place and nei ghbourin g Emerald Hill Ro ad now form an enc l ave of traditional tem1ces between skyscrape rs.

Terraced shop1-, with wooden shu tt ers and stucco reliefs once dominated Singaporean street. capes. Most fell in the rush to 111 dernise but w hen the governme lll realised their cultural sig nifi ca nce and appeal to tomi sts, they struted resto rin g the survivo rs as restaurants. boutiques and aprutmenb.

mbling eastwru·d from here bring you to the Colonial District"s gallerie , theatres, churches and mu eum Here too is Raffles Hote l and the Singapore Cricket Club pa ilion. From there yo u ca n walk north to Little Indi a, north-ea st to Arab Stree t or so uth to Chinatown.

Singapore's ethnic di stri cts aren' t hi stori c freeze-frames but they offe r g limp se and echoes of sight and sounds l ong gone from the ity centre. Lillie Indi a i hot with ari gold and spice:. Textiles and stacked ba ket crowd the alley around rab Street. Jo ss stick and the paper food, money and clothes burned at funerals decorate Chinatown's footpaths.

Chinatown' bi gge t shop i s it s 'we t ' market, packed full of fresh fruit, plu c ked poultry, tru sse d crabs. caged frogs and buckets of ee l and nail s. H ere yo u can buy li ve tmtle a sma ll a. bread and butter plate and as big a erv in g platt er .

Singapore ha a small but diverse collection of churches. temples and 1110 ques. Its oldest place of worship reflect the c ity-s tate's history of comi ngs and goings. The pill ar s and scu lplllres in the Taoist-BuddhistThian J-l ock K eng (Temp l e of H eaven l y H appi ness) came from China, the cast iron rai lin gs from Glasgow and the porcelain tiles from Holland.

When built. in 18-1-0, this favourite haunt of affiving sailors stood on the wate rfront. Land reclamation ha sin ce pulled th e wate r back from it s tiled roof and w rithin g dragons.

Another sho rt walk brings you to Sri Mariamman, Singapore· oldest Hindu temple. Built in 18-1-3 on the brick foundations of an earlier woode n stru cture, Sri Mariamman has a spec tacu l ar gopuram (tower). A if crowded o nt o a peak-hour Delhi bus, gar i sh figures gaze down at approac hin g devotees.

The go ld en dome of 70-year old Sultan Mo que i vi ible from doorway all through Singapore·s Mu lim quarter. The grand building replaced a much les er one con tructed in 1825 with a g rant from Raffle and th e Briti sh East lndi a Company. Bu sso rah Street"s beautifully renovated terraces form a guard of honour to th e mosque· front door

Singapore's humidity can broil as it dehydrate anyone out of air-conditioner range But fresh fruit juice , bottled water and oft drink are rarely far from hand, and a Raffle gin and tonic - le s wee t than a Singapore Sling - quenches the most o ld -fas hi o ned thirst. othing, however, beats a c uppa

In side Singapore's oldes t place of \\'Or.ship. the TaoistBuddhist Thic/11 Hock Keng (Temple of Heal'enly Happiness)

My fo nd est Singapore memory i s drinking black tea (l cou ldn't face co nd ensed milk) with a dessertspoon of sugar (no-o ne's heard of teaspoo ns), li stenin g to 50 Malay si an ho ney birds sin g.

Co mp eti tiv e bird sin g in g i s tradition al l y popular among Singapore 's l abourer s, for whom it i s a r el ax in g c hange from wo rk. It also attracts so me mon eyed wheeler-dealers w ho pay thou sand s of dollar s fo r winning birds.

Judging takes place ove r fo ur half-hour rou nd s and ca n tire even good sin ger s Champion birds ex hibit st amina with style by sin gin g to the end w ith their chests up.

Every Sunday morning Singapore an men gather at suburb an tea shops to soc ialise and super v i se their bird s' practice sess i o ns, many atte ndin g th e same cafe th eir fathers v i sited. They welco me tou1ists w ho don ' t disturb the tin y hon ey birds trillin g in do ze ns of ex qui site bamboo cages.

Another place to esca pe Sin gapo r e's co mm er c i al ca rryin gs -on i s Fort Canning Park , whf.re yo u ca n wander back throu gh 600 yea r s of hi sto ry.

