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Art icles exp ress the opinion of 63 the auth or s an d not necessarily of Air N iu gin i or Mora uta & Associates. Ed itorial contrib utions will be handled 7 with reasonable care. T he 18 publis h er, however, ass umes no 29 respons ibility for the safety of 30 photograph , artwork or 32 manuscr ipts.
LEWADA
One hundred kilometres up the Fly River
ART - OLD AND NEW
The richer the patina - the greater the value
FRANK HURLEY'S GULF OF PAPUA
Eerie men's houses
SMALL STONE - BIG RIPPLES
Community self help at Hariawi
BOOK REVIEW
Orchids of Papua New Guinea
HANDSOME HANSA BAY
North coast of Madan g Province
BRIDE PRICE IN KAMALI
Traditional Hula style
PHOTOGRAPH COMPETITION
The flower of Nokondi
BEAUTIFUL BOUGAINVILLE & BUKA
Busines s and tourism are growing
DESTINATION
Surprising Singapore
CRANE PACIFIC EXPEDITION
An American expedition 1928 - 1929
PEARL OF PNG & THE PACIFIC
Submarine Base Resort Hotel
LOCAL GOURMET FOOD
Kakaruk - Cocorico ! ! !
ON BOARD
In.flight 34
Have Fun!
This issue of Paradise features holiday destinations and activities from distant corners of Papua New Guinea - village life up the mighty Fly R iver in Western P rovince, a traditional bride. price ceremony in coastal Hula, the beautiful north coast of Madang Province , burgeoning business and tourist activities in Bougainville , to a quiet tropical beach resort in East New Britain.
For those interested in history, we have a fascinating account of an American expedition to the South Seas in the late 1920s, extracts from Frank Hurley's famous book about the Gulf, also with photographs from the 1920s , and a glimpse of old and new Singapore.
Art lovers will enjoy Liz Thompson's kaleidoscope of art from all over the country - the Sepik of course, Milne Bay, Oro and Central Provinces.
Enjoy your flight , and your stay in Papua New Guinea.
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One hundred kilometres upstream , the Fly River has narrowed to a mere four kilometres wide compared to about eighty at the mouth. With a five-metre rise and fall of the tide, millions of tonnes of water are effortlessly moved by tremendous power up and down the lower pait of that mighty river each day.
Unmindful of the magnitude and significance of this daily display of Divine hydraulics, the people of Lewada village count on it in their everyday lives.
Stately deep-hulled ocean-going outrigger canoes ride at their moorings. At the turn of the tide , people with gardens or sago trees upstream board their vessels to be carried swiftly by the current, aided by sails, outboard motors or paddles. Tho se going downstream similarly utilise the ebb tide. The outrigger design allows a large area of deck s pace on these big canoes.
So immense is the volume of water flowing down the nine hundred kilometres of this great river that it keeps at bay the salt water of the Gulf of Papua. Only in very dry seasons does the water in the Fly delta become brackish.
Vast flood plains and low island s have been fom1ed by silt the Fly has depo ited. Much of this goes under water on the big monthly tides, so areas selected for gardens by village people have networks of drains to quickly carry away water once the tide recede s. The alluvial so il promotes rapid growth of ago tree , coconuts and plantations of large cooklng bananas, the staple diet of riverside villagers on the Lower Fly.
Familie work together in the arduous labour of clearing thick undergrowth , digging drains and planting the bananas and other vegetable crops. Once the bananas reach a stage when flying foxes and cockatoos would start to destroy them the gardeners have to wrap the bunches tightly with long streamers of dead banana leaves joined together. In the dark, damp tight confines of these big parcels the bananas mature and ripen (photos below).
While their canoes are anchored out in the swift current, other Lewada folk fish for how·s each day with hand lines. Many have nets, which are set close to the bank at 1ight angles to the river. The river and the land yield a good diet for these people.
Insp ec tin g and cleaning fish net
While the men are wrapping bananas the women are busy making sago. Often the family will stay some days at the garden or sago camp. With work completed and canoes loaded with produce they cast off and are carried downstream to the village by the strong ebb current. Even as they travel, the industrious women prepare vegetables ready for cooking when they arrive home.
Cooking sago infrying pan
An active Evangelical local church has had significant influence in fitting many of Lewada 's citizens for life during the last forty years.
The clanging of the Aid Post bell at 8am begins the worklng day for the well-trained medical staff responsible for the health of the villagers.
ut
Grating cocon
Another bell calls c hildren to schoo l at abo ut the same time (photo above). These vi ll age schools are beset by such problems as lack of materials, and teachers having to journey by dinghy over a hundred kilometres to Da.ru to pick up their pay and purchase supp li es. Despite s uch things that mitigate against learning , chi ldren with ability and tenacity from the e sma ll village schools make it to Teachers ' Colleges , Nurse Training Schools , National High Schools , Universit ies and onto careers resulting from that training. Others end up holding well -p aid commercial jobs in places far distant from their home on the bank of the great heaving Fly.
Un loading canoe th at has be en dragged up on the mud
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our new airconditioned motel rooms with ensuite bathroom , TV and tea and coffee making facilities.
(PNC)
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A s peo pl e throu ghout Papu a N ew Guin ea so clev erly utili se th e natural force s and reso urces th at surro und th em , so L ewad a r es id ent s wre st a good livin g from the water and th e bu sh, enablin g th em to live full and c ont ented liv es.
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Ab ove : Wome n re turnin g.fro m th e ga rd e n an dfi s hin g
B el ow: Ki ck in g g ree n coco nuts d ow n fo r drinkin g
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Art - o an~ New
In traditional Papua New Guinean soc 1et 1es, beautiful objects were m ade for ceremonial ritu a li s tic a nd utilitarian rea so ns Carved ceremonial figures were often hidden from view when not in u se, as they were believed to hold considerable powers, to act as link s with the ancestral and s pirit world. As a re s ult they were regarded with both fear and respect.
Clay pot s, beautifully decorated bowl s and ornately painted canoes were made for food, cook in g and transpo11ation. The fact they often held clan designs or the markin gs of bush or clan spi1·its had more to do with a sense of identity and s pirituality than it did with the idea of m ak in g so methin g aesthetically pleasing.
Today , the se objects, whether they were mad e for ceremonial or utilitarian purpo ses, are known as 'artefacts' or 'traditional art'. The piece have entered another dimen sio n, far from the original intention of the creator. They have entered the market place and are now viewed as works of 'A 11'. It 's not only aesthetics that gives value to piece s in thi s new and so mewhat alien sp here. The more an object ha s been handled and used , pai1icularly in ceremony, the greater the resonance of its collective energy. The richer the patina of an object, often correspondingly, the greater is its value.
This sudden and significant interest in a people's creative expression ha s led to the production and mai·keting of many thousands of carvings, pots, bowl s and the like Unlike the pieces before them , these 'a11efacts ' are specifically created for tourists and artefact dealers , not for use by those who are creating them. A contemporary manufacturing of the ' traditional ' has become popular and with it the introduction of a relatively new concept, the idea of an 'at1' object.
A beautiful examp le of a Trobriand Island grass skirt - this one is to be worn at a Sagali, a traditi ona l funeral ceremony. Prev ious ly a utilitarian and ceremon ial object, grass skirts ca n now be purchased by tourists as a keepsak e and by co ll ec tors for sale.
Below: Traditional shell ornament decorated with plastic beads and worn for th e Sagali ce remony held for Chief Nalubutau. These ornament~ depict traditi ona l designs held by ce rtain clan groups
One of the kitom used in the Kula Trading Ring in the Trobriand Islands. Armbands and ne ck laces travel clockwise and co unterclo ckvv ise around a circle of islands. Jn the past they were carried by outrigger canoes on voyages that often lasted for weeks by sailors who navigated by the stars and the ocean curre nts. These highly prized items are still in circu lation and the Kula Trading Ring is very much alive.
Story and photographs by Liz Thompson
Above:
Left: An armband traditi ona ll y woven from s tr an d s of thinl y rolled bark. Worn o n th e upp e r arm, th ese are popular with ro urisrs and so ld ar arrefacr shops and h ote ls around th e co untr y.
Right: A decorated lim e go urd p o t made from a dried go urd and pi g tu sk. Thi s pot i s used to srore th e lim e , w hi ch is ch ewed with b e te l nut. Artefact s h ops sell d oze ns of th e m in a Fariety of shapes and sizes.
Above: Th e de co rated fa ce of a p o t made in Aibom , a small villag e in th e East S epik Provin ce, which sits at the entran ce to Chambr i Lak es Thes e p ots were and still are usedforfood storage, most oft e n sago . Man y of th e visitors who travel on th e Sepik Riv er bu y similar p o ts Th e faces us ed to de co rate Aibom cla y pots , man y of w hi ch are made usin g th e co il tec hniqu e. d epi ct animals and bush spirits.
Below: Aibom p o ts are displa ye d be nea th a h o us e. For th ose to urists who purchas e a p ot, th ey are wrapped in a thick la ye r of palm fronds and bound with twine.
Above: A cassowary bo n e da gge r is us ed as a spatula f o r lim e.
Lim e is ea te n with b etel nut. M os t co mm o nly it is pla ce d in th e mouth on a lon g p epp e r s ti ck but so m e p eopl e, parti cularly th ose of high status o r c hi efs. use o rnat e ly d eco rat ed impl em e nts such as this to dra w lim e from th e go urds o r pla sti c co ntain e rs in which it is stored.
Be low: N ec kla ces made of cut shells and thread ed onto roll ed bark twine. Thes e n ec kla ces were made by villagers on th e S epik Riv e r. Th ey were no t made with th e inte ntio n of sale, thou g h th ey were lat e r purc has ed.
Above: A mask being carved in Tambanum village-in th e Midd le Sepik area. Some particularly stunn in g masks and carv in gs we re created in the Sepik R eg ion, n ow known as the carv in g wo rkshop/factory of Papua New Guinea Many of these o ld wo rks ha ve already been bought by co ll ec tors or are now in the hands of the Papua New Guinea National Museum Today th e people of the Sepik recognise that carv in g is a major industry and a reliab le form of income. They produce large quantities of carv in gs for sa le While this partic ular mask is a reasonably large piece , much of th e work produced is in the form of small figures that are often buried in the ground for a period of tim e in order to g i ve them a more authenti c 'aged' appearance. Carving makes a subs tantial contr ibuti on to the cash flow of the Sepik people
Left: A female suspension hook used for han g in g con tain ers holding food or bi/um bags. Now , part of th e Papua New Guinea Museum Collection, it comes from Tolemba village in the Middle Sepik, East Sepik Provin ce.
canoe prow of a high ly decorated canoe in
- the designs used to decorate both the canoes and th e paddles belong spec!fica/ly to clans and villages. A man told a story in which he suggested that owne rsh in is so specific and highly va lu ed that if anyone dared to decorate their canoe with someone else's design the owner of the design would come along and cut out the offend in g section of the canoe.
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The
Sissano Lagoon
Left: Axes beo11t(fully ho1111d 11 ·i1h ,•ine are used.for earring on the Sepik Ri, er. While rhe Sepik people use sleet h/odes they conlinue to utilise the traditional prncrice of hinding with l'ine.
Right: This chm maskji-0,11 u l'i!lage in the Middle Sepik was taken 0111.fcJr a ceremony. It is still used hy the people 1t>ho created it.for the ceremonial purpose for which it was made. In between use, it is stored in the Spirit House where the men care for it.
