Both Port Moresby Travelodge and The Islander Travelodge are conveniently located to ensure your stay in PNG is relaxed, friendly and comfortable . Enjoy the sights, sounds and experiences of Port Moresby with the ones who know.
Paradise is publi shed bi-monthly by
Morauta & A ss o c ia tes
PO Box 1267
Port More s by 12 1
Papua New Guinea
Te l: ( 675 ) 32 179 86
F a x: (675 ) 3 214 3 75
Pa radi se Ma g a z in e
55 C a ss ow a ry Driv e Bur leigh Wate r s Qld 4220
Australia
Te l/F ax: (61 ) 7 55 200 IOI
Publisher: Sir Me ke re Mora uta
Editor : Ro s lyn Morauta
Production: Diann e Mcinn es
Editorial Board Members:
Eva Ami ( Air Niu g ini )
Ka th e rin e Lep a ni
Contact the Port Moresby office for:
Advertising: L a'a Aukopi
Subscriptions:
Mari e M a num a nua
Annual s ub sc ripti o n rate s for s ix iss ues includin g pos tage are:
In Papu a Ne w Guin ea - K 3 0
Au s trali a - K60
Rest of th e world - US $ 50
Printed by:
Pac-Rim Printin g
Articl es e x press th e opinion o f the author s and not necessa ril y that of Air Niu g ini or Moraut a & A s sociat e . Editori a l contribution s s hould be ac comp a ni ed b y re turn pos ta ge and will be handled with rea s on a bl e ca re Th e publi s h e r, ho w e ve r, ass um es no r es pon s ibilit y fo r th e safe t y of photog ra ph s, a rt w ork o r manu s cript s
3
Activiti es g alore
NARAI'S
Tour s of Sogeri and Kokoda
(BIRD OF) PARADISE LOST, PARADISE REGAINED
Hal Holman - arti s t
A PIG FO R PHILIPPE
Is Philippe's life linked to this friendly animal?
A YUMMY, TASTY EXPERIENCE
Mackerel fi s hing at Lalaura
THE FRANGIPANI
A popular garden plant
SOLAR-POWERED ANIMALS
Coral - the helper
PHOTOGRAPH COMPETITION
Bro th ers in Arms
IN SEARCH OF SHELL MONEY Ba g i
BOOK REVIEW
Th e Sky Tra v ell e rs
DESTINATION - Penang
Eastern and Oriental
THE LAST PAPUA GAZETTE
End of Civil Government in Papua
LOCAL GOU RM ET FOOD
A taste of Franco-Papua New Guinean style
ON BOARD
Inflight 47
Air Niugini Fleet SS
Domestic Route Map 58
International Route Map 59
Air Niugini Offices 64
Entertainment
Duty Free Shopping Films Have Fun! Tourist Information
Cover : Evergreen Frangipani , native of Mexico & Centr
America , grow s well in Papua New Guinea
Photograph by Eric Lindgren
No 131 January - February 1999 Welcome aboard
A ve ry Happ y N e w Ye ar to all o ur pa sse nge rs. Air Niu g ini l oo k s f o r w ard to yo ur co ntinu e d c u s t o m throu g h o ut 1999 , and to pro vidin g yo u o ur first c lass Paradis e se r v i ce
If yo u happ e n t o b e takin g a v acati o n in Papua N ew Guin e a during this ho lida y p e riod , b e ready f o r th e many tre ats in st o re fo r yo u.
Thi s iss u e of Paradi se prov id es a ve ritabl e sm o rg asb o rd of holida y d e stinati o n s and a c ti v iti es : fishin g off th e La/aura co ast e a s t of P o rt
M o res b y, da y trippin g in Mad a n g , dis co v e rin g th e wo ndro us c re atures and plant-life of o ur co ra l reef s, and c ultural adv e ntures in Mi l n e Ba y, K o iari and Simbu.
On yo ur tra ve ls , tak ~ tim e to apprec iate o ur co lo nial hi s to ry as w e ll as o ur traditi o nal c ultures
Th e re are man y fa sc inatin g s to ri es to b e rea d o r h e ard In thi s is su e we revie w th e 1938 -39 Ha ge n-S epik Patrol of Jim Ta y l o r and J o hn Bla c k , and l e arn ab o ut th e e nd of se parat e gove rnm e nt in Papua in 1 94 2.
Enjo y yo ur re adin g, and yo ur fli g ht with Air Niu g ini.
Andrew Ogil
Mana g in g D i rec tor
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Daytripping • 1 n Madang
Story
and
photos by Tim Rock
Busy, clean and colourful. That is the first impression one gets of this tropical reso1t town that s its centrally on Papua New Guinea's north s hore. But there are things truly New Guinean , like trees full of chirping fruitbats, a land scaped drive along the deep , blue ocean and parks with lily ponds that flash signs warning of crocodiles, that make you know this place could only be set in Papua New Guinea It is as popular as it is pretty, being a major visitor de stination in the country for those wanting to relax , dive , swim or golf.
Madang is an excellent vacation spot for travellers. Air Niugini ha s a number of jet flights every day out of Port More sby to the conveniently located airport. The landing strip is near town but flights do not disturb the serenity of the beautifully landscaped little town. Hotel s and re so rt s dot the area, making the drive from the airport to accommodation a quick trip
People watching can be a major pa s time h e re. Highlanders and Lowlanders mix as they ply the streets in their varied garb. The women's bi/um bags are works of art.
Slung across the back with the straps being s upported by the forehead, bi/urns can carry fruit, vegetables, pottery and b a bies.
The town market see ms a lw ays busy and .fu ll of crafts, fruit and other bargains. Roasted bags of peanuts for only 10 toea help stave off the munchies. Fresh coconuts are g reat for drinking and bananas provide a sweet helping of potassium.
Lofty ironwood trees aro und the Market Square are full of flying foxes (photo on left) that make the air co me alive with their calls. At late dusk , they move to the west to feed, filling the sky with a dracula-esque im age. It is amazing to watch this eerie nightly migration.
Co/awful markets in town and a long th e roads ide offer everyt hin g from peanuts to handicrafts. Coconuts and fresh fruit can be found h ere too.
Th e loca l dock near th e Madang Reso 11 s ems to be alw ays busy with people fishing for sc hoo lin g se rgea nt major fi h Their tec hnique is simpl e: float a hook down into th e sc hool and when yo u feel a fish nud ge th e hook , yank a quickly as you can. Thi s res ults in fish bein g hooked in any which way; in th e sid e, th e tail and so metim es eve n th e mouth Fishing i s don e from th e dock and from a sma ll armada of o utri gge r s that it in the chann el. earb y, a park i s a m ajor ga th erin g spot for kids to sw im and families to sit und er th e shad e of a sprea din g tree.
The big news aro und M adang rece ntl y was the filming of th e mo v ie Rob in son Crusoe w ith famed actor Pi erc e Bro snan hea din g th e cast. Thousands of loca l s took part as ex tra s or in so me way did work on th e adventure flick On e venue for a sce ne in the film was a water cave that bubble s sulphur (photo o n ri g ht ). Set dee p into a jun g l e cliffline, thi s l eaves the streambed a milk y white, and cantank erou s turtle cour e th e water with their white shell s Papu a ew Guinea i s still very active geo lo g i ca lly, and thi s sulphuric refu ge can be visited after taking ju ta short hike.
Other popular site s to see in c lud e so me vintage pl ane wrecks near the old W o rld W ar II Jap anese runway, a breathtaking view of th e peninsula from th e Lutheran mi ssio n g ro und s and a visit to a village where pottery i s handmad e and fir ed in village ovens. Thi s pottery i s known throu g hout the r eg ion and p eo pl e travel for many kilom etres to trad e goods and foods for th e prized red c la y vessels.
Most of Madang's ho te l s ar e well si tu ated for g ues t s to enjo y a coo l eve nin g drink alon g th e shorelin e or und er th e stars. A cockatoo or a furry c usc us may ap pear in th e trees.
For divers, a g i ant white Coas tw atc her s • Memorial (pho t o o n righr) , dedicated to th ose w ho gave th eir se rvic e during the W ar m ark the entran ce of th e harbour. Th e Memorial also acts as a navigational beaco n to Sek I sland. A large prot ec ted inner la goo n run s north while the outer barri er r eef is dotted with islands. There are many fine pas dives, reef dives, o uter reef dives and wreck dives in thi s broad and bea utiful area.
Peo pl e see th e und e rsea wonders in tw o ways. They ei th er use land-based dive operations like tho se located at th e Madang Reso n o r J a is Aben, or they t ake a liv e -a b oa rd boat like th e Melan es ian Discoverer or th e Go ld en Daw n. Liv e-aboard s offer th e flexibility of beco min g dive platfo rm s fo r ni g ht dive s a nd a lso a llow ve nture to more di st a nt is la nds lik e Bagabag or the volcanic co nes of K a rk a r.
One of th e bes t dive sites near Madang is a nond esc ript sea mountain rising from very deep wate r to just 4 metres. It is ca ll ed Planet Rock and can be cove red in a s in g le div e. The sea li fe here is a m az in g for a reef so c lose to the e ntran ce to Madang H a rb o ur. It s it s a goo d 7- me tre boat rid e from s ho re but near th e mo uth of a maj o r ri ve r system, so visibility ca n be affected w he n there are rain s a nd run off.
It ma y a lso be thi s prolifi c ab undan ce of nutri e nt s that a ttra c ts so mu c h sea I ife Di ve ve te ran Bob Ha lstead repor ts th at ha mm e rh ea d shark s a nd large pe la g ics a re co mmonl y see n a lo n g w ith a multitud e of the us ua l reef fishes. The s lopin g pinn ac le ha s lot s of active fish life and a hu ge variety of an e m o nes.
A mask totem is a reminder of th e tribal diversity in thi s region.
Above: A trumpetfish hides in th e spokes of a sea fa n on 1!, e B25 Mitchell plane wreck
Below: A uniqu e fo rm off ired pottery is a majo r product of o n e Madang ,,iflage w h ere people come ji-0111 as far as J00 ki lome tr es 10 1rade and buy. '
ITh e mainland e nd of th e reef near th e m oor in g bu oy is an exce llent fi s h
watching s pot with sc hool s of lar ge b a rr ac ud a, jack s, gilded tri gge rfi s h , s n a pp ers a nd pl e nt y of s m a ll e r reef fish. Nearer to Mad a n g, Ma g ic Passage is a popular rich pa ss t ee min g
with bi g, unafr a id fish. Hu ge g reen tub as trea cora l tr ees and big s tand s of go rgo nian s dot the walls and sea flo o r. Th e re are also ree f s hark s, thi c k fu s ili e r a nd s napp er sc hool s and a rubbl e bottom ho s ts nudibranchs a nd cuttlefish.
A unique war artefact is the Mitchell 825 Aircraft (p ho to above), a sunken plane from World War II. It is large ly int ac t and is filled with an array of colouiful cora l and inv ertebrate growth. Sea fans are found on the plane 's tail and the rear guns have been c leaned of coral growth with the s hiny barrels s till intact.
A nudibranch makes its way a!ortf!, an ou te r reef wall
Nearby , the H en ry L e ith is a shipwreck s unk purpo se ly for diving. It is now home to various so ft cora ls and crocodile fish and lacy scorpion fish
The barrier reef is lands are blessed with perfect beaches. The sandy bottom is perfect for muck diving, a term coined in Papua New Guinea It means looking for small and unusual critters. The varied sand anemones w ith clownfish and clown dam se ls and shallow corals are good for snorkelers and easy diving.
Madang is a rea l gem. The beauty of the area above and below the sea is hard to equal. It offers a unique combination of adventure and relaxation.
Tim R ock is a photo-journalist whose main int eres t is diving
Air Niugini flies to Madan g from P o rt Mor esby and Lae daily.
AirNiugini
Air Niugini is pleased to welcome you on board. Our friendly flight attendants will endeavour to make your journey comfortable and safe. We ask that you acquaint yourself with the following features of our service.
TAKEOFF AND LANDING
Ensure that your seat is in the up1ight position during takeoff and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original position in the seat back or in the armrest.
SAFETY FIRST
Your seatbelt must be securely fastened during takeoff and landing or whenever the seatbelt sign is on. When the seatbelt sign is off, you may move about the cabin as necessary. However, while seated, keep your seatbelt fastened securely in case of unexpected turbulence.
SMOKING
Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight.
BEFORE YOU LEAVE
Pl ease check your seat pocket before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value.
ENTERTAINMENT
A movie and a se lection of music including classical, modem , country and local are available on international services. Programmes can be found in the infligh t ente1tainment section of this magazine.
HAND LUGGAGE
Please ensure that your lug gage is placed in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you.
PILLOWS AND BLANKETS
On international flights, pillow s and blankets are available on request from cabin attendants.
CHILDREN AND BABIES
Our flight attendants will provide a Paradi se Kit that includes a colouring book and pencils, games and puzzles. The flight attendants will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby 's food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are available on international flights.
ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT
Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic devices such as portable computers, compact discs or cassette players and video games can be used only when the seatbelt sign is switched off.
reco n1se • ote nt1a •
The Public Officers Superannuation Fund is one of PNG's leading investors.
The P.O.S.F. manages the sup era nnu a tion cont ributi ons of P G's public servants . That's a big r espo nsibility.
It's a lso a big opportun it y because we inv est this money to increas e the sav in gs of public servants and, on a broader sca le, to benefit eve r yo n e inPN G .
We do this by recognising so und, profitable in vestments. It may be land o r building developments, mining, commercial ventures, in fact anyw h ere we see potential for th e future.
Som e times ou r inv es tm e nts a r e short t e rm. Sometimes long term. But w e a lw ays inv est with the a im of bringing a r e turn to ou r members a nd overall growth to the future of PNG.
Because w e know that, just as with flowers, if we nurtur e pot e ntial carefully, we'll hav e a beautiful future.
To discuss your particular sound business proposal, please contac t the Managing Director by telephone on 32 1 2382, or by fax on 321 2745
Dendrobium Alba Tabo is an orchid unique to Papua New Guinea , a country rich in flora and fauna
It's also a country rich in human resources promising a bright future
The POSF plans to enrich that promise by turning today 's potential into tomorrow 's growth
Nara i Billy (photo above) s pent hi s boyhood in the rol lin g grass land and bush country of Koiari co untr y on the Sogeri Plateau, the very area he delights in sharing w ith his guests. He grew up on stories his father related of the strategic role their vi ll age Karakadabu played during World War Two. Named ' Depot ' by the army it is on ly abo ut twe lve kilometres from the start of the famous Kokoda Trail.