Mal ay tradition rel ate s the hill was the burial place of Tamasek kings before Sir Stamford Raffle s built hi s bungalow here in 182 1 Archaeo l ogica l digs have unearthed art efacts from the I 4t h-century Java nese Majapahut Empi re.

All that r emai ns of th e fo 1tress the B1iti h militar y built in 1860 are its gate and a sec ti o n of gr anite, ea rth and brick wall entwined by fig ro ots. R ain tr ees shade path s me and erin g pas t gun batt eri es into th e c it y's fir st Christian ce meter y.

The tranquillity i s o nl y skin (o r rather grass) deep , for just below the sUJface, in th e Far East Co mm and Centre tunnelled into th e hill , one of the mo t dramatic day in Singapore 's hi story re-run s many times eac h day.

Through ho l ograp hi c im ages, an im atron i c figure s, arc hi val film footage and vo i ce-overs, the ' Battle Box' brings to li fe the ten si on SLIITOundin g the Allied Forces Command's decision to surrender to the inv ad in g Japanese on 15th February 1942.

Th e ten sion and foreboding , worsened by knowing what awaited the A l lied so l di er s in camp s and on the Burm a Railw ay, eases on le av in g th e tunnel s

Linger a w hile in th e park E njo y th e v iew of Sing apore and it s snakin g 1i ver. Then yo u might be ready to shop.

Sunday mornin g bird-singing practi ce

Story and photographs by Nancy Sullivan

Beautiful Margarima - the old airfield sits on top of the world. Everywhere you look a wide blue sky floats above the ring of close mountain ridges. It ' s 16 '" September, Independence Day 1998, and all of Margarirn a has turned out for a spectacular singsing with neighbouring Huli, Wola , Duna and Mendi people. The whole airfield is packed with men and women in dram a tic hand ome Southern Highlands dress.

Jodi Cobb , a National Geographic photographer is on an assignment to capture images of human beauty around the world. From the catwa lk s of Milan to the deserts of Ethiopia, Jodi has been documenting the ublime and the terrifying ways we make ourselves attractive to each other. Now, high in the Doma Peaks of Papua New Guinea , she ' s seeing the living breathing representation of highlands glamourmagnificent wigs, dramatic face paint and phalanxes of marching men with bird of paradise feathers swaying together above their headdresses.

Sixty-three years ago Jack Hides and Jim O ' Malley brought the first patrol through this region. They came north over the great humid Papuan Plateau a nd the rugged wastes of the Karius Range to enter the Tani and the Tari va ll eys, land of the Huli. From there, moving e a st , they entered the Was valley , where the tall wigs of the Wola men reminded Hides of ' black Pharaohs'.

' We are now in a country of different people ,' Hides wrote at the time, ' .. . bewigged , dark-skinned men, with voices deep and guttural.'

But w hil e th e Huli s tru ck bo th me n as p ro ud a nd a rro ga n t, un fr ie nd ly, dis inte res te d in w h a t th e p a t ro l h a d to offe r, th ese Wo la m e n a nd Huli we re hun gry fo r s h e ll s

' A ll t h ese peo pl e wa nte d pea rl a nd cow r y s h e ll ,' Hid es wro te , ' th o ug h I co uld see littl e o f thi s a m o ng th e m Th ey he ld up littl e bro ke n pi eces of p earl s he ll , a nd w ith a q uest ion in g l ook aske d if we h ad a n y. ' So me pea rl butto n s were sto le n off th e p a tro l office rs' s hirt s.

Of co urse t hese s he ll s we re va lu a bl e it e m s of tra d e. But t hey we re a lso pi eces of se lf-d ecora ti o n , so methin g no respec ta bl e So uth e rn Hi g hl a nde r co uld d o w ith o u t. Th ese vis iti ng patro l office rs were ca rr yi ng th e e qui va le nt of p rec io u s ge m s w he n th ey wa l ke d th ro u g h.

A yea r late r, w h e n F E W illi a m s , th e gove rnm e nt a nt hrop o log ist fi ew ove r M a rgarim a a nd th e Was va ll ey, he t h rew ou t h a nd fu ls of s he ll s w hi c h , he w ro te , 'co ul d be ee n fo r a lo n g ti me a s d imjni s hin g w hite s peck far in o ur rear No doubt some of th e m were fo un d , pi cke d up a nd m a r ve ll e d at as gifts fro m th e g rea t bird.' He a lso sa id th at he h oped no ne of th e m s u-u c k a n up ward -gaz in g v ill age r be t wee n th e eyes

T he sa me yea r, C h a m p io n a nd A d a m s took a p a t ro l

t h ro u g h th e a rea. I n a n attemp t to in sp ire v ill age rs to se ll t he m food, t hey t hr ew o p e n t h e ir patro l box fi ll ed wi th s h e ll s.