Tapa cloth is now being produced as a conlemporary commercial art form by rhe Maisin community on rhe northeasrern coast of Papua New Guinea. The cloth is madeji'Oln rhe pounded bark of a certain kind of mulberry tree. Traditionally Tapa was used primarily as clothing. bedding, as sacred clan designs used in healing ceremonies and other rituals, and as a form ofwealrh. Greenpeace International have become invo!Fed in trying ro assist the Maisin in marketing their Tapa and the Maisin people have established rhe Maisin Tapa Enterprises. The hope is that the Tapa will not only be arrractive ro wholesalers and importers. bur also ro interior design shows, museum shows, corporate collections. on-line marketing , commissions, environmental catalogues and product developers, such as designers or clothing manufacturers.
A tortoise shell decoration worn by a Motuan woman at the Independence Celebrations at Ela Beach. A traditional form of decoration, it is seen here with a grass skirt. These decorations also carry clan designs.
Frank Hurley's Gulf of Papua
Hi s ce remonia l house laulu e lavo enters Meavea
H e pulls up the maiko sago leaf decorations and is ancho rin g them. They hang on the ce ilin g and rustle.
Decorated coconuts, Pevoa s h ell adornment, Ca r ved boards with f in e patterns a re sus p ended Goes an o ld E lem a song
IL was in the vast lowl and s to both sid es of the ce ntral range w here th e people dwelling at the banks of the mighty rivers, Sepik and Ramu in the north and Fly, Kikori and Purari in the south, developed distinctive cu ltures of abu nd ant diversity in both ce remonial and material express i o ns. While the vario us Sepik c ultures soo n ga in ed a worldwide rep ut atio n for their artis ti c sk ill , for some reason th e cultures from the Gulf of Papua have lon g been neg l ected.
My fir st co ntac t with th e Gulf culture was Frank Hurley's book Pearls and Savages in which he narrates his journey in the Gulf Region in the 1920s. I read it when I was a boy and I alm ost devoured the book, so thrilling was it to fo ll ow Hurley w hen he co nt ac ted th e people, and entered their most sac red places, the eer ie men's houses or ravi.
These are buildings up to I00m lon g and some 25m high , thus dominating th e surro undin g o rdin ar y houses that are about half the size. Th e front of a ravi alw ays opens w id e to resemble a giant mouth, as if threate nin g to devour the one who i s appro ac hin g. Its pitched roof sl ants down and narrow s tow,uds th e rea r
Story and photographs taken in U rama vi ll age by Holger Braun
Photographs taken from Pearls and Savages by Frank Hurley, Jacaranda Press Hongkong , 1981
In the v ill age of Urama, the Austra li an photographer Frank Hurl ey vent ures into one of these ravi - We stood on the thresho ld of a grea t hall that extended like a vast cavern to a remote g loom. On the .floor some fo rty or fifty s leeping forms snored their aftemoon s iesta. From the rocl and wa lls [hung] an ama zing co ll ection offantastic masks in various stages of constru c tion.
The huge number of artefac ts co ll ected in the ravi is not surpri sing as during those times nearly all aspec t s of ritu al li fe involved the making of art objects (photo below).
Both sides of t h e aisle are the clan-se ctio ns, called l avara.
The Elema trib e hav e a g rea t sea sp irit cyc le based on a be lief in vast lege ndary monsters li ving in Orokolo Ba y. In th e s helter of the ni g ht a g reat crowd of men ga th e r s ilently on the beac h and then , breaking int o an un ea ,,hly uproar, pay a visit lo the puzzled women and children in the village before w ithdra wing to mingle again into the dominatin g so und of a roaring sea. The sea sp irit s thu s have re turn ed to th e ir e le m e nt.
Hurley goes further: For three hundred feet we walked along an aisle. with the hea1•y cons tru ctional p oles on eith e r s ide. Th ese p o les, as well as supporting rhe roof, marked the limit s of lavara or cubicles which contained numbers of rema rkabl y can •ed plaques, probably represe ntin g ancestral sp irit s.
In th e Wapo Creek area, west of the Purari River, the lavara are partitioned by grills with a skull in each aperture. As trophie s from headhunt s, the sk ulls a re particularly esteemed, as the greater th e ir number, the g reater the reputation of their po ssesso r. B e neath th e rack there are the ova l-s haped gape board s Each is uniqu e and does not resemble another. They are brilliantly carved, outli nin g the traits of human faces They are owned individually and are sometimes left from father to so n Among other functions, they ,We s uppo sed to ward off s ickne ss and other iU s In front of th e gape boards lie sk ulls of pigs and crocodiles.
Common to all art objects in the Gulf is th e be li ef by th e people that th ey possess a certain amount of imunu , a difficult te1111 but ha s been tran s lat ed as vital s tre n gt h It is a quality th a t e nd ows a n object with individuality and s upern a tural power that may be tran sfe rred to it s poss esso r.
The very rear of th e ceremonial hou se of th e Namau people is a hol y area and partitioned off from the re st. Lik e a s hrine it hide s away the most sacred thing in th e people's cosmos.
Hurley is heading for it s discovery: Squee::ing through a narrow opening we were blindedfor the moment by the darkness, but obvious ly we had scared great numbers
of bats and ve rmin As o ur eyes penetrated the g loom we discm •e red that we we re in an apartment some fifty feet in l eng th by fifteen in width: the roof had tap e redfim11 the entrance, and was now on ly ten feet high. Grouped closely toge th er we re se 1 1e11tee11 wild and eerie effig ies , th e sacred and dread K op irai •i.
Above: The kopiravi monsters in the partitioned-off part of the men 's house at Kaimari. Together with the bull-roarers they are part of a special cult. Below left: Performance in front of the men's house
Below right: Each section (lavara) in the ravi bears a skull ra ck and some gope boards.
IF YOU HAVE THE IAND, THE HOME IS.. l ,,EASY. . 'I !'
Th ese kop i rav i are hu ge four-legged beasts w ith ga pin g jaws Th ey are co ns tru c ted of wicke rw o rk a nd play a certain role in th e initiati o n of th e boys. K o pirm i are imun u .
Hurl ey th en co ntinu es: Beneath eac h was pla ced a ca re_fiill y sea led package which made us exceedin g ly c uri o us
Wh e n he ventured to o pe n s uch a bundl e, it contained sacred bullro a re rs - ova l pi eces of wood that sw in g o n a cord a nd so und lik e thund e r.
The bullroarers are us ua lly so und e d at initi a tion ce re moni es. A ce ntral th e me of m a ny Gu lf trib es is obvious here Lik e the ravi its e lf with it s e ntranc e rese mbling jaw s th a t see m s to litera ll y devour the e nte rin g me n , at th e initi a ti o n cere mon y, the kopiravi is sa id to sy mbolically swa llo w th e young boy, while he is carried aro und in th e mon s ter 's m o uth The roarin g o f the bullroare rs is thought to be th e voices of th e monste rs.
After the bo y's lib e rati o n from the kop ira vi , he is co ns id e red rebo rn and now ge ts in s tru c tion in th e secrets of th e po we rful kopiravi and th e bullroare rs.
The use of Gulf a rt as a n expression of religiou s beliefs d ec lin e d wh e n western id eas penetrate d more and more throu g h th e co ur se of the ce ntur y. But thank s to people lik e Frank Hurl ey, so m e fin e exa mpl es of thi s uniqu e a ,t sty le have bee n saved a nd can s till be ad mire d Unfortunately it is di s pe rsed all ove r the world, in mu se um s of Papu a N ew Guinea, Australia, America and Europe.
It is a thrilling thought that th e Gulf people might have been right , believing that the imunu of th e ir artefacts in c reases w ith age And whoever is aware of thi s will s urely feel their pow er, e nco unterin g th e m in th e ir m odern la va ra of sec urity g l ass in th e ravi of today - the mu se um s
Above: Frank Hurl ey purchasing artefacts ji-om th e people Be low: ' the ravi 's front o p e n s wide to r ese mble a g iant mouth th a t is threatening t o de vo ur th e one wh o is app roac hin g.' M aipua vi lla ge in / 9 / 2. Ph o t o tak enji-om D oug las New ton: Art Styles from the Papuan Gulf, Univ e r s ity Publish e r s, New Yo rk 19 6 1.
Purari d e lta bull- roa re r Ri g ht : Sorcerer's c h a rm s made of ' decorated coco nuts ' ( m e nti oned in th e Elema song)
e • reco n1se •
otent1a •
The Public Officers Superannuation Fund is one of PNG's leading investors.
The P.O.S.F. manages the superannuation contributions of PNG's public servants. That's a big r espo nsibility.
It's also a big opportunity b eca use we inv es t this money to incr ease the savings of public servants and, on a broader scale, to benefit everyone inP NG.
We do this by recognising sound, profitable investments. It may be land or building developments, mining, commercial ventures, in fact anywhere we see potential for the future.
Sometim es our investm e nts are short term.
Som et imes long term. But we always invest with the aim of bringing a re turn to our members and overall growth to the future of PNG.
Because we know that, just as with flowers, if we nurture pot e ntial carefully, we'll have a beautiful future.
To discuss your particular sound business proposal, please contact the Managing Director by telephone on 321 2382, or by fax on 321 2745.
Dendrobium Alba Tabo is an orchid unique to Papua New Guinea, a country rich in flora and fauna. It's also a country rich in human resources promising a bright future.
The POSF plans to enrich that promise by turning today 's potential into tomorrow 's growth.
PYRAMID CHANGE
Add one letter at a time, as you climb down the pyramid from the top to the bottom. Form a new word each time. You may have to move the letters around
n
The names of nine planets and four other heavenly bodies are hidden in this puzzle. The planet names are mixed up, so you will have to unravel them first.
Q 1. Can you work out how many 75g choco late bars there are in a dozen chocolate bars?
Q2. The Large Boring Bookworm is l 0cm thick. It has 3,000 pages, and its covers are made of cardboard which is Hem thick. How far through the book (in ems) must the worm eat in order to reach page number 1,000?
Q3. When Joe died, he left all his pigs to his relatives. His niece, Mary was to have half; nephew Kua, one-third; and cousin-brother, Jon, one-ninth. None were to be shared, sold, given away or killed. Uncle was to work it out. This was difficult because there were 17 pigs.
How did Uncle do what Joe wanted?
MAGIC NUMBER SQUARES
3 6 1 9
All the lines of numbers (across, down and diagonally) add up to 18. No number is the same as another. Find the missing numbers.
KNOTS
When two of the ropes are pulled, they will have knots in them. Which two?
6
12 8 4
All the lines of numbers (across, down and diagonally) add up to 24. No number is the same as another. Find the missing numbers.
Small StoneBig Ripples
Story and photographs by Keith Briggs
Perched on a high ridge with a magnificent panoramic view of the Tari Valley is Hariawi, a cluster of neat, thatched traditional buildings among fenced gardens. Tari Valley in the Southern Highlands Province is home to the Huli people. Highlanders do not have communal villages as are found at lower altitudes. Family homes are dotted throughout the countryside surrounded by their own gardens They do not have a 'village' school, medical aid post or church as such. These are placed in a spot central to a given population, and people consider them as focal points, where they come together to benefit from the services each provides.
A Hariawi landowner provided a portion of ground for a church, pastor's house and Bible School. Having a church in an area like that means the pastor and his wife, as part of their mini try, will teach folk to read and write, using the vernacular New Testament as text. Missionaries and local translators have been working for years on the Huli Old Testament, aiming to have the whole Huli Bible under one cover by the end of 2000.