Just outside Karakadabu stands the monument (photos b elow) to Australian and Papua New Guinea servicemen and carrie rs who, wi th tremendous odds against them , resisted and defeated the invading Japanese army.
A cast bronze reli ef map (photo bottom right) traces the Trail and vi ll ages dotted through the rugged Owen Stanley Ranges whil e the surround in g text li sts the
numbers engaged in the campaigns. A sense of revere nce descends upon those reading these facts as they ponder the cost of freedom won in the mud and rain among those peaks , on those to11urous slopes, tl1rough the valleys and rivers.
arai Billy, manager of Koiari Tours, wi ll aJTange caJTiers and gu id es fo r those planning to trek the whole Trail. For anyone wish in g to tackle on ly a desired section it is possible to fly to vario us po int s a lo n g the Trail , w h e re accommodation is avai lab le and carriers can be engaged Ask him abo ut the trout fis hin g in the mountain streams.
The Moresby-Sogeri road fo ll ows the Laloki River (photo above). A masterpiece of engineering, the road is chise ll ed into the a lm ost ve11ical sides of the gigant ic boulder studded wa ll s of the Laloki River va ll ey. With tho e hairpin bends the driver can ' t afford to take in the scenery but the pa sse ngers enjoy Narai' s informative commentary on notable features including the pipelines snaking down the valley can ying Moresby's water s uppl y after it has spun the turbines that generate the city' s power.
Thundering Rouna Fa ll s, from which Rouna Power Station gets its name, are a tom ist attraction during the wet season. Sirinumu Dam is Moresby's reservoir from where water is piped ove r land to Rouna for power ge neration.
Housing villages at points along the pipeline accommodate Electricity Commission staff and co lourfu l roadside
A two-way radio network is to be estab li shed at each overnighting stop for the safety and peace of mind of Trail trekkers.
Sogeri at 800m above sea leve l is the town best known in the Koiari area.
Story and photographs by Keith Briggs
There is a lot of colonial history along the Laloki River Valley that Narai imparts in a lively way to his guests.
Yarirata National Park covers an area of 1,063 hectares of rainforest and savannah grassland. It is rich in bird and animal life in their natural habitat. Six picnic areas in the park are well maintained , with barbecues and free firewood provided (photo above). Shingle roofed shelters, clean tables and benches are a credit to the Park management. An information centre has pamphlets and posters outlining features of the Park and surrounding areas.
Six different walks can be taken depending on how much exercise you like! Birds of Paradise delight visitors with their colourful displays between mid March and the end of August.
Yarirnta Lookout on a fine day provides magnificent views of Moresby city and bays. Other lookouts command coastal views, giving visitors a living, colowful map of a vast area of the Central Province. The small fee paid to enter the Park is wo1th every toea as it obviously goes into responsible management and maintenance.
Crystal Rapids (photos below), an ideal family outing venue on the lawn-like area in the tranquil bend of the river , is a beautifully kept picnic and
On the return trip to Moresby Narai takes guests to the Bomana War Cemetery (photo below).
In an attractive peaceful garden setting marble 'headstones' commemorate thousands of soldiers killed on the Kokoda Trail during WW2. The names and ages of those young men bring lumps to the throats of visitors with sons in that age bracket. One cannot help wondering what it must have been like for parents , wives and sweethearts from all parts of the world to send their promising young men to fight, suffer and die in the unknown , inhospitable teJTain of the Owen Stanley Track where disease killed three times as many as did the enemy.
A day tour with Narai of Koiari Tours combines scenic delights with sobering memories of a past that has created a special bond between Australia and Papua New Guinea.
Contact Billy Narai on Phon e/Fax : 325 4403 for details and cos ts of his day tours and Kokoda Trail treks.
recreational area on the Laloki River. While some 1J L41L'-'lll.r"l!~..,,e-.• swim, dive or 'g umi ' on inflated motor tubes among the rapids, others play volley ball or chat in relaxed
~rutatu5e
Story by Chris Ashton Photographs by Hal Holman
Both as a patron to the artist and as a source of inspiration, Papua New Guinea has been good to Hal Holman, a debt he readily acknow ledges. In his lounge room in the north Sydney suburb ofThornleigh, a Papua New Guinean flag the size of a tablecloth, with its Southern Cross and Bird of Paradise in gold on black and scarlet backdrop, hangs from the wall. The bird of paradise is a recurring theme in Holman's artwork brinoing , I:> popular acclaim. One time it a lso brought bitter disappointment. However, a quarter of a century on, this has now been laid to rest.
Designer, painter, scu lpto r, inventor, Holman stands at a tangent to the planet , not least in appearance. His diminutive stature, 157.5mm in his stockinged feet, and complexion, worthy of an aging walnut, suggest a goblin from the bottom of the garden, or one of Snow White ' s seven dwarfs.
Surely he is not three quarters of a century o ld ? His energy, curiosity and enthusiasm for life, whether human or artistic, would do anyone half his age proud. Yet his CV shows him serving in the New Guinea campaign in the early 1940s.
A s hed of one's own is the cave to w hi ch modern suburban man can retreat. In the backyard of Holman's weatherboard bungalow are Mo such sheds. One is an artist's studio, the other a works hop. P aints, canvas, scrap metal and wood, hand tools and machines together with plaster, foam rubber, Heath Robinson contraptions Hal has devised for cutting or shaking air bubbles out of casts, a forge, a lathe and countless other items, trespass on one another ' s turf. What to the wor ld at large would be chaos is for him harmony in an artist's heaven.
Holman the artist is heir to the ancient tradition of the artist as a craftsman, of harnessing his gift to interpreting the physical world through a variety of mediums and materials. At the Darling Harbour Market Festival Hall the fibreglass flying black swans with the three-metre wing spans are his doing; so too ar e the bronze and steel pond creatures - frogs, ducks , tortoises and dragonflies - on the ornamental fence
Above: Hal Holman holds one of his pixie s c ulptures.
Left: One of Holman 1 s bird of paradise paintings
Various oth er m ediums of Holman 's art are pi c tured throughout this nrticle
along the embankment of Syd ney's Centennial Park lake. A Sydney-based Filipino entrepreneur recently commissioned him to sculpt a bust of Jose Rizal , Philippines ' national hero from its war of independence.
Insects , bird s , tortoises, small marsupials, even fairies, all larger than life and cast in various metals, figure prominently in his repertoire. / suppose it's because of my stature, he exp lains
Holman once des ig ned a se t of s tamp s for P a pua New Guinea of it s bird s, repti les and s mall m ar s upial s, much prai se d a t th e time . But hi s heart wasn't in it. To m e red u c in g thin gs t o miniatures we nt against th e g rain. I s upp ose 1 am try in g to prove that I am larger than life. r d rath e r ha ve been born on s till s than st ump s.
Not hin g in Holman 's c hildhood years s ig na ll e d the path he would fo ll ow. Th e sec urity of hi s earl y yea rs was s hattered by hi s pa.rent s' divorce a nd th e sa le of th e fam il y bu s in ess He was ta ke n out of S t Joseph 's Co ll ege, Riv e rview and went to S y dn ey Bo ys Hi g h , but left at I 5 to work on a s hee p s tation in outback Que e n s la nd. H e te ll s hi s story w ith out pain or se lf-p it y : That's been my ph il oso ph y eve r s in ce. Yo u p ic k yo ur self up , dust yo ur se (f"d own and ge t on w ith it .
The war brou g ht him back to Sydney where, under-age , he en li sted in the atmy. Po s ted to New Guine a he se rv e d as a se rgea nt with 2/6 Cava lr y Com m a ndo s. The wa r had him gat her in g intelligence behind enemy line s, pursuing civi li ans with proGerman a nd pro-Japanese leanings, evac ua tin g refugees and assisting US Mat·ines durin g their beac h land in gs on New Britain. When peace came he found his vocation: with an exserv ic eman's s tudy grant , he e nrolled for a Diploma of Art at Ea s t Sydney Technical College.
Back t o our point of de part ur e, the fact th at Papua New Guinea h as b ee n Holm a n 's princip a l patron a nd so urce of in s pirati o n , es pec ia ll y in hi s exp lora ti o n of it s n a tion a l em blem , the bird of parad ise. Papua New Guinea a nd Holman first crossed paths m o re b y c h a nce than design B y the ea rl y 1960s, Holm a n was a n es tabli s h ed commercia l a rti s t , la rge ly in Sydney but a lso fr o m a three-year s tint in India as an art director with a n adve rti s in g agency, a nd as a set d es ig ner an d a nim a tor in film a nd te lev is io n
In 1962 Ha l flew to Port Moresby for what was intended as a brief visit to see hi s s iste r. In s t ead he joined the De p a rtm e nt of Inform a tion and Extension Services, with the tit le Senior Illu s trat or, responsible for pi ct ures and ot her v is u a l a id s to gove rnment departments. Among hi s co ll eag ues and friends was a young journali st called Michae l Somare.
Wh e n Holm a n st arte d work in Port Moresby th e n otio n of Papua New Guinea as a sovereign state see med remote. In the decade that fo ll owed Somat·e res ig ned from the public se rvic e to esta bli s h th e country's fir s t political pa1ty; in 1973 was e lect e d th e first Chief Minister; and in 1975 became th e fir s t Prim e Minister.
Ho lman 's brief a lso changed He designed a se t of sta mp s of Papua New Guinea fauna a nd flora , fo ll owed by the na tion a l crest - a bird of paradi se perched o n a brace of spea rs and a wardrum , which co ntinu es in use to this day . With Ind epe nd e nc e a pproachin g, Holm a n planned to return to Australia. As hi s final homage to hi s ado pted cou ntry for more than a decade he co nceived , designed and built at his own expen se a ha lf-si ze mode l of a seve n-m e tre sta inle ssstee l bird of paradise (photo at top of pa ge). The idea was that it wo uld perch on a plinth in an ornamental lake in Wa.igani, th e new adm ini strative ce ntre of Po1t Moresby. Jets of water, floodlit after dark , wou ld s imulate the bird 's tail plume s. With its wings spread fu ll , it wo uld symbo li se the nation emerging.
The Papua New Guinean Cab in et approve d the project unanimou s ly and vo ted AUDS0,000 towards it. Thi s s um was match ed b y th e local C hin ese community.
The local sub sidiary of the Australian company Monier offered to supply material s and build the concrete plinth
The PNG Electricity Commission offered to in stall the li ghtin g while a local plumbin g fim1 offered to in stall th e pipes and no zz le s. Each of th e offers was free of charge.
Then it was cancelled An ex patriate lecturer at the University of PNG mobilised hi s students against it. How dare the Gov ernment award thi s to an expatriate? Doubt s, albeit spuriou s, were cast on it s structural soundness.
Cabinet withdrew its support Th e Chinese community follow ed suit.
Holman 's working relationship with trainee artists under his supervision had always been happy. ow, he was di sma yed. The bird had died, he r eca ll s. I felt a ce rtain amou nt of billerness , bllf I had to ge t on with life
H e cut th e model into pieces, wrapped them in hess i an sack in g and shipp ed th em to Sydney. There it was rebuilt and for m any yea rs stood in hi s Sydney suburban gard en
That mi ght hav e bee n th e end of it but Holman took it s picture and c irc ul ated copies to fri end s and pro spec ti ve c li ent s, amon g th em th e Queensland Government D epa11ment of Park s and Wildlife, hop in g proof of hi s tal ent mi ght brin g a brief to sc ulpt a lyrebird
No more was hea rd of th e bird until 1997 when an Australian co upl e still li v in g in Pap ua ew Guinea, friends of H o lm an from hi s Port Moresby days. sh owed the picture t o Ju stin Tk atc henk o, th e director of Port Moresby's park s and gardens
Tk atc henk o was enc h anted. He rang H o lman in Sydney, in si stin g that he bu y th e sca l e model for th e Botani ca l Gardens. Further ord ers fo llow ed for o th er sc ulptures, t yp ic al H o lm an pond creatures, c ulminatin g in a co mmi ssion for th e full-scale bird of paradise.
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H o lm an in si sted the bird be built in Port Moresby. A l oca l tr adesman, K affie Thomas from Chase Engineering worked on it full tim e, w ith Holm an CT y in g in from Sydn ey eac h month to monitor pro gress, co mpl etin g th e proj ec t in seve n month s. Apart Ji-0,11 runnin g out of s tee l o n ce. e 1•e r ythi 11 g went s m oo thl y , he recalls. It was quire a feat. Kaffie was Cl/fling. bending a nd weldin g. That's not easy wit h stain less s tee l as thick as yo ur t/111111/J I tak e m y hat off to him
The bi rd was install ed on its plinth in September 1997. It was not , as Holman wo uld hav e w i shed, in an orn am ental l ake w ith jet- prays simul atin g tailplumes. That l ake has yet to be built. It stand s in stea d at a bu stlin g inter sec tion, th e I sl and er Round about , aga in st a backdrop of power lines , advertising boards and li ght indu strial factories.
On e Po11 Moresby in sider lik ened this to han g in g th e Mona Lisa in a supennarket, an analogy Holm an like H e hope s a more suitabl e home will be found one day, but says he i s content that hi s vision has materialised. Holman is still incredulous at the change of fortune for hi s beloved bird: Th ere was no way I imagined it co uld ever be revived. H ere were these people I wasn't eve n in contac t with any more, s till talking about it, say in g w hat a s ham e it was that it hadn 't been built
Th e Papua ew Guinea Government ha s commissioned another sc ulpture by Holm an , an outsize ver ion of the nation al crest, which will stand outside Parli am ent Hau s.
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A Pili FUR PHILIPPE
Story by Marc Dozier
Photographs by Claire Angelloz-Nicoud and Marc Dozier
Philipp e and his friendly pig
Phi li ppe's Chinese astro logical s ign is the pig. ls it a coincidence that he loves Papua New Guinea where the favourite animal is the pig? Who know s, but the following story led me to think that Philippe 's life is definitely linked w ith this friend ly animal.
Over the last two years Philippe and I have spent many months in Simbu. We love thi s place and our adopted family, the Waus We s tayed with them in their tiny be a utiful hau s kunai (trad itional house made of wood and grass). B ut one particular day l ife was not so good for Philippe. Us ually in a very good mood every morning, this day he woke and drank hi s coffee without a word and went back to sleep on the grass outside . C uriou s, I asked him what was wrong. Don 't you see th e fire o n my arm? replied Philippe
After an attentive inspection of his arm, I discovered that the boil he got a few days previously had reall y inflamed. I started to look for a fireman.
