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Saturday, January 17, 2015 • Page 1B
Nundini Chef’s Table
Eating Around the World Betsy Denson For The Leader
Giampaolo Nundini and Chef Roberto Cresciani enjoy a laugh before the lunch crowd arrives.
Reinvention Italian Style
Betsy Denson betsy@theleadernews.com There is a cinematic sweep to the story of restaurateur Giampaolo Nundini. A native of Livorno in Tuscany, Italy, Nundini was almost five years old when his father, a tailor, died. When Nundini’s mother could not care for him, he went to live in an orphanage. He said that the first choice they gave him on the morning he woke up there was this: he could go to the library, church or the kitchen. Three guesses which one he picked. “In my little mind, I thought at least I’ll be able to get something to eat,â€? he said. Nundini worked with nine different cooks at the orphanage over the 14 years he was there. Ample training for his future. As is his ability to speak French, Italian, Spanish and English. In 1960, he opened his first restaurant in Italy – La Bettola (The Cave). Eighteen years later he decided to try his luck in America and moved to Houston in 1978. First he opened Très French Italian Cuisine on Yoakum Boulevard in Montrose and then CafĂŠ Bianco at Post Oak and San Felipe. Later, he ran restaurants in Louisville, KY and Chicago. But Chicago was cold and after the birth of his son Christopher in 1986, Nundini returned to Houston. He joined Antone’s Imports, learning about importing and food distribution. As director of sales there for a time, he helped get Antone’s products and sandwiches in grocery stores. In 1995, he branched out on his own and opened Nundini, a food importing business. The original location was on Allen Parkway until 2001 when Tropical Storm Allison swept into town. Because his products were stored underground to keep them fresh, he lost all his inventory - $850,000 worth. Even then he was determined not to be beaten.
“People thought I was crazy,� from Italy that will allow the he said. “For three days I was front of the shop to become a trying to clean the place with pasta bar that can serve 100 bleach.� people an hour. It was not to be, however, The pasta will be fresh froand next, Nundini took up shop zen, then cooked to order. A in his current location at 500 variety of sauces will also be North Shepherd Drive, which available. also had some storm damage, “It’s going to be gourmet, but not nearly as extensive. but very accessible,� Nundini It was on Shepherd that he said. utilized his nearly two acres of If it catches on, the device warehouse space to grow his is portable and can be taken to business, becoming one of the the Houston Livestock Show & biggest importers and sellers Rodeo or sports venues as an of foreign food in Texas. Son alternative to current food ofChristopher ran the Gelato Fac- ferings. tory which supplied the majorAnd as for their current ity of the state’s Gelato needs menu? Nundini is proud of and there was a small store up what he serves. He says that front where people come to get their pasta, cooked to order, a taste of Italy. may take a little longer but Once again, necessity re- that makes it less starchy, less quired reinvention. Competi- mushy and better tasting. tors cut into his business over “People need to try the real time and by 2011, Nundini felt thing,� he said. he could no longer fairly comOf their pizza, he said it’s pete. That’s when he decided also easier to digest because to open a restaurant again. He they allow a natural fermentaopened his warehouse bistro tion of the dough over a four to and isn’t looking back. five day period. Nundini claims “It was the only way to sur- you can eat an entire pizza vive,� he said. without that bloated feeling. Now, 90% of his business Their wines – Italian, of course, is the restaurant and the other are organized by the region of 10% comes from supplying ge- Italy they come from. lato and the wholesale business. The future may be uncertain In equipping his restaurant to but Nundini is always ready for succeed, Nundini already had his next reinvention. The propthe supplies, he just needed erty he purchased for less than good chefs. The current head $1 million has appreciated in of kitchen is Italian Roberto value. He says he’s been offered Cresciani, who has 37 years of as much as $4 million for it. But experience and came here on a if he does ever sell, he has his O-1 Visa given to those “who caveat ready – the restaurant in possesses extraordinary ability whatever development takes in the sciences, arts, education, place will be his. business, or athletics,� according to the U.S. government. Cresciani went to the only school of its kind in Italy to learn out to make salami – and that’s from the pig on forward, mind you. He’s also bringing other innovations as well. Nundini plans to soon im- Italian goods are still available for sale at port a pasta cooker Nundini in the front of the restuarant.