U nfo 11un ate ly t hi s o nl y i n sp ire d t h e awes tru ck hi g hl a nd e rs to t urn a nd b o lt in co nfu s io n

The best part of our being in Margarima was ou r completely goodhumoured reception. We had driven over the coo l lonely Tari Gap with friends from Ambua Lodge , a nd a provincial Police Commander Joe Wiji , whose smi le a nd reputation parted waves for u s through the crowds. Apart from a couple of missionaries , we we re the only o ut s iders amid s t the hundreds of participants. Everywhere kid , old p eople , teenager and whole singsing cadres greeted us enthusiastically and threw th e ir arms around eac h other to po se, proudly adjusti ng their s hell s , w igs and headdresses for Jodi ' s camera. She wa overwhelmed , and so was I.

The people sometimes dress transitionally , omewhere between Huli a nd Wola traditional dress, often wearing the Huli c rescents h aped wigs a lon g with the Wola bark belts, or some s uch mixture of key bi/as pieces. The Margarima people speak a dialect of Huli called Kaerinj, a nd often refer to themselves as Kaerinj people, to underscore the cu ltur a l differences that exis t between themselves and the more formidable Huli of the Tari Valley.

Prob ab ly the c l ea rest demonstration of this difference on Independence Day was the circ ul ar dancing that goes on all morning long. Men and women linking aims and dancing , hopping , stomping , in wide circles, with a ll the fervour and joy of an open-air disco. Never would you see men a nd women dancing ope nl y together in Tari. Here in Margarima it is c learl y the most populai· s in g sin g form. and best part of the day for everyone involved. Across the field Holli Ma e ia is belting it out at the grand tand while lots of sing le Huli men rock away in their yellow face paint a nd wigs. But the Margarima men and women are having the better time - arm-i n- arm , cha ntin g, laughing , te llin g rude jokes and breaking in to take the arm of their favourite partner.

singsi n g was utterly unlike a Margarima celebration of six ty yea r s ago, when Hid es and 0-Malley came through, someth ing about it seem eterna ll y true - all the strutting and hauteur of beautiful people catching the eye of the opposite sex. We see handsome, oiled men, yo un g, o ld , lo ve l y and coy young gi rl s with their mother s and auntie s, st rikin g l y painted and decorated. or covered with black ash. trolling purposefully, avoiding the direct glance of people from other clan tribes and areas. Here and there are boyfriends and gir lfri ends palming gifts of betel nut. hot buns and Hubb a Bubba bought at the roadside markets. Th ere's a you ng gir l wearing a cat hat and an o ld man in a flowered Huli wig, with glitter and wrap-around sunglasses. Double phalanxes of serious Huli dancer. came jumping in as their minders cleared the crowd with whipping twi gs, and everyo ne turned to adm ire them. Mendi groups clustered around wearing their magnificent wigs. Young boys had painted their faces half ochre, half white clay. their heads crowned with soft ferns. The Wola men with tanget and thin bark covering on their mu shroom- shaped wigs, were the first to take out umbrellas w hen it started to drizzle. Soon the field was dotted with pink and white plastic bags wrapped around preciou wig , in chat flashy way. on l y Southern Highlander know how to mix old and new. It's al l abo ut style, co l our and shock va lu e. There was even a man dressed up as a widow, who. when I asked where his susu had gone, laughed and said that all his kids have sucked them dry, then taunted , •Na rn ? H11sat dringim susl/ bilong yu?'

To

hlands

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A Boy Is Born: Corpus Christi Carol Op 3

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Father And Son

Ca t Stevens I SLAND

You've Got a Friend Carole King EP I C

Change The World

Eric C l apton REPRISE

Taking You Home

Don Hen ley WARNER BROS.