Our hostess, Lina came along, looked at the am1 with a gr imace and called he r broth e r. John brought an axe in hi s hand. I thought he was go ing to cut Philippe's arm without any explanation, but he just came to sit with us. After a brief look , he made a quick i1Tevocab le diagnosis Boil we ha ve to opera te.
Philippe desperately looked at me with the look of a piglet who ha s just understood what a mumu enta il ed, but he agreed with a head s ign.
The chief surgeon cleaned hi s hand with a banana leaf and cal led in seve n men . For my part , I had the ro les of anaesthetist, nurse and assistant surgeon, but I can adm it that I also played the role of the very worried friend.
Five men held Philippe 's arm and legs sec urely and two others starte d to pre ss around the boil. Give him a stick that h e can bite , sa id the surgeon. Philippe refu sed the stick but began to feel more anxious than ever.
The open air operating theatre was full of people and it was hard to find light. The doctor, earnest in co ncentr at ion , scattered the pub li c with a brief Clear and continued hi s work.
I was expecting to hear an a uthoritative medical voice sharply say Scalpe l. In s tead of a scalpel, an assistant s urgeon held out a flower to the s urgeon . With the soft spines of thi s special medical flower , he managed to remove the pus near the s urface. Then , he started to pre ss on th e arm aro und the boil with an extreme stre ngth.
Philipp e and his unji-iendly boil
Philipp e's eyes were s hut so tight I thou g ht he wou ld never be ab le to open th e m again. Suddenly, th e wound exp lod ed and a n abunda nce of blood sp urted out. Tensed, Philippe lo oked at me a nd asked, What happened ? I s it ftnish ed ?
Yes and it was li ke a second Rabaul vo lcano exp los ion, I a n swe red.
Lookin g at hi s arm , he sa id , Anyway , it 's crazy, jive minutes ago it was so painful and now nothing just a magic ope rati on li ke in
Hi s voice s lowly dropped down when he discovered t he bloody, ga pin g hol e and added with a comic attitude , Where is th e meteor th a t made thi s c rater ?
Waaaoouu ... Back in France , I will say that I was traditi ona ll y operated on in the Hi gh lands of Papua New Guinea It will be all th e rage to pick up gir ls
With professionalism and without li s te nin g to Philippe, the s ur geo n banda ged th e wound with a traditional medicinal leaf.
As a motherly nur se, I didn ' t a ll ow him any visitors, but in Papua New Guinea when a friend is in troubl e, all hi s wantoks are by hi s s id e So, lik e a television s how - Live! The Philipp e Crying Show - the whole community came to look a t the wound, discuss the operation and rea ss ure Philippe.
We warm ly thanked the s urgeon as if he had ju st saved Philippe 's life and we actuall y believed that. A bi g boil is quite frequent in Papua New Guinea and doe s n't create any panic, but for poor westerners li ke us, when your arm is red, painful and three time s it s no1mal s ize , you . really fee l you are at death 's door. Ju st to be rea ss ured , I went to the post office and rang our travel in surance office to ask them about thi s traditional operation A doctor answered me and after a precise description of what happened , he said, Surgical sections everywhere in the wor ld wou ld have done the same, perhaps under anaesthetic P eople in the tropics know well all the types of skin disease wh ic h are common. So, no worries, just relax and wa it.
By chance, that same afternoon, Gorey came to no se around. Gorey is a very good friend of Philippe ' s, but we u sed to refer to him as a pig becau se of hi s we llrounded stomach, hi s no se always
s niffin g a ro und and hi s love for pig meat. Pe rh a ps a lso because in o ur Tok P ies , goret m ea ns pi g let.
Gorey is a t ypica l S imbu man , we ll eq uipp ed w ith a large-too th ed s mil e, a friendly ha bit of sq ueez in g yo u in hi s a im s lik e H e rc ul es w hen he's happ y to see yo u , a trib a l fi g ht sca r o n hi s leg, a ttes tin g that he is a g rea t fighter , a nd a to uc hin g te nd e ncy to c ry when we leave Philippe a nd Gorey m e t in Bo go a few kilometres from Kerowagi a nd became friend s As with rea l brothers , th ey exc ha nge presents. Durin g o ur fir st v is it , Go rey ga ve Philipp e a bea utiful kina s he ll. [n re turn th e following year, Philipp e brou g ht Gorey a dern ie r c ri (und e rw a ter watch).
Ai iii '!' sc rea m ed Gorey when he saw the red swo ll en ar m of Philipp e. A iiii ... Soo rriiii , he added.
To s how hi s so ri (sy mpath y), he in stantl y dec id e d to kill a pi g for Philippe We vigorously protes te d , knowing th e pri ce of a pi g, but Gorey told us: A hhhh , thi s is Papu a New Guinea , that 's o ur cus tom, a nd yo urs too, m y brothe1 ; so we wi ll kill a pig for you tomo rrow! Ri g ht now, I don't ha ve an y pi g, but many people ha ve dinau (c re dit) wit h m e. H e cal led to a pa sse r-by , M y brother, I killed a pi g for yo u fa st ye a,: R eturn me on e fo r my fri e nd Philipp e Without s urpri se or prote s t, the man smil e d and promi se d to brin g a pig th e next m o rnin g.
Th e re ar e m a ny ways to mumu a pi g but we c ho se Philippe 's favo urite one.
preparin g th e
First we killed th e pi g with a delicate but vigorous sti ck s hoot. It didn ' t mak e more no ise th a n opening a tin (photo above). Th e n Mondo, a relative of Gorey , plun ge d the a nim a l into boi lin g water, and th e pig 's eyes turn ed white H e lp e d by o ur Simbu broth er, Philip Wau , they remov e d th e sk in with s harp knives a nd pre pare d th e m eat. Mondo was expe rien ce d enough to o pe n a pi g polite ly - it is very rude to break th e stom ac h p ekpek (exc re m e nt) pock et.
At th e sa m e time Gorey 's wife Roxy peeled taro , kaukau a nd ta piok , and c ut vegetable leaves. She pre pared so m e sa usages and rolled th e m in the washed intes tin e of th e pi g. Philip pre he ated th e s ton es on a bi g fir e a nd arra nged th e m in th e mumu 's 80c m deep du g ho le. With ban a na leaves, he pre pa re d th e oven. The hol e created by th e mumu re mind e d Philipp e of th e hol e in hi s arm a nd he mad e a gr im ace s howin g hi s aim
Above: Pi g in p ot
Be low: Mondo ca refu lly cutting the pig 's s tomac h
Mond o put the tapiok at the bottom of th e ground oven and arranged the stones , vegetables and piec es of me a t.
A dog was li cking the banana lea ves to co ll ect some fat left behind until Philip gave him a s tron g kick.
Th e banana leaves formed hu ge pe tal s and the hol e of th e mumu was des ig ned like a bea utiful g iant marguerite
I wo uld not have bee n surpri se d to see a pi g w ith an o ld wa tc h in hi s h and s scream in g, /' 111 fa re. /' 111 late fo r th e m11m11 of tir e Q ueen. fo ll owe d by an A li ce w ith a bi /um full of swee t po tatoes on her sho uld er s. Papu a N ew Guin ea co ul d have bee n Wo nd erl and w ith th e l ar ges t butterfl y in th e wo rl d, th e bi g sago ca terpill ar and it s g i ant fl owe r s and trees. But th e rabbit wo uld have bee n a pi g, of co urse !
After an ho ur of tellin g surrea li sti c stor ies li ke thi s, wai ti ng fo r th e mu mu to be cooked , Philip ope ned th e ground ove n and do l ed o ut th e foo d . With a Hi g hl ander's in stin ct , Go rey arri ved ju st at t h is m o m ent. H e was bu sy in K erowag i ca mp ai gnin g to w in a co unc il sea t. Hi s shin y eyes showe d hi s eage rn ess to eat th e food . A hhh Philipp e, Ph ili p p e, Ph ili pp e, my brother let's ea t some of thi s wo nde , f ul pi g mea t , he sa id puttin g h is arm aro und Philipp e's should er s Of a ll ways of coo kin g m ea t , we Hi g hlande rs prefe r the 111 11 m u We ca n roas t p ig, h w we prefe r it in a m 11 n w with all th e fa / with !h e gree ns.
M o ndo pu11i11 g tapio k in !h e g ianl ma rg ue ril e
W e ate, ate and ate until our stom ac hs l oo ked lik e a pi g's, fl atterin g th e pi g w ith o ur l ar ge app etites It w as a rea l kin g's feas t , but w here was th e Qu ee n o f H eart s? R oxy carefull y pa c k ed so m e m ore foo d to g iv e to our hos t famil y beca use it i s th e custom to sho w res pec t and k ee p t he rec ipro ca l link s betw ee n r el ati ves and cl an memb er s.
I def y anybod y to find so m eo ne on eanh m ore happ y th an a Hi ghl and er ea tin g at a mu m 11. French l o v e win e, Ge rm an s l ove bee r , Ru ss i an s h ave vo dk a, A m eri ca n s enj oy Coca -co /a ,
Jap an ese drin k sak e and Chin ese lik e sn ak e bl oo d , but yo u ca n ma k e a w orldwid e tour as kin g A fri ca ns, So uth Am eri ca n s, Indi ans, eve r y b od y fr o m
A sian s to M arti ans w ill tell yo u th at th er e i s no one on ea rt h m ore happ y th an a Papu a ew G uin ea n ea tin g a pi g
Thi s year, w e are pl annin g to brin g our wa nt ok a pr ese nt m o r e c l eve r an d tradition al th an a wa tch . Can yo u guess?
It ca n be sm all and it ca n be bi g. It ca n be dom es ti ca ted and it c an be w ild. It ca n be bl ac k and it ca n be pin k But it alw ay s end s up in th e stom ac h of a Hi ghl and er. Wh at ca n it be?
I -;;is--.1-no::i_j_O il_!d-v--,I
Ma rc D oz ier is a Fr ench a rti s tph otograp her who has wo rke d with th e PNC Mu se um a nd A rt Ga ll ery. He wishes to ack nowledge all hi s Simbu wa nl oks, Philip KC, Mi chae l , Chri slin a Wau , Lin a, Ma ri na Wil son. Poll y. Mi ss and Mr Koima , Gorey and Roxy, J o hn a nd Mondo G hos t , Rose a nd Mi chae l , Tex ... and all th e olh ers, with o ut f orge /lin g Roger Gaer tn er a nd Juli e Ri cha rd.
Five mackerel from 12 bites in 30 minutes? That's right, and that's something for any game fisherman. Where? - off the shores of Lalaura village in Central Province.
Lalaura is located along the Magi Highway, about four and a half hours drive from Port Moresby. The village scenery, especially in the afternoon, is one of the best any Marshall Lagoon village can provide - spectacular beaches with hectares of swaying coconut trees and oceans of untouched fishing grounds.
The quiet and friendly people from Lalaura only take from the sea what they require for their daily meals. Fish for sale is basically non-existent , partly due to the fact that there are no freezer facilities available and that the distance from Port Moresby is considerable. But this is also why there is an abundance of fish off the Lalaura coast compared with areas nearer to the city.
At Lalaura the lifestyle is simple, yet so peaceful and rewarding.
Christmas 1997 was dawning on us when I climbed into the offside seat of a 4x4 Toyota Hilux single cab for the long drive to Lalaura . Behind the wheel was my colleague John. We left Tubusereia village at 3am on Christmas Day and arrived at LaJaura at 6.30am.
The next day, Boxing Day , Steve, a fisherman from Lalaura, Paul, a medical doctor from Manus and I decided to go trawling with the aid of a J9-feet banana boat powered by a 30-hp outboard motor. With Steve ' s local knowledge of the best fishing grounds around Lalaura, we wasted no time hunting around when we left the beach that morning as the sun was slowly making its way up from the horizon, heading straight for a reef not too far from the village. As Steve gathered speed going at full throttle, putting the boat in between and out of the early morning swells, I was already thinking about the number of mackerel we might catch. As we approached the fishing ground, Steve cut the engine and handed Paul and myself a fishing line each. Paul's lure resembled a fish and mine was a bright-coloured spoon.
When our lines were in the water, the engine roared into life and we cruised a long the edge of the reef, though much slower this time. A few minutes later, Paul 's lin e tightened and there it was - a mackerel a llri ght. Fighting back, it leaped into the air, throwing showers all over us and reflecting beautifully against the morning sun's rays.
Caught by what was happening, I forgot my own line and concentrated on Manusian as he heaved and tugged at his line. The mackerel did another 'sky show', landed in the water and was gone It had unhooked itself.
Paul shook his head in disbelief, but disclosed later that he was satisfied to have felt the electrifying experience of having to wage war on a fighting mackerel.
Minutes later, it was my tum. The feeling of a weight fighting at the other end of the line, especially against the current and on a moving boat, was an experience a first-timer would not forget in a long while. Coming from a coastal Papuan village myself and having gone through this a thousand-plus times already, I knew what to do. I pulled on the line with all my strength and refused to give the fish an inch of a chance to fight back. The mackerel came near the boat and I grabbed the wire- found between the hook and the string - and quickly threw the fish into the boat. I drew a smile of satisfaction, having accomplished what we had set out to do. My friends were happy too.
I threw in the Line again and the boat picked up speed once more to carry out our mission. For the next 20 minutes or so, Paul ' s line was like a livewire, shaking and tightening every now and then. On the other side of the boat, it looked as though my luck was gone. I could feel dried salt water on my forehead and chest , and my throat longed for an icy-cold stubby. (We settled for rainwater from a village water tank instead.) My line was dead, drooping and flowing to the tune of the oncoming tide. I could not understand why the doctor's line was so busy
getting all the bites while mine hung very loose at a distance. My count of his bites revealed seven in all, yet none stayed on to be hauled in.
Perhaps the mackerel preferred his lure better, or it could b e the distance of his line from the boat , were some of the reasons running through my mind as I sat pondering, changing the lure and adjusting the length of my line, but to no avail. I felt uneasy and funny thoughts flashed through my mind, thinking about all that I had done during the week, at work and at home. Ma y be the missus disagreed with my trip to La/aura and curs ed m e . (Mind you, the village cemetery is just metres away from my parents' home.)
The operator changed course and we headed in the opposite direction , this time riding into the waves but a little further from the reefs. There , the doc's luck hung on as he hoisted on board the largest catch of the trip Celebrations followed as I hauled in another prized catch. Although not a big as the medico 's, it was about the same size as the one I'd caught previously. So far, three mackerel in about 20 minutes.