It’s no secret that Houston is one of the most diverse cities in America – which makes it one of the best places to travel around the world, if only through your stomach. The Leader asked readers what their favorite restaurants were to get international or ethnic food nearby. Look for a more complete list (as well as listings for Cuban and Mediterranean) on the online version. MEXICAN Dian Austin nominates the Taqueria Don Tin #3 just south of the Fiesta grocery store lot on N. Shepherd (601699 W 23rd St.) She said that it has the best pollo tacos on the planet, with corn tortillas, cilantro and onions, and comes with gratis frijoles charros. For Mischelle Menchaca the best Mexican food is at Teotihuacan Mexican CafĂŠ, 1511 Airline Blvd. She recommends the Chicken Fajitas. El Gallo de Jalisco at 3220 White Oak Dr. is the spot for Patricia Kilgore. “The chicken mole is the best, besides mom’s,â€? she said. Kilgore also notes that the small place only takes cash. ASIAN Multiple people mentioned The Vietnam restaurant, 605 West 19th St. Hans von Meier said that Danny’s Vietnamese beef will make you want to keep coming back for more. “Be daring and ask for extra garlic,â€? he said. Sarah Morrissey and Mary Lamb are big fans of the Asian Market, 1010 West Cavalcade St. Morrissey says it has the best Thai food in town. Scott Lewis recommends the rice vermicelli bowls at
Thu-Thu Restaurant, 5015 Antoine Dr. “My favorite is with grilled chicken and Vietnamese egg rolls thrown in.� L i n d a Eschenfelder thinks that the best Chinese in our area is at Eastern ChiCavatore Italian Restaurant nese RestauContributed photo rant, 2100 West Ella Blvd. 34th St. She loves their garlic The Spaghetti Western chicken. (two Leader locations at 1608 ITALIAN Shepherd Dr. and 1951 W TC Jan Garver and Dian Aus- Jester Blvd.) gets the nod for tin like BYOB Capellini Ital- their twist on traditions, like ian Cuisine, 1504 Airline Dr., the Italian Nachos. Austin says her favorites are DRIVE A LITTLE FOR: bruschetta, pollo Romano (or Polish food at Polonia, 1780 any of their chicken dishes) Blalock Rd. Lois Pereira said and their ravioli with spicy that everything is delicious. sausage. Emily Zihlman said to get Shawn Bonsen likes the yourself to Suya Hut-A Taste Ceasar Salad, risotto balls, and of Africa, 11611 West Airport Eggplant Parmesan at Cava- Blvd. “Their Suya (a spicy tore Italian Restaurant, 2120 shish kebab) is the bomb.�
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The Great Outdoors
Leader Nibbles Will the Liberty Kitchen group move into Garden Oaks? There are no additional details at the present time but Miguel Facundo confirmed this week the word that’s been circulating on the Oak Forest Homeowners Association Facebook page and elsewhere – that the Liberty Kitchen group signed a five year lease last week (with an option to go longer) on his Garden Oaks property on Alba across from the American Legion. Previously Facundo was going to operate his own restaurant there, but said he wanted to focus on his home construction business after Facundo CafĂŠ closed at Dr Gleem Car Wash. Facundo said he got interest from more than a few restauranteurs regarding the space but that he was looking for a really good restaurant and thinks that the F.E.E.D. TX restaurant group will help the neighborhood “continue to go in the right direction.â€? He said that the coastal craftsman look he was going for with the design is right in line with Liberty’s vibe. F.E.E.D. and
their spokesperson declined to verify at the present time. It took two years of the permitting process for Facundo to complete the building. He said that he is building out the interior and doing some landscaping too, but that he hopes to have his part of the project done by April. F.E.E.D. will handle the kitchen build out. Oaks Dads Club hosts cook off to benefit youth sports Baseball, softball and soccer aren’t the only thing Oaks Dads Club does well. Next weekend, on Jan. 23 and Jan. 24 you can taste a few cook off creations at this year’s Oaks Dads Club Cook Off starting at 7 p.m. on Friday (until the party stops!) and continue on to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. There will be five cook off categories: Brisket, Beans, Chicken, Chili, Ribs and two special categories with a Chef’s Choice and Kids Division. Entry fees are $40 per division or $120 to enter all divisions with a special request of a four whole
chicken donation for hungry ODC cook off attendants. Contestants provide their own meat and ODC will provide each team with five admission wristbands. There will be trophies and cash prizes for top three winners in each division! Sean Jez, President of Oaks Dads Club, and his cook team, Bald Beaver BBQ, have participated in the ODC cook off for the last four years. And this year, Jez and his team have their eye on the prize. “Over the years we have placed first in Ribs, Chicken and Beans and third in Chili,� Jez said. “One bite and you’ll love it! Our team will be cooking at ODC rain or shine, freezing weather or not. If you want to meet Chita Johnson from KHOU11, you should stop by our cook team on Friday night because she likes our cooking the most! He’s kidding. Sort of. Have a tip for Nibbles? Email christina@theleadernews.com
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