Lyin ' Eyes

The Eagles TIME LIFE

The Sounds Of Silence

Simon & Garfunkel Co lumbi a

Hold Me In Your Arms Southern Sons RCA

How Sweet It Is (To Be Loved B y You ) K enny Rogers DR EAMCATCHER/EP I C

The Air That I Breathe Simply Red EAST WEST

The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face Celine Dion EPIC

I eed You

Lee Ann Ri mes CAPITOL

Woman John Lennon CAP ITO L

Little Wing Th e Co rr s ATLANTIC

Brand New Da y

Sting

A&M RECORDS

COMEDY Channel: 9

The Window of Life

Bill Cosby GEFFEN

We 've Got a Full Hou e Bill Engvall WARNER

Holiday Accommodation C lub Veg SICK DAY RECORDS

Jasper at 45 Jaspe r Carrott EM I

Rowan Atkinson Interviews Elton John Rowan Atkin on EM I

Excerpt from the Best of Comic Relief

Steven Wright RH! 0

Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life

Monty Python V IRGI

COUNTRY

Channel: 10

Honey I Do

D anni L eigh

MO M ET

TV Or Me

Me lin da Sc hn eider COM PASS BR OS.

La s t Hard Bible

K asey C hambe r s EMI

On The Road Again

Willi e Nel so n COLU MBI A

Hello Mr. Heartache

Di x ie C hi ck s MO U M E T

COUNTRY

Channel: 10

I'm Diggin' It A lec i a Elli ot M CA

Amazed L ones t ar B A R EC ORD S

Achy Breaky Heart

Bill y Ray Cy ru s M E RCU RY

Rhinestone Cowboy G len Cam pb ell EMI

That's The Wa y

Jo D ee M ess in a EPI C

Good Things In Life

Ada m B ra nd COMPA SS BROS :

Ju s t Another Da y In Paradise

Phil Vassa r ARISTA

CHILDREN'S

Channel: 11

CHILDREN'S

Channel: 11

The Lion King arr ate d by Rafi k i WA LT DIS E Y

The Lion Sleeps Tonight Th e Toke ns EMI

Little Ms. Muffet Rac hel Sumn er RAC H EL' S REC ORD S

Taha Naba

Th e Wi gg l es fea turin g C hri stin e A nu AB C

The Magic Finger Roa ld Dahl N / A

Morningtown Ride

Th e Wi gg l es fe aturin g Jimm y Littl e A BC

Walk the Dinosaur Th e Tin Lid s M USHROOM

I Love To Have A Dance With Dorothy Th e Wi gg l es featurin g Slim Du st y ABC

The Bo y Who Turned Himself Into A Peanut Arl o Guthri e LIGHTY EA R

Pokemon Theme Pok em on - Mu sic From Th e TV Seri es KO C H

Boys From The Bush

L ee K ern ag han RCA

Darwin Jailhouse Window

L ee K ern ag han

w ith Tex M ort on A BC CO UNT RY

King Of The Road

Roge r Mill er EMPO RIO

Jolene

D o ll y Part on

BO X

e Chi cks

I Hope You Dance L ee Ann Womac k MCA NASHVILLE

Couldn ' t Last A Moment C ollin Raye SONY

The Most Beautiful Girl Charlie Ri ch BOX

FOUR PARTS

&

Dixi

FEATURE FILMS

International flights: from Port Moresby to Port Moresby

SEPTEMBER

Where the Money Is Romeo Must Die

Genre: Comedy R ated : PG - 13

From : U ni ve r sal 89 min s

H enry Mannin g i s an eld erly famou s bank robb er who c on s hi s way o ut of pri o n by pretendin g he's had a strok e.

Thinkin g th at he·s harml ess, H enry i s tran sf erred to a nur sin g h o me A bored , sm all town bea uty, workin g as a nurse, di scove r s he's fa kin g, so tri e to persuade H enry to teac h her and her hu sband hi s o ld lin e o f wo rk

Featur in g: Paul New m a n, Linda Fiorentino, Dermot Mulroney

Director: Marek Kanievska

Gen re: Act ion/Drama Rated : PG - 13

From : W arn er 9 4 min s

A sian and Af,i can- Am eri can gangs w·e vy in g for co ntrnl o f Oakl and' s wa terfront. Wh en th e As i an war-lord's so n Po di es, the news get.5 bac k to Po s bi g brother Han, an ex-cop, irnp,i son ed in a H ong K ong jail. Wh en H,m com es to Ame,i ca in search o f the truth , he uncove rs a wo rld of weapo ns, vic i ous 1i vahi es w1d v iolent be trayals. H an does n"t use wea pon s, he i s a weapo n Featur in g: J et Li, Aa li ya h, Isaiah Washington, Ru sse ll Wong

Director: A ndrzej Bartkowiak

Avis vehicles are available from 13 convenient locations throughout Papua New Guinea. Choose from PNG 's largest and most modern fleet. Special discount to Air Niugini passengers and we are a pa rtner in 39 Frequent Flyer programmes.