Our operator, Steve decided that it was his tum to cast a line. What we were about to witness were the true colours of a Lalaura village fisherman In less than a minute , his line tightened and another mackerel was in the boat. Cruising a short distance he was again in action, hauling in another mackerel making it five in total. The villager's expert judgment told him that what we had caught was enough, so despite our plea to continue fishing, we headed back to shore with the five mackerel that we had caught without knowing that Steve had other reasons to return home early.
While we were out at sea, sports teams were already preparing for the one-off annual Christmas rugby league challenge between Port Moresby Kalawai and Lalaura village boys , which our operator wanted to watch. True to his words , we caught more than enough mackerel: it took two days with three meals each day to finish everything.
The mackerel were filleted and cooked in various ways, but the one I enjoyed most was when the fish was prepared fresh from the sea and creamed with coconut milk.
Umrnnun ummnun yummy. What a salty, yet tasty experience that was.
Keith Lahui is a sports writer with Papua New Guinea 's dail y newspaper, the Post Courier.
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One of the most popular garden plants in Papua New Guinea must be the Frangipani. Its reputation as a tropical plant was validated after the major pre-war eruptions one Saturday in May 1937. The mighty volcanoes Vulcan and Matupit blew their tops and engulfed the town ofRabaul. Frangipani was the first flower to bloom in the ashes as the town slowly returned to normal. It gave biJth to the famous Frangipani Festival, celebrated each year to commemorate the flower and its fragrance.
The Frangipani is a member of the plant family which include s Allamanda, Mandevilla, oleanders, Tra chelospermum jasmines and the Periwinkle or Vinca. These plants have a very regular flower with five petal s joined to form a nan-ow or broad tube There are climbers as well as shrubs and trees in the family. All have a thick milky sap which is poisonous and which was used for the production of rubber during World War 2 when the great Hevea rubber plantations were in the hands of the enemies of the Allies.
In twelfth century Italy the Frangipani and Pierleoni families dominated society. Their rivalry was exemplified by their influence on the Papal succession - religious politics , exiles from the homeland, intrigue and doubtless murder dominated their existence. However one member of the Frangipani family applied his influence to less mundane matters. He used essential oils to create a deEcate perfume which quickly found favour with the upper class. Catherine de Medici adopted it as her special fragrance because it was o different from other scents of the time Many a noble lady followed her example, leading to wealth for the Frangipani family.
Frangipani's creation was later to be discovered iJ1 the natural world during the sixteenth century when explorers ill the New World found a group of flowers with a similar pe1fume in Mexico and the Caribbean. They gave these the name Fran g ipani. We now classify them as Plumeria and separate out a number of species. The genus also occurs ill Asia where it has many myths associated with it. The names Pagoda Tree and Temple Flower allude to the liking Buddhist monks have for the flower and its scent.
The fact that it could be rev ived from seemingly dead cuttings ga ve it immortal power s and it is frequently planted around Buddhi st and Mu slim gra ve s.
The common frangipani is a cultivar of Plum eria rubra named acutifo lia. It originates in C e ntral America and typically ha s white flowers with bro a d sunflower-yellow centres. Many colour forms have been develop ed A few examples are: Can Can - with a delicate pink flush on the petal s; Golden Ki ss - apricot with a pink wash down one side of each petal; American Bea uty - very deep red flower s with narrower, almo st pointe d petal s; and Pot of Gold - a go ld e n tinge colours the large flower s
Frangipani 's original scent is pre se nt in nearly all the cultivars of rubra. It pervades the air, especially in the still of the night , with a delicate gardenia-like fragrance. The scent is not so prominent in the other s pecie s .
Other member s of the genus have similar growth habits though the petal s of P steno phy lla (w ith a blunt tip) and P stenope tala (with a pointy tip) are very narrow Both are white with a yellow centre. The Evergreen Frangipani
P obtusa is popular with some gardeners because it does not shed its leaves over the dry season. The flowers are very similar to those of rubra but have less yellow in the centre The leaves tend to be rounded at the tip rather than pointed
Frangipanis are one of the easiest plants to propagate. Small or large branche can be broken from an established plant. These should be ealed quickly by dipping the cutting in an.d or soil to stop the sap flow The cutting should be laid in a cool spot for a few week to dry out. It can then be planted directly into the garden or grown in a large tub. There is little size limit to cuttings propagated this way: the Frangipani is one of the few 'instant' trees or shrubs which can be harvested from the parent plant and put in a permanent spot a few weeks later with almost guaranteed survival.
Dr Eric Lindgren lived in Papua New Guinea for many years. He is interested inflora,fauna and World War II histo,y.
Co-operation is a skill we teach our children because everyone benefits when we help each other out. When animals of different species give each other assistance for their mutual benefit, it is called mutualism. Some cases of mutualism are so fundamental, the co-operation is at the physiological level, rather than in any behaviour performed by the mutualistic partners.
Story by Danielle Johnson
Photographs by Danielle Johnson and Chris Robin
Such is the case when the organisms assisting one another are an animal and a ;:,!ant. One of the most intimate relationships developed aeons of time ago in the shallow, sunlit seas of the tropics. The relationship flourishes in the seas around Papua New Guinea. It is the relationship between plants called zooxanthellae and some marine invertebrates.
Zooxanthellae are marine forms of yellow or brown algae, single-celled plants which drift in the upper layers of the ocean. The zooxanthellae are special algal forms in that they are characteristically found in the tissues of their invertebrate hosts. The zooxanthellae are sometimes very specific about which host will enable their survival , and only one or two species will do.
Among the animals which have evolved symbiotic (living together) associations with the microscopic algae are the reefbuilding corals and some of their relations The corals eat the zooxanthellae, but not as food: corals are strictly carnivorous and feed during the hours of darkness on animal plankton. Instead , the corals consume algae in order to grow them within the tissues of their own bodies, in a system of self-contained agriculture .
Why do corals go to this trouble? Like all plants, the algae use sunlight for photosynthesis, a plant's breathing process, which produces sugars, oxygen and other nutrients. The corals are unable to use the oxygen for their own breathing requirements and other by-products to supplement their own nutrient source . Without the extra energy supplied by their 'guest workers', the tiny coral animals would not be able to build the massive coral reefs of the tropics .
Left and top: Coral pol yps ingest the microscopic al ga e, which will then grow and produ ce oxygen within th e c oral's soft tissues
In return, the coral's wastes feed the zooxanthellae. The algae consumes carbon dioxide, phosphorous and nitrogen which just happen to be the byproducts of the coral's metabolism. How convenient that the photosynthesis process should provide an efficient removal system for the coral, and promote healthy and vigorous growth for both organisms.
But there's a catch Because of this dependence on each other, corals can only live in water shallow enough for sufficient sunlight for photosynthesis to occur. This also holds true for the hydroids, anemones and other relatives of corals which also live on the reef.
Corals and their relatives aren't the only invertebrates to make use of these useful plants. Other animals which are host to the algae are some species of clams. The giant tridacnid clams of the Indo-Pacific are beautiful and conspicuous when viewed through the clear water. The exposed soft tissues resemble gorgeously coloured velvet. Peacock-blue and moss-green are common shades, often in combination with other colours.
The largest member of the Tridacnid family, Tridacna gerasa (photos below left and right), can attain sizes of up to two metres. Other tridacnids may grow to about a metre
These enormous molluscs contain many thousands of tiny zooxanthellae, especially in the soft mantle tissue (photo below) which is fully exposed on the upper surface of the clam when it is submerged. This tissue is actually an extension of the clam's siphons, which sweep the seafloor like a vacuum cleaner, sucking up food particles. The siphons are less conspicuous in smaller bivalves than in clams. The great exposure of the mantle ensures maximum exposure to sunlight which the zooxanthellae require for photosynthesis. The dark colour of this tissue safeguards the host's cells from intense solar radiation. Yes, clams could get sunburn without the protection of deep pigmentation!
Within the se tissues, the zooxanthellae are also surrounded by their host's waste products substances which the little algae use to build their own proteins. But this is
where the resemblance to the corals ends: the clams digest the algae, supplementing their planktonic meals with algae. The reefs which receive the most sunlight and therefore the most oxygen from the photosynthesizing algae are usually the most prolific.
In a strange twist of the tale, symbiosis between zooxanthellae and host can skip a link in the food chain. Nudibranchs are shell-less snails, also known as sea slugs, that feed on corals, hydroids and anemones. By some independent evolutionary mechanism , some of the nudibranchs have also evolved the ability to grow zooxanthellae in the bodies, and feed off the harvest of the photosynthesising plants.
The species of nudibranch which indulge in this activity belong to the aeolid group. They have long tubular bodies studded with finger-like outgrowths called cerata . The cerata act as gills and also contain a long branch of gut. Nudibranchs which accommodate zooxanthellae have made adaptations in their biology for this purpose They have greatly increased their surface area to maximise sun exposure. Their cerata are fan-shaped and do not shade each other, acting as solar panels . Their translucent skin already makes it easy for light to penetrate the body for photosynthesis.
The blue dragon, Pteraeolidia ianthina, is one such nudibranch. It starts life as a small white slug living on or near the hydroids it eats At an early stage, it consumes a hydroid polyp containing a few zooxanthellae, then stimulates them to grow rapidly and multiply. The blue dragon gradually darkens as it develops a brown layer of plants just beneath its skin. At this stage it moves away from its hydroid food, able to live on the nutrients produced by the photosynthesising plants in its tissues.
Some nudibranches have no need for the extra nutrients provided by photosynthesising partners. What they need is camouflage. Because they have no shell for protection, their soft bodies need other defences from predators which might otherwise nibble at their soft sluglike bodies. By ingesting the coloured algae, these nudibranchs take on the colour of their food. By harbouring algae identical in colour to the coral colony on which they are sitting, the animal becomes almost invisible to predators.
A little bit like organic food colouring. It just goes to prove the old adage: you are what you eat.
Danielle Johnson, a former research scientist in molecular evolution, works as a freelance photojournalist , specialising in the diversity of cultures and natural history around the world.
Corals are able to deposit the limestone essential for building reefs, with the assistance of the photosynthesizing algae
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Top: Nudibranchs are soft-bodied invertebrates which live off the harvest of zooxanthellae.
Below: Coral polyps ingest the microscopic algae
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Bryan Kenau - winner of the Photograph Competition Brothers in arms
against their golden brown My admiration soon turned to fascination upon learning that this was the famous bagi - shell money - that formed an integral part of the Kula Trade Circle Historically traded from island to island for bartered goods, bagi has become a prized yet wearable currency throughout Milne Bay.
And here I am about to land where it all originates, Rossel Island, a small reef lined island as far out in the Louisiade Archipelago as one can go. With an incredibly generous invitation from the Catholic Mission here , I will be able to photograph the making of ba g i and learn first hand about this truly unique concept of shell money.
Arrival at Pwamba is an event, with everyone out to meet the fortnightly vi s it from the outside world. This tiny village settlement (photos above and ri ght) ha s a grass airstrip that cuts across a palm filled peninsula As I gaze out to the distant white reef with blue ocean beyond, dugout canoes with outrigger s pull up from the lagoon It' s a day of trade and transportation and the beach is alive with laughter, children and food
vintage, with peeling paint, well worn dec ks and diesel smoke billowing in the wind We are absolutely filled to the brink with familie s returning to their vil!ages, basket s of copra and other cargo. Chugging along through an interior pa ss age , the calm , crystal clear water of the protected lagoon is in dramatic c ontra st to the thunderous sound of surf crashing on the nearby reef. All eyes are open for any unexpected submerged dangers as the island unfold s with ultra green rainforest hill s perched upon an underwater plateau of coral formations Everything seem s so deserted as a palm lined coast drifts by, until rounding the point, the village clu ster that is tonight's de stination appears
We arrive with a setting tropical sun, and once the boat's engine shuts down, the peaceful sounds of is land calm envelop us There are not more than a dozen hou ses , all made from bush material s and ju st a stone's throw from the water 's edge . A s darkness begins to fall we quickly settle in our thatched gue sthou se on stilts The night is quiet with a full moon shining through the
palms as we get acquainted over a welcoming dinner of freshly caught fish, taro and yams.
With morning comes the mission boat's true mission. The villagers begin to gather as the teenage crew gets to work, cargo is unloaded and a shop set up on shore. It seems that domestic necessities become luxuries this far away. From rice, sugar and biscuits to soap and fishing hooks, goods from 'the big smoke' arrive in paradise. Father English is also the local bank representative and copra broker, so he is busy weighing sacks of the dried coconut meat and calculating prices. Meanwhile, the nursing sister from the mission has set up her impromptu health clinic. TB vaccinations and penicillin 'shots' are the order of the day for these young mothers with babies who have gathered around It's a fascinating display of life off the beaten track!
So with the day's business finished and what's left of the cargo packed away, out comes Father's white robe and silver chalice. There is even a makeshift wooden crate altar complete with cloth and candle. Changing gears from travelling trade store, it's time now for a few hymns, communion and a short mass before heading off to the next village.
Father English 's vestments: combining bagi shell money with the church
We made a half dozen similar stops on the way to St Paul' s Mission in Jingo Of these, Yonga Bay and Mwopa turned out to be my destination. While the mission crew repeated their always welcome routine, I was free to explore and photograph the making of bagi. It turns out that Rossel Island 's shell money is only made in these two villages because only here is found the special shell needed- Chama Pa cifica lmbricata.
Often diving to a depth of more than fifteen metres, the young men risk bursting an eardrum to retrieve these rare shells. This crusty cousin of the oyster reveal s a smooth pearl white interior, but it is the narrow band of deep red around the rim which is the only useful part. First, rough-edged pieces of this rim are broken off. To grind them flat, these chips are placed one at a time on the end of a green stick (freshly cut on a slant) and with constant pressure rubbed against a flat stone, one side then the other.
Below: A cousin of the oyster (Chama Pacifica Imbricata) is used to make bagi .
Next step is to drill a small hole in the centre . They use the basic technology of an 'archimedean twist drill'. A tiny triangular file for the bit is attached to a wooden spindle that turns and reverses repeatedly, and thus each piece is handdrilled separately.
Right: A freshly cut green stick holds the shell chip for grinding.
Chipping
Above:
off the useful red rim
Averag in g e ig ht to a ce ntim et re, the now flattened and drilled s he ll di scs are threaded on to a stiff wire until the desired length is achi eved Comp ressed w ith pressure from eac h end, the strand of rough-edged pieces of s he ll is patiently rubbed and rolled over a flat grind in g stone These large stones a re set pe1manently into the gro und and have long grooves th at obv iou s ly h ave evo lv ed from years of this final gri ndin g and polishing process. After many days effort, the final strand of bagi is rethreaded bead by bead in exact l y th e same order onto a lengt h of pandanus bush str in g, a nd a bit of coco nut oil is app li ed to bring out the colour as a finishing touch.