Members realise the double benefit of being built up in their faith while they acquire literacy skills which open up to them a whole new world of communication. Leaming the basics in their Qwn language enables people to quickly grasp Tok Pisin, a language in which there is a tremendous range of Christian and good secular literature.
Pastor Simon Habe and his wife (photo above) have the oversight of Hariawi. The church members work with them in the garden, supplied materials and helped build their home. They are in the process of building a Bible Training School to serve their area. It is truly
The role of a trne church is to equip people for living , ba<;ed on biblical principles. For this reason missionaries and members of the Evangelical Church of Papua New Guinea have made a strong priority of teaching rural people to read and write. As people learn, they in tum conduct classes to share their new found skill with others. Through books they can learn about basic health, hygiene, disease, how to care for their babies and families, good maniage skills, disciplining and raising children, family planning, crops, breeding better pigs, gardening techniques, soil conservation and an almost endless list of things we take for granted.
A pleasant visit to Hariawi, including a delicious mumu meal cooked in a ground oven, helps one realise that a village pastor doesn't just ring the chu1ch bell once a week for a short service. He is a vital member of the community dedicated to the spiritual and practical welfare of his people, ultimately making a vital contribution to the development of the nation.
BOOK REVIEW - Orchids of Papua New Guinea
Review by Downs Matthew
Photographs by Roy and Margaret Mackay
Giv en th e world 's fa sc ination with orchid s and the popularity of book s about th em , it is surpri sin g that s o littl e has been written about th e orchid s of Papua New Guin ea. Thi s tropical island is nature 's perfe ct orchid greenhou se where climate , weather, and topo graphy combine to encoura ge botanical div ersity. Orchid s abound. But event s of history and the nature of the place combined to di s courage inve stigation until relativ ely recent times
T h e p io n eeri ng Ge r ma n botan i st
F R R Sc hl ec hte r arr ive d in Pap ua New G uin ea s h o rtl y afte r th e turn of t he ce ntur y a nd bega n hi s p io nee rin g s tud y of th e is la n d's o rc hi d reso ur ces
Publi s he d in 19 14 , hi s m ass ive wo r k desc ri bed l 16 ge n era w ith 1,465 s pec ies, 1,102 of t he m new to sc ie nce.
H e in trod uce d th e wo rl d to Pa pu a New G uin ea's num ero u s a nd a m az i ng
D e ndro bium s , s uc h as D spectabi l e, w ith it s c urli c ue pe ta l s a n d se p a l s p atte rn e d in ye ll ow a nd red (photo on ri g ht ).
Not mu c h m o re was a tte m p ted u n til
A ndree M ill ar a rri ved a t Wa u in 1947.
L a te r , as Dir ector of th e Nat io n a l
B o ta ni ca l G a rd e n s , s h e qui c kl y recog ni sed th a t P a pu a New G uin ea was n at ure's la bora to r y fo r th e c reat io n of o rc hid s a n d bega n to s tud y an d co ll ec t th e m . In 1978, s he publi s h e d a less a mbiti o us ve rs io n of O rc hids of Papua New Guinea, w hi c h thi s 1999 ed iti o n
e nl a r ges a n d imp roves. H e r b ook d escr ib es he r 50-yea r lo ve affa ir, n o t
o nl y w ith o rc hid s but w ith th e la nd a nd th e p eo pl e of P a pu a New G uin ea.
M ill a r d i ed in Bri sba ne in 1997.
iver. w h i le the canoes assemb l e fo r the da y 's work.
Know n to ma n y as the 'flower miss u s ', M ill ar seems to h ave c l imbed eve r y m o un ta in , s logged t h ro ug h every swamp , a nd probed every va ll ey in he r t ire less searc h for orch ids. As s he re lates, she fo ll owed Sch l ec h te r ' s footsteps to find what he found , to descr ibe it, and to enab le t h e Mackays to p hotograph it.
Spath og lott is B I (20 o r more species g row ing 111 sunny sit uations in Papua New Guinea) i s a la ,ge ge n us found in many co u n tri es , from no rt hern I nd ia to southern China. throughout Ma lays ia , down through Papua New Gu inea to Austra l ia and as fa r into the Pacifi c as Samoa and New Ca l edonia.
And ree Mi ll a r wa iting w ithji- i ends at Tamb 11 11am rillage on the Sep ik R
Orchids of Papua New Guinea is not a botanica l work, but rather a pictorial and geographica l record of some of the o rch ids of Papua New Guinea. Millar takes a reader with her as she searches, often with Ombas, her assistant, and usually with an adventure to enjoy. For example, when delayed by a violent storm from leaving the seaside town of Daru, she looked about idly and ' noticed a white orchid and drew Ombas' attention to it. He came down into the boat in great excitement. He had recognised it as a lovely cream-coloured D e ndrobium nidii (photo below ri g ht).
He was so excited that he jumped into the water to search for more. The Fisheries man who was with us to drive the little boat called out , Ombas , it 's hun g ry tim e for the cro co diles He spoke in pidgin, and the word pukpuk (crocodi le) activated Ornbas He started straight for the boat , and made very good time.'
• Private Balcony
• Undercover Parkin g
• In the Heart of th e City at gro und leve l &
L eft: Bulbophyllum macranthumfo und up to J ,200111 is distributed th roug h o ut Papua New Guinea and west as far as Malaysia and Sumatra
B e low: Robiqu e tia c.f. s quamulo sa, a low land species found up to 500m. widely distributed thro ug h out Papu a New Guinea, appearing t o g row o n anything it ca n tak e root on.
In like manner, s he de sc ribe finding 203 of Papua New Guinea 's most prominent s pecie s for which Roy and Margaret Mackay provided photograph s. Brief di sc u ss ions of ha bitat , plant growth habit , and flower colour and s hape give the reader all the info1mation neces sary to identify and und e rstand the orchid.
In se parate appendices, the Mackays talk about photographin g orchids in the wild, the Papua New Guinea climate is charted, the use of orchids in village life is reported, and the fine points of grow in g Papua New Guinean orchids in private gardens are se t forth.
The orchid world will certainly hear more about Papua New Guinea 's orchids. In 1994 , Pete r O ' Byrne pub li s hed Th e L ow land Orchids of Papua New Guin ea, a serious, scho larly work in the classic taxonomic format. In it , he describes about 1,000 of pap ua New G uinea's 3,500 species, a number s ure to grow. As a more acce ss ible text , the work of Millar and the Mackays is the book of choice for Papua New Guinea orchid growers, for hobby growers who might contemplate
going there, or for any am1chail·
enth u siast eager to relish the excitement and fun of orchid stories, well told.
Orchids of Papua New Guinea by Andree Mi ll ar; Photographs by Roy and Margaret Mackay; published by Timber Press , 1999 , and Crawford Hou se Publishing Pty Ltd Australia , 1999.
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The heart of Madang Province is, of course, the city of Madang. Like a cardiac organ, Madang is a powerhouse, throbbing life into the arter ies which course through the rest of the province. Madang is a modern c it y, full of c:!lit~~~ co nt emporary comforts: supermark ets, shopping malls. It is co nstantly on the move. It is pretty, with parks, ponds and waterways, and roads lin ed w ith huge shade trees planted during the German occupancy. Madang is a.live.
On a quieter note, the no1th coast of Madang
Province, facing the Bismarck Sea, consists of reef-fringed lowlands backed by some of the most rugged mountains in New Guinea, and off-shore volcanic islands. Smaller villages dot the North Coast Road. Like Madang, these villages are a lso al ive. They ' re a little less busy.
The peaceful nat ure of Madang coast was interrupted during World War II when the area saw a good deal of fighting. Australian troops fought the Japanese along the coast from Finschhafen to Wewak. The bitter fighting raged in bloody conflict until Australian troops finally defeated the Japanese at Wewak. Japanese and US air raids reduced Madang to a pile of rubble, but it has been rebuilt sp lend idl y. Just outside A lexishafen, a Japanese airstrip lies overgrown by jungle. The rotting wreckage of a twin-engined bomber s its on the ai rstrip as it did then , ready for take-off.
Story and photographs by Danielle Johnson
One of my favourite places is Ha nsa Bay, nearly 200 kilometres north of Madan g, and which incidentally saw its own share of action during World War II. The Japanese use d Han sa Bay as an anchorage for s mall transports during the war, and the wreckages of 35 Japanese freighter s and US aircraft now litte r the sha llo w harbour - the result of a US raid in November 1942.
Driving there is half the fun of visiting Hansa Bay. We begin at the Coastwatchers' Memorial, a 30-metre high beacon , which is visible up to 25 kilometres out to sea. The lighthouse stands in dedication to the memory of the coastwatchers who s tay ed behind the lin es a nd upplied the Allies with valuable information about Japanese shipping movements. A guiding light to lead us forward is a more hopeful memorial among the twisted wreckage strewn about the landscape, lest we forget.
The coast road from the memorial is one of the most plea sant , fringed by palm tress and poincettia s, with grand views across Astrolabe Bay towards the Rai Coast. As we head north , there' s another look-out over the water at the Nabanob Mission out-station. FamiJies ply the water in their canoes, fi s hing for their dinner, or perhap s a bit extra to sell at the market. The coastal and island people depend on seafood for their s ubsi s tence.
Sixteen kilometres north of Madang is the Jais Aben Resort , just north of the Nagada Harbour. I like to time my drive , so I arrive here for lunch. The fresh seafood is tastefully prepared , and there could be an opportunity afterwards to go for a sa il or sw im. The resort s peciali ses in diving , but also provide s for a range of watersports.
After the mid-day break , it 's back to the drive along the fertile coast, where coconuts, coffee and cocoa have been grown since the Gennan day s. Near the Catholic Mission at Alexishafen stands a teak forest. These be a utiful and majestic trees will never be harvestedthey are riddled with shrapne l from the war and are now unusable as timber. They are sentenced to life. Just beyond , an abandoned Japanese airstrip lies hidden in the bush , its plane wrecks still standing on the runway.
When we have passed the Maiolo Hotel , about 45 kilometre s north of Madang , the cone of Karka.r Island rise s directly opposite . Thi s volcanic island is one of the most fertile places in the country, and supports some of the most productive copra plantations in the world The volcano i s 1831 metres high , and more than 25,000 people live on the island.
And now , we are half-way to Bogia , the main town in Han a Bay, which itself is at the halfway mark between Madang and Wewak. We continue to drive past endless plantations , interspersed with the many hue s of gree n forest. Many villages dot the coast, for mo s t people live in villages at s ub sis tence level. The villages roll past - Sarang, Pala s, Bun a bun, Uligan, Kelaua . Children s tand by the s ide of the road cheerfully waving as we drive p ast.
Wh e n we arri ve a t B og ia, th e re's a bl ac k sand beac h if we want a sw im , a nd 10 kil o metres beyo nd is Kabak, w here th er e is ano th e r ni ce beac h a t an o ld pl a nta ti o n Th e reef a t K a bak h as pl e n ty of fi s h an d we was te no tim e puttin g o n mas k a nd s no rke l to j o in th e m.