Genre: Comedy R ated : PG - 13

Fro m : F ox

When a stre e t- smart FBI ag ent i s sent to G eo rg i a to prot ec t a bea utiful sin g l e m o th er and her so n fr o m an esca ped co n v i c t , he i s fo r ce d to imp er so nate a c ra ss So uth ern g ranny kn ow n as Bi g Momm a in o rder to rem ain in cog nito.

Featuring: Martin Lawrence , ia

Long, Paul Giamatti

Director: Raja Gosne ll

Channels 1 and 2

Genre: Act ion R ated: PG-1 3

From: Param o unt 126 min s

Eth an Hunt lead s hi team to re- capture and des troy a dea dl y v iru s befo re it fall s int o th e w ron g hand s

Featuring: Tom Cruise , Vin g Rh ames, Ant hony Hopkins, Dougray Scott

Director: John Woo

Varadise lnfliaht l)ub' r=ree

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Air Niugini accepts most major currencies, travellers' cheques and leading credit cards.

LOCAL CUISINE - Banana Party!

By Celine Peter

ana na i s just anothe r wo nd er that reveals Papua New Guinea's rich biodiversity. Rosa, an ag ri cu ltural sc i ent i st, aston i shed me when telling me the numb er of banana variet i es that grow here. They are almost as many as our l anguages' The huge vaiiety of bananas is illu strated in markets all aro und the country. As for eating banana, this i s not hin g new to any of us. We eat them raw, cooked on the fire, boiled o r fried. Any way is good'

For a start , I invite yo u to a banana desse rt party, with so me recipe s utili sin g 1ipe bananas. I l eave it to yo u whic h vari ety of mau banana yo u wish to use, but do choose them very ripe. E njoy with no moderation.

2~ c up s of plain flour

I cup sugar

3~ tsp bakin g powder

I tsp sa lt

3 tbsp o il

3cup milk

I egg, li ghtl y beaten

1 c up mas hed ripe banana

Mix flour, baking powder, sugar and sa lt. Then add oi l , milk, egg and finally banana and nuts. Pour batter into grease d cake pan and bake at l 80oC for abo ut o ne hour.

Insert a fo rk in the middle. If it comes out c l ean, the cake is cooked.

Loosen sides and remove immediately from th e pan.

Very good eaten with butter and jam.

ts

1c up butter

I cup sugar

I egg

I cup mashed banana

I cup oatmea l

I ~ c up flour

tsp baking powder

tsp salt

tsp cinnamon

tsp nutm eg

Beat toge th er butter and suga r until creamy; add egg and beat well. Mix in bananas and oats. Sift together flour, baking powder, sa l t and sp i ces. Add to the c ream mixture and mi x thoroughly.

Drop a t ab l espoon of mixture o n to greased trays and bake in oven ( I 80°C) for 12- 15 minutes.

Beat together egg and sugar unti I c rea my; acid flour and beat we ll. Bring milk just to th e boil. Pour milk sl owly int o the mixture and stir we ll.

Cook for a few minutes until the cream thickens. Pour int o sma ll bowls and l eave to coo l.

In a frypan , cook bananas in butter. When they are nearly ready, spr inkl e 2 tbsp of sugar over them and cook for one minute mo re Put the bananas on top of the cus tard s and serve.

An altern ative is to flame the bananas with one or two tables poons of rum before serv in g

4 rip e bananas, c ut into half len gthwi se

2 tb sp butter

2 tbsp sugar

1m:

litre milk

4 eggs

8 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp plain fl our

tsp salt

2 ripe bananas

I pawpaw

2 app l es

2 lim es

I ora nge

3 pass i o nfrui t

3 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp of currants (opt i onal )

Cut the pawpaw in half. Remove part of the flesh in one half of the pawpaw so that it can be used as a 'bowl' for the fruit sa l ad but l eave eno ugh flesh on the sk in so that it i s not too fragile. Chop the fl es h into pieces.