The incredible amount of work involved, the rich co lour and beauty, and it s rarity and uniqueness to Rossel Island all help account for it s wo 1th . Bagi was traditionally traded with Tagula Island (Sudest), their nearest neighbour. The exchange was for clay cooking pots ,
black stone axe blades and carved wooden bowls , all of which are not produced on Rossel Island. From there ba g i found its way into the Kula Trade Circ le where each island contributes its own spec ia lt y. In this way it travelled further than any local islander could have.
Whereas bagi is trade money for exchange outside the island or for Kina to buy mission goods, Rossel Island has more traditional ceremonial shell money. Ndap and Ke are worn and polished large white beads or individual pieces of red or yellow s hell.
Above: Grinding flat the red shell c /iip s: first one side 1h e 11 the oi li er
Left: An 'Arc him eclean twis1 drill' used for !he hole
Below: Threading th e c hip s on a s tiff wire
Above left: Grinding the shells on a.flat stone set in the ground takes days.
Above right: Finished bagi shell money
Right: Ndap and Ke are ancient shell money handed down through the generations
All are very old, and in fact are said to be made by the gods. Unlike bagi, no one can make new Ndap and Ke and so they are handed down through generations to be used only for important exchanges like bride price and death compensation.
IFYOI HAVE THI IAID, _ JIE
IDMI IS ,,EASY.
These shell monies are most highly prized. Discerning the quality and worth seems to be an acquired art based on colour, size, shape and also reputation. Who owned it before, and what transaction was it part of? The pieces of Ndap are even individually named and recognised on sight. It's obvious that I only touched on the complexities involved!
As always in Papua New Guinea , upon investigation there is more than meets the eye. Tracking down a simple shell necklace has revealed yet another corner of paradise strong with unique culture, unique craftsmanship and unique people. With this search for shell money, I can bank on a treasure of valued experiences
BOOK REVIEW - The Sky Travellers
by James Gr iffi n
Journ eys in New Guinea 1938-1939
The l 930's was the great age of inl a nd exploration in Papua New Guin ea. By the start of World War II in September 1939 the major bl a nk s o n its map had been filled in , althou g h it was not until the 1960s that all cl a n s in isolated pockets were cont ac te d by patro l officers.
Mi c k D wye r and Mick Leahy , the most f amou s of t he freebooting prospectors , had crossed the is land in 1930 linking th e R a mu a nd Purari rivers. The Waghi Vall e y (Western H ighlands) had been op e ne d u p by Leahy and Assistant Di stri c t Officer Jim Taylor in 1933. The South e rn Hi gh lands in Papu a had been e xplored by Jack Hides and Ivan Ch ampio n from 1935-1937.
In 1938 some 26,000 sq kms of mountain o us terrain from Mt Hagen to th e P a pu an and D utch New Guinean bord e rs re m a in ed to be mapped. The Admini s tra ti o n of the New Guinea Mand ate, un der some pressure from the L e ag ue of Nations to extend its control, dec ide d to mo unt an expedition that was e ntire ly its own instead of following the initi a tiv es of fort une hunters.
Th e res u lt was the Taylor-Black ex pe di tio n from March 1938 to June 1939. It was the longest (traversing
3,000kms to a height of 3,500 metres), largest (involving 350 people including five police wives) and costliest patrol ever undertaken It had the benefit of intermitt e nt prov1s1on111g by aeroplane as well as occasional wireless contact. (On 31 May I938 the famous fonner Australian Prime Minister, Billy Hughes, sent greetings from Rabaul.) Nevertheless the trek was arduous and perilous. Compared to it the Waghi Patrol has been called 'mostly a stroll through a new and fascinating culture'.
Jim Taylor (1901-87), the obvious choice as leader of the expedition, was a rem a rkable kiap. He had been only 16 when he joined the Briti sh army in the last years of World War I. He had migrated to Australia and served in the police before joining the New Guinea service in 1926. Well-read , chivalrous and courageous, he developed an empathy with villagers and sought a better deal for th e m than was offered in racist, colonial days. However, he did
not hesitate to use vio lence in se lfdefence.
John B lack ( 1908-88), the seco nd- incommand, was well ed ucated, had so m e university training as an eng ineer and in geology and had joined t he New Gu in ea service in 1933. He had take n pa rt in pun1t1ve act ion against agg ress ive High landers and believed impos in g order saved lives in the lo ng ru n I n ti me he came to believe that it was the w h ite man who needed to be more ope n to th e Pap uan point of view.
At last a book has been writte n not ju st describing the explorations of Tay lo rBlack but probing the characte rs of th ese two remarkab le men. Bi ll Gamm age in The Sky Travellers bases hi s a na lys is o n their writings and on co nvers~t io ns w ith them between 1967 and thei r dea th s. Uniquely in the literat u re of s uc h exploration, he has interwoven w ith th e white man's perspect ive t he in sig hts an d memories of indigeno us po l ice a nd carriers. Some 150 interviews h ave go ne into making this book.
In Canberra 1981, John Black , B ill Gammage and Jim Tay lor d iscuss th e expedition
Sg t L o p a 11 go m of Buk a u , M o ro b e, th e patro l' s se ni o r p o li ce m a n
Th e res ult is strikin g ly di ffe re nt fr o m
th e co nv e nti o na l ex pl orat ion na rr a ti ve in whi c h th e w hite ca pt a in s ha ve bee n th e pre d o min a nt age nt s of w hat ha pp e n s
G a mm age s ho w s th a t w hit e lea d e r s w e re m o re o ft e n led th an lea din g as po li ce m a nipul a t e d a nd ex pl o it e d n e wl y co nt ac t e d v ill age r s, not exc ludin g pill age a nd ra pe N e ith er d oes he s hirk ' th e fundam e nta l dil e mma ' o f th e pl ac e of v io le nce in imp os in g th e ' P ax
Au s tra lian a'. A t least 2 0 v ill age rs we re s hot durin g th e p a tro l.
Th e rati o na le fo r s uc h v iol e nce was that Hi g hl a nd e rs w e re in a ny cas e a lwa ys en gage d in w a rfa re Tay lo r es timated t h a t a bo ut 2 00 killin gs occurre d e ve ry ye a r in th e W ag hi a lo ne.
Hi g hl a nd e r s h a d few sc rupl es about attackin g e ve n th e intrud e r s th e y believed to be pre tern a tural 's k y tra ve ll e r s' for wh a t a pp e ar e d to be fa nt as ti c wea lth. S o th e o nl y reco ur se fo r ki a ps see m e d to be to fi g ht in se lfdefe nc e. Th e ir polic e a nd carri e r s re lied o n th e m t o get ho m e safe ly. Th e saf e re turn w as a white leade r 's prim a r y o bli ga tion On e carri e r o nl y di e d d urin g th e 15 m o nth s tre k
Tay lo r beca m e pa11i c ul a rl y aware of hi s res po n s ibili ty fo r hi s pa rt y w he n he ne arly dro w ne d at th e hea d wate rs of th e S tri c kl a nd Ri ver w hil e acroba t ica ll y tr y in g to c ross it b y ca ne rope us ing ha nd c uffs as a pull ey. Wh e n hi s boots s lipp e d , he plun ge d int o the rampag in g s trea m . R ea li s in g th ey mi g ht no t get ho m e w ith o ut Tay lo r, o ne po li ce m a n , K aro , jumpe d in aft e r h im Bo th were lu c k y t o s ur v iv e. Tay lo r was less rec kl ess afte r th at.
G a mm age writes w ith se n s 1t1 v 1ty a nd ass u ra nce a bo ut sex ua l re la ti o ns. B lack , wh o had led hi s g ro up to Te lefom in, e ve ntu a ll y too k a v ill age g irl , Babi nip , to be d. H e was s urpri sed to fi nd he r 'as primitiv e ly pass io nate as yo ur s upp ose dl y c ivili se d s iste r '. It became a love affa ir a nd Bl ac k 's v iew of th e fac ul ties of vill age rs improve d a s a res ult
H oweve r, he co uld no t take her w ith hi m a nd m a n y yea r s la te r he was st ill wo nd e rin g w he th e r he s ho ul d have taken he r as hi s w ife, pru ti c ul a rl y after v is iting Tay lor in Gorok a ru1d see in g how devoted he ru1d hi s w ife Ye rim a (fro m th e Wahgi) we re to eac h o th e r. Bl ack's fru·ewe ll to B a binip is to uc hin g. S he had mod ified hi s rac ist v iews of New G uin ea peo pl e. Th e Tay lor-Bl ac k pa t ro l did not exci te th e publi c im ag in a ti o n in sp it e of its sco pe a nd hero is m. It fo und no th in g of
great prac ti ca l va lu e , m ea nin g part ic ul ru· ly go ld Tay lo r d id no t fi ni s h hi s 50 1 page re po rt until Jun e 19 40 B y t hat t ime war had broke n o ut a nd it was ha rd ly no ti ced W ithin th e New G uin ea serv ice t here was co ns id era bl e e nvy a nd t he ' pro- nat ive ' v iews w hi c h bo th Tay lor and B lack ha d d eve lo pe d we re rese nte d. Afte r th e wru· bot h return ed to wh a t had beco m e t he P a pu a a nd New Guin ea se rv ice. Jim Tay lo r beca m e Di stJi c t Officer in th e H ig hl a nd s, ' th e las t e mp ero r of th e middl e kin g dom ', as he pu t it. In 1949 h ~ res ig ned to bec om e a coffee p la nte r a nd a lege ndru ·y pa n·iach in Goroka. Tay lo r di e d in 19 87. B lack a lso res ig ne d fr o m th e se rvi ce in 1949 I n s pite of hi s zea l in promoting bette r re la ti o n s be t wee n th e races h e r et u rned to a fa rm in g li fe in South A us trali a whe re he di e d in 19 8 8.
B ill Gam mage has w ritte n th e bes t bo ok yet of exp lora ti o n in Papu a New Guin e a . As he has h imse lf walke d th e n-ac ks o f Tay lor a nd B lack it has a ra re a uth e nti c ity.
Eme r itus Professor Ja m es G ri ff in taugh t at the U ni l'e rs ity of Papu a New Guinea fo r 15 yea rs
T he Sky Trave ll e rs is p ubli s hed by Th e Mieg u nyah P ress, Me lbo urn e. It w ill soo n be amilab le in Po r t Mo resby boo ks hop s.
Co n s tab le Ke n a i of Manus shows M ikidopnok ( left) and Brelopno k p ho tos of th em whi ch J o hn Black took a nd de ,•e loped tha t day, Telefom in , 13 Septembe r 1 938.
Put so me Ram u in it .. .
This is our new SaveCard. Its new look reflect s our new way of doing things at The Bank - modern, efficient and friendly. With a SaveCard you can withdraw money from any of the PNGBC Automatic Telling Machines (ATMs) located all around PNG. You can also shop at EFTPOS merchants without carrying ca sh
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Jerm ain e Dupri & M ari ah Carey
SO SO DEF
My Favourite Mi s take
Sh er y l C row
A & M
No Fool No More
E n Vog ue
WB
Come And Get With Me
K eith Swea t fea turin g Sn oo p Dog EL E KTR A
The Power Of Good-Bye
M ado nn a M AV ERI C K
Never There
Cake CAPRI CORN
Hands
Jewe l ATLA NTI C
Rollercoaster
B * Wit ched EPI C
Slide Th e G oo G oo D o ll s THIRD RAIL
Smoke
N at ali e Imbru g li a RCA
True Colors
Phil Collin s WE A
I Want You Back
M el ani e B f ea tu r in g Mi ssy Elli ot WB
Nobody's Supposed To Be Here
D ebora h C ox A RISTA
Da ys leeper
R E M
WB
Treat Me Good
B ac hel or Girl
GOTH A M
EASY LISTENING
Channel: 7
In My Life
B ett e Midl er ATLANTI C
That 's The Way She Love s Aaro n N ev ill e A & M
If I Never Knew You
Jon Seca da & Shani ce WALT DISN EY
Show Some Emotion Ce lin e Di on EPI C
So Amazing Luth er Vand ross EPI C
Imagine Rand y C rawfo rd DINO M U SI C
Hero
M ari ah Ca rey COL U MBIA
Fragile
Stin g A & M
A Whole New World
( Aladdin' s Theme)
Pea bo Bry so n & Reg in a B ell e COL U MBIA
Kis.s of Life
Sade E PI C
At Seventeen Jani s I an FESTIVAL
Love Will Find A Way
Dionn e War w i ck & Whitn ey H o ust on A RISTA
This Masquerade Geo rge B enso n WARNER BROS
COMEDY
Channel: 9
The New We s t
Red Sk elt o n DELTA M US I C
A Mozart Opera by Borge Vi ct o r Bo rge COL U MBIA
Stupid Thing s E ll en D eGeneres ATLANTI C
The As tronaut
B i ll D an a w ith D on Hinkl ey RHINO
Telegram A lan B enn ett
L AU GHIN G STO CK
Athletics Ro bert Kl ein RHINO
Two Daughters
Bill Cos by WA RN E R
' Full Frontal Radio ' , ' Prune Manifesto' , ' Buffers' and ' Critics '
I'm So rr y I ' ll Read Th at A ga in BB C
Supermarkets
Jerry Seinfeld UN IVERSAL
The Window Cleaner
G eo rge Fo rmb y CONIFER
COUNTRY Channel: 10
Gettin ' Gone
L ee K ern ag han A BC
It Mu s t Be Love
T y H ern do n EPI C
A Little Past Little Rock
L ee Ann Wo mac k M CA
Where Your Road Leads
Tri sha Yea r wood wi th Ga rth
B roo k s M CA
You're Gone
Di am o nd Ri o A RI STA
Let Mc Let Go
Fa ith Hill
W B
There You Have It
Bl ack haw k A RI STA
Walk A Country Mile
K eith U rb an EMI
Poor Me
Joe Diffi e EPI C
Wrong Again
M artina M c Brid e RCA
How Do You Fall In Love
Al ab am a RCA
Every Time
Pam Tilli s ARI STA
These Arms
D w i ght Yoa kam REPRISE
You Can ' t Make Everything Okay
Shanl ey D el ROO A RT
Bang A Drum
Chri s L edou x with Jon Bon Jovi CAPITOL
Nobody Love, Nobod y Gets Hurt
Su zy B ogg uss CA PITOL
Someone You U s ed To Know
Co llin R aye E PI C
CHILDREN'S Channel: 11
Monster Mash
B o bb y ' B o ri s' Pi cke tt and Th e
C r y pt - Ki cke r s
TIM E- LIF E
The Dog Next Door
D on Sp ence r & Fri end s A BC
Wags The Dog
Th e Wi gg l es A BC
Frog Ki ss ing
So me Frogs from Th e Mu ppe ts AS T OR
Little Toot
A l an Li v in gs t on CA PITOL
Tick Tuck
Th e H oo l ey D oo leys A BC
' C ' Is For Cookie
Coo ki e M onster from Sesa me Stree t A BC
The Sncetches
D r Se uss RCA
The Drawing Song
Sesa me Stree t Cas t
AB C
The Shoemaker & The Elves
Paul Win g
RC A
Ch C h Ch The Toothbru s h
Song
M o ni ca. G eo rge, Tri sh , Sim o n and Benit a
A BC
How Do They Get That Toothpaste In the Tube?