Direc tl y offs ho re fr om Bog ia is M an a m Is land (p ho to be low). Th e soc ie ty of th e M a na m is land e rs is d o min a ted by a he re dita ry c hi ef, th e Kukurai . Th e re's a d a il y la un c h. T he wa lk o n th e trac k a round the is la nd is e nj oya bl e, but th e ac ti ve vo lcan o is dan ge rou s M a na m rumbl e , and the local s occas io n all y have to be evac ua ted wh e n e rupti o ns occ ur F ro m afar it loo ks li ke M t F uji , with s hee r tri a n g ul ar ha pe and clo ud y ca p A co nstant g us h of s mo ke wafts into th e air. Of th e mo re than 100 vo lca noes in Pa pu a New Guin ea, 38 a re be li eved st ill ca pa bl e of e ruptin g, and m os t of th ese a re loca ted in th e Bi s marck Vo lcani c Ar c, w hi c h ran ges fr o m Wewak to R a ba ul.
So me of th e war w reckage in th e h ar bo ur has p a rad ox i ca ll y beco m e ga rd e n s of li fe and ho me to d oze n s of s pec ies of fi s h a nd th e asso rte d m arin e li fe assoc ia te d w ith reefs. Th e S hi s hi M aru s it s upri g ht in 2 5m a nd h as tw o a nti -airc ra f t g un s s till pointin g s k y w a rd s. Th e upp e r d ec k is o nl y s i x me tr es be low th e s urface. Br ass s he ll cas tin gs litt e r th e deck a nd fo rw ar d h o ld s. Tw o fir e e n g in e s it in th e hold s, ju s t befo re th e brid ge, w he re th ey we re wa itin g to be unl oa d ed . Now soft cora ls a nd go rgo ni a gro w a lo n gs id e bri g ht c oloure d s po nges, a nd th e hull of th e s hi p h as bee n co n ve rte d o ve r tim e int o a n artifi c ia l reef.
So me of th ese wrec k s can be v i ite d o n s nork e l, w hil e o th e rs a re dee per a nd re quire sc ub a equipm e nt. Furth e r o ut , th e na tural cora l reefs s till grow in th e Bi s m arck Sea .
N ot lo ng ag o th e re w as onl y a s m aJI bas ic hote l at Bo g ia , a nd a div er s' hut o n Han s a B ay. N ow th e re are bea utifull y lo cated res ort hotel s, g ues th o uses and mi ss ion ary hos te ls To uri sts from Madan g can hi.re a minibu s, take a PMV, o r e ve n bo ok exc urs io n s b y la nd and sea to coas ta l v illa ges and mi ss io nary s ta ti o ns An a mphibi o us tour of th e c o as t, takin g in bre athtakin g coral reefs, is no less in v itin g. H a nsa B ay continu es to thri ve an d grow in a n id y llic wa y
Da nie ll e J ohn son is a resea rch sc ientis t a nd ph o to -jo urna li s t
Iha ve a lway s lov ed travels and exp lore rs - Levi-Strauss , Stevenson, Cook, Nicolai MikJouho Maclay - their sto rie s filled my imagination with intrepid warriors a nd mag ic flower-filled proc ess ion s. They o pen ed European windows to the wind of th e Pacific but brou g ht in th e ir wake th e new westerners' culture. They halfopened a door betwee n two worlds creating a destructive drau ght.
Carried like a leaf in a s tonn by this violent wind, Philippe and I la nd ed in Papua New Guinea after a sa fe trip on Air Niugini. Immediately, we felt the magical power of a land that evoques imagination and plun ges you into fantastic dre a ms
Have you ever dreamed of one day ge tting married in an exo tic country, decorated with flowers , s inging powerful my stical so ng s and dancing on the sand?
Like in a dream , I will reveal how we found ourselves in a red truck full of Hula 'wantoks' on the Magi Highway, the ro a d east from Port Moresby . The s un was going down a nd everything was quiet. We were on our way to a huge wedding with Grace , our ' moth er' from Papu a New Guinea , who invited us to a Bride Price ceremony in Kamali village , a two-hour drive from Port Moresby. Her brother was getting married to a woman from the same village . There are four clans in Kamali and both bride and groom were from the Nanao clan
The family name of Grace is a French name and her ancestry involve s a romantic sa ilor who came in the old time s. We are more or less ' di stant wantoks', perhaps from the same family because , among my ancestors, I too have a sailor who travelled in the Pacific.
Story and ph otographs by Marc Do zier
Like a cuscus, my w id e eyes were scouting around when I discovered a tattoo on Grac e's ann. The beautiful de s ig ns s utTOunded her wrist like a watch. When o ld mamas make th ese tattoos on yo u , it m eans you are ready to ge t marri ed. It's an old tradition whi ch wi ll be lost, sa id Grace caressing her tattoo , fashioned like a fishbone and a tribal s hield de s ign.
The Bride Price was sc heduled for Saturday in Kamali , and we aIT ived the previous day in Grace 's own village, Kalo. After sleeping in a bi g hou se on stilts, we s pent the next morning preparin g deliciou s foods. Pariva is a s peci a l food for feast s. Made of sago and very ripe banana s pack ed in leaves , it keeps the desi g n of the vein of the leaves. Philipp e ca ll ed thi s ' magic leaf cake ' Everybody helped cook and pack taros , kaukau and a ll kinds of food into the car for the drive on a white sand track from Kalo to Kamal i.
When we arrived, the place was crowded - cars, food, pigs , men, women , children converging on the groom's hou se. An enormous fence made of banana bunches , pa.rt of the Bride Price , s uITounded the huge wooden house
A committee of beautiful g irls gave us an overpowering welcome In the shadows under the house , a strange but innocuous business wa s going on. A man was collecting money and recording each amount in a book. Waslie from the tax office ?
It took us a few seconds to understand that everybody was contributing to the Bride Price. The man was recording every contribution in the Bride Price book. Grace gave 500 Kina. Like a perpetual traditional credit, the Bride Price allow s for the circulation of money and goods. Thi s money will be given back in the future , when Grace 's so n , or nephe w or grandson, for example, gets marTied
When everything was ready, a huge procession took plac e. Relatives gathered money , g uria (bete l nuts) and pre se nts. At the head of this surrealistic co11ege, a man proudly carried a sign pointing out the Bride Price amount - 12 ,200 Kina , 4 Pa e (pigs) 2 Cows, 8 bale s of s ugar, 102 big rice bag s, 100 big flour bags arid 2 cartons of biscuits
We started to walk in the direction of the futme wife 's house and instantly a powerful singing invaded the ar·ea. Small children, proud me n , beautiful dancing women and old graceful undulating women were creating a deep and voluminous instarit hann ony. The force and the beauty of the sound went through a ll parts of our bodies. I had goose bumps even in the sun.
I was doing m y bes t to s in g in tun e with the group when a smiling old woman with red teeth vigorously s lapp ed me on the c heeks. Given a s tart , I look ed with wide eyes at everybody la ug hin g to see m y face full of s hiny white talcum powd e r. Everyone was being decorated with powder. Philippe and I danced with th e beautiful g irl s.
After a touchin g ceremonial s peech the group leade r gave all the pre se nts and the Bride Price mon ey to the brid e's father. The bride line (fam il y and relatives) thank ed him and we left for th e g room' s hou se.
Another bur st of s in g in g e rupte d. It was the pa yback from the brid e. The re lative s of the girl were co ming back offering us so ngs, d a nc es a nd bringing back so me presents. Curia han g in g on a sti ck were offered and put in the hou se. A speech, I 000 Kina and more food were g iven back.
When the ceremony was over, Linette invited me for a wash. Grace gave her nod of approval arid I followed her s hyly We went to he r uncl e's hou e. After warm sa lutations , we took some water out of hi s well. I took off my clothes and wore a co lourful borrowed laplap. After washing, Philippe and I went back to eat at the ceremony place .
Shield
Grac e's tattoo
Chickens, sweet potatoes, taro, magic leaf cakes - we ate like never before. During the meal, Grace gave us details and information about the ceremony. Called a Vegoi in Kamali Tok Pies, this exchange ceremony is ce lebrated between a few months and a year after another ceremony called Kuku Veni (an engagement) , where less money is given by the groom's family (between 200 and 400 Kina) along with one or two pigs. In the past , if a boy wanted to m~UTY a girl, his relatives would place a kavi ( a ceremonial spear with feathers and other decorations) early in the morning when everyone is still asleep. The fo ll owing day the village people seeing the kavi would ask the owner of the house to check for his daughter to see whom she was manied to. When a boy and girl decide to marry, the boy's sister cruTies a ceremonial bilum with betel nuts. The boy's sister walks first, followed by the newly manied girl and her husband, cmying around the kavi to stop the girl's parents from taking the girl back . This procession continues for a couple of days until all the houses of the husband ' s relatives have been visited.
On the way home we sang traditional songs to the stars.
I wish that I could get man·ied in such an atmosphere, where everybody is singing, laughing and eating in a big family and community.
Marc Do z ier is a French artist-photographer who has worked with the National Museum and Art Gallery.
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Phone: 472 4133, 472 4674
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CHEMCAREPHARMACYRABAUL
Phone: 982 1221
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Phone: 320 2376
CHEMCAREPHARMACYTAURAMA Phone: 325 5615
CHEMCAREPHARMACYBOROKO Phone: 325 5533
CHEMCARE PHARMACY SPRING GARDEN RD Phone : 323 3992
Port Moresby
PO Box 1322, Boroko Phone: 323 3893, 323 3992 Fax: 323 3949 ADVANCE PHOTO SYSTEM NOW IN PORT MORESBY
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Prints Available
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Joram Inammoi - winner of the Photograph Competition
The flower of Nokondi (Rhododendron joelerii) in Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park
Blessed with a lovely French name it shares with an explorer and one of the Pacific ' s most beautiful plants , Bougainville is a jewel of the South Seas. And while a decade of disturbance has wilted the memories of some, the island is being reborn, and the business centre of Buka is booming.
The North Solomons Province has been known for its picture-perfect beaches and bays since French exp lorers spread the stories of its beauty almo st 200 years ago. The influence of the French is still found in the Polynesian languages spoken on the Takuu and Nukumanu islands. (In fact 23 languages are spoken throughout the province.)
Almo s t a decade of civi l war left only the language of vio lence until recently on the island of Bougainville. Now the fighting is finished and the lovely island is flourishing.
The Bird of Paradise airline can take you from Port Moresby to Buka three times a week aboard the swift and comfortable F28 jet services. Flights are scheduled for Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, with the aircraft returning the same days.
The descent over the crystal waters gives a taste of what's to come , and the friendly welcome at the airport is proof of warm hospitality Buka 's airport is only a few minutes drive from the town and taxis or PMVs are now plentiful.
Phil Smith and Mai Lancaster of Spun Yarns
A number of guest houses and a small island resort provide accommodation and, along with the market, a good range of shops will keep shoppers happy. Cafe and coffee shops make deliciously good use of local produce near the brand new hospital.
Whether snorkeling or SCUBA diving, the waters off the coast are a treasure trove. Visibility is almost unlimited, with wartime wrecks including a Japanese Zero aircraft in only a few metres depth.
The crafts and customs of Buka and North Bougainville are fascinating for anyone interested in culture. Featured on the provincial flag is a tall hat, known as an Upei. The Upei was a woven headdress worn by young men at their initiation and marriage ceremonies.
orth Solomons' wood carving is also well known, with Tinputz carving geometric designs and the folk of north Bougainville producing rather abstract animal and human forms. To the south the village artisans at Rorivana tum out realistic human carvings.
While roads, including the main road down the east coast, are still being rebuilt, coastal shipping is thriving between Buka and Kieta , near Arawa in the south.