Peel ba nan as, apples and ora nge and cut int o sma ll pieces. Put all fruit pieces and passionfruit in to the pawpaw 'bowl'. Squeeze lime jui ce over fruit.

In a sma ll pan , melt sugar in 2 tbsp of water. Put in cu1Tants. Pour over the fruit salad and mix wel l.

Place in refrigerator fo r at leas t one hour before serv in g. Serve with biscuits, cake, cream or ice cream.

Welcome!

Getting Around: At Jackson ' s Airpo1t, which is 11 km from the centre of Po,t More by, there are rental car counters, a bank and duty free shops. Major hotels have a courtesy bus to and from the airport. Taxis have meters. Within the city, PMVs (pub li c motor vehicles) cost 50 toea per journey. Elsewhere, PMVs, taxis a nd hire cars a.re avai lable.

Useful Port Moresby Numbers: Air iugini Info1mation 3273480: Reservations & Confomation 3273555 (Domestic) and 3273444 (International): Police 000; Ambulance 3256822.

Currency: Papua New Guinea's unit of cun-ency is the Kina which is divided into I 00 toea. Exchange your money at Jackson's Airport or in banks which a.re open from 8.45am to 3pm, Monday to Thursday and until 4pm on Friday. Credit cards are accepted in leading hotels and shops.

Customs and Quarantine: Adults over 18 have a general allowance of new goods to the value of K.250 and a.re allowed duty free:

• 200 c igarette or 50 cigars or 250grams of tobacco

• One litre of a lcohol

• A reasonab le amount of pe1fume Drugs, pornographic literature or video tapes , firearms and weapons are prohibited. Food items , seeds, spices, live or dry plants, animals. animal products and biological specimens such as cultures and blood need special impott approval .

Languages: Although over 800 lan g uages are poken in Papua New Guinea, English is th e languag e of ed ucation and commerce. Tok Pisin is widely spoken and Hiri Motu is common in Papua.

Time: Papua ew Guinea is IO hours ahead of GMT, in the san1e tinie zone as Eastern Australia. There is no daylight saving.

Communication: ISD, STD and facsimile services are avai lab le in mo st areas. Large towns hav e public telephones. Phone cards can be used in some Many rural areas have radio phones.

Driving: Drivers' licences issued in other countries are valid for 3 months after arrival. Vehicles travel on the left side of the road; speed limits a.re 60kph in built-up areas and 80kph out of town.

Electricity: Electricity supp ly is 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Some hotels hav e 110 volt outlets for s havers and h a ir dryers.

Health: Water quality is within WHO standards in most towns. Bottled water is available. In rural areas it is advi ab le to boil water. As malaria continues to be a health risk in the country, anti-malaria tablets should be taken two weeks before an-ival, during your stay and for 4 weeks after depaiture. Use insect repellent and wear lon g-sleeved shi1ts, trousers ai1d shoes in the evening. Dentists, doctors and hosp ita ls ai·e in all major centres . Rural ai·eas have health centres and aid posts staffed by trained health workers.

Dress: For most occasions, dress is informal. Thongs and sho1ts ai·e not allowed in some bars and restaurants. Lightweight clothing is suitable for coastal areas but a sweater or jacket will be needed in the highlands.

Restaurants: Western c ui sine is avai lab le in hotels, restaurants, guest houses and lodges. Port Moresby has several Asian restaurants. Some hotels especially in the provinces serve local food such as roast pork, chicken or fish with sweet potato , tai-o, yain , pumpkin, banana and greens cooked in coconut milk.

Tips: Tips a.re neither expected nor encouraged.

Shopping: Lai·ge stores and aitifact shops offer a variety of goods for sale. Saturday is a half day for most shops and neai·ly all are closed on Sunday. Artisans sell their craft beside the roads or in markets. All markets sell a wide range of fruits ai1d vegetables.

Cultural Events: Celebrations of traditional cu lture include:

June Port Moresby Show

August Mt Hagen Show

September Hiri Moale Festival Port Moresby; Goroka Show October Maborasa Festival Madang; Morobe Show

Export Rules: Many a.rtifacts, historical and cultural objects a.re prohibited expmts. Others require a permit from the ational Museum. Export petmits for wildlife and animal products a.re issued by the Nature Conservation Divison of the Depaitment of Environment and Conservation.

Tourism Promotion Authority, PO Box 1291, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Phone: 320 0211 Fax: 320 0223 Email: tourismpng@dg.com.pg

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