Th e T oo thp as te Fac tory
AB C
Hopalong Cassidy and the Two Legged Wolf
Willi am B oy d
CA PITO L
Goin' For A Ride
Th e A ny thin g Mupp et s
A BC
Goldilocks & The Three Bears
Th e Co unt fr om Sesa me Stree t
A XIS
Eggs
Sim o n Bourke
A BC
Pigs In Space
Th e M upp et s
A STO R
With A Little Help From My Friends
Elm er F udd & Bu gs Bunn y
RHI NO
PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Channel: 8
Kobiai
M ailu v ill age ( M ag i )
Ce nt ra l Prov in ce
[Panpipes]
G omri v illa ge (Chimbu ) Chimbu Pro v in ce
Sore Mama
Roc k band by Cicili a 'Zenn a Greg' M orobe Provin ce Chin H M ee n Reco rdin gs
Uuyambe
Kil alum v ill age ( Sulk a) Eas t ew Brit ain Prov in ce
Awal if llahit a v ill age ( South Arap es h) Eas t Sepik Pro v in ce
That day is coming closer
Sono ma Adv enti st C o ll ege Ch o ir Reco rdin gs by TCPNG
Kaa1>aumma
l raa bo v illa ge ( U sa ru fa -Au y an a, sa ru fa di al ec t ) Eas tern Hi ghl and s Prov in ce
'labuti'
lrel ya v ill age Enga Pro v in ce
Papa Paulo H ara hara B an d of Mi aru Gulf Provin ce Walt er Ba y Co mpan y Reco rdin gs
Kanipu ivi
K arurua vill age ( Purari )
Gulf Prov inc e
Gunal
Vu v u Ialire
Ro c k Band by N aro x Pa c ifi c Go ld Studi os Reco rdin gs
Kasama
K epara vill age ( Hunjera ) Oro Provin ce
Wakuwko
Mal as an ga vill age
M orob e Pro v in ce
Pipa Man
Cit y Hiker s Strin g band o f ati o nal C apital Di stri ct
K alan g Reco rdin gs
Tatarore
Waidoro vill age
We stern Provin ce
Gawa
Wal ete ( Huli )
South ern Hi ghland s Prov in ce
E Pain Ta Riwo Bamboo B and of M adan g Pro v in ce
K alang Reco rdin gs
Sawo
Kwomtari vill age ( K w omtari )
Wes t Sepik Provin ce
Twigul 'Vasu korekore'
Voni skopo vill age ( H aho n) N orth Solomons Pro v in ce
lurusalem
G os pel Band b y E x il es G os pel of Rabaul
Pa cifi c Gold Reco rdin gs
Leleki
G o he v ill age ( Ma wa n) Patsui vill ag e M adang Prov in ce Manu s Province
Cha1111 e/ 8 reco rdin gs co mpil ed by Mu s ic Depa rtm ent In stitut e of Papu a New Guin ea S tu dies
QI. Pam i s 63, Mike is 28. Use equ ati ons:
P + M = 9 1
P = 3 (M - x)
2M = P -x
Q2 1.05pm
Q3 Si x Four darts sco rin g 17 eac h = 68, plu s two dart s sco rin g
16 each = 32 = 100.
A IR C RAVf - Mi ss in g
I M arkin g on bac k of pl ane
2. Wh ee l
3 Tail w in g
4. Lin e on fro nt of pl ane
5 Back w hee l
6 Mark in gs on w in gs
7 Head ge ar on pil ot
8. Pi lot 's hand s
bangle dan gle, j angle, man gle, tangle.
WHERE IS IT?
I M ex ic o City, M ex ico
2. Veni ce, Ital y 3. M oscow, Ru ss ia
G 0 L F L E s s 0 N
FEATURE FIL~S
I nte rnatio nal flights: from Port Moresby to Port Moresby
JANUARY
Wrongfully Accused Dance With Me
Genre: Ac tion/ Co med y Rated: PG - 13
From : ELM 87 minut es
R ya n Harriso n , a v io lin god , s uper sta r and sex sym b o l, d ecl in es c hea tin g with sexy La ure n Goodhue beca use of he r hu sband. Shortl y after that , Mr G ood hu e is found murd ered a nd R yan s uddenly finds himself bein g the main s us pect. After bein g sen tenced to d ea th he man ages to fl ee whi le being transferred to hi s exec ution s ite. ow, a lJ the wor ld is afte r him and he stumbl es from one unfort un ate incident to th e nex t in order to find the real murderer.
Featuring: Leslie Nielsen, Richard Crenna, Kelly LeBrock , Melinda McGraw
Director: Pat Proft
Genre: Drama
From: COL Rated: PG 120 minute
When a h andsome young Cuban named Rafae l arrives in Hou ston , hi s pass io n for life and fl a ir for Latin dance breathe new e nergy int o th e faded Exce ls ior Da nce S tudio. He mee ts Rub y, a detennined dance in structor who is looking for a c han ce to ree nter th e ranks of professional dance wi th a new partner. B efore lo ng , the ama teur is teaching th e professional how to loosen up he r disciplined sty le and fee l th e music.
Featuring: Vanessa L Williams, C hayanne
Director : Randa Haines
FEBRUARY
Why Do Fools Fall in Love
The Avengers
Genre: Adventure/ Drama
Rated: PG - 13
From: Warn er Bros 9 1 minute
Genre: Drama
From: Warner Bro s
Rated : R 11 6 minutes
Three very different women a ll claim to be the w id ow of si nge r/so ng writer Frankie Lymo n and th e heir to hi s esta te. Eac h swears sh e's hi s legitimate w ido w - but in each ea e so mething complicates th e claim. Through th eir storie s th e women come to learn quite a bit abo ut the hu band th ey eac h thou g ht th ey h ad thoroug hl y known
Featuring: Halle Berr y, Vivica A Fox , Lela Rochon , Larenz Tate
Director: Gregory ava
Briti sh agen t John Steed and his partner, Emma Pee l , are back in thi s 90's reinvention of th e cla s ic 60's te levision se rie s. John Steed has been ca ll ed by The Mini stry (Britain 's ultra -top -sec re t age ncy) to inve sti ga te so me very strange go in gs-o n in He r Majes ty's kingdom. Th e weather seems o ut of contro l, foul, deadly - even for England. Someone is ou t to contro l the weather to bring the country - and the world - to its knees. Th at perso n see m to be Sir A ugus t D e Wynter, former Ministry agent, very rich, very odd and e ntire ly too s m art It is up to the unfl appab le duo of Steed and Pee l to save th e fate of th e world in sty le.
Featuring: Ralph F icnn es, U ma Thurman, Sean Co nner y Director: Jeremiah C hechik
Channels 1 and 2
Avis vehicles are available from 13 convenient locations throughout Papua New Guinea. Choose from PNG's largest and most modern fleet. Special discount to Air. Niugini passengers and we are a partner in 39 Frequent Flyer programmes.
ince the days of Jo se ph Conrad, red-blooded visitors have be e n drawn to those bustlin g colonial trading ports once ca lled the Straits Settlements - Penan g, Malacc a, Singapore , exploring by ni g ht as well as day.
Penang wa s established la st century by Captain Light, and soon became a busy crossroads of Empire Funnelling between jungle-clad Sumatra and th e Malayan Penin s ula , the Straits of Malacca s till form a vital if narrow artery for international s hipping. It is not unknown for pirate s to gra pple alongside unsuspecting freighter s after night ha s fallen .
On land , too , strange thin gs happen as day fades quickly into Tropic darkne ss
The Nam Wah Hotel & Bar in Penan g's Lebuh Chulia, Chulia Street , is an oldtime Chinese dos s house, a fine example of the genre. In the courtyard incense bums at a shrine, motorcycle s are pulled up into the lobby under the slee py-eyed gaze of a Chinese clerk in grubby T- s hirt and an Indian doorman re s plendent in striped s hirt and bell-bottom s. In pride of place on the wall behind is di s pl ayed a 1940s sepia photo of an ocean liner.
Down a dimly lit passage awaits the bar, patronised by a motley, sweating crowd. The jukebox blares out discordant Asian pop hits as well as smoother sounds from Prince or the Bee Gees. A pallid, bare-chested Chine se, paunch flopping over his shorts, up-ends a glass of dark, foaming stout, a tipple his compatriots regard as a health tonic. Another, wizened by age and exertion , is engrossed in conversation with a sultry Malay ho stes s Yet another gnarled patron seems quite entranced by the wizardry of electronic lighting.
The bar itself is lit only by a few inadequate multi-coloured fairy lights Behind it , a smooth-chinned youth can offer only Carl sberg , Anchor, Tiger or bottled orange so da. A laminated sign warns patron s in both English and Chine se : Cash Deliveries Please . From the Royal Stout poster taped to the freezer door beckons a come-hither Eurasian temptre ss in a filmy black lowcut dre ss.
At the rickety table s th e body lan g ua ge of the hoste sses betray s much more warmth toward s each other than toward s th e john s, who includ e a couple of pastyfaced Nordic bac kpackers in re g ulation s in g let s, s hort s, wire-rimmed g la sses and pony tai ls. Noi sy, ges ticulatin g Chinese drinker s and a few more re se rved Malay patron s e ndure the stifling he a t , a lleviated by ju s t one whirring , rattle fan.
As o ne door closes, another opens. Night falls and the s hutters c la tte r dow n ; the s hops close b y the streets don't miss a beat as sta ll -ho ld ers wheel their ba rrow s into pl ace . Gaudily-coloured es cendo l , flavoured ice and jelly, is serv d up ; banan a fritters and pungent Malay fish c urri es sizz le over charcoa l braziers. Watc h the boil ed milk ve nd or coo l hi s wares by to ssing the liqu id from one cup to another without sp illin g a drop!
Story and photographs by Philip Game
' Dawn comes up lik e thunder' over Butt erwo rth , beyond the Straits of Malacca
Night market sce n e near Chulia Street, Georgetown
Tri s haw driver s doze and read the Chinese paper s (photo above), each carriage s till bea rin g the enamelled co lo nial lic e nce plate ' Jinrick s h a No. xxx First Class'. One driver calls after us: ' Romeo and Juliet! Out jogg in g?'
The Cath ay Hote l is a 19 10 man s ionsw in g in g half-doo rs , hi g h ce ilin gs, hu ge doubl e beds, thenno s fla s ks of boiled water and ancient black te lephon esdoin g bu s in ess as a hote l for the la st forty years. Th e s ig n be s id e the courtyard
fountain direct s customers for the Cathay Health Club to a modern annex. Simon, th e middl e -aged receptionist , see m s to tak e fright if a foreign g ue s t expresses an innocent curiosity a bout th e Club's facilities. If you do peerthrou g h th a t door at th e e nd of the lobby, the flickering neo n , fidgety patron s and flim s il y cl ad ho ste sses leave little doubt it' s a funny kind of fitness they ' re promotin g he re .
Street scenes in Penan g
I can 't resist telling you about the 20 Leith Street Pub , an o ld favou rite of the Royal Australian Air Fo rce boys from the base a t Butterworth. The bar was decorated ene rgetica ll y with poster prints of M ar il yn Monroe, E lvi s and the Beatles, then a row of anti q ue c locks , severa l radiograms in wood ve neer a nd eve n an imper io us Queen E li zabeth II: Hard Rock Cafe meets Aunt Edna 's Tea Rooms. On m y la st v isit it was a ll boarded up for re nov a ti o n s and the business relocated to a terraced s hop house down the street. Ah , progress .. .
Dow n on the wate 1fro nt at the Anchor Bar of the E & 0 on Farquhar Street, drink s used t o be served in hu s hed somb re panelled booths: two rounds for the pri ce of a room fo r the ni ght back at th e Cathay. Presently being reb uilt from the gro und up , the Ea s tern and Oriental Hote l was estab li shed in I 885 by the Sarkies Brothers. T he e ntrep re ne uri a l Armenian brothers a lso fo und ed R a n goo n 's Strand and Singapo re ' s Raffl es Hotels back when the su n nev er set on the British Emp ire Let's hop e th at when the renovations are comp lete , it w ill be just as pleasant to sip a g in s ling o ut side und er the gent ly waving traveller palms.
For a breath of fresh air, let ' s ride the Swiss-built cable railway to the summit of Penang Hill , rising 821 metre above the torrid streets and lanes of Georgetown. Up here the Bellevue Hotel, another Sarkies venture, offers gin slings served on a lawn looking down over the port and the Straits beyond. The property fee ls like a gent leman ' s country retreat , and its corridors are decorated with mementoes of the architect Buckminster Fuller. ;:)
Further information:
Visitors of many nationalities may enter Malay ia without a visa. English is widely spoken. Money can be exchanged freely and automatic teller machines are ea s ily found in major towns. Climate is hot and humid throughout the year; tropical downpou rs are frequent but short-lived.
(Prefix Penang phone numbers with +60 4 , 04 from Singapore or within Malaysia).
Air Niu g ini flies t o Sin g ap o r e twi ce a we ek.
Frequent regional flights operate from Singapore to Penang. Four trains depart Singapore's Keppel Road Station daily for Kuala Lumpur and the 7.30am Exspres Ra/....')'af continues to Butterworth, arriving I0.35pm. Evening and afternoon express buses depart Singapore's Golden Mile Complex, Beach Road near Lavender MRT station , travelling overnight to Georgetown via the new orth-South Expressway.
Ticket agents include Kway Chow Travel 293 8977, Gunung Raya 294 7711 and Morning Star Travel 292 9009.