Formerly the administrative capital and site of the international airport, Arawa is also being rebuilt, though at a slower pace than Buka. At the Saturday markets the Siwai and Telei folk of the mountainous southwest present their famous Buin baskets. These are (justifiably) the South Pacific's best known basket weavers, creating perfectly round hand baskets with delightful colours and intricate lids.
For the more adventurous , or those with a sense of history, Bougainville holds many wartime secrets in its jungle-covered hills. This is where the United States Marine Corps began their advances against the Japanese after the horrible battle for Guadalcanal in the nearby Solomon Islands. Admiral Yamamoto's aircraft was shot down here, the rarely visited wreck hulking in the rain forest gloom.
These days the only troops a traveller might encounter are the friendly faces of various South Pacific nations in the Peace Monitoring Group, as Bougainville works out its future.
For somewhere a little different , not yet swamped by package tourists , and not too far off the beaten track, let Air Nuigini take you to Buka and Bougainville. After all, nowhere is off track for the Bird of Paradise airline.
from Ford m ren
Fi rd Ranger. The ugh Go anywhere, do anything ute.
Ther e's mu c h , much more to Sin gapore than shin y sho ppin g arc ad es or th eme park attraction , engro ss in g as th ese m ay be at fir st ac quaintan ce .
C hin ato wn i s th e kern el fr om w hich grew m odem Sin ga pore It em bo di es - toge th er w i t h L ittl e Indi a and Ara b Stree t M al ay di stri ct - th e esse nce, arguabl y, of Sin ga pore's 01; g in s. F as t dw indlin g und er t he t w in on sl aughts of hi gh- ri se deve l o pm ent and ge nt rifi ca ti o n, it non eth eless retain s mu ch th at i s tradition al and bes t sa voured on fo ot.
A t th e M aj es ti c Hotel o n Bukit Pas oh Road , a bl essedl y qui et sid e stree t o n th e frin ge of C hinatown , room servi ce i s one parc hm ent face d eld erl y Chin ese m an in sin g l et and sho1t s, stretched o ut and doz in g fitfull y on a co t up stair s.
Ju st a fe w short minutes from Outram Park station on Sin gapo re's super -s li ck sub way sys tem , th e MRT, Bukit Pa soh , th e Stree t of C l ans, has a story to tell. Thi s humble sid e stree t o nce housed so me thi1t y of Sin ga po re's Chin e e cultural and cl an assoc i ati o ns in th e orn ate te rr ace d shophou ses of three or mo re sto reys whi ch typifi ed pre- w ar Sin ga pore.
From th e nin etee nth ce ntury onw ard s, immi grants fr om parti c ul ar di stri cts in Chin a clubbed to ge th er to fonn th ese mutu al ass i stance soci eti es.
N ow, t err aces of c rumblin g sho phou ses hav e bee n tr ansfo rm ed into des i gner offi ces for shippin g and adv erti sin g age nc i es. Th e gro und fl oor of th e G an C l an's impo sin g buildin g ho uses a karaoke bar and severa l oth er clan hou ses are board ed up Yet oth er s lin ger o n, her e an d in nearb y K eo ng Saik R oa d , w here after du sk yo u m ay c hance up on a Chin ese opera rehear sa l o r a sol emn m eetin g of th e cl an committee In thj s stree t , promin ent hou se numbers and pairs of heavil y m ade-up yo un g w omen po int to l ess sa lubriou s ac tivity after dark
S in g ap o re sky lin e fr o m
Sen tosa ca bl eway
Ri g ht: In d ian te mpl e f aca d e
B el ow : Wors hipp e rs a t C hin ese temp le
Behind Bukit Pasoh is Duxton Plain Park, a pleasant green ribbon where Tai Chi exercises take place in early morning or as the day draws in. And a few metres further on are the shopping plazas where Singaporeans themselves shop - Pearl's Centre, People ' s Park , Chinatown Point - great places to pick up electronic goods or clothes.
Close by on Keppel Road is the terminus for the railroad line no1th across the causeway to Malaysia and on to Thailand - and a relatively little-known gem of 1930s A.It Deco Architecture. This imperious cement-grey edifice bristles with heroic neoclassical figures , the alabaster imitating marble. Inside, cathedral-like murals in glowing ceramic reds, oranges and blues glorify a colonial epoch of industrious rubber tappers , palm plantations , tin dredges and rice paddies.
The station cafeteria represents a totally different world to that of the manufactured theme-park tourist attractions promoted so enthusiastically in glossy brochures
Gangling Indian youths and skullcapped and bearded Malays dish up murtabak pastry with vegetable curry, or roti bread with a glass of turgid milky coffee, to off-duty customs inspectors, policemen and passengers. A vivacious Malay woman teams a token headscruf with tight slacks and thongs.
Amidst the Duxton Plain housing estate, wasl1ing hangs like flags from hundreds of window poles extending from the high-rise apartment blocks. A Sikh temple, no bigger than a cottage lies almost buried in exuberant fobage.
At.every turn the stroller is confronted by the forces of 'mban renewal 'bamboo scaffolding, copper-skinned Thai labourers, rubble-laden dump trucks - and the Chinese architect , clipboard in hand, immaculate in button-down de~igner shirt and tie.
The Tanjong Pagar conservation area beyond Neil and South Bridge Roads reveals the futw-e of old Singapore: shophouses slickly restored to provide homes for craft dealers, imp01ters and karaoke bars where the tab for a couple of rounds could quickly exceed the cost of a room back at the Majestic. The Jinricksha Station is a fine restoration of a Victorian public building, now a home for craft and giftware boutiques.
On A.Im Siang Hill the gaunt old man fashioning paper goods for the afterlife is no longer willing to be photographed , but a woodcarver down the hill is more amicable. A middle-aged woman clad in conical wide-brimmed coolie hat , slowly pedals a rickshaw laden with waste cardboard , oblivious to the watcher. Historic places of worship of the Indian Hindu and the Muslim communities stand peaceably beside venerable Chinese temples in the heart of Chinatown .
Th e Te mpl e o f Hea ve nl y Bli ss s till s t a nd s o n Te lok Aye r S tree t afte r 150 yea rs alth o ug h th e wa te rfr o nt it o nce g race d has lo ng s in ce rece d e d . Th e s mok e - stained d oo r ways bea r e ffi g ies of de iti es in fa d ed g ilt. On e ho llow- c hes te d e ld e r in s in g le t a nd s hort s is e ng ro sse d in m a kin g up j oss stick pac ke t s; a no th e r pe rc hes pe ns ive ly o n th e d oo rs te p bes id e a feroc iou s s ton e li o n Traditi o n a l rob e ri c hl y e mb ro id e re d in propiti o u s red a nd go ld h a n g fr o m th e wa ll s. A s to n efla gge d c ourt y ard is d o tt e d w ith co ni ca l s pi ra ls of burnin g in c e n se; ce re m o ni a l kiln s s mould e r in cessa ntl y.
A lm os t nex t do o r s ta nd s th e Nago re Dhurga Shrin e , a humbl e whit e wa s he d mo squ e built by Ta mil Mu s lim s earl y las t ce ntur y. Ju st d ow n on S o uth Brid ge Roa d th e Sri M a ri a mm a m Hindu te mpl e , built o n la nd g ra nte d by Sta m fo rd Raffl es , found e r of th e co lo ny, is equ a ll y ve ne rabl e a nd mu c h m o re dram a ti c, it s gatew a y ado rn e d by a m y ri a d of three -dim e n s io na l go d s, de m o ns and c har io ts B a re-c hes ted devotees re clin e on c ool ston e ste ps , cl a d only in a s aro ng a round th e wa ist.
If yo u h ave a S und ay m o rnin g free , m a ke yo ur way to o ne of th e bird s on g c onte t s , a wee kl y ritu a l fa vo ure d by C hin ese ge ntl e m e n . B y pl easant c oin c id e nce th e Sturd ee La ne ve nu e is o ne of th e bes tprese rve d row s of tradition a l sh o p hou ses - c urli c ues a nd w rea th s a bo und a ga in s t a bac kdrop of a voca d o g ree n , with pan e ls of o rn a te g laze d tilin g Ro ws of ba mboo cages d an g le fr o m th e ir rac ks, eac h
s pec ie s arra ye d in se qu e nce - thru s hes , m e r boks, s ha rm as Th e bird s' own e rs squ a t or s it in row s , som e c ha ttin g ha ppil y aga in st thi s m e lo diou s bac kdrop
Thi s g limp se of a n a uth e nti c tradition ma kes a c ha rmin g fin a le to a stopov e r in Surpri s in g S in ga po re.
Further Information
A ir Niu g ini fli es to Sin ga po re t w ice a wee k.
Sin gapor e's climate is e qu a tori a l and te mperature s re m a in reas on a bl y c on stant be t wee n 2 4 a nd 32° Ce ls iu s a ll yea r.
Trav e ll e rs of m os t nationaliti es m ay e nte r Sin ga po re vi sa -free if holdin g a c urre nt pass po rt P e na lti es fo r po ssess ion of dru gs ar e ex trem e ly seve re. Th e Sin g ap o re Doll a r is fr ee ly c on ve rtibl e. M a n y
Sin gapore sto pov e r pac kages a re av a il a bl e from tra ve l age nt s
G e ttin g aro und w ithin Sin ga po re is easy th ank s to th e MRT, a n exce ll e nt und e rg round ra il way; a compre he ns iv e bu s ne twork a nd an a bund a nce o f m e te re d tax is. Bud ge t-pric e d acco mm o d a ti o n is in s ho rt s uppl y but to uri st , bu s in ess a nd lu x ur y st a nd a rd room s a bo und We b s ite at hhtp: // www.trav e l. co m .sg/so g/ ind e x html
Above: Ch e ss to 11m am e nr
Left: Ba s k e t & Cane d ea le r Arab Sr
B e low: Bi rd son g co n te s t
Exciting, prestigious , and magnificiant. The Tower', glamourously rises through the heart of the central business district of Port Moresby
Its glasses mirror the happenings of Port Moresby streets and the historically famous Fairfax Habour, as well as the skyline. It's a metaphor for the wide ranging membership of its owner, the National Provident Fund of Papua New Guinea
This 18 storey complex , containing public areas, retail areas, car parking, professional suites at ground and first floor levels, will also have well appointed luxury office accommodation.
All areas are fully air-conditioned with a standby power generator and an emergency water supply.
'The Tower', bringing a new level of building design and elegance to Papua New Guinea. And more importantly, extending better rewards to its contributors.