Georgetown is a shor1 ferry ride from Butterworth and the ferry tenninal adjoins the train and bus stations.
Intrepid offers small-group adventures, exploring the Ma lay Peninsula between Bangkok and Singapore
Visit www.intrepidtravel.com.au, call 1800 629 186 in Australia or fax Melbourne 9419 4426.
Cathay Hotel. 15 Lebuh Leith, Georgetown, tel 262 6271 offers budget-priced accommodation with character.
At the other end of the scale, the high-rise Berjaya Georgetown Hotel, in the Midland Park shopping centre on Ja lan B urmah (Burmah Road) is reasonably convenient to the Georgetown of o ld and in the present economic climate, substantial discounts may be offered - Tel: 227 7111, Fax: 226 7111.
Above right: Srnlpt11res at Penang's Thai Buddhist temple
Below: Muslim school girl , Penang
N!UGINI LINK MANAGEMENT SERV
ICES LTD.
• Are you liavi11g difficulhj i11 re11ewi11g or obtai11i11g Depart111e11t of Labour Approval to recmit 011-Citize11s?
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WE SPECIALISE IN :
e PASSPORTS e VISAS e WORK PERMITS
e ENTRY PERMITS PROCESSING
e TRAINING & LOCALISATION PROGRAM
Our Experienced Team is committed to providing o Fost ond Profe ssional Ser vic e ol the Mos t Affordable Rate in town
Contact: TAPAS SANA, GEOFFREY MALA or JAMES TAPO
Tel: (675) 325 68 l l Fox/Phone: (675) 325 6826
PO Box 4960, Boroko 01 l l, NCD, PNG Molongon Haus, 1st Floor Suite 3, Tobori Ploce, BOROKO.
Welcome to the Air Niugini inflight shop.
The items displayed on the these two pages are available on all international flights.* We are happy to accept most major currencies, travellers' cheques and leading credit cards for purchases.
Ladies' Fragrances
Red Door
Elizabeth Arden
Eau de toilette spray 50ml
Dune
Christian Dior
Eau de toilette spray 50ml
Opium
Yves Saint Laurent
Eau de toilette Natural Spray 50ml
Anais Anais
Cacharel - Paris
Natmal Spray 50ml
Eau de toilette with a hint of floral fields
Scental Premiere Collection
Presentation box of six leading perfumes
* I ,imikd stock available on some flights
Men's Fragrances
Gifts & Souvenirs
Paco Rabanne After Shave
Kouros Eau de toilette 50ml
A colourful piece of Australian opal on a fine 22ct go ld c ha in
Drakkar Noir
Guy Laroche
Eau de toilette 50 ml spray
Parker Ballpoint Pen w ith Air Niugini logo
Opal Pendant
Pen & Keyring Set A souvenir of Papua New Guinea
Pierre Cardin Earring Caddy
Six pairs of stylish earri ngs for any occasion
IMPORTED
Gifts, Souvenirs & Books
Goroka Coffee 250g
Air Niugini ' s Special Blend of 100 % Arabica
Coffee from Goroka l
Coffee Roa sters Pty Ltd
AlrNiuglnl blend
Silver Plated Teaspoons
Set of three teaspoons
A must f o r collec tors! a NI '
Air Niugini A310 Airbus
Easy to as semble kit with mounting stand
Cigarettes, Cigars & Port
Cigars
Ta baca le ra 5 -pac k C iga rs
Top qu a lity
hand roll e d c igars m ade for Air Niu g ini
Dunhill
Filter Delu xeQuality s ize filte r created by blendin g exceptional quality tob acco
Whi s ky
Chiva s R egal I litre
Mat ured in oa k fo r
12 yea rs by C hi vas
Bro th e rs, Sco tl a nd
Whi s ky
Johnny Walk er Red I litre
Th e na m e be hin d th e m a n be hin d the ba r
Benson & Hedges
Wh en 0 11/y th e bes t w ill d o
Spec ial Filte r, Ex tra Mild & Ultra Mild - 20 & 25
Cognac
Marlell VSOP 7 00 ml
Th e c ho ice of Lo ui s XIV
Gin
Gilbey's London Dry 1.1 25 litre
Ma de to th e sam e
Winfield 25s
Popular red , mild blue & gree n
sec re t fa mil y rec ipe fo r ove r 130 years
IDiscover Paradise
Specially selected highlights from the award-winning Paradise magazine
Port
Penfolds 750ml s 10-year old Po1t
A blend e d tawny po1t with the characteristics of agein g for 10 years
Books
Papua New Guinea souvenir books
Vodka
Finlandia I litre
Th e wo rld 's fi nes t Vodk a
ITh e na ti o na l drink ' 1 of F inl an d
Rum
Bundaberg l.1 2 5 litre
Th e great A ustrali an Ov e rp roof Rum
Responsible Environmental Management Is Our Deepest Concern.
BRAIN POWER
QI. The ages of Pam and Mike now add up to 9 1 Pam is now three times as o ld as Mike was at the time when Pam was twice as o ld as Mike is now. How o ld are Pam and Mike now?
Q2. At what time between I pm a nd 2pm do the minute hand and the hour hand of a clock co in c id e exact ly?
Q3. In a dart s compe titi on each dart scores e ith e r 40, 39, 24, 23, 17 or 16 points. How many dart s mu st be thrown to sco re exact ly I 00 points?
ONE WORD
Find the sa me five-letter word wh ich ca n be added to each of the le tt ers in th e box to make a series of six lette r words.
GOLF LESSON
Find the golf terms in this word pu zz le. Some of th e letters are u se d more than once.
BALL, BIRDIE , BOGEY, BUNKER , CA DDIE , CHIP, CLUB, COURSE, CUP, DIVOT, DOGLEG, DRIVER , EAGLE, FAIRWAY, FLAG , FOLLOW-T HROUGH , FORE, GOLF, GREEN GRIP, HAZARD, HOL E, HOOK , IRON , LEAGUE, LIE, LOFT, MARK , MATCH , PAR , PLAYER, POWER, PUTTER , ROLL , SAND, SCORE , SHOT, SIGN, SLICES , STANCE, STROKE, SWING , TEE , TREE, WEDGE, WOOD
KRAMULOFTC 0 PI RG
LNFRCREYAL PI EE N
I LOKCLUBFI D HI TE
ENLLOEEOOR RCDGT
PLLAEOREAG HWDRO
AOOTBEHZRC EEAAV
RTWHFLAGTT WY C YI
ETTOEHSATO HSAND
SDHGDI MWES TNCPO
RERORGDUI A LGPUC
WEOI EEGRNN 0 I ST 0
LWULVAECI L GSCTU
ELGAEEENFB LAOER
NOHLSTROKE DWRRS
DBUNKEREWO PI EN E
WHERE IS IT?
There are 3 c lu es t o each place. Ca n yo u g uess which city, co untr y or place it is?
I ( i) ln 1985, a large ear thqu a ke destroyed mu c h of this c it y a nd a n est im ated 2,000 people di e d
( ii ) It s Metropolitan Cat hedra l took 250 years to build.
( iii ) With more than 20 million people livin g there, it is the seco nd la rges t population ce ntre in th e world .
2. ( i) The Bridge of Si g h s leads from the D oges' Pa lace over a narrow ca na l to th e o ld prison.
(i i) The first people to li ve in thi s c it y we re refugee s fleeing the Barbarians in th e 5th century
( iii ) Few cars are a ll owed in the c ity ce ntre but it is st ill in g reat danger from pollution
3 ( i) This cap it a l c ity ce lebrated it s 800 th anniversay in 1947
(i i) There a re m ore than 2,500 monuments in th e c it y.
( iii) A vodka and g in ge r beer drink is nan1 ed afte r this c ity
AIRCRAFT
Eac h of th ese e ig ht p ict ures ha s one thing missing. Id e nti fy the part that is mis s ing from eac h one.
The Last Papua Gazette
The end of civil government in Papua
The Go ve rnm e nt of th e A ustra li a n
Te rrit o r y of P a pu a ca m e int o be in g o n I Se pte mbe r 19 0 6 w ith
th e publi ca ti o n of Go ve rnm e nt Gaze tte
No I (pictures be low), w hi c h ad v ise d
th a t th e new Gove rnm e nt had th at d ay
take n ove r th e a r ea fr o m th e
Gove rn me nt of th e Co lo ny of B r iti s h
New G u inea
It s h o ul d be re m e mb e re d th a t t he no rthe rn ha lf of th e m a inl a nd and th e is l a nds we re at thi s t im e th e
Sc hu tzge bi e t D e ut sc h e Ne u G uin ea (Ge rm a n New G uin ea) O ve r t he years th e bu s in ess o f th e Pa pu a n G o ve rnm e nt co ntinu ed to be no tifi e d in th e G azettes, w hi c h 111 co nte n t a nd fo rm a t loo k
re m a r ka bl y s imil ar to o ur prese nt
Na ti o na l Gaze tte.
T he las t P a pu a Gaze tte howeve r was a
s in g le , t yp e d s hee t of pl a in p ape r w hi c h advi se d t ha t th e C iv il G ove rnm e nt had cease d , t e mp o ra ril y, a nd t h at th e
Au s tra li a n Ar m y ' s Ge nera l O ff ice r Co mm a ndin g h ad ass um e d s upre me co ntr o l of th e Te rr ito ry of P ap ua. But th e C ivi l Go ve rnm e nt of P a pu a had cease d fo re ver. Th e Ja pa nese Alm y was in th e process of e nfo rc in g th e a m a lga m at io n of th e two se pa rate Admini stra ti o ns th a t h ad
run P a pu a an d New G uin ea as vu1u all y se p ara te st a tes s in ce A us t ra li a h ad offic ia ll y t ake n co nt ro l of ex-Ge nnan New G uin ea o n 9 M ay 192 1.
PUBLISHED BY AU T HO llI TY. SAT URDAY , 1st SEPTEMBE R, 1906.
T.§RRITORY OP I'J\Plll).
OCJVERIOOmr GAZETTE
K'.nR.A OPJ) In/lRY
I'1IBLi mmD DY .AUTHORITY
8/I TUP.DJ\Y, 14t h FfilJP. U/,RY. _ 1942. No l. Jt o 3
Da norttre nt of' the Govcrnnent :-::cc~t:-:cy cmt'l Na ti v e ,\ :ri'n l rc , Port J!,, rcaby , 14th F.'chrutl:r.r. 1942
l'UTlLIC l:OT.,I,Ql>
•JI I 9 J{ onou r th e AC, m1n1 n t ra tor deu i rc e it no tified, :for p ublic 1ntoroot 1on tha t, rm nma.nt to n t1 c c1c! 1 o n of' the Commo nwo !l l t h Ck:rv en:rn:e nt , C1 '9ll Oov1; rnmc nt in t he Tr.1• r ltory o f l'c.. pu.'l tc mi,o r a ri l.y ceos ed o t n oon on t he :f'o urtcc nth da y o !' Pc bruo.r.,, 1 9 l~, o cco r d in r, t o s t undurd tiJne i n the T~ r r 1tory of' Popu:;t
H 1 o Hcmo ur the Adir. 1n1 e t~1tor c.:c :..i !J. o 1t f'u r t h.c' r n o ti i'icd t h :i t , f'ro m t hat t1.mc, t he Genara l Of!' i c o r CDJiU.l!l Ddin g t110 Cth !.U.11 t u cy Di s t rict noeumc d eupniroo c ontrol o f t he r. oi tl Terr ito ry
TT. : , C:-L~.l !P ION, Oov o rn rnnt Se o1'Cto.ry
Story by John Meehan
T he reaso n fo r t he military take-over i.n
Pa pu a see m s o bv io us e n o ug h in v ie w of th e Ja panese ca pture of a la rge p art of w h a t is n ow P a pu a Ne w G ui nea. No net he less, th e eve nt s lea din g up to th e dec is io n a re wo rth reco untin g bri efl y, as the facts ha ve bee n la rge ly fo rgo tte n and a re us ua ll y ig n o re d , o r o ve rs had o we d b y th e m ili tary s it ua ti o n in th e hi s to ri es of th e pe ri od .
Th e Ja pa nese A rm e d Fo rces stru ck
P earl Har bo ur o n 7 D ece mb e r 19 41 , and so bega n th e ' Pac ific War'. On 13
D ece mb e r th e A u s t ra li a n Ca bin e t dec ided th at a ll E uro pean wo me n a nd
c hildre n we re to be e v ac uate d fr o m
Pa pu a a nd New G uin ea
TER RI TOR
Y
EX TR A ORDI NA R Y
PUBLISHED B Y AUTHOFI~Y.
VOL I. SA TURDAY, l sT SEPTEill3E R, 1906 Ko 1.
Governmei~~e~f~~:;,;, ¥:~:i~~~t~}· Papua, 1st Seplember, 1006. H1\7:~:nfu~f%~\~~ i~:;:~l~~~°: ~/~t:ei~efi;~~~ ti~: PG~!.::i~~~~o~:e:t:?~1~~fC~0~~~~::: wealth of Aus l raha and t he Dependencies t he r eof.
Commonwealll 1of Au slra.lia To Wit. A. MURGRA \'E, Govern ment Secret11ry. ~-P ROCLAMA'l'ION
By E is Excellency the-Right Honourable H enry Stafford, Baron Northcote, Knig ht Grand Cross of t he Most Distinguished Orde r of Saint Mic h ael and Saint George, l\uig Lt Gru.nd Comm11nder of the Most Eminent Order of the l ndiA.n Empire, Compa ni on of the Most Honourabl e Order of thE Bn~h, Go"ernorGeneral a nd Commander -in-Chief in and o er the Cowmonweal th of Australia.