The NPF provides tangible social benefits for its members and their families including :
• Education Savings Plan
• Housing Advance Scheme
• Retirement Savings
• Special Death Benefits
For more information on 'The Tower ', please call our Marketing Agent Century 21 Siule Real Estate on 3212121 or fax on 3212309 , and for details on the Fund , our addresses are :
HEAD OFFICE • PORT MORESBY PO Box 5791
BOROKO National Capital District Ph : 325 9522 Fax : 3255503
LAE AREA OFFICE PO Box 2451 LAE Morobe Province Ph : 4724633 Fax : 4725791
MT HAGEN AREA OFFICE PO Box 1539
MT HAGEN
Western Highlands Province Ph : 542 2145 Fax : 542 3134
RABAUL AREA OFFICE PO Box 2079
RABAUL
East New Britain Province Ph : 9828730 Fax : 9828731
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Andrew M acGregor with M a rion Schaap
NA
Symphony No S (Finale)
London Symphony Orche st ra DE CCA
To A Nordic Princess
Les lie Ho wa rd: piano
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Piano Trio No 2 Movement 3 Chung Trio
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Elizabeth Wallfi sc h: baroqu e violin
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The Merry Widow Act 1, Scene 1
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Keep On Movin' Five RCA
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She Lies
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I Got A Girl
Lou Bega BMG
Sister S2S MUSHROOM
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Everything Is Green Sneak MUSHROOM
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EASY LISTENING Channel: 7
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Painted From Memor y
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Thank God I Found You
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Whenever E mm a Pask MORRISO RECORDS
Incantation No 4For Stanley Myers Slava Grigoryan SONY CLASS ICAL
What The World Needs Now Christine Sullivan LARRIKIN
For All We Know
Johnny Nichol WALKABOUT
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Prisoner All Blue WEA
If You Ever Leave Me
Barb era Str e isa nd w ith Vince Gill COLUMB IA
I Believe In Love P a ul a Cole Band WARNER
COUNTRY
Channel: 10
Guilty
Warren Brothers BMG
When I Say I Do C lin k Black w ith Lisa H a rtm a n Black RCA
When Love Fades
Toby Ki e th DREAMWORKS
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Houston { We Have A Problem ) Bellamy Brothers STA RT
There You Are Martina McBride RCA
Put Your Hand In Mine Tracy Byrd RCA
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You C an ' t Hurry Love Di x ie Chicks EP IC
I Won't Leave You Lonely
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To Dadd y Dolly Parton COLUMB I A
Highwa y man
The Hi g h way m e n COLUMB IA
Ti Kwan Leep/ Boot To The Head
The Frantics
RHINO
Excerpt from The Comedy Store's 20th Birthday
Jim Carrey
UPROAR
A Tragic Loss
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Alternative Child National Lampoon EPIC
Stand Up - Excerpt 12
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Bless Me Doctor
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Stupid Things - Excerpt 5
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Out Of Body Experience
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Gus's Wonder Song Gu s The Snail from Mr Squiggle
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Paraphrase On The Nutcracker Narrator: Julie Andrews UNIFEM
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1. Always 12 in a dozen, no matter what weight of chocolate Q2. 6k m. Wonn starts from ack of book, so it eats through one cover and 2,000 pages to reach page number 1,000 .
3 Uncle added one of his own pigs, making 18 in all. He then gave half (9) to Mary, one-third 6) to Kua, and one-ninth (2) to Jon. He kept the pig left over to replace the one he had added.
FEATURE FILMS
I nte rnatio nal flight s : from Port Moresby to Po r t Mo r es by MARCH
Sixth Sense
,--· - ' ..
l
- I ::-, ,.1i
I( r . \ lV I
G e nr e : T h rill er Rated : PG- 13
From: E- Source
Jn thi s chillin g psyc ho l og i ca l thrill er, ei ght- yea r-o ld Co le Sea r i s haunted by a dark sec ret: he i s v i sited by ghos t s Co nfu se d by hi s para no rm al powe r s, Co le i s too yo un g to und er stand hi s purp ose and too terrifi ed to tell anyo ne abo ut hi s to rm ent , exce pt c hil d psyc ho l og i st D r M al co lm C rowe Dr C rowe tri es to un cove r th e o min o us truth abo ut Co l e ' s supern atural abiliti es
Feat u ri ng: Bru ce W illi s, Ton i Co ll ette, O l ivia Wi lli ams , Ha ley Joe l Os ment
Director: M N ight Shyamalan
The Muse
Ge nr e : Co m ed y
Rated:
PG- 13
Fro m : Wo rld w id e 97 min s
H o ll ywoo d sc ree n w riter Steve n Phi ll ip s bas k s in th e lim eli g ht aft er bein g presented w ith a hum anitari an award . N ex t day he i s release d fr om hi s co ntract A successful sc r ee n w rit er fr i end in trodu ces hi m to hi s in spi ra ti o n - a r ea l - li fe MUSE named Sara h In exc hange fo r her hel p, Steve n ful fi l s all of her requ es ts in c ludin g prov i d in g her w ith food, l odg in g, car , dri ve r and 24ho ur access to Steve n b y ph o ne.
Steven 's w i fe acce pt s th e M U SE into her home and th e t wo beco me fas t fr iend s
Featur i ng: Albert Broo ks, S h aron
Sto ne, Andie M a cDowell , Jeff Bridges
Dir ector: A lbert Brook s
Cha nnel s 1 a nd 2
Teaching
Mrs Tingle
Ge nr e : Co med y/ T hrill er
Rated: PG- 13
Fro m : Terr y Ste in er 93 min s
A ll her li fe Le i gh A nn Watso n has done th e ri ght th ing As one of th e bes t stud ents i n her sc hoo l , she is depe ndin g on a co l lege sc ho l ar ship as her ti cket o ut of tow n Wh en Mrs Tin g le fa l se l y acc uses
Le igh A nn of chea tin g Le igh Ann and her fri end s g9 to Mrs Tin g le's house to pl ea d her case. but thin gs spiral out of co ntro l. and th ey have 48 hours to ge t o ut of an imp oss ibl e situ ati on Feat urin g: Katie Ho lm es , He le n M ir re n, Barr y Wa tson Di rector : Kev i n W illi a mso n
The World Is Not Enough
Ge nr e: Act io n/ Ad ve nture R ated : PG- 13
128 min s
Jam es Bond , 00 7 , races t o defu se an i ntern ati o nal powe r stru gg l e w ith th e wo rld 's o il suppl y hang in g in th e bal ance. E l ektra Kin g i s th e d aug hter of a murd er ed o il tycoo n w ho m Bo nd i s ass i g ned t o pro tec t , and Dr C hri st m as Jo nes , i s a nu c l ea r wea po ns ex pert.
Featu ring: Pierce Brosnan , Sop h ie Marcea u, R obert Carl y le , De n ise Ric ha rd s Director: M ichae l A pted
Avis vehicles are available from 13 convenient locations throughout Papua New Guinea
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Special discount to Air Niugini passengers and we are a partner in 39 Frequent Flyer programmes.
'IS
SJIOW$-XG ROUTE OF BRIGANTINE.
New Guinea was the land of the unexpected long before the modern advertising slogan came along. It had drawn its share of 'missionaries, misfits and mercenaries' in the 19th Century. But along with these were the great scientific collectors of Europe, ever seeking the unknowns of the natural world. Britain, France, Germany and Italy were the chief participants of the 1800s; America was to follow in the 1900s. This is the story as told by Sidney Shurclijf, one of the members of the first notable American expedition to explore the even-then-unknown-world of this fascinating island - the Crane Pacific Expedition.
Corne liu s Crane was a young man of adventure. At age 22, he loved hunting and fishing in Chicago, where he had grown up. By 23 he had set out to fulfil his great dream - to visit the South Seas aboard a sailing vessel and collect specimens for his home town museum, The Field Museum of Natural History. His friend Stanley Field, President of the Museum which bore his name , guided this desire 'Corny', who came from a wealthy family, was encouraged by his father to expand the collections of the Field Museum, and at the same time voyage to relatively unknown parts of the globe with a coterie of friends. He commissioned a boat builder in Italy to build a brigantine yacht for the purpose and named it lllyria after the area of the northern Balkan Peninsula which dominated
eastern Europe for ten centuries before Christ. The l llyria arrived in Boston in November J928 and provisioning started for the Crane South Seas Expedition:
an aeroplane with folding wings , two motorcycles, twelve trunks of medicines, several cases of dynamite , three motion picture cameras, 50,000 feet of motion picture film , two diving outfits, a moving picture projector, 25 rifles and shotguns with ammunition, complete apparatus for the capture , pres ervation and mounting of specimens - and a dog mascot Unfortunately there was not enough space for all these and the aeroplane was the first to go. Then the dog!
But on 15 November she was ready and, despite a last minute fire in the galley leading to the dynamite being offloaded and Cornelius being threatened by the police for it is against the law to carry dynamite within five hundred f eet of a public landing , she set forth on the following day Cornelius was not on board; he had become ill and he had to resolve the police problem. So he joined Ill y ria five days later at Hamilton, Bermuda.
The brig's route (map above ) took the adventurers to the West Indies, through the Panama Canal to Cocos Island and the Galapagos, then westward to the Marquesas , Tahiti and Moorea, and on to Fiji. It visited the New Hebrides (Vanuatu) , the Solomon Islands , New Britain, New Guinea , and various islands of the East Indies (Indonesia) , before returning to Boston on 16 October 1929.
It is the New Guinea (Papua New Guinea) part of the voyage that commands our interest.
HAWAIIAN /f.
The ex ped ition ' s first s ig htin g was of the eastern shores of New Britain, aJTiving Rabaul on 26 April 1929 . The wide tree-lined streets were impressive these are all memorials to the German occupation. The ci ty prospered under rhe Germans perhaps better than it does now. The Ge1111ans had built Rabaul as their main pott for their South Pacific colonies a nd maintained a naval coaling station there.
By coincidence, w hil e the 11/yria was in port the Bremerhal'en, the first German ship to return afte r WW I , entered the harbour. An invit at ion from its Captain Koor resulted in meeting a Mr Solweister, past resident of New Guinea. ' Un ondresd in g country indeed'' he exclaimed. '/ vas dere fur dwelf yahrs meinself I cou ld tell you much about it' Shurcliff's question that the party wanted to collect in th e int erior of New Guinea was met with an immediate sugges tion 1 would go to the interior by airplane if I were you there is a small flying f i e ld at Salamaua ; simply sai l your yacht to the jleld, engage a plane and go anywhere you want'
To shorten a long story ... We left Rabaul on May 2nd and after a rough passage of two days anchored off La e Flying Field - a mere jungle clearing on the seacoast about eighteen mil es from Sa lamaua The jleld was simply a level stretch of land about three thousand feet long , wh ich had been cleared of trees and stumps. A tall, sunb urn ed Englishman met them: 'Welcome to Lae My name is Taylor/' m a par tn e r in one of the air service companies here ' They were soo n on the field , which was less than three years old, and owed its existence to the recently discovered go ldfi e ld s of the Wau-Bulolo Valley. The hazardo u s seve n days' hard marching, with cargo, would be covered in 70 minutes by ai r. But the costs were hi g h - 25 pounds per person one way, a nd a shillin g for each ounce of luggage.
A four-seater De Havilland was soon chaitered for one group, a nd a Moth for another. Two automat ic movie cameras and a Graflex SLR camera were on board when Shurcliff ' s plane took off over the sea for Sa.lainaua. ... th e forest roof looked like soft green moss and the
mountains were blue and steep , reach in g their cloud capped summits high above us. And still higher up was the intense b lu e dome of the sky Whereas Moorea, in Tahiti, gave us dramatic s ilh ouettes and pastel co lou rs, New Guinea 's beauty la y in the intens ity of its co lours and the sharp dejlnition of the scene ry. Shurcliff lo st hi s shut as he leai1t out of the plane to photograph the jun g le sweep in g below. It seemed lik e seconds, but Salamaua appeared below. On the isthmus I saw tiny dots wh ich must have been human beings and then we were on our way back to Lae Flying Field. We passed it and followed the Markham Ri ver up top some hills on it s south bank, en tirely bare of trees, with a large lak e in their midst I photographed a vi ll age , so small it appeared to be a toy , then we winged back to Lae. Our marvellous flight was over!
Corne liu s pointed o ut the practicality of c haiterin g a plai1e to exp lore inland New Gumea They cha rged me for an hour and a half flying time. If we try to see the inter ior I wo uld have to g i ve them the Ill yr ia to pay for it 1 Let's leave before we are tempted too much. So they did.
The Sepik Riv er gave them the highway to the inte rior (map below). Its upper reaches h ad been partially exp lored by a German sc i entific exped ition in 19 13, but a bov e the May Riv er junction th e map was marked Unexplored Territory. Cornelius remembe red Solweister's s uggest ion at R aba ul that a m1ss1onary Father Kirschbaum (pho to below) would be an exce l lent contact. He was lo cated at Alexisnafen , near Madang, and he agreed to g uid e the paity in return for them transporting three tons of s upplie s to Marienberg. On 9 May 19 29 the 1//yria entered the mouth of the Sepik and the major collections of the exped ition com m enced. Father Kirschbaum exp lained that the Gennai1s divided the river into three areas - the 'Sa lt-Water ' or Lower River Culture , the Middle Riv er Culture and the Upper Riv er Cu lture. Each was different. At their first s top , Bien village (photo at top), carved wooden im ages , shield s, drums, and other a1tefacts were exchanged for shillings to pay their head tax
Next day, after an uncomfo1table night with th e drea ded mosquitoes We took double our regular doses of quinin e the adventurers set out for De Buab, a pile village on a salt-water lagoon at the Sepik mouth Here the house s were longer and hi g her than those at Bien. Father Kirs c hbaum explained that they represen ted a pukpuk (crocodile), with the main livin g area the body, and the overhai1g the mouth of the crocodile. Once again the unpopulai· tax coUectors raised th eir head s, and mai1y aitefacts were happily exc hanged for more shillings.
Invited into one house , Shurcliff found men making hea d-dresses for an upcomin g dance (ph oto on ri g ht). The se were sacred bi/as, worn only once for a funeral th en burned. Some had been three years in the making , no doubt needing that time to collect all the feather s necessary to cover the I2-feet high structure
The final chapter in Shurcliff ' s book, White Ghosts in New Guinea, deals with the journey to the Middle (photos bel ow) and Upper Cultures (photos aboFe) of the Sepik Riv er. It take s up almost a quarter of the book and indicates the importanc e he placed on this part of the journey
The men's clubhouse at Ambot, both the crocodile ' s mouth in the front and the flash photo inside (photos below ri g ht) , must have made a lasting impression upon these young men who had journeyed from the urban ai eas of USA to the wilds of New Guinea. But who can mea sure the impre ss ion moving picture s made upon the villagers who congregated in their canoes to witness this white man's magic?
During the expedition Walter Weber, a wildlife a1tist , sketched ai1d painted the vai·ious animals and plant s which caught his eye. His King Bird of Paradise (photo above) became the standard illustration of this species for decades , even though its pose little resembles the bird in life. The Pygmy Goose (photo below) from a swamp at Marien berg , better reflects his abilities. Weber later became a regulai· natural history aitist with National Geographic magazine.
Seeing his reflection in a mirrorfor the.first time
In all the 1//yria covered 32.000 nautical miles, collected nearly 20,000 scientific specimens. and left th e adventurers with a , i,·id haunting memory of the South Seas , for each mile tra,·elled. A series of scientific papers - fo r example on bats. bowerbirds. cepha lopods , fish, mammals, reptiles. termites - provided pioneering information on the biodiversity of New Guinea.
Today Papua New Guinea is recognised as one of the major centres of biodiversity and cu ltural diversity in th e world. The work of these early expeditions lik e Crane ·s co uld have set the scene for the world to regard the whole island of New Guinea as bein of World Heritaoe value - A World International Park!
Jungle Islands , the Illyria in the South Seas. By
Sidney Nichols Shurcliff.
1930.
ew York and London.
90 illustrations; 2 maps; Colour plates and drawings by Walter A Weber. Photographs mostly by the author.
Dr Eric Lindgren is a photo-journalist who worked in Papua New Guinea for 25 years.
For many years the Kundu Drum has been synonymous with the cu lture of a fascinating and developing Papua New Guinea.
Now the Kundu Drum is L11e symbol of the emerging strengl11 of a nationally mmed financial institution, knmm for its quality and professionalism - Bank Soul11 Pacific.
Our competitive advantages include:
• Our continuity of management.
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• And our reputation for quality sen~ce.
At B,mk Soul11 Pacific we are achieving recognition for our range of products and sen~ces , sophisticated Infom1ation Technology platform and our net,vork expansion, which is prq,~ding career pal11 opportunities for our citizen staff.
Nationally Own ed and serving the people of Papua New Guinea
Welcome to the Air Niugini inflight shop.
The items displayed on the these two pages are available on all international flights.* We are happy to accept most major currencies, travellers' cheques and leading credit cards for purchases.
Ladies ' Fragrances
Red Door
Elizabeth Arden
Eau de toilette spray 50ml
Dune
Christian Dior
Ea u de toilette s pray 50ml
Opium
Yves Saint Laurent
Eau de toilette aturaJ Spray 50ml
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Cacharel - Paris
Natural Spray 50ml
Eau de toilette with a hint of floral fie ld s
Men's Fragrances
Gifts & Souvenirs
Paco Rabann e After Shave
Kouro s Eau de toilette 50ml
d?G:F&,
A colourful piece of Australian opal on a fine 22ct go ld chain
Scental Premiere
Co llection
Pre se ntation box of six leading perfumes
Drakkar Noir Guy Laroche
Eau de toilette
SO ml s pra y
Opal Pendant
Parker Ballpoint Pen with Air Niugini logo
Pen & Keyring Set
A souvenir of Papua New Guinea
Pierre Cardin Ea rring Caddy
Six pairs of stylish earrings for any occasion
Gifts, Souvenirs & Books Cigarettes,
Cigars & Port
Goroka Coffee 250g
Air Niugini's Special Blend of 100% Arabica Coffee from Goroka Coffee Roasters Pty Ltd
AirNiuglnl blend ~-
Silver Plated Teaspoons
Set of three teaspoons
A must.for co ll ec tors!
Cigars
Tabacalera 5-pack Cigars
Top quality hand roUed cigars made for Air Niugini.
Dunhill
Filter DeluxeQuality size filter created by blendin g exceptional quality tobacco.
Whisky
Chivas Regal l litre
Matured in oak for 12 years by Chivas Brothers, Scotland
Air Niugini A310 Airbus
Easy to assemble kit with mounting stand
Benson & Hedges
When on ly the best will do Special Elter, Extra Mild & Ultra Mild - 20 & 25
Whisky
Johnny Walker Red l (jtre
The name behind the man behind the bar
Discover Paradise
Specially selected highlights from the award-winning Paradise magazine
Winfield 25s
Popular red , mild blue & green
Cognac
Martell VSOP 700ml
The choice of Louis XIV
Gin
Gilbey's London Dry _ 1.125 litre
Ga!LHY'S Made to the same ,:;'"lrir/t sec ret family recipe for over 130 years
IVodka
Finlandia l litre
The world's finest Vodka
IPort
Penfolds 750mls 10-year old Port
A blended tawny port with the characteristics of ageing for 10 years
Books
Papua New Guinea souvenir books
The national drink • 1 of Finland
Rum
Bundaberg 1.125 litre
The great Australian Overproof Rum
Ifs the Pearl of PNc; and the Pacific 'i,
Wo says that the once most popular, attractive and beautiful town of Rabaul, badly destroyed by the twin volcanic eruptions in September 1994, will not be rebuilt? If you are thinking that way, then, come over and see the town for yourself. You will be surprised to see rebuilding taking place not as quickly as many people would like, but, nevertheless, rebuilding is surely taking place.
Remember the saying: there ' s no place like home? For most of those who were either born or lived most of their lives in Rabaul, that's their home. It's hard for many of them to just walk away and forget the pretty little homes, the once clean Malaguna Road, Mango and Casuarina Avenues, the shops, Queen Elizabeth Park, Namanula Hill where the German Governor then District Commissioners lived, the pretty frangipani garden and, most of all, the most beautiful and sheltered harbour in the South Pacific.
Although a good number of former residents left the town for other centres in the country , an equally large number left to settle in Australia. But one thing I know: their hearts are still in Rabaul. That's why many returned to Rabaul when the eruptions were still going on. Today, the returnees are increasing each month. The market, though dusty from Tavurvur's constant emission of sulphuric dust, is still popular and active. Businesses are booming, despite the rapid growth of business activities at Kokopo, our new capital town.
Surrounding Rabaul are interesting places to visit, particularly for tourists on stiict budgets. If you are looking for a nice, comfortable and affordable place to relax and get away from your active life, I recommend Submarine Base Resort Hotel (SBRH) (photo above). This quiet and romantic resort is situated at the northern-most tip of the island of New Britain.
SBRH is a LO-minute drive from Rabaul, the town that was founded in 19 I0 by the then German Administration. It later came under Australian conti·ol. Finally, in 1975, it became part of the Independent State of Papua New Guinea.
Rabaul is rich in history, having been the Japanese headquai1ers for the South Pacific during World War II ( 1942-45), and Submai·ine Base itself is of great interest historically as well as for its physical beauty.
Tavui Point, which overlooks the Submarine Base, was a large Japanese wartime gun emplacement, and a system of tunnels and shafts in the cliffs leads down to the tunnels and caverns at the water's edge.
Small jetties from these tunnels extended for only 10 metres or so before the sheer drop-off of at least 300m. It was a safe haven for Japanese submarines to surface, dock, unload munitions, supplies and ·personnel, and take in fuel and provisions them elves, being able, in the event of air attack, to quickly descend to a safe depth until it was over.
There are no submarines at Submarine Base now, but within five minutes by boat, there are two excellent World War II relics on wh ich to dive. The first is 'George's Wreck', a Japanese freighter of around 2,000 tons, 70m long and lying beautifully preserved on a slope from a depth of 12 to 54m. This makes it suitab le for both new and experienced divers.
Story and photographs by Sir Paulias Matane
The seco nd is a Mitsubishi reconn a issa nc e flo a t biplan e at a depth of around 32 m. The aircraft is believed to have s unk a t anchor as it is virtua ll y int ac t. It s beautiful cora ls and la rge res id ent fish mak e thi s a popular dive s ite for photographers.
SB RH is right o n the beach - a te n-m et re walk to the water- th e n a ten-metre sw im to the beginning of the dram a tic drop -off. The water is crys ta l c lea r and is tee min g with fi s h of all s ize s, s hapes a nd co lours. It is like being gent ly lowe red into a billionaire's aquarium.
The casua l s nork e ll e r or pa ddl e r can walk to the drop-off where th e wa te r is on ly Im deep and dip th e ir ma sk und e r to ex per ie nce th e magic of a dive. The sc uba diver ca n take th e sa m e walk and div e to whatever depth on th e vertical wal I.
The non-aquatic visitor can ex plore the tunn e ls on th e s hore, or climb up to the c liff top tunnels and g un e mplace ments - abo ut ten minutes walk - admi rin g the bird li fe a nd beautiful fran g ip an i trees along the way, and perhaps imagining w hat it wo uld ha ve been lik e 50 plus years ago , wa itin g for th e dreaded drone of approaching e ne my plan es.