W H}:RE..\S by Letter11 P atent of m s iiajesty the King, bearing dnte t lie eighteenth d11y of Marc h , one thousand ni ne hundred and two, the Possess ion of Britis h New Gninea was placed unde r the autho rity of the Commonwealth , and it was thereby pro,-itled t Uat the Go vernorGeneral shoul d, so soon aa the Parli ament had made lu.ws for the go ,·emment of the Possession, issue a P roclamation sig nify ing and declaring tha t the Parli11.ment hu.s matle lnws for tlie govenunent or t he Possession, and that from and alter the date of such P roclamation (tl1ereiz1j:~~.r~~eerrtto~::dt! 1 i;b£ti:t!dd:iJ~ t~:1 ~~-~i~l1t:e~:1td~n~ei~~t:uct~\~~ 1 ~-hfc1~h;i;l~ 11 l;~~l~r11~! to time have been gi ,·en to 1u1 y Officer admiuii;le ri ug the Go ,·ernment or British Ne w Guirntl \ with respect t o t he execution of any th ings tl mt belong to the said Office of Administn,tor sliou hl cease to ha ve effect, and should be r e voked wi t hout prejudice t o a.nytU ing lnwfu lly done tberemide r ; And whe reas by an Ord er of Hi s ~!ajesty in Council , beo.ring date the siith dny of )In.-c l1, one t housand nine hundred and two, it w!\.9 pro"itled t lui.t the Govemo r-Genernl, so soou as the P arliament had made laws providing fo r the hearing of nppeals from the Courts of th e Possess ion !~ 7a ~~~1!~~~:~:~\;~s::/l:~\~~::;~~1 9 !t~~t;~~i~n~e~i:~no~~e~~lli~lt ~~l~~ciii:i;i:1 1i! se, entcenth d11y of May, one thone11nd eigbt hundred and eighty -eig ht , nm\ t he twenty-foui-th dn.y of No \·ember one t ho usand eigl.it hund red and nh1dy-one, sho uld 1,e re\'Okell, 3.ml sl1ould cease to h rw e effect wi thout preju dice to an yt hing lawfu lly done t hereunder, p1'0, ided that any appeal s fr om any Co urt or the said Possession to t he S upreme Court of Queens.laud, at Dri sbn.ne, under th e provi sions of the said Ortle rs in Council wh ich shou ld be pendh1g nt the date or such Proclam ation, should be h eard and delerminetl by the Su preme Cou rt of Qneeusl.uul. nt lfri sbnne , in t he enme ma.n ner and in all respects as th ouf:'h the sn..iil Ortler11 in Council lmd no~ been r evoked :
Mo st had go ne by the year's e nd , but as late as 19 January 194 2 th e Cabinet dec id ed that civil administration should be maintained 'fo r as lon g as is necessary and possible'. Rabaul was captured on 23 January , and Cabinet dec ided two days later that all able-bodied white male s in Papua and New Guine a be tw ee n the ages of 18 and 45 years should be called up immediately for militar y serv ic e. The Army circulated the call-up notice in Port Moresby on the mornin g of Tue sday 27 January a nd adv i ed all concerned to report for e nrolment betw ee n 2 pm a nd 7pm that sa me da y! Th e callup effectively ended ordinary civilian life in the town , but th e Administrator was s till legalJy respon s ible for the Territory.
Considerable confusion rei gned during the next few days. Th e Administrator asked that men in essential se rvice s, eg, the Bank , be exempted from the call-up but the Army would not relent. On 3 February Port More sby was bomb e d for the first time but Canberra s till dithered , eve n when bombs again fell two day s la ter. The time for dual or divided control between the civil and military authorities was clearly over, as it was no longer po ss ible for normal civilian ac tivitie s to continue.
On 12 February 1942 the Australian Government pa sse d the National Security (Emergency Control) Re g ul a tion s, which lega lly gave th e Senior Military Officer supreme power in any part of Australia (once notified in the Gazette) to do 'o r direct to be done any act or thing which he think s necessary for th e purpose of mee tin g any emergency a.rising out of the war'. In Port Moresby the Administrator, L eo n ard MuITay, and the Se nior Military Officer, Major General Ba s il Morris , had le ngth y meetings Morri s propo sed to en li st the Di strict Officer s and Re s ident Magistrates and to form two administrative unit s (o ne each for Papua and New Guine a) 'to ca1Ty on civil and native administration ' as soon as Murray had left the Territory.
On Saturday, 14 February 1942 , the typewritten Government Gazette E x traordinary announced the end of 36 years of (relatively indep e ndent) Gov e rnment in th e Territory of Papua. The Administrator and the members of the Executive and Le g is lative Councils left the following day, by flying boat , for Australia. General Morri s and his Almy successors from then on had 's upreme control' of the entire area not under • Japanese occupation. The two administrative unit s were soo n amal g amated a nd renamed the 'A ustralian New Guine a Administrative Unit' (AN GAU ). Thi s organisation ran the non military aspects of life in Papua and New Guinea until it finally handed back total control to the new combined Administration of Papua and
TEru!l'l'ORY OF I'APOA. OOVJml'llllml' GAZETTE 11:XTRAORDIJIARY
PIJBLimmD DY AUTJIORITr.
Vol.37
t~TURDAY. 14th FEJJilU/\RY, 1942.
Dennrtrrent of the Govcrnnont !°J ccrctn ry nnl'l Nnti vc A:Cf'o 1ro, Po rt ?!., rc sb~,, 14th 'l<' cbru~ry 1%2
Ptm LI G 1:o;rJQ!!;.
Rlll !{onour the Adminintrator deu11•ce :l t notified, for pnb lic 1nforrMt1on thnt, pnmuant to n ~ccioion of the Conun,,nwonlth Oov e1'l"!roo nt, Ci\111 Oovcrruncnt in the •rr.1•r1 toZ,' of' l'~, nuo. tempor a rily ceo.eed at noon on the f ourteenth day of l:'cbrua ry, 19h2, o ccordinp; to c t u11durd ti me in the •rcrritory of Papun Hio Honour the Adm1n1etmtol' uc o ll'<la 1t ful'the r notified thnt, :from th.ot time, the C'~nor a l Off1nor Conn111ndin a t11o 3 th i.U.litury D1 Htr1ot aoeumcd e upre roo c ontrol o :r the Territory. •
n ·: CHM.!PION, Q.()vcrrumnt Seorctaey.
New Guinea, with the handov e r of Rabaul in June 1946.
Admini s trator Leonard Murray never aga in returned to the belov ed Papua where he had lived since 1909.
John Meehan, for man y years a Publi c Works adviser in PNG , has a keen int e r est in 19 ''' and 20 '" ce ntury Papua New Guin ean histo ry.
o n Bu s in e ss o r Plra s u re
LOCAL GOURMET FOOD
A taste of Franco - Papua New Guinean style By
Celine Pet er
Being married to a Papua New Guinean, especiall y a Sepik , and trying to adjust to loca l cu is in e while at the same time keeping your own, is quite a c ha ll enge. But if you love cooking and roaming around markets , you can alway s cre at e a new blend mixing local produce with a little bit of style. Since French cooking ingredients are not very familiar and are quite expensive in shops in Port Moresby, I've tried my best to invent a new cooking tyle. After some initial frown and grimaces, my family and friends have come to enjoy my Franco-Papua ew Guinean way of cooking. These are s imple recipe for you to try. Bon Appetit!
Heat olive oil in a sa uce pan . Stir fry onion, chilli and gar lic for 5 minutes , then add caps icum a nd fry for 2 minute Add the eggplant and tomatoes , rock salt , pepper, ro emary and a small glass of water. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Yam Hachis Parmentier
I kg yam 400g minced meat
2 onio ns li tre milk
2 tbsp oil 2 tb s p butt er sa lt pepper
Peel yam and boil until soft. Drain and mash yam in a dish. Boil the mrnc and add it with the butter to the mashed yam. Mix well. Season with sal t and pepper. Peel and s lice onions and fry lightly in oi l. When cooked, add minced meat and s immer for 10 minute s
Pour a layer of yam in a grea ed tray then cover with the meat and onion mixture. Top with a layer of the remaining yam.
Bake in the top of the oven until brown. Eat warm.
Meanwhile wash fish fillets. Put them in individual aluminum foil pa rc e ls; s pread a littl e rock sa lt an d pepper and ea! the papillotte well. Bake in oven for 15-20 minutes. The fillet should have given off a little juice. If it is dry, it means it is overcooked. If you cook a whole fi h, a llow approximately 20 minute s per 300gms and check that you can detach the flesh easi ly from th e bone
Serve imm ed iat e ly with cocon ut creamed rice and ratatouille.
Orange Cake by Tante Leone
2 oranges I cu p sugar
2 cups se lf-raisi n g flour
50gms butter l glass of milk
Pre heat oven at l 80"C.
Local Ratatouille and Fish en papillotte
R atatouille
2 onions
I chilli
2 capsicum
Fish
3 cloves of garlic
2 eggplant
2 tomatoes
4 fish fillets, or a whole fish
rock salt pepper
2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp rosemary
Aluminum foil
Pre-heat oven at 200"C.
Prepare vegetable : slice onions & chilli, crush garlic , cut cap icum, eggplant and tomatoe s in small cubes.
Kaukau Gratin
4 medium ize Kaukau ( weet potato)
2 capsicum 3 onions
3 eggs app. hlitre milk
150g grated cheese
sa lt pepper
Pre heat oven at 200"C.
Peel kaukau and cut into thin slices
Slice cap icum and onions. In an oven tray, make layers of kaukau ( ea oned with sa lt and pepper) , then onion, capsicum, kaukau again and so on up to the top Finish with a layer of kaukau. Beat eggs with milk, a lt and pepper. Pour milk mixture over the layer of vegetables. Spread grated cheese on top. Bake in oven for app. 45 minute , until the chee e forms a nice brown crispy gratin on top. Serve with g reen sa lad
Prepare oranges: grate the rind of both oranges. Peel one orange and slice it. Squeeze the juice of the second or~ge. Melt butte r on very low heat. ( It s hou ld not froth or c hange co lour. ) In a bowl, mix s ugar with flour. Add in melted butter and milk. When well mixed, add the orange rind and juice . Sprinkle a thin layer of ugar over a lightly grea ed cake tin. Place orange s li ces on top of the sugar and then add the cake mix. Bake in middle of oven for 45 minut es until go ld e n Let the cake cool down in the tin for 15 minute , then tum the cak.., up ide down on a plate, the orange facing up. Serve when cold.
Banana - Ginger Jam
1kg very ripe bananas 1kg raw sugar l root of young ginger
Peel and ma s h banana s. Cut the ginger into very small pieces. Mix bananas , ginger and ugar in a saucepan Let stand for 30 minutes , then boil on low heat for 45 minute Cool jam completely in the pan. Bottle and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.
Welcome!
Getting Around: At Jac kson 's Airpon , whi c h is 11km from th e ce ntre o f Po n Mores by, th e re a re re nt a l car counte rs, a bank and dut y free s ho ps Maj o r hot e ls hav e a cou1tesy bu s to and from th e airp o n. Tax is ha ve me te rs. Within th e city , PMY s (public mo to r ve hi c les) cos t 50 toea pe r journ e y. E lsew he re, PMV s, tax is and hire cars are availabl e.
Useful Port Moresby Numbers : Air Niu g ini Information 327348 0; Rese rva ti o ns & Co nfom a tion 327 3555 (Domestic) a nd 3273444 (Inte rn a ti o nal ); Po li ce 000 : Ambulance 3256822.
Currency: Pa pu a ew Guin ea's unit of c urre ncy is the Kina w hi c h is di v id e d into 100 to ea. Exc han ge your money at Ja c kso n 's Airp o 1t o r in bank s whi c h are ope n from 8.45am to 3 pm , Mo nd ay to Thursda y and until 4pm o n Friday. Credit card s a re acce pt e d in lea din g hote ls and s hop s.
Customs and Quarantine: Adult s ov e r 18 have a gen e ral
a ll o wa nce of new good s to th e valu e of K 250 and are allowe d duty fr ee :
• 200 c igare tt es o r 50 c igars or 250g ram s of tob acco
• On e litre of a lco ho l
• A reaso na bl e a mo unt of pe 1fum e Dru gs , po rn ographi c lite rature o r vid e o tape s, firearms and wea po ns are prohibite d. Food ite m s, see d s , s pic es, live or dry pl a nt s, a nim a ls, a nim a l pro ducts and biolo g ic al s pecimen s s uch as c ultures a nd blood nee d s pec ia l impo1t approval.
Lang uages: Alth o ug h o ve r 800 lan g ua ges a re spoken in Papua New Guin ea, Eng li s h is th e la ng uage of education and co mm e rce . To k Pi s in is wid e ly s po ke n a nd Hiri Motu is co mm o n in Pa pua
Time: Pa pu a ew Guin e a is 10 hours ah ea d of GMT, in the sam e tim e zo ne as Eas te rn Au stralia. Th e re is no dayli g ht saving
Communication: ISD , STD a nd fa cs imil e se rvic es are available in mos t areas La rge town s ha ve public te le phone s Phone cards can be used in som e . Many rural a reas have radio phones.
Driving: Driv e rs ' li ce nc es iss ue d in oth e r co untri es are valid for 3 mo nth s aft e r arrival . Ve hicl es trav e l o n th e left s ide of th e road; s pee d limit s a re 60kph in built-up a re as and 80kph out of town.
Electricity: Electricity supply is 240 vo lts AC 50 Hz. Some hotels have 110 volt outlets for shavers and hair dryers.
Health: Water quality is w ithin WHO standards in most towns. Bottl e d water is available. In rural areas it is advisable to boil water. As malaria contin ues to be a health ri sk in the country, anti-malaria ta blets should be taken two week s before arrival , during your stay and for 4 weeks after departure. Use insect repellent and wear lon g-s leeved shins, trousers and shoes in the evening. Dentists , doc tors and hospitals are in a ll major centres . Rural areas have health centres and aid posts staffed by trained health workers.
Dress: For mo st occasions , dress is info1mal . Thongs and shorts are not allowed in some bars and restaurants. Lightweight clothin g is suitable for coastal areas but a sweater or jacket will be need e d in the highlands.
Restaurants: We stern cuisine is avai lable in hotels, restaurants, g ue st houses and lodges. Po1t Moresby has several Asian re staurants Some hotels especially in the provinces serve local food such as roast pork , chicken or fish with sweet potato, taro, yarn , pumpkin , banana and greens cooked in coconut milk.
Tips: Tips are neither expected nor encouraged.
Shopping: Large sto res and artifact shops offer a variety of goods for sale. Saturday is a half day for most shops and nearly ail are clo sed on Sunday. Artisans sell their craft beside the roads or in markets. All markets sell a wide range of fr uits and vegetables.
Cultural Events: Celebrations of traditional c ulture include: June Port Moresby Show
August Mt Ha ge n Show
September Hiri Moale F estival Port Moresb y; Goroka Show October Maborasa Festi val Madan g ; Morobe Show
Export Rules: Many artifacts , historical and c ultural objects are prohibited exports. Others require a pe,mit from the National Museum . Export permits for wi ldlife and animal products are issued by the Nature Conservation Divison of the Department of Env ironm ent and Conservation .
Tourism Promotion Aut horit y, PO Box 1291, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Phone: 320 0211 Fax: 320 0223 Email: tourismpng@dg.com.pg
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