SBRH has ten bungalows dotted village-style a lon g the beac h Everywhere you see kunai grass thatched roofs a nd bamboo blind wa ll s as yo u would in a Papua New Guinean village. Underlying thi s trad iti o nal exter io r, howeve r, is a n a ir-condition ed e ns uite hotel room to relax in after th e day's act iviti es.
SB RH res taura nt a nd bar are ri g ht on the beach a nd feature Papu a New Guinean timbers, ebo ny tabl es and bar, kwila floors a nd a magnificent hu ge rosewood crocodile as th e buffet table Served off that crocod il e are tropic a l delicacies, s uc h as pawpaw, man go , pomelo, avocado, pineapple, prawns, crabs, lob s ter and fresh fish.
The 'Do lphin Bar' is accurately named. Submarine B ase is on th e dolphins feeding route. Sightings occ ur d a il y, ge nera lly between 0600 and 0700 in th e mornings, but often in th e afternoons as well.
Daytrips from this last littl e corne r of paradise are available to view o th er historical s it es , suc h as the famed Allied War Memorial Cemetery at Bitapaka, th e war museum a t Ralum , Kokopo , the ex qui s ite Duk e of Yorks islands gro up and, of co ur se , th e sti ll smoulderin g volcano, one of the two that destroyed ha lf of R aba ul to wn in 1994.
Other attrac tion s ava ilabl e includ e:
Golf - Th e re is one seas ide co ur se, where there a re so me bunkers am id s t the pa lm tress and th e sand to be avoided here on th e beac h. There is another 9-hole course made in an arboretum, a beautiful collection of native and impo11ed tree s.
Dee p Sea Fishing - M a rl in s are caught reg ularly, along with sailfish, ma cke rel , w a hoo and barracuda.
Reef Fishing - You ca n cast off the reef at the hotel for a nythin g from small reef fi s h to rod-breakin g ba rracuda
Vi s it s to local villages and cocoa plantation s.
Cultural perfonnances s uch as s in gs in gs a nd th e famous Baining Fire Danc e rs.
After you hav e visited SBRH- s li ce of paradi se - you will be 'sad' to leave th e kind hosp ita lity of the s taff and the beauty of s uch a wonderful pearl of the Pacific.
loko a 11111 ana bo 11a talai ve 1•et- Goodbye our good friend s
lf yo u requ ire.fi1rth e r info rmati on, please ge t in to u c h with th e SBRH staff 0 11 telephone o r fax (675) 9827200 or PO Box J , R abau l.
Put some Ramu in it ...
LOCAL CUISINE - Kakaruk -
R~o: t: \ ~s n :~
e mbl e m of my
1 co untry of birth , France.
~"' Althou g h it is a symbolic animal for us, we a lso enjoy ea tin g it , especially in wine sa uce or 'co q au vin'. Chicken ha s become a meat that people all over the world e njoy eating in every form - roa sted , grilled, deep fried , marinated , s moked , in coconut so up or c urry. I have se lected five recipe s that are in spired by my Europe a n root s but you will find the ingredients eas ily. Bon appetit!
Chicken Stock
1~ In a large saucepan, <( (.' { \ put the followin g: 1: , 2 litres water
4 large cloves garlic
I kg chicken piece s including giblets
chopped vegetables - 1 carrot, 1 leek
2 s p1ing and l round onions
l small turnip , I small pars nip
I s tick celery
1 g la ss dry white wine, pepper, sa lt bouquet ga rni (thyme and pars ley)
Bring to simmer and cook for 10 minutes , removin g sc um that rises to top. Cover partially and continue immering for at lea s t 2~ hours, removin g sc um occasionally. Le t cool in sa ucepan
Pre ss ingredi e nt s through s ieve to remove all s tock.
Re se rve chicken pieces (fo r recipe about leftover s for in stance).
Cover with foil and cool at room temperature. Cover tightly , and refrigerate overnight.
Cut away a nd di scard hard e ned fat from top of stock. Refrigerate stock for use within a few days. You can also freeze stock.
Chicken Marengo (serves 6)
1kg chicken piec es
1 s mall onion, finely chopped
2 large clove s garlic , cru s hed
I s hallot , finely chopped
1 g la ss dry white wine
4 tomatoe s, chopped
1 g la ss chicken stock
1 s mall carrot, pee led and diced
1 s liver orange pee l
l s mall bouquet garni (pars ley + thyme bundled tog e th e r)
l cup fre s h mu s hroom s, s li ce d
2 tb s p flour
1tsp dri e d ta rra go n leaves
ts p dried rosemary leaves oil , sa lt , pepp e r
Mix dry herb s with flour. Dredge chicken piece s in flour mixture . Fry until broVln on each s ide Transfer chicken to casserole.
In the pan , fry onion, garli c, s h a llot until softened. Add wine. Cook for 2 minut es, sc rapin g the pan ge ntly , if necessary, to remove the browned pa.i1icl es Add tomatoes, stock, ca.irnt and pe pper.
Brin g to simm e r and cook for 2 minute s. Pour over chicken in casserole. Add orange sliver, salt a.i1d bouquet ga rni. Cover tightly and cook for 30 minutes. Meanwhile , in clean frying pan , fry mu s hroom s for 3 minutes . Add to chicken after it is cooked for 30 minute s. Let the chicken cook for another 15 minutes , or until tender. R e mov e chicken and keep wa.im in a servi ng di s h. Remove bouquet garn i and orange pee l, and di scard
Place the casserole over m edium hi gh
hea t a nd brin g to boil. Reduc e heat and simmer for I minute. Pour over c hi cke n Sprinkle with pa.i· ley a.i1d se rv e.
Chicken Gratin Leftovers (serves 4 )
500 g leftover piece s of cooked chicken (fro m s tock)
4 boiled egg s, cut in half cooked vegetable s, s uch as boiled cauliflower, potato or mushroom s
By Celine Peter
2 tbsp butter, 2 tb s p plain flour
\ litre milk , hs p nutmeg
sa lt , pepper , 200g shredded cheese
Shred the c hi cken a nd remove all bon e Pla ce the c hi cken, eggs and vegetables in a grat in dish.
Melt th e butter in a pan and stir in the flour until smooth. Whisk in the milk
Bring to boil a nd cook for 10 minutes on low heat , s tirrin g occasionally. Stir in nutmeg. Spoon sauce over the c hi cken and vegetables. Sprinkle c heese a nd gr ill fo r 20 minute s or until bro wned. Serve immediately.
Grilled Paprika
Chicken (serves 6)
1kg c hi cken
'/ -• / pieces , skin ned / 1 tbsp oil
1 tsp paprika
2 la rge cloves garl ic, fine ly chopped
2 tsp c id e r vinegar, pepper juic e of ~ le mon , l tsp hon ey
Make a m ari nade by combini ng oil, paprika , v in egar, pepper, lemon and honey. Spread over chicke n . Cover and refrigerate for 3 how·s before cooking.
Grill in oven or on barbecue until cooked, turnin g c hi cken regularly. Serve imm edia te ly.
Chicken Basquaise (se1ves 6)
1kg chicken pieces
I re d & I gree n capsicum, s li ced
3 eggp la nt s, sliced
4 rip e tomatoes , chopped
2 c hilli es, c h opped, 1 onion, chopped
2 gar lic cloves , cru heel.
3 tb s p olive oil
In a pan, fry the chicken pieces with 2 tbsp olive oil until brown Remove c hicke n pi eces.
In a big sa uc epan, fry onion , garlic and chillies with l tbsp olive oil until soft. Add ca ps icum. Stir for 3 minutes. Add eggp la.i1ts Cook for 3 minutes. Add tom atoes, stir for a few more minutes before adding the chicken pieces.
Cover and simm er for 30 minutes.
Se1ve with rice.
Welcome!
Getting Around: At Jackson ' s Airpon, which is 11 km from the centre of Po1t Moresby, there are rental car counters, a bank and duty free shops. Major hotels have a cowtesy bus to and from the airpo1t. Taxis have meters. Within the city, PMYs (public motor vehicles) cost 50 toea per jowney. Elsewhere , PMYs , taxis and hi.re cars are available.
Useful Port Moresby Numbers: Air Niugini Information 3273480; Reservations & Confirmation 3273555 (Domestic) and 3273444 (International); Police 000; Ambulance 3256822.
Currency: Papua New Guinea's unit of currency is the Kina which is divided into 100 toea. Exchange your money at Jackson ' s Airport or in banks which are open from 8.45am to 3pm , Monday to Thw·sday and until 4pm on Friday. Credit cards a.re accepted in leading hotels and shops.
Customs and Quarantine: Adults over 18 have a genera.I a.Uowance of new goods to the value of K250 and are a.Uowed duty free:
• 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250grams of tobacco
• One litre of alcohol
• A reasonable amount of pe1fume
Drugs, pornographic literature or video tapes , firearms and weapons a.re prohibited Food items , seeds , spices , Live or dry plants , animals , animal products and biological specimens such as cultures and blood need special import approval.
La.nguages: Although over 800 languages are spoken in Papua New Guinea, English is the language of education and commerce Tok Pisin is widely spoken and Hi1i Motu is common in Papua.
Time: Papua New Guinea is l O hours a.head of GMT, in the san1e time zone as Eastern Australia. There is no daylight saving.
Communication: ISD, STD and facsinule services are available in most areas. Large towns have public telephones. Phone cards can be used in some. Many rural areas have radio phones
Driving: Drivers ' licences issued in other countries are valid for 3 months after arrival. Vehicles travel on the left side of the road; speed linuts a.re 60kph in built-up areas and 80kph out of town.
Electricity: Electricity supply is 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Some hotels have 110 volt outlets for shavers and hair dryers.
Health: Water quality is within WHO standards in most towns. Bottled water is available. In rural areas it is advisable to boil water. As malaria continues to be a health risk in the country, anti-malaria tablets should be ta.ken two weeks before arrival, during your stay and for 4 weeks after depruture. Use insect repellent and weru· long-sleeved shuts, trousers and shoes in the evening. Dentists , doctors and hospitals a.re in aU major centres. Rural areas have health centres and aid posts staffed by trained health workers.
Dress: For most occasions , dress is informal. Thongs and shotts are not a.Uowed in some bars and restaurants. Lightweight clothing is suitable for coastal areas but a sweater or jacket will be needed in the highlands.
Restaurants: Western cuisine is available in hotels , restaurants, guest houses and lodges . Port Moresby has several Asian restaurants. Some hotels especia!Jy in the provinces serve local food such as roast pork, chicken or fish with sweet potato , taro , yam, pumpkin, banana and greens cooked in coconut milk.
Tips: Tips a.re neither expected nor encouraged.
Shopping: Large stores and artifact shops offer a variety of goods for sale. Saturday is a half day for most shops and nearly all a.re closed on Sunday Attisans sell their craft beside the roads or in markets. AIJ markets selJ a wide range of fruits and vegetables.
Cultural Events: Celebrations of traditional culture include: June August September October P o rt Moresby Show
Mt Hagen Show
Hiri Moale Festival Port Moresby ; Goroka Show Maborasa Festival Madang; Morobe Show
Export Rules: Many rutifacts , historical and cultural objects a.re prohibited exports. Others require a permit from tile National Museum. Export permits for wildlife and a.ninial products are issued by the Nature Conservation Divison of the Department of Environment and Conservation.
Tourism Promotion Authority, PO Box 1291, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Phone: 320 0211 Fax: 320 0223 Email: tourismpng@dg.com.pg
